# Fat Yak K&k Clone



## timryan

Gday guys after much searching i only came across AG ways to brew a Fat Yak Clone... While on the net i stubbled arcoss this on though and i thought i would try and get a few opinions..

Fat Yak.
1.7kg Coopers Pale ale
1kg Light Dry Malt
250 grams Dextrose
15g Cascade hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @0min
15g Cascade hops dry hop
US-05 Yeast

it does also say that you could use 150g Wheat Malt extract - Steep (if you can get some it will help).. Ive never used wheat malt extract does it make a big difference?

or this one

1x coopers pale ale
1kg ldme
250g dextrose
33g cascade at 10min
27g Nelson Sauvin at 10mins
28g Nelson Sauvin at 0min
and 32g cascade dry hopped

Just wondering what you guys thought..


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## manticle

I can't tell you if it will end up with a fat yak clone but the top recipe inparticular looks like it will make a very decent kits and bits beer.

Wheat malt extract won't need to be steeped - just added like any other extract. Should help with body and head retention depending on how much is used. It will also add to/change flavour if used in large amounts.

Keep it simple, go for the top one as is. Boil 250 grams of the dry malt in 2 1/2 litres of water for your hop boil. Dissolve the rest with your tin.

Don't worry overly if you get lumpy 'maltesers'. They will dissolve in the brew as it ferments. However if you have a whisk (clean, sanitised) that will help dissolve them properly at the beginning.


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## seamad

I've made the one on the top (before turning to all grain brewing) and can vouch that it is a very nice drop, I tasted it side by side with a fat yak, homebrew was hoppier but both I and my partner thought it was better ( she didn't know which was what when tasting). The real fat yak I think is more malty despite the "truck load of hops"on the label. There is also a very subtle roastiness to the real one as well. I fermented with 1056/05.Made several of these and ended up dry hopping with 15g of nelson as well as the cascade,which explains why it was hoppier than the real one.


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## seamad

Forgot to add that I did use 150g of dry wheat malt too.


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## bullfrog

Occassionally, when I want a quick keg-filler, I'll put down a TCB Wal's Pale Ale, TCB Euro blend (some mix of dex, LDME and lactose,) 200g steeped crystal and about 15-20g Cascade or NS either steeped or dry-hopped. It's more or less the Country Brewer's K&B recipe for Fat Yak. Doesn't taste exactly like it but it's a damn good beer.


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## Shifter

My rendition of A Fat Yak clone - actually tastes nothing like Fat Yak and is lighter, but it is very, very nice, hops really stand out. Good creamy head and excellent lacing.

*Plump Yak*

22 ltrs.
1.5 kg Cooper LME Light x 2
250g DME light
150g light malt grain (3EBC)
150g Carared (40EBC)
10g Cascade @ 30 mins - 5% AA
5g Nelson Sauvin @ 30 mins - 11.4% AA
10g Cascade @10mins
5g Nelson Sauvin @ 10 mins
10 g Cascade @ 5 mins
5g Nelson Sauvin @ 5 mins
US – 05 Yeast.

Dry hop 22g Cascade at day 4-5 of Fermentation.

Steep grain for 30 mins at 65 Deg C in 1 ltr of water, strain/Spage with 1 ltr of warm water in to boil wort, total wort 5 ltrs, add 620g ish of LME to bring up to 1040. Boil for 30 mins adding hops as above.


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## yum beer

I hate to say it, but if it doesnt taste anything like Fat Yak, then it ain't a Fat Yak clone.

Congratulations you made a beer.


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## Shifter

It ain't Fat Yak, it's Plump Yak!


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## beerdrinkingbob

Tim,

No sure if it will be a clone but those hops will be tasty, i think your on a winner there no matter if it's a clone or not.


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## timryan

thanks bob just wondering is your opinion in regards to the first or second recipe that i wrote up? Cheers tim


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## J Grimmer

Tim, I agree with bob, i think both will produce good beer, if i was brewing i woud probably do the first one the different additions would more likely have a more layered flavour and aroma at the end of the fermentation. 

Jan


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## beerdrinkingbob

Hey Tim,

Agree with other posters, the top on looks like the go, you will get plenty of flavour and give you an idea what you think hops your using, the second one might be a little too big, really depends on you taste. If it was me I would try the first and if you want more of a hop bomb go from there.

Cheers BDB


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## Pennywise

I'd go for the first recipe also, will come out much hopper than a Fatty but I like the look of it. If your keen on liquid yeast grab a pack of Wyeast 1272 American ale 2 ferment cool


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## timryan

Awesome thanks fellas ill add it to my to do list haha.. Its getting longer and longer haha


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## milob40

beerdrinkingbob said:


> Hey Tim,
> 
> Agree with other posters, the top on looks like the go, you will get plenty of flavour and give you an idea what you think hops your using, the second one might be a little too big, really depends on you taste. If it was me I would try the first and if you want more of a hop bomb go from there.
> 
> Cheers BDB


+1 bottom recipe way too hoppy might be alright if using light malt instead of the pale ale kit.


