# Yet Another Brew Stand Design Thread



## mobrien (3/1/06)

I know, I know - we have seen quite a few of these threads, and yes I used the search function and I've read them all!

Now to my burning question - I've just built my shed, so now I have space for my AG setup. I'm going to do a three tier setup - I know hot water at head height isn't the best thing in some peoples minds, but I think I have the safety covered. My plan is as follows:

Boiler mounted off the ground on the left side of the stand by the distance of a fermenter. Burner underneath (either 4 ring or nasa - to be purchased sometime soon in Brissy). Gas bottle to the right underneath the mash tun, which is mounted with its valve 100mm or so above the top of the boiler. Back to the left, the HLT mounted above the boiler, with the valve 100mm or so above the top of the mash tun.

As far as safety goes, I'll have the whole thing bolted to one of the metal C section support columns of my shed. This baby won't be moving! I will also have a metal mesh (100mm squares) 3/4 gate in front of the HLT, mash tun and boiler - none will be able to move!

I'll also try and build in storage for the fermenters when not in use.

As far as specifics go, hopefully I'll make it out of 50mm square steel tubing, all welded and/or bolted together. Metal plates for each shelf. 6 uprights - two on each side, and two in the middle. Horizontals below each shelf, and bracing as it seems to need it.

The HLT is 60L (electric), and will shortly be thermostat controlled. The Mash tun will be either 27L or 50L (I have two ) and the boiler is 60L.

I'm also thinking about mounting plates for stirring motors above the HLT and mash tuns - not for now but for future upgrades.

I plan to mock it all up with wood to begin with, and check the system works, before building the metal job. Just brew 20L batches in this testing phase, so load isn't an issue with the temporary stand. I have timber lying around, so it costs nothing for now.

So - to the question - have I missed anything?! What should I be adding in the design phase? 

Matt


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## mobrien (3/1/06)

And of course I have to show off the shed  A half built photo to show off the space, and an almost finished photo to show how dead sexy it is 

M


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## Screwtop (3/1/06)

mobrien said:


> And of course I have to show off the shed  A half built photo to show off the space, and an almost finished photo to show how dead sexy it is
> 
> M
> [post="100616"][/post]​




Love the shed, want a bigger one. Have a mate working on a design for me at present using aluminium square HS, not sure of the size about 16mm I think and using pressure moulded plastic joiners, the only part requiring welding is the burner deck, will be supa-cheap (no affilliation)  and easy construct. MK III is basically 3 towers of differing heights each 400mm square. Let me know if you want a copy of the rough drawing.


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## tangent (3/1/06)

seen a few setups,
don't forget, that main gas valve is pretty handy away from ignition and easily accessable at all times. Don't hide your main gas valve/bottle under a bench.


nice shed B)


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## Rex (3/1/06)

That's a kick arse shed... Perfect for building a cool room in for fermentation 

Wish I had a big backyard to fit such a beast in!

Anyway I've previously been using a very dodgey temporary 3 tier setup, but am now going to the other end of the scale building a proper single tier. 

You really should consider getting a pump and going to a 2 tier version. It will save a lot of climbing and mucking around and will allow you to keep an eye on everything better.


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## sintax69 (4/1/06)

ok so how much is a shed like that worth with the slab and all ??
did you build it if so how hard is it ??


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## stl (4/1/06)

mobrien said:


> And of course I have to show off the shed  A half built photo to show off the space, and an almost finished photo to show how dead sexy it is
> [post="100616"][/post]​



Nice shed, I hope nobody will complain when it's full of beer and the "necessary" equipment  

I've been getting jealous reading about all these various AG brewing setups, keen to get started on something myself. I've been offered a couple pumps ex medical equipment and am hoping to be able to come up with something more or less automated. Ah, much research to do and fun to be had!

Noticed you're in Ipswich too -- know many other brewers around here?

Steven


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## Rex (4/1/06)

stl said:


> I've been getting jealous reading about all these various AG brewing setups, keen to get started on something myself.
> [post="100642"][/post]​



Don't stress... I'd done extract for years on and off... 

One day I just decided to have a crack at AG and did lotsa reading on the net and cobbled together some plastic buckets and a pot. Bought an electric element for the bucket and a basic temperature controller to use for a HLT. Bought a burner and 10M of copper for a wort chiller. Stacked it all up on some kegs and a table in the garage. 

I stuffed up a couple of minor things on my first batch, was worried I'd ruied it, but in the end I reckon it tasted better than any extract brew I'd ever done!!! 

Anyway, the point I'm making is don't worry about getting the equipment perfect, just get the main bits and have a go now!

