# Home Brand Lager



## Zipster (2/6/11)

Hi there,

I have brewed lately with 2 cans at the same time. 1 Morgan's Stout chairman selection with S23 yeast and 1 Home brand lager kit, with yeast provided. The temperature variates roughly between 10 and 22 degrees here, and I am specifically brewing lager because of the lows.

My observation is that the Stout with S23 was going nice in its own room at 12c for the first few days then the bubbles off the air lock stated stalling so I moved it to the living room where it is 22c between 5pm till 12am and the bubbles came back nicely. Now we are near the end of fermentation, the Home brand still bubbles even when the wood stove is off. The S23 Stout just stalls and gravity is still 1020 after 10 days and you still can taste the sugar. Home brand stuff is just going like a beauty even if on the can they recommend 22c, it is now 13c and it's bubbling.

My mate's dad told us that the home brand kits were the best, now I'm starting to think he was spot on..

.z


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## Zipster (2/6/11)

anyone experienced S23 saflager and had a steady fermentation within the 11-15c range?


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## Bribie G (2/6/11)

OK I'll get in first before the onslaught  

Never trust your airlock - gas will find every possible route out of the fermenter, it's what gas does

S-23 is a lager yeast and will ferment just fine at low to mid teens, and should go ok in a stout as well (Guinness brewed in Australia is done on a lager yeast). However I wonder why you used S-23? did it come with the kit? The Mauribrew yeast that comes with the Morgans kits is quite a good all purpose yeast and especially as you have somewhat inaccurate temp control would probably have suited the brew better, and use the S-23 on the supermarket kit which probably comes with Gawd knows what yeast.


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## Zipster (2/6/11)

BribieG said:


> Never trust your airlock - gas will find every possible route out of the fermenter, it's what gas does.



The gas comes out where it finds the less resistance. If the bucket is sealed, the gas will be conducted to the less resistant passage, the airlock. Even if there are small holes that you cant see the gas will still get out via the airlock. I am positive. So unless you have a story of someone that has experienced a fermentation that occurred without airlock making any sound, it will still be for me: no sound, no fermentation as long as the sugar must be producing CO2 of transforming into alcohol.

I bought the S23 separately. The can of Morgan came with a pack of Brew Cellar "English Ale Yeast". Of what I have heard about other yeast than lager is that they need at least 20c to be active, so I chose to use lager yeast instead.

The supermarket kit comes with Gawd know what yeast but it works fantastic! Have you even tried a home brand kit?


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## Mick74 (2/6/11)

Zipster said:


> So unless you have a story of someone that has experienced a fermentation that occurred without airlock making any sound, it will still be for me: no sound, no fermentation as long as the sugar must be producing CO2 of transforming into alcohol.



Personally, I haven't used an airlock for a long time as I prefer the ease of glad wrap. I think you will find that there are more stories of fermentation occuring without the airlock making any sound than you'd care to hear.

As BribieG said - Never trust your airlock B)


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## ekul (2/6/11)

the gas will choose the path of least resistance, and if the barrel is sealed then this will be the airlock. HOwever frequently these barrels don't seal, and then the path of least resistance is just leaking through the seal. Do a search for 'help, my airlock isn't bubbling', i'm sure you'll find a few threads. 

Also, if you like drinking home brand tins, props to you. I wish i did, i could save myself a lot of time! If you like what you're drinking, then keep making it. I tried another brewers beer made from a homebrand draught tin a few weeks ago. It wasn't severely worse than any other kit that i've tried. Was def better than brigalow, thats for sure.


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## Lodan (2/6/11)

What other fermentables did you use in each kit?
It may be that the brew is at FG

Are the temps you listed the room temp or actual brew temps?

You may find that the S23 is struggling to chew through all fermentables; it's is often recommended to use two packs of S23 particularly in cold conditions (not that 12 is 'cold' by lager standards). You could try repitching with more S23?


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## Mayor of Mildura (2/6/11)

Hi dude i'm not exactly sure what this topic is about but i'll try and answer. 



Zipster said:


> So unless you have a story of someone that has experienced a fermentation that occurred without airlock making any sound, it will still be for me: no sound, no fermentation as long as the sugar must be producing CO2 of transforming into alcohol.



