# Grain Mill Motor



## jimmyjack (10/3/06)

Does anyone know if this motor at Jaycar will have enough torque to drive a barley crusher grain Mill?

Jaycar
Also found a spider coupler their for about 10 bucks


Cheers
JJ


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## warrenlw63 (10/3/06)

JJ.

Small world. I picked up one of their spider couplers ($15) today to motorise my Marga with a wiper motor. Early testing seems positive. The coupler takes up the "shimmy" effect of a mis-aligned shaft. :beerbang: 

As for the DC motor driving the mill? No, I doubt it JJ. You'd be better to go to a car wreckers and source a wiper motor. Far more grunt. :beer: Also at 36 RPM they may be considered a little slow.

When the whole thing's up and running (successfully :unsure: ) I'll post a couple of pics.

Warren -


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## AndrewQLD (10/3/06)

Here is a good site with a geared motor used on bicycles
link to motor

The model is sc250g.
Cheers
Andrew


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## warrenlw63 (10/3/06)

Nice link Andrew, thanks. :beerbang: 

Think I'll bookmark it. 

Warren -


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## Tony M (10/3/06)

I have a 65 watt motor on my mill and the rollers coincidently do 36RPM. It takes me near 15 minutes to crush 5KG of grain and if I dampen the grain, the motor stalls, so I'm right on the edge with the 65 watts. The motor you were looking is 15watts or so which is too gutless.


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## jimmyjack (10/3/06)

Ok found a bigger one. What about this one??

Jaycar

I am trying to get away from building a pulley or sprocket system. I suppose a windshied wiper motor will work.

Cheers, JJ


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## Justin (10/3/06)

Windscreen wiper motors do work. I have posted about using one to power my barley crusher so do a search and you'll find photos and details. The spider coupling would be the go though to couple the two.

I wouldn't mess with the Jaycar one, I very much doubt it would work.

FWIW I use a battery charger as a power source for mine, but a computer power source could also do the job. Both are cheap. And no pulleys


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## Gulf Brewery (10/3/06)

Hi jimmyjack and justin

A wiper motor is very easy to do, no gearbox and a lot less hassle than what it would be to mount the jaycar ones. 

Have a look at my Valley Mill I converted about 3 years ago and still going strong. 









Cheers
Pedro


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## jimmyjack (10/3/06)

Thanx Pedro and Justin, on the search for wiper motors now. How do you wire them up. Justin you mentioned a car battery charger. Pedro that looks hard wired.

Cheers JJ


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## Gulf Brewery (10/3/06)

jimmyjack said:


> Pedro that looks hard wired.
> [post="113828"][/post]​



JJ

It is not really hard wired. What I did was use from cable retainers to hold the cable down to the edge of the mill table so it doesn't get in the way and have a plug on the end of that. There is a switch mounted on the mill table as well that gives forward and reverse too.

Cheers
Pedro


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## Batz (10/3/06)

Gulf Brewery said:


> [gives forward and reverse too.
> 
> Cheers
> Pedro
> [post="113832"][/post]​




Exellent idea!
I'll be doing that,help to free teeth etc from some cheap malt brands.

Batz


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## Darren (10/3/06)

OK, I will 'Bite". you found teeth? I found some metal once in some aussie malt, luckily before it hit the rollers.

cheers
Darren


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## Tony (10/3/06)

here are come pics of my motorised grain mill.

It is home made...... 10" long 2" dia rollers.

The motor is a 240 v 2 speed motor.

Its rated at 100W on low speed (950 RPM) and 370 W (1500 RPM).

It runs the mill at about 150 RPM on hi speed with the pullys and has no problems cracking 10 KG in under 2 min.

pullys are 1 1/4" amd 12 ".

the low speed setting will run but you have to "kick start" it by hand and it labours so i dont use it. Plus on the higher speed the husks are kept whole but the grain inside seems to come out of the hush a bit more and i get better efficiency so slow speed is not always the best. I told some people in breweries that my mill ran at 150 RPM and they said..... is that all!

I wet my grain with about 150 mls water in 9 to 12 KG and get great cracking results.

cheers


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## Batz (10/3/06)

Darren said:


> OK, I will 'Bite
> 
> [post="113853"][/post]​



Cheers Darren :beerbang: :lol: 

No mate, no teeth as yet.
Unless the old Tidalpete dropped his choppers in a bag :huh: 

Cheers
Batz


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## stephen (11/3/06)

The wiper motoers are a great idea. To diverse a little, about twenty two years ago I built my father a spit or rotisserie for Xmas. The spit was, and still is, driven by a wiper motor driving through a gear box from an old electric drill. The spit has done over 200 beasts and other variations of a theme. so the wiper motor will go for a long time,

To wire up. The wiper motor (or most of them) have 4 electrical connections. One earth or common ground. Two different speed connections and a "park" connection. From memory, the earth or common ground is generally the odd connector out; ie it is vertical and all the rest are horizontal. Knowing this, it is simply connect the blavk from a battery charger to this connection and then, by trial and error, use the red lead to determine what the other connectors do. 

Discalimer: Most wiper moters I have seen are somewhat like this, though some of the more modern motoers may not be like this at all. This post is a generalisation.

Steve


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## recharge (11/3/06)

Ok since the topic of motors is up, does anyone know how fast a washing machine motor runs. I have one out of an old Hoover which was belt driven. They have nothing written on them.

Cheers

:beer: 

Richard


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## Tony M (11/3/06)

recharge said:


> Ok since the topic of motors is up, does anyone know how fast a washing machine motor runs. I have one out of an old Hoover which was belt driven. They have nothing written on them.
> 
> [post="113884"][/post]​


All those motors (squirrel cage) run at 1440 RPM.


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## ausdb (11/3/06)

Tony M said:


> recharge said:
> 
> 
> > Ok since the topic of motors is up, does anyone know how fast a washing machine motor runs. I have one out of an old Hoover which was belt driven. They have nothing written on them.
> ...



A lot of washing machine motors are two speed, I have one out of an old hoover front loader in the shed which I am sure has a low speed of about 3-400 rpm. I will check it tomorrow and post back


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## recharge (13/3/06)

Thanks for replys. 
Sqirrel cage? I guess it could resemble one

cheers 

richard


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## Jez (14/3/06)

I've got one of these washing machine motors I think - how can I check to see if it's 2 speed or not? is it just written on the plate near where the speed is printed?

If it is 2 speed how do I get it to run at the lower speed? I got the motor from Bankstown Markets & it came already wired up with a lead & wall plug.

Jez


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## warrenlw63 (14/3/06)

Picture as promised.  

Spider Coupler. $15 from Jaycar. Cat. No. YG2782.

