# New To Ag



## Chookers (28/11/11)

Tried to do an 11Lt batch of Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale..

Ended up with 6.5L of S.G 1060.. What to do?? Suggestions??


I was surprised at how much space 2.2kg cracked Ale Malt takes up..


Does anyone know how much 1kg cracked grain equivalent to Litres of volume?? (if you know off the tops of your heads. Otherwise it'll have to wait till I get my stuff out again)
Reason I want to know is because Im hatching out an alternative method of doing my 11lt batches.


As for my 6.5Lt NS Summer Ale, I have added 2Lt filtered water.. S.G 1045, I have not yet added the yeast.. I am open to suggestion on how I can salvage this? (I had a taste it could do with more hops)


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## raven19 (28/11/11)

I max out my 50L Mash Tun with 17 - 18 kg of grain at 2.5L/kg if that helps - I would say with water added oyu are looking at just under 3L volume per kg of grain in the mash.

Edit - SG of 1045 is fine for an average strength alcohol beer, I would go ahead and ferment it.


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## adniels3n (28/11/11)

Do you mean "How much volume does 1kg of crushed grain take up"?
Are you attempting to use measuring jugs instead of scales?


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## Cocko (28/11/11)

Muddzy said:


> Do you mean "How much volume does 1kg of crushed grain take up"?
> Are you attempting to use measuring jugs instead of scales?



I think the OP is asking about grain displacement, as I don't know the answer can't reply on it but am pretty sure thats what they mean....

As in, a kg of grain in a 10L pot will use up X amount of volume that water will no longer be able to be in...

Correct me if I am wrong Chookers?


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## [email protected] (28/11/11)

Cocko said:


> I think the OP is asking about grain displacement, as I don't know the answer can't reply on it but am pretty sure thats what they mean....
> 
> As in, a kg of grain in a 10L pot will use up X amount of volume that water will no longer be able to be in...
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong Chookers?




If this is the case, this is a good quick calculator , without going into the ins and outs of learning brewing software

http://rackers.org/calcs.shtml/


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## Chookers (28/11/11)

Cocko said:


> I think the OP is asking about grain displacement, as I don't know the answer can't reply on it but am pretty sure thats what they mean....
> 
> As in, a kg of grain in a 10L pot will use up X amount of volume that water will no longer be able to be in...
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong Chookers?




Muddzy and Cocko your both right.
Though Im an interested in kg/Litre, Im not trying to use measuring jug vs scales (my juggs are'nt big enough :icon_chickcheers: heh).
I have a big 5Lt capacity food thermos, like the one pictured.. just wondering if I could mash in it.


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## bignath (28/11/11)

Chookers said:


> ....As for my 6.5Lt NS Summer Ale, I have added 2Lt filtered water.. S.G 1045, I have not yet added the yeast.. I am open to suggestion on how I can salvage this? (I had a taste it could do with more hops)



Wait until its been fermented before deciding about the hop presence. At the moment it's subdued under all the malt...as the yeast start eating, youll notice the hops starting to shine.


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## [email protected] (28/11/11)

Chookers said:


> Muddzy and Cocko your both right.
> Though Im an interested in kg/Litre, Im not trying to use measuring jug vs scales (my juggs are'nt big enough :icon_chickcheers: heh).
> I have a big 5Lt capacity food thermos, like the one pictured.. just wondering if I could mash in it.



Using that calculator i linked you, @ 2.8L of water / KG of grain you would be able to mash 1.4KG of grain in the 5L thermos.
So adding that to some good quality DME 1kg you could make around 14L of %5 beer.


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## Chookers (28/11/11)

Beer4U said:


> Using that calculator i linked you, @ 2.8L of water / KG of grain you would be able to mash 1.4KG of grain in the 5L thermos.
> So adding that to some good quality DME 1kg you could make around 14L of %5 beer.




That sounds awesome...
when you say DME you mean Dried Malt Extract right?? not Dark Malt Extract... just checking :icon_cheers:


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## Chookers (29/11/11)

raven19 said:


> I max out my 50L Mash Tun with 17 - 18 kg of grain at 2.5L/kg if that helps - I would say with water added oyu are looking at just under 3L volume per kg of grain in the mash.
> 
> Edit - SG of 1045 is fine for an average strength alcohol beer, I would go ahead and ferment it.




