Ag Gear.... What Do I Need?

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pokolbinguy

The Pokolbin Brewhaus and Winery.
Joined
7/4/06
Messages
3,027
Reaction score
11
Hi all,

I know this has been covered a million times but I can't locate threads..... there is sooo many to search through.


What I would like to know is what equipment would I need to make the move from kits to AG? I know its a big jump but I would love to do it in the future... and It would be good to have a list of things I need to aquire and start collecting.

So if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

Cheers, Pok :party: :chug:
 
Hi all,

I know this has been covered a million times but I can't locate threads..... there is sooo many to search through.
What I would like to know is what equipment would I need to make the move from kits to AG? I know its a big jump but I would love to do it in the future... and It would be good to have a list of things I need to aquire and start collecting.

So if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

Cheers, Pok :party: :chug:


Pok - have a read of this site: Go to the bottom of the first page for a step by step guide to an AG and it will show you roughly the basic equipment needed. Its so bloody easy. Join a brew club as I got all my gear from members who were willing to pass on their old equipment as very good prices (i.e. in exchange for beer)

http://cruisenews.net/brewing/infusion/

Cheers
Steve
 
Mash tun - Can be an esky or a stainless keg or a pail bucket. Then u need the guts of the mash tun - either a False bottom or Stainless steel braid.

Kettle or Pot - 50 litre pot minimum in my opion. Can be smaller but that would be my preference.

Some food grade hose to transfer hot wort from vessel to vessel.

And you can opt for a HLT - to heat mash and sparge water in. I just use a 15litre pot on the stove but i will soon be buying a 30 litre urn.

Thats about it
 
Something to mash in - needs to keep temperature stable. An insulated bucket will do. An esky is nice.

Something to sparge through. You are aiming to hold the husks in a bed, they do the filtering, do not aim to filter the wort, that is what the husks do. Recirculate the first bit so there are no chunks. False bottom, braid, cheesecloth pegged over a bucket, all will work.

Something to boil in. A collection of pots on the stove will work. A kettle with a tap is better.
Heat source can be your stove, 3 ring burner, or element.

Something to cool the wort. Dunk the covered pots in tubs of water, keep changing the water. Use an immersion chiller. Use a nice counterflow chiller from Mashmaster. Use the "no chill" method but you will need to be particular about sanitation and hot racking.

A good thermometer is absolutely essential.

These are not essential but will make the process easier. A mash paddle helps. Plenty of jugs. A spare fermenter. Scales to weigh hops. Scales to weigh grain.

Depends on how big a batch size you want to do, how deep your pockets are and how good you are at adapting found bits of gear.

For your first brew aim for a 1.050 og, 25 IBU's pale ale. This is a forgiving style that even if your og is higher or lower, the end result is a decent drop.
 
Or you can go the BIAB path:

Kettle (30L+, aluminium or stainless steel)
Gas burner (or use your stove top - you can add the burner later if required)
Bag (muslin, canvas, swiss voile)

Plus other odds and ends mentioned previously such as thermometer, jugs, etc.
 
Here's a bit of a look at the dark side.

AG Brew Porn..

Some rig's look like they were from the tip :eek: , some great use of plastic and some are just crazy $$$$$.$$
Heaps of broken links. A few members from here on the site too.

hope it helps.

- Luke :beerbang:
 
Pok!

Still laughing at FNQBunyip's post. HTFU has recently become a QLD catch-cry! If you haven't heard of it, send Bunyip a PM and he'll explain it - it's pretty funny.

Anyway, Bunyip and apd got into AG using the BIAB link that Bunyip provided above. When you read that link, you'll see that I've had a fair bit to do with brewing in a bag and am quite passionate about seeing guys in your position at least start with this method because I have been in your position.

I read and read and got totally confused. Luckily, Ross invited me up to watch one of his traditional brews (by traditional I mean batch or fly-sparging, Ross batches) and then he came down to help me with my first. This two day process involved drinking a myriad of beers but luckily Ross took photos.

I ended up writing A Guide To Mashing And Batch Sparging It needs a re-write but I think as it is a distillation/combination of all the stuff I read and was taught it is well worth a read. Hate blowing my own trumpet as it's other people's wisdom and help that I'm passing on but I do know that a lot of guys found those notes of great help.

