# Starting an Electric Brew control panel for AG brewing



## sjp770 (24/6/14)

So I've started down the long road of starting up an All Grain brewery and I'm the sort of person that HAS to go electric. So what will follow is a list of the parts I've bought. I will update with prices and places bought at a later date. This will be closely based on theelectricbrewery.com

From Ebay:
3x SESTOS D1SR-220 PIDs http://m.ebay.com/itm/321329630539
2x SSR's http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/331212781869
6x Two position panel switches
1x Three position panel switch
1x Two position key panel switch
1x 50A 75mA shunt

From Auberins.com

1 x Liquid Tight RTD Sensor, 2” Probe, Weldless Fitting (PT100-L50M14) $46.95
Cable Option 8 ft Braided Cable with mating connector/cable
3 x Panel mount connector for RTD sensor (RTDCON) = $11.25
2 x Liquid tight RTD sensor, 2 in, 1/4 NPT Thread (PT100-L50NPT) = $87.10
Cable Option 8 ft Braided Cable with mating connector/cable
1 x Timer for Beer Brewing, Multi-Events (JSL-73B) = $42.32

Need to buy the three relays, enclosure, lights, volt and ammeter, alarm and sockets. Past that I have the elements and some more plumbing and pumps.


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## Camo6 (24/6/14)

I saw a couple of pt100's for sale on here this morning. 1/2" NPT though, but to me these are more compatible if you're using 1/2" fittings in the system. The price was reasonable considering the conversion and postage rates.

If you do buy a sensor from Auber's with the deluxe cable you will get the panel mount included, or at least I did.

Do those Sestos PIDs have ramp/soak capabilities? I made sure my mash PID was an Auber 2352P purely for programmable step mashing so I didn't need to hang around during the mash.

Good luck with the build, sounds great. I enjoyed putting mine together and learned a heap doing it. Swore a heap doing it too!


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## sjp770 (24/6/14)

Everything in the list above has been paid for so the 1/4 is what I'll have to deal with. They are just as per recommendations from the electric brewery site.

i wasn't sure if the panel side of the connector came with the cable so that's why I grabbed the connectors seperately.
the SESTOS PIDs don't have the ramp I think but I won't be leaving the brews unattended for a long while, and if and when I do I'll sell the SESTOS on here and grab the auber P model then.

i have a PT100 stainless probe here already but the cable is short and the probe is long. I figure I would just go with the right ones for the job. 

So far on the equipment side I have three kegs I cut open myself and the following hardware for them:

Blichmann: temp probe (weldless), 2x ball valves
the other parts are the screen for the bottom of the mashtun and fittings for that, 2x weldless bulkheads, 4m of silicone tube, 2x barb fittings. I also have some star San and keg grease on the way.

oh, and the kicker is I've never brewed before. I always jump in the deep end and try to master a hobby at the complex level first. I like to read and research ALOT so I tend to get really involved and try to skip the first few steps of a hobby and go straight to where I want to be in the end. It's worked for me in the past so here we go! 

The idea of starting this is to get good quality beer cheaper so I can still enjoy a craft beer on a low end budget. Right now I can kind of spare the cash to get setup, but in 3 months my life will change with my first child so there will be lots of changes but one of the few downsides is losing an income.


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## sjp770 (25/6/14)

Grabbed the Relays and indicator lights just then, also the terminal strips. Ened up going for the recommended volt and ammeter as its clear and easy to read from across the room. I wont be doing separate power supplies though unless im told why.

Seems strange I cant update the original post though.. is there a limit to how many times you can edit a post?


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## sjp770 (25/6/14)

More purchases today:

From eBay

20x Quick Blow Glass Tube Fuses 250V 7A 5 x 20mm DF006 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270790388404 AU $2.99
5 x PCB Panel Mount Fuse Holder AC250V 10A for 5 x 20mm http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161341635371 AU $2.67
AC 220V LED Pilot Indicator Signal Lamp Black Blue http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290913976365 AU $3.73
3 1/2 Blue LED Digital AMP Panel Meter + Shunt AC 50A http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370412412396 AU $25.57
3 1/2 Blue LED Digital Volt Panel Meter AC 700V http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370412413897 AU $18.18
Round Red Cap 6P Terminal DPST Momentary Push Button Switch AC 220V http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161342158983 AU $3.96
2x Green LED Accident Indicator Pilot Light Lamp AC 220V http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111367509449 AU $4.26 ea.
AC 220V 22mm Panel Mount LED Power Indicator Pilot Signal Light Lamp Red http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161240463910 AU $1.81
2pcs 220V 240V 22mm Flash Light Red LED Active Buzzer Beep Indicator AD16-22SM http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110943667649 AU $4.99
2x Thread Connection Yellow LED Signal Indicator Pilot Light AC220V http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400729386114 AU $4.57 ea.


From Aliexpress

2x (1)10 Position/Pole 20 Hole Screw Terminal Blocks Covered Barrier Strip 600V 15A
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6133682594.html
Usd $0.90 ea

3x 220VAC 80A DPDT Power Relay Motor Control Screw Mount
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6133682595.html
US $9.50 ea
updated link
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220VAC-80A-DPDT-Power-Relay-Motor-Control-Screw-Mount/1482936491.html


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## jonnir (25/6/14)

Looking good mate!


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## sjp770 (25/6/14)

Cheers. I'll go back and add prices on the res at some stage.. Oh wait I can't. I'll merge everything into one post and start an actual build log when I get all the bits together.


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## Burt de Ernie (25/6/14)

What is the anticipated cost of this thing?


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## sjp770 (25/6/14)

Lol, anticipated! That's one thing this build was not! I've been looking for the cheapest parts and grabbing what I need. I made some mistakes with heating elements and now have two I can't use but I've tried to be careful with this. I will get a full Bill of Materials up when I'm done, this won't include freight though. I think I'm within $200 of the end, excluding heating. The main thing I need now is the enclosure. I do know that they sell it for $1400 or so.


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## mofox1 (25/6/14)

Burt de Ernie said:


> What is the anticipated cost of this thing?


Haha... No. Don't answer!

I'm fairly certain I shouldn't have kept a tally on mine... I'm past 1500 excluding tools and misc stuff I can say I will use elsewhere (but probably won't). And I'm not even doing the full control thingy.

It's a hobby you love, and you can't put a price on love. Unless you need to sell it, and then you make sure you get as much as you can. 

Mick


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## seehuusen (25/6/14)

Yep, totally understand the need to home brew once a little one comes into play hahaha even the "start at deep end" part! I had my first kid 4 months ago.
It was most definitely what pushed me into AG.
QLDKev gave me a heap of pointers to design an all electric brewery, but I'm about to buy a house, and will stick with gas until then. I like gas for its brute force, but as a software engineer, I like the programmability of electric... I might yet do a PID controlled HERMS 
Will follow your build for sure, remember pictures 

Good luck,
Martin


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## rockeye84 (25/6/14)

Hi Mate,

I spent approx. $600 building my panel, it was the most fun part too, putting it together & testing etc. 
All the stainless/pots, pumps, fittings, elements, chiller, silicon hose added quickly to about $2.5k for a 50L setup. That hurt the back pocket a bit. No regrets tho!



sjp770 said:


> Ened up going for the recommended volt and ammeter as its clear and easy to read from across the room. I wont be doing separate power supplies though unless im told why.


The amp & volt meters can't have common power, the power feeds have to be separate(two power supplies) or isolated, if they are not isolated the amp meter will blow up or not read true, guaranteed. I ended using one 240v/5v supply but on the 5v power feed to the amp meter I installed a power isolation module to separate the two power feeds, thus eliminating the need for two power supplies.

I got all the gear for my panel from a local electrical supplier, jaycar & ebay, pretty similar to the gear you have listed sestos etc. I stole the basic idea to build my panel from theelectricbrewery.com (like you lol), my panel looks very similar but wired it to my own specs and to run off a 15a aussie socket, streamlined it a bit & eliminated unnecessary crap/wiring, but its 100% safe and works a treat. Ive done +30 batches so far & my panel hasn't missed a beat. 

Here's a link to the module you will need if you plan to install amp/volt meters with common power.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/B0505S-1W-DC-DC-5V-To-5V-Isolation-Power-Module-Converter-1000VDC-SIP-4-/111364127628?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19edd1bb8c
This is a 5v version they are available in 12v depends what you meters run on.

If you need any more info or pics or whatever.. Feel free..


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## sjp770 (25/6/14)

rockeye84 said:


> I blew up my amp meter by having both my amp and volt meters powered by the same 240v-to-5v supply. They can't have common earth, or the amp meter will blow or not work guaranteed. I ended using one 240v/5v supply but on the 5v power feed to the amp meter I installed a blocking diode device to separate the to power feeds, thus eliminating the need for two power supplies. I got most of my gear from ebay & jaycar and the kind fellow from Korea/ebay that supplied my meters also supplied the blocking diode device. I stole the basic idea from the electricbrewery.com, my panel looks very similar but wired it to my own specs. Ive done +30 batches so far & my panel hasn't missed a beat. If you need any more info.. Feel free..


Great tip man  i'll wire a DC power pack to a terminal strip and solder in appropriate diodes on the -ve leg. or was it on the pos?



seehuusen said:


> Yep, totally understand the need to home brew once a little one comes into play hahaha even the "start at deep end" part! I had my first kid 4 months ago.
> It was most definitely what pushed me into AG.
> QLDKev gave me a heap of pointers to design an all electric brewery, but I'm about to buy a house, and will stick with gas until then. I like gas for its brute force, but as a software engineer, I like the programmability of electric... I might yet do a PID controlled HERMS
> Will follow your build for sure, remember pictures
> ...


QLDKev gave me the inspiration.  I ruined an extract brew once and was turned off completely. Dont think it was my fault though... mate forgot to pass the hops.



mofox1 said:


> Haha... No. Don't answer!
> 
> I'm fairly certain I shouldn't have kept a tally on mine... I'm past 1500 excluding tools and misc stuff I can say I will use elsewhere (but probably won't). And I'm not even doing the full control thingy.
> 
> ...


i'll get a shock when I total it up, but I want a list with links so others can copy easliy.


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## rockeye84 (26/6/14)

Ive since edited the post, there is a link to the ebay item i used, its not a diode, its a power isolation module.


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## mofox1 (26/6/14)

sjp770 said:


> Great tip man  i'll wire a DC power pack to a terminal strip and solder in appropriate diodes on the -ve leg. or was it on the pos?
> 
> QLDKev gave me the inspiration.  I ruined an extract brew once and was turned off completely. Dont think it was my fault though... mate forgot to pass the hops.
> 
> i'll get a shock when I total it up, but I want a list with links so others can copy easliy.


That's cool. One of those "others" will probably be me.

Brew rig v1 is (will be) a manual electric. If I want to do anything fancy with step mashes then it need to be either by decoction or adding hot water.

V2 will be the ducks nuts in terms of control, but unlike you I want to get a handle on what I can do without the gizmos first! 

(And the fact that America's weird power supplies mean you can't just do a straight copy. Always good to see what people use for a full 240v system.)

Mick


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## sjp770 (26/6/14)

Priced an enclosure today. NHP 400x400x200 cabinet $175. So I'm getting a mate to grab it wholesale, I'll let you know the cost soon.


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## sjp770 (26/6/14)

Cant afford a March pump atm, I was going to get a 12v one, but I stumbled on this:

Magnetic Drive Polysulfone Pump Home Brew Beer Wort Pump 809 March http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141322775887 $64.95 + $12 post

So needless to say its on its way. If it is good i'll grab a second later


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## sp0rk (27/6/14)

Those pumps are pretty good for the price, I've got the old model and it's been doing just fine the 6 months I've been using it


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## bazfletch3 (27/6/14)

sjp770 said:


> Priced an enclosure today. NHP 400x400x200 cabinet $175. So I'm getting a mate to grab it wholesale, I'll let you know the cost soon.


Hey mate

Not sure where you are, but I'm in melbourne and picked up an enclosure from these guys

https://www.switchesplus.com.au/detail/Non-Stone-Metal-Enclosure-400-x-400-x-200mm-IP66-with-Gland-Plate

$130 for the box you're looking for- I picked up a smaller one for my built for $70.

From memory there's an eBay retailer in Sydney who's pretty competitively priced too, especially if you can pickup and avoid freight.

Good luck!

Baz


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## bazfletch3 (27/6/14)

eBay seller I mentioned above- $130 delivered!

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=371077123264


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## QldKev (27/6/14)

sjp770 said:


> Cant afford a March pump atm, I was going to get a 12v one, but I stumbled on this:
> 
> Magnetic Drive Polysulfone Pump Home Brew Beer Wort Pump 809 March http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141322775887 $64.95 + $12 post
> 
> So needless to say its on its way. If it is good i'll grab a second later



Just so you are aware, that pump is not a March 809, it is a re-badged Kaixin mp-15. Still a great pump, but not the same pricing as a March.


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## sjp770 (27/6/14)

bazfletch3 said:


> eBay seller I mentioned above- $130 delivered!
> 
> http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=371077123264


Cheers, already had that in the watch list, but I was tempted to get something I could take home then and there. Got a mate on the hunt for a wholesale NHP or B&R.





QldKev said:


> Just so you are aware, that pump is not a March 809, it is a re-badged Kaixin mp-15. Still a great pump, but not the same pricing as a March.


Yeah, im aware it was dodgy naming on the listing, including 809 in the name. Typical eBay tactics to get it to show up when searching for a March 809.

