# Wyeast 1968 London Esb



## lastdrinks

I've upgraded my kits'n'bits and i put down a Wyeast 1968 London ESB. Banged the pack, let if puff up and chucked it in the fermentor with 1 can of goo, 1.2 Light DME and 500g of mixed cara. Also boiled 20g of Goldings for 25min and another 25g for 5 mins.

All was going well, fermentation started banging away 24 hours later. Then stopped about 5 days later at 1.020. it looks like the temp dropped to about 18c in the fermentor fridge. So i've loaded hot water bottles and am raising to about 22c, also gave it a good shake.

Does this sound like decent plan? Expecting a FG of 1.014 or 15. If it doesnt take off by Wednesday i am planning about breaking a rule i haven't yet and sticking a sterilised stirrer in fermentor and giving a stir.

Bloody tasty little liquid yeasties, beer from the hydro definately had more character than the nottingham and safale 05 i have previously used.


----------



## Thirsty Boy

The 1968 is notorious for packing up its bat and ball and heading for the bottom at just about 1.020. Especially if you dare to let the temperature drop.

You have done what it is that most people will recommend, warm up the fermentor and give it a swirl. You will need to keep it at 21-22 and probably have to swirl it a couple of times a day, but those few point will most likely drop off.

I treat it the same way I used to treat safale S04 which behaved in the same way - I watch the fermentation, and as soon as the Krausen starts to back off (maybe day three?)I start to give the fermentor a swirl every day and put up the temperature by a degree each day till I get to 22. Where I keep it, swirling 1 or two times a day, till its done.

Nice yeast, but a little fussy.


----------



## Goofinder

Give it a good swirl a few times, as it drops out pretty quickly. Also, you should only expect 67-71% attenuation according to Wyeast. I think I got slightly higher than that on my last brew, but it was mashed fairly low to get the fermentability.

Agree about the taste on this one... even just starters of this taste beautiful!


----------



## Dave86

I've been giving this yeast a go lately and have managed 76% and 73.8% on the two brews that are finished. As mentioned, I think this bad boy needs to be kept a point or or two warmer than usual, at least toward the end


----------



## rosswill

I've got a Fullers ESB clone going at the moment with 1968, it has exactly the same issue. It went to sleep at 1022. I gave it a swirl and turned the heat up to 22 degrees. It limped back to life for two day, and fell asleep again. Now doing it daily until the weekend. Hope the end result justifies the extra effort.


----------



## mickoz

Hi Rosswill,

Are you able to post your recipe for the Fullers ESB clone?

Thanks

Mick


----------



## lastdrinks

I agree rosswill, its taking some of the fun out of it. 

Mental note: Must make starter must make starter


----------



## pbrosnan

My last effort with this yeast was in the range 1052 -1016. The FG was read as optimistically as possible. I find most of the English yeasts to be low attenuators and very difficult to get to a low FG. I just did a brew using 1335 and couldn't get that below 1018 from 1052. I'll try the old raising the temp to 22 next time as most of mine spend their time below 20.


----------



## ballzac

I just used 1968 in an old speckled hen clone from Orfy @ HBT, but with high OG for an extra kick. I may be lucky that I don't have temperature control, because I had no choice but to ferment it at around 20-22 C. OG was 1.064, FG was 1.010. It's the first liquid yeast I've used, so I can't really comment apart from to say it's tasting quite lovely and is in secondary at the moment. Actually tastes more like an abbey ale than a pale ale or ESB due to the high alcohol content, and I will probably give it a decent level of carbonation. Anyway, I've washed the yeast and will definitely use it again.


----------



## lastdrinks

Well the reading today was down to 1.016 and still tasting good. :icon_cheers: 

Will see how far it goes.


----------



## Weizguy

Keep wakin' em up until they finish the job.

The issue occurs since the yeast of often active in some type of Yorkshire squares or whatever type of Burton Union-ish setup.
The Krausen (barm) can be massive, and the ferment can be violent (I am led to believe).

A good culture and daily rousing can see the job done in 4 days or so. Sounds like some Belgian yeasts. Probably both of Brit origin, as a lot of Belgian brewers trained in England in the 50's.

Just sampled about half a pint (handled mug) of London Pride cloney with WLP002 (same beast as W1968, or at least of the same origin) out of the fermentor at room temp. Mmmm, cask ale in my own home. Fruity and malty.