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## mrkitewhitey

_*Fat Yak.
1.7kg Coopers Pale ale
1kg Light Dry Malt
250 grams Dextrose
15g Cascade hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @0min
15g Cascade hops dry hop
US-05 Yeast*_


Hi Guys....

I'm gonna have a shot at this on the weekend and need something explained to me if that's cool...? 

With the addition of hops, I'm wondering what is actually meant by '@10Min" etc.... Does this go in 10 mins into the boil? How long should the boil actually boil for?? 

Dry hopping I assume is the addition of the dry hops into the fermenter after a few days or is it before pitching the yeast? 

hmmm... so many little things I'm picking up on but I couldn't find an explanation for these ones.... 

Thanks in advance.... 

Tony


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## Pennywise

if a recipe calls for hops @ 10 mins, the it's added the last 10 mins of the boil. So if the whole recipe has hops at 60, 40, and 10, then that is how long you boil them for, 60 mins, 40 mins, & 10 mins. Dry hops are usually added after 3-4 days ferment starts, as the fermentation can drive off some aroma at the start because it's so vigorous.


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## mrkitewhitey

Pennywise said:


> if a recipe calls for hops @ 10 mins, the it's added the last 10 mins of the boil. So if the whole recipe has hops at 60, 40, and 10, then that is how long you boil them for, 60 mins, 40 mins, & 10 mins. Dry hops are usually added after 3-4 days ferment starts, as the fermentation can drive off some aroma at the start because it's so vigorous.




Aah thanks mate... Great to learn all this new stuff... Shit, it's all new to me..  

Thanks again

Tony


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## The Giant

Very similar to a fat yak clone I put down
think i started hop additions at 15 mins though
and i used an blacks rocks east indian pale ale as the base
waiting for it to condition now


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## timryan

good work fellas im looking forward to trying this one too it may possible be the next one to go down for me. That or a JSGA style clone


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## discoloop

When I drink Fat Yak I find sometimes you get a real Cascade hit straight off the bat, with a much more subtle hop character at the end. That Cascade hit is sometimes like a punch in the face but sometimes is just a note. It seems to vary from case to case but I much prefer when it's a big hit. The NS character is little more than just a note.

If I were trying to clone it I'd probably start with a single 60 min addition of NS for bittering, a generous Cascade addition with maybe a hint (only a hint) of NS at 0 mins. The aroma is actually quite restrained, so I would steer clear of dry hopping altogether for my first attempt. IMO that's probably a starting point that would get you closer to the commercial product.

Just realised you're using a hopped kit. If that's the case I'd probably go with a single 0 minute addition, probably 75% Cascade, 25% NS.


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## whippee

Pennywise said:


> if a recipe calls for hops @ 10 mins, the it's added the last 10 mins of the boil. So if the whole recipe has hops at 60, 40, and 10, then that is how long you boil them for, 60 mins, 40 mins, & 10 mins. Dry hops are usually added after 3-4 days ferment starts, as the fermentation can drive off some aroma at the start because it's so vigorous.




Hello, 

Pardon my rookie state, but I have question. I am also going to give this recipe a shot. I have always done k&k, a couple of wet paks, but am looking to move along a bit. I understand the boiling times of hops, but what are we boiling? Is it the 1.7 kg can contents and the light malt extract with bit of water. If so how much water?

Thanks again and love reading the forum

andy


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## kelbygreen

I have been told that when they do a fat yak all the hops are added at flame out well I think I was told to bitter at about 15IBU at a 60min boil and dump the rest in the whirlpool 30g cascade to 5 grams NS comes to memory but not 100% sure on that but id skip the bittering use a low bittered kit and bring 600g LDME to boil with 6lts of water and then boil for 10mins shut off heat add maybe the 30g cascade and 5g NS to start off with give it a good swirl put the lid on for 10-15 mins and then submerge the pot in water to cool fast.


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## kelbygreen

whippee you boil with a boil gravity of about 1040 is ideal but lower and higher can be used. For extract or K&K use 100g of LDME to 1 lt of water for liquid I am not to sure it may be like 120g per lt or something never used liquid


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## discoloop

kelbygreen said:


> I think I was told to bitter at about 15IBU at a 60min boil and dump the rest in the whirlpool 30g cascade to 5 grams NS.



If this is true I really wasn't too far off the mark... Might have to give it a go...



discoloop said:


> I'd probably go with a single 0 minute addition, probably 75% Cascade, 25% NS.


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## Pennywise

whippee said:


> Hello,
> 
> Pardon my rookie state, but I have question. I am also going to give this recipe a shot. I have always done k&k, a couple of wet paks, but am looking to move along a bit. I understand the boiling times of hops, but what are we boiling? Is it the 1.7 kg can contents and the light malt extract with bit of water. If so how much water?
> 
> Thanks again and love reading the forum
> 
> andy



If doing kit's, then generally the kit itself is not boiled as this can drive off some of the aroma from it (if it in fact had any to start with). For extract recipes, as said, a gravity of around 1035-1040 is where you want to aim. This gets you the most out of your hops because this gravity is where isomerisation (locking in those bittering) will take place at a greater rate. It's always best to boil the full volume of wort, but it's not always practical with extract brewing. I tend to boil around 10L with 1kg of dme/lme and add the rest, be it kit or more extract in the last few mins of the boil.

