# Well Here It Is. The New Brewery



## Justin (31/10/05)

Good morning guys.

Sorry this is a long post.

Well as promised several weeks back now, I would post the pictures of my new single tier brewery once it was made. It's taken a few weeks of messing around and tinkering with the smaller bits and pieces due to time restraints, but I finally got it to a stage that I could give it a test brew on the weekend. There are a few little bits and pieces that I have to finish off to complete the system and one or two little modifications that have arisen since actually using the system but for the most part I am pretty damn happy with how it's come out and how it functions. :super:

I was in two minds over weather to go for a two tier and gravity feed from the tun into the kettle, or go for a single tier and pump between all vessels. I was hoping to be able to gravity feed into my fermenter, so once assembled the two tier was still going to have a highish mash tun-high enough to make mashing in a PITA. I DID NOT want to stand on anything to mash in or be awkward while mashing in. After looking at AndrewQLD's single tier brewery and many on the net-his system already had many of the features I was hoping to have in my brewery and I like the clean lines of a one level brewery so I went with the single tier and am very happy I did so. Mashing in is so easy and you can easily monitor all vessels and it just makes it all work so well having them low down. No lifting vessels high at all, easy on, easy off. Scoop the mash out with a jug straight into a bucket for compost disposal. It's great.

I chose to brew a hefeweizen on the weekend, 1. because I was hoping to do one soon and 2. one of my mates gave me a yeast cake of 3638 Bavarian Wheat yeast. I wasn't sure about trialing the brew with a wheat beer, seeing as I was using a new manifold and also learning how to sparge and recirculate with my pump without causing a stuck sparge but I went forward anyway. I was also going to have my first proper go at batch sparging.

I had a late start to the day, later than I normally start because I figured it was going to be an all day affair anyway so I didn't have to start early. Plus I figured there would be a few hiccups so the entire Saturday was donated to brewing. Which was a nice change I can tell you.

Here's the full set up, I've just mashed in and the HLT is heating up again. 


The frame was made of 50mm (3mm thick) angle iron from two bed base frames. Anyone wanting to build a frame and that can weld or bolt it together should consider getting these. They are a vey cheap source of steel and there are a heap of them around, everyone has some lying around and tip/recycle shops can't give em away. I was going to build my stand out of 20mm RHS but this worked out much cheaper and was better in the end anyway. The bed frame steel is light and strong. I can pick my frame up above my head on my own to lift onto roof rack when we go on the road and it will easily hold three full vessels and more without worry-it's strong stuff, no worries here.

Here's the bracket I made to mount my pump. I just made it out of a piece of tin plate, drilled the holes, painted it and mounted it. It works well and allows me to easily put the pump on and take it off for cleaning. I'm going to move the pump about half a foot to the right though to get it out of the drip path of the valves on the mash tun. I mounted my pump, but then ended up putting the valves on the mash tun off centre (that has to do with the sun dial Tel Tru  ) which wasn't in the initial plan, but it's no big issue to change it slightly.




What I haven't done at this stage is mounted my third tel tru in the kettle. Keen eyes can pick the spot marked out. I also haven't mounted my kettle return valve and whirlpool attachment yet (same set up as on the mash tun-the top valve). This is mainly because I wanted to test the idea before drilling the holes and mounting the fittings. The idea is to still use my immersion chiller, but instead of stirring it constantly while chilling I'll just put the pump into whirlpool mode and draw hot wort from the bottom and pump into a whirlpool at the top to keep the hot wort moving over the coils. It worked well even with the less than ideal return maniflod (I'll explain later) so I think I'll go ahead and make the attachment.

I also have a control box that I'm in the process of wiring up that is not on the system yet. It will go under the HLT, mounted to the frame. This will have switches for the HLT elements, the pump, and a switch and outlet for my hand held immersion element (what a great tool they are). I'm hoping to house a digital theremostat (most likely a PID) here too for HLT control.


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## Justin (31/10/05)

Here is my new mash tun manifold. It is basically a bigger version of what I have previously used so I wasn't too worried about it not working well. It's made of stainless termite mesh and obviously a couple of T's. The compression fitting can be hand tightened and with the help of a wrap of teflon tap, seal the pick up tube well making remove easy. It drew wort from the tun very well and I was actually able to recirculate and pump to the kettle a quite a fast rate, faster than I though I would be able to.
pic removed

The outside of the mash tun, with the Tel tru and the recirculation return valve up the top. I wanted this valve up the top so I could see the flow rate of the pump and adjust the speed while watching-without the need to bend down to the pump-make a blind adjustment and then peer back into the tun to see how I went. This is a nice addition and give nice control.

pic removed


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## warrenlw63 (31/10/05)

Justin.

