# Keg King Intertap



## nosco

I was just on the KK site and saw the SS Interseal taps. Just wondering if anyone knows anything about them. I dont know of any forward seal taps appart from Perlick and the plastic ones.

They are $44.95 which sounds good but maybe cheap quality. They have interchangeable spouts so you can get a stout, sparkler or growler filler. Sounds kick ass.

Maybe too early to tell but has anyone heard about them.


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## Yob

Been briefly discussed in a status so no thread (until now)

I've not heard any real world trials, as is often the case, cracks take a little while to appear, personally, I'll stick with Andale and keep an eye out for bargains that bring the cost base onto par with cheaper models.

I got seal kits when I first got my taps, as an indicator of the quality of Andale, never had to use them.


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## nosco

Andales would be sweet but a bit outa my price range and more with the snap locks. I wouldnt even know where to start with that setup.
2nd hand Perlick flow controls from is more my speed. A few more taps would be nice. A stout tap would be a bonus.


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## DU99

these intertaps look like perlick.seal arrangement is at the front of the tap.Keg King have a section unit to look at.can even get a spring that sits between the shank and the back of the tap that makes the unit self closing


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## Crusty

Andales are about the best you can get IMO.
I've had several different taps over the years & gone back to Andale Florytes. All you need to order is the snaplok tap, handle, snaplok panel adapter if going through a fridge or keezer collar & a cooler coupling to suit your beer line.
Best pour you'll get from any tap & believe me, there is a difference.


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## Blind Dog

Crusty said:


> All you need to order is the snaplok tap, handle, snaplok panel adapter if going through a fridge or keezer collar & a cooler coupling to suit your beer line.


and a divorce lawyer when SWMBO finds out how much you spent


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## takai

I was down at KK today getting some stuff and so had a look at the InterTaps... and promptly pulled one apart:

The tap itself.






The shuttle inside





Snout of the shuttle, looking up the threaded spout.






Stout spout with aerator.





Stout Spout





Growler spout





Overall it seemed quite well made, a bit more complex than the Perlick 625s i have, and there is a potential for gunge to build up around the shuttle, although that would be relatively uncommon with a reasonable cleaning cycle.

Im tempted to pick one up for the party keg.


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## barls

that looks like the old shirons.


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## adam77

Hi,

Just checking to see if anyone has received any feedback or knows anything about these new Keg King taps? I was thinking about giving them a go, but thought I would check first.

http://kegking.com.au/intertap-ss-tap-only-stainless-steel.html

Thanks,

Adam.


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## dicko

They look like the original Micromatics which were the "forward sealing" tap before Perlicks came out.
There was some argument over a patent but I was not really interested so it was not "saved" in my memory.

If the chinese started making them they would not generally give a "Fat Yaks Toss Bag" about a patent.

I have 4 Micromatics which were imported from the states probably around 11 years ago and they are still going strong.
If these are the same then they will be good.


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## barls

merged with previous thread


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## dicko

barls said:


> merged with previous thread


Apology Barls,
I was not aware of the other thread.


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## barls

all good i only remembered because i posted in it that they look like the shirons i have.


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## dicko

barls said:


> all good i only remembered because i posted in it that they look like the shirons i have.


I think that Shirons may have been the Micromatics.

I got mine in a mini bulk buy from the states but then when they were retailed in Australia I recon it was under the Shirron banner.

Someone will tell me one way or the other


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## dicko

This is what my taps look like and they have "ultraflo" written on the body of the tap.


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## dicko

Above, I called my taps "Micromatics" but on reflection (through a very hazy beer glass) I think that they were called Ventmatics.

Now I am really confused. :lol:


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## jer88

I've just brought a couple of stainless steel inter taps for my coffin keezer I'm making. I'll let yous know if there any good when I get it all up and running


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## Brew Forky

Does anyone know if these are the same taps that come on the Keg King Series 3 kegerator?


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## dicko

Brew Forky said:


> Does anyone know if these are the same taps that come on the Keg King Series 3 kegerator?


Not when I bought my Kegorator.

Mine came with very ordinary Chinese taps, a Brumby knock off if you like.

I fitted my Ventmatics / Shirron / Micromatics to mine.

The taps on mine were metal but I believe now that the taps that are supplied now are actually plastic.


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## Brew Forky

Thanks mate. Looking into Kegging. It had to happen one day.....


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## dicko

Brew Forky said:


> Thanks mate. Looking into Kegging. It had to happen one day.....


If I was going another kegorator i would see if I could but it without the crap font and taps they come with and then buy quality parts to fit to it.


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## zeggie

Brew Forky said:


> Does anyone know if these are the same taps that come on the Keg King Series 3 kegerator?


You can actually buy the kegerator with the intertap taps it appears

http://kegking.com.au/keg-couplers-and-keg-disconnects/kegerators/keg-master-series-3-triple-tap-intertap-ss.html


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## Brew Forky

There you go. I've been watching the one on Ebay and hadn't seen that page.


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## zeggie

Bought a couple of these taps. Seem good quality. Will post some feedback once Ive used them a few weeks.


