# Show Us Your Beer Engines



## Doc

My Beer Engine arrived this week. All very exciting. 
The aspirators have arrived at Kook's so should be here in the next week or so.

The experiments will begin.

Setup the BE tonight to give it a run through with some water to make sure all was functional. All worked well.
Glad I got the 1/2" tubing last week, because that is the size exactly for the beer line to the BE.

So here are some photos to get things started. I hope this thread becomes a wealth of info for anyone setting up a BE for your homebrew.

Feell free to post pics and details of your BE and Real Ale setup.

Beers,
Doc


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## poppa joe

Whats a beer engine...???????????
PJ


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## AndrewQLD

OH, that's just great Doc , NOW I have to buy a nice, shiny, pretty hand pump to go with my aspirator. Ok where do I get one from please :lol: .

Cheers
Andrew


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## Guest Lurker

Hi Doc. That looks great. What does the fitting look like that puts the half inch tubing on to a standard liquid disconnect?


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## Doc

I managed to score a non-return valve that has 1/2" connection on the BE side and a typical 3/8" connection size on the other side to get normal beer line onto for a disconnect.

Beers,
Doc


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## delboy

SO DOC YOU TOOK MY ADVICE AND DONE THE WATER TEST 
oops didnt mean to shout 

so was i right or wrong about the spare fitting????

DELBOY


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## Doc

delboy said:


> SO DOC YOU TOOK MY ADVICE AND DONE THE WATER TEST
> oops didnt mean to shout
> 
> so was i right or wrong about the spare fitting????
> 
> DELBOY
> [post="117105"][/post]​



There seem to be two spare fittings. I guess one could be used if you didn't want to use the 1/2" fitting. Not sure on the reason for the third.

Beers,
Doc


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## Ross

Mmmmm... Marstons Pedigree, one of my fav drops :chug: 

Looks great Doc  

cheers Ross...


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## Doc

I left water in the unit overnight to make sure there were no leaks. All good this morning.
Looking forward to using this unit on my German Ale that I dry hopped in the keg.

Beers,
Doc


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## Pumpy

poppa joe said:


> Whats a beer engine...???????????
> PJ
> [post="117089"][/post]​




PJ A 'Fire engine' sprays water so......
I suppose a 'Beer engine sprays beer :blink: :unsure: <_< 

Pumpy


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## sinkas

By that rationale a fire engine should spray fire...


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## warrenlw63

Or does a search engine spray search? Huh? :huh: 

Warren -


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## kirem

nice work I am working on getting one the moment.


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## dreamboat

Here are a couple of pictures of my beer engine.....






It is a Higene brand unit, no drip tray and no sparkler, but pours a very nice lightly carbonated drop as is.... and I love it. Really should have got in on the BB, but I am happy to use it at the moment if I plan on finishing a keg.


dreamboat


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## warrenlw63

Marston's and Ind Coope... I've gone for a Burton. :chug: 

Warren -


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## Sean

dreamboat said:


> no sparkler,


This is a good thing.


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## dreamboat

When I have used it, I have been very happy with the result, so I have certainly not considered tracking down a sparkler.


Cheers
Dreamboat


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## kirem

Why is a sparkler not good?

I read that in the North it accepted and in the South it is not.

Perhaps a bit like passing up a bundy in Cairns for a glass of St Peters and v d' v in Melbourne or even 'dura.


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## Sean

kirem said:


> Why is a sparkler not good?
> 
> I read that in the North it accepted and in the South it is not.


That's about the size of it, but it's not just a question of appearance. A sparkler changes the taste. Many beers from the south of England like Adnams, Harveys and Fullers are ruined by the use of a sparkler. The number of beers that are spoiled by not using a sparkler is vanishingly small. It's worth noting that Champion Beer of Britian judging is done directly from the cask by gravity, so any beer that wins regularly (eg Timothy Taylors Landlord and Golden Best) must taste pretty damn good without a sparkler whatever the Brewery's prefered method of dispense.


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## warrenlw63

I reckon they're ruined more by poor cellarmanship that sparklers.  

A good example of this is to go and try some Pedigree at about half a dozen pubs... The flavour is all over the shop. <_< 

Pedigree is a bit like the little girl with the little curl. When it's good it's very, very good when it's bad...

Warren -


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## Sean

warrenlw63 said:


> I reckon they're ruined more by poor cellarmanship that sparklers.
> 
> A good example of this is to go and try some Pedigree at about half a dozen pubs... The flavour is all over the shop. <_<
> 
> Pedigree is a bit like the little girl with the little curl. When it's good it's very, very good when it's bad...
> 
> Warren -
> [post="117570"][/post]​


Don't get me wrong - there is plenty of beer ruined by poor cellermanship. But, without a doubt, sparklers completely ruin many beers (especially Adnams).

Pedigree is particularly subject to mediocre cellermanship because it requires a cellar regeme unlike any other beer: stillaging on arrival, immediate venting with a soft-spile until it subsides, then hard spile for at least a week, preferably 10 days, then vent again 24-48 hours before serving. Most pub cellars are not even set up with the space to do it properly, let alone the knowledge, so it gets treated like any other beer and consequently is mediocre and very inconsistent. Properly kept it's still a beautiful pint (although still a bit inconsistent - that's the nature of the beast).

On the other hand, I used to know one pub landlord who cellared all his beers like he did for Pedigree. They tasted fine when first put on sale but were completely flat and insipid 24 hours later.


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## kirem

ok so how does a sparkler work?

Why did they start putting them on the engines?

What is a soft spile and for that matter a hard one?

Are there any online references to start learning this lost art?

K


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## warrenlw63

Kirem

A sparkler is just an attachment on the end of the swan neck. It's got several pinholes in it. The whole idea is the beer is just forced out under the pressure of the pump. (Think espresso coffee). Forcing it out also purges out residual CO2 and puts a nice, fluffy head on the beer. (Note this is not like the Guinness nitro dispense). 

The whole rationale was/is the sparkler was considered the norm in the North of England where their beers are supposedly maltier with less hop aroma and the punters expect a pint with a head.

Down south beers are are/were expected to be poured flat, tranquil and minus too much of a head. The purists claim that this preserves the hop aroma of the beer and in some instances they're probably right.

Personally (probably due to aesthetics) I prefer the sparkler pint because it looks nice. Bad, bad materialistic me. :lol: 

Warren -


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## Doc

I've gotten all the bits together and have done the plumbing. So without further ado, here are some piccies.

Here is the unit (setup on the end of the BBQ  )





The underside showing the beer line coming into the cylinder (via a non-return valve). I put the NRV in because I had one. Depending on your setup and the BE in relation to your cask/keg you may not need one.




Another shot showing my cleaning mechanism ( a Keg Systems cabonator cap with liquid disconnect ) on a coke bottle full of PSR solution.




Final piccy showing the Aspirator setup on a soda stream bottle (with reg).




Hopefully now that it is all clean I'll get a change to use it over the weekend and show some action shots.

Beers,
Doc


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## bindi

Saved those photos Doc  thanks, now I am looking for an engine [for real ale that is]


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## KoNG

Sparklers must also double as some form of drug taking impliment.?!?!
a couple of times in pretty east side Hackney i caught a few "lads" trying to borrow the sparklers.... naive me, thought they must have been enthusiastic homebrewers until the gaff informed me of their other use.
Lock em up at night boys..!!! 

UnderBelly KoNG


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## warrenlw63

Kong

I think they may shove the sparklers up their nostrils for that full "real ale" effect. :lol: 

Warren -


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## Doc

First test of the unit with the golden good stuff.
This is an Hourglass American Pale Ale/DIPA. It is highly carbonated so not the best beer for this type of thing, but it was the closest and easiest keg I had handy.
It worked really well. A less carbonated beer would have worked better, but I guess I have to do more experimentation 

The aspirator worked brilliantly. I had the reg dialled up at 100kpa and it let nothing into the keg until I started pumping. Then it only let it a very minimal amount. I guess this means you could have it on your existing balanced lines set at 100kpa but serving real ales from one of the connections. Nice.

Beers,
Doc


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## Guest Lurker

Flatten the beer and do it again!


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## Doc

Absolutely GL. But with a beer I've been saving to get this unit into action for.

Doc


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## big d

Im jealous doc


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## Doc

Monday night is going to be German Real Ale night through a British Beer Engine in Australia by a Kiwi. Oh the blasphemy 

Doc


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## Linz

Heres mine on initial set up to test...









and the wife also got this one for the lagers


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## Gough

So how are the beer engines going guys? They all look great - as a bottler I'm very envious. Are they helping perfect the cask ale/real ale pour? How's the flavour/mouthfeel difference? I'd love to give one a try sometime - been brewing lots of British Ale styles lately  

Shawn.

Edit: Spelling...


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## warrenlw63

Here's mine.

Had a damn hard time wrestling it off that skaggie up the road though. :lol: 

Warren -


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## RobW

Pretty high tech Warren. Mine's just a plain syringe without all that sophisticated hardware hanging off the end


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## warrenlw63

Mine's a northern syringe Rob.  

That there's a sparkler on the end me lad. :lol: 

Warren -


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## Linz

Hmmm....an aspirator.....thats what I need now.


Anyone get one and not need it????


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## bindi

Linz said:


> Hmmm....an aspirator.....thats what I need now.
> 
> 
> Anyone get one and not need it????




I know of one, will ask for you [family].  then PM you.


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## big d

Would love to help you out Linz but my aspirator from Docs bulk buy is still in its plastic bag awaiting hook up down the track.

Cheers
Big D


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## Zwickel

and here comes.....my zwickel:








Cheers


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## Doc

Organised an outside bracket for my beer engine, all ready for the summer bbq season (well its only a few months off; I'm organised).

Beers,
Doc


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## warrenlw63

New avatar Doc?

Looks like a shifty gynecologist. :lol: 

How's the engine been working for you? Have you pulled many successful pints yet?  

I like these threads... One can dream. B) 

Warren -


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## Doc

warrenlw63 said:


> New avatar Doc?
> Looks like a shifty gynecologist. :lol:
> 
> How's the engine been working for you? Have you pulled many successful pints yet?



Shifty gynecologist isn't quite what I was aiming for 

It has pulled a few pints, but next weekend it will get a through workout. Just hope the beer we will be pumping isn't too carbonated.

Doc


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## Duff

Doc said:


> It has pulled a few pints, but next weekend it will get a through workout. Just hope the beer we will be pumping isn't too carbonated.
> 
> Doc



Boy the heat's on now...


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## mike_hillyer

Just like the Murphy's "I am bitter!" I must have one!


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## Doc

Duff said:


> Doc said:
> 
> 
> 
> It has pulled a few pints, but next weekend it will get a through workout. Just hope the beer we will be pumping isn't too carbonated.
> 
> Doc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boy the heat's on now...
Click to expand...


A bit late with the photos, but they are now in the gallery.
The beer was perfect Duff. I can still taste it, after having my memory refreshed by the photos.
I've also put the pictures on Flickr here. Also a little bit of detail of the event here.

Beers,
Doc


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## Thommo

Was truly an awesome day.

Going to have to pester Duff for the recipe. Was superb drinking it freshly pulled through the beer engine. When I was in England a decade ago I was too young and immature to appreciate the real ale from casks. Drinking Duff's Bitter through Doc's Engine has made me determined to sneak away from the misses when I go there next year on my honeymoon. Could end up being a short union!

Doc, Let me know if you need any more help "testing" out the beer engine again. Always willing to offer a hand.


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## Vlad the Pale Aler

I have just picked up 2 Hi-Gene model H Deluxe beer engines.
One of them is pretty much standard, with a sparkler, aye lad a bloody sparkler!, the other has a strange looking tap on the swan-neck.
The tap has to be open before the pump will operate. Does anyone know about this, what it is meant for?
The manufacturer was not much help as the units are no longer made.


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## glennheinzel

Hey Vlad,

The strange looking tap looks like what you use to switch the flow on and off. ie, The top part flips down and beer comes out the base of the tap. My apologies for the lack of descriptive words, but I've had a few beers this arvo.

Edit - Okay. I've re-read the question and have no idea why they have the tap. I'm getting back to my beer...

Rukh


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## AndrewQLD

The one with the extra tap hasn't been reworked for standard kegged lagers has it? Some of these were made for side by side serving of ales and lagers in order for the bar to "look authentic" and the pump function doesn't actualy work, they were a standard tap like we have here.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Vlad the Pale Aler

Andrew -
that was my first impression too, but no it is a fully functioning engine that has grown a tap on its neck.
It is a factory fitment not a bodgey job, and there are no other attachments that suggest a keg/co2 setup.


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## AndrewQLD

Strange indeed Vlad, let us know if you find the answer, I can't for the life of me think of a reason to need a tap on a beer engine :blink: .

Cheers
Andrew


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## Thirsty Boy

Maybe the "extra" tap is so you can give the aspirators etc a miss and just run low C02 pressure into the cask. Tap eliminates any risk of the beer running out spontaneously.

Or not...just guessing


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## Vlad the Pale Aler

Just recieved an e-mail from CAMRA, apparantly it is just there to close off the swan-neck after use.




Thank you for the e-mail and the photos. From what I can see one handpump is fitted with a swan neck the devices first introduced about 10-20 years ago to reproduce the old economiser type pumps used in Yorkshire to serve beers such as Tetleys where there was a short spout to the handpump fitted with a tight sparkler through which the beer was forced resulting in lots of frothy head which flowed over the glass into a large drip tray and hence via a filter at the bottom of the tray through a pipe which reconnected to the beer line. When such devices were condemned as being unhygienic the swan neck system was introduced . To use it correctly you need to hold the glass so that the tip of the outlet pipe is touching the bottom of the glass the handpump pulled and as the glass fills the glass should slowly be lowered until the glass is full and there is a tight creamy head.

The traditional handpump outlet was a short spout just like in your second pump, the rollover valve or tap was there to seal the beer line pump after use. There are still lot of these pumps about where they have not been re[placed by swan necks. The tight sparkler whilst suitable for serving beers such as Tetley tend to knock condition out of many southern (i.e southern England) beers such as Adnams, London Pride etc which should not be served through tight sparklers.


Hope this is of help


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## sinkas

Going to have a christening party for them Vlad?


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## Vlad the Pale Aler

the thought had crossed my mind....


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## mika

Brew day ! 
Were those the ones in the quokka Vlad ? 2 in there this week...was tempted, but haven't researched it enough yet.


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## randyrob

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> I have just picked up 2 Hi-Gene model H Deluxe beer engines.



Nice Work Vlad, i'd be keen to see how these go!

still waiting for mine to arrive via boat.

Rob.

Brewday........ UUU BEEEWWDDDIIEE!!!!!


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## Vlad the Pale Aler

Been playing with me engine, trying to get a satisfactory connection to the keg.
The pump does not like pulling fluid through the tiny hole in the disconnect, too much effort at the pull and a lot of squealing from the seals.
Removing the disconnect and slipping the hose over the threaded spiggot was quite good but I got a lot of bubbles in the line and a jerky pull.
So this was the final solution, a CPC female buklhead fitting in the lid of an older Firestone type keg and the male on the tube to the engine. It works well and the female can stay in place while the beer secondary ferments, as it is self sealing.
I got the CPC's from Craftbrewer.
View attachment 14403


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## Ross

Top work Vlad.... I really got to get myself a decent beer engine sorted...next UK trip I'm leaving room in the case  

Cheers Ross


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## sinkas

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> Been playing with me engine,
> tiny hole, too much effort at the pull and a lot of squealing from the seals,
> Quite good,but I got a jerky pull.
> 
> View attachment 14403
> View attachment 14404
> View attachment 14405




From the upcoming carry-on movie, brewing at the zoo.


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## devo

that's a brilliant looking solution there Vlad. I've been thinking about getting a hand pump system going but still working out how best to go about it.


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## brendanos

Well done Vlad!

I'm with Sinkas, any excuse'll do!


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## deckedoutdaz

I'm sorry for being sorry, but what is an engine???

Daz


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## deckedoutdaz

*Ok guys, let me handle this one..........*

Daz, check the rest of the thread out before you waste our time....ok !!!!


Hmmm....i understand why some get frustrated...


SORRY.......


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## brendanos

If all else fails, wikipedia.org.


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## Jazzafish

Thommo said:


> Was truly an awesome day.
> 
> Going to have to pester Duff for the recipe. Was superb drinking it freshly pulled through the beer engine. When I was in England a decade ago I was too young and immature to appreciate the real ale from casks. Drinking Duff's Bitter through Doc's Engine has made me determined to sneak away from the misses when I go there next year on my honeymoon. Could end up being a short union!
> 
> Doc, Let me know if you need any more help "testing" out the beer engine again. Always willing to offer a hand.




Saw this post dug up....

That was a great day and an awesome beer pulled through it. Well done Duff!!!

Guess what is going on my Christmas list! :beer:


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## Guest Lurker

I'll show you my beer engine. After bidding and missing on several ebay UK auctions, I got this for ten pounds, plus a case of beer for the bloke that brought it out for me. It is jacketed and quarter pint pull I think.


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## Guest Lurker

So I have installed it on the kitchen wall above the sink. There is a dog box outside the window, holding a fridge which has a keg of real ale, and a keg of soda water in it. The fridge was donated by AusDB and has already had the cold plate moved to fit more kegs.


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## Guest Lurker

Because Mrs GL likes her soda water spritzy, it runs at 300 kPa. This was a bit much for the input to the aspirator on the real ale, and so I am using an inline regulator between the main reg and the aspirator.


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## Guest Lurker

I also found that a corny keg dip tube has too much restriction for the engine. But these old Mytton Grosvenor kegs have a much larger diameter dip tube, so with the poppet pulled out it works fine. If the beer is too gassed, there is too much head and the pump wont prime itself. But after connecting the keg I push the beer to the engine with CO2 and it works fine after that. The soda water also goes to a Pluto gun so I can get a drink when gardening without traipsing muddy boots into the kitchen.


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## Guest Lurker

Finally I built a box to tidy up the workings, and it all seems to be working fine.


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## warrenlw63

Besides lucky bugger GL all I can say is....

lucky bugger. 

Looks fantastic. :beerbang: 

Edit: Ingenuity itself. It looks like you can draw yourself a pint while Mrs. GL does the dishes. 

Warren -


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## THE DRUNK ARAB

That really is an outstanding bit of kit GL. I hope to get a beer engine next year on my trip to ol' blighty.

What beer do you have on the handpump at the moment?

C&B
TDA


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## Vlad the Pale Aler

nice work, don't empty it before next weekend


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## ausdb

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> nice work, don't empty it before next weekend


Yes but you do have to brave the hounds to get yourself a pint h34r: 
Also best to let someone else get the first few draws to bring up cool beer from the cellar/keg shed. It's *really warm and flat* the stuff that sits in the cylinder.


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## Guest Lurker

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> nice work, don't empty it before next weekend






ausdb said:


> It's *really warm and flat* the stuff that sits in the cylinder.



See heres the problem. I have been drinking from it all day, and if you leave it more than 10 mins between pints it does get a bit warm, I plan to drink a pint every 10 mins from now to swap day, calculate I need another 20 kegs to make it through.


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## eteo

Guest Lurker said:


> See heres the problem. I have been drinking from it all day, and if you leave it more than 10 mins between pints it does get a bit warm, I plan to drink a pint every 10 mins from now to swap day, calculate I need another 20 kegs to make it through.




Hi, great work. A quick question. If you place the corny in a small fridge, do you run the beer line through a PVC tubing? Do you need a fan in the fridge?

Thanks


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## kirem

I purchased this engine a while ago and set it up with the standard size beer line and had big troubles with foam. I stopped using it and tried to sell it a while, I am thankful that I didn't.

During the week just gone, I bit the bullet and purchased a corny keg lid and connectors to fit 1/2 inch line from the beer in the keg through the keg lid and to the beer engine. I decided to mount the engine on the side of the fridge. I have an aspirator (you can see it in one of the photos) to be mounted inside the fridge for gas replacement. I have ordered a couple of different sparklers to trial and a new drip tray from angram in the UK. I will soon have this setup as I have wanted for a while, well, apart from having a bar inside the house and it mounted on the bar.

what do you think?
View attachment 20678

View attachment 20677

View attachment 20679


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## goatherder

Bloody awesome kirem. Except for the bit about using sparklers.


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## kirem

goatherder said:


> Bloody awesome kirem. Except for the bit about using sparklers.



thought that would divide the audience.

They cost next to nothing, so I decided I might as well see if I like the ales with or without the sparkler. They offered two sizes, from memeory, 0.6 and 1.0


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## buttersd70

Sparklers are Gods gift to Yorkshiremen.  A pints not a pint unless you can put a tie on it.

I'm _sooo _jealous of your setup.


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## quadbox

I've never quite understood the whole sparklers thing. Havent really visited any real ale pubs further north, mostly only in london. And both of the pubs I worked for were Fullers pubs, and fullers are currently very anti-sparklers.

It'd be interesting to do a side-by-side with the same brew


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## kirem

Homicidal Teddybear said:


> It'd be interesting to do a side-by-side with the same brew



i'll let you know my impressions.


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## gap

][ It is very easy to sideby side taste beer pulled through a beer engine with and without sparkler.

All you have to do is pull beer with the sparkler and then unscrew the sparkler and pull beer into a new glass.

I have included some crappy photos of my beer engines and how I have configured a keg so as to use them. The keg 
configuration was inspired by Vlad the Pale Aler.










I will post photos of my Bar and kegging setup later , when I can take some acceptable photos.

Regards

Graeme


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## kirem

gap said:


> The keg configuration was inspired by Vlad the Pale Aler.



I think Vlad's setup was the first I saw of it as well.


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## ///

Mate ... maaattteeee ... maaaatttteeeeee....

Kirk it seems I am moving in ....

Scotty


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## reg

Is there a star trek convention in town.........................................
Kirk.............Scotty
:icon_cheers: :icon_chickcheers:


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## winkle

gap said:


> ][ It is very easy to sideby side taste beer pulled through a beer engine with and without sparkler.
> 
> All you have to do is pull beer with the sparkler and then unscrew the sparkler and pull beer into a new glass.
> 
> I have included some crappy photos of my beer engines and how I have configured a keg so as to use them. The keg
> configuration was inspired by Vlad the Pale Aler.
> 
> View attachment 20682
> 
> 
> View attachment 20683
> 
> View attachment 20684
> 
> 
> I will post photos of my Bar and kegging setup later , when I can take some acceptable photos.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Graeme



Cor, loverly that is.


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## ///

Mate

All I can say is "take me to your Real Ale, Do you speak English?' (does Mr Spook fanny hand signal, smiles nervously).

I have been lucky to have 2 beer Epiphanies in a week. All thanks to Real Ale and a mate Sean.

We have a new UBU Member Sean, and his is mad as is required down this little sleepy hollow. He is also a dedicated real ale man, and convinved me to carbonate in Cube. It seems my firkins are otherwise occupied, but under the encouragement of this POMMIE-expat I conditioned in a wort pack cube 15 litres of beer.

Last week after about 5 days I tasted this beer and it was range-ey and harsh. I thought it was lacto and was going to dump it. I got distracted (something sparklie over yonder no doubt), so when I had a last chance tasting on Wednesday night I poured a bright, develishly drinkable Real Ale. I was enamoured, so much so it is all gone (was a 1.036 beer and I had some help). The beer at initial tasting was in the middle of its 'sickness'.