Cheers


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## AndrewQLD (4/1/06)

Single tier and one pump ROCKS :beerbang: here's some pics of my setup
Bundy Brewery
I like the single tier setups mainly because there neat, all at one height, and I think easier to use if you have a pump.

An I wish I had a shed like yours, it's a beauty  

Cheers
Andrew


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## Justin (4/1/06)

Mobrien, wicked shed mate. That is going to be a pearler and a great place to brew. Congratulations, I can't wait until I can get a space like that.

The only thing I can think of for your design is if your going to go the three tier and you have the room (seems like you do) consider making an access platform so you have a nice area to stand on to access your mash tun. I've said this before, but the worst part about a three tier (at least one that the boil kettle can drain into the fermenter) is the height of the mash tun. Standing on ladders is not a real ergonomic thing to dough in and stir on, plus think of the possibility of consuming a few beers during the brewing session.

If you are going a three tier system I would really consider making a platform to stand on that gives you easy access. It's only you mash tun you need to get to easily, the HLT is fine and so is the kettle. Your platform doesn't have to be permanently set up and stick out into the centre of the shed, it could pack away up against the side of the shed for compactness but I'd really consider making one of these instead of using a ladder. It will make the brew day much more enjoyable in my opinion.

I'm like Andrew, I made a one tier system and it is just so nice to dough in, stir the mash, watch the levels etc on. The favourite part of my brewery set up is the position of the mash tun. I had a three tier and it worked great and there is nothing wrong with them, but I needed to climb on something to reach the mash tun (only really a foot or two but is was enough). I ended up doughing in on the ground and lifting the tun onto the stand. Just worth considering anyway.

Cheers, Justin


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## Justin (4/1/06)

Ah, also, I don't really know what you mean by building gates for the vessels but if your doing what I think your doing I probably wouldn't worry about it. Those vessels wont move, trust me. I reckon it would just cause a bit of inconvenience but it's up to you, you know what you want.

Cheers mate.


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## Ross (4/1/06)

Great looking shed mobrien  - how much of it are you going to be able to use for brewing? Are you looking to put a bar in there or just the brewery?

cheers Ross


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## mobrien (4/1/06)

Thanks for all the feedback guys - a lot to think about there!

It seems a lot of advice tends towards getting a pump - from another perspective this could be a good thing, as it would easily make it so I could have the brewery in a "cupboard" that could be sealed from the rest of the shed which will be used for woodwork and metalwork. The problem at the moment is the move to a new house, the building of the shed etc etc has drained the money - and most of it wasn't our money but the banks funnily enough! 

So what is a pump worth? I've got $350 or so in my head....

Rex: long term I plan to have a cold room there was a neat one on ebay recently, but it ended up going for a lot too much but well see 

Sintax The shed kit was around $8k, the slab $2k (thats just concrete and rio I did it myself) and excavation depends on your site mine was more than normal because of the slope and we needed fill.

Building the shed was easy for me, although it would have been a lot better if I had a helper doing it solo was crazy at some points as I dealt with huge lengths of steel beams and sheeting. I managed though, and I really enjoyed it. You need decent tools screw gun, impact drill, cordless drill, circular saw with metal cutting disc, decent socket, snips set etc etc, but if you are planning on building anything you need that kind of gear anyway. All up I guess it was about 2 weeks equivalent full time work but thats because of doing it 100% by myself if I had a helper, I think it would be more like 2 days or so.

I have to add that my Dad owns his own building company, and I grew up working on construction sites so what I see as easy may not be easy for average joe if you have some building skills and common sense, and a mate to give you a hand, I cant see it being a problem.

Steve (stl): Ag is easy just doo eet! I put a thread together of my first AG here: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=6361

As far as Ipswich brewing goes I have no idea! I only just moved here, and since we moved I have just been doing the shed/driveway/yard/retaining walls/fences/garden etc! I havent even done a brew!

That said, once Im up and running again you are more than welcome to come and see it in action.

Justin: Thanks for the feedback an access platform would be a must but now Im leaning towards a pump. Hmmm damn all this good advice 

Ross: The only constraint I have from SWMBO is the car and gardening stuff must fit into the shed other than that it is mine! Its going to be a serious workshop setup for woodworking and metalwork. Benches all around one end, permanently set up power tools etc etc. There will also be a dedicated electrical station on one side, which can be sealed when not in use. The brewery will be set up permanently on one wall, and I hope to be able to make that sealed when not in use also.

Because we have an old Queenslander, there is a heap of space under the house and its nice and cool down there. My timber slabs will be stacked around the edges to dry, and the bar will be set up in the middle of these my idea of a nice environment. Also easy access from the house and not sitting amongst the tools. Eventually we want a cold room under the house also, for brewing and kegs, but most importantly actually for storing produce we want to up our growing output and need to be able to store it.