Totally sweet you lucky so and so.  :beerbang: :beerbang: 

Warren -


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## Justin (31/10/05)

This is the HLT, with a nice sight gauge. I used a strip of aluminium to mark the scale on. It's nice, especially for calculating batch sparge additions. I will most likely add one to the mash tun as well. I've got one here ready to go. All vessels being the same means my current dip tube stick also works for all vessels so was handy on the weekend to work out dough in water volume calculations.

pic removed

Here is the make shift whirlpool set up. I just used the mash tun return valves for this weekends brew and ran a hose over to the kettle. I had a bit of copper pipe shaped in a gentle curve to induce the whirlpool and it worked quite well but the actual return manifold will have a sharper bend, probably at 90 degree's as the one I was using on the weekend angled down to the bottom too much and stirred up the settling a bit. The bit of copper I used was never designed for this but was just used for proof of concept. I'm happy with how it went though.

pic removed


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## Darren (31/10/05)

Looks nice. Love the guages. Easy to read. On wheels too! How did the beer turn out efficiency etc?
cheers
Darren


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## Gough (31/10/05)

Beautiful work there Justin. Love the gauge on the sight glass especially. A really nice touch. Top darts!

Shawn.


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## Justin (31/10/05)

Here's another angle of the whirlpool recirculation while I was chilling.

pic removed

As a summary of batch sparging. I love it. It was so quick and very easy to do. I had a calculated 11L of wort recovery from the grain bed to which I added 4L of sparge water to before the first run off and then added another 15L for the second run off. I set the efficiency in promash to a conservative 73% for my first batch and lo and behold I collected exactly 30L at my target OG of 1046 preboil. Nice one. 

I think my brew days are going to be very fast indeed in the future. This one really only took me a bit over 4 hours not counting the initial setting up and stuffing round before I started. With preheated HLT water it's going to be a very slick brewing method and very stress free. With fly sparging I was always running back and forth from the brewery to kitchen to cool hydro samples.


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## roach (31/10/05)

Looks the goods Justin. Nice tip on using bed frames, and so might go with the patented 'Justin frame' concept.


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## Justin (31/10/05)

The beer turned out great and it's happily bubbling away. I'm trying to keep the temp down on this yeast a little so the flavours of this yeast don't get too carried away.

I tried this beer with a mix of wheat and Vienna. Intially tastes seem very good indeed, will be interesting to see how it tastes once a lot of the sugars have fermented out.


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## Ross (31/10/05)

Justin,

Fantastic setup mate - a credit to you :beer: 

cheers Ross


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## AndrewQLD (31/10/05)

Justin, that is one great piece of kit :beer: . It looks great, I like the bed frame idea too. Good idea for the mounting bracket on the pump as well. how did you polish up the kegs?

cheers
Andrew


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## mongo (31/10/05)

Justin, 
That setup looks absolutely fantastic, and similar to the way that I will want to ultimately go. Are there any details you have handy re: suppliers etc...? In particular, I am keen to find out more about your disconnects and hoses. It all looks very robust and clean. 
Well, I had better get back to feeling jealous!
Cheers,
Steve.


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## delboy (31/10/05)

justin that is the most simple idea i have seen to date in a brew set up ,neet tidy easy to work around buy the looks of things and mobile well mate yo should patent that one and do up a set of plans and offer them for sale .
as for the commercial ones well i think you have really thought of this from a real homebrewer point of veiw .not from a commercial aspect 
i am sure most would agree.

hats off to the "justin brewframe"

delboy


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## Pumpy (31/10/05)

I thought you was up to something, lookd great nice work Justin 

Pumpy


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## Justin (31/10/05)

Can you seen any ideas from your brewery Andrew . Thanks for your help with my questions about your system too. I have to say I'm pretty happy with those brass quick disconnects. No leaks whatsoever at this stage and no real issues with grabbing hold of them while hot. Happy.

My kegs, well one was already pretty shiny (HLT) and the kettle is only half polished at this stage. I'll finish it up soon, thought I better get the system going first before making it too pretty. But I just sanded them with sand paper. I've only got to the first grade of paper so far which is about 300 grit or so of the black wet and dry. I've got sheets going out to 1200 grit that I'll get to. You'd be surprised how quick they come up.