Todays epiphany was a Worthington grist fermented with Ringwood ale yeast and a heap of goldings. Out of the FV it was bright and clear, and so drinkable. I have put 30l between 2 cubes to Cube Condition. Based on the beer out of FV this will be one of my best beers ever. Sean was over and had a taste, he almost cried. If I can make a grown POM cry for a beer just out of the FV I just wait for the Cube Conditioned beer in 2 weeks.

This cold winter is proving perfect for Cube Conditioned beer. 

Cubed Conditioned, its the revolution in Aussie beer just round the corner...


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## kirem

reg said:


> Is there a star trek convention in town.........................................
> Kirk.............Scotty
> :icon_cheers: :icon_chickcheers:



All this time I have known Scotty and it never occured to me! I get called captain by a few people at work, some others call me sanchez or kebab but thats' another story.


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## Thirsty Boy

It's horribly low brow after seeing all these lovely genuine beer engines - But has anyone tried to set up a bathtub version of a beer engine? I have heard tell that it can be reasonably done with a caravan style pump tap such as these





Hope so, because I just put a bid on one on e-bay. I want a water tap on the keggerator I am making anyway (glass rinsing and chilling) ... but it would be lovely if it could on special occasions serve double duty pulling a few pints of real ale

Any thoughts??

Thirsty


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## Jye

Thirsty, have you seen this thread on home brew talk?


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## kirem

I am mounting the aspirator today and can't remember which side is the high presssure and which is the low pressure.

one side is marked CO2 is the the LP or HP side?


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## Linz

Thirsty Boy said:


> It's horribly low brow after seeing all these lovely genuine beer engines - But has anyone tried to set up a bathtub version of a beer engine? I have heard tell that it can be reasonably done with a caravan style pump tap such as these
> 
> View attachment 20686
> View attachment 20687
> 
> 
> Hope so, because I just put a bid on one on e-bay. I want a water tap on the keggerator I am making anyway (glass rinsing and chilling) ... but it would be lovely if it could on special occasions serve double duty pulling a few pints of real ale
> 
> Any thoughts??
> 
> Thirsty



There was a "How to" using a caravan tap in a BYO mag a while ago. IIRC they used the lever style caravan tap....


----------



## gap

kirem said:


> I am mounting the aspirator today and can't remember which side is the high presssure and which is the low pressure.
> 
> one side is marked CO2 is the the LP or HP side?




Hello Kirem,

I am not sure what you mean by LP and HP but you run the gas line from the gas cylinder to the CO2 side of the aspirator and then run the gas line to the keg
from the other side.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## ///

Linz said:


> There was a "How to" using a caravan tap in a BYO mag a while ago. IIRC they used the lever style caravan tap....



Should work fine .... beer engines are a pump. So all good pumps should work. I am reliant on Cube Conditioned with a standard plastic tap ... very low rent at Chez Morgan!

Scotty


----------



## Thirsty Boy

Jye said:


> Thirsty, have you seen this thread on home brew talk?



I have now. Thanks. That answers the question nicely. I have even managed to find an auction for a nice retro one that looks good as well. Although I put a bid on the lever type one... guess I might end up with two handpumps then..... damn, what a shame.

Thanks guys

Thirsty


----------



## Doc

kirem said:


> I am mounting the aspirator today and can't remember which side is the high presssure and which is the low pressure.
> 
> one side is marked CO2 is the the LP or HP side?



The side marked CO2 goes to your gas bottle. The other side is the out to your keg/cask.

Beers,
Doc


----------



## kirem

thanks


----------



## kirem

I purchased this on ebay ready for the inaugral pouring. I went a bit overboard and got a TT polo shirt and bar mat as well. 

View attachment 20725


View attachment 20728


View attachment 20727


----------



## kirem

New drip tray and one of the sparklers fitted and a modified keg lid for 1/2inch beer delivery.

Not sure how much work I'll get done today. I feel like shit, I haven't been drinking (weight loss). Last night I had a couple of glasses of wine and a glass of 8-year old bundy and ginger beer and I feel like death warmed up today. I also have a terrible cold with lovely flouro green snot!

View attachment 20782

View attachment 20783

View attachment 20784


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

kirem said:


> New drip tray and one of the sparklers fitted and a modified keg lid for 1/2inch beer delivery.
> 
> Not sure how much work I'll get done today. I feel like shit, I haven't been drinking (weight loss). Last night I had a couple of glasses of wine and a glass of 8-year old bundy and ginger beer and I feel like death warmed up today. I also have a terrible cold with lovely flouro green snot!
> 
> View attachment 20782
> 
> View attachment 20783
> 
> View attachment 20784




Just found this thread. It will be a great reference point when my engine arrives. Kirem, did you butcher the lid to modify it, how far can a beer pump draw beer and because the beer is fauced carbed at pouring do you need some sought of gas cover in your keg after a session.

BYB


----------



## gap

You do not have to force carbonate. You can treat the keg as a large bottle and prime with sugar.

As far as replacing gas when you pull abeer it is usual to have a device called a cask aspirator which sits in the gas line between the gas and the keg.
It only allows gas to pass into the keg at very low pressure when a beer is pulled. Otherwise if you had gas at normal dispense pressure it would just 
force beer out of the beer engine.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## kirem

I took the lid to the work and the guys in engineering cut a nice neat keyed hole in the lid for me. I don't really have the equipment or care to cut holes in stainless. 

Not sure on maximum distance that an engine can pull beer, mine is about 1 meter, just inside the fridge that the engine is attached to.

The beer is not force carbonated, you will end up with foam if the keg is force carbonated. Like others I use an aspirator, basically, when you remove beer the aspirator replaces that volume with CO2. It doesn't put the beer under pressure.


----------



## Bribie G

Homicidal Teddybear said:


> I've never quite understood the whole sparklers thing. Havent really visited any real ale pubs further north, mostly only in london. And both of the pubs I worked for were Fullers pubs, and fullers are currently very anti-sparklers.
> 
> It'd be interesting to do a side-by-side with the same brew



I see this thread is live again. Brilliant, didn't know there were any beer engines in Australia. I lived in Cardiff, Wales for several years. The local brewery SA Brains pubs use sparklers for their real ale. Lovely tight creamy head and smooth malty bodied beer. When CAMRA (Campaign for real ale) became really huge in the 70s it became somewhat trendy in some of the 'middle class' pubs to have a cask or two on or behind the bar serving directly from the tap (like the Brekky Creek Hotel here in Brisbane)

I can still taste the Brains SA direct from the cask. As opposed to the creamy 'mothers milk' experience I was used to, it tasted almost fizzy with a sharp hoppiness very reminiscent of the beers from over the other side of the Bristol Channel in Somerset (where they don't use sparklers). It was really as different as a long black coffee vs a flat white, no exaggeration.

Whilst it was interesting and a bit of a 'jolt' to regular SA drinkers I didn't really go for it and went back to the sparkler served version. the modern nitro keg 'creamflow' - try Kilkenny - is fairly similar to sparkler beer but of course not identical as there's still a bit of CO2 remaining, but close. Had a pint of Wells Bombardier nitro after work today and was thinking along the same lines.

Edit: Love Youngs and London Beers but whenever I went 'up' to London it was weird to get an absolutely headless pint right up to the rim of the glass


----------



## AndrewQLD

Hi Kirem,
Great work, could you tell me what the fittings are that you used for your keg lid and where you got them from? I'm struggling to get my pump operational, and I still can't find a spout for it anywhere either.

Hope you feel better soon.

Andrew


----------



## gap

Andrew,

It is a CPC bulkhead fitting. It takes 1/2 inch hose.
The male fitting fits onto the line to the beer engine and the fmale section fits into the keg lid.
There is a barb end to the female fitting which takes a 1/2 inch hose to act as a dip tube.

The fittings are available from various sources including 2 of the sponsprs.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## kirem

AndrewQLD said:


> Hi Kirem,
> Great work, could you tell me what the fittings are that you used for your keg lid and where you got them from? I'm struggling to get my pump operational, and I still can't find a spout for it anywhere either.
> 
> Hope you feel better soon.
> 
> Andrew



Yep CPC fittings from Ross. One is the bulkhead fitting and the other is a barbed male fitting.

Try the manufacturer for the spout, I got my parts from Angram within a week of ordering. I know delboy or what ever his handle is now has some beer engine parts.


----------



## Guest Lurker

kirem said:


> Not sure on maximum distance that an engine can pull beer, mine is about 1 meter, just inside the fridge that the engine is attached to.



I have a 2m lift on mine. The pump wont prime itself, I have to push beer from the keg with a soda stream bottle, but after that it draws fine.

The labelling on the aspirator didnt seem logical to me either, I initially connected it back to front which meant it was continually trying to vent my gas bottle down to atmospheric pressure.


----------



## AndrewQLD

Thanks for the help guys, I've shot a couple of emails off so I'll see what happens, here's a pic of the old spout that needs replacing in case anyone can help, it needn't be the same as the one pictured so long as it works.






Andrew


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

Still a little confused on how these things really work. Basically I thought that flat finished beer was pulled through and somehow force carbed with air from the pump :unsure: I was at Grumpys quite a while back and had a beer through a pump. They had a fermenter under the bar at that time with the pump hose in it and drew the beer through the pump. Came out with a real creamy head and quite a flat soft taste on the pallet. The flavour also shone through. Yep I am confused :unsure: . When it arives and I take a good look at it my questions may be answered.


BYB


----------



## gap

The beer is conditioned in the corny, same as bottle conditionong.
The beer engine spout can have a sparkler attached if you wish.
The sparkler is a plastic end piece which is screwed to the end of the spout. 
The sparkler has about 20 pin holes in the ensd and the beer is forced through these holes.
So you can use the beer engine with or without the sparkler.

Regards


Graeme


----------



## kirem

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Still a little confused on how these things really work. Basically I thought that flat finished beer was pulled through and somehow force carbed with air from the pump :unsure: I was at Grumpys quite a while back and had a beer through a pump. They had a fermenter under the bar at that time with the pump hose in it and drew the beer through the pump. Came out with a real creamy head and quite a flat soft taste on the pallet. The flavour also shone through. Yep I am confused :unsure: . When it arives and I take a good look at it my questions may be answered.
> 
> 
> BYB



The engine is basically a cylinder and piston. this draws the ale out of the keg/cask. There is no carbonation.

rather than

attaching CO2 to force the ale to the tap.

You don't need CO2 to draw ale using a keg/cask. the CO2 via the aspirator is there to place a gas cover over the ale so it doesn't go 'off'. Just like to use a sparkler or not using an aspirator is just as controversial. The ale changes character when exposed to air and this can be the beauty of cask ale. Unless you drink alot an average home brewer would be leaving the ale exposed to air for a long time.

hope this helps clear things up a little.


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

kirem said:


> The engine is basically a cylinder and piston. this draws the ale out of the keg/cask. There is no carbonation.
> 
> rather than
> 
> attaching CO2 to force the ale to the tap.
> 
> You don't need CO2 to draw ale using a keg/cask. the CO2 via the aspirator is there to place a gas cover over the ale so it doesn't go 'off'. Just like to use a sparkler or not using an aspirator is just as controversial. The ale changes character when exposed to air and this can be the beauty of cask ale. Unless you drink alot an average home brewer would be leaving the ale exposed to air for a long time.
> 
> hope this helps clear things up a little.




Ok here goes. I would still carbonate me keg as normal but where I would use head pressure in keg to pour, in the case of a Engine I would draw carbonated beer and not worry about the constant head pressure in the keg? I understand about needing gas cover to eliminate air but what is an apirator? I assume after a session I would need to manually put a cover back in the keg and most likely purge any air.

I think I am getting there. I think.

BYB


----------



## mje1980

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Ok here goes. I would still carbonate me keg as normal but where I would use head pressure in keg to pour, in the case of a Engine I would draw carbonated beer and not worry about the constant head pressure in the keg? I understand about needing gas cover to eliminate air but what is an apirator? I assume after a session I would need to manually put a cover back in the keg and most likely purge any air.
> 
> I think I am getting there. I think.
> 
> BYB




On ya BYB, you're asking questions a lot of other people want to know. I just read this thread now, and its got me keen.


----------



## gap

The aspirator sits in the gas line between the gas cylinder and the keg.
When you pull a pint the aspirator senses the drop in pressure and opens a valve . 
This allows Co2 , at very low pressure, to take up the space vacated by the beer you are now drinking. 
It regulates the pressure so you can have gas supplied to your real ale at next to no pressure and gas 
at normal pressure supplied to your other kegs. You just need a splitter to separate the gas lines.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

gap said:


> The aspirator sits in the gas line between the gas cylinder and the keg.
> When you pull a pint the aspirator senses the drop in pressure and opens a valve .
> This allows Co2 , at very low pressure, to take up the space vacated by the beer you are now drinking.
> It regulates the pressure so you can have gas supplied to your real ale at next to no pressure and gas
> at normal pressure supplied to your other kegs. You just need a splitter to separate the gas lines.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Graeme




The pump I have bought from the UK says it come with an "inline check valve" thats lets you use keg beer. I assume / hope that is the apirator that we have been discussing. Will only find out in October.

Great info here so far.

BYB


----------



## kirem

not quite.
The ale in the keg/cask is at approximately atmospheric pressure (flat to taste) and no forced carbonation. the CO2 that is in the ale, is there under atmospheric pressure. The same as it will be in your glass (until it changes temperature). There is no change or very little change in carbonation from keg/cask to glass.

Basically flat beer, any forced carbonation will result in your ale pushing itself up the line and through you beer engine and out the spout. A beer engine doesn't shut off the beer line like a modern beer tap does.

Carbonate your beer to 1 atmosphere or there abouts either by force or priming in the keg/cask, taking into account your serving/storing temperature and draw the beer through the engine and into your glass.

An aspirator is a device that takes high pressure CO2 like we put on our modern day kegging systems and regulates it down to 1 atmosphere. it is there to replace the beer that is drawn out. if the keg isn't open to the atmospher/air then drawing some beer out of keg/cask will result in a vaccum being created.

Hope that ads to a better understanding.


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

kirem said:


> not quite.
> The ale in the keg/cask is at approximately atmospheric pressure (flat to taste) and no forced carbonation. the CO2 that is in the ale, is there under atmospheric pressure. The same as it will be in your glass (until it changes temperature). There is no change or very little change in carbonation from keg/cask to glass.
> 
> Basically flat beer, any forced carbonation will result in your ale pushing itself up the line and through you beer engine and out the spout. A beer engine doesn't shut off the beer line like a modern beer tap does.
> 
> Carbonate your beer to 1 atmosphere or there abouts either by force or priming in the keg/cask, taking into account your serving/storing temperature and draw the beer through the engine and into your glass.
> 
> An aspirator is a device that takes high pressure CO2 like we put on our modern day kegging systems and regulates it down to 1 atmosphere. it is there to replace the beer that is drawn out. if the keg isn't open to the atmospher/air then drawing some beer out of keg/cask will result in a vaccum being created.
> 
> Hope that ads to a better understanding.




:wacko: :unsure: :wacko: yes and no. When it arrives I will dig up this thread again.

BYB


----------



## cdbrown

gap said:


> View attachment 20684
> 
> 
> I will post photos of my Bar and kegging setup later , when I can take some acceptable photos.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Graeme



I brought 2 beer engines back from the UK recently thinking I'd use one and perhaps sell the other, but now after seeing how nice these two look together and reminiscing of all the great ales I guzzled while in London I think 2 will be incorporated into the bar design. Thanks for the inspiration Graeme and looking forward to the pics you promised.

Cheers
-cdbrown


----------



## ArnieW

kirem said:


> An aspirator is a device that takes high pressure CO2 like we put on our modern day kegging systems and regulates it down to 1 atmosphere. it is there to replace the beer that is drawn out. if the keg isn't open to the atmospher/air then drawing some beer out of keg/cask will result in a vaccum being created.


Great thread guys. I've had a beer engine sitting in the cupboard for ages and now inspired to brew a nice ale for it. Just one question - where can I get an aspirator?


----------



## gap

nigh on impossible to source in Australia.
I got mine from 
www.beerengines.com
Centriflow Services Ltd
Unit E The Sidings Settle
North Yorkshire BD24 9RP
[email protected]

in the UK. Great service from Alaistair.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## kirem

ArnieW said:


> Great thread guys. I've had a beer engine sitting in the cupboard for ages and now inspired to brew a nice ale for it. Just one question - where can I get an aspirator?



I got mine from the bulk buy organised by Doc. Maybe start a new thread and see if someone purchased one through the bulk buy and doesn't want or need it now.


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

kirem said:


> An aspirator is a device that takes high pressure CO2 like we put on our modern day kegging systems and regulates it down to 1 atmosphere. it is there to replace the beer that is drawn out. if the keg isn't open to the atmospher/air then drawing some beer out of keg/cask will result in a vaccum being created.
> 
> Hope that ads to a better understanding.




Kirem

Do the poms over in the UK use such a device or do they call it something else. Can you post a pic of yours. I may e-mail www.beerengines.com to find out about purchasing an aspirator.

BYB


----------



## kirem

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;hl=aspirator


----------



## Tim

Just a question to the aspirator guys. Can you put a splitter on after the aspirator so you can use it on two kegs with two pumps? Or will I need one aspirator per pump?
I am planning to get two check valves like Doc has - I gather that by doing this I can run standard beer line up to the check valve and not need to do any fancy corny lid modifications. Apparently the check valves will hold carbonated beer at bay up to 30 psi as they only open when a vacuum is created (ie the beer engine is pumped).


----------



## Tim

Search has provided part of my answer!


----------



## Guest Lurker

Hi Tim
The fancy lid mods are to get a larger diameter line. The actual dip tube in the keg and the poppet in the post restrict the flow and some pumps squeal and cant get enough flow. I havent changed the lid, but I use older Firestone style kegs, the dip tube in these is about twice the size of standard cornies, so if you pull the poppet out of the post it draws OK.


----------



## kirem

Just running some peracetic acid through the keg, new lines and the engine.

View attachment 23376

View attachment 23377

View attachment 23378


----------



## jonocarroll

Ok, I'm curious - what's the wine bottle for? Looks to be connected to something. :huh:


----------



## kirem

its got high alcohol water in it with the probe for the fridgemate sitting in it.


----------



## THE DRUNK ARAB

Looking good Kirk.

Do you use your normal CO2 cylinder with the cask aspirator?

I am hoping to have mine set-up by the end of January. On the look out for a second hand bar fridge at the moment.

C&B
TDA


----------



## kirem

yep normal CO2 cylinder
View attachment 23381

View attachment 23382

View attachment 23383


----------



## Vlad the Pale Aler

A few crappy phone pics showing aspirator fitted along with new handle and pump clip.


----------



## Hefty

Slightly :icon_offtopic: but I'm picking up some kegs onthe weekend and I'm hoping to make a caravan pump beer engine until I can get the rest of my kegging gear. I was wondering: At what rate would you prime an english ale in the cask/keg?
I know that carbonation at serving is basically just residual at ambient pressure but what rate per litre should I prime to get the appropriate amount of residual CO2 once I have vented through the release valve? (my version of putting in a soft spile)

I know this is probably one of those "it depends" questions but opinions, advice?
Cheers!
Jono.


----------



## gap

Hefty said:


> Slightly :icon_offtopic: but I'm picking up some kegs onthe weekend and I'm hoping to make a caravan pump beer engine until I can get the rest of my kegging gear. I was wondering: At what rate would you prime an english ale in the cask/keg?
> I know that carbonation at serving is basically just residual at ambient pressure but what rate per litre should I prime to get the appropriate amount of residual CO2 once I have vented through the release valve? (my version of putting in a soft spile)
> 
> I know this is probably one of those "it depends" questions but opinions, advice?
> Cheers!
> Jono.



Note how kirem and Vlad have modified the lid of the keg.
I have done likewise.
You may have to do the same . You may have difficulty sucking
beer out of the Beer out post using a normal disconnect and beer out post and dip tube.

Regards


Graeme


----------



## Hefty

Cheers Graeme,

Yeah, I'm getting a spare lid to put a 1/2" bulkhead fitting through.
If the pump size is right, I might even just mount it directly through the spare lid. I'll have to wait til I get it in my hot little hand to measure it though.

Jono.


----------



## sinkas

Keg modification: 
I have the polysulfone disconnect, on crafctbrewer,, they say it seales shut when you pull them apart, however mine doesnt..?

is the type of tubing you use for the new diptube critical, ie is there a particular type I should use, vlad?


----------



## Hefty

Another OT question:
Can someone tell me what CPC stands for? I did a search and couldn't find anything (even in the acronyms article)
Eg *CPC *bulkhead female fitting

Cheers!
Jono.


----------



## gap

Hefty said:


> Another OT question:
> Can someone tell me what CPC stands for? I did a search and couldn't find anything (even in the acronyms article)
> Eg *CPC *bulkhead female fitting
> 
> Cheers!
> Jono.



CPC Colder Products Company

Regards

Graeme


----------



## Vlad the Pale Aler

sinkas said:


> Keg modification:
> I have the polysulfone disconnect, on crafctbrewer,, they say it seales shut when you pull them apart, however mine doesnt..?
> 
> is the type of tubing you use for the new diptube critical, ie is there a particular type I should use, vlad?






I don't think its critical, as long as its food grade and flexible enough to wangle in through the top of the keg and it nearly reaches the bottom.


----------



## Rurik

This came by TNT yesterday. Had to share the Photo.

Rurik


----------



## peas_and_corn

kirem said:


> Just running some peracetic acid through the keg, new lines and the engine.
> 
> View attachment 23376
> 
> View attachment 23377
> 
> View attachment 23378






Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> A few crappy phone pics showing aspirator fitted along with new handle and pump clip.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 24619
> 
> View attachment 24620
> 
> View attachment 24621




...OK, since I know nothing about hand pumps... what are you guys doing? Specifically, what is connected to what and why?


----------



## raven19

Rurik said:


> This came by TNT yesterday. Had to share the Photo.
> 
> Rurik



Soooo jealous.... :icon_drool2: 

Me wants one!!!!

Look forward to seeing some pics fully setup Rurik.


----------



## Rurik

raven19 said:


> Soooo jealous.... :icon_drool2:
> 
> Me wants one!!!!
> 
> Look forward to seeing some pics fully setup Rurik.



Will do. Hame to work out how to set it up. The white thing on the tray is a check/demand valve. I am hoping that I can use this to run the beer up the line under presure then despence from there. This way I dont have to modify a keg and I can just continue kegging as i allways have.


----------



## THE DRUNK ARAB

I know Ross sells these fittings and I am not trying to steal his thunder but I need some of the female bulkhead fittings with a valve so that I can seal the keg(Ross currently has the ones without the valve).

I am ordering some through a dealer in Australia so if you are interested please let me know by next Wednesday.

This main bulkhead will be $35.45 + tax and the insert will be $10.95 + tax. Postage will obviously be extra.

C&B
TDA


----------



## AndrewQLD

THE DRUNK ARAB said:


> I know Ross sells these fittings and I am not trying to steal his thunder but I need some of the female bulkhead fittings with a valve so that I can seal the keg(Ross currently has the ones without the valve).
> 
> I am ordering some through a dealer in Australia so if you are interested please let me know by next Wednesday.
> 
> This main bulkhead will be $35.45 + tax and the insert will be $10.95 + tax. Postage will obviously be extra.
> 
> C&B
> TDA



Put me down for one TDA, I have one of those useless ones from Ross before it was realised they don't seal.

