# Fermenting in a Fermentasaurus



## NzBrewerMatt (27/3/18)

Hi Home Brewers!

Just finished brewing an all grain batch last night which I have transferred into the Fermentasaurus which I am using for the first time. I'm definitely excited to start using the Fermentasaurus as it looks to be a great piece of kit and it was extremely cheap for a plastic conical! 

One question I do have about the Fermentasaurus is how do you take gravity hydrometer readings from it?
My wort is currently fermenting (its only day 1) so after a few days I will of course be taking a gravity reading. I can attach the little spiggot to the bottom of the fermentasaurus however to do that, I'd have to dump some of the yeast trub from the bottom using the bottle. I did however purchase the pressure kit with the fermentasaurus. I'm just using the standard lid and airlock for this brew so could I potentially just sanitise the pressure kit and put a bit of Co2 in to extract a sample that way through the floating ball?

Or is there a really easy way that I just haven't figured out yet?

Thanks team!


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## brewgasm (27/3/18)

I would use the pressure kit


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## NzBrewerMatt (27/3/18)

brewgasm said:


> I would use the pressure kit


Yeah thanks. Just seems to be a bit risky with swapping the lids as it will allow oxygen to get in. I guess i could add Co2 and then purge out the oxygen. More oxygen would potentially get in when i add the normal airlock lid back on though.


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## Wobbly74 (27/3/18)

Why replace the regular air lock? Just use the pressure top and use a blowoff tube attached to a gas quick disconnect with the tube running into some sanitiser.


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## NzBrewerMatt (27/3/18)

Wobbly74 said:


> Why replace the regular air lock? Just use the pressure top and use a blowoff tube attached to a gas quick disconnect with the tube running into some sanitiser.


Thanks. Not a bad idea actually. I will probably do this as i want to use the pressure kit to pressure transfer into my keg so it saves having to switch the lids.


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## Fro-Daddy (27/3/18)

I think some people use a picnic tap to take a sample.
Apparently there is a spot that can be drilled for a racking arm as well?


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## NzBrewerMatt (27/3/18)

Fro-Daddy said:


> I think some people use a picnic tap to take a sample.
> Apparently there is a spot that can be drilled for a racking arm as well?


Yeah there is an additional racking arm that can be purchased but drilling a hole in the fermenter voids the warranty so I don't really want to do that unless as a last resort.


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## Meddo (27/3/18)

As described above, disconnect with beer line into a bottle of Starsan for the blowoff, and a disconnect with a short line and picnic tap for samples.

The springs in the liquid post and disconnects clog up easily with hop matter - I found that removing the pins from the post and disconnect was the easiest fix for this but you need to remember to depressurise before you remove that liquid disconnect.


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## NzBrewerMatt (27/3/18)

Meddo said:


> As described above, disconnect with beer line into a bottle of Starsan for the blowoff, and a disconnect with a short line and picnic tap for samples.
> 
> The springs in the liquid post and disconnects clog up easily with hop matter - I found that removing the pins from the post and disconnect was the easiest fix for this but you need to remember to depressurise before you remove that liquid disconnect.
> 
> ...


Thanks for that. I'll do that when ready to take a hydrometer sample. Looks easier just using the blow off tube instead of the airlock. How much Co2 in psi do you load when taking a small sample?


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## Meddo (27/3/18)

NzBrewerMatt said:


> Thanks for that. I'll do that when ready to take a hydrometer sample. Looks easier just using the blow off tube instead of the airlock. How much Co2 in psi do you load when taking a small sample?


No idea, I have a service line from my keezer that's usually between 1 bar and 3 bar, I just tap that onto the post for a moment or a few seconds (depending on line pressure) to give it a bit of a squirt, you can feel the vessel get a slight firmness to it which should be plenty. If not, give it a bit more. Don't leave it connected at 3 bar though....

You don't need much pressure in the FV to dispense through the tap, unless it's blocked - and pressure probably won't help then anyway. If you're not planning on carbonating in the FV then release the pressure once you've dispensed your sample.


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## Wobbly74 (27/3/18)

Meddo said:


> The springs in the liquid post and disconnects clog up easily with hop matter - I found that removing the pins from the post and disconnect was the easiest fix for this but you need to remember to depressurise before you remove that liquid disconnect.


My face can attest to that...


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## Yuz (29/3/18)

Has anyone had issues with Fermentasaurus leaking gas at the top cap?
I've used keg lube on both sides of the flanged gasket and made sure it sits properly over the opening edge, but it still hisses through...


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## markp (29/3/18)

Yuz said:


> Has anyone had issues with Fermentasaurus leaking gas at the top cap?
> I've used keg lube on both sides of the flanged gasket and made sure it sits properly over the opening edge, but it still hisses through...



I did have probs initially but found that I wasn’t tightening the collar enough and by giving it that extra 1/4 of a turn I can hold 15 psi no probs, I’ve had it up to 25 psi without leaks aswell.


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## Yuz (29/3/18)

That gasket should've been made reinforced somehow (co-moulded with a rigid centre?) - it just seems to squeeze out of shape...
I've re-seated it and charged to 6PSI - we'll see how it holds. I've had no issues with it leaking a little previously for transfers, but attempting to pressure ferment it's major headache...


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## Kev R (29/3/18)

Mine did that with the original gasket,the replacement seems ok 3 brews so far.
I make sure that I always have a spare new gasket on hand.


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## garage_life (11/4/18)

In regards to the gasket / O ring, to prevent extruding (seal deforming under pressure / compression and leaking) most high pressure seals have a back up ring. All this is is a nylon / Teflon / hard plastic ring that sits behind the O ring (opposite to the pressure force) to stop the deformation. I know those doesn't really help but changing Tina harder seal or homebrewing up a back up ring will increase sealing, also lube is your friend, threads and seals dry seals don't seal well. 30psi is nothing pressure wise though, I'd be looking at the plastic surface finish and seal finish.


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