Like I said, I cant afford a march so this is the go. I almost grabbed 2x second hand Iwaki's but I wasn't sure where to get a new impeller housing (no idea what they were used for, prefer a clean front) and they were 100V... :unsure:


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## sjp770 (27/6/14)

So I had a thought about adding another pump outlet for Cooling. If I went a CounterFlow cooling coil instead of a plate chiller (or even if I went with a Plate chiller) I could run a bucket of Ice water and an aquarium pump to cool the coil instead of tap water.

Thoughts?


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## rockeye84 (27/6/14)

[SIZE=10.5pt]I used a counter flow in conjunction with an immersion chiller. Use the immersion chiller to take the wort from 100c down to about 60-50c to stop bitterness extraction and preserve [/SIZE][SIZE=10.5pt]essential [/SIZE][SIZE=10.5pt]oils, then use my counter flow to chill down to 20c, running off direct to my ferment vessel. I have a pump and a 1 micron filter before my CFC. Kettle>Pump>Filter>CFC>Temp Gauge>Tap(for flow control).[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Then I’m good to pitch if doing an ale.[/SIZE]

I just use tap water, down in the deep south here the tap water is pretty cold. I have tried having my water run thru a 5 meter copper coil in a bucket of frozen solid ice, before it hits my CFC, didnt seem to cool any better or faster, for it to work you would probably need a 20-30m copper coil sitting in a deep freezer.


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## sjp770 (27/6/14)

Hmm... My thought was to have the cooling pump on for 10mins + before to get the coil down to temp. Copper & salt would be a bad mix I presume otherwise I'd use that to drop it a few more degrees.


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## sjp770 (27/6/14)

Chased up 2x 1/2" - 1/4" bushes in SS for $5.95 ea... Also 2x SS 1/2" nipple (male to male) at $6.28 ea. I decided a normal SS ball valve would do the HLT as it's before the boil stage and that set me back $12.89

Seemed expensive as I had a 3 piece ball valve the same as a Blichmann but they wanted over $50 for it! I think my Blichmann's were $38 or so.


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## gava (27/6/14)

Awesome to see more Brew Controllers coming out of the wood work.. 

I recently completed a DIY Electric brewery clone, found the build very fun... You sound like your well on your way..

Not sure if there is much to help but you can check over my build thread http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/78574-my-new-brewery-build-pics/

Keep the updates coming....

Cheers
Gav


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## sjp770 (27/6/14)

Wow Gav, just read through that build. Very impressive! Was it much more expensive to go tri-clover everywhere? I'd love to do that an weld the fittings in too ideally.


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## gava (27/6/14)

triclover is a touch more taxing than simple cam locks.. but they make cleaning very easy... I'd gladly pay the extra so my clean up is easier, saying that i ordered more of the silicone gasket because I had a habit of misplacing them mid brew so instead of finding them straight away I had a stash I could grab one from then I could the gasket later. 

This kit is one of ours we sell so I do admit I got it cheaper I would say the complete kit retail would have been around 3-4k 

good luck with the build and I'll be checking back for sure! as other say the build is as fun as the final product.

gav


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## sjp770 (27/6/14)

Don't think I had this order up yet, iBrew.com.au. This is for the kegs.


2x Hose Barbs - hose barb 1/2 x /1/2 hose barb for $9.50 each
3x Silicone hose...light duty for $7.95 each
1x False Bottom stainless steel for $49.95 each
1x Compression Fitting for $14.50 each
1x Blichmann Brewmometer (weldless) for $44.00 each
2x Blichmann 3 piece ball valve for $42.00 each
2x Weldless Kettle Bulkhead Kit for $18.00 each



Subtotal : $271.30 AUD
GST : $24.66 AUD
Shipping : $16.00 AUD
Total : $287.30 AUD


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## sjp770 (28/6/14)

So I just added the taps and brew thermometer to the keg, but I think the hole may have been a tiny bit too big for the temp dial. What happens when the o ring slips partly through the hole when tightened?




I'll do a leak test in the morning.


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## jonnir (28/6/14)

What size hole did you drill?


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## sjp770 (28/6/14)

I knew someone would ask that lol. Not sure, and since my keys are locked in the shed I can't go check or do a leak test  I'll look in the morning. Might have been 15mm?


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## jonnir (28/6/14)

For a half inch fitting? Isn't it supposed to be about 21mm?


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## Camo6 (28/6/14)

I imagine those thermos need about 14mm yeh? Pink thread tape and SS washers are your friends.


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## sjp770 (28/6/14)

22mm I thought for the 1/2".. I used a 7/8" drill bit there.

As for the thermo it was a 13mm bit and its watertight


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## sjp770 (28/6/14)

Don't have many equipment pics yet, but here is a PID with the SSR in the background.


And the inside of the keg:


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## sjp770 (29/6/14)

Ordered the elements  and a few other things including a step drill bit kit from ebay for $11


*Items Ordered*

*Price*

4 of: _Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Hex Locknut, MSS SP-114, 1" NPT Female_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]

$6.06

2 of: _Stainless Steel 304/304L Pipe Fitting, Close Nipple, Schedule 40 Welded, 1/2" NPT Male, 1-1/8" Length_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]

$0.90

4 of: _18-8 Stainless Steel Round Shim, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Annealed, Hard Temper, ASTM A666, 0.075" Thickness, 1-1/2" ID, 2-1/4" OD_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]

$2.88

2 of: _Leviton 83025-EXT 2-Gang No Device Blank Wallplate, Weather-Resistant, Aluminum, Box Mount, Gray_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]

$5.99

2 of: _Camco 02962/02963 5500W 240V Screw-In Lime Life Ripple Water Heater Element - Ultra Low Watt Density_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]

$25.57

1 of: _217 Silicone O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Red, 1-3/16" ID, 1-7/16" OD, 1/8" Width (Pack of 25)_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]

$9.11

1 of: _Stephen Hawking: A Quest For The Theory Of Everything_, Ferguson, Kitty
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Quality Bargain Mall (seller profile)

Condition: Used - Good[/SIZE]

[SIZE=x-small]Eligible for Amazon's FREE Super Saver/Prime Shipping, 24/7 ... see more[/SIZE]



$4.00

2 of: _Preferred Industries 662034 2-Gang Weatherproof Aluminum Box with Three ½-Inch Outlets_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]

$11.31

2 of: _Stainless Steel 304 Cast Pipe Fitting, Tee, Class 150, 1/2" NPT Female_
[SIZE=x-small]Sold by: Amazon Export Sales, Inc.

Condition: New[/SIZE]


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## sjp770 (30/6/14)

Just putting a name on the brew stand... 


I'll post a pic when it's done. What's the view on posting a name of your chosen brewhouse here? Do people generally respect the original users name choice and not steal it?


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## sjp770 (30/6/14)

Any guesses?

Might try and get a sparky here in the morning to upgrade the shed circuit to 25A to handle 1x element at a time. I have 4mm run so it should be ok.

Here's another hint:


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## pedleyr (1/7/14)

I'm not sure what you mean about stealing the name. Is it a problem at all if two home brewers have the same nickname for their hobby?


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## sjp770 (1/7/14)

I just think that unless it's something generic like "bruhaus" it's nice to have individualism. If you have a name and you haven't seen it anywhere else and you've searched to be sure, it would be nice to know its yours.


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## TheWiggman (1/7/14)

Call it WilliamsWarn. That'll make it a talking point and focus of much attention.

Nice looking build here too by the way, I like looking at these things coming along. A Stephen Hawking book is necessary for any bruhaus too, will come along handy should any large astronomical masses try to envelop mash enzymes.

Ahh, I see you already ordered one from Amazon.


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## sjp770 (1/7/14)

Well there it is.. I might try painting inside the letters later, although with the wax in there now it might be hard.

2x more SESTOS PID's arrived today. Also got the Star San and keg grease yeasterday. I'll drop in to the local home brew shop tomorrow and see what they have there. I was all set to go CO2 and kegs but I think i'll be bottling first.


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## Camo6 (1/7/14)

Nice name.


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## sjp770 (1/7/14)

Hehe, glad someone got it!


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## sjp770 (1/7/14)

TheWiggman said:


> Call it WilliamsWarn. That'll make it a talking point and focus of much attention.
> 
> Nice looking build here too by the way, I like looking at these things coming along. A Stephen Hawking book is necessary for any bruhaus too, will come along handy should any large astronomical masses try to envelop mash enzymes.
> 
> Ahh, I see you already ordered one from Amazon.


Never seen WilliamsWarn.. interesting.

Thats like brewbot. There is a kickstarter using that name when a student entered his brewbot in a rhenasas comp.

From what I can remember its a good read. She (Kitty Ferguson) writes another book called Measuring the Universe. It is an amazing read


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## sjp770 (2/7/14)

Enclosure is on its way from an electrical wholesaler. 

NHP NLS0404021 $121.50+GST


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## mofox1 (2/7/14)

Looks much the same as this one? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=371077123264

It's what I'm planning on getting for my CP. Assuming you included postage, you got a good deal. $132.72 for the ebay one.

Mick


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## sjp770 (2/7/14)

Yeah that's delivered. I got to have a look at the enclosure recently and liked it. It comes with the false back as well which is good. I guess thy all do but it would suck not getting one.


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## sjp770 (2/7/14)

Another $140 down today for sodium percarbonate and a brand new 19L keg.

Also received a few packages:



That's all the gear that I have so far that's been delivered.


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## sjp770 (2/7/14)

Updating the first post with prices:

3x SESTOS D1SR-220 PIDs http://m.ebay.com/itm/321329630539 AU $32.50 ea.
2x SSR's http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/331212781869 AU $13.26 ea.
6x Two position panel switches http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400610363901 AU $14.85 (all 6)
1x Three position panel switch http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120777367762 AU $4.51
1x Two position key panel switch http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161209631088 AU $4.16


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## sjp770 (3/7/14)

Another order.. Got some more stuff delivered and it gave me a clearer picture of the parts I need to be up and running.

ibrew.com.au

1x Female stainless 1/2NPT x 1/2 hose barb for $8.50 each
1x Hose Barbs - hose barb 1/2 x /1/2 hose barb for $9.50 each
1x Copper immersion wort chiller for $95.00 each
1x Dip Tube and Compression fitting - dip tube and compression fitting for $24.95 each
1x Blichmann 3 piece ball valve for $42.00 each
Total $179.95 plus $16 delivery

The immersion chiller will double as my herms when dropped into the HLT. When I get a counter flow chiller or plate chiller I'll find a dedicated herms vessel I think.. Might require some rethinking of the panel before I cut bits out, possibly another switch and SSR. I have a 1KW element that should suit a <10L Herms tank. Only issue is If I need to heat my sparge water with a 5500W element I might be way over my 6000w (25A) circuit limit

Also this is the stash as it stands delivered




Got the pump and the temp probes today. More may arrive with auspost (stuff from china) as this was just the parcel deliveries this morning.


----------



## jrcjamie (3/7/14)

Wow this sure is coming along a treat! Keen to see more so keep it coming!


----------



## sjp770 (5/7/14)

Unfortunately no deliveries today, and im away for a week so no more to speak of till i get back. I did however have a few too many Fat Yaks and hit order on 3x items I was holding back on previously:

MK II CO2 Gas Regulator, Disconnect, line, splitters & One way valve - home brew www.ebay.com.au/itm/221334431660 AU $119.95
Australian Standard Carbon Dioxide CO2 Gas Bottle Cylinder 9.1Litres 6kg FULL www.ebay.com.au/itm/301224328042 AU $199.00
Kincrome Automatic Wire Stripper with Crimper - K4001 www.ebay.com.au/itm/290721573731 AU $29.90

I still need to get the spade terminals to use with the crimper. Hoping to get away without a specialised crimper, I'm thinking of soldering each crimped cable to help as well.

No new phone for me for a while


----------



## TheWiggman (5/7/14)

Who needs to call people when you can solitarily sit at home enjoying the pleasures of home brew? Contemplate the meaning of life, analyse the budget and future implications, think about the next thing you're going to be buying for the HB setup etc.
Looks like you're going to have a very nice system here when you're done.


----------



## sjp770 (5/7/14)

I have a phone, bought a new Sony Xperia Z2 outright for once instead of on contract. It played up straight away so I sent it back for a refund as I found it at telstra for less. But then the money was just sitting there, you know, NOT being used to build a home brewery and I thought "I can fix that!"

The plan will be to do reloading while the beer brews for maximum manliness on the brew day  

Anyone know a good place to get 32cm lids? Are they even needed?


----------



## sjp770 (5/7/14)

So, 25A relays are technically ok but they should heat up more than 40A relays. So for $5 each I've grabbed 2x 40A SSR's. I will get a heat sink like the one on their site but from element14.com instead as it will be $63 with free freight


----------



## rockeye84 (7/7/14)

Get one a heatsink from jaycar.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HH8555 $20

I am running 2x 25a ssr's with this heatsink. Hardly gets warm pulling 10-12a thru the ssr.

40a ssr's are way overkill, that's like 9600w of switching power, per ssr @240v.. How bigger elements are you planning to run?


----------



## TheWiggman (8/7/14)

I run 40A SSRs with my 1800 and 2400W elements. I did this because I don't have adequate cooling on the SSRs and one of them actually started to melt. For the extra $5-odd they now run a lot cooler, and I'm not inconvenienced with large heatsinks on my fairly small control boxes.
If using heatsinks I wouldn't have the need.


