# Homemade Electric Plastic Boiler



## floydmeddler (4/2/09)

Hello folks,

I have decided to build myself an electric plastic boiler. I took the element out of a typical kitchen kettle, worked a bit of DIY on it, gave it a try on a square plastic container and it worked a treat. Only thing I need to work on now is a suitable vessel that will withstand scalding 100% wort boiling and splashing around in there for 60 - 90 mins! I was considering a typical brewing bucket or a even a plastic rubbish bin. Any ideas? I would love to see some pics of homemade plastic boilers if any one has any.

Cheers folks

Floyd


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## oldbugman (4/2/09)

the bucket of death!


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## fraser_john (4/2/09)

It has been done with some success in the past Linky


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## floydmeddler (4/2/09)

Hi John,

Yes, I'm kinda following that web page as a guide line. It definitely works... just as long as I use a HDPE container with the appropriate thickness. 

Cheers

Floyd


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## kram (4/2/09)

Floyd i've got a 25L Bunnings 'fermenter' that I've put an $8 Crazy Clarkes kettle element in. I use this as my HLT and it has no problems getting to the boil. It has a decent enough wall thickness on it that it is stable and doesn't get all soft.

I'll refrain from posting a pic or the AHB Electrical Police will arrive.


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## MarkBastard (4/2/09)

* bunnings fermenter
* crazy clarks bargain basement element
* good pair of rubber shoes
* increase life insurance policy

easy


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## boingk (4/2/09)

> * good pair of rubber shoes
> * increase life insurance policy


Hearing you on those two 

Seriously though, make sure the thing isn't going to fall apart while its on the boil. The amount of energy in 25 odd litres of boiling water is amazing, and you don't want it unleashed on your exposed skin. Its like most things in life, you've either got the money or the time, but rarely both. 

I suspect this is a case of having the time to construct, but not a lot of money to spend on brew bling (sounds exactly like my current position). Regardless, I'd say a carefully constructed BoD will serve you well from what I've been able to read on the issue. Looks like I might be in on the scene, too.

Cheers - boingk


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## enoch (4/2/09)

My 70 litre BOD was still going strong after about 7 years. Now its the back yard rubbish bin.
It is a very heavy duty HDPE syrup drum. The braid was taken off the pickup after this shot.









you can sort of see it in the background of this shot.


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## drsmurto (4/2/09)

A high % of the poms on this forum use plastic buckets and electric elements for their kettles.


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## Supra-Jim (4/2/09)

Recommended safety gear for operation of the Bucket O Death:

1 x 25m roll of aluminium foil






Also provides the added benefit of preventing the CIA from reading your mind.......

:icon_cheers: SJ


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## raven19 (4/2/09)

Supra-Jim said:


> Recommended safety gear for operation of the Bucket O Death:
> 
> 1 x 25m roll of aluminium foil
> 
> ...



Classic.

+1 for safety though, maybe a spill area also, or do a test brew outside?

As mentioned above, lots of energy in that much hot wort.

As I'd say to my Dad, Irish safety boots (thongs) a must.


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## enoch (4/2/09)

Supra-Jim said:


> Recommended safety gear for operation of the Bucket O Death:


If you knew where I sit in the power industry an invisibility cloak would have been useful. I feel much less hypocritical now I have a non electric boiler.


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## Thirsty Boy (4/2/09)

I have a BOD boiler made from an old fermentor - a homebrew shop one rather than bunnings, so a bit sturdier. Me personally.. I would be a bit nervous about the bunnings fermentor as a boiler ... they distort under the pressure of your hands when you lift them full of fermenting beer. I wouldn'tbe too trustfull of how soggy they might get with boiling wort in them. But the more robust ones would be absolutely fine.

The other thing to perhaps consider is this

price for 30L fermentor from G&G - $35
price for 30L Al stockpot from allquip - $74

price for 60L fermentor from G&G - $69
price for 60L stockpot from allquip - $99

So for around twice the price.. you get a nice solid Aluminium kettle that will take a kettle element every bit as easily as the plastic one - and you will have cut a step out of the inevitable upgrade path that you are unwittingly entering at this very moment.


