# Brewing temp



## Jords84 (15/1/21)

Hi all. I’ve started a batch of pale ale beer following a recipe that I got from my brew shop to make lager. Using a pale ale mix with yeast provided in pack. Start temp was around 25, went to 28 max and I’ve made a rookie error after reading that lager should be much lower temp so dropped it down to19 degrees. Just realised it was a ale yeast and have started to raise temp back up. She reading was 1070 at Stewart and has been at 1030 for the last 2 days (when it was 19 degrees) airlock became quite inactive. Have I stuffed this batch up rendering it no good for consumption? Or is it worth persisting? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Help?


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## kadmium (15/1/21)

Jords84 said:


> Hi all. I’ve started a batch of pale ale beer following a recipe that I got from my brew shop to make lager. Using a pale ale mix with yeast provided in pack. Start temp was around 25, went to 28 max and I’ve made a rookie error after reading that lager should be much lower temp so dropped it down to19 degrees. Just realised it was a ale yeast and have started to raise temp back up. She reading was 1070 at Stewart and has been at 1030 for the last 2 days (when it was 19 degrees) airlock became quite inactive. Have I stuffed this batch up rendering it no good for consumption? Or is it worth persisting? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Help?


Hey mate. 25c is very high for any yeast, unless you are using Kveik which is more around 30-40c

A warm pitch can be beneficial (say 25c and cool down) I brew most of my ales around the 18c mark. I just finished a Russian Imeprial Stout that started at 1.096 and finished up at 1.020 going at 18c the whole way. I then raised it to 21c where it's sat for the last 4 or 5 days to encourage complete attenuation and finishing off. 

No, lowering to 19c didn't do anything bad, in fact it should have been around that temp the whole time. 

Not to say the batch is ruined, and also 1.030 is pretty high it may have stalled out. Consider buying a packet of us-05 dry yeast and pitching it straight in to try and finish it up.


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## Jords84 (15/1/21)

Thanks very much for the advice. So you reckon I should drop the temp back down to around 19 degrees or so? Checked sg this afternoon and it had dropped to 1020.


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## Jords84 (15/1/21)

It’s only been fermenting since Sunday afternoon (so 4 and a bit days)


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## Jords84 (16/1/21)

kadmium said:


> Hey mate. 25c is very high for any yeast, unless you are using Kveik which is more around 30-40c
> 
> A warm pitch can be beneficial (say 25c and cool down) I brew most of my ales around the 18c mark. I just finished a Russian Imeprial Stout that started at 1.096 and finished up at 1.020 going at 18c the whole way. I then raised it to 21c where it's sat for the last 4 or 5 days to encourage complete attenuation and finishing off.
> 
> ...





kadmium said:


> Hey mate. 25c is very high for any yeast, unless you are using Kveik which is more around 30-40c
> 
> A warm pitch can be beneficial (say 25c and cool down) I brew most of my ales around the 18c mark. I just finished a Russian Imeprial Stout that started at 1.096 and finished up at 1.020 going at 18c the whole way. I then raised it to 21c where it's sat for the last 4 or 5 days to encourage complete attenuation and finishing off.
> 
> ...


Thanks very much for the advice. So you reckon I should drop the temp back down to around 19 degrees or so? Checked sg yesterday afternoon and it had dropped to 1020. Has only been fermenting for just over 4 days


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## kadmium (16/1/21)

Jords84 said:


> Thanks very much for the advice. So you reckon I should drop the temp back down to around 19 degrees or so? Checked sg yesterday afternoon and it had dropped to 1020. Has only been fermenting for just over 4 days


Hey mate. I would back it down to 21 or so and leave it there. Essentially, the warmer the fermentation the more likely yeast are to be in a frenzy. This means they start producing esters, and other compounds which give off flavours. 

It's a balance between, warm enough that they do a good job, and not too cold that they go dormant or sluggish. Ale yeast should give off a little bit of yeast character, that's what makes them ales. But too warm, and you get things like Fusel Alcohols which lend that "hot" alcohol flavour like a paint stripper. 

It's most likely that the beer will still be drinkable, it just won't be as good as it could be. 

Generally speaking, I pitch the yeast when the beer is around 24 or 25, and cool it down in the fermenter fridge to 18. I let it ride at 18 for 3 days, then bump it up to 21 for 2 days. I then crash chill to 1 or 2c for a few days and keg (or bottle)

This is a rough method for standard ales where I may not he dry hopping etc. 

Lagers I pitch around 21c and drop to 14. I then let em ride for a week and slowly bump to 21 over 2 days. Then let sit for a few days and chill. 

So, in short I would probably back it down to 21c but most of the fermentation is already done.