I've had a couple of ferments complete with no airlock activity. Not one single bubble. Turns out the rubber o-ring wasn't seated properly. My beer fermented and turned out fine though....plenty of co2 and alcohol produced. I have since given up on air locks and use glad wrap instead of a lid. To find out how the fermentation is progressing i use a hydrometer. 

To me the flavour of the finished beer is more important than how quickly it ferments. 

I have also experimented with fermenting beer with large changes in temperature and have endend up with off flavours. 

My mates dad spins all sorts of shit and i don't listen to him. 

cheers


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## bignath (2/6/11)

Zipster said:


> So unless you have a story of someone that has experienced a fermentation that occurred without airlock making any sound, it will still be for me: no sound, no fermentation as long as the sugar must be producing CO2 of transforming into alcohol.




It seems like every second post by inexperienced/uninformed brewers is:

"help, my airlock isn't bubbling therefore my brew must be fucked......"

The quote i've attached above, reads, TO ME like a crack at BribieG. He has a few runs on the board around here, and like several other frequent posters, his advise is generally considered words of wisdom. I'd listen to him if it was me.

Airlock activity doesn't mean shit about your fermentation. They don't always bubble when active fermentation is occuring, and they've also been well known to keep bubbling long after fermentation has finished.
Stick to the more accurate as opposed to the most obvious displays that fermentation is happening and your all sweet, but your quoted post reads like the voice of inexperience/ignorance.
There have been several "fly by nighters" on this forum that have had very similar forum names to yours, and have stirred up a heap of shit. Hope this isn't going the same way.


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## dougsbrew (2/6/11)

mayor of mildura said:


> My mates dad spins all sorts of shit and i don't listen to him.
> 
> cheers



nice touch mayor. i suppose its like a bit of carp - throw enough oil and salt at it, and it will taste reasonably good.


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## fawnroux (2/6/11)

Big Nath said:


> There have been several "fly by nighters" on this forum that have had very similar forum names to yours, and have stirred up a heap of shit.



Yeah, I think Zippo here is a good old fashion troll. His post contains the following pearlers

1. The classic "air lock isn't bubbling" query
2. Brewing a _stout_ with a _lager_ yeast at *22 degrees*
3. His mates old mate reckons homebrand beer is the best, and he agrees
4. Gives arrogent response to BribieG's post - He is _*positive *_no airlock activity means no fermentation. I mean, when you ferment stouts with lager yeasts at 22 degrees, why on earth would you listen to an experienced brewer trying to help?

I don't see this as a serious post.


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## yum beer (2/6/11)

Zipster said:


> My observation is that the Stout with S23 was going nice in its own room at 12c for the first few days then the bubbles off the air lock stated stalling so I moved it to the living room where it is 22c between 5pm till 12am and the bubbles came back nicely. Now we are near the end of fermentation, the Home brand still bubbles even when the wood stove is off. The S23 Stout just stalls and gravity is still 1020 after 10 days and you still can taste the sugar. Home brand stuff is just going like a beauty even if on the can they recommend 22c, it is now 13c and it's bubbling.
> 
> My mate's dad told us that the home brand kits were the best, now I'm starting to think he was spot on..
> 
> .z



You have clearly shown that you have very little idea of what you are trying to achieve, moving fermenters from one temp to another simply because an airlock isnt bubbling is verging on insanity.
Put them in an appropriate place to start with and leave them till they finish--may be 3-4 weeks for a lager.

You probably should check with your mates dad what brand of sugar he uses with his home brand cans, you wanna get that right.


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## Zipster (2/6/11)

Lodan said:


> What other fermentables did you use in each kit?
> It may be that the brew is at FG
> 
> Are the temps you listed the room temp or actual brew temps?
> ...



Lodan you're the man,

I use only one pack of S23, and yes the yeast is struggling, I can feel it. 2 packs? It would make sense. However have you noticed that with certain cans they would provide 15g and others only 5g.. I don't understand, some yeast would have more strength than others for some reason.. Would you know why?

Yes repitching is my plan, should I use the whole lot of my harvest to make just one bach? Or more?


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## bignath (3/6/11)

Zipster, i'm confused.

