# Brewing Lagers - Using A Fridge



## Andrew Coleman (5/11/09)

Something I haven't done much of before! Now i've just bought a fridge so i can use the temperature control, the lowest it will go is 10C!
Will this take a long time to ferment at such a colt temp. and will the final result be better if at 12C, or should i try turning the fridge off from time to time to get the temp around 12C?

And lastly are there any major advantages in maintining a consistant temperature over having a constantly changing temp?

As you can see i'm just not shure about a couple things and i know a lot of people use fridges/cooling devices so send us your advice or any feedback would be appreciated! Cheers, Drew!


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## murrayr (5/11/09)

i recently bought a fridge thermostat from grape and grain online. set the fridge temp as high as you want (up to ambient) solid investment, cost around $130 new


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## murrayr (5/11/09)

oh yes and i've read several books that stress that you don't want the temperature to differ by anymore that a couple of degrees each side of whatever you're after....cant remember why, its late and i'm tired


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## scoundrel (5/11/09)

best thing i ever bought, i even do my ales in the fridge at 20c as well, even if your still on kits your beers will improve alot.


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## Andrew Coleman (5/11/09)

That really does suck as i've just bought a fridge w/ new thermostat for $150
I will end up buying one of those thermostats sometime soon, but for now i'd like to know if i can work still with what i've got?


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## bconnery (5/11/09)

10C is fine for most lager yeasts. The fermentation will generally keep the beer a little above that if that's the lowest your fridge will get. 
I used to use a fridge for lagers with no temp control on it and it generally kept the beer around 10-12C
yes it takes longer but lagers do anyway...

If you want to use the fridge for ales you need to be able to keep the temp up higher, in which case a temp controller of some sort is needed. Or you just turn it off altogether and use frozen water bottles as some do.


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## Jonez (5/11/09)

Sorry I am a bit confused: When you guys say "the lowest the fridge goes is 10C" you actually mean the highest it goes. Right? I am assuming the fridge can't go to 12C which is where you (OP) want to be.


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## RobboMC (5/11/09)

Just buy a 'kambrook' timer for around $20 at the supermarket.

It's all I've got and it works fine, I just adjust the number of segments every couple of days
depending on the outside temp and whether I want the fermenter warmer or cooler.

25 litres of beer has quite a big thermal 'inertia', meaning it is slow to warm and slow to cool,
so the temp doesn't move too quickly that it's uncontrollable.
I also store about 50 bottles in the brew fridge, all that liquid creates a huge thermal buffer.
My current ale has been sitting at either 18, 19 or 20 deg for the last 10 days using this system.

No, it's not as good as a fancy fridgemate thingy, but it's a lot cheaper and works quite well. 

A fridge also takes away the daily rise and fall of temp between day and night and I'm told by others that this is just as important to the final quality as the temperature itself, within a reasonable range.

Also, learn to drive your fridge system by making ales first, and don't sweat over the exact temp but focus on keeping it constant,
and if change is needed make it slowly.
Still brew lagers in winter and ales in summer, even though your fridge allows you to keep things cool there's no point fighting nature entirely.


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## Andrew Coleman (5/11/09)

To Jonez, this is a real cold fridge i mean, as in the temp range is between around -1 and +10, And cheers to RobboMC for what seems to be just the solution im looking for, downthe track will buy a new thermostat but i'll see how i manage with this first, cheers again for everyones help!


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## Jonez (5/11/09)

Drewcifer said:


> To Jonez, this is a real cold fridge i mean, as in the temp range is between around -1 and +10, And cheers to RobboMC for what seems to be just the solution im looking for, downthe track will buy a new thermostat but i'll see how i manage with this first, cheers again for everyones help!




I see. Mine goes from +4C to +10C and the freezer is always under -2C. I just wanted to clarify: I thought you have said the lowest your fridge went was +10C (but you ment the the "warmest" it goes)

:icon_offtopic: On the other hand, I have a fridge/freezer with independent thermostats. I recently acquired a fridgemate which I can use in either the freezer or fridge. I have realised when I set the fridgemate in the freezer to crash chill at +2C, the temp in the fridge is around +12C to +16C. This would be ideal if I want to crash chill a beer and brew another but I doubt the ratio will hold the same in warmer days....