Thanks mate, 2.5L = 1 kg right.. 
Planning is the most time consuming part.


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## craigo (29/11/11)

i did something similar but didnt dilute it put in the fermenter at 1060 did a 60min boil with ammarillo hops will this be to bitter?


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## [email protected] (29/11/11)

Chookers said:


> That sounds awesome...
> when you say DME you mean Dried Malt Extract right?? not Dark Malt Extract... just checking :icon_cheers:



Yeah i mean what ever Dry malt extract you want to use.

I can highly recommend the Briess extracts, they are made specifically for making beer and IMO from using them you can taste the difference in the 
final product. 

Grain grape a large selection.


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## Chookers (29/11/11)

Beer4U said:


> Yeah i mean what ever Dry malt extract you want to use.
> 
> I can highly recommend the Briess extracts, they are made specifically for making beer and IMO from using them you can taste the difference in the
> final product.
> ...




Will do.
Is my 1kg of Coopers LDME anygood??


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## Chookers (29/11/11)

Newbie question on bulk priming (I have always use the carbo drops)

I have calculated that for 14L @ 2.2 CO2 I would need to add 81.2g Dextrose.. but how is this added. Do I stir it in to the fermenter just before bottling?

Also what CO2 should I be aiming for for an Australian Pale Ale??


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## bignath (29/11/11)

Chookers said:


> I have calculated that for 14L @ 2.2 CO2 I would need to add 81.2g Dextrose.. but how is this added. Do I stir it in to the fermenter just before bottling?
> 
> Also what CO2 should I be aiming for for an Australian Pale Ale??



NO. Dont stir it in, youll get bottles full of yeast.

You will need to get another vessel that you can bottle from. You add some boiling water to the sugar you are going to use to bulk prime with, and dissolve it. I use a glass pyrex jug. Approx 250ml should be fine to dissolve your sugar. You then pour this into your bottling vessel. The using a siphon or some kind of hose, transfer the fermented beer into the bottling vessel. The whirlpooling action this creates is enough to mix the sugar solution with the beer. 
Then once you've transferred, you're good to go ahead and bottle. The advantages of bulk priming is ultimate consistency of carbonation across the entire batch.
I also find it much quicker, even with an exta vessel to clean afterwards....

As for the level of carbonation, each and to their own, but id be aiming for around 2.5 volumes of CO2.


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## manticle (30/11/11)

Boil it up in some water before adding. This is most important.

I have bulk primed into the primary with success. However after adding, stir gently, then let sit for 10-30 minutes. Most times this worked for me but I did get 2 batches where 1/2 were flat and half were carbed.

NB: I also used to rack during the latter parts of fermentation which reduced sediment.

Nowadays I no longer rack during fermentation and I only do it to bulk prime, which does ensure the sugar is thoroughly mixed, with no real need to wait. Still needs to be boiled in solution though.


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## bignath (30/11/11)

manticle said:


> Boil it up in some water before adding. This is most important.
> (snip)
> Still needs to be boiled in solution though.



How come?

Whats wrong with boiling some water in a kettle and using this to dissolve the sugar?


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## manticle (30/11/11)

A solution of any type is fine. I mean as distinct from adding dry sugar straight in.

Some people boil for 10 minutes to ensure it's sanitary but the main point for me is dissolution. A sugar solution mixes into the beer better than dry, undissolved sugar.


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## bignath (30/11/11)

Yep, cool mate :icon_cheers:


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## Chookers (30/11/11)

Excellent.. thanks for you replies

Im learning so much on this forum.. its very cool :beerbang:


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## stux (30/11/11)

Chookers said:


> Tried to do an 11Lt batch of Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale..
> 
> Ended up with 6.5L of S.G 1060.. What to do?? Suggestions??
> 
> ...



1KG of cracked malt needs about 2L of volume to store. 

1KG of cracked malt displaces 0.7L of liquid, once doughed-in.

So if you can hold an 18L mash, you max liquid would be 18 - 2.2x0.7 = 16.46L, but its easier to doughin if you reserve a L or so in a jug, add your grain, and then add that back.



> As for my 6.5Lt NS Summer Ale, I have added 2Lt filtered water.. S.G 1045, I have not yet added the yeast.. I am open to suggestion on how I can salvage this? (I had a taste it could do with more hops)



I think it should be fine, run with it.