But thats long term plans. Short term I just need to get brewing again!

Matt


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## Darren (4/1/06)

mobrien said:


> Thanks for all the feedback guys - a lot to think about there!
> 
> So what is a pump worth? I've got $350 or so in my head....
> 
> ...




Great looking shed matt.

Pump is less than $200 delivered. Try a search for process pumps on this site


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## Jazman (4/1/06)

what size shed is that Matt, as mine is in councli at the moment and waiting for specs min going to be a bout 8mtres by 6 metres with an open side attached to me carport under the main roof and i am geting this cheap


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## mobrien (4/1/06)

Darren,

Yeah - found teh thread - looks good - $200 or so delivered.... might have to save some money and go that route!

Jazman - the shed is 7.5 x 9 x 3.6m. I went all the options - two extra height roller doors, two windows, PA door, remote door opener on one roller door, two wirly bird heat extractors on top, all colourbond. Ended up a good deal for me.

Council had a few requirements for me - I had to have special drainage as per their requirements (which is a really crappy system using a drainage pit), 1.5m clearance from all boundries, 1.5m clearance from all sewage lines etc, and also had to be above the q100 (1 in 100 year) floodline - an issue here! All in all, a few hassels, but found a nice guy in the planning department and we worked through and resolved all issues.

M

M


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## Jazman (4/1/06)

ok i bigger than mine as i have no pa doors i make latter on,no windows i will make vents latter plus i putting ventalting ridge on the top so my shed will have good air flow but then i willget mine from work but a great size shed you have matt


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## tangent (4/1/06)

best addition i've seen in a new shed is a small bathroom/toilet
pull a bike to bits or come home from work grubby, take a dip in the shower before you even go inside and really handy for visitors


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## Prof. Pils (6/1/06)

mobrien said:


> I know, I know - we have seen quite a few of these threads, and yes I used the search function and I've read them all!
> 
> Now to my burning question - I've just built my shed, so now I have space for my AG setup. I'm going to do a three tier setup - I know hot water at head height isn't the best thing in some peoples minds, but I think I have the safety covered. My plan is as follows:
> 
> ...


What about something like this, Matt.You need to think long and hard B4 U purchase your A/G setup. It should last a long time.


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## barneyhanway (6/1/06)

prof pils,
thats the most beautiful thing I have EVER seen.


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## Prof. Pils (6/1/06)

Thanks barneyhanway. It's still not finished yet. It's been a big project.


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## mobrien (6/1/06)

Now that is fine looking! I gather you have a tap above your HLT - great idea!

M


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## redbeard (6/1/06)

2 march pumps !! ? 

will they be permanently plumbed prof ?


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## stl (6/1/06)

Prof. Pils said:


> What about something like this, Matt.You need to think long and hard B4 U purchase your A/G setup. It should last a long time.
> [post="101165"][/post]​



Oh, you guys and all your planning and forethought!

It may prove to be stupid of me, but I'm just whacking together whatever I can as I get ahold of the bits. Will see how an electric-powered HLT (go the Belle kettle!) performs as a heat exchanger. Being given two pumps (a March 240VAC 1/25HP 3000RPM and some other smaller, geared 24VDC one) makes it all possible  

The bigger pump should handle the mash recirculation and the little one will recirculate the HLT water (good way to stir huh) while it's not being pumped into the mash tun. May as well use the HX as a chiller too. That's the plan anyway!

Looks like the copper pipe (for HX and manifolds) will be far and away the most expensive outlay, judging by Bunnings' prices. Anyone got any tips there?

Steve


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## Prof. Pils (6/1/06)

redbeard said:


> 2 march pumps !! ?
> 
> will they be permanently plumbed prof ?
> [post="101254"][/post]​


Silicon Hoses


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## Prof. Pils (6/1/06)

stl said:


> Prof. Pils said:
> 
> 
> > What about something like this, Matt.You need to think long and hard B4 U purchase your A/G setup. It should last a long time.
> ...


Steve, I tried to get all the stuff for free from mates and constant searching at the tip but unfortunately no matter how hard I tried I couldn't find all the bits I needed to construct my dream machine.


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## sosman (6/1/06)

AndrewQLD said:


> Single tier and one pump ROCKS :beerbang: here's some pics of my setup
> Bundy Brewery
> I like the single tier setups mainly because there neat, all at one height, and I think easier to use if you have a pump.
> [post="100659"][/post]​


And I didn't even know photoshop came with an angle grinder tool.


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## sosman (6/1/06)

Here's my brewstand:


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## wessmith (6/1/06)

Here are some shots of the new brewery taken about 2 weeks back. Still some paving and landscaping to go yet!

