- how much was that over the side element and where from? I take it you run that off different circuit to the urn
The over the side element is a Grimwood 4108B 2400w 240volt. I picked it up at a local electrical wholesaler called Davis & Spence for $99. I was planning on running it on a separate circuit but as luck would have it I have a outdoor double power point right behind the table I'm using and while testing my urn plugged both the urn in and the element without tripping the circuit breaker. Worked perfect the first brew but last night tripped while boiling the kettle in the kitchen for the sparge water. I guess he kettle is on the same circuit. Reset and kettle off no probs. As you can see it gets the boil really motoring along.
- as mentioned in the other thread would your SS man be willing to make me / others a false bottom as well - I'll supply postpack?
Replied in other thread.
- what diameter silicone hose and how did you get it onto the tap (brute force I presume :lol: )
- post picture of your biceps
Standard 1/2inch heavy duty silicone from Ross. Was a bit of a struggle to get on the first time but even harder to get off. Had to put a cut in it and prise it off with a screwdriver. The second time (now with a cut) went on easier also with a bit of keg lube to try and stop it sticking. Had trouble initially getting it to stay on as the lube was making it slide off. Finally got it to stay but still had trouble getting it off, not as much as the first, but still more than I'd like. I am planning a weldess bulkhead and 3 piece ball valve in the future, so hopefully it will fix the problem.
PM's my biceps pic :unsure:
Edit, yes going on the level of the wort on boiling I'd say you definitely were a bit too high - I'd try initial volume of 33 L for an eventual "normal" 23L into the fermenter and a typical grain bill of around 5k and mark that on your site tube for future ref. You can always adjust with boiling water if needed later on, or put in an extra litre at the beginning if you are doing a bigger grain bill, which is better than too much water initially and then wasting wort at the end of the process (with probably a weaker beer to boot). Pretty soon after a few brews you'll be able to just eye the level and say "yup that's right".
Wasn't sure exactly how much water so I picked a happy medium between your guide and my old 3V volumes. Changed it down for the next one and the volume/trub was a little more where I'd like it. Can't mark my site tube as decided it wouldn't be a great use eventually and would just turn out to be a pain in the arse to clean, so I siliconed it up.
While I have you Bribie, if I could trouble you for a bit of advice.
I'm using, I think, the same hop bag as you (the one from Ross), and I'm not to sure my old 3V hop measurements are still any good. After being used to just chucking the hops straight into the wort doing 3V, the bag seems VERY restrictive and the aroma that used to come off the 3V wort was far greater than the BIAB with the bagged hops. You know how you pick the bag up and the water drains very slowly, so the water wouldn't be freely getting all the flavours and aromas. I'm thinking the hop flavour and aroma isn't going be as intense???
What are some of your experiences with this???
I'm thinking of going either one of two ways, with the second being the more likely.
1) Up my amount of hops to compensate
2) Make up a pickup to fit in the original tap to suit my Beerbelly hopscreen (was going to do anyway when I got my weldless bulkhead) and just chuck the hops in as per my old 3V way and let the screen take care of them
I just think hopping with the same quantities as my old method will leave my beers under bittered,flavoured and less aroma????
I No Chill and hop to around 19IBU (Beersmith) with a 40 minute addition with a 5 min addition of a couple of IBU (Beersmith) and them throw the aroma hops in the wort 5 mins before draining to the cube. It has worked fine so far and suits my taste.
Any ideas???
