# Build/buy a wooden grain mill base "For Dummies"?



## slash22000 (27/4/13)

Okay so, as somebody who has never so much as nailed two bits of wood together, where would I start learning how to make my own grain mill base? Or, even easier, buy one?

I have a "Malt Muncher" mill with a power drill I use to turn it, that I've just sort of been balancing over a bucket with a second set of hands helping to hold it steady, but I will be starting all-grain brewing this month (finally!) and I can see it becoming a huge pain in the arse. It's annoying enough to put through 300 - 400 grams of specialty malts, let alone 6kg of base malt as well.

I've seen pages like this guy's but it looks like he's building a rocket ship or something, with computer software designs etc ... Goes to show my ignorance when I can't even figure out WTF he is saying in the "basic tips" section.



> When cutting the plywood use a marking knife to score the outer ply of the plywood along your cutline. Keep your blade on the waste side of your scored line and you’ll end up with nice clean cuts without splintered faces.


 :huh:

Is there a "For Dummies" guide anywhere!? It seems like everybody on the planet has one of these wooden mill bases, are you all carpenters or what!?


----------



## sp0rk (27/4/13)

buy some MDF
measure a circle about 2 inches bigger than the diameter of your handypail (or whatever you're millinginto)
cut the circle out with a jigsaw/bandsaw/etc...
take 3 or 4 small plastic feet (get them at bunnings, they're fastened with screws) measure where you'll need to place them so that they sit just inside the bucket and the circle of MDF sits evenly over the top of the bucket
screw the plastic feet down where you've measured they should be
sit your mill on top of the piece of wood and figure out where is a good spot for the mill to be sitting (move it round a bit)
trace round mill where ever you've decided to put it
measure the thickness of the mill's side bits and add another 5-10mm, measure that far in from the outline you've drawn and draw your new smaller rectangle
take a large drill bit and drill just inside each corner of your smaller rectangle
grab your jigsaw and cut out the smaller rectangle
sand all edges back smooth with some sandpaper
measure up where the mounting screws need to be for the mill, drill the approriate size hole and mount the mill (i used m10 hex head bolts)
sit back and admire your handiwork

Tried to make this as simple as possible, let me know if you're still confused


----------



## sp0rk (27/4/13)

and






There you go champ


*ninja edit*
Just a tip for getting the feet in the right spot, put a ball of blutack under each one and reposition them till they're in just the right spot, then trace round them with a pencil
remove the blutack, put them back in the traced circle and screw them down


----------



## QldKev (27/4/13)

Hope billygoat doesn't mind me posting a pic of his setup.




Rather than having a motor there, you would put your drill there.



Otherwise check out my basic hopper design on my website qldkev.net

It's easy to build and has lasted me a few years now


QldKev


----------



## bradsbrew (27/4/13)

QldKev said:


> Hope billygoat doesn't mind me posting a pic of his setup.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Which motor is that one Kev?


----------



## QldKev (27/4/13)

bradsbrew said:


> Which motor is that one Kev?


It's an Oatley motor, 12vdc / 250w. Checkout the full details/specs from my website under mill motor. They are getting harder to get and I think the motion dynamics version is priced not that much more if you don't get the optional controller, which I don't think you really need, and it has more torque.


QldKev


----------



## Edak (27/4/13)

I think some of you other guys are getting confused because the OP wants to use his drill, but can't really do so any better than he can with his current set up. I built a simple, drill friendly mill and only required a few screws, a piece of 18mm plywood for the frame and some 4mm plywood to level the drill. First have a look at the gallery.

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/album/981-malt-muncher-motorised-grain-mill/

Basically, I measured the height of my bucket and cut the sides and top to accommodate (sides measure 600x325, top measures 600x365). I have one cross-beam underneath to make the whole structure more rigid and to give a back plate so I can easily push the bucket in and when it hits the back-plate it's in place. Screw together as shown.