----------



## sjp770 (9/7/14)

Bought a hydrometer off ebay just then as well as the following from iBrew:

Product SKU Price Quantity Total
Blichmann Therminator accesssory kit $65.00 1 $65.00
Blichmann Therminator Wort Chiller $280.00 1 $280.00
Blichmann Brewery Gloves (3 sizes) - Large (size 9) $19.50 1 $19.50
Faucet sample with ball lock disconnect $17.95 1 $17.95
Subtotal: $382.45 Shipping (Fastway 5kg sachet (all areas within Australia)): $12.50 Tax (GST 10.0%): $34.77 Total: $394.95

Still need to sort out the sockets on the base of the control box and the power cables. I have a Kinchrome automatic cable stripper on the way that CAN crimp the spade terminals on but its not a rotary crimper... I still need to get the spade (fork) un crimped terminals, any suggestions on where to grab a bunch cheap?

Also need to chase up black self adhesive cable tie mounts. If anyone has a link hit me up.


----------



## bazfletch3 (9/7/14)

Found these guys the other day, about the cheapest I've found locally. Haven't ordered from them yet though so can't comment on quality.

http://stores.ebay.com.au/discount-cable-ties

Cheers

Baz


----------



## Crouch (9/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> Enclosure is on its way from an electrical wholesaler.
> 
> NHP NLS0404021 $121.50+GST


Just starting out on my build too ... I'm in Melbourne and picked my control box up (400x400x210) from a guy around the corner from our warehouse for $35. Bargain!

Cut all my holes and painted it up - waiting for more bits and bobs to arrive. Will be watching your progress, cheers!


----------



## sjp770 (9/7/14)

lucky bugger! $35 

I have ordered a hole punch from RS for $35 just to see how it goes.

Anyone found a good place for these?


----------



## Crouch (9/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> lucky bugger! $35
> 
> I have ordered a hole punch from RS for $35 just to see how it goes.
> 
> Anyone found a good place for these?


Got mine from an ebay seller out of Hong Kong

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141238076708?var=440330094634&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## mofox1 (9/7/14)

Crouch said:


> Just starting out on my build too ... I'm in Melbourne and picked my control box up (400x400x210) from a guy around the corner from our warehouse for $35. Bargain!
> 
> Cut all my holes and painted it up - waiting for more bits and bobs to arrive. Will be watching your progress, cheers!


Do you think you can get another? Pretty damn interested if you can!

BTW, how do you cut nice square holes in the panel?


----------



## sjp770 (9/7/14)

cheers, just grabbed a pack of 25mm black. Whats the hole next to your left most PID?


----------



## Crouch (9/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> cheers, just grabbed a pack of 25mm black. Whats the hole next to your left most PID?


That's my power switch, directly above it is the power indicator light


----------



## sjp770 (9/7/14)

mofox1 said:


> Do you think you can get another? Pretty damn interested if you can!
> 
> BTW, how do you cut nice square holes in the panel?


A square punch for $1200 or an angle grinder / dremel / jigsaw


----------



## Crouch (9/7/14)

mofox1 said:


> Do you think you can get another? Pretty damn interested if you can!
> 
> BTW, how do you cut nice square holes in the panel?


Can easily get another one ... you here in Melbourne? 

I drilled holes in each of the corners and used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the rough shape, then filed it to size


----------



## sjp770 (9/7/14)

So my main thing I haven't gotten yet is connectors (sockets under the panel) and cable for the elements. Does someone have 8-10m of the stuff and maybe the glands to breakout of the box the element mounts to?


----------



## bazfletch3 (10/7/14)

Crouch said:


> Can easily get another one ... you here in Melbourne?
> 
> I drilled holes in each of the corners and used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the rough shape, then filed it to size


Jeez! A fortnight too late! I searched high and low on the net and the best I could find was a smaller enclosure (300x200) for $70. $30 is an amazing price!

Baz


----------



## mofox1 (10/7/14)

Crouch said:


> Can easily get another one ... you here in Melbourne?
> 
> I drilled holes in each of the corners and used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut the rough shape, then filed it to size


Sure am, will pm.


----------



## mofox1 (10/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> So my main thing I haven't gotten yet is connectors (sockets under the panel) and cable for the elements. Does someone have 8-10m of the stuff and maybe the glands to breakout of the box the element mounts to?


I found the cable that the electric brewery build used on Amazon by the metre (and ships to Oz)... I don't think I bookmarked it, so you'll need to search. Use the brand name as one of the key words.


----------



## mofox1 (10/7/14)

Crouch said:


> Got mine from an ebay seller out of Hong Kong
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141238076708?var=440330094634&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


Same here. They also do the crimp terminals sjp is after -
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131040780107






I needed some ring terminals for ground lugs... SJP - if you haven't got all the bits for those I picked up a bunch of star/spring/flat washers and bolts etc from http://stores.ebay.com.au/stainlesshop/





Mick


----------



## sjp770 (10/7/14)

Just managed to get the cable from an irrigation supplier for $10/m


----------



## sjp770 (11/7/14)

Few bits arrived while I was away. Didn't pay attention to the size of the green lights and ended up with 2x 16mm


----------



## sjp770 (11/7/14)

. 

Also got grain yeast and some citra hops for a little creature pale ale clone. I don't get to brew shops often so I grabbed it while I could. The hops smell amazing!

Shout out to the Shop Brew Your Own at Kambah in Canberra, Colin was extremely helpful and friendly.


----------



## sjp770 (12/7/14)

Re wired the fridge to be always on and then hooked up my temp controller to control the mains power to it. 



Also started on cutting the panel!






Just imagine those lights are green


----------



## mofox1 (12/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> Re wired the fridge to be always on and then hooked up my temp controller to control the mains power to it.


Thinking I need to do the same with my fridge. Takes too effing long for it to CC with the fridge cutting in and out. On the plus side, before I go rewiring it's still frost free.


----------



## Crouch (12/7/14)

Looking good ... I want my bits and pieces to arrive


----------



## sjp770 (12/7/14)

The rewiring was as simple as pulling off the thermostat inside the fridge and by passing it. The controller has compressor protection as well.
How much heat will the fermentation put off? My controller is only cool or heat so I cant put a heat mat in the fridge unless I replace it.


----------



## seehuusen (12/7/14)

For me it has only been plus 1 or 2 degrees for 30l-ish fermenting... I'm using a small electric blanket controlled the same way as the ATM... It keeps up more than fine inside the fridge


----------



## mofox1 (12/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> The rewiring was as simple as pulling off the thermostat inside the fridge and by passing it. The controller has compressor protection as well.
> How much heat will the fermentation put off? My controller is only cool or heat so I cant put a heat mat in the fridge unless I replace it.


You're in 'berra? Unless you're planning lagers, you're going to need the cool as much as me in Melb's.

At the moment I've got a 60W desk lamp sitting on the bottom of my fridge. Not ideal, as it puts out a bit too much heat and initially overshoots, but after which is fine. Will be looking to repurpose my old 40W lava lamp or actually get something appropriate like those reptile heat pads, or a low watt ceramic heater.

I wish my fridge was that simple, effing thermostat has about 6 wires coming out of the damn thing, and I can't be bothered finding out which does what (yet). Although a few more times of taking 2-3 days to get to 1-2degC will probably be enough to get me interested again.


----------



## sjp770 (13/7/14)

Nah, not in Canberra. I'm a couple of hours west.

More updates: 
Ready to paint





1st coat



Assembled:



Missing 2x green lights and 1x 3-way switch. Pretty sure I bought it first so I'll wait until this week is over then I'll order it again. 

I'm tempted to make the power light green and make both pump lights blue. Only problem is the amp / volt meters are blue.


----------



## sjp770 (14/7/14)

Paint job was average.. I should have heated up the metal and paint first. it would have been sub 10c at that time even with the sun on it 

Also the color of charcoal was not quite dark enough.


----------



## sjp770 (15/7/14)

The fridge has been holding a temp of 10c empty with the controler set to turn on at 15c. With the fridge always on I found it got to -11c before I stopped it.

I'm seriously considering a FullPint conical fermenter but can't decide between the 23L and the 64L.

If most of my batches will be 20-30L will the headspace be too much? And if I do a back to back brew can I just top up the same fermenter?


----------



## bazfletch3 (18/7/14)

mofox1 said:


> Same here. They also do the crimp terminals sjp is after -
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131040780107
> 
> 
> ...


I ended up getting some connectors via this guy on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25-BLUE-RING-TERMINALS-6MM-BOLT-HOLE-4-0-MM-CABLE-HANDY-PACKS-/300908348631?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item460f8904d7&_uhb=1

Local down here in Melbourne, had pretty sharp pricing and I had them in a day or so.

Also the cheapest crimp tool I could find for them was actually from supercheap auto for $20; should have bought one years ago instead of half wrecking the connectors with a pair of pliers!

Cheers

Barry


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## sjp770 (21/7/14)

Received the CO2 reg today. Had to cancel the therminator for now. Still waiting on the CO2 bottle to arrive.

Aliexpress doesn't really live up to its name as all the relays are still in China


----------



## Crouch (22/7/14)

My relays just arrived and after one look I realised I bought the wrong ones!! Checked your first few posts with the link to aliexpress for the correct ones, now to wait another 30 days (maybe longer from your most recent post!) for them to arrive ... so frustrating!


----------



## sjp770 (22/7/14)

I hope it wasn't from a link on my thread that you got the wrong ones! 

Just a note on that, I will do a full Bill of Materials once I have the panel functional with notes as to why I changed a part or which part is different.

I also have another hole punch on the way for the elements, which arrived the other day.


----------



## Crouch (22/7/14)

Not from one of your links ... I used your link to by the proper relay! I grabbed some on ebay but didnt read the description properly and only bought 5A relays!!

They are amongst the last things I need for my CP ... all my plumbing is (mostly) sorted, still tackling my element housing but its getting there.


Thanks for sharing your experience

Cheers


----------



## The Judge (22/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> Paint job was average.. I should have heated up the metal and paint first. it would have been sub 10c at that time even with the sun on it
> 
> Also the color of charcoal was not quite dark enough.


What paint did you use?


----------



## sjp770 (22/7/14)

White knight Rust Guard Topcoat Hammered Finish in Charcoal.

It will probably look great once the whole box is done. I think it was the sub 10c temps that screwed with it.


Got the green lights today. I ordered those a week or more after the relays.... ? Poor show aliexpress. If anyone can find a better provider for relays that's still cheap chime in.


----------



## sjp770 (24/7/14)

Got my 32mm (?) Ruko hole punch today. It looks real aggressive which should be perfect for the stainless.

I'm going to change the layout of the bottom lights and switches. I think key and two switches and the peizo on the bottom row, lights above.


----------



## husky (24/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> I hope it wasn't from a link on my thread that you got the wrong ones!
> 
> Just a note on that, I will do a full Bill of Materials once I have the panel functional with notes as to why I changed a part or which part is different.
> 
> I also have another hole punch on the way for the elements, which arrived the other day.


Looks like there's plenty of electric panels being built lately!
With the relays that you have used, are they a 12v coil as it says on the cover? Do you know if they're available in other voltages?


----------



## sjp770 (24/7/14)

All the photos are of the one relay, no matter what the rating. I'll post pics when and if they show.

Meanwhile in progress ville, I received the 220v ac -> 24v ac power packs and have mounted them with M4 stainless screws tapped into the back panel. I'm about to mount the AC/DC in to DC 5v adjustable drivers onto the board. O e was damaged in transit and is being replaced. I repaired the broken one but I wouldn't use it in the system.


----------



## sjp770 (24/7/14)

Panel meter supply stage mounted. Loving the kingchrome auto cable stripper BTW


----------



## sjp770 (24/7/14)

The plan is to get everything mounted then spray the back panel a bright orange.


----------



## Crouch (24/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> The plan is to get everything mounted then spray the back panel a bright orange.


Any reason for this?


----------



## sjp770 (24/7/14)

Matching other panels I've seen, but putting a layer of paint should help insulate the panel a bit.


----------



## sjp770 (24/7/14)

Reclaiming some wire for the panel. Got a quote for some panel mount sockets and a 25A GPO. Might order the heatsink later


----------



## Crouch (24/7/14)

Ahhh I see. My panel came with 1cm thick plastic 'o-rings' to put over the panel mounting bolts.


----------



## sjp770 (24/7/14)

So did mine, but how can you be 100% sure the base board (give me the right name for it or I'll keep guessing) isn't touching the posts? 

Its more for looks and the little bit of protection I guess? I could probably easily skip it.


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Aliexpress finally came through!


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Crouch said:


> Not from one of your links ... I used your link to by the proper relay! I grabbed some on ebay but didnt read the description properly and only bought 5A relays!!
> 
> They are amongst the last things I need for my CP ... all my plumbing is (mostly) sorted, still tackling my element housing but its getting there.
> 
> ...





husky said:


> Looks like there's plenty of electric panels being built lately!
> With the relays that you have used, are they a 12v coil as it says on the cover? Do you know if they're available in other voltages?



This is the link to the relays I bought, based off another members direction.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220VAC-80A-DPDT-Power-Relay-Motor-Control-Screw-Mount/1482936491.html


----------



## bazfletch3 (25/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> So did mine, but how can you be 100% sure the base board (give me the right name for it or I'll keep guessing) isn't touching the posts?
> 
> Its more for looks and the little bit of protection I guess? I could probably easily skip it.


Hang on, I might be misinterpretting you, but are you saying your "base board" is completely isolated from the box itself? This wouldnt be a good thing, you want the "base board" grounded just like the rest of the box.

You may want to isolate the indiviual components that you mount on the board from the board itself; that would make more sense....

Just checking - we dont want any fried brewers out there!



Baz


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Good point.I thought Crouch was saying his WAS isolated.. 

My main reasoning was isolation on the components unless they require an earth post.

So whats the consensus? Should I paint the board or not?


----------



## Crouch (25/7/14)

That is what I was saying, however having said that, I have a ground wire running from one bolt to the earthing pin theoretically assisting in ground the ... base board (?). I'll start my own thread and show pictures also ... the little plastic lugs lift the baseboard so that my bolts attaching the components have room for the nuts.


