# Yeast Nutrient.....when To Add?



## einnebcj (7/12/12)

Hi all
Doing my second BIAB tonight (mashing as we speak) and its the Parched as Bro Pale ale. It calls for Yeast Nutrient - which I've not used before. So when (how) do I add it?
CheersChris.


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## labels (7/12/12)

einnebcj said:


> Hi all
> Doing my second BIAB tonight (mashing as we speak) and its the Parched as Bro Pale ale. It calls for Yeast Nutrient - which I've not used before. So when (how) do I add it?
> CheersChris.



You add it to the primary (fermenter) but, WoW! I've been making beers all these years without it. I don't know how I got away with it.


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## Florian (7/12/12)

Haven't seen a yeast nutrient yet that recommends to be added to primary.

Most should be added in the last 10 minutes of your boil. Some should be disolved in warm water beforehand.

Your package _should_ come with some sort of instructions. What brand is it and where did you get it from?


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## Helles (7/12/12)

Last 10-15 min of boil Mate


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## labels (7/12/12)

Florian said:


> Haven't seen a yeast nutrient yet that recommends to be added to primary.
> 
> Most should be added in the last 10 minutes of your boil. Some should be disolved in warm water beforehand.
> 
> Your package _should_ come with some sort of instructions. What brand is it and where did you get it from?



NOT speaking from experience of course, I've only used it once and that was a mead which is not boiled of course, just dissolve in boiling and add to fermenter. It'll probably work this way for beer as well. Nutrient was (IIRC) diammonium phoshate I think.


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## Truman42 (7/12/12)

einnebcj said:


> Hi all
> Doing my second BIAB tonight (mashing as we speak) and its the Parched as Bro Pale ale. It calls for Yeast Nutrient - which I've not used before. So when (how) do I add it?
> CheersChris.



I brewed the parched as bro pale ale last night and used yeast nutrient for the first time. The instructions said to mix 1/2 a teaspoon with warm water and pour in with ten minutes left of the boil. I threw mine in the boil along with my whirlfoc tablet.

EDIT: Thats 1/2 a teaspoon for 19 litres. YMMV


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## wraith (7/12/12)

Around 10 mins to go in boil, No need to dissolve.

Wraith


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## einnebcj (7/12/12)

Cheers guys. Will chuck it in with a bit of warm water when I add the Whirfloc.


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## fcmcg (7/12/12)

labels said:


> NOT speaking from experience of course, I've only used it once and that was a mead which is not boiled of course, just dissolve in boiling and add to fermenter. It'll probably work this way for beer as well. Nutrient was (IIRC) diammonium phoshate I think.


Not having a go but why would you dispense advice when clearly you do not know , by your own admition , how to use it...
Maybe in the future , give advice your familiar with...
Poor bloody newbs don't need advice like this....
To the op...
If you buy wyeast yeast nutrient , it says on the bottle to add in the last 10 min of the boil ...and to me mate above...Most beer nutrient is zinc heavy...not sure it's a phosphate ....


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## wraith (7/12/12)

+1 to above post

Don't advice other people if you don't know yourself, misinformation is poison!


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## bum (7/12/12)

wraith said:


> Don't advice other people if you don't know yourself, misinformation is poison!


Time to shut the board down, Dane.


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## labels (7/12/12)

fergthebrewer said:


> Not having a go but why would you dispense advice when clearly you do not know , by your own admition , how to use it...
> Maybe in the future , give advice your familiar with...
> Poor bloody newbs don't need advice like this....
> To the op...
> If you buy wyeast yeast nutrient , it says on the bottle to add in the last 10 min of the boil ...and to me mate above...Most beer nutrient is zinc heavy...not sure it's a phosphate ....



Although I mostly agree with your statement _especially_ since there are new brewers involved, I did say I had experience with using a nutrient in a mead which is not boiled. Best advice is from the manufacturer. However, If you do add it at a later stage, is there really any difference? That is aside from the posssible infection if it's not sterile etc. I'm not getting into a flame war, it's just silly. If Wyeast say add into boil last 10mins, just do it. But (for example) if I forgot, I would add to the fermenter and no doubt the results would end up the same. 

Because a new brewer is involved and asked the question, I'll bow out on this one because experienced brewers know what they can get away with, new brewers do not so I apologise to the OP.

-=Steve=-


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## Thefatdoghead (7/12/12)

labels said:


> NOT speaking from experience of course, I've only used it once and that was a mead which is not boiled of course, just dissolve in boiling and add to fermenter. It'll probably work this way for beer as well. Nutrient was (IIRC) diammonium phoshate I think.



Your thinking of yeast energiser not nutrient which are 2 different things.


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## Midnight Brew (7/12/12)

I have heard the warm water trick but its not on my instructions. Ive got the bintani variety which is 10mins before the end of the boil. Its made of mostly zinc and smells like old vegemite.


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## labels (7/12/12)

Gav80 said:


> Your thinking of yeast energiser not nutrient which are 2 different things.



I've never heard of that. It was sold to me as a nutrient and the packet clearly stated yeast nutrient. I used it in a mead because honey is very low on mineral nutrients and was advised by Lallemand Yeast to use it.

Wikipedia says it's a fertiliser and used in mead does not say anything about any other alcoholic beverages.

I've never had a problem brewing beer without a nutrient so it makes me wonder how neccessary it really is.


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## Florian (7/12/12)

fergthebrewer said:


> If you buy wyeast yeast nutrient , it says on the bottle to add in the last 10 min of the boil ...



And it also says to dissolve in warm water beforehand. Which I have only done for the first time on my last brew and WOW what a difference that made :lol:


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## Midnight Brew (7/12/12)

labels said:


> I've never had a problem brewing beer without a nutrient so it makes me wonder how neccessary it really is.




Its one of those things. If you can afford it and get yours hands on it, its going to be alot more beneficial then not using it. I only started using it when I went all grain, so cant comment on yeasts performance without it. For minimal cost per batch increase, your still better off then buying pints at your local. $49 for a 900g pack of Wyeast nutirent, small price to pay for happy yeast. Even split it with another brewer and you've got plenty to use. Why not?


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## stux (8/12/12)

Midnight Brew said:


> Its one of those things. If you can afford it and get yours hands on it, its going to be alot more beneficial then not using it. I only started using it when I went all grain, so cant comment on yeasts performance without it. For minimal cost per batch increase, your still better off then buying pints at your local. $49 for a 900g pack of Wyeast nutirent, small price to pay for happy yeast. Even split it with another brewer and you've got plenty to use. Why not?



Because craftbrewer were out 

The non-wyeast variety from CB smells like Vegemite and has a tendency to clumps. The wyeast one has less of a smell and pours better. 

DAP, diamonium phosphate, often sold as yeast nutrient and I think energizer is just one yeast nutrient, where as the others are complete nutrient collections. Much like multivitamins


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## Spiesy (8/12/12)

einnebcj said:


> Cheers guys. Will chuck it in with a bit of warm water when I add the Whirfloc.


That's it.


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## Spiesy (8/12/12)

Stux said:


> The non-wyeast variety from CB smells like Vegemite and has a tendency to clumps. The wyeast one has less of a smell and pours better.


To clump in what? The pack, or your brew?

I have CB variety, haven't had an issue. I keep the pack sealed, and stored in the fridge with the BrewBrite.


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