My drill required the mill to sit higher and so I raised it a little using some other 30mm pine that I had laying around, in which I cut a matching hole to that of the mill. Because 30mm made the mill a little too high I used some ply to raise the drill by a few mm (not the ideal method but easiest for me). Align everything so that the drill and mill will sit nicely, then measure and cut the hole in the top of your "box", again to match the size of the hole in the mill.

once everything is cut, just finish screwing it all together. I am lucky that my drill has a hole for a bolt so I could bolt it directly to the wooden platform.


----------



## citizensnips (27/4/13)

I bought this long bit of board which I only needed about 1/4 of, it costs $6 from bunnings, took the mill with me and worked out what screws were needed while I was there. Jig sawed a rough circle the diameter of the fermenter out of the timber....making it a little bigger for stability and to screw the L brackets into. Measured the gap of the mill and cut it out, measured the two holes, drilled them out and screwed them in to the mill on top. Then just stuck L brackets on about .5cm out of the diameter to hold it in place when it sits on the fermenter.
these photos will give you an idea.......not the best job but works a treat.


----------



## lukasfab (27/4/13)

can you buy just the hopper anywhere?


----------



## slash22000 (27/4/13)

Thanks for all the ideas guys. Seems like it's not too hard once you put it into plain language.

Edak it looks like we're using the exact same mill and exact same drill as each other. Unfortunately space is at a premium, I brew in a small unit, I dunno where I would keep an assembly like that. I'm resigned to having to hold the drill the entire time unless anybody has any other great ideas. Probably not a huge deal it shouldn't take THAT long to mill grain for a single batch.


----------



## lukiferj (27/4/13)

I have the same mill too. MDF over a bucket like sp0rk. I was even lazier and didn't shape the MDF into a circle. Takes around 5 mins to mill a single batch of grain by hand. Would assume the drill would be a touch quicker than that.


----------



## MaltyHops (27/4/13)

Here's mine - looks like a little motor boat



_[zoom]_



sp0rk said:


> buy some MDF.
> ...


Even better would be to get some thick (2cm or more) polyethylene board - like a big cutting board or go to a plastics specialist store. I plan to do this for mine - a bit more sanitary than MDF.


----------



## Edak (27/4/13)

slash22000 said:


> Thanks for all the ideas guys. Seems like it's not too hard once you put it into plain language.
> 
> Edak it looks like we're using the exact same mill and exact same drill as each other. Unfortunately space is at a premium, I brew in a small unit, I dunno where I would keep an assembly like that. I'm resigned to having to hold the drill the entire time unless anybody has any other great ideas. Probably not a huge deal it shouldn't take THAT long to mill grain for a single batch.


Ah, a space issue... I am lucky to be in a unit that has a big garage. 

It's not really all that hard to hold a drill is it? Go with one of the simple builds above. You will have to hold that drill carefully though


----------



## MaltyGoodness (6/6/13)

Just put together this simple mill setup.

Bunnings kids table - $12.50
Mill from Gryphon Brewing - $155

20 lt bucket fits perfectly under table


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies (6/6/13)

sp0rk said:


> and
> 
> 
> 
> ...


And three feet are enough, no need for four.
Nev


----------



## sp0rk (6/6/13)

Gryphon Brewing said:


> And three feet are enough, no need for four.
> Nev


Yeah, the pack came with 4 and I figured I wouldn't use the 4th anywhere else so just used it


----------



## angus_grant (6/6/13)

I note that a couple of guys have just straight attached their drills to the mill shaft. What does the end of the shaft look like? I was going to hook up my mill to a bicycle-powered setup, but think I'll just get a hammer-drill from Aldi this weekend and set that up. I was picturing lovejoy couplings, etc, etc.

Do I just get someone to cut off the end of the round part of the shaft so the flat is exposed and the drill will clamp on? I got a mill with a tiny handle so it is VERY hard work to mill a batch of grain.


----------



## slash22000 (6/6/13)

MaltyGoodness said:


> Just put together this simple mill setup.
> 
> Bunnings kids table - $12.50
> Mill from Gryphon Brewing - $155
> ...


This appeals greatly to the lazy bastard in me. Might have to look into this. :lol:


----------



## Florian (6/6/13)

I've used a piece of chipboard for years, just cut a whole for the mill and drill a few holes for the bolts. Sit it on a few milk crates or boxes or whatever and you're good to go.