In your fist post you state that you are starting to believe that the homebrand cans are the best, but then in your post above you claim that it makes sense to use 2 packs of lager yeast whilst wondering why some companies give you 15g vs 5g.

It aint rocket science dude. The better quality cans will give you closer to the correct amount of yeast to pitch into your beer and at the same time it will be a better quality yeast. 

The homebrand cans give you 5g (or maybe 7g in some cases) 'cause they can't be rooted giving you what you need to make decent beer. What's more important to Coles and Woolies - selling homebrew cans at $6each and selling maybe a dozen a week, or selling a dozen trucks worth of milk at $1 a litre???

I am also assuming you know that just because a can says lager, it's most likely to be an ale yeast. I know you've also asked about s23 but i haven't used that one yet. Got a packet in my fridge though...


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## felten (3/6/11)

Ask enough questions fasty enough and you'll soon make a speedie route to being a great brewer.


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## pcmfisher (3/6/11)

Where's speedy, he should be able to answer all of your questions.

Speedy, speak up.............


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## kjparker (3/6/11)

pcmfisher said:


> Where's speedy, he should be able to answer all of your questions.
> 
> Speedy, speak up.............




He's right here. I'd bet he's the OP


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## pimpsqueak (3/6/11)

clueless said:


> He's right here. I'd bet he's the OP


+1

Or maybe his mates Dad is Speedie. He sounds like a bit of a cock.


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## Pennywise (3/6/11)

Zipster said:


> My mate's dad told us that the home brand kits were the best, now I'm starting to think he was spot on..
> 
> .z



:lol: Made my day that did, cheers...


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## manticle (3/6/11)

Zipster is a real bloke. I have met him.

I'm not sure he's great at reading or taking advice but I'm pretty certain he isn't trolling.


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## Yob (3/6/11)

clueless said:


> He's right here. I'd bet he's the OP




cant be his spelling and grammer are too good... 

regardless of content


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## Lodan (3/6/11)

Zipster said:


> I use only one pack of S23, and yes the yeast is struggling, I can feel it. 2 packs? It would make sense. However have you noticed that with certain cans they would provide 15g and others only 5g..



If pitching dry, cold and without a starter it is recommended to pitch two packets (When doing a lager). Cold temps, lot's of fermentables and small yeast 'amount' (looking for the right word here) tend to lead to stalled lager ferments.

Kit yeasts are typically 7g and ale, in some cases a mixture of lager and ale and in a couple cases lager.
Ale is normally provided as most conditions are conducive to brewing ales (mainly temperature but sometimes gravity).

My recommendation would be to purchase another packet of S23, make a yeast starter then add the yeast to the beer. Throwing a dry pack into a half fermented beer may shock the new yeast and not get you anywhere. There is some helpful advice in the article section i believe.

I still think you need to post your ingredients for that brew. If you added more fermentables than you thought you did or added less water you may find that 1020 is the FG or very close. Better to check that first i think

First and foremost


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## Pennywise (3/6/11)

Don't make a starter with dry yeasts, only rehydrate in warm water


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## HoppingMad (3/6/11)

A few things to point out to Zipster here, he appears to be fairly new to the zoo that is AHB.

- Bribie knows his stuff and has been posting here for ages. Everyone has different ways to brew but his advice is sound. Your response didn't appear to be trying to cause offence anyhow, but thought I'd point this out to those jumping in on this one.

- Lager yeasts like an S23 do tend to work better with two packs in as suggested. The standard rule is one pack ale yeast, or two packs lager yeast. Reason being you need a yeast cell count higher for a low temp ferment beer. Starters for lagers are generally recommended for this reason regardless of dry or liquid but you can rehydrate as suggested by Pennywise and you will still get a solid result. Dry Lager Yeasts do carry instructions from manufacturers just to rehydrate but you can work it either way to the same end. Again - plenty of ways to skin the cat.

- Homebrand kits are made for the lowest common denominator h34r: - that's why they're called homebrand. That's also why they would carry an all-purpose ale yeast (i'd suspect) that would take off fairly well at warm temps. Just because it takes off well and you get solid airlock bubbling doesn't mean the resulting beer will be awesome. The proof as they say is in the tasting. Yes I have brewed with Homebrand kits and they are over bittered in my opinion.