:icon_cheers:


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## mrkitewhitey

Hey Guys,

I'm going to try to put together a clone of this clone recipe tomorrow based on ingredients I could find/already had lying around. I need help regarding the best way to put them all together though. 

I have:

*1 can coopers Pale Ale
1 x BE2
250g Dextrose
2 x 12g Nelson Sauvin Hop teabags
2 x 12g Cascade Teabags.*

I'm just wanting ideas on how best to chuck it all together as I'm pretty new to homebrewing still. 

thanks a million in advance. :icon_chickcheers: 

Tony


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## kbear

Hi, 

I'm a fan of the Fat Yak and a family member bought me a Coopers Pale kit for Christmas so I may as well put it to good use with this recipe.

Problem is the LHBS(s) here in Adelaide don't seem to stock Nelson Sauvin at the momnet. Does anyone know of a suitable alternative for NS for this brew? And if so, what quantities?

cheers in advance!


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## keifer33

Nelson Sauvin is a very unique hop that cant really be replaced. Have you looked at ordering online? One of the site sponsors will more than likely have it


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## kbear

keifer33 said:


> Nelson Sauvin is a very unique hop that cant really be replaced. Have you looked at ordering online? One of the site sponsors will more than likely have it


Hi, thanks for the info. I looked online at Beer Belly, Brew Adelaide and Craft Brewer. I just assumed there must be a NS shortage at the moment, so I went looking for alternatives.


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## bignath

keifer33 said:


> Nelson Sauvin is a very unique hop that cant really be replaced. Have you looked at ordering online? One of the site sponsors will more than likely have it




Yep, agree with Keifer. Based upon some recipe suggestions that i've read, probably a close(ish) substitute would be Citra??

Nelso Sauvin as an absolute ripper of a hop. It's hands down my favourite hop, but it needs to be used with caution. If you overdo it, you'll end up with nothing but fruit salad.

My house beer is a Nelson Sauvin SMASH (single malt single hop - im an all grain brewer), it's an amazing hop if used with care.

Just ordered half a kilo from Ross (Craftbrewer) this morning, can't wait for the weekend - BREWDAY!!


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## mrkitewhitey

Hey Guys,

I just did this recipe up a while back and it has been in the bottle a few weeks now... Had one last night, TASTES GREAT but it is fizzy as anything... Kind ahas the texture of champagne... I just used the 2 coopers drops as I have done will all batches in my fledgeling brewing career.... Will this settle down the longer it ages? 

Thanks 

Tony


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## kelbygreen

not sure if it will settle down. was it fully fermented out??? I found carb drops inconsistent and over carbed. So I just used sugar or dextrose with a scope that was modified. I weighed the sugar to what each bottle needed then cut the scope to the level of the sugar


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## mrkitewhitey

kelbygreen said:


> not sure if it will settle down. was it fully fermented out??? I found carb drops inconsistent and over carbed. So I just used sugar or dextrose with a scope that was modified. I weighed the sugar to what each bottle needed then cut the scope to the level of the sugar



Hey,

yeh, it was definitely done fermenting... Same reading over 3-4 days... I think It's a case of the drops being too potent... I might try next batch (toucan real ale and Aust pale ale and 1kg dextrose) with just one drop instead of the 2 and see how it goes..... Shame cos the Yak clone tastes great....

Oh well, hopefully It'll chill out?? We'll see huh..

Thanks mate


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## going down a hill

You could open each bottle and then reseal it to let a bit of the pressure out. if left for a week or two the fizz will calm down a bit.


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## kjparker

Ok,

Putting the first one down tonight after bottling the Lager currently in the fermenter.

Wish me luck!


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## kjparker

clueless said:


> Ok,
> 
> Putting the first one down tonight after bottling the Lager currently in the fermenter.
> 
> Wish me luck!




Ok, I got this into the fermenter last night. Took my Starting gravity, and it was a little on the low side for what I would have expected, with that much fermentables in there. It came to 1.037.

Is it possible I just didnt mix it properly?


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## kjparker

clueless said:


> Ok, I got this into the fermenter last night. Took my Starting gravity, and it was a little on the low side for what I would have expected, with that much fermentables in there. It came to 1.037.
> 
> Is it possible I just didnt mix it properly?




Took a samply last night after dry hopping the fermenter. It's extremely bitter, though if you hold it in your mouth a while, some of the other hop flavour comes through.
Is it likely some of that bitterness will mellow with time, without losing the other flavours? I guestimate that I have about another week to go in the fermenter. Then I intend to leave it another 4 in the bottle before cracking.