You can always dry hop it, or frecnh press some hops etc.


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## Chookers (30/11/11)

I did :icon_cheers: .. hehe


I could'nt leave it long, so I added the yeast US-05.. yesterday. I have been surprisingly successful at keeping the temp at 20 deg using a styrofoam box and 2L bottle of ice..

My fermenter is covered with cling wrap (for the first time). I have always used the fermenter lid and airlock.. I hope I dont regret this.

Im thinking I'll leave it in this set up for 14 days, then do the bulk priming as suggest in earlier posts, and bottle condition for 2 weeks.

It will be ashame if its really good, because it'll probably only make about 15 bottles. 4 weeks for 15 bottles.. it'll be a bigger shame if its a failure.


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## Chookers (30/11/11)

Stux said:


> 1KG of cracked malt needs about 2L of volume to store.
> 
> 1KG of cracked malt displaces 0.7L of liquid, once doughed-in.
> 
> ...






Yeh I like the french press.. its worked well in the past..
thanks for the numbers.. 1kg = 2L of volume.. thats exactly what I was after.. 

I was thinking of getting one of those massive conical strainer, for straining the mash.. their volume is roughly 4.2L, would it be worth my while??


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## Chookers (1/12/11)

I want to make a beer that is like a butterscotch, if someone were to make a beer inspired be Werther's Original..

can anyone recommend a recipe that is like that??

malty and smooth..


Also another bulk priming question, could I mix the priming sugar with hop tea, and then rack on to it then bottle.. and would hopping it like this just before bottling be a problem flavourwise???


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## yum beer (1/12/11)

Chookers said:


> Also another bulk priming question, could I mix the priming sugar with hop tea, and then rack on to it then bottle.. and would hopping it like this just before bottling be a problem flavourwise???




try it and see.


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## felten (1/12/11)

Was it WY1728 that is a diacetyl monster? you could try that if you really want lots of butterscotch, or pediococcus is supposed to throw massive diacetyl.


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## cam89brewer (1/12/11)

Chookers said:


> I want to make a beer that is like a butterscotch, if someone were to make a beer inspired be Werther's Original..
> 
> can anyone recommend a recipe that is like that??
> 
> ...




Well a lot of the time in brewing we go to as much effort as possible to prevent a butterscotch or buttery flavour which is cause by Diacetyl but if you desire that flavour then maybe you could somehow use it as a base or a way to achieve the flavours you are looking for? LOL


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## cam89brewer (1/12/11)

cambrew said:


> Well a lot of the time in brewing we go to as much effort as possible to prevent a butterscotch or buttery flavour which is cause by Diacetyl but if you desire that flavour then maybe you could somehow use it as a base or a way to achieve the flavours you are looking for? LOL



And also add some unfermentable sugar like lactose (if not lactose intolerant) to achieve a slight sweetness after fermentation just like a milk stout?


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## Chookers (1/12/11)

yeh Im a weirdo like that.. I have strange tastes in beer.. Nahhh

Actually trying to come up with something like the Butter Beer in Harry Potter... just out of curiosity..

it would be for cooler months though..

Im growing Stevia in my herb garden.. could it be used in this for residual sweetness, Im not against using Lactose.. just want to know if the Stevia could be useful.


I thought Styrian Goldings, Pacific Hallertau or Goldings may go well in this, judging from their description on the Craft Brewer web site.


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## cam89brewer (1/12/11)

Chookers said:


> yeh Im a weirdo like that.. I have strange tastes in beer.. Nahhh
> 
> Actually trying to come up with something like the Butter Beer in Harry Potter... just out of curiosity..
> 
> ...



Yeh I something like stevia would be perfect IMO always better to use something more natural than extracts the only trouble you may have is balancing the hop bitterness with the sweetness but with a little bit of tweaking im sure it would turn out a nice winter warming drop... :beerbang:


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## Chookers (1/12/11)

I make stevia tea sometimes, it has'nt really got much of a flavour.. very sweet upfront (if you know what I mean) not full like the sweetness from sugar.. and a green herby after taste (that could probably be hidden by hop flavours)


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## Chookers (2/12/11)

felten said:


> Was it WY1728 that is a diacetyl monster? you could try that if you really want lots of butterscotch, or pediococcus is supposed to throw massive diacetyl.




cheers, thanks Felten.