- A solid amount of bubbling airlock activity does not necessarily a good beer make. Often a slower ferment at a cooler temp can result in a cleaner result. Most commercial beers you would like brew this way. That's why they taste so clean.

Like all things everyone has their own way. Listen to all the monkeys in this zoo, then find your own path through the jungle. Good luck with it.  

Hopper.


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## Zipster (3/6/11)

manticle said:


> Zipster is a real bloke. I have met him.
> 
> I'm not sure he's great at reading or taking advice but I'm pretty certain he isn't trolling.



Mate, I have been involved in Internet forums of all sorts since 1997 and I always been called all sorts of names, I don't really take note of that anymore.

I take the advice I judge making sense, if it does not.. well I put it on the side. There is a lot of disinformation regarding every topic of anything you can think of, more than actual information.. did you know that.


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## manticle (3/6/11)

Bribie's advice is generally very sound.

My name for you is Zip.


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## big78sam (3/6/11)

Zipster said:


> Mate, I have been involved in Internet forums of all sorts since 1997 and I always been called all sorts of names, I don't really take note of that anymore.
> 
> I take the advice I judge making sense, if it does not.. well I put it on the side. There is a lot of disinformation regarding every topic of anything you can think of, more than actual information.. did you know that.



You could be right, but of course if you feel that way then why ask the question in the first place...

There is definitely misinformation on this forum and I would propose that some of your comments above have added to this. However, I'd suggest you listen to some of the very experienced brewers like Bribie for good information


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## Zipster (3/6/11)

Lodan said:


> If pitching dry, cold and without a starter it is recommended to pitch two packets (When doing a lager). Cold temps, lot's of fermentables and small yeast 'amount' (looking for the right word here) tend to lead to stalled lager ferments.


This is what I did, and that is what happened sir.



Lodan said:


> Kit yeasts are typically 7g and ale, in some cases a mixture of lager and ale and in a couple cases lager.


The yeast provided with that Stout kit was a 15g "English ale yeast" on the pack they recommended temperatures too high for the season.

Mixing yeasts? Now that's interesting, I suppose some would be more compatible than others am I right?



Lodan said:


> My recommendation would be to purchase another packet of S23, make a yeast starter then add the yeast to the beer. Throwing a dry pack into a half fermented beer may shock the new yeast and not get you anywhere. There is some helpful advice in the article section i believe.


There are no shops near where I am so I will filter the yeast I harvest from that stout when it's done. 



Lodan said:


> I still think you need to post your ingredients for that brew. If you added more fermentables than you thought you did or added less water you may find that 1020 is the FG or very close. Better to check that first i think


Well, 1 can of Morgan's Stout Chairman Selection, 1kg of plain sugar, 15g of S23 Saflager.. that's the lot. I am at 1020 but it still tastes a bit sugary, shall I bottle it anyway.

The Home Brand was at 1010 yesterday, the label says not to bottle it if it is over 1005. What do I do?


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## Lodan (3/6/11)

Zipster said:


> Mixing yeasts? Now that's interesting, I suppose some would be more compatible than others am I right?
> 
> There are no shops near where I am so I will filter the yeast I harvest from that stout when it's done.
> 
> ...




There could be two purposes for mixed yeast. one to make sure that the beer brews (if too cold the lager does most work, too warm the ale will take most of the work) or for a different ferment profile, though i'm not exactly sure what the outcome would be.

I'm not entirely sure i got my point across. You say that you will filter your yeast from the stout when it's done, but that's the beer that has stalled isn't it? so it won't be done till you add more yeast  If S23 isn't available try to get some other, inoffensive yeast to do the rest of the work. I guess it's been in the fermenter for 2 to 3 weeks now so best to finish it off as soon as you can.

I assume you added 23L of water to the stout kit. if so then you should expect the gravity to drop below 1020. Not sure the estimated FG, don't have the K&E spreadsheet on me (plugs Ianh).

Give the home brand a bit longer 

Edit:
Are you correcting your gravity readings for temperature?


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## Zipster (3/6/11)

HoppingMad said:


> - Homebrand kits are made for the lowest common denominator h34r: - that's why they're called homebrand. That's also why they would carry an all-purpose ale yeast (i'd suspect) that would take off fairly well at warm temps.