Wes


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## homebrewworld.com (6/1/06)

Wes,
I love your stuff......
May i ask what batch size you do ?.

Cheers
HBW


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## wessmith (6/1/06)

Gidday HBW, the normal batch size is 60ltrs but the mash tun will handle around 15kg of grist. The kettle is approx. 120ltrs and believe me you need that extra head space for some of the wheat beers!. There are 2 fermenters of 80 ltrs capacity and ATM all beers are kegged - I hate bottling......

Wes


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## homebrewworld.com (6/1/06)

OH, here is my set-up gravity & pump rims.

Cheers


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## homebrewworld.com (6/1/06)

May the beer gods bless ya Wes ....  

I Love it.

:beerbang:


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## wessmith (6/1/06)

Your setup aint too shabby either HBW! 

Wes


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## Linz (6/1/06)

Dang Wes,

Im gunna have to get some bigger extinguishers for ya warehouse!!!

The pics of the HERMS are coming folks....


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## Prof. Pils (6/1/06)

wessmith said:


> Here are some shots of the new brewery taken about 2 weeks back. Still some paving and landscaping to go yet!
> 
> Wes
> View attachment 5412
> ...


Wow. Thats amazing. Love the motorised mash tun.Big batches are the way to go.


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## Vlad the Pale Aler (6/1/06)

Jeez I would'nt have the balls to post my own set up here after seeing this lot.

More power to your collective elbows!

:super:


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## Guest Lurker (7/1/06)

Well, dont worry Vlad, I have the balls to post pics of your setup and I am bringing my camera to your brewday.


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## hops&heads (7/1/06)

Prof. Pils said:


> mobrien said:
> 
> 
> > I know, I know - we have seen quite a few of these threads, and yes I used the search function and I've read them all!
> ...


That looks amazing any more pics Prof?


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## Prof. Pils (7/1/06)

hops&heads said:


> That looks amazing any more pics Prof?
> [post="101409"][/post]​


Sure hops&heads, I spent all day yesterday scrubbing and polishing so took some more pics. It's still not finished, still haven't received my false bottoms and sight gauge from 3B and I have to get the pots drilled. This is my system from the taps back.


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## Prof. Pils (7/1/06)

Am I doing this right. It only takes one photo at a time?


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## stl (7/1/06)

Prof. Pils said:


> Steve, I tried to get all the stuff for free from mates and constant searching at the tip but unfortunately no matter how hard I tried I couldn't find all the bits I needed to construct my dream machine.
> [post="101296"][/post]​



Well you've got a pretty awesome setup to show for it! Very tidy.

Mine will be a mess and probably electrocute me or my dog. Pics of my tightarse setup will follow when I've got it brewing something.

Next thing on my agenda: my old man suggested a transmission cooler or similar (would have to be new obviously ) for use in the heat exchanger. Could be a lot cheaper than making copper coils.

Steven


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## Ross (7/1/06)

Prof.pils,

please take a minute to learn how to post....

Use the big "add reply" button at the bottom - this will give you a new box without all the previuos stuff.
You can use the edit button on your old posts to go back into them & delete the non-relevant content.
You can post upto 1 meg of pics in each post - if your pics are too big, simply resize them, so you can post multiple pics...

++++

Absolutely awesome set-up - looking forward to perusing it further, once things are tidied up a bit...  

Cheers Ross


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## jgriffin (7/1/06)

I've deleted most of your posts Prof Phil, and put all the pics in 2 posts. Please learn to post without all the repl stuff.

Also, would be good if you could resize your pictures down a bit - unfortunately i'm not on my own PC atm, so i can't do it.


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## Prof. Pils (7/1/06)

Ross said:


> Prof.pils,
> 
> please take a minute to learn how to post....
> 
> ...


Sorry Ross, I'm still on L plates with the computer.I'm sure I'll improve.
Cheers Glenn


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## Prof. Pils (7/1/06)

jgriffin said:


> I've deleted most of your posts Prof Phil, and put all the pics in 2 posts. Please learn to post without all the repl stuff.
> 
> Also, would be good if you could resize your pictures down a bit - unfortunately i'm not on my own PC atm, so i can't do it.
> [post="101438"][/post]​


Thanks jgriffin, thats much better. I wish I was more IT literate.I still have to learn Promash yet. Thanks again. Glenn


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## jgriffin (7/1/06)

Hey what's the deal with the funny looking 3gal keg in the freezer?


