# COUNTERFEIT SSR WARNING - CHECK YOUR GEAR!



## NealK

I opened my control box (Mathos controller) this weekend and found that my SSR has melted!





I posted this in the mathos controller thread and Zwitter (genius!) sent a link that showed me that my SSR is actually a counterfeit.

https://ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

This could have been a massive issue if I had not checked this when I did. Any of you guys using FOTEK SSR's I would advise you to check if they are genuine. Mine was a fake and was obviously not rated to what it should be.

Cheers
Neal


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## TheWiggman

I am, and I have had one that melted in similar but not-so-drastic fashion as the above. In fact here's a pic the control box from my gallery -






What do you know? Looks exactly the same as the counterfeit product in the link. Considering the price I paid ($3.21 shipped) I suppose that makes sense. I've since upgraded to 40A and improved the heatsink as I thought that was the issue, but I'll double check tonight to be sure.


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## crowmanz

NealK said:


> I opened my control box (Mathos controller) this weekend and found that my SSR has melted!
> 
> 
> 
> ssr2.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> ssr1.jpg
> 
> I posted this in the mathos controller thread and Zwitter (genius!) sent a link that showed me that my SSR is actually a counterfeit.
> 
> https://ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/
> 
> This could have been a massive issue if I had not checked this when I did. Any of you guys using FOTEK SSR's I would advise you to check if they are genuine. Mine was a fake and was obviously not rated to what it should be.
> 
> Cheers
> Neal


Your melted one actually looks more like the genuine SSR than the counterfeit one


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## NealK

I think I will avoid the FOTEK brand in future just to be sure.


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## Yob

Should chuck the retailer and I link in the retailer warnings thread in the bulk buy section too to cover bases


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## quantum8

NealK said:


> I think I will avoid the FOTEK brand in future just to be sure.


That's exactly what I did when building my brewpi a few years back. Interesting to see this is still an issue.


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## TheWiggman

Crowmanz is right, looks like you have the genuine article. I'd have a solid look at your cooling as SSRs can generate a lot of heat especially if you are pushing them to design limit.


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## NealK

I do agree that mine does look like the genuine one, but have my doubts because I run a 3kw urn which is roughly half of what the SSR is rated. I have found one at RS components that is $28.35. I think I will go for this just to be safe.
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/solid-state-relays/8370720/


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## m3taL

I got a fake one it died in about 15 mins of use have 2x 40a ones that have been in my system running 3.6kw each for 2 years no issues

Jaycar sell them bout $45 bucks a pop but like most jaycar gear is good quality I reckon these would be too


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## Tropico

NealK said:


> I opened my control box (Mathos controller) this weekend and found that my SSR has melted!


Was it still working when it melted?


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## NealK

It was working fine last time I used it, but I didn't want to risk damaging any other components by starting it up after discovering that it was fried.


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## Tropico

I think you have a very good one. Obviously it has become so hot it melted the housing, but continued to work. Can only think that the heat sink did not provide adequate cooling.

If it didn't snap (a flash of light), crackle (electrical sparking noise) and pop (a puff of smoke) then it almost overheated.


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## Benn

Looks like the one I ordered is a fake too, no "made in Taiwan" and no bevelled edges either. 
Mofo's!!


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## TheWiggman

I checked my 40A units and they're basically identical to the linked genuine article. They're DC switched though, but I'd still bet yours is counterfeit. 
Can't believe there're counterfeits out there of Taiwanese products. Where the bloody hell would they be made?


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## Benn

Crazy isn't it,


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## Hpal

Just bought one the other day, fake by the looks of it, sent them an email asking for a refund, we'll see how I go with that!


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## blotto

Nuts, looks like I have 3 of these fake ones.


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## fraser_john

Pretty sure I have some used continental industries 40A or 10A with heatsinks at home that I was trying to sell, see http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/80954-auberins-syl-2362-pid/

I have used these without fault for 16 years.


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## NealK

If you,ve still got the 40a SSR I'll take it off your hands John.