Well this HB yeast has been going very steady, and even more steady than any yeast I have tried so far, even now it is only 14c in there and it bubbles like a metronome every 20s. Nice and slow, but steady, I like that. I'm thinking of breeding this one and to try it on other kits.

But we will see if its clean after 2 weeks in bottles, let's not jump the gun. Thus, I have tasted yesterday and was very clean.. I'm optimistic upon this batch.


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## Zipster (3/6/11)

Lodan said:


> I'm not entirely sure i got my point across. You say that you will filter your yeast from the stout when it's done, but that's the beer that has stalled isn't it? so it won't be done till you add more yeast


I have read a paper about cleaning yeast after a batch, they make 2 batches out of one. So If I make 1 batch out of 1 it's like double isn't it. I can try to dope it with some of that home brand one, but what if there is too much yeast, would it be a problem. 



Lodan said:


> Are you correcting your gravity readings for temperature?


Does it make a real difference? Any info about that?


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## petesbrew (3/6/11)

"The yeast provided with that Stout kit was a 15g "English ale yeast" on the pack they recommended temperatures too high for the season."

Not necessarily. You said you've got a room that's 22c for a fair bit of the day. Even if the temperature drops off, it's not like 23L of liquid's going to drop exactly with air temperature.
I've brewed ales at 16c... sure they're slow, but patience is an important factor in this hobby/passion/obsession.

I haven't tried the Morgans Stout, but personally I reckon you've ruined it by using sugar. It'll end up too thin. I'd even bet Twocanning with the HB lager in it would've been a better move.
If you're into lagers, next time try the Morgans Blue Mountain Lager, with malt. Even if the HBS is too far, you might still pick up Saunders malt from the supermarket. Or purchase from the sponsor.

Hope it turns out. 
p.s. Airlocks sound and look cool, but they're no measuring device.


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## Lodan (3/6/11)

Zipster said:


> Does it make a real difference? Any info about that?



Hydrometers are typically calibrated at 20degC, so any measurement at a different temperature requires correction. The difference depends on how far out you are. 19 or 21 would make no significant difference. 24 and 16 may see a couple of point difference


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## humulus (3/6/11)

mayor of mildura said:


> Hi dude i'm not exactly sure what this topic is about but i'll try and answer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Im with the Mayor!!!


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## bignath (3/6/11)

Zipster said:


> The Home Brand was at 1010 yesterday, the label says not to bottle it if it is over 1005. What do I do?



For starters, i'd stop reading the labels on the back of extract cans...

There are lots of situations where a recipe won't go down that low. Many brewers prefer their beers DON'T go that low.

If your getting identical gravity readings over 2/3 days, i'd bottle it. Most of my beers finish around 1010-1008.

The coopers tins recommend fermenting at around 26/28 degrees or something. Unless your stepping out of the regular ales, and lagers to do something more exotic, this will make shit beer everytime.
It's not in Coopers or Homebrands best interest for you to make DECENT beer at home, otherwise you'd never go to the bottle shop and buy their commercial products.
You can however make very, very good beer (award winners actually) using cans, it's just that if you follow the directions on the labels of a lot of them, you'll end up with crap every time.

Listen to the advice that the more experienced and knowledgeable here give you and you'll make great beer.


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## Zipster (3/6/11)

petesbrew said:


> I haven't tried the Morgans Stout, but personally I reckon you've ruined it by using sugar. It'll end up too thin. I'd even bet Twocanning with the HB lager in it would've been a better move.



Why? Please explain.


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## drtomc (3/6/11)

The reason why sugar won't be so good for your Stout is that it ferments out completely leaving nothing behind but alcohol. By contrast, malt does not ferment completely, and leaves behind a bunch of stuff which lends body and flavour to your beer. For some styles, too much body ruins the experince, so sugar can be a useful contributer, but a stout is different. For a stout you want the body, the richness, that you get from malt.

cheers,
T.


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## scooza (3/6/11)

hi to all, is it just me or is everyone confused. i am a newbie but look for help from all. is the zipster a newbie or old school? my old man loves generic homebrew and can't change him. why ask a question if you don't want answers or help or shoot down the help? sounds like an ex mate of mine a wanker that knows it all.