All you need is a piece of wood, a drill and a jig saw that costs around $30 and comes in handy on all sorts of projects. Or just use a hack saw, $6.

Pictures

Only now I'm in the process of upgrading the stand and adding a motor etc.


----------



## billygoat (6/6/13)

QldKev said:


> Hope billygoat doesn't mind me posting a pic of his setup.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No worries Kev, it now has a 30A supply on it rather than the battery.


----------



## QldKev (6/6/13)

billygoat said:


> No worries Kev, it now has a 30A supply on it rather than the battery.


Mine's still ticking away somehow with the 8amp psu, one day it will go into melt down and get a decent amperage.


----------



## Edak (6/6/13)

angus_grant said:


> I note that a couple of guys have just straight attached their drills to the mill shaft. What does the end of the shaft look like? I was going to hook up my mill to a bicycle-powered setup, but think I'll just get a hammer-drill from Aldi this weekend and set that up. I was picturing lovejoy couplings, etc, etc.
> 
> Do I just get someone to cut off the end of the round part of the shaft so the flat is exposed and the drill will clamp on? I got a mill with a tiny handle so it is VERY hard work to mill a batch of grain.


Hey Angus, 

It's got a small flat near the end, in text as a cross section it looks a little like this [_-_____] 
Sorry I don't have my camera handy, the SD card is in my raspberry pi.


----------



## angus_grant (6/6/13)

OK, so here is a photo of end of my mill shaft:





Are people taking off that little lip at the end to power them by a drill? This would mean that you would one complete flat side for the drill to clamp on to.

I doubt that clamping the drill onto the round shaft would work all that well once you threw grain into the mix.


----------



## MaltyGoodness (6/6/13)

angus_grant said:


> OK, so here is a photo of end of my mill shaft:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah that looks the same as my mill shaft. I just directly attach the drill to that. As long as the chuck is done up tight it will work fine. I havnt had any problems with it slipping while milling.


----------



## slash22000 (6/6/13)

Mine looks similar to that as well, I just shove the drill on there, never had it slip.


----------



## angus_grant (6/6/13)

huh, I'll be buggered then. I would have thought clamping the drill straight onto the round shaft would just slip when you started munching through the grain.

Huh, guess I'll just borrow the father in laws impact drill on Friday night to munch the grain. I doubt my cordless 12V drill would be able to power the mill. Will have to hurriedly fabricate a mill and drill stand.

Will look at buying a decent impact drill next month when I am a bit more financial. Aldi have a Taurus 1200W impact drill for sale this Saturday but the fact I can find no official Taurus website or manuals for it worries me a fair bit.

Sweet, thanks guys.

Edit: well I actually ended up finding the official Taurus website which is a big group of purchased companies but I still can't find the Taurus-branded drill. Think I'll give it a miss. If it seems to good to be true.....


----------



## slash22000 (6/6/13)

Many of us (myself included) use one of these: http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_ozito-1050w-spade-handle-drill_P6290127.aspx

Cheap (relatively) and has enough torque to use your first mill to crush a second mill.  120Nm of torque where most drills have something like 10 - 15.


----------



## bum (6/6/13)

angus_grant said:


> huh, I'll be buggered then. I would have thought clamping the drill straight onto the round shaft would just slip when you started munching through the grain.


What shape do you reckon drill bits are?


----------



## angus_grant (7/6/13)

Bam, quick 15 minute job tonight to knock up a base and mount the mill




Borrowed the father in laws impact drill to crush the grain for tomorrow mornings Belgian Triple. 8kg of grain.

Just clamped the drill straight onto the mill shaft. Have yet to run grain through it, but turns the mill pretty easily. Hope it works.... :-O

Will leave buying the drill until next month and grab an Ozito from Bunnings. I can't find the official website or any user manuals for the Taurus from Aldi so think I'll give it a miss.


----------



## Florian (7/6/13)

you generally won't find any official website or manual for aldi products as they're generic, rebranded products, or produced specifically for aldi.

Taurus is their tools brand, and it's unlike that all those products are made by the same manufacturer.