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## SimoB

I've been using these for the past two weeks, I love them. Can't fault them at this point.


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## Jase

dicko said:


> Above, I called my taps "Micromatics" but on reflection (through a very hazy beer glass) I think that they were called Ventmatics.
> 
> Now I am really confused. :lol:


I've had my ventmatics for 11 years. They still look brand new. Wish I bought more of them!!!! 

Sorry for heading off topic!!!!


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## Mattwa

Jase said:


> I've had my ventmatics for 11 years. They still look brand new. Wish I bought more of them!!!!
> 
> Sorry for heading off topic!!!!


 :icon_offtopic: Apparently Vent-matic has re-launched.


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## Spiesy

Mattwa said:


> :icon_offtopic: Apparently Vent-matic has re-launched.


Pretty impressive write up.


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## Rocker1986

dicko said:


> If I was going another kegorator i would see if I could but it without the crap font and taps they come with and then buy quality parts to fit to it.


I did that - but I didn't buy the Kegerator from Keg King. I bought it by itself plus lines, fittings etc. from Craftbrewer and then sourced taps and the font etc. elsewhere, mostly eBay. I have Perlick 650SS Flow control taps on mine. Has been going a couple of months now and very happy with it all so far.


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## CoxR

So are the keg king taps a copy of the Vent-Matic taps then?


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## Keg King

[SIZE=10.5pt]Hey guys. It's Kee here from Keg King. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Just in case you guys are interested at seeing how the design works you can watch this video which we uploaded a few weeks ago.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Intertap - Forward Sealing Taps[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]https://youtu.be/h_tvk8iCRCw[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]If you want to see how the taps are assembled you can just download the parts diagram in PDF format from the website here:[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]http://www.intertap.beer/products/[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]If any of you wanted to do a vigorous review of the taps just let me know and I will supply some taps for you at half price on the condition that you post your review on this forum. This offer is valid for 1 month. I would prefer if the person doing the review had already used Micromatic, Perlick, or Andale taps so they have the experience to compare the difference. I think once you use the taps you will be convinced of their performance.[/SIZE]



Cheers


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## MPP

Keg King said:


> [SIZE=10.5pt]Hey guys. It's Kee here from Keg King. [/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt]Just in case you guys are interested at seeing how the design works you can watch this video which we uploaded a few weeks ago.[/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt]Intertap - Forward Sealing Taps[/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt]https://youtu.be/h_tvk8iCRCw[/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt]If you want to see how the taps are assembled you can just download the parts diagram in PDF format from the website here:[/SIZE]
> 
> [SIZE=10.5pt]http://www.intertap.beer/products/[/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt]If any of you wanted to do a vigorous review of the taps just let me know and I will supply some taps for you at half price on the condition that you post your review on this forum. This offer is valid for 1 month. I would prefer if the person doing the review had already used Micromatic, Perlick, or Andale taps so they have the experience to compare the difference. I think once you use the taps you will be convinced of their performance.[/SIZE]
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


I'll take you up on this - have been getting around to replacing my faucets. Have used a Perlick 650SS for a while (will be replacing the other two which are cheapies) and whilst it's good there are certainly areas for improvement.


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## CoxR

That's a very generous offer Kee. I have built my coffin keezer to take 5 taps and have currently 2 Perlick 650SS installed since Christmas last year and a few cheaper taps. I was planning on fitting more as 650ss taps in due time however a leak here and there out of the taps has had me looking at alternatives. Hence my question above about these taps.


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## spog

The gold plated tap looks shmick.


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## Tropico

Damn, I was too fast and already got one at full price (with the return spring that I am not currently using). Sits beside Perlick 630SS and 525SS.


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## DU99

these would have to be better than the dripping perlick i use to have


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## Tropico

If you got leaking Perlicks, I'd be more than happy to take them off your hands, but they aren't worth much if they leak.

Mine don't leak, and neither does the Intertap.


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## balconybrewer

Does the intertap have the standard rear thread to attach to shank adapters that mate with snaplocks on fonts?


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## Keg King

balconybrewer said:


> Does the intertap have the standard rear thread to attach to shank adapters that mate with snaplocks on fonts?


Hi balconybrewer,

We are bringing out our range of KingLoks early November. One of the components will be a KingLok male adapter x tap shank adapter, so you can connect any of our Intertaps (or most other taps) to your current snaplock/fatlock female fittings.


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## keedoery

Tropico said:


> Damn, I was too fast and already got one at full price (with the return spring that I am not currently using). Sits beside Perlick 630SS and 525SS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMAG0108.jpg


that looks like the perfect test fridge with our tap right next to the Perlick ones. If you remember it would be great if you could report back with some feedback after a few months of use.


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## MPP

G'day Kee, how would I go about taking you up on that offer? As I said I was looking to replace a couple of my cheap taps anyway and they'll be sitting next to a perlick 650ss for comparison. Cheers.


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## sp0rk

Keg King said:


> Hi balconybrewer,
> 
> We are bringing out our range of KingLoks early November. One of the components will be a KingLok male adapter x tap shank adapter, so you can connect any of our Intertaps (or most other taps) to your current snaplock/fatlock female fittings.


