A Guide To All-grain Brewing In A Bag

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......how long would you sudgest to do a mash for using a single infusion with BIAB? At the moment im doing 90min mashes.

Not really sure.... I would guess that 60mins would be enough. But if you are already doing 90mins why change? stick with 90mins to be on the safe side, get a few brews down the track and re-brew a recipe with only a 60min mash (everythig else the same) and see what happens. Tell me what effect it has and then we'll both know :D

Edit - PS: One more thing about BIAB. People keep saying that squeezing the bag will extract tannins. Why? Why would it? If it does, why aren't they extracted when a commercial Thin Bed Mash Filter physically compresses the grain bed in order to squeeze out residual wort? No answers for this one, just questions.
 
Great posts yet again Thirstyboy - unbiased, informative, constructive... :super:

cheers Ross

P.S. where are you based?
 
Thirsty Boy

Thanks, great post. With you all the way on "science". Funny how poeple think science is a perscriptive thing and forget the observation, learn and re-evaluate part of the cycle. Its pretty hard as a single brewer to conduct an experement that could be described as statisticaly significant so people like me rely on people like you. I was going to do a conventional dough in mash volume with my first recepie to compare but can't realy see the point. What would it prove anyway.

Finite

Don't drink it all too soon. My first AG had a similar fate you yours. What could not get any better did.

60min vs 90min. No difference with same recepie at all.

Cheers
 
3rd AG over and in the no chill Imperial IPA, feels like a baby @ 106 IBU in compared to some of the brews the nutbags on here are making. :p Started this one at 5pm this arvo so im gunna hit the hay but ive got some photos ill post tomorrow. Whole thing was smooth as and hit my temps and planned OG on the button.

I will say before I go that I might do 1 or 2 BIAB's but will be working toward a standard 3 vessle system and hopefully will have one going before I go back to uni... My reasoning is not that BIAB doesnt make good beers, it does, so dont get the wrong idea but it can be a bit of a hassle when making strong brews. I found today that 9.21kg of wet hot grist weighs alot and was a bit of a pain in the arse to move around.

The method is fantasic for someone with a small area, more standard gravity beers or smaller batches. I wouldnt be doing AG without BIAB so its has been a wonderfull stepping stone for me but I have the kegs and for the moment, the time so im looking forward to a 3 vessle setup.

Other than the main question is...can it make good beer? The answer of course is hell yes! :beerbang:
 
Great posts yet again Thirstyboy - unbiased, informative, constructive... :super:

Thanks thirstyboy , Great post..


60 mins V 90 mins use your refractometer to keep an eye on the gravity. if it stops riseing after each stir up, I call it done...

:beer:
 
Some photos from my brew day yesterday:

DCP_4867.jpg
Burnerness

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Heating sparge water

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Messuring hops

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Organised brewer is a good brewer

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Adding the bag

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Doughing in

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Stabilising mash temp, (difficult with a falty thermometer)

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Stiring the mash

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9.21kg of wet grain weighs ALOT

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The boil

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brewing is bloody hard work B)

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She be airated

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The wort

And thats it, hope the pictures help anyone who wants to try BIAB or just likes pictures. As I mentioned im working on getting my 3 vessle setup going over the next month or so. BIAB has proved it can make great beer. I have found however it gets pretty difficult when brewing high gravity beers.

Brew on,

Blake
 
Great Pics Finite.

I was going to post some photos of my new years day brew day. Taught a friend that had never brewed more than K&K to do BIAB. But.... the pictures are so similar to yours, that its hardly worth it.

You are right about high gravity beers and BIAB though. We did an IPA with 7.5kg of grain, and while it was a snap with 2 of us there, I can see it would be a bit difficult with only one.

I suppose you could always rig up a winch or something, which I realize others have done, but it sort of takes away from the simplicity and lack of equipment that is the main feature of BIAB. Or not. Depends on your situation I suppose.

Has anyone else done a BIAB with more kgs of grain than finite?? I wonder where the practical limit is going to be.
 
yeah i used a pully system (not in shot) that was attached to the pagola and it was still very very heavy. I would say for the average person 5-6kg of grain would be a managable amout...above that with one person it gets harder.
 
Finite,
great pics! i am thinking of trying BIAB, so they sure helped a lot. I am wondering whether a converted keg or pot is easier to use? Is that a nasa burner you used?
Beer looked great too
Eric
 
Some Findings from my BIAB experience so far:

Im hoping you can help me out on this one thirsty.

