# getting a 40mm hole into a s/steel keg?



## V-Dawg (18/8/13)

Hi

I want to install a cheap kettle 2KW heat element into my HLT/HERMS for keeping temps; it requires a 40mm hole. My step drill goes up to 20mm only 
Any tips on tools/tricks?

Cheers


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## Fat Bastard (18/8/13)

40mm Carbide Holesaw is ideal, but a normal holesaw will work if you go slow and use lots of lube (like some other things in life)

One of these is probably the easiest if you don't have to buy it yourself! (and don't need an exactly 40mm hole)


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## TidalPete (18/8/13)

V-Dawg said:


> Hi
> 
> I want to install a cheap kettle 2KW heat element into my HLT/HERMS for keeping temps; it requires a 40mm hole. My step drill goes up to 20mm only
> 
> ...


So many people just take the fast (Power tool) option of using hole saws to get a result but in reality with a little patience this can be done much more cheaply & more accurately.
In my experience as a (retired) fitter step drills are only good for soft micro-thin mild steel such as fridges, etc.
Please consider this way around using a hole saw even if it takes a little longer as a the wall of a keggle is far too hard for a step drill.

1 -- Mark out diameter of hole.
2 -- Drill a series of small holes around the inside of the circumference marking & knock out the core.
3 -- File out to the mark (Or sooner) with a suitable half round file to get a nice tight fitting for your element.

This applies for any holes you might like to make in your HLT, MT, kettle or HEX.

Hope this helps?


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## pnorkle (18/8/13)

Bi-Metal hole saw. It works, believe me. Drill the hole very slow speed and before you know it, you have a hole. Use lots of lube.

Edit: pity you don't need 38mm - looking at your profile you live just 'round the corner from me - I could drill it for you.


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## pimpsqueak (18/8/13)

I recently installed an element in my ss urn. I used a 40mm bi-metal holesaw and arbor from bunnings. Went slow and used a bit of rp7 to lubricate it.
Took less than a minute and the pilot bit and holesaw are still razor sharp.

If you're not a fan of holesaws, try a punch instead... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Q-Max-Sheet-Metal-Punch-40mm-Punch-Sheetmetal-/330958782508?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4d0eae402c


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## TidalPete (19/8/13)

Sorry PS but that's not really a cheap alternative to a decent hole saw is it & let's face it, a reasonable quality hole saw + arbour is a bit cheaper than the punch in that link.
I would imagine that if the OP has a step drill that IMHO won't cut thickish ss & is buying a budget element then he's not looking for a $66 solution to drill a hole in a ss keg? 
No arm-wrestle intended. Just my 2 cents but do what you want to do OP. :beer:


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## pimpsqueak (19/8/13)

OP could always shop around...http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Q-Max-Sheet-Metal-Punch-40mm-/190855874696?pt=AU_HandTools&hash=item2c6fe58888


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## pk.sax (19/8/13)

I bought a set of bi-metal holesaws from bunnings recently for about 57 bux + an extra 22mm. Has a 38mm in it, I'd just use a round file to take the extra 1mm off if I were OP - take up pnorkle on his offer, i.e.


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## JDW81 (19/8/13)

Take it to a metal worker. They'll do it for next to nothing, or a case of beer in my case as I needed some welding done as well. $40 for the beer and I got 2 holes drilled and some schmick stainless welding done too.


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## 431neb (19/8/13)

Agree with pimpsqueak.

Back in the day, some of the plumbing stores would hire or lend punches for customers to put holes in sinks and draining boards. I dunno if they still do.

A keg is a little thicker but I imagine a knock-out punch would do it pretty easily. Has anyone done it? I have one in the shed and never thought to use it.


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## V-Dawg (19/8/13)

Thanks all for the good advice.



pnorkle said:


> Bi-Metal hole saw. It works, believe me. Drill the hole very slow speed and before you know it, you have a hole. Use lots of lube.
> 
> Edit: pity you don't need 38mm - looking at your profile you live just 'round the corner from me - I could drill it for you.


This plus file seems to be the best option for me. Might pm you later this week, pnorkle.


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## jimmyjackpot (19/8/13)

431neb said:


> A keg is a little thicker but I imagine a knock-out punch would do it pretty easily. Has anyone done it? I have one in the shed and never thought to use it.


Yes, using a punch worked really well for me. Fast and very clean. I have never used a hole saw or step bit for this purpose so cant compare or comment on using them but would definitely recommend using a punch if you have access to one.


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## spog (19/8/13)

V-Dawg said:


> Hi
> 
> I want to install a cheap kettle 2KW heat element into my HLT/HERMS for keeping temps; it requires a 40mm hole. My step drill goes up to 20mm only
> Any tips on tools/tricks?
> ...


i used a hole saw but used the next size smaller. why?. when drilling into the side of a pot/keggle i found the hole saw wanted to jump around allover the place and would give an irregular sized hole.
use low speed,even pressure,plenty of lube,(oil,grease whatever and clean well after). then using a rounded file tidy the hole getting rid of the burrs ,sharp edges and and shape the hole to suit. slowly,slowly catchy monkey. ...cheers...spog....


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## dblunn (22/8/13)

A good cutting compound for stainless is Rocol RTD, comes in thick oil or grease form. When cutting stainless, firm steady pressure and don't back off because it will stop cutting, rub and work harden the metal.
Another method is to plasma cut the hole, weld on the fitting then clean up the inside with a die grinder.


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## QldKev (22/8/13)

pnorkle said:


> Bi-Metal hole saw. It works, believe me. Drill the hole very slow speed and before you know it, you have a hole. Use lots of lube.
> 
> Edit: pity you don't need 38mm - looking at your profile you live just 'round the corner from me - I could drill it for you.



I'd be taking this generous offer up. A couple of your finest beers in hand and the last of the hole should be pretty easy to file out.


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