Any chance of a lock-in adaptor?


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## n87

sp0rk said:


> Any chance of a lock-in adaptor?


Ive got a pair of Lancer lockin adapters for sale


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## Keg King

sp0rk said:


> Any chance of a lock-in adaptor?


To be completely honest, no. Sorry but they just aren't common enough to go to all the expense of tooling. Take up n87's offer or convert to KingLok's and give us a call!


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## sp0rk

Keg King said:


> To be completely honest, no. Sorry but they just aren't common enough to go to all the expense of tooling. Take up n87's offer or convert to KingLok's and give us a call!


Thanks Dan, I knew it was a long shot but I thought I'd ask 

I'll let you know n87, my keezer died not long ago, so more brewing purchases on top of a new chest freezer have to be passed through the minister of finance


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## Topher

Thanks for the half price deal Kee. 

First impressions are great. Ive taken it apart to get rid of the usual smelly manufacturing oil residue and it looks well made. All the threads screw in and out nicely. 

I bought the stout tap and growler filler and they look slick too. There is a 4 hole restrictor plate as well as a plastic thingy disc/restrictor underneath. Not sure if I should use both at the same time. Either way it all comes apart easily for cleaning. 

Will report back after ive done some xbeerimenting.


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## flytact

I'd love to give these a try. I can compare them with 425's, 525 and a 630.
I was about to buy a couple Vent-Matics.
In the US though


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## Mikeyr

OK chaps a couple of weeks since the last post ...... any further updates on the Intertaps?


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## Topher

All good for me. Ill do a proper rundown when i get a chance to take photos etc. 

The growler filler spout is cool. Ive used that heaps (actually just leave it on and pour glasses from thus spout), and the restricter/sparkler is cool for lowly carbonated ales (even though i don't have nitro yet). 

Easy to take apart to clean. No leaks....just three lonely drips after each pour, exactly the same as my perlicks. 
It did take 2 good long soak and scrub and rinses in pbw to get the oily smell and taste away from my precious beer though. Thats my only (quite minor) gripe at this stage.


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## Tropico

Almost two months since I hooked up the Intertap (SS, no flow control). I also bought the auto-closing spring, assembled it and gave it a try, but ended up removing it before I connected the beer.

I only have the standard beer spout, and took this off to have a look when it first arrived. The inside of the screw-on spout looked as though it was a bit rough and I thought this may lead to foaming problems.

I am still yet to decide if the screw-on spouts are:
A. a great innovative idea,
B. a simplified manufacturing process,
C. a (functional) sales gimmick, or 
D. all of the above

The feel of opening the tap is a slightly "raspy" and not completely smooth, but this is only a minor comment and does not affect the operation of the tap at all.

So all I have said so far are observations and impressions, and the proof of the pudding is in the eating.

The Intertap pulls a great beer, opening and closing doesn't give any squirts, and mine doesn't drip. I still don't use the spring, and I have no intention of putting it in, there is no need as far as I can see but this is my personal choice.

I doubt if anyone could tell the difference between a beer from the Intertap or a Perlick and I have to say they are equals.

So my last comment is that the Intertap is great value for money.


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## Mikeyr

Gentlemen, many thanks for that, going to give a couple a go, was going full hog Perlick 650's but will wait until "sulfergate" is sorted. Need 4 ultimately anyway.


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## lael

What is this 'sulfurgate' you speak of?



Mikeyr said:


> Gentlemen, many thanks for that, going to give a couple a go, was going full hog Perlick 650's but will wait until "sulfergate" is sorted. Need 4 ultimately anyway.


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## Rocker1986

Some folks are experiencing sulfur like smells out of the Perlick 650SS flow control taps after running Starsan through them.


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## quadbox

Tropico said:


> The Intertap pulls a great beer, opening and closing doesn't give any squirts, and mine doesn't drip. I still don't use the spring, and I have no intention of putting it in, there is no need as far as I can see but this is my personal choice.


Must say after like fifteen years in the industry I've only worked one single bar with spring-loaded taps, and I *hated them*. Like, could not stand them at all. From memory they were some variant of those euro ball-style taps you occasionally see, the funny looking ones. 

Easily the best taps I've ever had in a professional bar were andale florytes. But I tell you what. They are sure ******* expensive. I worked with the older vent-matics for a while and they were 80% as good and a fraction of the price. Which really matters when you've got sixteen or more taps to maintain, pouring commercial quantities. Florytes DO need maintenance though, that slide plate is (as deliberately designed) a disposable part, and does need replacing. About once a year in a commercial bar of normal traffic. Of course on a home scale you're opening and closing much less regularly

For my home setup I'm really interested in these intertaps, especially with the screw-on growler filler like the old pre-pearl perlics used to have. They're currently top of the shortlist for my new keezer, with the price of the dollar atm.