They have something for everyone... Im glad there are options for all tastes. Will keep my eyes open for the WY1728

Although I might not go for the Pediococcus, on Craft Brewer it says:
Wyeast 5733 Pediococcus
'Lactic acid bacteria used in the production of Belgian style beers where additional acidity is desirable. Often found in gueuze and other Belgian style beer. Acid production will increase with storage time. May cause “ropiness” with extended storage time. May produce low levels of diacetyl.'


Question, Whats 'Ropiness'????


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## Flewy (2/12/11)

Chookers said:


> Also another bulk priming question, could I mix the priming sugar with hop tea, and then rack on to it then bottle.. and would hopping it like this just before bottling be a problem flavourwise???



I tried this the other week, ended up with a lot of hop residue going straight into the bottles. Good flavour, but I won't be doing it again, I don't particularly like drinking hop bits.


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## Chookers (2/12/11)

Flewy said:


> I tried this the other week, ended up with a lot of hop residue going straight into the bottles. Good flavour, but I won't be doing it again, I don't particularly like drinking hop bits.




was it the hop bits that were the only issue??


I could add the hop teas 2days before racking onto the priming sugar..


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## Chookers (2/12/11)

on eBay there is a *Conical Strainer 300mm Fine Mesh* could this be used for straining mash, in small batches.. I have done some calculations and figure it would hold 4L volume.

so would it be useful??

Im thinking of buying one, and I saw the same thing in a kitchen shop fro $55.

Oh, there is also the Conical Strainer 300mm Coarse Mesh from the same seller.. 

which would be better for straining grain the Fine or Coarse Mesh????


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## JDW81 (2/12/11)

Chookers said:


> yeh Im a weirdo like that.. I have strange tastes in beer.. Nahhh
> 
> Actually trying to come up with something like the Butter Beer in Harry Potter... just out of curiosity..



Heston Blumenthal (the english chef who is a bit of a mad scientist) made a butter beer on the BBC show Heston's Feasts. If you can track down the episode (it was on sbs so sbs on demand perhaps?) it may point you in the right direction.

edit: spelling.


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## Chookers (2/12/11)

JDW81 said:


> Heston Blumenthal (the english chef who is a bit of a mad scientist) made a butter beer on the BBC show Heston's Feasts. If you can track down the episode (it was on sbs so sbs on demand perhaps?) it may point you in the right direction.
> 
> edit: spelling.




cool.. :icon_cheers: 

will check it out.


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## MaltyHops (2/12/11)

Chookers said:


> on eBay there is a *Conical Strainer 300mm Fine Mesh* could this
> be used for straining mash, in small batches..



I wouldn't recommend it - it could work if it's all you have available to use but
I would not get one specifically for this purpose. I recently steeped a kilo of
caramalt in a tallish/skinnyish pot that I could wrap my 8 inch conical strainer
around, turned the whole thing upside down and it was dribbling liquid out so
slow it was painful. In the end I had to spoon in cupfuls of the mash into the
strainer and roll it around to get anywhere.

Maybe the coarse mesh might work better but I think one problem is the conical
shape itself that causes the mash to compact too much.

T.


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## Chookers (2/12/11)

MaltyHops said:


> I wouldn't recommend it - it could work if it's all you have available to use but
> I would not get one specifically for this purpose. I recently steeped a kilo of
> caramalt in a tallish/skinnyish pot that I could wrap my 8 inch conical strainer
> around, turned the whole thing upside down and it was dribbling liquid out so
> ...




damn.. <_< 

Okay then, what about the spaghetti pot inserts.. they are shaped like a pot only they have lots of holes about 2mm wide.. (Im not clutching at straws. These are just thoughts I've had, Im sure everyone else has had them long before me).

Hey check this out on eBay item 110784622726 . I bet that could be useful..heheh


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## MaltyHops (3/12/11)

Chookers said:


> Okay then, what about the spaghetti pot inserts.. they are shaped like a pot
> only they have lots of holes about 2mm wide.. (Im not clutching at straws.
> These are just thoughts I've had, Im sure everyone else has had them long
> before me).
> Hey check this out on eBay item 110784622726 . I bet that could be useful..heheh


That eBay item looks pretty big and I'd hate to have to try cleaning it - mesh
wire with baked on oil. If you can find a pot insert with holes that are truly no
bigger than 2mm and enough holes so that they're virtually side-by-side it
might work.

