# Coopers Canadian Blonde



## timryan (20/1/11)

So i have decided to brew a coopers canadian blonde... I was just going to buy the kit and brew it with a coopers brew enhancer.. Its easy for me to get to a kmart to pick up the stuff and its a bit of a drive to a brew house... which enhancer should i get? cheers tim


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## _HOME_BREW_WALLACE_ (20/1/11)

just the BE2 for memory....... and if you have any hops available, 9g cascade @ 15min, 9g cascade at 5min. cant remember the amount of tuimes i have done this brew...... delicious :icon_drool2: .


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## beerdrinkingbob (20/1/11)

one of the brew club boys who still dabbles with kits uses BE2, tasted a brew at the last meeting and it was pretty tasty, ++ for DU99. 

After some discussion 10 grams of something nice, maybe cascade would have really finished the brew off.


Edit: Yes yes too slow


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## timryan (20/1/11)

Cheers Fella might have to pick a kit up in the next few days... when you add hops is it just throw into the fermenter when everything else is added?


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## The Giant (20/1/11)

I believe BE1 is the recommended booster to go with it, it should say on the side of the can if you have it handy. 

I just did a cooper blonde with be1, strongly recommend you dry hop about 25g of cascade hops on day 4 or 5 for about 3-4 days. Will make a beautiful brew!!


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## Bribie G (20/1/11)

You could also consider using US-05 yeast that will give a clean finish.


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## timryan (20/1/11)

The Giant said:


> I just did a cooper blonde with be1, strongly recommend you dry hop about 25g of cascade hops on day 4 or 5 for about 3-4 days. Will make a beautiful brew!!



Would you just drop it in on that day? IM only new and this will be my second beer.. do you leave them in aim to place them in the tank when your beer will be finished in about 3 -4 days?


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## timryan (20/1/11)

Does anyone have a good site where they buy there hops and yeast of? I would love to get to the brew houses but just can never make it...


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## DU99 (20/1/11)

Tim,you just drop them in the fermenter,on the day suggested,when it finishes ,you just bottle..and wait and the can does tell you what BE you need..if you need hops i have some,or either its ballarat or sunbury,or G&G


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## timryan (20/1/11)

it is idiot proof haha??? nar are all the instructions written on the packet? and how much do you used steve? do the hops dissolve?


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## DU99 (20/1/11)

yes tim they do..i am like you only learning also..as bob said i am still doing kits..10grams when do my next one


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## The Giant (20/1/11)

timryan said:


> Would you just drop it in on that day? IM only new and this will be my second beer.. do you leave them in aim to place them in the tank when your beer will be finished in about 3 -4 days?



Its best to dry hop after the initial fermentation so prob day 4-5. I did mine on day 5 after pitching the yeast. Leave them in for no more than 3-4 days because any longer apparantly can lead to grassiness in the beer. U dont take them out, just plan to bottle after they have been in there for 3-4 days. So from initially pitching the yeast and dry hopping on day 5 u should be bottling around day 8-9.

I strongly recommend sanitising an old stocking and putting the hops in the stocking and then dropping in the fermenter. Alternatively u can use hops bags. Either way dont just chuck them in as u will have a heap of floaties. They dont sink to the bottom and using finings doensnt help either from experience.


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## The Giant (20/1/11)

timryan said:


> Does anyone have a good site where they buy there hops and yeast of? I would love to get to the brew houses but just can never make it...


Check out the sponsors links up top, craftbrewer have some good stuff i have found



DU99 said:


> yes tim they do..i am like you only learning also..as bob said i am still doing kits..10grams when do my next one


10 grams is to small, work on 1g per 1 litre of brew. So for a 23l batch i do about 25g if dry hopping


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## mwd (20/1/11)

You should only get floaters if you are using hop flowers, the pellets just break up into very small particles which sink to the bottom and stay put after a few days. Cannot say I have every had a problem with dry hopping pellets but it is easy enough to put them in a mesh bag or teaball to be sure. Rule of thumb is 1g hops for 1 litre beer.