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## Braedz

clueless said:


> Took a samply last night after dry hopping the fermenter. It's extremely bitter, though if you hold it in your mouth a while, some of the other hop flavour comes through.
> Is it likely some of that bitterness will mellow with time, without losing the other flavours? I guestimate that I have about another week to go in the fermenter. Then I intend to leave it another 4 in the bottle before cracking.



I am making a Fat Yak Style Pale ale at the moment. After 2 weeks of fermenting, the beer was still relatively bitter as well. The beer is currently conditioning in 750ml Grolsch Flip top bottles. I really hope the bitterness does mellow.


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## kjparker

Just had another taste, couldnt help myself!

Ok, the bitterness is still there, but it isnt the first thing you taste. I think this is going to turn out to be a wee little ripper! Cant wait!


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## timryan

Gday Guys,
Finally sorted myself out and go the ingredients to knock out the brew.. Ive got with:

1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale
1kg Light Dry Malt Extract
150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
250 grams Dextrose
15g Cascade hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @0min
15g Cascade hops dry hop
US-05 Yeast

Looking forward to it so should be exciting... It will be going in when my dark ale comes out on the 14th... Cheers Ross at CB for the stuff


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## kjparker

timryan said:


> Gday Guys,
> Finally sorted myself out and go the ingredients to knock out the brew.. Ive got with:
> 
> 1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale
> 1kg Light Dry Malt Extract
> 150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
> 250 grams Dextrose
> 15g Cascade hops @10min
> 15g Nelson Sauvin hops @10min
> 15g Nelson Sauvin hops @0min
> 15g Cascade hops dry hop
> US-05 Yeast
> 
> Looking forward to it so should be exciting... It will be going in when my dark ale comes out on the 14th... Cheers Ross at CB for the stuff



You wont regret it.

I tried mine again last night. Had to stop myself puring myself another from the fermenter!


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## timryan

Did you do this from the recipe on my original post?


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## kjparker

timryan said:


> Did you do this from the recipe on my original post?




yes!


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## timryan

Good Form i cant wait... How did you steep the Wheat Malt Extract?


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## kjparker

timryan said:


> Good Form i cant wait... How did you steep the Wheat Malt Extract?



I didnt use the wheat malt, just used the recipe as was, without the optional wheat


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## timryan

Can anyone explain the flavours that a wheat extract place in a beer?


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## Lodan

timryan said:


> Can anyone explain the flavours that a wheat extract place in a beer?



Not sure about the flavour but i understand that wheat extract adds a different mouth feel to the beer. To be honest i can't quite describe it.


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## mwd

If the wheat is in a powder form it does not require steeping just add it like any other dry malt extract.

With only 150g I doubt it will make any major contribution to the recipe at all. Head retention and body probably gone for 300-500g.


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## timryan

I picked up half a kilo of the stuff so I might put in a little extra... Will it raise the alcohol content though? Will if just increase the Head retention and add body will there be a change in flavour? I have just got the dry extract


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## mwd

timryan said:


> I picked up half a kilo of the stuff so I might put in a little extra... Will it raise the alcohol content though? Will if just increase the Head retention and add body will there be a change in flavour? I have just got the dry extract




Wheat malt extract is a mixture of barley dme and wheat so yes it will increase the alcohol content. Just use and calculate as you would any dried malt extract.

I have used wheat on a few occasions usually 500g to kit and bits and I cannot really make out any distinctive flavour addition.

I am not a great fan of wheat only beers so god knows why I put wheat in mine. I read it on the internet that it makes better brews so it must be right.

Latest brew just bottled is a Galaxy Golden Ale based on Dr. Smurto's recipe and I put a pile of wheat in 500g dry + can of Coopers wheat so should pick up some wheat flavour from that.


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## timryan

So should I back off on the LDME? To bring it up about a kilo of extract...like 750grams of LDME and 250grams wheat?


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## mwd

Too much mucking around just add 250g + LDME should be good. If you are worried about alcohol content then just drop the dex.

Have not run the numbers but should not be that high in alcohol as is, nothing wrong with a 5% + beer IMO.

I have only had Fat Yak on tap and was not overly impressed hope the bottled version is better. Must make an effort to try but am hooked on T Taylor Landlord at the moment.


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## timryan

Cheers thanks very much for the advice... Cheers Tropical


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## King Nothing

timryan said:


> Gday Guys,
> Finally sorted myself out and go the ingredients to knock out the brew.. Ive got with:
> 
> 1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale
> 1kg Light Dry Malt Extract
> 150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
> 250 grams Dextrose
> 15g Cascade hops @10min
> 15g Nelson Sauvin hops @10min
> 15g Nelson Sauvin hops @0min
> 15g Cascade hops dry hop
> US-05 Yeast
> 
> Looking forward to it so should be exciting... It will be going in when my dark ale comes out on the 14th... Cheers Ross at CB for the stuff



This may be a silly question, I'm just starting out and I've read some conflicting information. When exactly do you add the 1.7kg Cooper Pale Ale? Just trying to get the process set in my head. Is it correct that you don't boil it as it is pre-hopped?

