# Borret's Mill



## Borret (28/3/05)

Hey All.

Just thought I'd post some photo's of my mill that I have finally completed this weekend after languishing amongst other projects for a few months. Must say I'm pretty proud of it. It's come up nice. 

60mm dia x 200 long knurled stainless rollers. Each on sealed bearings housed in seperate mounting blocks so it's fully adjustable but has no significant gaps for grain to fall through. 



All held together by concieled socket headed cap screws in the aluminium extrusion housing. Input shaft is necket down to 3/8" to power by a drill at the moment (and the shaft is tapped up the guts so I can fit the hand crand I made to it too) but will possibly upgrade to v belt off a motor down the track.



Next up is the hopper to be made from polycarbonate sheet in the next week or so. Have already put mounting bracket onto the frame for this to sit on.

Whatdya think guys and gals. Also what sort of volumetric capacity (not grain weight) do others find handy for the hopper size?

Borret :beerbang:


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## dicko (28/3/05)

Hi Borret,
Welcome to AHB.
Looks good mate.
How does the gap adjust?
Cheers


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## Borret (28/3/05)

Hey Dicko,

The holes you can see on the second photo are access points to the socket headed cap screws that clamp the blocks to the extrusion (the M8 screw heads run in the extrusion and the blocks have 2 threaded holes either side of the ball bearing. ) The edge of the blocks are pretty much flush with the edge of the rollers.

To adjust just loosen the screws on the idle roller on both sides with an allen key, set the gap with a feeler guage and clamp the blocks up again. The brackets for the hopper also have elongated holes so it allows for the adjustment.
Does that make sense. I can pull it apart and take more photo's if you realy wan't to see. ( but I'd rather not).

Thanks for the welcome. 

Borret


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## dicko (29/3/05)

Borret,

Dont pull it apart mate, I thought the adjustment would be along those lines.
Looks like a top job... post some more pics when it is finished.

Cheers


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## Doc (29/3/05)

Looks like a great job there Borret. Obviously very hand with the tools.
As for volume in the hopper my Valley holds about 2.5-3kg of grain which would be approximately 5 litres in volume.
I'd like it to hold more and if I was building one I'd go for double if possible.

HTH,
Doc


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## Borret (6/4/05)

Hey All,

An update on my mill. The hopper is done and the mill tidied up a bit. After the docs advice I decided to double it and then add some safety margin so I will never wish I had gone bigger. So that's a good 14 litres folks which should keep me happy for a long time.
The mill frame has been trimmed down and the extrusion plugged with some end caps to tidy it up.


The hopper itself is made from lexan and is held together by M3 countersunk stainless socket heads into the drilled and tapped lexan.


Hopper is held to the frame with more stainless socket heads, this time M5 into self clinching nuts that are pressed into the lexan.


Finally the fit has come up better than I expected. It hugs the rollers nicely without any interference. 



All in all I'm stoked with the results. Only thing I might play with now is crank (it's a bit ugly) and perhaps a frame rather than the bucket it will now sit on.

Cheers 

Borret.


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## jgriffin (6/4/05)

Goddam that looks horny.


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## voota (6/4/05)

jgriffin said:


> Goddam that looks horny.
> [post="53182"][/post]​




If i were a chick, i'd be wet in my jocks. That thing is beaut.


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## jayse (6/4/05)

Borret said:


> snipped>>
> Must say I'm pretty proud of it. It's come up nice.
> 
> 
> [post="51277"][/post]​



Its awesome mate, top work.



jgriffin said:


> Goddam that looks horny.
> [post="53182"][/post]​



Maybe this belongs in the brewers porn forum  


Jayse


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## wee stu (6/4/05)

Borret said:


> Hey All,
> 
> Hopper is held to the frame with more stainless socket heads, this time M5 into self clinching nuts that are pressed into the lexan[post="53175"][/post]​



Like much of this thread, I have no idea what this sentence means. 
Strangely, it does sound kind of stimulating!

awrabest

stu

in solidarity with hand tool challenged brewers everywhere!