What might be easier is to get perforated stainless steel sheet (google for this
- there seem to be heaps of suppliers) normally used for making false bottoms.
Then either cut out a a fat-cross shape, fold into a top less box shape and secure
the sides with small stainless-steel nuts/bolts (bunnings have them). Or if you
have a thin s/s pot you're willing to sacrifice to the beer spirits, cut out panels
from its sides and bottom, then bolt on perforated s/s sheets on the inside.

Acually, I just remembered BribieG's perforated bucket experiments - could do
something similar but instead of drilling, could just grab a long thin nail in pliers,
heat it red hot and melt holes in a suitable food grade bucket (do this under a
rangehood or well ventilated area).

T.


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## Chookers (3/12/11)

MaltyHops said:


> That eBay item looks pretty big and I'd hate to have to try cleaning it - mesh
> wire with baked on oil. If you can find a pot insert with holes that are truly no
> bigger than 2mm and enough holes so that they're virtually side-by-side it
> might work.
> ...




I was joking about that ebay item, way too big for me and too far away.. :lol: 


Sacrificing a pot might be ok.. I got a 15L stock pot its thin and actually has a little crack in it at the top.. so it might be that it could be used.


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## Chookers (4/12/11)

I found this mesh strainer on eBay item 370415142483 .

I know its probably too small, but if I could get a bigger version of this, do you think it would do a good job?


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## MaltyHops (4/12/11)

It looks pretty good - kind of like bling-ed up biab - depends on what
your longer term brewing plans are - it'll cost nearly $40 to get it to
Aus. Reckon it's about 5L and could fit into your thermos and I can't
see why you couldn't do multiple 5L batches to combine into a larger 
batch to boil. Plus you would qualify for the bonus free Scraper


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## Chookers (4/12/11)

MaltyHops said:


> It looks pretty good - kind of like bling-ed up biab - depends on what
> your longer term brewing plans are - it'll cost nearly $40 to get it to
> Aus. Reckon it's about 5L and could fit into your thermos and I can't
> see why you couldn't do multiple 5L batches to combine into a larger
> batch to boil. Plus you would qualify for the bonus free Scraper




Hee hee.. yeh Im actually more interesed in the scraper....(they're really hard to find  )


My long term plans are to always do small batches 10-14Ltr worth.. I got a 15Ltr fermenter and the bigger one that came in the Coopers Homebrewing Kit, but I tend to use the 15Ltr more as its easier for me to handle on my own.. so Im just going to do the small batches from now on.

I have nothing against BIAB Im just looking for a Stainless Steel alternate to the BAG part...


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## Silo Ted (4/12/11)

Chookers said:


> I have nothing against BIAB Im just looking for a Stainless Steel alternate to the BAG part...


Whoa, back that horse up, cowboy. The sort of mesh you would need to replicate a grain bag will not be found at a kitchen supply shop. :huh: 

If you are foregoing the typical recirc/sparge then you dont have a grainbed filter to stop shit from getting into your kettle. And if as a sibgle vessel brew you dont have a bag, well, youre going to have bits of husk and shit all through your wort ! 

I really think you should start out with the bag. Or even better go 3v to get a grasp of whats going on.


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## Silo Ted (4/12/11)

..... or do plan to chuck the grain in a pot, let it mash, then pour out through the strainer into another vessel? I think that would work if the strainer doesnt block. a bigger one would be good so you could let it drip over some time. Still, a bag is piss easier and less mess I would think


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## Chookers (7/12/11)

how easy/hard is it to fit a ball valve to a pot.. I got a 19L pot I was thinking of using and the lid of my 15L pot fits well for a false bottom just need to drill holes in it (how big should they be and how close together).... I would probably still be using it on the stove.

This is all hypothetical at the moment, just seeing what I would need if I went that route.


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## Chookers (14/12/11)

a quick BIAB question.. in regard to sewing the bag using nylon thread.. would frishing line work in this case??? or do I have to buy actual nylon thread???


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## bignath (14/12/11)

Chookers said:


> a quick BIAB question.. in regard to sewing the bag using nylon thread.. would frishing line work in this case??? or do I have to buy actual nylon thread???



