# "aussie" Beer



## kevin01041961 (22/2/10)

Hi gents well a "pom" wanting some help and i dont mean with the cricket or the rugby  , but with some ne recipes ones i havnt tried and from down under.
I have been brewing 20 yrs and now do 10 gallon batches one to condition and one 5 gallon that shall we say never gets the chance :beerbang: 
so if you have some ideas and maybe i have some you lads & of course lasses havnt tried

"Cheers" :icon_chickcheers:


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## Pete2501 (22/2/10)

recipeDB
:mellow: 


DrSmurto's Golden Ale has massive rep. Depends what kind of beer you're going for though. 

Weat, USA/AUS/ENG APA, USA/AUS/ENG IPA, Ginger Beer, Bock, Kolsch, Pilsner, Fruit, Lambic etc etc.


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## Gout (22/2/10)

as pete said what beer style do you want - if you want an aussie beer - then i guess coopers ale is the only beer worth brewing

dont bother with a main stream beer VB,cub etc yuck

Australia have many fine beers tho but only beer lovers with taste buds like - they taste like beer - not water

then there are many smaller brewery's and beers


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## Screwtop (22/2/10)

During the last century and a bit old Australian beers changed much in the same way as beers across the world. As refrigeration became more readily available and less expensive ales became lagers. Why, well answering that question regarding almost any commercial decision in multiple choice format "If In Doubt Tick Cost". Less spoilage, lower ingredient cost, less hops required due to the clean lager fermentation characteristics, longer shelf life etc. Less colour, flavour and aroma, well........... maybe, but the marketing dept takes care of that spinning it any which-way to the masses.

Very few old brewery ales remain. Coopers brewery has largely remained true to ales, the goto recipes for the style would be AndrewQLD's recipes to be found in the recipe database

If you would like to make a clone of one of our famous mega lagers then pretty much any pale lager recipe using 20% of adjuncts to reduce colour should work, bittered to 18 - 25 IBU with one addition of Pride of Ringwood or Cluster Hops would do. 

My Ale Clone of XXXX bitter
OG 1.044
FG 1.009
90% Pils Malt
10% Table Sugar (boil 10 min)
Cluster Hops 60 min, 24 IBU
Mash 63, 90 min
Water 120ppm Calc Sulphate
Yeast Saf S-05
Fermentation Temp 18

Ale Clone of XXXX Gold
OG 1.037
FG 1.008
80% Pils Malt
8% Caramalt
4% Wheat Malt
8% Table Sugar (boil 10 min)
Cluster Hops 60 min, 24 IBU
Mash 67, 60 min
Water 120ppm Calc Sulphate
Yeast Saf S-05
Fermentation Temp 18


Cheers,

Screwy


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## boingk (22/2/10)

If you're after a kit version of something quintessentially Aussie, then try this easy knock-off of Coopers Pale Ale that I've made in the past:

1.7kg kit of Coopers Pale Ale (most good 'Draught' or 'Ale' kits would do, look for light colouring and about ~20IBU when made to 22L)
500g LDME
300g dextrose/white sugar
20g Pride of Ringwood hops @ 10 minutes in 1L of water with 50g of the LDME.

Has gone down well with mates, and if you want to give it the edge then just culture up the dregs of yeast from a few bottles of Coopers Pale Ale and ferment at under 18'C. Over this temp will give you banana esters.

Cheers - boingk


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## Nick JD (22/2/10)

Almost all aussie megaswill seems to be a pale malt, 20% sugar and a single addition of Pride of Ringwood to mid-twenties. Which is probably why they all taste the same. 

That XXXX recipe of Screwtop's looks like a good one.


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## Bribie G (22/2/10)

Kev, you don't mention whether you use kits or do full mash. If kits, then the suggestion to use Coopers kits is great as I know they are widely available in the UK. However if you are full mash then here's a fairly good knock off of a Fosters / Carlton style (not the 3.5% fake Fosters they make in the UK at MegaInterBrewCorp or whoever)  A touch of Saaz or Hersbrucker at the end gives a bit of a Cascade Premium 'nose'.

this is for a 23 L brew so double up for your system there.