I have actually gone from the traditional method to brewing in a bag. I have several reasons for doing so that I'll list below. I'm going to have a crack at listing them in order. I'll try and list in order of importance but that will be hard as every brewer's requirements/expertise are different. You also have to bear in mind that I'm a bit of a perfectionist so if quality were an issue, you would find me writing essays in other areas of AG. Because of this, I'm listing quality first but of more interest to you I imagine (as these were things that worried/confused me when considering a move to AG) would be expense and knowledge - they're a bit further down.

1. Quality: I know can brew a beer of equivalent quality to a beer brewed traditionally. I've brewed some better ones as well. (I've also brewed some crap beers but not because of the method.) So far, and there has been many a beer brewed in a bag now (Bunyip and I have done at least 400 litres each probably more), no one has been able to detect a difference or unfavourable aspect of a beer that has been BIABed. I have always actively encouraged people to find faults. To date we have found none. Even in a side by side brew done followed by triangular testing, only one experienced could find a difference and the difference was equivalent not negative.

2. Equipment/Expense: To BIAB, you need a bag, burner, a kettle and a thermometer the latter being as important than the other two. With traditional, you need another two major vessels. These add cost and are not are not easy to control without even more cost . POL, who baby-sat me through my early AHB days, who always writes great posts and to whom I haven't written to or thanked in way too long, has listed that equipment above. This equipment, without extra expense, also makes it hard to control your mash in the first 25 minutes.

3. Knowledge: Even though the current BIAB guide is not written as well as it could be (for example, it talks about an 'escalator mash' which I don't think any of us have ever done - seemed a good idea at the time of writing though!) it has still got a lot more people over the fence into AG than the 'Mashing and Batch-Sparging Guide' has done. It allows you to concentrate on the essence of brewing without a quality loss.

4. New/Exciting: I like areas that are new and exciting. I love building stuff. I love electronics. I love gadgetry. This is a whole new world of BIAB that has not been explored yet. I have ideas but no space or workshop - spewing! There is so much that can be done here. In fact, the only guys I can think of that have gone from BIAB to traditional have done so for this reason (of these few, I know at least a couple that still incorporate the bag into their traditional brewing.) At the moment, BIAB is more manual than technical. I'm hoping that this will change.

5. Space/Cleaning: I brew in an apartment so space and cleaning are major considerations. Only wrote one sentence here but this is at least a third of brewing importance.

6. Brewery Output Increase: My needs of brewing ideally require me brewing 2 different beers every fortnight. If I buy one extra vessel, I can brew these 2 different beers on the same day using/cleaning all the same equipment (apart from one extra kettle) and only costing me an extra hour. Later I can rack/filter/keg at the same time. In other words, the above advantages repercuss. This is a huge bonus and I probably should have put it second on the list.

7. Brewing Variations: One last thing that excites me about BIAB is that with a little engunuity, anyone can explore easily the differences in mashing temperature regimes. While this is unimportant to anyone starting AG, it's an area that I find fascinating now and am sure, will do so even more in days to come.

Well Pok, that's probably my longest and most coherent post in at least a month. I've been very tired lately and posting poorly. Hope this one makes up for it. Has anyone even read this far?

LOL
Pat
 
Whoops!

Forgot my major point....

I think that advising people to BIAB their way into AG (maybe even stay with it) is very good advice and should be actively encouraged but...

What I forgot to ask is, 'Are there any reasons why we shouldn't encourage it?'

I'm always open for criticism or limitations of BIAB to be listed. It's important. The only one we have come up with so far is if you wanted to brew a double-batch. The weight of the bag would test Atlas himself!

Spot,
Pat
 
Definitely much info on how to AG here, just take some time to read as it defo pays in the end.

www.howtobrew.com is an excellant source if you don't mind the american version. Just read it a couple of times to make sure all the steps sink in and you'll be right.

Only other point i'd like to make is if your going to use your gear for a long time (like me im only 25 and plan to use it for ages) then go as much stainless steel as possible coz it will pay off in the long run.

Let us know how you go.
 
Whoops!

Forgot my major point....

I think that advising people to BIAB their way into AG (maybe even stay with it) is very good advice and should be actively encouraged but...

What I forgot to ask is, 'Are there any reasons why we shouldn't encourage it?'

I'm always open for criticism or limitations of BIAB to be listed. It's important. The only one we have come up with so far is if you wanted to brew a double-batch. The weight of the bag would test Atlas himself!