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## DU99 (20/1/11)

FYI
i know the rule of thumb with hops,but it was discussed with few fellow brewers at club meeting..just to see how it goes..considering morgans hop bags are only 12g


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## going down a hill (22/1/11)

My fermenter has been unchained to make a new brew and this thread has inspired me to give Coopers Blonde a crack. I have a few questions about ingredients that have come up from this thread. 

1. It states on the kit that you should use BE1 in the mix. From what I have gathered from this post - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry727878 Brew Enhancer 1 = 60% Dextrose + 40% Maltodextrin that means no LDM. If I used 500g LDM, 500g Dex and 200g MD, would that be better than 600g dex/ 400g MD? That would also bring the OG and FG up? I like Malt, it has as done me well so far. Is it part of this blond beer to be that thin?

2. Adding hops. After reading this thread and the hops section on on howtobrew.com I went out and bought 25g of Cascade and I want to get that citrusy/spicy flavour going, should I do 12g finishing and 13g dry hop with 3-4 days before bottling? Or should I dry hop the whole lot? I also have 25g of Czech Saaz, I think Ill leave them in the fridge; I hop at a time for me.

3. I bought us-05 yeast for this kit and the hbs guy told me to pitch at 24 deg, how long do I leave it at this temp before bringing it down to 20ish deg.

Cheers.


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## DU99 (22/1/11)

i am going to put mine 5 days after i put frementer,i did some reading about hops some the types you get..liked the citra hop might get a pack next time at the LHBS


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## timryan (22/1/11)

Would it make a big difference to the beer if you used BE1 and included 500gm of LDM? and what is the difference between coopers BE1 and there brewing sugars mixture both state they contain dextrose and maltodextrin?


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## DU99 (22/1/11)

Tim its your choice,you cant ruin it..BE1 is only a recommendation by "Cooper's"...


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## timryan (22/1/11)

with the extra 500gms of LDM improve the flavour? i guess if im using BE2 then it would already included some LDM so added more could only enhance the flavour? am i wrong in thinking this is how it would work?


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## mwd (22/1/11)

going down a hill said:


> My fermenter has been unchained to make a new brew and this thread has inspired me to give Coopers Blonde a crack. I have a few questions about ingredients that have come up from this thread.
> 
> 1. It states on the kit that you should use BE1 in the mix. From what I have gathered from this post - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry727878 Brew Enhancer 1 = 60% Dextrose + 40% Maltodextrin that means no LDM. If I used 500g LDM, 500g Dex and 200g MD, would that be better than 600g dex/ 400g MD? That would also bring the OG and FG up? I like Malt, it has as done me well so far. Is it part of this blond beer to be that thin?
> 
> ...



1) Canadian blonde beer is not meant to have much body that is why they recommend BE1. 500g of DME will give you a bit more body and definitely worth adding IMO. Use the BE1 in addition won't do any harm, will push up the OG and FG a bit I would expect a FG of around 1.015 approx.

2) I would not dry hop all the Cascade you may get a load of grassiness. I would either make a hop tea with it and add after about 3 days or even do a short boil with 200g DME+2L water and boil all the Cascade for 5 or 10 minutes that should give a citrusy hop hit. Leave the Czech Saaz for another brew.

3) If you pitch the yeast at 24C just allow it to come down slowly to 18C then you will not shock the yeast and the slightly warmer temperature will ensure it gets off to a good start while it multiplys.

Should be quite a nice brew when finished.


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## timryan (22/1/11)

is DME the same as LDM?