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## Prof. Pils (7/1/06)

jgriffin said:


> Hey what's the deal with the funny looking 3gal keg in the freezer?
> [post="101446"][/post]​


It's my barbie keg. 5 lt sprayer that I still have to find some adapters to suit corny fittings. No luck at 3 plumbing shops so far.I think I need an engineering shop.
If I can, I plan on buying another cos I've found an esky on wheels that fits 2 perfectly. I got the idea on this forum , Thanks to Craigarino.No more bottling ever again!
Cheers Glenn.


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## Bigfella (8/1/06)

I have been trying to work out a basic design for a single tier setup with one march pump. Can any of you guys that have already made a setup tell me the best tap setup for the pump. Because I already have taps on the Tun,HLT, and boiler, I'm not sure if I need to double up with more taps I hope you know what I mean. Thanks in advance.


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## Prof. Pils (8/1/06)

Bigfella, it depends on your outlet fittings on your taps and pump.These are all standard 1/2" .Hope this helps.
Cheers Glenn.


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## Bigfella (8/1/06)

Sorry I didn't really ask my question properly. I was meaning how many taps and where about in the system.


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## Prof. Pils (8/1/06)

I suppose it depends on whether UR using a false bottom or slotted manifold in your mash tun. What sort of vessel RU using? As long as your outlet is below your F/B your mash tun will be ok. As for your kettle, if UR using an immersion cliller I would maybe put your outlet a bit higher to allow you to get rid of some cold break. If using C/F chiller I would go as low as.
Cheers Glenn


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## tangent (8/1/06)

Prof, that setup is awesome! Right down to the Simpsons on flatscreen  Niiiiice.
I've rolled my swag up and will move in asap.

Regarding your extra tap length on the left, is that a screw on restrictor/screen for a NO2 mix? Details?

What's the tube along the ceiling?


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## Linz (8/1/06)

BF,
Just finished plumbing mine and Ive used a minimum of 5 (inc boiler) ball valves. Could possibly use another 3, but I reckon thats bordering on overkill...
I'll try and get some pics later..


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## Prof. Pils (8/1/06)

tangent said:


> Prof, that setup is awesome! Right down to the Simpsons on flatscreen  Niiiiice.
> I've rolled my swag up and will move in asap.
> 
> Regarding your extra tap length on the left, is that a screw on restrictor/screen for a NO2 mix? Details?
> ...


Thanks Tangent, I dont think there's room for both of us, I almost live down there now, just ask my wife, the project started about 18 mth ago like this.

The hot wort is pumped through the chiller, then inline oxy then up the wall and over to the top fermenter, pitch yeast and leave overnight.Then I can rack it off the cold break material and into the primary next to it.
Well, thats the plan anyway.


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## jgriffin (8/1/06)

Ah, so you actually built the brew room especially?
One thing i'm curios of, is have you brewed on it yet? I did a couple of boils indoors, but found the amount of steam produced impossible to vent, just wondering on how you manage to handle it.


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## Prof. Pils (8/1/06)

First came the plan, then everything was made to the mm.Originally I wanted the 3B 2100 until I found out how much it would cost to land here. I've done it for less than half. No. still not brewed on it I've got 2 recirculating fans & 2 exhaust plus the door & windows and also the sliding door goes under the house. Nice cool air. I've been doing 3 x 20lt partial mash down here using my old 4 ring for about a year(long brew day) . No problems but if the forcast is more than 25C I'll reschedule.The 4 ring is rated at 59mj?hr but these duckbill burners are 120. I've fired them all up together to see how my pressure was going. OK. You couldn"t work in there with all on but I should only have more than 1 on at the start ( hlt & mash) and only for 1/2hr or so.Those burners work real good. Pumps work too. I've been planning for 2 years. another few weeks wont kill me.
Cheers Glenn


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## wessmith (8/1/06)

Jgriffin, I boil inside but have installed an extractor fan with 2 registers just above the mash tun/HLT and kettle connected to a reasonably powerful extractor fan mounted through the roof tiles. The ceiling is also 2.7m high which helps. No probs on the 3 brews to date in this new setup.

Wes


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## Goat (8/1/06)

amazing setup Prof. - great work.


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## Prof. Pils (8/1/06)

Thanks Goat, We came into a bit of money and it was either a HSV or invest in my 14yr hobby and build a bar & pool rm to go with it so my boys and their mates can imbibe of the juice of the grain in a safe invironment.
Oh, and then there's my mates as well.(though my best mate only drinks bourbon - very annoying)
By my calculations I'm saving 3-3.5K P/A and with 3 years documentation I'm only 6K down the gurgler to date (brewing and ancillary only)My beer's worth $40 a slab anyday!.In 2 yrs it"ll all be cream. Or beer in this case.
It just makes sense unless you're going to stop drinking beer.
Cheers Glenn.


