# Brew shed flooring



## OneEye (1/4/16)

So I've been given the go-ahead to build a garden shed in the back, with swmbo knowing full well it will be more brew shed than anything else. I'm building it myself with my old man so have the luxury of customising it a bit. First thing to consider is the flooring. I can't do a concrete slab so it will be on joists and bearers (extension of a deck) given the inevitable spillages and moisture... What should I consider for flooring? I was thinking fibro cement sheeting, or would yellow tongue with a vinyl covering suffice?


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## wide eyed and legless (1/4/16)

I would go with the chipboard flooring.


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## droid (1/4/16)

if you do it deck style you could just keep the wood sealed and the gaps would allow it to breathe and dry
if you don't use a deck style then a collection area that can subsequently drain for spillages and also to hose down is something to think about
obviously concrete with bundage and a slope to a drain is probably the best so yeah

i guess you could treat some pine and then cover it with vinyl - again make it slope to somewhere where the water/liquid can drain if poss

good luck - and pics or it didn't happen


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## Mardoo (1/4/16)

I like the decking idea. You could do the decking in your wet area and chipboard for the rest. You'd have to sort out the under-floor drainage though.


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## S.E (1/4/16)

[SIZE=11pt]Could you not do a suspended concrete slab on its own footings, does it need to be an extension of the deck? If so are you sure the existing deck footings can take the extra load of a shed/brewery? [/SIZE]


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## OneEye (1/4/16)

Going in this corner... Already have the foundation down. Will be running some pipes and electrical from the bottom. Another reason I wanted to avoid concrete. Treated pine decking sounds like a good idea


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## wide eyed and legless (1/4/16)

The chipboard flooring is already treated, easy to lay and you won't be getting any wee beasties getting in through any gaps, depends on how much spillage you think you might get.


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

Yep. Chipboard sealed with an epoxy to make it water proof


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> Yep. Chipboard. You want the green tobuen not the yellow sealed with an epoxy to make it extra water proof


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## OneEye (1/4/16)

You mean sealed in the tongue and groove join stu?


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## OneEye (1/4/16)

Also, I anticipate much spillage BUT I have been known to do stupid things like fill the kettle/mash tun/fermenter with the tap open


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

No, just painted on the floor surface


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## klangers (1/4/16)

Do it pro and do a chip board floor, a waterproof membrane (epoxy as per stu) and then tile it on top.

You can do without the tiles, but it will look rather snazzy.

Wood, unless sealed, will absorb yeasties and you can easily infect an entire brewery this way.


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## Mardoo (1/4/16)

That's a great point klangers.


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## Mikeyr (1/4/16)

A slightly more expensive alternative would be a composite plastic wood decking material. Will not absorb liquids and are pretty robust vs chemicals. Don't need to reseal and you can get in wider boards. Often "end of run" specials on ebay.

One benefit will be that it allows airflow under the floor and if you want to channel out spills / water you could fit up some hard plastic under the tiles and create a sump. 

Second different option is rubber flooring, as used in boats, hospitals, gyms etc. You can buy in a roll and lay over a flat surface. It's totally chem resistant, you could PBW it to really clean it. example: 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RUBBER-ROLL-FLOORING-BLUE-FLECK-8MM-X-1M-PREMIUM-GRADE-RUBBER-FLOORING-/171135387375?hash=item27d876c6ef:g:IV8AAOxy5rpSQm-L

Personally i think wet area chipboard plus the hassle of having to properly seal, which is at least 3 coats of a good membrane and then a surface layer is a lot more work.


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

+1 for tiles.

Go to a tile ship and just get the cheapest ones they have. You might get some clearance stock pretty cheap.. Get he big 450x450 ones, easier to lay. Get enough to go 1/2 - 1 tile up the wall.


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

Mikeyr said:


> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RUBBER-ROLL-FLOORING-BLUE-FLECK-8MM-X-1M-PREMIUM-GRADE-RUBBER-FLOORING-/171135387375?hash=item27d876c6ef:g:IV8AAOxy5rpSQm-L
> 
> Personally i think wet area chipboard plus the hassle of having to properly seal, which is at least 3 coats of a good membrane and then a surface layer is a lot more work.


That stuff is awesome, but, you do need the hot tool to seal up the corner joints properly or it will leak


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## Dave70 (1/4/16)

The right way to floor a wet area is compressed fibro and avoid any fretting about rotting or leaks. Basically liquid nail the joists, lay it and its job done. If you're extra keen, Fibre Teks make short work of screwing down.
Finish it off with some textured paving paint so you don't slip arse over tip when you flood the joint after leaving the fermenter tap open and you're good to go.


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## Benn (1/4/16)

Agree with the above.
James Hardie 'Scyon Secura' 
Lighter than compressed sheet, Installs similar to yellow tongue, Can be sealed,painted,tiled,whatever. Designed for your intended application. priced OK as well.
I use it in favor of yellow tongue+tile underlay in wet areas for extra piece of mind should a leak occur.