Haven't tested it extensively yet. However seems to work well. Shaft ID is 1/4 inch. I had to grind about 1mm off the threaded shaft of the wiper motor, then just ground part of it flat to grip with the grub screws. Second part going to mill is a cutoff flat screwdriver blade. Once again partially ground flat to grip to the grub screw. :beerbang: 

Here's to hoping the whole shebang is functional. RPMs are slow but steady.  

Hope this helps anybody attempting the same thing.

Warren -


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## warrenlw63 (14/3/06)

Also a closer pic. :beer: 

Warren -


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## Justin (14/3/06)

Looks good Warren and should be a mod easily attempted and achievable by anyone with a file. Great find on the spider coupling.

This looks like an easier way to couple the two compared to my brass block method, and it allows for slight misalignment.

Top work, hope it works as planned.

Cheers, Justin


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## warrenlw63 (14/3/06)

Thanks Justin

Was seriously contemplating your method. They had a tap and die set at the Warehouse for $15. My self confidence gave in on me at the 11th hour though. :lol: 

Fingers crossed that the spider's beefy enough to handle the wiper motor torque. Early tests look promising.  

Warren -


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## Hoops (14/3/06)

Great idea there Warren, might check them out.

Hoops


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## fraser_john (28/5/06)

Just completed the motorization of my Crankandstein two roller mill. Fairly straight forward and sure beats trying to hold the drill on it!

http://members.tripod.com/rims-brewing/rim...g_malt_mill.htm


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## manaen (1/6/06)

What speed will a wiper motor run at?


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## warrenlw63 (1/6/06)

About 70rpm. :unsure: 

Warren -


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## fraser_john (12/6/06)

Brewed today (disaster, but different story.....)

Anyway, grabbed a short video of the motorised mill in action. Take look here


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## Foz (12/6/06)

Motorised Mill is awsome! Well done fraser_john!


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## AndrewQLD (13/6/06)

Warren,
How long does it take you to mill 5 kilo of grain with the wiper motor.

Cheers
Andrew


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## warrenlw63 (13/6/06)

G'day Andrew

Currently it's off the mill and I'm using a cordless drill.  

I found it to be extremely slow when using it and for some reason the motor kept stalling under load. May have been the lack of amps (8 amp) by the battery charger I was using?. I've heard that wiper motors under heavy load can draw up to 14 amps (??) :unsure: 

Now I've got the larger hopper which will hold about 7kg I'd be interested to start mucking around with the motor again. I've got a couple of ideas which may improve it's performance. First and foremost making some form of shock mounting for the wiper motor to allow for misalignment.  

All that said I'm quite happy using my 18 volt cordless drill (cheapie XU1). Gearbox allows a nice RPM for crushing 8kg of grain in about 20 minutes. Being 18 volt it has "just" enough charge to do the job. If the battery goes flat I just switch over to the 12 volt drill.

I found the variable speed (corded) drill to be a little on the brutal side and hard to get a nice low RPM without the windings wanting to fry.

Warren -


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## AndrewQLD (13/6/06)

> I found it to be extremely slow when using it and for some reason the motor kept stalling under load. May have been the lack of amps (8 amp) by the battery charger I was using?. I've heard that wiper motors under heavy load can draw up to 14 amps (??)



Yep I found the same, unbearably slow, I also noticed the motor heated up so much you could barely touch it after about 20 min running. I too now use an 18volt cordless drill and have found it much easier to get a good slow crush than the corded drill version.

Cheers
Andrew


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## warrenlw63 (13/6/06)

Andrew.

This pic shows how I use it now and also a pic of the new corflute hopper (holds around 7kg). I just join the couplers together which allows for the misaligned modified bolt shaft (that's why I call her Frankenmarga :lol: ) and I put the second part into the drill and just grind away. In the end it was well worth the stuffing around. I found the standard Marga "screwdriver bit" configuration to be slipping a lot under load, particularly when using a 240 volt, variable speed drill. The couplers were $14 from Jaycar and do the job brilliantly.

The combo of cordless and modfied coupling make the job of milling a piece of the proverbial.  

As I said I may take another look at trying to rig up the wiper motor just for grins. :beerbang: 

Warren -


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## devo (13/6/06)

I've been toying with this solution......


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## Trough Lolly (13/6/06)

warrenlw63 said:


> Andrew.
> This pic shows how I use it now and also a pic of the new corflute hopper (holds around 7kg)...[snip]
> Warren -


// apologies for drifting a tad O/T \\
G'day Warren,
As a fellow Marga owner, I've been stuffing around trying to get a decent sized hopper built to replace the pathetically inadequate grain cup that comes with the mill....Can you give a bit more data on the corflute hopper you made? If the materials can be sourced from the local Bunnings etc, that would be good...
Cheers,
TL


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## warrenlw63 (13/6/06)

No worries TL.

Marga Hopper

Only took about 30 mins to build and cost me about $10 all up. Mind you I got the corflute gratis from a friend of mine. By all accounts most signwriters or screenprinters have loads of the stuff.  

It's great. Strong as a brick dunny once it's all glued together. Ally angle helps a lot here.  

Warren -


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## Steve (13/6/06)

TL - I have three sheets of it if you want them...600mm x 420mm that would be heaps?
Let me know
Cheers
Steve


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## ntboozer (13/6/06)

Anyone had any luck constructing a hopper to Warrens' design using perspex?
I have a sheet of 5mm (maybe slightly thicker) perspex sitting in 'the shed' just waiting for a project.
If no dramas using perspex I might give it a go this weekend.
Cheers
nt
:beer:


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## warrenlw63 (13/6/06)

NT Boozer.

IIRC Ausdb has done something similar. :unsure: 

here

Warren -


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## Doogiechap (13/6/06)

Coreflute is dirt cheap. It's about $8 for a 4 x 1220 x 2440mm sheet from plastic/ packaging suppliers in WA so should be cheaper over East. Great stuff, definately what my hopper will be made of when the mill is finished.
Cheers
Doug


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## ntboozer (13/6/06)

warrenlw63 said:


> NT Boozer.
> 
> IIRC Ausdb has done something similar. :unsure:
> 
> ...



Cheers Warren,
Did a search for hoppers but didn't get to that post.
nt
:beer:


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## Ducatiboy stu (14/6/06)

Go to the wreckers and get and early XA-XF falcom wiper motor. heaps of torque, and they are great for spit motors as well. 