I have had an interesting find regarding efficiency and amount of grain. Ive done 3 BIAB brews now and each time I have used more grain the efficiency has dropped.

1st brew was a small batch of English PA (15L) and I only had 3.2kg of grain. - Efficiency into boiler was 70%
2nd brew was a porter with 5.7kg of grain. - efficiency into boiler was 65%
3rd brew was a IIPA with 9.21kg of grain. - efficiency into boiler was 60%

Now im not really sure what this could be. Its interesting because as I used more grain the amount of strike water I used (with the acception of the 1st brew) stayed the same, which means that my liquor to grist ratio lowered. Mash temp of 66c was used for all brews and mash time of 90min was also consistent across all brews.

Liquor/grain ratio was as follows:

1st brew it was 6.88L/kg - Apparent attenuation = 90.4%
2nd brew it was 5.34L/kg - Apparent attenuation (10 days) = 78.8%
3rd brew it was 3.47L/kg (a more conventional liquor to grist ratio) - Pitched today (12/01/07 but will update)

Personal taste findings:

I have personally tasted the spent grain from all the brews and found the following:

1st brew: little residual sweetness remaining in the grain, husky and bland.
2nd brew: detectable sweetness in the spent grains
3rd brew: sweetest of them all still quite allot of sweetness left in the grain.

Ive only scratched the surface in terms learning about malting, conversion, extraction etc... so I really need someone else to take my findings and make some sense out of it but my conclusion is that the more grain I use the lower my efficiency. Could it be that the rich sugars of a higher gravity beer are being contained in a more concentrated amount in the grain bag area? If so I should probably take a SG reading of my bag draining for my next brew and compare with the gravity of the wort in the kettle.

The fact of not sparging using the BIAB method has always been on my mind. From my findings so far I would (with a very limited knowledge compared to some) say that for lower gravity beers using the BIAB method produces a very good if not excellent efficiency. Pat reported an efficiency of 88.4% for an English bitter and I achieved an efficiency of 70% into boiler for my first AG. Maybe I (or someone else) could try mashing with a traditional liquor/grist ratio then steeping (dunking) the spend grain bag in another vessel with the remaining liquor to effectively sparge the bag of its remaining sugars.

Im getting the feeling that the most concentrated volume of wort is becoming trapped inside the grain bag area and not staying in the liquid. From personal observations I have noticed that there is still a quite a bit of liquor that could be strained or squeezed out of the grain bag after draining. Even last night I squeezed over 8L out and I could have very easierly extracted more. I ended up adding an extra 6L to the kettle before the boil which means that the grain was holding that much sweet wort which would usually be removed via sparging.

This is all food for thought and I think its time for another beer, (2 Nelson Sauvin's have been downed in the typing of this). At least I'm making up for Pats post quota.

Prost,
Blake :beerbang:
 
Finite,
great pics! i am thinking of trying BIAB, so they sure helped a lot. I am wondering whether a converted keg or pot is easier to use? Is that a nasa burner you used?
Beer looked great too
Eric

Pot would be easier for BIAB. I find trying to pull the bag of grain out of the neck (where I cut the top off the keg) is quite difficult if there is alot of grain, for standard gravity beers the keg is fine. That all depends of whether you plan to move on to a traditional system eventually. Personaly I have always planned on having a traditional 3 vessle system so BIAB was more of a stepping stone.

The burner is a 3 ring.
 
Finite,

Am looking at doing a BIAB in the near future with a very similar setup to yours. Can I ask what you used to hold the bag over the edge of the keg, i.e what stops it from sinking down into the kettle during mashing?

Also, can anyone describe (quickly) their bag design. I have read a lot about this, but not yet seen a closeup pic of the bag used.

Beergards,

Blackbock
 
Blackbock,

Snapped some pictures for you, and in the process found some photos I took from my first AG BIAB in which I didnt use a camping mat. Basicly I just wet the ends of the bag so it sits around the side of the kettle then put a camping mat over that then wrap with some rope, you could also do what I did for my first AG and just tie some rope around it and forget the camping mat, elastic in the top of the bag or around the side would also work, so would some okky straps.

The bag design i used is very simply a rectangle double the length of your tun + 60 cm with the width the diameter of your tun + 10cm. I made it out of muslin cloth as my local lincraft didnt have Swiss violate ivory which is what is prefered but mine drains fine and holds up very well under weight. I asked my girlfriends mother :p to stich it for me, she stiched the sides then used one of those edging thingys where it makes it neat, see the pics. I also made up a diagram showing the basic design.

