# Stc 1000 Temp Controller



## VonFehringer

Hey

Just wondering if anybody has used or has any info on the temp controller STC 1000 (currently heaps selling on Ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item19bd67a311- and if there any good to convert freezer to keg fridge?


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## scotteth

Yep. They work really well. I've got one doing duty converting a chest freezer to fermenting fridge.


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## praxis178

VonFehringer said:


> Hey
> 
> Just wondering if anybody has used or has any info on the temp controller STC 1000 (currently heaps selling on Ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item19bd67a311- and if there any good to convert freezer to keg fridge?



I have three, one on a keezer, and two for fermentation fridges. The instructions they come with as far as use goes (wiring is good) is for shit I found an online pdf someplace which was right on the money. I'll dig out the link shorty.

Edit: Linky


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## ballzac

I just got one and I'm very happy with it.


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## Florian

Same here, works a treat. Save the money on a temp mate and wire yourself. There are a few threads around to help you, I found especially the pics posted by Wolfy very helpful.

Florian


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## fraser_john

I have two and they are great value


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## malbur

Thomas J. said:


> I have three, one on a keezer, and two for fermentation fridges. The instructions they come with as far as use goes (wiring is good) is for shit I found an online pdf someplace which was right on the money. I'll dig out the link shorty.
> 
> Edit: Linky



Thanks Thomas J for the link i lost the instructions that came with the unit.
+1 Mine is working well on my HLT.


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## husky

another happy camper here, works a treat and cheap


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## ianh

Also have three and happy with them.

One on a freezer after the thermostat went, one on a fermenting / cold conditioning fridge and one on a fermenting cupboard which I use for fermenting or for secondary fermentation in the bottles.

cheers

Ian


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## Yeastie Beastie

Very happy with mine too.
Go to the link below for the previous rant about these.


LINK


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## VonFehringer

Thanks All , after careful consideration I think I might invest in one!


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## Yeastie Beastie

I like the 0.5 tempreture increments myself...
Get 2, cheap as chips...hell get 3.


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## ballzac

Yeastie Beastie said:


> I like the 0.5 tempreture increments myself...


Not sure what you mean. The increments are 0.1 degree, and the minimum differential is 0.3 degrees.


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## Zapp Brannigan

The STC-1000 is a great temperature controller. I set mine up on the weekend and it's accuracy is very impressive! I recommend this controller to anyone who wants accurate temperature control.


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## Yeastie Beastie

ballzac said:


> Not sure what you mean. The increments are 0.1 degree, and the minimum differential is 0.3 degrees.



My bad, that's the one...0.1


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## leonjw

just bought a couple of these gadgets,

Can anyone recommend them for controlling the temperature on a HLT if coupled with a thermowell?

Cheers


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## ballzac

The stated accuracy on the data sheet is up to 70C, so there's no guarantee that they provide reliable measurements above this. Hopefully someone has tried and can comment?


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## dr K

ballzac said:


> The stated accuracy on the data sheet is up to 70C, so there's no guarantee that they provide reliable measurements above this. Hopefully someone has tried and can comment?



First my apologies, I clicked the wrong thread with my reply about STC-1000, but before I paste.. My own observations on accuracy, I have set a number of these up with the temp probes all but tied together and the variance as read is typically up to 1.5 C (low to high), this is to be expected, its a control device above all (try calibrating a heap of domestic "digital thermometers", you will no doubt get an even larger variance).



> These controllers are rather good.
> Mashematics (disclaimer I have financial interest in Mashematics) sell these for a tad more than the HK supplier ..currently $44 to your door in just a few days..www.mashematics.net.. but the savings you may make being an account customer by picking up the odd bargain from mashematics..(web-site under constant construction) may put a smile on your face.
> Brickbats via the mashematics site thank you.


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## sluggerdog

With the STC-1000 having the option to either heat or cool. Do you have to wire both in or could you just wire the one part in? I'm looking to use it to heat only.

Thanks


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## praxis178

sluggerdog said:


> With the STC-1000 having the option to either heat or cool. Do you have to wire both in or could you just wire the one part in? I'm looking to use it to heat only.
> 
> Thanks



Yep, not a problem, I have one of mine set to just cool (keezer), the others are on fermentation fridges so need to heat and cool.


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## wood88

Hey guys,
anyone know where i can get a housing for one of these little units?

Cheers


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## Phoney

wood88 said:


> Hey guys,
> anyone know where i can get a housing for one of these little units?
> 
> Cheers



Jaycar


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## sydneyhappyhour

wood88 said:


> Hey guys,
> anyone know where i can get a housing for one of these little units?
> 
> Cheers


I have used the smaller of these instrument cases from Jaycar Electronics for my Fridgemate and STC1000 controllers. The controller fits like a glove in one end then just have to drill holes in the back plate on the other end for the cabling to run out of.


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## wood88

Thanks, that should do the job nicely.



sydneyhappyhour said:


> I have used the smaller of these instrument cases from Jaycar Electronics for my Fridgemate and STC1000 controllers. The controller fits like a glove in one end then just have to drill holes in the back plate on the other end for the cabling to run out of.


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## bindibadgi

I just did up a wiring diagram in case it's helpful. Please someone tell me if it is wrong (for everyone's sake)!!!


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## raven19

Looks ok to me. Nice graphics on the piccie too!


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## wood88

Yep looks like its all correct to me.
I changed it a bit as i found the diagram might be a bit confusing for first timers.
Bit of a quick job so its a bit messy, but everyone should get the point.

Cheers





bindibadgi said:


> I just did up a wiring diagram in case it's helpful. Please someone tell me if it is wrong (for everyone's sake)!!!


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## QldKev

bindibadgi said:


> I just did up a wiring diagram in case it's helpful. Please someone tell me if it is wrong (for everyone's sake)!!!




The neutral should feed into 6 and 8, not 5 and 7. Otherwise you may reduce the life of the switching components. Refer wood88 diagram.



QldKev


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## bindibadgi

I didn't realise how the innards worked well enough it seems. Thanks for the feedback; I've changed the diagram a bit so that the active lead goes to the correct places. It's now equivalent to wood88's diagram, except that mine doesn't show the wire joiners.

Thanks again for the feedback.


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## Whiteferret

QldKev said:


> The neutral should feed into 6 and 8, not 5 and 7. Otherwise you may reduce the life of the switching components. Refer wood88 diagram.
> 
> 
> 
> QldKev




It doesnt matter which terminal it goes to but it should be the active that you are switching not the neutral very bad practice to switch neutrals


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## bindibadgi

whiteferret said:


> It doesnt matter which terminal it goes to but it should be the active that you are switching not the neutral very bad practice to switch neutrals



Yeah, that's the active I'm switching. I assumed that QldKev had a slip of the keyboard when he said neutral.


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## Ross

bindibadgi said:


> I just did up a wiring diagram in case it's helpful. Please someone tell me if it is wrong (for everyone's sake)!!!




Sorry, but why post a wiring diagram to help people with the comments afterwards, "please tell me if it's wrong?"
If you aren't qualified to know the answer please DON'T POST!!! Electrical advice is not for guessing.

Ross


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## bindibadgi

Ross said:


> Sorry, but why post a wiring diagram to help people with the comments afterwards, "please tell me if it's wrong?"
> If you aren't qualified to know the answer please DON'T POST!!! Electrical advice is not for guessing.
> 
> Ross



True I'm not a qualified sparky, but I knew the diagram would work. What I wasn't sure of was whether some nuance of the internal circuit existed which meant some variation would be better. The advice that the active wire should go to 6 and 8 instead of 5 and 7 was the sort of thing I was after. I wasn't about to post something that would risk lives, but I was inviting comments in case my suggestion would reduce the longevity of the unit (for example).

Point taken though, and I'm sorry for the confusion.


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## chopdog

hi guys is this a stc 1000, as the link is not working


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item5d2b560dad


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## MeLoveBeer

chopdog said:


> hi guys is this a stc 1000, as the link is not working
> 
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item5d2b560dad



Yeh, thats a stc 1000. Good little units...


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## A3k

Hi guys,
i've got a couple of these.

Does anyone know if the temp probe is waterproof. I'd like to use them to measure mash and sparge, and would prefer them to be in direct contact rather than in a thermowell.

i've done a search and emailed the guy from ebay, but am waiting for a reply.
cheers,
Al


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## KillerRx4

They should be waterproof, Its sold for use in aquariums.

Not sure I'd trust it at mash / sparge temps though.


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## A3k

yeah, probably best not using it at 70+ degrees. I just bought a stainless probe craft brewer, so hopefully that'll work with the STC1000.
Cost more than the unit, but will be easier to use in my system anyway.


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## A3k

If anyones interested, i just received the reply from quality_link2000 on ebay. 

Yes, the probe is waterproof and anti-rusty too. 80c is OK too because it is within the temperature range.

However i didnt ask if it was food grade, i doubt it is.

Im still getting my stainless steel probe for my herms, but i may just use my other probe for my sparge water. If that dies, well ive still got a spare, and i wont do that again.

Cheers,
Al


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## KillerRx4

He will supply spare probes if you ask. I think they were $3.50 ea.

I bought a couple to replace the tired & malfunctioning fridgemate & tempmate probes.


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## HeavyNova

I just got my STC-1000 unit going on the weekend and was wondering;

Does anyone know how to calibrate these units?

F4 in the menu is for calibration but I can't find any info on how it works.


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## razz

http://www.kibnt.com/uploadfile/all-purpos...123057YibJg.pdf
Is this the one/


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## HeavyNova

razz said:


> http://www.kibnt.com/uploadfile/all-purpos...123057YibJg.pdf
> Is this the one/



Yep that's the one. But I can't see any details on how to calibrate it....


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## cdbrown

Do you have a calibrated thermometer? If so just compare the reading of the thermo and STC-1000, adjust F4 until they are displaying the same value.


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## HeavyNova

cdbrown said:


> Do you have a calibrated thermometer? If so just compare the reading of the thermo and STC-1000, adjust F4 until they are displaying the same value.



Thanks cdbrown!


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## DKS

Thanks for the tip guys.
Totally forgot to double check calibration comparison for accuracy.
Just assumed such an accurate bit of kit would be on the money.Maybe not yeh?
Daz


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## HeavyNova

I've seen a comparison showing 2 STC-1000's (or similar - fridgemate etc) in the same environment showing a difference of 0.4 degrees.

While it's not a huge difference and within the unit's accuracy tolerances, I just thought if it's a simple excerise to calibrate the unit then why not give it a shot!


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## sinkas

so just to ask a dumbass question, can you use these to control a heat and a cooling source at the same time?


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## cdbrown

yes - you set the desired target temp and as long as you've got something wired up to the heat side and the cool side it will do what it needs to do to keep it at the right temp. Handy little bit of kit.


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## Silo Ted

Connected my STC1000 today, but buggered if I can get the thing to operate. Have checked the F1, F2 & F3 coordinates, and tested with both a fridge and a lamp. Once the set temp is reached, there is a click in the device, so something is switching, but its not triggering the external device. Is there a trick Im missing or should I re-inspect the wiring ?


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## DKS

Silo Ted said:


> Connected my STC1000 today, but buggered if I can get the thing to operate. Have checked the F1, F2 & F3 coordinates, and tested with both a fridge and a lamp. Once the set temp is reached, there is a click in the device, so something is switching, but its not triggering the external device. Is there a trick Im missing or should I re-inspect the wiring ?




Could be the set "delay time" before she kicks in. Try again and wait a little longer than the delay time. That's all I could suggest.Good luck. Its not that hard the remedy will be simple.
Daz


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## ballzac

Silo Ted said:


> Connected my STC1000 today, but buggered if I can get the thing to operate. Have checked the F1, F2 & F3 coordinates, and tested with both a fridge and a lamp. Once the set temp is reached, there is a click in the device, so something is switching, but its not triggering the external device. Is there a trick Im missing or should I re-inspect the wiring ?


Does the light come on to indicate that it's heating?


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## michael_aussie

Silo Ted said:


> Connected my STC1000 today, but buggered if I can get the thing to operate. Have checked the F1, F2 & F3 coordinates, and tested with both a fridge and a lamp. Once the set temp is reached, there is a click in the device, so something is switching, but its not triggering the external device. Is there a trick Im missing or should I re-inspect the wiring ?


The clicking sound will be the internal relay pulling in.

Are you sure you have it correctly wired???

The heating and cooling terminal are either side of a set of contacts, not a pair of outputs.


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## ballzac

Also, don't forget that you're dealing with mains, so if it's not wired correctly it could be dangerous.


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## Silo Ted

Cheers to DKS for following me up on this. 

Well I checked the delay time, set at 3 minutes. When the device is turned on the cool LED flashes, then the relay switches over, and the cool LED stay onbut does not turn the device on - Im using a lamp as a test). 

When I hit the set temp using a glass of iced water, the cool LED goes off. Once it drops below the range setting of 0.5 degree the heating light comes on.


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## Silo Ted

Here is an attempt to present the wiring in photoshop. Any ideas where it might be failing. 

NOTE TO READERS: THIS IS POSTED AS A QUERY FOR CLARIFICATION PURPOSES - DO NOT FOLLOW THIS DIAGRAM FOR YOUR OWN INSTALLATION.


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## DKS

Silo Ted said:


> Cheers to DKS for following me up on this.
> 
> Well I checked the delay time, set at 3 minutes. When the device is turned on the cool LED flashes, then the relay switches over, and the cool LED stay onbut does not turn the device on - Im using a lamp as a test).
> 
> When I hit the set temp using a glass of iced water, the cool LED goes off. Once it drops below the range setting of 0.5 degree the heating light comes on.



If I'm getting this right......Sounds like the sensor is colder than the set temp so switch wont signal to cool any more. Try puting the sensor into luke warm water and re run start up. Wait your 3mins after that click of the relay. Fingers crossed. Otherwise hit it with a big hammer.  
Daz


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## np1962

Silo Ted said:


> Here is an attempt to present the wiring in photoshop. Any ideas where it might be failing.
> 
> NOTE TO READERS: THIS IS POSTED AS A QUERY FOR CLARIFICATION PURPOSES - DO NOT FOLLOW THIS DIAGRAM FOR YOUR OWN INSTALLATION.
> 
> View attachment 41875


Quick answer... WRONG!
Will get you a better answer shortly if no-one beats me too it.


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## matr

Silo Ted said:


> Here is an attempt to present the wiring in photoshop. Any ideas where it might be failing.
> 
> NOTE TO READERS: THIS IS POSTED AS A QUERY FOR CLARIFICATION PURPOSES - DO NOT FOLLOW THIS DIAGRAM FOR YOUR OWN INSTALLATION.
> 
> View attachment 41875



your out neutral should go to 2 with the other neutral, your out live goes to 8 and live in 1 should be looped to 7. Also connect the earth wires.. Job done!!


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## np1962

OK Pizza ordered.
Now the active goes to terminals 1,5 and 7.
Neutral goes to terminal 2 and the neutral terminals on the back of your sockets.
From terminal 6 you run a wire to the active terminal on your heating socket and from terminal 8 to the active of your cooling socket.
There is a diagram somewhere but I don't have the time or patience to search for it at the moment.

I will say that given your first attempt I would advise against you using this until you have it checked by someone qualified.

Cheers
Nige


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## ballzac

I think it's a testament to the design of this product that it didn't blow a fuse or something, as when the relay trips, you have active connected straight to neutral. The previous replies have already explained this, but here's my explanation anyway: This device switches the active line. This means that the active wire should be in series through 7 and 8 (and 5 and 6). 

I'm not sure what you thought it did? If 7 & 8 were connected to the active and neutral internally, then you wouldn't have the actives connected. 

As NigeP62 said, get it checked by someone qualified before using it again.

EDIT: Also, as previously mentioned, make sure you connect the earths as well. Fridges tend to be made of steel, and earthing will save your life if there's a problem.


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## barto1308

Silo Ted said:


> Here is an attempt to present the wiring in photoshop. Any ideas where it might be failing.
> 
> NOTE TO READERS: THIS IS POSTED AS A QUERY FOR CLARIFICATION PURPOSES - DO NOT FOLLOW THIS DIAGRAM FOR YOUR OWN INSTALLATION.
> 
> View attachment 41875


Here is a diagram of the correct wiring...

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...si&img=5599


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## np1962

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...mp;#entry616337
This post will help. May need to scroll up a post or two to see photo.
Cheers
Nige


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## Silo Ted

Thanks to all responses, I'll approach this again when Ive not been drinking


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## Silo Ted

Just wired up the controller and testing with a lamp indicates that its working how it should. A huge thanks to the guys who outlined the wiring for me. I cross checked all of your responses against each other, and its all good. 

Now, to build a shelf for the fridge so i can start fermenting the two cubes (a weizen and a 10% double choc porter) I have in reserve :kooi:


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## DKS

Silo Ted said:


> Just wired up the controller and testing with a lamp indicates that its working how it should. A huge thanks to the guys who outlined the wiring for me. I cross checked all of your responses against each other, and its all good.
> 
> Now, to build a shelf for the fridge so i can start fermenting the two cubes (a weizen and a 10% double choc porter) I have in reserve :kooi:



onya Silo
So what was the prob?
(Pm if you want. I can keep a secret. <_< ) 
Daz


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## Drew

Silo Ted said:


> Thanks to all responses, I'll approach this again when Ive not been drinking




oh dear. I'm glad everyone survived.



I love this controller, finally got mine built with flush plugs, fuse and all. But I'm yet to buy a fridge or freezer or a heat mat so I can't really use it yet! ... I've got light bulbs though, and I wonder how well a fan alone will cool down my brew.....


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## Ross

KillerRx4 said:


> He will supply spare probes if you ask. I think they were $3.50 ea.
> 
> I bought a couple to replace the tired & malfunctioning fridgemate & tempmate probes.




Fridgemate & TempMate probes are not interchangeable.

cheers ross


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## DanRayner

Ross said:


> Fridgemate & TempMate probes are not interchangeable.
> 
> cheers ross



how are they different Ross? Is one more sensitive than the other?

I only ask cos Mashmaster advertises one for both


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## Whiteferret

DanRayner said:


> how are they different Ross? Is one more sensitive than the other?
> 
> I only ask cos Mashmaster advertises one for both




Ross means that the Fridgemate and Tempmate wont work on the STC1000 and vice versa


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## Drew

I couldn't resist adding my own circuit diagram. There's enough of these floating around now... I've tried to show exactly how I've used terminal blocks as this was one of the things I was unsure of before beginning.




Hopefully I didn't introduce any errors.


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## wobblythongs

I made mine an internal unit for kegs It was meant to be a fermenter unit but my other digital fridge can run and hold 10c no problems.

Bought the j box of ebay from this bloke http://stores.ebay.com.au/electricalconections

Here are some pics as I took me some time to chase and find the relays and work out how to make it run without problems. The red and black wires are cross over colour wires as I didn't have blue and orange. The fridges internal wiring is .75 mm cable I looped in at 1mm cable.





















Basically all I've done is remove the wiring from the fridges thermostat and wired it into the STC1000. The plastic housing from the old fridges thermostat is still there so the light works even if the fridge is turned off by the STC.


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## Ross

DanRayner said:


> how are they different Ross? Is one more sensitive than the other?
> 
> I only ask cos Mashmaster advertises one for both




The Fridgemate & TempMate are made by different Company's & their probes ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE.

Mashmaster is not offering one for both, he is advertising for his own Fridgemate & Brewmate.

Cheers Ross


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## rude

really happy with my stc 1000 ccing at the moment hopefully better beers at the end of it all


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## Ben6

Hi all,

I have another request about the STC-1000 Thermostat....

i am going to be cutting an extension lead in half and use the male plug as the main, and the female as the heat.. (then just plug my heat source into the female).
i want to wire it to control a heat cord (75watts), i dont want the temp to get any higher than 30 degrees!

can any of you look at the picture below and tell me if this is how i would wire it?? i do not need the cooling part of the stat!!

and with the grounded wires do i combine them together using a connector (main grounded on one side and the heat grounded on the other??

any help would be much appreciated.







Regards
Ben


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## matho

Mate,
The earths must be connected together and if you are using a metal box to mount it in then that must be connected to earth as well
Go to jaycar and get terminal rail rated at 240v or go the the hardware shop, in the electrical section there should be these thing called bp connectors.
You will need to connect the earths together also where the dots on the drawing are you will need to connect those wires together. Remember brown = active. Blue = neutral and green/ yellow = earth

Cheers matho


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## schooey

Dude... I'm pretty sure you'll shrug it off and say f*** off wanker, but if you need to ask these questions, go find a sparky??? All the great quality, cheap beer in the world means bugger all if you fry yourself.... or even worse; someone you love


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## Brown_hound

Hey mate,

I'm a sparkie, so am more than happy to lend a bit of advice..

Have just wired mine up, and am waiting on the fridge- counting the bloody seconds!

a little problem with that diagram- separated earths. They need to be joined with a 2x screw BP connecter to be compliant and safe. Also, an enclosure for the whole lot is an absolute must! Regarding a previous suggestion ie- using a metal box- do not use a metal box unless it itself is earthed!!!!!!!!!!

I've used a weather proof J box with part of the side cut out to slot the brewmaster into.

As for safety, try and maintain double insulation all the way into the enclosure. We all love our family and little fingers can go a wandering.


Cheers buddy.

James.


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## Brown_hound

BTW,

your diagram looks good wiring-wise.

As for earthing---


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## Brown_hound

For eg.


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## Brown_hound

and:


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## Brown_hound

really hope this all helps buddy.


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## Ben6

Brown_hound said:


> Hey mate,
> 
> I'm a sparkie, so am more than happy to lend a bit of advice..
> 
> Have just wired mine up, and am waiting on the fridge- counting the bloody seconds!
> 
> a little problem with that diagram- separated earths. They need to be joined with a 2x screw BP connecter to be compliant and safe. Also, an enclosure for the whole lot is an absolute must! Regarding a previous suggestion ie- using a metal box- do not use a metal box unless it itself is earthed!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I've used a weather proof J box with part of the side cut out to slot the brewmaster into.
> 
> As for safety, try and maintain double insulation all the way into the enclosure. We all love our family and little fingers can go a wandering.
> 
> 
> Cheers buddy.
> 
> James.




Thanks James,

I will be using a plastic zippy box from jarcar / dick-smiths... i will also be using the connectors to wire the mains and heat together aswell not just the earths...

and thanks very much for the pics and taking the time to fix the earths on the diagram. i appreciate it.

Regards
Ben,


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## schooey

Brown_hound said:


> and:



wow.. you're a sparky? can't wait 'til lethalcorpse goes to work on yer arse for a lack of cable glands through the enclosure.... but hey.... sure everyone is o much clearer from this illustration...


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## Brown_hound

schooey said:


> wow.. you're a sparky? can't wait 'til lethalcorpse goes to work on yer arse for a lack of cable glands through the enclosure.... but hey.... sure everyone is o much clearer from this illustration...




Hahaha... Nice.

The holes drilled are as tight as a Nun's..... That's how i got away with it.. Note the extension cord inside the enclosure cable-tied. Not going anywhere in a hurry.

Cheers Bud.

James.


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## Ben6

Ben6 said:


> Thanks James,
> 
> I will be using a plastic zippy box from jarcar / dick-smiths... i will also be using the connectors to wire the mains and heat together aswell not just the earths...
> 
> and thanks very much for the pics and taking the time to fix the earths on the diagram. i appreciate it.
> 
> Regards
> Ben,



i will be using the same sort of box and connectors seen here for this stc-200 stat...


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## Brown_hound

Very nice Ben.


Only thing I would suggest is to give the terminal block a miss with the earth....

Make a join with a 2x scew BP on for good measure instead. 

Or if you're real good with a pair of pliers leave the earth intact!

James.


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## Brown_hound

schooey said:


> Dude... I'm pretty sure you'll shrug it off and say f*** off wanker, but if you need to ask these questions, go find a sparky??? All the great quality, cheap beer in the world means bugger all if you fry yourself.... or even worse; someone you love




BTW Schoo, great advice.. Why risk it?


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## Ben6

Brown_hound said:


> Very nice Ben.
> 
> 
> Only thing I would suggest is to give the terminal block a miss with the earth....
> 
> Make a join with a 2x scew BP on for good measure instead.
> 
> Or if you're real good with a pair of pliers leave the earth intact!
> 
> James.



Ok great, will do... thanks again James!!!


Regards
Ben,


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## goomboogo

Are you going to use this controller in the production of beer? The reason I ask is that it seems strange you don't need the cooling and you mentioned heating up to 30c.


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## Ben6

No im not using it in the production of beer.... i just need it to control the heat on another project.


Regards
Ben,


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## tonyt

Brown_hound said:


> BTW,
> 
> your diagram looks good wiring-wise.
> 
> As for earthing---



Hi Mate, Just wandering if you could help....i just ordered 1 of these. only cooling rquired. Do i simply connect power cord of fridge to 7 and 8? temp sensor to 3 and 4 and power supply to 1 and 2? or do i have to join anything else


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## tonyt

tonyt said:


> View attachment 43173
> 
> 
> Hi Mate, Just wandering if you could help....i just ordered 1 of these. only cooling rquired. Do i simply connect power cord of fridge to 7 and 8? temp sensor to 3 and 4 and power supply to 1 and 2? or do i have to join anything else


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## wilbz

Hey there. I'm a first time poster.. Anyone got a spare STC-1000 unit they want to sell? I have a ETC-200, but I think it just gave up the ghost..  

Let me know.. 

Cheers,

Chris


----------



## komodo

I know im nearly a week after you asked but try this 
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Digital-Temperatur...=item3f06c9df61


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Fellas

I've tacked this onto this thread - as it is sort of on topic

I'm gonna wire one of these up to control a 2400W element 

I've got a 3m extension lead that I was planning to use - its 1.0mm2 cable rated to 10A 2400W 

Is this adequate for extend use (over a brewday) or should I be looking at 1.5mm2 flex cable due to the load?

Cheers


----------



## stuchambers

I'm not an expert at all but I have read somewhere that you should use a relay with a higher Amp rating as the unit is not capable of directly switching the element.
hope someone else can give you a clearer idea.
Cheers Stu


----------



## Cortez The Killer

The specs have 

_Relay contact capacity Cool（10A/250VAC); Heat（10A/250VAC) _

I assume that a relay will not be needed

Cheers


----------



## browndog

Cortez The Killer said:


> The specs have
> 
> _Relay contact capacity Cool（10A/250VAC); Heat（10A/250VAC) _
> 
> I assume that a relay will not be needed
> 
> Cheers



No you won't need a relay, the speed that these on/off controllers flick over are not an issue. A PID on the other hand must have an SSR (some use mechanical relays with no probs) however, I digress, a 10amp lead will be fine, if you have a full load running through it for a length of time it will warm up, but it shoud not overheat if it is a 10amp lead.

cheers

Browndog


----------



## Brown_hound

Cortez The Killer said:


> Fellas
> 
> I've tacked this onto this thread - as it is sort of on topic
> 
> I'm gonna wire one of these up to control a 2400W element
> 
> I've got a 3m extension lead that I was planning to use - its 1.0mm2 cable rated to 10A 2400W
> 
> Is this adequate for extend use (over a brewday) or should I be looking at 1.5mm2 flex cable due to the load?
> 
> Cheers



1.0mm cable, and cord will handle 10a comfortably... For an indefinite period of time...

Most appliances rated to 10a or lower have 1.0mm cable or cord as standard... In fact, some have .75mm...

No need to worry... A separate relay is totally unnecessary for loads requiring 10a or less... The stc-1000's on board relay handles 10a continuously easily.

Hope this helps...


----------



## michael_aussie

Cortez The Killer said:


> Fellas
> 
> I've tacked this onto this thread - as it is sort of on topic
> 
> I'm gonna wire one of these up to control a 2400W element
> 
> I've got a 3m extension lead that I was planning to use - its 1.0mm2 cable rated to 10A 2400W
> 
> Is this adequate for extend use (over a brewday) or should I be looking at 1.5mm2 flex cable due to the load?
> 
> Cheers


IMO I wouldn't use an STC1000 to directly control a 10A load for extended periods.
The internal relays of the STC1000 are rated to 10A, but ... I wouldn't run a 10A load directly off the unit.

I would wire an external relay to the output and wire the load to the external relay.
Relays are dirt cheap, and this will ensure your STC1000 has a longer life.

The extension lead is OK, but once again, if you are going to go to the trouble of setting this all up for the long term, 1.5mm will do a better job and really isn't that more expensive.

2 bobs worth.


----------



## Brown_hound

_IMO I wouldn't use an STC1000 to directly control a 10A load for extended periods. 
... I wouldn't run a 10A load directly off the unit._

Why?
A contact or cable/cord 'rated' to 10A is a contact/cable/cord capable of allowing that amount of current to pass through its conductors for an indefinite period of time without heat increase, significant enough so as to reduce the effective current carrying capacity of said conductors below its rated current carrying capacity.
Conductors rated to 10A are easily capable of handling larger currents for seconds at a time, such as motor starting currents @ 50A for eg.

_I would wire an external relay to the output and wire the load to the external relay.
this will ensure your STC1000 has a longer life._

Not true. The STC-1000's relays are designed for continuous and comfortable 10A flow @ 240V ie. 2.4KW, 2400W.
To suggest that 10A (continuously) will degrade the contacts AT ALL is silly.

All your doing by adding another relay coil into the circuit is increasing the chances of a failure.

_The extension lead is OK, but once again, if you are going to go to the trouble of setting this all up for the long term, 1.5mm will do a better job and really isn't that more expensive._

A totally unnecessary venture.. Why not step it up to 2.5mm... 4mm? Or even 10mm... The limits are boundless. :huh:


----------



## Bada Bing Brewery

tonyt said:


> View attachment 43173
> 
> 
> Hi Mate, Just wandering if you could help....i just ordered 1 of these. only cooling rquired. Do i simply connect power cord of fridge to 7 and 8? temp sensor to 3 and 4 and power supply to 1 and 2? or do i have to join anything else



Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.


----------



## michael_aussie

Bada Bing Brewery said:


> Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.


No, you can't just connect your fridge to the "cooling" terminals and your heat pad to the "heating" outputs.
There are heaps of wiring diagrams on this forum on many different threads showing how to wire up a STC1000.

You could use BrownDogs wiring diagram in the 5th posting of this thread, and instead of wiring to 5 & 6, wire to 7 & 8.


----------



## michael_aussie

Brown_hound said:


> _IMO I wouldn't use an STC1000 to directly control a 10A load for extended periods.
> ... I wouldn't run a 10A load directly off the unit._
> 
> Why?
> A contact or cable/cord 'rated' to 10A is a contact/cable/cord capable of allowing that amount of current to pass through its conductors for an indefinite period of time without heat increase, significant enough so as to reduce the effective current carrying capacity of said conductors below its rated current carrying capacity.
> Conductors rated to 10A are easily capable of handling larger currents for seconds at a time, such as motor starting currents @ 50A for eg.
> 
> _I would wire an external relay to the output and wire the load to the external relay.
> this will ensure your STC1000 has a longer life._
> 
> Not true. The STC-1000's relays are designed for continuous and comfortable 10A flow @ 240V ie. 2.4KW, 2400W.
> To suggest that 10A (continuously) will degrade the contacts AT ALL is silly.
> 
> All your doing by adding another relay coil into the circuit is increasing the chances of a failure.
> 
> _The extension lead is OK, but once again, if you are going to go to the trouble of setting this all up for the long term, 1.5mm will do a better job and really isn't that more expensive._
> 
> A totally unnecessary venture.. Why not step it up to 2.5mm... 4mm? Or even 10mm... The limits are boundless. :huh:


Hi BrownDog,
When I saw your posting immediately above mine, and I was in direct contradiction to you, it didn't surprise me to see you post again.

