Ash's Brewery Progress

[ausdb]

Hooked up my new mashmaster chiller, giving it a run today. I am ruunning the water through my old CFC with ice water runnign through the other way to chill my tap water to 15-20.

Ash try running your CFC with the ice water circulating in series with your plate chiller or vice versa, you will probably get better results as every time you go through an interface you lose a few degrees. The closer you can get the ice water to your wort the better.

If anyone wants to experiment at the WBBD this weekend I have a 6m coil of 3/8 copper than can be put in an ice bucket as a post chiller from my CFC.

 

[Ash in Perth]

That is probably what I will have to do, use the plate chiller for the first stage with tap water and then my old CFC with ice water for the second. This way I should be able to get down to about about 10-12 for lagers or at least 18 for ales.

 

[Whistlingjack]

Tha is probably what i eill have to do, use the plate chilelr for the first stage with tap water and my old CFC with ice water for teh second, this way i should be abel to get down to abotu 10-12 for lagers or at least 18 for ales.

Translation, please?

 

[Ash in Perth]

A bit more progress. I think im finished now for the 3rd time but who knows.

 

[Vlad the Pale Aler]

....and a comical fermenter, LC must pay well.

 

[animal_man]

wow
that is nice!

 

[stuart]

Hi Ash,

How did you attach the taps to the kettle? Got a pic?
Just about to add a robinox 36 or 50L to my brewery.
cheers
stu

 

[Ash in Perth]

I dont have any more pics on hand but it is a 1/2" socket welded top (whirlpool elbow inside at 2/3 wort height) and bottom (run off/recirculation) witha nipple and 3 pc ball valve attached.

Getting a good welding job done would be a bit expensive but worth while if you are buying an expensive pot and want it to last

Hope this helps

 

[brendanos]

Is there a gear box hidden inbetween the drill and the mill, or is it direct drive? I couldn't get enough power out of either of my drills to overcome the stall torque.

I take it you ran out of room in the old brewshed?

 

[Ash in Perth]

yeh the old shed was too small, in my new house, the shed is double the size of my entire old shed and its all dedicated to the brewery.

My old drill couldnt handle it so i went and got a 1010W drill with a metal gearbox instead of the crap plastic ones most drills have. it has no trouble evne at slower speeds. its jsut a cheap brand from bunnigns but its a good drill

 

[brendanos]

Cheers Ash, guess I'll be investing in a new drill in the near future.

 

[Cortez The Killer]

That's a sweet sweet rig

Cheers

 

[DarkFaerytale]

nice one! i like the idea of putting one of those 5L heinie kegs on your mill as a hoper, good work (tu)

-Phill

 

[DEALE]

Great looking brewery. I am starting the same process with 3 ss kegs now. Already several months in and a large hole cut in the top rather than the cut down version. I started to asseble peices from Bunnings for a no weld set up, but have realised welded and SS fittings are the way forward. By the way I have found SS to be very reasonable now, not much cheaper to go with brass.

I have some questions ( I am new to AG brewing, have done a few partials and many kits in the past)

Why did you go with the element in the kettle rather than a burner? Ability to have a thermostat?

Are the mashmaster guages fastened into the socket, and the socket welded to the keg with the probe
poking through a small hole or one the size of the socket diameter. Are they 1/2 inch?

Any reason for the valve pointing down from the kettle and is the pump used to drive all the liquids?

Why the 2 valves on the Mash Tun?

Do the silicon hoses slip over the barbs and stay there without clamps?

How important is a pump and what did the March cost?

 

[Sammus]

Great looking brewery. I am starting the same process with 3 ss kegs now. Already several months in and a large hole cut in the top rather than the cut down version. I started to asseble peices from Bunnings for a no weld set up, but have realised welded and SS fittings are the way forward. By the way I have found SS to be very reasonable now, not much cheaper to go with brass.

I have some questions ( I am new to AG brewing, have done a few partials and many kits in the past)

Why did you go with the element in the kettle rather than a burner? Ability to have a thermostat?

Are the mashmaster guages fastened into the socket, and the socket welded to the keg with the probe
poking through a small hole or one the size of the socket diameter. Are they 1/2 inch?

Any reason for the valve pointing down from the kettle and is the pump used to drive all the liquids?

Why the 2 valves on the Mash Tun?

Do the silicon hoses slip over the barbs and stay there without clamps?

How important is a pump and what did the March cost?

I'm pretty sure kettle is the one with the burner and 2 valves - one of which is for draining, and the other for whirlpooling with the pump.

Oh yeah, and nice setup

 

[DEALE]

Yeah your'e right I got the terminology around the wrong way LOL

 

[Ash in Perth]

Bringing it back from the dead.

I've been quiet on here lately but I've been brewing still and thought some of you might like to see my new hopback. It's made for about 200g of cones which is about the maximum I'll ever need on my 20-30L system.

 

[jayandcath]

I can feel the enamel being disolved off my teech just looking at that green goodness.

Nice work Ash, sweet rig.

Jay