----------



## reviled

Ive got two commercial bottles with about 100mls of beer and the 1968 yeast sitting in them, anyone got any good tips for getting this yeast recultured? I was thinking of just throwing the dregs from both bottles in, but reading this, seems like the yeast may not like it??


----------



## gibbocore

i've just woken up and taken a sample of my (stuck 1968) and it has fermented from 1058 to 1020 overnight, and it seems that in its violence has bubbled itself over 25 degrees. Its sure as sh!t aint 25 degrees in my garage. I had pitched about 400ml of the yeast on tuesday night and had no action till midday yesterday. I had no intention of using temp control as the problem was keeping it above 16 degrees. Damned if you do and damned if you dont.


----------



## rosswill

Mickoz, here you go. 
This is the Fullers ESB recipe from Tess & Mark Szamatulski's book, Clone Brews.
Its for a 5gal/19L batch. OG 1054-57, FG 1011-14. SRM 13, IBU 44, ABV 5.5%.
340g British crystal malt, 57g British amber malt, 57g aromatic malt. 4.1kg British 2-row pale malt, 230g flaked maize. Mash at 65.5 degrees for 90 minutes. Add 25g Target hops for 60 mins, 14g of Challenger and 14g Northdown and irish moss for 15 mins. 28g East Kent Goldings for 1 min. Let cool for 15 mins before draining. Pitch Wyeast Special London Ale 1968 and ferment at 20-22 degrees. Add 14g of EKG into secondary.
I scaled the recipe up to 23L, used available malts, and made allowances for my efficiency. I used 5kg of Marris Otter, 350g Bairds medium crystal, 100g Caraaroma and 250g flaked maize. I got an OG of 1056. All Ive got to do now is keep the 1968 yeast awake to get a decent final gravity. The daily swirling seems to be working. The gravity samples taken to date taste fantastic.


----------



## Benniee

I feel a bit foolish asking this, but here goes...

You guys mention "swirling" the fermenter - what is you method? Do you spin the fermenter for a little while, or give it a good swing? How long do you "swirl for? Does it get all the yeast back in suspension or a smaller amount?

I'm just thinking that if there is any CO2 in the mix, that's coming out for sure - and then aren't you going to knock some of karusen ring back into the beer. 

Obviously these things aren't a problem because so many of you have had success doing it. I'm just asking from the point of view of never having "swirled".

Benniee


----------



## rosswill

Benniee
I do not know the science, I swirled instintively for about 5-10 seconds. It seems to have been effective. I was not aware at the time it was a trait of this yeast. My aim was to get the settled yeasties back into the wort without introducing air into the wort. So its a swirl, not a splash. Getting crusties back into the wort is probably not desirable, but if it is in a sterile enviornment, it does not seem to make much difference.


----------



## mickoz

rosswill said:


> Mickoz, here you go.
> This is the Fullers ESB recipe from Tess & Mark Szamatulski's book, Clone Brews.
> Its for a 5gal/19L batch. OG 1054-57, FG 1011-14. SRM 13, IBU 44, ABV 5.5%.
> 340g British crystal malt, 57g British amber malt, 57g aromatic malt. 4.1kg British 2-row pale malt, 230g flaked maize. Mash at 65.5 degrees for 90 minutes. Add 25g Target hops for 60 mins, 14g of Challenger and 14g Northdown and irish moss for 15 mins. 28g East Kent Goldings for 1 min. Let cool for 15 mins before draining. Pitch Wyeast Special London Ale 1968 and ferment at 20-22 degrees. Add 14g of EKG into secondary.
> I scaled the recipe up to 23L, used available malts, and made allowances for my efficiency. I used 5kg of Marris Otter, 350g Bairds medium crystal, 100g Caraaroma and 250g flaked maize. I got an OG of 1056. All Ive got to do now is keep the 1968 yeast awake to get a decent final gravity. The daily swirling seems to be working. The gravity samples taken to date taste fantastic.




Cheers Rosswill


----------



## mickoz

Hi Guys,

I've just put an English Bitter down to ferment using the Wyeast 1968. I have to say that it is the strangest yeast I have used to date. Even in the starter on the stirplate the yeast clumps together and tries to fall out of suspension. The stirring keeps the little blobs moving but I wonder if there is any left in suspension at all, it seems the little buggers like to hug each other when they run out of food  Looks like white oil in the flask but certainly smells and tastes great.