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## Bigfella (9/1/06)

> BF,
> Just finished plumbing mine and Ive used a minimum of 5 (inc boiler) ball valves. Could possibly use another 3, but I reckon thats bordering on overkill...
> I'll try and get some pics later..



Thanks Linz I'm not sure of where to place those darn taps. I have an idea but I would like to see someone who has got a system working....
:super:


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## Linz (9/1/06)

BF,

Here's what Ive done...prolly ripped off from some-one on here !!






Also have a valve on the water filters too, so 6 in total. The 3 overkillers are another valve on the mash tun, one on the HLT and the third on the end of the tube to the boiler..


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## AndrewQLD (9/1/06)

Bigfella, I use a total of 7 taps, 1 on each of the vessels and 2 on the inlet side of pump and 2 on the outlet side of the pump. have a look at my photo page just follow the link at the bottom in my signature section.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Bigfella (9/1/06)

Thanks Linz off to the blumbing supplies I go


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## Justin (9/1/06)

Prof, that's a sensational system. Well done. It's got all the goodies. I'm looking forward to seeing some more pics and when it gets fired up. Be sure to post.

Bigfella, if your looking for single tier ideas check out my thread on my brewery. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...20and%20brewery

It's single tier and uses one march pump. It works very well in the lay out and plumbing design. Worth a look as it might help you out.

Also try looking at it on the brews and views forum, go to the photo gallery and you'll see JD's Single tier brewery near the top. http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi

Cheers, Justin


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## mobrien (9/1/06)

Andrew (and all those others with March pumps and hundreds of taps!  )

I'm curious - I'm a big fan of stainless myself, and am about to go and get a couple more stainless ball valves. However, eventually when (he he) I get my march pump, I'm guessing I will want a heap more taps. Do you guys use all stainless, or all brass, or stainless on the tuns, brass on the pump...

Whats the norm? Or rather, what do you do?

M


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## AndrewQLD (9/1/06)

mobrien said:


> Andrew (and all those others with March pumps and hundreds of taps!  )
> 
> I'm curious - I'm a big fan of stainless myself, and am about to go and get a couple more stainless ball valves. However, eventually when (he he) I get my march pump, I'm guessing I will want a heap more taps. Do you guys use all stainless, or all brass, or stainless on the tuns, brass on the pump...
> 
> ...



No Stainless taps on mine Mobrien just the standard ball valves from the plumbing supply shop. I am after all just a POOR humble home brewer  

Cheers
Andrew


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## Justin (9/1/06)

I use nickel plated brass for all my valves. Mainly because of all the money I'd have tied up in my valves if they were all stainless (there is enough money tied up in my brass valves anyway). As far as fittings, mine are a mix of brass and stainless. If the price difference between brass and SS was minimal I went stainless, where there was a big gap I went brass (eg. hose barbs, mine are brass-the stainless were much dearer plus I fear I might buy polysulfone QD's down the track which would leave me with unused SS barbs).

It's totally up to you and how much money you want to spend on it. Fittings add up really quickly. I'm happy with brass, others aren't so it's personal choice.


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## Linz (9/1/06)

The valves I got were just what came along at the right time and at the right price...

You can 'pickle' the brass and no-ones the wiser...but you're a bit richer


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## Prof. Pils (9/1/06)

Justin said:


> Prof, that's a sensational system. Well done. It's got all the goodies. I'm looking forward to seeing some more pics and when it gets fired up. Be sure to post.
> 
> Bigfella, if your looking for single tier ideas check out my thread on my brewery. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...20and%20brewery
> 
> ...


Thanks Justin, Yours looks like it brews a good beer.Its amazing how we all come up with different solutions to the same problems. I'll post some more pics when its all going.
Cheers Glenn


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## mobrien (9/1/06)

Linz, 

I assume by pickling you mean the Hydrogen Peroxide formula soaking to get rid of any surface lead?

M


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## dreamboat (9/1/06)

Prof Pils....
Looking at the pictures you posted, I see one which shows a s/s vessel with a copper coil it in with water pouring in from the top.
If that is your boiler, and your planned method of transferring your sparge liquor to it, you might want a rethink.



dreamboat


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## Prof. Pils (9/1/06)

Its the heat exchanger in the HLT. I've copied Morebeers SMART system.
Ran 20lt water thru system today (12min) and tested inline oxy.Worked a treat.
I've got a shower head at the end of line & it just dribbles out . A bit of oxy & you should see the turbulance in the hose and little waves in the fermenter. This is good.Too much pressure & it backs up to the kettle(using old fermenter at moment) and stops the pump.Added bonus is being able to purge the whole system or maybe I should use CO2.
Hmm another tee piece.
Cheers Glenn.