BIAB.jpg
the design

stiching.jpg
The stiching (thanks karren!)

insidebag.jpg
inside the bag

longshit.jpg
long shot of whole bag

mashbagmsall.jpg
stabilising temp

smallmash.jpg
mashing, showing bag held on with rope....OH no!! 0.1c off :eek: .....ahhhh RDWHANHB B)

Hope it helps,

Prost,
Blake :chug:
 
Finite

You are totally in the grip of it are'nt you. If I had the resources of this site and I guess the internet in general when I was at uni I would be the same. About 20 yrs ago we brewed kits with sugar and lots of them (when I was at uni). Horrid stuff but within budget. It was not until a bloke bought a bottle of Micro brew into my work to convince me he was not a desperado that I got back into it. Good on you mate. Spead the word, and for one thing you will be popular.

Cheers
 
Finite,

Thanks for the observations and numbers. A couple of things that I think might go a little way to explaining your experience.

BIAB has 3 distinct features that are "unusual" It uses the full volume of liquor during the mash process resulting in a high L:G ratio, it is No-Sparge and it uses only 1 vessel in order to save space, complexity and money. Pretty much all of them would contribute to the results you have seen.

Your comment that you tasted the spent grains and noticed different levels of sweetness seems to be the key here. Its not about the mashing process, thats working fine or there wouldn't be sweetness to taste. Its about the lautering process, which in the case of BIAB means no sparge.

No sparge brewing isn't exactly unusual in its own right. Lots of people do it. Some do it because its believed that the less sparging a mash gets, the maltier and smoother the flavour of the beer. No sparging being at one end of the scale and oversparged harsh watery astringent beers at the other. Other people do it simply because it saves time and effort and just costs a few more $$ for the increased amount of grain/litre of finished beer. The no sparge method is simply to mash at a traditional L:G and at the end of the mash add all the remaining liquor required for your volumes to the mash tun, stir the bejeezuz out of it, recirc till it clears and drain to the kettle. Thats it. BIAB is different in that we dont use a HLT and therefore have nowhere to heat/store the extra liquor. So it all goes in at the start.

Most people who No-sparge get somewhere around 55-65% efficiency. When BIAB idea was first being tossed about in this thread, I suspected and I imagine that most others did as well, that this is the sort of efficiencies that we were going to see. I think that there was almost universal surprise when efficiencies of 75+ were reported from the guys who did the first batches. Using a finer crush will certainly increase efficiency and BIAB means you dont have a problem lautering finely crushed grist. So that would be a major contributing factor. Apart from that, I dont really know why BIAB seems to be more efficient than No-sparge. It shouldn't be, and yet it is. Go figure.

In no-sparge, batch sparge and BAIB, the sugars aren't gently rinsed out by a flow of water. They are bashed out into solution by a vigorous stirring, then just drained off. This is why these methods cant hope to be as efficient as a properly running fly-sparge set up. Any liquid that stays trapped in the grain, should contain the same concentration of sugar as the wort being run off. So some sugar gets left behind no matter what you do. With fly sparging, ultimately you could have it so the liquid trapped by the grain was pure water, with all the sugar rinsed out and run off. Nothing left behind. Of course, by then you would have a kettle full of tannins, but it would be 100% efficient.

Lets think about the numbers here. Take a 20 litre batch of BIAB, with 5kg of grain. Allowing for evap you want around 24 litres in the kettle. So you need to allow around 29 litres of liquor because the grain will absorb about 1litre/kg of your liquid. Near enough. So you dough in, mash for the hour, take out your bag and let it drain for a while and you hit your numbers perfectly. 24litres in the kettle. But the liquid absorbed by your grain has just as much sugar in it as the liquid in the kettle!!! So... that means that 5/24 x 100 = 21.83% of your sugar is still in the bag. Your best case scenario is 79.16% efficiency.

Do the numbers again with a 10kg grist and you get 10/24 x 100 = 41.67 % left in the bag with a maximum possible efficiency of 58.33%

If you give the bag a good squeeze (please do, I dont see ANY reason why it should extract tanins) and adjust your calculations for less absorbtion by the grain; it will improve the numbers, but it still wont stop the incremental decrease in efficiency as the amount of grain goes up.