4 kg Pale Pilsener Malt
500g rice (dry weight) cooked to a mush and stirred into the mash at correct temerature

90 mins 65 degrees

90 mins boil with 30g Pride of Ringwood or 25g Superpride hops.
10g Saaz added 10 minutes before the end of the boil.
300g white sugar added to boil
Whirlfoc tablet


For the yeast, either W-34/70 if you have time and the ability to lager or, if you want a quicker almost as good version, then US-05 but keep fermentation at 17 degrees. If you check out the Craftbrewer site at the top of the page, they supply to the UK all the time as they also advertise on / sponsor the UK homebrewer site (Not Jims, the other one). They give great service and I don't think the postage to the UK is too savage on small items. The use of some Pride of Ringwood or Superpride is a must for Aussie beers.

Cheers

Michael
(born Pontefract, bah goom)


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## kevin01041961 (23/2/10)

Hi yes sorry full mash type beers, i make mainy pale ales with strengths from 4% up to 12% !!! so if you need some recipes and i can help, I have to say i dont know very much about aussie beers  no thats a lie i dont know anything :lol: .

I assume like most of us over here that you drink mainly a "lager " type beer swan, 4 x, etc so the brews you have suggested which i am greatfull for will be tried this weekend if i can get the hops.


We seem to be going through a resurgence in brewing going from most home brew shops closing to the ones that remain open starting to see an improvement in thier takings.

Once again my thanks and i look forward to more of the same :chug:


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## kuba (23/2/10)

boingk said:


> 1.7kg kit of Coopers Pale Ale (most good 'Draught' or 'Ale' kits would do, look for light colouring and about ~20IBU when made to 22L)
> 500g LDME
> 300g dextrose/white sugar
> 20g Pride of Ringwood hops @ 10 minutes in 1L of water with 50g of the LDME.



Hi im new to this site and have only done a handfuls of kit homebrews. Ive just done this coopers kit (pale ale) and am drinking it atm. 
I like my beers bitter and my homebrews have never tasted bitter enough but are always slightly sweet (except once it was sour where i knew i stuffed up).

I dont understand some of the lingo ive read on this site what does ~20IBU, LDME mean; also what do you do with the Ringwood hops @10minutes in 1L of water etc...

Also if you've answered this question a million times is there a link that explains some of the lingo on this site 

cheers


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## manticle (23/2/10)

kuba said:


> Hi im new to this site and have only done a handfuls of kit homebrews. Ive just done this coopers kit (pale ale) and am drinking it atm.
> I like my beers bitter and my homebrews have never tasted bitter enough but are always slightly sweet (except once it was sour where i knew i stuffed up).
> 
> I dont understand some of the lingo ive read on this site what does ~20IBU, LDME mean; also what do you do with the Ringwood hops @10minutes in 1L of water etc...
> ...



IBU is international bittering units - a standard measurement for the bitterness of a brew.
LDME is light dried malt extract
@ x minutes means that's the amount of time you boil them for. A full length grain boil will usually be 60 minutes (although 75 and 90 minute boils are also common). At various points hops may be added for bitterness, flavour and aroma. If you are adding for bitterness, you add early so @60 will refer to a bittering addition that is added early and remains in the boil for an hour. 

There is a list of other common acronyms in the wiki section: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...;showarticle=17

If you want your kit brews with higher bitterness you can try doing a boil and adding hops yourself. You can also look at some of the more bitter kits like Coopers IPA or doing a toucan (two kits or cans made up to a single batch volume - higher alcohol volume and higher bitterness)


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## shonks69 (24/2/10)

Screwtop said:


> During the last century and a bit old Australian beers changed much in the same way as beers across the world. As refrigeration became more readily available and less expensive ales became lagers. Why, well answering that question regarding almost any commercial decision in multiple choice format "If In Doubt Tick Cost". Less spoilage, lower ingredient cost, less hops required due to the clean lager fermentation characteristics, longer shelf life etc. Less colour, flavour and aroma, well........... maybe, but the marketing dept takes care of that spinning it any which-way to the masses.
> 
> Very few old brewery ales remain. Coopers brewery has largely remained true to ales, the goto recipes for the style would be AndrewQLD's recipes to be found in the recipe database
> 
> ...



Cheers Screwy

Do you have a recipe for VB? (old tastebuds die hard)
Cheers
Shonks


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## Screwtop (24/2/10)

shonks69 said:


> Cheers Screwy
> 
> Do you have a recipe for VB? (old tastebuds die hard)
> Cheers
> Shonks




No I don't shonks, but I have made the above with POR to the same IBU's and it was fairly popular with megaswill drinkers here. 

Cheers,

Screwy


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## Bribie G (24/2/10)

Substituting Superpride for the Cluster will give you a more 'VB' flavour straight away. In a 23 L batch, about 25g boiled for 90 mins, no late additions.