My understanding is that the wheat malt extract is steeped, then the LDME/dextrose is added with water and boiled until hot break is reached (maybe not? Or just go straight to adding hops once it's boiling?). Add 15g Cascade/15g NS, boil 10 mins, add 15g NS, turn off heat. Add 1.7kg Coopers can, stir in, strain into fermenter, add dry hop and extra water to temperature, pitch yeast and away we go.

Have I got it right?


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## mwd

Wheat malt extract does not require steeping just use same as any dry extract.

Use 200g of wheat malt extract in 2L of boiling water then add hops and boil for 10mins.

Everything else can go into fermenter and mix with water. Wash out can with boiling water to get all the extract out into fermenter.

Add the boiled hops and extract you can strain or not does not really matter that much. Mix thoroughly and when the temperature is down to about 18C add the yeast.


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## King Nothing

Tropical_Brews said:


> Wheat malt extract does not require steeping just use same as any dry extract.
> 
> Use 200g of wheat malt extract in 2L of boiling water then add hops and boil for 10mins.
> 
> Everything else can go into fermenter and mix with water. Wash out can with boiling water to get all the extract out into fermenter.
> 
> Add the boiled hops and extract you can strain or not does not really matter that much. Mix thoroughly and when the temperature is down to about 18C add the yeast.



Fantastic, thanks mate. The 1kg LDME goes straight into the fermenter also?


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## mwd

King Nothing said:


> Fantastic, thanks mate. The 1kg LDME goes straight into the fermenter also?



Yep no need to boil, just stir the sh**T out of it to get it to dissolve.

heard it dissolves better in cool water than hot but cannot verify that.


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## King Nothing

Tropical_Brews said:


> Yep no need to boil, just stir the sh**T out of it to get it to dissolve.
> 
> heard it dissolves better in cool water than hot but cannot verify that.



Awesome, thanks again.


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## Lodan

Tropical_Brews said:


> heard it dissolves better in cool water than hot but cannot verify that.



Spot on TB, it tends to clump when added to hot water or too quickly to any water.


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## Samuel Adams

King Nothing said:


> My understanding is that the wheat malt extract is steeped, then the LDME/dextrose is added with water and boiled until hot break is reached (maybe not? Or just go straight to adding hops once it's boiling?). Add 15g Cascade/15g NS, boil 10 mins, add 15g NS, turn off heat. Add 1.7kg Coopers can, stir in, strain into fermenter, *add dry hop* and extra water to temperature, pitch yeast and away we go.



I haven't done any dry hopping yet by from what I've read on here you dry hop after a few days of fermemting has taken place.
Like maybe day 4 or 5 ? (Not 100% sure if someone else can confirm)


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## kalbarluke

Yes. After four or five days take the lid off the fermenter and throw the hops in. Don't worry about oxygen getting in and ruining your beer because after 4 or 5 days of fermentation there should be a thick layer of CO2 that will act like a blanket (because CO2 is heavier than oxygen). They don't need to be in a hop bag - they can just be loose pellets.
Don't leave the lid off for ages but a few seconds should be fine.


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## kjparker

Well Mines ready to bottle. It's tasting awesome!

Might get the bottles ready tonight, and do it tomorrow evening!


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## kjparker

clueless said:


> Well Mines ready to bottle. It's tasting awesome!
> 
> Might get the bottles ready tonight, and do it tomorrow evening!


only just now got a chance to sample a bottle. It's mighty tasty.

I'm really looking for a hop aroma kick in the teeth though, so if I were to increase the hop additions, but a half, or even double, any educated guesses as to what this would do to the brew?


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## parrja

Fat Yak.
1.7kg Black Rock IPA
1.0kg DME
15g Cascade hops @15min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @15min
15g Cascade hops @5min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @5min
US-05 Yeast

Fermented for 14 days at 18 degrees then filtered into a Keg.

Drinking the above right now. Only 3 weeks since I put it in the fermenter and already very nice. In fact I've been drinking it for the last week! The hops are starting to fade now, and they were so nice. Will add more hops next time perhaps and dry hop.


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## Matt Browne

Hey Tim

I just got all the ingredients to brew the top receipe over the weekend.

Looking forward to the end result.

Cheers Matt


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## timryan

Good luck matt I've got the ingredients too just need to bottle a Amarillo ale that's been cold conditioning since late July.. Just dry hopped yesterday with another 25grams of Amarillo which brings it too a total of 85grams.. Love the hop flavours.. Good luck matt


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## Matt Browne

Thanks Tim I'll let you know how I go. The Amarillo sounds hopped to the max!!



timryan said:


> Good luck matt I've got the ingredients too just need to bottle a Amarillo ale that's been cold conditioning since late July.. Just dry hopped yesterday with another 25grams of Amarillo which brings it too a total of 85grams.. Love the hop flavours.. Good luck matt


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## timryan

Yer 40gms of it has been dry hopped.. Some of the hop flavor will disappear so I've compenstated for it.. Haha.. It's good mate get on it..


