# Coopers European Lager, Danstar Nottingham Yeast



## lobe (5/12/11)

G'day,

Just a quickie after searching through the threads.

A newbie and on my 2nd brew. Tried the coopers euro lager although wasn't too keen on the fermentation period & the 12wks in the bottle. Danstar Nottingham yeast was highly recommended to bring the time down by the HBS instead of using the kit yeast. 

I used some LDME enhancer #3 in the wort. Using the bath, ice pack trick to keep the temp down, with a wet dark towel around it resulting in a temp of about 18-20c initially for first 1-2 days, although more recent checks lead me to believe its been sitting about 16-18c thereafter.

On the 9th day now and a quick check with the hydrometer gave a reading of about 1018 and hence a smidge (4-5mm) under the green line level - beer on the h/meter.
I think OG was 1040. 

Q) Any ideas on whether i should bring the temp up a little as think they HBS said if i could get the thing down to 21c i should be ok with the coopers euro ???

I never asked ref the temp i have achieved using the bath method being lower. When the FV was out of the bath to take the sample, airlock activity did seem to pick up (read the newbie info regarding not trusting a/lock activity as a given etc)

From what i can gather, the colder temp might extend the ferm/time out a little. Was thinking of just taking reading for 2 more consecutive days to see if its stable etc.

Any comments/help/info would be appreciated

Thanks
Lobe


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## Brewman_ (5/12/11)

Hi Lobe,
Welcome to AHB.

I personally would not use Nottingham in this beer, but wait and see how it turns out. The yeast should give very fast fermentation with high attenuation, meaning it should provide a loh FG, Final Gravity, and in some ways I think that is what you are after. But at 9 days that should be all over and done with Nottingham? Was the yeast is a yellowish packet, branded with Nottingham?

Your right that colder temps will extend fermentation but 18deg.c is not really cold even for that Ale yeast. Your current specific gravity sounds too high for 9 days. Do you know what was in the enhancer #3 you used?.

What I suggest is leave the temp where it is, and take a sample of the beer into you hrdrometer tub and place your hydrometer in it and place it in a warm spot - not hot say 24 to 25 Deg.C. This will test how far the yeast will go in terms of final gravity for this brew. Monitor it for 2 to 3 days and see how far it drops. This should give you a very good idea of your expected FG.

Bottom line, lagers do take time, not sure Nottingham will give you what your after.

Fear_n_Loath


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## J Grimmer (5/12/11)

Some info for you about nottingham, http://www.danstaryeast.com/products/nottingham-ale-yeast. Warming up the beer as suggested by fear n loathing, may wake up some of the sleepy yeast. on the plus side your temp range does sound about right for that yeast.


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## Diesel80 (5/12/11)

My last two brews have used this yeast.

Both times fermentation done in 4 days. It is a serious animal yeast.

Did you rehydrate the yeast at 28-30 degrees in sterilised (cool boiled water) as per back of packet?

I ferment at 17 degrees with it too, although i start it in fridge about 24 and cool it from there.

Cheers,
D80


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (5/12/11)

I've had notto down to 9 degrees and had full attenuation.

It's the closest thing to a lager yeast, and even at 14 deg, throws basically no fruit.

Great yeast, really is.

Goomba


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## lobe (5/12/11)

G'day,

Update :-

I've just taken another hydrometer sample and have a more accurate reading, as i took abit more care, time to settle, remove froth etc. The reading is i would say 1010 - 1011 to the bottom of the meniscus.
Still not quite to the green mark which starts at about 1006 on the h/meter.

I'll leave the h/m in the sampling tube/vessel in about 21'c and check it when i get home after work, as per fear n loaths recommendations - should i seal the top off or just leave it exposed to the air ???

Thanks for the very prompt replies and informative info. Much appreciated.

If anyone adds any further posts and i don't reply further, i've gone to bed/full of man cold 


Re: some of the posts/questions:-

* Yep the yeast was in a white / yellowish packet as mentioned, def branded with Danstar, Nottingham and (L'allemand in red)
* I didn't rehydrate the yeast on the HBS recommendations. Did abit of research prior to brewing on here, some rehydrate, some didn't.
* The enhancer was LDME #3 , maltose and dextrose i think, not sure.