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## mwd (22/1/11)

timryan said:


> is DME the same as LDM?



probably Dried Malt Extract (light for use in pale beers)Article about abbreviations


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## going down a hill (22/1/11)

Tropical_Brews said:


> 1) Canadian blonde beer is not meant to have much body that is why they recommend BE1. 500g of DME will give you a bit more body and definitely worth adding IMO. Use the BE1 in addition won't do any harm, will push up the OG and FG a bit I would expect a FG of around 1.015 approx.
> 
> 2) I would not dry hop all the Cascade you may get a load of grassiness. I would either make a hop tea with it and add after about 3 days or even do a short boil with 200g DME+2L water and boil all the Cascade for 5 or 10 minutes that should give a citrusy hop hit. Leave the Czech Saaz for another brew.
> 
> ...



That's all my niggling questions answered.

I'll charge my first glass of this beer to the sky in honour of your name.

Cheers


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## timryan (22/1/11)

so has to do with colour of the beer not Acl content?


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## DU99 (22/1/11)

its straw colour,remember the one i gave you tim..thats the colour


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## The Giant (22/1/11)

going down a hill said:


> My fermenter has been unchained to make a new brew and this thread has inspired me to give Coopers Blonde a crack. I have a few questions about ingredients that have come up from this thread.
> 
> 1. It states on the kit that you should use BE1 in the mix. From what I have gathered from this post - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry727878 "Brew Enhancer 1 = 60% Dextrose + 40% Maltodextrin" that means no LDM. If I used 500g LDM, 500g Dex and 200g MD, would that be better than 600g dex/ 400g MD? That would also bring the OG and FG up? I like Malt, it has as done me well so far. Is it part of this blond beer to be that thin?
> 
> ...



1. You can do what ever you want, BE1 is just a suggestion, Blonde beers are typcally lightish, but i've found they are really a great base to add flavour to, cause they are light you can really taste the notes of certain hops etc. When i did mine i added extra dextrose to bring the OG up so i would say go for it. Will give it some nice body

2. I dry hopped 25g of cascade on day 5 and left for 4 days, didnt have any grassiness and was extremely happy with the flavours it imparted on the beer. just keep taking samples every day whilst dry hopping just so u can note the change in flavours. Also make sure u use a hop bag to avoid floaties

3. i personally have used american ale yeast which is similar, i also get down to 20 pitch yeast and maintain at 20 for lenght of the brew


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## going down a hill (22/1/11)

timryan said:


> is DME the same as LDM?



LDM was meant to be an abbreviation of light dry malt.




The Giant said:


> 2. I dry hopped 25g of cascade on day 5 and left for 4 days, didnt have any grassiness and was extremely happy with the flavours it imparted on the beer. just keep taking samples every day whilst dry hopping just so u can note the change in flavours. Also make sure u use a hop bag to avoid floaties



That is a fantastic way of dry hopping and knowing when the beer is ready, if the FG is stable. I'm not big into the idea of having a grassy flavoured beer. I'll be using that method for sure.

In regards to the malt, I wasn't sure if the malt would ruin the blondes overall taste. When has malt ever been a bad thing? 

Cheers.


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## timryan (22/1/11)

Yer i knew it was light dry malt just wasn't sure if it was the dried malt extract... would it be more beneficial to use a BE1 and add 500grams of LDM or just use BE2.. Thinking i might get on it tonight and start brewing..


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## mwd (22/1/11)

If you look up dryhopping you will find it is used more for aroma than flavour. Boiling between 20minutes and 0 minutes gives flavour with only minimum increase in bitterness.

This hop utilisation by John Palmer gives you the lowdown


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## timryan (22/1/11)

i think i might use a BE1 and included 500grams of LDM and the 1.7kg kit .. will this give me a beer of about 4.5%


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## mwd (22/1/11)

timryan said:


> i think i might use a BE1 and included 500grams of LDM and the 1.7kg kit .. will this give me a beer of about 4.5%



Sorry misread the post and so deleted it. If you have the BE2 use that with your malt extract then you should get a much better bodied beer and higher alcohol.

Don't have Ian's excel worksheet handy to run the numbers.

P.S. you can take my ideas with a pinch of salt because I like good big bodied beers not these low hopped watery lawnmower lagers.