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## going down a hill (3/6/11)

I wouldn't say everyone is confused, there has been some good info in this topic. 

On another note I would have to say that your post does have a flammability factor of 5.


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## scooza (3/6/11)

i am all for the advice don't get me wrong just confused with the OP hope to put the fire out as i'm always up for advice
not saying all are confused. love bribe g's advice just seems tha a few small minds are coming on board lately looking for help but unable to recieve it.


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## Zipster (3/6/11)

drtomc said:


> The reason why sugar won't be so good for your Stout is that it ferments out completely leaving nothing behind but alcohol. By contrast, malt does not ferment completely, and leaves behind a bunch of stuff which lends body and flavour to your beer. For some styles, too much body ruins the experince, so sugar can be a useful contributer, but a stout is different. For a stout you want the body, the richness, that you get from malt.
> 
> cheers,
> T.



Understood. I did not have any malt with me that day and was too far away to get some. I guess that will still be drinkable.

Yes my stout has been in the fermenter for now 2 weeks, shall I speed this up with 15g of the provided english ale yeast that is dry or shall I use my fantastic wood powered heat pad, knowing that I have S23 in there and I don't want to kill it.


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## riksbeaton (3/6/11)

One word comes to mind after reading this thread....ARROGANCE...


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## CONNOR BREWARE (4/6/11)

My 2 cents worth, get control of your temp zipster. Unless I read you wrong you had a swing of 10c when you shifted the fermenter. It a sure fire way to get some shithouse flavors mate.

Try and avoid more than 2c change in range . Another thing you asked was should you bottle anyway when you seemed to have a high fg. Well that's asking for trouble, as in your yeast may kick back off and in a sealed bottle there is no where for the co2 to go.

Good luck


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## Zipster (4/6/11)

Duke of Paddy said:


> My 2 cents worth, get control of your temp zipster. Unless I read you wrong you had a swing of 10c when you shifted the fermenter. It a sure fire way to get some shithouse flavors mate.
> 
> Try and avoid more than 2c change in range . Another thing you asked was should you bottle anyway when you seemed to have a high fg. Well that's asking for trouble, as in your yeast may kick back off and in a sealed bottle there is no where for the co2 to go.
> 
> Good luck



Still at 1020 today, it has been same reading for at least 3 days, the sugar taste seems to have disapeared though. I'm bottling today.. 

Thanks to all.


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## Spork (4/6/11)

Hey mate, are you bottling to PET or glass? Either way, I hope you put the bottles somewhere where beer won't ruin the carpet, and cover with an old towel or something to contain any potential bombs. Please keep children and animals away from them!


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## Zipster (4/6/11)

Spork said:


> Hey mate, are you bottling to PET or glass? Either way, I hope you put the bottles somewhere where beer won't ruin the carpet, and cover with an old towel or something to contain any potential bombs. Please keep children and animals away from them!



Spork,

What am I to do with a comment like that? 

Off course I don't want bottles to explode.. But what am I supposed to do if the gravity lingers at 1020 for days. Add yeast? Warm it up?


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## abyss (4/6/11)

Zipster said:


> Spork,
> 
> What am I to do with a comment like that?
> 
> Off course I don't want bottles to explode.. But what am I supposed to do if the gravity lingers at 1020 for days. Add yeast? Warm it up?




Why dont you just give it to your mates old man to swill.


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## tones0606 (4/6/11)

sounds like he'd enjoy it

lets us know how it turns out



abyss said:


> Why dont you just give it to your mates old man to swill.


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## petesbrew (4/6/11)

1020 is definitely pretty high, especially for one with sugar in it.
You could try only using half the priming sugar if you want to play it safe.

I know all too well about bottle bombs. They're pretty f#ing nasty when they go off next to you.

FWIW, Maybe "Ruined" was a bad word choice. More like a strange recipe choice.
I tried making a Homebrand Belgian a couple of years back. It was crap, but a toucan homebrand with T-58 belgian yeast? Yep, lets blame the recipe, not the kit!


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## Zipster (4/6/11)

petesbrew said:


> 1020 is definitely pretty high, especially for one with sugar in it.
> You could try only using half the priming sugar if you want to play it safe.
> 
> I know all too well about bottle bombs. They're pretty f#ing nasty when they go off next to you.
> ...



