# Yeast temperature - possible stuck fermentation



## TheApathyParty (25/8/13)

I started a brew a few days ago, using a Cascade Imperial Voyage Pale Ale - LME can. This is only my third brew, so I thought I would keep it simple and use the yeast that came with the can, which the guy at the Home Brew store told me was a larger yeast and would be fine at ambient. The stick on thermometer on my fermenter has ranged between 18-22 degrees.
It developed a thick krausen within the first 8 hrs. Now the airlock has stopped bubbling all together. 
The packet said BYeast x 76 2049 but I can't find any info on this yeast and the correct temperature. The nearest I could find was a WYeast 2049, which is apparently a Mead yeast. 
My OG was 1.038 and it currently sits at 1.017, my target was 1.007.

Can I save my beer?


----------



## philmud (25/8/13)

If its still around those temps, I can't imagine it's too cold. Hard to know without knowing the specific yeast. First of all, don't stress about the airlock inactivity, its not a good indicator of fermentation activity. Try agitating the fermenter gently (don't want to oxidise it), and see if that kicks things off. Even if you still get no bubbles, check the SG in a couple of days and see if it's moved. Don't stress though. You can still add more yeast next week if you want to, it won't hurt it to sit for a few days.

Edit: kit yeasts from under the lid are kept in very sub-optimum conditions. A pack of dry yeast from your LHBS will set you back about $7 and will do a much better job for you. Well worth while IMO.


----------



## TheApathyParty (25/8/13)

Thanks for the response Phil! 
I did at least rehydrate the yeast first! 
I was thinking about using a proper yeast, I will defiantly buy one next time, just to be sure. 

If it is a lager yeast, as the Home Brew store owner told me, could it be too warm?


----------



## MashPaddler (25/8/13)

Give it a good shake a couple of times a day to keep the yeast in suspension. If it has only been a couple of days, patience is your best bet right now. It might not finish that low given it is a kit but it will keep dropping if kept at that temperature. Guy at homebrew store isn't that bright if he is recommending lager yeast for an IPA kit. It might get there, but at those temps will be producing some interesting esters I would have thought.


----------



## philmud (25/8/13)

TheApathyParty said:


> If it is a lager yeast, as the Home Brew store owner told me, could it be too warm?


I don't think so, most lager kits are sold with a versatile ale yeast, I suspect he called it a lager yeast for simplicity sake but someone else may be able to clarify. In any case I think lager yeasts will still ferment warm, but will throw out off flavours - again though, someone will correct me if that's not right.


----------



## TheApathyParty (25/8/13)

Thanks for the advice guys. I have it a bit of a shake, and now I'll wait it out a bit and hope for the best! 
MashPaddler: I wasn't really thinking it would reach that FG, but somewhere close would be nice! 
What do you mean interesting esters? Do you mean complex flavours or off flavours?


----------



## TheApathyParty (27/8/13)

I checked the SG again today and it still sits at 1.017. It hasn't fermented at all in the last few days! Anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty inexperienced, so I'm at a loss!


----------



## philmud (27/8/13)

Did you just give it one shake, or a few times a day as per MP's suggestion? It's probably a few points higher than I'd like before bottling. I don't think it'd do any harm to sprinkle another (half) a packet of yeast over the surface and give it a gentle agitation. Anyone else got any ideas?


----------



## TheApathyParty (27/8/13)

I gave it a few shakes but it wasn't overly vigorous, I wasn't sure how much would be too much and didn't want to splash it around. Just gave it another, more vigorous, shake...


----------



## TheApathyParty (28/8/13)

I still wasn't getting any activity this morning, so I tried what you suggested, Phil, and sprinkled half a packet of yeast onto the surface and gently agitated it. Fingeres crossed something is happening when I get home from work!


----------



## philmud (31/8/13)

How'd this one go mate? Any more life? How's the SG?


----------



## TheApathyParty (31/8/13)

No good, after all that it still didn't come good... Same SG as when I first posted. I'll still bottle it and see if it comes out alright... I don't have high hopes though. 

Any ideas on what caused this? I don't want to make the same mistake, but I'm not 100% what it was. I think buying good yeast will be a step in the right direction!

Thanks heaps for the help Phil Mud and MashPaddler!


----------



## Screwtop (31/8/13)

If you ever do need to repitch to a stalled ferment it's best to add a pack of good quality fresh yeast to a couple of litres of wort. Make starter wort of around 1.040 using 100g DME per litre of water, boiled for 10 min and left to cool to 26C. Once the starter wort is active, pitch to the stalled ferment.

Screwy


----------



## TheApathyParty (31/8/13)

Screwtop said:


> If you ever do need to repitch to a stalled ferment it's best to add a pack of good quality fresh yeast to a couple of litres of wort. Make starter wort of around 1.040 using 100g DME per litre of water, boiled for 10 min and left to cool to 26C. Once the starter wort is active, pitch to the stalled ferment.
> 
> Screwy



Thanks Screwy, I'll keep that in mind if this happens again! I just sprinkled the dry yeast over the wort, as Phil Mud suggested.
What kind of situations could cause the fermentation to stall like this? Hopefully I can avoid dealing with it again. Will the under-fermented beer still be drinkable if i bottle it?


----------



## philmud (1/9/13)

Yeah sorry, the starter is probably a good idea given that the wort is largely fermented and not oxygenated.


----------



## Screwtop (3/9/13)

A good strong healthy fermentation can stall given adverse conditions, such as a cold snap, lack of fermentable sugar, high alcohol....... etc . 


Poor/less vigoous fermentation will stall more easily given the same conditions.

Screwy


----------



## Ross (3/9/13)

I would be very suspect of your measuring, as highly unlikely for a 1038 kit brew to stall at 1017 especially after a good fast start to fermentation.
Are you measuring with a hydrometer? 
Screwy's advice is the best for a stalled ferment. Be careful if bottling into glass if your FG is really 1017 as you're destined for bottle bombs,

If you want it double checked, bring a sample down to us at Capalaba if it's not too far & we'll check it for you.

cheers Ross


----------



## pcmfisher (4/9/13)

Ross was saying before about good and bad yeasts.
From my experience the yeast under the lid of Cascade tins is a bad yeast.
I don't know if its the age of it, the size of the packet or what, but it always seems to struggle and not finish off properly.


ps, not sure why pitching more yeast hasn't helped


----------



## Bridges (4/9/13)

Did you add anything else to the mix? Cascade can and kit yeast is all I'm seeing. Other ingredients may not be as fermentable.


----------



## TheApathyParty (4/9/13)

Hi guys thanks for the responses.

Ross: I'm actually over seas at the moment, my friend/brew partner is bottling it for me, otherwise I would take you up on your offer! I used a hydrometer to measure SG. Maybe I'm doing it wrong...? 

PCM: I had opened the top of the fermenter prior to pitching the second lot of yeast, maybe I had caused an infection in the mean time? Otherwise maybe as PhilMud and Screwtop say, I should have made a starter rather than dry pitching the yeast.

Bridges: I also added extra a maltodextrine/dextrose mixture from the home brew store where I bought the cascade can. I added some centennial and galaxy hops during the boil too.


----------