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## DU99 (22/1/11)

TB,tim is trying to improve this it's his second brew..you can blame me for the lager,i let him try mine


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## timryan (22/1/11)

i think the canadian blonde is an ale steve... http://www.coopers.com.au/the-brewers-guil...rawberry-blonde ... its in the ale category


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## beerdrinkingbob (22/1/11)

timryan said:


> i think the canadian blonde is an ale steve... http://www.coopers.com.au/the-brewers-guil...rawberry-blonde ... its in the ale category




Good signs he shows yes!!


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## DU99 (22/1/11)

it has ale yeast..i thought i read it on the can..


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## timryan (22/1/11)

yer sorry steve just going by the website.. i went with just a plain BE1 and the kit for my second beer... once i know what it tastes like i can add and improve further from there... building a base to work from in the future


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## DU99 (22/1/11)

Tim thats what its all about..improving and experiment


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## mwd (22/1/11)

DU99 said:


> TB,tim is trying to improve this it's his second brew..you can blame me for the lager,i let him try mine




Nothing wrong with that got to start and build up slowly. I would always advise a beginner to start with stout you can get away with murder and still get a drinkable result. Delicate beers and lagers are much more difficult to produce. 

Edit: For a straight Kit and Kilo ( BE2 or Be1) Coopers dark ale takes some beating very tasty.


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## timryan (28/1/11)

Hey all just just wondering what was your starting gravities for your Canadian Blonde with be1? and what was your final gravity? Cheers Tim


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## going down a hill (29/1/11)

I'm not sure if this helps because I used 500g malt, 500g dex and 250 maltodex and my starting gravity was 1048. My est FG is 1013 with a alc vol at 4.9%. I am not sure what it's meant to be for BE1, but no doubt it would be less than 1048 for your SG. 

This is blind leading the blind info, but if I used BE1 I would be aiming for 1010 or less as your FG.

Cheers


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## timryan (29/1/11)

cheers yer my starting gravity was 1.040 and it was down to 1.016 yesterday.. im hoping for it to be about 1.010.. have to wait and see


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## going down a hill (31/1/11)

I did my first hydro reading last night and to my surprise it was 1011, it was a hot at the time, around 37c so the reading could be off a little. I ended up boiling all the cascade hops for 10mins and discarding them after the boil. This is by far the most excited I have been for one of my brews, the hops have bittered the beer so damn well, it has been a taste that I have been chasing. I might do a dry hop but it tastes tasty they way it is. The US05 yeast had a hell of a party in the fermenter they spewed yeast out of the air lock for two days. 

Tim- I went past a Kmart yesterday and was looking at the BE kits and they stated on the side of the box that you should be aiming for 1008 on both of the boxes.


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## The Giant (31/1/11)

I've done 2, both starting at 1038.

1st one was very well controlled temp wise and was in fermenter for 10 days, got down to 1008.

2nd one temp control was $hit house. Peaked at 27 chucked it in the bar fridge and it hit 12 degrees. Reading after Day 3 was 1014, left for another 7 days and only got to 1012, so I dare say I might have over worked the yeasties. Time will soon tell when i taste in a few weeks. Looks to be carbing up well in the bottle though


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## Amber Fluid (1/2/11)

I had a Coopers blond with BE1 and the OG was only 1032 with FG at 1008 = ABV only 3.2%
Pitched yeast at 24 Deg fermented at 22 Deg kegged at 6 days.

I was disappointed with the alcohol content but it was ok I guess for a 2nd brew. Will add some DME and Cascade hops next time.


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## scoot49 (1/2/11)

Hey guys,

New brewer here.

Have a Canadian Blonde in at the moment. Almost a week in the barrel.

Have used 1kg of LDM, and 500g of Japanese LME.

Really excited about this one.

OG was 1.034, after taking the Kollar off the fermenter last night, SG was 1.010

Will post final readings in couple of days


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## DU99 (1/2/11)

Just remember to leave it least 4-6weeks before drinking..


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