# Imperial Stout From Tin Stuff?



## redunderthebed (28/4/10)

Can you using say coopers stout as your base to make an imperial stout. I love my stouts and this has always being a kind of beer that i've wanted to try/make.

Cheers
Adam


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## zoidbergmerc (28/4/10)

check out the recipe DB, there are a few partials in there that might interest you. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...pedb&type=1

If you're not sure on how to go about making a partial check out the "guide to going all grain for $30" thread on here. Helped me a lot. I couldn't find it for you though.


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## jbowers (28/4/10)

Apparently a toucan came 2nd in an imp stout competition a while back. Go for it. Just wack in 2 cans of stout, some DME and some dex and maybe some aroma/flavour hops if you please.


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## redunderthebed (28/4/10)

jbowers said:


> Apparently a toucan came 2nd in an imp stout competition a while back. Go for it. Just wack in 2 cans of stout, some DME and some dex and maybe some aroma/flavour hops if you please.




Sounds good i was thinking of maybe adding some good dark chocolate in it thoughts?


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## gregb (29/4/10)

I did one a few years back. 

Coopers Stout, Coopers Dark Ale, Coopers Lager. 500g LDME, 350g dextrose. All three yeasts. water to 22L.

Cheers,
Greg


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## brettprevans (29/4/10)

Search for dan rayners RIS. It won a comp afew years back
3 tins goo
some extra malt
specialty grain
hops
lots of yeast

nice stuff


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## Mark Van Moolenbroek (29/4/10)

I am also about to attempt a similar stout using a tin of Morgans Irish Stout and a tin of Coopers Real Ale, clearing up some excess tins before moving onto an attempt at AG.

was thinking the two tins, 750g ddme, 200g light choc malt grains, some fuggles or goldings hops, both yeasts, to 22l.

Not sure how it will go?


Cheers

Mark


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## WarmBeer (29/4/10)

Got one aging at the moment:

2x Coopers Stout
750gm LDME
500gm Dex
~300gm assorted grains (cleanup of excess leftovers from previous brews)
~20gm of Fuggles @ 10 mins to provide some extra hoppy goodness

Make up to 18lt, ferment at 19 deg using Nottingham.

It's about 9% alc, but still needs a couple of months to smooth out a little more. By end of winter should be Yum!


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## Fourstar (29/4/10)

Q BribieG and a certified recycled photo and/or recipe..... :icon_cheers:


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## WarmBeer (29/4/10)

Fourstar said:


> Q BribieG and a certified recycled photo and/or recipe..... :icon_cheers:


Can I step up to the plate instead?

Here's what Nottingham does when given this amount of dark fermentables. Thank Bacchus for glad wrap rather than airlocks...


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## jbowers (29/4/10)

citymorgue2 said:


> Search for dan rayners RIS. It won a comp afew years back
> 3 tins goo
> some extra malt
> specialty grain
> ...



Can't find the recipe - any links?


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## mkstalen (29/4/10)

WarmBeer said:


> Can I step up to the plate instead?
> 
> Here's what Nottingham does when given this amount of dark fermentables. Thank Bacchus for glad wrap rather than airlocks...



Holy crap! Note to self - Got to start using cling wrap...


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## Bribie G (29/4/10)

Fourstar said:


> Q BribieG and a certified recycled photo and/or recipe..... :icon_cheers:



2 cans Coopers Stout
1kg dex
1kg LDME
Nottingham

Dry hop with 30g of anything you feel like after 4 days.

2009 Nationals:




Warning, around 9% alcohol. Two tallies in an hour is the same as skulling 8 stubbies of VB so be cautious. :icon_drunk:


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## Fourstar (29/4/10)

BribieG said:


> 2009 Nationals:
> Warning, around 9% alcohol. Two tallies in an hour is the same as skulling 8 stubbies of VB so be cautious. :icon_drunk:



You where up against some stiff competition. I judged the second placer at VICBREW... :icon_drool2:


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## Coach_R (29/4/10)

Bottled this one about 3 weeks ago...

1x can Coopers Stout
1x can Coopers Dark Ale
500g x Dex
300g x Carapils
300g x Cara aroma
300g x Bairds Choc
20g x POR @ 60 (i think, not sure as don't have recipe in front of me)
2x kit Yeast

I'm pretty happy with it, had one a few nights ago nice head, pretty bitter but that doesn't bother me...