Thanks again,

Lobe


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## bignath (6/12/11)

******* hell, a newb that has done his homework and then some...

Welcome fella to the kick ass world of beer. Its a breath of fresh air to see someone with their head around this brewing caper so early on. Such a far cry from where i started. Youve pretty much done a textbook brew taking into account temp control and all that. 

Your ferment temp of around 18 is fine for that yeast, and if you liked could do a bit of a diacetyl rest if you like. May not require it but it is a good practise to get into just in case. I say that because for the last couple of brews i've picked up some diacetyl in recipies ive brewed loads of times before and havent needed to do one. Taste good in the fermenter but then it starts to show up later, more so in my kegged versions. So now i try and do a rest to minimise the chances of it again. Simple really, just let the fermenter heat up a few degrees as it nears or has ended fermentation. This helps the little yeasties pick up the mess they've flung 'around their room'. Its a bit like my kids and their bedrooms sometimes....

Its good advice about shortening the fermentation lenght with this yeast. Notto' is often done and dusted inside four days for many brewers (myself included). The yeast supplied with the euro lager is a true lager yeast that will take ages to do its stuff. Not just because of the strain of yeast, but its also a massive underpitch using that coopers packet.

Youve done well dude, let us know how the beer turns out!


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## lobe (6/12/11)

G'day,

Tuesday Update :-


After leaving the h/m in the sampling tube/vessel in about 21'c overnight and check it when i get home after work at 6pm, the reading has moved a tad. Probably more like 1010.

A quick taste test, cannot taste any b/scotch popcorn flavours meaning diacetyl. It tastes pretty good actually, apart from being flat & at room temp !

Q) - Might just give it a few hrs or maybe a day at abit higher temp, say 19-21 & hence abit of a d/rest, even though i cant taste any diacetyl ( my house temp is pretty stable etc until we've had a few days of 30 odd + etc ) then bottle it then leave a room temp in the house. Any ideas ?

I do have the methods to keep the bottles abit cooler, in an esky etc.

P.S - Thanks for all the input people, much appreciated.


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## bignath (6/12/11)

Doing a good job mate!

Dont worry about keeping bottles conditionng cool, room temp is a good idea. There is some opinion that points to carbing being done at basically the temp the beer was fermented at but i dont bother about it. I just leave my bottled stock in a spare room for a week or two. Throw one in the fridge and check at 1 week, if its carbed, throw more in the fridge. Thats for AG though in which case can be drunk sooner than extract brews which need more time to condition. 

Yes its 'best practice' to leave them longer, but im not making the most complex brews....most of mine are drinking bloody well at 10 days.


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## lobe (14/1/12)

G'day

*** Update ***.


Initially, i sampled a couple just after a week in the bottle. Not bad but a v slight cider/vinegar/sour aftertaste.

Had a previous batch to drink so left this one a little longer.

Last Friday i tried a couple of bottles. Unbelievable. Better than most lagers I have bought (after about 3 weeks in the bottle). I am not saying this to talk myself up but more to the point of what a fantastic lager/beer you can make yourself for very little initial cost outlay for equipment, a little time spent reading up on things and not to mention the price of each brew. I was amazed. Better than my 1st Coopers lager kit brew.

I had the euro brew in some Oettinger bottles and a few mates just assumed they where that. They were looking on the label and reading the German purity statement and brewed in Germany etc.
I let em drink it and then told them what it was.

I am very impressed with this h/brewing caper and i am sold. The advice from Beerbelly, Adelaide was great (Danstar yeast) and for that i am grateful. Also the Coopers European lager kit, resulted in a nice drop of home brew so credit to the Coopers people too. Although a last resort now, I know i will struggle to buy beers in future from Dan Murphys et al at around $40-50 a case, when i can make it with a little time and effort.

Thanks to all the people that replied and helped me out too.

Got another euro brew on the go now seeing as though the current weather is conducive, to the cooler temps req'd.

Thanks again

Lobe


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