I will stress, my posting was my opinion.
My posting is what I would do.

I own four STC1000s, and use them to run fridges and a freezer.
IMO (in my opinion) the STC1000s are a great inexpensive unit to control a fridge.
However, IMO, the STC1000 is inexpensive because it is made from relatively low quality components. Although the unit is rated as 10A, running something at its rated capacity is less than ideal. Also, my units had that plastic smell from day 1, and that was without a load fitted.

I stand by my statement, that if I was going to run a 10A load from a STC1000, I would spend the extra $10 or $15 and buy and fit a slave relay. IMO cheap insurance.

The people posting on this forum are after facts AND opinions. I am stating my opinion, and an honest appraisal of what I would do in their position.

Im not wrong because its my opinion and its what I would do.

Cortez The Killer is welcome to do what ever he wants to do.

2c worth.


----------



## Nevalicious

Bada Bing Brewery said:


> Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.



Try here

but make this modification to the earthing

Instead of taking the active to terminal 5, through the n/o contact and out through terminal 6... Take it to terminal 7 and out through 8 to the active of your fridge/unswitched socket etc. Nuetrals and Earths remain as is in the second link 

:icon_cheers: 

Nev


----------



## Nevalicious

michael_aussie said:


> Hi BrownDog,
> When I saw your posting immediately above mine, and I was in direct contradiction to you, it didn't surprise me to see you post again.
> 
> I will stress, my posting was my opinion.
> My posting is what I would do.
> 
> I own four STC1000s, and use them to run fridges and a freezer.
> IMO (in my opinion) the STC1000s are a great inexpensive unit to control a fridge.
> However, IMO, the STC1000 is inexpensive because it is made from relatively low quality components. Although the unit is rated as 10A, running something at its rated capacity is less than ideal. Also, my units had that plastic smell from day 1, and that was without a load fitted.
> 
> I stand by my statement, that if I was going to run a 10A load from a STC1000, I would spend the extra $10 or $15 and buy and fit a slave relay. IMO cheap insurance.
> 
> The people posting on this forum are after facts AND opinions. I am stating my opinion, and an honest appraisal of what I would do in their position.
> 
> Im not wrong because its my opinion and its what I would do.
> 
> Cortez The Killer is welcome to do what ever he wants to do.
> 
> 2c worth.



I'm with you mate. 100% agree with this. No way would I be switching 10A loads through one of these. I too own a couple, but they control a couple of fridges and one globe inside one of the fridges. The most current draw I get is somewhere around 170w. I have no qualms switching less than 1A at any one time... 

You'd run a Birko or Crown urn with a $16 STC-1000 and expect it to last... I wouldn't... 

Slave contactor or relay FTW

Also, use appropriate wiring for the job. 1mm sq flex may have a current carrying capacirty of 10A, but it will heat up and over time with extended periods of current draw, will most likely experience some form of insulation breakdown. 

Nev


----------



## Rodolphe01

I have been using my fridgemate in combination with a timer to control my 2400w urn for getting to trike temp (so my urn is ready for mash in at some crazy hour of the morning). I bought a second controller (stc-1000, hasn't arrived yet) for doing this more often and when i am using my fridgemate for fermenting.

Would I be better off using the 'real' fridgemate for the urn, not using either at all, or it doesn't matter as it is only really switching on once?

I could just use the timer as I pretty much know the temp rise time, however the other day I got held up and ended up getting home late, if i had used a timer my strike water would of been boiling, with the fridgemate in coltrol it was ready to go.


----------



## beerdrinkingbob

Bada Bing Brewery said:


> Maybe bround_dog can clear this up for us??? I too have just got a STC 1000 and for cooling only. Any advice appreciated.



This diagram made the most sense to me, although diagram is a little on the rough side for some reason I was able to follow it easier.

and this is the thread

Good luck mate, it's not hard once you find the right picture that meshes with you brain the best!!


----------



## Bada Bing Brewery

beerdrinkingbob said:


> This diagram made the most sense to me, although diagram is a little on the rough side for some reason I was able to follow it easier.
> 
> and this is the thread
> 
> Good luck mate, it's not hard once you find the right picture that meshes with you brain the best!!



Beerdrinkingbob - thats what I'm talking about - something at my level, colours and squiggly lines. Easy as ....... many thanks


----------



## Nick JD

I just set up a STC1000 temperature controller and thought I'd better say how I nearly broke it setting it up. 

The terminals for the cooling relay (7 and 8) in and out appeared to be like the others - wound right out so the wire can be inserted and tightened - but they were wound right _in. _Really tight. So much so that I bent the crap out of the plastic terminal block loosening them off and I'm really surprised it didn't break the connection. 

Just a heads up. I straightened the terminal block and it's running fine. Not sure if others have done this too - but if you buy an extension cord and cut it you have cheap, sealed male and female plugs ready to go.







This diagram is great. Thanks to whoever drew it :icon_cheers: .






Testing to see if I broke it! All good - cooling turned on and off.






Total cost is under $25 (box and connector block from jaycar and extension cord from bunnings).

Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes? 

What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?


----------



## raven19

Nick JD said:


> Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes?
> 
> What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?



Nice build fella.

I have not touched the settings (apart from temperature) in mine since it arrive. I have had no issues for fridge (or HLT for that matter) control thus far.


----------



## beerbrewer76543

Compressor delay doesn't really matter as far as I know...

The difference set value will determine the temperature band your brew will sit between. I set mine for 1.5 degrees so the fridge motor isn't going on and off too frequently

You can also calibrate the sensor using the F4 function. Put the probe in icy water for a reference temp of 0*C then adjust the F4 value to show the temp as 0*C. I had accidentally changed mine on the weekend so I was fermenting at 16*C instead of 18*C. I wondered why my 1469 was taking so long to take off. Fixed it last night and its at 19*C now (day 4)

Cheers :icon_cheers:


----------



## ThatKiwiFella

I too was wondering about the compressor delay setting... I have mine set to the max (10 minutes) but that is only because I have a really really old freezer and I didn't want it cycling on/off all the time. Also being a chest freezer the insulation is pretty good - I do find it over shoots a bit though (1 - 1.5 degrees) but I can live with that.

I too am interested to see what others thoughts are on the delay?


----------



## wood88

Nick JD said:


> This diagram is great. Thanks to whoever drew it :icon_cheers:



Glad you found it useful


----------



## bradsbrew

Can you get similar jiffy boxes from bunnings? I know you can get them from jaycar and CB but bunnings is on the way home.

Cheers


----------



## Cortez The Killer

I've had mine running at 10 mins 

Cheers


----------



## Nick JD

bradsbrew said:


> Can you get similar jiffy boxes from bunnings? I know you can get them from jaycar and CB but bunnings is on the way home.
> 
> Cheers



I didn't look - but they must have something that would hold it. 

That box was $6. It was easy to drill and cut with a fine-tooth metal jigsaw blade. I think it's ABS plastic.

It's also upside down, but that made it easier to wire.


----------



## TBird

Does anybody know if a Thermocouple K Type probe temperature sensor will work with the STC 1000?

I've seen them on e-Bay and being stainless I thought about buying one to put into the wort (if it will work).

Thanks and cheers


----------



## toadskin

TBird said:


> Does anybody know if a Thermocouple K Type probe temperature sensor will work with the STC 1000?
> 
> I've seen them on e-Bay and being stainless I thought about buying one to put into the wort (if it will work).
> 
> Thanks and cheers



I was thinking along similar lines. I sent an email to the manufacturer and am awaiting their reply. I'll let you know.


----------



## markymoo

the STC 1000 uses an NTC Thermistor which unfortunately is not a thermocouple like the k-type you are looking at on ebay.

unfortunately not interchangeable.

(the difference is that a thermistor varies its resistance and thermocouple generates a small voltage at different temperatures if my memory serves me right)

p.s. this is going on my limited knowledge on this stuff, but i think im am correct, hopefully corrected if wrong.


----------



## Wolfy

Nick JD said:


> The terminals for the cooling relay (7 and 8) in and out appeared to be like the others - wound right out so the wire can be inserted and tightened - but they were wound right _in. _Really tight. So much so that I bent the crap out of the plastic terminal block loosening them off and I'm really surprised it didn't break the connection.
> ...
> Total cost is under $25 (box and connector block from jaycar and extension cord from bunnings).


I suspect that these two things are related, some old saying about getting what you pay for. 
Having said, that I actually prefer the function of my STC1000 over the much more expensive Tempmate, so I'm not knocking it, especially at that price.


----------



## Florian

Nick JD said:


> Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes?
> 
> What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?



It is recommended to set the compressor delay to the maximum, that gives your compressor always at least 10 minutes to settle before it is switched on again. You then can set the difference set value to the minimum if you prefer, knowing that your compressor doesn't switch on/off every minute.


----------



## TBird

markymoo said:


> the STC 1000 uses an NTC Thermistor which unfortunately is not a thermocouple like the k-type you are looking at on ebay.
> 
> unfortunately not interchangeable.
> 
> (the difference is that a thermistor varies its resistance and thermocouple generates a small voltage at different temperatures if my memory serves me right)
> 
> p.s. this is going on my limited knowledge on this stuff, but i think im am correct, hopefully corrected if wrong.




Thanks markymoo

You prevented me from getting a big disappointment!

Cheers


----------



## beerdrinkingbob

wood88 said:


> Glad you found it useful



Wood88, yours was by far the easiest to follow for me, not sure if it was the way the set it out or detail etc, I took one look and went "I get it".

Great job mate and thanks for taking the time to share with us :beerbang:

Edit: did you know that they are using your drawing overseas, your almost famous!


----------



## Bribie G

I was going to get another Fridgemate for my new (approaching) fridge - My current Fridgemate is dead reliable and seems to know what it's doing - what would be the advantages of a STC 1000? I don't need heating - far from it, being coastal SEQ. 

How much is the unit? It seems to be similar to the Fridgemate in the wiring exercise.


----------



## Malted

So is one able to purchace a NTC thermistor probe to suit a STC1000 that is stainless and has a threaded end, and if so, where from?

EDIT: Bribie, I think I got one for $35 delivered. Look on eBay. It took 40+ days to get here from Hong Kong (must have been the new year celebrations holding the post?) but in the mean time they've sent me another that is on it's way.


----------



## Amber Fluid

Malted said:


> So is one able to purchace a NTC thermistor probe to suit a STC1000 that is stainless and has a threaded end, and if so, where from?
> 
> EDIT: Bribie, I think I got one for $35 delivered. Look on eBay. It took 40+ days to get here from Hong Kong (must have been the new year celebrations holding the post?) but in the mean time they've sent me another that is on it's way.




You may want to ask Ross to see if THIS is compatible.


----------



## QldKev

Malted said:


> So is one able to purchace a NTC thermistor probe to suit a STC1000 that is stainless and has a threaded end, and if so, where from?
> 
> EDIT: Bribie, I think I got one for $35 delivered. Look on eBay. It took 40+ days to get here from Hong Kong (must have been the new year celebrations holding the post?) but in the mean time they've sent me another that is on it's way.



Ross has S/S threaded NTC probes
http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955



Also I just picked up a couple of STC-1000 for $17 each (inc post) 

QldKev


----------



## pimpsqueak

BribieG said:


> I was going to get another Fridgemate for my new (approaching) fridge - My current Fridgemate is dead reliable and seems to know what it's doing - what would be the advantages of a STC 1000? I don't need heating - far from it, being coastal SEQ.
> 
> How much is the unit? It seems to be similar to the Fridgemate in the wiring exercise.




Got mine off ebay for $26 delivered. Took 8 or 9 days to get here from HK. Cost another $30 or so for the extra bits required from Jaycar.


----------



## [email protected]

I found wood88 drawing priceless in wiring up mine as well. I have it saved to my HD.

I have my compressor delay running at 5mins (fairly new fridge i scored for cheap) - fridge is in a pretty cool, stable temp area - it hardly ever comes on.
I run the temp difference at 0.5C - when im CCing this is changed to 2C so that shes not working as hard all the time.


----------



## fcmcg

beerdrinkingbob said:


> Wood88, yours was by far the easiest to follow for me, not sure if it was the way the set it out or detail etc, I took one look and went "I get it".
> 
> Great job mate and thanks for taking the time to share with us :beerbang:
> 
> Edit: did you know that they are using your drawing overseas, your almost famous!


I used the drawing when i put mine together....
I also "happily" took mine apart , last Sunday , to show Bob how i wired it up....
Bloody thing fried...not sure why/how...unplugged it before we unscrewed the jiffy box...but i didn't turn the unit itself off , before i pulled it outta the power...
Just ordered a new one...only paid $23 for this one....
Bloody thing....
Still love it though....


----------



## Amber Fluid

pimpsqueak said:


> Got mine off ebay for $26 delivered. Took 8 or 9 days to get here from HK. Cost another $30 or so for the extra bits required from Jaycar.



Someone saw you coming for $30

Jiffy Box from Ross = $4.90
2 ext cords from work = $0
1 x 3 terminal block to join wires = $0 from a friend

Only cost me $4.90 all up but if you had to pay for everything you should have been able to do it for under $20 I reckon.


----------



## Malted

QldKev said:


> Also I just picked up a couple of STC-1000 for $17 each (inc post)



Really! You've certainly won the price war. Are they STC1000, or miniature aquarium temp controllers that look alike? Where from? Share Share.

Edit: He he mine will have cost me about $17 each, once the 'replacement' arrives. Honestly the first did not arrive until after the supplier agreed to send me another since the first had not arrived. My conscience is clear.


----------



## pimpsqueak

Amber Fluid said:


> Someone saw you coming for $30
> 
> Jiffy Box from Ross = $4.90
> 2 ext cords from work = $0
> 1 x 3 terminal block to join wires = $0 from a friend
> 
> Only cost me $4.90 all up but if you had to pay for everything you should have been able to do it for under $20 I reckon.



The jiffy box was $6 or so. I bought one extension cord for another $8 and two flush mount sockets at about $9 ea. I reckon the way I have put it together (like some other forum members) looks pretty neat, not like some flacid robo-octopus.
If I bought the cord from bunnings I could have saved $2 or $3. The main expense is the two sockets.


----------



## HeavyNova

Nick JD said:


> Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes?
> 
> What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?



I have mine at 3 mins. From what I understand this means that it'll be a 3 minute delay from when your STC1000 sees that it need to switch the fridge back on to when it actually applies the power. For the purpose of an explaination - If I have mine set to hold at 17 degrees with a 0.5 degree tolerance it'll switch on at 17.5 and run the fridge until it the probe reads 16.5 degrees. the fridge will slowly warm up to 17.5 again and the STC will see that it's time to switch back on, wait 3 mins then do crank her up again.

Since the fridge warms slowly while it's off the difference in stress on the compressor would be very little between a 3 minute and a 10 min compressor delay as it's already been off for 50 mins (or something like that). So it'll be 53 min or 60 minute break for the comnpressor - not a big difference.

I've heard newer fridges have a safety thing which prevents overworking of the compressor. Mines new and it always cranks up on time so it's not being overworked.

I think it would only be an important feature when running an old fridge in a different situation.

The way I see it: The lower the delay, the faster the fridge starts up to keep your brew closer to the the temperature you set.

P.S. The above explaination is based on my own common sense. Sorry if anything is wrong!


----------



## QldKev

Malted said:


> Really! You've certainly won the price war. Are they STC1000, or miniature aquarium temp controllers that look alike? Where from? Share Share.
> 
> Edit: He he mine will have cost me about $17 each, once the 'replacement' arrives. Honestly the first did not arrive until after the supplier agreed to send me another since the first had not arrived. My conscience is clear.



http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT 

It's closed now but there are a few just over the $20 mark.

Also keep an eye on ebay.com sometimes you get a better bargain from there

QldKev


----------



## tavas

bradsbrew said:


> Can you get similar jiffy boxes from bunnings? I know you can get them from jaycar and CB but bunnings is on the way home.
> 
> Cheers



Not that I have seen. Jaycar or CB is your best bet. i used a tupperware container and taped the lid down so little fingers don't go prying.


----------



## Nick JD

QldKev said:


> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT
> 
> It's closed now but there are a few just over the $20 mark.
> 
> Also keep an eye on ebay.com sometimes you get a better bargain from there
> 
> QldKev



That's the one. Less than 17 now the dollar's so beefy.


----------



## michael_aussie

Rudi 101 said:


> I have been using my fridgemate in combination with a timer to control my 2400w urn for getting to trike temp (so my urn is ready for mash in at some crazy hour of the morning). I bought a second controller (stc-1000, hasn't arrived yet) for doing this more often and when i am using my fridgemate for fermenting.
> 
> Would I be better off using the 'real' fridgemate for the urn, not using either at all, or it doesn't matter as it is only really switching on once?
> 
> I could just use the timer as I pretty much know the temp rise time, however the other day I got held up and ended up getting home late, if i had used a timer my strike water would of been boiling, with the fridgemate in coltrol it was ready to go.


Rudi,
If I were you, I'd keep using your Fridgemate for your urn.. and continuing to use your combination of this and a timer to ensure you have your urn ready for you overnight.
and use your new STC100 from your fermenting fridge.


----------



## goomboogo

Bada Bing Brewery and Michael Aussie; you have referred to posts by brown hound but you have called him browndog. They are different people. These guys may not mind but some may get a little upset if their name is used regarding the wiring of electrical items when in fact they had nothing to do with the information. Just saying.


----------



## Bada Bing Brewery

goomboogo said:


> Bada Bing Brewery and Michael Aussie; you have referred to posts by brown hound but you have called him browndog. They are different people. These guys may not mind but some may get a little upset if their name is used regarding the wiring of electrical items when in fact they had nothing to do with the information. Just saying.



Honest mistake - apologies


----------



## wood88

beerdrinkingbob said:


> Wood88, yours was by far the easiest to follow for me, not sure if it was the way the set it out or detail etc, I took one look and went "I get it".
> 
> Great job mate and thanks for taking the time to share with us :beerbang:
> 
> Edit: did you know that they are using your drawing overseas, your almost famous!



How dare they  oh well at least they acknowledging they got it from ahb 
and i guess the main fact of the drawing was to help people out in wiring these controllers and it seems to be doing its job. :icon_cheers:


----------



## Malted

#Wades into it with the benefit of a few bevies under the belt#

Do you often see chefs saying, no you shouldn't cook because if you don't get the core temp above 70oC you won't kill the bugs and they'll kill you man. Eat at a restaurant, get a qualified chef!
Will they share secret knowledge: you see plenty of recipes floating around.

Do you see chippies saying, nah man saws and stuff have teeth, if you don't know what a mitre joint is man they'll take your hand off, get a qualified carpenter. 
Will they share secret knowledge: I see plenty of clearly drawn construction diagrams and plans around.

Do you see welders saying if you don't know the difference between ferrous metals and non ferrous metals you shouldn't be welding. Welders can burn you, send you blind and use high amps man and they'll kill you quick smart. Get a qualified welder to do it for you!
Will they share secret knowledge: I see a few blokes saying run low amps and direct the weld to the thicker material.

Do you see a taxi driver saying, if you don't know where it is man, you shouldn't be driving there, you might be in an accident and get killed. Get a qualified (?) driver, catch a cab! Will they share secret knowledge: Refidex, Sat nav etc...

Do you see a sparky saying, if you don't understand the wiring diagram, you'll get fried. It's not worth it man. Get a qualified electrician to do it for you! 
Will they share secret knowledge: Yes but wiring daigrams are like some sort of secret language that you need advanced knowledge to interpret. Do they sprook gobledegook that average Joe Bloe can't understand when they do offer advice?


There's plenty of shiite that can potentially kill you, if you don't do it correctly. Clear and precise instructions that are aimed at the every day person in a language they can understand, so he/she can save a few bucks and complete a simple job (if he/she had good advice)...

Just saying...  
(smile inserted to convey sense of good natured shit stirring intent. However, it is probably going to make some folks very angry, maybe not people who are_ not_ sparkies).


----------



## michael_aussie

goomboogo said:


> Bada Bing Brewery and Michael Aussie; you have referred to posts by brown hound but you have called him browndog. They are different people. These guys may not mind but some may get a little upset if their name is used regarding the wiring of electrical items when in fact they had nothing to do with the information. Just saying.


ooops,, ty for pointing that out.
sorry brown hound and brown dog.

it's frustrating that after a short period of time, you can't you edit your own posting here...
why is that?????


----------



## Wolfy

BribieG said:


> I was going to get another Fridgemate for my new (approaching) fridge - My current Fridgemate is dead reliable and seems to know what it's doing - what would be the advantages of a STC 1000? I don't need heating - far from it, being coastal SEQ.
> 
> How much is the unit? It seems to be similar to the Fridgemate in the wiring exercise.


Same concept, same function, if you can wire one you can wire the other, no real differences there.
The STC 1000 comes from Ebay at about 1/3 the price, but you also get what you pay for, including no warranty or fall-back. Having said that there seems to be a large number of people here who use them and I've not noticed one complaint.

I do prefer the adjustment/function control on the STC 1000, it just seems a bit easier to use when compared to my Tempmate.


----------



## mh971

Malted said:


> #Wades into it with the benefit of a few bevies under the belt#
> 
> Do you often see chefs saying, no you shouldn't cook because if you don't get the core temp above 70oC you won't kill the bugs and they'll kill you man. Eat at a restaurant, get a qualified chef!
> Will they share secret knowledge: you see plenty of recipes floating around.
> 
> Do you see chippies saying, nah man saws and stuff have teeth, if you don't know what a mitre joint is man they'll take your hand off, get a qualified carpenter.
> Will they share secret knowledge: I see plenty of clearly drawn construction diagrams and plans around.
> 
> Do you see welders saying if you don't know the difference between ferrous metals and non ferrous metals you shouldn't be welding. Welders can burn you, send you blind and use high amps man and they'll kill you quick smart. Get a qualified welder to do it for you!
> Will they share secret knowledge: I see a few blokes saying run low amps and direct the weld to the thicker material.
> 
> Do you see a taxi driver saying, if you don't know where it is man, you shouldn't be driving there, you might be in an accident and get killed. Get a qualified (?) driver, catch a cab! Will they share secret knowledge: Refidex, Sat nav etc...
> 
> Do you see a sparky saying, if you don't understand the wiring diagram, you'll get fried. It's not worth it man. Get a qualified electrician to do it for you!
> Will they share secret knowledge: Yes but wiring daigrams are like some sort of secret language that you need advanced knowledge to interpret. Do they sprook gobledegook that average Joe Bloe can't understand when they do offer advice?
> 
> 
> There's plenty of shiite that can potentially kill you, if you don't do it correctly. Clear and precise instructions that are aimed at the every day person in a language they can understand, so he/she can save a few bucks and complete a simple job (if he/she had good advice)...
> 
> Just saying...
> (smile inserted to convey sense of good natured shit stirring intent. However, it is probably going to make some folks very angry, maybe not people who are_ not_ sparkies).



Malted you forgot to add Dentists and Surgeons to your lovely list, If they just gave free advice too then some of the poeple injured by DIYing all the other specialty skills you mentioned could have a shot at saving a few bucks on treatment too. 

Clear and precise instructions just sometimes don't get through, Yes maybe you can do it, and maybe all your mates could too, but somewhere on here will be someone who couldn't and shouldn't. If I wasn't an electrican I would still do it, I know i would, but knowing what I know about people and electricity I can't aid and abet it.

This is only because over the years I have helped out mates and relatives with phone advice and given people sketches and have come to learn that you shouldn't make assumptions that all people have A) the level of required understanding to follow diagrams correctly, B ) the correct tools which make it easy, C) the dexterity to do what seems so easy to many. 

I won't risk giving advice to a faceless stranger on a forum because you can't know people's capabilities. 

If someone inadvertantly stuffs up the earth connection on a DIY project (clear instructions to leave earth un-cut I hear you say - I have seen earths cut 3/4 the way through by the knife used to strip the outer sheath and not noticed by the novice who did it) and a fault develops in the appliance (maybe years later) making it live, then the next person to touch it could be electrocuted. Not so bad if it's the dill who did it, not so good for their family though, and much much worse if the victim was a child.

People die or are injured every year in the examples you give above so clearly the risks are real. Best if people either do the proper research themselves in books and manuals and then decide, rather than be told here no worries do this you'll be right, we all did it.


----------



## pimpsqueak

Clear and precise instructions that are specifically created for a non-professional user are fine, but you can't ignore the fact that there is a percentage of clueless twits in every area of society. The mystery is, how the bloody hell do you identify them and ensure you don't give them any advice that may convince them that "She'll be right" and results in a trip to the emergency room. You may be able to gauge someones level of comprehension when you're face to face, but in a forum that will prove to be tricky indeed. Just saying...


----------



## mh971

pimpsqueak said:


> Clear and precise instructions that are specifically created for a non-professional user are fine, but you can't ignore the fact that there is a percentage of clueless twits in every area of society. The mystery is, how the bloody hell do you identify them and ensure you don't give them any advice that may convince them that "She'll be right" and results in a trip to the emergency room. You may be able to gauge someones level of comprehension when you're face to face, but in a forum that will prove to be tricky indeed. Just saying...



Exactly, 

I am envious of your succintness B) .

Our licensing Authority in SA puts out a magazine to all licensed plumbers, gas fitters and electricians and regularly shows examples of dangerous work done by clueless twits who actually managed to pass trade licensing exams and obtained a licence. 

You would really want to know who you're taking advice from too, they may be the clueless twit. (in fairness I haven't noticed any bad electrical advice on here but just saying...)


----------



## Amber Fluid

pimpsqueak said:


> I reckon the way I have put it together (like some other forum members) looks pretty neat, not like some flacid robo-octopus.




That's fine but when I get mine together you will see that it will be very similar and not a "flacid robo-octopus" either. Nevertheless, I love the terminology :super:


----------



## browndog

Malted said:


> #Wades into it with the benefit of a few bevies under the belt#
> 
> Do you often see chefs saying, no you shouldn't cook because if you don't get the core temp above 70oC you won't kill the bugs and they'll kill you man. Eat at a restaurant, get a qualified chef!
> Will they share secret knowledge: you see plenty of recipes floating around.
> 
> Do you see chippies saying, nah man saws and stuff have teeth, if you don't know what a mitre joint is man they'll take your hand off, get a qualified carpenter.
> Will they share secret knowledge: I see plenty of clearly drawn construction diagrams and plans around.
> 
> Do you see welders saying if you don't know the difference between ferrous metals and non ferrous metals you shouldn't be welding. Welders can burn you, send you blind and use high amps man and they'll kill you quick smart. Get a qualified welder to do it for you!
> Will they share secret knowledge: I see a few blokes saying run low amps and direct the weld to the thicker material.
> 
> Do you see a taxi driver saying, if you don't know where it is man, you shouldn't be driving there, you might be in an accident and get killed. Get a qualified (?) driver, catch a cab! Will they share secret knowledge: Refidex, Sat nav etc...
> 
> Do you see a sparky saying, if you don't understand the wiring diagram, you'll get fried. It's not worth it man. Get a qualified electrician to do it for you!
> Will they share secret knowledge: Yes but wiring daigrams are like some sort of secret language that you need advanced knowledge to interpret. Do they sprook gobledegook that average Joe Bloe can't understand when they do offer advice?
> 
> 
> There's plenty of shiite that can potentially kill you, if you don't do it correctly. Clear and precise instructions that are aimed at the every day person in a language they can understand, so he/she can save a few bucks and complete a simple job (if he/she had good advice)...
> 
> Just saying...
> (smile inserted to convey sense of good natured shit stirring intent. However, it is probably going to make some folks very angry, maybe not people who are_ not_ sparkies).



Many years back I had a mate who was electrocuted at 21yrs of age, I wonder what his advice would be to the would-be electricians here.

-BD


----------



## Malted

#said in the sober light of day#  
To be fair, Mick71 and Pimpsqueak make some valid points


----------



## mwd

browndog said:


> Many years back I had a mate who was electrocuted at 21yrs of age, I wonder what his advice would be to the would-be electricians here.
> 
> -BD




I would think it is very much more difficult these days in modern buildings with circuit breakers instead of the old fuses. I can trip the circuit breaker just changing a light bulb. 

+1 if you cannot read a circuit or wiring diagram then mucking around with electrics is definitely not for you.


----------



## Brown_hound

browndog said:


> Many years back I had a mate who was electrocuted at 21yrs of age, I wonder what his advice would be to the would-be electricians here.
> 
> -BD



Sorry to hear bout your mate...

Could I ask how your bud got zapped? (without being callous)?

Probably a good idea the would-be's know how dangerous this 'electricity' stuff is...

The reality is, inside a switchboard for example, getting between 2 strips of copper can literally cook you in 3 seconds..

Can I advise those whom are seeking advice on this site to please either seek advice first and foremost from a mate who is a sparkie, or a member here who is one themselves (myself included...).

Advice is free from the right people, and none of us want fellow brewers getting hurt!

Hound.


----------



## Brown_hound

Nevalicious said:


> I'm with you mate. 100% agree with this. No way would I be switching 10A loads through one of these. I too own a couple, but they control a couple of fridges and one globe inside one of the fridges. The most current draw I get is somewhere around 170w. I have no qualms switching less than 1A at any one time...
> 
> You'd run a Birko or Crown urn with a $16 STC-1000 and expect it to last... I wouldn't...
> 
> Slave contactor or relay FTW
> 
> Also, use appropriate wiring for the job. 1mm sq flex may have a current carrying capacirty of 10A, but it will heat up and over time with extended periods of current draw, will most likely experience some form of insulation breakdown.
> 
> Nev




Read my earlier post... That or 2 more options.

1. Read the AS 3008 (cable selection) standard. Or;
2. Check the 'insulation breakdown' on your tv set or toaster...


----------



## Brown_hound

Tropical_Brews said:


> I would think it is very much more difficult these days in modern buildings with circuit breakers instead of the old fuses. I can trip the circuit breaker just changing a light bulb.
> 
> +1 if you cannot read a circuit or wiring diagram then mucking around with electrics is definitely not for you.



Circuit Breakers/Fuses, RCDs are very different cousins...

Contrary to common belief, circuit breakers are intended for one purpose... Protecting the physical wiring they're a part of... That, and the relevant attached appliances...

For protecting people and the like, Residual Current Devices are the commonly used medium. In short, leakage to earth of greater than 30mA causes the RCD to trip.

Both break a cir


----------



## Amber Fluid

Amber Fluid said:


> That's fine but when I get mine together you will see that it will be very similar and not a "flacid robo-octopus" either. Nevertheless, I love the terminology :super:




Not too bad for a flacid robo-octopus if I must say so myself :beerbang:


----------



## browndog

Brown_hound said:


> Sorry to hear bout your mate...
> 
> Could I ask how your bud got zapped? (without being callous)?
> 
> Probably a good idea the would-be's know how dangerous this 'electricity' stuff is...
> 
> The reality is, inside a switchboard for example, getting between 2 strips of copper can literally cook you in 3 seconds..
> 
> Can I advise those whom are seeking advice on this site to please either seek advice first and foremost from a mate who is a sparkie, or a member here who is one themselves (myself included...).
> 
> Advice is free from the right people, and none of us want fellow brewers getting hurt!
> 
> Hound.



he was on a building site and grabbed a bare cable that had 11000V going though it. Died instantly. I know it's not the same as wiring up a controller, but it does not hurt to give people a solid reminder of the dangers of electricity.

-BD


----------



## michael_aussie

Amber Fluid said:


> Not too bad for a flacid robo-octopus if I must say so myself :beerbang:


nice set up, but not a "flacid robo-octopus".

You only get a "flacid robo-octopus" if you wire in cables with female plugs for the heating and the cooling.