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## Jords84 (16/1/21)

kadmium said:


> Hey mate. I would back it down to 21 or so and leave it there. Essentially, the warmer the fermentation the more likely yeast are to be in a frenzy. This means they start producing esters, and other compounds which give off flavours.
> 
> It's a balance between, warm enough that they do a good job, and not too cold that they go dormant or sluggish. Ale yeast should give off a little bit of yeast character, that's what makes them ales. But too warm, and you get things like Fusel Alcohols which lend that "hot" alcohol flavour like a paint stripper.
> 
> ...


Thanks very much again for the advice mate. I really appreciate it. You’ve given some solid advice for doing it better for the next batch. Cooling it back down today and will test the sg again this arvo. Is there any way to tell before the second fermentation is complete if it’s going to taste like paint stripper? Or anything I can do at this stage to prevent that flavour?


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## Jords84 (16/1/21)

Jords84 said:


> Thanks very much again for the advice mate. I really appreciate it. You’ve given some solid advice for doing it better for the next batch. Cooling it back down today and will test the sg again this arvo. Is there any way to tell before the second fermentation is complete if it’s going to taste like paint stripper? Or anything I can do at this stage to prevent that flavour?


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## CaptainMachSnot (16/1/21)

Hey mate, just taste what you pull out to do your hydrometer readings. It wont taste exactly like carbonated beer, but you can definatly taste any off flavours in there, and over time you will be able to tell how the finished beer will taste.


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## Hangover68 (16/1/21)

So are you brewing a pale ale or a lager ?


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## Jords84 (16/1/21)

Hangover68 said:


> So are you brewing a pale ale or a lager ?


I’m brewing a pale ale mix. But following recipe I got to make as close as to tooheys new. Any thoughts?


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## Jords84 (16/1/21)

CaptainMachSnot said:


> Hey mate, just taste what you pull out to do your hydrometer readings. It wont taste exactly like carbonated beer, but you can definatly taste any off flavours in there, and over time you will be able to tell how the finished beer will taste.


Thanks. I’ll have a taste this arvo when I take the sg reading. Fingers crossed it’s alright.


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## Hangover68 (16/1/21)

Jords84 said:


> I’m brewing a pale ale mix. But following recipe I got to make as close as to tooheys new. Any thoughts?



You lost me at Tooheys.


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## Jords84 (16/1/21)

Hangover68 said:


> You lost me at Tooheys.


Rightio. Not you beer of choice? Or just not not going to work? I just don’t want to mess it up.


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## Sidney Harbour-Bridge (16/1/21)

Jords84 said:


> I’m brewing a pale ale mix. But following recipe I got to make as close as to tooheys new. Any thoughts?


Oh there are so many things you could do to make it more like Tooheys, have you considered adding chilled horse urine to reduce the temperature


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## Jords84 (16/1/21)

Sidney Harbour-Bridge said:


> Oh there are so many things you could do to make it more like Tooheys, have you considered adding chilled horse urine to reduce the temperature





Sidney Harbour-Bridge said:


> Oh there are so many things you could do to make it more like Tooheys, have you considered adding chilled horse urine to reduce the temperature


  fair call. Each to their own. I was considering adding some of your sense of humour to make it a bit more dry though. Also some of your attitude to make it tasteless.


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## djebel (16/1/21)

Jords84 said:


> fair call. Each to their own. I was considering adding some of your sense of humour to make it a bit more dry though. Also some of your attitude to make it tasteless.


Tasteless would be an improvement on Tooheys New.


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## kadmium (17/1/21)

Hahah. Don't let the detractors put you off! Yeah tasting the hydrometer sample is the way to go. If it's terrible, then report back with what it tastes like and we can try work out if it will be ok!


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## Barry (17/1/21)

For future beers I have found that for most standard ales/ale yeasts 18oC for the first few days and when fermentation slows move to 20oC and maybe 220C for the last few days before cooling/packaging. The lower temp at the beginning reduces esters/fusels production and rising temp helps keep fermentation going and gives the yeast the energy to clean up the beer at the end.


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## Jords84 (17/1/21)

kadmium said:


> Hahah. Don't let the detractors put you off! Yeah tasting the hydrometer sample is the way to go. If it's terrible, then report back with what it tastes like and we can try work out if it will be ok!


It’s all good. We all know the old saying about opinions and a##holes. Everyone is entitled to one. It actually tastes alright and the sg has dropped to 1015. So I might bottle it tomorrow arvo.


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## Jords84 (17/1/21)

Barry said:


> For future beers I have found that for most standard ales/ale yeasts 18oC for the first few days and when fermentation slows move to 20oC and maybe 220C for the last few days before cooling/packaging. The lower temp at the beginning reduces esters/fusels production and rising temp helps keep fermentation going and gives the yeast the energy to clean up the beer at the end.


Thanks very much for the advice. I think is what I’ve managed to do so I reckon it’ll be ready to bottle tomorrow.


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## Jords84 (17/1/21)

Is there any specific/recommended temp for secondary fermentation?


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## Jords84 (17/1/21)

Is there a recommended temperature for storing beer after bottling?