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## Pete2501 (24/2/10)

You guys are freaking me out. I know VB is considered beer and XXXX. But.. why? :lol:


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## Bribie G (24/2/10)

Have you ever lived or travelled overseas? If so you will appreciate that the likes of XXXX and VB actually stack up ok against many overseas brews, they are just a different style due to our malts and hops and sugar usage. Not all of us like orange cloudy ales hopped to the ridiculous with Cascade, some of us actually like a good Australian Lager - preferably one we have brewed ourselves. If we crack you up then I'm glad I've brought a smile into someone's life today


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## Pete2501 (24/2/10)

It looks like you've finished all your tasks for today Bribie you can go home early today.


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## Nick JD (24/2/10)

Does anyone know what the most likely candidate for yeasts is in the Carlton and Castlemaine breweries? 

I think as a homebrewer there's a challenge to accurately copy megaswill. My mates all say my beer is great ... "but it doesn't taste like bought stuff".

I'd like to show them I can make "bought stuff", but don't want to. 

The real kicker will be to serve my XXXX Gold ONLY mate a homebrew gold in the proper bottle and see if he picks it. I'm betting he will - but it'll be a fun task trying.


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## Bribie G (24/2/10)

Nick JD said:


> Does anyone know what the most likely candidate for yeasts is in the Carlton and Castlemaine breweries?
> 
> I think as a homebrewer there's a challenge to accurately copy megaswill. My mates all say my beer is great ... "but it doesn't taste like bought stuff".
> 
> ...



I don't know about XXXX but the Carlton Yeasts apparently came from Denmark (Carlsberg) early on in the piece. TidalPete has made a superb Aussie lager using Wyeast 2042. I've also had success with dried yeast S-189 as it ferments warmish. I think I recall Thirsty Boy, who works at CUB, saying that they start fermenting cold then let it gradually rise to the late teens before sending to the lagering tanks for 10 days. 

I made the following for a birthday party attended 100% by non brewers and they were more than happy with it as a commercial tasting brew:

4000 BB pale pilsener
300 Carapils 

67 degrees 90 mins

20 superpride 90 mins
2 plugs Hallertau Mittelfreuh 10 mins

750 dextrose

S-189 fermented at around 15 degrees for 10 days
lagered for 10 days at 3 degrees
further cold conditioned in keg for 10 days before serving. 





I did another version with a bit of crystal (the one on the right) and used two additions of Cluster XXX style but that might be a bit advanced for your mates  B)


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## shonks69 (25/2/10)

BribieG said:


> Have you ever lived or travelled overseas? If so you will appreciate that the likes of XXXX and VB actually stack up ok against many overseas brews, they are just a different style due to our malts and hops and sugar usage. Not all of us like orange cloudy ales hopped to the ridiculous with Cascade, some of us actually like a good Australian Lager - preferably one we have brewed ourselves. If we crack you up then I'm glad I've brought a smile into someone's life today




Good on ya BribeG and thanks for your advice Screwtop

I have been a dedicated consumer of VB for many years as it was the beer that my friends and myself grew up on. In my limited travels I have also been able to enjoy VB in every country I have visited (cant be that bad if it is internationally recognized).
My palate has evolved over the years to my home brew experience and the array of boutique beers available in Australia but it would be nice to have clone of my old school favorite as an everyday drinker.

Cheers
Shonks :chug:


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## Nick JD (25/2/10)

I used to buy XXXX in Sydney and people would hassle me for buying Qld beer while they sat there drinking VB ... in Sydney. "It tastes better" was my reply with a  . 

Probably something to do with the use of actual hops.

I found this on an American site where Yanks were asking for A VB recipe. It's quite funny (because it's true!):

_This is an excerpt from Homebrewers Digest #2498, 9/3/97.

From: Andy Walsh
Subject: for that hard, cold thirst, the beer is VIC!

Brian Travis asks about Victoria Bitter.
First, a little history.
Fosters Brewing make 3 standard lagers; Fosters Lager, Victoria Bitter
and Crown Lager (4 if you include Melbourne Bitter). For many years,
Fosters was the most popular of the 3, VB was barely advertised, and
Crown the expensive "premium" brand. To confuse matters, Australian
"Bitter" is not particularly bitter, and is not an ale either. It is
just a low-hopped lager, and the term "Bitter" was seized by marketers
to differentiate their product from all the other similar products (you
can only have so many bottle/can colours. Fosters is blue, VB green,
Melbourne Bitter red and Crown comes in a fancy gold-labelled bottle).