----------



## Camo6 (25/7/14)

I painted my mounting panel as it was an old piece of steel shelving. All my earths including the door post earth run back to the mounting panel which is secured to the box with star washers (or similar) that cut through the paint to provide a good ground. I made sure of all connections with an ohmmeter.


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Better layout on the switches.

I'm going to mount everything inside the panel tonight, then at some stage over the weekend I'll strip back the front panel and try again on the paint job, do you guys really think its important to seal the removable plate before mounting the SSR's?

I just bought this: 

1x http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221493177697 $28 AUD shipped


----------



## Crouch (25/7/14)

I haven't sealed mine, nor have I added silicon around the back of any of the front panel components ... I don't plan on hosing down my control box so didn't see the need 

I bought this heatsink .. pretty sure its not the right one - a) its not black, and b) it has a lower wattage it seems. I'm collecting a good range of spare bits and pieces that's for sure!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400717477289?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

As for its not black: its only looks. I think i copied my heatsink off the other thread here 





gava said:


> got it from ebay..
> 
> link here http://www.ebay.com/itm/30CM-300x120x20mm-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-25-30pcs-3W-LED-Power-Transistor-/221415466742?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item338d63e6f6
> 
> ...



All heatsinks should be way over kill so i wouldnt worry.

I probably wouldn't paint it, maybe a few light spray coats if its ugly? 

As for mistakes I bought 2x Aviation style panel connectors rated to 415v 30A but the 10/3 30A flex i bought is too fat for the connectors. $17 down the drain.. I also bought 25A SSR's with heatsinks which will now sit there and look pretty once I get me 40A ones.

I will say i'm really happy I have a few Taps for threading holes. M4 and M5 and I have heaps of stainless M4 screws from another project.

That heatsink will be fine. Its almost the same really.


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Making progress. The Ruko 32mm hole punch was JUST big enough for the 5500w camco elements. I need to get a 2.25" hole saw tomorrow to allow the metal box to fit over the back of the element.

I have the ring terminals from repco for $5 today.


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Oh, and the ruko hole punch lasted the two element holes and now the thread is no good. I still used it on a thin metal sheet but I'm lucky I didn't need to cut another hole. The other hole punch was a better design as there was no thread on the parts that cut. If the bolt was screwed you could use another.


----------



## Crouch (25/7/14)

Got a link for your transformers ... I've found several on ebay and was going to pop into jaycar this weekend (which I will anyway) but would be good to know which ones you choose.

Cheers


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Look at the LM317 input rating and shoot higher than your desired output voltage. Note that the LM317 can take either DC or AC in and output DC. I'll be testing them tonight, i'll post the link then.

Getting further with the components. That's everything mounted now.


----------



## huez (25/7/14)

I've only skimmed over this thread but saw you mentioned panel mount sockets. I searched long and hard for a twist and lock type power connector and ended up find these. They have a blue one for power in and grey for power out. Have worked out well for my small control box and relatively cheap from these guys

http://www.swamp.net.au/neutrik-nac3fcb-powercon-power-out-power-connector.html


----------



## sjp770 (25/7/14)

Looks cool but only rated to 20A. The elements draw 22A or so.

I bought these:



which are rated to 25A and 400VAC but after I received them I don't think I'd use them.

I'm not going twist lock, just HPM panel mount sockets. Two 10A normal outlets so you could theoretically use anything in the pump outlet, and you don't need to re cable your pump.


----------



## huez (25/7/14)

Ahhhh i skimmed to quickly apparently haha, now i see the 5500w elements! Looking good though!


----------



## sjp770 (26/7/14)

So... I have two dead panel meters..


----------



## sjp770 (26/7/14)

I hooked up the meters as they were supposed to be connected. I think the repaired lm317 is now dead.. At least it only wants to put out 10v. Hoping the other one is OK.

There was a point raised by the Electric brewery people that you could run both off the same power supply or the panels would blow but I actually managed to blow both separately! 

I got the volts out from the LM317 down to 5v and hooked up the Ammeter. All good. Hooked it up to the shunt (disconnecting power each time I opened the panel). Turn it on, Bang! tripped circuit and a dead ammeter.

Did the same with the Voltmeter off the other power supply, ran by itself fine, hooked it up to hot and neutral and Bang, same thing but no circuit trip this time.

There must be something weird like a potential difference? I dont know but I do know I now need 2x more meters.. 

EDIT: Maybe it was a DC shunt.. .I had a few lying around. Is there a difference?


----------



## Crouch (26/7/14)

Man that sucks .. I have no useful input though, my electronic capabilities extend to putting the knife into the toaster to get my bread out ... and here I am trying to build an electric control panel!! I'll be wearing rubber gum boots when I start wiring mine up!


----------



## sjp770 (26/7/14)

$43 down the drain 

So hold off following in my footsteps and copying the transformers for now.

I'll forge ahead tomorrow and try to get the PID's and Timer online. I need some smaller forky spade termination thingo's for the timer and bigger ones for the 4mm wire i'll use for the elements. I also need bigger ring terminals for the earth pole.


----------



## Crouch (26/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> $43 down the drain
> 
> So hold off following in my footsteps and copying the transformers for now.


I did a search for 'door bell transformers' (as per Kals build) on ebay.com.au and got dididly squat ... I don't expect this to be easy, but the end-goal will be an enjoyable one.


----------



## sjp770 (26/7/14)

I asked the question over there why the separate transformers and the answer was pretty much "because the instructions say so" and "if you dont do it this way the meters blow up"

Not once did someone actually say something useful like, "The transformers dont share a common ground as they dont have a grounding lead, so you can end up with a ground potential difference which is dangerous" (not true at all but the sort of answer i'd expect.)

I would love to have one power supply and a smarter protection circuit.


----------



## gava (26/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> I hooked up the meters as they were supposed to be connected. I think the repaired lm317 is now dead.. At least it only wants to put out 10v. Hoping the other one is OK.
> 
> There was a point raised by the Electric brewery people that you could run both off the same power supply or the panels would blow but I actually managed to blow both separately!
> 
> ...


I questioned why you'd even want these AMP and VOLTS meters in, I'm not sure about you but when I'm brewing I'm not monitoring what my amps/volts are doing I'm more about the temperatures and times.
I can see it looks cool on the panel but there's no real advantage.
I always thought the electric brewery guy put them in so it would make the panel look more even, maybe I'm missing something.

-Gav


----------



## TheWiggman (26/7/14)

I've looked through this thread and can't find a circuit diagram. Can you put it up? And if you don't have one, that would be the first thing I'd do before doing anything else. 
I agree that monitoring voltage and current isn't required. But the holes are there already so it'd be nice to have them filled with working meters.


----------



## sjp770 (26/7/14)

The holes are there now so I have to replace them. I like the idea of having the volts and more importantly the amps up on the panel.

It very well could have been something stupid I did, having based the wiring of their site. I have mounted the relay the correct way up but their diagram its upside down so I have all the wires on the wrong side(left and right are swapped) but it should still behave the same.

The ammeter I don't understand but there could have been something weird with the volt meter. As a precaution hooked up its wiring and then used a multimeter to check the voltage. I got a weird reading of 32v instead of 239v but as it was in range on the meter I hooked the meter up to verify. Bang. 


Could anyone see the real reason you wouldn't run both off the one power supply?


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## jonnir (26/7/14)

How did you hook them up?


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## sjp770 (27/7/14)

So it sounds like the mixup on the shunts may have killed the ammeter, and the instructions on the electric brewery may have lead me to connect the volt sensor neutral to a reply leg of the relay. Both meters arced from the DC pins to the ac monitoring side.

At this stage I'd love suggestions of higher quality meters that fit in 3 & 1/2" holes.


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## sjp770 (28/7/14)

Let's try this again


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## Crouch (28/7/14)

I'd leave it just like that! Full industrial, rough and ready look.


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## sjp770 (28/7/14)

I think I will paint it still, im going to wait until the paint is at least 20c before i attempt it again, it was so think last time and having the textured original paint underneath didn't help. As I was removing it you could see it had never really set either, it was like taking off rubbery glue.

I'm also going to move the active and neutral rails further apart, probably by pushing the neutral down and shifting the shunt down, more like the original design. I didn't put enough though into the cables coming out of the power rails.


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## sjp770 (28/7/14)

Picked up the JB cold weld for $12.99 at Masters. They also had a larger pack there for $38 with 140mls in each tube if anyone want to know such things..

I will glue the heating element box tonight, assembling it tomorrow. One of the issues I have is the ridge on the keg.


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## TheWiggman (28/7/14)

Sorry to be this bloke but...
If you're blowing meters because you're following the directions on the web site then in my opinion it's time to call in an electrician.

If you are an electrician then my apologies. It's just I get nervous when I see wiring without a full circuit diagram and blown components.

Ed: looked into this a bit more, there's no way you should be blowing ammeters across a shunt. The power source for them (low volt DC) is independent of what's being measured, which is across the shunt. Something's amiss, see a pro, never regret it.


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## sjp770 (28/7/14)

Well the mixed up shunt wasn't my fault, they look the same and I was certain they were all the same. As for the othone I metered out and got a bad reading, it was my fault I blew the volt meter as I didn't rectify it before hooking it up, just trusting a 30vac reading was within the range of the meter and not figuring out what was actually wrong. 

From here on in I'm not going to trust the guides and follow them blindly, I'll make sure i understand each step first. One of the things I need to fix is I was looking at the 120v diagram but I'm not sure if anything changed.


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## sjp770 (28/7/14)

Don't mind you saying so by the way, I've been talking to an electrical engineer about what the issues were. I'm still concerned as to why there is a need for two independent power supplies for the two meters, in my mind you should be able to power both off a 5vdc power supply in parallel if there is enough current.

Both meters had a resistor or similar SMD size chip connecting the negative leg of the DC circuit to the metered side, this is what blew. Even if it was a diode, why should they be connected at all?


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## TheWiggman (28/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> From here on in I'm not going to trust the guides and follow them blindly, I'll make sure i understand each step first.


Good. Understanding it is really important. Also remember US use 60 Hz too but most industrial units cater for both sides of the world. Shunts, relays and the like though... different story.
I quote from experience on this one. I've given myself 2 x 240V boots and don't recommend it. Most electrical stuff is simple really but electricians have one thing I don't - experience. It's the things you don't know that you don't know will catch you out.
I'm quite surprised theelectricbrewery put the instructions in the format they do, they're opening themselves up for liability listing clear instructions on how to wire AC equipment.

Ed: I misunderstood power supplies. Seems the AC and DC share a ground in the voltmeter. Just have to take their word for it I suppose.


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## TheWiggman (28/7/14)

Trying not to sound like a precocious knob, finding it hard. If anyone wants me just call out for dad.


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## sjp770 (28/7/14)

Haha, no you're fine. Any thread about making electrical panels should have this discussion.

I'm still not comfortable about the panel meters blowing and want to investigate why before I try it again. Also I will hook up the PIDs one by one before connecting the expensive auger timer.


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## Grainer (28/7/14)

Just remember electric brewery is US electric not Aussie


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Grainer said:


> Just remember electric brewery is US electric not Aussie



Is that in reference to the fact they have wiring diagrams up on the net? USA doesn't care who does electrical wiring.

As for everything else I put a lot of research into finding the right parts for this build in 240V and not 120V.

Wiring should be this: (FROM HERE)



<<images removed>>


The most annoying part is the correct way to mount the Relays is upside down to this pic. At least that going on the text printed on the plastic cover.


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## Crouch (29/7/14)

I fully expect to get shot down for this comment, but it'll all work out mate ... it sucks to be blowing meters and spending extra cash, but at the end of the day we're (and anyone else making their own panels) are taking the risks and when everything ultimately works it will all be sweet. I fully expect to destroy half the stuff I bought for my CP, but as long as I'm sensible about power/electricity and my touching stuff with current going through things, it doesn't bother me if stuff starts blowing ... its part of the adventure.


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## barneyhanway (29/7/14)

My $0.02, ditch the DC meters and get AC ones.
That way you skip 2 sensitive components (step down transformer and AC > DC power supply) and just use your native 240VAC straight into the meters. Conceptually simpler and much simpler to wire.
No shunt for the amp meter either, 240VAC amp meters measure using an induction transformer (a donut that the wires you wish to measure the current of run through the hole in the middle).


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

If you can find me some in that 3&1/2 mounting hole I'm all for the 240v meters. Can't seem to find them though. I'm open to analog ones too.


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## barneyhanway (29/7/14)

There's heaps on aliexpress, e.g.:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/AC-220V-Volt-Meter-AC-75V-to-300V-Blue-Digital-Voltmeter-Digital-Panel-Meter-Volt-Testers/715558567.html

I got this combined volt/amp meter: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Blue-LCD-Display-Digital-AC-voltmeter-ammeter-AC100-300V-Voltage-Volt-Amp-Ampere-Current/910785581.html
Simple to wire, works a treat and takes up only one slot on my small panel.


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## gava (29/7/14)

Crouch said:


> I fully expect to get shot down for this comment, but it'll all work out mate ... it sucks to be blowing meters and spending extra cash, but at the end of the day we're (and anyone else making their own panels) are taking the risks and when everything ultimately works it will all be sweet. I fully expect to destroy half the stuff I bought for my CP, but as long as I'm sensible about power/electricity and my touching stuff with current going through things, it doesn't bother me if stuff starts blowing ... its part of the adventure.