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## Ross (6/4/05)

I'm in total awe borret - fantastic job..... :super:


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## barfridge (6/4/05)

I'll join stu in the corner.

We'll just drink the beer, thanks :beer:


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## Kai (6/4/05)

I'd say I'm in love, but I'm a little worried by the concept of self clinching nuts.


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## AndrewQLD (7/4/05)

Great job! I love it.
What did you use to glue the perspex together and where did you get it from???

Andrew


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## sosman (7/4/05)

That is a very cool looking mill indeed.


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## Borret (7/4/05)

Andrew,

To recap the above post I used Lexan (polycarbonate) instead of Perspex (acrylic) for the hopper. It is a lot tougher and less brittle. I did not glue it instead I drilled and tapped (cut a thread ) into the edge and countersunk holes in side plates to take the M3 countersunk socket heads. This way if some gremlins start growing in the joints for some reason then I can easy pull it apart and wash it. 
It was all cut with a hand saw and the edges sanded to a fine finish over a few hrs.
Where to get it. This came from place called specialised wholesale in Newcastle but I believe Cadillac plastic would stock it too (they carry all sorts of engineering plastics) If you did want to glue it Im sure the plastic wholesaler can recommend the right stuff to you. I have used solvent based adhesives in the past on plastic but cant remember the name. I dont believe they would give the same strength as the mechanical fasteners I went for, particularly in shear 
Now that you mention it I actually got the Lexan for free. They were off cuts from a job my mate was working on a year or so ago and he had lying in his metal rack. Same goes for the round bar I used for the rollers. The rest was off cuts and scrap from work. In fact the whole mill cost me a total of 28 bucks (for the bearings) and a few beers to those involved in the rest. Good investment I say!

Cheers

Borret


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## Smeagol (11/4/05)

Looks to me like a bit of a rush job.
You clearly haven't taken the time to think about what you're doing. The result is something that looks like a 4 year old has built with a mechano set.  

What do you do for a crust Borrat?


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## Hoops (12/4/05)

Gad damn that thing is turning me on :wub: 
I'll have to get the guys at work to look at that and work something out.

Well done on the mill,and if I ever get close to making one i will re-read the thread and decypher all the specs.
Top stuff Borret

Hoops


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## Borret (15/4/05)

Hey guys,

Sorry to bore you all with more photo's ,but I have upgraded my crank handle to something a little prettier (the downfall of being an industrial designer). So here's the shots. Once again there is lexan and alloy and believe me it's strong enough.
Proof will be in the pudding. Doing my first PM in the morning and it's a weisbier.

Cheers

Borret


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## Kai (15/4/05)

Bore us? You've got me breathing heavy. 
How much is this thing costing you? You could almost go into business with a mill that sexy.


You _sure_ that handle's strong enough? How's the flex?


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## Borret (15/4/05)

Yep there is some flex but none in the direction of the load. If it does fail I will go for for An aluminium replacement for the lexan bit. Or another lexan rib at the back...that would be nice....I could use more countersunk screws. 2 deep breaths. Thinking........

Cost...as I said still 28 bucks and what ever the countersunk screw are that I had lying around. But to build it without donations I'd be into hundreds.

Borret


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## Kai (15/4/05)

I missed the cost earlier, sorry.

I was asking about flex because I imagine if the operator has a poor rotating motion and/or the mill jammed or blocked up a little, any movement that was not perfectly in sync with the proper direction of motion might twist it and make it snap. But, you probably know more about it than me so I'll shut up now.


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## Borret (15/4/05)

Now your teasing. Lexan isn't brittle like perspx. You can fold the stuff without heating it and it doesn't shatter. 
You can bend it back to pouch the mill of you push hard enough. I may end up being wrong but it will be a simple upgrade. It looks nice for now. 
My 2 yr old son is obsessed with it. The fact that he can flick the handle and the inertia of the roller makes it keep ticking over slowly for ten or so turns keeps him amused for ages.

