# Help With Digital Thermostat And Fridge Dilemma



## rendo

Hello All,

I have a dilemma, (I am not an alcoholic) I have some refridgeration/thermostat decisions to make and I am seeking the infinite wisdom of the AHB group (especially LethalCorpse).

I was given a vintec temp controlled wine fridge a few weeks back. 5deg to 18deg. SWEET HEY...Well not exactly, as I found. Two problems: 

1.Firstly take a look at the pic, It is a 2 compartment wine fridge, so it has that dirty great big permanent (well...kinda) shelf in the middle. Fermenter wont fit! 


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2. The fridge doesnt work properly. By this I mean the top compartment is showing EE (second E is a reverse E) so it isnt getting a temp reading, which means the fridge/therm doesnt know what temp it is, hence the compressor doesnt start. So I dont really know if the compressor is working, but I am pretty sure it does. I have pulled the electrics apart and replaced the temp sensor probe, that didnt fix it. (and I was convinced it was going to be the temp sensor probe). I wish I new the error codes of the Vintec fridges.

Whilst trying to fix #2, I figured out that I can take that middle shelf out, solving problem #1, if I really want to...so lets not worry about that for now. 

Now, problem#2. It just so happens that this morning I ordered a digital thermostat from ebay. I am intending to make a "fridgemate" as per the many other discussions in AHB, essentially an extension lead which has a temp controlled 'switch' which the fridge plugs into. I have been on the lookout for a donor fridge or a cheapy on ebay. 

Then I got thinking.... I am pretty sure the Vintec compressor works. I took a look at the wiring diag of the fridge and it refers to the elec display as the thermostat, essentially it is. SO I thought, why dont I wire up the digital thermo I have ordered from ebay to take the place of the existing thermostat and power the compressor that way. Properly and safely done, of course. (very fussy about that).

Would that work? (assuming the compressor is fine). Is there any problems that some of you can see? I am willing to give it a go. Attached are some pics. 

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Essentially my plan (from a wiring diagram perspective) is to remove the current thermostat from powering the compressor. Then power it with the new thermostat. Also, keep the existing electrics/fans running whilst the new thermostat is working (easy done). Remove the dirty big shelf in the middle so I can fit my fermentor in.

(I have thought of calling Vintec to get it repaired. Will probably cost a bomb. The fridge is worth well over $1000 brand new). Then once repaired, sell it on ebay, I should get a few hundred for it. These $$'s could then fund a bigger fridge, which I can make a fridgemate for.....but it just wouldnt be as fun. Will call Vintec tomorrow, but I am keen on the plan above.

There....I am out of breath...


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## rendo

Hello All,

I have an update. I called Vintec. The error code on the fridge is E3, not a E followed by a reverse E. 

So E3 means a disconnected evaporator sensor. Apparently E4 is a faulty evap sensor. I have checked and it isnt disconnected. However I am going to Vintec tomorrow and getting a spare evap sensor so I can replace it just to see if it is faulty. 

If that doesnt work then its back to my other plan of using the dig thermostat of ebay. However if I can get the fridge up and running the way it is, then it will sell quite nicely on ebay and make someone pretty happy as it is in really good nick.

Any thoughts on the evap sensor? Is that essentially the same as a temp sensor? Anyway...until tomorrow...

Adam



rendo said:


> Hello All,
> 
> 2. The fridge doesnt work properly. By this I mean the top compartment is showing EE (second E is a reverse E) so it isnt getting a temp reading, which means the fridge/therm doesnt know what temp it is, hence the compressor doesnt start. So I dont really know if the compressor is working, but I am pretty sure it does. I have pulled the electrics apart and replaced the temp sensor probe, that didnt fix it. (and I was convinced it was going to be the temp sensor probe). I wish I new the error codes of the Vintec fridges.
> 
> Essentially my plan (from a wiring diagram perspective) is to remove the current thermostat from powering the compressor. Then power it with the new thermostat. Also, keep the existing electrics/fans running whilst the new thermostat is working (easy done). Remove the dirty big shelf in the middle so I can fit my fermentor in.
> 
> (I have thought of calling Vintec to get it repaired. Will probably cost a bomb. The fridge is worth well over $1000 brand new). Then once repaired, sell it on ebay, I should get a few hundred for it. These $$'s could then fund a bigger fridge, which I can make a fridgemate for.....but it just wouldnt be as fun. Will call Vintec tomorrow, but I am keen on the plan above.
> 
> There....I am out of breath...


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## LethalCorpse

I was going to point out that a backwards E is usually a 3. You'll probably want to probe the connections of that evap sensor to ensure it's not broken somewhere you can't see it. It might be a break inside the controller, would definitely pay to crack it open and have a poke. It's a bit hard to tell with the size of that wiring diagram (bigger pics dude!) but I gather from the user's guide that the evap sensor is either a humidity sensor inside the cabinet or a water sensor in the drip tray. Hopefully it will just be a faulty sensor and replacing it will work first time.

As far as removing the middle shelf goes, that should be fine PROVIDED it's not full of condenser coils. If it is, you're flat out of luck - there's no way you're going to be able to modify it safely. It will probably be full of wires, which be okay as long as you terminate them properly.

BTW, RE your PM, I'm not a spark either, I'm a computer systems engineer same as you. I've just spent a lot of time working with mains, and have a big issue with safety in amateur wiring.