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## bisho

Hey Guys with this recipe how much water are you boiling?
I'd like to give this a try and see how it turns out thanks

Bisho


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## timryan

2.5 L Bisho


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## bisho

Ok thanks for that timryan
Bisho


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## rehab

mrkitewhitey said:


> Aah thanks mate... Great to learn all this new stuff... Shit, it's all new to me..
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> Tony



Yeah I wanted to ask that too. Glad I learnt another new thing as well!


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## timryan

Just put this one down but upped the hops a little added an extra 15g of cascade at flameout and I'll dry hop with 15g of both Instead of just cascade just to increase the flavor...


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## Salt

Im over in NZ and have heard many people talking about Fat Yak and that it was a pretty good Pale Ale (which is my drinking style of choice) and plenty of people were posting recipes etc for this particular drop. 

So it was to my suprise to find it available at a local Food Store yesterday. I quickly snapped up a 6pk and didnt even bother buying food. Went home and gave it a whirl.

I must say, I was completely disappointed with it actually. Found it to be lacking in bitterness, flavour and aroma, of which out of the bottle there was barely none. Stock wasnt that old.

In anycase, this post is about a Fat Yak clone. So I am going to keep a bottle of the commercial product and make a clone for a comparison, as Im sure with fresh ingredients, I can make it much better.

Havent decided yet if I will go full extract or K&B....may even try a mini BIAB that I have just started doing.

Anyways, thats my 2c on the actual commercial product and thoughts about making a clone.

Cheers all and happy brewing!


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## seanokil

I made a brew recently tasted quite similar to fat yak prob better. I was drinking it with a mate who had a 6er of fat yak.The taste was very similar its gunna be my staple now!
It was a cascade pale ale with 25g of cascade hops just dropped into wort with brew enhancer.Im gunna try this again next brew day and put it in recipe D/B if it turns out the samecoz it was damn tasty


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## Rizzla

Would I be right in concluding it is predominantly the inclusion of Nelson Sauvin hops that give the characteristic floral citrusy taste to Fat yak, Little creatures and a few others I have tasted at WA micro brewries?


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## GrumpyPaul

did a side by side with my Yak clone and the real thing.

Mines on the right...

apart from mine being a bit darker - flavour and aroma was pretty close.

Must say I am pretty proud of this one. 


Heres the recipe I used

1 can Tooheys Classic Dry Lager (I use any old can of goo for a base)
750g Dried Light Malt
120g light Crystal Malt
120g Dark Crystal Malt
1kg Honey
10g Nelson Sauvin Hops @ 15mins
15g Nelson Sauvin Hops @ 5mins
10g Nelson Sauvin Hops @ 0mins
US05 yeast

(edited to add the recipe)


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## bisho

I must say that this is a real nice drop and i will be making it again i too am proud of this one best one so far. Tasted it's best after a week in the keg.

bisho


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## timryan

Hey guys this is how im rolling currently.. could i grab some opinion please..

Ingredients:
1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale Kit
1kg LDME
45g Cascade Hops Pellets
45g Nelson Sauvin Hops Pellets 
US05 Yeast 
150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
250g Dextrose

Recipe:
-Dissolve 750g Light Dry Malt Extract
-Add 1 x Coopers Pale Ale Kit
- Add Boil.
- Top up to 23L.
- Pitch with US05 Yeast Re Hydrated.

Boil:
- Bring 2L of water to boil.
- Dissolved 250g Light Dry Malt Extract.
15g Cascade hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @10min
15g Nelson Sauvin hops @0min
15g Cascade hops - @0min
- Hop additions as per above.
- Allow to cool than added to fermenter.

Dry Hop:
15g Cascade hops dry hop
15g Nelson Sauvin dry hop 

Racked Off
Racked Off 19.10.2011
Cold Conditioning Started


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## The Giant

timy the clone i make is pretty much spot on to urs except i use Coopers IPA as my base not the real ale and use Cooper liquid LDM can to

Happy to say mine was pretty much spot on to Fat Yak except maybe a touch more bitterness. Might try upping the hops late or just use a real ale kit like u have done to see the difference


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## timryan

do you think it would be worth dry hopping while cold conditioning giant?


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## jamespfoster

timryan said:


> Hey guys this is how im rolling currently.. could i grab some opinion please..
> 
> Ingredients:
> 1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale Kit
> 1kg LDME
> 45g Cascade Hops Pellets
> 45g Nelson Sauvin Hops Pellets
> US05 Yeast
> 150g Wheat Malt Extract - Steep
> 250g Dextrose
> 
> Recipe:
> -Dissolve 750g Light Dry Malt Extract
> -Add 1 x Coopers Pale Ale Kit
> - Add Boil.
> - Top up to 23L.
> - Pitch with US05 Yeast Re Hydrated.
> 
> Boil:
> - Bring 2L of water to boil.
> - Dissolved 250g Light Dry Malt Extract.
> 15g Cascade hops @10min
> 15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @10min
> 15g Nelson Sauvin hops – @0min
> 15g Cascade hops - @0min
> - Hop additions as per above.
> - Allow to cool than added to fermenter.
> 
> Dry Hop:
> 15g Cascade hops dry hop
> 15g Nelson Sauvin dry hop
> 
> Racked Off
> Racked Off 19.10.2011
> Cold Conditioning Started



Hey Guys,

I used this recipe today - except for the 150g wheat malt - and I thought everything went pretty well (my second brew). However the OG is only 1030 - I would have expected much more. Thought it was dodgy hyrdometer - but used a spare I have and it reads the same. What could cause such a low reading? Is my beer stuffed?
Thanks for any advice or help!!!