Borret.

Borret


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## Doc (15/4/05)

You don't work for Apple Computers design department do you?
Top work. Very eye pleasing.

Doc


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## Kai (15/4/05)

Doc said:


> You don't work for Apple Computers design department do you?



Yes, it pretty much is the Apple of the mill world.

Sorry borret, I knew nothing about this lexan stuff. All I know is beer and cheese.


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## pint of lager (15/4/05)

Borret, I hope the youngster cannout reach the rollers, or you better work out how to dismantle it quick fast.


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## Borret (15/4/05)

No to apple computers, but yes to networking gear.

POL- Fear not-The son can only touch the grain shrine under supervision.

Kai- do you build cheeses too? I helped a guy build a cheese press once. It was a guy nicked Wasabi from this forum. He's now moved from where I work to an education in fermentation. I've been temped to try making some soft cheeses.

Borret


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## Kai (15/4/05)

Yep, I build cheeses borret.


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## Borret (28/4/05)

Hey folks,

Have finished the upgrade on my crank. Now the Lexan is backed by a nice piece of 4mm high tensile aluminium alloy. All signs of twist have gone and it's much easier to crank now- no tight gripping to keep the handle straight. (which will make you happy Kai, I know) May not be quite as pretty as the clear crank but is a happier thing in general. 
Also have made the hand piece so it swivels which also makes for a much nicer action. 
I might even engrave the name of my brewery behind the Lexan sometime as it could look nice, but I'm still refining my logo. Name is sorted though.

Cheers
Borret


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## Darren (28/4/05)

Borret,
That is the nicest looking mill I have ever seen.
Just made a mess of the keyboard.
( I think i may have one too many barleywines tonight)


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## Pumpy (28/4/05)

Thats a real mill Borret ,bet with a bit of Huffy Puffy you can crush 5kg in 5 minutes .
I can appreciate a lotta luv went into that one !!!

Pumpy


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## warrenlw63 (28/4/05)

Borret,

When do you start taking orders? I'll have one.  

Warren -


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## GOLIATH (29/4/05)

That's an outstanding project and a fabulous looking mill.
As an industrial designer surely you would know someone that could produce it!
A good Aussie mill at last!

Can you tell us what size the rollers are? Also, Could the design be modified for a 100 or 125ml roller so that they could be smooth instead of knurled that way you could dispense with the difficult bit of knurling rollers.

Perhaps you could make a set of plans and specs that people could buy from you for say 5-10 bucks.

Well done
Regards
Dave


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## big d (29/4/05)

very nice job borret but can it crush.?
has it had the trial run yet.


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## Pumpy (29/4/05)

It took me an hour to crush the first 5KG when I made my mill I was heartbroken it had the wrong knurl on nearlty jumped off the Harbour bridge,I spent 4 hours putting a cross hatch knurl on the next day the difference, Phew it sucked it in . I was so happy I drank a lot of beer that night .he! he! .

I am not very good with making things but you soon learn when the pressures on .

I rushed down to my grain store the next day and asked for a 25 kg bag of whole grain pale malt $1.80 kg I felt like a real brewer ,I thought now I am in the big league .

Pumpy


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## Borret (29/4/05)

Hey Guy's

Thanks for the feed back. Yep sure has had it's virgin crush. I did a partial wheat beer 2 weeks ago which I did mention and posted some photo's under the thread I did on the mini lauter tun. I did take a photo of the first go on the dya but it did not turn out so good so I never posted it. (sorry no pics of the crush perhaps next time. But here it is for what it's worth.

As you can see I still need to make a stand but the crate worked well enough the first go. Also youcan see the 2 kilo's barely made a dint in the size of the hopper.