EDIT - As a side note, god it's fun coming in to a bar you've never worked in and finding all the stuff they havent been looking after at all. My personal best being a bar I was at on contract for a few weeks, at which I did a full line clean, and was getting complete bloody beer grogans coming out of the taps... Eww. And the initial runnings through the coopers pale tap came out looking like guinness, there was that much beer stone in the lines


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## takai

Personally i like spring loaded taps for home setups, far less likely that someone will walk away from a tap with it 99% closed but still dribbling out.


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## Tropico

Cool, each to his own and I don't have any problems with diversity. Of course, sometimes its better to present a virgin with a nice beer than let them pull it themselves.

Edit: so are you going to try the Intertap with a spring?


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## takai

I will likely use an Intertap alongside my Perlick 630 and 525 when i finally upgrade from the bodgy fridge im using to something that holds more than one keg. (both of which have springs in them)

Until then though its a bit academic.


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## Kingmaa

I got one for a new jockey box. Use perlick PCs on keezer. Seems well made, drips a little post pour just like a perlick. Pours well, seems like a good deal at this point.


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## spog

I'm interested in these taps for my planned keezer build,they are cheaper than Perlicks but I'm waiting for more info from users.
Yeah one product doesn't suit all,and if I decide to go with Intertap it'll only be if they are available in brass finish to suit my build.
So keep the user experience coming.


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## mofox1

Kingmaa said:


> I got one for a new jockey box. Use perlick PCs on keezer. Seems well made, drips a little post pour just like a perlick. Pours well, seems like a good deal at this point.


Looks like your cat is waiting for you to pull the damn tap.

Is it a tonk? I've got one, sure is a f'king impatient bastard.


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## Mikeyr

Looks like a Tonk ....... now that's a cat with attitude! Gotta love em ....cause they'll kill ya in your sleep if you don't!!!

PS loving all the feedback, decided to order one to play with ..... and a perlick to compare with!

Waiting waiting waiting ...... and it's bloody 41C here!


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## Kingmaa

Burmese. Not keen on beer but mad coffee fiend. He's pleasant enough as long as someone plays fetch with him dog style for a couple of hours a day... was shitty because i was using one of his food bowls as a drip tray i think


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## Mikeyr

Kingmaa said:


> Burmese. Not keen on beer but mad coffee fiend. He's pleasant enough as long as someone plays fetch with him dog style for a couple of hours a day... was shitty because i was using one of his food bowls as a drip tray i think


Can read the headline "home brewer found drowned in 1 inch of stale beer, only evidence police could find was a rather please looking cat with single claw extended!"


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## takai

Anyone used the flow control models yet? Adding another 2 taps to my new kegerator, and debating what to use. Already locked in one standard Intertap, but wondering whether i hold off on the other one and get a FC tap.


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## Wolfman

I am following this as I have perlshits and am looking for an alternative. My flow control perlshits weak like a sieve an rather than go back to brumbies I want an alternative.


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## paulyman

I've been watching the Keg King site but they are marked as "Out of Stock" and have been for quite a while.


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## Mikeyr

They are new and when I talked to kk last month, they said first batch due in mid Dec. Id give them a call.


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## takai

Which Perlicks do you have Wolfy? The 650 i have had in the past was quite workable, but the old 5 series were a bit more temperamental. 

Ill have to get in contact with Kee when i get back on Monday.


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## Wigan

I spoke with them today flow control taps should be in on the 18th


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## fdsaasdf

Wolfman said:


> I am following this as I have perlshits and am looking for an alternative. My flow control perlshits weak like a sieve an rather than go back to brumbies I want an alternative.


Which series? No problems with 3x 650SS here...


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## takai

Keg King said:


> [SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
> [SIZE=10.5pt]If any of you wanted to do a vigorous review of the taps just let me know and I will supply some taps for you at half price on the condition that you post your review on this forum. This offer is valid for 1 month. I would prefer if the person doing the review had already used Micromatic, Perlick, or Andale taps so they have the experience to compare the difference. I think once you use the taps you will be convinced of their performance.[/SIZE]
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


Any idea of the same offer for the FC taps? I would test alongside a perlick 650 and 545.


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## droid

Topher said:


> Thanks for the half price deal Kee.
> 
> First impressions are great. Ive taken it apart to get rid of the usual smelly manufacturing oil residue and it looks well made. All the threads screw in and out nicely.
> 
> I bought the stout tap and growler filler and they look slick too. There is a 4 hole restrictor plate as well as a plastic thingy disc/restrictor underneath. Not sure if I should use both at the same time. Either way it all comes apart easily for cleaning.
> 
> Will report back after ive done some xbeerimenting.


what are peeps using for cleaning the manufacturing grease once disassembled ? just plain ol' detergent?


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## stux

Wolfman said:


> I am following this as I have perlshits and am looking for an alternative. My flow control perlshits weak like a sieve an rather than go back to brumbies I want an alternative.


My 525s are good still. I recently replaced all the o rings as a few started leaking ( oldest first), but I don't mind after four years or so of reliable service

Also converted a 575 to a 525


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## Wolfman

Can't remember what model they are.


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## Spiesy

Wolfman said:


> Can't remember what model they are.
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpeg


I have the same model. Mine are fine. I clean mine


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## Wolfman

Spiesy said:


> I have the same model. Mine are fine. I clean mine


Surely your winding me up?