Mick


----------



## dr K

as others have found 1968 is a very flocculent yeast that really does need a bit of rousing.
when i use it its out to the brewhouse at not much past dawn every day for a jolly old rousing at which time I shout out "Hands off Cocks on Socks", always good for a giggle.
It is fine top cropper as well for those who want to get into proper harvesting !
anyway, try the 1026 Cask Ale , it is fantastic. I made a crap ordinary from it, too bitter, unbalanced, thin to the point that it was only the diacetyl that held it up and with a a low level of acetaldehyde. I am pouring it "off the floor" at the moment, 12C in the glass but it is as bright as any filtered beer I have had, it is less than two weeks in the keg, in fact it was very clear a week ago with only a few days in the keg when I took some up North on my way to the BandT

K


----------



## lastdrinks

Thought i'd give an update for anyone like me sticking the big toe into these liquid yeasts. So early results from the bottle are good, malty, fruity and pretty clear beers. I did three brews with ESB 1968, the frist one was a real pain and seemed to need more attenuation, the other 2 that were fermented with 1 cup of trub of yeast from the previous brew, all attenuated down well. I have two kegs left aging as i think it needs it with all the hops.

Would i use it again?.... probably but the next ESB/ english pale i do i will test a few of the other yeasts out first. i think london ale 1098.


----------



## hazard

I have just read this with some concern as my next beer I have planned is a Fullers ESB clone with Wyeast 1968 yeast - got all the ingredients from Greensborough HBS last week and just waiting for the weekend to brew. According to all the info on this thread the yeast is highly flocculent - so my question is - if there isn't enough yeast in suspension to continue fermentation in the fermenter, will ther be enough for bottle carbonation? Will bulk priming work OK, it seems that racking off into another fermenter will leave all the yeast at the bottom of the first one??

Thanks foir any advice, Iwould appreciate feedback from those who have already brewed with this yeast.

Hazard


----------



## The King of Spain

hazard said:


> I have just read this with some concern as my next beer I have planned is a Fullers ESB clone with Wyeast 1968 yeast - got all the ingredients from Greensborough HBS last week and just waiting for the weekend to brew. According to all the info on this thread the yeast is highly flocculent - so my question is - if there isn't enough yeast in suspension to continue fermentation in the fermenter, will ther be enough for bottle carbonation? Will bulk priming work OK, it seems that racking off into another fermenter will leave all the yeast at the bottom of the first one??
> 
> Thanks foir any advice, Iwould appreciate feedback from those who have already brewed with this yeast.
> 
> Hazard




I have used Wyeast British ale with good results in an ESB several times. I get scared off by those sorts of attenuation results.


----------



## Goofinder

hazard said:


> Will bulk priming work OK, it seems that racking off into another fermenter will leave all the yeast at the bottom of the first one??


There will be enough yeast left. I've brewed 3 beers with 1968 and racked each of them after a couple of weeks then bulk primed after another couple. No problems carbing up.


----------



## fraser_john

Checked my ESB last night as the bubbling had settled right back to maybe 1 blurp per couple of minutes, reasonably clear, but gravity at 1.024!!

Put the electric blanket on it with a fridgemate, set temp to 21 degrees, added 1/8th teaspoon of DAP, swirled the fermenter around quite a lot and went back inside.

Got up this morning and fermenter is bubbling about once every 20 seconds now, so it looks like I have woken the sleeping yeast back up.

Tasting bloody brilliant though!


----------



## warra48

I love this yeast.
I fermented 3 batches in a row with it, and achieved from 78 to 81% apparent attenuation.

It does like to drop quickly in the fermenter, leaving very clear beer at bottling time. Rousing it does help as it goes along.
I've also found it takes it time to carb up, but rolling the bottles a couple of times in the first week to re-suspend the yeast, and keeping it at 20C or a little higher all seem to help. Even so, they've taken 4 to 5 weeks to get there in the bottle.

Can't complain about the taste of the beer. I still have a starter split left, so I can build it up again. Definitely one I'll use again.