Doesn't mean they're bad. As someone else mentioned, as long as you still have the receipt they take anything back within 90 days, no matter what state it is in when you bring it back. And then there's the warranty.


----------



## TidalPete (7/6/13)

Angus,
My old Cranker has an hexagonal slot in the end of the shaft to facilitate an hexagonal bit that fits into the drill chuck.
If you don't have that then file/grind two flats opposite each other on the end of the shaft for your drill chuck to grip onto. Too easy mate.
Sorry in advance for the different old pics.
A holesaw bit for a standard door-knob set is a perfect size to accommodate one of thing spring water container thingos.


----------



## mash head (8/6/13)

Average drill chucks have 3 jaws so if you need to file the shaft to get more grip make it a multiple of 3 triangle or hexagon.


----------



## TidalPete (8/6/13)

mash head said:


> Average drill chucks have 3 jaws so if you need to file the shaft to get more grip make it a multiple of 3 triangle or hexagon.


Going by experience I find that 2 x flats is enough to get the chuck to grip onto round shafts. 
Of course, 3 x flats is more practical as mash head says. :icon_cheers:


----------



## Aydos (8/6/13)

My ozito drill grips onto my malt muncher drive shaft no dramas. Doesn't slip at all.


----------



## angus_grant (8/6/13)

Borrowed father in laws impact drill and gripped on to shaft. Blasted through 7kgs of grain in about 6 minutes. Took me longer to refill small hopper with grain than to mill it. Saweet!!!!!!!


----------



## angus_grant (8/6/13)

Just ramping up to boil on Nick JDs killer triple. Belgian triple. Should end out at 1080 or so. 1062 pre boil with 750 grams sugar still to add during boil so may end up over. Will wait until boil is finished before crunching numbers.


----------



## slash22000 (8/6/13)

Keep in mind mate you can mill too fast. You only want a few hundred RPM so it doesn't just turn to powder.


----------



## angus_grant (8/6/13)

yeh, I the drill borrowed has no speed control so I was very conscious of keeping the speed low on the drill. Came out looking like other grains I have had milled at HBS and hand-cranked on my mill.

The Ozito has the speed control so it will be easier to use. I can turn the speed controller on and just feed grain into the hopper.


----------



## sp0rk (10/6/13)

slash22000 said:


> Keep in mind mate you can mill too fast. You only want a few hundred RPM so it doesn't just turn to powder.


unless you're biab-ing and want to get rediculous efficiency (and a ton of trub)


----------



## Endo (11/6/13)

angus_grant said:


> OK, so here is a photo of end of my mill shaft:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Bugger was hoping it would be more of a hex shape. Could have used the 150nm torque dewalt impact driver then... Guess its the drill instead..

Of course it is possible all that torque is the reason why im going to kegking to get a new malt mill tonight... Cracked the plate on my corona style mill :blink:

Wouldn't routing in a gap for the bucket be more elegant a solution to keep the mill table in place?


----------



## jkr442 (15/8/13)

Can I just confirm what size screw / bolt size you guys are using to mount the mill to the wooden base? I can't seem to find it listed in the documentation that came with mine.


----------



## sp0rk (15/8/13)

10mm


----------



## jameson (5/9/13)

Is it 10 hex bolt to connect a mini mill to ply?


----------



## Camo6 (6/9/13)

If your still wondering mate, my mashmaster minimill has 1/4 inch threads in the main body. Easy to source ss bolts in 1/4" from the big green shed.


----------



## zach.lindstrom (19/2/20)

DIE!


----------



## wide eyed and legless (20/2/20)

zach.lindstrom said:


> DIE!


Yep, we all will one day. Not thinking of popping my clogs anytime soon.


----------



## Bob65 (20/2/20)

LOL

Interesting first post


----------



## wide eyed and legless (20/2/20)

Bob65 said:


> LOL
> 
> Interesting first post


I think he may be in the ill at ease league.


----------



## Bob65 (20/2/20)

wide eyed and legless said:


> I think he may be in the ill at ease league.



He needs a beer


----------



## Tomo (20/2/20)

No more like a great northern or maybe vb


----------