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## Cocko

Its *You're*

And clearly you do not clean stuff.. AND... a simple o-ring kit will fix that... OR

Get some Intertaps...

K.



*EDIT - now that is a wind up


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## Wolfman

Cocko said:


> Its *You're*
> 
> And clearly you do not clean stuff.. AND... a simple o-ring kit will fix that... OR
> 
> Get some Intertaps...
> 
> K.
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT - now that is a wind up


Yes I do clean my taps. Thanks for the advice. 

Because you are winding me up, I'll take a oring set. Free of charge of coarse. If it works I'll pay. If your wrong I won't. You have my address.


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## zeggie

Finally reporting back. Had 2x intertaps on the kegerator for 2 months now and happy so far. Easy to take apart and clean (make sure you do this after purchase, the insides had oil everywhere when I bought them)
No leaks, Spout easy to unscrew and clean. Having only used cheapo crap plastic taps before, I got to say it's a massive step up.


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## Dazzbrew

What do you use to clean them after purchase before first use?


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## zeggie

I just did an extra long soak in sodium perc, and went at it with a bottle brush


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## Dazzbrew

Cool, thanks, im hoping santa gives me one soon.


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## paulyman

Just ordered 2 of the flow control taps and a growler filler spout, hopefully arrives in time for my christmas present to myself.


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## enoch

Ordered three of the stainless flow controls last night to replace my very tired celis.
The gold on the celis pimpled up after a few years but still functional. But it's Xmas...


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## enoch

Ordered three of the stainless flow controls last night to replace my very tired celis.
The gold on the celis pimpled up after a few years but still functional. But it's Xmas...


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## paulyman

Santa arrived a bit late, but my two flow controls just arrived. Will take apart give a good soak in PBW and then replace my existing taps.


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## enoch

Arrived and installed. Sadly also a warm fridge from the install so need to chill down to stop blowing foam!
Three in the middle - triangle, hex and cylinder. Basic but beats "the one on the left" etc.


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## Tropico

enoch said:


> Arrived and installed. Sadly also a warm fridge from the install so need to chill down to stop blowing foam!
> Three in the middle - triangle, hex and cylinder. Basic but beats "the one on the left" etc.



mate.....


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## lael

How is your beer fridge designed enoch?


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## enoch

lael said:


> How is your beer fridge designed enoch?


It's a big old three door with the taps in the top of the middle door so you have to open the door to pour.
The setup before the bling out is below from an old shot. I've got insulation on the doors now.
Can fit 5x45 litres across the bottom but 19s are are lot easier to move.
The "font" I installed today uses the front door of a ss dishwasher plus some other scrap ss from things. Aim is to minimise the cold air loss when pouring.
Handles are printed.


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## lael

Ah! I've been thinking about making one with the taps inside the door! How well does it work?


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## enoch

It is great having cold taps. The problem is the cold air that escapes every time the door is opened. 
I have put foam in the bottom of the door opening and the new font has wings that join the bit with the taps to the supports either side of the middle door. I have another piece of stainless which is going in the bottom hole to hide the foam.


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## enoch

Problem solved.
The heavy duty clean was mandatory. Grease plus a fairly chunky bit of swarf from machining.
Not sure whether the excess foaming is over/under gassing or it being 38 here ATM. 
At least coming better now versus last night.
Recycling is in - taps on the inside of a dishwasher front panel, sides are from a range hood duct and big shiny bottom is a panel from an old oven. Cold air no longer tumbles out when pouring a beer.
3D printed handles are cheesy but hey...


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## quadbox

enoch said:


> 3D printed handles are cheesy but hey...


They're cute . Did you print the thread, or have they got inserts?


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## cspencer

Homicidal Teddybear said:


> Did you print the thread, or have they got inserts?


enoch, I'd be interested also, got a 3D print myself and would love to grab an STL file.


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## quadbox

The thread if memory serves me is 5/16-16 UNC

But I'd check that before hand if I were you


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## enoch

Homicidal Teddybear said:


> The thread if memory serves me is 5/16-16 UNC
> 
> But I'd check that before hand if I were you


3/8 or about 9.5 mm is the tap thread. You need to make it a bit bigger than that to give room.

I made this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236304 rod that you subtract from the bottom of what you want to turn into a tap handle.


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## quadbox

it'd be cool to print like a few cheesy starships or something, a tardis a borg cube a leviathan... lol. Call me a nerd, (well I am) but hey


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## enoch

As a bloke with a Dalek tap handle I can't judge...


----------



## spog

enoch said:


> As a bloke with a Dalek tap handle I can't judge...


Pics please !
I grew up watching Dr Who.


----------



## enoch

Pic in post http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/87902-keg-king-intertap/?p=1342001 above. It's the black one.


----------



## cspencer

enoch said:


> 3/8 or about 9.5 mm is the tap thread. You need to make it a bit bigger than that to give room.
> 
> I made this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1236304 rod that you subtract from the bottom of what you want to turn into a tap handle.


thanks heaps


----------



## enoch

Might start a new thread (bad pun) for 3D printed tap handles. There is probably other brew gear people have printed too.