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## CaptainMachSnot (17/1/21)

1.015, could still go lower, mine usually finish in the range of 1.012 to 1.009. Make sure your sg is the exact same tomorrow, else its not done. For the next couple of weeks, keep it at fermenting temps (18 to 20, maybe even as high as 22) till it's carbed.


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## Jords84 (21/1/21)

CaptainMachSnot said:


> 1.015, could still go lower, mine usually finish in the range of 1.012 to 1.009. Make sure your sg is the exact same tomorrow, else its not done. For the next couple of weeks, keep it at fermenting temps (18 to 20, maybe even as high as 22) till it's carbed.


No worries. Thanks again. It’s been at 1012 for the last couple of days so I’m going to bottle it. It’s going to be pretty hot here over the next few days and weeks. Any homemade way suggestions on how I can keep it between 18-22?


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## CaptainMachSnot (21/1/21)

Apart from keeping it in the middle of the house, not really. I was having trouble regulating my temps, so set up a freezer with controller, never have to worry about it now, and made a big difference to the quality of my beer. Used to not be able to brew in the middle of summer. Could try some kveik yeast next time, can use that at higher temps.


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## CaptainMachSnot (21/1/21)

Reading back through your posts, i thought you were using a fermentation chamber. If you are, just wack the bottles back in and jam the probe somewhere in the middle of all the bottles. Or start a new batch and wedge the bottles around the fermenter. Both should be around the same temp, unless you decide to do a lager


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## Jords84 (21/1/21)

I’m just using a pale fermenter. Do you reckon putting a bit of water in an esky and putting them in there would work?


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## CaptainMachSnot (21/1/21)

Prob wrap a towel around them, reaching the water so the evaporation cools them. Cant see why it wouldn't, thats how people keep their fermenters cool. If you neet to cool them even more, point a pedestal fan at them as well


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## Jimmymac (21/1/21)

Jords84 said:


> It’s all good. We all know the old saying about opinions and a##holes. Everyone is entitled to one. It actually tastes alright and the sg has dropped to 1015. So I might bottle it tomorrow arvo.


1015 sounds like a high Final Gravity for a "new" style beer. Probably best to hold off another couple of days to see if hydrometer readings are steady. Lack of airlock activity may indicate a poor seal somewhere. No need to rush finish.


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## kadmium (22/1/21)

Jimmymac said:


> 1015 sounds like a high Final Gravity for a "new" style beer. Probably best to hold off another couple of days to see if hydrometer readings are steady. Lack of airlock activity may indicate a poor seal somewhere. No need to rush finish.


1.070 to 1.015 is 78% attenuation, and I know with a lot of "new" style IPA the FG can be around 1.020. 

Even a true, dry clean crisp boho pils should be 1.013


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## Jords84 (22/1/21)

kadmium said:


> 1.070 to 1.015 is 78% attenuation, and I know with a lot of "new" style IPA the FG can be around 1.020.
> 
> Even a true, dry clean crisp boho pils should be 1.013


I bottled last night as it’d been that sg for days. Do you reckon they’ll explode?


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## philrob (22/1/21)

78% apparent attenuation is pretty good. I don't think you'll have any problems if your reading has been the same for days.


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## CaptainMachSnot (22/1/21)

So quick question, if im going down to 1.012 to 1.009, is something not quite right? Tested my hydrometer in 20⁰C tap water, and was 1.000


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## carrobrew (22/1/21)

CaptainMachSnot said:


> So quick question, if im going down to 1.012 to 1.009, is something not quite right? Tested my hydrometer in 20⁰C tap water, and was 1.000


It'll be different depending on what recipe/style you are brewing. A dryer thinner body beer will finish with a lot lower FG than a more full bodied beer.

Think of the difference between a Dry Pilsner or Brut IPA vs an Oatmeal stout or Oatcream IPA. The unfermentable sugars and adjuncts in an oatmeal stout or Oatcream will mean a much higher FG than a drier beer which has has most of the sugars turned into alcohol.

That's just the tip of the iceberg as well, things like Mash temp, yeast used, fermentation schedule will all affect the final FG.


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## carrobrew (22/1/21)

I found this after a quick look.









Beer Styles Study Guide


CraftBeer.com Beer Styles Study Guide gives beer lovers a methodology to describe, compare and contrast beer produced by small and independent U.S. brewers.




www.craftbeer.com





After the stuff the start of the article it has a bunch of style guidelines expected FGs when brewing to style. Of course as homebrewers and even commercial brewers are not always brewing to style but thought it was interesting to show the differences.


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## CaptainMachSnot (22/1/21)

Just wondering, cause my brews always end up with a lower sg than expected. I have been running mainly k&k (extra stuff added by me), or liquid malts and bittering/hopping myself. The one biab i have done (19l bigw pot) ended up exactly where expected. Just wanted to know as im eyeing off a guten/brewzilla, and can always use a bit of advice


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