These things I do know... h34r:


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## ntboozer (14/6/06)

For those that have build their own hopper - should the bottom opening be the full width of the mill rollers or much smaller / narrower, concentrating the grain feed into the centre of the rollers?
Cheers
nt
:beer:


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## AndrewQLD (16/6/06)

I have just put my new mill motor on the marga and gave it a test drive today, nice slow crush 20 minutes for 4 kilo of grain. The motor is from this place Oatley electronics and is a motor and gear box out of a coin dispenser :blink: . The motor operates at 22volt (I have a benchtop power supply) and does about 110 rpm with a 1.5 amp draw under load. 

Price was a massive $12.00 plus $9.00 freight to Qld. These would be great as a stirrer for a HLT or mash tun because you can reduce the voltage to reduce the RPM.




Cheers
Andrew


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## AndrewQLD (16/6/06)

And another pic


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## warrenlw63 (16/6/06)

Go the Marga!! :beerbang: 

Sounds like no land speed records were broken though Andrew. I routinely crush 8.5-9kg grain, so I'd be looking around 45 mins. Sounds like I would have to busy myself with other tasks in the meantime. :lol: 

FWIW The wiper motor takes around the same amount of time.

Thanks for the pics Andrew. Top stuff and you're right, they look like they'd make great HLT stirrers.  

Warren -


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## bindi (16/6/06)

Looks good Andrew and now looks even better after sitting in front of my Marga with drill in hand  doing a crush, I am getting a new hopper made so a motor is next.


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## Doc (16/6/06)

AndrewQLD said:


> I have just put my new mill motor on the marga and gave it a test drive today, nice slow crush 20 minutes for 4 kilo of grain. The motor is from this place Oatley electronics and is a motor and gear box out of a coin dispenser :blink: . The motor operates at 22volt (I have a benchtop power supply) and does about 110 rpm with a 1.5 amp draw under load.
> 
> Price was a massive $12.00 plus $9.00 freight to Qld. These would be great as a stirrer for a HLT or mash tun because you can reduce the voltage to reduce the RPM.
> View attachment 7779
> ...


I'm experimenting with one of those too Andrew for my continuous hopping machine.

Doc


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## AndrewQLD (30/6/06)

AndrewQLD said:


> And another pic
> 
> View attachment 7780
> View attachment 7781



UPDATE
WARNING
Do not use this motor for Milling.  
After 3 crushes the motor has burnt out, but I am sure it would be great for a stirrer or Docs continuous hopper.
Don't want anyone to waste their money, oh well it only cost me $12.00 :lol: .

Cheers
Andrew


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## mika (30/6/06)

Do you think the motor was dodge ? or just not up to the task ?
Wouldn't have thought a 1.5amp draw would have indicated it was working hard :huh:


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## AndrewQLD (30/6/06)

I would say that it didn't have enough torque. The amps stayed at around 1-2 amp but the motor heated up quite a lot on the last crush.

Cheers
Andrew


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## mika (30/6/06)

Maybe just too slow for it, too much slip generated ?
Doesn't much matter now though I guess


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## Crazy (1/7/06)

> UPDATE
> WARNING
> Do not use this motor for Milling.
> After 3 crushes the motor has burnt out, but I am sure it would be great for a stirrer or Docs continuous hopper.
> ...



I got mine from oatley as well but went to a 300 watt one that come compleate with a warning that it is not to be used on bikes and scooters as it exceedes the Australian limit of 200 watts. The highest currant draw I have measured is about 12A but theraetical is about 16A. I also use one of there dc speed controllers and a gear and sprocket to reduce the speed. Crushes our ten kilo batches in about 3-5min.

Derrick

Edit removed quote pics


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## MHB (1/7/06)

I find this works very well; as we are crushing a fair bit of grain my first criterion was that it be reliable.
It cost about $100 and required some creative surgery but hasnt missed a beat over a couple of tons of malt.

View attachment 8040

MHB


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## AndrewQLD (1/7/06)

MHB said:


> I find this works very well; as we are crushing a fair bit of grain my first criterion was that it be reliable.
> It cost about $100 and required some creative surgery but hasnt missed a beat over a couple of tons of malt.
> 
> View attachment 8040
> ...



Can you give a little more detail MHB, what is the motor and where did you get it from?
Thanks
Andrew


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## ausdb (1/7/06)

ntboozer said:


> For those that have build their own hopper - should the bottom opening be the full width of the mill rollers or much smaller / narrower, concentrating the grain feed into the centre of the rollers?
> Cheers
> nt
> :beer:



Someone has referred to my plastic hopper (with brewmunchkin!) I made the opening in the bottom a full width slot. I havent had much chance to follow AHB much lately but will get the camera out and post some piccies of my hopper if you would like.

Cheers :beer:


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## kirem (11/7/06)

Has anyone thought of running their 12v windscreen wiper motor at 24v or more? I am going to give it a go this weekend and see what sort current it pulls and how much heat is produced. I plan to run the motor with just the mill (no grain) until I get 200rpm and then load it up with grain and see what the current draw is.

Below is a good explanation of how a 12v motor will react to 24v and how to monitor it for signs for pending failure. Not my words and if you are not able to monitor current draw then I wouldn't do it. a bit of stuff on motor controllers that isn't really applicable, but I left it in anyway.

K


12v Motors on 24v

Motors are specified to run at a stated rpm at a particular applied voltage with a specified loading. The specified loading is usually that at which the motor takes its maximum continuous current. If you run the motor under a lighter load than this 'name plate rating' its current consumption will reduce and its speed will increase slightly. If you increase the load, then the motor's current consumption will increase and its speed will reduce. Obviously you are now exceeding the motor's continuous rating so it will start to get hotter than it should. The greater the overload, the quicker the motor will heat so there is a time limit on such an overload. However it is usually safe to run a motor at a 300%-400% over current for, perhaps, a minute - although this will vary from motor to motor.

If you run a 12v motor from 24v its current drain and speed will still depend on the mechanical loading. However under no load it will now run at twice the speed at which it ran with 12v. Heating in the motor is still related to the current so you can still run it at its full rated mechanical load/current. However if the motor is badly balanced you may expect noise and vibration as the general construction may be inadequate for the faster speed. There may also be a problem with brush wear since the brushes are being asked to switch the current twice as fast. These effects are, however not very likely and usually the speed increase is quite OK.

There is one caveat on this. The motor is an inductive device and the commutator and brushes are a mechanical, switch. Such a mechanical switching system will have a limit on the maximum rate at which is can work and if this is approached, the commutation breaks down. Exactly what the limits are, I would not like to say but one effect o(noise) - and extreme noise can, on occasion, cause a controller to fail. The effect is quite rare - but beware of excessive over-revving.

