# Pearls of wisdom



## Adr_0 (23/10/13)

Wanting to start a thread, just full of good tips or things not to do that you've picked up over the years, that those in the beginner-intermediate range can benefit from, e.g.

- When brewing a Belgian, although you may want lots of esters, don't go past __ (25-26°C?) or you will start to introduce higher alcohols/fusels

- Don't add sulphate past __ppm (150-200ppm?) for dark beers as you will probably get too sharp a taste with the roasted malts and the sulphate

- Don't skimp on the boil time for lagers/pilseners if you are trying to go light, as you may end up letting DMS through and countering any incremental colour improvement

- Make sure you boil water for 10-15min with that you are diluting with to minimise the impact of chlorine/chloramine...


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## Adr_0 (23/10/13)

don't forget to do a thorough diacetyl rest at 17-18°C if you're going to submit a lager for a comp...


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## pk.sax (23/10/13)

If you want to do a very pale ale/lager:
a) don't use any crystals
b) instead of a light boil, boil hard but have more volume (sparge a bit more) to start. I've made a couple of very very pale ales with pilsner malt that are lighter in colour than a heineken even!


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## Smokomark (23/10/13)

Adr_0 said:


> don't forget to do a thorough diacetyl rest at 17-18°C if you're going to submit a lager for a comp...


 Or if you want something drinkable


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## Ducatiboy stu (23/10/13)

How do you get a lighter colour of water...??


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## manticle (23/10/13)

Close the tap.


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## tazman1967 (23/10/13)

Drink a Corona.. or some Blonde thingy..


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## Adr_0 (23/10/13)

for at least 2 out of 3 brews, aim to put the false bottom in _before_ the grain


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## Judanero (23/10/13)

Calibrate hydrometer(against water @ 20oc should read 1.000), calibrate thermometer (in a glass of mostly ice, bit of water should read 0oc)


Take notes on what happened on brew day, unless you are into the pints before mash in.. then all bets are off.


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## toncils (23/10/13)

manticle said:


> Close the tap.



AND, check you've closed the tap, before you check it again...
...every f-ing time. :wacko:


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## Ducatiboy stu (23/10/13)

Yes....the old "why is my toe warm" followed by the " aagh....holy **** I left the tap open"...


This gets followed up with "shit....how much did I loose" and " is my beer ruined"


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## pk.sax (23/10/13)

How do you get a lighter colour of water...??

Some would say freeze and thaw to concentrate the colour out! Heard it recently.


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## Ducatiboy stu (23/10/13)

practicalfool said:


> Some would say freeze and thaw to concentrate the colour out! Heard it recently.


For some reason......I beleive you. ......I mean it does make sense ........sort of....

Now if you could dry that concerntrated water colour you could then darken water to whatever shade you wanted.


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## pk.sax (23/10/13)

Lol, taking this a touch OT. Latest pale, I've posted a pic once, is a tad too bitter and fairly hoppy. Without the body.
So, I blended in a can of Heineken to see how it'd go and that darkened the beer in the glass. I didn't dig this blend. Prefer body to dilution.


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## mje1980 (24/10/13)

Adr_0 said:


> Wanting to start a thread, just full of good tips or things not to do that you've picked up over the years, that those in the beginner-intermediate range can benefit from, e.g.
> 
> - When brewing a Belgian, although you may want lots of esters, don't go past __ (25-26°C?) or you will start to introduce higher alcohols/fusels
> 
> ...


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## mje1980 (24/10/13)

If you pitch enough healthy yeast cold, a d rest isn't always necessary for lagers, for some strains.


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## Adr_0 (24/10/13)

mje1980 said:


> If you pitch enough healthy yeast cold, a d rest isn't always necessary for lagers, for some strains.