Pumpy, I'm with you on the first grind. Had read it should be about 0.9 gap at which I could not even get it to turn (larger dia rollers means more pinch surface area and bigger load). Wondered what I had done wrong. Had that real bad feeling that you get specially when it was surposed to go so smoothly and it didn't. Anyway opened it up to about 1.5 and it hooked through but as I was only testing at this gap I only nipped up the adjustment screw which was not enough. It slipped open to about 2mm at which point Icould not get the allen key back in to loosen it off and reset it. So I felt under pressure so went on and did 2 runs at approx 2mm. The crush turned out excellent. Nice intact husks and small pieces of kernal. I am now going to make the adjustment holes bigger to save having to hammer the bearing blocks back into place in future!!!! I swear the 2kg went through in under a minute though. :super: 

To the plans and production. I don't think it is reall a marketable product when competing with the few on the market already. The materials I used were all 1 off offcuts - I would not have liked to buy them. :excl: Most of basics I accumulated from other design anyway.
*However !!!!* I had contemplated 3D modelling it up and doing some basic engineering drawings and making it free of charge on this site if anyone wanted a crack at it. The design is fairly simple and I even made a simple jig up so no 4 jaw chuck was neccesary for the bearing blocks. Perhaps I could do it and all dontaions made for dwonloading the plans could be forwarded to Dane to help support this site (and if dane for some crazy reason made a fortune then maybe I can get a few kick backs(I'd love a shirt)). I would only bother doing the work it if people think it would be worth my while. What do you think? Might take a few weeks of free evenings to model up but that's cool. It's a worthy cause. 

Dave- The rollers are 60mm dia. x 200 long. I don't think you would want to go much bigger. A) the load you encounter because of the increased surface area would make it much harder to crank and B) Double the diameter and you make the volume x4. Thats a lot of metal particularly if it's stainless. 4 times the weight means you need a crane to pick it up and also 4 x the $$$. for the stock. Nurling is not a hard process anyway. Much less time spent to put a diamond knurl on than to turn a 120mm dia bar down to a input 12mm shaft!

Anyway. I'll wait to hear the verdict. No promises just yet.

Cheers

Borret


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## Tony (29/4/05)

Mate that is a neat looking piece of gear. Very nice work.

I was eying off some 4" dia (thats 100mm) ss shaft for sone smooth rollers the other day and was thinking of building a "megga mill"

4" dia and 8 to 10 inches long rollers........ mmmmmmm do you think it might be overkill or just a wonderfull thing to make for the hell of it  

All you need now is a motor.

I have a 240 v 2 speed (1000 and 1500 rpm) 0.37kw motor. It only JUST does the job and a 0.5KW would be a better investment.

I made mine like you, ofcuts, leftovers and bits and pieces and my grand total with electric motor was about $76 i think.

Cheap at half the price.

Mine cracks 6kg in 50 seconds at 0.9mm gap.

I mix in 50 to 100mls of water to the dry grain and let it sit for 15 min. Ray daniels recomends 2% of grain weight. It helps keep the husks completly whole and give a fine crush for extra efficiency.

I tried cracking at a wider gap with 2 runs and found the husks got busted up a bit.

I have found that when the husks get broken up the beer is not as smooth, so the water adition to soften the husks works well. I crack 10 min before i mash so the moisture is not a problem, its going into water anyway.
I built a hopper to hold 12 kg of grain as when the keg brewery (in construction now h34r: ) is done i can brew 50 liter batches and only have to fill the hopper up and flick the switch.

The big roller mill was great when i built it but the motor makes it soooooooooooo much better. You get a cheeky grin like the joker as it chews up the grain with no effort at all.

Life is great when you own a big mill hey B) 

cheers :super:


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## spog (29/4/05)

borret, dont hold back mate can you give us all the plans for this little baby!


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## Borret (30/4/05)

So do I have any other interest in plans or shouldn't I bother? <_< Does anyone else want to have a serious crack at building one or using it for ideas? I don't mind modelling it up but won't worry about it if no one wants it.