Shooting down begins, well not really just cautions... When I built my panel,I went out of my way to understand what I was installing.. making sure that my wires and parts were connected up correctly.. I don't believe you should expect to blow parts up.. Just working off a plan which has been online doesn't mean you can blindly go wiring it up and assume it's going to work.. You need to fully understand that you're playing with 220volts! kill you type stuff... 
When I sourced my parts I checked the diagrams, worked out how they worked... checked the 'the electric brewery' plans, checked if this suits my wiring then double check, drew them down, checked again, if i wasn't sure I asked... expecting to blow parts up so you can get your panel out "quicker" shouldn't be a given in any project.. the end result should be a well understood build which was undertaken safe as possible, if it comes out cheap great.. remember you can't buy back from death like games so doesn't really mater how much you save on a unsafe project.

Saying that, I had fallen into the QUICK GET IT DONE category previously, I've been zapped a few times to which shifted the way I do projects in the future. You can only handle so many jolts to the hand before your luck runs out and your a burnt biscuit.. 

just a caution from a previous project rusher.. If I've missed the mark then I'm sorry.. if not I hope I've given you something to think about

Cheers
Gavin


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

The issue now is the holes in the panel, the meters would have to fit in there.


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

My next question based on the wiring there, is why dont I hook up a switch to select between HLT and MLT for the control source of the HTL Element?

If I am recircing wort through a copper coil in the HLT but im trying to keep the temp on my MLT I would have to raise the temp to a few degrees above to count for the loss in the tubing. If I set the MLT Temp to the desired temp and have the HLT element heat up until the wort is coming out of the MLT at the right temp wouldn't that make more sense? It should just mean switching the input of SSR#1 from the first PID to the second PID....


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## bazfletch3 (29/7/14)

Only other thing I want to throw into the discussion by way of caution is that you need to completely understand WHAT you are doing, and WHY you are doing it. In my experience theres plenty of people with no formal qualification who I would say are much more capable of building a control panel like these than some of the A grade sparkys Ive worked with in the past!

In my view (and this is only my opinion) I really dont like the way Kal on the Elec Brewery site has drawn up his wiring diagrams. Noth that any of his diagrams are wrong, just for my mind and the way it works and the way Ive always done things (Im an electronics/comms engineer-turned project manager), I want to see a complete circuit diagram. In the case of my build (which is progressing VERY slowly), I followed a similar path to Gava, in that I used Kal's as a base, read them, re-read them until I understood them, changed them to suit, then drew my own complete diagram from scratch. I then checked and reviewed it myself over and over until I was sure, and then got someone else who I trust to peer review it - its AMAZING how many times a fresh set of eyes will find a rookie mistake that someone absoluetly qualified and competant has made when they become almost too involved and engrosed in a project. As an aside, this is how the companies Ive worked for all operated, ego-free peer review of every design and document before it's signed off on.

While there were no mistakes as such with my circuit diagram when I had it checked, there were plenty of "why are you doing this", "why is that switching that" kind of questions, and you need to know your circuit well enough to be able to answer those sort of questions.

What I actualy found surprising, is that my panel has been condensed and simplified to a degree from Kal's design; yet there are still 53 separate wiring hookups!! And I thought it was a fairly simple control circuit!

I would never try to discourage anyone from doing anyone themselves (pot-kettle-VERY black here!), but I always want to understand why Im doing something before I do it, not learn why while Im doing it.

If I can use an example of this SJP770...




sjp770 said:


> The most annoying part is the correct way to mount the Relays is upside down to this pic. At least that going on the text printed on the plastic cover


Im not sure you fully understand how the relay is working; asuming you're using the same relay as the pic you are simply switching 2 x NO contacts (not change over contacts with Commons). It doesnt matter which way up you mount or wire the relay; so long as you wire the coil correctly, and dont wire ACCROSS the 2 separate NO contacts, the IN & OUT of the contacts doesnt matter.......

Just take your time and dont rush! 

(Geez, now Ive just re-read my post I feel old & grumpy too!! maybe the missus is onto something!!!!)


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Yeah, that was the part where I was following blindly and not understanding. 

Mind you I was following other safety precautions, it was on its own 10A breaker, I was metering everything instead of touch testing to make sure there were no volts. 

Upside down or not, left or right to the relay should have to bearing, but what goes coil side and what goes contactor side was the bit that I was not comfortable with, especially having to look at it upside down to see where he was connecting it up.

Like I said, I didn't understand the auxiliary connectors on the relay which means I didn't understand the relay and I should have stopped.


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## TheWiggman (29/7/14)

Leave the meters in for the time being to fill up the holes. Get everything working, then think about revisting later.

Controller builds typically 'descend' to this kind of talk after a while, which is why I didn't want to be 'that bloke'. It's all been said before.



bazfletch3 said:


> Only other thing I want to throw into the discussion by way of caution is that you need to completely understand WHAT you are doing, and WHY you are doing it. In my experience theres plenty of people with no formal qualification who I would say are much more capable of building a control panel like these than some of the A grade sparkys Ive worked with in the past!


Bazfletch I completely agree with the first part, but not with the second. It's not so much about capability as it is about culpability. It's illegal in this coutry to do your own 240VAC wiring yet here are many of us doing it. You stuff up something and it burns down your house - there goes your house. A licenced electrician makes the same mistake, and your insurance will cover it. Likewise you can do the wiring yourself but before it's in a state where it can be plugged in get an electrician to do the final eye over and terminations. That way anything potentially life threatening will be addressed, and you can be confident if poo hits the fan you've done everything in your power by the book.
I don't want to get into the argument about good and bad sparkies as there are bad eggs in every trade. Saying there are bad sparkies out there isn't a good argument against not having one give your control box the tick. The insurers won't be very sypathetic with you (nor your widow) there.


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## Crouch (29/7/14)

Great posts Gava and bazfletch ... as sjp770 mentions, so far I have also been 'following along', not necessarily blindly, but I certainly don't have a full understanding of how every component works, or why.

Time to sit back and do even yet more reading perhaps ...


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## gava (29/7/14)

Crouch said:


> Great posts Gava and bazfletch ... as sjp770 mentions, so far I have also been 'following along', not necessarily blindly, but I certainly don't have a full understanding of how every component works, or why.
> 
> Time to sit back and do even yet more reading perhaps ...


It took me awhile to understand a few things but once I did it seem to snowball and my panel was built pretty quickly afterwards and with confidence it won't kill me..
I got as much as I could from Kals drawings then put them aside (referenced them) but drew my own up for my panel since I had a couple of modifications.. i don't know electrical drawings so mines just done with parts in visio (yeah very technical here) but I understood it..

Gav


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

That definitely sounds like the go. Leave the panel meters until later and start drawing up a wiring diagram to have a sparky error check it then install it. I will be getting it passed before I move away from the 10A breaker and onto the 25A one. I'm also getting a sub board installed so there is more protection for the house etc.Wont help me but it will help.


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## bazfletch3 (29/7/14)

Crouch said:


> Great posts Gava and bazfletch ... as sjp770 mentions, so far I have also been 'following along', not necessarily blindly, but I certainly don't have a full understanding of how every component works, or why.
> 
> Time to sit back and do even yet more reading perhaps ...


It might just be my sick mind, but I actualy enjoy the learning part, as much as the building part, as much as the brewing stuff - not quite as much as the drinking part!

Dare I say its half the reason its taking me so long to do anything; I keep getting stuck out on a tangent spending time reading up on stuff thats interesting, but only mildy relevant!

Its easy for me to say as I know my mind "works" in circuits and lines and stuff (as my wife describes it while looking at me blankly), but none of the components or wiring that makes up these panels is very complicacted - especially when you look at it individualy. My adivce (and tell me to stick it!) is to do yourself a favour and get your head around understanding the circuit and the componets 100% - apart from anaything else it will make fault finding down the track much much easier - and one way or another you will have faults at some stage!




TheWiggman said:


> Bazfletch I completely agree with the first part, but not with the second. It's not so much about capability as it is about culpability. It's illegal in this coutry to do your own 240VAC wiring yet here are many of us doing it. You stuff up something and it burns down your house - there goes your house. A licenced electrician makes the same mistake, and your insurance will cover it. Likewise you can do the wiring yourself but before it's in a state where it can be plugged in get an electrician to do the final eye over and terminations. That way anything potentially life threatening will be addressed, and you can be confident if poo hits the fan you've done everything in your power by the book.
> I don't want to get into the argument about good and bad sparkies as there are bad eggs in every trade. Saying there are bad sparkies out there isn't a good argument against not having one give your control box the tick. The insurers won't be very sypathetic with you (nor your widow) there.


You'll get no disagreement from me in terms of your logic Wiggman!

Invaribly every forum about a panel build brings up this dicusssion - so I wont go there.

My take is knowledge = safety = no nasty insurance converstaions in the first place!

Having said that (and I know it contradicts my argument) Ive always said theres a reasonable argument to only be able to buy electrical consumables, and plumbing, and whatever, from designated suppliers, where you have to show your "ticket" first.... would create quite a nice black market though!

 Baz


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## mofox1 (29/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> My next question based on the wiring there, is why dont I hook up a switch to select between HLT and MLT for the control source of the HTL Element?
> 
> If I am recircing wort through a copper coil in the HLT but im trying to keep the temp on my MLT I would have to raise the temp to a few degrees above to count for the loss in the tubing. If I set the MLT Temp to the desired temp and have the HLT element heat up until the wort is coming out of the MLT at the right temp wouldn't that make more sense? It should just mean switching the input of SSR#1 from the first PID to the second PID....


I've been playing around with various (paper) options on how to do this too.

You can have a switch that will change the the PID controlling the HLT element. It's location in the circuit will be between the PIDs and the control (5V) side of the existing HLT SSR. Congratulations, your mash PID can now do more than just display the temps (as it does in Kals build).

Unfortunately, your HLT holds a huge amount of thermal mass. 50' of coil in the HLT it means the temp of the wort coming out of the coil will pretty much match the HLT temp. You need to make sure you are measuring mash temps coming *out* of the coil, otherwise you either risk overshooting your target temps and cooking your enzymes (stuffing the mash), or the PID will slow the heating duty cycle to compensate the slow system response times, resulting in a much slower ramp than if you just controlled the temp of the HLT alone.

If you want quicker ramp times *and* want to control the mash temp directly, then your best option is a 4v system to include a small (2-3L) herms pot. This does mean another element (and coil), and you are going to have to re-design the control systems to ensure that only 1 of the 3 elements are going at any one time (or ensure the system can handle the herms and HLT elements at the same time (ie - 20 - 45A total draw, depending on your element choices).

Sit back, have a think and put a plan on paper.


*Disclaimer:* I haven't finished my build. None of the advice or explanations above are based from experience, just a whole lot of reading and a hopefully solid understanding of the physics involved.


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Yeah, that was one worry. BUT, why do I need to monitor the wort coming out of the MLT at all? Why dont I add an auto sparge arm and monitor that temp as the wort goes back into the top? I have a manual thermometer in the fron of the MLT so I can double check the strike water temp, but even so I could recirc that as well.


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## mofox1 (29/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> Yeah, that was one worry. BUT, why do I need to monitor the wort coming out of the MLT at all? Why dont I add an auto sparge arm and monitor that temp as the wort goes back into the top? I have a manual thermometer in the fron of the MLT so I can double check the strike water temp, but even so I could recirc that as well.


You don't. You want to measure the "hot" side - ie coming out of the coil, or, as you mentioned, going back into the top of the mash tun (same thing - only separated by ~0.5m of hopefully insulated silicone hose).


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Cool, well I might do that. I can integrate the Reset button and alarm light as I bought an illuminated button. That should free up a hole to add another switch. Now to figure out how to wire up the switch...? Any suggestions?


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## gava (29/7/14)

With my control panel I've allowed for an upgrade to a stand alone HERMS?RIMS unit with a twist..

since my IN is only 20amps which i've allowed for my elements pumps etc.. I've wired up my PID (second on the right) to output the SSR pulse to a port on the bottom of the panel instead of 240v for controlling the element directly.
From this I'll build a full stand alone HERMS pot with element + SSR and the power cord (probably 10amp) going to a separate 10amp socket in my brewery.. 

This way my control panel doesn't require any further rewiring I can just connect the HERMS to the SSR output connector on my panel and off we go.. suits my power restriction in my brewery anyway until i upgrade to a 40amp plug THEN i need some rewiring..


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Cool, good idea. I was going to look at a HERMS pot but I think the 3v system is enough for the moment. I have those plug / screw connectors from a few pages back if you want a cheap set to connect the cables to the boxes.

I was going to do a chiller switch as well but i'll have to wait on that one.

What do you guys think, Should I grab a Chronical 26L fermenter or a Brew Bucket and a therminator? I have about $500 to spend. I had to cancel the therminator a while ago and I was going to use the HERMS coil for both HERMS and an immersion chiller.


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

So here is my next problem... I think I need to bash in the side of the keg. 

I should have sat the plate on the side of the keg to make sure it was flat before punching the element hole.

Should I use a block of metal on the inside to squash the metal flat against it? I'm worried about scratching the inside of the vessel


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

I had some old silicone around too..

I'm wondering if some silicone tape on the thread and an o-ring inside would help in terms of sealing too?


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## Crouch (29/7/14)

I have you seen the enclosures that I used ... surely it would be easier to just grab some new enclosures rather then try and flatten the side of the keg?


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Yours are great, and if I hadn't bought anything i'd have gone for them. But as it is i'll make this work. One of my kegs is bashed around so much already you'd think im straightening it out!


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## TheWiggman (29/7/14)

DO NOT SEAL WITH SILICONE SEALANT

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/76055-all-grain-3v-electric-system/?p=1106467

Absolutely use thread tape and silicone. If that sealant makes contact with the boiling wort (and it may, mine melted) it will be immediate garden food.