Should be the shit within a month or so :icon_drool2:


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## brettprevans (29/4/10)

pinched from G&G website

*Enhanced Kit Version*This style of beer truly lends itself to kit brewing and I suggest that there are two ways to go. Simplest is to use two kits plus 500 gm LME to brew a 15 litre batch which will give you everything required for an acceptable IRS. Secondly you can use one kit and enhance it with 1.5 kg of light malt extract (syrup or dry) as well as 1 kg of black malt extract (preferably syrup). Either of these two methods may be further enhanced by incorporating a mini mash into the process by placing half a litre of cold water in a saucepan and adding 800 gm of dark crystal malt and 200 gm of malted wheat, heat up SLOWLY (over a 15 to 20 minute period) until just short of boiling. Strain the liquid into your fermenter, and discard the grain residue. Either of these versions should give an OG of around 1.090.
Use the yeast supplied with the kit for the brew but be prepared to pitch a second yeast to finish off the fermentation (see Brewing Notes above). Follow the usual kit instructions for the remainder of the brew.

*Malt Extract Version*
Base Malt - 2 kg light malt extract, 1.5 kg amber malt extract and 500 gm black malt extract.
Grains - 800 gm dark crystal malt, and 200 gm wheat malt.
(Follow the mini mash instructions in the enhanced kit instructions above)
Hops - Almost any hop can be used for bittering but a high alpha hop will be the most economical. Aim at around 65 IBU's. Quantity will vary depending on the %AA of the hops being used. (Pride of Ringwood at around 10%AA are suitable - Grain & Grape staff will be happy to do the calculations for you). Total boil time should be 90 minutes with the hops boiled for only 60 minutes.
Yeasts - I recommend Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale as it is designated for high gravity beers! If you prefer the convenience of dry yeast then try DCL Safale S-04. In either case be prepared to pitch a second yeast to finish off the fermentation (see Brewing Notes above).

*Full Grain Version *
Grain brewers often increase the grain bill a little and make a small quantity of IRS from the first runnings of a traditional stout mash, thereby producing a high gravity beer and a small beer from the one mash. Therefore the grain bill will be expressed in % terms so as to allow for variations in batch size.
80% Pale Ale
3.5% Roast Barley
3% Dark Crystal
3% Amber malt
2.5% Chocolate malt
Mashing regimes are many and varied. Most modern malts are very well modified and only need a simple single step infusion mash to obtain very good results.
Hops - Aim at 60 to 70 IBU's using any high alpha variety (Pride of Ringwood at around 10%AA are suitable). Total boil time should be 90 min with the hops boiled for only 60 min.
Yeasts - I recommend Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale as it is designated for high gravity beers! If you prefer the convenience of dry yeast then try DCL Safale S-04. In either case be prepared to pitch a second yeast to finish off the fermentation (see Brewing Notes above).


*Dan's recipe* is below (Best beer of Show 2007?). K+K & steeped grains:
500g cracked roast barley
500g cracked light crystal
1.7kg can Draught
1.7kg can Porter
1.7kg can Stout (no brand names are listed)
1kg brewing sugar
1kg dried brew booster

60g styrian goldings @ 60
40g EKG @ 15
20g saaz @ 0

He steeped the grains in 6L water, and boiled that for 60 mins, with the styrian added at start boil, the EKG added 15 mins from flameout, and the saaz at flamout. 

Then he just added the 3 cans into his fermenter, put the boiling wort on top of that, stirred to dissolve, and added cold water up to 20L mark. 
It says he aerated by pouring from one fermenter into another several times,
pitched 40g of yeast, 
and it seems like he used 2 fermenters to ferment in, probably at 10L each, cause the krauesen that comes of a good RIS will creep out of the fermenter and strangle you in your sleep if you dont give it bollock loads of head space.

Also says to use champagne yeast to finish it off, expect a OG of 1115, and an FG of 1028.


i ddid this recipe ages ago and used windsor yeast. worked a treat


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## Rod (29/4/10)

citymorgue2 said:


> Search for dan rayners RIS. It won a comp afew years back
> 3 tins goo
> some extra malt
> specialty grain
> ...




does RIS -- mean ----royal imperial stout


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## WarmBeer (29/4/10)

Rod said:


> does RIS -- mean ----royal imperial stout


Close - "*Russian* Imperial Stout"

Not that it was invented in Russia, but it became very popular in the court of Queen Catherine the Great.


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## redunderthebed (29/4/10)

I'm thinking of doing this project as my entry to the local show homebrewing section. 

Cheers for the ideas guys.