Technicially you actually get a "flacid robo-quadpus" (if you count the line in, the two lines out and the temperature probe).


----------



## Nick JD

All this worry about electrocution ... I'd be more worried about fire.


----------



## beerbrewer76543

What's wrong with a flacid robo-quadpus?


----------



## Shifter

Amber Fluid said:


> Not too bad for a flacid robo-octopus if I must say so myself :beerbang:



Looks very professional Amber. Still waiting for mine to come from China - reckon the pigeon has flown the coup!


----------



## Amber Fluid

The Jiffy Box that Ross sells is the perfect size for the job and cheap too. Admittingly it took a while to cut all the holes but I only had a drill, jigsaw blade and file and with a bit of figiting around, I finally got there. Checked the wiring about 10 times before I turned it on. Nevertheless, all works as it should :beerbang: 

I was debating with myself how long to have the mains cord but ended up going with about 2 meters.


----------



## Malted

Brown_hound said:


> Circuit Breakers/Fuses, RCDs are very different cousins...
> 
> Contrary to common belief, circuit breakers are intended for one purpose... Protecting the physical wiring they're a part of... That, and the relevant attached appliances...
> 
> For protecting people and the like, Residual Current Devices are the commonly used medium. In short, leakage to earth of greater than 30mA causes the RCD to trip.
> 
> Both break a cir




This i why I have all power in my shed running through breakers for each circuit on a panel (or what ever the proper name is) in the shed and everything runs through an RCD also in the shed. Oh and yes it was done by a licenced and certified professional electrician. 
I reckon an RCD is a great thing to have in your shed.

When we bought the house August last year, it did not have an RCD in the main fusebox or the shed. I got a licenced electrician to instal one in the main fuse box and in the sub-fusebox in the shed and install hard wired smoke alarms. We are in SA and I think the house was built in 1992.

Any SA sparkies want to comment on the legality of selling a house without hard wired smoke alarms or an RCD? Do I have any form of recourse?


----------



## pimpsqueak

Amber Fluid said:


> Not too bad for a flacid robo-octopus if I must say so myself :beerbang:



Not too shabby at all dude. Apart from my outlets being on the side rather than the back, ours are pretty much identical. 
Nice work 

Just to clarify.. If I could have my pick of any pet in the world, real or imaginary, I am pretty sure I would go with a Robo-Octopus. Probably be handy to have around on brew day too.


----------



## [email protected]

Just finished mine off. Not as nice looking as Amber-fluids, but still it will do the trick. 

I threw a 5A circuit breaker in mine for safe measure. Mainly because I'm sneaking power from strata so that my fridge can go in my storeroom. The breaker should stop the box tripping strata power and causing all the fire doors to shut.


----------



## doxhead

Hi all, 

I bought one of these STC1000s and I'm going to get the jiffy box and wotnot tomorrow from Jaycar so that I can finish off the build. The whole thing appeals to my sense of poverty. I was originally looking at trying to build something myself with an Arduino but it's hardly worth the effort with the STC1000 being so cheap.

Dox


----------



## Amber Fluid

I get my fridge on Saturday so am starting to get excited. I still need something for heat, so am thinking about either a light bulb, mat or a belt but am undecided so far.
I'll need heat where I am. The brew I put down last week is sitting comfortably at 18C so come winter it is going to drop lower for sure.


----------



## browndog

Amber Fluid said:


> I get my fridge on Saturday so am starting to get excited. I still need something for heat, so am thinking about either a light bulb, mat or a belt but am undecided so far.
> I'll need heat where I am. The brew I put down last week is sitting comfortably at 18C so come winter it is going to drop lower for sure.



You could wire your controller up something like this




The Fridgemaster can only heat or cool at a any one time, I connect two heat belts into it in winter and have one near the bottom of the fermenter and one closer to the top to keep the wort at a stable temp in cold weather.


----------



## barls

Malted said:


> #Wades into it with the benefit of a few bevies under the belt#
> 
> Do you often see chefs saying, no you shouldn't cook because if you don't get the core temp above 70oC you won't kill the bugs and they'll kill you man. Eat at a restaurant, get a qualified chef!
> Will they share secret knowledge: you see plenty of recipes floating around.
> 
> Do you see chippies saying, nah man saws and stuff have teeth, if you don't know what a mitre joint is man they'll take your hand off, get a qualified carpenter.
> Will they share secret knowledge: I see plenty of clearly drawn construction diagrams and plans around.
> 
> Do you see welders saying if you don't know the difference between ferrous metals and non ferrous metals you shouldn't be welding. Welders can burn you, send you blind and use high amps man and they'll kill you quick smart. Get a qualified welder to do it for you!
> Will they share secret knowledge: I see a few blokes saying run low amps and direct the weld to the thicker material.
> 
> Do you see a taxi driver saying, if you don't know where it is man, you shouldn't be driving there, you might be in an accident and get killed. Get a qualified (?) driver, catch a cab! Will they share secret knowledge: Refidex, Sat nav etc...
> 
> Do you see a sparky saying, if you don't understand the wiring diagram, you'll get fried. It's not worth it man. Get a qualified electrician to do it for you!
> Will they share secret knowledge: Yes but wiring daigrams are like some sort of secret language that you need advanced knowledge to interpret. Do they sprook gobledegook that average Joe Bloe can't understand when they do offer advice?
> 
> 
> There's plenty of shiite that can potentially kill you, if you don't do it correctly. Clear and precise instructions that are aimed at the every day person in a language they can understand, so he/she can save a few bucks and complete a simple job (if he/she had good advice)...
> 
> Just saying...
> (smile inserted to convey sense of good natured shit stirring intent. However, it is probably going to make some folks very angry, maybe not people who are_ not_ sparkies).



mate there are dodgy bastards out there. this is one i had to rewire. it was apparently done by a back yard electrician.




can anyone pick whats wrong with this wiring on a twin element urn, it was tripping the rcd. the ends of the elements are left and right of the pairs. ie two lefts and two rights.

the person that was using it was bloody lucky not to be zapped.

you also left out engineers and chemists.


----------



## michael_aussie

browndog said:


> You could wire your controller up something like this
> 
> View attachment 44579
> 
> 
> The Fridgemaster can only heat or cool at a any one time, I connect two heat belts into it in winter and have one near the bottom of the fermenter and one closer to the top to keep the wort at a stable temp in cold weather.


I like the idea of the double power-point outlet.
It makes a neater finish than wiring in 2 female sockets on leads.
Fitting a male computer socket for the incoming power, and then using a computer cable, and fitting a head-phone socket for the probe, and a head phone plug on the end of your probe cable, leaves you with a simple "box" that you plug and play, however, it will be slighly more expensive.


----------



## Peteoz77

I have wired up a LOT of temp controllers, and I do it as cheaply as possible. I buy 2 meter extension leads for less than $3. One is good for Fridgemate, and two are good for STC1000. No extra cutting, fitting etc, just Less than $6 for two cords.


----------



## michael_aussie

Peteoz77 said:


> I have wired up a LOT of temp controllers, and I do it as cheaply as possible. I buy 2 meter extension leads for less than $3. One is good for Fridgemate, and two are good for STC1000. No extra cutting, fitting etc, just Less than $6 for two cords.


Me too.
That's how I've done mine too.
It is cheaper, and it is easier, but I do acknowledge, that all the cords look messy.


----------



## Yob

barls said:


> mate there are dodgy bastards out there. this is one i had to rewire. it was apparently done by a back yard electrician.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can anyone pick whats wrong with this wiring on a twin element urn, it was tripping the rcd. the ends of the elements are left and right of the pairs. ie two lefts and two rights.
> 
> the person that was using it was bloody lucky not to be zapped.
> 
> you also left out engineers and chemists.



is i tthe fact that the earth is attatched to a bit of steel that is just laying on the urn? er... shouldnt it be insulated?


----------



## Amber Fluid

browndog said:


> You could wire your controller up something like this
> 
> View attachment 44579
> 
> 
> The Fridgemaster can only heat or cool at a any one time, I connect two heat belts into it in winter and have one near the bottom of the fermenter and one closer to the top to keep the wort at a stable temp in cold weather.



I have the STC 1000, you can see it in the pics above. I was also thinking of going the double power point but the box I had didn't give much room for it and I didn't think about mounting it on top :blink: .
I am actually thinking to go the light bulb or the mat. Having to remove and replace when cleaning the kit doesn't really apeal to me. I can be a lazy buggar.



michael_aussie said:


> Fitting a male computer socket for the incoming power, and then using a computer cable, and fitting a head-phone socket for the probe, and a head phone plug on the end of your probe cable, leaves you with a simple "box" that you plug and play, however, it will be slighly more expensive.



What a fantastic way to go. Very neat and portable.
The added expense is minimal considering these units are so cheap anyway. (got mine delivered for $17)
Do you have wired this way?.... any chance for a pic?... I'd love to see it.


----------



## Maheel

barls said:


> mate there are dodgy bastards out there. this is one i had to rewire. it was apparently done by a back yard electrician.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can anyone pick whats wrong with this wiring on a twin element urn, it was tripping the rcd. the ends of the elements are left and right of the pairs. ie two lefts and two rights.



is that power running back to the earth ?

that should not be happening, i would have thought that would never work. (and be lethal if no RCD)

i would like to know where those elements came from, i need something like that for another project (immersion type)


----------



## barls

Maheel said:


> is that power running back to the earth ?
> 
> that should not be happening, i would have thought that would never work. (and be lethal if no RCD)
> 
> i would like to know where those elements came from, i need something like that for another project (immersion type)


correct. they have wired the return circuit to earth. we were int he workshop looking at it going wow really someone thought this would work.
im sure if you search for malleys water heater elements you can find them


----------



## Nick JD

What I don't understand is how fridge manufacturers don't cough up the extra $10 (it would cost them) to put a damn STC1000 on their fricken fridges in the first place.

I'd buy a fridge for $20 extra where I could set the temperature accurate to 0.1C. Even if it's just for a reason to yell that the kids. "Johhny! Look at the temperature! It's gone up two degrees since you opened it and stared at the food. Close the bloody door."

I'm gonna sound like a trainspotter, but it's fun to watch it slowly climb up and then click on. Isn't it?

Fisher & Paykel? YOU LISTENING!


----------



## barls

my lg has one but its only controllable between 3 and 6. bloody cheap skates


----------



## sinkas

Nick JD said:


> What I don't understand is how fridge manufacturers don't cough up the extra $10 (it would cost them) to put a damn STC1000 on their fricken fridges in the first place.
> 
> I'd buy a fridge for $20 extra where I could set the temperature accurate to 0.1C. Even if it's just for a reason to yell that the kids. "Johhny! Look at the temperature! It's gone up two degrees since you opened it and stared at the food. Close the bloody door."
> 
> I'm gonna sound like a trainspotter, but it's fun to watch it slowly climb up and then click on. Isn't it?
> 
> Fisher & Paykel? YOU LISTENING!



STC1000's havent been invented in NZ yet!


----------



## ozphobia

Hi All,

I was picked this up on eBay last week, but the controller is either broken, or I am too dumb/drunk to figure it out.

Some of you are stating that the contact in the STC shouldn't be used to swith the 240V, what is the reasoning behind this?

Currently the chiller has a commercial CAREL IR33S installed on it.

It get cold nicely, and stays down, but it just keeps going, and slushy beer is hard to pour 

Any advice appreciated.

John
(Brisvegas)


----------



## michael_aussie

I think most people woh own an STC1000 DO switch 240V.
I certainly do .. with no problems.
There has been some debate about whether or not you should switch 10A, even though the unit is rated at 10A.
Personally I think you shouldn't switch a 10A load (2400W).
However, I haven't seen anyone argue against switching 240V.


----------



## Nick JD

You should never do anything unless you know at least half of what you are doing. 

Like the surgeon who passed with 51% and is now leaning over you with a scalpal. 

Or that guy who designed the brake system for your car.


----------



## syd_03

barls said:


> you also left out engineers and chemists.




Nothing wrong with engineers, chemists on the other hand....


----------



## Yob

:wub: converted.. ooh I loves it!!




bits and pieces ready for assembly


assembled and fitted.. tight as a nuns ....


wired up and ready to test... damn I was excited.. and slightly nervous


Plugged in and working. Joy ensues.

the one thing that was a PITA for me was I had to remove the plugs and wire them first as acces to the screws (for the earth) was limited, other than that it went like a dream.. followed the wire diagram from this Link and was a piece of piss.. I did send the link to my old man (sparkie) to look it over before I wired it up... Gold

probably will get myself a few more if I can still get tham at $16 to the door 

[edit] might find a jayar for my next one.. this lot cost a pretty penny.. the power outlets were almost as much as the STC by themselvs.. let alone the weather proof box to fit it all in... but worth it :wub:


----------



## Amber Fluid

Nice job... looks the goods :icon_drool2: 
My next one will be as Michael Aussie suggested. I like the idea of having a "stand alone" box and everything plugs into it.A male PC for power and a headphone jack for the temp probe.

On a side note, I can't believe some of the prices they are selling these things for on Ebay. h34r:


----------



## Shifter

My STC 1000 arrived on Friday, took a while but it's here. Now off to Jaycar to find a box and wire it up!


----------



## oldmacdonald

iamozziyob said:


> View attachment 44592



You could have left out the terminal block by looping your wires in one of the power point terminals. Would eliminate the potential for the terminal block to bump around inside the enclosure.


----------



## Yob

oldmacdonald said:


> You could have left out the terminal block by looping your wires in one of the power point terminals. Would eliminate the potential for the terminal block to bump around inside the enclosure.



I *could* have done that, however my father would not have been as pleased as he was (Retired Sparkie) the terminal block cant really move about much and there is no danger if it does, it's all insulated, the box is a "propper" jobby and cost a small fortune... in fact much more than the controller I put in it.. 

I also had an extremly nervous wife who was very pleased that I had done everthing to a high standard and had it checked by my old man before plugging anything into it.

and now I also have plenty of sapres for when I mount my next one in a tupperware container so I can see it all :icon_drool2: 

Cheers


----------



## Amber Fluid

iamozziyob said:


> I also had an extremly nervous wife who was very pleased that I had done everthing to a high standard and had it checked by my old man before plugging anything into it.



I gave mine to my wife and told her our daughter had pulled it out. Then told her to plug it back in for me :icon_drunk: ... she didn't come back fried so all was good.


----------



## Yob

Amber Fluid said:


> I gave mine to my wife and told her our daughter had pulled it out. Then told her to plug it back in for me :icon_drunk: ... she didn't come back fried so all was good.




she_ did_ come back though right?


----------



## Amber Fluid

iamozziyob said:


> she_ did_ come back though right?




Yeah mate, I was told that sometimes you have to accept the good with the bad unfortunately. :blink:


----------



## Brown_hound

iamozziyob said:


> :wub: converted.. ooh I loves it!!
> 
> View attachment 44590
> 
> bits and pieces ready for assembly
> View attachment 44591
> 
> assembled and fitted.. tight as a nuns ....
> View attachment 44592
> 
> wired up and ready to test... damn I was excited.. and slightly nervous
> View attachment 44593
> 
> Plugged in and working. Joy ensues.
> 
> the one thing that was a PITA for me was I had to remove the plugs and wire them first as acces to the screws (for the earth) was limited, other than that it went like a dream.. followed the wire diagram from this Link and was a piece of piss.. I did send the link to my old man (sparkie) to look it over before I wired it up... Gold
> 
> probably will get myself a few more if I can still get tham at $16 to the door
> 
> [edit] might find a jayar for my next one.. this lot cost a pretty penny.. the power outlets were almost as much as the STC by themselvs.. let alone the weather proof box to fit it all in... but worth it :wub:




Dead set uncanny Iamozziyob...

Mine's nearly identical:


----------



## Brown_hound

And:


----------



## Nick JD

I thought mine was flash.


----------



## QldKev

and mine has only been in a luch box for the past few years :huh: :huh: 

QldKev


----------



## cdbrown

I've still not got around to put a housing on the two controllers I've got on the two ferment fridges. One day I'll get to it.....


----------



## Shifter

Mine is also fixed up, can't work out how to put pics up on this site?


----------



## Amber Fluid

Shifter said:


> Mine is also fixed up, can't work out how to put pics up on this site?




msg sent


----------



## Malted

Brown_hound said:


> And:



Nice use of cable zip ties, keeps it neat and tidy. 
I would have thought that you would have used a cable gland on the power cord entering the box, or at the very least another zip tie on it on the inside...


----------



## Yob

Brown_hound said:


> And:



Very Nice and tidy, I cant work out what your earths are doing though?



QldKev said:


> and mine has only been in a luch box for the past few years :huh: :huh:



Agreed mate, these box's are overkill, next one goes into a clear tupperware container for a fraction of the price I forked out for my first case, :beerbang:


----------



## Malted

iamozziyob said:


> Very Nice and tidy, I cant work out what your earths are doing though?




Appears as though the earth from the cord runs to the top GPO and is doubled there to the bottom GPO. No terminal block needed.

Edit: As per Oldmacdonald's suggestion to you.


----------



## oldmacdonald

Malted said:


> Appears as though the earth from the cord runs to the top GPO and is doubled there to the bottom GPO. No terminal block needed.



Yeah, good example of omitting redundant parts.


----------



## Shifter

My rendition


----------



## Amber Fluid

Nice mate. Looks like a cube or two waiting in the backgound too 

BTW: your bench top is the same color as mine 




Shifter said:


> My rendition


----------



## Yob

Malted said:


> Appears as though the earth from the cord runs to the top GPO and is doubled there to the bottom GPO. No terminal block needed.
> 
> Edit: As per Oldmacdonald's suggestion to you.




I get it now..  

I plugged the heat pad in last night and came out this morning to check, had set to 20'c (0.5 variable) and was sitting on 19.7... the joy  

How did I ever manage without it


----------



## Shifter

Amber Fluid said:


> Nice mate. Looks like a cube or two waiting in the backgound too
> 
> BTW: your bench top is the same color as mine



Yep, three cubes left of Czech Pilsner to brew yet, if you want one to try it could be arranged? You could even try the Plump Yak?


----------



## pb unleaded

Nick JD said:


> What I don't understand is how fridge manufacturers don't cough up the extra $10 (it would cost them) to put a damn STC1000 on their fricken fridges in the first place.
> 
> I'd buy a fridge for $20 extra where I could set the temperature accurate to 0.1C. Even if it's just for a reason to yell that the kids. "Johhny! Look at the temperature! It's gone up two degrees since you opened it and stared at the food. Close the bloody door."
> 
> I'm gonna sound like a trainspotter, but it's fun to watch it slowly climb up and then click on. Isn't it?
> 
> Fisher & Paykel? YOU LISTENING!



I wired my controllers directly into fridges. No more untidy cords.


----------



## Brown_hound

Malted said:


> Nice use of cable zip ties, keeps it neat and tidy.
> I would have thought that you would have used a cable gland on the power cord entering the box, or at the very least another zip tie on it on the inside...




Good call... And yes, the proper way to go about it.

I got away with it as the supply cord diameter is 1 or 2mm greater than the size of the hole..

Tight as a Nun's..


----------



## Brown_hound

iamozziyob said:


> Agreed mate, these box's are overkill, next one goes into a clear tupperware container for a fraction of the price I forked out for my first case, :beerbang:



Somewhere in the order of $2 vs. $15-$20...

Much safer for the kiddies with it being screwed closed, however.


----------



## Malted

arthur said:


> I wired my controllers directly into fridges. No more untidy cords.



Yes it looks good. However, I'd be concerned about the potential for condensate to form on the wiring or in the device, even if you enclosed it from behind (in the fridge). Doesn't the info sheet that comes with them refer to humidity levels?


----------



## [email protected]

arthur said:


> I wired my controllers directly into fridges. No more untidy cords.
> 
> View attachment 44779
> 
> View attachment 44780
> View attachment 44781


Very nice! Have you wired the heating to the fridge light? The 15w globes in those old fridges put out a lot of heat.


----------



## QldKev

arthur said:


> I wired my controllers directly into fridges. No more untidy cords.
> 
> << pics removed >>




I've been wanting to do this for a long time, but have been worried about the moisture level in a fridge. How long have these been mounted; and have you had any issues with the moisture?

Also would the heat these things produce cause the fridge to work much harder?

QldKev


----------



## QldKev

Paxxy said:


> Very nice! Have you wired the heating to the fridge light? The 15w globes in those old fridges put out a lot of heat.




Thats a good idea, up here I can hold 18c in winter but I like to take the yeast up to 20 for a day once it is fermented out to ensure the yeast cleans up. I always have trouble getting from 18 up to 20 in the peak of winter. I wonder thou of the ligh could cause it to become light struck; but I guess I ould always cover the light with something to knock it out. 

QldKev


----------



## pb unleaded

QldKev said:


> I've been wanting to do this for a long time, but have been worried about the moisture level in a fridge. How long have these been mounted; and have you had any issues with the moisture?
> Also would the heat these things produce cause the fridge to work much harder?
> QldKev



The fridge on the left is the fermenting fridge which has a power point inside for heating if needed. The keg fridge (the rusty one) is wired for cooling only. I removed the original thermostat and set the cooling temp on the controller. There is no issue with the moisture as yet, its been couple of weeks now. This fridge is well past its prime and the controller was cheap too, so I am not overly concerned if either blows.


----------



## [email protected]

Qldkev,

Yeah you could wrap the globe in tinfoil. Wont trap the heat or catch fire but blocks the light nicely. Also u can get ceramic globes that only make heat but I'd say you'd struggle to find one that fits a fridge socket. Mind u don't forget to disable the off button when the door closes. I can see some1 spending hours trying to figure out why it wasn't heating when it was on while they were watching. However would like to get an electricians take on it, I may be talking out my ass and displaying my electrical ignorance but I don't know if the current to the bulb is transformed or not and hooking it straight to the 240 v might be bad.


----------



## The Giant

The sparkys at work werent to happy with my lunch box jobby and they dropped it and it broke hahah

So they did this up for me


----------



## The Giant

and another


----------



## stuchambers

that thing looks bomb proof


----------



## kjparker

The Giant said:


> and another


do they want to drop mine?


----------



## Malted

The Giant said:


> The sparkys at work werent to happy with my lunch box jobby and they dropped it and it broke hahah
> 
> So they did this up for me




Overkill? Nope, slaughtered!


----------



## Pourmeanother

Hey 

Just wondering where you place the temp probe ? Can understand if it was placed loose in the cooling part but if it was left hanging loose on the heat side of things and you where using a heat pad or belt , wouldnt it cook the fermenter until the air in the fridge was the correct temp ?

Or do you attatch to the fermenter with tape or the like ? :icon_drunk: 

Thanks


----------



## pimpsqueak

pourmeanother said:


> Or do you attatch to the fermenter with tape or the like ? :icon_drunk:
> 
> Thanks



Yup. Insulate it from the air temp with a bit of polystyrene or similar.


----------



## Pourmeanother

And where is the polystyrene placed ?


----------



## stuchambers

I have my temperature probe in a 3L bottle of water that lives in the fridge the idea is that this vessel will be a better indication of the wort temp.
I have the temp set at 17*C as the fermentation process itself creates some heat and will then be in the 18-20 range.

Cheers Stu


----------



## Brown_hound

The Giant said:


> and another



LMFAO...

Why not add another couple of phases? By 50A?

Nice one bro!


----------



## jakub76

pourmeanother said:


> And where is the polystyrene placed ?



Probe right up against the fermenter about half way up the liquid level. Insulator (polystyrene, bubble wrap, cardboard) placed on outside of probe and an ocky strap holding it all in place. Works a treat!

I also tried having the probe in a smaller vessel of liquid but found it wasn't effective in getting the wort down to pitching temps quickly. I'd rather be measuring the actual wort...just my 2c


----------



## jakub76

The Giant said:


> and another


That's one impressive nugget but where's the heating circuit? I'd ask them to swap that switch out for another plug for heating.


----------



## Yob

jakub76 said:


> Probe right up against the fermenter about half way up the liquid level. Insulator (polystyrene, bubble wrap, cardboard) placed on outside of probe and an ocky strap holding it all in place. Works a treat!
> 
> I also tried having the probe in a smaller vessel of liquid but found it wasn't effective in getting the wort down to pitching temps quickly. I'd rather be measuring the actual wort...just my 2c




blutak as per a photo I saw of Pennywises.. lovely


----------



## drsmurto

What would happen if i decided that the heating side of my ferment fridge using this controller is a tad slow.....

So to fix this instead of directly plugging my heatpad into the controller i add a double adaptor and plugged in 2 heatpads.

Note - i haven't done this but was wondering if it would work.


----------



## michael_aussie

DrSmurto said:


> What would happen if i decided that the heating side of my ferment fridge using this controller is a tad slow.....
> 
> So to fix this instead of directly plugging my heatpad into the controller i add a double adaptor and plugged in 2 heatpads.
> 
> Note - i haven't done this but was wondering if it would work.


The contacts of the STC1000 are rated to 10A, so in theory, as long as the combined current draw of your two heat pads (add current of #1 and current of #2) you should be OK. 

However, I'd only do this if the heating wasn't getting to temperature at all.

If it takes a long time to climb the 0.5 degree or whatever you have your dead band setting (F2), but it gets there I wouldn't worry. In fact the slower you approach your set point, the less you will overshoot, and therefore the more accurate your temperature control will be.


----------



## QldKev

As michael_aussie said, the slower you bring it up to temp the more stable it will be. But if over night with 1 heating pad if it still looses heat, then yes 2 will be ok. Most pads are rated at either 30w or 50w, the stc1000 are 10A at 240v = 2400w; so you could run a power board and have many heating pads. You will just need to check the exact capacity of your heating pad.


----------



## The Giant

jakub76 said:


> That's one impressive nugget but where's the heating circuit? I'd ask them to swap that switch out for another plug for heating.



I live in Brisbane so no need for a heating circuit. In my house in the middle of winter it wont get colder than 15 degrees. Day time temps are around 20-22. So come winter it will just live in the fridge or man cave and will be perfect brew temp. 

Summers a bitch. I know how to cause heat waves in Brisbane now! Just put down a brew! Bought a 2nd fermenter cause it was a bit cooler last week. Put it down Sunday and BAM heat wave!, 35 monday, 33 tuesday, 33 wednesday and 31 today. Awesome


----------



## Nick JD

DrSmurto said:


> What would happen if i decided that the heating side of my ferment fridge using this controller is a tad slow.....
> 
> So to fix this instead of directly plugging my heatpad into the controller i add a double adaptor and plugged in 2 heatpads.
> 
> Note - i haven't done this but was wondering if it would work.



It was 31C in my laundry yesterday - what is this "heating" you speak of?


----------



## drsmurto

Nick JD said:


> It was 31C in my laundry yesterday - what is this "heating" you speak of?




We didn't have a summer here, it went straight from spring to autumn. <_< 

Very tempted to get the fire going and it's only March :huh: 

Will check the ratings of the 2 heatpads before attempting this. It eventually got to 20C in the ferment fridge 48h after putting 60L of chardonnay juice at ~12C in it. Night time temp was ~12C so it was battling mother nature. The fridge with only 30L of juice got there in 24h and funnily enough was the first to start fermenting.


----------



## Rotgut

Nick JD said:


> It was 31C in my laundry yesterday - what is this "heating" you speak of?



Maybe Ross should consider adding 20l cubes of 'hot air' to his store for us unfortunate southerners!


----------



## QldKev

DrSmurto said:


> We didn't have a summer here, it went straight from spring to autumn. <_<
> 
> Very tempted to get the fire going and it's only March :huh:
> 
> Will check the ratings of the 2 heatpads before attempting this. It eventually got to 20C in the ferment fridge 48h after putting 60L of chardonnay juice at ~12C in it. Night time temp was ~12C so it was battling mother nature. The fridge with only 30L of juice got there in 24h and funnily enough was the first to start fermenting.




Far out, Australia is such a big place I think we all forget when chatting on this forum the different conditions we have. It has just dropped in temp last couple of days (it's been fairly hot), but up here todays weather has cooled, it was max 31C | min 21C (and about 80% humidity) makes you think about the different requirements for heating and cooling. On the back patio of my place, my fermenting fridge can hold a ferment at 18C in the peak of winter. (with no heating)

QldKev


----------



## Will88

Ordered mine today for $23. Just gotta make sure the fridge I have lined up is legit and I'll be good to go


----------



## drsmurto

QldKev said:


> Far out, Australia is such a big place I think we all forget when chatting on this forum the different conditions we have. It has just dropped in temp last couple of days (it's been fairly hot), but up here todays weather has cooled, it was max 31C | min 21C (and about 80% humidity) makes you think about the different requirements for heating and cooling. On the back patio of my place, my fermenting fridge can hold a ferment at 18C in the peak of winter. (with no heating)
> 
> QldKev



I can brew lagers in winter with no temp control in my shed. 9C all the way. 

In fact, i switch off my keg fridge for 4-5 months each year and it stays around 8-9C.


----------



## Phoney

Amber Fluid said:


> Not too bad for a flacid robo-octopus if I must say so myself :beerbang:



I just paid $37.50 at John R Turk for a Clipsal flush mount like this. Last time I bought a couple for my tempmate from they were only $17 each! :angry:

Terrible customer service too, I think unless you're dressed in overalls and spending a couple of grand on gear they don't want to know you. I feel like writing a letter of complaint.


----------



## np1962

phoneyhuh said:


> I just paid $37.50 at John R Turk for a Clipsal flush mount like this. Last time I bought a couple for my tempmate from they were only $17 each! :angry:
> 
> Terrible customer service too, I think unless you're dressed in overalls and spending a couple of grand on gear they don't want to know you. I feel like writing a letter of complaint.


Under $10 each at Jaycar.


----------



## Phoney

I asked for them at jaycar and they said they dont have them.


----------



## gap

phoneyhuh said:


> I asked for them at jaycar and they said they dont have them.



Jaycar Catalogue Number PS 4094 
Mains Panel Socket $7.95


Regards

Graeme


----------



## pimpsqueak

phoneyhuh said:


> I asked for them at jaycar and they said they dont have them.



They lied.


----------



## kjparker

pimpsqueak said:


> They lied.


They may have meant that they didnt have any stock.

Jaycar in Sydney CBD (York St) only got their batch in today. Had been out of stock for a week....


----------



## gjn200

phoneyhuh said:


> I just paid $37.50 at John R Turk for a Clipsal flush mount like this. Last time I bought a couple for my tempmate from they were only $17 each! :angry:



Fek! Mine were $6.65 from Altronics. Socket


----------



## gjn200

DrSmurto said:


> We didn't have a summer here, it went straight from spring to autumn. <_<
> 
> Very tempted to get the fire going and it's only March  :huh:
> 
> Will check the ratings of the 2 heatpads before attempting this. It eventually got to 20C in the ferment fridge 48h after putting 60L of chardonnay juice at ~12C in it. Night time temp was ~12C so it was battling mother nature. The fridge with only 30L of juice got there in 24h and funnily enough was the first to start fermenting.



Can't agree more It's cold (and I'm a Pom!). Just doing my fridge, hmmm will the one pad be enough with it in the garage?


----------



## Yob

gjn200 said:


> Can't agree more It's cold (and I'm a Pom!). Just doing my fridge, hmmm will the one pad be enough with it in the garage?




I dont even have a garage or shed (60 days and I freekin will :wub: ) and the fridge I use is currently outside under a pub/cafe type umbrella.. plenty good either way, probably uses more power than it otherwise would/will though I should think..


----------



## Pourmeanother

Received my STC-1000 This week after a fairly long wait .

Trip to Jaycar thismorning , Jiffy box , rubber grommets didnt have those flush mount sockets that look really good and it had just ticked over 12.00 pm damm middys closed .