----------



## BBBF

Can anyone comment on how well the stout attachment works?


----------



## passedpawn

I'm interested in these taps. They look great.


----------



## Topher

BBBF said:


> Can anyone comment on how well the stout attachment works?


Really well. I only use co2 at the moment, but i simply carb real low, then bump pressure up heaps to pour. Noice creamy head, easy to unscrew and clean. Had an amber and a stout through it so far.


----------



## desitter

Hooked 3 new FC InterTap faucets up yesterday, and tested them today. Unfortunately I'm getting nothing but foam, regardless of the position of the FC handle. I was dispensing from the keg via a few meters of line and a picnic tap just the other day without issue, and the flow going through the lines with the FC faucets hooked up shows no sign of foam (only have a short piece from keg to shank < 1m). The beer, lines, and faucet were all at serving temp, so it's not a temperature issue. I inspected the shanks and elbow barb and I can't perceive any irregularities that might cause turbulence, and they worked fine for the Perlick 650SS I recently had replaced.

Just to be sure I tested pouring through all three shanks and with all three faucets, but have yet to get anything other than more foam. Not that it should make a difference, but I also tried dropping the pressure in the keg from around 11-12 psi to 1-2 psi, but this made no difference. When I'm pouring the beer, even on the slowest setting, I can hear and fizzing/gushing noise coming from where the faucet meets the shank, so it's likely the foaming is occurring there.

Anyone having or had similar issues, or could offer any suggestions as to what to try next?


----------



## bradsbrew

What's it like now with the picnic tap?


----------



## zeggie

desitter said:


> I inspected the shanks and elbow barb and I can't perceive any irregularities that might cause turbulence


Definitely got the washer in the right spot between the shank and tail piece?


----------



## desitter

Just hooked up the picnic tap again, pouring fine. Took off the elbow barb and the washer looks like it had been seated correctly. Hard to say though as I can't see it when it's all assembled. But I took extra care to align it correctly when tightening the nut. I had not disassembled it since using the Perlicks, which worked fine, so it's likely not the issue. Thanks for your suggestions though.


----------



## desitter

I'm not entirely sure the path beer takes while passing through these faucets, so this may be inconsequential, but I notice that the seven holes that pass from the outside to the hollow inside, and span the circumference of the restrictor (show in the image below) have been poorly machined, and still have burrs that partially obstruct the holes themselves. I'm not sure if beer is meant to flow through these holes, but if so it's likely that these burrs would provide a considerable about of turbulence.


----------



## enoch

Mine took a while to settle down but I also realised I was way over gassed. 
They did need a good clean and mine did have a chunk of swarf in one. Not as smoothly machined as either my old celis or my perlick fc.


----------



## Tropico

desitter said:


> , or could offer any suggestions as to what to try next?


put you pressure back to what you normally have.



enoch said:


> Mine took a while to settle down but I also realised I was way over gassed.
> They did need a good clean and mine did have a chunk of swarf in one. Not as smoothly machined as either my old celis or my perlick fc.


enoch is right, it will take a while to settle down and you may have to play around a little to get it perfect.


----------



## takai

My new FC Intertap is also foaming tons. Given i have multiple taps i swapped it onto the other two spots and it foams with any combo of line, post and keg. The Perlick 630 and non-FC Intertap i have don't have any issues.

Thoughts?


----------



## Blind Dog

Have you tried calling Keg King? I've called twice re problems with Keg King branded products - sorted both times quickly and easily


----------



## takai

Haven't yet. Been flat chat with other things and only picked it up yesterday. Disassembled and cleaned it before install, minimal swarf that was easily removed.


----------



## verysupple

I got my kegerator the other day and have the Intertap flow control taps, so I'm looking forward to giving it a go.

All this talk of foaming is a bit concerning, especially seeing I'm brand new to kegging so troubleshooting might be more difficult for me. Anyhoos, I was reading this thread and thought maybe these have the same problem. Maybe the taps need to be screwed really tightly to the shanks?


----------



## takai

I pulled mine down last night and soaked it overnight in Starsan. Gave it a really good scrub this morning and refitted it tonight. Popped a new keg on and somewhere in all of that it has fixed it. So it was either left over machining residue that i failed to clean the first time, a misalignment when i put it back together the first time, or perhaps it just wasnt quite seated properly.

Still get slightly more initial foam than the 630 or the plain Intertap, but thats most likely due to the extra thermal mass taking a little while to settle.


----------



## verysupple

Good to hear you've had success. The flow control ones must be pretty new, so other than this thread I haven't read anyone's experiences. I was starting to get worried. I'll let you know how mine go once I get a keg hooked up.


----------



## takai

verysupple said:


> Good to hear you've had success. The flow control ones must be pretty new, so other than this thread I haven't read anyone's experiences. I was starting to get worried. I'll let you know how mine go once I get a keg hooked up.


Yeah, they only came in stock in late Dec or so.