I dont BIAB im 3V, so i dont know what thrad you need, but you dont actually need to make a bag. Just cut your voille big enough to reach the bottom of your pot and overhang it by a few inches around the edge. Heaps easy to clean as its just a sheet. I did this when i did one BIAB batch before going to 3V and it worked a treat!


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## [email protected] (14/12/11)

BN is on the money. Its the easiest route and IMHO your better off. No seems to break open and yes very easy to clean.

Just run a quick stitch around the outside so it does not fray, if not just use a lighter back and forth and it will seal up the thread nicely.

While your getting the voile get a piece of elastic big enough to go around the outside of your pot to hold the sheet in place.


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## Silo Ted (14/12/11)

Chookers said:


> a quick BIAB question.. in regard to sewing the bag using nylon thread.. would frishing line work in this case??? or do I have to buy actual nylon thread???



Come on mate, show some initiative for yourself. Youre not building a nuclear weapon, its a bloody bag to chuck grain into.


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## stux (14/12/11)

Chookers said:


> on eBay there is a *Conical Strainer 300mm Fine Mesh* could this be used for straining mash, in small batches.. I have done some calculations and figure it would hold 4L volume.
> 
> so would it be useful??
> 
> ...



Any reason you can't just use a BIAB bag?

Anyway, you want what's called "poly-thread", I think that's what swmbo said she used...

Or just do as others have said... and use a sheet to start with


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## Yob (14/12/11)

Though I 3V now and I didnt really go through a _propper_ BIAB as such, this little kit served me well for partials and spec gran steeping with the added bonus that I could easily sparge the grain (once I got a mill... the 'grinder method gave me *LOADS* of grief) by sitting the smaller pot on some unused fridge shelving (or cake rack).

Ive not used it in a while now but you get the idea.. I used to just use a stocking over the outside of the pot with a bit of elastic to hold it in place... cleaning was a doddle.











Stainless pot in a pot BIAB.... kinda


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## Chookers (14/12/11)

well I've been tossing up between investing in the pieces necessary to make Braid manifold type using my 19L big W pot, and BIAB.. Im not sure which way to jump?

My first AG I did with a very big colander, and as you can imagine my efficiency was not that great.. I want a permanent setup though I will only ever be doing small half batches 11-14L.


I was in Lincraft today and could even find the viole, but Im going again soon.

Im in no hurry and I doubt I will settle on anything until after Xmas.

:angry: hey Silo Ted..don't be mean..

I just dont want to waste my money, so I want to be sure in what I'm going to do


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## MaltyHops (14/12/11)

Chookers said:


> well I've been tossing up between investing in the pieces necessary to make Braid
> manifold type using my 19L big W pot, and BIAB.. Im not sure which way to jump? ...


Could then start out with BIAB and see how you go. A metre of swiss voile
will prob cost around $10 and you could always use the voile to make hop
bags for the boil if you do eventually want to go the braid path. The ball
valve would be useful in either case.


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## Gar (14/12/11)

iamozziyob said:


> Though I 3V now and I didnt really go through a _propper_ BIAB as such, this little kit served me well for partials and spec gran steeping with the added bonus that I could easily sparge the grain (once I got a mill... the 'grinder method gave me *LOADS* of grief) by sitting the smaller pot on some unused fridge shelving (or cake rack).
> 
> Ive not used it in a while now but you get the idea.. I used to just use a stocking over the outside of the pot with a bit of elastic to hold it in place... cleaning was a doddle.
> 
> ...



Don't get your face caught in that, you'll have a "hell" of a job getting it off *boom tish*


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## Rowy (14/12/11)

Silo Ted said:


> Come on mate, show some initiative for yourself. Youre not building a nuclear weapon, its a bloody bag to chuck grain into.




Ted your being a tool to a noob again............play nice


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## Silo Ted (14/12/11)

Chookers said:


> :angry: hey Silo Ted..don't be mean..



Dude, BIAB is dead simple, dont escalate it into something its not. Where are you in Sydney ? If you want to come around over the holiday break, I'll cut a piece of voile up(BribieG styles), we'll do a brew, get 85% extraction efficiency, and you'll go "****, that was nothing to examine to death" and youll see how basic the method really is.


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## Silo Ted (14/12/11)

Rowy said:


> Ted your being a tool to a noob again............play nice



Come on, man. Why support the idea that BIAB is difficult by responding to cross examinations of every nuance ? 