However, limits on motor speed are not simply bearing quality. If you rev a motor hard enough - centrifugal force will take over and the rotor will fly to pieces. Also brush and commutator design is important. Depending on the design these will have a maximum switching rate and operating above this speed will cause tremendous brush arcing. In extreme circumstances this will generate severe noise transients which can destroy the controller. This is unlikely: we have only ever seen one customer do this: he was running 12v motors on 36v and blew two controllers! These motor limits are not things a controller manufacturer can really comment on: you need to consult the motor manufacturer.

If you overload the motor, its current rises in the same way whether the motor is running from 12v or 24v. However on stall the current from 24v could be twice that from 12v, so the motor could get four times as hot (heating is proportional to the square of the current). This however won't happen when you are using a good controller as the controller will limit the current to its designed value. Also the controller varies the voltage on the motor so you are probably not going to use the motor at full voltage in any case.

Another consideration is that, if you put too much current through a permanent magnet motor, it is possible to slightly demagnetise the magnets. This is cumulative: the motor's performance will drop slightly each time you do it. However, for battery motors, is is probably fairly safe to assume that, at the rated voltage, the current drawn when the motor is stalled will not reach this demagnetisation level. If you were to run a 12v motor off a 24v battery the stall current could then be excessive if it weren't limited by the controller.

Therefore, provided you chose a controller suitable for the motor you use, you can usually run a motor 12v motor from a 24v battery with no effect except that full speed is doubled.


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## MHB (11/7/06)

Sorry made a complete mess of trying to put the picks in the right places 

Take two

The mill is a Phil Mill 2 from G&G
View attachment 8200

I had a cabinet made from melamine, this is on casters so I can move it around, the door lets me close the noise and the dust in (well most of it) and takes a 25L bucket.
View attachment 8202

The hopper is gal and when full all the grist will fit into the bucket.
View attachment 8203

The drive is a cheep 5 speed drill press so it is doing around 350 RPM at the lowest speed.
View attachment 8204

Just finished cracking some roast malt so it needs a clean
View attachment 8205

MHB


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## stephen (11/7/06)

Just to add to MHB's post.

As a regular customer and haivn about 20 all grain brews under my belt, I can say that the "machine" that MHB has is quite an excellent machine. Most of my mashes have come out at over 80%: It is said that a good efficiency is the result of a good crush!

cheers

Steve


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## merrick (21/10/07)

It's been over a year since there was a post to this thread on motorising grain mills. Having just acquired a Marga Mill from Ross my next steps are to modify and add a motor. 

I was wondering whether anybody had new thoughts on using motors such as windscreen wiper motors etc. Maybe some alternative motors and/or sources have surfaced. What has proved reliable? 

Cheers

Merrick


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## domonsura (21/10/07)

Just scored a couple of continuous duty motors out of the blue yesterday morning that I wish I had found earlier when I was setting my cranky 3D mill up...they have reduction gearboxes on them that has the final output running at 102 rpm....with so much torque that I don't reckon you'd want to get your fingers caught in the rollers if these were running a mill, you'd get dragged right through......planning on remaking my mill stand to fit one of these to it, direct drive (no belts/pulleys to get fingers caught in), as the rotation direction is perfect as well.....not going to say how much I got them for, but lets just say it was less than a 10th of the original cost of the motor alone....






The motor/gearbox..






gearbox output label





motor output label....


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## crozdog (22/10/07)

Top score domonsura!! 

My brother who has been an IT service tech / manager for years recently gave me a motor out of 1 of the old monster disk drives (the ones with the 2' diameter platters). From memory it is 1/4 Hp & runs at 2850 rpm, so I'll need to step it down. 

What speed do most of you use? I currently run my mill on the electric drill on low speed - what ever that is, and it takes around 15 minutes to do a bag of grain. 

MHB, top idea!

The shredder at work was getting services the other day - it has a chunky motor and gear drive - pity I couldn't score it  Just an idea to keep the eyes out for....


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## Rudy (22/10/07)

Is direct drive a good idea? I'd hate to see what happens if there is a stone in the malt and it gets in your rollers!


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## HKS (22/10/07)

MHB said:


> I find this works very well; as we are crushing a fair bit of grain my first criterion was that it be reliable.
> It cost about $100 and required some creative surgery but hasn't missed a beat over a couple of tons of malt.
> 
> View attachment 8040
> ...



Since you have that new mega-monster mill now, care to sell that one to me? I'll come down today with a hungie and take it off your hands?  Talk about mill envy you should see his new 1!


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## tangent (22/10/07)

i really like the melamine cabinet idea! might have to look into that since just about everything in the shed is coated in malt flour.


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## Andyd (22/10/07)

Guys,

Has anyone used anything as big as an old mulcher motor? I've got one sitting around, with shite loads of torque but also massive revs.

Andy


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## tangent (22/10/07)

massive revs obliterate the malt into flour. slow and steady is the go.


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## Plastic Man (23/10/07)

I was looking around for a wiper motor last week for the Marga. Oatley have a new one for $28 which seems OK.

But they also have a car window motor that they are selling cheap bundled with a PWM speed controller for $27. I had a chat with the guy at OAtley to see what the Torque was like and he said it was about half the wiper motor, but he had used one and it was still pretty grunty. I grabbed one anyway and will give it a go. Worse case the motor doesn't have the torque but the speed contriller will still come in handy for other projects anyway. I can always wack the motor on the HLT as a stirrer.

window motor from Oatley Electronics

Pulled a power supply out of an old computer at work so will drive it from that.


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## BrissyBrew (24/10/07)

devo said:


> I've been toying with this solution......
> 
> View attachment 7727


humm just what I have been looking for to soop up my millmaster.
In all seriousness cheapo drills with speed control do offer a good cheapo alternative, just mounting them can be a bit of a pita and probalby does not look as neat. I cant find the link but I have been a drill used to power a mill and it looked like a big shinny motor casing, which was hollow with a cheapo drill inside.


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## haysie (24/10/07)

some advice pls guys, i have been told i will need motor with 1/2" drive, pulleys and gears to drive my millmaster, this seems complicated :blink: . If the milmaster has 1/2" drive, do i buy a motor (ebay 1hp thing`s with 1/2" drive approx $80) and use this? question 1/ what do you use from shaft of mil to shaft of motor? 2/ is the speed of say 1hp motor adjustable or is this where different pulleys, gears come in? 3/ gears n pulleys seem messy. Reply welcome & appreciated.
Haysie


----------



## Simon W (25/10/07)

Sorry Haysie, can't help ya, but I'm sure BrissyBrew will reply.

