# Putting taps on a brick wall



## Moad (23/8/15)

I am running a coffin keezer and am planning on knocking taps through a brick wall.

Has anyone done this before?

I'm hoping the long shanks I am currently using will be long enough but will probably need to get some 150mm shanks as I believe bricks are 110mm wide. I might be able to countersink it a little bit on the other side so I can us current shanks.

I am thinking I will plug the holes for the taps as they are currently and then drill one at the back to run all of the lines through it. It will only be 30cm max from the back of the freezer to the wall, it is under the house and is reasonably cool but I'll still need some insulation. 

What would be a good insulation to use for the short run? I would like to avoid anything extra than just insulating it. I am prepared to pour a little off the first beer if need be.

If anyone has any advice/gotchas I'd be keen to hear it.


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## Dan Pratt (23/8/15)

Id suggest removing 2 bricks and using a cover plate on the side you serve from. For the line that is exposed, I have about half a meter of line and its insulated but even in winter that warms up, just clear the line.


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## Moad (24/8/15)

Thanks Pratty, why the cover plate? Just because of the shanks size or just easier?

I like the look of the taps straight on the brick


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## BottloBill (24/8/15)

If you go down the avenue of removing bricks, I would maybe consider having bricks fabricated out of stainless steel, so that the reverse side is open and still offers support to the wall. Picture attached to give reference to the idea of design.


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## adryargument (24/8/15)

Decent hammer drill and Masonry drill bit. 
Bricks crumble easy enough compared to concrete. Should drill through fine. 
Don't melt the drill bit. Aim for brick centres or mortar joins. 

Call it a day?


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## real_beer (24/8/15)

Just make sure the wall is only one layer thick before you start drilling. The longer shanks will make the wall easier to patch if you ever have to sell. :icon_cheers:


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## Moad (24/8/15)

I've got a pretty serious drill and 23 mm bit at work so the holes shouldn't be an issue. I'm just wondering what the benefit of removing bricks over drilling the holes is


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## Dan Pratt (24/8/15)

If your confident to drill a hole, go with that, it would look great with the stainless on brick.

What I was thinking of is the bricks these days are hollow and you will end up with just square chunks falling out instead of a nice round hole. if they are solid old style bricks it should be ok, I would wet drill the hole. Id try a few bricks in a different location that can be filled with grout after before using the actual spot.


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## michaeld16 (24/8/15)

Drill through man i reckon the taps straight on brick would look cool drill front to back as the brick will probably blow out when ya get through to the other side


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## Moad (24/8/15)

I'll attempt the holes and if they crumble/blow out I'll go with a stainless sheet on the wall side.

I think either way itll look great, bricks or the stainless. Will put some photos up tonight

edit The bit is actually 25mm for the Hilti, I can see this being a problem as the hole will more likely be 30mm. Will stick to the plan and knock the bricks out if there are issues


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## n87 (24/8/15)

make sure you pilot drill first, to avoid too much crumbling around the edges.

Also, where are you? i have a few different sizes of masonry bits here.


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## Moad (24/8/15)

I'll drill a 10mm pilot first yep.

I'm in Newcastle, Elermore Vale


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## n87 (24/8/15)

Im on the coast. i will have a quick look at what sizes i have available tonight if i remember.


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## n87 (24/8/15)

ive got a 22mm here. let me know if you need a lend


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## Moad (24/8/15)

Thanks mate, I'll run with the 25 on one and see how it goes. I'll hit u up later if needed, appreciate the offer


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## Moad (24/8/15)

Job done, blew out the bricks at the back a little bit and also need long shanks. Will stick a bit of wood on the back to tighten the nuts against and may have to tape the shanks toward the front to secure it all properly as the holes ended up a few mm wide. It might be fine, it is hard to tell without securing the nut at the back.

I will move the dartboard across to line up, I was thinking of painting the dartboard in chalkboard paint... thoughts? It really can't go anywhere else in the room. I'll post up some photos of the whole room once I get some shelving up.

Cheers,

Nick.


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## Mr B (24/8/15)

Wow, you don't muck around.

Good job, looks like the drip tray just squeezes in.

Support the paint on the dartboard, gonna forget what's what with 6 taps


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## Moad (24/8/15)

Yeah I may need a bigger drip tray, also stuffed up the far right a bit but ahhh well!


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## pokolbinguy (24/8/15)

Looks awesome!


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## n87 (25/8/15)

have a ~100mm high bordered blackboard hanging on some chain under the dart board.
not very low of course, you dont want to interfere with the taps

i reckon that would look schmick


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