Beer line connection

[DarrenHurst]

Hi all, have purchased a second hand Cobra head triple font set. Was fairly pitted and tarnished looking but after a few hours stripping and metal polishing they have come up real good.
I have stripped them all down and cleaned the internal piston type brass components until gleaming like new. The question is 'what is the best product to clean the internal of the taps', Thinking of using a bristle bottle type brush but what product.
Also I am replacing the beer lines to back of tap sets as pretty dirty, can anyone advise the best way to get the flared nipple into the end of the beer line. Have tried boiling water to soften (with the nipple slid over a thin screwdriver and held against handle) but an absolute bugger trying to stretch line enough to get over enough to sit correctly.
Thanks in advance, now I have two 19L cornies and all other bits needed I am going to attempt to transform my fridge freezer into a kegonater, hoping to be pouring draught beer on my next brew being put down later today.
Thanks in advance Daz

 

[kadmium]

First of all, that's a snazzy looking tap set up. Nice.

I would highly suggest replacing the seals and other goodies inside the taps. I'm not good enough to look at a tap and know the brand, but if you do find out, order replacement washers / springs etc.

After that, with the new line on I would mix up a 1% mixture of a brewery cleaner. I like the Atomic ABC from Keg King, it's australian made and has more to in then straight percarbonate.

However, any good PBW type cleaner will be enough. Mix it up warm, but not hot.

In a corny keg works, as you can then give the keg a clean too. Then run the taps till the cleaner is flowing out.

Let sit 15 minutes and flush with clean water. A GOOD flush. Then flush with sanitiser and leave the sanitisers sitting in the lines.

You could take the taps apart and just soak them in cleaner too. A soft bottle brush set like the ones for baby bottles would be good. Can give everything a scrub afterwards.

Avoid non brewery cleaners. Keep soap far away, as it will destroy the head on your beers.


In relation to getting beer line on, I used step clamps and good old fashion brute force.

I suggest boiling the kettle, dip the end in and let sit for a good 10 seconds. Remove, and I find a pair of needle nose pliers works well to slip in, then try open them inside the line.

In my opinion, avoid push in fittings as I had them and replaced due to constant leaking, and I didn't like that you can't see inside them. I feel like they give extra nooks and crannies for bacteria to hide.

If you don't give the taps a really good clean, you may start chasing infections in the kegs so do give it a shot.

Also, not sure if this is your first time setting up a keg system, but you need to balance the lines. Don't use gas pressure to finangle the pour speed. If you use 4mm ID beer line, you need 1.5m per tap. If you use 5mm you need more. I would suggest 4mm even though its a right pain to get on the disconnects etc.

If your line is too long, you will pour VERY slowly and if its too short you will froth up all the time.

If you try to use gas to control flow rate, you end up with either flat or over carbed beer and constantly chase your tail.

I would also suggest setting up a gas manifold at this stage. Not sure what your budget is, but I went with a 4 way manifold and I can take a photo for you if you wish.

 

[DarrenHurst]

First of all, that's a snazzy looking tap set up. Nice.

I would highly suggest replacing the seals and other goodies inside the taps. I'm not good enough to look at a tap and know the brand, but if you do find out, order replacement washers / springs etc.

After that, with the new line on I would mix up a 1% mixture of a brewery cleaner. I like the Atomic ABC from Keg King, it's australian made and has more to in then straight percarbonate.

However, any good PBW type cleaner will be enough. Mix it up warm, but not hot.

In a corny keg works, as you can then give the keg a clean too. Then run the taps till the cleaner is flowing out.

Let sit 15 minutes and flush with clean water. A GOOD flush. Then flush with sanitiser and leave the sanitisers sitting in the lines.

You could take the taps apart and just soak them in cleaner too. A soft bottle brush set like the ones for baby bottles would be good. Can give everything a scrub afterwards.

Avoid non brewery cleaners. Keep soap far away, as it will destroy the head on your beers.


In relation to getting beer line on, I used step clamps and good old fashion brute force.

I suggest boiling the kettle, dip the end in and let sit for a good 10 seconds. Remove, and I find a pair of needle nose pliers works well to slip in, then try open them inside the line.

In my opinion, avoid push in fittings as I had them and replaced due to constant leaking, and I didn't like that you can't see inside them. I feel like they give extra nooks and crannies for bacteria to hide.