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## BrisBrew

Im looking in to order a SSR real soon along with a PID. Im wondering what are the signs of a fake SSR, or where do i go to find out. On Foteks website their SSR pics dont have made in Taiwan written on them. Are they a Hong Kong company with the .hk?
http://www.fotek.com.hk/page1e.htm

What are the signs its a fake and what are signs its the real SSR?

Cheers


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## NealK

Check the link in the opening post for the description and info.
Personally I have decided to avoid the Fotek brand altogether.


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## spog

Fake.




Real



Comparison 

. 
The bottom RHS of the real deal is circled in red.
Hope this helps.


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## Kev R

I had one melt like that but not as bad, the problem was a lose conection at the ssr


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## BrisBrew

Thanks guys, ill keep all this in mind when i order my SSR and PID


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## takai

Kev R said:


> I had one melt like that but not as bad, the problem was a lose conection at the ssr


Almost any electrical item will melt with a loose connection. A loose connection will induce arcing at high current flow and the arcing will build up carbon on the terminals that will only compound the problem. The current flow through the carbon will generate heat, and that will melt the crap out of almost anything.

We had a Clipsal RCD that melted in our previous rental's switch board due to a loose connection on the input. It doesnt matter how oversized you spec the components to if the connections are loose.


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## spog

I remembered tonight that I bought 4x SSRs about 5 years ago,I've used one in my controller build and the other 3 are in a cupboard.
I've just had a look at them and they are the same as the knockoffs ,actually identical.....bugga !.
I've not had any trouble with the one in my controller heat wise as I have a fan wired in the box so it runs as soon as the unit is switched on. Hopefully I won't have any issues down the track but this topic has been bouncing around in my head since it was posted....whirr,whirr,clickety clunk and the light bulb comes on.
I might order a reputable replacement to be on the safe side.


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## jibba02

Mounting that shit is a fully enclosed plastic enclosure with no heat sink is asking for trouble.


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## Tropico

Heat sink is important, ventilation is important, and equally important is heat transfer compound between SSR and heat sink.


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## Bogan333

Is these Fake?


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## sp0rk

The Fotek is fake, however I think the Inkbird is a genuine one made by Inkbird
Do us a favour and see if you can pop out the little lid that the label sits on, on the Inkbird SSR
If they're completely filled with resin, it's probably a decent unit
I'm planning on buying a couple to tear down and inspect for quality


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## spog

sp0rk said:


> The Fotek is fake, however I think the Inkbird is a genuine one made by Inkbird
> Do us a favour and see if you can pop out the little lid that the label sits on, on the Inkbird SSR
> If they're completely filled with resin, it's probably a decent unit
> I'm planning on buying a couple to tear down and inspect for quality


PM me your address and I'll send you one of the dodgy Foteks I have.


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## takai

Ive been doing a bit more playing with these SSRs, and one of the things that they really dont like is PWM control. Their t^on/t^off dwell time is around 500ms, so PWM control will burn them out. But i havnt had any fail even with 20A running through them in bang-bang mode.


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## NealK

PWM?


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## SBOB

NealK said:


> PWM?


pulse width modulation


> Pulse Width Modulation, or PWM, is a technique for getting analog results with digital means. Digital control is used to create a square wave, a signal switched between on and off. This on-off pattern can simulate voltages in between full on (5 Volts) and off (0 Volts) by changing the portion of the time the signal spends on versus the time that the signal spends off. The duration of "on time" is called the pulse width. To get varying analog values, you change, or modulate, that pulse width. If you repeat this on-off pattern fast enough with an LED for example, the result is as if the signal is a steady voltage between 0 and 5v controlling the brightness of the LED.


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## QldKev

Brewing the other weekend at a mates (not on my system) and noticed a burning smell. All 4 Fotek SSRs are melted. They all have the 45 corner. We noticed the 2 non Fotek SSRs are the only good ones in there.

Who is a decent supplier for SSRs in Australia?


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## Zorco

As a tip-off, I was at the tip the other day and some split system air cons were there, inside were first class Omron SSDs. Always take pliers and screwdrivers with you!

Edit: actually bad advice. There could be a lot of stored energy and it could be dangerous if you're not trained with electricity.


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