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## Rex (9/1/06)

Prof. Pils said:


> Its the heat exchanger in the HLT. I've copied Morebeers SMART system.
> Ran 20lt water thru system today (12min) and tested inline oxy.Worked a treat.
> [post="101662"][/post]​



Hey Prof, 

Bloddy nice system.

Where did you get your oxygen cylinder and regulator? What's the cost, as I was think of doing the same?


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## warrenlw63 (9/1/06)

mobrien said:


> So - to the question - have I missed anything?! What should I be adding in the design phase?
> 
> Matt
> [post="100614"][/post]​



Matt.

That's a very nice shed.  I'll swap you for my abestos-roofed monster anyday.

Another option for your frame. I used 2nd Hand Dexion for the whopping price of $70. Bolted to your wall it would survive a nuclear war.

As Justin said the wooden stool makes a handy addition when you're mashing in. :beerbang: 

I've also got a HLT mixer made from an old wiper motor, 12v battery charger and some aluminium strip. Seems to keep temps in the HLT fairly even. 

Hope this helps.

Warren -


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## Linz (9/1/06)

Dude,

Dexion rocks..looks good painted too.


No stools in this brew house...nothing above chest height. B)


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## jase0_1 (9/1/06)

awwwwsssooommmmeeee


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## Prof. Pils (9/1/06)

Rex said:


> Prof. Pils said:
> 
> 
> > Its the heat exchanger in the HLT. I've copied Morebeers SMART system.
> ...


Thanks Rex, The oxy($38) & reg(100) from local BOC. The inline from morebeer (Part# FE390A US$78) plus freight.
Thanks Guys for all the praise but couldn"t have achieved without the invaluable info gleaned (almost raped) from this forum from guys like Doc, Ross,Warren. DMK,Darren & countless others.These Guys are A/G gurus.All I've achieved is a good partial Pils, a reasonable milk stout & a handy skill with power tools.I've just put the right bits together.It's a long & difficult journey to Beer Nirvana.
Just so we can stay on topic- here's my next system.
You can order it from B3. 
All U need is a lazy $200K for one with all fruit salad.
AAAAAHHHH dream on. " ADD TO CART"
Cheers Glenn.


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## wessmith (9/1/06)

Pro.Pils, just give us a call when your ready - thats one of ours.

Wes


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## warrenlw63 (9/1/06)

Wes. What's the mate's rate?  :lol: 

Warren -


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## Prof. Pils (9/1/06)

wessmith said:


> Pro.Pils, just give us a call when your ready - thats one of ours.
> 
> Wes
> [post="101741"][/post]​


so much plumbing. AAhh I'll be back in a minute or about 4


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## Prof. Pils (9/1/06)

wessmith said:


> Pro.Pils, just give us a call when your ready - thats one of ours.
> 
> Wes
> [post="101741"][/post]​


just keep trying lotto!


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## homebrewworld.com (9/1/06)

Dude,

Dexion rocks..looks good painted too.

No stools in this brew house...nothing above chest height. 


Looks good mate....!!!!
So, lets get crackin on a all-day, all night, fill up the Wine Barrell full of beer night !

Prost !
:beerbang:


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## Prof. Pils (9/1/06)

wessmith said:


> Pro.Pils, just give us a call when your ready - thats one of ours.
> 
> Wes
> [post="101741"][/post]​


Just be there Wes with your balaclava ready when I say go.And we"ll go halves.
Cheers glenn


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## Justin (10/1/06)

$38 sounds like a pretty fair price to me for the oxygen. I'm guessing that excludes the bottle rental? If not then why do they charge $100+ for bottle rental for CO2.

Some nice systems surfacing here guys, good work.

Cheers, Justin


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## Prof. Pils (10/1/06)

Justin,I'm still waiting on the paperwork for the rental and those prices dont inc GST.I'm going to get my lpg, co2 & nitro mix in future from BOC.
One stop shopping!
Cheers Glenn..


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## Prof. Pils (10/1/06)

Well I have'nt been idle today. Put my sparge arm together.She goes every which way but loose.I ordered 1 from B3 but I could"nt get it to do what I wanted.It's
gone to rest in my plumbing bits box. Interested in comments b4 I solder.
Cheers Glenn.


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## warrenlw63 (11/1/06)

Prof Pils.

Very interesting use for shower arms. :lol: Any reason it needs to be so long? :unsure: 

Warren -


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## Prof. Pils (11/1/06)

They"re just standard size shower arms Warren.It will allow me do any size mash from top to bottom. Unfortunately I wont be able to put the lid on the mash tun whilst in use.I think I'll be watching anyway! The 1 from B3 only had about 6" movement up & down. Lets hope it works. <_< I read somewhere that I need to use a special solder with no lead in it. Does anyone know ?
Cheers Glenn.