Andrew


----------



## Cortez The Killer

IBU Beer Engines from Real Ale Fest 3

Mine is the not so shiny one of the right

You'll also note that my engine has an external check valve installed as it didn't come with the internal one intact - it must have had an inline one installed when mounted in the pub it was in

Before I realised what the issue was the engine was pulling air back through the spout on the return stroke as there wasn't any back pressure on the piston

This is the check valve I went for http://www.caravansplus.com.au/catalog/pro...roducts_id=5611 it does the job well

John Guest do one as well but in 12mm OD which is a bit fiddly to install the 1/2"ID tube required at the engine, cube and keg post ends

On the day we dispensed from 16L cubes which had been primed with sugar and also from kegs

Several different styles of beer went through the engines including bitters, milds, irish reds, stouts, wits and a couple of lagers

The latter non typical styles received some mixed reviews

Cheers


----------



## THE DRUNK ARAB

Cortez The Killer said:


> IBU Beer Engines from Real Ale Fest 3
> 
> Mine is the not so shiny one of the right
> 
> You'll also note that my engine has an external check valve installed as it didn't come with the internal one intact - it must have had an inline one installed when mounted in the pub it was in
> 
> Before I realised what the issue was the engine was pulling air back through the spout on the return stroke as there wasn't any back pressure on the piston
> 
> This is the check valve I went for http://www.caravansplus.com.au/catalog/pro...roducts_id=5611 it does the job well
> 
> John Guest do one as well but in 12mm OD which is a bit fiddly to install the 1/2"ID tube required at the engine, cube and keg post ends
> 
> On the day we dispensed from 16L cubes which had been primed with sugar and also from kegs
> 
> Several different styles of beer went through the engines including bitters, milds, irish reds, stouts, wits and a couple of lagers
> 
> The latter non typical styles received some mixed reviews
> 
> Cheers



Good stuff Cortez. Sounds like it would have been a cracking day.

C&B
TDA


----------



## drsmurto

So jealous Cortez!

Would happily swap my 3 tap font for a row of handpumps :icon_drool2: :icon_drunk:


----------



## chucke

OK, this is as low tech is it comes, but this is what I use for a beer engine.



$25 from a camping store- it's a liquid soap dispenser.

Now I guess I need a couple hose clamps and an end doo-dad to rig up a sparkler?? :huh:


----------



## Offline

Picked this up today
I will get a chance to go right over during the school holidays


----------



## BOG

Offline,

That looks great. Where did you get it and for how much?



BOG


----------



## Cocko

Offline said:


> Picked this up today
> I will get a chance to go right over during the school holidays
> 
> View attachment 28706
> 
> 
> View attachment 28707
> 
> 
> View attachment 28708



Can I have it, please?


----------



## Offline

I got it off eBay, but I had to drive to Port Stephens to pick it up. And of course I just had to stop at Murrays brewery on the way, and I just had to sample their beers while there.

The gentlemen I purchased the engine off says that he brought it over from the UK when he moved here about 5 years ago and that it had been removed from an English pub for renovations. 

This beer engine has made by H.Mason stamped on it. 

Nobody else placed bid on it so I got it for the reserve price of $300


----------



## Offline

Ok I got a chance today to do a water test and the results were;

Both pumps are pint in size

One leaking pump, from where the shaft enters the pump. Im guessing that a new seal kit will fix this?

One leaking check valve, I pulled it apart to have a look and the diaphragm is perished. It sucked air while pumping and leaked water while not.

The taps on the end of the goose necks both leak, but Im assuming that they only do a similar job to the check valves, only manually? If I have to order seal kits for the pumps from the UK Ill probably get a couple of these taps too.

Anyway I have enough good bits to get one pump working straight away and I have an aspirator on the way.


----------



## Jez

my beer engine leaked from the same spot. I pulled apart that bit, seal looked ok so I just lubed it up a bit, put it back together and it no longer leaked.

might just need to be lubed and tightened?

Jez


----------



## mwd

Offline said:


> Ok I got a chance today to do a water test and the results were;
> 
> Both pumps are pint in size



Yes that's normal for British pumps one full pull gives a half, 2 for a pint.

Memories of working in a pub many years ago.

:icon_offtopic: the biggest load of bull was the handpump handle on the bar that activated a microswitch that pumped an exact measure by electric motor.
looked authentic though.


----------



## Vlad the Pale Aler

My Hi-Gene engine has been playing up, so I ordered a seal kit from CFBS in UK.
The package arrived on the 7th July and was postmarked 3rd july in Yorkshire. Is this a record?

Anyhoo back to the beer engine, the new seal kit still didn't fix it, not getting any suction at all, ideas anyone? (keep it clean Sinkas).


----------



## buttersd70

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> The package arrived on the 7th July and was postmarked 3rd july in Yorkshire. Is this a record?


Bloody must be...I recently got a birthday card from my uncle....my birthday was in march. I thought that was fairly good. Then I remembered that my uncle died over 12 months ago.....so it was obviously meant for last year. :lol:


----------



## Bribie G

Tropical_Brews said:


> Yes that's normal for British pumps one full pull gives a half, 2 for a pint.
> 
> Memories of working in a pub many years ago.
> 
> :icon_offtopic: the biggest load of bull was the handpump handle on the bar that activated a microswitch that pumped an exact measure by electric motor.
> looked authentic though.



Yes that was a shame because electric pumps could deliver real ale quite 'authentically' as they were not doing so by CO2 pressure. There were some very nice electric pumps often displayed on the bar top with glass cylinders and chrome pistons passing from side to side as the beer was dispensed, loved to sit at the bar and just watch them working. The copper coloured beer in the cylinders was like a beautiful stained glass window.
The fake handpump arrangement however was pure kitsch.


----------



## Scruffy

BribieG said:


> Yes that was a shame because electric pumps could deliver real ale quite 'authentically' as they were not doing so by CO2 pressure. There were some very nice electric pumps often displayed on the bar top with glass cylinders and chrome pistons passing from side to side as the beer was dispensed, loved to sit at the bar and just watch them working. The copper coloured beer in the cylinders was like a beautiful stained glass window.
> The fake handpump arrangement however was pure kitsch.


Hey, I remember them!!!

Greenhalls bitter IIRC, some even dispensed into the early 80's in Cheshire... the words 'ind coope' come to mind...


----------



## Offline

Jez said:


> my beer engine leaked from the same spot. I pulled apart that bit, seal looked ok so I just lubed it up a bit, put it back together and it no longer leaked.
> 
> might just need to be lubed and tightened?
> 
> Jez



Thanks Jez, 
i will give this a go, it can't hurt anyway. What type of lube do you guys use and where do you get it from? 
i can't see myself having 2 hand pumped beers on tap at once very often, so i don't mind if the second pump has slight leak.

Off'y


----------



## Offline

Jez,



I owe you one warm flat pint of hand pulled ale mate, no more leaks on either pump. It uses an o-ring or two similar to a gland seal on the shaft. 





Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> ...
> The traditional handpump outlet was a short spout just like in your second pump, the rollover valve or tap was there to seal the beer line pump after use. There are still lot of these pumps about where they have not been re[placed by swan necks. The tight sparkler whilst suitable for serving beers such as Tetley tend to knock condition out of many southern (i.e southern England) beers such as Adnams, London Pride etc which should not be served through tight sparklers.



Vlad



I thought that is what the tap on the end of the swan neck was for, I remember reading your post a while ago now because I remember thinking at the time how discussing it was that they fed the slops back into the cask. :icon_vomit: 

How well does that particular swan neck pour a beer? 

I notice in you picture that there is something, maybe plastic, screwed to the end of that swan neck, is this just a sparkler?



When you say that your pump has no suction can you clarify this. Where have you checked for suction at?


----------



## Vlad the Pale Aler

Offline- The engine with the appendage has been sold, it was a rollover valve that closed the spout off to prevent spoilage. The plastic thing on the end of the other one is indeed a sparkler.

The engine just does not suck anything up as it should, leading me to believe that the seals were faulty, changed 'em and it is the same. I didn't go overboard with the lube (technical white grease), as you should not have to depend on it rather than the seal.
Most probably something really simple.


----------



## Jez

Offline said:


> Jez,
> 
> I owe you one warm flat pint of hand pulled ale mate, no more leaks on either pump.




hahaha, no worries mate. Glad it worked.

:icon_chickcheers: 

Jez


----------



## drsmurto

Seems my little bro has come to the party. When he visits us from the UK next month he will be bringing me this.








It looks a little different to the ones posted in this thread. 

I am trying to convince him to bring me another one (4 people flying over, 4 suitcases........). He is already on the scrounge for extra clips and other memorabilia for my bar. :beerbang:


----------



## raven19

Duuuuude!

Is he taking orders?  

Cant wait to pop around to help sample its contents!


----------



## cdbrown

You should tell him they should travel light so they can fill up the suitcases on their way back with soveniers thereby creating space in the suitcase for beer engines. Make sure he brings along an aspirator (can run multiple kegs off one) and check valve (one for each engine) for you as well.

Font clips are cheap as chips on ebay. See if he can get the drip tray and holder to go with the engine.


----------



## Bribie G

I take it that you are also building a granny flat so Butters can move in with you? B)


----------



## raven19

BribieG said:


> I take it that you are also building a granny flat so Butters can move in with you? B)



:icon_offtopic: Zing!


----------



## drsmurto

BribieG said:


> I take it that you are also building a granny flat so Butters can move in with you? B)



muckey did offer to help me build it! :lol:


----------



## muckey

DrSmurto said:


> muckey did offer to help me build it! :lol:




always looking for a good home for butters  

the further away from my kegs, the better h34r:

edit: ps DrS - waiting for the pumpwarming invite :icon_drunk:


----------



## gap

It would be nice if this thread got back on topic.


----------



## ///

Well I'll try ...


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Has this pump been christened yet Scotty?


----------



## winkle

Very nice indeed Scotty, the "bar" needs re-staining though.


----------



## Offline

Does that mean that the shipment has arrived Scotty?

or have you had it sitting around unused?




Off'y


----------



## buttersd70

Smurto
I hope it has a bloody sparkler. :lol: 

I'd respond to the jibes against me, but some people might get the hump that it's too far :icon_offtopic: ...............


----------



## drsmurto

Doesnt look like it has a sparkler, brother lives in London so i assume its a southern pump!

I have asked him to pick up a few for me so i can see the difference.

I've asked for an aspirator as well, will ask for a check valve (although i will have to read up on what they are.....  )


----------



## Bribie G

About thirty years ago when I was in a Shepherd Neame pub at Sheerness waiting for the ferry to Flushing in Holland the guy had made his own sparkler, which consisted of a bit of copper pipe hammered till almost closed at the bottom end, and jammed up the swan neck. On pumping the beer came out almost like a Tetleys. I don't know what possessed him to make that mod, probably all the Yorkshire bastards heading to Holland for the cheap legal dope and stopping off for a few pints at his pub


----------



## ///

I've run some 'brewery conditioned' beer thru the handpull, have a MO based beer fermenting at the moment to cube up.

This is a really nice pump, came from Alistair at http://www.beerengines.com/ . Has been reconditioned and has a great action. They ship via air, so left the UK one Monday, arrived in Aus on the Friday!

I do believe it is heading to the Nationals ... 

Scotty


----------



## Fatgodzilla

/// said:


> I do believe it is heading to the Nationals ...
> Scotty



Indeed it is .. just hope the ales I make showcase the fine product to its best !


----------



## cdbrown

DrSmurto said:


> Doesnt look like it has a sparkler, brother lives in London so i assume its a southern pump!
> 
> I have asked him to pick up a few for me so i can see the difference.
> 
> I've asked for an aspirator as well, will ask for a check valve (although i will have to read up on what they are.....  )



Check valve goes between the keg and the pump - basically it works by not allow beer to be "pushed" into the engine, only "pulled". Some people use these instead of the aspirator and then allow the beer to be carbed. I believe it will also prevent the beer in the line from flowing back into the keg as long as all the connections provide a nice seal.


----------



## drsmurto

cdbrown said:


> Check valve goes between the keg and the pump - basically it works by not allow beer to be "pushed" into the engine, only "pulled". Some people use these instead of the aspirator and then allow the beer to be carbed. I believe it will also prevent the beer in the line from flowing back into the keg as long as all the connections provide a nice seal.



 

You'd think i would be able to work that out for myself...... but no!

Cheers cdbrown :icon_cheers:

p.s. and to those of you who have PMed, sms'ed the answer is no. Bro is bringing back one and one only.


----------



## raven19

DrSmurto said:


> p.s. and to those of you who have PMed, sms'ed the answer is no. Bro is bringing back one and one only.



That covers my requirements, what about the good Doctor though?  :lol:


----------



## bigfridge

raven19 said:


> That covers my requirements, what about the good Doctor though?  :lol:




For any of you that miss out - we now have a full range of beer engines, check valves and sparklers in stock. 

Please see our post in the Retail Forum


Dave


----------



## drsmurto

A few questions for the beer engine knowledgeable.....

Does this cask breather/aspirator look ok - Link

And how about this check valve - Link

Very excited, got a nice WY1469 yeast cake to be split into a few bitters ready to be pumping the day the engine arrives! Already have the spare gas line in place


----------



## Jez

Yep, both are good and I got both mine from barley bottom as well.

Very good service and was very happy with them.

Jez


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Hi Jez

What sort of line did you use on the check valve inlet?

Cheers


----------



## Jez

I thought getting 3/8" line here for the inlet might be a little difficult so I just ordered 2 metres from barleybottom when i ordered my breather & check valve: 

http://www.barleybottom.com/menu/product/&ID=147

It doesn't say the brand but it's the valpar fexmaster II that Ross sells so maybe he can source some if need be. In my order Barleybottom also included a metre of 1/2" tubing for the check valve outlet to the engine and a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor (that I haven't had to use) for free.

Jez


----------



## drsmurto

I finally got to caress my beautiful handpump last night :unsure: 

That didn't sound dodgy at all! h34r: 

Its not only a thing of beauty but its solid. I understand now why my brother wouldn't bring back more than 1 for me. Unlike a few i have seen which have wooden frames this baby is solid brass from top to bottom. 

He did grab both the aspirator and check valve as well as an extra 8 or so pump clips including 2 extra Timothy Taylor clips (1 x landlord, 1 x golden best - the TT mild), a ruddles, deuchars IPA and a few others. 

Now all i have to do is figure out how to set it up and to knock the carb out of my bramling cross bitter so i can serve it through the pump.

And Butters, it came with 2 sparklers! :icon_cheers:


----------



## Effect

sounds nice...had a look back at a few pages and saw the pics, solid brass eh? Definately looks the goods.

If you ever need anyone to come up and check to see if your beers taste any good through the pump - just let me know :icon_cheers: :beer: 

Cheers
Phil


----------



## drsmurto

Had to attach it to the bar and take some happy snaps.....














:icon_chickcheers:


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

DrSmurto said:


> I finally got to caress my beautiful handpump last night :unsure:
> That didn't sound dodgy at all! h34r:



Nup, that did not sound to dodgy but.....



DrSmurto said:


> Its not only a thing of beauty but its solid.



That did!! :lol: :lol:


----------



## raven19

I think this should be made portable and brought to 3G's case swap! :icon_cheers:


----------



## brendo

DrSmurto said:


> Had to attach it to the bar and take some happy snaps.....
> 
> View attachment 31944
> 
> 
> View attachment 31945
> 
> 
> View attachment 31946
> 
> 
> View attachment 31947
> 
> 
> :icon_chickcheers:


 :icon_drool2:

nice one Smurto - very jealous!!


----------



## mckenry

DrSmurto said:


> Had to attach it to the bar and take some happy snaps.....



Hey Dr.
That is a thing of beauty! You lucky p**ck...
I know you're in the hills there, but do you ever get down to the Bull and Bear? I was there a long time ago, before my passion for beer was realised, but I reckon they had a hand pumped beer there. If you do go, does it still exist?


----------



## raven19

Slightly  :icon_offtopic: Bull and Bear still there from memory... Linky

Have not been for a number of years... poor form considering I work about 200m up the road!


----------



## mckenry

raven19 said:


> Slightly  :icon_offtopic: Bull and Bear still there from memory... Linky
> 
> Have not been for a number of years... poor form considering I work about 200m up the road!



Oh, I didnt even concider the bull may be gone, but yeah, these things can happen! Glad to hear it's alive and kicking. It was, maybe still is a great joint. Get in there raven and do us a Pub review.
I was wondering more about the hand pump and if it was still there. Like I said before, I cant be entirely sure thats what it was, as I wasnt that into beer in those days. Coming from NSW and in my early 20's I thought Coopers was about as extreme as it got....
But looking back, I remember the funny handle that was pulled twice for a beer, so assume it was one of these.
mckenry


----------



## drsmurto

I've been in there a few times this year and no handpump. 

Its been done up not that long ago so very shiny. Does good food but the beer is the usual suspects.

EDIT - will try and get the pump commissioned in the next week or 2 to see if i can pump via the beer out post otherwise i will need to get another keg and modify the lid. Should be no reason why i cant be portable, Hearlys is! Once a few more get them running we MUST have an AMB real ale day/night.


----------



## warrenlw63

That is impressive Smurto... Does it come with a buxom lass to draw the pints? :icon_chickcheers: 

Now off to the shop for some Brasso.

Warren -


----------



## thelastspud

I used to work in a pub in london with 4 of these. We had Greene King IPA and fullers London Pride and the other 2 had different guest ales. Every monday morning I had to clean all the handpump lines. It was a great arm workout


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Christmas has come early! 

Inspired by the IBU Real Ale Fest on the weekend I have finally connected up the bit and pieces I received from http://www.barleybottom.com/ 

I'll run through how I plumbed everything up - as I spent a while researching it and could not find anything concise on the net







Here's the order - 3/8" OD John Guest (JG) Line, Drip Trays, 3/8" to 5/16" JG Adaptors, Sparklers, a Cask Breather, Demand Valve / Check Valve. The clear hose connects to the breather with a barb and 3/8" JG fitting to make the breather have 3/8" fittings on both sides (Paul supplied this free of charge).

My intention was to have real ale dispensed from a corny keg sitting in my keg fridge like a lot of the users on http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/index.php do - so the plumbing runs like this

GAS IN -- Existing 5/16" gas line in fridge --> JG 5/16" to 3/8" adaptor --> Breather --> 10mm hose? --> Barb / 3/8" JG Fitting --> JG 5/16" to 3/8" adaptor --> 5/16" line --> Gas QD --> Keg

BEER OUT -- Keg --> Beer QD --> 5/16 line --> JG 5/16" to 3/8" adaptor --> 3/8" line --> Demand Valve --> 1/2" silicon hose --> Beer Engine

Some pictures of the gas side












Some pictures of the beer side









The beer engine 






I pulled some beer through the engine and it all ran smoothly - I did not find any meaningful restriction from the small line or keg poppet

I did discover that the demand/check valve actually stops the beer from pouring itself (this was not the case with the other check valve I was using) - as I hooked up the engine to a keg of soda water and it still needed to be drawn by the pump

This discovery kind of leads me to think the breather itself is a bit of overkill as just a quick squirt of CO2 occasionally would probably suffice 

After a couple of pints I was able to flush the engine by connecting a carbonation cap to the QD (there are other was of achieving this) and drawing a few litres of water from a bucket 

Also worth mentioning is that the beer lost to the engine is exaggerated as the final 1/2 pint can be collected while the water starts to enter the cylinder - I doubt that I would be leaving beer in the cylinder as it is quite easy to flush the engine

Now I've just got to make a hole in the fridge for the line and secure the breather inside the fridge (polish the brass, build some sort of bar, get a chest freezer and the list goes on...)

Cheers


----------



## raven19

You could almost make a Beer engine article based on that post Cortez.

Awesome setup, with some great info on what is involved in getting one of these puppies up and running.

Well played. :icon_cheers:


----------



## gap

Hello Cortez,

I have a question. I have 2 beer engines and have not had any need for a demand valve , I use an aspirator( cask breather).

Why do you need the demand valve? 
The aspirator regulates the gas pressure into the keg at very low to minimal pressure so beer is not driven into the engine.

You need to actually pump the beer from the keg it does not flow freely.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Hi Graeme

My beer engine did not actually come with the internal check valve inside it - it had been removed - so I needed something to allow the engine to actually pump (ie the valve to close on the back stroke of the pump)

The demand valve does the job of a check valve but also this one stops the flow of liquid should it be at a higher carbonation / or even if the cask were to be higher than the engine

When I tried to run the engine with a normal check valve and a soda stream bottle the beer kept pouring itself when I gave it a squirt of CO2 

So at the end of the day it is possible to run an engine off a keg with 

1) a demand valve only using CO2 to top up the head space in the keg occasionally
2) a cask breather with a normal check valve (these are usually inside the engine)
3) both a breather and a demand valve

Hope this makes sense

Cheers


----------



## peas_and_corn

I'm bookmarking that post cortez, for if I eventually get one of my own.


----------



## Bastow

Hi, First post for me......

I currently live in London and absolutely love British ale, especially the Guest Ales at my local Weatherspoons. There is always something new and tasty to try. I am a former home brewer doing extract/fresh wort, and spirits (in Australia) . I am coming home at the end of the year and want to start AG brewing asap, as my love and respect for beer has grown exponentially whilst living here. I have been researching the price of buying a Beer Engine in Australia and it looks like its going to be $200 plus. I can get a beer engine from ebay over here for the 60 quid mark and as i'm sending a lot of stuff home in boxes by ship i will have some extra room so am thinking of buying 1 or 2 engines for my future projects. I have already got a bit of a collection of beer clips and it is going to keep growing. 

I am going to a real ale festival this weekend and i think i may be able to source a cheap engine there, fingers crossed.

What do you guys think??

Also, im not sure if this is in another thread (sorry) has anyone seen these 40 pin pressure barrels in Australia and has anyone used them?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Home-brew-Homebrew-b...#ht_1080wt_1166 

From London,

Adam


----------



## raven19

Bastow said:


> What do you guys think??



Definately grab at least one for yourself, and ship it back home.

Lots of brewers are keen for a beer engine. I am sure you may even find some takers here for excess ones if you end up with a number of them.

(Welcome to the Forums too!)


----------



## Offline

My beer engine restoration is nearly complete. 
Here are some pictures


----------



## white.grant

Nice work there Offline. That brass is super shiny.

cheers

grant


----------



## drsmurto

Tested out the beer engine today.... finally. Jaysus i am slack. Its been attached to the bar since October. :wacko: 

So slack that i got beerbelly to drill the hole in the keg lid and fit the special fittings. As he tends to do he buffed the lid so i can now see my reflection in it!

So i pulled some sanitiser through it to test it out. A few tweaks and voila, a pint of sanitiser.

Couldn't resist so i vented the keg of ESB and pulled a pint :beerbang: 

Happy days. I can now smack that last pack of WY1469 and make a batch of Landlord to properly christen her. :wub:


----------



## Frank

DrSmurto said:


> Tested out the beer engine today.... finally. Jaysus i am slack. Its been attached to the bar since October. :wacko:
> 
> So slack that i got beerbelly to drill the hole in the keg lid and fit the special fittings. As he tends to do he buffed the lid so i can now see my reflection in it!
> 
> So i pulled some sanitiser through it to test it out. A few tweaks and voila, a pint of sanitiser.
> 
> Couldn't resist so i vented the keg of ESB and pulled a pint :beerbang:
> 
> Happy days. I can now smack that last pack of WY1469 and make a batch of Landlord to properly christen her. :wub:


Nice work. It might be time for me to check how the wine is going again.


