# Let's see your fermentation chambers!



## devoutharpist (28/5/19)

Did a search, couldn't find any thread with a collection of peoples' fermentation chambers. Happy to be corrected and send this thread into the void.

I am keen to see what people have for fermenting and temperature control. I had a secondhand fridge for a couple of years, but that one just crapped out. So it's time to get a new one and i would love to see what everyone else is doing. Also keen to see if there is an option i haven't come across yet. 

Anyway, here is mine before it died (barleywine up top, milk stout down bottom)...


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## wide eyed and legless (3/6/19)

devoutharpist said:


> Did a search, couldn't find any thread with a collection of peoples' fermentation chambers. Happy to be corrected and send this thread into the void.
> 
> I am keen to see what people have for fermenting and temperature control. I had a secondhand fridge for a couple of years, but that one just crapped out. So it's time to get a new one and i would love to see what everyone else is doing. Also keen to see if there is an option i haven't come across yet.
> 
> Anyway, here is mine before it died (barleywine up top, milk stout down bottom)...



I have found the purpose built room for continual brewing worked out better than a bank of fridges, and cheap to run.
Temperature control is the most difficult for the home brewer, without a thermowell through which temperature adjustments taking into consideration where the fermentation's exothermic reaction could be logged and the temperature adjusted to keep it constant we are all just winging it.
Dependent on yeast viability, temperature, oxygen level, and yeast strain the internal temperature of the fermenting wort could go up as high as 8 degrees in a 20 litre batch. So I guess we just do the best we can in controlling temperature.


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## The Mack (3/6/19)

Where did you get the 8c number from? I know I am just one data point but I've compared my thermowell to a probe taped to the side (with camping mat over the top of that) and they measured within a degree of each other.. This was across English, American, Belgian ales and a few different lager strains. My Fv's are stainless though so whether that makes a difference?


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## wide eyed and legless (4/6/19)

The Mack said:


> Where did you get the 8c number from? I know I am just one data point but I've compared my thermowell to a probe taped to the side (with camping mat over the top of that) and they measured within a degree of each other.. This was across English, American, Belgian ales and a few different lager strains. My Fv's are stainless though so whether that makes a difference?


It is well covered in the book Brewing Yeast and Fermentation by David Quain and Chris Boulton, it varies also with the ABV the higher the ABV the more energy produced. 
Here is another article from BYO for the home brewer.
https://byo.com/article/controlling-fermentation-temperature-techniques/


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## Dozer71 (4/6/19)

The BYO infers that it is 8c compared to ambient temp - not from the middle of wort to the edge of the wort. It would be an issue if you are just measuring the ambient temp to control the heat of the wort (thermomenter hanging in fridge/closet or even in bottle of water), but if taped and insulated to the FV, will be reasonably close.


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## lost at sea (4/6/19)

crikey, how much do you drink weal?


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## wide eyed and legless (4/6/19)

Dozer71 said:


> The BYO infers that it is 8c compared to ambient temp - not from the middle of wort to the edge of the wort. It would be an issue if you are just measuring the ambient temp to control the heat of the wort (thermomenter hanging in fridge/closet or even in bottle of water), but if taped and insulated to the FV, will be reasonably close.


It was the ambient temperature as against the internal temperature which was suggested. Someone with a plastic fermenter would have a higher reading than a stainless steel fermenter with the thermometer taped to the outside of the vessels because of the thermal conductivity differences.
The thermowell is the best option, especially in my case where the AC is the generator of the heat or cooling but if the tilt thermometer / hydrometer could control the temperature that would be even better.


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## wide eyed and legless (4/6/19)

lost at sea said:


> crikey, how much do you drink weal?


Not as much as I would like.


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## krz (4/6/19)

wide eyed and legless said:


> I have found the purpose built room for continual brewing worked out better than a bank of fridges, and cheap to run.......


Pretty impressive.
I guess you ferment all beers at same temperature?
How do you handle crash cool, etc...?


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## krz (4/6/19)

Heres my setup 












20190604_191903



__ krz
__ 4/6/19



My setup


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## FarsideOfCrazy (4/6/19)

I've read the data on another forum where the thermometer had multiple temp probes that could read temps simultaneously. The difference between the centre of the fermenting wort and the probe taped to the side of the vessel was virtually the same. The experiment was done in a variety of ways and the conclusion was, it made stuff all difference have a thermowell or having the temp probed taped to the side.


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## beer gut (5/6/19)

This is my setup, I’ve got tilt hydrometers in the brew buckets.


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## Cian Doyle (6/6/19)

wide eyed and legless said:


> It was the ambient temperature as against the internal temperature which was suggested. Someone with a plastic fermenter would have a higher reading than a stainless steel fermenter with the thermometer taped to the outside of the vessels because of the thermal conductivity differences.
> The thermowell is the best option, especially in my case where the AC is the generator of the heat or cooling but if the tilt thermometer / hydrometer could control the temperature that would be even better.