Then something happened. VB for some unknown reason steadily grew in
sales (despite an incredibly low advertising budget - the ads on TV now
are at least 20 years old and use the voice of an actor dead for some 15
years or so!) until now it commands some 40% of the entire Australian
beer market. Who says increasing advertising pays dividends?

Since I've surprised a few of the North American HBDers recently by
stating US Tettnang = Fuggle (thanks for some great detective work,
Jim!), I'll go out on a limb and surprise the Aussies by stating that
for all intents and purposes the 3 beers mentioned are the same too.
Fosters brew one stream from which all 3 derive, without boiling hops
(or minimal, solely to aid break formation), and use high gravity
techniques. Hops are added to the bright beer (post filtration) in the
form of a product called HPL6, an isomerised hop extract formed
originally from hops extracted with liquid CO2. No hop aroma exists in
any of them, and IBUs vary marginally from the 22 mark. All have the
same alcohol concentration of 4.9% (by volume). The aroma is best
described as "sewer" (ethyl mercaptan?), from the combination of high
temperature lager fermentation and yeast strain used.

Recipe for any of them:
-OG = 1.042 (or 1.060 if you want to high gravity brew for authenticity)
-FG = 1.006
-soft water
-30% sucrose
-2 row well-modified lager malt
-encourage fermentability via 63-65C rests with pH ~ 5.2 @ mash temp.
(no protein rest!)
-Step infusion mash.
-Fermentation - pitch at 14C, allow to rise up to 18C
-Choice of yeast critical. Fosters use their own strain. Some yeasts
won't ferment well with this much sucrose and will either stick and/or
produce truckloads of acetaldehyde. Try Wyeast Danish lager.
Addition of a yeast nutrient (nitrogen) is wise with so much sucrose
-22 IBU with pride of ringwood hops (any high alpha will do)
-no hop flavour or aroma
-No diacetyl.
-Serve so cold you can't taste how vile it really is, and don't forget
to hold your nose...

One world...one hop...one yeast...one malt...one beer...

Andy (Cantillon-is-just-Coopers-made-in-a-dirty-fermenter) Walsh.

PS. Beer trivia - the Fosters brothers were American, and returned to
New York after just 1 year. (gee, thanks for the legacy!)
PPS. I would really try and discourage homebrewers from attempting to
make this kind of beer. _


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## BjornJ (25/2/10)

BribieG said:


> I don't know about XXXX but the Carlton Yeasts apparently came from Denmark (Carlsberg) early on in the piece. TidalPete has made a superb Aussie lager using Wyeast 2042. I've also had success with dried yeast S-189 as it ferments warmish. I think I recall Thirsty Boy, who works at CUB, saying that they start fermenting cold then let it gradually rise to the late teens before sending to the lagering tanks for 10 days.
> 
> I made the following for a birthday party attended 100% by non brewers and they were more than happy with it as a commercial tasting brew:
> 
> ...



BribieG,
do you think it would be possible to do a mexican beer like that as well? Maybe even in Corona bottles?

 


(come on, you know you want to post it... )


Bjorn


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## manticle (25/2/10)

Pete2501 said:


> You guys are freaking me out. I know VB is considered beer and XXXX. But.. why? :lol:



Not a big fan of VB but full strength xxxx and Melbourne bitter go down well on a hot day, after a work day or at a barbecue with mates.

I can drink Westmalle AND Carlton Draught


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## robv (25/2/10)

BribieG said:


> Have you ever lived or travelled overseas? If so you will appreciate that the likes of XXXX and VB actually stack up ok against many overseas brews, they are just a different style due to our malts and hops and sugar usage. Not all of us like orange cloudy ales hopped to the ridiculous with Cascade, some of us actually like a good Australian Lager - preferably one we have brewed ourselves. If we crack you up then I'm glad I've brought a smile into someone's life today




Hi BribieG
Having lived and travelled overseas most of my life IMHO I dont think I have come across many brews as bad as VB - even in so called third world countries, XXXX is not much better.

Cheers
Rob


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## Batz (25/2/10)

Robv said:


> Hi BribieG
> Having lived and travelled overseas most of my life IMHO I dont think I have come across many brews as bad as VB - even in so called third world countries, XXXX is not much better.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



You have either not drank as many overseas beers as me or not visited the same countries. :unsure: 


Batz


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## shonks69 (26/2/10)

Batz said:


> You have either not drank as many overseas beers as me or not visited the same countries. :unsure:
> 
> 
> Batz




VB over XXXX anyday but each to their own
VB beer adds are the best (except for the pop up pup)

Cheers
Shonks


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## pbrosnan (26/2/10)

Batz said:


> You have either not drank as many overseas beers as me or not visited the same countries. :unsure:
> 
> 
> Batz


Most of us don't go OS looking for bad beers to try. I've tried quite a few English beers that have been pretty average but still better that mainstream Australian beers. The US mainstream is terrible as well but their craft/micro tier more than compensates. Europe probably has the best quality mainstream beers IMHO.