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## kymba

what temp was the wort when you took the measurement?

hydrometers are calibrated to a certain temp, say 20 degrees, and you will need to punch your gravity x degrees to get the proper reading

i use a refractometer so i don't get this problem, and don't know where the correction tables are...try the googles


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## yum beer

AusJF said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I used this recipe today - except for the 150g wheat malt - and I thought everything went pretty well (my second brew). However the OG is only 1030 - I would have expected much more. Thought it was dodgy hyrdometer - but used a spare I have and it reads the same. What could cause such a low reading? Is my beer stuffed?
> Thanks for any advice or help!!!




You should be around 1040-1042, maybe you havent dissolved all your goo...


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## jamespfoster

yum beer said:


> You should be around 1040-1042, maybe you havent dissolved all your goo...



That's what I thought it should have been. All the goo was definitely dissolved (as was the dex and DME). Would it be possible if the wort wasn't stirred enough that I could possibly get a part of the wort with a lower SG?
And the temperature of the wort was about 26 when I took the reading, so it wouldn't explain too much of a variation.... Even if there was a 'hot spot' this wouldn't make up the missing 10 SG....

Really have no idea what the hell happened :unsure:


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## The Giant

timryan said:


> do you think it would be worth dry hopping while cold conditioning giant?



Sorry timryan, didnt see this until then.

Dry hopping was good, but if doing so when cold conditioning I find u need to leave it 2-3 weeks in the keg to condition further prior to drinking
if not u get a bit of a herbal kind of taste

I'm thinking for my next one just upping the hops at flame out instead of dry hopping


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## boingk

AusJF - if you put in all the ingredients and topped with water to the right level (21~22L not 25L for example) then you should be fine to ferment away. Most likely theres still some goo etc still at the bottom. The yeast will ferment this out easily, I wouldn't worry. So long as you havent left anything out you should be fine.

For what its worth, I haven't use d a hydrometer in over 50 brews and I'm doing fine. it can be useful for determening when ferments stop, but for the most part I simply look at brew activity and yeast sediment to determine when a ferment is over. Clean top, dark-looking fermenter and compact sediment means brew over. Generally this will be around the 5 to 10 day mark for most basic beers.

Cheers - boingk


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## jamespfoster

boingk said:


> AusJF - if you put in all the ingredients and topped with water to the right level (21~22L not 25L for example) then you should be fine to ferment away. Most likely theres still some goo etc still at the bottom. The yeast will ferment this out easily, I wouldn't worry. So long as you havent left anything out you should be fine.
> 
> For what its worth, I haven't use d a hydrometer in over 50 brews and I'm doing fine. it can be useful for determening when ferments stop, but for the most part I simply look at brew activity and yeast sediment to determine when a ferment is over. Clean top, dark-looking fermenter and compact sediment means brew over. Generally this will be around the 5 to 10 day mark for most basic beers.
> 
> Cheers - boingk



Thanks boingk - will keep going and see how it turns out! Definitely good to have the advice of you guys on this forum.


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## boingk

No worries mate, I remember what it was like starting out in all this.

As for OG/FG, I stopped because I figured the only reason I wanted to know was to calculate the alcohol percentage. The only reason I'd care about that was to know if I could still drive - and myself and mates generally have a rule that if you've had more than one you don't drive anyway... so it was all a bit useless!

If you are doing allgrain then OG/FG becomes a lot more important as you need to know the efficiency of your brewing. You might get 50% efficiency and have a midstrength stout, or you might get 90% and end up with a full strength 'midstrength'! For largely extract based brewing its not anywhere near that crucial - you put ingredients in and the yest ferments them 

Cheers - boingk


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## MartsHomeBrew

I just discovered a packet of Nelson Hops at the back of my fridge, would like to give this recipe a try for fat yak. What would happen if I replaced the Pale Ale tin with a lager tin? (Which i have several of in the cupboard). Is it possible to replace the ale tin with dry malt extract if not lager tin, as i also have tons of that in stock? Forgive my ignorance


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## carniebrew

MartsHomeBrew said:


> I just discovered a packet of Nelson Hops at the back of my fridge, would like to give this recipe a try for fat yak. What would happen if I replaced the Pale Ale tin with a lager tin? (Which i have several of in the cupboard). Is it possible to replace the ale tin with dry malt extract if not lager tin, as i also have tons of that in stock? Forgive my ignorance


You could replace the Coopers Pale Ale tin with their Lager, the IBU's are pretty close...strangely enough the Lager tin has a few more units. However, if you're replacing the Pale Ale tin with DME, you'll need to make up the 18.5 IBU's you've just lost by adding more hops to the boil, and doing a 60 minute boil to extract the amount of bitterness you need. e.g. 15 grams of 11.5%AA Nelson Sauvin boiled for 60 minutes will give you around 19 IBU.