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## rendo

Hi LC, 

Thanks so much for your reply. Provides me with some much needed sanity 

I have included bigger pics of: 1. Wiring Diagram, 2. Drip tray 3. Circuit board.

Just in case you want to take a look 

The middle shelf is just wires thank goodness. I have figured out how to get it all out. Was thinking it would be best to remove all the wiring and terminate it properly too. 

For now the good news is that I am getting a new evap sensor tomorrow (i hope) to test it out, from vintec. They have been very good. Once I got speaking to a tech, things started to tick. He says that an E4 error would be present if there was a break or short with the sensor and that E3 is specifically for a disconnection, but all that doesnt quite add up to me. So I said, lets try replace the sensor anyway. He said that's what he'd do too, just to be sure. 

Also should I put some water in the drip tray??? no idea what that would do. I couldnt see a sensor in the drip tray. I am thinking that the red wired connector on the bottom of the circuit board (X11) is the evap sensor. Unless the one to the right of it is? X9 PTC...but I reckon that is the power for the heating element in the drip tray? What do u reckon?

Looks like I could get this working after all. Might have myself a nice wine fridge (pok could be a tad jealous...but I might sell it to fund a brewing fridge, once I am sure it is 100% working with no problems etc, will let it run for a month or so)






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Thanks again, you've helped me a lot!


LethalCorpse said:


> I was going to point out that a backwards E is usually a 3. You'll probably want to probe the connections of that evap sensor to ensure it's not broken somewhere you can't see it. It might be a break inside the controller, would definitely pay to crack it open and have a poke. It's a bit hard to tell with the size of that wiring diagram (bigger pics dude!) but I gather from the user's guide that the evap sensor is either a humidity sensor inside the cabinet or a water sensor in the drip tray. Hopefully it will just be a faulty sensor and replacing it will work first time.
> 
> As far as removing the middle shelf goes, that should be fine PROVIDED it's not full of condenser coils. If it is, you're flat out of luck - there's no way you're going to be able to modify it safely. It will probably be full of wires, which be okay as long as you terminate them properly.
> 
> BTW, RE your PM, I'm not a spark either, I'm a computer systems engineer same as you. I've just spent a lot of time working with mains, and have a big issue with safety in amateur wiring.


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## rendo

Hi LC,

Also, after looking at the wiring diag again, since reading your email. you can see where the temp sensors are on the diagram, marked 'sensor', the evap sensor looks like it is 'in-line' with the power for the PTC heater? Is this the way that you read it?

Maybe the sensor is some where along the positive wire of the PTC heater? I am going to check that drip tray out again I think....


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## LethalCorpse

It will fill the drip tray itself with the condensation it produces, but you can put some water in there without upsetting it. You'll probably want to come up with a way to disable the evap circuit, or rather ensure it vents to air instead of the cabinet - humidity is desirable for wine, not for fermenting beer.


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## rendo

put some water in there, just for fun and nothing. Anyway.

Yes disabling the evap would be great, but I reckon the logic in the circuits has a checking routine to ensure the evap is up and running and/or disconnected. Hence the current situation I am in 

So i doubt there is a way to turn it off, without being able to reprogram the board, which we know aint reasonably possible.

So, that leads me full circle to my other plan of ditching the current thermostat all together and powering the compressor off the digital thermostat I bought off ebay. Sounds like a plan? Do you think that would work?? It would mean the 2-3 fans inside the fridge wont be powered, unless I wired up some 12VDC power for them maybe, but its probably not needed. 

I guess what i dont know about fridges is, "If I did run the compressor off the ebay digital thermostat, then will the fridge function fine? i.e are there any other components that really need power for the fridge to function and/or not fail? Or is the compressor good enough?"

Thanks again, hope you can shed some thoughts on using the dig thermostat from ebay  I should be a fridge tech, this is fun  Will get bored too quickly I think....



LethalCorpse said:


> It will fill the drip tray itself with the condensation it produces, but you can put some water in there without upsetting it. You'll probably want to come up with a way to disable the evap circuit, or rather ensure it vents to air instead of the cabinet - humidity is desirable for wine, not for fermenting beer.


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## rendo

GOOD NEWS GUYS,

I have fixed the fridge. It was the evap sensor after all. Very lucky.

It was a real bugger to pull apart, had the whole thing in bits nearly...anyway, its all good. Going to let it run for a few weeks and see if I keep it or sell it so I can fund a fermentation fridge. 

Thanks especially to LC.....you really helped me a lot!

Happy Rendo


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## LethalCorpse

Top stuff, mate, well done!

I didn't realise earlier that the "shelf" in question is actualy the controller. It could still be removed and mounted at the top of the enclosure if you could comfortably (and, of course, safely) extend all of the wires going into it. Shouldn't be too difficult, and a few conduits would make if fairly neat. As for the humidity, if it couldn't be designed out you could happily ignore it. Humidity would only be a problem for mould growth, which you could keep on top of. If it runs fine when it's dry, you could just divert the condensate to a drain or something. Otherwise, as someone else suggested you could just flog it on fleabay for (I imagine) a fair bit more than you paid for it, and pick up a second hand fridge fairly cheaply. You could also just keep it for storing wine of course, but wine just takes away space, time, and brain cells that could better be devoted to brewing and drinking beer.


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