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## Nick JD (27/2/10)

It's 40 degrees C and 6pm. In the esky is a six pack of XXXX Bitter and a six pack of Guinness ... which one do you reach for?


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## jbowers (27/2/10)

Nick JD said:


> It's 40 degrees C and 6pm. In the esky is a six pack of XXXX Bitter and a six pack of Guinness ... which one do you reach for?



Something better that you brewed yourself?


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## Batz (27/2/10)

pbrosnan said:


> Most of us don't go OS looking for bad beers to try.




Quite true, I however find it difficult to tell a good or bad beer by looking at the bottle. Therefore I try many beers when overseas, this is something I really look forward too and enjoy immensely, a proportion of these beer I classify as bad beers.

Batz


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## Batz (27/2/10)

Back on subject I make a very nice Aussie Beer, this I have on tap at my bar most of the time. It's a nice way to introduce (I don't like home brew) drinkers to your wares.
More than happy to share the recipe if anyone wants it.

Batz


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## AndrewQLD (27/2/10)

Batz said:


> Back on subject I make a very nice Aussie Beer, this I have on tap at my bar most of the time. It's a nice way to introduce (I don't like home brew) drinkers to your wares.
> More than happy to share the recipe if anyone wants it.
> 
> Batz




Highly recommend Batz' Aussie Ale, it's a really easy drinking beer. Hope that's on tap at the moment Batz.

Andrew


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## Batz (27/2/10)

AndrewQLD said:


> Highly recommend Batz' Aussie Ale, it's a really easy drinking beer. Hope that's on tap at the moment Batz.
> 
> Andrew




Went on tap this morning ready for the KinKinFest Andrew, I couldn't have a night without Far Kin Ale on tap :icon_cheers:

I must say that Tidalpetes Aussie Lager is the next Aussie I'm going to brew, I beleive it's the best I've ever had....better than Far Kin Ale?...Well I'm brewing it next !  

Batz


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## Bribie G (27/2/10)

+1, and he used that Wyeast Danish. I note that the Danish is also mentioned in the somewhat cynical piece quoted in the earlier post, so that might be a good choice.


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## manticle (27/2/10)

Batz said:


> More than happy to share the recipe if anyone wants it.
> 
> Batz



Wouldn't mind having a go at something like that - again a good intro for mates.


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## Batz (27/2/10)

manticle said:


> Wouldn't mind having a go at something like that - again a good intro for mates.




Amount Item Type % or IBU 
3.75 kg BB Galaxy Pale Malt (1.5 SRM) Grain 72.82 % 
1.00 kg BB Ale Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 19.42 % 
0.20 kg BB Wheat Malt (1.0 SRM) Grain 3.88 % 
25.00 gm Pride of Ringwood [9.00 %] (60 min) Hops 23.3 IBU 
1.22 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc 
0.20 kg Cane (Beet) Sugar (0.0 SRM) Sugar 3.88 % 
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale 



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.054 SG 
Est Final Gravity: 1.013 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.005 SG 
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.34 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 0.65 % 
Bitterness: 23.3 IBU Calories: 90 cal/l 
Est Color: 3.3 SRM : Color


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## manticle (27/2/10)

Cheers.


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## Nick JD (27/2/10)

Offer your megaswill mates three beers with any random malt profiles; hop two of them late and leave the third one with only a single 60+ minute addition.

Watch which one they go for after a few. 

Not everyone likes fruit salad beer - I do, but I can't blame them. 

I'm sure there's a condition I'd like to call, "Homebrewer's Uncontrollable Enthusiasm". This condition comes about from buying new and undiscovered hops, opening the packet and deciding there and then that they must add them in large and frequent amounts. 

After a while this becomes the norm and their megaswill mates truely believe they should probably bring around wine coolers for their homebrewer friend because his beer tastes like canned peaches. 

I'm loving leaving hops out ATM. Just for bittering. Beer tastes like barley not flowers.


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## fraser_john (27/2/10)

Surprised Tony has not chimed in, but his aussie ale is good, basic, but good. Ale malt, wheat malt, POR & US05. It's on the recipe DB.