Bunnings for a couple of small neat power points instead of the sockets . hours drive back home and into the build . 4.00 pm pluged in and working just fine.

Controller $ 23.90 
2 x Small p/points $ 15.60 
Jiffy Box $ 6.95
Grommets $ 3.95
Old Power Cable $ 0.00

Total $ 50.40

Could not go wrong with these units


----------



## michael_aussie

gjn200 said:


> Fek! Mine were $6.65 from Altronics. Socket


wow.. that panel cut out would be a PITA to cut into a jiffy box..


----------



## gjn200

michael_aussie said:


> wow.. that panel cut out with be a PITA to cut into a jiffy box..


 Nah, dead easy, does'nt need to be that accurate, I cocked up a bit (zoom in) but it's good enogh. And I used an instument Case which is easy to cut.

I have'nt done the front yet (waiting for controller) but will be using these switches in red and blue for the sockets which will also illuminate when they are in use.


----------



## Phoney

gap said:


> Jaycar Catalogue Number PS 4094
> Mains Panel Socket $7.95
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Graeme



Thanks mate!

Picked one up today, and got a refund from the rip off place


----------



## 6tri6ple6

Just wondering what everyone has set their temperature difference. I set mine to -1.5 degrees. I have stuck to probe to the outside of the fermenter. When i set it to 20, my old stick on thermometer says approx. 22. Which one would be closer? Maybe i should try and recalibrate it again?


----------



## michael_aussie

6tri6ple6 said:


> Just wondering what everyone has set their temperature difference. I set mine to -1.5 degrees. I have stuck to probe to the outside of the fermenter. When i set it to 20, my old stick on thermometer says approx. 22. Which one would be closer? Maybe i should try and recalibrate it again?


I have mine set to the minimum differential. == whatever that is??
I purchased 4 and benched tested them all against a known accurate thermometer and had no more than 0.3 degrees variation with no offset so I let them all at the factory setting.
You should check them against something else .. but not the stick on temperature indicator... it's only a guide.


----------



## Mister Wilson

Anyone recommend an ebayer to get me one of these bad boys?

Prefer not to have to wait 3 weeks for something to get here!

Cheers


----------



## QldKev

MisterWilson said:


> Anyone recommend an ebayer to get me one of these bad boys?
> 
> Prefer not to have to wait 3 weeks for something to get here!
> 
> Cheers




If you don't want to wait, why not get one from one of the sponsors.

QldKev


----------



## Amber Fluid

6tri6ple6 said:


> Just wondering what everyone has set their temperature difference. I set mine to -1.5 degrees. I have stuck to probe to the outside of the fermenter. When i set it to 20, my old stick on thermometer says approx. 22. Which one would be closer? Maybe i should try and recalibrate it again?




It will also depend what you have covering the probe. I have styrofoam then bubble wrap and a piece of cardboard shielding it from the inside fridge temp.

I have set my difference to .5 which I think was also factory settings. Can't remember now as I played around a bit with it. If you have yours set at 1.5 and the temp at 20 then maybe it was in a cooling cycle bringing the temp down when you read it? i.e. your wort may have been at 21.5 and fridge was on. As mentioned the stick on ones are only a guide and if this was the situation then .5 difference really isn't much at all.


----------



## Mister Wilson

QldKev said:


> If you don't want to wait, why not get one from one of the sponsors.
> 
> QldKev



The one from G&G is $155 from the looks of the website ... not in that much of a hurry!

Don't get me wrong I don't need it NOW just prefer not to have to wait ages like some of the previous posts.

So any recommendations on good sellers?


----------



## QldKev

MisterWilson said:


> The one from G&G is $155 from the looks of the website ... not in that much of a hurry!
> 
> Don't get me wrong I don't need it NOW just prefer not to have to wait ages like some of the previous posts.
> 
> So any recommendations on good sellers?



If you don't need one that switch between heating and cooling automatically
http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=718 

If you do need a automatic one
http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=2592


----------



## kjparker

MisterWilson said:


> The one from G&G is $155 from the looks of the website ... not in that much of a hurry!
> 
> Don't get me wrong I don't need it NOW just prefer not to have to wait ages like some of the previous posts.
> 
> So any recommendations on good sellers?




You can have cheap, or you can have fast, pick one! 

Dealing with ebay means you quite often get them cheap, but you have to wait!


----------



## Will88

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item2c5afd49d6

This guy took about 1.5-2 weeks to get it to me. I thought that was fairly reasonable from Hong Kong.


----------



## Nevalicious

Will88 said:


> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item2c5afd49d6
> 
> This guy took about 1.5-2 weeks to get it to me. I thought that was fairly reasonable from Hong Kong.



Or even cheaper!!!

Same thing, I've a few, they work a treat... Recycled link :icon_cheers: 

Nev


----------



## np1962

Two of these lobbed on my doorstep last week when I was away.
Looking to build them in to my Keezer and ferment fridge, may need a little advice sometime Nev.
Nige


----------



## [email protected]

http://myworld.ebay.com.au/uni_mart/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

I got mine from this guy, took just over a week.


----------



## Nevalicious

NigeP62 said:


> Two of these lobbed on my doorstep last week when I was away.
> Looking to build them in to my Keezer and ferment fridge, may need a little advice sometime Nev.
> Nige



Anytime mate. Bring em round and we'll fit em up for you. Easy. 

:icon_offtopic: Shortly after you read this, I'm gonna pop over and stick that 12vdc fan for your keezer in your letterbox actually... Leaving the Lyell Mac now!

Nev


----------



## Mister Wilson

Nevalicious said:


> Or even cheaper!!!
> 
> Same thing, I've a few, they work a treat... Recycled link :icon_cheers:
> 
> Nev




Cheers Nev

Ordered 2.


----------



## Xarb

Is there any good reason not to stick the probe (well sanitized of course) straight into the wort in the fermenter for total accuracy?


----------



## Jarthy

Xarb said:


> Is there any good reason not to stick the probe (well sanitized of course) straight into the wort in the fermenter for total accuracy?



won't the NTC sensor from CB do the job as well if you want a SS probe???

http://craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955


----------



## Nevalicious

Xarb said:


> Is there any good reason not to stick the probe (well sanitized of course) straight into the wort in the fermenter for total accuracy?



I would hazard a guess and say that it isn't waterproof... Some ppl I believe have got away with it, some have not... Its only peanuts ($ wise we're talking here) that's obvious, however, stuff it up and you'll be waiting longer for a replacement to arrive... I just stick mine to the side of the fermenter with tape then insulate and wrap an occy strap around. Easy. Consistent temps. 

Best not to try and reinvent the wheel :icon_cheers: 

Nev


----------



## michael_aussie

MisterWilson said:


> Anyone recommend an ebayer to get me one of these bad boys?
> 
> Prefer not to have to wait 3 weeks for something to get here!
> 
> Cheers


I used qualitylink2000 after reading good reports here.
They delivered to my door in about 6 days from SE Asia.
I was impressed..
Qualitylink2000 link selling in AUD
However.. this link is selling at $29.90.

If you are after a cheapie go here .. although I've never purchased from this seller...

bloody cheap -- less than $16.50 delivered!!!


----------



## WadoGoace

does anybody know a better xbox 360 controller than the default 360 controller 

its not really good for fighting games


----------



## beerdrinkingbob

Wado, I think you might find you posted that in the wrong forum :icon_drunk:


----------



## Silo Ted

Nevalicious said:


> I would hazard a guess and say that it isn't waterproof...



I mount with an occy strap and a wedge of foam, but I don't agree that the probe isn't waterproof. The STC1000 is specifically sold as an aquarium controller. 
Or maybe the fish collecters can advise if the trend is to mount outside of the tank, and not in the water.


----------



## Xarb

Silo Ted said:


> I mount with an occy strap and a wedge of foam, but I don't agree that the probe isn't waterproof. The STC1000 is specifically sold as an aquarium controller.
> Or maybe the fish collecters can advise if the trend is to mount outside of the tank, and not in the water.


Yes they are generally designed to be in the water which is why I was thinking of putting the probe straight into the fermenter. 

However if people are getting good results strapping the probe to the side of the fermenter I think I'll go with this, seems simpler and safer from an infection standpoint.


----------



## Will88

Constructed mine today and tested it tonight. All is in working order. The only slightly annoying issue I had is that the screws that came with the jiffy box are very soft so when I screwed the lid on it warped the screw heads. Not sure if I'll be able to remove the lid now so I guess I'm lucky it works.


----------



## Rotgut

Xarb said:


> Is there any good reason not to stick the probe (well sanitized of course) straight into the wort in the fermenter for total accuracy?



Had mine submerged in my HLT for 8 brews now and no probs. Can't see why you couldn't drop it in your fermenter after a little sanatising...


----------



## Rotgut

WadoGoace said:


> does anybody know a better xbox 360 controller than the default 360 controller
> 
> its not really good for fighting games



Who ever said you can't merge brewing with gaming! Maybe you could fit an Xbox controller to the STC1000 for a more interactive brew day!!


----------



## michael_aussie

WadoGoace said:


> does anybody know a better xbox 360 controller than the default 360 controller
> 
> its not really good for fighting games






beerdrinkingbob said:


> Wado, I think you might find you posted that in the wrong forum :icon_drunk:


I've been known to post in the wrong thread .. but can happily say I've always hit the right forum..

btw ... i have this red rash down-under, can anyone suggest what I should do to treat it?


----------



## stuchambers

I usually only get that rash after making my yeast cultures.
It develops a nice krausen by day three but then settles down, just let it run its course.

Cheers Stu


----------



## raven19

Will88 said:


> The only slightly annoying issue I had is that the screws that came with the jiffy box are very soft so when I screwed the lid on it warped the screw heads.



Same on mine too! Those little screws are a pain in the ass, the head of the metal screw is so soft. I reckon worst case you could replace them with new ones of similar size of better quality. The plastic casing should be able to handle a slightly different screw size.


----------



## kelbygreen

I have had my probe in a tallie in the keg fridge submerged in water for about 4-5 months now and still working strong so they do work submerged, For my fermenting fridges they are just put on the side insulated with styrofoam and duct taped on. I think it would be a pain to try clean and sanitise them and drop in the fermenter


----------



## ratchie

I put my probes inside 3/8 beer line with one end melted together to seal it and push the other end of the beer line through a 17mm bored bung fits in tallies and in the hole in fermenter after Iv'e drilled it larger.


----------



## Filby

I bought a controller from metapark on ebay. Even though the picture and description didnt have stc-1000 in it, the arrived unit was a 'genuine' stc-1000. Cost me $16AU landed at my door 13 days after ordering. Cant complain about that!


----------



## Mister Wilson

I just received my STC 1000's from Metapark. 

10 days from order to receiving the goods.

Couldn't recommend highly enough.


----------



## Will88

raven19 said:


> Same on mine too! Those little screws are a pain in the ass, the head of the metal screw is so soft. I reckon worst case you could replace them with new ones of similar size of better quality. The plastic casing should be able to handle a slightly different screw size.



I'll give that a go if I can get these warped screws out of the box. First attempt wasn't successful.


----------



## Nevalicious

Filby said:


> I bought a controller from metapark on ebay. Even though the picture and description didnt have stc-1000 in it, the arrived unit was a 'genuine' stc-1000. Cost me $16AU landed at my door 13 days after ordering. Cant complain about that!






MisterWilson said:


> I just received my STC 1000's from Metapark.
> 
> 10 days from order to receiving the goods.
> 
> Couldn't recommend highly enough.



I ordered 4 more of these bad boys from the same people. 6 ordered in total now. They are a great little unit... (1 of the next 4 is a spare, three are for mates I have to wire up for)

:icon_cheers:


----------



## bluejay

Sorry, the answer to this question is probably somewhere within the 15 pages of this thread, but I don'thave the time to read all that.

Just want to know if this machine does heating and cooling at the same time (like the tempmate would) or whether you can only do one at a time (like the fridgemate?)

I would like a temp mate but 75 seems kind of steep, so is this a good substitute?


----------



## pimpsqueak

bluejay said:


> Sorry, the answer to this question is probably somewhere within the 15 pages of this thread, but I don'thave the time to read all that.
> 
> Just want to know if this machine does heating and cooling at the same time (like the tempmate would) or whether you can only do one at a time (like the fridgemate?)
> 
> I would like a temp mate but 75 seems kind of steep, so is this a good substitute?


Yes, it has 2 circuits. One for heating and one for cooling. It switches between the two.


----------



## WarmBeer

bluejay said:


> Sorry, the answer to this question is probably somewhere within the 15 pages of this thread, but I don'thave the time to read all that.


No need to read all 15 pages, but taking the time just to read the 1st page would have answered your question.

Best post is on page 2, post #27. It contains a more accurate wiring diagram.


----------



## bluejay

WarmBeer said:


> No need to read all 15 pages, but taking the time just to read the 1st page would have answered your question.
> 
> Best post is on page 2, post #27. It contains a more accurate wiring diagram.



Yeah I did read the first page, but I just wanted to make sure it heats and cools at the same time (or rather automatically switches between the two)

Any major reason to avoid this in favour of the tempmate? Build quality still OK?


----------



## Yob

bluejay said:


> Any major reason to avoid this in favour of the tempmate? Build quality still OK?




at $17 delivered I doubt you will find better mate, in all those 15 pages Ive not read a bad thing on them. Ive just bought my second (dont know how I did without it) and feel I got ripped for paying $24 delivered :blink: ... I should have bought more.. matter of fact... I has got me some ebaying to do.. h34r:


----------



## bluejay

iamozziyob said:


> at $17 delivered I doubt you will find better mate, in all those 15 pages Ive not read a bad thing on them. Ive just bought my second (dont know how I did without it) and feel I got ripped for paying $24 delivered :blink: ... I should have bought more.. matter of fact... I has got me some ebaying to do.. h34r:



Yeah no doubt about the great price. If anything it's too good, that's why I'm skeptical about the quality. But it seems the AHB community has given it the thumbs up, so that's all I need.

Cheapest I see it on ebay though is 24 USD


----------



## Yob

1 page back... <_< ... anywhoo post 262 has the best link...


----------



## bluejay

iamozziyob said:


> 1 page back... <_< ... anywhoo post 262 has the best link...



Cheers!!


----------



## poompy

can anyone tell me if this controller would work with the stainless ntc sensor at craftbrewer?
http://craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955

Or a cheaper option would be to stick the sensor into some copper tubing filled with thermal paste and hang it over the edge of my HLT??

Just looking to make getting the striker water to temp a little more automate. I already have the element on a timer so that it comes on around 1.5-2hrs before i need to mash in.

Cheers
Ben


----------



## Jarthy

don't worry about anything fancy with the temp probe. i just use the standard one that comes with it hanging freely in the water of my HLT. make sure you attached it to the rim with a peg, or it'll bubble the probe out of it and will keep heating to boiling... its a bit scary when it happens to a BOD!


----------



## argon

poompy said:


> can anyone tell me if this controller would work with the stainless ntc sensor at craftbrewer?
> http://craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955
> 
> Or a cheaper option would be to stick the sensor into some copper tubing filled with thermal paste and hang it over the edge of my HLT??
> 
> Just looking to make getting the striker water to temp a little more automate. I already have the element on a timer so that it comes on around 1.5-2hrs before i need to mash in.
> 
> Cheers
> Ben



I have one of these  installed in the HLT with the probe inside it. Works a charm and temps are accurate.


----------



## poompy

too easy, thanks guys.


----------



## pimpsqueak

argon said:


> I have one of these  installed in the HLT with the probe inside it. Works a charm and temps are accurate.



Do you use any thermal compound of any sort, or just whack the probe in there?


----------



## argon

pimpsqueak said:


> Do you use any thermal compound of any sort, or just whack the probe in there?


nah i just stick it in there with a bit of tape over the hole to keep the probe in there. Seems pretty accurate without any compound.


----------



## pimpsqueak

argon said:


> nah i just stick it in there with a bit of tape over the hole to keep the probe in there. Seems pretty accurate without any compound.


Cool. That's what I was hoping to hear.


----------



## Spork

Thanks to all the very helpful wiring diagrams I was able to set mine up, without electrocuting myself or burning the house down. 
Have done a bit of 12v wiring before, but never any 240. I read a couple of threads and saved 3 different diagrams, and the penny dropped!  
Active splits 3 ways, to 1, 6 and 8, then the heating and cooling side actives connect to 5 and 7 respectivley.
Neutral splits 3 ways, to 2, and to the two neutrals in the output side.
Earth splits to the 2 output earths.
Almost forgot to add the temperature probe in my excitement... :unsure: 
Hooked it all up running through a "safety switch", just for ... safety?
Tested with a radio and a glass of ice water.
All seems to be working fine.
I didn't use terminal blocks, I used nitto tape and heat shrink, and the whole thing is housed in a placcy box designed to house this sort of stuff and secured with screws. Cords are secured inside the box with zip-ties.

All up, cost me $26 for the controller (yes, I know they can be had much cheaper), IIRC about $7 for the boc, and $5.96 for 2 x 2m extension cords. $40 total!
Plan on doing at least one more. Will prob. use terminal blocks next time for neatness. 
Better beer, here I come! :icon_cheers:


----------



## adryargument

Spork said:


> Thanks to all the very helpful wiring diagrams I was able to set mine up, without electrocuting myself or burning the house down.
> Have done a bit of 12v wiring before, but never any 240. I read a couple of threads and saved 3 different diagrams, and the penny dropped!
> Active splits 3 ways, to 1, 6 and 8, then the heating and cooling side actives connect to 5 and 7 respectivley.
> Neutral splits 3 ways, to 2, and to the two neutrals in the output side.
> Earth splits to the 2 output earths.
> Almost forgot to add the temperature probe in my excitement... :unsure:
> Hooked it all up running through a "safety switch", just for ... safety?
> Tested with a radio and a glass of ice water.
> All seems to be working fine.
> I didn't use terminal blocks, I used nitto tape and heat shrink, and the whole thing is housed in a placcy box designed to house this sort of stuff and secured with screws. Cords are secured inside the box with zip-ties.
> 
> All up, cost me $26 for the controller (yes, I know they can be had much cheaper), IIRC about $7 for the boc, and $5.96 for 2 x 2m extension cords. $40 total!
> Plan on doing at least one more. Will prob. use terminal blocks next time for neatness.
> Better beer, here I come! :icon_cheers:



Nearly exactly what i have done, however i highly recommend soldering instead of tape...!


----------



## ampy

adryargument said:


> Nearly exactly what i have done, however i highly recommend soldering instead of tape...!



Or blue point connectors





Tape and heat shrink definitely not recommended!


----------



## QldKev

Spork said:


> Thanks to all the very helpful wiring diagrams I was able to set mine up, without electrocuting myself or burning the house down.
> Have done a bit of 12v wiring before, but never any 240. I read a couple of threads and saved 3 different diagrams, and the penny dropped!
> Active splits 3 ways, to 1, 6 and 8, then the heating and cooling side actives connect to 5 and 7 respectivley.
> Neutral splits 3 ways, to 2, and to the two neutrals in the output side.
> Earth splits to the 2 output earths.
> Almost forgot to add the temperature probe in my excitement...
> Hooked it all up running through a "safety switch", just for ... safety?
> Tested with a radio and a glass of ice water.
> All seems to be working fine.
> *I didn't use terminal blocks, I used nitto tape and heat shrink, and the whole thing is housed in a placcy box designed to house this sort of stuff and secured with screws. Cords are secured inside the box with zip-ties.*
> 
> All up, cost me $26 for the controller (yes, I know they can be had much cheaper), IIRC about $7 for the boc, and $5.96 for 2 x 2m extension cords. $40 total!
> Plan on doing at least one more. Will prob. use terminal blocks next time for neatness.
> Better beer, here I come!




Now, this is why they made it illegal to do wiring yourself in Australia :blink: 


QldKev


----------



## Spork

ampy and QldKev - Would you suggest I redo with terminal blocks instead of the tape and heat shrink? 
What is likley to happen if I leave it "as is"? 
The Blue point connectors 2 posts up - will they fit one wire in and 3 out, or would I need to "piggyback" 2 of them to split one wire 3 ways?


----------



## barls

the chance of the tape failing is fairly high which may end up possibly starting a fire.
do it right, do it once.


----------



## Spork

OK, guess I'll be redoing it when my blocks arrive from ebay. At least I know I have it wired properly, even if the joining technique is not ideal.
In my defense, it is outside, and it will always be running through a safety switch.
I did such a tidy job with the shrink wrap too... 

@ barls - you say the chance of tape failing is high. Failing to what? Stick? ie, come undone - shrink wrap is over the tape, I don't think it will auto-unravel. Fail to insulate perhaps? I'm not trying to be a smart-arse, I just like to understand things fully.

As I stated earlier, I haven't worked with 240 before, but I have done some 12v wiring, including quite a bit on my boat. The marine environment is much harsher than my back patio, and I never had any connection failure or insulation failure with the tape and shrink wrap method then.


----------



## spog

try those crimp on joiners/connectors that fill the connector with gel to seal the join when sqeezed together with pliers.
got no idea what the trade name is,try bunnings.....cheers......spog......


----------



## ampy

Spork said:


> ampy and QldKev - Would you suggest I redo with terminal blocks instead of the tape and heat shrink?
> What is likley to happen if I leave it "as is"?
> The Blue point connectors 2 posts up - will they fit one wire in and 3 out, or would I need to "piggyback" 2 of them to split one wire 3 ways?


Yes definitely re connect your wires, the blue point connectors will fit all your wire just strip the sheath back twist wire together with pliers put the blue point on and tighten the screw. Happy to send you some if ya pm me!



> OK, guess I'll be redoing it when my blocks arrive from ebay. At least I know I have it wired properly, even if the joining technique is not ideal.
> In my defense, it is outside, and it will always be running through a safety switch.
> I did such a tidy job with the shrink wrap too... sad.gif
> 
> @ barls - you say the chance of tape failing is high. Failing to what? Stick? ie, come undone - shrink wrap is over the tape, I don't think it will auto-unravel. Fail to insulate perhaps? I'm not trying to be a smart-arse, I just like to understand things fully.
> 
> As I stated earlier, I haven't worked with 240 before, but I have done some 12v wiring, including quite a bit on my boat. The marine environment is much harsher than my back patio, and I never had any connection failure or insulation failure with the tape and shrink wrap method then.



For a start you shouldn't be "playing around" with 240V there is a reason why sparkies do a 4 year apprenticeship.
Tape will deteriorate after time when exposed to heat, cold and movement. and it will loose its "stick" heat shrink will do a pretty good job at holding the tape on, but its not the right way to go about it. Do yourself a favour and use one of the connection methods above.

Cheers
Ampy


----------



## barls

Spork said:


> OK, guess I'll be redoing it when my blocks arrive from ebay. At least I know I have it wired properly, even if the joining technique is not ideal.
> In my defense, it is outside, and it will always be running through a safety switch.
> I did such a tidy job with the shrink wrap too...
> 
> @ barls - you say the chance of tape failing is high. Failing to what? Stick? ie, come undone - shrink wrap is over the tape, I don't think it will auto-unravel. Fail to insulate perhaps? I'm not trying to be a smart-arse, I just like to understand things fully.
> 
> As I stated earlier, I haven't worked with 240 before, but I have done some 12v wiring, including quite a bit on my boat. The marine environment is much harsher than my back patio, and I never had any connection failure or insulation failure with the tape and shrink wrap method then.


the glue fails over time and depending on conditions, this leads to the wire be coming exposed and leading to shorting.
i previously worked in the marine environ for the last 11 years, and i can tell you if i found what you did by one of those that worked with me id kick their arse so hard they would be the first person on the moon with out a rocket as it not only endangers people but also the equipment its done on. ive seen people zapped on other fittings ie guard rails because someone has taken a short cut on an upper deck power fitting, not pretty.
sure as a quick fix, ie to get something running while under pressure sure but not lasting more than 2 hours, for a permanent fitting no way in hell would i do it

if you cant solder or terminate correctly and do the job permanently, dont do it.
hell the big green shed has crimpers and crimps kits starting at about 30 bucks.

Seriously as others have said, there are standards for a reason. ive done my trade and touch wood never been zapped, id like to keep it that way.


----------



## QldKev

As all ready mentioned the glue will loose its stick over time. The other issue I have read is the twisting of wires to join then may not be a perfect conductor, hence the join will heat up resulting in the taps glue failing quicker and also the potential to melt through the insulation and cause a short/fire.

I'm not an electrician, but I was always told never twist together 240v wires. I would use either these
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD 

or even better
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

and where the cords go through the enclosure use these 
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD


You can get ones that can handle higher than 10amp if there is a need.

QldKev


----------



## Nevalicious

barls said:


> ive done my trade and touch wood never been zapped, id like to keep it that way.



Really, I've done my trade and get zapped 3 to 4 times a year... At best... Keeps you on your toes :icon_cheers: 

The equipment I work on contains alot of live parts and alot of the older stuff is 415v control wiring with live armatures on relays etc :blink: 

Most of the equipment must be worked on live in order to diagnose problems and the like. 

At OP, Blue Points FTW!

Nev


----------



## barls

worked on plenty of live gear just dont like pain and am very careful. actually have been called a wuss as ive refused to put my hand in one console live. the person that called me it put his hand in and got zapped. whose the smart one?


----------



## gjn200

Nevalicious said:


> Most of the equipment must be worked on live in order to diagnose problems and the like.
> 
> 
> 
> Nev




OoooH! Pretty sure that's against the law. All faults can be found with a multi meter and a megger. Working on live equipment, out of the ark that one.


----------



## NickB

Yep, I've refused to work on live gear before. It's a sackable offence in the company I work for (doesn't stop some of the more 'experienced' sparkies doing it though -_- 

Cheers


----------



## ampy

gjn200 said:


> OoooH! Pretty sure that's against the law. All faults can be found with a multi meter and a megger. Working on live equipment, out of the ark that one.


 :icon_offtopic: 
Its not against the law to work live, well not in Victoria anyway.

Extract from Code of Practice for Safe Electrical Work

WORKING ON LIVE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
General - Rescheduling the work to a time when power can be isolated must be considered first.
Working on live electrical equipment must only be considered as a last resort and when an
adequate risk process has been undertaken. Suitable safety apparel must be worn and only tools
and equipment appropriate for the work to be carried out must be used.
(and it goes on)


In some Industries, like Power distribution and Industrial you have no choice but to work live.

Link for Code of Practice for Safe Electrical Work if anyone is interested.

http://www.esv.vic.gov.au/Portals/0/Electr...ctricalWork.pdf


----------



## Nevalicious

ampy said:


> and Industrial you have no choice but to work live



Bingo! I work on elevators for a living. Most faults will only ever be diagnosed whilst the elevator is running....

Anywho, caution is always taken... **** dying for the company!

Massive :icon_offtopic:



gjn200 said:


> All faults can be found with a multi meter and a megger.



If only this were true...


----------



## Yob

back to $20 free P&H

LINK

jumpin in for a spare


----------



## Amber Fluid

Go HERE Yob, they are still around $16.

Cheers


----------



## C-MOR

I have just bought one of theses. I intend to wire it up my self. (pretty sure i haven't read anywhere on this post that it is illegal to wire your own 240 V).

My previous method of wiring things up (car stereos) is 100% vinyl tape. usually the yellow and green stripe stuff because thats what electricians use so if you use that it means your like an electrician. 

Reading the recent spate of posts condemning the 'tape and hope' method, i wonder if anyone has a photo of what they think a well wired stc-1000 looks like.


----------



## NickB

Try this as an example link

Bear in mind this is for a Fridgemate, but I'd use a terminal block or Bluepoint (BP) connectors to join cable. Remember, if you don't feel comfortable or don't know what you're doing, get a licensed electrician to wire it for you.

Cheers


----------



## C-MOR

Thanks Nick that exactly what I was hoping for.
To show my gratitude i'm going to send you a bottle of my beer.


----------



## NickB

You are a gentleman and a scholar....or something


----------



## Wolfy

C-MOR said:


> Reading the recent spate of posts condemning the 'tape and hope' method, i wonder if anyone has a photo of what they think a well wired stc-1000 looks like.


There are many pictures and examples here on the forums, including in this thread, mine might be housed in a lunch-box, but inside it uses the same terminals as linked in the picture above, if you browse this and the other theads here, you will find many good examples.


----------



## gambit

Have attached a diagram of how I wired mine up. I am a bit of a sceptic when it comes to the ratings of the micro relays they use in the STC1000 - hence the inclusion of extrenal meatier relays. I also like to hear the solid click when it kicks in or out. 

View attachment Fridge_Controller.pdf


----------



## michael_aussie

C-MOR said:


> Thanks Nick that exactly what I was hoping for.
> To show my gratitude i'm going to send you a bottle of my beer.


if i post something for you will you send me some too???


----------



## cat007

Just to clarify, does this switch BOTH the heating side and the cooling side at the same time? 
Or does it work just like the TempMate and will switch one or the other depending on if it needs to heat or cool to get to the desired temp?


----------



## Yob

Hunt said:


> Just to clarify, does this switch BOTH the heating side and the cooling side at the same time?
> Or does it work just like the TempMate and will switch one or the other depending on if it needs to heat or cool to get to the desired temp?




its one or the other mate...

F1= Desired temp,
F2= +/- 0.3 temp variation, less than this it will cycle too often, more than this (IMO) is too much temp fluctuation
F3= 3 minutes. (Fridge compressor delay)
F4= 0, cant remember what this one was for but I dont need it.

Yob


----------



## vykuza

F4 is adjustment should the thermo be inaccurate/out


----------



## cat007

iamozziyob said:


> its one or the other mate...
> 
> F1= Desired temp,
> F2= +/- 0.3 temp variation, less than this it will cycle too often, more than this (IMO) is too much temp fluctuation
> F3= 3 minutes. (Fridge compressor delay)
> F4= 0, cant remember what this one was for but I dont need it.
> 
> Yob




So it will heat it when it's too cold, and cool when too warm? Or it will heat when too cold and turn off the heat when the temp's right?

I'm a bit confused as I thought it would work just like the temp mate where it would cool when too warm and then heat when too cold....


----------



## Yob

Nick R said:


> F4 is adjustment should the thermo be inaccurate/out




ahh, handy... I still dont think I need it though as I also have a little digital thermometer to read the ambient in the fridges, I notice that ambient may be up to about 3-4'c away from what the STC reads on the fermenters..

hmmm I havnt as yet put both sensors on the same fermenter to see that they equal the same..

toddles off to shed to do so, F4 may come in handy for me yet...

Cheers Nick 

[edit] damn.. 2'c variation... now to determine which one is out... out with the sanitised thermometer to take a manual reading in both FV's.. shit..


----------



## mje1980

Great little unit. I only use the cooling part of it. Works great for my keg fridge!


----------



## QldKev

Hunt said:


> So it will heat it when it's too cold, and cool when too warm? Or it will heat when too cold and turn off the heat when the temp's right?
> 
> I'm a bit confused as I thought it would work just like the temp mate where it would cool when too warm and then heat when too cold....



F1= Desired temp,
F2= +/- 0.3 temp variation, less than this it will cycle too often, more than this (IMO) is too much temp fluctuation


It will heat when too cold AND cool when too hot.
It is wired up to have 2 outlets, heat and cool 

Example:
set F1 to 18
set F2 to 1 
Plug in heater to heat output
Plug in fridge to fridge output. 

If temp less than 17 (18 - 1) it will turn on heater
If temp more then 19 (18 + 1) it will turn on fridge.

You don't need to have both plugged in if you don't want too.

And then you have 'happy little yeasties as munching, as munching can be. they all enjoy their sugars for breakfast lunch and tea.'

