# Brand new Intertap beer tap leaking



## gurglebeers (28/6/16)

Hello,

I recived my new intertap about a week ago and it is leaking a bit out the top where the lever enters the faucet i think they call it the bonnet or crown. i dont know wheather or not i should put lube on the seals and parts but i removed the bonnet/crown and re seated and it still leaks

the problem is if i do it up tight the auto close spring doesent work properly and there is still a pool of liquid up near the lever it refils if i try to soak it up with paper towel,
if i unscrew till the auto close spring works fine there is a constant drip every 10 seconds from the bonnet/cown

this is causing me alot of distress i purchased this tap because my old one used to leak! 

thank you

here is a picture


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## Zorco (29/6/16)

I know that type of annoyance mate. Don't worry, it will be sorted.

Firstly, take notes, when did the leak start; what was the dispensing pressure; had it ever not leaked; details.

Contact your supplier and start a friendly dialogue.

I remember finding a post and a couple of his videos about the leak. Will try and dig up when I'm in the office.

Did you only have only the one tap?


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## Yob (29/6/16)

return it and get Floryte's..

case closed


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## wealsy22 (29/6/16)

Yob said:


> return it and get Floryte's..
> 
> case closed


 +1. Andale stuff is worth the extra coin!


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## sp0rk (29/6/16)

Yob said:


> return it and get Floryte's..
> 
> case closed


I prefer my DAs, but any Andale taps are the correct choice


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## Zorco (29/6/16)

We are not addressing his query directly here gents....


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## Zorco (29/6/16)

gurglebeers, I tracked this down from a video

In section below, the solid circles are the o-rings I believe. I'd inspect the top, horizontal o-ring that is on the tap handle. She would need lubrication. If it was damaged, find a new one and try it out.

Looks like the only sealing element for fluid rising up to the tap handle mate.


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## Yob (29/6/16)

zorsoc_cosdog said:


> We are not addressing his query directly here gents....


no, absolutely correct, he's being given top shelf advice.

Ditch the cheap shit taps you will likely always have trouble with and get quality products that will last you for years of faithful service.


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## Zorco (29/6/16)

gurglebeers,

Yob's point is fine. But it is completely understood that you'd try the Intertap thinking it is decent. I nearly chose them too. peteru and other clever people have also gone with them. Simply ditching them may not be an option as well. So let's work with what we have first.....At this point it is irrelevant if Andales are better or not.

Let me know how you go with the o-ring investigation. Then a warranty claim.....but I'd caution against taking on this buyer's regret fuel. 


Problems have solutions.


Edit: Predicting replies. No I'm not against him succeeding in a refund and turning to Andales....If that is what he wants, if that is possible, if he can afford the coin....
Edit2: What would be nice is someone hunting down some excellent second hand Andales to show us.....


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## Zorco (29/6/16)

Here we go all.

I bought my taps from this bloke. He is a genuinely excellent operator. I couldn't be happier with my Andales

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/beer-font-/112039041527?hash=item1a160c19f7:g:h3YAAOSwbYZXb5wh

And the sensual taipan / cobra
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/beer-font-/112039037551?hash=item1a160c0a6f:g:ZFkAAOSw3YNXb5nF

I'll post over on the other thread as well


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## GalBrew (29/6/16)

zorsoc_cosdog said:


> gurglebeers, I tracked this down from a video
> 
> In section below, the solid circles are the o-rings I believe. I'd inspect the top, horizontal o-ring that is on the tap handle. She would need lubrication. If it was damaged, find a new one and try it out.
> 
> Looks like the only sealing element for fluid rising up to the tap handle mate.


They are a carbon copy of a perlick aside from the removable nozzle.


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## tomdavis (29/6/16)

Easy now lads.. 

I have some SS Intertaps and I love them. 

I did however have initial leaks from the same place, and this was simply down to me putting the auto-close spring in the wrong way round. 

The spring is cone shaped, in that it has a small end and a large end. Small end should go in the tap, large end in the shank IIRC.

Because the spring was inserted incorrectly, it wasn't pushing back hard enough on the shuttle. This meant I wasn't able to have the auto-spring too tight otherwise it wouldn't spring the handle back, so it leaked. 

Can I ask you to try turning the spring around gurglebeers, and you should then find you are able to tighten the auto-spring screw a few more turns- then try re-tightening it all up again and see if you get the same problem?