For those toying with wiper motors, most are pretty inefficient motors and not really suited.
I've been using a cordless drill (an old XU1) for a while without drama's. The Jaycar gearheadmotor in the first post would be a bit small as already mentioned, but it's big brother _should_ work fine because its the same size motor as used in the cordless drills (Mabuchi RS-540/550 and Johnson 600 series)

Jaycar Cat# YG-2738
50kg/cm torque @ 55 RPM
160 RPM max
Only problem tho, it's $40

I say _should_ because even tho the Jaycar motor has the same dimensions as the Mabuchi 550 (incl. the fluxring) they come with different windings for different applications. (check the Mabuchi Motor or Johnson Electric websites to see what I mean) And there are a lot of 'clones' coming out of china that may be a bit soft.

I reckon tho that the 50kg/cm torque would be plenty 'nuff for a small mill, I know my cordless doesn't have anywhere near that much torque(higher rpm).

Or... gut the old cordless for its motor/gearhead and link it up with an Oldham coupler.


----------



## BrissyBrew (25/10/07)

haysie said:


> some advice pls guys, i have been told i will need motor with 1/2" drive, pulleys and gears to drive my millmaster, this seems complicated :blink: . If the milmaster has 1/2" drive, do i buy a motor (ebay 1hp thing`s with 1/2" drive approx $80) and use this? question 1/ what do you use from shaft of mil to shaft of motor? 2/ is the speed of say 1hp motor adjustable or is this where different pulleys, gears come in? 3/ gears n pulleys seem messy. Reply welcome & appreciated.
> Haysie


The shaft is actually 12mm with a 4mm keyway milled into so you use standard couplers. The rest of the setup depends on the rpm and wattage of your motor or if it is geared. I have been looking around and still am of the opinion that a few cheapo drills on the market offer the best value for money unless you have a freebie motor of course.


----------



## NRB (31/1/08)

Is anyone running an old washing machine motor? I've just bought a new front loader (ridiculously water efficient compared to my 30+ yo top loader) and have salvaged the motor from it. I'm obviously going to need to get a pulley, or several pulleys to step the speed down. I don't know where to begin looking for such items and any help would be appreciated.


----------



## warrenlw63 (31/1/08)

NRB

I recently bought an old 1/4 HP $25 electric motor from Ebay for my Monster Mill. It's rated at 1440 RPM with a capacitor start (washing machine should be similar). You'll need to gear your mill down to around 150 rpm.

I bought a 12 inch pulley for $60. The belt was about $10.

Rook put me onto this place and I can't recommend them more highly;

Australian Power Transmissions
1483 Sydney Rd. Campbellfield
Phone: 9357 0201

Any Power Transmission or Bearing place should be able to help you out. Just tell them what you're trying to achieve.  

Being a homebrewer opens many doors. :lol: 

(Attached shameless mill pic)

Warren -


----------



## NRB (31/1/08)

Thanks Warren, it's a hell of a way to go, but if I have to I have to... The washing machine motor certainly does have a capacitor attached to it.


----------



## AUHEAMIC (31/1/08)

NRB said:


> Thanks Warren, it's a hell of a way to go, but if I have to I have to... The washing machine motor certainly does have a capacitor attached to it.


What suburb are you in NRB. I work in the industry and may be able to recommend someone closer. PM me if you like.


----------



## NRB (31/1/08)

I'm in Box Hill Peels.

Oh, and Warren, do you have any pictures from the other side? I'd love to see how the pulleys are set up.


----------



## warrenlw63 (31/1/08)

Yeah no worries. Pretty straight forward to set up.  

Motor is on a piece of hinged board. That way the weight of the motor keeps tension on the belt.

Warren -


----------



## AUHEAMIC (31/1/08)

Unfortunately Box Hill is a power transmission black hole. The closest one thats any good is.

U.M.S Transmissions Pty Ltd 
Unit 1/ 29 Barry St Bayswater VIC 3153
ph: (03) 9720 2355 

If your motor is running at 1440rpm and you use an 1 pulley on the motor and a 12 pulley on the mill you will end up at 180rpm.


----------



## warrenlw63 (31/1/08)

Hey peels... Looks like I'm 30rpm over my estimation. I'll have to get my mill speedo recalibrated! :lol: 

Warren -


----------



## NRB (31/1/08)

Thanks Peels. That leaves me with 2 projects on the go - chest freezer collar construction and mill motorisation. Bring it on.


----------



## AUHEAMIC (31/1/08)

warrenlw63 said:


> Hey peels... Looks like I'm 30rpm over my estimation. I'll have to get my mill speedo recalibrated! :lol:
> 
> Warren -


180!!!!!!!! Are you mad. Dont you know the speed limit is 150 around here? The crushing cops will be onto you :lol:


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## warrenlw63 (31/1/08)

Peels said:


> 180!!!!!!!! Are you mad. Dont you know the speed limit is 150 around here? The crushing cops will be onto you :lol:



Damn! Looks 3 months of suspended brewing. :beerbang: 

Warren -


----------



## Jye (31/1/08)

warrenlw63 said:


> Damn! Looks 3 months of suspended brewing. :beerbang:
> 
> Warren -



And 10 efficiency points


----------



## warrenlw63 (31/1/08)

Jye said:


> And 10 efficiency points



:lol: :lol: 

Warren -


----------



## spog (20/5/09)

warrenlw63 said:


> :lol: :lol:
> 
> Warren -



can anyone tell me,in this thread windscreen motors are mentioned as a mill motor how would/do make the motor revolve in one direction.is it the way you wire it up only.
thinking of using one as it is near on impossible to find a pulley with 12mm bore to suit my millmaster.
cheers...spog......


----------



## cooperplace (20/5/09)

jimmyjack said:


> Does anyone know if this motor at Jaycar will have enough torque to drive a barley crusher grain Mill?
> 
> Jaycar
> Also found a spider coupler their for about 10 bucks
> ...



Hi JJ, I think it is all to do with the gearing. I have a Schmidling maltmill and I attached my fairly powerful 18V cordless to the shaft: hopeless, stalled instantly. SO then I attached a 600W cheap Chinese drill (240V) with electronic speed control. Hopeless on all settings. Then I tried my trusty old Hitachi drill, big and heavy, it says 670W, 240V, and has hi/low gearbox. I haven't used hi, but on low, a dream, perfect. 

It sure takes a lot of torque.

Hope this helps.

Peter


----------



## Gulf Brewery (21/5/09)

spog said:


> can anyone tell me,in this thread windscreen motors are mentioned as a mill motor how would/do make the motor revolve in one direction.is it the way you wire it up only.
> thinking of using one as it is near on impossible to find a pulley with 12mm bore to suit my millmaster.
> cheers...spog......



Hi Spog

Yep - reverse the wires and runs the other way. I have a switch on mine so I can run it backwards or forwards in case something jams in the rollers.

Cheers
Pedro


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## Gout (17/7/09)

After a lot of reading i found this post re- motors for the mill - mine is a barley crusher.