Borret :blink:


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## sosman (30/4/05)

I think mine is set to 0.9mm but there is no knurling on my rollers, instead it uses o-rings to drive the passive roller.


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## Hopeye (30/4/05)

Hey Borret,
I need to build a grain mill and your's is sooooo sexy...... Though, 3d modelling is a bit of overkill. I'd be happy with some simple 2d plans.

Cheers,
David


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## Borret (30/4/05)

3d modelling is easier than drafting and the drawing are basically automatically produced from the model. Too easy!

Borret


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## jgriffin (30/4/05)

Tony said:


> I mix in 50 to 100mls of water to the dry grain and let it sit for 15 min. Ray daniels recomends 2% of grain weight. It helps keep the husks completly whole and give a fine crush for extra efficiency.
> 
> 
> [post="56790"][/post]​



Stupid question, but how do you manage to distribute 100ml through several kilo's of grain evenly?


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## Pumpy (30/4/05)

A hand spry gun on mist !!!!

Pumpy


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## Tony (30/4/05)

Easy.

I just put the dry grain in a large (19liter) pot and 3/4 fill a small baby food bottle with tap water. I just pour it over the top and then miz it in with my hands by turning the grain over from the bottom th the top.

It mixes eavenly, you wouldn't believe it but it does. I put the lid on the pot and let stand for 15 min to 1/2 hr.

I then switch on the mill, pour in the grain and away she goes.

It doesnt make the grain "wet" It just gives a damp enviroment to soften the husks. I still get dust out of my mill (going to enclose it next to stop the white haze thet settles on the cars in the garage) and have been getting 75 to 80% efficiency.

Cheers.

Hey borret, i have had a lot of inquiries about building mills for people and drawing up plans. Even had an offer to make them on a comercial scale but like you, i dont have the time.

Maybe we should draw up some plans and put them on a post so people can have a go at building on themselves. I looked at lots of mills on the met and used features from lots and some of my own ideas to build mine. Im sure you did the same.

I think everyone who has a home made big roller mill should publish some basic plans and/or some detailed pictures to help those who dont have the technical knowhow (its allright for us who work in industry with engineering expertise).

What do you think. I could make a basic drawing of my rollers etc in a word doc. Will they work?


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## sosman (30/4/05)

Tony said:


> I think everyone who has a home made big roller mill should publish some basic plans and/or some detailed pictures to help those who dont have the technical knowhow (its allright for us who work in industry with engineering expertise).
> [post="56900"][/post]​


You mean like this:

http://brewiki.org/RollerMill


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## Pumpy (30/4/05)

That Brewiki is an excellent site Pumpy


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## Borret (30/4/05)

I have made a little progress so far.



A little more time should bring it up nicely. (including colour) When and if I do some plans I might convert to pdf so anyone can print it.

I must agree with Pumpy. Brewiki is a top site. 'Well done' on it. :super: 

Cheers 

Borret :blink:


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## big d (30/4/05)

a few dimensions and your cooking borret


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## Pumpy (1/5/05)

The Pumpy's Mill pales into insignificance after Borrets & Tonys but it does a great job .

Pumpy


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## Borret (1/5/05)

I now have the complete virtual mill. h34r: Just need me some virtual grain <_< and we're laughin'.

Borret :blink:


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## Borret (1/5/05)

Sorry can't help myself. Now with Branding

....

Borret :blink:


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## Ross (2/5/05)

Jeeez.... That is sooo damn sexy; can't look at my mill straight in the eye anymore...


