BIABBB?Would you like to borrow a pair of my undies BD? You could use them as a strainer of sorts.. :icon_vomit:
Cheers
Paul
BIABBB?Would you like to borrow a pair of my undies BD? You could use them as a strainer of sorts.. :icon_vomit:
Cheers
Paul
I was contemplating getting my plumbers crack waxed for the occasion.
Yep - you're onto it Brad, actually systems will differ with there water/grain ratios (one of the main differences) during mashing and also boil volume, sparge water etc...Dave I don't understand the water? Mash in with 11.5L and mash out with 6.5L gives 18L pre-boil? Has it left out the sparge water? I dont use beersmith.
Cheers
20L was originally selected so as not to push the Ghetto system and because 19L fits in a keg (allow for 1L loss to ferm trub).Also I don't understand the 20L batch, boil size 25.25L - If you are referring to boil off, I wouldn't have a clue what my boil off rate is - I just judge by the line on the sight tube
If we are filling a Ross Cube then that's 21L, which is a good size to fill a corny after slurry loss in the fermenter. 20L would leave headspace in the cube.
Allowing a couple of litres at least of trub loss in the kettle that brings me to 23L after the boil, with 21 of that into the cube and 2L left in the fermenter.
So to get a 1052 wort, according to BrewMate I'll need at least 4.6 of MO plus 0.46 of crystal, with the hops (kettle) increased at the ratio of hops/20 * 23
Apart from that, looks good - I'll send you a brewsheet.
I thought the same thing Bribie, regarding brew size. Perhaps its a scandal to accomodate the 20L braumeister hmmmmmmmmmm. But I guess if we all start with the same weight of grain, same milling of grain, same water temp, same water profile, then the results should indicate which system gave the best mash efficiency as well. But it will also indicate if better mash efficiency may attribute to grain astringiency through over sparging etc etc.Also I don't understand the 20L batch, boil size 25.25L - If you are referring to boil off, I wouldn't have a clue what my boil off rate is - I just judge by the line on the sight tube
If we are filling a Ross Cube then that's 21L, which is a good size to fill a corny after slurry loss in the fermenter. 20L would leave headspace in the cube.
Allowing a couple of litres at least of trub loss in the kettle that brings me to 23L after the boil, with 21 of that into the cube and 2L left in the fermenter.
So to get a 1052 wort, according to BrewMate I'll need at least 4.6 of MO plus 0.46 of crystal, with the hops (kettle) increased at the ratio of hops/20 * 23
Apart from that, looks good - I'll send you a brewsheet.
I hear what you say, Brad, but for a 20L total length that's probably only going to yield 17-18L into the cube with loss to trub. However considering that it's probably going into the lagering room and get pitched ASAP I can't see that cube headspace is going to be a problem. However to get a corny you are going to need at least 19 into the cube, thus 18 into the corny and that's why I mention 22 or 23 litres based on experience of brewing those quantities. 20L including trub ain't gonna cut it IMHO.
I thought the same thing Bribie, regarding brew size. Perhaps its a scandal to accomodate the 20L braumeister hmmmmmmmmmm. But I guess if we all start with the same weight of grain, same milling of grain, same water temp, same water profile, then the results should indicate which system gave the best mash efficiency as well. But it will also indicate if better mash efficiency may attribute to grain astringiency through over sparging etc etc.
I will be out of my comfort zone as my rig usually pushes out triple batches and aiming for a single batch in a 100L kettle is a bit harder to judge volumes when I have a mental note of what it should look like normally. I have done a couple of single batches in the last couple of weeks to try and get volume measurements for stages. My main concern is boil off % but I will aim to just fill a cube, if I have to top up that will be better than having too much.
IMO we all need to start with the same recipe amounts and have same volume at the end to give a proper indication of "system results" . So I think we aim to fill a cube to an equal mark each, that way we all have consistency in volume compared to ingredients.
Cheers
Edit= writing while PB posted
Dang, we could have cobbled together a single batch rig easily. Should have talked about it earlier, still controlling the MT temp should be ok and boil off volumes can be sorted with a simple measuring stick and extra water. Do-able Brad, or you could use a smaller kettle?
Yep - I was getting confused too. I also do not count kettle trub when I'm describing my output volume.Aaah now I see what you mean. I general don't count trub, so a 20L batch is 20L into the cube.
Cheers
Reckon you blokes will be alright.... 2 X State Champions brewing together.... Ghetto..we haven't got a chance.Jeebers, you guys are thinking too hard, we all get the same amounts of ingrediants and we all brew with it. The beauty about the ghetto system is I've got NFI how it's going to turn out, hence, will see what happens on the day.
cheers
Browndog
will use my experience, wit and cunning to produce a beer to the required specs.
Enter your email address to join: