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Atempting A High Og Ag Iipa In Biab

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Fish13

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I am doing an IIPA as i need to use all of my old columbus stock before i get some new CTZ in.

I am only doing 15 litre batches as this is managable for me and makes life easy as its only 20 bottles....

the og is 1.078 and with my 20L stock pot puts me right on the upper limit of usability....

I was thinking as i have a 15L pot too. was to do a split mash in both pots. sparge and start boiling adn then add them together. that weigh my volume is okay and i may make og...

THis is the grain bill

4.834 kg Pale Ale Malt (91%)
0.159 kg Carapils (Dextrine) (3%)
0.159 kg Crystal 90 (3%)
0.159 kg Wheat Malt, Dark (3%)

total grain of 5.32kg

I do have access to another 20L pot and i could do it that way and then use the 15 pot for sparging.... I could also reduce the grain to water ratio to 2.5L and save 2,5L and that would give me more boil room. almost 7L for sparging and then i just do the bribe g sparginator trick..


i have loaded the brew screens so it gives me an idea of what to do.

Or i make some sort of 3v bastard and go from there.

25l.jpg


3l.jpg
 

esssee

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You might find that you get reduced efficiency with that ratio.

I have generally got 75% efficiency mashing 4.5kg of grain in 13 litres.

I have generally got 65% efficiency mashing 5.5kg of grain in 13 litres.

I also found that 5.5kg of grain and 13 litres of water in a 20 litre pot = a lot of mess when trying to mash in. This is about the top end of what I would try, as there is generally no more room.

Let us know how it goes.
 

Amber Fluid

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:icon_offtopic: I am curious as to how you get no loss to Trub and Chiller?
 

Aces High

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I did a BIAB 1071 black ipa the other day, last time i did this recipe i only got to 1060. This time I did a longer mash, but i could tell that it was a really thick when doughing in. I did hit my numbers, but instead of 60 minutes I keep going to about 75 minutes. In hindsight a 90 minute boil and adding more water at the beginning would definitely help.

in your situation, definitely use 2 pots and adjust brewmate for 90 minute boil and you should be able to hit the numbers pretty close
 

seemax

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Make life easy ... aim for maybe 1.065 and use LME or dextrose to top it up.
 

QldKev

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Make life easy ... aim for maybe 1.065 and use LME or dextrose to top it up.

Agreed,

There seems like a lot of ideas to make brew day harder. I want to make good beer easy! (I know technically that should say easily, but easy looks cool)

The idea of brewing in 2 pots etc to make a single batch is too much work. Get 2 decent sized pots and make 2 full BIAB batches for the same effort.

If you want a high gravity BIAB, get a good sized pot, 50 or 60L.
Mash in full vol,
Stir as a min at half time,
Mash min 90mins
Recirc if you can
Top up with LME if you did not hit your planned brewhouse efficiency

QldKev
 

Fish13

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:icon_offtopic: I am curious as to how you get no loss to Trub and Chiller?
i chill in the pot. pot goes straight to wash tub with ice packets. trub goes into fermenter. i still get clear beer.


Yeah i know i sort of should of got a bigger pot like a big 30L to do full batch size but as i am only doing 15L i didn't think ahead...

If i didn't already have all the grains and shit i would go for the LDME and top up. as talking with gryphon brewing he understand my thinking and experimenting a little.
 

stux

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I ran your grain bill through my CE BIABcalculator assuming a 29x30cm pot (ie 19.8L)

Based on a 90 min boil, with a 5L sparge in your 15L pot and no kettle trub (ugg) you should get about 77% efficiency into your fermenter

5.237KG of grain is required so, your 5.32 should be fine.

Use 15.33L of strike water. bring it up to the strike temperature, reserve a L or two, then add your grain, dough in effectively, and add back as much of the reserve water as you can to bring it right up to the rim, allowing room for your lid!

Mash for 90 mins.

Bring 5L up to a boil in your 15L pot, then drain the bag and dunk it in there, give it a good stir and agitation over 10 minutes while you start the boil in your other pot.

drain the bag, and squeeze the bajeezus out of it, and add as much of the sparge as you can into your first pot. Start both pots boiling and add as much sparge as soon as you can into the other pot during the boil.

Don't add any sparge with less than 15 minutes to go.

After a 90 min boil (assuming 2.83L/hr boiloff) you should have 15L of 1.078 wort in your primary pot :)

BTW, This calculator has been used to accurately predict an OG 1.110 barley wine using similar pots to what you have.

View attachment CE_BIABcalc_2012_02_24.xlsm.zip

PS: I used TF Maris Otter and Munton's grains in the grain bill, because they were already present in the sheet
 

zebba

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Why carapils? At og 1.078, I don't think you'll need it. Heck, I'd sub it for sugar
 

Fish13

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this recipe is a copy from what i found online.

Next one will be subbed for vienna, pale choc, pale malt and some caramunich.
 

manticle

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i chill in the pot. pot goes straight to wash tub with ice packets. trub goes into fermenter. i still get clear beer.


Yeah i know i sort of should of got a bigger pot like a big 30L to do full batch size but as i am only doing 15L i didn't think ahead...

If i didn't already have all the grains and shit i would go for the LDME and top up. as talking with gryphon brewing he understand my thinking and experimenting a little.
Leaving trub behind is not to do with finished beer clarity.

It's mainly to do with flavour effects on finished beer that certain fatty acids and proteins have and is mainly to do with shelf life/oxidation of beer.

If you drink your beer very quickly and notice no issues you care about then continue what you are doing. There are actually some advantages from trub carry over such as less need to oxygenate wort but it is generally believed that (hot break) trub has more negative effects than positive.

As I said - keep doing what you are doing if it seems to work for you - just don't confuse final beer clarity with wort clarity.
 

Fish13

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Leaving trub behind is not to do with finished beer clarity.

It's mainly to do with flavour effects on finished beer that certain fatty acids and proteins have and is mainly to do with shelf life/oxidation of beer.

If you drink your beer very quickly and notice no issues you care about then continue what you are doing. There are actually some advantages from trub carry over such as less need to oxygenate wort but it is generally believed that (hot break) trub has more negative effects than positive.

As I said - keep doing what you are doing if it seems to work for you - just don't confuse final beer clarity with wort clarity.
thanks manticle. i have no ag beers after a month. they sit for 2 weeks then the boys turn up and i'm out. i do try to remove the hot break as it bubbles away...

no off flavours noticed yet either...
 

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