1020 is finish for high SG so says the back if the hydrometer, so unless you have another idea for me apart from halving the priming sugar.... like add some yeast? what do you say? Because the whole thing definitely stopped fermenting at this stage..

For those who keep steering me up with my mate's old man, I wont be giving him anything of my brewing not because I don't want to but because he died a few month ago, this man was by the way an amaizing bloke.


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## abyss (4/6/11)

Zipster said:


> 1020 is finish for high SG so says the back if the hydrometer, so unless you have another idea for me apart from halving the priming sugar.... like add some yeast? what do you say? Because the whole thing definitely stopped fermenting at this stage..
> 
> For those who keep steering me up with my mate's old man, I wont be giving him anything of my brewing not because I don't want to but because he died a few month ago, this man was by the way an amaizing bloke.




I wonder why ?


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## petesbrew (4/6/11)

Zipster said:


> 1020 is finish for high SG so says the back if the hydrometer, so unless you have another idea for me apart from halving the priming sugar.... like add some yeast? what do you say? Because the whole thing definitely stopped fermenting at this stage..
> 
> For those who keep steering me up with my mate's old man, I wont be giving him anything of my brewing not because I don't want to but because he died a few month ago, this man was by the way an amaizing bloke.


Ah screw it. Add the yeast. Don't use the heat mat, just bring it into the warmer room.
To tell the truth I've done the same before, 3 different types of yeast in one beer.
If it works, great. If it doesn't, put it down to experience.


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## kelbygreen (4/6/11)

warm it up to about 20 deg if you can if not repitch yeast. something has gone wrong so it could be heaps of things but if the temps droped then the fermenter may not of had the time to get up to temp or when it did it cooled again. Plus kit yeast off the shelf is stored at shop temp good yeast as a good shop is stored at 4 deg as thats the best temp to extend its life.


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## yum beer (4/6/11)

Zip I think you just need to be a bit patient with your stout.
All though its possible with the temp changes youve subjected it to the yeast is dead or holding little viabilty, dont worry.
Let it sit for another week in a warmish location, the yeast may start up again, and if it doesnt it will allow it to settle a bit....you have indicated that it is getting
less sweet, a few more days may help.
Reality is it will need to age for a while so another week now is not going to hurt.

Main tip: stay away from straight sugar, use dextrose instead and consider replacing some/much/all of it with LDM...or even brew enhancers. :chug:


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## manticle (5/6/11)

Zipster said:


> 1020 is finish for high SG so says the back if the hydrometer, so unless you have another idea for me apart from halving the priming sugar.... like add some yeast? what do you say? Because the whole thing definitely stopped fermenting at this stage..



Zip, don't worry about what the back of the hydrometer says. The hydrometer doesn't know what ingredients went in to your beer.

Was it just a tin and the sugar or did you add anything like maltodextrin or lactose? Yeast can stall or slow down - the three days and it's done idea is an oversimplification. Yeast is a living thing and doesn't conform to our idea of how it should behave all the time.

Some tips and tricks here: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showarticle=130

If you bottle too early in glass or even in plastic, your bottles can easily explode. Even if they don't, the resulting beer can be overgassed and/or unpleasant tasting due to various byproducts the yeast would normally clean up if given time.

Once fermentation is complete, the yeast is still busy so there is nothing wrong with allowing a bit of extra time.


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## jivesucka (13/1/12)

i'm currently experimenting with homebrand lager and liquid yeast cultivated from a longneck of coopers sparkling. who said you can't at least attempt to polish a turd?


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## Rina (13/1/12)

jivesucka said:


> i'm currently experimenting with homebrand lager and liquid yeast cultivated from a longneck of coopers sparkling. who said you can't at least attempt to polish a turd?


Pretty sure Mythbusters proved you can.


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## staggalee (13/1/12)

jivesucka said:


> who said you can't at least attempt to polish a turd?



I don`t know who said that, but it`s just another example of "experts" giving wrong info on here.
It CAN be done.
Here`s how 
http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-to-polish-a-turd/


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## pcmfisher (13/1/12)

or just sprinkle it with glitter...........


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