This may be true, but I think practically speaking for most brewers the security far outweighs the effort. This is particularly true if you consider that the precursor may be there in a decent quantity and not detected tasting cold fermenter samples. In that case, you then have to rely on extending your lagering more than you would need to with a d-rest - assuming you have treated the yeast kindly and not crashed it out.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (24/10/13)

always re-hydrate your yeast

h34r:


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## Judanero (24/10/13)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> always re-hydrate your yeast
> 
> h34r:



Hahaha I was going to say the exact same thing. h34r:


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## sp0rk (24/10/13)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> always re-hydrate your yeast
> 
> h34r:


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## Ducatiboy stu (24/10/13)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> always re-hydrate your yeast
> 
> h34r:


Providing there is enough in the packet


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## QldKev (24/10/13)

always listen to QldKev B)


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## mje1980 (24/10/13)

Adr_0 said:


> This may be true, but I think practically speaking for most brewers the security far outweighs the effort. This is particularly true if you consider that the precursor may be there in a decent quantity and not detected tasting cold fermenter samples. In that case, you then have to rely on extending your lagering more than you would need to with a d-rest - assuming you have treated the yeast kindly and not crashed it out.


I'd rather put in the effort in at the start, instead of trying to make up for unhealthy or not enough yeast. Since pitching heaps of yeast cold, my lagers are eleventy billion times better. Unfortunately, a really well brewed lager is still not an ale haha. This is not a pearl of wisdom, more a cubic zirconia of half truth and anecdotal experience.


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## HBHB (24/10/13)

Remove the stir bar before dumping the yeast starter into the fermenter. or hold it firmly out of the pour by holding another magnet to the outside of the Erlenmeyer Flask.


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## HBHB (24/10/13)

Adjust your airlock with a hammer > Insert sound effect here < before it stops bubbling - replace it with gladwrap.


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## Ducatiboy stu (24/10/13)

Mix all your grains together then mill.......stops the old getting halfway thru the mash and noticing there is a tin off unmilled grain sitting on the bench problem


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## Yob (24/10/13)

HBHB said:


> Remove the stir bar before dumping the yeast starter into the fermenter. or hold it firmly out of the pour by holding another magnet to the outside of the Erlenmeyer Flask.


Ive taken to using the second stir bar on the outside of the flask and gently removing the stir bar from the flask prior to pitching.... 

Mwooohahahahaha h34r:


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## HBHB (24/10/13)

Give your yeast every chance of doing a good job for a decent finished product:

Rehydrate dry yeast as per manufacturers instructions;
Aerate/oxygenate well;
Pitch enough yeast to do the job properly;
Ferment at the right temperature;

Don't pace the room waiting for the first bubbles in an airlock.....it makes the yeast dizzy.


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## Judanero (24/10/13)

Offering sacrifices to pagan gods makes better beer if the gods are appeased. 
Otherwise you get flat, infected beer. 

h34r:


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## DJ_L3ThAL (24/10/13)

If following a recipe and measuring out hops, LABEL them clearly in the bowls so you don't switch your bittering hops around with your aroma hops!!!

LABEL your cleaning products/solutions, LABEL your beer lines whether they have been cleaned, rinsed, sanitized so that you avoid tapping a keg with lines still containing sodium perc or the likes :unsure:


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## GrumpyPaul (24/10/13)

10 minute IPA does not mean 10 minute boil.

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk


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## SipSip (24/10/13)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> always re-hydrate your yeast
> 
> h34r:


For we the great unwashed beginners, a few words such as "by doing this" would be great !


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## Liam_snorkel (24/10/13)

SipSip said:


> For we the great unwashed beginners, a few words such as "by doing this" would be great !


context of Mr Lethal's post: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/74450-re-hydrate-v-not/


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## Adr_0 (24/10/13)

SipSip said:


> For we the great unwashed beginners, a few words such as "by doing this" would be great !


Pour about 100mL of tap water in the high 20's (temperature) into a wide glass, sprinkle the yeasties on top and cover with alfoil. Don't touch for 15min.

After 15min, come back and stir for 2-3minutes, re-cover with alfoil and repeat after 5min. Then pitch...


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## bum (24/10/13)

Or however the manufacturer recommends.

Cooled, boiled water might be the go, rather than hot tap water too.


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## Ducatiboy stu (24/10/13)

Liam_snorkel said:


> context of Mr Lethal's post: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/74450-re-hydrate-v-not/


Just dont mention the other liquid yeast one


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## MartinOC (24/10/13)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> If following a recipe and measuring out hops, LABEL them clearly in the bowls so you don't switch your bittering hops around with your aroma hops!!!
> 
> LABEL your cleaning products/solutions, LABEL your beer lines whether they have been cleaned, rinsed, sanitized so that you avoid tapping a keg with lines still containing sodium perc or the likes :unsure:


Hmm....'Sounds like short-term memory loss to me.