----------



## raven19

Boston said:


> Nice work. It might be time for me to check how the wine is going again.



I may need to supervise. :icon_cheers:


----------



## cdbrown

Finally got some spare time tonight and figured I should sort out the beer engines so that I can use one this weekend. Ross provided some old style corny lids which had a different relief valve setup. So with the dremel I expanded the hole to suit the bulkhead fitting. Added some washers for good measure as well. Will do the same to the other lid for the 2nd beer engine I have. Need to get hold of some different fittings so I can split the outlet of the aspirator to two kegs, but at the moment with the use of some screw clamps and 10mmx6mm line I'll be able to connect the gas up to one keg. Hopefully the english bitter I have in the fermenter will be ready for the beer engine this weekend.

The plinth on the 2nd beer engine got damaged during shipping so it's currently being glued back. Both engines have been tested but not with the check valve or aspirator, nor through the 1/2" tube which is being used as the dip tube in the keg from the lid.


----------



## Vlad the Pale Aler

I wonder how many beer engines are up and running in Perth?

1. Vlad TPA


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Just scored 2 more engines!!!

They are in fairly good nick 

Will give them a good clean etc when I get a little time

I'll post a pic when all three engines are lined up and shiny 

Cheers


----------



## mje1980

Geez gino, how many do ya need!! haha. Are you bringing one tomorrow??


----------



## Cortez The Killer

They'll look pretty cool lined up 

I think Grant is bringing his along

I won't be along till later on 

Cheers


----------



## bitterman

And I thought I had a problem


----------



## Fatgodzilla

Cortez The Killer said:


> Just scored 2 more engines!!!
> 
> They are in fairly good nick Will give them a good clean etc when I get a little time. I'll post a pic when all three engines are lined up and shiny
> 
> Cheers


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Why is everyone picking on me? 

They were a bargain - it was criminal _not_ to buy them

Imagine a Real Ale Fest without any beer engines

Your Honour I rest my case!


----------



## drsmurto

Will this real ale fest be doing a national tour CTK?

I keep telling my brother that each time he comes back to visit from the UK that he is required to bring me a beer engine. 

Imagine a bar lined with these things. :super:


----------



## Cortez The Killer

For the last couple of years "Real Ale Fest" has been a key feature of the Illawarra Brewers Union calendar 

Real ale is carbed up in casks (aka plastic cubes) and pumped from the tap on the cube through a beer engine

This was extremely popular amongst the IBU's and many members have jumped aboard the beer engine craze, even to the point where there were more beer engines attending Real Ale Fests than IBU's

This has since been curbed... somewhat

As an IBU astutely pointed out we are actually holding "Beer Engine Fests" where as in England at Real Ale Fests beer is normally dispensed directly from casks lifted onto a bar

I believe FGZ has been transporting the IBU engine about outside the Illawarra

I'm sure a discussion about beer engine world domination will ensue tomorrow at Big Ray's Big Brew Day and I'll get back to you when we have ironed out a national tour

Cheers


----------



## white.grant

Cortez The Killer said:


> Just scored 2 more engines!!!
> 
> They are in fairly good nick
> 
> Will give them a good clean etc when I get a little time
> 
> I'll post a pic when all three engines are lined up and shiny
> 
> Cheers



Nice score there CTK, is that Howmark quarter pint on the end? Looks a bit like mine but smaller. 

cheers

grant


----------



## Cortez The Killer

I think it is

I haven't had a chance to look at them closely

I believe the other one is an Angram

Cheers


----------



## cdbrown

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> I wonder how many beer engines are up and running in Perth?
> 
> 1. Vlad TPA



2. cdbrown (as of this Sunday) and then a 2nd engine in a month or so


----------



## Batz

OK these arrived today, as yet I have not even cleaned them up, far too excited !




I have hooked them up to a bucket of water and both work great, one has that sparkler thing other does not. I also have the brackets that hold a drip tray I suppose.
I would like to see a few pics if anyone else has a 'Hi-Gene' complete with the tray, and perhaps pick your brain a little regards set up.


Bragging over

Batz


----------



## Shed101

Nice stuff Batz! 

... are these little bad boys gonna see some action in a couple of weeks :wub:


----------



## michael_aussie

Batz said:


> OK these arrived today, as yet I have not even cleaned them up, far too excited !
> 
> View attachment 41743
> 
> 
> I have hooked them up to a bucket of water and both work great, one has that sparkler thing other does not. I also have the brackets that hold a drip tray I suppose.
> I would like to see a few pics if anyone else has a 'Hi-Gene' complete with the tray, and perhaps pick your brain a little regards set up.
> 
> 
> Bragging over
> 
> Batz




omg ... so jealous ........ i want one .. or two ... or three......


----------



## Batz

Shed101 said:


> Nice stuff Batz!
> 
> ... are these little bad boys gonna see some action in a couple of weeks :wub:




It would be a rough temporary set up with perhaps a Scottish Ale, but hey if you guys are keen I'll give it a go.

Batz


----------



## Shed101

Bloody oath!!! (and you won't see me write that very often  )

... you don't have real casks and correct temperatures do you?


----------



## sav

Batz said:


> OK these arrived today, as yet I have not even cleaned them up, far too excited !
> 
> View attachment 41743
> 
> 
> I have hooked them up to a bucket of water and both work great, one has that sparkler thing other does not. I also have the brackets that hold a drip tray I suppose.
> I would like to see a few pics if anyone else has a 'Hi-Gene' complete with the tray, and perhaps pick your brain a little regards set up.
> 
> 
> Bragging over
> 
> Batz



VERY NICE BATZ WHERE AND HOW DID YOU GET THEM i WOULD LOVE 1 IN THE NEW HOUSE


----------



## gap

Batz said:


> OK these arrived today, as yet I have not even cleaned them up, far too excited !
> 
> View attachment 41743
> 
> 
> I have hooked them up to a bucket of water and both work great, one has that sparkler thing other does not. I also have the brackets that hold a drip tray I suppose.
> I would like to see a few pics if anyone else has a 'Hi-Gene' complete with the tray, and perhaps pick your brain a little regards set up.
> 
> 
> Bragging over
> 
> Batz


Hello Batz,

One of my pumps is a Hi Gene . I am happy for you to PM me.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## Batz

Shed101 said:


> Bloody oath!!! (and you won't see me write that very often  )
> 
> ... you don't have real casks and correct temperatures do you?




Mmmmm, no


----------



## Shed101

So how do you dispense from a keg ... or do you put the beer in a polypin?


----------



## Batz

Shed101 said:


> So how do you dispense from a keg ... or do you put the beer in a polypin?




Page #11 Post 219 by cdbrown, looks good to me.

Batz


----------



## keifer33

The 'Real Ale' idea has kinda tickled my fancy but my question is. How does one acquire a beer engine in Australia. Im guessing they come from the UK but have ebay'd and none are shipping to Australia. Wouldnt mind setting up a simple system as im currently not kegging as I have no room but a beer engine hooked to a keg would suit me just fine.


----------



## DennisKing

Shed101 said:


> So how do you dispense from a keg ... or do you put the beer in a polypin?



I bought a beer engine 6 months ago after using gravity from polypins for years, hooked it up to said pins - result brilliant


----------



## Bribie G

AFAIK polypins are not available in Australia (bag in a box, a bit like a giant wine cask - that's the Aussie term for box wine to you Dennis - not a wooden cask  ). I had a few pints of hand pulled ales in NZ recently and they use polypins to deliver to the pubs from some of the craft breweries, and nice drop they were to. 

edit: photo of polypins of real ale as available in the Uk lucky buggers:





However the Illawarra brewers have experimented with beer kept in a plastic water cube such as we use for no chilling, under low pressure and served via hand pump, seemed to work ok. The problem is to maintain a blanket of CO2 over the beer, I think they serve theirs over a day or so at brewdays / meets. Probably mentioned in this thread, can't be arsed to go back n pages where n is a large number  You would need to look at bleeding CO2 into the headspace, using a sparklets or sodastream bulbs arrangment maybe.


----------



## DennisKing

As I`m looking to produce an English "real ale" I don`t want a highly carbonated beer. I prime with 80gms of sugar after 5-6 days it has ballooned up with a decent layer of co2. years of using polypins and a few burst ones have shown me when to let of gas to avoid a leak. End result is each pin last about 2 weeks if I`m drinking it on my own [wifes a wine drinker], keeping good condition to the end


----------



## DennisKing

heres a thread I started on a UK site a few years back

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtop...f=6&t=11340


----------



## Bribie G

golden info there Dennis. When I lived in Cardiff in the 70s CAMRA was just taking off and the local Brains pub which was a bit wanky (yes even in the 70s, and a Brains pub :lol: ) put on a cask of SA behind the counter, gravity served, to cater for the real ale professional city gents on their way home to Lisvane and other yuppie suburbs. Brains is usually served on beer engine through a tight sparkler and is smooth as mothers milk, but straight out of the cask with no head it was a completely different beer and almost fizzy to the tongue  And that's a beer that is cask conditioned with no added CO2. Not at all necesary to gas up a real ale, just a case of handling it gently to retain the naturally dissolved CO2

could go a pint of SA just now :icon_drunk:


----------



## DennisKing

Lot of people over here say gravity is the holy grail but I prefer beer via beer engines, mine does not have a sparkler but I`m thinking of buy one to sample the difference. Over here there seems to be a north south divide over sparklers and being a life long southerner I`m used to beer without one.


----------



## gap

keifer33 said:


> The 'Real Ale' idea has kinda tickled my fancy but my question is. How does one acquire a beer engine in Australia. Im guessing they come from the UK but have ebay'd and none are shipping to Australia. Wouldnt mind setting up a simple system as im currently not kegging as I have no room but a beer engine hooked to a keg would suit me just fine.



Hello,

If you are interested in using a beer engine with a keg go back and read through this thread.
I know there are a lot of posts but you will find various ways of having low carbonated beer
served from a keg through a beer engine. If you are interested in some information and photos
please PM me.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## white.grant

The IBU had one of our real ale fests last weekend. As well as a couple of engines on hand, pulling out of naturally conditioned cornies and cubes as per usual, one of our number recently returned from England with a couple of pin casks so these were pressed into service as well. 

One of the highlights of the day was the tapping of the pin  

To enjoy real ale, you don't actually need an engine (lovely though they are to have).

cheers

grant


----------



## Batz

Grantw said:


> To enjoy real ale, you don't actually need an engine (lovely though they are to have).
> 
> cheers
> 
> grant




I'm sure your correct Grant and I never thought I'll have one let along two. If your in the right place at the right time it's a nice bit of bling hey?

Now I need two 6" drip trays, sparkler and a check value, where's the best place to buy them, Dennis ?


Batz


----------



## white.grant

Batz said:


> I'm sure your correct Grant and I never thought I'll have one let along two. If your in the right place at the right time it's a nice bit of bling hey?
> 
> Now I need two 6" drip trays, sparkler and a check value, where's the best place to buy them, Dennis ?
> 
> 
> Batz



They sure are :icon_cheers: 

We've got stuff from barley bottom in the UK previously. They stock everything you can imagine and need. 

http://www.barleybottom.com/menu/&cate...Bar%20Equipment

and

http://www.barleybottom.com/menu/&cate...lar%20Equipment


----------



## gap

Batz,

There is a seller on Ebay in the UK selling them for about AUD$11.00 shipped to Australia

Regards

Graeme


----------



## KHB

I went to BYB house, he just had a hose in a freshly chilled ESB fermenter. Most memorable beer ive ever had.


----------



## Rurik

NNL brewing supplies is where I get my stuff for my hand pump. Try googling them or send Bigfridge a message.


----------



## Batz

gap said:


> Batz,
> 
> There is a seller on Ebay in the UK selling them for about AUD$11.00 shipped to Australia
> 
> Regards
> 
> Graeme




Looks the easy way out, thanks Graeme.

Batz


----------



## DennisKing

\going to my local hb shop tomorrow hoping he will have a sparkler


----------



## sav

Can I ask again where did you buy your engines from,Ebay bay doesnt have much
a responce would be nice

sav


----------



## gap

sav said:


> Can I ask again where did you buy your engines from,Ebay bay doesnt have much
> a responce would be nice
> 
> sav



Hello Sav,

I purchased both of mine from Ebay UK. Search for beer pump and specify the UK as the location.
I have not checked to see how many are listed today but there are usually a few going when ever I check.

Regards


----------



## sav

gap said:


> Hello Sav,
> 
> I purchased both of mine from Ebay UK. Search for beer pump and specify the UK as the location.
> I have not checked to see how many are listed today but there are usually a few going when ever I check.
> 
> Regards




Thanks for the response gap
sav


----------



## winkle

sav said:


> Can I ask again where did you buy your engines from,Ebay bay doesnt have much
> a responce would be nice
> 
> sav



Settle Sav, (he's probably out the back paddock mustering some hippies).


----------



## Batz

winkle said:


> Settle Sav, (he's probably out the back paddock mustering some hippies).




Out in the back paddock slashing Perry and Sav. Mate I was very lucky and happened across someone in Brissy selling them, I had given up all hope of ever owning one myself. Have said this I have learned their are a couple in a second shop in Esk, best ring first.

Batz


----------



## Jez

BribieG said:


> AFAIK polypins are not available in Australia




you can buy plastic collapsible water bags from Bunnings that look nearly exactly like polypins. I believe they work exactly the same as well.


----------



## Jez

Batz said:


> QUOTE (Shed101 @ Oct 29 2010, 07:16 PM) *
> So how do you dispense from a keg ... or do you put the beer in a polypin?
> 
> 
> 
> Page #11 Post 219 by cdbrown, looks good to me.
> 
> Batz



If you get a check valve like this one Batz:





you can connect straight to a regular corny without having to alter the lid.

I got one from Barley Belly & it works a treat.


----------



## Batz

Jez said:


> If you get a check valve like this one Batz:
> 
> View attachment 41751
> 
> 
> you can connect straight to a regular corny without having to alter the lid.
> 
> I got one from Barley Belly & it works a treat.




The suction line is 1/2", I would have thought reducing it down to the pick up tube would cause problems.

Batz


----------



## Jez

Batz said:


> The suction line is 1/2", I would have thought reducing it down to the pick up tube would cause problems.
> 
> Batz



doesn't appear to as it works fine

edit - If you have a look at Cortez' pic on page 11 at post#206 he has one installed as well.


----------



## Batz

Jez said:


> doesn't appear to as it works fine




Cheers, I better contact BB


----------



## FNQ Bunyip

you would think that with the number of these getting around now one of our site sponsers would have all the bits on hand ... 

Would love too have a beer engine setup one day ..

cheers


----------



## Shed101

Here's a fella in England using a collapsible camping container as a polypin and recycling CO2 from fermenter to keep it conditioned.

Nice thinking John.


----------



## Shed101

Another bloke who'd have some ideas on keg/handpump setups is Ashley Huntington of 2 Metre Tall Brewery in Tassie.

He fits handpumps in some of the pubs there. Not sure how he does it, but this might be useful info. to someone.


... one day i'll be doing it, but I don't get through enough beer to set things up properly. Perhaps if I had a spare fridge I could set at 10c with a 'caskalike' system.


----------



## Batz

FNQ Bunyip said:


> you would think that with the number of these getting around now one of our site sponsers would have all the bits on hand ...
> 
> 
> cheers




I'am amazed Mark's Home Brew doesn't stock this stuff, he's got everything else that a bit different.

Batz


----------



## sav

Batz said:


> Out in the back paddock slashing Perry and Sav. Mate I was very lucky and happened across someone in Brissy selling them, I had given up all hope of ever owning one myself. Have said this I have learned their are a couple in a second shop in Esk, best ring first.
> 
> Batz




Thanks batz


----------



## Rurik

> I'am amazed Mark's Home Brew doesn't stock this stuff, he's got everything else that a bit different.
> 
> Batz



Mark does stock stuff for them, he also sells reconditions ones as well.


----------



## DennisKing

DennisKing said:


> \going to my local hb shop tomorrow hoping he will have a sparkler


Was given a sparkler by Cliff the shop owner so tried a few pints with and without. Have to say although the sparkler creates a magnificent head there is a definite noticeable loss of flavor. So personally I will always choose flavor over presentation, still a decent looking pint with a fair head.


----------



## Batz

I was quoted this, price in in UK pounds



> Nozzle 2.20 each
> Trays 2.40 each
> Check valve 16 each
> Thanks
> Marcus



I have also PMed Mark and some of our sponsors to see if they carry this gear as well, no answers as yet.

Batz


----------



## bigfridge

Batz said:


> I was quoted this, price in in UK pounds
> 
> Nozzle 2.20 each
> Trays 2.40 each
> Check valve 16 each
> 
> I have also PMed Mark and some of our sponsors to see if they carry this gear as well, no answers as yet.
> 
> Batz



The answer you seek was posted a few messages back - NNL Brewery Supplies stocks handpumps, casks and all the accessories. We supplied Little Creatures, Coopers, Holgate, Wig & Pen and the Sydney and Melbourne Taphouses.

We have the following items in stock at the following prices ($ Australian)

Nozzle $3 each
Trays $8 each
Check valve $55 each

I no longer accept PM's from AHB due to the past abuse received, but you can see our products in the attached price list. Please Contact Us for more information.


David 

View attachment Cask_Dispense.pdf


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

KHB said:


> I went to BYB house, he just had a hose in a freshly chilled ESB fermenter. Most memorable beer ive ever had.




Just a couple pics on how simple it can be setting up. BTW that's not me in the photo. (I'm just a tad uglier :lol: but not by much)






KHB having a pull <_< so to speak :lol: 





Great head


:icon_chickcheers: 
BYB


----------



## raven19

Back Yard Brewer said:


> (I'm just a tad uglier :lol: but not by much)
> ...
> ...
> Great head



:icon_offtopic: Quote of the week :icon_cheers: 

Love the setup mate. The brew looks tasty too!


----------



## Effect

anyone considering bringing one to the sa case swap?


----------



## Batz

bigfridge said:


> The answer you seek was posted a few messages back - NNL Brewery Supplies stocks handpumps, casks and all the accessories. We supplied Little Creatures, Coopers, Holgate, Wig & Pen and the Sydney and Melbourne Taphouses.
> 
> We have the following items in stock at the following prices ($ Australian)
> 
> Nozzle $3 each
> Trays $8 each
> Check valve $55 each
> 
> I no longer accept PM's from AHB due to the past abuse received, but you can see our products in the attached price list. Please Contact Us for more information.
> 
> 
> David




Thanks David will order from you today.

Batz


----------



## bigfridge

Batz said:


> Thanks David will order from you today.
> 
> Batz



Cheers .... :icon_cheers:


----------



## dreamboat

If anyone is looking for a beer engine - I am getting rid of mine. Works a treat but hardly ever gets used (never in the last few years). 
Make me an offer I can't refuse - pickup Brisbane by preferred. Pictures in post 14 on page 1 of this thread. No associated keg parts come with it, there is no tray either.


dreamboat


----------



## sav

dreamboat said:


> If anyone is looking for a beer engine - I am getting rid of mine. Works a treat but hardly ever gets used (never in the last few years).
> Make me an offer I can't refuse - pickup Brisbane by preferred. Pictures in post 14 on page 1 of this thread. No associated keg parts come with it, there is no tray either.
> 
> 
> dreamboat




I am interested let me no how much bro .


----------



## dreamboat

Looks to be gone already Sav - I will let you know if anything changes.



dreamboat


----------



## sav

dreamboat said:


> Looks to be gone already Sav - I will let you know if anything changes.
> 
> 
> 
> dreamboat




Shit


----------



## Batz

Batz said:


> OK these arrived today, as yet I have not even cleaned them up, far too excited !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have hooked them up to a bucket of water and both work great, one has that sparkler thing other does not. I also have the brackets that hold a drip tray I suppose.
> I would like to see a few pics if anyone else has a 'Hi-Gene' complete with the tray, and perhaps pick your brain a little regards set up.
> 
> 
> Bragging over
> 
> Batz




OK spent a few hours today and did a recond on one of these, this is the one that had the badge on it.
I'm waiting for a reply from NNL for drip trays, check values etc, that'll finish it of nicely. I'll do the other one up when I get another spare day. :blink: 




It'll be a goer at the swap !

Batz



Batz


----------



## Shed101

:icon_drool2: :icon_cheers: :super:


----------



## NickB

Awesome Batz, now you just need a beer to pull through it..... I'm bringing an ESB in a keg most likely, but not sure how it will go being carbonated and all, but willing to offer mine up......

Cheers


----------



## Batz

NickB said:


> but willing to offer mine up......
> 
> Cheers




What's changed?


----------



## NickB

:huh:


----------



## Batz

Your ESB could be the go B)


----------



## NickB

Was waiting for another bite, but sadly no  (plus all my cock jokes ran out)

I'll pop over a little early on the day then, and we'll work out wether it'll work or not! Not sure if we'll need to de-gas or something (not in a TidalPete way though :icon_vomit: )


----------



## Batz

NickB said:


> Was waiting for another bite, but sadly no  (plus all my cock jokes ran out)
> 
> I'll pop over a little early on the day then, and we'll work out wether it'll work or not! Not sure if we'll need to de-gas or something (not in a TidalPete way though :icon_vomit: )




It was getting a bit 'Brewerhood Queensland' perhaps a bit :icon_offtopic: for the southerners.

Batz


----------



## NickB

Yep, sorry guys 

Anyway, here's my Beer Engine


----------



## Batz

dreamboat said:


> Looks to be gone already Sav - I will let you know if anything changes.
> 
> 
> 
> dreamboat




Bad luck Sav, just keep alert mate one will come up.
I must say I'm really impressed by the quality of these things, their extremely well made.

Batz


----------



## Guest Lurker

NickB said:


> Awesome Batz, now you just need a beer to pull through it..... I'm bringing an ESB in a keg most likely, but not sure how it will go being carbonated and all, but willing to offer mine up......
> 
> Cheers



To save you the trouble, that will be a disaster if it is carbed, pint glasses of froth. I know some people like to low prime/carb beer for an engine, but I find the best results in terms of taste and texture are to simply take the beer from the fermenter with the CO2 it has in it from fermentation, chill it, run it through the engine.


----------



## AndrewQLD

Guest Lurker said:


> To save you the trouble, that will be a disaster if it is carbed, pint glasses of froth. I know some people like to low prime/carb beer for an engine, but I find the best results in terms of taste and texture are to simply take the beer from the fermenter with the CO2 it has in it from fermentation, chill it, run it through the engine.



I agree with GL, a properly conditioned cask ale has 1 volume of Co2. Much better off with an uncarbed beer that is holding the Co2 under atmospheric pressure, with a sparkler you will pour a fine pint.

Andrew


----------



## Shed101

AndrewQLD said:


> with a sparkler you will pour a fine pint.



I wouldn't be using a sparkler for an ESB, though. Not to style  [insert wagging finger smiley]


----------



## Batz

Shed101 said:


> I wouldn't be using a sparkler for an ESB, though. Not to style  [insert wagging finger smiley]




Depends if your from the North or South


----------



## Shed101

Batz said:


> Depends if your from the North or South



True, that was tongue in cheek, but I always consider ESB a southern beer style... I'm the sort of idiot who asks barstewards to remove sparklers in London pubs. (Most of them don't even realise they're using them in the first place).