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## MartsHomeBrew

carniebrew said:


> You could replace the Coopers Pale Ale tin with their Lager, the IBU's are pretty close...strangely enough the Lager tin has a few more units. However, if you're replacing the Pale Ale tin with DME, you'll need to make up the 18.5 IBU's you've just lost by adding more hops to the boil, and doing a 60 minute boil to extract the amount of bitterness you need. e.g. 15 grams of 11.5%AA Nelson Sauvin boiled for 60 minutes will give you around 19 IBU.



Thanks for that, Carnie. Going through the thread I noticed someone else used a lager tin so will go with that based on your advice, its the Ibu concept I have not yet paid attention to in the past so I must get onto that. Also do not have any Cascade hops or similar but I do have Hersbrucker, Fuggles & Tettnager. Perhaps might just add a little extra Nelson, I have an 80gm pack. Can't decide for the possible wheat dme addition with everyone's assorted variations on this recipe. If it mellows reduces the mentioned possibility of excessive bitterness, I'd likely add it. Looking forward to this cook up....


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## _HOME_BREW_WALLACE_

try some Munich with a coopers Australian Pale Ale kit and some cascade and nelson sauvin hops. ferment with us05.

cheers


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## carniebrew

MartsHomeBrew said:


> Thanks for that, Carnie. Going through the thread I noticed someone else used a lager tin so will go with that based on your advice, its the Ibu concept I have not yet paid attention to in the past so I must get onto that. Also do not have any Cascade hops or similar but I do have Hersbrucker, Fuggles & Tettnager. Perhaps might just add a little extra Nelson, I have an 80gm pack. Can't decide for the possible wheat dme addition with everyone's assorted variations on this recipe. If it mellows reduces the mentioned possibility of excessive bitterness, I'd likely add it. Looking forward to this cook up....


Yeah sorry I haven't read through the whole 5 pages of this thread, just the last couple. If you don't know about IBU's you're best sticking to pre-hopped beer kit tins, such as Coopers:

- Pale Ale (18 IBU's)
- Draught (23)
- IPA (38)
- Euro Lager (18)
- Real Ale (30)

etc etc. Obviously the higher the number above, the more hop bitterness will be in the end beer. Boiling hops for 60 minutes given you bitterness, adding them towards the end of a boil, or dry hopping, adds mostly just flavour and aroma. So you could take a Pale Ale above and throw 15 grams of Fuggles into the fermenter to make it taste/smell a bit more British...

Your Hersbrucker, Fuggles & Tettnager are all quite low alpha acid hops, better used for late addition/dry hopping for that hoppy aroma. Get your hands on something like Warrior hops (16% AA) to use for 60 minute bittering additions, that way you can use a lot less of them. For example 10 grams of Warrior @ 60 minutes would give you a similar IBU (~18) as using 40 grams of Fuggles @ 60 minutes. Nelson Sauvin is also pretty good for bittering (~13%).


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## capt_pug_wash

After the 10 minute addition of hops and then more at flame out should i leave it cool for about 30 min or put the wort into some cold water.


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## carniebrew

Either way is fine, depends on the volume of water you boiled...the more you boiled, the more sense it makes to cool it in a water bath to speed up the process. If you only boiled a couple of litres it may not matter much....but obviously a water bath is still gonna be quick and easy.


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## cavey

Just Popped one of these into the fermenter today......love my fat yak, so see how it turns out. Thanks again for all the input you can get fom this site......thanks guys!


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## cavey

I notice a lot of people in this thread dry hopping at day 4-5. I am now at day 6, OG was 1043, now 1013, with a target fg of 1010ish. Would I be right to drop in the 15g cascade and Nelson now? Just don't want to go too early and lose flavour with the co2?

Also, how long do you guys normally dry hop for before bottling?

Cheers


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## ash2

All Fat Yak recipes I have come across have Cascade & Nelson Sauvin hops,have Cascade but no Nelson,any ideas what I could try instead of Nelson Sauvin. :chug:


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## carniebrew

Nothing I'm afraid Ash. You can make a good beer without NS, but it won't be anything like a Fat Yak, that beer is all about the Nelson Sauvin.


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## sp0rk

buy some Nelson Sauvin?


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## ash2

carniebrew said:


> Nothing I'm afraid Ash. You can make a good beer without NS, but it won't be anything like a Fat Yak, that beer is all about the Nelson Sauvin.


YEH i'll just hop it up ( 5 varieties arrived from Yob today ) so i'll just make a Yob Yak :lol:


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