'Sure you're not drinking too much???


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## Adr_0 (24/10/13)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> Just dont mention the other liquid yeast one


you're meant to _de_-hydrate those fancy ones...


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## jlm (24/10/13)

HBHB said:


> Remove the stir bar before dumping the yeast starter into the fermenter. or hold it firmly out of the pour by holding another magnet to the outside of the Erlenmeyer Flask.


Whenever you're ordering from your favourite HBS that stocks stir bars.......get another.


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## Bribie G (24/10/13)

Always sanitize the can opener.


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## Ducatiboy stu (24/10/13)

Adr_0 said:


> you're meant to _de_-hydrate those fancy ones...


I just put the yeast under the kettle burner. Nice and warm. Dries out in no time. Then just re-hydrate to the method recomended.


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## Adr_0 (24/10/13)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> I just put the yeast under the kettle burner. Nice and warm. Dries out in no time. Then just re-hydrate to the method recomended.


... Woks every time?


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## Ducatiboy stu (24/10/13)

You need extra if you re-hydrate in plain water, appatently


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## mwd (24/10/13)

Don't bother with hot water baths for cans just stick them in the oven at lowest setting for half an hour. Wear gloves.


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## Adr_0 (24/10/13)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> You need extra if you re-hydrate in plain water, appatently


Maybe, but it does give you the lightest colour


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## Pickaxe (24/10/13)

I rehydrate my dry extract, seems to give good results.


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## Ducatiboy stu (24/10/13)

Pickaxe said:


> I rehydrate my dry extract, seems to give good results.


Thats a pretty radical concept.


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## verysupple (24/10/13)

I find the my beers turn out best if I don't rehydrate _myself _too much during the brew day :lol: .


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## toncils (24/10/13)

OH OH - always use hops.

Thought I could get away without...it didn't work.


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## philmud (25/10/13)

If you're brewing in your garage, with gas, crack a door.


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## lukiferj (25/10/13)

When no chilling, wear pants when squeezing the cube.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (25/10/13)

Tropical_Brews said:


> Don't bother with hot water baths for cans just stick them in the oven at lowest setting for half an hour. Wear gloves.


don't know about you but my kettle boils in about 5 minutes... are you boiling water with a magnifying glass in the sun?


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## Yob (25/10/13)

lukiferj said:


> When no chilling, wear pants when squeezing the cube.


I hope Manticle reads this...


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## Ducatiboy stu (25/10/13)

When brewing, wear pants....or at least shorts


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## lukiferj (25/10/13)

Brewing is not too bad but no chilling is just way too close to where the action happens.


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## Pickaxe (25/10/13)

lukiferj said:


> When no chilling, wear pants when squeezing the cube.


I'm more to the pantless Walter white school of thinking.


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## Not For Horses (25/10/13)

A wort pump without a hose clamp is a wort fountain.


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## Pickaxe (25/10/13)

Brewing Bad


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## bmarshall (25/10/13)

Follow the recipe!


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## Adr_0 (25/10/13)

Not For Horses said:


> A wort pump without a hose clamp is a wort fountain.


Speaking of which, these are 1,000,000% easier to use that the hex/screw versions. 12-22mm seems to be a good size for 1/2" hoses over 1/2" tube.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/clamp-hose-fit-sontax-12-22mm-butterfly-screw-hsb022_p3100015


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## bum (25/10/13)

bmarshall said:


> Follow the recipe!


Read lots of recipes. Make your own.


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## Black Devil Dog (25/10/13)

*Do* set the alarm on your phone for all your step/addition times and keep your phone in your pocket.






*Don't* go and do your grocery shopping while your wort is boiling. :blink:


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## Mardoo (25/10/13)

Pickaxe said:


> I rehydrate my dry extract, seems to give good results.


But then you can't snort your beer...


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## Adr_0 (25/10/13)

Judanero said:


> Calibrate hydrometer(against water @ 20oc should read 1.000), calibrate thermometer (in a glass of mostly ice, bit of water should read 0oc)
> 
> 
> Take notes on what happened on brew day, unless you are into the pints before mash in.. then all bets are off.


