Ahb Wiki: The No-chiller Method / Using A Cube

[Mantis]

I bought a 25lt cube today. It actually holds just shy of 27lt filled to the brim.
Question is could I no chill 25lt in this successfully. I am guessing that it wouldnt be a good idea, but putting 27 lt in my fermenters would see krausen coming out of the air lock me thinks.

Mantis

 

[porky]

Question is could I no chill 25lt in this successfully.

Mantis

Yes, I do it all the time. I make 22 lt batches so after transferring to secondary and then into keg I don't have much (or any) left over.
I soak the cube in bleach and water and rinse. It is clean and won't cause any problems. I do not tip it so hot wort goes into the handle. I know lots of people do, I see no need.
The cube expands at first with the hot wort, then next day it has sucked in, so it hasn't pulled in any air.
No problems after 35 batches so far.

Cheers,
Bud

 

[smudge]

The only time I don't pour the whole thing into the fermenter is when I want to use the yeast cake for future brews. The less
trub, break etc that is in the fermenter, the cleaner my yeast for my next batch.

Cheers,
smudge

 

[beerbelly]

Going to try the no chill method for my next brew,and could someone just clarify one part of the process for me.After you drain the near boiling wort from the kettle to the cube how long should it sit before i put it in the fridge to cool it down to pitching temp.

 

[imellor]

I Let mine sit on the concrete floor in the shed until it comes down to room temp usually overnight then put in the fridge. Putting it in the fridge hot just overworks your fridge.

If you have not done it yet make sure you read Wiki No Chill by Cortez The Killer.

:icon_cheers:

 

[KHB]

When i first started AG i no chilled about 4 batches and then bought a plate chiller, but due to time constraints (2 kids under 3) im gonna start night brewing again when i finish work around 9pm. So im gonna pick up a Cube and do my next brew NO CHILL to knock off som e brewing time at 1am in the morning!

KHB

 

[geoffi]

Combine no-chill with double batches and you'll save even more time overall. Takes slightly longer to finish one brew, but you get two for one.

When i first started AG i no chilled about 4 batches and then bought a plate chiller, but due to time constraints (2 kids under 3) im gonna start night brewing again when i finish work around 9pm. So im gonna pick up a Cube and do my next brew NO CHILL to knock off som e brewing time at 1am in the morning!

KHB

 

[KHB]

Combine no-chill with double batches and you'll save even more time overall. Takes slightly longer to finish one brew, but you get two for one.

Yeah my kettle allows for 40lt post boil so ferment one and put one away for later. I dont know alot about no chilling so let the learning begin.

KHB

 

[rjonnz]

getting ready to try my first no-chill here in the usa. the cubes i ordered are ldpe instead of hdpe, so i hope it works out. might have to let the wort get down below 95c before i transfer from the brew kettle, from what i've read. seems like a sensible method to me. :beer:

 

[Damian44]

You might want to fill it with boiling water for the 1st time, to make sure no plastic tastes leak into your wort. If you make a couple of extra liters of wort you can give it a ice bath and use it as a starter. GL

 

[rjonnz]

You might want to fill it with boiling water for the 1st time, to make sure no plastic tastes leak into your wort. If you make a couple of extra liters of wort you can give it a ice bath and use it as a starter. GL

great ideas, will do. i'm going to try my first lager in a few days, so i will use any excess ale wort as a starter.

 

[Thirsty Boy]

mmmm - I have no idea of the difference that LDPE vs HDPE is going to make. Probably the cubes will go more "mushy" when heated???

The boiling water is a good idea for a coupe of reasons then.

First - are the cubes physically capable of doing what you want them to do?? Be careful. You dont want ot find out when one fails and spills 20L of boiling sugar water all over you. HDPE we know can handle the process. LDPE - ??

Second - I wouldn't commit beer to a cube if I hadn't gone through a couple of cycles of filling and cooling the cube with very hot or boiling water. I did this with my cubes till I could no longer tell the difference between water boiled and cooled in a conical flask and water boiled and cooled in the cube. Blind triangle tasting. It took a few times through to get rid of the "taste" from the cube. Other people don't bother with this step and don't seem to have had a problem - but the cooled water tasted nasty.....

 

[Bizier]

I just bought 2 BMW 20L jerrycans from Bunnings yesterday. There are 3 openings, 2 at the top and the bung comes pre-drilled (rather than blind). I didn't realise this when I was buying it, but I think it will be OK if it is ultra clean, then pasteurised. They seem to be pretty heavy duty.

Is anyone else using these?

I plan to test the evap rate and a few other things of my BIAB setup, so I will leave that boiling water to cool in the cubes and see how that goes in rinsing the plastic smell out.

 

[mckenry]

I just bought 2 BMW 20L jerrycans from Bunnings yesterday. There are 3 openings, 2 at the top and the bung comes pre-drilled (rather than blind). I didn't realise this when I was buying it, but I think it will be OK if it is ultra clean, then pasteurised. They seem to be pretty heavy duty.

Is anyone else using these?

I plan to test the evap rate and a few other things of my BIAB setup, so I will leave that boiling water to cool in the cubes and see how that goes in rinsing the plastic smell out.

Yep, I'm using them. I have 2 X 20L (which are actually closer to 22L) a 10L & a 5L. I like to have minimal head space. So, post boil, I see what I have ended up with and determine which cubes to use. If I end up with 38L - which I aim for, I'll fill a 20 (22) the 10 (which is 10) and the 5, then keep a litre as a starter in a PET. If I get something less, the starter misses the bus first and backwards from there. If I go for a proper double batch, the 2 X 22L are filled as best as can be. Doubles are my mash tun limit - it's getting chockers in there - as I batch sparge.

 

[Bizier]

Cheers Mckenry.

My plan is to hopefully do triple batches with a 100L BIAB setup, even if it means adding some extra grain to hit numbers + a top up of water while boiling. That way I can do 2 into cubes and one (possibly smaller vol) straight to the fermenter, possibly via counterflow chiller/hopback, though I am still unsure about that side of things.

 

[chucke]

getting ready to try my first no-chill here in the usa. the cubes i ordered are ldpe instead of hdpe, so i hope it works out. might have to let the wort get down below 95c before i transfer from the brew kettle, from what i've read. seems like a sensible method to me. :beer:

Hi,
US Plastic Corp. sells HDPE 5 gallon cubes. Make sure to order over $30 (or $35?) and shipping isn't too bad.

I've ordered from them before with no hassle or drama.

I use their cubitainers for a Quasi Real Ale system.
Also their 5 liter cubes with an added air lock for more authentic real ale.
5 liters is good size for individual use within the time period where the beer will go bad.

 

[RagingBull]

Left my cube overnight (on it's side) - just read the guide and confirmed that it should have been upright (overnight).

Picked it up this morning and stood it upright, and "hiss".

Starting to worry whether my now chilled wort could be prone to infection.

Mind you, the sides are still sucked in and perhaps this was air escaping?

I plan to transfer it into the fermenter tonight, so fingers crossed.

Nothing to worry about?

Cheers,

 

[Cortez The Killer]

Should be ok

Just get yeast in ASAP

Cheers

 

[clean brewer]

Mind you, the sides are still sucked in and perhaps this was air escaping?

Thatll be fine, its just air..

 

[RagingBull]

Thanks guys, your help is much appreciated.
I've been lurking on the forum reading every day at work on my lunch break for the past month or two.. its becomming very addictive!