# Re-yeasting my Tripel?



## shacked (25/5/16)

I've got a maple syrup Tripel that I pitched at 18C, ramped it to 22-23C over the course of a week, held it there for another few days and left it at ambient temps (~19C) for 2 weeks while I was overseas. I cold crashed and it has been sitting at 1C for 2 weeks. All in all, I think it's been about 6 weeks since I pitched yeast (Third gen WLP530 - what a beast of a yeast that is). It's about 8% ABV, finished dry (1.010 and 85% attenuated) and is seriously delicious out of the fermenter.

My question is around packaging. I'm planning on bulk priming to about 3.5 vols and bottling in champagne bottles. Should I add fresh yeast at the point of bulk priming? If so, how much? I have a pack of Danstar Abbaye or US05 that I can use. I've also got various 2nd and 3rd generations of yeast (002, 001, 530, Notto, Belle Saison).


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## danestead (25/5/16)

I can't really answer your question on whether you should re-yeast or not; however, congrats on making what sounds like a top drop. The tripel I've brewed turned out one of the best brews I've ever done (until the Grolsch style bottles let most of the carbonation go). I did re-yeast, only because I didn't want to risk them not carbing up. They carbed up very quickly and were excellent prior to the carbonation slowly declining. At home I have a document on re-yeasting, in particular the amounts; I'll send it through to you tomorrow. Off the top of my head I remember that it only takes a surprisingly small amount of yeast to carb a bottle; however, Belgian brewers tend to pitch quite a lot more than the minimums required.


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## Black n Tan (25/5/16)

I would pitch fresh active yeast at bottling. I tend to aim for 1-2B/L (as per the recommendation in the book BLAM) and it is best this yeast comes from an active starter so it won't crap itself in the high alcohol environment. So I would make a small starter and add that to the priming bucket.


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## manticle (25/5/16)

I think you'll be fine to just carb as normal.

I've only ever re-seeded beer that sat for a year or more.


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## Brewman_ (25/5/16)

I tend to agree with Manticle... However, I have had this issue with Kolsch yeast.

So yes it can be an issue.

Not sure if it will be an issue with the WLP530? Ask your supplier?

I think it will be OK.

If you do want to re yeast, I would go for Fermentis - S33. Although looking at their website in the Homebrew area they say T58, which for you beer is perfect, not sure about putting that in a lager or a Pils?? Quite strange.

Cheers Steve


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## Alex.Tas (26/5/16)

This is my go to document for working out repriming rates:
https://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf

pretty handy and easy to read format. 

If you still have some healthy 530 i would use that.
I partly agree with Manticle in that it probably doesn't need re seeding, but for a little effort, the potential pitfalls are outweighed by having 23L of flat/undercarbed tripel in bottles.


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## MHB (26/5/16)

I would use S-33, it is recommended as a high alcohol bottling yeast and for restarting stuck ferments, as T-58 but I think if you got any flavour from the bottling yeast that from S-33 would be more appropriate in a triple, T-58 I would use in a Duble or Quad.
Mark


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## danestead (26/5/16)

Alex.Tas said:


> This is my go to document for working out repriming rates:
> https://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf


This is the document I was going to send you.


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## shacked (5/6/16)

I decided to re yeast after having to leave the finished brew for another week. Made a 500ml starter of 530 and decanted about 125ml at highish krausen (probably 6 hours late). Dumped that into my bottling bucket, added 3.7 vols worth of priming sugar and gave it all a gentle stir. 

Here's the finished product:




Thanks for the advice!


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