----------



## Batz

AndrewQLD said:


> I agree with GL, a properly conditioned cask ale has 1 volume of Co2. Much better off with an uncarbed beer that is holding the Co2 under atmospheric pressure, with a sparkler you will pour a fine pint.
> 
> Andrew




Oh well perhaps we won't have the beer engine set up for the swap


----------



## Shed101

Batz said:


> Oh well perhaps we won't have the beer engine set up for the swap



Is there no way of serving from a keg with really low carbonation?


----------



## Batz

Shed101 said:


> Is there no way of serving from a keg with really low carbonation?




I'll try de-carbonating it, but otherwise you'll have to wait until next time.


----------



## Sammus

:huh: We've served a few chilled a force carbed beers from a keg in a bucket of ice through an engine with no worries. Maybe the foam comes from restriction of drawing beer through the beer out post? We tend to just stick the hose in through the open keg lid (yes, best to fin the keg that day!) Speaking of which, unless you're using silicone hose, it's a good idea to stick a stainless barb or something on the end of the hose for a bit of weight to help it sink to the bottom properly, otherwise any bends in the hose tend to make it hard to suck up the last few pints


----------



## enuun

Hey guys,

This thread on Beer Engines has started me going on reading up some.
But the lingering questions is... with a beer engine, one need not carb beer or CO2 the keg no more during dispensing?
I have never seen one before but when I pop by melbourne in dec, I am definitely going over to holgate and drool on the bar =)


----------



## Batz

enuun said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> This thread on Beer Engines has started me going on reading up some.
> But the lingering questions is... with a beer engine, one need not carb beer or CO2 the keg no more during dispensing?
> I have never seen one before but when I pop by melbourne in dec, I am definitely going over to holgate and drool on the bar =)




You don't carb the beer at all, C02 is replaced in the keg as you pump out the beer only to equalize the pressure, ie you don't want to create a vacuum or suck in air.

Batz


----------



## sav

Batz said:


> I'll try de-carbonating it, but otherwise you'll have to wait until next time.




You can de carb it flat batz do the ross method with the valve open it forces c02 out completly.


----------



## Batz

sav said:


> You can de carb it flat batz do the ross method with the valve open it forces c02 out completly.




Don't worry possum


----------



## np1962

At last years mid year SA swap I had a bitter served on BYB's hand pump.
It had been carbed to about 1.4vols. 
Drawn through the beer out post until vacuum made it hard to pull.
Quick shot of gas to ease the pressure then away it went again.
Must of done the job as the keg was empty at the end of the night.
Cheers
Nige

Edit: Served through a sparkler as all good ales should be!


----------



## Batz

NigeP62 said:


> Edit: Served through a sparkler as all good ales should be!




Love this topic, I have two different sparklers arriving, we can try with and without.

Batz


----------



## Vlad the Pale Aler

Batz 
I had 2 of those, sold one on Ebay for a song, funny how everyone raves about them but I got very few bids.
There are some pics in this thread somewhere.


----------



## Shed101

NigeP62 said:


> Served through a sparkler as all good ales should be!




:lol: 

*can't find the southern shandy drinker clip to counter that*


----------



## Batz

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> Batz
> I had 2 of those, sold one on Ebay for a song, funny how everyone raves about them but I got very few bids.
> There are some pics in this thread somewhere.




http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...6&hl=engine

I'm really quite taken by them Vlad, actually thinking of reconditioning a few if I can find them. I have another hobby that involves polishing brass so I have all the buffs etc.

Of course I'm yet to pour a beer through it so I may find it's all too much hassle, time will tell.

Batz


----------



## Rurik

Well after sitting on my Hand Pump for almost a year, I have got the last bits to set it up. I am using a micro controlled reg set very low into a Cornie Keg through the post, through 8mm line into a check valve then into the pump itself. I have a spring loaded sparkler to close off the system to the atmosphere to keep the beer un-oxidised(if that is a word). I am having a little foaming issue, I think it is because the beer was not conditioned for the pump but rather a draft system. I also think there was a temp differentiation problems. How are people mounting theirs? I was thinking of using a small chest fridge with a collar and a temp control. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 

Rurik

Ps. Also need to get a better picture of it.


----------



## Batz

Rurik said:


> Well after sitting on my Hand Pump for almost a year, I have got the last bits to set it up. I am using a micro controlled reg set very low into a Cornie Keg through the post, through 8mm line into a check valve then into the pump itself. I have a spring loaded sparkler to close off the system to the atmosphere to keep the beer un-oxidised(if that is a word). I am having a little foaming issue, I think it is because the beer was not conditioned for the pump but rather a draft system. I also think there was a temp differentiation problems. How are people mounting theirs? I was thinking of using a small chest fridge with a collar and a temp control. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> 
> Rurik
> 
> Ps. Also need to get a better picture of it.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 41972




Looks great, you need to polish up that brass to make it look 100%.

Batz


----------



## Batz

I have finished rebuilding one of my beer engines and I'm stoked with it. Many thanks to NNL for the parts and assistance.




Before





After



Batz


----------



## AndrewQLD

Fantastic Batz, they have polished up a treat.


----------



## winkle

Noice!


----------



## Dicko ACT

Batz said:


> View attachment 42000
> 
> 
> After
> 
> Batz



Hey Batz

What did you use to fix the drip tray to the beer engine?


----------



## white.grant

Looks great Batz.

cheers

grant


----------



## Batz

Dicko ACT said:


> Hey Batz
> 
> What did you use to fix the drip tray to the beer engine?




It came with the engine, it just a bit of flat bar, easy as to make. Want a pic?

Batz


----------



## drsmurto

Batz said:


> It came with the engine, it just a bit of flat bar, easy as to make. Want a pic?
> 
> Batz



Yes please batz! 

Still to attach my drip tray.


----------



## Batz

DrSmurto said:


> Yes please batz!
> 
> Still to attach my drip tray.













Batz


----------



## yardy

Batz said:


> I have finished rebuilding one of my beer engines and I'm stoked with it. Many thanks to NNL for the parts and assistance.
> 
> 
> 
> Batz






bloody beauty that is :icon_cheers: , who's the tall skinny bloke with the elongated head reflected in that shiny handle ?

Dave


----------



## drsmurto

Thanks Batz, nice and simple. :icon_cheers:


----------



## Dicko ACT

Thanks mate. Should be pretty simple to knock up...


----------



## Innes

I picked up my beer engine today that I purchased off ebay. It's a Angram CO pump with half pint standard cylinder.




It needs a little bit of cosmetic work, but besides that it works perfectly. I hooked it up to a spare 9L keg filled with water using a 6mm barb disconnect and a length of PVC hose to the 1/2" barb on the engine to give it a test run. I was concerned after reading posts from others where they had to modify their keg lids to allow for greater flow, but I was relieved to find that mine doesn't have a problem drawing through the disconnects.

Now I just need to purchase a check valve, aspirator, a few other bits and brew a nice bitter or IPA to christen it with.


----------



## sav

Wachenfeld said:


> I picked up my beer engine today that I purchased off ebay. It's a Angram CO pump with half pint standard cylinder.
> 
> View attachment 43018
> 
> 
> It needs a little bit of cosmetic work, but besides that it works perfectly. I hooked it up to a spare 9L keg filled with water using a 6mm barb disconnect and a length of PVC hose to the 1/2" barb on the engine to give it a test run. I was concerned after reading posts from others where they had to modify their keg lids to allow for greater flow, but I was relieved to find that mine doesn't have a problem drawing through the disconnects.
> 
> Now I just need to purchase a check valve, aspirator, a few other bits and brew a nice bitter or IPA to christen it with.



How much was the freight mate and was it from the UK

sav


----------



## Innes

sav said:


> How much was the freight mate and was it from the UK
> 
> sav


I bought on eBay from a guy only a few suburbs away. Just drove to his place and picked it up.

I've been after one of these for years, but could never bring myself to buy one from the UK and pay the same or more in postage as what the item cost. But when this one came up for sale, I couldn't say no.


----------



## Offline

Rurik said:


> Well after sitting on my Hand Pump for almost a year



I bet it's a relief to be no longer sitting on that. 
Looks good, I'll have to get both of mine up and running properly. 
As far as set up advice goes I'm in the same boat as you. 

Off'y


----------



## brendo

Wachenfeld said:


> Now I just need to purchase a check valve, aspirator, a few other bits and brew a nice bitter or IPA to christen it with.



You only want an aspirator if you are planning on running it as a true cask system to avoid creating a vaccuum. I have check valves on each of mine and they run beautifully through the disconnects, I just top them up with gas as required.


----------



## JonnyAnchovy

Roughly how much are people forking our for their engines? I'm thinking of asking my better half to pick one up when she is in the UK in feb. Any tips?


----------



## slacka

JonnyAnchovy said:


> Roughly how much are people forking our for their engines? I'm thinking of asking my better half to pick one up when she is in the UK in feb. Any tips?


Get her to put as many into her luggage as she can muster. Excess luggage may still be cheaper than postage. They'll sell like hot cakes here


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

JonnyAnchovy said:


> Roughly how much are people forking our for their engines? I'm thinking of asking my better half to pick one up when she is in the UK in feb. Any tips?




Only just bought another last night and it came in at $140 aus delivered to a UK address. Mind you I could have bid instead of hitting the "Buy Now" button. If all goes to plan it should be in Aus on the 20th of this month. (along with a few other nick knacks)

BYB


----------



## Innes

JonnyAnchovy said:


> Roughly how much are people forking our for their engines?


I purchased mine for $200.



brendo said:


> You only want an aspirator if you are planning on running it as a true cask system to avoid creating a vaccuum.


I can't see the point of going to the effort and expense of purchasing a beer engine if you're not going to use it to serve cask ale.


----------



## brendo

Wachenfeld said:


> I can't see the point of going to the effort and expense of purchasing a beer engine if you're not going to use it to serve cask ale.



Yes and no... realistically and aside from parties 19l of beer is a lot to get through in a HB setting in the normal 2-3 days a cask served properly will last (good to have the option though I guess).

I can attest to the fact that served via the beer engine on a CO2 driven system certainly does a good job of changing the mouthfeel of the beer to more of a real ale feel. Would CAMRA like it - no, but then they are going to have issues with your aspirator too...


----------



## Bribie G

I noticed in Wellington last year most of their hand pumped ales are served from bag-in-a-box, which means that no oxygen gets into the beer - the bag just collapses as the beer is served. 
This was also used in the UK by Hull Breweries back in the 70s (the brewery that Ringwood Yeast originally came from)

In recent years these polypins have again become very popular in the UK. I wonder if it's possible to get them sent over in "knocked flat" form ?


----------



## NickB

Camping stores sell the 20L collapsable water containers, I was considering using one once I can acquire a beer engine, thinking of using a smallish bar fridge solely for the purpose as well....

Cheers


----------



## Shed101

NickB said:


> Camping stores sell the 20L collapsable water containers, I was considering using one once I can acquire a beer engine, thinking of using a smallish bar fridge solely for the purpose as well....
> 
> Cheers



Ditto ... except there's really no reason for a beer engine apart from for the bling and a bit of aeration through a sparkler. The main issue for me is keeping the beer fresh.


----------



## JonnyAnchovy

Wachenfeld said:


> I purchased mine for $200.
> 
> I can't see the point of going to the effort and expense of purchasing a beer engine if you're not going to use it to serve cask ale.



Isn't CAMRA divided over this? Most rational voices seem to agree that a breather that avoids the beer getting oxadised to shit is far better than an almost religious fanaticism about avoiding all CO2. Remember, it isn't artificial carbonation - it is just exuding air from the cask.

Sometimes I really feel that diehard CAMRA types aren't too far removed from Islamic fundamentalists - they are fanatically obsessed, wear strange beards, and are generally boring.









NickB said:


> Camping stores sell the 20L collapsable water containers, I was considering using one once I can acquire a beer engine, thinking of using a smallish bar fridge solely for the purpose as well....
> 
> Cheers



I'm thinking of using something precisely like this.


----------



## Shed101

Pretty sure I've posted this before - John's CO2 recycling system

If I wasn't such a lazy so&so i'd probably have a go myself.


----------



## DennisKing

one from the uk


----------



## Mayor of Mildura

DennisKing said:


> one from the uk


Hi Dennis

Nice setup. a few questions if you don't mind. Do serve directly from the polypins? i.e is there some sort of fitting from the handpump to the tap? and what about carbination? do you prime the polypins or do you use a sparkler whats the go?. Sorry for the noob questions. one of the guys had one of these at a brew day and it got me interested. and this looks like a likely addition to my brew shed at some stage.

Cheer mate


----------



## DennisKing

Yes I serve direct via a plastic tube from tap to pump, you can just see part of it going into bottom of pump. Yhe only carbimation is I prime with 80gms of sugar, move the pin somewhere slightly warmer untill it starts to expand. Then back to the garage to settle for a few days. Result is the nearest I`ve found to a pub style real ale. I do have a sparklet but as true southener prefer my beers without.


----------



## Bribie G

:icon_offtopic: Old yorkshire saying: drinking a pint without a head is like a woman kissing a man without a moustache.


----------



## Mayor of Mildura

DennisKing said:


> Yes I serve direct via a plastic tube from tap to pump, you can just see part of it going into bottom of pump. Yhe only carbimation is I prime with 80gms of sugar, move the pin somewhere slightly warmer untill it starts to expand. Then back to the garage to settle for a few days. Result is the nearest I`ve found to a pub style real ale. I do have a sparklet but as true southener prefer my beers without.



Sweet. Thanks mate.


----------



## JonnyAnchovy

Any tips on where to pick up the pins?


----------



## Bribie G

I don't think they exist in Australia, but maybe available from NZ at least. Anyone who is really serious could maybe email micros such as Townshend or Twisted Hop, they are a friendly mob and would probably point you in the right direction.


----------



## np1962

JonnyAnchovy said:


> Any tips on where to pick up the pins?


I have a 20litre collapsible water container that looks almost identical to those bags even down to the tap.
I picked it up in the camping section of BigW IIRC.
Nige


----------



## JonnyAnchovy

Cheers Nige.

Proud new owner of a pump, and need to work out precisely how I'm going to serve.


----------



## Mayor of Mildura

NigeP62 said:


> I have a 20litre collapsible water container that looks almost identical to those bags even down to the tap.
> I picked it up in the camping section of BigW IIRC.
> Nige


i saw some at bunnings that looked very similar as well.


----------



## Shed101

most camping shops sell them.


----------



## Bribie G

A bit off topic because this is not to do with the pump itself but: by logical (sort of) extension then, with a collapsible water container you'd be getting something like a : 




Which are doing great business in the UK. Now a couple of years ago the cry would be "flat beer flat beer" but with an increasing real ale appreciation "faction" in Australia nowadays this isn't such a concern. And as Dennis King posted they can seemingly take a bit of priming anyway so if served on gravity they should still have a nice mouthfeel. 

Or coupled with the mighty pocket sparkler for a creamy Cardiff head....




Might give one a burl, have the perfect fridge to store a pin in, and they sound like a similar size to a cornie.


----------



## Kodos

I've tried the camping store versions of polypins but found they were not air-tight enough to do the job properly - no carbonation stayed in the beer and if left to sit they would slowly leak beer.

I started trying a few of them out in stores by closing the tap and seeing how hard I had to squeeze the bag for air to come out - not hard it seems.

At a pinch I'd use a 10L one again for a "party keg" sort of arrangement, filling it fresh from a cold-conditioned fermenter (cold enough so some CO2 stays in solution during transfer). but there must be some difference between the taps on the camping ones and the dedicated beer polypins in the UK.

I did come across this store online at one point

Bag-in-box online

They look like single-use bags, but for less than $A3 for a 20L bag (with tap) they could be a good option.

I didn't go down this path in the end 'cause corny kegs are more versatile, and I was happy keeping a blanket of CO2 on the beer using a little keg charger.

I'm giving the beer engine a rest over summer anyway, since the 1/2-pint of beer remaining in the engine gets a bit nasty if left too long. It's not an issue in winter it seems (below "cellar temperature" in my shed at least!).

cheers


----------



## JonnyAnchovy

Is there any real advantage then in using a bag over a corny, aside from the convenience of not having to hook up gas or a demand valve/ breather?


----------



## Innes

When cleaning the beer engine, how do you get the remaining water out of the system.

When I finished using my beer engine, I pumped some clean water through it, then some sanitiser and then clean water again. 

When I pull the handle, a few drips of water still come out of the hose barb and the neck and it makes a gurgling sound.

Is there usually a drain screw on them?


----------



## DennisKing

JonnyAnchovy said:


> Is there any real advantage then in using a bag over a corny, aside from the convenience of not having to hook up gas or a demand valve/ breather?



For me the advantage is I get a beer in a cask condition or real ale style rather than a keg beer. I know this is a very British thing and probably you guys are more used to a higher carbonated beer but one of the reasons I started brewing was to have a beer at home the same as I drink in a decent pub. These polypins are used by a lot of brewery's over here to sell their beer for the take home market as they will go for a couple of weeks no problem. Even the odd pub will use them if they have a slow turnover of cask beer as they won`t go off like a conventional cask.


----------



## Innes

Wachenfeld said:


> When cleaning the beer engine, how do you get the remaining water out of the system.
> 
> When I finished using my beer engine, I pumped some clean water through it, then some sanitiser and then clean water again.
> 
> When I pull the handle, a few drips of water still come out of the hose barb and the neck and it makes a gurgling sound.
> 
> Is there usually a drain screw on them?


Any Help?


----------



## white.grant

Wachenfeld said:


> When cleaning the beer engine, how do you get the remaining water out of the system.
> 
> When I finished using my beer engine, I pumped some clean water through it, then some sanitiser and then clean water again.
> 
> When I pull the handle, a few drips of water still come out of the hose barb and the neck and it makes a gurgling sound.
> 
> Is there usually a drain screw on them?




Mine is not in constant service so I dismantle the cylinder and wash and dry all parts before putting it back together.

cheers

grant


----------



## Rurik

To clean my engin I run some cleaing solution through it(sodium percabonate), then flush with water. Every so oftern (about once a year) I pull apart and clean & lube in the same way I do my draft system.


----------



## wakkatoo

Got to join this group today when a much-anticpated pacakge arrived! In our little B.A.R group that makes 4 engines with possibly another 4 on the way B) 

Think I did alright with my purchase, the manufacture date is 01/11. Given that and the condition its in (not a mark/stain) I'm guessing its almost brand new. Got a jacket to pump chilled water around, not sure I'll use it and I've already pulled some beer through. 

A very happy chappy


----------



## vic45

wakkatoo said:


> ! In our little B.A.R group that makes 4 engines with possibly another 4 on the way B)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 48455
> View attachment 48456



Word on the street is there could be as many as 6 more on the way! :icon_chickcheers:


----------



## Jase

After missing out on several engines on ebay, I got chatting to one of the sellers, a couple of weeks later, he emailed me saying he had a brand new Angram engine. After a few emails back and forth, the engine was mine. The package was shipped Monday night, and I received it yesterday, only 4 day shipping. The seller, who shall remain nameless, threw in a few freebies, an aspirator and demand valve!!!!!  

Anyway, you know what they say about a picture!












Cheers,
Jase


----------



## wakkatoo

Some of us from BAR were in talks with a local chap who brought back an old bank of beer engines in a shipment from the UK.

Long story short, he's a bit of a PITA trying to take us for a ride. He wanted $500 for the bank of 4 or individually for $150 (he ignored the fact one is missing a key piece). I'm walking away from it as I have a brand new angram that doens't get the use it really should!

If you want to try you luck, they are located out buninyong way near ballarat and I wouldn't pay more than $400 for the lot or $120ea.

Pic below of the bank and the missing part. I don't have any better of the bank sorry.


----------



## Offline

Having pulled apart and restored something similar, I would not recommend buying them individually.

You would need to mount them in a very similar fashion to how they are in the cabinet. Im not saying that it cant be done just that it would take a lot of work to get it all lined up and working properly, probably beyond my ability and/or patience 

Offy


----------



## mxd

I keep looking at them for "display" occasional use, but the prices is generally exy, I've looked in the UK and most need 100 quid for postage.


----------



## winkle

Not bad for $100, needs driptray and seal kit.
I'll have to start brewing more bitters


----------



## NickB

Bastard! Where did you score that??!


----------



## winkle

NickB said:


> Bastard! Where did you score that??!


Just up the road from your place  
ebay


----------



## NickB

Damn!


----------



## glennheinzel

This isn't the greatest picture in the world, but I think you get the idea. 

This beer engine was advertised as brand new and I managed to pick it up off ebay for 25 + 20 for postage (I'm in the UK). I was disappointed when it turned up as it was used and wasn't clean at all. Whilst I was prepared to wear the 8 for a new seal kit (www.barleybottom.com), I wasn't happy when I pulled the handle down and noticed a vinegary smell. In the end the person refunded both the cost of the item and the postage.

A quick polish has done wonders for the stainless steel and a soaking in PBW has cleaned up the vinegary smell. I've just ordered an oil filter strap off ebay so I should be able to open the beer engine cylinder soon for a further soak and replacement of seals etc. 

I recently did my maiden UK brew (a TTLL clone) and I've got the ingredients for a SNPA clone. I should be right to serve the TTLL at my housewarming in a few weeks time.

Happy brewing all.


----------



## NickB

Really want one of these...

Anyone know where in Aus I can possibly acquire one....

Cheers


----------



## Batz

NickB said:


> Really want one of these...
> 
> Anyone know where in Aus I can possibly acquire one....
> 
> Cheers




mmmmmmmmmm

Nope


----------



## Rurik

Batz said:


> mmmmmmmmmm
> 
> Nope



Try MHB


----------



## Innes

I'm now the proud owner of a 4.5 Gal pin (cask). Can't wait till I can hook it up to my beer engine.




Does anyone know where I can purchase shives, spiles and keystones for it? I've found a few places in the UK and US but none will ship internationally.


----------



## Batz

Wachenfeld said:


> I'm now the proud owner of a 4.5 Gal pin (cask). Can't wait till I can hook it up to my beer engine.
> 
> View attachment 53672
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I can purchase shives, spiles and keystones for it? I've found a few places in the UK and US but none will ship internationally.




I watched that one on ebay, I'll be interested in what you do with it as I have one as well.

batz


----------



## Rowy

I have access to an empty one if I want it as well. Just can't come up with an idea for it.


----------



## Malted

Wachenfeld said:


> Does anyone know where I can purchase shives, spiles and keystones for it? I've found a few places in the UK and US but none will ship internationally.



I have bought aspirators and shit from the UK no worries, just can't remember exactly where from atm; will have to check on the work computer tomorrow... <_<


----------



## billygoat

Try Barley Bottom in Keighley, the home town of Timothy Taylor.
I have bought off him a few times without any problems.


----------



## Innes

Batz said:


> I watched that one on ebay, I'll be interested in what you do with it as I have one as well.


I purchased a book from the UK on cellarmanship and thought I'd give brewing and cellaring cask ale a try for myself.

I've done it several times with corny kegs but I wanted to get a proper cask, but its not exactly something you can just walk into your LHBS and buy every day. Getting one from the UK was going to cost far to much and when I saw this one, I thought I'd have a go.

I've seen several 8+ Gal casks available on ebay and other places, but I thought they were to big for what I want to do. Its just another part of the art of brewing I want to experiment with.