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## Bribie G (4/2/09)

Take a Birko Boiler. Throw away the stainless steel body and replace it with a plastic brew bin.

You would end up with basically a Pommy *Bruheat* boiler / mash tun / HLT whatever, sold over there in the tens of thousads. Owned one in the UK, shipped it here and it went for a couple more years before it went to God.

No problems as long as it is properly put together.


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## jlm (4/2/09)

kram said:


> .
> 
> I'll refrain from posting a pic or the AHB Electrical Police will arrive.


You mean arrive again.


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## FreemanDC (4/2/09)

BIAB. with a bucket of death ? ???


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## Thirsty Boy (4/2/09)

Freemasha said:


> BIAB. with a bucket of death ? ???



more than one person does - just needs a BIG b.o.d.


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## Mantis (4/2/09)

I feel like batmans girlfriend in The Dark Knight, when the joker walks up to her at the party and says "You look nerrrrvous"

OOOOHHH, run away scared h34r:


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## poppa joe (4/2/09)

Google "cd's old electric wort boiler "
I have one made out of a Chlorine container..36 LTs.
Cheers 
PJ


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## Carbonator (4/2/09)

Mark^Bastard said:


> * good pair of rubber shoes



What type of rubber are we talking about?

Last time I saw rubber used to insulate 240 VAC stuff, it cause a short circuit and started a fire. Last time I heard about trucks with rubber tyres coming into contact with OH AC power lines, the *rubber* tyres exploded and caught on fire.

http://www.upholdtheright.com/gallery/cfa

The moral of the story; DONT use rubber shoes, use those bling plastic ones


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## floydmeddler (5/2/09)

Cheers everyone. Reckon I just need to get my hands on a good quality HDPE drum basically. Will keep you posted... more comments / advice welcome! 

Cheers,

Floyd


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## floydmeddler (5/2/09)

Anyone have any views on this? Reckon it is HDPE:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/30lt-plastic-barrels...%3A1|240%3A1318


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## floydmeddler (5/2/09)

This guy just used a typical fermenting bin:

http://wezbrew.blogspot.com/2007_05_01_archive.html


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## lagers44 (5/2/09)

That's pretty much what i've done , used an old fermenter & it's been going strong for 11years.


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## floydmeddler (5/2/09)

Here's what I bought:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=370153204305

Floyd


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## floydmeddler (5/2/09)

Lagers44, cheers for the reply... 11 years? That's a real testament! What heating element / elements do you have in there? I used a Tesco's value kettle element for my prototype and it worked really well. Only thing that is worrying me is covering up the electrics on the other side. What have you done?

Cheers again

Floyd


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## MHB (5/2/09)

> Anyone have any views on this? Reckon it is HDPE:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/30lt-plastic-barrels...%3A1|240%3A1318



Quite likely, but i would like to know which particular heavy metal went into the blue colouring.

MHB


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## Carbonator (5/2/09)

floydmeddler said:


> Here's what I bought:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=370153204305
> 
> Floyd



Floyd, those drums may not be made from UV stabilised material, so basically seeing the one in the eBay listing there would put me right off.

I had one for seed storage and it used to see the light of day (not direct sunlight) and the when I picked it up one day, the handle disintegrated. Be sure to pick a new looking one.


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## floydmeddler (6/2/09)

Hi,

I emailed the seller and he stated that it is HDPE. It's in the post now so I guess I'll have to wait and see. 

Given the fact that it has been used as food products, I doubt there will be anything harmful in the colouring. Will have to give it a good 1hr 30 mins boil using water, cool it down then do a taste test. Can't think of any thing else other than that! 

Fingers crossed it will be made of UV stabilised plastic.... have to admit... bit worried now.


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## lagers44 (6/2/09)

> Lagers44, cheers for the reply... 11 years? That's a real testament! What heating element / elements do you have in there? I used a Tesco's value kettle element for my prototype and it worked really well. Only thing that is worrying me is covering up the electrics on the other side. What have you done?