QldKev


----------



## cat007

QldKev said:


> F1= Desired temp,
> F2= +/- 0.3 temp variation, less than this it will cycle too often, more than this (IMO) is too much temp fluctuation
> 
> 
> It will heat when too cold AND cool when too hot.
> It is wired up to have 2 outlets, heat and cool
> 
> Example:
> set F1 to 18
> set F2 to 1
> Plug in heater to heat output
> Plug in fridge to fridge output.
> 
> If temp less than 17 (18 - 1) it will turn on heater
> If temp more then 19 (18 + 1) it will turn on fridge.
> 
> You don't need to have both plugged in if you don't want too.
> 
> And then you have 'happy little yeasties as munching, as munching can be. they all enjoy their sugars for breakfast lunch and tea.'
> 
> QldKev



Thank you for that. I was told different so just making sure 

I've just bought one - so will have a decent gander through the wiring diagrams before hooking it up. 
Cheers


----------



## Malted

Hunt said:


> Thank you for that. I was told different so just making sure
> 
> I've just bought one - so will have a decent gander through the wiring diagrams before hooking it up.
> Cheers




And that's the point, most people are correct (for their device). Depends on how it is wired up doesn't it. Some wired for cooling only, some for heating only and some for both. Some got someone else to wire it for them and may not be aware of what the options are?
I wired mine for both and I think that makes it a useful device.


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I

Slightly OT on the current question, but does anybody have instructions for this in English (not Engrish). I'm having difficulty with the instructions I have.


----------



## Hogan

Here you go.

Cheers, Hoges.


View attachment stc1000_operations.pdf


----------



## argon

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> Slightly OT on the current question, but does anybody have instructions for this in English (not Engrish). I'm having difficulty with the instructions I have.






Hogan said:


> Here you go.
> 
> Cheers, Hoges.
> 
> 
> View attachment 46856



or you could just be like me... ignore the instructions and just start mashing buttons until something happens.


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I

Thanks hoges,

It happen that the function of paper in PDF format I obtain at Internet anyways, however Engrish with function of paper may be with difficulty as understanded.  

Cheers,

Goomba


----------



## kieran

Guys, does it not alarm anyone that there is no earth running to any of these controllers themselves?


----------



## Nick JD

kieran said:


> Guys, does it not alarm anyone that there is no earth running to any of these controllers themselves?



Does the actual controller run at 240V? Or is it reduced?

The appliance it controls is being grounded.


----------



## Wolfy

kieran said:


> Guys, does it not alarm anyone that there is no earth running to any of these controllers themselves?


Should it? Same with all the other non-earthed appliances around the house?


----------



## kieran

Nick JD said:


> Does the actual controller run at 240V? Or is it reduced?
> 
> The appliance it controls is being grounded.



The controller probably doesnt, but it has 240V terminals controlled by 240V switching relays.. 

Wolfy: Not sure, that's why I'm wondering. I always assumed the controller itself was double insulated because it didn't have an earth, but I thought about it a while ago and didn't come to any conclusion, and seeing the wiring diagram on pg2 again reminded me. I don't know if any current leak would pass through the appliance and be grounded that way. With bare terminals though.. I guess the relays may be double insulated, but I'm just not sure. I'd be happy for a sparky to chime in. All other household non-earthed appliances are double insulated so that faults from live to conductive are basically impossible. I gather that's the case here, but I don't know for sure.


----------



## Deebo

kieran said:


> The controller probably doesnt, but it has 240V terminals controlled by 240V switching relays..
> 
> Wolfy: Not sure, that's why I'm wondering. I always assumed the controller itself was double insulated because it didn't have an earth, but I thought about it a while ago and didn't come to any conclusion, and seeing the wiring diagram on pg2 again reminded me. I don't know if any current leak would pass through the appliance and be grounded that way. With bare terminals though.. I guess the relays may be double insulated, but I'm just not sure. I'd be happy for a sparky to chime in. All other household non-earthed appliances are double insulated so that faults from live to conductive are basically impossible. I gather that's the case here, but I don't know for sure.



A bit off topic but I bought a cheap ozito rotary tool to cut some holes in my jiffy box which has no earth on the plug, though it was a bit strange seeing it has a metal body etc, though I know nearly nothing about electronics.


----------



## Amber Fluid

I am wanting to put a powerpoint to run a fan for the freezer in the same box as my temp controller. I have no worries wiring the temp controller as per the diagram below and have done so a couple of times. However, I would like to know if I am correct with the following.

Using the same wiring as the diagram below would all I have to do is "piggy back" off the wire joiners to the power plug?
It would also be nice to have a switch to turn on and off as well, so do I run the active from the plug to the switch then to the wire joiner (Blue)?... if I can't do this then I just wont run a switch.

Any advice from the people who know will be appreciated......


----------



## Amber Fluid

ok, obviously this question was too silly and obviously it can be piggy backed like I mentioned. However, I was always told that no question is too silly so considering this is 240v played around with, I just wanted to make sure.


----------



## Nevalicious

Amber Fluid said:


> ok, obviously this question was too silly and obviously it can be piggy backed like I mentioned. However, I was always told that no question is too silly so considering this is 240v played around with, I just wanted to make sure.



Ok, I'll help...

All you need to do is piggy back off the joiners or terminals like you said: Red (active), Blue or Black (neutral) and Green/Yellow (earth) and run them to the power point... Easy peasy...

If you require a switch (personally I wouldn't bother if you are in any way unsure) all you need to do is take the active wire which was going to the new socket outlet and cut it and connect one side to the switch, the other side of the switch then goes to the active terminal on the outlet. You only really need a single pole switch for this application

There are no stupid questions, just stupid answers

:icon_cheers: :icon_cheers: 

Nev


----------



## Amber Fluid

Thanks Nev. That is how I was thinking it's done but I just wanted to make sure.
:beer:


----------



## Yob

First negative feedback on this topic I think, Its not the STC 1000 it must be said, but similar item from THIS SELLER

I had reason to think that one of my controllers was out, so tinkering today when dry hopping I took a thermometer reading and checked it against the STC and was pretty much spot on, I then ran the probe from the other item (forthe other fridge) linked above to same fermenter to check the difference..

0.3 - 0.4'c variance.. it couldnt decide for a while <_< 

cannot argue for the price I'm just sayin it's totally worth calibrating them against a trusted thermometer. (For those that have this one)

I still love it though not as much as the STC  

Yob


----------



## QldKev

iamozziyob said:


> First negative feedback on this topic I think, Its not the STC 1000 it must be said, but similar item from THIS SELLER
> 
> I had reason to think that one of my controllers was out, so tinkering today when dry hopping I took a thermometer reading and checked it against the STC and was pretty much spot on, I then ran the probe from the other item (forthe other fridge) linked above to same fermenter to check the difference..
> 
> 0.3 - 0.4'c variance.. it couldnt decide for a while <_<
> 
> cannot argue for the price I'm just sayin it's totally worth calibrating them against a trusted thermometer. (For those that have this one)
> 
> I still love it though not as much as the STC
> 
> Yob




One of my STC-1000 is 3 degrees out, against my trusty alcohol filled thermometer. Thinking about it, it is the same one that had a buzzing sound when the digit 8 is displayed when I used it on Wednesday. 

QldKev


----------



## Yob

cough.. I didnt realise for ages that my F4 was set to 3'c... so I guess I was fermenting at 15 for a while there  cough..

how embarresment

[edit] F number


----------



## QldKev

iamozziyob said:


> cough.. I didnt realise for ages that my F4 was set to 3'c... so I guess I was fermenting at 15 for a while there  cough..
> 
> how embarresment
> 
> [edit] F number



lol wish mine was, but I guess then it would be 6 out as I had to set mine to -3

QldKev


----------



## rotten

Nick JD said:


> I just set up a STC1000 temperature controller and thought I'd better say how I nearly broke it setting it up.
> 
> The terminals for the cooling relay (7 and 8) in and out appeared to be like the others - wound right out so the wire can be inserted and tightened - but they were wound right _in. _Really tight. So much so that I bent the crap out of the plastic terminal block loosening them off and I'm really surprised it didn't break the connection.
> 
> Just a heads up. I straightened the terminal block and it's running fine. Not sure if others have done this too - but if you buy an extension cord and cut it you have cheap, sealed male and female plugs ready to go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This diagram is great. Thanks to whoever drew it :icon_cheers: .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Testing to see if I broke it! All good - cooling turned on and off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Total cost is under $25 (box and connector block from jaycar and extension cord from bunnings).
> 
> Questions: what does everyone set the compressor delay to? Can I leave it at the default 3 minutes?
> 
> What about the difference set value? Does setting this too small make the thing turn on and off too much?




Thanks to NickJD for posting that photo and drawing. They made it very easy to hook up my two stc-1000's. I made the same unkillable mistakes as many others it seems, until I saw that photo.

Cheers :icon_cheers:


----------



## winkle

I was going to use a STC 1000 as the temp controller on a HERMES set-up, is there a suitable substitue probe available for the rubbery one that comes with the unit?


----------



## Yob

as I now have a few spare units, I was going to experiment on one of the sensors and apply some "heat shrink" type of shielding, dunno if it will work but I dont see that ive got much to lose either

Yob


----------



## Batz

winkle said:


> I was going to use a STC 1000 as the temp controller on a HERMES set-up, is there a suitable substitue probe available for the rubbery one that comes with the unit?




This one Perry, it'll screw straight into your HERMS

http://mashmaster.com.au/p/366867/ntc-sens...e-brewmate.html

I see Ross has them as well, couple of bucks cheaper and free beer!!

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955


----------



## winkle

Batz said:


> This one Perry, it'll screw straight into your HERMS
> 
> http://mashmaster.com.au/p/366867/ntc-sens...e-brewmate.html
> 
> I see Ross has them as well, couple of bucks cheaper and free beer!!
> 
> http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955



Excellent.


----------



## Truman42

Bump...

Heres mine showing the wiring. Just waiting for my Stc 1000 to arrive in the mail. I used double BP connectors so I could fit all the wires in when joining them together.

View attachment 48752


----------



## peaky

Looking good Truman. I won't post a pick of mine........ <_<


----------



## Truman42

Why not peaky cant be that bad????

Just a question is everyone bothering with vent holes as per the post on building a housing for the fridgemate? 

Fridgemate housing

Do they produce much heat?


----------



## raven19

Truman said:


> Just a question is everyone bothering with vent holes as per the post on building a housing for the fridgemate?



I have wired a few of these up and I have found vent holes are not required. I have had them running in summer in a small shed, yep it gets warm but no issues at all thus far.

I do use little 'feet' under the jiffy box to elevate it slightly off the top of the fridge for some extra circulation.


----------



## richiev

Great thread, definitely worth reading all 19 pages so far.

I've done my own wiring diagram. Can either a sparkie or someone who has wired heaps of these up verify that I have the wiring correct....?


----------



## kelbygreen

looks totally fine to me


----------



## adryargument

raven19 said:


> I have wired a few of these up and I have found vent holes are not required. I have had them running in summer in a small shed, yep it gets warm but no issues at all thus far.
> 
> I do use little 'feet' under the jiffy box to elevate it slightly off the top of the fridge for some extra circulation.



Mine gets slightly warm to the touch, nothing worth venting.


----------



## ashley_leask

adryargument said:


> Mine gets slightly warm to the touch, nothing worth venting.



I put some thick rubber feet under mine and it's in a 197x113x63 case and it doesn't get warm at all.


----------



## stux

Pretty much finished wiring up my two STC-1000s the other day.

Quite happy with them

Total build cost was less than 50$ each including the STC-1000 + shipping!

All parts were sourced from Jaycar, except the STC-1000 (or a clone, but I suspect its just un-stenciled) from metapark on ebay


----------



## insane_rosenberg

Stux said:


> Pretty much finished wiring up my two STC-1000s the other day.
> 
> Quite happy with them
> 
> Total build cost was less than 50$ each including the STC-1000 + shipping!
> 
> All parts were sourced from Jaycar, except the STC-1000 (or a clone, but I suspect its just un-stenciled) from metapark on ebay



G'Day Stux,

What Jaycar cat. number is that box? I wanted one about that size but they didn't look cheap?


----------



## stux

Shane R said:


> G'Day Stux,
> 
> What Jaycar cat. number is that box? I wanted one about that size but they didn't look cheap?



HB5912 
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HB...;SUBCATID=986#1


----------



## Dazza88

Looks oldschool stux.
I stupidly accidently bought a 110v version and it is on its way. Gonna send it back for a replacement. 

Anyone ever just used or adapted the 110 version for aussie use anyway?


----------



## stux

DazDog said:


> Looks oldschool stux.
> I stupidly accidently bought a 110v version and it is on its way. Gonna send it back for a replacement.


Nothing wrong with looking old school 

Main concern is with a smaller case, the power sockets would be too close together and I was worried about not being able to plug wall warts in (if that's what I wanted to plug in)



> Anyone ever just used or adapted the 110 version for aussie use anyway?



I'm sure the switching would work fine, the problem is the device runs on mains power, so if it supports 110/240 then you're fine... but its probably cheaper to make them 240V only, which means it won't work.


----------



## Dazza88

Stux - the oldschool comment was a compliment, looks cool. Reminds of a commodore 64 or apple ii which has been in the media a lot the last few days. My stc is in a smaller case, it has been running non stop for nearly a year now - no probs. 

Just received the new stc-1000 and they gave me the 220v version. All references to voltage on the back of the unit and in the instruction manual say 220v. I checked online to see what the 110v diagrams look like and they do state 110v, so i think i am right. Getting a sparky friend of friend to wire it so he can confirm this i guess.


----------



## weiht

Does anyone calibrate the STC1000? Or are these things pretty accurate out of box??? All of my thermometers are digital and give differing results!!!


----------



## Yob

I calibrated, or at least checked, the first of mine and found it to be accurate, I calibrated the second one I had to this one but still found it to vary up to 1'c, got a replacement and F4 is not needed.

All I can suggest is that it *is* best to at least check... I dont have a digital thermo though... an old candy type one that I trust (dunno why but I do) so makes checking accuracy simple.

Yob


----------



## weiht

iamozziyob said:


> I calibrated, or at least checked, the first of mine and found it to be accurate, I calibrated the second one I had to this one but still found it to vary up to 1'c, got a replacement and F4 is not needed.
> 
> All I can suggest is that it *is* best to at least check... I dont have a digital thermo though... an old candy type one that I trust (dunno why but I do) so makes checking accuracy simple.
> 
> Yob



The best i did was to mix ice and a little water, and measure to see how close it is to 0c... measured 0.7c


----------



## Yob

My testing method for the one I built today ro run the immersion element I've been dreaming about..




pretty damn close... will be waiting for the ambient readings in both. Always wanted to know if they were waterproof, now I know!! 

:icon_chickcheers:


----------



## QldKev

weiht said:


> Does anyone calibrate the STC1000? Or are these things pretty accurate out of box??? All of my thermometers are digital and give differing results!!!



I have 2 wired up at the moment. Calibrated against my trusty alcohol filled thermometer, one was spot on, the other was out by 2 degrees.

Also if you are going to check the calibration always do it around mash temp, cause thats where it matters the most.


QldKev


----------



## raven19

QldKev said:


> Also if you are going to check the calibration always do it around mash temp, cause thats where it matters the most.



Er, unless you use them to control a fermenting fridge, then 8 - 20 is a better range :icon_cheers:


----------



## Robbo_VIC

what do people normally use for the heating side?

And do they simply plug in the fridge (assuming they've wired it with a socket) for the cold side?

With regards to the calibration, the best way to do it without an accurate thermometer would be to get a cup of crushed ice and fill it with about 1cm of water, then let it sit for a bit then put the probe in there and it should read 0C.


----------



## Maheel

Robbo_VIC said:


> what do people normally use for the heating side?
> 
> And do they simply plug in the fridge (assuming they've wired it with a socket) for the cold side?
> 
> With regards to the calibration, the best way to do it without an accurate thermometer would be to get a cup of crushed ice and fill it with about 1cm of water, then let it sit for a bit then put the probe in there and it should read 0C.



i use a old school light bulb in a upside down teracotta pot 

yeah crank the fridge thermo to MAX COLD and set the temp you want on the STC to do the switching 
i often leave the heat unpluged when cooling rather than it switching hot -> cold -> hot -> cold depending on temps outside etc 

i calibrate against my collection of temp gauges and thermometers nothing to scientific


----------



## michael_aussie

iamozziyob said:


> First negative feedback on this topic I think, Its not the STC 1000 it must be said, but similar item from THIS SELLER
> 
> I had reason to think that one of my controllers was out, so tinkering today when dry hopping I took a thermometer reading and checked it against the STC and was pretty much spot on, I then ran the probe from the other item (forthe other fridge) linked above to same fermenter to check the difference..
> 
> 0.3 - 0.4'c variance.. it couldnt decide for a while <_<
> 
> cannot argue for the price I'm just sayin it's totally worth calibrating them against a trusted thermometer. (For those that have this one)
> 
> I still love it though not as much as the STC
> 
> Yob





iamozziyob said:


> cough.. I didnt realise for ages that my F4 was set to 3'c... so I guess I was fermenting at 15 for a while there  cough..
> how embarresment
> [edit] F number


I'll bet it comes from the same factory as the STC1000 .. and has the same guts as a STC1000.



DazDog said:


> Just received the new stc-1000 and they gave me the 220v version. All references to voltage on the back of the unit and in the instruction manual say 220v. I checked online to see what the 110v diagrams look like and they do state 110v, so i think i am right. Getting a sparky friend of friend to wire it so he can confirm this i guess.


these guys are smart enough to know that Aussieland is 240V, and so you've screwed up.



weiht said:


> Does anyone calibrate the STC1000? Or are these things pretty accurate out of box??? All of my thermometers are digital and give differing results!!!


I purchased 4 and side by side they all read within 0.3 degree so I didn't even bother adjusting F4. 
0.3 degree is close enough for me!!



Maheel said:


> i use a old school light bulb in a upside down teracotta pot
> 
> yeah crank the fridge thermo to MAX COLD and set the temp you want on the STC to do the switching
> i often leave the heat unpluged when cooling rather than it switching hot -> cold -> hot -> cold depending on temps outside etc
> 
> i calibrate against my collection of temp gauges and thermometers nothing to scientific


i too sometimes unplug the fridge or my heater if the ambient is kind.


----------



## rotten

Never had any dramas with my 2 operating stc-1000. I do have one for backup just in case. As a rule i set them 1.5-2c below what I need for consistent results.

Disclaimer - individual results may vary 

Cheers, no affiilation etc


----------



## Truman42

So if Im brewing in 15 litre cubes in a bar fridge can I just put the temp probe into a coke bottle filled with water, or am I better off taping it to the side of the fermenter? 

Im assuming that a couple of degrees variation wont matter that much in the scheme of things anyway?

Also this time of year in Melbourne where temps can be warm during the day but colder at night do you guys use heating in your brew fridges as well, or will the fridge keep the brew insulated at night enough that it shouldn't drop too much below 19C approx?


----------



## Maheel

Truman said:


> So if Im brewing in 15 litre cubes in a bar fridge can I just put the temp probe into a coke bottle filled with water, or am I better off taping it to the side of the fermenter?



plenty of ideas with this, some tape to the side of cube etc, insulate with foam, use a thermowell in the cube, dangle it in space ....

i put my probe in a 1L empty honey bucket put the lid on and sit it on top of the cube / barrel 
it slows the reaction to the door opening (loss of cold / warm air etc ) 

works for me and seems to keep the wash in the temp range i aim for 

i dont trust the probe to be water tight for ever ...


----------



## Muscovy_333

QUOTE (DazDog @ Oct 7 2011, 05:41 PM) 
Just received the new stc-1000 and they gave me the 220v version. All references to voltage on the back of the unit and in the instruction manual say 220v. I checked online to see what the 110v diagrams look like and they do state 110v, so i think i am right. Getting a sparky friend of friend to wire it so he can confirm this i guess.

these guys are smart enough to know that Aussieland is 240V, and so you've screwed up.



I have just ordered the 220V as well. 
Does that mean i need to send it back?
I'm clearly have no sparky now-how!


----------



## edschache

Muscovy said:


> I have just ordered the 220V as well.
> Does that mean i need to send it back?
> I'm clearly have no sparky now-how!



No - it means you need a second fermenting fridge


----------



## Nibbo

When i bought mine a few weeks ago i remember somewhere reading it had a tolerance of 10% meaning a 220V unit will handle 240V. This would be to accomadate different voltages and fluctuations in different countries. Don't take my word though...best to check that theory out. Powered mine up last week and no smoke to be seen or smelt. Gotta be a good sign.


----------



## Muscovy_333

Phew!


----------



## PhantomEasey

Truman said:


> So if Im brewing in 15 litre cubes in a bar fridge can I just put the temp probe into a coke bottle filled with water, or am I better off taping it to the side of the fermenter?
> 
> Im assuming that a couple of degrees variation wont matter that much in the scheme of things anyway?
> 
> Also this time of year in Melbourne where temps can be warm during the day but colder at night do you guys use heating in your brew fridges as well, or will the fridge keep the brew insulated at night enough that it shouldn't drop too much below 19C approx?



I use a similar setup as you Truman, only with a 20ltr cube. I lean a heat pad against the back wall to heat the ambient air, and the temp probe is passed through the handle of and suspended in the air surrounding the cube. As it is my first ferment with this setup I have no data to show if it is sufficient or not. The STC-100 seems to hover around 18*C (+/-0.5*C) for the ale I'm making atm.


----------



## Phoney

Has anyone written up a wiring diagram for cooling only? ie: the heating terminals won't be used at all as this is only for a chest freezer kegerator conversion....

Cheers


----------



## PhantomEasey

phoneyhuh said:


> Has anyone written up a wiring diagram for cooling only? ie: the heating terminals won't be used at all as this is only for a chest freezer kegerator conversion....
> 
> Cheers



I'm no sparky (engineer, so no electrical certs) but I would think you simply omit that half of the controller. If you're not looking to drive a heat source, there's no need to wire the live through that relay, or link back the earths or neutrals to their respective commons either.


----------



## Nibbo

I wired mine up so you plug your fridge and heat source in to a double power point on my STC 1000 box. Even though you might not use it now to heat, it might be something you would use down the track. Doesn't cost a lot to rig it up. Would be easier rigging it up now and not using it then not rigging it up and later on re-wiring it to suit.


----------



## Truman42

Just finished mine off and had it elect tested here at work for safety.

I've set my compressor delay to 1 min working on the assumption that once the compressor cuts off its going to be at least ten minutes or more before it climbs in temp enough to require the fridge turning back on again so the compressor will have at least that much rest. If my fridge needs to switch on sooner than that just to hold 19C then I've got a problem with its insulation etc. (which I don't)


----------



## Maheel

Nibbo said:


> I wired mine up so you plug your fridge and heat source in to a *double power point* on my STC 1000 box.



i hope that means you used two separate power points one for cool and one heat


----------



## Cortez The Killer

The picture in this post shows all the wiring for cooling only

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=747068

Cheers



phoneyhuh said:


> Has anyone written up a wiring diagram for cooling only? ie: the heating terminals won't be used at all as this is only for a chest freezer kegerator conversion....
> 
> Cheers


----------



## Nibbo

Maheel said:


> i hope that means you used two separate power points one for cool and one heat




I don't understand...a double power point is two seperate power sources. Each has a switch and it saves space.


----------



## Maheel

Nibbo said:


> I don't understand...a double power point is two seperate power sources. Each has a switch and it saves space



i was concerned as i had not seen a double power point where you could run two sets of wires to ? (one 240 for cool another 240 for heat) 


check put post 367 in page 19 of the thread, two small power points


----------



## Nibbo

Maheel said:


> i was concerned as i had not seen a double power point where you could run two sets of wires to ? (one 240 for cool on 240 for heat)
> 
> 
> check put post 367 in page 19 of the thread, two small power points



The one i used had seperate feeds...just made the box look a little professional...even though i built it :blink:


----------



## michael_aussie

Truman said:


> So if Im brewing in 15 litre cubes in a bar fridge can I just put the temp probe into a coke bottle filled with water, or am I better off taping it to the side of the fermenter?
> 
> Im assuming that a couple of degrees variation wont matter that much in the scheme of things anyway?
> 
> Also this time of year in Melbourne where temps can be warm during the day but colder at night do you guys use heating in your brew fridges as well, or will the fridge keep the brew insulated at night enough that it shouldn't drop too much below 19C approx?


there has been much debate here about where to stick your probe. 

I believe the "best" place is in a thermo-well within your fermenter. Not so easy to do.

A close approximation is to put the probe against the wall of your fermenter and put some sort of insulation around it to isolate it from the air. Some use bluetak, others strap it to the fermenter with a piece of foam over the top of the probe. I use bubble wrap and squeeze two fermenters together.

Others use a small container filled with water close by. They are happy with this set up. I think this is flawed, as you aren't measuring what you actually want to control. Yes, your coke bottle full of water will have a very steady temperature, but your beer could be a different temperature. If you aren't measuring your beer how would you know?





Muscovy said:


> QUOTE (DazDog @ Oct 7 2011, 05:41 PM)
> Just received the new stc-1000 and they gave me the 220v version. All references to voltage on the back of the unit and in the instruction manual say 220v. I checked online to see what the 110v diagrams look like and they do state 110v, so i think i am right. Getting a sparky friend of friend to wire it so he can confirm this i guess.
> 
> these guys are smart enough to know that Aussieland is 240V, and so you've screwed up.
> 
> 
> 
> I have just ordered the 220V as well.
> Does that mean i need to send it back?
> I'm clearly have no sparky now-how!


220V appliances are fine for 240V mains. If you read the name plate on many of your appliances you'll see they are plated as 220V.



Nibbo said:


> When i bought mine a few weeks ago i remember somewhere reading it had a tolerance of 10% meaning a 220V unit will handle 240V. This would be to accomadate different voltages and fluctuations in different countries. Don't take my word though...best to check that theory out. Powered mine up last week and no smoke to be seen or smelt. Gotta be a good sign.


you're correct nibbo. they are usually rated for +/- 10%, so 220 is ok for 198V-242V .. and therefore ok here.



phoneyhuh said:


> Has anyone written up a wiring diagram for cooling only? ie: the heating terminals won't be used at all as this is only for a chest freezer kegerator conversion....
> 
> Cheers


just leave off the heating output.



PhantomEasey said:


> I'm no sparky (engineer, so no electrical certs) but I would think you simply omit that half of the controller. If you're not looking to drive a heat source, there's no need to wire the live through that relay, or link back the earths or neutrals to their respective commons either.


no, don't link anything, just just leave off the heating output.



Nibbo said:


> I don't understand...a double power point is two seperate power sources. Each has a switch and it saves space.


most double power points only have a single feed... so you can't wire the heating output to one outlet and the cooling to the other.


----------



## QldKev

Nibbo said:


> The one i used had seperate feeds...just made the box look a little professional...even though i built it :blink:




Good idea, where did you get it from?

QldKev


----------



## Nibbo

QldKev said:


> Good idea, where did you get it from?
> 
> QldKev




Got it from *AWM,* a local electrical distributer. I'm sure Middy's or even bunnings sell them. This was more of a longer thinner power point as apposed to your regular household one. But in saying that i have seen these installed in homes so it's not as though there as rare as hens teeth. They do come with bridging wires so all you need to do is remove them. Simple i thought. Used a hole saw to cut out the 2 holes required, screwed it in and wal lah...instant sexyness.


----------



## QldKev

Nibbo said:


> Got it from *AWM,* a local electrical distributer. I'm sure Middy's or even bunnings sell them. This was more of a longer thinner power point as apposed to your regular household one. But in saying that i have seen these installed in homes so it's not as though there as rare as hens teeth. They do come with bridging wires so all you need to do is remove them. Simple i thought. Used a hole saw to cut out the 2 holes required, screwed it in and wal lah...instant sexyness.



Cool, will have to go find a coupe for my next project; should make it a bit neater

QldKev


----------



## Nibbo

QldKev said:


> Cool, will have to go find a coupe for my next project; should make it a bit neater
> 
> QldKev



Its called a Twin Skirting Mount. This one is from Clipsal.


----------



## bignath

michael_aussie said:


> Others use a small container filled with water close by. They are happy with this set up. I think this is flawed, as you aren't measuring what you actually want to control. Yes, your coke bottle full of water will have a very steady temperature, but your beer could be a different temperature. If you aren't measuring your beer how would you know?



A set up like this works very well with a little forward planning.

What i've done before is after my cube is filled from my boiler, let it cool outside. Come back the next morning and put it in the fridge for a few days at the desired ferment temp for that beer.
With a bottle full of water for the probe, over a few days, the temp of the cube will obviously be very close to the temp of the water bottle. I allow a day or two to account for the extra thermal mass of the cube...
Open cube, transfer to fermenter, pitch yeast, back in the fridge. Worked well. I stay ahead of my fermentation schedule with beer ready to go stored in cubes waiting for a spare FV. So it's no hassle for me to have a cube or two stored in the fridge equalising before i start fermenting it. 

This assumes a pretty large fridge though. 

Besides, even though a cube may go in the fridge mid 20's when the fridge is set to 18 because i'm already fermenting something else, i wouldn't mind betting the amount of time the small amount of extra heat of the warmer cube provides would be offset by the amount of time it would take to start dropping it the last couple of degrees. Thermal mass and all that stuff. I reckon it's pretty negligible.

Of course, none of this is scientific, just based on my own experiences. 

Will have to get the fridge sorted again soon as the weather is starting to warm up. Have been fermenting in a spare room in the house for the last 9months as our house temp is very stable.


----------



## cbet

The latest addition to my brewery:



With the thermometer I was using before (showing room temperature).



Sitting on top of the fridge I just scored for $35.

Thanks for all the helpful posts in this thread.


----------



## Tim F

michael_aussie said:


> these guys are smart enough to know that Aussieland is 240V, and so you've screwed up.


I think you'll find the Australian standard is 230v and a 220v appliance would generally run fine on 240 anyway


----------



## Dazza88

Yep 220v is suitable for our electricity system, 110v not so good.


----------



## stux

Defacto said:


> hey dude i saw your awesome work on the STC-1000 in this thread:
> http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=824333
> 
> can you confirm what parts you used? i know what box you got, but what cables etc...



1x Instrument Case, I think it was this one
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HB5912

2x Mains Panel Socket 
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...UBCATID=1001#12

1x Spare PC 3 pin power cable, which I chopped the end off, but you could just use this or any spare power lead you have
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4110

1x Cable Gland (i think this is the one I used), for the power cord
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0720


1m or so of 0.75mm2 hookup wire. I just bought a couple of meters of 3 core mains cable from bunnings, then I cut it into 30 cm lengths and pulled the cores out with pliers
something like this
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1562

3-way screw terminal strip. Just cut a cut off from a larger one that I actually had in my stash, but something like this
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HM3196

Zip ties. I used 100mm zip tie on the sensor cable, to stop pull-through, and you can pass it through the STC enclosure to keep it away from the mains wires, and 250mm one the inside side of the power cable gland to help prevent pull through, which were cut to size
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP1200
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP1202

And a small screw to screw the terminal block into the case.

I ensured that the earth leads were longer than the rest of the wires so that if the power cable did get pulled through the earth would be the last to fail.


