Ag Gear.... What Do I Need?

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Everyone has forgotten the humble zapap bucket in bucket mashtun setup.
i've always said it's basically free and easy

some people have a drill, some people have a sewing machine, some people have an esky and some pots. whatever works for the individual.
 
Hey all,

Has been a while since this thread was touched and I have a new question.

I have acquired a steel keg (looks like its made from SS on the inside, and has a metal outer skin??).

Anyway I was wondering if this would be a suitable option to use as either a kettle or HLT???

Any thoughts? Ways I should modify it?

Would hold approx 50-60 L easily I assume. I am a little concerned about the rust on the outside however a quick hit with a steel brush coul fix that??


Photos below.

Cheers, Pok


Front
Front.jpg

Top
top.jpg

Tap
Tap.jpg
 
Have you got a 4 to 5 inch angle grinder pokobinguy? If you have go to the hardware store and buy one or two of those new stainless steel ultra thin cutting discs (only $3 each) and cut a big hole in the top. Before you cut find an old frying pan lid that will serve as a lid and cut to that size.
You know that in the interim you can use that vessell as your HLT and Kettle.
I use a three ring burner with a grain and grape variable regulator/hose ($40). Plenty of power for my 30 litre batches, often only running two rings once boiling.
I am currently useing a cheap 35 litre rectangular esky with a manifold made from 1/2 inch copper tube slotted with the angle grinder disc previously mentioned (like palmers in "how to brew"). I am consistently getting above 80% efficiency with this mush tun.

Good luck mate, who know we might cross paths some day - me being from Maitland :beer:
 
That one looks like an old kildakin.. the outside is just a protective layer and really wont make too much difference to whats goingon on the inside. Make it pretty if you want though :)

I vote for using it as a kettle. If you are planning on using kegs as teh basis for your system... then you wont find too many that are bigger than 50l. I reckon you want your kettle bigger than your HLT, so get another normal keg for HLT and use the bigger one for the kettle.

If you are willing to pony up the cash for a proper pot as your next vessel though, then I say use it as a HLT and use the actual pot as your kettle.

I will however add my voice to the brigade that is suggesting BIAB. I brew using both BIAB and a traditional 3 vessel system. Heres why I suggest that you go BIAB.. for now at least.

You already have 75% of what you need. The Keg as your kettle. All you need is a burner and $10.00 for bag material and you are basically there.

You could already be brewing your first AG batches when otherwise you might still be looking around for the "other" two vessels.

If after a few brews, you decide you would rather go traditional, you have probably only spent $10.00 that you wouldn't be spending anyway, so its a no-lose proposition

You can "learn on the fly" IMHO the BIAB technique is so much less complicated than a trad brew, that it gets you going, brewing and learning from experience very quickly. You can brush up on theory and different techniques, while you are drinking your first brews.

As I said, I brew both ways... and I will basically never recommend that someone "enter" the realm of AG brewing via a 3 vessel system again. I simply feel that BIAB is a MUCH more appropriate technique for begginers.

And if you want more... then you move on with virtually no disadvantage, having gained a bit of knowledge on the way.

Either way, that keg is a great score. Good luck.

Thirsty
 
Hey all,

Has been a while since this thread was touched and I have a new question.

I have acquired a steel keg (looks like its made from SS on the inside, and has a metal outer skin??).

Anyway I was wondering if this would be a suitable option to use as either a kettle or HLT???

Any thoughts? Ways I should modify it?

Would hold approx 50-60 L easily I assume. I am a little concerned about the rust on the outside however a quick hit with a steel brush coul fix that??
Photos below.

Cheers, Pok
Front
View attachment 14294

Top
View attachment 14295

Tap
View attachment 14296



Ok So I have finally found a little bit of time to play with this Keg. And I want to strip all the paint etc off the outside and then paint it.

Now my questions are:

whats the best way to remove the paint / rust etc? I hit it with a wire brush that you use in a drill, same as this ...

wire_brush.JPG

while it took nicely to removing the rust etc it didnt really work to well on the old yellow paint. What would be the best method? paint stripper???

Now I was thinking of painting a layer of "kill rust" on her and then painting her a nice red colour or something along those line. Something that looks nice and pretty. What sought of paint should I use, or steer clear off figuring that it will be exposed to heat from being used as a kettle???

On the note of my mash tun I am going to convert a chest eskie and go down that route.


Thanks again folks..... AG will be here soon... Hopefully.... and yes I know I can go BIAB etc etc but I like doing things the whole hog..... and anyway I want new shiny toys!!