----------



## Dazzbrew

I bought a FC one too. Just need time to give it a thorough clean and make up the mounting board for it. Im going to mount mine inside the keg fridge.
A question on cleaning; should some keg lube be used on all the seals when putting it back together?


----------



## verysupple

Dazzbrew said:


> I bought a FC one too. Just need time to give it a thorough clean and make up the mounting board for it. Im going to mount mine inside the keg fridge.
> A question on cleaning; should some keg lube be used on all the seals when putting it back together?


Great question, I'm wondering the same thing. They don't seem to open and close very smoothly after I stripped them down and soaked everything. Although I didn't take much notice how smooth they felt straight out of the box when they still had all that greasy stuff all on the inside.


----------



## mofox1

verysupple said:


> Great question, I'm wondering the same thing. They don't seem to open and close very smoothly after I stripped them down and soaked everything. Although I didn't take much notice how smooth they felt straight out of the box when they still had all that greasy stuff all on the inside.


Could be the shuttle is upside down. There was definitely one good side and one bad side to all four of mine.

I needed to clean up the edges of the hole drilled through the centre as they were a bit ragged and the tap post(?) bit didn't sit in nicely.

All good now, fit either way round. Bit of lube as well and everything is dandy.

Note: These were the non-fc ones, but I imagine the fc's probably have similar machining issues.


----------



## verysupple

Well, my fears were unfounded. I've just poured my first two pints from one of my FCs and everything seems fine. The first one I was a bit scared of foaming so I didn't turn the flow up very high, but the second one I had almost fully open. I'm not serving at a particularly high pressure, though (90 kPa at 6 degrees). Also, the taps feel a bit better now they've had some beer through them. So myabe I won't bother lubing the inner workings.


----------



## Bribie G

I've just ordered two Intertap plain non-FC taps to replace the old chrome plated brass micromatics that came with my font back in the last decade and have been foaming and sticking (see the Don't Use Perc thread) :blink:

Is it advisable to take them apart and clean after every keg and, if so, what parts if any need to be lubed with my amazing wee black tube of keg lube I bought in 2010 that will definitely see me out in my pine box or recycled cremation carton?


----------



## Bribie G

Just got my Intertaps from National Home Brew HBHB today and fitted them, they didn't have any greasy gunge in them, so just a quick rinse and they were serving immediately.

These seem to be the go, a good cylinder of clear beer into the glass, not like the Micromatics where I was usually getting a "hollow" air-filled cylinder of beer coming out that immediately foamed up on hitting the contents of the glass.

Seal perfectly.


----------



## fraser_john

*Different designs?*
Well we got 8 of the Intertaps, non flow control model for the Geelong Craft Brewers portable bar and I was stripping them down to give them a good clean and noted one was a totally different design on the inside.....

Only one of the 8 was like this!

Any one else seen design differences?


----------



## pist

Are these compatible with snaplok adapters? Would not mind getting one of these if i can fit it to a snaplok adapter


----------



## MastersBrewery

pist said:


> Are these compatible with snaplok adapters? Would not mind getting one of these if i can fit it to a snaplok adapter


They have a standard tap thread so yes a snaplock adaptor will fit. Note KK are releasing their own qick release pannel adapter soonish.


----------



## pist

I hope it will be better than their jg fitting knock offs


----------



## verysupple

fraser_john said:


> *Different designs?*
> Well we got 8 of the Intertaps, non flow control model for the Geelong Craft Brewers portable bar and I was stripping them down to give them a good clean and noted one was a totally different design on the inside.....
> 
> Only one of the 8 was like this!
> 
> Any one else seen design differences?
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20160213_153416.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20160213_153509.jpg


Mine are the FC ones but look like the version on the right. Odd that only one of the eight is different.


----------



## mofox1

Having a touch of trouble with these units.

The self closing spring just doesn't cut it. It needs to be stiffer, and (oh dear), longer. When I first got them the springs were compressed too far and barely reached the shuttle, let alone push it forward.

So I've stretched them out and they seem to be okay, although I had to take a tap off y'day to stretch the spring again. Not sure if I didn't stretch it enough to begin with, or if it's being deformed back to original shape.

That and the fact that the some of the shuttles were a bit rough to begin with and needed a bit of drill/file TLC... some breaking in issues. Will be interesting to see if it's smooth sailing from here.


----------



## schtev

mofox1 said:


> The self closing spring just doesn't cut it.


I've found the exact same thing. Unless I have the little collar that screws on to the handle not attached, the spring doesn't really do anything. It's only a $2 spring so I'm not too fussed, but it's pretty crappy that it doesn't work as advertised. 

My tap also has a few rough bits inside the elbow. I've tried filing them down but it's hard to get a file in there. Certainly not up to the standard of my Perlick 630SS. It doesn't seem to matter too much because I can still get a nice pour, but I worry about crud getting trapped there and bacteria growing. 

Has anyone had any luck smoothing down the tap interior?