I have been reading quite a lot on this and there is a difference between the center of the wort and the outside of the fermenter. Whether it makes any difference I am not sure. I have a PET fermenter and that registers 2 degrees difference just using 2 cheap aquarium thermometers, probably not accurate on the temperature reading but both were calibrated the same. Plastic, is as stated is a poor conductor and a good insulator so I would say the reading would be higher on a HDPE and lower on a stainless steel vessel. I have toyed with the idea of the BrewPi which does control the fridge, and looking at the graphs it can keep the beer at a stable temperature even during high krausen, but is it worth it? 
https://www.brewpi.com/#howitworks


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## SwagBiker (14/6/19)

I made mine from a free gumtree fridge.
I carefully bent the evaporator plate (freezer section) so that it is vertical. This allows me to put a fan up inside it to blow the chilled air downwards. This is quite effective when chilling the wort down pre-pitching. Fan is controlled manually from the STC1000 (using the light function).
I also glued some scrap plywood in as a shelf and as a backing to install the heating element.
The element is from an electric blanket. I just cut it out with scissors and then hot glued it to the plywood. The missus read that electric blankets aren’t safe to keep using after 5 years, so I kept a few when we replaced them.
The temp sensor enters the fermenter via a stainless thermowell that I made from an off cut of stainless tubing. The end has been welded closed. It fits really nicely through the same size grommet as the airlock. So my lids now have two grommets in them.
The STC1000 was just installed in the door. 
I find the solution pretty good for a total cost of $20. But scavenging parts saved heaps.


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## gib8 (14/6/19)

Here is mine:






Best regards from hot Austria
Bruno
travel.projects.at


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## Brewer Tom (16/6/19)

After some recent additions, mainly a CPU fan, here's my ferment fridge.


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## Brewer Tom (16/6/19)

with photo


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## MashBasher (20/6/19)

Aquarium chiller...


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## brewdog35 (21/6/19)

Does the aquarium chiller get the Esky water cold enough for lager temps?


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## MashBasher (22/6/19)

brewdog35 said:


> Does the aquarium chiller get the Esky water cold enough for lager temps?



The aquarium chiller's lowest set point is 3 degrees C. In practice, it chills the esky water down to 2.7. It is a 1/4 hp unit, massively overrated for that piddly little esky.

The chronical is loaded with a 45 litre batch. Coldest the system will take that down to is about 6 degrees, depending on ambient. This setup is not optimised - haven't even lagged the lines. Just basically threw it together when I found a cheap chiller on eBay. (Got sick of changing ice water bottles!)

It could easily achieve lager ferment temps in the 9 degree range over summer. But I live in Melbourne, where as I write it is currently 11 degrees in my garage. It's easier (and cheaper) to let the seasons do all the heavy lifting, and brew my Pils in winter...

Main purpose of this setup was to be able to keep brewing ales over summer. Couldn't be happier with the way it lets me do that.


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## brewdog35 (22/6/19)

Cheers. Thanks for the information, I am also tired of changing water bottles in my esky for my brew bucket fts system.


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## citizensnips (24/6/19)

Finally got round to going big at home. 14 Gal Chronical, It's a thing of beauty.


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## Daveykyevad (25/6/19)

beer gut said:


> This is my setup, I’ve got tilt hydrometers in the brew buckets.View attachment 115796


What size is your fridge? I have 2 brewbuckets but am hesitant to get a fridge as internal dimensions aren't readily provided. I've got my eye on a 243 L Hisense single door fridge that might be up to the job.


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## peterlonz (25/6/19)

I have two fridges in use for brewing already.& I'm forced to use an insulated jacket cooled with ice bottles to control fermentation. Need a bigger house/garage obviously!


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## beer gut (25/6/19)

Daveykyevad said:


> What size is your fridge? I have 2 brewbuckets but am hesitant to get a fridge as internal dimensions aren't readily provided. I've got my eye on a 243 L Hisense single door fridge that might be up to the job.








I picked it up on facebook marketplace for $150.
It’s about 1695mm tall 650mm D x 640mm W.
I took my measuring tape along to make sure that I could get 2 fermenters in it, before I had the brew buckets.


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## MashBasher (27/6/19)

And this, my friends, is what all the well dressed plastic fermenters are wearing this winter.


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## Timbo (27/6/19)

Hacked bar fridge, didn’t have to mess with chiller plate from freezer, everything just fits!


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## devoutharpist (24/9/19)

thread necromancy for this question, those of you that haven't drilled into your fridge to pass the wiring through... did you make any incision in the seal, or does the door just close over it okay?


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## beer gut (24/9/19)

devoutharpist said:


> thread necromancy for this question, those of you that haven't drilled into your fridge to pass the wiring through... did you make any incision in the seal, or does the door just close over it okay?




My fridge door just closes over the inkbird probe wire and my heating belt cable. The size of the gap is small and I don’t think it’s having a big impact on the overall temperature and efficiency.


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## Mall (24/9/19)




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## stux (24/9/19)

Mall said:


> View attachment 116579


Like the calibrated filling system


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## ben lyne (25/9/19)

I love the use of the scales to gauge the amount kegged! What a great idea!