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## Reman (29/6/16)

Another thread had a similar problem, they contacted keg King who sent out different size washers to fit under the handle. Not sure if it solved the problem, buts it's probably worth contacting KK with a pic or video of the problem.


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## Zorco (29/6/16)

Yeah, I didn't want to seem like intertap is not good enough. Apologies if I said that. I've never used one.

So,
I tracked down the post with the videos [Edit: By ChefKing who posted below!]
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/87902-keg-king-intertap/?p=1379728

and FWIW, I found the link to the intertap drawings
http://www.intertap.beer/products/
http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Intertap%208039.pdf


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## peteru (29/6/16)

GalBrew said:


> They are a carbon copy of a perlick aside from the removable nozzle.


No they are not. The Perlick has the shaft and shuttle connected such that the shuttle travels in an arc. The Intertap has a sliding arrangement where the shuttle is a bit lose and travels linearly. The tiny bit of give in the Intertap allows the shuttle seal to align against the front. I suggest you watch the Intertap video on their site that explains how their design differs.

Having said that, I'm not sure if the manufacturing tolerances of the Intertap are adequate for the design tolerances.

I've got three Intertaps and they all suffer from some degree of grinding that I can't completely sort out. The auto-close springs don't work too well at all. Brand new they were OK, but after a keg or two, they are not strong enough to push the tap closed, when I tighten the top collar to prevent leakage. If I loosen the collar such that the auto-close spring does the job, I get seeping / slow leaks out the top of the tap.

Which reminds me, I'd better shoot Keg King an email and see if they have any suggestions as to what can be done...


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## ChefKing (29/6/16)

I had the exact same problem.... I made a vid and sent it to KK.

This was their reply:

The quickest fix is to replace this washer with a slightly thicker one. I will send out 3 of these to you in an envelope which you will be able to replace the original washers with. To replace it is simply unscrewing the top bonnet, taking out the black washer currently located inside, and fitting it with the new ones I will have sent.

Was a bit of hassle to put the new washer in correctly, but once done it has worked perfectly since!


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## peteru (30/6/16)

Thanks for the suggestion @ChefKing

At this stage, anything is worth a try in case it fixes the problem. However....

I am sceptical if that will help in my case. The grinding action seems to come from either the way the shuttle slides in the tap body or the way the handle shaft moves in the shuttle itself. I get the grinding feel even if the bonnet is not tight. My theory is that the shuttle is too loose in the tap body and because of that it actually twists and seizes a bit. The problem is that one can't see what's going on inside at beer temperatures. What you observe when the tap is disassembled being handled at room temperature could be different due to thermal expansion of the metal.

I suspect that a thicker washer under the bonnet will just make it easier to apply pressure to the plastic olives and squeeze them together to prevent leaks. Doing so will naturally increase friction on the ball part of the shaft, which is what is preventing the spring from performing it's function. I have seen your videos with the leak. I'm not suffering from that problem, for me the symptom is very slow oozing at the top and the auto-close not working. My understanding is that @gurglebeers has exactly the same issue - minus the grinding.

BTW: I've lubricated all moving parts of my taps fairly well with LubriFilm Plus, which is the Keg King recommended lubricant.


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## peteru (30/6/16)

I sent a message to Keg King, we'll see what they come back with.

@gurglebeers - if you get a response from Keg King, please come back and share your experiences. Good or bad. If there's a fix, others will want to know about it. If there isn't, then it's important that potential buyers of Intertaps are aware of any issues they may be buying into.

At this stage I'm giving Keg King the benefit of the doubt and we'll see if these are just some teething problems with a new product that they can solve. On the other hand, if it turns out that Intertaps are a fundamentally flawed design, then I feel like I am obliged to inform the community.


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## gurglebeers (30/6/16)

zorsoc_cosdog said:


> I know that type of annoyance mate. Don't worry, it will be sorted.
> 
> Firstly, take notes, when did the leak start; what was the dispensing pressure; had it ever not leaked; details.
> 
> ...


When i first used the tap it leaked above the bonnet but im guessing it was just from being too lose i tightend it up and for 2 days there was no leaks, i woke up that morning to find a small puddle under the tap i dispense at 11 psi

I have contacted the retailer and recived a reply i only purchased the 1 tap


Carlos The Gerbil said:


> Easy now lads..
> 
> I have some SS Intertaps and I love them.
> 
> ...


