# No chill ipa recipe advice



## murpho (22/12/16)

hi brewers,

I'm looking for some advice on my first all grain IPA.

These are the ingredients I have on hand:

6kg gladfield american ale
1kg weyermann pale ale
1/2 kg each of caramunich 2, light crystal, medium crystal
500g galaxy
500g cascade
100g galena
50g horizon

Ideally I'd like something in the 6-7% range with hops galore. In regards to hopping schedules I have no idea what I'm doing but I'm thinking something like this:

BIAB no chill
68% brewhouse efficiency 
batch size: 20L
OG: 1.064
FG: 1.013
IBU: ~70
ABV: 6.6%

Fermentables:
6kg gladfield american ale
150g caramunich 2

Hops:
20g Galena @60 minutes, 27 IBU
25g Cascade @0 minutes, 7 IBU
25g Galaxy @0 minutes, 14 IBU
50g Cascade @Cube, 8 IBU (very much a guess on cube IBUs)
50g Galaxy @Cube, 16 IBU
50g Cascade dry hop 
50g Galaxy dry hop 

Yeast:
MJ M42 New World Strong Ale @18c

Other: 
1/2 whirlflock tab @10 minutes
1tsp calcium sulphate water agent

Mash details:
64c for 90 minutes, 78c mashout for 10 minutes. Mashing low to aim for a fairly dry beer. 

Any suggestions on whether this will turn out ok, or is there a some things that could be changed to improve it?? I'm not sure if the additions of galaxy and cascade should be equal, maybe a 2:1 ratio of cascade to galaxy would be better?

Cheers,
Tom


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## SBOB (22/12/16)

I would just move all those 0 min additions into cube additions (so 75g of each into the cube)


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## Coodgee (22/12/16)

a perfectly reasonable beer will be made with that recipe. you could go another 50-100 grams of hops on the dry hop. and yes the galaxy will drown out the cascade. maybe go 100-150grams cascade + 50grams galaxy dry hop. and you could drop the 60 minute addition and make up those IBUs with a 20 minute flavour addition of cascade.


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## timmi9191 (22/12/16)

My general recipe rules for a no chill ipa 
50% of the ibu's from the bittering addition. I fwh if using a high aa hop otherwise a 60min addition of northern brewer.

50% of ibu's from the cube additions.

2g/l dry hop after fg reached. 2g/l when chilled


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## murpho (22/12/16)

Thanks guys. I'm keen to keep the 60 minute addition to save some cascade. So maybe I go something like this:

20g Galena @60 27 IBU
45g Cascade @10 18 IBU
15g Galaxy @0 8 IBU
75g Cascade @cube 12 IBU
50g Galaxy @cube 16 IBU
100g Cascade dry hop
50g Galaxy dry hop


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## tj2204 (22/12/16)

SBOB said:


> I would just move all those 0 min additions into cube additions (so 75g of each into the cube)


100% agree with this. 

The 10 min and flameout additions should be moved to the cube. 120g cascade and 65g galaxy in the cube should give you around 50 ibu.

You will get much better flavour and aroma by doing this IMO.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (22/12/16)

I now entirely cube hop an ipa. Works a treat.


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## SBOB (22/12/16)

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> I now entirely cube hop an ipa. Works a treat.


no bittering charge?
What kind of grams of hops do you end up using? (per L, per batch whatever)


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## Dan Pratt (22/12/16)

IPA is one of the few styles that no chill isn't really good for. I've tried it in all manners for that style and it seems a chilled IPA trumps it with flavour everytime.


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## Coodgee (22/12/16)

Pratty1 said:


> IPA is one of the few styles that no chill isn't really good for. I've tried it in all manners for that style and it seems a chilled IPA trumps it with flavour everytime.


oh lookout! there will be some strong opinions about this!


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## murpho (22/12/16)

Coodgee said:


> oh lookout! there will be some strong opinions about this!


 Haha, was wondering about this. I guess it's a matter of personal taste, only one way to find out. I'll move all late hops to the cube


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## Tex083 (22/12/16)

I like a 50% IBU 60min addition and cube hop for almost all of my beers. Northern Brewer or Magnum for battering then hit it hard with cube hops.
My theory is crazy but if you put the hops in the cube then put the lid on you can't "loose" aroma. Some of the AA's will be isomirised but nothing escapes.
That's my mad theory. With a good dry hop it works.


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## Coodgee (22/12/16)

I don't do any 60 minute hops at all for an ipa or apa. Nothing earlier than 30.almost always nothing earlier than 20. Today was 150 grams at 10 minutes.


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## indica86 (23/12/16)

Pratty1 said:


> IPA is one of the few styles that no chill isn't really good for. I've tried it in all manners for that style and it seems a chilled IPA trumps it with flavour everytime.