My offer above is genuine by the way.


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## pk.sax (14/12/11)

MaltyHops said:


> Could then start out with BIAB and see how you go. A metre of swiss voile
> will prob cost around $10 and you could always use the voile to make hop
> bags for the boil if you do eventually want to go the braid path. The ball
> valve would be useful in either case.


on the money. I used to use a sheet of cotton voile, felt stronger, safer and cheaper.

Also, Silo sounds like he just saw a naked woman! Take him up  Beewing is so much more fun to do with someone... even if they do fuckall and just comment on shit.


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## kymba (14/12/11)

practicalfool said:


> Beewing is so much more fun to do with someone... even if they do fuckall and just comment on shit.



haha true - it's like when women get together and...talk?

chookers, if you want to try the braid without valves and putting holes n shit in your pot, you can weasel it over a standard copper capillary elbow, so you could jam that elbow into some silicon hose, or onto another bit of copper, clamp that to your pot so you don't disturb the grain bed and siphon it out

i vote that you do both and then tell us how easy it was with the bag


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## Chookers (14/12/11)

Silo Ted said:


> Dude, BIAB is dead simple, dont escalate it into something its not. Where are you in Sydney ? If you want to come around over the holiday break, I'll cut a piece of voile up(BribieG styles), we'll do a brew, get 85% extraction efficiency, and you'll go "****, that was nothing to examine to death" and youll see how basic the method really is.




Silo Ted, thank you for your kind offer.. but I will decline. You are right, yes I am examining it to death.. (and then I will resurrect it and examine it some more.) But I will also do as Maltyhops advises and go the BIAB way and if I then move to the manifold will use the voile for hop bags.. 

Practicalfool, cotton voile?? where'd you get that? I would like to get some.


Cheers guys, thanks for putting up with me and the great advice you keep giving.


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## pk.sax (14/12/11)

Lincraft. It's all they had.


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## Chookers (19/12/11)

That batch of Nelson Sauvin Summer ale, still has not cleared.. I have checked the S.G and it is stable at 1008. But the yeast is still hanging around. How can I make the yeast drop out.

And if I get the yeast out will the flavour improve because currently tastes bloody awful..


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## Spork (19/12/11)

Gelatine (search it on here) and cold (I like -1c). Pref. both, but either / or should help.


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## Chookers (19/12/11)

Spork said:


> Gelatine (search it on here) and cold (I like -1c). Pref. both, but either / or should help.




-1 deg, you mean put it in the freezer??

I could rack onto some gelatine and put in the fridge or freezer.


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## manticle (19/12/11)

Don't put it in the freezer. Put it in the fridge on the coldest setting and leave it for a week.

If you use gelatin, make sure you dissolve it in hot water first.


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## the_new_darren (19/12/11)

Welcome to the obsession

cheers

tnd


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## Chookers (19/12/11)

manticle said:


> Don't put it in the freezer. Put it in the fridge on the coldest setting and leave it for a week.
> 
> If you use gelatin, make sure you dissolve it in hot water first.




okay, I got the McKenzie's Edible Gelatine, I hope thats good enough.. I'll mix it with the hot water then rack on to it. and put it in the fridge as you suggest.

I used US-05 is this a problem yeast?? I will use something else next time.


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## kelbygreen (19/12/11)

thats what I got but never used it. I also got isinglass from CB and used 3 times I didnt see much difference. But you gotto use it on a half moon at 4:30am with a SE blowing and the cat perched on your head to do it right (well so it seems ) bought a filter and dont bother with any of it its quicker to filter then to stuff around with finings


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## manticle (19/12/11)

Chookers said:


> okay, I got the McKenzie's Edible Gelatine, I hope thats good enough.. I'll mix it with the hot water then rack on to it. and put it in the fridge as you suggest.
> 
> I used US-05 is this a problem yeast?? I will use something else next time.




I stopped using post fermentation finings a while ago and now use only cold and time. When I used gelatin finings, I usually used a supermarket version. I have intentions of doig some side by side observations using supermarket gelatin, catering 'leaf' gelatin, HBS gelatin finings, isinglass, cold and just time but have no idea when I'll get around to it.

Loads of people use it anyway.