----------



## Malted

Wachenfeld said:


> Does anyone know where I can purchase shives, spiles and keystones for it? I've found a few places in the UK and US but none will ship internationally.



http://www.barleybottom.com/menu/&cate...lar%20Equipment - I _think_ i bought my stuff from these guys. Keystones, shives, pegs, cask taps etc on this page linked to. Probably need to email to confirm postage.

http://www.cfbsonline.co.uk/ - you can purchase using paypal & def ship internationally.

http://www.beerengines.com/products.htm these guys are actually 'Centriflow Services Ltd', I have had email dealings with them.


----------



## winkle

Wachenfeld said:


> I'm now the proud owner of a 4.5 Gal pin (cask). Can't wait till I can hook it up to my beer engine.
> 
> View attachment 53672
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I can purchase shives, spiles and keystones for it? I've found a few places in the UK and US but none will ship internationally.


Ring up Ross at Craftbrewer, or contact Big Fridge (NNL).


----------



## Jez

I've got stuff from Barley Bottom before as well. They were very good to deal with.


----------



## winkle

Reassembled my one today after stripping it back to clean, paint and polish it a bit earlier during the week.
before



after..




can't wait for the seal kit etc to arrive


----------



## DKS

Ready for July swap Winkle? Tried a beer or seven at Batz's for the first time some time back. Thought it was the ducks guts. I want one!
We need a local manufacturer. They'd sell like hot cakes I reckon.
Daz


----------



## Bribie G

Hey Winkle would you like me to bring a cube of finished, fined and as carbed as the cube will allow TTL style for your case swap?

When I was in Welly I noted that they serve most of their hand pumped ales out of polypins which are just collapsible cubes.


----------



## winkle

Bribie G said:


> Hey Winkle would you like me to bring a cube of finished, fined and as carbed as the cube will allow TTL style for your case swap?
> 
> When I was in Welly I noted that they serve most of their hand pumped ales out of polypins which are just collapsible cubes.


Hmmm, I think Nick is bring a mild as well, and I'll have a strong bitter on, but if think we can go through 3 kegs then whynot


----------



## white.grant

Nice job on the refurb there Winkle. That's an interesting looking spout there too, quite short and flat. I have a homark which has a similar spout and I've been wondering why.


----------



## winkle

Grantw said:


> Nice job on the refurb there Winkle. That's an interesting looking spout there too, quite short and flat. I have a homark which has a similar spout and I've been wondering why.


Its cause, like me, they are bloody old


----------



## bigfridge

Grantw said:


> That's an interesting looking spout there too, quite short and flat. I have a homark which has a similar spout and I've been wondering why.



'Tis a Norf and Sowth ting 'guvnor I beleive ...


----------



## white.grant

bigfridge said:


> 'Tis a Norf and Sowth ting 'guvnor I beleive ...



And there I was thinking it was just sparklers  .

I did a bit o googling and the difference can be explained as 

"The effect of a swan neck isn't due to the extra distance the beer travels, it is due to the outlet being submerged. This causes the beer to exit at a higher speed (the Bernoulli principle apparently) thus causing a drop in pressure at the exit from the swan neck which in turn causes CO2 to break out of solution - these small bubbles rise up through the beer to form the tight head and draw aroma out. Details paraphrased from "Cellarmanship" by Patrick O'Neill."

The shorter spout will give you a looser head (ie southern style)

alternatively some are more passionate like the craft brewing association

_It can't be emphasised enough that you should use the correct beer engine for the style of beer. Beer engines have two styles of neck, the swan neck and standard neck. Swan necks do untold damage to beers with a flowery hoppy aroma knocking the aroma out of the beer. The second feature which affects the beer is the sparkler. Sparklers force the beer through many small orifices producing a tight frothy head on the beer. Northern style beers (eg Tetley) should be dispensed through beer engines with a swan neck using a sparkler and produce an excellent pint that way. Southern style beers (eg Fuller's London Pride) should NOT be dispensed via a swan neck and certainly not through a sparkler. The result of this is of course, that Southern beers are not served with a head. Southern beers served in the northern manner are lifeless travesties of beers, whilst served in the proper manner they are a revelation, a wholly different beer. So the moral is get the beer engine appropriate to the style of beer you have brewed._

So its spouts for courses. Luckily you can get spout extensions!


----------



## winkle

After due consideration, I'll be running this with a check valve and a breather valve/aspirator from the gas bottle for normal home use and straight pull from the cask for parties. What is that noise outside?????......



Ok, just the check valve?


----------



## Batz

winkle said:


> Reassembled my one today after stripping it back to clean, paint and polish it a bit earlier during the week.
> before
> View attachment 53905
> 
> after..
> View attachment 53906
> 
> View attachment 53907
> 
> can't wait for the seal kit etc to arrive




That looks great Perry.

If you want sparklers and stuff Marks Homebrew stock them.

batz


----------



## winkle

Friggin thing won't mount on the bar without major surgery, so work has started on the mobile handpump bar.
Step one.


Step two - re-tile, stain, balance and strengthen.......
Once that is done I should be able to drag it along to the odd brewday.


----------



## Batz

winkle said:


> Friggin thing won't mount on the bar without major surgery, so work has started on the mobile handpump bar.
> Step one.
> View attachment 54481
> 
> Step two - re-tile, stain, balance and strengthen.......
> Once that is done I should be able to drag it along to the odd brewday.




Its got wheels !

Take in on the next pub crawl.


----------



## winkle

Batz said:


> Its got wheels !
> 
> Take in on the next pub crawl.



It'd make the walk from Bitter Suite to Vroom easier


----------



## NickB

+3


----------



## Thefatdoghead

Hi Gent's/ladies,

I had a pretty good read of this thread as I have a nice beer engine on it's way. I like doing things nice and easy so I was wondering how people are going with the aspirators and check valves? I fully understand how the aspirators work and see them being great if you don't want to drink a keg in one hit but wouldn't you have to clean the pump after a session anyway? Maybe it would be easier just to have it on the go and polish off a keg in one night? 
The check valve I don't really understand? What I thought is do you need one if the pump has not got one installed already for the back stroke? 

Another idea I was thinking of is instead of having an aspirator would you get away with a pin cask (or a camping water cask 20L) full off C02 attached to the gas in on the keg instead of an aspirator? 

Thanks for the help.
Gav


----------



## sean83

Gav80 said:


> Hi Gent's/ladies,
> 
> I had a pretty good read of this thread as I have a nice beer engine on it's way. I like doing things nice and easy so I was wondering how people are going with the aspirators and check valves? I fully understand how the aspirators work and see them being great if you don't want to drink a keg in one hit but wouldn't you have to clean the pump after a session anyway? Maybe it would be easier just to have it on the go and polish off a keg in one night?
> The check valve I don't really understand? What I thought is do you need one if the pump has not got one installed already for the back stroke?
> 
> Another idea I was thinking of is instead of having an aspirator would you get away with a pin cask (or a camping water cask 20L) full off C02 attached to the gas in on the keg instead of an aspirator?
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> Gav



Hey Gav, just a quick query, where did you purchase your beer engine / pump from? Very keen to get one but am finding it a little harder to source them.

Cheers Sean


----------



## Malted

Gav80 said:


> Another idea I was thinking of is instead of having an aspirator would you get away with a pin cask (or a camping water cask 20L) full off C02 attached to the gas in on the keg instead of an aspirator?



Do you need to add C02 to a goon bag as you empty it? Same deal with a polypin I am led to believe. I am a few weeks away from trying it myself.

If you have a polypin or a collapsible water container, why add CO2 to it? Do a secondary ferment in it if you want, or go straight from the fermenter to the polypin and serve at low carb. As you pump out the bag will shrink, no C02 addition needed.


----------



## Malted

sean83 said:


> Hey Gav, just a quick query, where did you purchase your beer engine / pump from? Very keen to get one but am finding it a little harder to source them.
> 
> Cheers Sean


Reasonably easy to purchase, it just depends on how much you're willing to pay.

Postage from the UK should be about 75 quid plus whatever you pay for the beer engine. You can get a new EWLbeer engine for 99 quid or a second hand one off eBay for 40 quid if you're lucky. There is a source in Australia who is a distributer for an English mob who recondition them; IIRC NNL brewery services will do a recon unit for $450 AUD or so - best confirm this with them yourself. Plenty of options so price is the consideration. Heck if money was no object you could buy a brand new Angram beer engine from the UK.


----------



## sean83

Malted said:


> Reasonably easy to purchase, it just depends on how much you're willing to pay.
> 
> Postage from the UK should be about 75 quid plus whatever you pay for the beer engine. You can get a new EWLbeer engine for 99 quid or a second hand one off eBay for 40 quid if you're lucky. There is a source in Australia who is a distributer for an English mob who recondition them; IIRC NNL brewery services will do a recon unit for $450 AUD or so - best confirm this with them yourself. Plenty of options so price is the consideration. Heck if money was no object you could buy a brand new Angram beer engine from the UK.



Cheers Malted,

Yeah have looked at the UK route - convincing swmbo is another story. Price obviously is a factor. Will keep trauling ebay.


----------



## Thefatdoghead

I got mine through a mate who works for heavertree in the U.K for 90 pounds so I was pretty stoked with that, I also was on a site called Angram if you wanted to look there for them they had some pretty sweet pumps. 

Hey Malted what I mean is serving from a keg and having the C02 blanket on the top of the keg. If I had a Polly I would just use it as you say but from reading this thread it seems those water containers from camping stores etc don't really seal 100% although I thought I might get away using one of those instead of spending $100 on a aspirator. So the bag conected to the gas in which is filled with co2 at atmospheric pressure and use a cpc fitting through the keg lid into the pump, as you pump the co2 is drawn from the bag into the keg.

Anyway I might just grab the camping store water bag and fill it with co2 see how it goes. 

Cheers guys


----------



## Malted

Gav80 said:


> I got mine through a mate who works for heavertree in the U.K for 90 pounds so I was pretty stoked with that, I also was on a site called Angram if you wanted to look there for them they had some pretty sweet pumps.
> 
> Hey Malted what I mean is serving from a keg and having the C02 blanket on the top of the keg. If I had a Polly I would just use it as you say but from reading this thread it seems those water containers from camping stores etc don't really seal 100% although I thought I might get away using one of those instead of spending $100 on a aspirator. So the bag conected to the gas in which is filled with co2 at atmospheric pressure and use a cpc fitting through the keg lid into the pump, as you pump the co2 is drawn from the bag into the keg.
> 
> Anyway I might just grab the camping store water bag and fill it with co2 see how it goes.
> 
> Cheers guys



I still don't understand why you want the CO2 in a bag. Are you collecting it during brewing to recycle the CO2 you are producing?


----------



## Thefatdoghead

Malted said:


> I still don't understand why you want the CO2 in a bag. Are you collecting it during brewing to recycle the CO2 you are producing?


If you suck beer out of a keg you draw in air (because you don't have c02 pressure from bottle). Air will oxidise beer as you know so I want to create a layer of c02 without force carbonating the beer over time.


----------



## Wolfy

Gav80 said:


> If you suck beer out of a keg you draw in air (because you don't have c02 pressure from bottle). Air will oxidise beer as you know so I want to create a layer of c02 without force carbonating the beer over time.


The idea behind the bag (Polypin) is that it collapses as the beer is drawn out (either through the beer pump or via gravity) so there is no headspace and no oxygen to worry about.
I'm not sure what brands of bags/polypins are available locally (and have not yet tried my ebay one) but some of the guys on the JBK UK based forums use them successfully so you may like to check their setups.


----------



## DennisKing

Wolfy said:


> The idea behind the bag (Polypin) is that it collapses as the beer is drawn out (either through the beer pump or via gravity) so there is no headspace and no oxygen to worry about.
> I'm not sure what brands of bags/polypins are available locally (and have not yet tried my ebay one) but some of the guys on the JBK UK based forums use them successfully so you may like to check their setups.



I use my polypin and hand pump as Wolfy describes. Personally I find it as close to UK pub real ale as I have found in the home brew environment. I have posted this photo before but here it is again.


----------



## craigev

Anyone figured out how to integrate a beer engine into a fridge yet ? or is it impossible. I assume its been thought of, but strangely no one seems to have said anything about it. stupid idea i suppose logistically.


----------



## Thefatdoghead

DennisKing said:


> I use my polypin and hand pump as Wolfy describes. Personally I find it as close to UK pub real ale as I have found in the home brew environment. I have posted this photo before but here it is again.


 I have seen your set-up before mate very nice. I don't really want to bother with polly pins I just want to dispense from kegs. Just don't wan't to spend the money on a aspirator etc but now thinking about it i'll probably just use the beer pump at parties and go through whole kegs if the co2 in a bag thing doesn't work. 
If I can get hold of some proper polly pins ill give them a go some day.

Cheers


----------



## Lachlan J

I'm be joining the Beer Engine club in a week or two, it's on its way from the UK right now :beer: 

I was thinking.. I've got lots of those 1.5L grolsh bottles at home. Do you recon I could pop one of those open, dip the tube in from the engine and pump out 3 pints? Basically treat it like a micro keg...?


----------



## Rurik

zedish said:


> I'm be joining the Beer Engine club in a week or two, it's on its way from the UK right now :beer:
> 
> I was thinking.. I've got lots of those 1.5L grolsh bottles at home. Do you recon I could pop one of those open, dip the tube in from the engine and pump out 3 pints? Basically treat it like a micro keg...?



I have been thinking of doing the same thing with growlers. Condition in the keg, push across into growler the dip tube in and through beer engine.


----------



## vic45

zedish said:


> I'm be joining the Beer Engine club in a week or two, it's on its way from the UK right now :beer:
> 
> I was thinking.. I've got lots of those 1.5L grolsh bottles at home. Do you recon I could pop one of those open, dip the tube in from the engine and pump out 3 pints? Basically treat it like a micro keg...?



Yes this will work well. We often serve small amounts of different Beers like this at B.A.R. Craftbrewers events.
Just don't overcarb.


----------



## spog

for anyone interested the brewing network had a show on beer engines/cask beer recently,2 wks ago i think.

cheers.......spog........


----------



## willham

Doc said:


> There seem to be two spare fittings. I guess one could be used if you didn't want to use the 1/2" fitting. Not sure on the reason for the third.
> 
> Beers,
> Doc



Are the two fittings for "water in" "water out" for cooling cavity. I had a couple of these engines. I live in England and there's a lot of pubs closing due to smoking ban, so plenty available here.


----------



## super_simian

"Due to smoking ban" really, are poms that addicted to cancer sticks they'd rather not go to the pub than go and not smoke? No wonder they needed help not to lose 2 wars...


----------



## willham

super_simian said:


> "Due to smoking ban" really, are poms that addicted to cancer sticks they'd rather not go to the pub than go and not smoke? No wonder they needed help not to lose 2 wars...



Yeah that's right. If only we had the courage to go to the pub just to drink. You aussies are so brave.
And name a country that started with, and still has less culture than yeast. :lol:


----------



## spudfarmerboy

Hello Willham,
Just ignore the previous poster, most people are pretty friendly on this forum.


----------



## willham

spudfarmerboy said:


> Hello Willham,
> Just ignore the previous poster, most people are pretty friendly on this forum.



To be fair, I think the banter is great. There is never bad feelings between us, but I think we should still have the blaggard. Its what makes us who we are.


----------



## Thefatdoghead

Got this yesterday. 90 pounds and it work perfectly. Im not going to bother with check valves or aspirators at the moment im just going to give it a run on a keg of beer and see how it goes. 4 guys and an afternoon should get through a keg no worries.


----------



## Wolfy

Gav80 said:


> Got this yesterday. 90 pounds and it work perfectly. Im not going to bother with check valves or aspirators at the moment im just going to give it a run on a keg of beer and see how it goes.


Same as what I did for my new brother-in-law the day after his wedding:




They made me brew the beer for the wedding, so I left him the keg/pump and just undid the PRV a bit - told him he'd better finish the keg within a couple of weeks.


----------



## Thefatdoghead

Wolfy said:


> Same as what I did for my new brother-in-law the day after his wedding:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They made me brew the beer for the wedding, so I left him the keg/pump and just undid the PRV a bit - told him he'd better finish the keg within a couple of weeks.


Nice and shiny too . I'll polish mine up when I get the chance. I have made a sort of American amber with 1469 for the christening so should be a good day. I didn't think it would last more than 2 day without getting oxidised let alone 2 weeks? Just what I assumed is all.


----------



## Batz

I bought check valves and aspirators and have never fitted them. For me the beer engine is for parties where it will all be drank in one night, and up until now that's just what has happened.

Batz


----------



## winkle

Batz said:


> I bought check valves and aspirators and have never fitted them. For me the beer engine is for parties where it will all be drank in one night, and up until now that's just what has happened.
> 
> Batz


It gets dangerous when there's only two of you at the party  .


----------



## Batz

winkle said:


> It gets dangerous when there's only two of you at the party  .




I'm going to put my Hobgoblin in two 9lt kegs for that exact reason. I want to get stuck into them over Xmas, I'll have my sons here to help out.

Batz


----------



## Thefatdoghead

Batz said:


> I bought check valves and aspirators and have never fitted them. For me the beer engine is for parties where it will all be drank in one night, and up until now that's just what has happened.
> 
> Batz


Yeah I reckon thats the go. Parties and special occasions etc and just polish off a keg i a day or whatever. Although if you ever wanted to sell your aspirator i'll buy it.


----------



## markymoo

Gents, 

How do you keep the cylinder at a decent temperature? 

I live in Perth and was going to mount my hand-pull on the side of my fridge, for continuous use, but really the 1/4pint in the cylinder is going to sit there getting manky between sessions.

Or do you guys only get the engine out for special events and give them a clean out the day after before "storage'?

Or is it that you just don't care about the first 1/4pint and go from after that one has been cleared?

Markymoo


----------



## Batz

markymoo said:


> Gents,
> 
> How do you keep the cylinder at a decent temperature?
> 
> I live in Perth and was going to mount my hand-pull on the side of my fridge, for continuous use, but really the 1/4pint in the cylinder is going to sit there getting manky between sessions.
> 
> Or do you guys only get the engine out for special events and give them a clean out the day after before "storage'?
> 
> Or is it that you just don't care about the first 1/4pint and go from after that one has been cleared?
> 
> Markymoo




I put mine in a plastic rubbish bin with one bag of ice, it's possiably a bit cold for the style.....but hell it's Australia here.
Cleaning I just pump water through it then a bit of PBW and let that sit, then flush with water again.
My beer engine is defiantly a special event thing....as Winkle said, two or more brewers.  

Batz


----------



## Wolfy

Gav80 said:


> Nice and shiny too . I'll polish mine up when I get the chance. I have made a sort of American amber with 1469 for the christening so should be a good day. I didn't think it would last more than 2 day without getting oxidised let alone 2 weeks? Just what I assumed is all.


Actually it's not, but the Brasso that I got from mum had not been used for so long it had solidified and I didn't buy more to shine it up before the wedding.


----------



## Jez

markymoo said:


> Gents,
> 
> How do you keep the cylinder at a decent temperature?
> 
> I live in Perth and was going to mount my hand-pull on the side of my fridge, for continuous use, but really the 1/4pint in the cylinder is going to sit there getting manky between sessions.
> 
> Or do you guys only get the engine out for special events and give them a clean out the day after before "storage'?
> 
> Or is it that you just don't care about the first 1/4pint and go from after that one has been cleared?
> 
> Markymoo



Fit a john guest valve via t-piece to your beer line. Disconnect the beer line from keg and open the valve when you pull your last pint and you'll pull air thru and empty most of the beer from the line into your glass. It works well.

Jez


----------



## keifer33

Damn you people with Beer Engines. I told myself I really don't need one but I am doubting this now.


----------



## winkle

markymoo said:


> Gents,
> 
> How do you keep the cylinder at a decent temperature?
> 
> I live in Perth and was going to mount my hand-pull on the side of my fridge, for continuous use, but really the 1/4pint in the cylinder is going to sit there getting manky between sessions.
> 
> Or do you guys only get the engine out for special events and give them a clean out the day after before "storage'?
> 
> Or is it that you just don't care about the first 1/4pint and go from after that one has been cleared?
> 
> Markymoo



This-


> Or do you guys only get the engine out for special events and give them a clean out the day after before "storage'?


----------



## Thefatdoghead

Well im a VERY happy man! I just racked this American amber with 1469 to the keg and let sit for the day while I brewed but the engine got the best of me so I just had to try it. I thought the beer would be to green but oh how I was wrong it's a cracker and tastes even better through the engine :beerbang: 





It's really strange how the beer tastes so different from the engine as apposed to straight from the fermentor valve or beer tap.


----------



## adryargument

Gav80 said:


> Well im a VERY happy man! I just racked this American amber with 1469 to the keg and let sit for the day while I brewed but the engine got the best of me so I just had to try it. I thought the beer would be to green but oh how I was wrong it's a cracker and tastes even better through the engine :beerbang:
> 
> View attachment 58995
> 
> 
> It's really strange how the beer tastes so different from the engine as apposed to straight from the fermentor valve or beer tap.



Was that engine from fleabay or something similiar? i remember seeing it at one point 
Trying to find one now that does not cost $120 pound shipping.


----------



## Thefatdoghead

adryargument said:


> Was that engine from fleabay or something similiar? i remember seeing it at one point
> Trying to find one now that does not cost $120 pound shipping.


No. My wife is a pom so Iv'e got good connections with free shipping when the mother in-law visits. Always getting glasses and beers. Cost me 90 pounds all up. It has a jacket for cooling which will come in handy in this despicable heat!


----------



## adryargument

Gav80 said:


> No. My wife is a pom so Iv'e got good connections with free shipping when the mother in-law visits. Always getting glasses and beers. Cost me 90 pounds all up. It has a jacket for cooling which will come in handy in this despicable heat!



If i buy your mother in law a beer will i be able to get my beer engine on too?


----------



## Batz

adryargument said:


> If i buy your mother in law a beer will i be able to get my beer engine on too?





> Always getting glasses and beers.



Buy the mother in law, I'll go you halves as long as she lives with you.


----------



## adryargument

Batz said:


> Buy the mother in law, I'll go you halves as long as she lives with you.



Shes English, i don't have that much loose change.


----------



## Thefatdoghead

adryargument said:


> If i buy your mother in law a beer will i be able to get my beer engine on too?


Mate I had to marry her daughter to get her to bring one back so good luck with the beer


----------



## np1962

Adelaide brewers get together featured 5 Beer Engines on Saturday night.


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Nice!


----------



## Batz

NigeP62 said:


> IMG_0679.JPG
> 
> Adelaide brewers get together featured 5 Beer Engines on Saturday night.



That is impressive, well done guys.


----------



## cdbrown

Batz - any chance you might want to sell your aspirator? After getting the right fittings I hooked mine up and unfortunately had to quickly disconnect as it leaked gas. Seemed to have damaged the black seal that's under the plastic cap. I've hooked up my 2 engines on the beer side but need to sort out the tubing better (reduce the length) and also put some clamps on the silicone hose where it connects to the demand valve as it's only a stem connection rather than barb.


----------



## Batz

cdbrown said:


> Batz - any chance you might want to sell your aspirator? After getting the right fittings I hooked mine up and unfortunately had to quickly disconnect as it leaked gas. Seemed to have damaged the black seal that's under the plastic cap. I've hooked up my 2 engines on the beer side but need to sort out the tubing better (reduce the length) and also put some clamps on the silicone hose where it connects to the demand valve as it's only a stem connection rather than barb.



No I think I'll hang onto it, I'm just as likely to use it one day. 