----------



## Defacto

Stux said:


> 1x Instrument Case, I think it was this one
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HB5912
> 
> 2x Mains Panel Socket
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...UBCATID=1001#12
> 
> 1x Spare PC 3 pin power cable, which I chopped the end off, but you could just use this or any spare power lead you have
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4110
> 
> 1x Cable Gland (i think this is the one I used), for the power cord
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0720
> 
> 
> 1m or so of 0.75mm2 hookup wire. I just bought a couple of meters of 3 core mains cable from bunnings, then I cut it into 30 cm lengths and pulled the cores out with pliers
> something like this
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1562
> 
> 3-way screw terminal strip. Just cut a cut off from a larger one that I actually had in my stash, but something like this
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HM3196
> 
> Zip ties. I used 100mm zip tie on the sensor cable, to stop pull-through, and you can pass it through the STC enclosure to keep it away from the mains wires, and 250mm one the inside side of the power cable gland to help prevent pull through, which were cut to size
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP1200
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP1202
> 
> And a small screw to screw the terminal block into the case.
> 
> I ensured that the earth leads were longer than the rest of the wires so that if the power cable did get pulled through the earth would be the last to fail.



you're an absolute legend!!!! hope mine looks as good as yours


----------



## michael_aussie

michael_aussie said:


> these guys are smart enough to know that Aussieland is 240V, and so you've screwed up.






Tim F said:


> I think you'll find the Australian standard is 230v and a 220v appliance would generally run fine on 240 anyway


i think you missed the point. He actually ordered a 110V by mistake.... yet they sent him a 220V unit.

i'll bet people from all countries do that all the time (order the wrong voltage) .. and these guys (sellers of cheap electronic stuff in asia) are used to people screwing up, so rather than saying "are you sure" and entering into 10 emails that still doesn't sort out what you want, they just assume you've screwed up when you order a voltage different from your country's voltage, and the "fix" your order for you.


----------



## craigo

this is proberbly a silly question but how do you set the temprature for these things?


----------



## Yob

Hold down the set button for 5 secs, F1 will come up, press set again and you can then edit the setting up or down to choice

Yob 

[edit] Then press the power button to confirn the setting


----------



## Maheel

1turn on the power 
2hold in the s button for a while 
3press arrow to F1
4hold in s button while adjusting temp on screen to desired temp
5adjust for F2 F3 F4 if desired by going back to "3"
6 press power button once 

profit


----------



## craigo

iamozziyob said:


> Hold down the set button for 5 secs, F1 will come up, press set again and you can then edit the setting up or down to choice
> 
> Yob
> 
> [edit] Then press the power button to confirn the setting




thanks for the quick reply


----------



## Malted

craigo said:


> this is proberbly a silly question but how do you set the temprature for these things?


You will probably have more questions once you set the temp. Read these:

Programming the stc1000 ----AHB LINK

Download the operation manual in pdf LINK - this is easy to find in Google, heaps of people have it for download.


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Got one of these on the way, and a brand new chest freezer in the garage. Fired up the chest freezer the other day - very good seal - had to use a blunt tool to even get it open again.

I'd prefer not to drill into the unit while it's in warranty, and I am not inclined to build a collar at this point.

Am I going to cause too much in the way of inefficiency by running the probe under the seal? Maybe taping it up with some insulation tape? There's also a drainage pipe under the freezer, but that would require the probe living in a bit more permanently...

Thoughts?


----------



## raven19

If it seals that well draped over the lip/seal should be fine. Cold air sinks so should not leak much being a chesty.

I have them running past the seals in fridge doors with no issues.


----------



## Muscovy_333

Just wired up, plugged in and am observing my new STC-magic at work. 
Waiting for temps to settle, but looking the goods so far.
Amazing what I can achieve when I,m supposed to be writing school reports for the kiddies.
Ahh Procrastination!
Keep smelling the airlock on the two fermenters as well...whats with that! (Sorry bit OT...Procrastinate, Procrastinate...)


----------



## MaltyHops

Have a look at this BrewAdelaide post _Re: STC-1000 or this?_

T.


----------



## iralosavic

I wired my STC1000 up this weekend. Costs are as follows:

$26 STC1000 to my door.
$6 Plastic Jiffy Box
$7 2x 2m extension leads
$2 wire connector (cut it off at 3 terminals, leaving another 9 for future controllers).
$.50 2x home brews

Total $41 (Everything was from Jaycar)

Tools required

Drill with a drill bit slightly smaller than the extension lead diameter and another one to suit the temp probe relay wire
Hack/coping/pistol grip saw.
A sharp knife
A wire cutter (optional).
A small flat head screwdriver

First I taped around the footprint of the controller body on the front of the jiffy box, then I drilled holes in each corner to provide headroom for the hacksaw, then I cut out the hole and trimmed it down with a sharp knife. Next I drilled three equally spaced holes in the rear of the box to accommodate each of the mains leads and one smaller one on the side where the temp probe relay is closet to.

All I did was cut the two female leads, leaving 40cm (roughly) lead length with a knife, then stripped 15cm of the insulation off (including one of the male lengths). Then I used wire cutters to strip 2cm of the insulation off each mains wire for all leads. Then I stripped back the uneeded male lead and cut out a few donor wires of colours matching their applications. You'll understand why these are needed when analysing the wiring diagram. Then it was just a matter of playing dot-to-dot, using the screwdriver to secure each terminal. I simply braided wire junctions together before inserting into each terminal. 

I deliberately left the lead holes too small and whittled the insulation down on the leads so that I could force them through. Then I just wrapped the lead in electrical tape on the inside to provide a shoulder that would prevent them being able to be pulled through, not that you could do so by accident anyway as they were extremely tight fitting. I did the same for the temp probe wire, which sat a lot looser in the hole.

I will probably glue the contoller face to the box soon, but I cut the hole so that it fits quite tightly for now.


I was over-cautious, being not so electrically minded, and the whole process took around an hour. The unit works perfectly and the temp sensor is operating at the right temp straight out of the box (1 degree +/-), but I will attempt to calibrate to 0c using an ice slurry anyway. I confirmed the temp by comparing to my body temp with a body temp thermometer 

Hope this helps someone.


----------



## stux

You can use a cable tie instead of the electrical tape on the inside of the box to prevent pull-through

Just do it up real tight


----------



## iralosavic

Stux said:


> You can use a cable tie instead of the electrical tape on the inside of the box to prevent pull-through
> 
> Just do it up real tight



Yep that'd work fine too. I just have 5 rolls of electrical tape and hardly ever use the stuff. Most people would probably stencil the controller footprint with a pencil/marker, not tape too. Now you know why I did that too


----------



## Amber Fluid

Here is my 3rd unit. I was wanting one that I could remove all cords from to make it easier to move the keezer.

I have used an IEC power connection for the power. A recessed speaker connection for the probe and included a 240v power supply that switches on/off via a rocker switch that I use for a fan (or anything else).


----------



## Dazza88

Nice, like the speaker connection


----------



## Shifter

Nice work Bill.


----------



## pk.sax

MaltyHops said:


> Have a look at this BrewAdelaide post _Re: STC-1000 or this?_
> 
> T.


Interesting thread. Not one person that admits to having used one, or to be a sparky and analyse it. Heaps of scare mongering, the actual comparison is barely a few posts long. Love Internet scientists.

Btw, they're both made in China, with whatever their quality Certs are worth. I've pulled mine apart when I first got it and proved that a lot of components in there are actually rated higher than the advertised range of use. I'm no sparky, but understand margin of safety. I think I'm gonna need an STC1000 soon to work an HLT, but apart from that I'm happy running the fridge and freezer on these. It's quite a bonus with my chest freezer as I'd have had to put an STC1000 on the floor and it'd get kicked around inadvertently, this thing is small and hides away.


----------



## MaltyHops

practicalfool said:


> Interesting thread. Not one person that admits to having used one, or to be a sparky and analyse it.


 Not that I'm admitting anything ... there are at least 2.1 sparkies there.

Didn't have time to before but the link I posted relates to making a little foam ramp
to surround fridge controller cables and provide a smooth profile for the fridge seal to
go over to prevent leaks.


----------



## spog

nice,n, neet good work that ...cheers.spog.......


Amber Fluid said:


> Here is my 3rd unit. I was wanting one that I could remove all cords from to make it easier to move the keezer.
> 
> I have used an IEC power connection for the power. A recessed speaker connection for the probe and included a 240v power supply that switches on/off via a rocker switch that I use for a fan (or anything else).


----------



## stux

MaltyHops said:


> Not that I'm admitting anything ... there are at least 2.1 sparkies there.
> 
> Didn't have time to before but the link I posted relates to making a little foam ramp
> to surround fridge controller cables and provide a smooth profile for the fridge seal to
> go over to prevent leaks.



Was just planning something like this today!


----------



## Newbee(r)

...build done. Had sparky come out to certify it today. Had a few difficulties as the standard testing equipment doesn't have a temp control circuit option, and the controller controlling the power outs meant getting creative with the process but given the green light. A belkien urge protect power board or equivalent was recommended for insurance purposes given it was a home build. Cheers to Stux for the parts list, it worked a treat mate. 

J


----------



## alfadog

probably best not to tie knots in the cables into the housing, if you can get a few cable glands 16mm best, but 20mm will do the trick.


----------



## Newbee(r)

alfadog said:


> probably best not to tie knots in the cables into the housing, if you can get a few cable glands 16mm best, but 20mm will do the trick.




Agree, No knots in the wiring for my set up, (all the power in and out is in the back of the unit) and cable glands used for both the power and the thermometer. Extra locked inside with cable ties to ensure no pull through even if the unit was pulled by the power cord off the fridge.


----------



## Mattzilla

This thread is freakin awesome!

I'ma complete newby when it comes to electrics but even i understand how it all works now.

saying that i will be getting a qaulified sparky to set it up for me.

Thanks very nmuch to everyone for adding your diagrams and instructions

Matt


----------



## ryanclark111

*STC wired directly to compressor?*

I thought I would throw the question in here first.

Its a bit of a refrigeration type question more than electrical. I have a Euro-grand style kegerator which I want to use as both a kegerator and fermentation fridge. I am about to wire in the STC-1000 controller for fermentation but do not want to have it switching the overall power to the fridge on and off as it has a temp display on the front which I want to continuously run and it beeps when it is turned on (annoying in the small apartment I live in). My plan would be to use the STC controller to just switch power to the compressor however my knowledge of refrigeration is non existent. So my question is whether this is the only part of the fridge which controls the cooling or are there other parts that need to be switched on and off with it? I will also be putting in a bypass so I can switch off the controller when being used as a kegerator. 

and before anyone says it, I have searched through the volumes of info on the STC wiring threads. The info might be in there somewhere but I haven't found it.


----------



## Muscovy_333

I'd remove the beeper instead. 
You can use your STC temp thermostat settings for kegerator, fermenter or whatever...you could even hatch a chicken if you want!

I can't answer your fridge question, but by using the STC thermostat you have complete temp control to the degree (+/- a bees dick)


----------



## ryanclark111

Muscovy said:


> I'd remove the beeper instead.
> You can use your STC temp thermostat settings for kegerator, fermenter or whatever...you could even hatch a chicken if you want!
> 
> I can't answer your fridge question, but by using the STC thermostat you have complete temp control to the degree (+/- a bees dick)



I did think about taking out the beeper. I think it might be more work though.


----------



## Muscovy_333

mmmmmbeer said:


> I did think about taking out the beeper. I think it might be more work though.




Can you just pull the power to the external display?
Your STC will provide you with a digital display anyway......without the beep.


----------



## ryanclark111

Muscovy said:


> Can you just pull the power to the external display?
> Your STC will provide you with a digital display anyway......without the beep.



I have had a bit of a look, I would have to take apart a fair amount of the fridge to disconnect the display. I would rather just wire in the STC to the compressor if possible. But it will be my back up option.


----------



## adz1179

apologies if i have missed this in the last 20 odd pages, but i had a problem today and was curious if anyone has also had this issue....

brewing a dunkel at the moment, into the fermenting fridge this morning, all good, out we go for the day. when i got home i realised we must have had a blackout at some point in the day (clocks flashing etc). happened to check the fridge by chance, lights are on, but no motor and STC1000 is out... 

held the power button on for about 3 seconds, and away she went as normal, but the temp got up to 25 deg (fermenting at 19). working perfect now, but seems it didn't start back up when the power came back on..... is this a known issue?


----------



## alfadog

mmmmmbeer said:


> I have had a bit of a look, I would have to take apart a fair amount of the fridge to disconnect the display. I would rather just wire in the STC to the compressor if possible. But it will be my back up option.



It is probably just as much work to hard wire as it is to remove the beeper. Either way you will have to pull the unit apart. IMO I would just remove the beeper, that way you will have two displays of the temp, just for peace of mind


----------



## tdack

After spending a quality afternoon at the back table with a beer, some tools and a dremel I came up with this...

Inside:



Front:


Back:



Need a little more practice with the dremel, but the STC-1000 is working as advertised.

Now I need to make some beer to put in the newly commissioned fermenting fridge


----------



## vortex

Nice job!


----------



## Truman42

If anyone wants their STC1000 tested and tagged and is willing to drive to Dandenong Vic, PM me and I can get our test and tag guy at work to do it for you. We have the proper equipment that prints out the tag etc. 

It will cost you the measly some of 2 stubbies of HB.


----------



## NickB

Troy Dack said:


> After spending a quality afternoon at the back table with a beer, some tools and a dremel I came up with this...
> 
> Inside:
> View attachment 51830
> 
> Front:
> View attachment 51832
> 
> Back:
> View attachment 51831
> 
> 
> Need a little more practice with the dremel, but the STC-1000 is working as advertised.
> 
> Now I need to make some beer to put in the newly commissioned fermenting fridge




Nice work, very tidy!

If I knew what I was doing back in the day my Fridgemate boxes would look like that.... instead they look like a birds nest. 

Cheers


----------



## muthead

Hey guys,

I have just wired up my 2nd STC exactly like I did my first yet when I turn it on it is giving me the "EE" message and alarm. Does anybody know what this means and how to fix it? I'm guessing it is something to do with the sensor as I can change all of the variables, but the default screen shows EE.

Advice appreciated.

Mut


----------



## QldKev

muthead said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I have just wired up my 2nd STC exactly like I did my first yet when I turn it on it is giving me the "EE" message and alarm. Does anybody know what this means and how to fix it? I'm guessing it is something to do with the sensor as I can change all of the variables, but the default screen shows EE.
> 
> Advice appreciated.
> 
> Mut




Have you read the manual that should come with it?
http://mashmaster.com.au/UserFiles/2321-Fi...le/brewmate.pdf

EE - sensor open circuit or short circuit


QldKev


----------



## robbo5253

Have just ordered one of these and am looking to use it to run my Keezer.
I will be running the freezer and the fan, am I best to wire up a double power outlet to it, or just a single and then add a double adapter.
Also, has one rigged the fan up to a seperate socket and had it so it can run on cool or on all the time?
Just looking at my options.
Cheers
Robbo


----------



## sponge

Just a real quick question

Ive just had the STC1000 sitting inside a jiffy box since I got it, but want to mount it on the front for safety reasons (so im not playing around with the STC close to the wires and whatnot.... i know, i shouldve got around to this a very long time ago)

Just wondering what is the best way of cutting a hole (re: rectangle) out of the plastic jiffy box to mount the STC in?



Sponge


----------



## barrel01

I used a dremel but if you don't have one you can just drill a hole in one of the corners and use a small saw blade to cut out the rectangle. 

Failing that you can mount it so it sits on the top edge of the jiffy box side, that way you can just saw the 2 sides straight down from the top edge and cut out between the 2 vertical cuts, sit the stc in the gap and the lid will hold it in place along the top edge.

Hope that makes sense.


----------



## donburke

robbo5253 said:


> Have just ordered one of these and am looking to use it to run my Keezer.
> I will be running the freezer and the fan, am I best to wire up a double power outlet to it, or just a single and then add a double adapter.
> Also, has one rigged the fan up to a seperate socket and had it so it can run on cool or on all the time?
> Just looking at my options.
> Cheers
> Robbo




best to have the fan running all the time, not only when the freezer cycles on


i have a larger jiffy box that also houses a 240v AC to 12v DC tranformer that powers my fan, with its own on/off switch (dont know why i bothered with a switch as i have never switched it off)


----------



## alfadog

If anyone on the north side of Brissy (Wavell Hts) needs a sparky to look at any wiring issues I am available (My rates are reasonable)


----------



## wombil

Hey Mutthead,
I had the same problem.Everything looked ok BUT.I had one probe wire in the heater contact,{I only use the cold one},The contacts are very close together,.
LOOK CLOSELY.


----------



## raven19

sponge said:


> Just wondering what is the best way of cutting a hole (re: rectangle) out of the plastic jiffy box to mount the STC in?



Dremel if you have one for sure. I don't and used a jigsaw with a blade designed for cutting timber, and it works a treat (After drilling a starting hole first). Jigsaw blades for cutting metal tend to melt the plastic rather than cut it I have found (from experience of building 6 or so of these).


----------



## Amber Fluid

My first 2 I used a drill and a file.... *yawn* it was a long process and a real PITA. I then bought a Dremel from Jaycar for about $35 to use on the 3rd one and it was money well spent imo :icon_chickcheers:


----------



## sponge

Seems like the general consensus is to use a dremel.


Time to spend some hard earned cash monies.


Cheers for the replies,


Sponge


----------



## Newbee(r)

Sponge - late option - Drilling holes close together within a pre-drawn circle, and then slot in a sanding drill bit on your drill to neaten things up and the job was done in under an hour. I have a smaller volt wood working drill, but you can buy the bits for any size. 

Don't know what a dremel costs, but I am betting its more than a drill bit! A small point sanding drill bit is the go to get some nice smooth edges quickly.


----------



## vortex

I have a dremel, but i've had two of the cutting disks explode now, I don't fancy loosing an eye so the disks are firmly in the bin never to be used again. Just my opinion; but I'll stick to the 'right' tool for the job, for the next one I need to build  Jigsaw, hacksaw or something along those lines for me


----------



## Amber Fluid

Newbee(r) said:


> Don't know what a dremel costs, but I am betting its more than a drill bit! A small point sanding drill bit is the go to get some nice smooth edges quickly.


$30 from Jaycar and they come with multiple drill bits and lots of other bits.



vortex said:


> I have a dremel, but i've had two of the cutting disks explode now, I don't fancy loosing an eye so the disks are firmly in the bin never to be used again. Just my opinion; but I'll stick to the 'right' tool for the job, for the next one I need to build  Jigsaw, hacksaw or something along those lines for me



I don't know what type of disks you were using but I used a SS Saw bit and it went through it like a hot knife through butter. A Dremel is the right tool for the job imo.


----------



## Nick JD

I used a jigsaw.


----------



## Yob

Amber Fluid said:


> A Dremel is the right tool for the job imo.






Nick JD said:


> I used a jigsaw.




used both, I rekon you can get a cleaner finish faster with a dremmel type thingy, I got one of those cheapo ozito jobbies and is awesome for the job. 

used it on kegs when drilling holes to buff them clean... m ulti purpose makes it a win for me.

+1 for the dremmel

Yob


----------



## vortex

Amber Fluid said:


> I don't know what type of disks you were using but I used a SS Saw bit and it went through it like a hot knife through butter. A Dremel is the right tool for the job imo.



Ironic, isn't it  I think you're probably right, the disks I have are very fine cut off wheels, probably not made to cut plastic  Honestly not sure what they're designed for, they were really slow cutting the plastic, but given the huge array of Dremel bits available there is probably one that _is_ the right tool for the job, like you used 

So, with the right bit, the Dremel should do a good job


----------



## banora brewer

vortex said:


> Ironic, isn't it  I think you're probably right, the disks I have are very fine cut off wheels, probably not made to cut plastic  Honestly not sure what they're designed for, they were really slow cutting the plastic, but given the huge array of Dremel bits available there is probably one that _is_ the right tool for the job, like you used
> 
> So, with the right bit, the Dremel should do a good job


Are you talking about the black jiffy boxes?


----------



## keifer33

You can get a disc specifically for cutting Plastic with the Dremel, they work a treat. Dont think I could live without my Dremel now that I have one.


----------



## blotto

:icon_offtopic: I use safety glasses when I use any power tool as an eye injury is the last thing I want when I'm stuffing around in the shed!


----------



## Harry Volting

I've always had best results with the plastic boxes using a hot 'Stanley' knife blade in a metal knife.
Harry


----------



## michael_aussie

mmmmmbeer said:


> I have had a bit of a look, I would have to take apart a fair amount of the fridge to disconnect the display. I would rather just wire in the STC to the compressor if possible. But it will be my back up option.




clearly you want to .. i'm guessing its wires are easy to get to.. and the others are hidden.


the simple answer is .. yes you can run the compressor directly from the STC.


----------



## powerdog69

Hi Guys i wired up a STC-1000 controller yesterday everything tested good last night i connected the ST1000 to the fridge set the temp to 4c and went to bed , but in the morning the controller seems to have reverted back to default settings. my question is should the stc1000 retain the settings after a power fail.

cheers


----------



## alfadog

powerdog69 said:


> Hi Guys i wired up a STC-1000 controller yesterday everything tested good last night i connected the ST1000 to the fridge set the temp to 4c and went to bed , but in the morning the controller seems to have reverted back to default settings. my question is should the stc1000 retain the settings after a power fail.
> 
> cheers



It should remember the settings. Just remember to press the on/off button once you have set your F1 and F2 settings to activate the new settings.


----------



## powerdog69

Cool, don't think i had pressed power button in properly was also drunk at the time.

cheers


----------



## barrel01

powerdog69 said:


> Cool, don't think i had pressed power button in properly was also drunk at the time.
> 
> cheers


 I think the majority of us here could be accused of that. Including me at the moment. 

There really should be a law against a Sunday arvo of V8 Supercars, Cricket and a kegerator!


----------



## alfadog

powerdog69 said:


> Cool, don't think i had pressed power button in properly was also drunk at the time.
> 
> cheers



I know this from experience. I generally learn to do things by learning the 100 ways not to do it first!


----------



## peterlonz

Thanks guys for the tip on this very inexpensive controller.
I ordered one immediately.
Now I have to check the links provided here so I know how to wire it to my fridge.
I am aiming to control fermentation temperatures so now I need (another!!) cheap fridge.
Living on Queensland's Gold Coast the problem is mostly keeping temperatures down.
I use Coopers & Morgans kits mostly,& I have to say their yeasts are robust, they never fail to start, they can withstand thermal shock, & seem to make quite reasonable beer even when fermentation temperature is 25+.
But I am hoping to see an improvement with the temp maybe 4 or 5 deg lower.
On balance would anyone care to suggest a more suitable but reliable yeast for use at fermentation temps of say 20 Deg?
Thanks.


----------



## bowie in space

peterlonz said:


> Thanks guys for the tip on this very inexpensive controller.
> I ordered one immediately.
> Now I have to check the links provided here so I know how to wire it to my fridge.
> I am aiming to control fermentation temperatures so now I need (another!!) cheap fridge.
> Living on Queensland's Gold Coast the problem is mostly keeping temperatures down.
> I use Coopers & Morgans kits mostly,& I have to say their yeasts are robust, they never fail to start, they can withstand thermal shock, & seem to make quite reasonable beer even when fermentation temperature is 25+.
> But I am hoping to see an improvement with the temp maybe 4 or 5 deg lower.
> On balance would anyone care to suggest a more suitable but reliable yeast for use at fermentation temps of say 20 Deg?
> Thanks.



Check the yeasts provided by the sponsers above and search this site. I use liquid wyeasts to suit the style and reculture. 

Perhaps for you a $5 pack of safale 04 or 05 would be sufficient. You'll get a much cleaner profile in your beer, especially at 18-20C.

Bowie


----------



## bowie in space

I followed a link from this site that lead me to an ebay page for the STC-1000. I ordered and took over a month to arrive. This is what I got. It's a Willhi model number WH1076C.

Can I still use it? They've ticked the 220V input which I'm guessing will be ok, but I wasn't sent an STC-1000.


----------



## tomdavis

Hey Bowie, 

I have seen these ones, and as far as I can remember the biggest point of difference (and probably most important) is that these are only rated to 5 amp, whereas the STC-1000 are good up to 10amp. Just check the specs to make sure the amp rating is what you need it to be. 

IMHO if you bought the STC-1000, and they sent you the wrong one, send it back!





bowie in space said:


> View attachment 54606
> 
> 
> View attachment 54605
> 
> 
> I followed a link from this site that lead me to an ebay page for the STC-1000. I ordered and took over a month to arrive. This is what I got. It's a Willhi model number WH1076C.
> 
> Can I still use it? They've ticked the 220V input which I'm guessing will be ok, but I wasn't sent an STC-1000.


----------



## JaseH

I believe it could be a single channel controller as well(ie. cant do heat and chill at the same time.)

A work mate ordered something similar (Model WH7016C) for another application which looks to have the same terminals on the rear.

I'd be requesting they send you the correct one. If you ordered from China generally they will tell you to keep the unit and will send you the correct one as its not worth the return postage.


----------



## benno1973

Also, the wiring diagram is pretty blurry, but does it only have a single switching relay? The STC-1000 has 2 separate relays, meaning that it can have a cooling and a heating outlet connected. This only has one, so I assume that it can only be set to cool OR heat, not both?

Edit: Beaten by Frothie


----------



## stux

Can you take a clearer picture?

if its 10A and has both a heating and cooling relay, then its pretty much the same thing

STC-1000 just seems to be a particular branding of an OEM controller. My controller is not branded STC-1000 but is as far as I can tell, exactly the same thing.


----------



## bowie in space

Says 5 Amps and 220V input.

Not sure I understand why I want heating and cooling if I can just set the temp to what I need, ie. if I just want to run the fridge at 18C and drop it down for crash chilling when I need to, do I really need to return the product?

The wiring diagram above I found when searching "willhi" on this site.


----------



## QldKev

I would be contacting the supplier. 

That one is rated to 5amps, and only has 1 relay which is a manual switch between heat and cool mode.

QldKev


----------



## benno1973

Given that you're in Brissy (and my limited knowledge of Brisbane weather is it's generally warm?), you probably only need the cooling side of the controller, right? 

And I doubt any fridge would use close to 5A, unless it was a commercial fridge. Happy to be corrected though.

So with both of these in mind, this should be fine. Raise it with the ebay seller and you might be surprised - they may send you another for free. At the very least, they'll be aware that they're sending out incorrect items.


----------



## bowie in space

Sorry for the pictures guys. It says;

Input : AC220V
Temp Zone : -50C - 110C
Sensor : NTC25C = 10K B = 3435 (don't know what that means)
Amps : 5A/AC220V

The sensor is already plugged into NTC terminals 7 and 8.

Fron of the controller has set and reset buttons and up and down arrows. The text on the left says "Work" and "Set"

What do you guys think?


----------



## JoeF

*What do you guys think?*





Send it back


----------



## JaseH

Kaiser Soze said:


> Given that you're in Brissy (and my limited knowledge of Brisbane weather is it's generally warm?), you probably only need the cooling side of the controller, right?
> 
> And I doubt any fridge would use close to 5A, unless it was a commercial fridge. Happy to be corrected though.
> 
> So with both of these in mind, this should be fine. Raise it with the ebay seller and you might be surprised - they may send you another for free. At the very least, they'll be aware that they're sending out incorrect items.



+1

It might do the job but its not what you paid for. Tell them its not what you ordered and more than likely they will send you the correct item and you may get to keep that one anyway.


----------



## bowie in space

Just looked at the supplier I bought it from and they don't stock the stc-1000. When I clicked on the link on page one of this thread it lead me to a general "mini digital temperature controllers" page on ebay. I guess i picked the first one I saw because they all look the same from the small thumbnails and it was the same price as the others.

So, therefore I have made the mistake myself. I can now see the stc-1000's further down on the ebay page. Damn it.

I'll have to look into returning it to the supplier and then purchasing the correct model. 

Thanks for your help guys and sorry, ...my mistake.


----------



## benno1973

bowie in space said:


> I'll have to look into returning it to the supplier and then purchasing the correct model.



Seriously, if you're just using it for your ferment fridge, it'll do fine. The suggestion to return it to the supplier was only because you should get what you pay for, but if this is what you paid for, then it's all good.

As said, if you're only using it for cooling and you're using a regular fridge (i.e. less than 5A draw), you'll be fine. Just wire it up and go...


----------



## JoeF

Kaiser Soze said:


> Seriously, if you're just using it for your ferment fridge, it'll do fine. The suggestion to return it to the supplier was only because you should get what you pay for, but if this is what you paid for, then it's all good.
> 
> As said, if you're only using it for cooling and you're using a regular fridge (i.e. less than 5A draw), you'll be fine. Just wire it up and go...




Yeah, I agree. If it was their mistake then send it back and get the correct model, but as you figured out you clicked on the wrong model - it'll be fine to just control the fridge. And if your in QLD it's not going to drop a heap o/night like it does here in Melbourne so you can probably get away with just the cooling side.


----------



## peterlonz

I received my STC-1000 (220VAC) this morning.
Delivery was way too long & interestingly they emailed me (prior to delivery!) to ask if I was happy with their service. I told em to find a new shipping agent.
Their reply indicated "weather problems" en route to me in Australia, & they suggested I await anticipated delivery JUNE 3rd.
That would be about 6 weeks in delivery, I think maybe there is a horse & cart service in China.
More importantly, the documentation/instructions/wiring diagram is almost wholly in Chinese.
By checking their website:
http://www.1buycart.com/catalog/product/vi...acs/category/3/ 
I was able to establish which terminals serve which function:
Binding Post 1/2: normally open contact of relay
Binding Post 3/4: connect to 220V power supply
Binding Post 5/6: after short circuit lock on default set, users cant change
Binding Post 7/8: connect to supplied temperature sensor probe
BUT this is for the WH7016C & its still not particularly clear, & how any product such as this can me marketed internationally without English support beats me!


----------



## Maheel

that link is not a stc-1000 that one only does cooling _*OR*_ heating 


this is a stc-1000
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STC-1000-Digita...=item3f16aeaf33

8.Relay contact capacity: Cool 10A/250VAC;Heat 10A/250VAC


----------



## JaseH

STC1000 wiring is different to the WH7016C you linked to, try this.

Plenty of info on wiring up STC1000's around here anyway if you look.


----------



## MaestroMatt

I got mine STC 1000 today.

Posted from Hong Kong 6 May - Received Western Victoria (i,e, not a capital) 17th May.

I couldn't ask for better shipping than that.

If anyone is interested, I will find the seller I used and post the deets here.


----------



## sponge

Yea thats some real impressive shipping. Mine took a good month or so to arrive just south of Sydney. 

A little bit of a poor effort on the shipping front, but for a cheap as chips temperature controller, it all worked out in the end


Sponge


----------



## stux

sponge said:


> Yea thats some real impressive shipping. Mine took a good month or so to arrive just south of Sydney.
> 
> A little bit of a poor effort on the shipping front, but for a cheap as chips temperature controller, it all worked out in the end
> 
> 
> Sponge



Funnily, I bought 2 at the same time I while back. One arrived in 2 weeks... they other took 4! 

Anyway, you pay for the slow boat from china (as in "free shipping") you get the slow boat, but the price can not be argued with


----------



## Johndec

I ordered 2 off ebay on the 8/5/12. They were shipped on 10/5/12 and arrived in Sydney on 15/5/12. 1 week from order to delivery from Hong Kong. Can't complain about that!! Wired them up yesterday and they are working perfectly, thanks to the hints, tips and instructions here.


----------



## Wolfy

bowie in space said:


> Just looked at the supplier I bought it from and they don't stock the stc-1000. When I clicked on the link on page one of this thread it lead me to a general "mini digital temperature controllers" page on ebay. I guess i picked the first one I saw because they all look the same from the small thumbnails and it was the same price as the others.
> 
> So, therefore I have made the mistake myself. I can now see the stc-1000's further down on the ebay page. Damn it.
> 
> I'll have to look into returning it to the supplier and then purchasing the correct model.