My spirings smaller part is up against the shuttle i will try switching it around and see if it makes a difference



ChefKing said:


> I had the exact same problem.... I made a vid and sent it to KK.
> This was their reply:
> 
> The quickest fix is to replace this washer with a slightly thicker one. I will send out 3 of these to you in an envelope which you will be able to replace the original washers with. To replace it is simply unscrewing the top bonnet, taking out the black washer currently located inside, and fitting it with the new ones I will have sent.
> ...


This was like the response i got im hoping my issue is solved so easy


peteru said:


> Thanks for the suggestion @ChefKing
> 
> At this stage, anything is worth a try in case it fixes the problem. However....
> 
> ...


I am hoping this is not the case the auto close spring is my favorite part of these taps i also lubricated my parts but it didnt make a difference only now the pour is not a solid stream im going to remove all the lubricant lubricant and see what differences i get.


peteru said:


> I sent a message to Keg King, we'll see what they come back with.
> 
> @gurglebeers - if you get a response from Keg King, please come back and share your experiences. Good or bad. If there's a fix, others will want to know about it. If there isn't, then it's important that potential buyers of Intertaps are aware of any issues they may be buying into.
> 
> At this stage I'm giving Keg King the benefit of the doubt and we'll see if these are just some teething problems with a new product that they can solve. On the other hand, if it turns out that Intertaps are a fundamentally flawed design, then I feel like I am obliged to inform the community.


I recived a responce about 12 hours after i sent the first email to the retailer

They said this is an easy fix and that i would need to replace the black washer under the bonnet apparently the washer is undersized they asked for my name and address and how many taps i purchased im guessing they are going to send me a new seal/washer.


I had an andale EK swing tap before the intertap it was great but the lock nut seal broke and the sealing cone on the end of the shaft cracked love the tap but it was time for an upgrade im guessing the tap is around 15 years old it was previously used by someone in 2002 for there dispensing and they got it from a bar way before that it only ever had the original seal kit so they lasted a fair while!

Thanks everyone for the help.


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## Bonnie&Clydes (30/6/16)

I purchased 10 of these with the flow control valve. 2 of them had this problem but to fix it i simply tightened it slightly.

I hope im not causing damage to the internals but it fixed the problem for me.

Also, I replaced my Andale DA's with these and havnt regretted it one bit 
Dan.


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## Bonnie&Clydes (30/6/16)

I purchased 10 of these with the flow control valve. 2 of them had this problem but to fix it i simply tightened it slightly.

I hope im not causing damage to the internals but it fixed the problem for me.

Also, I replaced my Andale DA's with these and havnt regretted it one bit 
Dan.


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## peteru (30/6/16)

I've heard back from Keg King and they are aware that one of the first batches of the taps had slightly thinner washers than they should have. This can apparently cause leaking issues for some people, but not all. They will be sending a new set of thicker washers, which they reckon will fix the problems I reported. I guess I'll wait until they get here, install them and see how it goes.


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## Zorco (30/6/16)

ChefKing has proactively run this gauntlet. I hope his experience translates to you and the OP! 

Distress, BE GONE!


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## Reman (2/7/16)

I bought my two FC taps about a month ago, they were definitely from a new batch as I had to wait a couple of weeks after ordering for them to come through. I haven't had problems with leaks so it may definitely be an early batch teething issue.

However the first time I pulled them apart to clean, there was a lot of bubbling from the percarbonate, so I'm guessing there may be some manufacturing gunge that it might be good practice to clean and relube before first use.


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## mofox1 (2/7/16)

Definitely clean before use!

I got in contact with keg king, and even though I bought the intertaps from another retailer (one of the great site sponsors, thanks!) they are sending out replacement washers.

You gotta be happy with that service.


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## gurglebeers (6/7/16)

Just got an envelope with the seal inside I will post a picture of the difference when i pull it apart might have to pour a few beers before hand just incase.

Well it works before i had no visible thread on the bonnet/crown now there is some avalible, there is no liquid pooling in the bonnet/crown now but only time will tell if this is the fix


New seal on the left seal that come with the intertap on the right


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## Zorco (6/7/16)

Bonnie&Clydes said:


> I purchased 10 of these with the flow control valve. 2 of them had this problem but to fix it i simply tightened it slightly.
> 
> I hope im not causing damage to the internals but it fixed the problem for me.
> 
> ...


There is still time... 

So, you have DAs available?


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## mofox1 (6/7/16)

gurglebeers said:


> Just got an envelope with the seal inside I will post a picture of the difference when i pull it apart might have to pour a few beers before hand just incase.
> 
> Well it works before i had no visible thread on the bonnet/crown now there is some avalible, there is no liquid pooling in the bonnet/crown now but only time will tell if this is the fix
> 
> ...