Spot,
Pat
One good reason is that compared to other forms of brewing it very much unproven. Now please let me preface this by saying I have nothing against this method. To be honest I know bugger all about it so won't criticise the technique it's self.

I think it's great that people are trying something new. However, I don't think it's the best idea to recommend something that is new and untested, when compared to other methods, to new brewers who need as much information and coaching as they can get. It is much easier for them to find information and documentation on other methods. It is easier for them to get advice on other methods.

One day Brewing in a bag may be mature enough for new brewers but right now I think it is best to recommend something tried and tested to the beginner.
 
One good reason is that compared to other forms of brewing it very much unproven. Now please let me preface this by saying I have nothing against this method. To be honest I know bugger all about it so won't criticise the technique it's self.

I think it's great that people are trying something new. However, I don't think it's the best idea to recommend something that is new and untested, when compared to other methods, to new brewers who need as much information and coaching as they can get. It is much easier for them to find information and documentation on other methods. It is easier for them to get advice on other methods.

One day Brewing in a bag may be mature enough for new brewers but right now I think it is best to recommend something tried and tested to the beginner.


Aron , As Pat has said this BIAB method has got more new brewers brewing AG sooner than the traditional 3 vessel method. Its Not unproven , as there are plenty of us doing it and we'er all prepared to help/show /suport anyone new that wants to get going with AG BIABing. For myself and a few others we would still be dreaming of setting up a 3 vessle brewery and drinking KK if it was'nt for the BIAB and the suport of other BIAB'ers.

Biab is a great starting point because even if you only do it that way 2 or 3 brews you will understand the whole brewing procedure and process much more clearly than setting up a 3 vessel system and trying your first brew on that. As mentioned by plenty of others you can read all you like but the more you read the more confusing it can get. If you've read anought to want to go AG but feel daunted by the whole thing garb a bag and chuck a brew on , then come back and read more as then you will have first hand experiance and questions that are ezyly ansered.


Aron , My first instinct on reading your post was to flame you with foul language , I've refrained .

:beer:
 
I think BIAB has been fairly tested...not by me.

I just dont like how its get pimped onto to every new brewer.

Give them a choice..

Normal 3 Vessel mash Method
or
BIAB

Let them decide what they want to do. If they say Normal way then good let the "normal" guys give em advice.

If they choose BIAB let PP do his thing.

Just seems to me like everyones getting PUSHED into BIAB with massive posts.
 
Hi all,

I know this has been covered a million times but I can't locate threads..... there is sooo many to search through.
What I would like to know is what equipment would I need to make the move from kits to AG? I know its a big jump but I would love to do it in the future... and It would be good to have a list of things I need to aquire and start collecting.

So if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

Cheers, Pok :party: :chug:

I am not sure what Australians mean by "kits", but if it is the same thing as extract brewing... then I can tell you what you need extra. I assume you have your boiling pot, and a thermometer, and all of the normal brewing accesories already.

It is deadly simple, and did not cost me more than about 15 - 20 Euro. I get 80%+ efficiency with it. Follow the step links below for more information.

Step 1. Use this container to mash, then batch sparge
mashtun.jpg


Step 2. Siphon the wort into a container/kettle (I am draining into the fermenter, but it will end up in the kettle)
DSC01290.jpg


If your kettle is not big enough to boil your whole volume (like mine), then you can split the batch into multiple boils, hence this is the reason I was not draining the wort into the kettle.

To batch sparge, follow this link... Batch Sparging Method
To BIAB, look no further than this board... you will not need a cooler for BIAB, just a big bag and your big kettle, and some sort of device to prevent the bag from touching the bottom of the kettle.

I have not done BIAB, but it seems like there is minimal water/volume calculation to be done while doing it (which is nice)... heck, you do not even need to perform much water/volume calculations with batch sparge either... BUT, efficiency and other things can suffer as a result.

At the end of the day, you will make beer, no matter how you sparge.


cheers!
 
Biab is a great starting point because even if you only do it that way 2 or 3 brews you will understand the whole brewing procedure and process much more clearly than setting up a 3 vessel system and trying your first brew on that.

Let me start by saying I have nothing against BIAB, and I've tried the results of it and cannot see any major flaws.

I simply don't understand how you gain a better understanding of brewing using BIAB over a traditional brewery system though? I'm interested to hear why it somehow gives you a better insight into brewing? What does it teach you about sparging? How does it help you to understand the difference between the gravity and flavour of wort at the start and end of runnings? How about the differences in heat retention and fermentability based on liquor/grist ratio?