I went to get a XF window motor however it was raining and they looked hard to get out of the car( the yard was shutting so i missed out). Lazer's had a motor that was very easy to get at (3 bolts)

Are most car motors similar or is XF used because its much better? (bigger) and basicly the same speed? I would like 150RPM and sounds like the XF is 70 odd RPM - all motors where the same price $25. Otherwise should i try get something like a AU motor because its newer?

I will try get to the yard again this weekend and score a motor to try and rig up the mill


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## hando (17/7/09)

could use an old washing machine motor.


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## Gout (17/7/09)

i dont have an old machine sadly and i thought the idea of a 1:1 ratio on the mill will make it easy to set up rather than belts and cams etc


----------



## Back Yard Brewer (18/7/09)

Without me going through the forum, what is the recommended rpm for the millmaster? I have a valley mill which recommends no faster than 300rpm. 

BYB


----------



## bradsbrew (18/7/09)

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...ic=35134&hl= 100rpm to 200 rpm seems the average.

Brad


----------



## WarmBeer (15/9/10)

Gout said:


> After a lot of reading i found this post re- motors for the mill - mine is a barley crusher.
> 
> I went to get a XF window motor however it was raining and they looked hard to get out of the car( the yard was shutting so i missed out). Lazer's had a motor that was very easy to get at (3 bolts)
> 
> ...


Resurrecting an old(ish) thread.

Did any of you guys have success with getting the wiper motor going?

I picked up a motor from a recent Falcon, with 5 terminals in the plug assembly.

Ground is easy to determine, but I can't get the motor to rotate at all, even connecting my can battery to any of the other 4 terminals.

Is it necessary to bridge any of the terminals in order to turn the internal electronics within the motor "On"?

Cheers.


----------



## Fourstar (15/9/10)

WarmBeer said:


> Resurrecting an old(ish) thread.
> 
> Did any of you guys have success with getting the wiper motor going?
> 
> ...



Sure you got yourself a working motor? 

seriously though, considering they are turned on in a car by applying a 'switch' of sorts, i'd assume you would have to jump a pair.


----------



## WarmBeer (15/9/10)

Fourstar said:


> Sure you got yourself a working motor?


No.

Got a convenient late model Ford Falcon I can try it with?


----------



## Banshee (15/9/10)

WarmBeer said:


> Resurrecting an old(ish) thread.
> 
> Did any of you guys have success with getting the wiper motor going?
> 
> ...



I got a motor from a mate earlier in the week and found that the earth I was using was not for the motor. If it is anything like mine there are 3 wires from socket to the motor. The centre wire is ground and the outer left and right are positives to high and low speed.


----------



## seemax (15/9/10)

WarmBeer said:


> I picked up a motor from a recent Falcon, with 5 terminals in the plug assembly.




I can get the pin outs if you like - any idea what model or year it was?


----------



## Plastic Man (14/9/11)

Been running my Marga using a window winder motor for a few years now. Always been meaning to post a pic. Finally went one better and took a small vid:



Bought it from Oatley electronics, (Toyota) and runs from an old PC power supply. Only turns at about 80RPM but works fine. It's a nice grunty little motor.

Been meaning to make a more permanent stand for it but this works pretty well and sets up in a few mins.

Richard

PS - is there a way of embedding a youtube vid ?? Did a search but can't find anything ???


----------



## cat007 (3/10/11)

Plastic Man said:


> Been running my Marga using a window winder motor for a few years now. Always been meaning to post a pic. Finally went one better and took a small vid:
> 
> 
> 
> ...





I wonder if it'd be grunty enough to get some pulley's and gear it up so it cranks the mill over at ~200rpm?


----------



## GrainStain (7/10/11)

Got the new mill today.

Can someone point me in the right direction for tips on building a hopper?

The gaps on the outer side of the rollers and the frame are quite large.

What is the way to stop grain falling straight through???


----------



## scooza (7/10/11)

hi seen some good one's in the $2 ghetto thread. lol.


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## The Scientist (7/10/11)

Washing machine motors work a treat:







Also can be used to kill Zombies hey Browndog


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## browndog (7/10/11)

The Scientist said:


> Washing machine motors work a treat:
> 
> View attachment 48943
> 
> ...



Rips their spines right out boy.


----------



## TidalPete (7/10/11)

browndog said:


> Rips their spines right out boy.



Too bad it doesn't work on Queenslanders Tony? <_< :lol: 
And to keep on-topic my trusty old electric hammer drill combined with my 3-roller Cranker gives me plus\minus 88% eff so I see no need to change ATM.

TP


----------



## The Scientist (7/10/11)

TidalPete said:


> Too bad it doesn't work on Queenslanders Tony? <_< :lol:
> TP



QLDers have spines? :unsure:


----------



## browndog (7/10/11)

TidalPete said:


> Too bad it doesn't work on Queenslanders Tony? <_< :lol:
> And to keep on-topic my trusty old electric hammer drill combined with my 3-roller Cranker gives me plus\minus 88% eff so I see no need to change ATM.
> 
> TP



Each to their own old buddy, but Liam may be onto something there. Heard Daly Cherry Evans is a special for the no 7 maroon mate. Don't think I'd like a dirty silvertail in my team...


----------



## TidalPete (7/10/11)

browndog said:


> Don't think I'd like a dirty silvertail in my team...



We agree for once browndog except Daly Cherry Evans is a talented innocent compared to those thugs in the same team.
Five attacking one is hardly "manly". What dingoes!

Still putting your entries into Qld comps I see?
Whatever made you & your mate "The scientist" the browndog wannabe move up here if things are so great back where you come from?
Over and Out.

TP


----------



## hsb (30/5/12)

Thinking of motorising my Monster Mill as the drill runs way too fast, and researching through all these old threads.
Looking at various solutions, I'd much rather try and set it up 1:1 with a coupling, rather than mess around with pulleys.

Does something like this look in the ball park?
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//produ...b55587c361b91de

SC112 MOTOR DETAILS...

This motor starts rotating at only 0.5VDC, (yes 1/2 of a volt). 

12VDC operation
Rated speed: 3600 RPM
Rated current: 
Measures: 67mm X 97mm (+ shaft)
Shaft: 8mm "D" shaped end with cir-clip groove.
Weight: ~1.1kg

It comes with a Speed Controller as well, so all I'm figuring all I'd need is the coupling (8mm <> 3/8") and I'm away?

Does that sound right? Or is this motor too feeble?

I see the great bespoke brewing solutions like this:
http://www.motiondynamics.com.au/specials/...0nm-torque.html

But $169 is way over budget.  

