# Control box - test - fail



## [email protected]! (24/3/18)

Hi all

So was hoping to get my brew system ready for easter brewing. Just got a 32A circuit installed and have finished (or thought i had) my control box. Plug it in for the first time and turn the key... Pop. slight smell of smoke. Also switched the breaker.

I've replaced the fuse, and turned the breaker back, but now nothing. I wonder if i've damaged something. 

I really have no idea where to go from here. Could i have destroyed a relay - as i've tried to isolate it and nothing happens.

Hawk


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## pcmfisher (24/3/18)

Once that magic smoke is released things are usually cactus.


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## [email protected]! (24/3/18)

Hrm, surely that would just be one or two components. Just need to isolate and replace the bits?


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## huez (24/3/18)

A picture and a little bit more information might be helpful. I wouldn't be putting power to it again until you figure out what shorted out. Maybe get a sparky to look at it. I doubt you've blown the relay up if you weren't actually controlling anything yet, unless you wire it up wrong.


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## [email protected]! (24/3/18)

Basically have a slightly modified version of MikeSkril build. Main difference is the three wires - hot, neutral and ground.


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## huez (24/3/18)

A photo of yours would be more helpful. 
I'd start by pulling the power from the controllers and trying to power them individually from a separate lead. I'd say its just how you've wired the power coming in though, if it popped and smoked you should be able to see where it shorted anyway. Be careful! If you're not sure, don't touch it!


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## [email protected]! (24/3/18)

Ahhh can't upload pic because images are too big!!!


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## [email protected]! (24/3/18)

Here, reduced like crazy. There is no apparent damage on anything that i can find. Could the smoke come from the fuze? It seemed to originate from that area (or the volt/amp meter)?

And apologies for the crazy wiring, first time for me.


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## huez (24/3/18)

wow, what a mess! Not gonna be able to help sorry, i can see why you're struggling to find the issue! You're better off working with one component at a time until you figure out the cause.


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## [email protected]! (24/3/18)

Yep, well really didn't know how to do it.

If i tell you what i've found, can you still help?

So far i've had no success getting anything powered even after disconnecting all the PID's. Should i try disconnecting the hot bus? I am slightly curious whether the circuit is fried... is this possible even if it hit the RCD breaker ?

I've otherwise looked very closely and can't see any damage.

Thanks

Hawk


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## captain crumpet (24/3/18)

[email protected]! said:


> Yep, well really didn't know how to do it.
> 
> If i tell you what i've found, can you still help?
> 
> ...



Lol and no. Do you even have something to test for voltage? It's not a car you can't just look at it for damage. Are all your components rated at 230v?


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## [email protected]! (24/3/18)

Yep, made sure they are. I'll get a multimeter tomorrow. Start going through all the components.


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## mr_wibble (25/3/18)

If it were me, I would start isolating the components, trying to get back to the state of having _something_ working. Then add single components back into the circuit. At each step, verify the additional component works - along with the others.

Obviously stuff shouldn't burn if it's wired correctly. Go back to the beginning, check every wire. Yeah, it could have been just a dodgey fuse, but that's a long-shot at best.


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## [email protected]_dan (25/3/18)

mr_wibble said:


> If it were me, I would start isolating the components, trying to get back to the state of having _something_ working. Then add single components back into the circuit. At each step, verify the additional component works - along with the others.
> 
> Obviously stuff shouldn't burn if it's wired correctly. Go back to the beginning, check every wire. Yeah, it could have been just a dodgey fuse, but that's a long-shot at best.


Not an elect.. but make safe. With some of those terminals I would remove each wire and check not shorting across to another. Maybe check continuity between close terminals before doing so..that could speed up the process. At work we have id label on every wire printed. That might help to check also you have addressed your connections are feeding to the correct input / outputs as you trouble shoot. My 2 cents.


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## huez (25/3/18)

I'd be looking at those two common rails in the middle. Those active and neutral connections on top of each other are suspect.


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## Hawko777 (25/3/18)

[email protected]! said:


> Hi all
> 
> So was hoping to get my brew system ready for easter brewing. Just got a 32A circuit installed and have finished (or thought i had) my control box. Plug it in for the first time and turn the key... Pop. slight smell of smoke. Also switched the breaker.
> 
> ...



I wired my panel up apart from the final 240v connection to the e stop , contactor and start switch. I had a licensed electrician come over and mega test the unit and double check everything. Worked first time.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Hope its all good for you but please remember, if not already, install circuit protection, to protect your sensitive equipment and YOU. Good luck


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## [email protected]! (26/3/18)

Yep, got a new circuit with RCD breaker in it. That should have, hopefully protected everything. I checked the relay yesterday, seems to be working, but i'm completely new to multimeter's. Gave me a very small voltage through it, like 0.006v. Figure that this means it's not fried. Noting that after taking away the other components (removing the wire from the relay to the hot bus) nothing happens. Ergo, perhaps the problem is the key switch.


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## 5teve (27/3/18)

Forget testing voltages, or powering anything on yet. For now you just want to check for continuity and for shorts. 

Your meter should have a continuity test mode which will be like a bell or sound type symbol and will make a beep whenever you complete a circuit between the 2 probes, if there's no continuity mode just use it in resistance mode and look for a low ohms reading. 

Then check through your entire wiring for continuity where you expect it, and for shorts where you don't. You can safely check all your switches and key switch are switching correctly this way too, without energising anything.


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## [email protected]! (28/3/18)

Update.

All working. Had some help from a sparkie. Everything operational short of the volt/amp meter. Will be happily brewing this Easter.


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## philistine (18/4/18)

Haha, dont worry about the “messy wires” - you should see mine!
Twice as much wiring (had to split it between to 10A circuits) in a box only half the size, i had no idea what i was doing and learned it all as i went along.
Looks good to me! [emoji41]


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## Bendymann (30/4/18)

Do you have a quick circuit diagram, of how you wanted to wire it? I say wanted, because if was wired how that diagram was drawn you may not have let the smoe out. My bes guess is you put the "e-stop" or amp meter first in circuit. That is where I'd start, and 0.6v measured anywhere in that circuit is not good. It indicates that that component is most likely not working.


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## Bendymann (30/4/18)

Where are you located [email protected]?


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## [email protected]! (2/5/18)

In Canberra


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## [email protected]! (2/5/18)

Bendymann said:


> Do you have a quick circuit diagram, of how you wanted to wire it? I say wanted, because if was wired how that diagram was drawn you may not have let the smoe out. My bes guess is you put the "e-stop" or amp meter first in circuit. That is where I'd start, and 0.6v measured anywhere in that circuit is not good. It indicates that that component is most likely not working.


It's all sorted now. The hot in was in the neutral in by mistake (actually wasn't me...). Just need to figure out if the volt/amp meter is buggered now. Otherwise it all works, done 2 brews on it already.


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