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## warrenlw63 (11/1/06)

Yep,

True story. Look for the Aquasafe Lead-Free brand. They usually have it at Bunnings.

Warren -


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## Prof. Pils (11/1/06)

Thanks Warren,I'm there nearly everyday.
Cheers Glenn.


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## Justin (12/1/06)

Yep, Warrens right. It's called Aquasafe 100, unfortunately it's only available by the roll and is about $23-26. I've never seen it available anywhere but Bunnings-even from plumbing shops, no one knows about it.

As far as I'm aware it is 95% Tin, 5% Antimony or Zn?? Or something like that anyway. 95/5

Cheers, Justin


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## warrenlw63 (12/1/06)

This is the one I use.

Brand is Kester Aquabond. Available from Bunnings. You can get just the solder for about $15 a roll IIRC. Either that or buy the kit with the recommended flux and brush for around $20.  

Warren -


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## Justin (12/1/06)

My roll is a fair bit bigger than that and of a different brand too. Anyway, one and the same.

Why is it that we get shafted on Bunnings prices here in Tassie too by the way. I noticed someone posted that bunnings had a 15m roll of 1/2" for about $50 that they said was in the latest catalogue/flyer. I was in Hobarts bunnings the other day and swung past the plumbing isle and noticed an 18m roll of 1/2" was over $100 bucks. WTF!

Pint of Lager quoted "Latest Bunnings flyer has a 15m coil of 12.7mm for $49. Don't buy it by the metre, I think I had to pay $6.50 a metre the other day from the plumbing suppliers, the scrap metal recyclers had none. "

Pisses me off, that's all. If it was $50 a roll here I'd grab some and make a herms tomorrow. At over $100 I wont. By the way other plumbing places aren't much cheaper.


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## warrenlw63 (12/1/06)

Justin.

Don't think it's prices that vary so much from Bunnings to Bunnings per se, it's more the stock they carry at the time.

When I went to my local Bunnings they had quite a fair bit of soldering equipment. The range was very confusing as with all things plumbing. I like you got no help from plumbing suppliers like Tradelink either. They suggested I use silver rods. :lol: 

May just depend on what they have at the time. Pretty certain the stuff I got was about $15 a roll. There's a fair bit there too. I've already soldered up a few things and still got plenty to spare. Unfortunately lead-free solder just isn't that common. Given the fact it should be used on drinking water pipes you'd think it would be more readily available. :blink: 

Warren -


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## Justin (12/1/06)

Yeah, sorry I wasn't bitching about the aquasafe so much as the copper. We are getting shafted here, bottom line.

I agree though on the lead free sodler, given it's law in the US (as far as I'm aware) to use lead free solder on water pipes I thought it would be similar here. I asked at Tradelink and a range of other plumbing stores and no-one knew anything about lead free solder and infact told me it doesn't exist.

Of course lead solder on water pipes, nev nve neeev neever did me nun harmmm. :wacko: :unsure: :lol: 

I just wish I could pick up some copper that cheap.

Cheers, Justin


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## warrenlw63 (12/1/06)

Oh bugger! Sorry about that Justin!  

Thought that 1/2 inch solder was a little bit big. :lol: :lol: 

Warren -


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## warrenlw63 (12/1/06)

BTW.

It's always very tempting when you see the Plumber's truck next door with rolls of the stuff just hanging there doing nothing eh? h34r: 

Note: I've never done it so any Plumbers on the forum don't need to flame me with their very nice torches.  

Warren -


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## redbeard (12/1/06)

re copper tubing
strangely, i found the local mitre10 was much cheaper than bunnins. perhaps they dont sell a lot & it had an old price ;-)


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## timmy (12/1/06)

What's wrong with silver solder from a fridge shop? You wont need more than a couple of sticks and its cheaper. No flux req'd for copper to copper.


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## Justin (12/1/06)

But don't you also need a brazing torch to work with it? I've done all my soldering with the lead free stuff above and a bernzomatic propane torch. If I had easy access to a brazing torch I'd silver solder or braze stuff.

I wish I could find this stuff in Australia. It would be handy for my many stainless projects: Stay-Brite Silver Bearing Solders

http://www.jwharris.com/jwprod/solderalloys/

Basically a low melting point solder that easily solders stainless etc and can be done with a propane torch. I'd be handy for fabricating stainless stuff that doesn't have to sit over a NASA.


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## timmy (12/1/06)

blue tip can be used with propane but flux is needed.

I usually use a mapp gas torch when i don't feel like dragging out the oxy set.


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