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

Hell, just go to your local sheet metal guy and get a drop in stainless tub the full size of the floor with 100mm sides. and sit that on the floor.


Ok it may not be cheep, but it will be bulletproof and never leak, but you would need some rubber non slip mats


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## Mardoo (1/4/16)

Would galv do?


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## Dave70 (1/4/16)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> Hell, just go to your local sheet metal guy and get a drop in stainless tub the full size of the floor with 100mm sides. and sit that on the floor.
> 
> 
> *Ok it may not be cheep*, but it will be bulletproof and never leak, but you would need some rubber non slip mats


Dam right fella. 

We've supplied the odd flashing and rolled section in stainless. Roughly six times the cost of gal.

Sure look the business though, Check out this guys setup.


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

Mardoo said:


> Would galv do?


Yep, as long as you didnt spill acid on it.....


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

Dave70 said:


> Sure look the business though, Check out this guys setup.


I know what sort of room that is h34r:


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## droid (1/4/16)

Dave70 said:


> Dam right fella.
> 
> We've supplied the odd flashing and rolled section in stainless. Roughly six times the cost of gal.
> 
> Sure look the business though, Check out this guys setup.


he makes a stiff beer that fella


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## Camo6 (1/4/16)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> I know what sort of room that is h34r:


Liposuction clinic yeah?


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/4/16)

Camo6 said:


> Liposuction clinic yeah?


Yep.


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## lost at sea (1/4/16)

Benn said:


> Agree with the above.
> James Hardie 'Scyon Secura'
> Lighter than compressed sheet, Installs similar to yellow tongue, Can be sealed,painted,tiled,whatever. Designed for your intended application. priced OK as well.
> I use it in favor of yellow tongue+tile underlay in wet areas for extra piece of mind should a leak occur.



+1 for sycon (or 15mm compressed sheeting if want to lift heavy stuff.) totally waterproof and easy to lay.. then lay whatever covering you feel like over the top.
we built our new bathroom on compressed (barstard to cut). and our back tiled entertaining deck on sycon,
my wife is a chippy and she says no way to chipboard/resin, too much effort when there are better products on the market.


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## Wardcliff (1/4/16)




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## droid (1/4/16)

Oh


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## spog (1/4/16)

lost at sea said:


> +1 for sycon (or 15mm compressed sheeting if want to lift heavy stuff.) totally waterproof and easy to lay.. then lay whatever covering you feel like over the top.
> we built our new bathroom on compressed (barstard to cut). and our back tiled entertaining deck on sycon,
> my wife is a chippy and she says no way to chipboard/resin, too much effort when there are better products on the market.


Good advice from the above and Benn,Scyon is about $110:00 per 450x 2700 mm sheet ( ball park price ). You can cut it using a standard circular saw and blade but it gates messy.
Grab a manufacturers installation sheet and go for it , bung a floor trap in the middle for major spills then slap some cheap vinyl on the floor for style,or tile if your keen.
I do not recommend using " chipboard " flooring as in this application it would be a waste of money and cause too much upset down the track.
A. You would need to seal both faces to stop moisture and shite becoming ingrained in the flooring. Don't want that in the brewery.
B. You would need at least 150 mm clearance above the ground for air flow underneath to minimise mould and rot, 300mm would be much better but then you would need to fit slats around the outside for appearance and that adds $.
C. I bloody hate particle board flooring.
D. Your choice

Cheers....spog....


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## niftinev (1/4/16)

Wouldn't touch chipboard shit with a barge pole, you will hate it and be replacing it down the track,
Use compressed sheeting and epoxy, tile or vinyl over it.
Epoxy is what i would use and should easily last 10+ years and quite cost effective


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## Mardoo (1/4/16)

Awesome thread. Even though I didn't ask the question this sucker is solidly in the files. Cheer guys


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## Yob (1/4/16)

can confirm that putting some thoughts into drainage is a good idea.

There is a product out there that is spray on rubber, great for sealing corners and or anything, all the timber in my wet area got a can or two and its brilliant stuff.

Rust-oleum Leak Seal - Flexible rubber coating


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## Drick (1/4/16)

I used to do water proofing on floors for food preparation, hospitals, laboratory, etc.. 
I'd recommend you use a self leveling high build two pack epoxy. If you have some spare funds you can also get adhesive coving for around the walls and a drain for the middle of the floor. That way your work area will be completely "tanked" and and spills and normal brewing mess is simple to wash into the drain (or brush up). 
Just make sure you seal all gaps in the floor before hand or half your epoxy floor will pour through the gaps. 
Good luck.


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## wynnum1 (2/4/16)

If the shed is built over the ground is there any requirement to stop creating areas where rats can thrive .


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## wide eyed and legless (2/4/16)

Yep don't spill any wort.
Maybe a better idea if he is going to be spilling as much as people imagine he will be doing, is to brew on the deck and make a cool room of what was to be the shed.


