# Yeast



## athomas550 (2/6/11)

I went to the local brewing supply shop, and the man asked me what brewing I was into. Explained that I had tried making my first mead, which he seemed to know all about. As a matter of interest I asked what yeast he used, that set him off. To cut a long story short he came out with a champagne yeast - (written on the outside of the plastic packet). 

My first question to him after his sermon on mead was, 'To make use of this yeast, do you heat or boil the must prior to adding the yeast? To my surprise there was a deafening silence!

Please guys, as a matter of interest, do you have a recipe for the use of champagne yeast, I have found a few on the net but have not found one here on the forum as yet, purely a matter of interest as I have seen it mentioned here a few times.

Thanks again,

athomas550


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## KudaPucat (2/6/11)

athomas550 said:


> I went to the local brewing supply shop, and the man asked me what brewing I was into. Explained that I had tried making my first mead, which he seemed to know all about. As a matter of interest I asked what yeast he used, that set him off. To cut a long story short he came out with a champagne yeast - (written on the outside of the plastic packet).
> 
> My first question to him after his sermon on mead was, 'To make use of this yeast, do you heat or boil the must prior to adding the yeast? To my surprise there was a deafening silence!
> 
> ...



Chanpagne has a very high alcohol tolerance, so you'll either get a dry mead, a high alcohol dry mead or a very high alcohol mead with residual sugar.
You can make a good traditional with it, but most ppl prefer lower ABV yeasts.
Do you like dry alcohols?
I've got a strawberry mel on at the moment using K1V-1116.

I'm assuming that you were sold a packet of EC-1118 or SN9 (SN9 is a guess but it's something like that)
Could you let us know what the exact strain is?
All homebrew guys attest to knowing about mead, until you show you know something. I'm yet to find a counter clerk who knows anything about mead, and I've only found 2 who'll admit to knowing nothing.


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## Wolfy (2/6/11)

Some people like to boil or at least pasturize their honey before use, since it should help reduce or eliminate any infections.
However, if you listen to the TBN podcast (search their archives) featuring Ken Schramm (author of The Complete Meadmaker) you'll find that he does not heat his honey at all, just throws it in the fermentor and then beats it with electric-beaters.

As for the champagne yeast it is popular (like KudaPucat said) for making dry meads, so if that is what you are looking for, go for it. 
A very simple recipe (from the above mentioned book) for a 'Dry Show Mead' is as follows:

2.27kg honey
Enough water to make 19L
2tsp yeast energizer
2tsp yeast nutrient

(both the last two ingredients are optional but tend to help the mead ferment quicker and easier)


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## KudaPucat (3/6/11)

Wolfy said:


> Some people like to boil or at least pasturize their honey before use, since it should help reduce or eliminate any infections.
> However, if you listen to the TBN podcast (search their archives) featuring Ken Schramm (author of The Complete Meadmaker) you'll find that he does not heat his honey at all, just throws it in the fermentor and then beats it with electric-beaters.
> 
> As for the champagne yeast it is popular (like KudaPucat said) for making dry meads, so if that is what you are looking for, go for it.
> ...



The last two can be important with champagne yeast, as it's very quick, and very agressive. If it goes hungry it can be a pain.
It also produces a fair bit of heat because of its agressiveness, so keep it cool unless you like sulphur.
Best time to brew this stuff is winter, so get a move on! ;-)


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## athomas550 (5/6/11)

KudaPucat said:


> The last two can be important with champagne yeast, as it's very quick, and very agressive. If it goes hungry it can be a pain.
> It also produces a fair bit of heat because of its agressiveness, so keep it cool unless you like sulphur.
> Best time to brew this stuff is winter, so get a move on! ;-)




I went back to the shop and bought a small packet of the champagne yeast, to give it a whirl!

Wolfy, I am new to brewing so do not have the goods to make a large batch of anything. 
The recipe you gave can it be scaled down to suit a five liter demi-john?
Is that the complete recipe?