Batz


----------



## leahy268

So anyway saw this thread the other day and showed SWMBO a picture of a beer engine.
She commented 'oh that's cool' which I'm going to liberally interpret as 'You can commence purchase'.
So I have a couple of questions for everyone.

1. Where would I look to buy a cask? Probably not the would kind (Too much maintenance)..
2. I have a mate that regularly travels to England (Previously lived there). He often goes back for a week or so. He would happily bring one back for me in his suitcase.
Might cost me a few pints but that would be easy.
Ebay the best location to buy from? 
Any pitfalls?

Every few years my extended family get together for Easter or Christmas or something. Would love to be able to put on a cask conditioned ale for a gathering like that.
Would rather enjoy putting a cask on for a fair few other occasions as well come to think of it.

I look forward to hearing from those that use them currently.


----------



## CosmicBertie

Plastic, collapsible water carrier, with a couple of hose pipe connectors to allow for quick connecting/disconnecting. Works a treat and you dont have to worry about aspiration of the 'keg'.


----------



## leahy268

Cosmic Bertie said:


> Plastic, collapsible water carrier, with a couple of hose pipe connectors to allow for quick connecting/disconnecting. Works a treat and you dont have to worry about aspiration of the 'keg'.


Tempted to try that one for a start of course. How does everyone find them. Earlier reports were talking about leaking and so forth.

But say I did oneday want to make a 'real' cask of ale up does anyone have a source for them?


----------



## Innes

As I don't have a bar at home to attach my beer engine to, I went down the path of designing and constructing a purpose built stand.

The initial design started out being a simple stand to hold the beer engine at a comfortable height, but over time it evolved (as all these projects tend to do) into an enclosed stand which not only held the keg, but also kept it cool.

The stand is made from aluminium square tubing and aluminium plate, welded, riveted and sealed








The top is made from laminated hardwood benchtop which I treated with a food grade wood oil




Into the back of the stand, I installed a thermoelectric cooling unit form an old cooler bag. It runs on 12V DC and has a plug pack wall adaptor. The specs say it can cool down to 20°C below ambient, but I intend using it to maintain the temperature of the keg, rather than cooling the keg from warm.




The cooling unit will also keep all the lines and the beer engine cylinder cool as well. I still need to line the inside with some insulation foam. The stand is big enough to fit a standard cornie keg.




The stand now takes pride of place next to the beer fridge.


----------



## wakkatoo

Nice piece of kit Innes, really like it. Well done.


----------



## chillamacgilla73

Gday Leahy

I was in uk in June/July this year and bought a reconditioned angram CQ model delivered to inlaws in london for ~$230. Exchange rate took a dive since I bought it but even still, depending your budget, I'm of the belief if the manufacturer has rebuilt the unit it must be good quality. So far so good.

Cosmic Bertie-I'm liking the collapsible water carrier idea...I've been trying to order all the plumbing and aspirator NRV etc but this is such a practical idea I'm thinking give it a crack.

Cheers


----------



## BPH87

What is the difference between the CQ model and the clamp on model?

Going to Europe for a month tomorrow and was going to post a few home.


----------



## chillamacgilla73

BPH87 said:


> What is the difference between the CQ model and the clamp on model?
> Going to Europe for a month tomorrow and was going to post a few home.


They are heavy 6-7kg....dunno if I'd post them home.
CQ pump mechanism is integrated into the unit wheras the CO has the handle drive the pump via linkages. Don't know if that's the correct lingo but the CQ uses the handle to drive the pump internally as opposed to driving the pump through linkages n what not.

Excuse non technical speak....not my forte.

Check the Angram website 
CO http://www.angramltd.com/shop/products/hand-pumps/clam-on-hand-pump.html
CQ http://www.angramltd.com/shop/products/hand-pumps/model-cq-hand-pump.html


----------



## sp0rk

BPH87 said:


> What is the difference between the CQ model and the clamp on model?
> 
> Going to Europe for a month tomorrow and was going to post a few home.


I'll gladly take one if you can get them over here cheap


----------



## dago001

Just got this little baby back from the UK. Paid 10 quid for it and got it home in my suitcase. Pretty happy with it, although I havent used it yet. It's a Homark model from Courage brewery in Scotland.


Cheers
LB


----------



## jlm

Looks like you've just nominated yourself for a shindig at your place David.


----------



## dago001

jlm said:


> Looks like you've just nominated yourself for a shindig at your place David.


Yep, will have to do a Real Ale fest some time soon, but judging by the way our other get togethers go, nobody will be able to settle on a date, so I will have to drink it all by myself.
Cheers
LB


----------



## spog

LagerBomb said:


> Just got this little baby back from the UK. Paid 10 quid for it and got it home in my suitcase. Pretty happy with it, although I havent used it yet. It's a Homark model from Courage brewery in Scotland.
> 
> 
> 
> beerengine.jpg
> Cheers
> LB


. 10 quid! Am of to pomgolia soon,hmm may have to start making enquiries.and getting a bigger suitcase. ...cheers...spog...


----------



## dago001

My advice to anybody who goes to the UK, talk to the locals, be friendly to the publicans, tell them you are a brewer and enquire if they have any old pumps taps etc they might be happy to give/sell you. Dont ask straight up, try to get a bit of a conversation going. Look for the small pubs not affilliated to a chain, as the chain pubs dont have anything.
I also picked up a large Pilsner Urquell brass font for free. We made a few great contacts over there as well, one publican was going to send over a half a container of small kegs for me. Took some talking out of as they would be of no use to us over here, different type of fittings etc. Another is sourcing some more beer engines for me, to be shipped over with his mates when they come over.
Cheers
LB


----------



## NickB

Still a work in progress, but thought I'd utilise my bar fridge which struggles as a fermenting fridge in the warm temps up here. I'm using a collapsible water container in the fridge.

Have access to a bender and guillotine at work, so cut and bent some galv sheet to mount the engine to. A front cover has been bent, but not yet drilled. All the exposed galv will be painted soon (probably black)

Will keep posting updates as they come!














Cheers!


----------



## mckenry

Here's mine. Just testing it here, but I will eventually recess it into a wine barrel.


----------



## Lachlan J

Nick B - is the beer in that collapsible water container carbonated at all? I like the look of that setup, but I'd be worried about it bursting under pressure..


----------



## NickB

Nah, not carbonated. I had thought about lightly priming but haver got around to it as yet


----------



## vortex

I'm in the club! Got mine shipped over from the UK for not too much. Reco 1/4pint with water cooled cylinder, sparkler etc. Looking forward to giving it a run.

Where's the best source of poly pin style collapsible bags now? Tried BCF yesterday, didn't see any, the staff were all flatout so didn't ask...


----------



## wide eyed and legless

You can get them on eBay or The Plastic Man, I don't know if there is an outlet in Adelaide.


----------



## billygoat

I got a 10 litre one from Supercheap.


----------



## dago001

Rays Outdoors have a 10 litre one for about $6.00.


----------



## vortex

billygoat said:


> I got a 10 litre one from Supercheap.


Got one of these. The tap on it is smaller than 1/2" (which is what the BE cylinder barb is), how is everyone else connecting to these? It also reaks of PVC, so I'm hoping a wash out will fix that.

Alternatively does anyone have a modified keg lid and/or aspirator they want to move this week? Keen to have the beer engine up and running for Christmas day.


----------



## Kodos

vortex said:


> Got one of these. The tap on it is smaller than 1/2" (which is what the BE cylinder barb is), how is everyone else connecting to these? It also reaks of PVC, so I'm hoping a wash out will fix that.
> 
> Alternatively does anyone have a modified keg lid and/or aspirator they want to move this week? Keen to have the beer engine up and running for Christmas day.


For an event or a session using the hand-pump, I just open the purge valve and let air in. So far the beer's been finished that day and oxidation hasn't mattered. If you don't finish the keg, purge the keg a few times with CO2 and you'll be fine.

The keg lid I use doesn't actually have a purge valve on it, so I just put a gas disconnect without anything attached on the gas post to let air in.


----------



## billygoat

vortex said:


> Got one of these. The tap on it is smaller than 1/2" (which is what the BE cylinder barb is), how is everyone else connecting to these? It also reaks of PVC, so I'm hoping a wash out will fix that.
> 
> Alternatively does anyone have a modified keg lid and/or aspirator they want to move this week? Keen to have the beer engine up and running for Christmas day.


I fitted a piece of hosing over the polypin tap to pad it out, so that 1/2 inch hose fitted on tightly.
If you are using a keg, no need to have a modified lid. I use a check valve between the keg and beer engine. The tube that fits to the inlet of the check valve is 3/8 so it also fits ok onto a black QD. If you're beer engine works ok, you'll have no problems pulling beer through a QD.
If you want to connect it up for christmas day without buying a heap of extra stuff, get a black QD, and fit some tube to the barb and pad it out until its thick enough to fit the 1/2 tube snugly.
I've had two beer engines for over 5 years and have never had to modify a keg lid with bulkhead fittings to pull beer. If your beer engine works properly, it will have no problems drawing beer through a black QD.
Before using the polypin, I filled it with napisan solution and left it for a few days, then rinsed out. Got rid of that PVC smell without a problem.
To be honest, i don't think I'll bother using the polypin much. Its a bit harder to fill and doesn't suit the fridge that I serve my pommy ales from. I find using corny kegs and serving my pommy ales from them is easier in my set up.


----------



## billygoat

I used a short piece of 6mm ID beerline.


----------



## billygoat

I pushed the 6mm ID beer line onto the black QD, and then got a short length of 10mm ID vinyl tube and fitted that over the 6mm tube.


----------



## billygoat

Once you have the 10mm tube fitted over the 6mm tube, a 1/2 inch ID tube will fit on snuggly. In the picture I have used 1/2 inch silicone tube but any 1/2 inch ID tube will do. The 1/2 inch tube will then fit over the barb on the beer engine.
When ready to serve, open the PRV or as another poster stated earlier, if you don't have a keg with a PRV, just put a QD on the gas post to allow air in.
This a quick and easy way to connect a corny keg to a beer engine without having to buy a heap of extra bits. Works well.


----------



## np1962

This is all good but you have not mentioned how you fill the headspace as you draw beer out of the keg.
As vortex mentioned he would need an aspirator to allow co2 to enter the keg as beer is drawn from it.
Otherwise a vacuum will form in the keg and you will not be able to pull more beer.
If you are just opening the relief valve and allowing air to enter the keg you may as well remove the lid and just draw from the lid opening.
Just connecting a gas QD without an aspirator is problematic as it is almost impossible to dial the pressure low enough to stop it forcing beer out of the keg through the engine.

Edit: You posted while I was typing this.


----------



## billygoat

He said he wants to use it on Christmas day, this gives him a quick and easy way to get him going. Not a permanent installation or solution.
I have a cask breather (which I hardly use), check valve and a low pressure regulator that replaces the beer volume with CO2 to prevent staling. I set the low pressure reg to about 20KPa. Also, the check valve stops beer being forced out of the beer engine if there is too much pressure in the keg. It only allows beer to flow when the handle is pulled.
I only tend to use the cask breather when I know the beer engine will be used a lot during a session.


----------



## vortex

Thanks billy goat, that will do the job for the day.


----------



## billygoat

Vortex,
As Nige posted above, if you have a keg you can remove the lid, dangle a hose into the keg and draw it out with the beer engine that way. Put a tea towell or something over it if outside, to stop bugs being attracted to it.
At our Ballarat and Region get togethers, there are a few of us with beer engines. Some of the blokes bring English ales along in PET bottles or other containers, we just stick the hose in the container and pump away.


----------



## dago001

With my set up, which is similar to what most here have done, I only ever put enough beer in the keg or water container for the required session. I have used a 10 litre cube and just dropped the line into it, as I was expecting to drink it in one session. 
With the plastic water container, I have made an adaptor plate which replaces the tap. It has the beer line going through it, (tight fit, doesnt leak air) into the container. I removed the barb from the BE and fitted a JG fitting in its place. I now have a 10mm beer line direct from the BE to the container. No air gets into the water container. I have kept beer in this manner for up to 2 weeks, just sitting in an esky, before it started to taste funky. 
Cant post any pic atm as I amat work, but I try to get some uploaded over the next few days.
Cheers
LB


----------



## Kodos

NigeP62 said:


> If you are just opening the relief valve and allowing air to enter the keg you may as well remove the lid and just draw from the lid opening.


I would have guessed this creates a much greater risk of oxidising the beer in the keg: the larger opening, and shoving the hose inside the lid will disturb the CO2 blanket above the beer. allowing it in through the gas QD or relief valve, (I would have thought) would just leave a layer of air above the CO2, and that can be purged later if necessary. But if others have tried the alternative and not had a problem, I can't discount their experience. The former has been quite easy for me.

If the O2 bothers you, you could get one of those gas bulb chargers and just give it the slightest puff of CO2 if you notice a vacuum forming and the pull gets difficult.

Many brewers find they can just draw the beer through a standard disconnect without problems. I've noticed it depends on the beer engine, and more likely on how large the chamber is - ie a 1/4pint pull can draw through a beer QD easier than a 1/2pint pull.

Give a few options a go before you spend a lot of money on gear you might not need.


----------



## Batz

Post #16 in this thread shows what I do.

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/62084-keg-to-cask-conversion/

I only use the beer engine for parties etc, the keg always gets drained in one night. I did buy all the aspirators and gear but have never used them.

Batz


----------



## wide eyed and legless

I am curious to know why my bitter has the creaminess of a beer charged with nitrogen, I have sparklers
on both beer engines, could the oxygen and nitrogen be getting separated when the beer is forced through the sparkler?
I don't carbonate the beer and I have tried to Google an answer but to no avail.


----------



## mje1980

For gods sake man, don't question it, just enjoy it and stop making other people ( like me ) insanely jealous!!


----------



## black_labb

Its what a beer engine does, especially with the sparkler. Ive been giving my handpump a good workout. I brew handpumpable ales for most beers and bottle other beers for when I feel like something different.


----------



## jimmy86

I have just aquired a homark Poole handle and mount, but that's all I have. Is there a supplier in oz that supplies just the pumps and swan neck without having to purchase a whole reconditioned unit?


----------



## TidalPete

Sadly, I do not own a beer engine but Sav does & cannot upload the pic. 

There you go Jamie. Looks like a beauty. --------


----------



## mckenry

Not sure I've put mine up here in its current format, but here it is.


----------



## wide eyed and legless

I like the Idea of the keg, where does your line run do you have your beer set up inside the keg?
My beer engines are up the top of the garden,drawing the beer out of the cool room so it is a pain to go stumbling back and forth to through the garden, my next project is this so I can keep the beer close to the back door.
Looks like the original poster's engineering skills were limited so should be pretty easy to do. 

http://www.gcspublishing.com/newsletter/Homemadebeerengine.pdf


----------



## mckenry

wide eyed and legless said:


> I like the Idea of the keg, where does your line run do you have your beer set up inside the keg?
> My beer engines are up the top of the garden,drawing the beer out of the cool room so it is a pain to go stumbling back and forth to through the garden, my next project is this so I can keep the beer close to the back door.
> Looks like the original poster's engineering skills were limited so should be pretty easy to do.
> 
> http://www.gcspublishing.com/newsletter/Homemadebeerengine.pdf


I have a corny inside the wooden barrel. I cut the bottom out of the barrel and slip it over the keg, which I have in a bucket of ice. Not a job for a weakling! The corny lid has the relief removed and a bigger diameter hose runs to the bottom of the corny straight into the bottom of the engine. Needless to say, this is a bit of a pain in the arse to set up, so it doesnt get a run too often.
I am also going to build a similar job to your link, with a rear access door. I was also thinking of building one into a grandfather clock. There are some pretty cool fakes around now and I reckon it would be a good laugh.


----------



## wide eyed and legless

That would put a new slant on Beer o'clock  I was hoping you would have said that you had made an access door behind the barrel, I was thinking it would take some lifting to put the barrel over the top of what you were dispensing from.


----------



## sav

TidalPete said:


> Sadly, I do not own a beer engine but Sav does & cannot upload the pic.
> 
> There you go Jamie. Looks like a beauty. --------


----------



## sav

Thanks pete the recon from angram is good as they said it would be it looks brand new. It's been a long month to get it here.


----------



## Tahoose

Can't believe I have just found this thread.


----------



## welly2

This has been a very handy series of posts. When my beer engine arrives in the next few days then I should now be good to get it serving beer! I'm probably going to try the corny keg and check valve affair to start with.


----------



## welly2

Before...




and after (still a bit of work to do)...


----------



## fdsaasdf

I was in the process of planning my beer engine purchase about 18 months ago when I was in the UK but unfortunately never got around to it... now the dollar is under 50p the cost of a shipped unit is insane so I think I'm going to be waiting a long time to go back and finally grab one!


----------



## welly2

fdsaasdf said:


> I was in the process of planning my beer engine purchase about 18 months ago when I was in the UK but unfortunately never got around to it... now the dollar is under 50p the cost of a shipped unit is insane so I think I'm going to be waiting a long time to go back and finally grab one!


This one cost me $50 to ship and it took less time to ship a big box from the UK than it did a jiffy bag full of yeast from bloody Victoria.


----------



## fdsaasdf

welly2 said:


> This one cost me $50 to ship and it took less time to ship a big box from the UK than it did a jiffy bag full of yeast from bloody Victoria.


That sounds very cheap, could you please tell us which provider you used?


----------



## welly2

It was this guy http://stores.ebay.com.au/bigdsb?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 but doesn't look like he's got any more.


----------



## fdsaasdf

welly2 said:


> It was this guy http://stores.ebay.com.au/bigdsb?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 but doesn't look like he's got any more.


Thanks, I was actually asking about the shipping method - which delivery provider was it?


----------



## welly2

fdsaasdf said:


> Thanks, I was actually asking about the shipping method - which delivery provider was it?


Oh, it was eBay Global Shipping program. Not exactly sure what the deal is with that. But if you take a look at http://www.transglobalexpress.co.uk/parcel-to/australia/ then you'll find some pretty reasonable shipping costs.


----------



## fdsaasdf

Ok thanks. Yeah I've looked at Transglobal before, they start at $100 for parcel delivery of beer engine-sized packages...


----------



## Mardoo

Have a look at E-go. Very reasonable and I've had great luck with them.


----------



## mckenry

My beer engine is in here, post 483.

I have a weird problem with it. When I pull beer through it, it leaks after returning the handle to the off position. It drips for a fair while before eventually stopping. Probably around 50mL or so.
The confusing bit, is it wont leak if I pull water through it. It shuts off as expected.

Any ideas? - I thought it might be carbonation 'pushing' itself out, but I dont reckon there would be enough pressure and the hose isnt 100% air tight in the corny lid anyway.
Thanks,
mckenry


----------



## wide eyed and legless

Have you fitted a check valve? Because you have some carbonation in your beer your first theory was correct, thats why with water you don't get any leakage.


----------



## mckenry

wide eyed and legless said:


> Have you fitted a check valve? Because you have some carbonation in your beer your first theory was correct, thats why with water you don't get any leakage.


I havent fitted anything to it. It used to just work as it is. Where does a check valve go on an engine?


----------



## wide eyed and legless

Have a look at post 24 in this thread, there is another one somewhere with better pics, can't remember if it was in this thread though, might be in one about a rebuild of a beer engine.


----------



## Howlingdog

Images for beer engine check valve

http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7BEER%20ENG%20CHECK%20VALVE


----------



## Mardoo

Well, what the hell. I just bought this. Let's hope that's not a very, very steep side road I'm now looking down! Pulled out of the pub by the publican who sold his pub and refurbished by him. Used regularly until he did. "Works as it should," were his words. Hasn't even shipped yet. Dayum.


----------



## nosco

Was the purchase inspired by a 9 gallon keg perhaps? Still waiting for parts for my beer engine. Should be here in time for another month or more of winter and a cube of Yorkshire bitter I have waiting.


----------



## nosco

Edit: double post


----------



## Grainer

Ill send that post soon mardoo


----------



## Mardoo

nosco said:


> Was the purchase inspired by a 9 gallon keg perhaps? Still waiting for parts for my beer engine. Should be here in time for another month or more of winter and a cube of Yorkshire bitter I have waiting.


No, other way actually, the keg just came along earlier and was a speculative buy (maybe some day I'll...). I figured if I didn't use it, someone would want it or it would make a tidy little BIAB rig. I used to work near the Royston and would get the Holgate ESB on handpump and always had one when I went. That and a tour through Ireland and the UK about 20 years ago showed me I wanted an engine. When I saw Grainer's engine rebuild I thought, "**** me, that's a beautiful engine," so I've had my eyes open for something similar. This engine, the money and the drop in the pound all happened at the same time so I went for it.

He actually has two more he's rebuilding and mounting...happy to share details with anyone who might want to approach him. PM me.


----------



## malt and barley blues

wide eyed and legless said:


> Have you fitted a check valve? Because you have some carbonation in your beer your first theory was correct, thats why with water you don't get any leakage.


Not forgetting the back pressure.


----------



## Grainer

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/88896-1960s-twin-beer-pump-restoration-gaskell-chambers/

Pardoo, If I was you I would replace the wood on that engine and replicate it with oak or something for a more authentic look..Just replace the front and top panel and repaint the white is a matte or semi gloss. I did matte for a more rustic look. Good luck the cleaning is the hardest part if you have friends in the right places!

Oh I didn't document the whole rebuild.. so if you want you can always come round and I can take you through it step by step and put you in contact with someone that may work for beer!

If u want pointers for the rebuild just contact me.


----------



## welly2

Transferred my English bitter into the cask (the brown thing in the foreground!) earlier. Gravity went down to about 1.014 and as I was expecting it to go down to around 1.012, it should naturally carbonate nicely in the cask. Will sit around 4.4% so a nice session bitter. Fermented super quick - I made this beer last Friday, casked it today. Will give it about a week in the cask and I'm going to tap it next weekend. That'll give me a week to figure out my cask aspirator and to build a stillage for the cask to sit on.

Those two demijohns are my housemates 2016 Hunter Shiraz which he racked for safe keeping until he plans to bottle it in the spring. He had three litres of the stuff left over that he didn't have room for in the demijohns which we smashed over the course of an evening. Man, it was absolutely beautiful. His 2015 Mudgee Shiraz was quite unpalatable but this stuff is incredible.

Sorry about the mess - it's my brew shed and there's shit all over the place. Beer engine in the background - my Angram CQ. Sadly no room in the house for it plus the temperature in the house isn't right for serving cask ale.


----------



## spog

$ 150.00 with a drip tray from a junk shop near Adelaide.
Another brewing project on the list.


----------



## wide eyed and legless

To the left of the 3rd photo spog is that the rule that went through the grain mill (the curved rule)


----------



## spog

wide eyed and legless said:


> To the left of the 3rd photo spog is that the rule that went through the grain mill (the curved rule)


One of the 2, shit you don't miss a thing,I didn't realise it was in the background.


----------



## welly2

So finally got everything hooked up and ready to go. Took a bit of pissing about finding the right hose sizes and right connectors. But got there eventually.

Needed standard 6mm gas line from bottle to cask breather, using a 5/16" to 3/8" JG adapter. And then some 10mm hose (I think) from other end of the cask breather to the cask spigot. The spigot will go into the cask where the soft spile is currently sitting (see second photo). Used some fairly hefty beer line from the beer engine to the tap and have used a camlock for a quick release. There's a barbed fitting that goes in the back of the tap. I was trying to get everything to be JG or something along those lines for ease of use but couldn't quite find all the right parts or sizes. We'll see how it goes tomorrow but I think it should be good. Or at least everything should work.