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## OneEye (2/4/16)

Thanks for all the idea guys. Am definitely considering a floor drain. I'm plumbing in a sink so I might as well... Just wasn't sure what flooring option I'd end up going for. In regards to the rats or insects, I'm filling in the frame with crushed rock. Haven't got loads to spend on this so I'm thinking the compressed sheet with some vinyl for now, then I can look at tiling it later.


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## wynnum1 (2/4/16)

Compressed sheeting be careful if cutting the dust can be a health hazard.


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## Coalminer (2/4/16)

wynnum1 said:


> Compressed sheeting be careful if cutting the dust can be a health hazard.


It is worthwhile to hire a wet cutting saw from a hire company if your planning on a long healthy life


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## spog (2/4/16)

OneEye said:


> Thanks for all the idea guys. Am definitely considering a floor drain. I'm plumbing in a sink so I might as well... Just wasn't sure what flooring option I'd end up going for. In regards to the rats or insects, I'm filling in the frame with crushed rock. Haven't got loads to spend on this so I'm thinking the compressed sheet with some vinyl for now, then I can look at tiling it later.


You could have a look on building sites or suppliers yards for the pallets the Scyon comes on.
They have a sheet nailed on them , you may get lucky in scoring some for nicks as you may be doing them a favour by taking the whole pallet.
That's how I got 2 sheets to use for my GrandDaughters cubby house,I bogged the wholes crash patch and painted it to seal.


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## Ducatiboy stu (2/4/16)

Yob said:


> can confirm that putting some thoughts into drainage is a good idea.


*That is the FIRST thing to do before you worry about finishing the floor*

Use a center drain and make sure you have fall in to the drain, otherwise it is just a hole in the floor

So many people forget to get the fall of the floor right before adding a drain


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## Dave70 (2/4/16)

OneEye said:


> Thanks for all the idea guys. Am definitely considering a floor drain. I'm plumbing in a sink so I might as well... Just wasn't sure what flooring option I'd end up going for. In regards to the rats or insects, I'm filling in the frame with crushed rock. Haven't got loads to spend on this so I'm thinking the compressed sheet with some vinyl for now, then I can look at tiling it later.


Whatever you decide on, install one of these. Its called a leak control flange or puddle flange. Countersink the flange bit flush into the flooring with a 4'' grinder, slap on some silicone and fix it with appropriate countersunk screws. 
It lets you adjust the height of the waste grate to suit the finished floor and you can glue your pipe or four way junction straight in from underneath. Piece of piss.










If you're plumbing in a sink, consider going out through the wall after the trap or for a neater job, down through the frame. Saves another penetration in the floor and frees up a little space.One more thing, I'd recommend leaving the floor waste 'dry' - throwing a 90 deg bend off the bottom and exiting the pipe over the garden or somewhere suitable with a vermin flap on the end. Its just easier, and quite legal.


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## Ducatiboy stu (2/4/16)

Dave70 said:


> If you're plumbing in a sink, consider going out through the wall after the trap or for a neater job, down through the frame. Saves another penetration in the floor and frees up a little space.


Its suprising just how much easier life is when you do that so you dont have a pipe running thru your under sink space


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## spog (2/4/16)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> *That is the FIRST thing to do before you worry about finishing the floor*
> 
> Use a center drain and make sure you have fall in to the drain, otherwise it is just a hole in the floor
> 
> So many people forget to get the fall of the floor right before adding a drain


Getting fall to the drain and on a budget won't happen given the OPs posts.
Getting fall in the floor will require topping = $, a simple floor drain using what Dave 70 has suggested will do fine as its basically for major spills.
Old towels etc during brewing/ cleaning will do the job and they're cheap.


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## Ducatiboy stu (2/4/16)

spog said:


> Getting fall in the floor will require topping = $,


Not if you build it into the floor


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## BEERAHOLIC (7/8/16)

Come on think about it, look at the houses being built these days, they wack down the flooring down let it sit in the elements until the lazy arsed roofer comes around to try and cover it, then you wait until the spoon fed bricky decides ok you talked me into it i'll put the walls up next week ( which is code for when there is no surf). Put down the cheapest flooring you can get you hands on, seal it with what ever takes your fancy and get on with the job. Sure you will get some water on the floor but its not like a shower recess where it gets flooded every day. Ive just noticed the date that you posted this inquiry, if you hav'nt finished this project and not into your 10th brew save your money and buy a carton.


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## Camo6 (8/8/16)

Whoa, whoa. We're not just building a house to live in for 30 years. He's building a BREW house. These things take time and thought. I'd be a bit disappointed if he wasn't still researching his options.


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## BEERAHOLIC (11/8/16)

That's right we are not building a house to last 30 years, sorry if I sounded abrupt, but put the floor down and seal it and get on with it. the most important and the hardest part is getting the perfect brew.


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## Black Devil Dog (11/8/16)

OneEye said:


> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1459468094.862383.jpg


That sub floor is dangerously undersized, you should probably only allow your cat to walk on it. 

There is no way that will safely support anything like a few adult males at one time, hope you changed your mind.


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