Whilst I beleive BIAB is a great, simple to use solution for a new brewer just wanting to get their feet wet and try AG brewing, I don't think it is a better way to learn about brewing compared to a traditional system.
 
Aron , As Pat has said this BIAB method has got more new brewers brewing AG sooner than the traditional 3 vessel method. Its Not unproven , as there are plenty of us doing it and we'er all prepared to help/show /suport anyone new that wants to get going with AG BIABing. For myself and a few others we would still be dreaming of setting up a 3 vessle brewery and drinking KK if it was'nt for the BIAB and the suport of other BIAB'ers.

Biab is a great starting point because even if you only do it that way 2 or 3 brews you will understand the whole brewing procedure and process much more clearly than setting up a 3 vessel system and trying your first brew on that. As mentioned by plenty of others you can read all you like but the more you read the more confusing it can get. If you've read anought to want to go AG but feel daunted by the whole thing garb a bag and chuck a brew on , then come back and read more as then you will have first hand experiance and questions that are ezyly ansered.
Aron , My first instinct on reading your post was to flame you with foul language , I've refrained .

:beer:
I'm not sure why you wanted to flame me. Pat asked for comments and I gave him mine. There was not any attack of anyone or anything in my comments. My comments are what I think and that is all. If you read my comments, all of them talk about this method in relation to traditional methods. Brewing in a bag has nowhere near the volume of people involved or available documentation that traditional methods have. Nor does it have anywhere near the number of people expert in it to help people.

As I said the first time I wouldn't know if it is actually a good way to make beer. I am of the opinion that until it matures further it may not be the best method for new brewers. By all means do the work and the experimentation to develop it. It is good that people are trying new things. My opinion is that new brewers are better served not working with new methods and are better with methods that have been in use for a long time.
 
OK, with my limited brewing experience, I really can't say if one method is better than another. I can say though, that the BIAB method gave me the ability to jump into AG without needing to worry about all the other equipment that I might need. I know people can put together a traditional system on the cheap, but this can take time, so when you are desperately wanting to do an AG brew and see what all the fuss is about, you don't really care which method you use, just that you can do it now! Adjustments to your equipment and methods can be done further down the track - the important factor is that you are making beer :beer: This means using what you already have lying around as well as other bits you can acquire quickly and cheaply - I had to go and buy some fabric to make a bag out of, but that was basically it - I had a pot (somewhat small, so I had to do 2 boils), an eski and a stove. I basically took the BIAB approach, but did the mash in the eski in the bag and the boil in the pot. Have a look at what you already own and can use to make AG. Look at all methods that people use and try to work out which one you can do the quickest and cheapest, unless money is no object, then you can buy whatever you need.

Take the plunge ASAP - but be warned, once you have made beer from scratch, you will never want to go back to anything else. I cracked open a stubbie last night of my 6th ever brew, a CPA, which I did last year, it tasted better than I remember, but the aroma and twang just meant I couldn't finish it! Unfortunately, I've been short of time lately, so haven't been able to brew, which also means I have 4 empty kegs! Had to grab a couple of CPA kits, which I'll add a few hops to for a quick result until I can do some more AG!

Happy Brewing

Morrie :beerbang:
 
Everyone has forgotten the humble zapap bucket in bucket mashtun setup. Cheap, easy and works.

Another easy mash/sparge is buy some cheesecloth, peg it over a spare fermenter bucket and make some sort of standoff from rolled up wire mesh so that the space underneath the cheesecloth stands off the bottom of the bucket, otherwise the tap is blocked. You want a freespace of a few cm under the cheesecloth. Muslin or flyscreen will work too.

Mash in any insulated vessel, or mash in the bucket with plenty of insulation. Bubblewrap is cheap, use a few layers and also insulate under the bucket.

The critical point is maintaining the correct mash temp, especially in that critical first 30 mins of mashing.

All cobbled up systems work, just not as efficiently or as easily as the person with all ss gear with pumps.
 
I dug up and old post of mine from a similar thread:

I've just started BIABing and my setup cost about $150.

Breakdown:
$100 - 60ltr ally pot delivered (see allquip or kenscom online)
$18 - two electric jugs from the warehouse
$15 - brass tap from bunnings
$6 - material for the bag

AG beer & a world of new tastes - priceless.
 
Back
Top