Oatley have plenty of motors but I'll confess to being in the dark on any motor that didn't come installed inside a Scalextric car.
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//index...b55587c361b91de


Any tips on the cheap without pulleys? Cheers.


----------



## QldKev (30/5/12)

hsb said:


> Thinking of motorising my Monster Mill as the drill runs way too fast, and researching through all these old threads.
> Looking at various solutions, I'd much rather try and set it up 1:1 with a coupling, rather than mess around with pulleys.
> 
> Does something like this look in the ball park?
> ...





Have a look on my website, I run an oatley motor. On my Monster mill It rocks!

That one in your oatley link doesn't state the power rating. I wouldn't touch it without knowing it. Also it's 3600rpm so you would need to reduce that heaps.


QldKev


----------



## hsb (30/5/12)

Thanks mate, much appreciated. I'm having a butchers at your site right now. That's a great help. I'll digest and update when I dip my toe in and get started. YYR that one I linked to is something of an unknown.. :icon_cheers:


----------



## kjparker (30/5/12)

Oatley don't sell those motors anymore, they are keeping any stock they have for their range of electric bikes.

I got the same motor from eBay, delivered to me for less than Oakley were charging.

I pretty much used the same method of connecting the mill to the motor as kev did, if you look up my posts there is a video on here somewhere of my mill in action. Works a treat with my two roller mm


----------



## QldKev (30/5/12)

Oatley is out of stock, but here is an ebay one for $94 delivered (edit: notice clueless said they don't sell them anymore, so explains why)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24V-250Watt-Ele...=item257117933a 
No need for speed controls, just wire it via a switch to 12v and you get a decent speed. 


Out of interest the motion dynamics is 180w, the one above is 250w 


QldKev


----------



## kjparker (30/5/12)

That's the seller I bought mine from.

On 12v as stated above works great. No muss no fuss, it just chews through anything I have given it so far. I also start it with the hopper full. No need to get running first.


----------



## Cervantes (5/2/15)

QldKev said:


> Oatley is out of stock, but here is an ebay one for $94 delivered (edit: notice clueless said they don't sell them anymore, so explains why)
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24V-250Watt-Ele...=item257117933a
> No need for speed controls, just wire it via a switch to 12v and you get a decent speed.
> ...



QldKev,

Would a laptop power supply work to power this motor?

Or should I use the battery charger?

Thanks


----------



## QldKev (5/2/15)

Cervantes said:


> QldKev,
> 
> Would a laptop power supply work to power this motor?
> 
> ...


Some will be good, but it would depend on the specs of the laptop power supply you have, same as the battery charger.


----------



## Cervantes (5/2/15)

Thanks for that.

I suppose it's a case of try it and see.


----------



## Cervantes (6/2/15)

Okay, I've been doing some research and seen a couple of builds where they have used a "start capacitor" (Whatever that is)

So..............


What's it for?
Do I need it?

Thanks


----------



## Spiesy (6/2/15)

QldKev said:


> Oatley is out of stock, but here is an ebay one for $94 delivered (edit: notice clueless said they don't sell them anymore, so explains why)
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24V-250Watt-Ele...=item257117933a
> No need for speed controls, just wire it via a switch to 12v and you get a decent speed.
> ...


Why do you need 250W?

What is the torque rating?


----------



## QldKev (6/2/15)

Cervantes said:


> Thanks for that.
> 
> I suppose it's a case of try it and see.





Cervantes said:


> Okay, I've been doing some research and seen a couple of builds where they have used a "start capacitor" (Whatever that is)
> 
> So..............
> 
> ...


It depends. A starter cap provides a huge surge of power to get the motor turning. Depending on the power supply it may not be needed. If you see a laptop charger etc just check the output specs and post it up here. We can let you know it it should work. But generally you want +12vdc with hopefully at least 10amp, but preferably 20amp or more.


----------



## QldKev (6/2/15)

Spiesy said:


> Why do you need 250W?
> 
> What is the torque rating?


From their specs
_Model: SC250G, 250w_
_Rated Speed: 320RPM @24VDC,_
_Nominal Torque: 7.46Nm_
_Measures: 110mm Dia x 115mm L (+shaft)_
_Weight 2.2kg_

Why 250w? A few guys on here years back tried a few smaller electric motors, and virtually all motors eventually overheated and died. This is the one AndrewQld settled on and worked. When I first got into brewing I used his mill many times, so I just got the same mill and motor combo he had.


I need to update my website as I no longer use this motor. It was fine crushing normal brewing grains, but after putting through hundreds of kg of corn the power supply and motor both died together. One part must had died and spiked caused the other to die too. (Corn is many times harder to crush than barley/wheat/rye) I ended up with the motion dynamics motor / brewers combo along with the bigger power supply they recommend. The new combo even though rated to a lower power rating, definitely has more torque. I ended up snapping 2 spider couplers crushing corn with the combo. I've given up milling the corn via this mill, as I thought long term it will stuff the mill. The motion dynamics speed controller died on the second run, not sure why as I have not checked I just bypassed it. The motor spins slower than the old oatly/scooter motor even without their controller. 

Just as a cross reference for the torque, the motion dynamics is now using a 200w motor
_Peak Torque: 20 Nm (Newton Meters)_


----------



## Cervantes (6/2/15)

Okay,

I've ordered this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231446651015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

I have an old laptop power supply or two kicking around and also a couple of half decent battery chargers, so with luck one will work.

Will have to wait until I take delivery before ordering the spider coupling as I don't know the shaft size of the motor or my mill at the moment.

Edit:

The battery charger puts out 7 amps.

http://www.ctek.com/au/en/chargers/MXS%207.0

I can't see the laptop power supply putting out enough grunt.


----------



## Cervantes (9/2/15)

I've now ordered this power supply which should deliver ten amps.

I have a question though.

How would I rig a forwards and reverse switch?

Is it a case of reversing the polarity to the motor to make it run backwards?

As you'll have guessed I'm not the full monty electrically.

Edit:

A bit of Googling later I have found this.................





Looks simple enough with the right switch.

Any advice?

Thanks in advance.

Andy


----------



## Spiesy (9/2/15)

Why do you want a reverse?


----------



## Eagleburger (9/2/15)

Uncrush the grain silly.


----------



## Spiesy (9/2/15)

Eagleburger said:


> Uncrush the grain silly.


lol, of course.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu (9/2/15)

DPDT = Dual Pole Dual Throw. 

Something like this

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SK0981


----------



## spog (9/2/15)

Reversible so a blockage can be removed ,maybe?


----------



## Camo6 (9/2/15)

Cervantes said:


> I've now ordered this power supply which should deliver ten amps.
> 
> I have a question though.
> 
> ...