If you don't give the taps a really good clean, you may start chasing infections in the kegs so do give it a shot.

Also, not sure if this is your first time setting up a keg system, but you need to balance the lines. Don't use gas pressure to finangle the pour speed. If you use 4mm ID beer line, you need 1.5m per tap. If you use 5mm you need more. I would suggest 4mm even though its a right pain to get on the disconnects etc.
I would also suggest setting up a gas manifold at this stage. Not sure what your budget is, but I went with a 4 way manifold and I can take a photo for you if you wish.

Cheers Kadmium for advice, much appreciated mate.
This is my first set up. I have bought as per attached shopping list, I will set up as follows - a one way non-return valve from CO2 regulator to the three way manifold and then 5mm lines to grey gas "in" connectors on corny, the "black" beer lines from cornies will be three metres to tap. I will take a tap and seals to a brew shop and see of they have replacements.
I ill get some PWB, I have Start San so will be sanitising with that as no rinse but would you suggest leaving in lines amd let beer push through.
Hoping this is a good starting set up. I have a hand beer tap ready for quick set up amd pouring until I figure the best way to go from fridge, up though top and into freezer without hitting chiller pipes and then to mount a sturdy shelf front of door and fit cobra font. This will only be until I design a bench top with built in BBQ at one end and beer font and under fridge at other.
Cheers Daz

 

[kadmium]

Cheers Kadmium for advice, much appreciated mate.
This is my first set up. I have bought as per attached shopping list, I will set up as follows - a one way non-return valve from CO2 regulator to the three way manifold and then 5mm lines to grey gas "in" connectors on corny, the "black" beer lines from cornies will be three metres to tap. I will take a tap and seals to a brew shop and see of they have replacements.
I ill get some PWB, I have Start San so will be sanitising with that as no rinse but would you suggest leaving in lines amd let beer push through.
Hoping this is a good starting set up. I have a hand beer tap ready for quick set up amd pouring until I figure the best way to go from fridge, up though top and into freezer without hitting chiller pipes and then to mount a sturdy shelf front of door and fit cobra font. This will only be until I design a bench top with built in BBQ at one end and beer font and under fridge at other.
Cheers Daz

Awesome sounds like you have it pretty much figured out.

Yeah one way valve is good, my gas manifold has check valves on each outlet.

PBW is perfect for a cleaner. As for how to clean kegs etc, investing in a bucket blaster was a big time / effort saver for me. I got the Keg Land one it's pretty good.

So the set up would be

CO2 bottle to valve into manifold.

Each manifold outlet to a grey disconnect.

Black disconnect to beer line, to tap.

In the mean time, consider buying picnic taps which you will find valuable anyway. Pretty inexpensive I think about $10 assembled.

Yeah star san is what you want. I leave it in the beer lines till I connect the next keg. Sometimes for long periods of time, never had issues.

Make sure you use warm but not hot water for PBW. And give a good rinse.

As for kegs, if you have brand new make sure you pressure test them all. Sometimes the posts need snugging up. Also buy a good quality keg lubricant that's good safe. I use lubrifilm I got from Keg King. It's made in the USA. Also, either a spray bottle of starsan or for something that lasts ages, ethyl-kill. I got one from Keg Land that has the spray nozzle and everything for $10.

What you want to do is spray the posts and inside the disconnects each time you use them, probably overkill but it's what I do.


If you got second hand kegs, consider replacing all seals / Pressure Release Valve (PRV) and lube them properly. Just a little dab will do.

Also, a touch of lube around the post orings after you clean the keg.


Then, what I generally do is when a keg kicks (empties) I rinse and wash straight away. I then leave it to dry. I usually have a keg ready to fill, which is previously full of star san. I then transfer that keg full of star san into the fresh washed keg. Then that keg sits waiting its turn. I replace the star san after a few uses or months.

So I have full kegs in fridge, a keg full of star san waiting to be emptied and filled. And an old keg coming off rotation ready for wash and fill.

 

[koshari]

thread bump,

had the same andale font as Darren with these 7mm OD lines coming out and couldn't find a fitting for them to save myself,

as a workaround i got some swagelok 1/4 compression fittings and nipped them up then drilled through the cap, olives and base with a sharp 7mm drill, after that i could push the tube in and make a seal,

hope this could assist others who didnt want to pull all the old line out which is for the birds....