Hi Floydmeddler , I just went to an electrical wholesaler and bought a 2000W kettle element ( back then $45 ) all you need to do is make a hole around 50mm add a rubber washer & screw 2 bits together, power is then just a nornal kettle lead. Safe & clean. initially it used to be my wort kettle before i upgraded now it's just a HLT.

Lagers


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## shellnaf (6/2/09)

Lagers, what do you use for temperature control?

Nathan


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## fergi (6/2/09)

floydmeddler said:


> Hi,
> 
> I emailed the seller and he stated that it is HDPE. It's in the post now so I guess I'll have to wait and see.
> 
> ...





if it was used for food products it certainly wouldnt be "heavy metal" we have coloured drums with food product that come into our butcher shop. more than likely some type of vegetable dye.

cheers fergi


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## floydmeddler (6/2/09)

fergi said:


> if it was used for food products it certainly wouldnt be "heavy metal" we have coloured drums with food product that come into our butcher shop. more than likely some type of vegetable dye.
> 
> cheers fergi



Cheers Fergi. Feeling better again! Lagers44, going to use the kettle element from a cheap kettle I bought at my local super market:




The only obstacle now is creating a safe housing for the back to keep away the electrics. IDEAS WELCOME! Will hopefully build it this wknd if my barrel arrives. Will put a few pics up here if it works!

Floyd


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## muckanic (9/2/09)

floydmeddler said:


> The only obstacle now is creating a safe housing for the back to keep away the electrics. IDEAS WELCOME!



I have always used the kettle housing. The older ones screw onto the element. Failing that, you could try raiding an old hot water service (whose elements are actually a lot better designed for the job). Whatever you do, make sure it is earthed.

It is interesting that plastic seems to be replacing pyrex for a lot of chem lab applications, although it is most often polypropylene rather than HDPE.


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## jimi (9/2/09)

I had a 30ltr HDPE fermenter with a immersions element in it as my HLT for awhile. The tap I had in it was one of those "snap taps" which are also good for boiling temps. However the conventional fermenter tap screw in maust have expanded a bit with the heat and it effectively blew the tap out an poured about 20ltrs of v hot water on me and the floor  

If I were to go the plastic option again I'd make sure the tap fix screwed through the wall with a nut with a large flange. 
Ahh so many mistakes to learn from!!


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## lagers44 (10/2/09)

> Lagers, what do you use for temperature control?
> 
> Nathan



I don't have temp control for this, when it boils or i reach sparge temp i just turn off the power. On brew day i'm always around to check & i know roughly how long it takes to get to temp.
I fill with hot tap water & apart from the coldest days it's around 30-45min to boil for 25L.

Lagers


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## floydmeddler (11/2/09)

Well folks, I made it! Here it is:




I gave it a try and it worked a treat. The plastic became a little flimsy as expected but nothing to worry about. Had it boiling water for around an hour and it didn't show any problems at all. The housing isn't needed as I realised that it simply takes a generic kettle cable. It's all safe and sound with no electrics showing:




The white part that you see is from the actual kettle it came with. I put it on there to add thickness and get a better seal. It's also earthed.

Tasted the cool water from it and no funny flavours either. Pretty chuffed at my bargain boiler. Think I'll call it The Thunder Bird.

Comments welcome.

Floyd


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## Carbonator (11/2/09)

Well done Floyd.

Where does it drain from?

Other thing I'm thinking about is the element height from the base. Water underneath it, though it does get warm, wont really boil there.


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## floydmeddler (11/2/09)

Carbonator said:


> Well done Floyd.
> 
> Where does it drain from?
> 
> Other thing I'm thinking about is the element height from the base. Water underneath it, though it does get warm, wont really boil there.



Hmm... I know. It boils pretty well though so I'm hoping a good rolling boil will disperse the heat evenly around the kettle. I'm installing a tap tomorrow. Will have to put it at the same height as the element because the drum curves around at the bottom. Going to have to put a copper pipe in there too and connect it to the tap so that I can get all the sweet wort from the bottom. Do you reckon this my only option?