Got mine in the mail yesterday too. I could tell through the envelope that they were much thicker. Haven't got round to replacing them yet. Tonight maybes.


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## scooterism (6/7/16)

Can you guys share the thicknesses of the two washers?

Could be a handy reference.


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## peteru (7/7/16)

My washers have just arrived. The dimensions are:

*Old washer*
Outer diameter 19.5mm
Inner diameter 12.1mm
Thickness 1.9mm

*New washer*
Outer diameter 19.6mm
Inner diameter 12.3mm
Thickness 2.5mm

I'll install in the next few days and see how it goes.


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## scooterism (7/7/16)

peteru said:


> My washers have just arrived. The dimensions are:
> 
> *Old washer*
> Outer diameter 19.5mm
> ...



Thanks for that..


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## Zorco (10/7/16)

So what's the level of success / failure / progress with these intertaps? 

Hope silence equates to happiness.


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## peteru (11/7/16)

I was going to install the new washer this weekend, since I was expecting a keg to run out. However, I've been drinking less and busy with other things, so it didn't happen yet. Three's still beer coming out.

I'm happy to hear from others on how their Intertaps responded to the thicker washer.


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## gurglebeers (11/7/16)

Hello guys,

So it has been 6 days since i replaced the old seal with the newer thicker seal i was sent, last night i cleaned my beer lines and ran the keg dry with the cleaning solution the beer line was filled with gas there was a hissing coming from the bonnet/crown i unscrewed the bonnet/crown and reseated, hooked on a new keg and there was no leaks so i will call this a success

now there is one though, peteru mentioned in his post that the new washer would cause the auto spring to not work this is the case currently the auto close spring does not work but i will have to loosen it off today and see if it leaks when loosend with the new seal

overall i am happy there are no leaks now

Thank you,


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## gurglebeers (11/7/16)

Sorry guys i was meant to say now there still is the problem of the spring not working right
everything is fixed apart from the auto close spring but my problem is solved with the leaky intertap at this moment it might take a couple off weeks of use and cleaning to really get a final answer


By the way, these seals seem to raise the bonnet/crown more than expected when looking at thed two side by side
i am thinking this has something to do with the seal getting deformed when tightening the bonnet/crown
because when i tryed out the old seal this afternoon the bonnet/crown went right down past the treads on the intertap main body
when i removed the seal there was a mark on the seal and it was not square on the center this new seal must also keep the nylon washers in place better


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## Coldspace (11/7/16)

I've had one fc intertap I bought with stout nossel for about 5 weeks now. No issue, pours stout and Irish reds awesome.
Hopefully it has the thicker seal in it. But I've put 2 kegs through with no issues yet. Each week thou I've flushed it with water so it stays clean.


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## mofox1 (11/7/16)

gurglebeers said:


> Sorry guys i was meant to say now there still is the problem of the spring not working right
> everything is fixed apart from the auto close spring but my problem is solved with the leaky intertap at this moment it might take a couple off weeks of use and cleaning to really get a final answer


Punctuation helps.

So does stretching out the spring next time you break it apart to clean.


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## peteru (11/7/16)

I meant to say a week or so ago that I tried stretching the springs and it has had close to no effect for me. It may have made a tiny bit of difference to the push back pressure, but not enough to actually make auto-close work properly.

I suppose I should put the new seals in and see where I end up. Maybe tonight, but first I need to put down a brew - the yeast starter is ready to go...


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## peteru (12/7/16)

I changed the washer on one of the taps last night and tightened the bonnet just enough that the auto-close would still work. No sign of leaks or seepage after about 8 hours. There is also less grinding when operating the tap, but it's not perfectly smooth. Not even as smooth as it was when the tap was brand new.

We'll see how it goes in the long term. The thinner washers were also OK for the first keg or two.


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## scooterism (12/7/16)

peteru said:


> I changed the washer on one of the taps last night and tightened the bonnet just enough that the auto-close would still work. No sign of leaks or seepage after about 8 hours. There is also less grinding when operating the tap, but it's not perfectly smooth. Not even as smooth as it was when the tap was brand new.
> 
> We'll see how it goes in the long term. The thinner washers were also OK for the first keg or two.



Maybe a quick video will help?


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## peteru (13/7/16)

scooterism said:


> Maybe a quick video will help?


