# Home Made Mash Tun Manifold - Cpvc/pvc?



## mookiedoi (8/10/09)

Hi all... Was just wanting to know if pvc is a big no no for a mush tun manifold? 
Ive been reading that i should only use cpvc... 
if this is true ive got a worthless pvc one i just made


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## Supra-Jim (8/10/09)

from memory PVC is rated to 60degC. Most mash temps will be above this. Higher temps will soften the PVC and the weight of the liquid and grain may crush your manifold making it useless.

Cheers SJ


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## mookiedoi (8/10/09)

yeah thanks i've read up on it and now know <_< 
i should replace everything.. pipe, elbow, and T sections. ughhh
fun times!


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## ausdb (8/10/09)

mookiedoi said:


> Hi all... Was just wanting to know if pvc is a big no no for a mush tun manifold?
> Ive been reading that i should only use cpvc...
> if this is true ive got a worthless pvc one i just made



You have been reading too many American brewing texts and websites, just try to buy some cpvc at bunnings and you will quickly change your mind. The only place you are likely find it in Aus is at a fire protection company that installs fire sprinkler systems.

Why not use slotted copper or a hose braid?


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## seemax (8/10/09)

my 1st manifold was PVC... fairly cheap and easy to modify, never had any softening problems, but it was a pain to clean

go with the stainless braid, it so simple you can't go wrong and efficiency for batch sparging is almost the same


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## clean brewer (8/10/09)

mookiedoi said:


> Hi all... Was just wanting to know if pvc is a big no no for a mush tun manifold?
> Ive been reading that i should only use cpvc...
> if this is true ive got a worthless pvc one i just made



Checkout Brew Doods Website, he builds his Manifolds from CPVC, email him if you need some advice, friendly guy....  

:icon_cheers: CB


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## mookiedoi (8/10/09)

Thanks astdb i will make a copper one i was considering it at first but seemed a harder job more expensive plus the cpvc one could pull apart for easy cleaning if need be.

had no idea cpvc is difficult to find in Australia.

The amount of info originating from the U.S unsurprisingly floods the internet..


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## Peteoz77 (8/10/09)

I used PVC about a year ago and have made over 850 Liters with NO issues.


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## t2000kw (8/10/09)

Peteoz77 said:


> I used PVC about a year ago and have made over 850 Liters with NO issues.



PVC is not rated for hot water (in the US anyway). CPVC is rated for hot water supplies in homes. The PVC may leach out plasticizers into hot water, but I think the cold water only rating for PVC has to do with its ability to handle pressure above a certain temperature. 

Since you're not going to be putting it under pressure, it won't matter unless there's also a problem with chemical leaching from the PVC. 

If you have CPVC available, I would just use that. It shouldn't be expensive, though it will cost a bit more than the cheaper PVC.


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## manticle (8/10/09)

mookiedoi said:


> Thanks astdb i will make a copper one i was considering it at first but seemed a harder job more expensive plus the cpvc one could pull apart for easy cleaning if need be.



I made a copper manifold. That means almost anyone can make one. You just need good instructions (I can help with this if you need). Buy your bits at a plumbing trade centre (tradelink etc) and it will cost diddly.

As for cleaning: it's a POP. Flush out till no grain bits then soak in vinegar or vinegar solution (cheap white stuff) for a short amount of time till copper is pink. Discard, rinse. Do this after use and again before use.

Because you are boiling the wort you don't need to go crazy and pull everything apart - just avoid big bits of mould growing inside by doing the above.


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## avaneyk (8/10/09)

Mine's a stainless steel braid - really easy and cheap to build but from what I've read, slightly lower efficiency than a copper mannifold. The braid will cost about $15 - you just buy a s/s braided hose from the hardware store, cut off the connector ends and pull the rubber hose out. Then re-attach one of the connectors to one end with a s/s hose clamp and fold the other end over. Done. 

The rest is the same as the copper manifold.


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## ausdb (9/10/09)

mookiedoi said:


> Thanks astdb i will make a copper one i was considering it at first but seemed a harder job more expensive plus the cpvc one could pull apart for easy cleaning if need be.
> 
> had no idea cpvc is difficult to find in Australia.
> 
> The amount of info originating from the U.S unsurprisingly floods the internet..


If you have already made a pvc one why not try that for a while and see it it works or not? better not to waste the effort.

I wont get into the debate about slotted copper manifolds vs stainless hose braids, gets a bit like a holy war at times  all I will say is that I have both and they both work well.

A slotted copper manifold is not that hard, backflushing with mains pressure water works pretty well and if you solder/braze some of the joints and then leave the others as a push fit the manifold can be knocked apart for super duper cleaning if needed. If you are going to go slotted copper then a means of holding the copper whilst you cut the slots with a hacksaw helps a lot. Also use a hacksaw blade with lots of teeth say a 32TPI blade as it will cut better and leave a narrower slot. There are some photos of a large manifold I made on our club website here there is 5m of 1/2 copper in that one with slots every 10mm or so, about 2 hours work all up one day.


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## chucke (9/10/09)

I use an CPVC manifold, unglued for easy disassembly, and it works great.
After each use I pull it apart to clean, then reassemble.

As to using PVC; I *think* the typical improvised mash tun walls (cooler or esky) are also PVC.

If it were me and I had already built one out of PVC, I would soak it a few times in water 10 degrees over mash temps.
Assuming everything looks good- let'er fly.




Edit- here are my mash tuns with the manifolds upside down.

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt304/c.../mashtun001.jpg

http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt304/c.../mashtun002.jpg


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## mookiedoi (10/10/09)

Thanks everyone! ended up going with the copper manifold it was a lota fun to make. and i got use of a dremel i have never used till today
thanks manticle your [STEP BY STEP: DIY AG on the cheap] thread was a big help. ^_^ 







i was cleaning a bunch of things today and decided to put the new copper manifold into a oxyper bath. (sanitizing powder) and it started fizzing like mad. Is this a good thing? am i cleaning it, or am i doing something bad to the copper?


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## lefty2446 (10/10/09)

looks really good, when are you going to get it dirty?

Lefty


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## manticle (11/10/09)

mookiedoi said:


> Thanks everyone! ended up going with the copper manifold it was a lota fun to make. and i got use of a dremel i have never used till today
> thanks manticle your [STEP BY STEP: DIY AG on the cheap] thread was a big help. ^_^
> 
> 
> ...



Looks great. Glad I could help inspire. My information and inspiration came in turn from a bunch of people here.

As for the oxidation agent - what you are doing is oxidising or corroding your copper. Clean it off and just use simple white vinegar to clean. The acid removes the corrosion product. You can even use a white vinegar/water solution. Don't leave it in too long (if the solution is blue/green it's been on too long) - just give it a go once after use and give a wipe or rinse with clean water and allow to dry. Repeat just before use. The copper will stay nice and shiny pink and avoid putting corrosion products in your mash.


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## warra48 (11/10/09)

AndrewSA said:


> Mine's a stainless steel braid - really easy and cheap to build but from what I've read, slightly lower efficiency than a copper mannifold. The braid will cost about $15 - you just buy a s/s braided hose from the hardware store, cut off the connector ends and pull the rubber hose out. Then re-attach one of the connectors to one end with a s/s hose clamp and fold the other end over. Done.
> 
> The rest is the same as the copper manifold.



I did it even easier. I just cut off one connector only. Put the other end in a vise, squeeze up the braid a small amount until you can get a good grip on the exposed rubber hose with a visegrips, apply a steady hard pull and the rubber hose will eventually come away from the far end. Then just crimp the cut end of the braid, and you're done, leaving a perfectly good connector end to use.


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