Advice On Beersmith

[jason]

Just wondering if any beersmith users out there could tell me if the program takes into account absorption of the grain when mashing in. If so, how can I change it

Thanks
J

 

[bigfridge]

Just wondering if any beersmith users out there could tell me if the program takes into account absorption of the grain when mashing in. If so, how can I change it

Thanks
J

Yes it does ...... but why do you need to change it ? It is pretty much a constant - give or take a bit (due to grain variety, season, mositure content etc).

I find that all the water/wort volumes come out spot on.

Dave

 

[Screwtop]

It does bigfridge HERE but looks like you can't tweak it. I find the standard grain absorbtion in Beersmith a little short, about .75L short in 6Kg grain.

 

[jason]

Yes it does ...... but why do you need to change it ? It is pretty much a constant - give or take a bit (due to grain variety, season, mositure content etc).

I find that all the water/wort volumes come out spot on.

Dave
[/quote]


Dave I wanted to change it as i found when i was doing the mash that the mash was very thick (not much liquid above the grain). Which i think contributed to another stuck sparge. So thats two stuck sparges from my first two all grainers. But thats for another post. (Im looking for something to blame )

It does bigfridge HERE but looks like you can't tweak it. I find the standard grain absorbtion in Beersmith a little short, about .75L short in 6Kg grain.

Thanks screwtop, I had a look at the link. And like what you said, it doesnt seem you can alter the settings for grain absoption. I too think that it is alittle low.

 

[T.D.]

I wanted to change it as i found when i was doing the mash that the mash was very thick (not much liquid above the grain). Which i think contributed to another stuck sparge. So thats two stuck sparges from my first two all grainers. But thats for another post. (Im looking for something to blame )

I think you would be better off increasing the Water to Grain ratio - think around 2.6L/kg is the default ratio for Beersmith (which I find to be fine), but you could easily increase it to 3L/kg with no troubles.

But I don't think the amount of water in the mash is your problem. I would look at one of two things for your stuck sparge problem. Either a problem with your false bottom that is causing it to get clogged up during the sparge. Or, you are sparging too fast and the gain bed is compacting too quickly and stopping the flow of wort.

 

[Screwtop]

Jason, from experience with my gear, 3 things have contributed to stuck sparges here. 1. Grist ground too fine. 2. Sparging too fast. 3. Recirculating using a plastic lid with lots of holes, so's not to disturb the grain bed. This distributed fine particles over the top of the grain creating an impervious layer of grey mud. Think this may have also been due to running too fast when recirculating. I now open the valve only about half for recirculation, seems to run clear more quickly.

 

[KoNG]

have you measured the deadspace below your false bottom.. and then entere3d that into beersmith.?
you may be losing a litre or 2 there..!?!?!

 

[Borret]

A good point kong. Although I only have about 300ml left in the bottom before it starts to drag crud through again at the end of draining but there is actually 2 litres under my false bottom. So when underletting I will effectively have hotter water sitting there not helping raise the mashin temp of the grain as it cant' be stirred through and at the same time making the mash seem a touch thicker. I just add another litre or so to mashin over the what the calculator says and it all goes fine. I base eerything on the default 2.61 litres also.

I'd say runoff speed and temp, depending on your FB or manifold setup would be the major contributors. I assume you are buying the grain crushed.

I have also had screwtops layer of silt on the top of the mash when draining which casued it all to start 'walling' but a few shallow and gentle rakes (cuts) in it every now and then and she's fine. I tend to rake it from the middle out too so that any prefferential flow is kept away from the walls. Call it unnecessary but it's just what I do.

Brent

 

[BrissyBrew]

3. Recirculating using a plastic lid with lots of holes, so's not to disturb the grain bed. This distributed fine particles over the top of the grain creating an impervious layer of grey mud. Think this may have also been due to running too fast when recirculating. I now open the valve only about half for recirculation, seems to run clear more quickly.

Hi Screwtop

Your right about the grey mud on the surface, a little bit of turbulance or sprinkle type effect does slow its formation, or a little chicken scratching on the surface, a light rake.