# Wyyeast



## lukec (27/11/11)

How many pkts American ale 1056 would I use for a 32 litre batch, can someone please let me know


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## Bribie G (27/11/11)

If pitching directly I'd tend to use 2 packs. However that's expensive and you might want to wade through this thread if you have a cut lunch and a guide dog available.

What I'd do is smack the pack and let it swell, then breed it up for about 48 hours in a glass jar in a litre of 1040 wort made from 100g of LDME in a litre of boiled / cooled water. Shake to aerate and keep at around 20. When the yeast has dropped to a white layer at the bottom of your sterile container pour off the top layer and pitch the white stuff. Hopefully it will have multiplied up to heaps for the 32L batch.


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## kevin_smevin (27/11/11)

Bribie G said:


> If pitching directly I'd tend to use 2 packs. However that's expensive and you might want to wade through this thread if you have a cut lunch and a guide dog available.
> 
> What I'd do is smack the pack and let it swell, then breed it up for about 48 hours in a glass jar in a litre of 1040 wort made from 100g of LDME in a litre of boiled / cooled water. Shake to aerate and keep at around 20. When the yeast has dropped to a white layer at the bottom of your sterile container pour off the top layer and pitch the white stuff. Hopefully it will have multiplied up to heaps for the 32L batch.




You'd need to know that OG of your brew. 1048 would give about a 5-5.2% beer. In that case you would need 288 billion cells - 3 packs.

To work out recomended pitching rate:

750 000 cells (for ales) x ml of beer x degree plato (approx SG/4)

Need to use twice as much for lagers

Hope that helps


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## MaltyHops (27/11/11)

Since building my own stirplate (_TASP. #735_), I've been looking through
the thread BG listed above and one of the things about the MrMalty yeast
pitching rate calculator that mystified me was how they can relate starter
volume to the amount of yeast produced as there seemed to be many
variables involved.

Reading through the _MrMalty Proper Yeast Pitching Rates_ page, it's stated
"There just isn't enough food to build that much yeast, no matter how much
O2 and nutrient you add to it" the penny dropped that by sticking to a consistent
1040 wort for starters, a fixed volume of that (1litre say) has a fixed amount of
food (malt sugars) in it and hence a maximum number of yeast that can grow
from it. So if conditions are right (lots of 02 in wort), the yeast will reproduce the
max number possible (rather than making alcohol & CO2).

_How To Brew: Chapter 6 - Yeast: 6.5 Preparing Yeast and Yeast Starters_ and the
page following are also a good read on yeast starters.

T.


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## Bribie G (27/11/11)

That's what the guy from Whitelabs said in his lecture at the Queensland Home Brewing Conference. You don't want fermentation happening, you want growth, so you give the yeast a limited amount of food and it uses that to breed rather than make grog. If you give it too much, or too strong, it says "all's good, let's make some piss" instead of budding off new yeasties.


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## stux (27/11/11)

Neat multi step starter calculator
http://yeastcalc.summitwoodwork.com/

Personally, I'd just toss in a packet (or two) of US05

(and I'm currently spinning up my last Wy1056.... Ever)


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## Bribie G (27/11/11)

How come, stux? I rather like Wy1056 compared to the dried, always have a bottle of trub or a smacko in the fridge, I find it's a lot cleaner and finishes quicker than the dried.


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## lukec (27/11/11)

Thanks for the advice, I realized halfway through boil I only had 30 litre fermenters. Decided to finish and slit wort between 2 and just 1 pkt per fermenter.
That's what happens when you get excited.


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## stux (27/11/11)

Bribie G said:


> How come, stux? I rather like Wy1056 compared to the dried, always have a bottle of trub or a smacko in the fridge, I find it's a lot cleaner and finishes quicker than the dried.



It might do, but I'm not sure its worth it.

I've just done 3 1056 brews and 2 US 05 brews in a row... and well... I'm not sure I can really tell them apart. Bout to do the last 1056.

I'm trying some alternatives now... plan to work my way through 1272, Norwest Ale, Sierra Super etc, trying to find a fruity hoppy neutral yeast which drops clear


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## MaltyHops (27/11/11)

Also came across a Wyeast page _Yeast Harvesting / Re-Pitching_
containing a way of estimating how many yeast cells might be
present in a sample as follows:





T


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## peaky (27/11/11)

Stux said:


> It might do, but I'm not sure its worth it.
> 
> I've just done 3 1056 brews and 2 US 05 brews in a row... and well... I'm not sure I can really tell them apart. Bout to do the last 1056.
> 
> I'm trying some alternatives now... plan to work my way through 1272, Norwest Ale, Sierra Super etc, trying to find a fruity hoppy neutral yeast which drops clear



Same here.
I've done heaps of beers with 1056 and us-05 and I'm just getting started with 1272. Bottled a beer with 1272 today, 2 days at cc temp with no polyclar or racking and the beer is clear going into the bottle! Looking forward to the tasting... :chug:


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## stux (5/1/12)

peakydh said:


> Same here.
> I've done heaps of beers with 1056 and us-05 and I'm just getting started with 1272. Bottled a beer with 1272 today, 2 days at cc temp with no polyclar or racking and the beer is clear going into the bottle! Looking forward to the tasting... :chug:



I'll be kegging my first 1272 brew around this weekend. Looking forward to it 

I'm hoping it tastes great and has dropped crystal clear... been CCing for the last week at 0.5C or so!


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## Adam Howard (5/1/12)

1272 is a cracker yeast, great profile, doesn't produce strange flavours even if fermented at 23-24 degrees (accidentally) and flocculates like an english yeast.

Have you tried this yeast Stux? Dry 1056


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## sama (6/1/12)

Adamski29 said:


> Have you tried this yeast Stux? Dry 1056



its fermentis us05 repackaged


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## stux (6/1/12)

Adamski29 said:


> 1272 is a cracker yeast, great profile, doesn't produce strange flavours even if fermented at 23-24 degrees (accidentally) and flocculates like an english yeast.
> 
> Have you tried this yeast Stux? Dry 1056



I would expect that to just be Us-05


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## stuart13 (8/1/12)

Adamski29 said:


> 1272 is a cracker yeast, great profile, doesn't produce strange flavours even if fermented at 23-24 degrees (accidentally) and flocculates like an english yeast.



Topic heading south at a fair rate of knots - 1272 is my favorite for APA's - a touch fruitier than 1056. As suggested above, clears real well too..


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## WitWonder (8/1/12)

stuart13 said:


> Topic heading south at a fair rate of knots - 1272 is my favorite for APA's - a touch fruitier than 1056. As suggested above, clears real well too..


I heartily recommend and/or endorse this product. 

There is only one choice with IPA/APA's as far as I'm concerned.


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## mika (9/1/12)

Used to use 1272 all the time, as soon as I started piling heaps of hops into my beer I suffered all sorts of attenuation problems with 1272, even with decent sized starters and aeration. Have since had good results with Pacman yeast (seasonal release) and recently purchased liquid 1056 to replace it, but yet to try it out.
Conducted a side by side with 1272 and US-05. Everyone who tried it at the club preferred the US-05 (blind tasting, apart from telling people the two samples were with different yeasts, didn't tell them which though I think ?), though I personally preferred the 1272.

Probably further OT, but there ya go.


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