:icon_offtopic: I haven't gone restudying Newton's law of cooling but common sense tell me it doesn't matter where I put the internal thermostat of the fridge as this will work dictated by the fridgemate(although set in the freezer)


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## Josh (5/11/09)

I can vouch for the timer. Have never bothered getting anything else as I know my fridge and what kinda hours it needs to be on. Might take a few ales and a few lagers to dial in your specs.


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## henderjo (5/11/09)

Hi Drew,

in my limited experience a fridge really does make a difference in the quality of beer you produce, due to the stable and yeast matched temp (if that makes sense). For my money I'd rather pay the extra now and get the controller... after all if you stuff a couple of brews trying to dial in your $10 timer - then you may as well have just bought it up front anyway. If I'm not mistaken 10*c would be great for lagers... can you just drink lager while you save your pennies? Just my 2c.

John.


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## Fester (5/11/09)

What I normally do is turn up temp of fridge as high (warmest) as it'll go, then I put in my fermenter with a "fish tank" heater to maintain temp at 20C. Also works for lagers too at 10-12C.

Not very elegant, but it works and I can brew even in the hottest of summers.


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## bluejed (5/11/09)

murrayr said:


> i recently bought a fridge thermostat from grape and grain online. set the fridge temp as high as you want (up to ambient) solid investment, cost around $130 new



:icon_offtopic: I have sourced a thermostat off Ebay, the thermostat requires some minor electrical work to connect (easy line diagram provided) allows to heat and cool. I connected 2 standard outlets one for the fridge and the other connected to a heating pad in the fridge. allows temp control diferential 1 - 5 deg and a controled temp 40 - 5 deg

I have located the temperature probe around the centre of the brew as there will be some stratification within the fridge

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-Temperature...n%3D5%26ps%3D63


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## Andrew Coleman (6/11/09)

*Broad Range Temperature Controller* This temperature controller is a top of the line unit that can be used for almost anything. Use it to heat or cool. Use it to control a fridge, freezer, heating pad or heating belt so you can completely control your fermentation temperature.
*Includes*
Cable & stainless steel probe
Wiring instructions

*Specifications*
Temperature Range: -45? to 99?
Accuracy: +/- 1?
Dimension: 77(Length) 35(Width) 60(Depth)mm
Mounting hole dimension: 71(Length) 29(Width)mm
Temperature of the operating environment:-10? - 60?
Relative Humidity: 20%~90% (Non-condensing)
Relay Output Capacity: 10A / 250VAC

From- www.beerbelly.com.au/measuring.html

This is what I have decided on after all that procrastination! hehe oh well atleast the whole fridge set up only costing me 200 and i should be absolutely set from here on !!!! God i've been patient lately, havent done a brew for about a month and a half, massive withdrawals!

Has anyone had much experience with ease of use with such a device as the one above, and if so if they can share their knowledge with me, Cheers frm Drew!


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## henderjo (6/11/09)

Are you talking ease of set up or use?

Mine is almost identical... set the temp and forget it - unless you're using a different yeast this time. I place my temp probe so that it lies against the side of the fermenter. It may be water proof, but I'm not gong to test that. You can work it so as to be spot on to the required fermenting temp. I usually set at 1*c below what the yeast recommends - hence the heat produced by the yeast will be kept in check by the temp in the fridge.

As for set up... you can hard wire if you want. However I bought a cheap 2m ext lead and cut it in half [or what suits] - then wired the temp control into both ends of the cut lead. This lets me just unplug the fridge power from the temp control when finished fermenting and plug it directly into the wall socket [no resetting temps] and just like that, I'm lagering :icon_cheers: [or is that crash chilling] any way you get the idea I'm sure.


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## Fester (6/11/09)

Guys, something I'm not sure about with these controllers. The 240v output (cool/refrigerate) from the controller gets connected to the power lead on the fridge? Or to the temp controller inside the fridge?

If the former what setting do you use for the thermostat inside the fridge? Warmest I would imagine?

Thanks.