That's how I wired my wiper motor switch on my setup. Like Spog says, good if it jams, however I hope my shear pin fails in that instance. Fwiw I rarely use mine in reverse.


----------



## QldKev (9/2/15)

Cervantes said:


> Okay,
> 
> I've ordered this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231446651015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
> 
> ...



I just noticed that scooter motor you ordered does not seem to have reduction gearing, 2650rpm at 24vdc. Half the volt (DC) = half the speed, so 1325rpm, thats one fast mill.


----------



## claypot (9/2/15)

QldKev said:


> I just noticed that scooter motor you ordered does not seem to have reduction gearing, 2650rpm at 24vdc. Half the volt (DC) = half the speed, so 1325rpm, thats one fast mill.


Bike chain and large spocket fitted to mill shaft, instead of fexible coupling maybe..


----------



## Ducatiboy stu (9/2/15)

claypot said:


> Bike chain and large spocket fitted to mill shaft, instead of fexible coupling maybe..


Now your thinking


----------



## Camo6 (9/2/15)

...about losing a finger.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu (9/2/15)

...Workcover....ppffffttt......


----------



## Pogierob (9/2/15)

He he, just use a chainsaw


----------



## Cervantes (9/2/15)

QldKev said:


> I just noticed that scooter motor you ordered does not seem to have reduction gearing, 2650rpm at 24vdc. Half the volt (DC) = half the speed, so 1325rpm, thats one fast mill.


Whoops......................

I'd better try again then. Or start looking for a pulley and belt.


Edit:

Or would something like this work?

Or maybe this? which is for the scooter motor.

I figure that the scooters don't go flat out all the time. There should be a way to control the speed of the motor.


----------



## Cervantes (9/2/15)

Spiesy said:


> Why do you want a reverse?


In case it jams..........

An idea that seems popular on the HBT forums builds.


----------



## claypot (9/2/15)

Camo6 said:


> ...about losing a finger.


Haven't lost any toes riding my moto in bare feet yet!!


----------



## Camo6 (9/2/15)

claypot said:


> Haven't lost any toes riding my moto in bare feet yet!!


But does your bike's drive train operate at crotch level in the presence of cheap alcohol?


----------



## Ducatiboy stu (9/2/15)

Camo6 said:


> But does your bike's drive train operate at crotch level in the presence of cheap alcohol?


No more dangerous than a belt drive setup.

I will have to re-name my mill " The Mill of Death"


----------



## Camo6 (9/2/15)

Haha! My finger survived a trip around a belt driven idler pulley. I'd hate to try the same with a chain.
But yeah, just taking the mickey. I don't mind my kids hanging around the mill either. I just made sure they'd signed the SWMS.


----------



## Cervantes (9/2/15)

On the subject of speed control for the motor..........

Would this speed controller be able to control the speed of the motor I've bought?

Thanks for the feedback and advice.

Andy


----------



## claypot (10/2/15)

Camo6 said:


> But does your bike's drive train operate at crotch level in the presence of cheap alcohol?


Baahaa good call. Unfortunatly it does run in the presence of cheap alcohol. I keep it a few meters away from my bar where there also seems to be alot of black ruberised marks on the floor...
Agree chains, gears, pullies, belts, all not the best option. I'm going for a direct drive via flex coupling with a reducted motor.
Wouldn't be to much of a drama to make a gaurd out of some sheet metal and pop rivets, if you had to go that way.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu (10/2/15)

Thank god none of you guys grew up around me when I was young.....pushbikes without helmets, fire works, bush bashers without seat belts or roll cages,swimming in creeks without our parents knowing, slug guns, shangais, VB, dry yeast sprinkled on your wort...leaded petrol...you guys need to man up and experience a bit of danger


----------



## Camo6 (10/2/15)

OMG! Tots in awe of you brah. Sounds like you livin the Thug Life with all that swag. ;-)

I remember cutting open dad's shotty shells with a hacksaw to make my homemade incendiaries and still have both thumbs and all 7 fingers. They do say that common sense ain't that common.

Just remember, it wasn't the kids of today that implemented all this over caution.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu (10/2/15)

I was lucky, Grew up in South Western NSW on a Farm....Common sense was the norm


----------



## Ducatiboy stu (10/2/15)

Camo6 said:


> OMG! Tots in awe of you brah. Sounds like you livin the Thug Life with all that swag. ;-)


WTF....


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## Ducatiboy stu (10/2/15)

Back to mill motors...


*What size motor and speed do I actually need for MY mill....?*

This is the question that needs to be asked. 

Every mill is different with regard to rollers size,knurling,gap, material..etc

You also need a good amount of torque or a nice big fly wheel ( Note:- Big fly wheels where once deemed safe in 1897 ) 

As for how you achieve the desired speed for your mill is up to you. All I can say is drink outside the square and break it down into what you have laying about...old pushbikes are very handy for this type of thing


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## Eagleburger (11/2/15)

Thats nuthin compared to some of the things I convinced people to try.

BTW belt and pulley user.

Those pushbikes dont sound much like fun. We use to ride our motorbikes. 



...guess i should have refreshed the page before replying.


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## Ducatiboy stu (11/2/15)

Mmmm....just think...a pedal powered grain mill...


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## Mardoo (11/2/15)

If you like:

http://countrylivinggrainmills.com/grainmill1.html


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## fcmcg (11/2/15)

Or this....
https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/home-brewer-special-worm-drive-motor-dc-speed-controller.html


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## Ducatiboy stu (11/2/15)

Not dangerous enough


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## Camo6 (11/2/15)

Double overhead! Now we're talkin.


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## Mardoo (11/2/15)

Ducati-based mill Stu?


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## Hpal (11/2/15)

My home made mill, hopper of perspex and aluminium angle from bunnings, wiper motor driven.


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## dblunn (11/2/15)

Camo6 said:


> Double overhead! Now we're talkin.


Nah, its not desmodromic!


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## takai (11/2/15)

Hpal said:


> My home made mill, hopper of perspex and aluminium angle from bunnings, wiper motor driven.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


What sort of PSU are you using for that? It looks good, especially because im pretty sure i have all of that gear bar the coupling.


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## Ducatiboy stu (11/2/15)

Use a car battery. You will find one in your car, under the bonnet.


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## takai (11/2/15)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> Use a car battery. You will find one in your car, under the bonnet.


I have several of those, also not what i was after. 240v makes for much easier constant power supply.


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## Ballaratguy (21/2/19)

Plastic Man said:


> Been running my Marga using a window winder motor for a few years now. Always been meaning to post a pic. Finally went one better and took a small vid:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hay do you still use this mill?
How well does it work?
I’m thinking of getting one but am unsure, can you do a mill down to cracking the small grains in a single milling?


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