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## manticle (27/2/10)

Nick JD said:


> Offer your megaswill mates three beers with any random malt profiles; hop two of them late and leave the third one with only a single 60+ minute addition.
> 
> Watch which one they go for after a few.
> 
> ...



Most of the beers I like to drink and to brew don't require excessive amounts of hopping. I like English and Belgian ales particularly and when I make something English I usually use only a single bittering addition.

I've enjoyed some of the hoppier beers I've tasted but I'm generally more a fan of malt driven styles.


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## Bribie G (27/2/10)

Well said Nick

I've long been an opponent of the orange cloudy 120 IBU substance that passes for beer. To a great extent home brewing has been hijacked by the American/German/Belgian axis where more dunkel and more trappist and more Cascade is better. Fortunately UK Bitters and milds have provided a bit of a check to this process, especially the TTL fad of late which has dragged many brewers back to the idea that 35 IBU is actually quite acceptable. However 99 percent of the World's beer is a pleasant grainy pale pilsener, nicely fragrantly hopped to around 20 IBU and just the job to slake a thirst on a hot afternoon in Greece or Manila or Bribie Island. And nothing wrong with brewing such a beer if you enjoy it, as I do and have always done.


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## manticle (27/2/10)

BribieG said:


> Well said Nick
> 
> I've long been an opponent of the orange cloudy 120 IBU substance that passes for beer. To a great extent home brewing has been hijacked by the American/German/Belgian axis where more dunkel and more trappist and more Cascade is better. Fortunately UK Bitters and milds have provided a bit of a check to this process, especially the TTL fad of late which has dragged many brewers back to the idea that 35 IBU is actually quite acceptable. However 99 percent of the World's beer is a pleasant grainy pale pilsener, nicely fragrantly hopped to around 20 IBU and just the job to slake a thirst on a hot afternoon in Greece or Manila or Bribie Island. And nothing wrong with brewing such a beer if you enjoy it, as I do and have always done.



Most German and Belgian ales aren't overhopped either Bribie. Also UK brewing is partially to blame for the excessive hopping schedules of American beers (India Pale ale particularly).


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## Tony (27/2/10)

fraser_john said:


> Surprised Tony has not chimed in, but his aussie ale is good, basic, but good. Ale malt, wheat malt, POR & US05. It's on the recipe DB.



Thanks mate.

Yeah i think the hallmark feature of making an AUSSIE beer it to keep it simple!

It can have flavour, aroma, all that but should be simple.

cheers


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## Pete2501 (27/2/10)

manticle said:


> Most German and Belgian ales aren't overhopped either Bribie. Also UK brewing is partially to blame for the excessive hopping schedules of American beers (India Pale ale particularly).



English IPA's aren't what they used to be though. They seem to be all mid strength beers.


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## jyo (27/2/10)

Trying my first "Aussie" fake lager tomorrow.

4.5kg BB galaxy ale malt
500gms boiled rice in mash

25 gms POR for 60min
25 gms POR at flameout (chill over 3 hours or overnight)
US05

I'm keeping this simple as.

I have never used POR and I WILL refrain from dry hopping, as much as know that I want to.
Cheers to Bribie for advice :icon_cheers:


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## waggastew (27/2/10)

Just thought I would add to the debate about how Aussie beers stack up against the rest of the world.

About 10 years ago I was sent to the New York with 2 other Aussies to set up an office of our company. Initially we were very excited about the relatively cheap Euro lagers and American boutiques. After about 4 months however we grew weary and began to get sentimental about what we grew up on. The solution was a 30can slab of VB imported from a mob in WA for Oz day celebrations. Something like AUD $8 a can (about the same as buying a beer in a pub in the US) but worth every penny. Was nice to drink something genuinely bitter, even if it was mass produced etc. Euro/US stuff gets very sweet and bland very quickly!

Now we are all back in OZ and drinking Euro/US stuff on a Saturday night so go figure???? Maybe its the forbidden fruit/what you can't get??????


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## manticle (27/2/10)

Pete2501 said:


> English IPA's aren't what they used to be though. They seem to be all mid strength beers.



Yes but the point is that it's Bribie's fault.

Completely.


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## rendo (27/2/10)

I cant help it...I have to confess:

VB on tap = fantastic beer!!! (shoot me down....dont care)
VB in a bottle = well...if its hot and I want a beer..ok
VB in a can = I'd rather have water or nothing

its a love/hate thing.