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## Galamus (6/11/09)

If you wire a socket into the 240V out then connect the fridge up normally u can interchange really easily, I have an atc800+; bought a 2m extension cord cut in in half and used one half for power in one half to make a socket for the cooler. 

As for the thermostat setting its not important as long as it is set at a temperature below what ur trying to cool too, or else ur thermostat will be sending an on signal to a fridge that is off.....hope that makes sence

Edit: just realised henderjo said more or less the same thing above...


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## Andrew Coleman (6/11/09)

have just bought the *Broad Range Temperature Controller and I can honestly say i wouldn't have a clue on how to install the thing based on the paper i got with it, could anyone possibly help me out with a step by step, or you tube video or something? cheers!*


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## henderjo (6/11/09)

Drewcifer said:


> have just bought the *Broad Range Temperature Controller and I can honestly say i wouldn't have a clue on how to install the thing based on the paper i got with it, could anyone possibly help me out with a step by step, or you tube video or something? cheers!*



Don't have my diagram any more - each one would be different - can you post a pic of your wiring diagram? Have you bought an extension lead?


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## Andrew Coleman (6/11/09)

henderjo said:


> Don't have my diagram any more - each one would be different - can you post a pic of your wiring diagram? Have you bought an extension lead?



I have a lead, and this is the diagram i got man


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## henderjo (6/11/09)

Drewcifer said:


> I have a lead, and this is the diagram i got man



Hmmm - they go all out with info don't they. I'm guessing that's all the directions given?

Disclaimer! I'm not a sparky - never, not even a bit!... you might want to ask for another to check?

9 and 10 are for your temp probe - easy.

your 'active' from your male plug goes in 1
your 'active from your female plug goes in 2
your negative from your male plug goes in 11
your negative from your female plug goes in 12

is there an inline fuse? if one came with the box it should go into 4 + 5 [ it may be hard wired inside and not viewable]

it's a good idea to buy a small box [see dick smith] to mount your purchase in.

Again - I'd get a second opinion - one wrong wire and there goes your dough  My diagram was little easier to work out!

Hendo


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## porky (6/11/09)

henderjo said:


> Hmmm - they go all out with info don't they. I'm guessing that's all the directions given?
> 
> Disclaimer! I'm not a sparky - never, not even a bit!... you might want to ask for another to check?
> 
> ...



Wow, here is a case of the blind leading the blind.
This reply is wrong, as is the wiring diagram...
Get someone to do it for you that has a clue.


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## Fester (7/11/09)

Drewcifer, look at this thread. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...mp;#entry367165.

The photo that "Crunched" posts is how you should be wiring yours. The wiring diagram you have is correct, but confusing.

1 & 11=Active

2=Switched Active

12=Neutral

Edit, noticed your diagram doesn't show an "earth" connection, it would be a good idea to earth the box somehow.


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## porky (7/11/09)

I'm sorry, but that diagram shows your switched active going to the neutral.

Your linked diagram is correct, and should be easy to follow.


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## Fester (7/11/09)

That is correct Budwiser, the switched active goes to neutral via the "load" (fridge) first to complete the circuit.


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## porky (7/11/09)

Oh yea, I see it now....not very clear, you are right.
Cheers,
Bud


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## Jonez (7/11/09)

budwiser said:


> Wow, here is a case of the blind leading the blind.
> This reply is wrong, as is the wiring diagram...
> Get someone to do it for you that has a clue.



I think the diagram is ok. my fridgemate is conected that way and works but the conections on top of its case are wrong I reckon.


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## Andrew Coleman (12/12/09)

Ohk, well i still have not connected the unit until today when my lager has finished ready to bottle and i have decided i need to wire it up this weekend! help is needed and the best thing i could get would be a diagram like below relevant to the diagram i have already posted, cheers


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## Andrew Coleman (12/12/09)

Bump, well i have connected the wires but i don'e know what to do with the earth wires (green/yellow 1s)!


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## Rodolphe01 (12/12/09)

in the diagram you posted it shows it connected to GND, GND = earth.


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## Fester (12/12/09)

Drew, you should have 2 earth wires. Follow Rudi's instruction.


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