Cheers

Floyd


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## bigholty (11/2/09)

It's good insurance to have your tap slightly higher than the element - if you drain the thing to empty without realising your element is still on, you'll still have liquid covering the element which will prevent meltdown of the electric element.


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## Carbonator (11/2/09)

floydmeddler said:


> Hmm... I know. It boils pretty well though so I'm hoping a good rolling boil will disperse the heat evenly around the kettle.



Not always the case. I have a drain on a kettles that is at the very bottom, about 70mm below the elements. When the liquid has boiled, I drain it and find the first stuff coming out is warm, not boiling hot. I would assume convection current does roll the liquid, but not all of it. I do have an Ice Bank and it comes with an agitator to circulate the water, so it wont freeze - I'm thinking same principle for boiling too. Is there any physicists out there that could complete the story? 



bigh said:


> If you drain the thing to empty without realising your element is still on, you'll still have liquid covering the element which will prevent meltdown of the electric element.



I agree on this, would also stop sediment from scorched brew (elements do this) and unboiled warm liquid coming out first. I am guilty of doing the drain and element on once myself. It must of been going for about 20 mins, lucky it's a SS vessel. The element was glowing pink when I found it. Still all good, probably a lot hotter than a stove or oven element, but they are strong.


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## floydmeddler (12/2/09)

I'm going to have to be super careful with the element. As far as the heat not dispersing, it will do if I stir throughout hopefully. Can't imagine it being much of an issue to be honest. 

Made myself a wort chiller too:





That's everything now ready to go! Brew day on Saturday where I'll be trying out my new homemade mash tun, boiler and chiller! Love this hobby. Cheers everyone! 

Floyd


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## floydmeddler (15/2/09)

Think people have stopped reading this thread but I'll stick to my word and put up a photo of The Thunderbird in action. It worked admirably:




Yesterday's brewing session was completely stress free. Didn't have one single problem whatsoever. Isn't it great when everything just.... works?

Floyd


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## Lowlyf (15/7/15)

Build me one? Looks awesome mate


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## sstacey (15/7/15)

Bringing up an old post Lowlyf!
Brings up some memories for me. I started brewing with 2 x 20l plastic buckets from bunnings and elements from $10 kettles, back when I was a student. Brewed like this for a couple of years and made some great beers. Even won a gold at the national comp. Have a fancier keg kettle now but they were the good ol' days! (Not actually that long ago...)


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## Lowlyf (16/7/15)

SPS said:


> Bringing up an old post Lowlyf!
> Brings up some memories for me. I started brewing with 2 x 20l plastic buckets from bunnings and elements from $10 kettles, back when I was a student. Brewed like this for a couple of years and made some great beers. Even won a gold at the national comp. Have a fancier keg kettle now but they were the good ol' days! (Not actually that long ago...)


Yeah it is old but I have been looking into brewing in one of these. Not great on the tools personally, but I really want to give it a shot and save some coin


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## S.E (16/7/15)

Lowlyf said:


> Yeah it is old but I have been looking into brewing in one of these. Not great on the tools personally, but I really want to give it a shot and save some coin


I had, well still have somewhere an old plastic Electrim bin BIAB boiler from the UK. It has a crack in the side now from poor storage and misuse but lasted for many years.

[SIZE=11pt]If I was going to make something similar I would consider a cheap ebay SS stock pot over plastic. [/SIZE]


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## Lowlyf (16/7/15)

S.E said:


> I had, well still have somewhere an old plastic Electrim bin BIAB boiler from the UK. It has a crack in the side now from poor storage and misuse but lasted for many years.
> 
> If I was going to make something similar I would consider a cheap ebay SS stock pot over plastic.


Electric or gas?


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## S.E (16/7/15)

Lowlyf said:


> Electric or gas?


Not sure I understand the question but my plastic Electrim Bin (don’t know why they called it a bin) was/is a thermostatically controlled electric boiler. They are still available if you google it.

I prefer gas and my brewery is gas but for what you want to build electric would be easier and cheaper to control thermostatically. Obviously if you went plastic you couldn’t direct heat it with gas.


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