Hope to hear from you guys soon.
Thanks


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## KudaPucat (5/6/11)

athomas550 said:


> I went back to the shop and bought a small packet of the champagne yeast, to give it a whirl!
> 
> Wolfy, I am new to brewing so do not have the goods to make a large batch of anything.
> The recipe you gave can it be scaled down to suit a five liter demi-john?
> ...


Yes it will scale. 
Ok here's the basic guide to mead. Sorry - it may sound patronising. 
Do you have a hydrometer? If not. Buy one. Get one that measures specific gravity. (hint: the values will go from about 0.990 at the top to about 1.2 at the bottom)

Step 1 warm 2 litres of water to no more than 50C
Step 2 dissolve your honey into the water (1kg should do)
Step 3 measure the specific gravity. It should be around 1.130 if you have good honey. 
Step 4 put it in the 5 litre Demi. 
Step 5 let it cool
Step 6 rehydrate and add the yeast and nutrients (DAP and boiled yeast work well. 1 tsp of each)
Step 7 bug and airlock. Now wait. 

This will make 3 litres. 
You can add cold water to cool the must. Be aware that you want only 4 litres max so it has room to foam. 
If adding another litre of water, make sure you add more honey to the now 3 litres on the stove. 

Most champagne yeast I'd tolerant to 18% ie this is the maximum alcohol you can get. 
It also means that it has the potential ability to drop the sg by 135 points. 
So your 1.130 must will probably ferment dry. Giving an alcohol content of 17% or so. 
If you want lower, add less honey. If you want a mead with residual sweetness: use a different yeast, I would not go too heavy with champagne yeast. It can get upset and start farting rotten eggs. 

Whatever you do: record your OG (original gravity) so we can have the info needed to assist you if you have problems. 

This mead you're making will require 18 months of ageing. 
If this alarms you: make a batch of JAO first (the recipe is on here somewhere)
Then make the batch above...


Measure the sg prior to pitching the yeast. 
Record your OG.


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## JulieRush (5/6/11)

did similar myself at the weekend, although specifically went in for a mead yeast of some description. SN9 was what was recommended so its what I got.

Did note that the manufacturers suggest it is good in terms of flocculating and dropping, and also ferments quick, and is happy down to around 10 degrees.

Pitched some with some nutrient in a 3.4 litre batch of spiced mead after jiggling about with the numbers to give me what should be around 18% abv and an FG or something around 1020. At least, that's the plan.

only problem is it'll be a good few months before I know if I've mate Teh Awesumz or if I've ruined 1.7kg of honey 

I guess that's the fun of brewing


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## HoppingMad (6/6/11)

Champagne yeasts can come up quite dry as mentioned.

Also consider giving these a whirl on a future batch:
Wyeast Liquid Mead Yeasts

Hopper.


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## athomas550 (15/6/11)

KudaPucat said:


> Yes it will scale.
> Ok here's the basic guide to mead. Sorry - it may sound patronising.
> Do you have a hydrometer? If not. Buy one. Get one that measures specific gravity. (hint: the values will go from about 0.990 at the top to about 1.2 at the bottom)
> 
> ...





Thanks for your time, appreciate it.
I am new to this gig as I mentioned, so all help, questions answered are relevant to improving the breed!
I got a beer hydrometer a while back, it has markings from 1.000 at the top end to 1.040 at the other. I have noticed that some of the readings the guys give on this forum go beyond what is on this one would it be better value to obtain a better version, actually I think I will.

Could you explain some of the terms you used above please - 
1) rehydrate and add the yeast and nutrients - do you mean to put it in some warm water or must mixture to reconstitute
2) (DAP and boiled yeast work well) - what is DAP?
3) where does energiser fit into the scheme of things, I understand the need for nutrients (there is no or not sufficient nutrients for the yeast to multiply and grow in the must alone, so you need to give it a hand).