What do you mean? I don't think there's anything to see. Unless you want a video of me changing a washer... :unsure:

In summary, the thicker washers certainly help, but I'm not ready to declare a proper fix after testing only one tap and only 24 hours (or about three or four beers) later. If all three taps continue to work as well as the one where I just changed the washer and do so without issues keg after keg, then it's fixed. Let's assume that the beer seeping and auto-close not working problems are fixed. If not - I'll report back.


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## Coldspace (13/7/16)

No leaks for me yet...
But I've only had my about 6 weeks and few kegs through it. 
Here's hoping mine came with the improved washer setup


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## Zorco (9/8/16)

Peteru and crew, can anyone declare the new washers a fix now?


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## mofox1 (9/8/16)

Still no issues.

Thunderbirds are go.


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## peteru (9/8/16)

Yes, no issues to report after replacing the washer. However, the tap with the replaced washer has not been through a complete disassembly, perc soak, lube and reassembly cycle yet. That's when the original washers started exhibiting problems. I don't *expect* to see issues, but can't be *sure* just yet.


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## gurglebeers (20/8/16)

My intertaps auto close spring does not work when the bonnet is screwed down till there are no leaks i think thats something im gunna have to live with though, but its been a while since i pulled it apart and it has developed a leak at the same spot with the new washer i will lubericate the bonnet tommorow to fix that issue.

How are you guys going with yours now?


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## Meddo (29/8/16)

I've put replacement washers on the three FC taps I've got that were leaking - a month later still working fine. I stripped them down and cleaned everything before replacing the washers but haven't blown any kegs since so no further cleaning or strip-downs yet.

The three taps I got from an earlier batch, bought around March or April from memory, have never had any issues.


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## gurglebeers (5/9/16)

Mine havent leaked since my last post i just cleaned the beer line and soaked the taps removed the bonnet and screwed it down again i must be doing something wrong guys or something other than the seal is playing up on my tap.


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## mofox1 (5/9/16)

I'm assuming from that post that after cleaning it is leaking (yar?).

Apply lube liberally - if it wasn't leaking before, then there is no reason it should be leaking now. Just dont screw down too hard on the bonnet - make sure the plastic seats for the tap handle are situated correctly, on mine the seat for the top plastic bit does not extend further than 0.5mm past the top of the tap body. The bonnet (and washer) then screws down on that. I leave around 2 to 3 threads remaining with the new washers. All internal components have been lubed.. possibly more than necessary but hay it works yeah? Run thru with hot perc, if it is leaking tighten it up til it doesn't. Then run cold starsan thru and you should be good to go.


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## peteru (5/9/16)

I'd suggest that you hop on the phone to Keg King and have a chat. They'll be able to ask you relevant questions and give appropriate advice. So far the thicker washers are holding up OK for me, but I find that the auto-close spring is mostly ineffective. If I tighten the collar such that the auto-close operates OK at the start of the keg, by the time I get to the end of the keg the tap stays stuck open and requires a nudge to close.


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## mofox1 (6/9/16)

Peteru, are you sure you've got the right springs? I (incorrectly) assumed that the springs that came with the kk shanks would work, but the ones for the intertap were actually sold separately. The intertap ones are stiffer and should definitely close your taps.. mine (now) spring back with a resounding thunk.


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## peteru (6/9/16)

Yep, they are specifically the auto-close springs for the Intertap, sold as an optional extra. The springs close the tap when the collar is not too tight. The problem is that when the collar is not tight it tends to seep a tiny bit. Not enough to drip, but enough to have a layer of sticky gunk coat the tap around the collar and all the way to the underside. The springs also close fine just after the tap is cleaned, lubricated and assembled. It's only after a number of days of use that they start sticking in the open position. It only takes a gentle nudge to make the tap spring back and auto-close, but just letting go of the handle will no longer do the trick. I might try loosening the collar a little bit when they start sticking and see if the seepage appears. It may just be that it is a very fine balance that requires ongoing adjustment. It's annoying though, I just wish it would work without fiddling.


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## peteru (13/9/16)

So, I put on two new kegs on the weekend. Run some perc through the lines and taps. Replaced washers on the two taps that had the original washers with the thicker ones. I only replaced the washers, without disassembling the rest of the tap. Adjusted the tension so that the auto-close would just start to stick, then backed off a tiny bit until it would close. Run some clean water through, hooked up the new kegs and immediately heard hissing from both taps as the air in the lines was escaping. I run about half a glass of beer through each tap and waited about a minute. Both taps were slowly seeping beer. I tightened both taps until the seeping was not obvious and tried pouring more beer. Both taps were still working with auto-close, but without obvious leaks. I'm not sure if the pressure in the taps or the cold taps help, but auto-close seems to work slightly better when the taps are "in-circuit" as opposed to without load.