Po :beer: k
 
The "kill rust" works best if there is a fine layer of rust left, as it works by chemically converting the rust on the metal.
Once you have done that, you might think about using roof paint. It's designed to be used on metal. Have a look at the can when you buy it whether or not you need a metal primer, or whether you can paint it straight on after the "kill rust" has done its work.
Good luck.
 
A bigass pot - 80L ally from allquip

bigpot.JPG

Small child to go in the pot optional.
 
if you truss that child with butchers string he should fit in the pot better ;)

good score! i've never seen a double skin keg before.
you could use engine paint on the outer surface. it handles higher heat than a roof paint is designed for.
 
I think Tangent has raised a valid point there... (about the paint AND the child)

Hows paint going to go when you stick fire under that puppy?? Engine paint will be fine if you heat it with an electric element... but if you are using a gas burner ???

If you can paint it ... I'd love to know what with. 'Cause my Kettle is a manky looking old keg and I'd like to spruce it up a little.

Eski and braid systems work fantastically. If you've decided to go down that route, its a little more trouble than BIAB... but hell, you also get to play with more stuff and thats no bad thing.

Good luck, have fun. You WILL make great beer

Cheers

Thirsty
 
I think Tangent has raised a valid point there... (about the paint AND the child)

Hows paint going to go when you stick fire under that puppy?? Engine paint will be fine if you heat it with an electric element... but if you are using a gas burner ???

If you can paint it ... I'd love to know what with. 'Cause my Kettle is a manky looking old keg and I'd like to spruce it up a little.

Eski and braid systems work fantastically. If you've decided to go down that route, its a little more trouble than BIAB... but hell, you also get to play with more stuff and thats no bad thing.

Good luck, have fun. You WILL make great beer

Cheers

Thirsty


Roof paint sounds like a good option.... should be cheap and readily available in lots of colours...

Also there shouldnt be any direct heat to the paint really if I use a gas burner as the base is part of the inner SS keg

bottom.jpg

Thanks for the help folks, greatly appreciated,

Cheers, Pok :chug:
 
Cool,

let us know if the paint stays attached to the hotter bits. If it does, I will be arranging for a nice fire engine red boil kettle.... maybe with pinstripes.
 
Engine/enginebay/exhaust paint. There used to be this stuff called VHT paint for exhausts, and that was supposed to handle up 1500 degrees(I think from memory) ......might be a bit more appropriate than roof paint, and you can buy it in little spray aerosol cans.... :)
 
i can see a new thread developing
Show me your custom kettle paint job.
 
VHT (Very High Temp!) exhaust manifold paint is still available, 1500 deg F. They also make brake caliper and engine block paints, in aerosol. Never thought about using it in my brewery thought :)
 
VHT (Very High Temp!) exhaust manifold paint is still available, 1500 deg F. They also make brake caliper and engine block paints, in aerosol. Never thought about using it in my brewery thought :)


Is it expensive? And where is the best place to source it?


Pok
 
Ok.... Hole got cut thanks to MHB and also 2000W (something like that) heating element installed.

I have now painted with Kill rust to stop rust and also be a undercoat. Will eventually paint fire engine red.

For the moment she looks like this:


after_kill_rust.jpg

After Kill rust painted on... looks better already :D

top_cut.jpg

New hole it top thanks for MHB, glass lid fits perfectly :D

element.jpg

Heating Element installed..also thanks to MHB

element_plug.jpg

Element plug


So the Kettle is coming along well.

Pok
 
I'm thinking about getting my hands on a pump to move the liquids from vessel to vessel instead of relying on gravity.

Would something like the following be appropriate?

pump

Cheers, Pok
 
No idea why the link won't work... but if you search ebay for "hot water pump" its the first one... for $99

details are: (taken straight from ebay)

HOT WATER CIRCULATOR PUMP W/3-SPEED, 240 VOLT (NEW)
*the circulator pump (with cast iron body) is specifically designed for hot water or heating circulators, the pump increases the pressure so that the required pressure is available at showers, taps etc for domestic central heating systems, the pump is used in open systems and can be connected directly to the water main, it has three speeds control, high delivery rates at the low installed power rating, reliable, economical and quiet to use, suitable for domestic, industrial circulation, including heating water, cooling water, air condition circulation systems etc,
*manual 3-speed control
*motor: 93w/240v/single phase
*max. flow: 40L/min
*max. head lift: 6M
*connection: 25mm (1")
*fluid temperature range: -10C to +110C
*max. ambient temperature: 55C
*max. static pressure: 147psi (10bar)
*shipping weight: 5kgs

af20_1.JPG
 
Back
Top