----------



## fraser_john

warra48 said:


> I fermented 3 batches in a row with it



Yup, I have a porter planned that I am just going to dump right onto the yeast cake after racking.


----------



## Thirsty Boy

I bet people have made beers by dumping onto a whole cake of this ... but I'd be prepared for a bit of a yeast explosion. This stuff ferments hard and fast (well until it drops off at around 1.020 anyway...) and using a whole cake as the starter is going to make for one hell of a running start for your batch.

My guess is yeast on the floor and terminal gravity in about 3 days flat unless you take precautions.


----------



## fraser_john

might start fermentation off at 17 degrees then for the first few days!


----------



## cdbrown

I just brewed an ESB on this stuff - left it to it's own devices and it dropped from 1.053 to 1.015 without any help. Must have done it within a day or so as it wasn't long before the cold nights kicked in dropping the fridge temp down to 15. Thankfully it had fermented out and was actually a grav point lower than beersmith predicted. Now to rack onto gelatine and keg in a few days.


----------



## jimi

If I was stuck on a desert island with abundant malt, water and hops, and could only choose one yeast, this would be the yeast I'd choose to be stuck with. We do get to choose these things right!
Hope the brew is a blinder FJ


----------



## Pumpy

jimi said:


> If I was stuck on a desert island with abundant malt, water and hops, and could only choose one yeast, this would be the yeast I'd choose to be stuck with. We do get to choose these things right!
> Hope the brew is a blinder FJ




Thats a rap .

So Jimi what is the secret to getting attenuation with this yeast?

Pumpy


----------



## gap

I have a glass of London Porter ( a Fullers Recipe for a 1880's Porter using 500g of Brown Malt)
in front of me now. I used 1968 for this brew.This started at 1052 and ended at 1012 after 5 days at 18C. Did nothing special
except fermentation was controlled using an insulated fermentor , a heat belt and a fridgemate. It gets COLD
up here in Mt Victoria at this time of year.

By the way the beer tastes very nice if I do say so myself.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## Gavo

Drinking my Red Dogwood Ale fermented with 1968 right now. It went from 1048 to 1018 in five days at 18.5 degrees C, I racked it and gave it a stir after another two days and then let it sit at 20 degrees C for another four days before crash chilling. I was well and ready to give it a stir every day but didn't need to. This yeast flocks out so well that I didn't bother with gelatin and just used polyclar. Bottle conditioned with no problem also. 
Taste :icon_drool2: Best English bitter I've done yet.


Cheers
Gavo.


----------



## jimi

Pumpy said:


> Thats a rap .
> 
> So Jimi what is the secret to getting attenuation with this yeast?
> 
> Pumpy



Pumpy - This puppy loves a good size starter and I often pitch on past cakes in subsequent beers. My last outing with this I did a mild then, ESB the Oatmeal Stout (2 pitches on to cakes). It's in it's nature to leave a "little" residual sweetness, but I've always had it finish at the higher end of it's atten. specs. I find it quite flexible too, in that it can be quite neutral at the lower temp ranges and richer and more esters at the higher temps. My fave APAs have been made with this as well as dark brits (though I like my APAs with a bit more AAA character).
I've never used any nutrient with this yeast and haven't seen the need.
I reserve the right to fall in love with other yeast, but 1968 is my island sweet heart ATM


----------



## cdbrown

I've just racked onto gelatine in a spare fermenter after a few days of it sitting at 3C - this stuff clumps up and really needs a fair amount of agitation to get it into a slurry. Not had this happen with other yeasts.


----------



## Sammus

cdbrown said:


> I've just racked onto gelatine in a spare fermenter after a few days of it sitting at 3C - this stuff clumps up and really needs a fair amount of agitation to get it into a slurry. Not had this happen with other yeasts.



oh yeah, won't find much (if any) that flocs harder than this. Favourite yeast of mine. Not that I've tried them all, or even that many, but this is my favourite so far.


----------



## winkle

I've always felt that my bitters were just missing the mark with dried yeasts, got to say I'm impressed with the special bitter I've just kegged up using this yeast, just what I was after. Now to try it in a mild (because its there)  .


----------



## bear09

Hi All.

Just finished fermenting my first batch with 1968 last night and got 73% attenuation (1056 to 1015). Its rated to 72% on the Wyeast web site and many people on this forum have reported issues with this baby leaving the party early so I am happy.