Do this your bi-metal mash tun/kettle thermometers too. Your bi-metal thermometers should have a calibration screw; for glass thermometers write the required adjustment to get the actual temperature on some masking tape or a sticky label. Or, label 'true' on your best and only use this one. 

Soak your hydrometer tube + hydrometer in PBW then rinse to get the most accurate readings for calibration (or general use). Dirty glass will affect the meniscus and throw off your readings. Use the same water as you use for brewing for your zero.

Thoroughly stir your pre-boil wort before drawing off a sample, cool this to 20°C and record, then check this against your refractometer Brix measurement to get your correction factor, with something like this:
http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/
and _adjust your factor_ until the OG matches your hydrometer sample. This factor should account for dextrines and other sugars on top of your sucrose.

Despite the temptation don't read off the SG from your refractometer, as this has not been correlated properly...


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## WarmBeer (25/10/13)

Wow.

I thought this whole brewing caper was meant to be fun...


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## Not For Horses (25/10/13)

WarmBeer said:


> Wow.
> 
> I thought this whole brewing caper was meant to be fun...


Cleaning sweet sticky oatmeal stout off a white wall is what I do for fun.


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## Ducatiboy stu (25/10/13)

WarmBeer said:


> Wow.
> 
> I thought this whole brewing caper was meant to be fun...


yeah...well we where going to mention that aspect of it .... But then everyone would want to try it


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## Adr_0 (25/10/13)

WarmBeer said:


> Wow.
> 
> I thought this whole brewing caper was meant to be fun...


It's the most fun you can have without your pants on.

...wait.


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## Adr_0 (26/10/13)

Remove chlorine from brewing and top-up water.

And I guess rinse any chlorine-based chleaners with boiling water a few times to make sure it isn't carried into the beer.


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## Judanero (26/10/13)

If you regularly brew into the wee hours of the morning, your neighbours across the road(that look directly into your garage of brewing paraphernalia) will think you are running a meth lab. Or so I discovered this morning.


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## bum (26/10/13)

Cops?


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## Judanero (26/10/13)

No, my neighbour told me (he talks to them) thankfully he set them straight it is just beery goodness I cook,not crystal meth.


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## Mattress (26/10/13)

Not For Horses said:


> Cleaning sweet sticky oatmeal stout off a white wall is what I do for fun.


Mate, what you do in the privacy of your own bedroom is your business
No need to share it here.


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## bradsbrew (26/10/13)

Have a second LPG bottle handy. Even better make sure the second bottle has gas in it.


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## GrumpyPaul (30/10/13)

Dont take your post boil gravity readings in a plastic hydrometer tube - it melts.

Especially when you have a refractometer....


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## Bribie G (30/10/13)

When reading gravities, do not point your refractometer in the direction of:


Next doors kids in their swimmers on their slippery dip
Mrs Next door hanging out washing in her nightie
Bro boys next door swapping rego plates on a "new" car
Passing cops
Or planes


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## justatad (30/10/13)

Of course no brew day would be complete without forgetting the whirfloc tablet.


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## Adr_0 (30/10/13)

justatad said:


> Of course no brew day would be complete without forgetting the whirfloc tablet.


amen. more than half I've forgotten or added too late (Kopperfloc) - think it works best in the 15-20min range.


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## Charst (30/10/13)

GrumpyPaul said:


> 10 minute IPA does not mean 10 minute boil.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk


Although it can if your using extract.


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## Charst (30/10/13)

Uncrushed wheat is an decent substitute if your desperately trying to unstick a mash and forgot to buy rice hulls. (but unlike rice hulls I wouldn't add them at the start of the mash).


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## djar007 (30/10/13)

Never trust the wife to help out. Can get ugly.


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## Adr_0 (3/11/13)

bradsbrew said:


> Have a second LPG bottle handy. Even better make sure the second bottle has gas in it.


Well well well... just finished a brew that did the 'whoosh' and ran out of gas with around 1 minute left in the boil - zero class, total ass. I think if I _didn't_ have the 2nd bottle standing by it would have been gone halfway through the boil...


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## Josh SA (5/11/13)

Remember to release the pressure in your beer tap line b4 connecting to a new keg.

Forgot to do this for the third time the other day. Yeasty cloudy beer. PITA.


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