# Element Question



## Moad (6/1/15)

Have been reading up on elements and there have been a few threads here and there about various elements.

Just wondering if this would be suitable for 1v (50L keg but single batches).

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02913-Screw-In-Foldback-Element/dp/B001Q4CW4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420511212&sr=1-1&keywords=3500w+camco

It says ultra low density...

Would I be better off just getting one of the 2400w copper elements rather than stuffing around with wiring and housing etc with this one?


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## Pokey (6/1/15)

That element would require a 15 amp outlet.


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## Moad (6/1/15)

I've got a 20Amp circuit for this project


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## squirt in the turns (6/1/15)

For a single batch (meaning ~20 L?) one 2400W element would probably be sufficient to maintain a good boil. But if you want to ramp up the temperature faster, the element you linked will obviously help. You could easily dial back the power once it's boiling with a duty-cycle system such as a PID controller with an SSR or even a normal mechanical relay. You'll also be grateful for the more powerful element if you ever decide to do larger batches.


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## Moad (6/1/15)

Yeh 20L

Can you manually dial the Auber ramp/soak PID to a % of output?


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## squirt in the turns (6/1/15)

Moad said:


> Yeh 20L
> 
> Can you manually dial the Auber ramp/soak PID to a % of output?


I don't have one (I have a non ramp/soak cheapo Sestos PID which does have a duty cycle option), but I don't think the Auber ramp/soak model has that capability. The Auber website says it "has all the features of the standard PID controller (except the manual control mode)" which maybe means it doesn't. Might be worth dropping them an email to confirm.

It's a pretty useful feature. I have two 2400 W elements and for a ~50 L pre-boil volume, once it's boiling, I duty cycle one at 50%. So between the 2 elements that's 75% of the total possible output to maintain a nice rolling boil. That's roughly equal to the 3500 W element you're looking at so for a 20 L batch you'd want to dial it back somehow or you'd probably be boiling to vigorously.


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## neo__04 (6/1/15)

pretty sure there is a auberins model that has manual mode.

I have one, which i dont really use, but i remember upon getting mine setup, i purchased the one without manual mode.... Doh!


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## jonnir (6/1/15)

If you have 20A available moad have a look at this one

http://www.stilldragon.com.au/4800-watt-element-ultra-low-density/

Local to!


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## Bomber Watson (6/1/15)

Keep in mind a controller/fan will chew a bit of your 20 amps, so running that and the controller might be pushing it. 

Im setting my gear up with a 3600w 5 star distilling element and a stilldragon controller.


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## Moad (6/1/15)

It's not so much the big wattage I am after. 

I think 3000w is enough with a little insulation... trying to get away with the element cheap but if I have to spend a little more I will.

My mate who I am doing the build with is an electrician so wiring up is not an issue.

I've purchased the ramp/soak from auber as I really want to be able to program it and walk away. I may decide to build a mathos controller further down the track.

Cheers for the responses


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## Moad (6/1/15)

squirt in the turns said:


> I don't have one (I have a non ramp/soak cheapo Sestos PID which does have a duty cycle option), but I don't think the Auber ramp/soak model has that capability. The Auber website says it "has all the features of the standard PID controller (except the manual control mode)" which maybe means it doesn't. Might be worth dropping them an email to confirm.
> 
> It's a pretty useful feature. I have two 2400 W elements and for a ~50 L pre-boil volume, once it's boiling, I duty cycle one at 50%. So between the 2 elements that's 75% of the total possible output to maintain a nice rolling boil. That's roughly equal to the 3500 W element you're looking at so for a 20 L batch you'd want to dial it back somehow or you'd probably be boiling to vigorously.


I was thinking about getting a single 2400W and if it doesn't boil off enough grab another 1500w. Use the 1500w with the PID and just flick the 2400w for ramping/boil.

Wondering if there would be a way to wire it with some kind of pot <? or something to vary the power after the PID. Something for blokes who know more about electricity than me


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## brewermp (6/1/15)

I'm not sure if someone has mentioned it but have you seen this one?

http://kegking.com.au/magento/heating-cooling-equipment/2200-watt-stainless-steel-heating-element.html 

Works well. I am only doing small 30l batches. I will get another over the side element to give it a boost though if I go bigger


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## Moad (6/1/15)

Yeah I think 22200is just short of what I need. 

Guess no one uses the camco?


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## QldKev (6/1/15)

Moad said:


> I was thinking about getting a single 2400W and if it doesn't boil off enough grab another 1500w. Use the 1500w with the PID and just flick the 2400w for ramping/boil.
> 
> Wondering if there would be a way to wire it with some kind of pot <? or something to vary the power after the PID. Something for blokes who know more about electricity than me



Sure can, you just need a voltage controller. Think of it as a light dimmer on steroids. Pretty cheap to setup, should take a sparky bugger all time to hook it up.


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## QldKev (6/1/15)

brewermp said:


> I'm not sure if someone has mentioned it but have you seen this one?
> 
> http://kegking.com.au/magento/heating-cooling-equipment/2200-watt-stainless-steel-heating-element.html
> 
> Works well. I am only doing small 30l batches. I will get another over the side element to give it a boost though if I go bigger



that's the last element I would recommend. search for "keg king elements" on here


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## Moad (6/1/15)

Thanks Kev I think you did mention that before.

Any element advice?


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## brewermp (6/1/15)

QldKev said:


> that's the last element I would recommend. search for "keg king elements" on here


I just read your post and its two years old. Have you had issues with the recent one as I have heard that they have been fully rebuilt.


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## sp0rk (7/1/15)

brewermp said:


> I just read your post and its two years old. Have you had issues with the recent one as I have heard that they have been fully rebuilt.


There's been some people complaining even of late about the new models
As soon as mine goes bang, it'll be getting replaced with a 5 star element


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## QldKev (7/1/15)

brewermp said:


> I just read your post and its two years old. Have you had issues with the recent one as I have heard that they have been fully rebuilt.


I've heard their bullshit claims many times on many of their crap products. I even got suckered into buying two of their newer models which "fixed all the issues", both are now in the bin after failing.


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## barls (7/1/15)

Might be worth pointing out that they don't have certification for use in Australia ether. 
Asked them about 8 months ago on here and been ignored


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## QldKev (7/1/15)

Moad said:


> Thanks Kev I think you did mention that before.
> 
> Any element advice?


I think the Camco sounds decent. I have not used them, but The Electric Brewery has been recommending them for a long time so I can only guess they are reliable. I do have a couple of the 5star elements for another hobby and they have been reliable.


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## Moad (7/1/15)

ok cheers, might see if I can find a lower wattage.

The 5 star looks good but it gets up around $100 with bits and pieces


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## QldKev (7/1/15)

Moad said:


> ok cheers, might see if I can find a lower wattage.
> 
> The 5 star looks good but it gets up around $100 with bits and pieces


With the power available I would look at the higher wattage and get a volt controller, they are not that expensive to build and are very handy to have.


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