I tasted my hydrometer sample and I am very exited about this brew. I cant wait until its aged a week or so and carbed up - it was like a malt sandwich.

I took peoples advice and stepped the temp up as fermentation went on - 2 days at 18, 2 days at 19.5, 2 days at 21 with constant swirling (morning noon and night) and then 22 for 5 days without swirling.

Yeast flocc'ed and dropped out clean as promised by Wyeast - everything going to plan with this yeast so far.


----------



## Pennywise

Love 1968 :icon_drool2: mmmm malty, personally I've never had an issue with it, always ferments out, and don't really ramp the temp up at all. Am thinking about blending with 1469, first blend ever, but I love both of em'


----------



## Bribie G

PW, have you had a look at the new Jamil / White yeast book yet? They mention using two yeasts - the first yeast gives the flavour characteristics then adding a second, more attenuating yeast can give you a drier beer to boot. I'd look at a 1968 / Nottingham partnership where you wouldn't (theoretically) get the flavour stripping or 'dustiness' of the Nottingham.


----------



## Pennywise

Not yet Bribie, it's on it's way though, I ordered it last week. I like what you're suggesting though, it's on the cards now, but I'll have to wait till' my next order from wherever cause I gots no nott


----------



## Aus_Rider_22

Thirsty Boy said:


> The 1968 is notorious for packing up its bat and ball and heading for the bottom at just about 1.020. Especially if you dare to let the temperature drop.
> 
> You have done what it is that most people will recommend, warm up the fermentor and give it a swirl. You will need to keep it at 21-22 and probably have to swirl it a couple of times a day, but those few point will most likely drop off.
> 
> I treat it the same way I used to treat safale S04 which behaved in the same way - I watch the fermentation, and as soon as the Krausen starts to back off (maybe day three?)I start to give the fermentor a swirl every day and put up the temperature by a degree each day till I get to 22. Where I keep it, swirling 1 or two times a day, till its done.
> 
> Nice yeast, but a little fussy.



Sorry for dredging up an old thread. 

I used this yeast for the first time just over a week ago in an English Bitter. Just checked a hydro sample to see if she's done and it's at 1.020. This was half expected as the temps have been only getting to 17-18, at most, lately. The temp controller has hardly been kicking in. I am putting a light bulb in for a few hours and it should bring the temps up around 20-21ish from experience. For a contrast, my bits n pieces IPA with US-05 that was pitched at the same time is down to the expected FG.

Should I still give it a swirl or 2? I tasted the sample and tasted pretty nice. A touch sweet as you would expect but still very good IMO and I am thinking about just chilling and polyclar'ing it going from there. Or would that be poor form for the style?

Cheers!


----------



## razz

Aus_Rider_22 said:


> Sorry for dredging up an old thread.
> 
> I used this yeast for the first time just over a week ago in an English Bitter. Just checked a hydro sample to see if she's done and it's at 1.020. This was half expected as the temps have been only getting to 17-18, at most, lately. The temp controller has hardly been kicking in. I am putting a light bulb in for a few hours and it should bring the temps up around 20-21ish from experience. For a contrast, my bits n pieces IPA with US-05 that was pitched at the same time is down to the expected FG.
> 
> Should I still give it a swirl or 2? I tasted the sample and tasted pretty nice. A touch sweet as you would expect but still very good IMO and I am thinking about just chilling and polyclar'ing it going from there. Or would that be poor form for the style?
> 
> Cheers!


You will need to take consecutive hydro readings to determine if it has stalled, if it has then give it a gentle swirl. The other things your doing still stand. You didn't mention the starting gravity?


----------



## Aus_Rider_22

razz said:


> You will need to take consecutive hydro readings to determine if it has stalled, if it has then give it a gentle swirl. The other things your doing still stand. You didn't mention the starting gravity?



OG was 1.051. I do remember reading that this is a low attenuating yeast as well. I will give another hydro tomorrow after the increase in temp. If no change then I am leaning towards chilling and then onto the keg.


----------



## Gavo

This yeast loves to drop out and sit on the bottom, so give it a swirl. I haven't done a bitter in some time but when I was using this yeast it was a daily ritual to go out to the fermenter fridge and give the fermenter a swirl until it stopped dropping in gravity points.