You mentioned that you thought that the concentration of sugr in the grain bag area might be higher than the concentration of the rest of the wort. If this were so it would certainly make the situation worse. And looking at your grain bag set up, I can see that it might happen to you. Your bag seems to be distinctly away from the edges of your pot. This means that there are inded two seperate zones in your mash. In the bag and out of the bag. In his guide, Pistol Patch reccomends that you make your bag big enough to "line" your pot. Mine is set up that way, and while there is a bit of floating about, the entire volume of liquid is in the In the bag zone, only the liquid undeneath the rack I have to keep the bag away from the flame is in the Out of the bag zone. I stir the absolute buggery (without splashing!) out of the whole thing during the mash, and ESPECIALLY just before removing the bag, precisely to make sure that the concentration of sugar is evenly spread.

So...... The whole increase in grain bill = decrease in efficiency thing is something you are going to have to learn to live with I'm afraid. Even after you make your planned move to a 3 vessle system, if you are going to No-sparge or Batch sparge, it will still happen.

Things that will improve your efficiency for now are:

A looser fit for your grain bag
Vigorous stirring before pulling the bag
Squeeze that bag (I'd calculate for only 0.6litres/kg absorbtion and see how your volumes work out)
Finer Crush (crush till you're scared!)

Your concern about the no-sparging and the idea about dunking the bag has lead me to an epiphany. So I'm going to end this post with the hope that I have maybe helped a bit and ask you to see the next post for my ultimate solution to all the woes and worries of BIAB (well maybe)

I gotta learn to type faster

Thirsty
 
Normal Mash Volume, No extra Vessle, Batch Sparged ---- BIAB

Why BIAB? - Save Space (only one vessle), Save Money (No need to buy/build a mash tun and HLT), Save Time and complexity (no inconvenient, complex Vorlauf - Sparge rigmarole)

Why not BIAB? - Extreme Liquor to Grist ratio (all sorts of potential conversion and fermentbility issues) Poor Efficiency (no sparging means potentially poor extraction rates, with very low efficiencies wtih large grain bills)

OK, so what if we can retain most of the whys of BIAB, but remove the worst of the why nots? How about this?

What most of us have been forgetting is that BIAB doesn't use just one vessle, it uses 2 !! Unless you are fermenting in your kettle at any rate. You have already paid for your fermentor; and it already takes up space. So lets use that puppy to solve our problems. Here's how.
  • In your kettle heat up a bit less than the total amount of liquor needed to near boiling. Drain 2/3rds or so into your fermentor.
  • Wrap fermentor up in some blankets so that it wont cool down too much during the mash.
  • Add some cold water to your kettle, juggle till you have the right volume for a "normal" Liquor to Grist ratio at dough in; and your temp is either at or lower than needed for strike. Heat up if required
  • Stick in your bag and dough in. Mash as you normally would.
  • At the end of your mash, check the temp of the water in your fermentor. Having started at near boiling, hopefully it will still be hot enough to sparge with.
  • Pull your bag out of the pot, squeeze/drain as per normal.
  • Check your kettle volume.
  • If needed, add cold water to the fermentor to cool down to sparge temps.
  • Drain water out of fermentor until the volume that remains is equal to the amount that needs to be added to your kettle to reach correct pre-boil volume.
  • Grab your Grain Bag, and drop it into the Fermentor. Give the grain a good stirring around and maybe leave it for 5 minutes before stirring again
  • Pull bag out of fermentor. Drain/squeeze as before. You just did a BIAB batch sparge.
  • Pour the quasi second runnings into your kettle to achieve proper pre-boill volume
  • Proceed with your boil as per normal
There you go. Now we are mashing at a normal L:G ratio and we get to sparge as well. So the why nots are pretty much taken care of. We didn't have to buy any extra gear over Full Volume No sparge BIAB and although its a little bit more complex, its not a lot. You just need to juggle the volumes and temps a bit. Of course if you are lazy, you could still just skip the sparging bit and just top your kettle up to pre-boil volume before you pull the bag.

Whaddayareckon?

Thirsty
 
Whaddayareckon?
Very interesting Idea but I'd want to hear more about the mircobiological side of things. I'm sure I've read somewhere before that you shouldnt put cracked grain in your fermenter as it contains nasty stuff (lacto-something-or-other?) thats almost impossible to kill without a good boil. I think in context the thread was saying dont use your fermenter to catch whats coming out of your grain mill because you wont be able to use it as a fermenter again, but I'm not sure I'd be putting unboiled wort in a fermenter either.

unrelated to that though, I'm giving BIAB another shot. I got my kettle and 5 kg of grains on wednesday so I can finally try a full volume boil. I was planning on using a BIAB style bag in my mash tun instead of mucking about with an easy hooker, but I didnt get around to replacing the tap on the cooler yet so I'm just going to do it the BIAB way instead. first AG here I come
 

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