As for 05 - sometimes it can hang around without encouragement but my experience of it when you brew it coolish and give it time to condition is that it is a good go to neutral yeast. It is the only dry beer yeast I use - all other yeasts I use are liquid.


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## Muscovy_333 (19/12/11)

Chookers said:


> Silo Ted, thank you for your kind offer.. but I will decline. You are right, yes I am examining it to death.. (and then I will resurrect it and examine it some more.) But I will also do as Maltyhops advises and go the BIAB way and if I then move to the manifold will use the voile for hop bags..
> 
> Practicalfool, cotton voile?? where'd you get that? I would like to get some.
> 
> ...



Spotlight do swiss voille as well. (get the plain white, not the coloured stuff)

Cheap as chips, Gods own contribution to HB. Great stuff!


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## kelbygreen (19/12/11)

isnt it polyester voile??? proper swiss voile is cotton but cost 20x the price!! I know 98% recommended poly when I used it but maybe they have expensive taste now


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## bignath (20/12/11)

Chookers said:


> That batch of Nelson Sauvin Summer ale, still has not cleared.. I have checked the S.G and it is stable at 1008. But the yeast is still hanging around. How can I make the yeast drop out.
> 
> And if I get the yeast out will the flavour improve because currently tastes bloody awful..



Chookers, what was the recipe mate?

When you say 'bloody awful'?........


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## Flewy (20/12/11)

Chookers said:


> was it the hop bits that were the only issue??
> 
> 
> I could add the hop teas 2days before racking onto the priming sugar..



No, it wasn't the only issue. Because of the extra residue, there were more nucleation points and it appeared overcarbonated, and gushed everywhere. 2 days before racking should be plenty.



Chookers said:


> I want a permanent setup though I will only ever be doing small half batches 11-14L.



Somebody please remind Chookers of this when he's looking for a 90L stainless kettle one day  

Flewy


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## Chookers (20/12/11)

Big Nath said:


> Chookers, what was the recipe mate?
> 
> When you say 'bloody awful'?........




its the one on the recipe database, Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale.. but I scaled it down.. and boiled it too much I suppose because I ended up with 6.5L instead of 11L I was aiming for.. I cant remember the numbers off the top of my head but I think I posted them at the start of this threat.. I think the O.G of the 6.5L was 1.060 and I added 2L of boiled water and got it to 1.045.. my numbers could be off.. I also made a mix of 2L boiled water and enough LDME to match the S.G, and added that to bring the total to bring it closer to 11L.
I covered with cling wrap and kept it in a styrofoam box with ice bottles to keep temp between 18 & 20 deg, it was two weeks last Tuesday, and I have checked the s.g for three days it is now 1.008 and stable, but with alot of suspended yeast. We tasted the samples each time we tested the s.g and everyone said it tastes kinda like raw dough, yeasty..


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## bignath (20/12/11)

Hmmm not sure exactly what the problem is to pin point it. Its most likely (in my opinion) a combination of all those variables when the brewday didnt quite go to plan. 
Did you pitch the whole yeast pack into your half batch? Would explain extra sediment i 'spose...

NS is an amazing hop (in my top two) but you do need to be careful with it. Ive found the slightest difference n balance throughout the recipe or a change in efficiency can have massive consequences when using it. Its not a forgivingnhop at all. It responds well to a recipe that is completely dialled in for consistent results or else it will kick you in the arse. 
As a said, thats what ive found, and ive used this hop A LOT.


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## Chookers (20/12/11)

Big Nath said:


> Hmmm not sure exactly what the problem is to pin point it. Its most likely (in my opinion) a combination of all those variables when the brewday didnt quite go to plan.
> Did you pitch the whole yeast pack into your half batch? Would explain extra sediment i 'spose...
> 
> NS is an amazing hop (in my top two) but you do need to be careful with it. Ive found the slightest difference n balance throughout the recipe or a change in efficiency can have massive consequences when using it. Its not a forgivingnhop at all. It responds well to a recipe that is completely dialled in for consistent results or else it will kick you in the arse.
> As a said, thats what ive found, and ive used this hop A LOT.




yes I thought I may have issues with NS even before I started so I under hopped, I was aiming for lower bitterness. The bitterness level is okay, there is not much flavour or aroma due to my using only 5g per hop addition and cutting out the last one entirly. but even with my messing the hops around it does not explain the yeasty beasties...I think they are the culprits for the off flavours.


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