Checked for seeping the next day. One tap had evidence of slight seepage, the other one seemed fine. I tightened the seeping tap and the auto-close works about 80% of the time. It seems to be sensitive to how I pull on the tap handle. Straight pull seems fine, any slight sideways pressure on the handle causes it to stick.

I'm coming to the conclusion that the Intertaps with new washers are fine, but the auto-close mechanism is fiddly and lets the whole thing down. Maybe stronger springs would help. I think the Intertaps will probably be fine taps, as long as they manage to sort out these early product issues and fine tune their future production runs.


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## mofox1 (13/9/16)

Agree Peteru.. I've now had a couple of slight drip scenarios due to the spring tension thing. I loosened one of my taps recently as the auto-close was sticking and the next day there was definite leakage. Cleaned up and re-lubed and now all good, but a bit miffed that I had to clean it before the keg blew.

As stated here Keg King reckons the supplied spring is sufficient... I think we can now believe otherwise. I'd happily go stiffer springs.

A note on the shuttles - I found with mine they certainly had a "good" side - for your 80% tap, try inverting the shuttle (and/or inspecting for rough edges or swarf).


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## peteru (13/9/16)

mofox1 said:


> As stated here Keg King reckons the supplied spring is sufficient... I think we can now believe otherwise. I'd happily go stiffer springs.


+1. Perhaps there is a difference between manufacturing batches and prototypes, but those springs just don't do the job without leaks.

I too would prefer a set of stiffer springs.




mofox1 said:


> A note on the shuttles - I found with mine they certainly had a "good" side - for your 80% tap, try inverting the shuttle (and/or inspecting for rough edges or swarf).


I'll take another look. On one of the taps, I ended up using some 1,000 grit wet and dry to polish off some of the rough edges on the tap shaft. The other two, I left alone. I'm not sure if the problematic tap is the one I cleaned up or one of the ones I left untouched. I'll have to check next time I have them all out. You can only tell when they are side by side. I did notice that the shuttles definitely feel different depending on the orientation. A similar thing goes for the shaft, it too has a slightly different feel depending on the installation direction. I think the problematic tap has a shuttle that never seems to align perfectly parallel with the tap body.

Next time I change kegs, I'll pay close attention to the orientation of the parts and see if there is an optimal combination. However, it shouldn't be that hard.


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## deanco (17/4/17)

I have just changed mine over to new washers. I ordered them sometime back when i saw you guys talking about this. However, i have to tighten them well to not have leaks or hiss release etc from the suspect area - when i do this the springs are not strong enough to do their job. I agree on the grinding, which is like metal on metal sound - certainly nothing like my other micromatic type taps which are nice to use.

After all this i am not happy with these taps despite KK being responsive. There are other aspects of this tap too which frustrate me and support the view i have, but probably not worth raising as i will be changing them.

I will be contacting KK about sending them back after giving it a good go. They should not be selling these in my mind, they are low quality engineering in my view.


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## blotto (17/4/17)

I do believe they have put out an updated version recently. Maybe you could get your taps replaced with the newer version. That is unless you have the latest one.


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## pist (18/4/17)

I bought my fc tap at the beginning of this year but opted to not go for the auto close spring. Would of poured over 60 beers through it now and not one problem. Happy with mine and think they are good value for money.


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## peteru (18/4/17)

You can't get autoclose on the flow control models. They are constructed differently.


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## Horatio (17/11/18)

So I read through this thread as one of my PC Intertaps gen 2 that I've had for few months has not been auto closing. I like most here with the problem have to wind down the collar so that it doesn't leak and this stops the leak from the bonnet and stops the auto close from working as well.

It has driven me nuts. New keg was about to be connected last night so cleaned the beer line and pulled the tap apart to fix it. 3 hours later mixing different washes and new seal kits with no luck. Put everything back the way it was and resolved to not having the auto close spring working. What to do.

After reading this thread last night looking for answers I realised how everyone mentioned the spring not being strong enough. 

So woke this morning ready to take the tap off and back to Keg King and thought to myslef "just stretch the spring and see what happens".

Problem solved.

Just wanted to share in case anyone else out there is having these issues.


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