Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

[booargy]

where to put the earth connection I assume running the earth back into the control box is the way to go.

Connect the pump earth to the main incoming earth. Connect any exposed metal to the main incoming earth.

 

[pat_00]

Thanks for the advice, that's what I'll do with the earthing.

As far as the malt pipe goes i am designing it in a way that will enable me to extend it at a later date.

Some progress pics: A butchered keg and my malt pipe's bottom filter. It's from Ibrew and fits the base of the 19l BigW pot perfectly.

 

[lael]

I've been working on upgrading my malt pipe - adding in a second one that is larger. I'm using a 33cmD x 35cmH pot, which from my calcs should allow roughly 10kg of grain (2.8 fluidisation). A couple of questions:
1 - It looks like I didn't do the best job of spacing my heater element holes and i'm struggling to shape the heater so that it is evenly spaced around the larger malt pipe. It's close in spots and touches the malt pipe in a couple of spots. Any thoughts on if / how much of an issue this is likely to be?
2 - The malt pipe tapers only a little, and I left about 2mm or so spacing around the top filter plate - which leaves space for the stainless mesh. But... the plate slides down into the pot easily (the taper on the BigW pot is steeper and I cut it more closely) Does anyone else have this issue? Does the mash hold the plate up, does it move around during pump breaks? Anyone know how the braumeister handles it?

Thinking about putting in some bolts if required.

Cheers!

 

[Sam England]

Can't help you with point 2 as my top plate sits on bolts, but I reckon you'll be fine with the element issue as it's only point contact and there will still be plenty of wort to pull the heat away. I also assume your element is close to the bottom of the pot which will mean the majority of the mash will be pushed up away from this point during use anyway so you would only be heating wort on the inside anyway.
Cheers,
BB

 

[MastersBrewery]

Point 2 you could use a nut on the centre rod (if its all thread) to maintain minimum top plate height

 

[djar007]

I find once my plate is set at the start the grain bed forms into the right shape Lael. So even when there is pump rests it pushes back up nice and evenly. I will go with a crossbar to make sure it stay even as I feel this is important to have it exactly level. I am really seeing a much clearer result from batches where I had a good even but slow flow through during the mash. I guess due to less channeling and compaction of the grain bed and better distribution of heat. I attribute that to a good even and flat plate on top and the mesh screen below that. A sirclip would be a good way for you to hold up the plate with the tapering allowing it to slide down so freely.

 

[lael]

I find once my plate is set at the start the grain bed forms into the right shape Lael. So even when there is pump rests it pushes back up nice and evenly. I will go with a crossbar to make sure it stay even as I feel this is important to have it exactly level. I am really seeing a much clearer result from batches where I had a good even but slow flow through during the mash. I guess due to less channeling and compaction of the grain bed and better distribution of heat. I attribute that to a good even and flat plate on top and the mesh screen below that. A sirclip would be a good way for you to hold up the plate with the tapering allowing it to slide down so freely.

so - does your top plate move up and down when the pump turns on and off?

I've got crossbars to stop the plates flexing - though the new one is 2mm thick

What is a sirclip?

 

[djar007]

Mine does move up and down. About 100 mm.

Sorry a circlip.

As in a groove cut into the shaft and a circlip attached that would hold the plate up.
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=circlip&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=Oz1AUsLiA4HZigfH5YC4Bw&ved=0CFUQsAQ&biw=1536&bih=773&dpr=1

 

[lael]

ah cool - mine is all thread - the nut idea might be a goer... oh - wait - just realised that will be a pain when removing the malt pipe. Does grain escape at all? What size/ clearance is around your center shaft

 

[djar007]

Centre shaft has is tight fitting and i have a stainless washer between the mesh screen and the plate to make sure it seals. Come to think of it a silicon seal would work well. I dont have any grain escaping. I did when my plate came up on an angle. But hopefully those days are finished.The brew I did on Sunday was m best ever and I did it on manual to keep cycling the pump to see if I could flush the grains back and forth a little better. Doing so took the load off the pump through the early rests and when I got up to the alpha rest my wort was amazingly clear and the pump wasnt struggling at all.

 

[matho]

So after 2 years the original controller is getting the boot and the brauduino is being put in its place. The reason was a couple of connectors were becoming dicky causing the display to flicker, also I want to play with the brauduino. I feel kind of sad to see it go.



the brauduino is being mounted differently to the was it was intended but that is to fit my original box, I'm glad I kept the space for the resistor where J1 is, it allows me to run the optocoupler of the original braumiser.

cheers steve

 

[Edak]

Did you upsize at the same time Steve?

 

[matho]

nope, I love the size, just right for me . I did pull all the fittings apart and gave them a good clean, they were not too dirty considering its been over a year since I did it last.

 

[Edak]

As long as you are giving them a good clean with the percarb then you will find that they should be nice and clean. It's just the element that needs a second wipe after percarb for me. I took my pump apart and it was shiny and clean like new, this was after about 15-20 brews. I only have to replace small lengths of silicone hose (I have barbed pump) every 6-9 months. Valves also look very clean, I give them all a few open-closes with percarb in them after every brew.

 

[Edak]

I am hoping to do another brew on Sunday, anyone still building their rig in the area is welcome to join.

 

[real_beer]

Has anybody here successfully cut down, resized, and glued a Braumeister malt pipe seal back together, and can you remember the name of the product used?

Cheers

 

[djar007]

Loctite would work fine mate. Think it's 505. But always get my Loctite and my Peugeots confused.

 

[real_beer]

Loctite would work fine mate. Think it's 505. But always get my Loctite and my Peugeots confused.

Thanks :beer:

 

[djar007]

Just checked and it isn't 505. The Loctite epoxy resin will work. Good for rubbers and plastics.

 

[real_beer]

I found this but the price isn't good: http://www.smooth-on.com/Epoxy,-Silicone-an/c11_1189/index.html?catdepth=1