The mash tun has a bead blasted matt finish on it which is quite nice but I might sand that one too to match. This depends of if and when I insulate the tun. Don't want to spend the time polishing if I'm going to cover it up with insulation. I think I will insulate, heat loss is pretty bad but I had a handle held element to keep bumping temps back up with, plus I step mashed this one just because I could. I only started polishing them when I was bored but I will finish it up soon. 

I might make a separate heat exhanger HERMS vessel to go underneath because it would be quite easy and simple to do, so maybe? I wasn't going to HERM it but it's basically there. Wouldn't be much messing around to do. 

Cheers, Justin


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## browndog (31/10/05)

Congratulations Justin, that is a great looking setup you have there, I am in the process of putting together a system thanks to Ross demo day a while back. I am very interested in your sight glass as I have been trying to figure out how to make one myself, would you mind giving me some details on how you accomplished it. Also, for a mash tun I was planning on putting a stainless steel liner inside a keg and filling the gap (about 1 inch) with fibreglass batts for insulation, this would result in a volume of about 25 litres is this OK ?


cheers


Browndog


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## Justin (31/10/05)

Hi Mongo.

The brass disconnects were recommended to be by AndrewQLD so I can't take the credit, but I think Warren and a few others use them as well. I grabbed mine from bunnings (females ~$6, males ~$3) and got the females with more of a barbed type of fitting on them-as opposed to what I call the normal plastic type hose fittings. Don't know how else to describe that :unsure: If you see the two side by side you'll know what I mean. At this early stage they worked really well. You need a 3/4" to 1/2" (~$2-3) adapter to get them to mate with 1/2" ball valves. 

The hose is thick walled 1/2" silicone from more beer, and Grain and Grape sell it too. It's $12.50 a meter but it's great stuff and it doesn't collapse or kink easily when hot-it never kinked at all on brew day even with boiling wort going through it. Super stuff, well worth the price. I used 2m to plumb the brewery but I have another 2m piece for general duties like racking etc.

Thanks for the nice comments guys, its appreciated. It's taken me a little bit of time and a good wad of money to get to this point. It's evolved from the three tier which served me well but I really needed the compactness of this brewery in my new place. 

As far as price goes I stopped caring a little while back but it wasn't too bad. I figured this is going to last for years and years so when I break it down over the time I'll use it for I realised I have more expensive hobbies . I try to scrounge what comes available though, browse ebay always and when I had to I've just bought what I needed.

Fittings are dear and add up real quick, if your on a budget think real hard about them. I got a mix of stainless and brass fittings-I mainly grabbed stainless when the price difference between the brass option and stainless option was minimal-but sometimes the difference between brass and stainless fittings is double. Barbs are a good example.

Hope it helps. It's been good fun. I love the building side of things but I'm really looking forward to the next few batch of beer I'm brewing over the next two months. Summer here we come.

Cheers, Justin


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## warrenlw63 (31/10/05)

Justin.

The bed frame is a good touch. I paid about $25 for a 2.4m length from Bunnings for my burner cradle. We had a spare one in the spare room. However SWMBO wouldn't let me cut it up. <_< 

Look at it this way. If you wind up in too much trouble from SWMBO for excessive brewing you can always sleep on your frame. :lol:  

Warren -


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## Justin (31/10/05)

Hi Browndog,

My slightglass uses a push in fitting that I got from a hose and fitting place. I got the idea from Sosmans site here : http://www.metrak.com/wiki/homebrew/moin.c...cc4f46b76438c84

I used a Legris fitting but mine wasn't stainless, ti was around $10. They are however rated to 85C of so. I grabbed some polycrbonate tubing to fit, which I think was 3/8" (but the metric equivalent probably 9 or 10mm OD, I forget now) and fitted them together. I don't knwo how they seal but they do, and very well as long as you seat the tube right down in the fitting. Then I just used a suitable eye bolt to hold the top.

Here's a pic of it along, sorry it's a bit far away. I was going to sell these as ready to go sight glasses on ebay for a while.  




Here's a link to the same ones: http://www.legris.com/legris_com/ProductDi...1&sf=01&ty=3199


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## Justin (31/10/05)

Love it Warren :lol: 

It may yet come to that


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## browndog (31/10/05)

Justin,
Where might one pick up polycarbonate tubing ?

cheers

Browndog


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## Justin (31/10/05)

Any good plastics place will have it. Look under "Plastics-Wholeslrs and Mfr's" in the Yellow pages or the several Plastics heading before the one mentioned. Give them a call and ask for polycarbonate tube. Most of the big adds under there have polycarbonate listed in the ad. It's about $6 p/m I think if I remember right. Pretty common stuff.