BTW it's dropping out makes it a very easy yeast to harvest.

Cheers
Gavo


----------



## felten

You can get pretty high attenuation out of this yeast, I've got ~80% when I've used it, keep swirling it up once or twice a day as said above. I'd suggest taking a fast ferment sample as well to give you a decent idea of the FG.


----------



## mje1980

I use lots ok UK yeasties, and i swirl them all. Just a habit, especially in cool weather. Rarely finish above 1.010. I just bottled a 1.078 Baltic porter at 1.016 with 1318 london ale 3. Bringing it up to temp is a great idea, it should finish off for you.


----------



## RobW

BribieG said:


> PW, have you had a look at the new Jamil / White yeast book yet? They mention using two yeasts - the first yeast gives the flavour characteristics then adding a second, more attenuating yeast can give you a drier beer to boot. I'd look at a 1968 / Nottingham partnership where you wouldn't (theoretically) get the flavour stripping or 'dustiness' of the Nottingham.



Fox brewery in Norfolk UK does this using a mix of SO4 & Nottingham


----------



## Danwood

I've just checked my 1968 starter which has been going for 24hrs. It's my first use of a liquid yeast so I need some reassurance please !

I know this is a very flocculent strain, but on turning the stir plate off, the yeast dropped instantly!

It had formed krausen yesterday, very soon after pitching, so it was busy. It dropped in a slightly granular layer, now settled in the fine, milky sludge I'm used to seeing.

I'm sure it's fine...just a few replies of (hopefully) 'fine' will do, thanks gents.

Dan


----------



## Bats

Danwood said:


> I've just checked my 1968 starter which has been going for 24hrs. It's my first use of a liquid yeast so I need some reassurance please !
> 
> I know this is a very flocculent strain, but on turning the stir plate off, the yeast dropped instantly!
> 
> It had formed krausen yesterday, very soon after pitching, so it was busy. It dropped in a slightly granular layer, now settled in the fine, milky sludge I'm used to seeing.
> 
> I'm sure it's fine...just a few replies of (hopefully) 'fine' will do, thanks gents.
> 
> Dan


It will be fine.

It will go to work on your wort nice and quickly when you pitch it.

I've never had any problems with this strain. Got another ESB going now on a yeast cake of this stuff.


----------



## verysupple

Thirsty Boy said:


> I bet people have made beers by dumping onto a whole cake of this ... but I'd be prepared for a bit of a yeast explosion. This stuff ferments hard and fast (well until it drops off at around 1.020 anyway...) and using a whole cake as the starter is going to make for one hell of a running start for your batch.
> 
> My guess is yeast on the floor and terminal gravity in about 3 days flat unless you take precautions.


I pitched a small (1.3L as per MrMalty) starter of 1968 on Sunday into 23L of 1.046 and hit FG in ~56 hours. Aside from the fact that over pitching (using a whole yeast cake is way over pitching) isn't very good for the beer, I'm with Thirsty Boy on this one - yeast everywhere or at least a sub-optimum beer.


----------



## Danwood

Cheers, Bats.

She's away now, swimming through 28L Oatmeal Stout wort....in a 30L fermenter ! Only 3-4L wiggle room :unsure:

I'm regretting being greedy with the larger volume of this batch....is 1968 particularly krausen-y ?

It smelled beautifully coffee-ish / treacly on the way in....that malt flavour should carry through nicely, from what I've read about this yeast.


----------



## verysupple

Danwood said:


> is 1968 particularly krausen-y ?


In my experience it's not as flat as, say, 1056. But it's definitely not as "krausen-y" as a weizen yeast. Others may agree or disagree but that's what I've found. 

In the end, you're probably fine with 3-4L headspace in a 30L fermentor.

EDIT: typos


----------



## Danwood

Nope, not as bad as a Weizen yeast, I agree, but it still managed to bust out the glad wrap and colonise the bottom of the ferm. fridge!!

Smells great though, so all is forgiven 1968.


----------



## Stouter

I was very worried yesterday after pitching this into a heavy ESB without a starter. Came back after about 12 hours and no action, gave it a stir at 15 hours, bumped up to 19C, and yes, finally showing signs of life. I can see this baby will need some extra attention to get it across the line.
Starters will be standard for me from now on.


----------

