Bavarian Wheat Beer #5 Help

[cliffyj]

Hi Guys,
i am New to brewing, so first post is a question.
I am Going to make this in the next couple of days,
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...&recipe=815
( Got a 50ltr keg to convert into a boiling pot first )
As i could do a full 23ltr boil for this , instead of the 15ltr that Les says, do i add both DME at the start time or add the light DME 5mins from end of boil as in recipe.
This is my first brew , so i need all the help i can get.
Also, i have been looking at the BIAB brewing, for my next brew, as i have the pot for doing this.
Cheers Clifford

 

[zabond]

welcome to AHB Clifford you could do a 23ltr boil but the extra heating time plus cooling 23 ltrs from boiling to ferm temp would take ages the smaller the boil vol the less time for brewing=more time for drinking,add second malt addition 5 min before end of boil

 

[cliffyj]

Thanks Zabond, will go with smaller boil and get this one under my belt.
I will make a wort chiller for the next brew (BIAB), probably http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=12016 .

 

[cliffyj]

This recipe calls for 500ml of wyeast 3068.
Does this mean i just make a yeast starter with my smack pack, using 5ooml of wort?.

 

[chappo1970]

This recipe calls for 500ml of wyeast 3068.
Does this mean i just make a yeast starter with my smack pack, using 5ooml of wort?.

Cliff a single smack pack will be more than sufficent to innoculate a 23lt batch. 100 billion yeasties is a guarantee depending on the frshiness of the pack that is. There is no need to build a starter with these just smack let the pack expand and then pitch. Simple. Oh and aerorate to wort well to promote good healty yeasties.

I have 2 packs at the ready now for a double wheatie I am hoping to brew this afternoon.

Cheers and Goodluck

Chappo

 

[cliffyj]

Thanks for that Chappo.
Double wheatie sounds interesting.
are you using wyeast 3068?, and is your brew, AG .

 

[manticle]

If this is your first I'd keep it simple and just follow the recipe. It will still enable you to develop an understanding of the boil process.

 

[cliffyj]

It is my first brew, smacked the yeast 4 hours ago , but its not swelling.
Its fresh enough , so should be no probs.
Want to get this one out of the way , as i want to do a BIAB,I gots a 50ltr beer keg, which i cut the top off and left the handles on ,as a brew pot, not sure what brew i'll do, thinking about an APA.

 

[cliffyj]

The smack pack did swell the next day, so i went for a starter, just to be sure,also i thought i might aswell learn something else.
Well this didn't go to plan.
I did abit too much reading, on the net about starters and came across this ......30 degree celsius rule on the jamil show where you pitch your yeast at around 16 or 17* celsius and let it ferment at 13 or 14* degrees celsius higher so that would be pitching at around 54* f and fermenting at around 62.

I think this applys to the wyeast 3068 only?
when i made the starter i think i put in a place that was too cold and it didn,t do anything, or was i expecting the starter just to kick off right away? so 2 hours later i move it somewhere warmer and had a look at it this morning and though its not bubbling it does have a creamy head on it, so is this starting to take off?
Oh a song appropriate for the wyeast liquid pack.... The Prodigy,s 'Smack my bitch up'

 

[manticle]

Creamy head is the beginnings of fermentation. You have viable yeast and the cell count will be higher than it was in the pack.

 

[cliffyj]

Manticle, will 24 hours or so be all right for starter, before adding to wort.
Would like to get this down tomorrow.

 

[manticle]

The proper way of making a starter is to let it ferment right out, pour off the liquid at the top and build from there (by repetition) until the right amount of cells have been produced.

I myself will pitch as long as I know the yeast is viable and has been built a little so if it were me, your starter would be fine unless you're making a 1090 wort. I don't even pour off the top but I maintain my temperature to fermenting temperature (starters can be built at higher temps if the liquid/beer is discarded)

I recommend reading up on how starters are properly done for future reference but I wouldn't worry about it for this one. Your yeast sounds like it will fire up no dramas. The main thing with starters (because the conditions are deliberately in favour of micro-organism growth) is to maintain cleanliness and sanitation. Use boiled cooled water, cover the yeast while it grows, sanitise anything that comes in contact etc etc.

In a nutshell - yes 24 hours will be okey dokey.

 

[cliffyj]

Thanks for the help.
I know its not rocket science, its just doing a few brews and get the know-how.
As i have said , i want to do a BIAB brew next,maybe this one . NRB's All Amarillo APA

 

[Weizguy]

Why is everyone assuming that clifford is using an activator rather than a propagator pack?

Ignore the rule of 30 for yeast starters, it's only for making the actual beer.

Actually better to pitch colder and ferment at 17C. I thank Jamil for that ferment temp. It works for me.
Pitching slightly cooler helps the yeasts work ethic.

Actually, for your first batch, do what you want, or you won't learn as much. Then make the same beer with the instructions and notice any difference.

Are you in a cold part of the world? Can you fill in your location. We are all stickybeaks here.

Les the stickybeak Weizguy.

 

[cliffyj]

Les thanks for the reply.
Thats why the starter was slow , i did think the 30 rule applied to the starter, then i thought better move starter to warmer place Now sitting at 21c.
I am in N.Ireland.
I was planning to leave beer to ferment in a room with no heat, the room at the min is sitting at 16c, which is a bit cold, was hoping for 18c - 20c, so would putting a sleeping bag round fermenting bin do the trick, or better in a cupboard with a light bulb on?

 

[Weizguy]

a sleeping bag might be enough to contain the extra heat generated by fermentation, and should put your brew in the right temp range.

I would do that, and let us know how the beer turns out.

Beerz
Les

 

[manticle]

Why is everyone assuming that clifford is using an activator rather than a propagator pack?

I guess because the activators seem to be most commonly used.
Fair point.

 

[Weizguy]

I guess because the activators seem to be most commonly used.
Fair point.

Well, there ya go. Maybe the Activator is the most commonly used in Aust, but as pointed out, clifford is not in this country.

It never pays to assume, even though the questions are not always apparent.

Thanks for helping out. A few things I would not have thought of, there.

This recipe is a very good beginner brew for extract brewing, IMHO...but only if you like wheat beer.

 

[cliffyj]

Guy's, maybe i should have said i was using a propagator pack?
Anyway starter going well, brewing in the morning.
Will probably be asking more questions, but thats what you guys are here for,(been there , done it and had problems, on the way.)
Thanks for the help.
Clifford

 

[Screwtop]

Lot of people confuse making a starter with growing a yeast culture. Making a starter is about getting the yeast going and pitching at high krausen (wort and all). Growing yeast up for a starter is where you start with a Propagator Pack, small split or slant in a small amount of wort, this is all about gaining the required number of cells to pitch to your wort. Each time the wort is fermented out, often the yeast is dropped out by chilling, then only the yeast slurry is pitched to fresh wort for the next step.

When an Activator smack pack is pitched to 2L of wort very little cell growth will occur, the yeast will get straight into fermentation and should be pitched at high activity, thats a starter, an active pitch of fermenting wort.

Actually, for your first batch, do what you want, or you won't learn as much. Then make the same beer with the instructions and notice any difference.

Sage advice from Les!

Cheers,

Screwy