You could use acrylic. My first one worked for a while but I boil in my HLT on occasion and it clouded and later cracked at the water level. By polycarbonate, clear, strong and good to about 135C.

Cheers, JD


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## vlbaby (31/10/05)

fantastic work justin! 
I especially like the whirlpool setup you have going. I think i'll be keen to try something similar in my own rig, if you dont mind me being a copy cat.  

vlbaby.


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## Justin (31/10/05)

No worries vlbaby, we're all copy cats really. Unfortunately, nothing on my system is really that unique and has been scrounged/plagerised off here or many other homebrewery websites and forums. Just when you think you have come up with a unique idea, someone else has already done it . 

Ah doesn't matter anyway, take what you can, tweak it to your own situation and use it. No point in making the same mistake as someone else if they have already tested the idea. Half the fun of homebrewing I think, helping others out.

Yeah, I think I like the whirlpooling idea. Looking forward to employing a manifold specifically designed for the purpose, should improve it even more. The cooling side of it worked really well. I chilled in about 20mins to 18C without stirring the chiller once-which you really have to do if you want your immersion chiller to be efficient. Once properly plumbed in I'll be able to chill without removing the lid.

The actual whirlpooling of the trub to form a cone I hope will work better. I removed the chiller at 18C and continued to whirlpool with the pump. While I was getting a whirlpooling action I think my manifold was directing the flow to the bottom and disrupting the cone of trub so that's why I'd like to try it with a 90 degree bend pumping wort parallel to the sides of the kettle.

I'll report back next time I brew and have it properly set up.

Cheers mate.


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## joecast (31/10/05)

very nice justin. you really have been busy!! glad to hear it all worked out ok.
joe


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## Tseay (31/10/05)

Excellent work Justin- You've saved us all a lot of design work. Now its off to the welding course for me !  

T


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## PeterS (31/10/05)

Nice work Justin. It appears that we were both working on a similar set-up at the same time and borrowed some ideas from the same source. I too borrowed AndrewQ design but ended up with a HERMS system that I pinched from Batz. I found it difficult to fly sparge on a single tier and ended up raising my MLT to facilitate gravity feed from MLT to Kettle. I am going to try Batch sparging next as I like the concept of a single tier set-up that eliviated climbing up steps or what not. 

With my first test run the other day, I must say how nice and clear the wort appeared after a bit of recirc in the HERMS. It beats worrying about temp variations as well as I just set my recently bulk puchased temp controller in the HLT to the desired temp and wathed the resultant clear wort flowing through. 

Just as a suggestion re polycarbonate tubing. I bought an extra lenght and cut it up to about 6" pieces. I than inserted these pieces in the connecting tubes somewhear near the ball valves. This way you can see your throughput clearly and observe if there is any air in the system. 

I also use Brass quick disconnects, however I am a bit concerned as these connectors are designed for a higher pressure water flow. Whilst it appears to work OK with no leaks, there might be some air let in the system which is a bit of a worry. We will see how it goes as I know a lot of others are using it also with no apparent problems apart from the fact that it gets a bit hot to handle sometimes.

The only issue that I had with my first test run was that my CCFWC got blocked very quickly. This is also another new addition to my system and I just had to adjust to using it. I use a braid pick up in my kettle that let too much trub through from hop pellets. Since my first run, I purchased an inline filter that I hope will take care of this.

It never ends Jason does it?. My next project before Christmas is a kegging setup. Good luck with your future endeavours.

Cheers. :beer: 
PeterS....


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## mongo (31/10/05)

Thanks for the info Justin. I am onto it. 
Your set up really is great.


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## Ross (31/10/05)

PeterS said:


> Nice work Justin. It appears that we were both working on a similar set-up at the same time and borrowed some ideas from the same source. I too borrowed AndrewQ design but ended up with a HERMS system that I pinched from Batz. I found it difficult to fly sparge on a single tier and ended up raising my MLT to facilitate gravity feed from MLT to Kettle. I am going to try Batch sparging next as I like the concept of a single tier set-up that eliviated climbing up steps or what not.
> 
> With my first test run the other day, I must say how nice and clear the wort appeared after a bit of recirc in the HERMS. It beats worrying about temp variations as well as I just set my recently bulk puchased temp controller in the HLT to the desired temp and wathed the resultant clear wort flowing through.
> 
> ...



Peter,

time you borrowed a camera & posted a few pics... Otherwise, get the invites happening & we'll take 'em for you ;-) hint, hint ...