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## Rod (29/4/10)

citymorgue2 said:


> pinched from G&G website
> 
> *Dan's recipe* is below (Best beer of Show 2007?). K+K & steeped grains:
> 500g cracked roast barley
> ...




in this recipe it calls for porter

could only find cascade porter in G&G

what would the difference be between porter and stout *in this recipe *

ofcourse can use the cascade , just wondering


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## Rod (10/5/10)

Got all the ingredients 

except 

40g of champagne yeast

cannot buy bulk , not keen on buying 5 packs at 8 grams for $ 20 , just for the yeast

one supplier had 35 g pack at $8 , ok , but wanted a minimum order of $28

so plan to make up a dextrose solution , say 100g to a litre 

add my 8g of yeast 

and use next day

will this be ok

will this be enough time


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## zebba (10/5/10)

Rod said:


> Got all the ingredients
> 
> except
> 
> ...


Pretty sure that it was 40g of whatever yeast you would use for a stout (Nottingham, for example), and then throw in some champagne yeast at the end to help it drop a few more gravity points.

Champagne yeast is better in high alc environments then your average ale yeast, but you still want the ale yeast to be contributing to the flavour profile.


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## Rod (10/5/10)

Zebba said:


> Pretty sure that it was 40g of whatever yeast you would use for a stout (Nottingham, for example), and then throw in some champagne yeast at the end to help it drop a few more gravity points.
> 
> Champagne yeast is better in high alc environments then your average ale yeast, but you still want the ale yeast to be contributing to the flavour profile.



It says he aerated by pouring from one fermenter into another several times,
pitched 40g of yeast, 
and it seems like he used 2 fermenters to ferment in, probably at 10L each, cause the krauesen that comes of a good RIS will creep out of the fermenter and strangle you in your sleep if you dont give it bollock loads of head space.

Also says to use champagne yeast to finish it off, expect a OG of 1115, and an FG of 1028.

It does say that

maybe add the champagne yeast at racking of when FG is about 1040


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## brettprevans (10/5/10)

Zebba said:


> Pretty sure that it was 40g of whatever yeast you would use for a stout (Nottingham, for example), and then throw in some champagne yeast at the end to help it drop a few more gravity points.
> 
> Champagne yeast is better in high alc environments then your average ale yeast, but you still want the ale yeast to be contributing to the flavour profile.


yup.

3 packs of nottingham then champ to finish off. you can cut down on the yeast used by making starters (which you should really do anyway for such a big beer). and its a hell of a lot cheaper than using multiple packs.

Dan Rayner's version dpecifically says no brands are listed. 
he uses three kits for the assumable reason that he wanted the specs of each type of kit. if you were to use an extra tin of stout rather than a porter, you'll get more bitterness, darker colour etc etc verymore of what a stout is. it doesnt really matter what brand you use (or why you think you need to buy it from G&G)

edit: sorry for any confusion. use 40g of yeast to ferment and if the SG wont drop low enough you may need champaign yeast. that was what Dan has been quoted as saying. now if you follow the recipe and stay under 13%alc, and make a big enough starter or use enough yeast (like windsor etc), then you wont need champ yeast. the champ yeast is only suggested because of its high alc tolerance.


edit: i didnt post anything about racking or adding yeast at 1040. not sure where you got that from. also my post says i used windor yeast


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## Rod (10/5/10)

Also says to use champagne yeast to finish it off, expect a OG of 1115, and an FG of 1028

according to my calculations this would mean about 12.2%

drink it like wine 

in moderation


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## benno1973 (10/5/10)

citymorgue2 said:


> ...you can cut down on the yeast used by making starters...



You could make a mild, ferment with a single pack of Nott, and then pitch directly onto that. That way you get another beer to drink that is essentially a starter, and it doesn't cost much more than 3 packs of Nott!


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## RobboMC (26/11/12)

Rod said:


> Also says to use champagne yeast to finish it off, expect a OG of 1115, and an FG of 1028
> 
> according to my calculations this would mean about 12.2%
> 
> ...




I recently made a 9% Porter that was bordering on RIS in style. at way over the Robust Porter abv you really couldn't call it Porter anyway.

We first tasted the batch at midnight while waiting for the FA Cup final to come on TV, and sipped a single 250ml glass each for over an hour. One middy of this stuff is plenty.


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## petesbrew (26/11/12)

I entered a 3can RIS in a special case swap a while back - When the FG Stopped at 1034 I split the batch, half-carbonating one in champagne bottles, and racking the rest onto a farmhouse ale yeast, which then got down to 1018. 2 reasonably different beers, both delicious.


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