What will be interesting to find out is how the actual beer is. I had a couple of instances of the keystone, which goes in the front of the cask that I hammer the tap through, having popped out due to a build up of pressure (when it was standing vertical so I haven't lost any beer!). And it would have been like that for at least a few hours. I may find insects floating in the beer. Hopefully not though. I think I must have casked it just a bit too early. I wanted to cask it when it was about 2 points above finishing - I was expecting an FG of 1.012 and I casked it at 1.014 so maybe it still had a bit to go. Anyway. it'll still be beer and it might end up being rough as guts and want dumping. Update tomorrow.

*Beer engine*



*Cask, vented ready to tap tomorrow*



*Tap, thanks kindly to Bribie*



*Cask breather and cask spigot*


----------



## welly2

It's alive! Aliiiiiiiiiiiiive!


----------



## Mardoo

And??? How was the pint?


----------



## welly2

Mardoo said:


> And??? How was the pint?


Good! Really good. It still needs a bit of work to be the bitter I'm after but it's the right direction. I'm going to make the recipe again but with some water adjustments and see how that affects it. But it's coming along.


----------



## gap

Welly2,

You should try a side by side comparison with the sparkler on and off to see if there is any difference to the taste of the beer.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## wide eyed and legless

welly2 said:


> Good! Really good. It still needs a bit of work to be the bitter I'm after but it's the right direction. I'm going to make the recipe again but with some water adjustments and see how that affects it. But it's coming along.


Well it looks delicious, which recipe was it?


----------



## welly2

wide eyed and legless said:


> Well it looks delicious, which recipe was it?


It was a bit a of Frankenbrew in that I ended up using a bunch of crystals that I had left over, so:

88% Maris Otter 
3.5% each of crystal light, medium and dark
1.5% wheat malt for head retention (which certainly works)
Northdown at 60 - 26.5 IBU
Fuggles at 30 - 7.2 IBU
Fuggles at 0 
WLP005 yeast

I'll be making it again this weekend but just with crystal medium as opposed to the mix and plan to take a couple of litres of the wort from the boil, boil it in a pan to reduce it and then add it back in the boil. I forget where I read this (probably here somewhere) but I understand a few breweries do this with their English bitters to add a bit of caramel flavours. It'll be worth an experiment I reckon! And I'm going to use EKG instead of Fuggles for a bit of a change.


----------



## S.E

welly2 said:


> I had a couple of instances of the keystone, which goes in the front of the cask that I hammer the tap through, having popped out due to a build up of pressure


Hi Welly2, I’m afraid you may find the keystone popping out is going to be an ongoing problem due to a manufacturing flaw in those 4.5 gal pins.

I bought a couple pins and a 9 gal firkin but when I ordered keystones and shives I was told that apparently the pin mould wasn’t made correctly.

The keystone holes in the pins are slightly too big and the protruding walls are too thin to hold the keystone firmly under carbonation.

Also the shive hole is too tight (I see from your picture that you haven’t been able hammer your shive in fully) so about the only shives that will sort of fit are the TE Plastics ones that you appear to be using and I believe TE Plastics are no longer trading.

The plastic firkins are not faulty so you may be better off using one of those. I don’t use my casks very often as I found the trusty no chill type cubes are far easier and better for the job. Cubes are also easier to fit in an STC controlled fridge in summer.

I know those casks are cheap enough but a cube is almost half the price and you don’t need to keep buying and replacing the keystones and shives after each use. Just drill a hole in the cap of a cube and you can fit your aspirator to that.

Cheers Sean


----------



## wide eyed and legless

S.E said:


> The plastic firkins are not faulty so you may be better off using one of those. I don’t use my casks very often as I found the trusty no chill type cubes are far easier and better for the job. Cubes are also easier to fit in an STC controlled fridge in summer.
> 
> I know those casks are cheap enough but a cube is almost half the price and you don’t need to keep buying and replacing the keystones and shives after each use. Just drill a hole in the cap of a cube and you can fit your aspirator to that.
> 
> Cheers Sean


And it keeps it nice and simple.


----------



## S.E

wide eyed and legless said:


> And it keeps it nice and simple.


Yep, nice simple and readily available here. If I was back in the UK or lived somewhere with a cooler climate I would use pins or firkins at ambient but found they are a pain to keep cool when tapped horizontally.

You need a temp controlled chest freezer or something large enough to accommodate them. Cubes will fit in about any fridge and you don’t need to stuff around with keystones and shives. Easier to vent and serve immediately too.


----------



## welly2

S.E said:


> Yep, nice simple and readily available here. If I was back in the UK or lived somewhere with a cooler climate I would use pins or firkins at ambient but found they are a pain to keep cool when tapped horizontally.
> 
> You need a temp controlled chest freezer or something large enough to accommodate them. Cubes will fit in about any fridge and you don’t need to stuff around with keystones and shives. Easier to vent and serve immediately too.


Something I'll think about closer to summer! It's pretty annoying about the flaws you've suggested. I've got a bag full of wooden shives/keystones kindly sent by Bribie which I might have a go with next brew and see if they work better than the plastic ones I have. I know what you're saying about stuffing about with keystones and shives but there's something that appeals about the whole process! Call me a traditionalist but I'm doing this as a bit of nostalgia and and a nod drinking in pubs back in the UK! It's definitely not practical but it is fun!


----------



## welly2

Alright. It's an "xbeeriment" - sparkler vs. no sparkler.





Immediately, obviously there isn't the same head with the non-sparkler pull. It came out of the handpump gushing away, the sparkler pull was far more refined.

Head retention on the non-sparkler pull dissipated fairly quickly although there's a little bit of head still remaining after a few minutes. It's very reminiscent of drinking a pint in southern pubs. The good northern head is still there standing proud, while the southern head is limp and looking glum and defeated. Very unappetising.




Taste wise, the sparkler pulled beer has a lovely smooth mouthfeel. It's malty, slightly bitter and delicious. The southern pull, while still tasty (it is my beer, after all), has a slightly less elegant mouthfeel. If you can imagine a smooth, welcoming northern accent vs. a harsh, brash banshee-like southern wail from Essex or Bedfordshire, you'll know what I mean.

Overall, I've got to say I'm a northern bloke and I like my pints with a sparkler. It's just how it's meant to be. It's just far more appealing and appetising. I don't think actual taste of the beer is any different, I think it's the mouthfeel which is different. Anyone who pops round for a pint is more than welcome to have it unsparkled, however they'll have to drink outside. "Those" kind aren't welcome in my house.


----------



## WarmerBeer

Have stripped, cleaned, and re-built my Hi-Gene 1/2 pint engine. Man, there was some _naaasty_ gunk inside that cylinder!

Pulled myself (a Dark Mild, perverts) a couple of times last night. The o-ring seals on the top & bottom of the cylinder are looking worse for wear, but are not leaking, so far.

I am keen to get a replacement 6" drip tray, as mine didn't come with one. Anybody know of anywhere local, or do I need to hit up one of the UK online stores?


----------



## Batz

WarmerBeer said:


> I am keen to get a replacement 6" drip tray, as mine didn't come with one. Anybody know of anywhere local, or do I need to hit up one of the UK online stores?


It's a while ago but I'm sure I bought my drip trays here:

http://real-ale.com.au/

He also has sparklers, and all the other gear. Prices where reasonable too.


----------



## billygoat

WarmerBeer said:


> Have stripped, cleaned, and re-built my Hi-Gene 1/2 pint engine. Man, there was some _naaasty_ gunk inside that cylinder!
> 
> Pulled myself (a Dark Mild, perverts) a couple of times last night. The o-ring seals on the top & bottom of the cylinder are looking worse for wear, but are not leaking, so far.
> 
> I am keen to get a replacement 6" drip tray, as mine didn't come with one. Anybody know of anywhere local, or do I need to hit up one of the UK online stores?


If you don't find anything local, try 
shop.barleybottom.co.uk


----------



## NC1984

Hello All, 
I have recently joined the beer engine club. Managed to pick up a Angram CQ 1/4 pint water jacketed pump. It looks great and has been tested with no leaks. I have installed onto my bar and am now just finishing the keg fridge, hoping to brew in the next month and give it a try. I had to build a small plinth to sit under the engine as it was too deep for my bar but I think it came up ok.


----------



## NC1984

NC1984 said:


> Hello All,
> I have recently joined the beer engine club. Managed to pick up a Angram CQ 1/4 pint water jacketed pump. It looks great and has been tested with no leaks. I have installed onto my bar and am now just finishing the keg fridge, hoping to brew in the next month and give it a try. I had to build a small plinth to sit under the engine as it was too deep for my bar but I think it came up ok.
> 
> View attachment 110884
> View attachment 110885
> View attachment 110886



I should mention the agg hose has contained in it a length of insulation which then has the water lines and beer line in it. 

Just waiting on a few parts, have ordered a check/demand valve from cfbs in UK, an LPG regulator to act as a aspirator. I will use a keg king in line reg to bring the supply down to about 3-5 psi as a safety. 

Looking to brew London pride and use no secondary fermentation, just enough co2 to seal a Corny and hopefully will be pumping ale soon!


----------



## NC1984

NC1984 said:


> I should mention the agg hose has contained in it a length of insulation which then has the water lines and beer line in it.
> 
> Just waiting on a few parts, have ordered a check/demand valve from cfbs in UK, an LPG regulator to act as a aspirator. I will use a keg king in line reg to bring the supply down to about 3-5 psi as a safety.
> 
> Looking to brew London pride and use no secondary fermentation, just enough co2 to seal a Corny and hopefully will be pumping ale soon!



Can anyone advise on the suitability of my planned set up, listed in order of flow

GAS:

Co2 tank - used for multiple beers, say set to 10-15psi if I am dispensing via font tap
Manifold block
Handpump line - in line regulator reducing to around 5psi (needs to be sufficient for sealing corny kegs)
LPG reg to act as cask breather - should allow 0.4psi on a demand only basis (when the pump is pulled)
Into Keg.....

Beer

From Corny Keg (do I need to modify the dip tube/make a larger one? I have heard people doing this.
3/8 line to beer engine demand/check valve, this is housed in the fridge.
1/2 inch line from other side of demand/check valve to the beer engine. This length is around 2.5 meters. I have noticed some people put the demand/check valve right at the base of the hand pump and others put them in the fridge. Does the length of the 1/2 inch feed to the beer engine make any differences.

Sparkler to be determined by beer style needing it or not.

Into my glass and into my belly.

Any advise greatly appreciated!


----------



## S.E

Depending on your engine even 5psi will probably make it drip. Are you sure you need that to seal your kegs? Some do need a bit of pressure but if the seals are good shouldn’t.

You can shorten the dip tube or replace it with a piece of silicone tube.

Or you could use cubes or poly pins rather than kegs if yours don't seal.


----------



## NC1984

S.E said:


> Depending on your engine even 5psi will probably make it drip. Are you sure you need that to seal your kegs? Some do need a bit of pressure but if the seals are good shouldn’t.
> 
> You can shorten the dip tube or replace it with a piece of silicone tube.
> 
> Or you could use cubes or poly pins rather than kegs if yours don't seal.



Thanks,
Isn’t that what the demand/check valve will stop. 
Also the LPG reg is after the reg and before the keg so won’t that bring the applied pressure right down?

Can’t wait to get into it!


----------



## S.E

NC1984 said:


> Thanks,
> Isn’t that what the demand/check valve will stop.
> Also the LPG reg is after the reg and before the keg so won’t that bring the applied pressure right down?
> 
> Can’t wait to get into it!



Yes, sorry that should work. Hadn’t seen the LPG reg.


----------



## S.E

Only thing is the beer will be over carbonated for cask ale and your engine may struggle to pump the over carbed ale.


----------



## NC1984

S.E said:


> Only thing is the beer will be over carbonated for cask ale and your engine may struggle to pump the over carbed ale.



Ok thanks, what if I only carb to 1 or say 1.3 volumes. I have been reading some of the charts that are around.

I was really planning on just going straight from primary to keg, cold crash seal it up and drink, 
Possibly shorten the dip tube or use a widge.


----------



## koshari

NC1984 said:


> Thanks,
> Isn’t that what the demand/check valve will stop.
> Also the LPG reg is after the reg and before the keg so won’t that bring the applied pressure right down?
> 
> Can’t wait to get into it!


my setup is pretty much as you described in this post, adjustable reg at 8 psi feeding 2 draft kegs and the pump via an LPG reg and demand valve, as you correctly state anything above atmosphere will cause dripping, a collapsable vesel or bag full on co2 is the other option, imo the pump works best with a vessel slightly below the engine but you generally have to prime a little before your first drink in a session, the demand valve adds some more resistance to the pump handle as its a significant diff pressure before it opens.

i love a sparkler regardless of style, the creamy head is really where the pump shines, your bar saetp looks goot so many happy returns,



> I was really planning on just going straight from primary to keg, cold crash seal it up and drink,


cant see it being a problem, just remember you have to replace the head space if its in a rigid container.


----------



## S.E

NC1984 said:


> Ok thanks, what if I only carb to 1 or say 1.3 volumes. I have been reading some of the charts that are around.
> 
> I was really planning on just going straight from primary to keg, cold crash seal it up and drink,
> Possibly shorten the dip tube or use a widge.



No problem, I often go straight from primary to cask. You can shorten the dip or use a widge if you have one. If not just use a bit of silicone tube cut short without a widge will work.

Only cold crash to around 12c will keep the yeast happy and working.


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## NC1984

Thanks I’m waiting for a few bits in the mail before I can get it all put together.


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## koshari

NC1984 said:


> Thanks I’m waiting for a few bits in the mail before I can get it all put together.


iam always waiting for stuff to arrive, sure makes going to the mail box a pleasant experience .


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## NC1984

koshari said:


> my setup is pretty much as you described in this post, adjustable reg at 8 psi feeding 2 draft kegs and the pump via an LPG reg and demand valve, as you correctly state anything above atmosphere will cause dripping, a collapsable vesel or bag full on co2 is the other option, imo the pump works best with a vessel slightly below the engine but you generally have to prime a little before your first drink in a session, the demand valve adds some more resistance to the pump handle as its a significant diff pressure before it opens.
> 
> i love a sparkler regardless of style, the creamy head is really where the pump shines, your bar saetp looks goot so many happy returns,
> 
> 
> cant see it being a problem, just remember you have to replace the head space if its in a rigid container.



Thanks mate
So if I carb to 1.3 over say 5 days
will the bbq reg supply enough pressure during serving to replace without adding to carbonation? Or will the keg still want to collapse/vacuum lock? And is it advisable to turn off the gas feed to this keg when not in use.


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## NC1984

koshari said:


> iam always waiting for stuff to arrive, sure makes going to the mail box a pleasant experience .



Amen.! I am a newly returned brewer. Had the whole 400 plus king browns 10 years ago trying all sorts of things and got sick of it but have decided to give this a go


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## NC1984

S.E said:


> No problem, I often go straight from primary to cask. You can shorten the dip or use a widge if you have one. If not just use a bit of silicone tube cut short without a widge will work.
> 
> Only cold crash to around 12c will keep the yeast happy and working.




Excellent good advice there. Fridge is controlled by stc1000 so should be right


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## koshari

NC1984 said:


> Thanks mate
> So if I carb to 1.3 over say 5 days
> will the bbq reg supply enough pressure during serving to replace without adding to carbonation? Or will the keg still want to collapse/vacuum lock? And is it advisable to turn off the gas feed to this keg when not in use.


the bbq reg will feed about 3 psi max, a little bit of carbonation is fine, you just dont want it to be fizzing out in the glass, trust me you will know you have it just right when you see that beautiful tumbling cascading head settle just like it came out of a can with a widget in it.


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## NC1984

koshari said:


> the bbq reg will feed about 3 psi max, a little bit of carbonation is fine, you just dont want it to be fizzing out in the glass, trust me you will know you have it just right when you see that beautiful tumbling cascading head settle just like it came out of a can with a widget in it.



My preferred ale is London Pride, 
I don’t really like it as much in the bottles as it is more fizzy then on cask. Also it’s stronger.

Also Ringwood Best is amazingly easy to drink. I think it’s been rebranded as Razorback now good session beers only 4ish %


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## koshari

NC1984 said:


> My preferred ale is London Pride,
> I don’t really like it as much in the bottles as it is more fizzy then on cask. Also it’s stronger.
> 
> Also Ringwood Best is amazingly easy to drink. I think it’s been rebranded as Razorback now good session beers only 4ish %


Had a few LPs over there this year, personally i like the wells bombader in the dark ales and the moreland hoppy hen in lighter ales on the pump, i generally drink morelands speckled hens in the bottle/can when i go to my favorite indian BYO. they do bombadeer in the bottle as well but its not the same, spitfire goes well in the bottle as well. across the irish sea smithwicks on the pump is awesome.


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## S.E

NC1984 said:


> Amen.! I am a newly returned brewer. Had the whole 400 plus king browns 10 years ago trying all sorts of things and got sick of it but have decided to give this a go



Are you from Uk? It’s unusual for locals to be familiar with Cask Widge. I think Keg King do something similar these days.


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## NC1984

S.E said:


> Are you from Uk? It’s unusual for locals to be familiar with Cask Widge. I think Keg King do something similar these days.



Nah mate just an Aussie who went backpacking and loved the beer. It was a long time ago but it has never left me.


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## S.E

NC1984 said:


> Nah mate just an Aussie who went backpacking and loved the beer. It was a long time ago but it has never left me.



Ok, well I think Keg King and others here have a floating dip similar to the Cask Widge these days if you need them.


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## koshari

NC1984 said:


> Nah mate just an Aussie who went backpacking and loved the beer. It was a long time ago but it has never left me.


its pretty contentious, i have family and friends in the UK we visit regularly and cask beer is my go to when iam there, just a bit sad there isnt much of it over here, i always google what camba beer festivals are on while iam there and get to them is practical, hope to get to this one this year,
http://www.coventrytelegraph.net/wh...warwick-beer-festival-return-warwick-13175022

went to this one last year.


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## NC1984

It’s another world. If you are ever in Berkshire I highly recommend the George and Dragon in Swallowfield, The Elm Tree at Beech Hill or in Oxfordshire the Blue Boar at Longworth


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## koshari

NC1984 said:


> It’s another world. If you are ever in Berkshire I highly recommend the George and Dragon in Swallowfield, The Elm Tree at Beech Hill or in Oxfordshire the Blue Boar at Longworth



from an aussie perspective berkshire aint that far away form warwick, just on the other sie of the cotswolds really, but never been down past bath.
literally tens of thousands of those types of places, we went over to norfolk last time for a few days to catch up with friends, really nice county,


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## NC1984

So here it is.....
I’m still working on it but its doing ok thus far, this is my London Pride attempt 2.
I used the sparkler as I too like the creamy effect however this takes away some of the bitterness, without the sparkler it is definitely more bitter but feels flatter and head retention is less, I took screen shots from a video to try and show the stages of the pour and settle


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## NC1984

The same beer in bottles is remarkably different, this is a bottle from the balance that didn’t fit in the keg, 4 weeks old, carbonated with only 1/2 a drop per bottle as I wanted the ale to be lightly carbed to style, bite how much clearer it is


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## wide eyed and legless

Are you drawing from a keg? And did you carbonate the keg?


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## NC1984

Hi mate yes the top pictures are from a corny keg the bottom picture is a bottle of the same batch


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## NC1984

Keg was forced carbed at very low slow psi to about 1.7vol


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## Mat B

I've got semi-wood from that. Very impressed!


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## S.E

NC1984 said:


> So here it is.....
> I’m still working on it but its doing ok thus far, this is my London Pride attempt 2.
> I used the sparkler as I too like the creamy effect however this takes away some of the bitterness, without the sparkler it is definitely more bitter but feels flatter and head retention is less, I took screen shots from a video to try and show the stages of the pour and settle


Flatter and less head retention (than northern UK bitters) is exactly how London Pride is supposed to be.

If you prefer it creamier but find it’s not bitter enough, then up your bittering hops and continue serving through the sparkler.

It won’t be the perfect example of a UK cask bitter that London Pride normally is but should be a good beer all the same.


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## koshari

NC1984 said:


> So here it is.....
> I’m still working on it but its doing ok thus far, this is my London Pride attempt 2.
> I used the sparkler as I too like the creamy effect however this takes away some of the bitterness, without the sparkler it is definitely more bitter but feels flatter and head retention is less, I took screen shots from a video to try and show the stages of the pour and settle
> 
> View attachment 112103
> View attachment 112104
> View attachment 112105
> View attachment 112106


As it gets cooler i will be migrating away a bit from my summer ales back to my angrams pump. Better get some nice real ales on the go.


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## Alhoare

Received this old beer engine as a Birthday Present recently and have started restoring it.
Not a great deal of info available on it on the internet and was hoping somebody on the forum has something on it.
I have contacted the UK seller to get some more information but yet to hear back from them.


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## Alhoare

I am thinking it was made by Gaskell & Chambers but not found any markings on it to suggest who was the manufacturer.
As it was missing the swan neck/tap this would have helped narrow it down to era made as well.


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## wide eyed and legless

I bet that's pulled a few pints, they were usually marked on either the cylinder or the brass lever that shows when the handle was pulled, it certainly looks old with the linkage operating the pump.


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## Alhoare

I have looked all over the lever and the cylinder and only the number '2' stamped on them so assume it was No.2 in a set of '?'.
Getting a replacement cork gasket for the piston is unlikely and will probably need to get this made up.


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## wide eyed and legless

Alhoare said:


> I have looked all over the lever and the cylinder and only the number '2' stamped on them so assume it was No.2 in a set of '?'.
> Getting a replacement cork gasket for the piston is unlikely and will probably need to get this made up.


Looks like you have a task and a half in front of you.


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## mje1980

This is our brew clubs engine. If I could drink beer one way only, this would be it. It’s not very practical but I got a 5 litre keg recently just for this purpose. I drilled out the tapping head and welded a SS tube in, and cut it to around 3/8” short of them bottom ( it’s domed so most of the yeast is around the sides of the bottom of the keg ). 5 litres of low 3% beer is perfect for a Sunday arvo. And if you eat crackers and Stilton you don’t end up too messy haha. These pics are from the test run last weekend. It worked great.

I’ve wanted my own for a long time and I’m going to get one for Xmas, or maybe even tax time if I get anything back haha. Very hard to find new ones, but I think I’d prefer to pay the extra for new and not tell my wife how much it cost.!


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## wide eyed and legless

Got to agree there is no better way to drink a beer, told this story before I went to Leicestershire last time I was in the UK to taste the beer where the curd from a Stilton cheese was incorporated into the brewing process. Unfortunately the brewery had closed, so never got to taste it.

Alhoare, could that cork be reclaimed by soaking it to make it swell?


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## Grmblz

Don't go on holiday weal, I have BE envy and have seen your fermenting room.


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## Alhoare

wide eyed and legless said:


> Got to agree there is no better way to drink a beer, told this story before I went to Leicestershire last time I was in the UK to taste the beer where the curd from a Stilton cheese was incorporated into the brewing process. Unfortunately the brewery had closed, so never got to taste it.
> 
> Alhoare, could that cork be reclaimed by soaking it to make it swell?


I actually did a bit more digging on the internet and believe it is a compressed leather gasket.
So might have to speak with my old mate who made leather knee scrapers for bike racing.
I'm sure he can manufacture up something nice out of fresh new cow or kangaroo.


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