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## Jase (11/11/05)

G'day Justin,

Great looking setup.

With birthday and christmas around the corner, I've decided to mention that brewing gear would be a great present.

I like the idea of the disconnects. Any chance of getting a close up pic of the disconnects and valves connected together?

Cheers,
Jase


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## Justin (12/11/05)

I'll try. Will have to borrow the camera again. Will try to do it by early next week if you like. I'm not at home at the moment.

Cheers. Justin


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## Jase (12/11/05)

Justin said:


> I'll try. Will have to borrow the camera again. Will try to do it by early next week if you like. I'm not at home at the moment.
> 
> Cheers. Justin
> [post="90035"][/post]​




That's would be great. Thanks mate.

Cheers,
Jase


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## Batz (12/11/05)

Ross said:


> PeterS said:
> 
> 
> > Nice work Justin. It appears that we were both working on a similar set-up at the same time and borrowed some ideas from the same source. I too borrowed AndrewQ design but ended up with a HERMS system that I pinched from Batz. I found it difficult to fly sparge on a single tier and ended up raising my MLT to facilitate gravity feed from MLT to Kettle. I am going to try Batch sparging next as I like the concept of a single tier set-up that eliviated climbing up steps or what not.
> ...




hint. hint ...

Batz


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## PeterS (5/12/05)

Following an earlier comment by me that I have no camera to take a picture of my brewery, AndrewQ and Batz stopped over to Ross's place to have a look and see.
No more excuses now as they took some photos.

Like justin, I started off being a monkey see monkey do and took particular notice and seeked advice from Batz and AndrewQ as to how should I set up my Brewery . I started a system that was a single tier than modified it as a two tier to facilitate gravity feed from MLT to Kettle and finished up with a HERMS system. It is not quite finished yet, thinking of adding a windscreen wiper motor as a stirer and as is the norm it is forever and ongoing project. I used to call my Brewery Desert Dusk but decided to change it to Oasis Brewery as it is an Oasis amongst a lot of junk and I look forward to spending some time there every day. I am glad that the picture does not show the rest of of layout underneat the house next to my car.


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## AndrewQLD (5/12/05)

And a very nice system it is too Peter, we had a sample of a couple of beers, the standard house beer was a pearl, very easy to drink and the Pilsner was superb. You've done a great job Peter.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ross (5/12/05)

WOW!!

You kept that gem a secret - looks fantastic... When's open day :chug: 

cheers Ross...


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## Batz (5/12/05)

Yes great brewery you have there

And the lawnmower beer was very nice , I wouldn't mine seeing that recipe....please?  

Batz


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## KoNG (5/12/05)

Preeetttyyyy...!!!
when i grow up i want abrewery just like yours....


ps. time to change the signature to reflect the new 'oasis brewery'


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## warrenlw63 (5/12/05)

Peter.

That's one classy rig.  

Warren -


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## johnno (5/12/05)

Very nice Peter.

Also given me a good idea with the way the pump is set up.

johnno


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## hockadays (5/12/05)

Hi peter,

Nice looking setup, How do you find the brass quick disconnects, I was thinking of using them myself..?

Matt


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## PeterS (5/12/05)

Ross said:


> WOW!!
> 
> You kept that gem a secret - looks fantastic... When's open day :chug:
> 
> ...


 To you Ross, it is an open day everyday. When you go shopping to say Capalaba, why don't you popp in for a refreshment. You will be welcome any time.

Cheers,
PeterS.... :beer:


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## PeterS (5/12/05)

johnno said:


> Very nice Peter.
> 
> Also given me a good idea with the way the pump is set up.
> 
> ...



Johnno, the pump set-up that you see is only temporary as I managed to break off the outflow threads. I believe it is more efficient if the pumps inlet and outlet are verticle rather than horizontal. I will be incorporating an air vent in the inlet and outlet side (using ball valves) in my new design.

Cheers,
PeterS.... :beer:


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## PeterS (5/12/05)

hockadays said:


> Hi peter,
> 
> Nice looking setup, How do you find the brass quick disconnects, I was thinking of using them myself..?
> 
> ...



Matt. I have no issues with Brass disconnects although they tend to get a bit warm if you want to change hoses in a hurry (use gloves). However, I find that I don't really have to change any connections immediately and it will cool down quick enough by its own. Having said that, if I had the finance, I would have chosen foodgrade plastic disconnects.

Cheersd,
PeterS....