I encountered a 'closet' mead maker (didn't know he dabbled), he gave me some D47 yeast " try this, its a corker', please give me the good oil on this yeast, would you use it or the champagne yeast mentioned above.

Just about ready to do it.

Thanks again,
athomas550


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## Wolfy (15/6/11)

athomas550 said:


> Could you explain some of the terms you used above please -
> 1) rehydrate and add the yeast and nutrients - do you mean to put it in some warm water or must mixture to reconstitute
> 2) (DAP and boiled yeast work well) - what is DAP?
> 3) where does energiser fit into the scheme of things, I understand the need for nutrients (there is no or not sufficient nutrients for the yeast to multiply and grow in the must alone, so you need to give it a hand).
> ...


1) Yes, the exact temp of the 'warm' water depends on your yeast but if it is about 27-30degC you should be good.
2) DAP is Diammonium phosphate, it provides FAN (Free Amino Nitrogen) which is essential for robust fermentation but which honey lacks, you should be able to buy it at most (decent) HBS.
3) Yeast energizer or yeast nutrient is are often interchangeable names given to mixtures of DAP and the other nutrients that yeast need. Often 'yeast nutrients' also contain DAP, it just depends on where and how it was made and the exact name of the products depends on who made it and who you are talking to.

D47 is Lalvin's Coates du Rhone yeast, with an alcohol tolerance between 12-14% and this is what Ken Schramm has to say about it:


> Used for meads with success, it takes longer to age than 71B and is a better choice for medium to dry meads. It makes a good traditional mead but is not tolerant of low nutrient levels and should be given appropriate nitrogen.


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## bignath (15/6/11)

athomas550 said:


> I got a beer hydrometer a while back, it has markings from 1.000 at the top end to 1.040 at the other. I have noticed that some of the readings the guys give on this forum go beyond what is on this one would it be better value to obtain a better version, actually I think I will.




Yep definitely get one with a bigger range than that.

With that hydrometer, you'd be limited to brewing beers that maxed out at around 4% ABV. I don't know how big a range mine has got but i know i've done lots of beers over the years that have been 6% and higher.
Actually i use a refractometer (i gave my hydrometer to a friend who has just started brewing) but that's a whole different arguement right there.


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## athomas550 (25/7/11)

Wolfy said:


> 1) Yes, the exact temp of the 'warm' water depends on your yeast but if it is about 27-30degC you should be good.
> 2) DAP is Diammonium phosphate, it provides FAN (Free Amino Nitrogen) which is essential for robust fermentation but which honey lacks, you should be able to buy it at most (decent) HBS.
> 3) Yeast energizer or yeast nutrient is are often interchangeable names given to mixtures of DAP and the other nutrients that yeast need. Often 'yeast nutrients' also contain DAP, it just depends on where and how it was made and the exact name of the products depends on who made it and who you are talking to.
> 
> D47 is Lalvin's Coates du Rhone yeast, with an alcohol tolerance between 12-14% and this is what Ken Schramm has to say about it:




Finally able to do it!

1kg 'Brush Box' honey (from the honey wholesaler down the road).
Cleaned the gear needed in sanitiser for the gig.
Warmed the honey in the sink with warm water - easier to pour.
Mixed it in two parts with 500ml. of spring water in measuring jug, into demi-john.
Rinsed the container with tepid water, added to demi.
Added stopper to demi and shook the whatsis out of it to mix and oxygenate.
All in all used 1.6 litre spring water in the above mixes, added the extra spring water to 3.4litres.
Took Sg. reading - 1.180
Warmed water and added a teaspoon of D47 yeast and a teaspoon of yeast nutrient to a jug, mixed and waited for foaming reaction.
Added this mix to demi-john, inserted airlock to demi.
The foaming has not started in the demi - just waiting.......

If you guys can have look see that this is OK.
Thanks.
athomas550


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