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

It's in their instructions to help make sure the electric side is watertight, not the wort side.

Although if you aren't trying to seal inside the vessel you must be expecting it to get into the gap with the heating element and the o ring on the outside...?

I have Pink High density silicone tape, is that ok?


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## Crouch (29/7/14)

If its anything like mine, the silicone is inside the element housing not the pot.


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Yep that's right. Just finished reading from the linked post TheWiggman, I can see why you capitalized it! I really hope I dont have such a crappy introduction, I hope your off an brewing now 

Anyone have an opinion on the Brew bucket and therminator or the Chronical fermenter? im so tempted for the fancier fermenter...


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Bone dry  that was until I forgot to shut off the tap and the whole thing overflowed! Made me panic for a few seconds..


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## gava (29/7/14)

sjp770 said:


> Bone dry  that was until I forgot to shut off the tap and the whole thing overflowed! Made me panic for a few seconds..


Have you made a weep hole under your control box just in case of leakage?

Gav


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Yep, will do. I saw that on the highly coveted triclover heater enclosure.


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## Crouch (29/7/14)

gava said:


> Have you made a weep hole under your control box just in case of leakage?
> 
> Gav


 mmm, that's a good point


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## sjp770 (29/7/14)

Updated pic of all three vessels.


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## sjp770 (30/7/14)

Picked up the panel mount outlets for the pumps and metal glands for the heating cables and mains.

I'm not doing a fully removable cable for mains, I'm not sure why its needed? Mine will be like any normal appliance, a fixed power lead with a plug on the end.

Now I just need to source the 25A gear.


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## sjp770 (30/7/14)

Temp probe holders mounted and pump outlets. Repaint has come up better but needs another coat. Thinking of applying sideways instead of up and down...


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## sjp770 (31/7/14)

So I'm sick of this paint. With all the holes its hard to apply it smoothly in an even coat.I think unless it dries better than it looks now I'll strip it and get it done in automotive paint or powder coated.

Here you can see the leads plugged in for the temp probes, these are the pre done probe cables from Auber. The connectors are a bit fiddly but one on they seem tight. I can see why Kal went with XLR connectors.

In that pic there is a hole for the metal gland im using but I need to go back to the sparky tomorrow as they should have come with nuts for the inside. Hoping they were in the bottom of the tray of glands...


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## sjp770 (31/7/14)

Paint job looks OK in person and feels nice and hard, unlike the first time it was painted.

Pic shows up a lot of faults. If I could spray it on I'd be OK.

Last switch arrived for the front, the three way switch go lost in the mail the first time.

The metal mains gland has been installed too. Needed to pickup nuts for the back as they weren't included, electrical wholesaler threw them in for me


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## Camo6 (31/7/14)

Are you applying it with a brush? Looks to be going on a tad thick to me. Why can't you spray it on?


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## sjp770 (31/7/14)

Yeah applying it with a brush. Spray it on with what?
I don't own a compressor..


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## Camo6 (31/7/14)

Silver Hammertone finish aerosol can from Bunnings? A few light coats at room temps should come up tops. I did my hole brewstand in pressure packs. Just an option 'sall.


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## sjp770 (31/7/14)

Yeah, I'll do that with a black hammertone. Love the hammertone but hate this paint.

Or I'll get it do e when someone is getting a don't fixed on their black Mercedes lol. Love Mercedes paint.


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## sjp770 (1/8/14)

Another iBrew order arrived: copper immersion chiller which will double as Herm's coil for now, blichmann brewery gloves and a bronco tap for my first pour. I'll add a font and taps later.

Also bit the bullet and grabbed this Chronical 64L fermenter.


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## Crouch (1/8/14)

Love that fermenter. I'd love to grab some conical's but have no temperature control at the moment, let alone a fridge big enough to put something like that in it!

Very nice.


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## sjp770 (1/8/14)

Going to have to double check the fridge size lol.. pretty sure it will be OK.


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## sjp770 (1/8/14)

Just fits! Need to install a sturdy shelf.


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## sjp770 (7/8/14)

Ended up having to order the heater plug and sockets instead of sourcing the HPM 25A gear. The eBay step bits didn't last so I have the greenlee one on the way as well as a decent rachetting crimping tool with multiple inserts.

Also managed to get a 32A single phase plug for cheap. Just need to source the socket now.


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## sjp770 (12/8/14)

Still no 40A SSR's. Looks like I will run with the 25A ones for a while. I am currently waiting on the heatsink, the heater plugs and sockets and the 32A gear to arrive. I just ordered a second pump which means I need more tubing and ball valves etc. ouch.

SWMBO is getting antsy at the spending, and I think ive sold everything I want to so far to fund it with not a drop of beer brewed 

Managed to find a 20L bucket for $13 at bunnings on the weekend. At least my grain is protected from any rodents (not that I have any around for now.)


----------



## sjp770 (13/8/14)

Second pump turned up super quick! Only ordered it yesterday off eBay.


----------



## sjp770 (18/8/14)

Deliveries!


----------



## sjp770 (18/8/14)

Plugs done on one end. I used a 2" hole saw for the leviton 30A sockets but its still a little tight so I need to grind it out. Also got around to jb welding the top panel on. No heatsink yet to fit to it though


----------



## sjp770 (20/8/14)

Going to chase up some TSP at Gunning's today to passivate the new fermenter. I'll also grab a few flap discs so I can finally strip back the back of the cabinet and paint it.

Got the leviton 30A sockets in, still need to drill and tap them though. I've got a bit more room on the base in case I want to control a chiller and maybe something else. I still have to mount the 7A fuse holder as well.


----------



## sjp770 (20/8/14)

So my plan is to brew THIS SATURDAY. Basically I have a mate travelling 6hrs to visit for other reasons and we want the beer to be ready. That gives it exactly 2 weeks fermentation.

Besides wiring up the panel I need to clean everything, I bought some TSP today for passivating the Stainless Conical fermenter, I also have some PBW and Starsan. 

What s the best plan? Soak everything in TSP on the kegs / fermenter, rinse and allow to dry then wash with starsan on the day?

I have everything except the heatsink, but the 25A SSR's have heatsinks so it should get me through the first brew.

Tips hints?


----------



## mofox1 (20/8/14)

sjp770 said:


> So my plan is to brew THIS SATURDAY. Basically I have a mate travelling 6hrs to visit for other reasons and we want the beer to be ready. That gives it exactly 2 weeks fermentation.
> 
> Besides wiring up the panel I need to clean everything, I bought some TSP today for passivating the Stainless Conical fermenter, I also have some PBW and Starsan.
> 
> ...


Tips? Don't cut corners. If you think it's going to be a rush job, go buy a slab of the best craft beer you can find and get your mate to help you brew your first brew in 2 weeks time.


----------



## sjp770 (20/8/14)

Well if I paint tomorrow night I can wire up Friday night, dry/wet run on sat morning and then brew. Tonight I need to finish the element wiring, and do a head count of any fittings I need. I have the chance to grab a ball valve or two on Friday, but no barb fittings which might suck. Doesn't mean I can't brew, just that I can only run one pump.

Not looking to cut corners, I have so much here ready to go. Just means a few carefully planned nights.


----------



## sjp770 (20/8/14)

hmmm... besides missing the connectors for the second pump im also 1x 12mm barb down. I think I might aim to make the brew day the day he visits instead, still a cool day, and like you said have some nice craft beer to drink while brewing.

No way I could get that barb here by the weekend. I'll still try to paint tomorrow, and if by some miracle the hydraulic place I grab bits and pieces from has a 12 mm barb i'll try a dry run on saturday.

Ive been considering changing to quick disconnects as well. Also I dont think I have the right hose, mine isn't thick walled so it might be hard to handle.


----------



## Crouch (20/8/14)

Wire up the panel in one night?! Took me 3, but that was only a few hours each night, I guess it could be done in probably 6 hours or so if you had everything right there ready to go.

Do the 1st brew day with your mate ... get everything running they way you want it, including both pumps ... even with my setup finished and 'tested' I still had leaks and issues.

Great to hear its all coming together though!


----------



## sjp770 (20/8/14)

Wiring the panel could be done in one night, skipping the amp meter and volt meter. Making it tidy however would require a massive session.

I have a bunch of 3mm spade terminals but the auber timer seems to take smaller spades. 

How many meters of what hose did you use Viv? and are you happy with those quick disconnect fittings?


----------



## Crouch (20/8/14)

I picked up a 20m roll from Keg King ... I think its 12mm ID and 18mm OD. I love those quick disconnects, easy to use one handed - the only thing that gets me is the bloody clamps I've used, they dig into your palms. After some suggestions from others I'll replace those with zip ties

Edit, actually that didnt answer the question  I made 5 hoses, of varying length - I didn't measure them I just sort of held them out and estimated how far I need them to go between the valves and pumps.


----------



## sjp770 (21/8/14)

Cool, so what was the cost of the fittings and hose all up? Hopefully you can point me in the right direction to grab it all soon


----------



## Crouch (21/8/14)

The hose was $5/m - I think a 20 metre roll was $90?

I needed 12(?) male disconnect barbs (keg king part number is 005588) - they are $10 each
I needed 10 female disconnects (one for each end of the hose) - they were $6 each.

All up - $260 for the hoses ... ouch


----------



## mofox1 (21/8/14)

Yeah... Totalling things up its a bad idea. I've kept a spreadsheet on my expenditure for my build, and even purchasing a lot of my stuff from eBay etc, it's still adding up. My HLT will be almost $600 by the time I add sight glass, herms coil and water return.


----------



## sponge (21/8/14)

If you're adding a HERMS coil to the HLT, then you can hide that under the HEX budget.



h34r:


----------



## sjp770 (21/8/14)

Crouch said:


> The hose was $5/m - I think a 20 metre roll was $90?
> 
> I needed 12(?) male disconnect barbs (keg king part number is 005588) - they are $10 each
> I needed 10 female disconnects (one for each end of the hose) - they were $6 each.
> ...


Thanks for that, I was looking at that much for 6m from ibrew, What were the delivery times like?


----------



## sjp770 (21/8/14)

sponge said:


> If you're adding a HERMS coil to the HLT, then you can hide that under the HEX budget.
> 
> 
> 
> h34r:


BUDGET?!?! What is this you speak of?

I just thought it was an endless hole for money.


----------



## Crouch (21/8/14)

sjp770 said:


> Thanks for that, I was looking at that much for 6m from ibrew, What were the delivery times like?


i collected from them, not sure on delivery - sorry


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## sjp770 (21/8/14)

Well unless you went to China then that's a good thing. I'm hoping to get it all ready in the 2 week window


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## sjp770 (21/8/14)

Grabbed a few brass barbs to see me through. Also grabbed 12m of copper pipe to use as the hex.


----------



## sjp770 (21/8/14)

Some brass fittings to get me through the first brew.

Also don't judge me too harshly on the 12m of copper squeezed into the hlt. Messy but it should do the job

40A SSRs finally arrived.

Also I did this:


----------



## sjp770 (21/8/14)

Just need the heatsink


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## sjp770 (22/8/14)

mm mm....


----------



## sjp770 (22/8/14)

Picked up an Oxygen cylinder and regulator for $96 today, it was only $36 for the reg  Went to grab another 3 piece ball valve but they wanted $59 for it!! nope.


----------



## seehuusen (23/8/14)

wow, build coming along nicely mate  I note that you've stopped keeping a public tab on what it has cost so far, LOL, I can understand why, though I'm still interested to know 

I bet you can't wait to brew your first beer!! keep it up champ, not much left now!! :chug:


----------



## sjp770 (24/8/14)

Ran out of a termination ends for the bigger wire and everyone had shut, so I painted instead


----------



## sjp770 (26/8/14)

Gave all my 3 piece ball valves a clean disassembled with TSP. The Blichmann ones were very clean and the ones from the chronical were dirty and some gaskets didn't fit 100% right and had been crushed during assembly. Still working 100% but you can really tell the difference in cheap vs quality.

Next is the actual fermenter. I might get a sparky in today to mount the 32A wall socket.. depends whether I fit into the schedule.

Looking at trying tri clamp fittings instead of quick disconnects. For a set of 10x 0.5" npt threaded male to 1.5" tri clamp fitting, gasket, clamp and 1.5" triclamp to 12mm hose barbs its about $160. I think I want to add 3 more bulkheads for top return in each vessel so I might need to up that to 12 sets. Then I need to add the roll of tubing.


----------



## sjp770 (28/8/14)

What do you guys think about the trip clamp fittings for hoses? At least I'll be able to keep most of it when I move to a no thread system of butterfly valves and trip clamp fittings.


----------



## Crouch (29/8/14)

"trip clamp fittings"? Do you mean tri clover clamps and fittings? My next system, which will probably be several hundred litres will use those fittings and sanitary welds. From my understanding those are requirements for any commercial system .. though I could be wrong.


----------



## mofox1 (29/8/14)

Crouch said:


> My next system


Your next system.

Next.

?!


----------



## sjp770 (29/8/14)

Seen them referred to as tri clamp and tri clover.

Ordered some orings for that type of connection and accidentally ordered Teflon instead of silicone.

I'll get my first brew out before I do anything more I think.


----------



## bazfletch3 (29/8/14)

mofox1 said:


> Your next system.
> 
> Next.
> 
> ?!


Some people can't be helped.......


----------



## Crouch (30/8/14)

bazfletch3 said:


> Some people can't be helped.......


I looked for help once ... didn't find it.


----------



## sjp770 (31/8/14)

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=430

For anyone looking to build one of these panels this looks good.

As far as progress goes I ran out of clips again today but I'm very close!