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## PeterS (5/12/05)

Batz said:


> Yes great brewery you have there
> 
> And the lawnmower beer was very nice , I wouldn't mine seeing that recipe....please?
> 
> ...



Batz, I have not forgotten you. Thanks for the photos as well. As far as the recipe is concerned, I will have to dig it out and will pm it to you later today as SWMBO is waiting to go shopping.

Cheers,
PeterS.... :beer:


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## Jye (5/12/05)

PeterS

Could you post the recipe here


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## Hawko777 (5/12/05)

Batz said:


> Yes great brewery you have there
> 
> And the lawnmower beer was very nice , I wouldn't mine seeing that recipe....please?
> 
> ...




Hey Pete,

Nice job on the brewery cobber. :beerbang: I would like to know a bit about your Temp controller, element size and where you purchased the controller. I' checking out new ones at the moment.
Cheers
Hawko


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## Justin (5/12/05)

Looks to me to be a Dixell digital temp controller, like those recently purchased through Dreamboat. Just a simple on/off digital temp controller with a 20A(??) relay. Nice simple temp control that can have up to a 2400W(10A) element directly wired across the thermostats relay.

Pretty simple wiring.

Cheers, Justin


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## PeterS (5/12/05)

Hawko777 said:


> Batz said:
> 
> 
> > Yes great brewery you have there
> ...



Not a problem Hawko. See Justins's reply in post #48. Well explained. I got mine in the bulk buy. Works very well.

Cheers,
PeterS.... :beer:


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## Ross (5/12/05)

PeterS said:


> Ross said:
> 
> 
> > WOW!!
> ...



Great Pete - I look forward to it :chug: ... Can you pm me your contact number/address?

Cheers Ross


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## PeterS (5/12/05)

Jye said:


> PeterS
> 
> Could you post the recipe here
> [post="95569"][/post]​



This is not really the right place to post it, however as a couple of you asked for it, I hope the rest of you don't mind here it is:.

AG27 - Shane's Pale Ale 
Brew Type: All Grain Date: 14/11/05 
Style: American Pale Ale Brewer: Peter Shane 
Batch Size: 23.00 L Assistant Brewer: 
Boil Volume: 32.89 L Boil Time: 60 min 
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.0 % Equipment: Shane's 50L Stainless 
Actual Efficiency: 73.1 % 
Taste Rating (50 possible points): 35.0

Ingredients Amount Item Type % or IBU 
4.16 kg Pale Malt, Traditional Ale (Joe White) (4.9 EBC) Grain 90.4 % 
0.35 kg Carapils (Hoepfner) (3.9 EBC) Grain 7.5 % 
0.09 kg Wheat Malt (Powells) (2.5 EBC) Grain 1.9 % 
0.01 kg Crystal Malt - 60L (Thomas Fawcett) (118.2 EBC) Grain 0.2 % 
28.00 gm Cluster [7.00%] (60 min) Hops 25.5 IBU 
15.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (20 min) Hops 3.6 IBU 
10.00 gm Cascade [5.50%] (5 min) Hops 1.2 IBU 
0.50 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc 
1 Pkgs American Ale - US56 (DCL Yeast #US-56) Yeast-Ale 

Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.047 SG (1.045-1.056 SG) Measured Original Gravity: 1.046 SG 
Estimated Final Gravity: 1.014 SG (1.010-1.015 SG) Measured Final Gravity: 1.016 SG 
Estimated Color: 7.9 EBC (7.9-21.7 EBC) Color [Color] 
Bitterness: 30.3 IBU (20.0-40.0 IBU) Alpha Acid Units: 1.6 AAU 
Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 4.4 % (4.5-5.7 %) Actual Alcohol by Volume: 3.9 % 
Actual Calories: 435 cal/l 


Mash Profile Name: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Mash Tun Weight: 13.00 kg 
Mash Grain Weight: 4.60 kg Mash PH: 5.4 PH 
Grain Temperature: 22.2 C Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C 
Sparge Water: 27.49 L Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE 

Name Description Step Temp Step Time 
Mash In Add 12.01 L of water at 76.9 C 67.8 C 60 min 


Mash Notes
Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).
Carbonation and Storage Carbonation Type: Kegged (Forced CO2) Carbonation Volumes: 2.6 (2.3-2.8 vols) 
Estimated Pressure: 89.1 KPA Kegging Temperature: 4.0 C 
Pressure Used: Age for: 4.0 Weeks 
Storage Temperature: 4.0 C 


Notes
Racked to secondary 23 Nov. Kegged 30 Nov


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