Mine work just fine, everytime.
Bittering + 20 minute flameout + dry hop = IPA that works just fine.


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## fungrel (23/12/16)

Pratty1 said:


> IPA is one of the few styles that no chill isn't really good for. I've tried it in all manners for that style and it seems a chilled IPA trumps it with flavour everytime.


I don't want to derail the thread by agreeing, but i find this to be true. My IPAs benefit from a long sub-iso rest that i can't replicate in the cube. 

I have had some measure of success from 1/3 of IBU content at 60 and the rest into the cube.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (23/12/16)

SBOB said:


> no bittering charge?
> What kind of grams of hops do you end up using? (per L, per batch whatever)


I use brewmate to calc a 0 minute 40-60 ibu addition no chill. Use that amount. Usually about 50/20/30 - chinook or CTZ with the rest fruity types like cascade and citra.

I keep it pretty simple.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (23/12/16)

I will add that in Tasmania, it chilled quicker and it was hoppier. In Qld less so. I'm going to experiment with this - watch this space.

As a qualitative thumbs up, I gave the mrs some brew dog punk ipa and she said "this is nice, but not as good as yours. It is the closest commercial example though."


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## Smokomark (23/12/16)

I find that a 40 min bittering charge, then a 10 min addition then flameout addition followed by a 20 min stand then whirlpool addition and stand for 20 mins, and a couple of substantial dry additions are preferable to cube hopping. I find it achieves a lot cleaner flavour and aroma profile.

Cube hopping seems to muddy things up a bit. I have cube hopped around 30 beers, and experimented a lot with temps when cubes are filled and chill times, and while I made many outstanding IPAs using this method they still fall short of my no chill - no cube hop IPAs.


Edit: Once cubes are filled they all go swimming in the pool.


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## Rocker1986 (23/12/16)

So to summarise all the posts, everyone seems to have slightly different preferences so basically you'll have to work out a hopping schedule that works best for your own tastes. :lol:

It does look like a tasty recipe though.


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## Bob_Loblaw (12/1/17)

smokomark said:


> I find that a 40 min bittering charge, then a 10 min addition then flameout addition followed by a 20 min stand then whirlpool addition and stand for 20 mins, and a couple of substantial dry additions are preferable to cube hopping. I find it achieves a lot cleaner flavour and aroma profile.
> 
> Cube hopping seems to muddy things up a bit. I have cube hopped around 30 beers, and experimented a lot with temps when cubes are filled and chill times, and while I made many outstanding IPAs using this method they still fall short of my no chill - no cube hop IPAs.
> 
> ...


Wouldn't this negate the effects of cube hopping though? Putting them in the pool should cool them rather rapidly no? I like the idea of using the pool to chill the cubes, but wouldn't this mess with the concept of throwing any sub 20min hops in the cube?


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## murpho (23/1/17)

Thanks all for your feedback. I finally got around to brewing this yesterday, and just pitched it into the fv this evening.

It was a learning experience to say the least :lol: 

Recipe:
IPA 
BIAB, no chill, crown urn

6kg Gladfield American ale
150g caramunich

20g Galena @60 minutes
120g Cascade cube
60g Galaxy cube
80g Cascade dry hop
40g Galaxy dry hop

MJ’s M42 new world strong ale

Mash 90 minutes at 64c

Target stats at 65% efficiency:
Volume: 20L
OG: 1060
IBU ~ 70
ABV: 6.4%

Actual stats:
efficiency 56%
Volume: 20L
OG: 1052
IBU ~ 70
ABV: 5.5%

This was my third all grain batch after a couple of smash pale ales in which I was hitting around 70% efficiency. Based on those batches I thought 65% for a bigger grain bill would be good to aim for. A couple of things I noticed:

- Its far more difficult brewing beers with bigger grain bills, the pale ales were easy and a great place to start. It's gonna take some practice to get consistency on an IPA
- need to be careful of cut outs on the urn due to larger amounts of sugar. During the boil the urn cut out sometime around the halfway mark when I wasn’t watching it. Gave it a scrape and all was fine but when I drained the urn of the trub there was a thick black crust of burnt sugar on the concealed element. This took about half an hour of very hard scrubbing with steel wool to remove.
- the near 200g of cube hops took a lot more fluid than I thought. When I drained to the cube, I estimated I had around 21 litres, 1 litre more than planned but I ended up on target. 

Fingers crossed this turns out a nice beer, I’ll report back on results when its ready.

So it was a bit of a bummer to be so far off my targets but I'm not to concerned about that at this stage. What was really annoying was the burnt crap on the element, cos jebus that was hard to get off. I certainly don’t want to have to do that each time I brew a heavier beer. For those of you that are brewing bigger beers (>6%) in the crown urn, how do you stop this from happening? I'm assuming just give it a scrub a couple of times prior to and during the boil..


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