Wiring is messy and I'm missing the neutral run for the ssr's and some links on the hot and neutral rails. Also still waiting on the heatsink...


----------



## Kshadlow23 (31/8/14)

Sjp770 where did you get your box from for the electric control box
I am geting all my parts together just need a box


----------



## sjp770 (31/8/14)

Local electrical wholesaler. Its an NHP steel panel, about $120-$150. Look hard though, I found some for $30 but couldn't pick them up.


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## sjp770 (7/9/14)

Mostly finished the panel now. Did a test run of one element and ran two batches of boiling water through the boil kettle. I then used the water with some cold water to cycle through the lot with some TSP.

Only things to do on the panel is fix the temp probes on the first two vessels as they aren't reading right, look at why the element indicator lights arent turning on and do the amp / volt meter once I buy them again.

Here's a pic of the rolling boil


----------



## Camo6 (7/9/14)

I wired up my 'element on' leds off the switching circuit fro pid to ssr with 240v leds not realising the output was only 12v. Duh.
Build looks to be coming along nicely mate. Look forward to the completed pics.


----------



## mb-squared (7/9/14)

looking very good. keen to see your finished project!


----------



## sjp770 (8/9/14)

Here's a pic


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## sjp770 (8/9/14)

Thanks Chris. Bit of a weird place to advertise, someone's personal build thread but I'll forgive you if you head over to theelectricbrewery.com and check out their labels. We have another her member that purchased that complete set from the states for $55usd delivered. Beat that and make it a standard package price and I'll add it to the first page of my thread when I go back through and itemize every cost for the setup thus far.


Otherwise... Choose your advertising spots more carefully is all I can say there.


----------



## Superoo (8/9/14)

Thanks for the info mate and sorry for the weird placing, I thought this was the correct spot.

I'll go over to that thread and do so, and will look at the pricing.

Am just removing my post now...

thanks again...

Chris


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## sjp770 (8/9/14)

No probs, I'm keen to see what pricing you come up with. I do need a set of labels! Note it should be adapted for Aussie use (240v in)

Its working !!






I need to straighten up the switches too. Also order the panel meters.


Well I did some troubleshooting and fixed my element lights (I'd mixed up neutrals - hot from light one went to element output 1, but neutral went to element 2). Also the alarms weren't working as I needed to wire hot to the COM pin on each PID. Confusing as com was neutral on the timer. Might fix that when I tidy the cable up.

Here is a video with the alarm going





Only need 7m of heavy duty silicone tube now before I can brew.


----------



## sjp770 (13/9/14)

OK its brew time! 

Pre boil SG is 1.040, expected 1.046, but I have no Litre markings in my vessels yet so I think that's pretty good.
Last runnings from sparge : expected 1.010, actual 1.016

Time to boil!


----------



## sjp770 (13/9/14)

So when I took grab from the dregs it was 1.062... Far to high.

Such a small batch doesn't come up to the temp probe of either the boil kettle or the fermenter..

My immersion chiller was ineffective due to the low level of the wort and the higher placement of the heater. I ended up dumping the wort into the fermenter at 50c. Its chilling down now before I oxygenate it then dump the yeast. I completely forgot the whirlfloc too..

It will be a miracle if the beer makes it! But hey, its my first.


----------



## sjp770 (13/9/14)

Got the temp down to about 25c so I went to aerate it with O2, when I touched the blow off tube it sucked up the sanitizing water into the fermenter.. not sure how much if any got it. 

Anyway, no point stopping now. I bubbled O2 for a minute and the dumped the yeast. Ive set it to ferment at 18c, i'll check tomorrow if it needs a heater as well. I still need to flash my STC1000 to the plus version so I can try to heat and cool.


----------



## sjp770 (14/9/14)

Ordered the last parts for the panel. I grabbed replacement meters while eBay had a 15% off sale.

Also grabbed some rails from bunnings for the panel. Not the same as kals but stainless all the same.


----------



## sjp770 (14/9/14)

Some pics. In the last one you can see the dodgy temp probe placement.


----------



## sjp770 (15/9/14)

Fermentation has started, it was at 11c this morning and bubbling slowly. I realized I had dumped 15g of citra at 40 mins instead of 20 mins so it will be a fair bit more bitter I guess.

I'm rigging up a heater at lunch today with the stc1000. The controller I had setup was a cool only one, so I'll replace it and hopefully fermentation gets more aggressive up near 18c


Oh, and if I lost too much in the boil and my abv is too high at the end can I add boiling water to the sanitized keg, seal it, wait for it to cool before transferring to bring it down to normal?


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## a1149913 (15/9/14)

Good read man, usually make up lost volume into the fermenter before fermentation starts.

J


----------



## sjp770 (15/9/14)

ahh, next time hey. Should have extracted a bit more from the grain as the end sg was a tad higher than expected.


----------



## TheWiggman (15/9/14)

Nothing wrong with adding it afterwards if you know the amount but it needs to be (or should be) deoxygenated water. The big brewers do this. Do a search for 'high gravity ferment'.
But yeah, easier to do it in the fermenter.

ED: Good details here - http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/40747-crown-lager-clone/?p=575761


----------



## sjp770 (16/9/14)

Cheers, that may come in handy.

Got the stc 1000 up and running, set it to 18c with 1.5 differential. (It didn't stay like the pic)

Also managed to buy some nice stainless handles at bunnings. I have the receipt somewhere but the 6 handles set me back $50 or so.


----------



## rockeye84 (17/9/14)

Hey bro, great read so far, glad its all coming together for you.

Did you get your meters going?


----------



## sjp770 (17/9/14)

They are in the post as we speak. Still waiting on one lm317 to arrive as well. I'll chase that up now, once the meters are in I'll be 100% done with the panel.


----------



## sjp770 (18/9/14)

6 days in. No infection, SG 1.021


----------



## sjp770 (25/9/14)

Two weeks in. 1.019 SG. Chilled it down and it actually tastes OK.

Will rack it off to the keg on Saturday, might crash it to 0c Friday night.

Also I have my next brew lined up! Hahahahaha I'm a bit mad and didnt think the first one would make it. This next brew will address the biggest issue in my last brew, the volume wasn't enough!

Here is the grain ready for Sundays brew, and the hops... Oh the hops


----------



## sjp770 (27/9/14)

So I've transferred to the keg and I'm waiting on force carb to calm down. 

I thought the volume was off lol


----------



## mofox1 (30/9/14)

How is the Auber "Timer for Beer Brewing" going?

It looks the goods, plenty of programmable events, reset button on the front (no additional push button needed) and simple relay output.. to light up the alarm when needed.

It's US$58 to get it here ($42+$16ph), so I'll wait and pick it up when the aussie dollar recovers a bit (or next time I do some drink & buying).

Unless there are eBay alternates?


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## sjp770 (30/9/14)

It worked really good. I need to understand the hop additions better though.


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## sjp770 (30/9/14)

Beer is inside and going, however the bronco tap uses 6mm tube which by rights should be 5m long. I have it at 0c and 12psi but all I get is foam. I upgraded the old chest freezer to digital with a TLZ10 controller I had left over from a Sfiligoi fish tank chiller.


----------



## sjp770 (4/10/14)

Planning a big 40L Pale ale batch tomorrow. Need to clean all the gear first so I might fit it all in or I might clean and then give up lol.got some more beer line, a refractometer, two buckets, 3x measuring jugs today. Still waiting on the sight glasses to show.


----------



## sjp770 (5/10/14)

Quite the day.. All seemed to go well though


----------



## sjp770 (6/10/14)

Help!!

So I dumped the yeast yesterday at about 18c, and I go to check on it today and I find the STC-1000 was still set to 1.5c! It hadn't programmed it correctly. Would the yeast be dead? Can I just add a new batch of yeast in a few days if it doesn't start to ferment?


----------



## mofox1 (6/10/14)

Nah - just warm it back to 18c.

They were cooled down slowly, so they won't be shocked. Should just pick up again once they get back to their "active" range. You'll have an increased risk of another yeast/bacteria becoming dominant in the mean time, but that can't be helped at the moment.

Relax, don't worry... yada yada.


----------



## sjp770 (6/10/14)

Cheers for that. It was at 9c this arvo its warming up slowly.


----------



## mofox1 (6/10/14)

That seems to be taking a long time... Do you have a heater (belt/lamp/etc) in there?


----------



## sjp770 (7/10/14)

40w incandescent bulb. I'll look at a belt on Wednesday. Its bubbling slowing today, is there a chance I killed some yeast? What would happen if I added two packets again?


----------



## mofox1 (7/10/14)

"No yeast died in the cooling of this wort...." (well, none that shouldn't have anyway).

40w should be plenty fine... any more and you'll just get bigger temp swings during a normal ferment. I suppose I'm not usually trying to warm it up by 18*, usually just from ~12 (ambient garage cube temp) to 18.

I'd say there's no point adding more yeast. You've already got 2 packets worth in there and it sounds like it's already active anyway. Feel free to ignore me if it's not going nuts tomorrow


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## sjp770 (7/10/14)

Cheers. Its bubbling away at 1 bubble per second right now. 12mm tube or so


----------



## sjp770 (8/10/14)

OK its up to 3-5 bubbles per second today so it seems to be nice and active


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## sjp770 (8/10/14)

BTW, I installed the amp meter with a new lm317 and the 240-12vac transformer and it blew the same as the other one. I give up, I think I might slap a name plate over the two holes, the brew goes fine without them but the holes are there  so I need to cover them up.


----------



## zappa (8/10/14)

sjp770 said:


> BTW, I installed the amp meter with a new lm317 and the 240-12vac transformer and it blew the same as the other one. I give up, I think I might slap a name plate over the two holes, the brew goes fine without them but the holes are there  so I need to cover them up.


I could be missing something here, but why would you be using a transformer with your ammeter? To measure current, your load just needs to travel through it. There's no active+neutral. Just active/line/hot (whatever you want to call it).


----------



## seamad (8/10/14)

Why do you even want an ammeter ?


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## seehuusen (8/10/14)

x2 on wiring of your amp meter, sounds like there is a fault there?

You want an amp meter only if you're so inclined to find out the draw of your system. That way you can calculate the real cost of brewing, not just count it as _"Free"_
E.g. I run gas, and I use about 2.5Kg for a brew, at say $1.50 it probably doesn't make a massive impact, but if I get swap and go, it's instantly about 6 or 7 bux that I've got to add to the total cost of brew.


----------



## mofox1 (8/10/14)

It's the ammeter power supply.

But yeah - the electric brewery seriously overcomplicated that one. I got one as per barney in this post (cheers barney - belated post "like" for you!).

No transformers. No DC rectifiers. No shunt resistors. And both voltage and amps on the same panel.


----------



## mofox1 (8/10/14)

seamad said:


> Why do you even want an ammeter ?


Bling.

Big, badass, control panel bling.


----------



## zappa (8/10/14)

Ah I see. I reckon an analog ammeter would look far more industrial ;-) Simple addition too.


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## sjp770 (8/10/14)

My issue now is the holes I cut for these meters. There is something fineky about the meters. Both are 5v supply and I supply that OK bit when I connect the metering side it seems to arc across??? Weird stuff. So I think they are referred to a 3&1/2 din or something. I'd love some analog ones though.


----------



## seamad (8/10/14)

You could always glue a backing bit in and then glue the cutout ( if you still have it) or something of similar thickness then bog it and repaint.


----------



## rockeye84 (8/10/14)

Get em goin bro, seriously ain't as hard as u think, here's a few pics of how I wired mine, 240v to 5v transformer thru the isolation module then to the amp & volt meters, the voltage reading comes straight from my hot bus, amp reading straight from the shunt, they never miss a beat, but with out the little black thing I blew my amp meter straight up as well. Plus they let you know that your elements are running properly, I've had an element go mid brew, having the amp meter there I picked it up straight away and they look cool lol. [

attachment=75417:ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1412769933.895799.jpg]


----------



## rockeye84 (8/10/14)

Accidentally forgot this pix


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## sjp770 (8/10/14)

Isolation module? This might be the bit I'm missing. I don't think its hard at all but that may just be the bit of info I was missing. Do you run both from the same 5v supply? Also can you link your meters? Black surrounds are much nicer than the gray and green of the only ones I could find.


----------



## rockeye84 (9/10/14)

Yeh mate, 1 psu 2 meters, that little black thing splits the power so the meters don't see a common earth, that's what cause's them to self destruct. 

I painted the faces of my meters with the black tinted lacquer ya use to darken tail lights on cars. They look better black I recon. 

If you whack two of these (eBay # 251525262146 ) one each inline between your psu & meters, assuming your power supply & meters are 12v. 

It's hard to see in the pic but there are two isolators soldered together. 

Mine are 5v not sure why I went for a 5volt system but anyway. 

I scratched up a shitty diagram for you, this is how mine are wired. 

Hope u get it sorted mate.


----------



## sjp770 (9/10/14)

Thanks! I'll order two now and a replacement ammeter. Good idea with the tail light paint.


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## sjp770 (9/10/14)

Meters are 5v so I found a 10-16v in 5v out but they only had one available. There was a discussion on the electric brewery site about why the need for two power supplies and the isolation was raised but they never gave a shit about stopping it. Always thought it was stupid using two power supplies when they take the same voltage.


----------



## mofox1 (9/10/14)

rockeye84 said:


> Get em goin bro, seriously ain't as hard as u think, here's a few pics of how I wired mine, 240v to 5v transformer thru the isolation module then to the amp & volt meters, the voltage reading comes straight from my hot bus, amp reading straight from the shunt, they never miss a beat, but with out the little black thing I blew my amp meter straight up as well. Plus they let you know that your elements are running properly, I've had an element go mid brew, having the amp meter there I picked it up straight away and they look cool lol. [
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Uhng. That is a fantastic piece of brewgasm right there rockeye.