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## big d (2/5/05)

looking real good borret.
this has inspired me to spruce up the bc by making a large lexan hopper.

cheers
big d


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## Pumpy (2/5/05)

I do have my grain mill design tied up with patents and there are some similarities with mine I may be placing a law suite against the copyright breaches 

Pumpy mill corperation est. last year


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## Borret (2/5/05)

Sorry, Crazy Eyes Brewery :blink: (patent holder of the Gristinator) did do a patent search before it commenced it's extensive R & D programme on this project. The pumpy mill did come up but it was clear that the Gristinator showed more than 20% imorvement in function and aesthetics. The design is now registered........
Would you like the name of my patent attorney and we can talk some more.

Borret :blink:


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## Tony (2/5/05)

mmmmmmm a patent hey.

Thats not a bad idea B)


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## big d (2/5/05)

black patent


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## Borret (2/5/05)

The idea is good but the cost of it would totally throw out the window the dollars you saved in building your own mill. And a patent is nothing unless you support it. The patent at a few thousand bucks is worthless unless you a prepared to foot the court bills to back it up. Bla Bla Bla.

If anyone wants to build it then take it as a compliment I say. It's for the greater good. Hey why not even give em a hand.

Borret :blink:


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## Tony (2/5/05)

Whats a black patent Big D, It doesnt sound good.

Here are some picks of the build up on my mill. Its not as sezy as borrets mill but it works well

I love the 3D imaging Borret, whats the software you used?

cheers :beerbang:


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## big d (2/5/05)

hi tony
black patent is a brand name malt.
just my weird sense of humour coming through.
btw your mill looks the grouse.


cheers
big d


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## Tony (2/5/05)

ahhh i knew that, its been a long day, it made a ricoshet noise as it went over my head :blink: 

Bloody hell thousands of dollars. Bugger that, I wasnt trying to stop people making the "BULL CRUSH" as i like to call it  

I just thought it would be cool to say "the patent is pending" B) 

hope the pics help, i just used the pedistal drill at work to drill the holes, the bearing housings were drilled with a hole saw that, would you believe it, gave an interferance fit to a 6203 bearing. 

I used a router to bore out the timber and the adjustment screw slots.

Easy as that,

The rollers are 316 SS, 2" dia and 8" long and like i said, they will crack 6KG in 50 seconds and GT recons i have it running slow at 150 to 180 RPM.

The timber is kilned red gum hard wood and is so hard the router was smokin to cut it. It doesnt flex under load, believe me.

I screwed it all together with some coach bolts.

The handle is just a bit of 316 SS flat bar with a 16 mm SS nut tig welded on one end and a but of SS rod welded into the other.
I drilled out the file handle and threaded the center rod so a Nylock nut could do up tight but the handle still rotates on the shaft. Once again...... easy.

Cheers and happy grain building people.

PS, I left a 1 mm lip between the roller and the bearing to stop the bearings rubber seal picking up. Its described in the site posted bt borret in the "such and such has SS rollers" or something bit.

I will try to get some dimentions into a format i can post.

cheers again :super:


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## Tony (3/5/05)

Just putting out a feeler.........

Who would be interested in buying a mill like my "Bull Crush" If i made a couple of them.

And how much would people be prepared to spend??????

I would only build the base mill with rollers, frame and a handle if required.

I am a bit short on cash latley due to a kangaroo wripping up my pool liner, a stuffed clutch in a car and the wifes new glasses.
It would mean a fair bit of time at work after hours, unpaid, away from family to make them.

This is just a feeler but anyone interested please say.

I wont be able to make heaps of them but there could be a trickle of mills if you know what i mean.

I was thinking $250 for a mill something like this

It you have a comment be honest, i dont get offended easy B) 

cheers


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## kungy (3/5/05)

Perhaps the money is in producing the rollers? Just a thought. I would have a preference of buying the rollers, and making the mill. But thats only because i enjoy the challenge of making stuff seemingly like all brewers

Will


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## big d (3/5/05)

well theres a great thought tony via kungy.just fab up the rollers with bearings or what ever the purchaser wants.instead of a complete unit let the buyer build to suit around the rollers as this is often the most challenging part for a do it yourself project in mill making.

cheers
big d


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## Tony (3/5/05)

Yep the time and money is in the rollers, the timber is just a bit of easy work on the side.