Pete2501 said:


> You guys are freaking me out. I know VB is considered beer and XXXX. But.. why? :lol:


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## pbrosnan (27/2/10)

BribieG said:


> Well said Nick
> 
> I've long been an opponent of the orange cloudy 120 IBU substance that passes for beer. To a great extent home brewing has been hijacked by the American/German/Belgian axis where more dunkel and more trappist and more Cascade is better. Fortunately UK Bitters and milds have provided a bit of a check to this process, especially the TTL fad of late which has dragged many brewers back to the idea that 35 IBU is actually quite acceptable. However 99 percent of the World's beer is a pleasant grainy pale pilsener, nicely fragrantly hopped to around 20 IBU and just the job to slake a thirst on a hot afternoon in Greece or Manila or Bribie Island. And nothing wrong with brewing such a beer if you enjoy it, as I do and have always done.


Yes, well probably a bit of confirmation bias creeping in there. The current dominance of US and Belgium styles is the boon of our beer drinking generation. Simply put, these two countries have rewritten (or perhaps revived) the book when it comes to beer. The watery, weak, flavourless liquid that passes for the majority of UK and German/Euro beers these days may trap the young player but if you've been at it for a while then a fancy name and label do not a good beer make. Agreed that under the right conditions the aforementioned liquid will do the job but to dismiss the fruits of the current US and Belgium brewing renaissance is to miss the point. What is better, Well's Bombardier or SNPA? Why both of course.


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## bum (28/2/10)

BribieG said:


> To a great extent home brewing has been hijacked by the American/German/Belgian axis where more dunkel and more trappist and more Cascade is better...However 99 percent of the World's beer is a pleasant grainy pale pilsener, nicely fragrantly hopped to around 20 IBU



Surely the reason for the first lies in the second?


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## Pete2501 (28/2/10)

manticle said:


> Yes but the point is that it's Bribie's fault.
> 
> Completely.




:lol: 



rendo said:


> I cant help it...I have to confess:
> 
> VB on tap = fantastic beer!!! (shoot me down....dont care)
> VB in a bottle = well...if its hot and I want a beer..ok
> ...



I feel yah. I'll drink VB from the tap quit happily at the bowls club.


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## goomboogo (28/2/10)

waggastew said:


> The solution was a 30can slab of VB imported from a mob in WA for Oz day celebrations. Something like AUD $8 a can (about the same as buying a beer in a pub in the US) but worth every penny. Was nice to drink something genuinely bitter, even if it was mass produced etc. Euro/US stuff gets very sweet and bland very quickly!
> 
> I'm surprised you would find VB genuinely bitter. Even taking into account the light body and considerable adjunct quantity, a beer in the range of 18-20 ibu isn't all that bitter. I wonder if the particular fermentation characteristic of this beer gives some people the perception of bitterness.


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## Batz (28/2/10)

jyo said:


> Trying my first "Aussie" fake lager tomorrow.
> 
> 4.5kg BB galaxy ale malt
> 500gms boiled rice in mash
> ...




You possiably have already brew this jyo, but if you want a close to Aussie lager drop the flame out addition, POR with not suit this.

Batz


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## Bribie G (28/2/10)

TB once said that the yeast strains used at CUB tend to give a metallic 'twang' , which I can relate to. Also I'm not sure what the IBU of VB is, they obviously squirt a bit more isohop in than Carlton Draught or Fosters on the way to the packing line.


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## Bribie G (28/2/10)

Batz said:


> You possiably have already brew this jyo, but if you want a close to Aussie lager drop the flame out addition, POR with not suit this.
> 
> Batz



+1. However a related hop which, according to some (FourStar etc) is a good late hopper is Superpride. Higher AA so go careful, say 20g 90 mins and 15g flameout.


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## Siborg (28/2/10)

rendo said:


> I cant help it...I have to confess:
> 
> VB on tap = fantastic beer!!! (shoot me down....dont care)
> VB in a bottle = well...if its hot and I want a beer..ok
> ...


VB for free = I'll drink it
VB if its hot and there's nothing else near by - I'll drink it
VB for $5 a drink... I'll pay the extra $3-4 and get something better.


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## Siborg (28/2/10)

Batz said:


> Amount Item Type % or IBU
> 3.75 kg BB Galaxy Pale Malt (1.5 SRM) Grain 72.82 %
> 1.00 kg BB Ale Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 19.42 %
> 0.20 kg BB Wheat Malt (1.0 SRM) Grain 3.88 %
> ...



Some interesting recipes here. Would be great to try some.