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## Raillz (10/10/19)

What are the pros and cons of Plastic vs SS fermentation vessels. I'm temp controlling in Plastic at the moment


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## Truman42 (17/10/19)

Raillz said:


> What are the pros and cons of Plastic vs SS fermentation vessels. I'm temp controlling in Plastic at the moment


SS fermenters are

Easier to clean
Sturdier and last longer
SS doesnt scratch as easy as plastic can.
SS doesnt end up with odours from hops etc like plastic does.
Only down side to SS fermenters is that they are more expensive initially (But will outlast buying 1-2 plastic fermenters a year)


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## Truman42 (17/10/19)

devoutharpist said:


> Did a search, couldn't find any thread with a collection of peoples' fermentation chambers. Happy to be corrected and send this thread into the void.
> 
> I am keen to see what people have for fermenting and temperature control. I had a secondhand fridge for a couple of years, but that one just crapped out. So it's time to get a new one and i would love to see what everyone else is doing. Also keen to see if there is an option i haven't come across yet.
> 
> Anyway, here is mine before it died (barleywine up top, milk stout down bottom)...


Whats the light down the bottom for? heat?


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## Frothy Boi (23/10/19)

Not the prettiest fermfridge around...





But it's what's on the inside that counts.





25w reptile heat lamp does the job for the heating side.

This fridge is at least 25 years old, I can remember wayback when I needed to grab a chair from the dining room so I could pilfer coins from the change jar on top of the fridge.After this batch is done I will reward the old girl with a sand and coat of paint.


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## Reg Holt (23/10/19)

Frothy Boi said:


> Not the prettiest fermfridge around...
> View attachment 116788
> 
> 
> ...


I like the pressure relief, is that a set pressure?


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## Frothy Boi (23/10/19)

Reg Holt said:


> I like the pressure relief, is that a set pressure?


Just a standard check valve, gas goes out, gas doesn't go in. 
It does hold a little bit of pressure but it's negligible.


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## Malted Mick (29/10/19)

I am a new member/brewer starting straight in at the deep end with a BIAB system. I have just set up my Fermenter/Kegerator from information on this forum. The Fermenter chamber is a 70L esky with a simple chilled water exchanger and heat pad. The exchanger and lines are made from 13mm irrigation poly pipe. The Kegerator is a F&P 164L freezer. which holds the water resevoir and a submersible fountain pump to circulate the chilled water through the exchanger. Each unit is contolled by its own hard wired STC-1000. It is working exceptionally well. I ran all the lines and wiring through the top edge of the freezer where their is only insulation. To finish it off I am going to insulate the feed and return lines between the freezer and esky. Additionally I have decided to make the pump power lead. heat pad power lead, and water lines detachable for sevicing or quick removal. This only involves male and female power plugs and push on hose connectors.


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## Malted Mick (8/3/20)

Lesson learned #1 temperature control during fermentation is critical!
My original set up was about having a small footprint and using a converted chest freezer and 70lt esky as a fermentation chamber. The Mk1 water cooled Fermenter Chamber pictured in the previous post could not handle the warmer weather. I did not understand the exothermic reaction during fermentation and had several runaway temperature excusions into the high twenties. Damm! Time for the Mk2 set up. I was lucky to pick up a free great working fridge on the kerb outside some units and fitted a STC1000. It has allowed me to use a PET fermenter and spunding valve inside the fridge which holds at a constant 18C & 5 PSI. The clear fermenter is great as I can watch the yeast activity and now have a better understanding of the importance of healthy yeast. The beer quality has improved to the next level. All was not lost on the previous set up as I sold 70lt esky and now use the circulation/fountain pump to run chilled water through my wort chiller coil. The space where the old chamber was is now used for storage.


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## trenta (9/6/22)

Firing up an old thread. Those that use old fridges do you just run the cabling through the door? Does this affect the door sealing correctly?


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## philrob (9/6/22)

My 25 years old fridge has just gone to a council cleanup, prior to a move to Brisbane. 
I used a Tempmate and just ran the sensor cable over the door seal, and I had the sensor fit into foam taped to the side of the fermenter. Did the same with the previous fermentation fridge until it died about 10 years ago.
Worked fine for me for over the last 16 years or so.


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## Hangover68 (9/6/22)

trenta said:


> Firing up an old thread. Those that use old fridges do you just run the cabling through the door? Does this affect the door sealing correctly?


Depends on the cable size, small 2 core cable usually fits and door closes as normal, 3 core may need a nic in the seal or something heavy pushed against it to keep it closed.


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## NattyJ (10/6/22)

trenta said:


> Firing up an old thread. Those that use old fridges do you just run the cabling through the door? Does this affect the door sealing correctly?


Yeah 2 x fridges for 2 x 30l allrounders from KL.
1 x temp probe and 1 x heat belt power cable in each fridge just with door seal. No cuts no holes etc. Never and issue. 2 years.


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## trenta (10/6/22)

NattyJ said:


> Yeah 2 x fridges for 2 x 30l allrounders from KL.
> 1 x temp probe and 1 x heat belt power cable in each fridge just with door seal. No cuts no holes etc. Never and issue. 2 years.


That's the only cabling I'll be running through at this stage


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