I was quoted $200 (and that was a good price from a machine shop that does a lot of work for me) to turm up the rollers for my mill if i supplied them with the materials!!!

I have seen other reports on the net of quotes as high as $400 for them.

The rollers are the bit that takes the most time and costs the most too.

How about $200 for 2 x rollers, fitted with SKF 6203 sealed ball bearings, Approx 2" dia and up to 8" in length.

how does that sound.

Like i said, thats the size of mine and its tight to turn by hand and does 6 KG in under a minute with a small motor.

You dont need much more unless you want to crack very large quantities.

I would be confident to feed hundreds of KG's of grain into mine, It would do it easy, just take a few minuites is all  and i would need a bigger bin underneath.

cheers


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## dicko (3/5/05)

Tony said:


> I am a bit short on cash latley due to a kangaroo wripping up my pool liner, a stuffed clutch in a car and the wifes new glasses.
> 
> [post="57343"][/post]​



Well Tony,

You know the old saying,

"If it's got _*tyres or tits *_it will give you trouble"

But if it _*"hops"*_ the results may be bitter. :lol: 

I think it is a good idea to have someone on AHB be able to supply rollers and bearings of a predetermined size for any one wishing to build a mill.

Just a suggestion:
You might consider supplying mild steel rollers instead of s/steel at a cheaper price if possible.

Cheers


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## Tony (3/5/05)

The price of materials is not so much the concern with the rollers.

Its the hours spent turning down each roller on a layth at work after hours.

Thats time spent away from my wife and kids.

I has to be worth my while to make them.

Would you spend 4 to 6 hours behind a laythe getting red hot pieces of steel flung down your shirt for less?

Most machine shops rates start at $60/hr and go up from there plus materials.

Loike i said only a feeler to see if its worth it.

Fair comments Big D.

cheers :beer:


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## redbeard (3/5/05)

tony, im seriously thinking about a mill. was checking out the crankenstein, which is $au200-300 range, depending on model/shipping. so yours is in the right range. i could assemble the parts, if it was easier on shippping.

how wide is the rollers ?
can u replace the handle with an electric drill ?
does the mill have any adjustments or u leave it fixed ?

cheers


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## Tony (3/5/05)

The rollers are 2 inch diameter (50mm) and 8 inches long (200mm)

No problems with the handle, just turm down to 3/8 or 1/2 inch ahd irghten your drill chuck on it. I thing these mils are beyond some smaller battery drills but a good battery drill MIGHT do it, not sure though.

Would need a decent electric drill id say.

The mill is fully adjustable. I put some pics on the previous page of its basic construction.

It would probably be easier to ship assembled. I would build them a bit more compact than mine, i made mine from ideas in my head but would be improved.  

cheers


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## BrissyBrew (13/6/05)

Borret where did you get the lexen from and what is the cost of it like? $$$?


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## Borret (13/6/05)

BrissyBrew said:


> Borret where did you get the lexen from and what is the cost of it like? $$$?
> [post="63293"][/post]​



Hi Brissy,

I actually got mine for free from a mate i used to work for :super: . They were offcuts from a job he had left over. From what he told me lexan is a couple a hundred bucks for a full sheet (normally 2400 x 1200) but you may find it for cheaper somewhere . Your best bet might be a signwriter or industrial/engineerring plastic specialist who may have off cuts for cheap. Also ask for Polycarbonate sheet as Lexan is only a trademark name for GE PLastics. The place in Newcastle that mine originally came from what specialised wholesale. A great shop that I used to frequent at Uni for plastics fasteners amd heaps of other stuff. I'm don't know of anywhere is brisbane that is equivalent. Perhaps someone more local can help you. 
The use of lexan so you can mechanically feasten it together rather than glue it is wort the effort INHO.

Best of luck with it,

Borret :blink:


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