Batz, do you have a partial version of the above recipe?


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## Batz (28/2/10)

Siborg said:


> Some interesting recipes here. Would be great to try some.
> 
> Batz, do you have a partial version of the above recipe?




I don't but it wouldn't be hard to knock one up.

I'll use the same recipe next time but copy Tidalpetes lead and brew it as a lager using Wyeast Danish.

Batz


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## jyo (28/2/10)

Batz said:


> You possiably have already brew this jyo, but if you want a close to Aussie lager drop the flame out addition, POR with not suit this.
> 
> Batz



Mashing right now mate. 
What do you think, Saaz? This is what Bribie suggested, but funds would not allow an extra bag of hops.
I have POR, Styrian, Centennial, Cascade, Simcoe, Amarillo and some home grown Chinook in the freezer....probably way off with all of these though.


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## stevem01 (28/2/10)

I'm a bit confused from this discussion, assuming starting with 3.5-4Kg of base malt, some are adding 500g rice (presumably to thin the beer out?) some are adding Wheat (presumably to add body?)

Which one is it? are these opposing objectives or maybe a bit of both? 
or just stick to the base malt for a middle ground?


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## jyo (28/2/10)

stevem01 said:


> I'm a bit confused from this discussion, assuming starting with 3.5-4Kg of base malt, some are adding 500g rice (presumably to thin the beer out?) some are adding Wheat (presumably to add body?)
> 
> Which one is it? are these opposing objectives or maybe a bit of both?
> or just stick to the base malt for a middle ground?



1st time I've tried rice , Steve. From what I've read, rice will give you a dry beer, whilst maintaining smoothness. 
Someone with experience may chime in and give extra info.
Cheers, John.
Just took a peek at the temp in the esky, and it smells nice. :icon_cheers:


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## adam (28/2/10)

BribieG said:


> I don't know about XXXX but the Carlton Yeasts apparently came from Denmark (Carlsberg) early on in the piece. TidalPete has made a superb Aussie lager using Wyeast 2042. I've also had success with dried yeast S-189 as it ferments warmish. I think I recall Thirsty Boy, who works at CUB, saying that they start fermenting cold then let it gradually rise to the late teens before sending to the lagering tanks for 10 days.
> 
> FYI. When I did the tour of the xxxx brewery a few years ago, the guide mentioned that the original brewer was Danish and that he used a yeast from Denmark which is still used to this day.


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## TeeTwo (2/3/10)

kevin01041961 said:


> Hi gents well a "pom" wanting some help and i dont mean with the cricket or the rugby  , but with some ne recipes ones i havnt tried and from down under.
> I have been brewing 20 yrs and now do 10 gallon batches one to condition and one 5 gallon that shall we say never gets the chance :beerbang:
> so if you have some ideas and maybe i have some you lads & of course lasses havnt tried
> 
> "Cheers" :icon_chickcheers:




I use kits here in dear old OZ Coopers, Cascade, Tooheys and Supermarket brands. Mostly Aussie beer is a light Larger/ Draught style. I like the darker varieties but most Aussies prefer the lighter ones. I have found that a Tooheys special draught or a Coopers Pale ale is comparable with what comes out of the pumps. The kits use yeasts that are tollerent of the heat we get and brew in.

My method is I ferment 1 week secondary 2 weeks bottle and condition for 3 weeks min. I use a kilo of Dextrose instead of Cane sugar in the ferment. When bottling I add a measured amount of cane sugar not bulk prime. Always have. The sugar seems to give better carbination. I have started to add the strained water of 50grms of steeped grains in a small quantity of boiled water and a cup of powdered corn syrup to add body for head retention.

One supermarket brand "Coles" Draught comes out like VB


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## WSC (12/3/10)

Been thinking about what an Aussie beer is/should be and the best style.

Other than POR what other hops are uniquely Aussie? That is only grown here?

I'm thinking my take on aussie beer (not what we currently brew but what we should brew) is:

Saison yeast - ferments at high temps well (lagers don't make sense in our climate)
Pale in colour
medium bitterness 30 IBU
4-5% Abv
Easy drinking and goes OK served cold, that is still has good flavour
Unique aussie hop like POR or other unique varieties.

Bit OT but what do you think?


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## WSC (12/3/10)

WSC said:


> Been thinking about what an Aussie beer is/should be and the best style.
> 
> Other than POR what other hops are uniquely Aussie? That is only grown here?
> 
> ...




Seems Galaxy and Cluster hops are two others I found on the interweb.


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