Like the use of the separate alarm for timer and pids. Consider the idea shamelessly appropriated.


----------



## rockeye84 (9/10/14)

Thanks mofo. I like it too. Lol. It's a pleasure to brew with. Bout 40 batches so far with no hiccups.


----------



## rockeye84 (9/10/14)

sjp770 said:


> Meters are 5v so I found a 10-16v in 5v out but they only had one available. There was a discussion on the electric brewery site about why the need for two power supplies and the isolation was raised but they never gave a shit about stopping it. Always thought it was stupid using two power supplies when they take the same voltage.


So you have a 12v psu but your meters are 5v?


----------



## sjp770 (9/10/14)

240ac-12ac into a LM317 which takes 10-36v either ac or DC and pumps out variable DC only. Set this to 5v and you have your DC, but you can drop the volts a bit with a pot on the LM317 to dim the readout. Won't be able to to that with your isolator.


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## rockeye84 (9/10/14)

Why do you need to dim the brightness of you meters?


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## sjp770 (9/10/14)

The ability to was nice. Don't need to though so I won't miss it.


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## sjp770 (10/10/14)

Hey rockeye, could you link the transformer you used?


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## rockeye84 (10/10/14)

I have a spare one hanging around somewhere. I originally purchased two thinking I would need it. Don't think I'm ever going to use it. If I can find it I will cod post it 2 ya. Ie. Free transformer u pay the postage. I'll have a look around 2moz.


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## rockeye84 (10/10/14)

Or this is the exact one I used..
120922542058 eBay 

If you are going to switch to a 5volt psu you should use these as isolators.
281463165342 eBay

My isolators are 5v in 5v out.


----------



## rockeye84 (11/10/14)

Or just keep your 12v supply and use these to isolate & step down to 5v to run you meters m.

290562102703


----------



## sjp770 (11/10/14)

rockeye84 said:


> Or this is the exact one I used..
> 120922542058 eBay
> 
> If you are going to switch to a 5volt psu you should use these as isolators.
> ...


Thanks for that. I just bought the power supply and 2x isolators. I grabbed one of the earlier listed isolators but they only had one. 

It will be great to have this part of the panel finished.


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## rockeye84 (11/10/14)

Post a pic when she's fully operational


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## sjp770 (15/10/14)

So the brew is at a week and a half and its sitting at 1.024 and was that three days ago.. Thoughts?


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## mb-squared (15/10/14)

warm it up, gently stir, add a little bit of boiled sugar solution as a kickstarter, and cross your fingers...


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## TheWiggman (15/10/14)

Might be a little more complex than that Matto.

What was the grain bill? Lager or Ale? Fermentation temps? Pitching rate?

All these will have an affect on rate and/or FG. For example my lager is at 2 weeks and is sitting around 1.019. Still has 9 points to go.

Ed: lest we forget yeast type and mash schedule. A consistently high FG could be the result of improper temperature measurement, which is definitely a risk with HERMS.


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## sjp770 (15/10/14)

When the yeast was dumped at 18c the whole batch was accidentally cooled to 1c... Then it was brought slowly back to fermentation temps. 

Maybe not all the yeast survived? The recipe was an American Pale Ale Citra (scaled up) from beersmith.


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## Pokey (17/10/14)

Probably a bit late but why not buy equipment that uses the same voltage instead of putting all that other crap in?


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## sjp770 (17/10/14)

Yeah. A bit late.


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## Hawko777 (20/10/14)

&nbsp;


sjp770 said:


> Another iBrew order arrived: copper immersion chiller which will double as Herm's coil for now, blichmann brewery gloves and a bronco tap for my first pour. I'll add a font and taps later.
> 
> Also bit the bullet and grabbed this Chronical 64L fermenter.


&nbsp;

That fermenter is so blinging sweet. I want one but it has to be jacketed and I would have to sell the mother in law to buy it.
How much was that conical?


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## sjp770 (20/10/14)

$799 

Maybe you want a brew bucket with jacket?


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## Hawko777 (20/10/14)

WoW sjp770
That's fecking choice.
Do tell where to buy etc.
Is that jacketed with glycol cooling or just a insulating cover.
I wouldn't have room in a fermenting fridge for this. That's why jacket is a must.

Just found them. Unfortunately they don't do a 16 Gallon(60litre) FTS system but it wouldn't be difficult to do.


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## sjp770 (21/10/14)

So I'm thoroughly confused. My hydrometer reads 1.009, my Refractometer reads 1.024...?? Weird.


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## TheWiggman (21/10/14)

That old chestnut.
The presence of alcohol will cause a false reading on a refractometer. Do a web search for 'Refractometer OG-alcohol correction' and check out the charts. Use these to find your true SG using a refractometer.


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## sjp770 (21/10/14)

So what do I do now? If its at 1.009 and not moving after two weeks should a pitch another sachet of yeast or oxygenate it?


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## Camo6 (21/10/14)

Don't oxygenate whatever you do. 1009 for two weeks sounds done to me unless it's a saison or similar. I use my refractometer for pre ferment readings and a hydrometer for final gravities as I can't seem to get the conversions right.


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## sjp770 (21/10/14)

So isn't that really low alcohol?


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## Camo6 (21/10/14)

Haven't read back but what were the original gravities?


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## sjp770 (21/10/14)

Ahh, now that I punch that into beer smith it says measured ABV is 5.4%


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## Camo6 (21/10/14)

Sounds ready to go then. Keg or bottle that sucker and let us all know how it turns out.


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## sjp770 (21/10/14)

Thanks wiggman and camo  yeah I've got two kegs that need a wash. Didn't have much luck with force carb but that was only on 10L or so from my first brew.

What's a good pressure to leave it at for a week? And how should I store the keg I'm not drinking?


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## TheWiggman (21/10/14)

For an ale, 70 kPa for at least a week.
To speed it up, 220 kPa for 48h then drop back to serving pressure. Remember it has to be chilled for it to carbonate properly.


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## Camo6 (21/10/14)

If you can, keep both kegs cold while you carb them. For balanced carbonation I'd leave them at close to serving pressure for a week or so. There's a chart or a link somewhere in the articles section I think. I tend to use Ross's forced carb method most of the time but err on the side of caution and allow them a couple more days at serving pressures to come good.
If you store your second keg outside of the fridge I'd make sure it's carbed first so it doesn't draw in outside atmosphere.


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## sjp770 (21/10/14)

Cool. I'll do the 70kPa for a week as I'll be away from home for that long, then when I get back I can crack into it 

I can store both in the fridge if I move the CO2 out of the fridge.


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## mofox1 (22/10/14)

You can google for force carbonation pressure charts... If you do it at ambient temp you'll need a higher pressure. Doesn't use more gas, it's just that lower temps absorb the co2 easier. 
My fridge is full so I carbed mine at ambient at 170 kpa (or there abouts). Once it is cold in the fridge I'll hook it up at serving pressure and it will be good to go.
Or so my experience with a sum total of 3 kegs tells me.

One of the many useful tools at brewers friend, although you'll need to convert from psi: http://www.brewersfriend.com/keg-carbonation-calculator/


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## sjp770 (22/10/14)

So the keg king regulator has psi and bar on the guage. I had my last beer sitting at 12-14psi for serving.. Is it really going to carbonate at 7.5-10psi? 




that's my guage.


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## jonnir (22/10/14)

My experience is limited sjp770 but this is what happened to me.

My first keg i force carbed, overcarbed it. Nothing but head so won't be doing force carb again any time soon. Second time around i just set my regulator to 12/14psi and it carbed up perfectly, as i got further and further into the keg it started pouring alot of head again. I found out from friends that as the beer lowers the gas is forcing itself in more. I think that has something to do with "balancing".

Anyway, since i've set my reg at about 8/10 psi haven't had those issues. Saying that i'm only into my third keg

Good luck!


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## sjp770 (22/10/14)

Pics from transfer day. Got a bit over 1 & 1/2 kegs from one brew.


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## sjp770 (22/10/14)

What's the general consensus? When you transfer do you remove the lid entirely to see if there is mold or do you just pull the bung / blow off tube so pressure equalizes with minimal exposure?

I ask because there was a but of a purpley looking patch in the high krausen ring in the fermenter and I didn't see it until all the beer was transferred into the kegs. If there were any weird floaties they must have made it into keg #2 even though it looked clear going in, at least until I hit the sediment. Would it have been better to get the lid all the way off and if there were any weird floaties just draw off the fermented beer from below being careful not to suck any up?


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## TheWiggman (23/10/14)

sjp770 said:


> So the keg king regulator has psi and bar on the guage. I had my last beer sitting at 12-14psi for serving.. Is it really going to carbonate at 7.5-10psi?
> 
> 
> 
> that's my guage.


10psi = 6.9 bar (68.9 kPa), so given time yes it will. If you want it fizzier then go for it.
I've noticed you use °C for temperature and litres for volume. Stick with bar or kPa for pressure. :icon_cheers:


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## rockeye84 (23/10/14)

Don't you mean 10psi = 0.69 bar?


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## sjp770 (23/10/14)

Thought that was wrong.


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## TheWiggman (23/10/14)

... yes I did. Damn metric system (though bar isn't actually an SI unit)


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## sjp770 (25/10/14)

So thoughts on these pics? Is it all OK?


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## seehuusen (25/10/14)

looks like the line of yeast in a fermenter to me...


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## sjp770 (25/10/14)

Just wondering about the colour? The rest of the line is fine.


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## Crouch (25/10/14)

What about the colour worries you ... looks like hop oil to me


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## sjp770 (25/10/14)

Cool. It was a purple tinge that got me thinking.


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## sjp770 (6/11/14)

So its all done and pouring. Still working on the carbonation but I have a bigger issue, the beer is a lot more bitter than I'd like. Is there anything that can be done at this late stage?


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## mofox1 (6/11/14)

You could blend it with another brew (obviously one that is much less bitter).

No idea how feasible this is once kegged and carbed. I've only done it half/half mixed in the jug from two separate kegs.


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## Crouch (6/11/14)

I've found that some of my beers that are bitter to start with, mellow after some aging ... or after the first 5


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## Hawko777 (17/11/14)

&nbsp;


sjp770 said:


> More purchases today:
> 
> From eBay
> 
> ...


&nbsp;

Hi
R U sure they are the correct Relay's?
Those ones are 28vdc coils whereas the items on ElectricBrewery.com state to use 240vdc coil.
I'm in the process of ordering so please, any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## sjp770 (17/11/14)

Look back through.. I corrected it. Maybe mods can remove that link? I'll find the real link I sent on in a PM and report back.

Edit: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220VAC-80A-DPDT-Power-Relay-Motor-Control-Screw-Mount/1482936491.html


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## mofox1 (17/11/14)

Hawko777 said:


> Hi
> R U sure they are the correct Relay's?
> Those ones are 28vdc coils whereas the items on ElectricBrewery.com state to use 240vdc coil.
> I'm in the process of ordering so please, any help would be greatly appreciated.


Build it however you design it. I went with 240VAC coils, but then as opposed to SJP I'm not doing any low volt stuff (with the exception of the pid SSR output of course).

Make sure you know what each component does, and how it fits into the whole picture.

All my stuff is yet to be assembled... About $600 or so worth of parts, all as mechanically and electrically tested as I could manage, just waiting for me to finalise the layout (to work around existing posts etc in the panel).

Hopefully I'll do a build thread to do it justice, if people aren't sick of these by now! 

But yeah, take your time, plan it right. And good luck!


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## sjp770 (17/11/14)

Agreed. I wish I didn't have the metres in mine. You can see the changes I did re layout and connectors (two 10A sockets). Remember you can make it do anything you want.


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## sjp770 (4/12/14)

So the third brew came out today. I'd say I got about 36L out in the end. ABV is 5.2%, bitterness is under control but it tastes quite grainy.. Like the smell of the pilsner grain I used. The other brews didnt have that and were more "beery"..? Will it settle out over time?


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## sjp770 (6/5/15)

Bit of an update, its been a while but the last brew I spoke about above went down really well. Took a keg to a 1st Birthday party and all the Dads loved it. Even some of the mums! Comments like "I'd buy this" or "I dont drink beer but this is amazing". It really made sharing it worthwhile. The whole keg went in only about 2 hours.

I finally have another brew on, this session was much better as I didnt spend half the day making sure everything was triple cleaned and perfect until everything after the boil stage. I also bought 8m of Heavy duty silicone tubing which was better than the light duty stuff.

Before i brewed I also installed sight glasses and calibrated it. SO much easier fly sparging.

Next improvements will be a propper 70L stainless pot for the boil stage. Also maybe a 30L one for smaller batches.

Pumps need to be replaced, I had to back flush multiple times while mashing.


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## sjp770 (23/11/16)

Got a Citra Smash brew through the other day. Turned out amazing but the ABV was about 6.5% due to me just rounding up the grain amount to 10kg of Marris otter. Great to drink but after about 2-3L in a session it hits you. I have a 75L SS Brewtech boil kettle on order which will mean I'll be able to increase the grain (there is space in the mash Tun) and increase the final boil volume to make more use of the big 64L fermenter. I'll aim for 4-5% next time but I'm going to do the same Citra Smash... Might dry hop with galaxy though.

Got the go ahead to start a brewery shed next year too  just need to make it pretty and open onto an outdoor entertaining area.

Also worth noting I acquired a D size O2 bottle for fermentation aeration. Wasn't that expensive and the tradeflame bottle had failed on me after one or two uses.


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## sjp770 (23/11/16)

Oh, and I ended up with two stainless keg king pump Tops after a shipping error so there's that too


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