Yes, you need to be careful of that, they use the same auction description "Mini digital temperature controller" and it does do what it says, but many of the cheaper ones are not STC 1000 but the cheaper models that are only rated at 5A and do not automatically switch between heating/cooling.

@*peterlonz* the 'weather excuse' is a load of BS.
I've been buying a lot of things from China in the last few weeks, and if you read the automated-info carefully, they suggest delays due to floods in Australia (which were last year).
Most of my ebay stuff has arrived within 2 weeks, 3 at the most.


----------



## Camo1234

Kaiser Soze said:


> Given that you're in Brissy (and my limited knowledge of Brisbane weather is it's generally warm?), you probably only need the cooling side of the controller, right?
> 
> And I doubt any fridge would use close to 5A, unless it was a commercial fridge. Happy to be corrected though.
> 
> So with both of these in mind, this should be fine. Raise it with the ebay seller and you might be surprised - they may send you another for free. At the very least, they'll be aware that they're sending out incorrect items.




Depends on how stable you want your ale temps to be.... I have found that I need heating and cooling mainly for when I want to raise temps above 20c I need to throw on a heatbelt to keep the temp up at night as it still drops to 6-8c at night at the moment.... A blanket over the fermenter could do the same job but I love the set and forget of the STC1000!


----------



## peterlonz

Just completed my first wire up of the STC-1000.
In case what I found may help others etc:
1) Calibrated against my -10 to 50 Deg C alcohol filled lab thermometer the STC is about 1 Deg out.
Against two other digital thermometers (both claim only +or- 1 Deg accuracy, my STC falls roughly in the middle.
If calibrating in iced water take care, its easy to not use enough ice & best to use crushed ice.

2) The user instructions supplied with my unit were entirely in Chinese, yes they quickly sent a pdf in English.
The translation is poor & instructions are garbled so I will have to experiment. 

3) The red LED display is not as bright as I would like, & you have to get close at eye level to easily read.

4) I read much posted here about how to do the practical hook up. All good but:
a) The cable glands I used were difficult to get really tight.
b) I could not get the cable ties on the inside of my enclosure as tight as is required to be sure of cable retention.
c) I selected an enclosure that was a bit small (in my junk box - zero cost) making the cable connections in limited space was not easy.
d) I improvised a protective enclosure exit sheath for the probe cable. Used a bit of soft synthetic rubber tube of small diam with cable ties inside & out. Not the best but at least the cable has some protection.
e) I did drill, the bottom, sides, back, & top, with 3 mm diam vent holes. Hard to freehand this & keep it looking good. Next time, seeing no-one here did this, I may not repeat.

5) I am still not convinced the 10 amp switching circuit, is good long term to direct switch the compressor, which is an inductive load. I emailed the manufacturers on this but as you might expect - no response.


----------



## Dazza88

Just got my chest freezer back after a new thermostat was installed, a freezer one. Can anyone recommend f2, f3 and f4 settings for a chest freezer for keg dispensing? Is it different to a fridge setup? 

I ask because I am wondering if you want the compresser to turn on less often than a fridge aka other threads about chesties dying.


----------



## Wolfy

DazDog said:


> Just got my chest freezer back after a new thermostat was installed, a freezer one. Can anyone recommend f2, f3 and f4 settings for a chest freezer for keg dispensing? Is it different to a fridge setup?


F2: Temperature difference (mine are set to 0.3 to 0.5)
F3: Compressor delay time (mine are set to 3mins)
F4: Temperature Calibration (as appropriate, mine is default, check with your own accurate thermometer)


----------



## Bogan333

http://www.back2basicshomebrew.com.au/inde...gory_pathway=26

$89.95
6amp Temp Controller with Auto Switching Independent Heat & Cool
All in a contained box with plug sockets

** Note this unit is factory made and certified**
Now that the summer weather is here it is harder to keep your brew cool, the easiest way is to use one of these connected to your fridge or freezer. You can keep making your favourite lager beer all though the hot summer months.
Do you have a consistency problem between your brews? Sometime its fantastic other times its just average and you have done everything the same as before, this might mean that you have temperature fluctuation thats affecting the taste of your brew, this can be eliminated by the use of this temperature controller, your brew will stay at a predetermined temperature and will only fluctuate 0.1 Deg C. Perfect brew every time.
You can use this all year round in your fridge/freezer even in cold weather. To keep the ambient temperature above your pre-set temperature e.g. 15⁰ and at night it gets down below this and above this through the day, just put a heat pad in your fridge/freezer (not under your fermenter) This will Keep your brew at one temperature all year round.

Includes:

Temperature Probe
Instructions
Control Panel and box

Features:

Broad temperature operating range (-45⁰C 120⁰C) and high accuracy.
Comes with included temperature probe
0.1 ⁰C Accuracy
High and Low Temperature Alarm with Optional Alarm Delay
Celsius and Fahrenheit display option
Independent Heating and Cooling Delay Start Control
16amp Heating or Cooling capacity
Inbuilt alarm
Fridge On or Heater On Indicator Icon


----------



## Wolfy

georgecopley said:


> http://www.back2basicshomebrew.com.au/inde...gory_pathway=26


As per the logo in the picture on the page you linked, it's a re-sold KegKing unit (which I thought was rated to higher than 6Amp, and if you're in Melbourne they sell cheaper).


----------



## Dazza88

Wolfy said:


> F2: Temperature difference (mine are set to 0.3 to 0.5)
> F3: Compressor delay time (mine are set to 3mins)
> F4: Temperature Calibration (as appropriate, mine is default, check with your own accurate thermometer)



Thanks mate. 

Going to improve the insulation as well.


----------



## Danielscott26

Just installed my stc-1000 today. It was really easy after reading all the advice and tips on this forum. Ive included some pics.


----------



## barls

georgecopley said:


> http://www.back2basicshomebrew.com.au/inde...gory_pathway=26
> 
> $89.95
> 6amp Temp Controller with Auto Switching Independent Heat & Cool
> All in a contained box with plug sockets
> 
> ** Note this unit is factory made and certified**
> Now that the summer weather is here it is harder to keep your brew cool, the easiest way is to use one of these connected to your fridge or freezer. You can keep making your favourite lager beer all though the hot summer months.
> Do you have a consistency problem between your brews? Sometime its fantastic other times its just average and you have done everything the same as before, this might mean that you have temperature fluctuation thats affecting the taste of your brew, this can be eliminated by the use of this temperature controller, your brew will stay at a predetermined temperature and will only fluctuate 0.1 Deg C. Perfect brew every time.
> You can use this all year round in your fridge/freezer even in cold weather. To keep the ambient temperature above your pre-set temperature e.g. 15⁰ and at night it gets down below this and above this through the day, just put a heat pad in your fridge/freezer (not under your fermenter) This will Keep your brew at one temperature all year round.
> 
> Includes:
> 
> Temperature Probe
> Instructions
> Control Panel and box
> 
> Features:
> 
> Broad temperature operating range (-45⁰C 120⁰C) and high accuracy.
> Comes with included temperature probe
> 0.1 ⁰C Accuracy
> High and Low Temperature Alarm with Optional Alarm Delay
> Celsius and Fahrenheit display option
> Independent Heating and Cooling Delay Start Control
> 16amp Heating or Cooling capacity
> Inbuilt alarm
> Fridge On or Heater On Indicator Icon


do they come with ether a test tag or compliance number? you might find its illegal to sell otherwise.


----------



## Rob S

peterlonz said:


> 2) The user instructions supplied with my unit were entirely in Chinese, yes they quickly sent a pdf in English.
> The translation is poor & instructions are garbled so I will have to experiment.
> 
> 5) I am still not convinced the 10 amp switching circuit, is good long term to direct switch the compressor, which is an inductive load. I emailed the manufacturers on this but as you might expect - no response.



You can Google instructions that are coherent


If you want overkill spend $3 on a solid state relay from China on eBay and wire that up. If you got a big enough nifty box you could fit it all together.


----------



## woodwormm

Rob S said:


> If you want overkill spend $3 on a solid state relay from China on eBay and wire that up. If you got a big enough nifty box you could fit it all together.




I was under the impression the STC1000 was switching 240V? yet the 3 buck ssr's i find have a switching requirement of DC 3-32volt...


----------



## glenwal

printed forms section said:


> I was under the impression the STC1000 was switching 240V? yet the 3 buck ssr's i find have a switching requirement of DC 3-32volt...



The STC just has relays for the heating/cooling, not switched 240V outputs, so you can switch what ever you like. Of course if you want to switch an SSR with (say) 12V you'll need a 12V power supply aswell.


----------



## daemonium

Thanks to everyone who have contributed to this thread. Lots of invaluable information for us novices. I've got my STC1000 working and currently looking for a brew fridge on ebay. Can't wait to brew a lager for summer.

Daryl


----------



## peterlonz

Some doubt I see remains about the switching capacity of the STC 1000 controller.

I was also concerned that direct switching of the fridge compressor might be asking a bit too much.

Bearing in mind the popularity of this unit & its low price I was determined to resolve the issue.

I exchanged several emails with the manufacturer & although the initial response was a bit slow; I was advised definitively that the unit is designed to direct switch fridge compressors.
A touch of common sense here of course, we are talking domestic type fridges.


----------



## QldKev

peterlonz said:


> Some doubt I see remains about the switching capacity of the STC 1000 controller.
> 
> I was also concerned that direct switching of the fridge compressor might be asking a bit too much.
> 
> Bearing in mind the popularity of this unit & its low price I was determined to resolve the issue.
> 
> I exchanged several emails with the manufacturer & although the initial response was a bit slow; I was advised definitively that the unit is designed to direct switch fridge compressors.
> A touch of common sense here of course, we are talking domestic type fridges.



I would not be too concerned with fridge compressors. I'm switching a 2400w element with one (also 2200w, and 2000w and 1850w setups) and have had no issues. 

QldKev


----------



## dicko

QldKev said:


> I would not be too concerned with fridge compressors. I'm switching a 2400w element with one (also 2200w, and 2000w and 1850w setups) and have had no issues.
> 
> QldKev



I fitted one to a 3 door drink fridge with a drop in Kirby Compressor unit and used it for 3 and a half years.
I then moved house and sold it to a local pub and they are using it for bottle stocks for the bar. New owners in the pub I believe but afaik it is still going strong.
Cheers


----------



## slash22000

G'day all,

Finally got my STC-1000 hooked up to my chest freezer, but I've run into a problem. Apparently, my freezer cools_ too well?_

I have it set on 18C temp, 0.5C differential, 3 minute delay, default calibration.

When it hits 18C the compressor shuts down, but the temperature continues to drop all the way down to about 16.5C (it switches on the heat function but no heater attached) ... then it (very slowly) rises to 18.5C ... at which stage it blows all the way back down to 16.5C again ... I have the probe just hanging inside the freezer at the moment for testing purposes - could that be the problem? Measuring air rather than liquid?

I've tried setting the differential to 0.3C (the minimum) because I figured the compressor wouldn't be on as long going from 18.3C, but it still fell down to 16.5C.

There is a "Coldness" gauge on the side of the freezer, which is set to maximum. I have no idea if that controls the operating strength of the compressor or if it controls the final temperature (which is irrelevant given the STC-1000).

*EDIT: Set the "Coldness gauge to 50% of maximum. Still blows down to 16.5C so there goes that theory.*


----------



## vortex

You could just turn down the dial on the freezer so it doesn't cool so quickly.


----------



## slash22000

vortex said:


> You could just turn down the dial on the freezer so it doesn't cool so quickly.


Turned it down to its minimum and it still goes down to 16C or worse. I've put the probe in water now to see if it's maybe an airflow thing, might make it more stable.


----------



## QldKev

slash22000 said:


> G'day all,
> 
> Finally got my STC-1000 hooked up to my chest freezer, but I've run into a problem. Apparently, my freezer cools_ too well?_
> 
> I have it set on 18C temp, 0.5C differential, 3 minute delay, default calibration.
> 
> When it hits 18C the compressor shuts down, but the temperature continues to drop all the way down to about 16.5C (it switches on the heat function but no heater attached) ... then it (very slowly) rises to 18.5C ... at which stage it blows all the way back down to 16.5C again ... I have the probe just hanging inside the freezer at the moment for testing purposes - could that be the problem? Measuring air rather than liquid?
> 
> I've tried setting the differential to 0.3C (the minimum) because I figured the compressor wouldn't be on as long going from 18.3C, but it still fell down to 16.5C.
> 
> There is a "Coldness" gauge on the side of the freezer, which is set to maximum. I have no idea if that controls the operating strength of the compressor or if it controls the final temperature (which is irrelevant given the STC-1000).
> 
> *EDIT: Set the "Coldness gauge to 50% of maximum. Still blows down to 16.5C so there goes that theory.*





The air has no thermal mass. Throw a fermenter full of water in the and attached the probe to the side under some form insulation from the air. The thermal mass of the water will fix it up for you.

QldKev


----------



## citizensnips

+1 test on thermal mass. I used mine with a ss probe in about 1 litre of water to test it when I got it and thought f%$k my average reptile heater isnt going to cut it, then when a good 18 litres was in there the whole system maintains itself perfectly.


----------



## slash22000

That's good to know. I'm not a physicist or anything but that all makes sense. I'll be brewing a batch tomorrow, my first with temperature control and in Darwin that's saying something. Thanks all.


----------



## peterlonz

I'm not sure any of the explanations here concerning "thermal mass" & temp under/overshoot are on target.
Some lag will always occur in controlling such systems but without any STC-1000 controller my old fridge does better than the situation described.
If you attempt to control an oven or even an "electric frypan", similar problems arise even with the best controllers available ( and some work predictively). In such cases the thermal mass causing response delay is large & significant elements are often well beyond the temp of materials in close proximity to the sensing probe.

I'm fairly sure there are reports in this (and other) threads giving feedback about very adequate control.
Placing the probe in a bottle of water or similar, is plainly a sound approach, but 18 litres is surely going a bit far.


----------



## Yob

how big is your fermenting vessel?

you are using the *unit to control the temperature of the device (fridge/freezer) the actual internal air temp doesnt really matter as long as the wort is at the correct temps.

*ed


----------



## slash22000

Yob said:


> how big is your fermenting vessel?



I was only testing air temperature last night. I guess I've been out of school for too long, I didn't think how the temperatures fluctuations might change in a large vessel of liquid compared to the air inside the freezer.  

For fermenting I'm using a couple of those trusty blue Willow containers. I'm putting down a beer tonight so we'll see how it goes.


----------



## slash22000

Thought I'd post an update on this situation. Put a brew down last night in the ole Willow container.

Wort was at about 36C when I first put it in the freezer. It took a _very _long time to cool down to 18C, after 4-5 hours it was at 24C or something. I left it overnight to cool down and pitched my yeast this morning at 18C, hopefully I managed to sanitise the container properly, I've never left wort sitting around for ~12 hours before.

I have room for another container in the freezer but I'm somewhat worried about putting down my next brew, if it takes that long to cool down to 18C with the freezer running flat out, how long will a new batch take to get down to 18C just sitting inside the cooler?  Damn tropics.


----------



## MaltyHops

slash22000 said:


> Thought I'd post an update on this situation. Put a brew down last night in the ole Willow container.
> 
> Wort was at about 36C when I first put it in the freezer. It took a _very _long time to cool down to 18C, after 4-5 hours it was at 24C or something. I left it overnight to cool down and pitched my yeast this morning at 18C, hopefully I managed to sanitise the container properly, I've never left wort sitting around for ~12 hours before.
> 
> I have room for another container in the freezer but I'm somewhat worried about putting down my next brew, if it takes that long to cool down to 18C with the freezer running flat out, how long will a new batch take to get down to 18C just sitting inside the cooler?  Damn tropics.



Panic! No wait ... at first I thought you were proposing to put another
hot cube into fridge to cool while you've still got one fermenting in there.
This would definitetly not be a good idea.

A way that might help is to put a cube of water in the fridge a couple of
days before you brew and cool it down as much as you can.

Then when you put a hot cube into fridge the cold cube of water in there
will help to soak up a good deal of the heat from the hot cube and this
ought to speed up cooling of the hot cube. Check both cubes after a
couple of hours and if they are at about the same temp, remove the
cube of water.

Large blocks of ice would be even better if you can freeze some. If you can
fit even more water containers in the fridge with the 2 cubes, add them to
the pre-cooling as well.


----------



## slash22000

MaltyHops said:


> Panic! No wait ... at first I thought you were proposing to put another
> hot cube into fridge to cool while you've still got one fermenting in there.
> This would definitetly not be a good idea.



Well I wouldn't put a _boiling hot_ cube in there alongside one fermenting. Thing is though, in Darwin, outside the fridge the coldest the wort is going to get is maybe 24-28C depending on air conditioning. It's going to need to go in the cooler eventually to get down to pitching temperature. :unsure:


----------



## Silvern

Ok so I'm not sure if I've done the right thing here, But I'll let you guys be the judge 

I broke the temperature control probe in my fridge a while back and ordered an STC-1000 to fix the problem. Basically, I've disconnected all the wires from the original temperature control box and this is what I've got:





Now unfortunately these are all inside the fridge. What I was hoping to be able to do was to extend the wires outside the fridge an into an STC-1000:





But this looks like a bit of an odd way to do it from what I've seen on these forums, most seem to have put the controller at some point along the main power line into the back of the fridge??

Is what I'm trying to do even possible?

Quick EDIT: At the very least, which of the wires above would I need to connect together to just get the fridge to run! At the moment it obviously does nothing (also not game to turn it on with exposed wires)


----------



## nathan_madness

Yeah it is possible. I have my fermenting fridge set up this way. I just cut a hole to fit the STC in the door of the fridge just in front of where the standard thermostat was and then wired it up inside and also added the heater to the inside too. Just have a look in the back of your fridge where the compressor is and there will be a wiring diagram or if there is not you can just trace the wires to where they go. 
It looks like the same wiring as my F&P fridge Brown is constant positive, blue is negative green and yellow is earth and orange is compressor switch. Definately double check yours though. 
I also extended the wires so that the door could swing fully open use a junction box where your thermostat was and get a bit of flexable electrical tubing to protect the wires



LittleBrewer said:


> Ok so I'm not sure if I've done the right thing here, But I'll let you guys be the judge
> 
> I broke the temperature control probe in my fridge a while back and ordered an STC-1000 to fix the problem. Basically, I've disconnected all the wires from the original temperature control box and this is what I've got:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now unfortunately these are all inside the fridge. What I was hoping to be able to do was to extend the wires outside the fridge an into an STC-1000:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But this looks like a bit of an odd way to do it from what I've seen on these forums, most seem to have put the controller at some point along the main power line into the back of the fridge??
> 
> Is what I'm trying to do even possible?
> 
> Quick EDIT: At the very least, which of the wires above would I need to connect together to just get the fridge to run! At the moment it obviously does nothing (also not game to turn it on with exposed wires)


----------



## Dunkelbrau

So you want to wire the fridges power (female side of the original diagrams) into the STC directly?


----------



## Silvern

Jurt said:


> So you want to wire the fridges power (female side of the original diagrams) into the STC directly?



Yep.

Update, was able to pull this cable loom through the back of the fridge, so that I can run it to the STC-1000 OUTSIDE the fridge  Turns out back of fridge just has a long length of plustic tubing that the cable all runs through. Thanks for the advice Nathan, ues the same wiring as your fridge by the looks. Checked and the orange runs to the compressor switch.

Trying to work out how to wire it up now


----------



## dammag

Wouldn't you just join the active to the compressor switch wire so that the fridge would run continuously and do the controlling as per the normal arrangement outside the fridge putting the STC1000 in between the wall outlet and the lead going to the fridge?

Of course do your homework before doing this to confirm that this will work and be safe.

I bought a fridge with a broken thermostat and I am pretty sure this is what I did.


----------



## nathan_madness

It should go:
Terminal 1 Brown
Terminal 2 Blue
Terminal 1 and 7 connect together
Termainal 8 Orange



LittleBrewer said:


> Yep.
> 
> Update, was able to pull this cable loom through the back of the fridge, so that I can run it to the STC-1000 OUTSIDE the fridge  Turns out back of fridge just has a long length of plustic tubing that the cable all runs through. Thanks for the advice Nathan, ues the same wiring as your fridge by the looks. Checked and the orange runs to the compressor switch.
> 
> Trying to work out how to wire it up now


----------



## Silvern

nathan_madness said:


> It should go:
> Terminal 1 Brown
> Terminal 2 Blue
> Terminal 1 and 7 connect together
> Termainal 8 Orange


Thanks Nathan, this makes sense to me but just to be on the safe side I'll get one of my electrician friends to wire it up 

Cheers for the help!


----------



## contrarian

Instead of starting yet another stc-1000 thread I thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any ideas. 

I've hooked it up following the designs in this thread, double and triple checked it and everything seems to be fine. It is switching both heat and cool sides on and off relative to the measured temperature. 

The problem is that after running for about 10 minutes the measured temperature goes completely haywire and starts reading 80-90C even though the probe is in a chesty running flat out. I'm wondering if the temp sensor is faulty but after going to Jaycar and dick smith it doesn't look like it will be easy to get another sensor to test the theory... Any ideas?


----------



## yum beer

Sounds like a dodgy controller, may need to shell another red back for a replacement. Not a bad idea to have a spare one laying around in case this sort of thing happens.


----------



## vortex

contrarian said:


> I've hooked it up following the designs in this thread, double and triple checked it and everything seems to be fine. It is switching both heat and cool sides on and off relative to the measured temperature.
> 
> The problem is that after running for about 10 minutes the measured temperature goes completely haywire and starts reading 80-90C even though the probe is in a chesty running flat out. I'm wondering if the temp sensor is faulty but after going to Jaycar and dick smith it doesn't look like it will be easy to get another sensor to test the theory... Any ideas?


Do you hear two relays click when it turns on or just one? I'd be thinking there might be a wire wrong if it's just one relay clicking, otherwise if it's two clicks then the unit may be faulty. Can you post some detailed shots of the wiring so the gurus can offer further suggestions?

If you do choose to try a different sensor, look for a temp sensor called a 'thermistor' as that's the style of thermometer used by the STC-1000.


----------



## QldKev

Where are you? Maybe a local person can lend you a probe for a test.

Post some close ups of the probe wiring, do you have a connection going into the enclosure?

If you go to you local electronics shops and get a 10KΩ resistor for <$1 then replace the probe with that. ie, remove the probe and use the resistor between the 2 terminals. It should show 25c
(Jaycar has a pack of 8 for 46c)
If you can't get a 10KΩ grab any close value one and let me know what value resistor you have so we can tell you what temperature reading to expect.


QldKev


----------



## contrarian

Thanks for your reply qldkev. I have taken some photos but can't figure out how to upload them from my phone and can't login from the computer for some reason, will try later.

Have checked the wiring again and it matches the diagrams in this thread so pretty sure it isn't that.

The unit seems to run properly for a few minutes with one click when the cooling delay has passed and the same for heating. After running like this the temperature starts jumping around up to around 90 degrees and then hovers around there. The unit is also making a chirping sound which seems to change as the numbers change.

Hopefully will be able to post some pics later on today.

It's annoying as having wired it up and given it a general test I put a brew down and it is bubbling away nicely in the chesty but with no temp control. I live at Callala bay on the nsw south coast so it is pretty mild and beer should be fine but this will do my head in until I figure it out!

Edit: vortex, here's a few pictures of the wiring and a close up of the sensor connection. The wire is straight into the unit with no connectors.










The tape is an interim measure to stop the wires pulling from the back of the box until I pick up some cable ties.. or find the ones I know are in the shed somewhere!


----------



## QldKev

I had one about a year ago die, the relays would start chattering when the last digit on the display was an 8.

If the unit is also making chirping sounds, I'm guessing there must be an issue with the unit itself.

But later if you can get a pic up, we can verify that the wiring looks ok. My guess is you will need another unit.

QldKev


----------



## contrarian

yum beer said:


> Sounds like a dodgy controller, may need to shell another red back for a replacement. Not a bad idea to have a spare one laying around in case this sort of thing happens.


Thanks mate, have been in touch with the seller who seems genuinely helpful so if that is the case I might get a replacement. Would almost rather this was the case as the other option is that I'm an idiot!


----------



## QldKev

I see the pics are up now, all looks good and nice neat wiring.

Double check where the sensor probe goes into the stc that the insulation is not getting in the way. But honestly I don't think it is a probe wiring issue as 80-90c is closer to 1KΩ, if it had a bad contact you would expect a higher resistance, not lower.


----------



## contrarian

QldKev said:


> I see the pics are up now, all looks good and nice neat wiring.
> 
> Double check where the sensor probe goes into the stc that the insulation is not getting in the way. But honestly I don't think it is a probe wiring issue as 80-90c is closer to 1KΩ, if it had a bad contact you would expect a higher resistance, not lower.


Thanks mate, is it worth trying a different sensor or should I just start again?


----------



## QldKev

You could try a different sensor, or the resistor as above. It would isolate if the probe was the cause. If you have a jaycar/electronics shop local it's cheap enough to try. If you can;t get the 10K, don't get a 1K as it would put you in the temperature range you are seeing now.

With the extra sounds you mentioned I'm guessing it's in the unit itself. You could open up the unit and have a look at the soldering, looking for solder or other crap that could cause any bridges that would allow a small current to short.

QldKev


----------



## Screwtop

Hmmm........ after a close look I would make sure the sensor conductors are clamped by the screw terminals in the unit, Dont push the wires in so far that the insulation is in the clamp of screw terminal just the conductor.

They will go into alarm state if the sensor circuit goes open circuit.


Hope this helps,

Screwy


----------



## contrarian

Thanks guys, have checked the sensor conductors and it is only the wires going into the clamps. I have a mate who has one set up so will see if I can borrow his to test it out. If not I'll go to Jaycar next week and get a resistor to test it with. 

Really appreciate the help with this one so cheers!


----------



## contrarian

Well tried the resistor instead of the sensor, found one in a broken toy in the spirit of DIY thriftiness and still have the same problem so have contacted the seller and will hopefully get a replacement. If not I'll be shelling out another lobster and might order a couple so I have a back up! Thanks again forthe tips.


----------



## chewy

Nothing like a good stc-1000 early in the morning... Nice diagrams...


----------



## stux

Amber Fluid said:


> Here is my 3rd unit. I was wanting one that I could remove all cords from to make it easier to move the keezer.
> 
> I have used an IEC power connection for the power. A recessed speaker connection for the probe and included a 240v power supply that switches on/off via a rocker switch that I use for a fan (or anything else).


Roughly how I did my first Temp Mates, but I used an RCA plug for the sensor. Much prefer your speaker connector, or perhaps a smaller one if I could find it.

The reason I started doing my STCs without the IEC connector, power switch or the removable sensors was because it took so long to do the case/mods etc and when you're dealing with a 20$ piece of electronics I didn't want to spend so much time on the build 

I think if I was to do another I would use the switched skirting board GPOs for the output, probably easier to mount than the flush mount sockets, and you get the switches too. And then perhaps I could use a smaller case.


----------



## Hoptimus Prime

Can you use these with an external SSR to power a 15amp load? I'd like a 3600W element for my HLT.


----------



## beermeupscotty

Hi guys,

I don't have any close sparky mates so I was hoping someone might take a glance at my wiring job and offer their appraisal.

I followed this wiring diagram and I've triple checked that my wiring matches it (with the exception of slight difference in the terminal block):



Edit: This diagram shows power *in* to 6 & 8 and *out* of 5 & 7, whereas it should be the opposite, as explained here and here, and as shown in the wiring diagram in this post. Both configurations work but the latter is technically correct.

My wiring (with highlights for clarity):


----------



## Tahoose

I'm not a sparky but I wired mine up last night going off the other thread, which is pinned in this forum and I think that you might find that your brown cable into ports 6 & 8 should be into 5 & 7 and the outgoing power for your heating should be out of 6 and cooling out of 8

I did a quick test with mine last night, hooked the cooling up to a fan, and used 2 glasses of water for warm and cold temperatures worked fine


----------



## beermeupscotty

Tahoose said:


> I'm not a sparky but I wired mine up last night going off the other thread, which is pinned in this forum and I think that you might find that your brown cable into ports 6 & 8 should be into 5 & 7 and the outgoing power for your heating should be out of 6 and cooling out of 8
> 
> I did a quick test with mine last night, hooked the cooling up to a fan, and used 2 glasses of water for warm and cold temperatures worked fine


Thanks, Tahoose. Congrats on getting yours up and running. I used that thread too (plus a bunch of others - lots of instructions dispersed everywhere) but felt I the wiring diagram I was going off was referenced the most and confirmed as correct.

But ahhh... that wiring diagram is wrong? Anyone else care to chime in here?


----------



## Tahoose

I've just gone back a couple of pages and there are photos that match your diagram and I'm assuming that these are pics of people's working stc-1000's 

So now I'm a little confused... There is the possibility that 5 in and 6 out works and that 6in and 5 our works also... The same for 7&8

All I know is that I went by the other thread and used qld Kevs diagram for a double reference and it works..  I'm only set up for cooling atm, don't need heat for a month or two yet


----------



## beermeupscotty

I was wondering the same thing. I.e. whether in/out direction is not important. I looked up 'relay switch', as someone else explained the ports to work as, but couldn't figure it out. Hoping someone who actually knows how these things work can help us out... I think I'll hold off testing mine until then.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu

Technically 5 & 7 are you AC "in" and 6 & 8 are AC "out " to your fridge/heater.


----------



## Lakey

It doesn't really matter either way should work.


----------



## beermeupscotty

Appreciate the responses guys. Hoping for a slightly more definitive answer before I switch this thing on or re-wire it - anyone else got any comments on the whole 5/7, 6/8 arrangement? Cheers.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu

Ducatiboy stu said:


> Technically 5 & 7 are you AC "in" and 6 & 8 are AC "out " to your fridge/heater.


There is your answer.


----------



## beermeupscotty

Yes, but the 'technically' part suggested, to me, that it might work in another configuration too (i.e. how mine is currently wired). If it's only a technicality and it'll work either way I'd sooner leave it and go with what I've already done. Alternatively, can you explain why that way is technically correct?

It'd also be good to know if that wiring diagram (which I used) is incorrect so I can remove it from my post and possibly try to get the other ones like it removed so people don't have these issues in future.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu

Yes it will work the way you have it wired.

Technically the "in" or live wire should be conected to the switching pole ( the dot that the line is connected to ). The switched pole is the dot that the "out" or switched active is connected to.

It is the way that schematic diagrams are drawn. The drawing on the stc shows a single pole switch. If it was a double pole switch the pic would show another dot above the output and the diag line would conect to either the top or bottom pole


----------



## beermeupscotty

Many thanks for the detailed explanation. I see what you mean about the switching/switched poles on the diagram and why the port layout you've explained it is technically correct. And I also see why the way I've wired it will work. I'm wiring up one more (for another brewing location) which I'll do the technically correct way, as you've explained, but I think I'll leave the one I've done and possibly just put a note about this on it.

Cheers!


----------



## Beer Ninja

wood88 said:


> Yep looks like its all correct to me.
> I changed it a bit as i found the diagram might be a bit confusing for first timers.
> Bit of a quick job so its a bit messy, but everyone should get the point.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> stc_1000.jpg


Thanks to Bindibagi for posting the diagram and even more thanks to wood88 for re-drawing it in a way I could understand better.

Just wired mine up today and I'm so pleased 

I love the way it's used as an independent unit without hardwiring in the fridge or heat belt. Great if the fridge ever fails, just plug in another, no fuss.

Think I might invest in a backup STC 1000 at some point though.


----------



## Yob

Do. I run 5 of these now and my spare runs an oil heater in my bubs room.

Love these units.


----------



## Beer Ninja

Yob said:


> Do. I run 5 of these now and my spare runs an oil heater in my bubs room.
> 
> Love these units.


Pretty versatile when wired this way aren't they. I found other ways of wiring them on the net and youtube, none of them were very precise about the process, when I saw the windibagi/wood88 posts on here I knew it was the way to go for me.

Just looking forward to more consistent results now with my brews and no off flavours (brewing in a tin garage, anything from 25c to 35c) so no more running around trying to cool the fermenter down by whatever means

I favour the dark ales but now I'm also able to have a go at lager for the first time when I choose.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu

I really does worry me when brewers post " have I wired this correctly" or " how do I wire this up " posts. Personaly, if you have to ask questions like that you should not be touching it. The problem is made worse when others offer the wrong advice and justify it by saying " yeah well this worked for me" , and there has been posts made by some I thought where electricians who should know better

Whilst an STC may be an easy device to wire, a little bit of incorrect knowledge is a dangerous thing. Just like a 2nd yr apprentice. I have seen brewers go on to wire up control panels without fully knowing juat what they are doing. Same for fridges. One day someone will get zapped or injured by DIY electricals. 

Whilst doing as much of your brew rig is a good thing, there are some things that should not be done by those with little or no idea. The " I asked about it on the internet" is not going to help when your house burns down or you injure or kill someone. And encouraging people is the worst of all.


----------



## acrow

very true and I'm another one for a 2nd opinion.
I have a sparky next door (although away for a week) but will ask him to check my wiring also.
But in the meantime I wouldn't mind a 2nd opinion from my fellow brewers also.
Under the pinned posting I have put up a photo of my wiring - does it look ok to you? (click on image then next image click the magnifying symbol)
Thanks.


----------



## Ducatiboy stu

I wont say if your wiring is OK, simply because its not something you can do looking at a photo. Bit like asking a mechanic if your car is ok just by showing him a photo.

But you need to fix the cable glands/bushes. They should be screwed tight so the cable cannot be pulled out, and floating terminal blocks are a pet hate for me. Sorry, I am pedantic like that. Was part of my apprentice training.


----------



## acrow

Fair enough, but was really wondering if the wiring looks as if it is wired to correct connections (not so much to whether the wiring is secure or not etc.)

Even the car mechanic can say 'yes the wiring is in the correct terminals, but whether it works or not I don't know".

The cable glands had not been secured at time of photo - thinking if something was 'wrong' I didn't need to undo it all.

I like my work tidy and neat also


----------



## beermeupscotty

Ducatiboy stu said:


> I really does worry me when brewers post " have I wired this correctly" or " how do I wire this up " posts. Personaly, if you have to ask questions like that you should not be touching it. The problem is made worse when others offer the wrong advice and justify it by saying " yeah well this worked for me" , and there has been posts made by some I thought where electricians who should know better
> 
> Whilst an STC may be an easy device to wire, a little bit of incorrect knowledge is a dangerous thing. Just like a 2nd yr apprentice. I have seen brewers go on to wire up control panels without fully knowing juat what they are doing. Same for fridges. One day someone will get zapped or injured by DIY electricals.
> 
> Whilst doing as much of your brew rig is a good thing, there are some things that should not be done by those with little or no idea. The " I asked about it on the internet" is not going to help when your house burns down or you injure or kill someone. And encouraging people is the worst of all.


Fair enough. That's probably a good cautious position to take; but, like you say, the STC _is_ an easy device to wire once you get your head around the wiring diagram/s - even for someone who's never wired before. It's probably not so much that people *need* to ask if they've done it correctly but rather that it's recommended on these boards that people get a second opinion. Plus if many people have done this before - why not check? Even sparkies get it wrong...

Because of its simplicity, plus the fact that most homebrewers like to do it themselves and save a penny, most will not want to pay an electrician or spend extra on a pre-wired unit. Whilst the internet mightn't be the best source of certified information, it is a place where the community can come together and pool resources. When so many people have done this job and have it working, it seems reasonable that we can offer our appraisal with a disclaimer and recommendation that people get it properly looked at or completed by an electrician.


I don't know.. I can see the risk but it just seems very doable to me.


----------



## acrow

Sorry, but I'm double posting this (original in the pinned stc1000),

Just that I would like a 2nd opinion and am not getting anyone to reply.

I'm not asking for anyone to that is fantastic and will work but just asking do the wires look to be in the correct connects (taken from the pictures in the pinned instructions).

As mentioned I have a sparky next door (and away atm) and will be also showing him for his opinion but would like 2 opinions overall.

If I could get some thoughts as I want to get this started this weekend.

Thanks.


----------



## SimoB

looks fine to me


----------



## verysupple

Yup, looks right and reasonably nice and tidy too. Geez I've seen some really dodgy jobs 'round the interwebs. You seem to have the same cable glands and jiffy box as me  . They're a bit more expensive than, say, a lunchbox from the supermarket, but they give me that extra piece of mind. Also they look semi-professional  .

The only thing I'd suggest is using a cable tie or something on the sensor cable to stop you pulling the it too hard and risking the connectors coming loose.


----------



## acrow

Thanks guys, that gives me better piece of mind.
And yes 'verysupple' will put a cable tie on the sensor (although I may a hole small enough to have the cable tightish (but better safe than sorry).
I got mine box and equipment from jaycar - but must say the box only just fit the stc1000 - it fits just right between the corner screw holes with the orange 'supports' pushing up against them.
The cable glands will be finished off like the lower one showing (just didn't 'finish' until a bit of an ok with it).
cheers and appreciate your time.
Geoff


----------



## beermeupscotty

acrow said:


> I got mine box and equipment from jaycar - but must say the box only just fit the stc1000 - it fits just right between the corner screw holes with the orange 'supports' pushing up against them.


I think I bought the same box as you but ended up buying the larger one/s. Too tight.


----------



## sp0rk

Just wondering if anyone has used one of these STCs for a keg fridge before?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-STC-1000-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Sensor-220V-TR-/310873972594?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item4861885f72&_uhb=1
It looks like it can only do heating OR cooling, not both
I figure this might be a good fit for my keezer, as it'll only ever need to cool, not heat


----------



## beermeupscotty

sp0rk said:


> Just wondering if anyone has used one of these STCs for a keg fridge before?
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-STC-1000-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Sensor-220V-TR-/310873972594?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item4861885f72&_uhb=1
> It looks like it can only do heating OR cooling, not both
> I figure this might be a good fit for my keezer, as it'll only ever need to cool, not heat


Saw that a couple weeks ago.. I couldn't tell - not sure what "LOCK SW" (port 5&6) means. It's also 5A, as opposed to 10A, which I guess means a lower maximum power output? Can this lead to a device overdrawing? I think the highest draw I've seen from my fridge is ~350W, but perhaps they're capable of 2400W?

But yeah.. not sure about that one.


----------



## sp0rk

Ahhh, didn't notice the lower amp rating
i might just stop being cheap and buy the usual model that everyone uses


----------



## beermeupscotty

I was pretty tempted by it but reached the same conclusion.


----------



## sp0rk

2 STC-1000's ordered
This is the one I ended up going with http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aquarium-220V-STC-1000-All-Purpose-AU-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Sensor-/360837379326?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item54039574fe&_uhb=1
Was the cheapest one I could see
1 is going into the control box for my new HLT and the other will be controlling my keezer
Haven't decided whether to mount the keezer one on top of the keezer or to cut a hole hole through the access panel for the compressor and mount it through there


----------



## sp0rk

Thought this might interest some people
someone's developed an open source firmware for the STC-1000, which is flashable via arduino
http://hackaday.com/2014/03/15/temperature-controller-gets-open-source-firmware-upgrade/
Still in Beta stage, though

Gives you similar sorts of controls as a PID controller by the looks of it


----------



## Beer Ninja

sp0rk said:


> Thought this might interest some people
> someone's developed an open source firmware for the STC-1000, which is flashable via arduino
> http://hackaday.com/2014/03/15/temperature-controller-gets-open-source-firmware-upgrade/
> Still in Beta stage, though
> 
> Gives you similar sorts of controls as a PID controller by the looks of it


That's really cool, I'll follow the progress of this from it's Beta development on the forum.

Wouldn't it be ironic if the manufacturers of the STC-1000 started selling it with the new Open Source software embedded


----------



## sp0rk

I was looking at getting an arduino uno anyway, so this might make for a cheap controller for a HERMS...


----------



## beermeupscotty

Ripper. Not sure where I'd use it yet but that's pretty sweet.


----------



## malliemcg

Does anyone know if these are available all set up with the 2x standard aussie 240V sockets all set up?


----------



## sp0rk

There are people on ebay that sell them made up from time to time
Or you can buy a premade similar unit from Keg King (or any LHBS that sells keg king gear)
Wiring them is dead easy, TBH
I had both of mine checked over by a sparky mate just to be sure, though)


----------



## panzerd18

Thanks everyone for the information, read through the whole thread and has given me a good idea on how it works.


----------



## Curly79

Gday all. Looking at making a temp controlled fermentation fridge.
STC-1000 sounds like all the rage. What else is required apart from the STC unit and Where's the best place to get the additional plugs and pieces that go with it? Cheers everyone. 



Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Home Brewer


----------



## Moad

jaycar...

jiffy box
cable glands
extension cord
either female power plugs or a 2 gang wall plate
some cable joiner things < technical term

elsewhere...
a sparky mate to check it over


There is another thread on custom firmware to pimp it out too


----------



## BottloBill

Do yourself a favour and look towards buying components from a wholesale lighting and electrical store. I saved myself $20 alone just on the jiffy/project box....got it for $8 and it was weather sealedB)


----------



## panzerd18

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Temperature-Controller-16-Amp-with-Inbuilt-Alarm-Heating-Cooling-Home-Brew-/281136917146?pt=AU_Barware&hash=item417510ea9a

http://youtu.be/5ha5gsI8Gb4


----------



## Curly79

Cheers all


Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Home Brewer


----------



## sp0rk

panzerd18 said:


> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Temperature-Controller-16-Amp-with-Inbuilt-Alarm-Heating-Cooling-Home-Brew-/281136917146?pt=AU_Barware&hash=item417510ea9a
> 
> http://youtu.be/5ha5gsI8Gb4


Note those are 10A sockets and a 10A plug...
NFI if the unit itself can handle 16A or not


----------



## macca05

acrow said:


> Sorry, but I'm double posting this (original in the pinned stc1000),
> 
> Just that I would like a 2nd opinion and am not getting anyone to reply.
> 
> I'm not asking for anyone to that is fantastic and will work but just asking do the wires look to be in the correct connects (taken from the pictures in the pinned instructions).
> 
> As mentioned I have a sparky next door (and away atm) and will be also showing him for his opinion but would like 2 opinions overall.
> 
> If I could get some thoughts as I want to get this started this weekend.
> 
> Thanks.


Mate I know u posted this a while ago but to me your cable glands r the wrong way. The nut should be on the inside and you should tighten the gland onto the shielding not just the 3 exposed cables. And u should not need a cable tie to hold it in place.

Macca


----------



## welly2

Rather than start a new topic, thought I'd add my questions here.

So I've just housed and set up a STC-1000 in my spare fridge (woop woop!):




It's all working. Great. My mate told me that a fermenting fridge was the one thing that really improved the quality of his home brewing.

I've set it to 19C as a tester and I'm just watching it now. When the temperature drops just below 19c, the fridge shuts off as expected. I've set a 3 minute compressor delay time. I'm wondering if setting that to 4 minutes might be a little better because in this heat, it'll be on and off like clockwork. It's pretty much working like this:


Temperature drops to about 18.5C in a few minutes
Fridge shuts off
Temperature rises to around 23C
Three minutes is roughly over, fridge kicks in again
Go to 1
My concern is the fluctuation of temperature. To be fair, I've just thrown the temperature sensor in the fridge as it is and I dare say when it's stuck up against a fermenter, it might be a bit more consistent. Would I be correct in thinking this? Oh, and I meant to ask, is it work getting a heat source or should the ambient temperature more than provide for that?

Cheers,

welly


----------



## Moad

Insulate it with a stubby holder and you'll get better results. I haven't used a thermowell so can't comment on them


----------



## Curly79

I've just set my fridge up also so I'm in the same boat . I was told to put the temp sensor in a mug of water inside the fridge? Makes sense for a more consistent reading. I'm assuming you only need the heat source if the outside temp will be below your 19 d set temp.? I just put my heat pad on the bottom shelf.


----------



## Yob

A cup of water has a significantly different thermal mass to your wort.... 

Measure the brew not the water, also, water isn't changing temperature like your fermenting wort is.

I squeeze mine against the side of the fridge and the side of the FV insulated in a block of Styrofoam with just the probe free to touch the FV


----------



## TheWiggman

welly2, are you saying that inside your fridge it heats up 5°C in three minutes? That's a _very_ rapid change in temp insied an insulated enclosure. Where exactly is your sensor sitting?


----------



## Curly79

The standard black temp sensor that comes with the STC 1000 is submersible isn't it?


----------



## MartinOC

Sure is, but I wouldn't be putting it directly into the wort. As pointed-out previously, the easiest way is to strap it to the side of your FV, covered with some sort of insulation (I use a cut-up stubby holder).


----------



## welly2

TheWiggman said:


> welly2, are you saying that inside your fridge it heats up 5°C in three minutes? That's a _very_ rapid change in temp insied an insulated enclosure. Where exactly is your sensor sitting?


It was a bit of an unscientific test where I just chucked the sensor into the fridge (which is empty) on its own. I'm going to fill up a fermenter with water this weekend, attach the sensor to it as you would do normally and test it a bit more properly.


----------



## Tahoose

Keep in mind that he is in Darwin which is about 36c at this time of the year. 

Bit it does sound a little excessive.


----------



## bluedoors

If anyone is interested another fourm member and mate Mike sent me this shopping list from jaycar to buy kit to wire it up.

1 x 
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HB6012&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=986#1

1m x
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1562&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=995#1

1 x
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP4001

2 x
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4094

1x Cable joiny thing

You could get away with a smaller jiffy box, but i like the space. I'll put up a photo once its all built.


----------



## BottloBill

Currently using the cut up stubbie cooler trick + a standard digital thermometer attach to the side of the fridge using thermo tape. I have noticed during this experiment that the difference in temp between the two is anywhere from 2℃ to 3℃


----------



## welly2

BottloBill said:


> Currently using the cut up stubbie cooler trick + a standard digital thermometer attach to the side of the fridge using thermo tape. I have noticed during this experiment that the difference in temp between the two is anywhere from 2℃ to 3℃


Which one have you found is hotter than the other?


----------



## BottloBill

The warmer temp is from the probe attached to the fridge wall with the brew set at 18℃


----------



## neo__04

Not trying to throw the thread away from the stc 1000. 

But look into Brewpi for your fermentation fridge. Best thing i ever did

Holds to within .1 degree. Very impressive


----------



## ashley_leask

Neo__04 said:


> Not trying to throw the thread away from the stc 1000.
> 
> But look into Brewpi for your fermentation fridge. Best thing i ever did
> 
> Holds to within .1 degree. Very impressive


I looked at that and would have gone that way except for the fact that they have designed the system to have an air heater (light bulb or whatever) in the fridge rather than a heat mat/belt on the fermenter itself which I do now. They warn it doesn't work if the fermenter is heated directly rather than the air in the chamber. Seems like kind of a bass ackwards design assumption to me. Otherwise it looks awesome, I glad wrap and I'd started thinking about how to mount a camera in the fridge for remote visual inspection and everything.


----------



## Beer Ninja

beerdrinkingbob said:


> This diagram made the most sense to me, although diagram is a little on the rough side for some reason I was able to follow it easier.
> 
> and this is the thread
> 
> Good luck mate, it's not hard once you find the right picture that meshes with you brain the best!!


Yeah, that's the diagram that worked for me too


----------



## neo__04

Yeah the brewpi is designed around controlling the air temp in the fridge. Very accurate though.

I use a heat mat in the shelf below the fermentor. 

Just checked the graphs, varied less than .1 degrees in the last 4 days


----------



## MaltyHops

welly2 said:


> welly2, are you saying that inside your fridge it heats up 5°C in three minutes? That's a _very_ rapid change in temp insied an insulated enclosure. Where exactly is your sensor sitting?
> 
> 
> 
> It was a bit of an unscientific test where I just chucked the sensor into the fridge (which is empty) on its own. I'm going to fill up a fermenter with water this weekend, attach the sensor to it as you would do normally and test it a bit more properly.
Click to expand...

Have you checked if there is much of a gap in the fridge door seal due to the the probe cable (assuming you've just closed the fridge door over it) - a small gap can make a big difference on how quickly heat will leak in to the fridge (especially in your environment).

I've made a little foam ramp for surrounding cables passing between the seal and wall of my fridge as shown in the attached pix to give a smooth profile for the fridge seal to go over.

I used scrap nitrile foam to make mine - a bit small and fiddly but I find this makes a big difference to how often the fridge has to cool or turn on the heat belt by sealing off the gaps (even though they're small).



_[zoom]_


----------



## welly2

MaltyHops said:


> Have you checked if there is much of a gap in the fridge door seal due to the the probe cable (assuming you've just closed the fridge door over it) - a small gap can make a big difference on how quickly heat will leak in to the fridge (especially in your environment).
> 
> I've made a little foam ramp for surrounding cables passing between the seal and wall of my fridge as shown in the attached pix to give a smooth profile for the fridge seal to go over.
> 
> I used scrap nitrile foam to make mine - a bit small and fiddly but I find this makes a big difference to how often the fridge has to cool or turn on the heat belt by sealing off the gaps (even though they're small).


I ran a test this weekend with the fermenter full of water and I taped the sensor probe onto the side of the fermenter covered by a bit of cut up stubby holder. It's been rock solid at 19.1C all weekend so I think that's that ticked off the "to do" list.


----------



## takai

Just a heads up for anyone building a controller off one of these. Jaycar have their panel mount sockets for half price at $5, i went and picked up a few today:
15A - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4097
10A - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4095


----------



## Stonemull

Heads up for ebay buyers.
just got shafted on an STC1000 purchase..
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111312364799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

its listed as an STC1000 but photos and provided device are an AT8001. which physically looks pretty damn close but only has a single relay output.
spewin..


----------



## Stonemull

decided to use the damn thing anyway, just cause it can't heat don't mean it ain't useful. just want it to control a fridge in reality.

remind me to take careful note of point 3 in 'matters needing attention' of the instructions.

(word for word)
'warm controls the main engine not to be able to install in has the water drop, the old person, the child tentacle may and the place.'


----------



## anthonyUK

Stonemull said:


> Heads up for ebay buyers.
> just got shafted on an STC1000 purchase..
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111312364799?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
> 
> its listed as an STC1000 but photos and provided device are an AT8001. which physically looks pretty damn close but only has a single relay output.
> spewin..


Ask for a refund as the item is not as described. If you used Paypal you'll have no issue getting your money back.


----------



## yum beer

Contact the seller, probably sent wrong one, these places quite often stock several similar models.


----------



## Stonemull

yum beer said:


> Contact the seller, probably sent wrong one, these places quite often stock several similar models.


a close look at the photos shows its the AT8001, they are simply lieing about what they are selling.
started the email to-fro anyway.
'oh so sorry we send wrong one, please send photo..'


----------



## yum beer

still shows heat and cool, so no mater what they sent wrong item.


----------



## JDW81

Stonemull said:


> (word for word)
> 'warm controls the main engine not to be able to install in has the water drop, the old person, the child tentacle may and the place.'


OT:

My cousin worked for an electrical company many years ago editing all of the "translated" instruction manuals for the various products that come into Australia (teles, stereos, microwaves etc). She still has a book somewhere with all here favourites. 

My favourite was "small children should not be cooked in this appliance, not appropriate appliance for such cooking"

JD


----------



## seamad

JDW81 said:


> OT:
> 
> My cousin worked for an electrical company many years ago editing all of the "translated" instruction manuals for the various products that come into Australia (teles, stereos, microwaves etc). She still has a book somewhere with all here favourites.
> 
> My favourite was "small children should not be cooked in this appliance, not appropriate appliance for such cooking"
> 
> JD


OT, but I'm building a wfo, just thought I might fit my kids in...




Back OT, just found these @ 10 $US
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-STC-1000-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-W-Sensor-AC-220V-/361092319799?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160


----------



## JDW81

seamad said:


> OT, but I'm building a wfo, just thought I might fit my kids in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_3754.jpg
> 
> Back OT, just found these @ 10 $US
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-STC-1000-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-W-Sensor-AC-220V-/361092319799?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160


Now that is a appropriate child cooking appliance. Might have to do one at a time though, looks a bit tight in there.


----------



## Tahoose

$11.60 aus with free postage.

Not expecting to see them for a month, but the seller has mostly positive feedback.


----------



## Yob

bollox and here I am like a mug just payed $14.... spare one and a replacement as the heating relay crapped out on one I was using for the bubs oil heater.. which leads to to a question.

Can the relays be replaced? Not that I know what Im doing or could be arsed, the relay would probably cost as much as the replacement unit..


----------



## takai

Funny you mention that, i just blew the heating relay in mine as well. Seems that the urn draws more than 10A. 

I too would be interested to find out whether you can replace the relays, even though i have a PID coming.


----------



## Moad

A sparky mate uses 240v relays after the stc, couple of bucks to replace but obviously no help now


----------



## takai

Moad said:


> A sparky mate uses 240v relays after the stc, couple of bucks to replace but obviously no help now


Yeah, this is what i have for the PID setup. But im just waiting for the slow boat from China for the new PID setup after the last one got subsumed into a proving chamber when i didnt have the room for 3V.


----------



## jonnir

Just ordered two. Thanks fellas!


----------



## chubbytaxman

seamad said:


> OT, but I'm building a wfo, just thought I might fit my kids in...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_3754.jpg
> 
> Back OT, just found these @ 10 $US
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-STC-1000-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-W-Sensor-AC-220V-/361092319799?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160


Just tried to get on those STC's for $10US ... linky says doesnt exist or nothing found .. :huh:

@jonnir - Looks like you may have gotten the last 2 ... 

chubby


----------



## Pogierob

Link works for me. .


----------



## takai

Works for me too, just ordered another couple.


----------



## chubbytaxman

Finally got on it ...

Ordered a couple ..


----------



## Moad

Are they A_400p?


----------



## chubbytaxman

@Moad - I don't know about A_400p ... but they are STC-1000.

chubby


----------



## chubbytaxman

Gents .... A quick question if I may ....

Looking at a project of a fermentation chamber - with a difference.
I have 2 x bar fridges that I would like to use as part of this.
My question is ....

Can the 2 x bar fridges be plugged into a 4 x plug power board (then this into the cooling side of an STC-1000).
The aim is to have a fridge at either end and fermenters in the middle all enclosed.

View attachment Dual fridge with STC.pdf


Hope you can make sense of the attached .pdf file for reference

Cheers

chubby


----------



## dblunn

FYI
The cheap China based website Banggood has STC-1000 for US$12.99 free postage (That's AU$16.26 today)
http://www.banggood.com/STC-1000-220V-All-Purpose-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Sensor-p-91676.html?utm_design=28&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=Mail_men118_email&utm_campaign=newsletter-emarsys&utm_content=Claire&sc_src=email_1229159&sc_eh=e48e36c0e4d059d71&emst=TferARCPA2_191076_1229159_34

Sorry about the link, I hope it works ok.

To answer an earlier question, yes the relays can be replaced as they are through hole solder mounted on the PCB, at least they are on one I pulled apart some time ago.
Dave


----------



## bronson

built this just now $35 + 20min = 0ne happy brewer


----------



## BottloBill

bronson said:


> built this just now $35 + 20min = 0ne happy brewer
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg


Nice going bronson, only the one plug mount though???


----------



## BottloBill

dblunn said:


> FYI
> The cheap China based website Banggood has STC-1000 for US$12.99 free postage (That's AU$16.26 today)
> http://www.banggood.com/STC-1000-220V-All-Purpose-Digital-Temperature-Controller-Sensor-p-91676.html?utm_design=28&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=Mail_men118_email&utm_campaign=newsletter-emarsys&utm_content=Claire&sc_src=email_1229159&sc_eh=e48e36c0e4d059d71&emst=TferARCPA2_191076_1229159_34
> 
> Sorry about the link, I hope it works ok.
> 
> To answer an earlier question, yes the relays can be replaced as they are through hole solder mounted on the PCB, at least they are on one I pulled apart some time ago.
> Dave


showing price $17.11 now


----------



## bronson

BottloBill said:


> Nice going bronson, only the one plug mount though???


yeah I don't have any thing to heat with atm. and with all the hot we are having I doubt ill need it.
even so another outlet is only $5. thanks


----------



## Beer Ninja

In the recent (now dark old days....) there was the STC 1000) Lots of looking at it, thinking about it, asking questions on here, ordering and waiting for it to arrive ensued. Then the postie delivered it. We all looked at the wiring diagram and came back on here and discussed it. at length. And it was fun. To a point. And well meaning folk posted wiring diagrams, and got torn apart by sparkies (often quite rightly) on safety issues and it all got a bit shit for folks who were desperate to get their STC 1000's up and running - I was one of them. 

And then came an alternative, no safety issues, no worries that your wiring of the STC 1000 might burn your house down with yourself wife and kids.

For a few dollars more it's too f*cking easy.

I'm not affiliated - get it here - if I could do it again this way I woud.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Temperature-Controller-16-Amp-Inbuilt-Alarm-Heating-Cooling-Home-Brew-/281136917146?pt=AU_Barware&hash=item417510ea9a


----------



## beermeupscotty

Beer Ninja said:


> I'm not affiliated - get it here - if I could do it again this way I woud.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Temperature-Controller-16-Amp-Inbuilt-Alarm-Heating-Cooling-Home-Brew-/281136917146?pt=AU_Barware&hash=item417510ea9a


It's fun learning and having a go yourself (although potentially risky, I guess) but I'd be tempted to do this next time too.

!6A... that's just the potential yeah? It'd still work for regular 10A systems?


----------



## Beer Ninja

beermeupscotty said:


> It's fun learning and having a go yourself (although potentially risky, I guess) but I'd be tempted to do this next time too.
> 
> !6A... that's just the potential yeah? It'd still work for regular 10A systems?


Ha Ha here's me offering advice on electrical components whilst under the influence of a larger than usual amount of alcohol. Hic.

I've admired these controllers before but never noticed the ampage. Perhaps someone more experienced could offer advice. (oh, the irony....) 

I did enjoy wiring up my STC 1000 and got a sense of accomplishment from it, although if I hadn't stumbled across a wonderfully simplified diagram on AHB (attached) then I'd still be sat looking at the instructions and scratching my head!


----------



## Beer Ninja

beermeupscotty said:


> It's fun learning and having a go yourself (although potentially risky, I guess) but I'd be tempted to do this next time too.
> 
> !6A... that's just the potential yeah? It'd still work for regular 10A systems?


Ha Ha here's me offering advice on electrical components whilst under the influence of a larger than usual amount of alcohol. Hic.

I've admired these controllers before but never noticed the ampage. Perhaps someone more experienced could offer advice. (oh, the irony....) 

I did enjoy wiring up my STC 1000 and got a sense of accomplishment from it, although if I hadn't stumbled across a wonderfully simplified diagram on AHB (attached) then I'd still be sat looking at the instructions and scratching my head!


----------



## Pogierob

beermeupscotty said:


> It's fun learning and having a go yourself (although potentially risky, I guess) but I'd be tempted to do this next time too.
> 
> !6A... that's just the potential yeah? It'd still work for regular 10A systems?


Yes it still works. You are correct in saying it's the "potential"(maximum). 
When it comes to this sort of thing I like to compare it to a manual car.
Can I do 70km per hour in second gear? 
Should I?
Is 3rd gear more suited?

Something that is rated 16A won't have to work close to its limits and should therefore perform more efficiently and a longer life span...


----------



## TheWiggman

The odd thing about those units is they are supplied with a 10A socket. Anything with a plug that suits should only be able to draw 10A max. As soon as you were to change the socket you're dodgying it up anyway so I'm yet to understand why they're advertised as 16A.


----------



## colvs

Hey guys,

Does this seem a little cheap for a fully wired STC-1000? 

http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=3994&SZIDX=0&CCODE=18701&QOH=22&CATID=311&CLN=1

Seems to be exactly the same product as this one, but at less than half the price :

http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/GYXAYCQR%20heating/7THERMOSTAT+DUAL+AUTO

Seems a little weird that there's such a vast price difference...


----------



## Crakkers

The Brewmart price is reasonable for a wired up/enclosed STC-1000, though you could do it yourself for around half that.
The Grain and Grape price is outrageous!


----------



## Beer Ninja

And an $85 from Country Brewer

http://www.countrybrewer.com.au/products/16-amp-Temperature-Controller-%28Heating-and-Cooling%29.html


----------



## colvs

Cheers for the replies!



Crakkers said:


> The Brewmart price is reasonable for a wired up/enclosed STC-1000, though you could do it yourself for around half that.
> The Grain and Grape price is outrageous!


I just don't trust myself to wire it up, even though it seems pretty simple. 



Beer Ninja said:


> And an $85 from Country Brewer
> 
> http://www.countrybrewer.com.au/products/16-amp-Temperature-Controller-%28Heating-and-Cooling%29.html


I was told the Keg King controllers were inferior in quality to an STC-1000. (funnily enough it was by someone doing a brew demo at Grain and Grape) Maybe I've been misinformed?


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## stux

$70 is a good price for a well wired up STC-1000

I would recommend the STC-1000 over the keg king, even if they were the same price...


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## Exile

I have 2 of the Keg King ones, One for my herms and the other for my temp control on my fridge. When i bought my herms unit I tested both my keg king ones against a glass medical thermometer, and both where spot on.


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## colvs

Thanks for the advice guys. Ended up ordering the STC-1000 from Brewmart.


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## anthonyUK

Source for v1.0 STC-1000 direct from the manufacturer - http://www.aliexpress.com/store/1305777

Details from the STC-1000+ project - https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p#hardware


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## Haciluku

Hi,
Could someone please tell me where to buy the 240v relay. I want to wire them after the stc.
Many thanks.


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## Hassles

Too many discrepancies with regards to STC 1000 wiring diagrams floating about. Found a nice one on the Cooper's forum and found confirmation here which is pleasing. Way way too many abysmal Youtube demos with incredibly shonky solutions - many just gave me the _heebee jeebees_. 

Have just finished my build, into the casing of an old aquarium air-pump. The casing (because it was there and about to be thrown out) saved me a trip to Jaycar, provided limitations a shelf bought jiffy box would not have placed upon me and forced some decision making. The bakelite 3-way terminal block (foreground) was salvaged from an old Argusy aircraft. I chose the P4003 switch / power socket unit because it is fused (which made me a tad more comfortable). Spade terminals used throughout, wire salvaged / stripped from old computer power cables. End of air-pump outlet used to tidy cables (mid ground). I neglected to source and appropriate fuse so haven't tested it yet. It will run a Westinghouse WRM1300WC

happy everything


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## barls

which seller are people buying from atm?


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## Mattrox

barls said:


> which seller are people buying from atm?


Depends if you need to hack it for temperature ramping as per the STC 1000+ project.

If not any eBay seller will do.


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## sponge

Haciluku said:


> Hi,
> Could someone please tell me where to buy the 240v relay. I want to wire them after the stc.
> Many thanks.


Why do you need a 240V relay after the STC? The STC does the switching.


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## Beer Ninja

barls said:


> which seller are people buying from atm?


I've had three from ebay seller 'axeprice' - always reliable, always a good price.


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## Moad

if you want stc 1000+ I purchased here and it was the right version....

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/temperature-controller-STC-1000/2004466302.html


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