----------



## fraser_john

schtev said:


> I've found the exact same thing. Unless I have the little collar that screws on to the handle not attached, the spring doesn't really do anything. It's only a $2 spring so I'm not too fussed, but it's pretty crappy that it doesn't work as advertised.
> 
> My tap also has a few rough bits inside the elbow. I've tried filing them down but it's hard to get a file in there. Certainly not up to the standard of my Perlick 630SS. It doesn't seem to matter too much because I can still get a nice pour, but I worry about crud getting trapped there and bacteria growing.
> 
> Has anyone had any luck smoothing down the tap interior?


I noted this too, you would need a high speed die grinder to get in there. I might do it with my dremmel if I can be bothered, but, just use a spray bottle with star san in it after a nights pouring and it will be fine.


----------



## Keg King

Hi everyone.

We have done testing smoothing out the elbow on the tap and it simply doesn’t make any difference to the pour and from our testing it does not affect “crud getting caught”. A simple clean with any beer line cleaner will keep the elbow it top condition. Also if you got in there with a high speed grinder there is a risk that you will damage the seat where the o-ring seals so I would not recommend it and it’s simply not necessary.

With regards to the tap spring we use a fairly soft tap Spring that requires approximately 9.5 newton force to overcome the spring tension.

The following three paragraphs will reference this drawing below:
http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Intertap%208022.pdf

Springs that apply more force are easy to fit however as you increase the spring force the tap becomes more unpleasant to use as it will require more force to open the tap and a soft touch tap is preferable. If the tap is lubricated correctly and the correct seal compression in seals 6 and 7 is applied then the 9.5 newton force should be sufficient to close the tap automatically.

As mentioned in the youtube video here () this will show you to how to adjust the tension of part 3 in the link above. If the part 3 is done up too tight then the spring may not actuate the tap so it’s important that if you use the spring then part 3 is adjusted accordingly.

So all you need to remember is adjust part 3 and also lubricate parts 6 and 7. If for some reason you want a stiffer spring and if we get enough requests for a stiffer spring then we are happy to make stiffer springs however the 9.5 newton spring should be more than enough for you guys if the tap is setup correctly. From our perspective the only reason a stiffer spring should be require is if customers are using large and/or heavy tap handles. Oversized tap handles may require more spring force.

...................................................................

I personally do not use the springs, this way you can be pouring a beer with one hand and drinking another beer with the other!


----------



## earle

Keg King said:


> I personally do not use the springs, this way you can be pouring a beer with one hand and drinking another beer with the other!


----------



## fraser_john

earle said:


>


ah frinkiac

<edit fix my bad spellin>


----------



## Bribie G

After using these taps for a few weeks, I'm very impressed.

At first I was getting a bit of foaming under certain conditions, mostly by trying to run them on the same pressure as my old Micromatics. The problem there was that if I ran the Micromatics on less than 70 kPa they wouldn't pour a solid "cylinder" of beer, just a hollow one if you can picture that, that promptly frothed as it came out and dropped to the glass. Running at up to 90 kPa would give me a solid cylinder of beer that would usually do the trick, but more often than not break into foam because the pressure was just too high.

Initially the beer in the original kegs when I switched the taps over was carbed to that degree, so it was also frothing with the Intertaps, for a while.

Now I've stabilised the carbonation by going to a "sweet spot" on my system, that's bang on 50 kPa and gives me a perfect pour. Took a bit of monitoring and trial and error but I've got it nailed.

With the old micromatics I used to approach the tap with apprehension, whether it was going to be jammed shut with baked on crud around the exposed end of the slide, or whether I was going to get a glass of foam.

With the Intertaps, no such problem. Every pour is a good pour.

Very pleased indeed, recommended.

Ed: thanks to HBHB at National Home Brew. He offered to exchange if I had any problems.... no worries. :beerbang:


----------



## schtev

I've been using my Intertap non-FC stainless model for about a month. I think it's a reasonably good tap for the price. It certainly isn't up to the fit and finish of a Perlick tap, but at half the price it does well.

The lever mechanism doesn't feel as "nice" as my Perlicks. I like it more since taking the auto-close spring out though.

I've found that the Intertap has a tendency to get a few ml of beer stuck in the nozzle after closing, that usually splashes into the drip tray a few minutes after pouring or if encouraged to come out with a prod of the tap opening. Bit annoying but not a big deal.

Overall I think they're a great tap if you're on a budget, but I'll be sticking with Perlick for now.


----------



## Bribie G

Haven't had the drip problem, maybe something to do with your spring removal? Agree the lever action isn't really smooth, but still miles ahead of the similarly priced Micromatic taps.


----------



## peaky

I've been using my Intertap non-FC taps for a few months now. I only get one or two small drips immediately upon closing the tap at the end of a pour. Overall, I'm happy.


----------



## verysupple

Yeah, as the above two posts, I only get 1 or 2 small drips right after pouring (within a few seconds of closing the tap). Mine are flow controls although I can't see how that would make a difference as the only differences are before the sealing mechanism, not after.


:icon_offtopic:

On another note, the only problem I have doesn't really have anything to do with the taps per se. My font stays nice and frosty (condensation on the out side at least) but the taps seem to get warm, making the beer froth for the first few seconds of pouring until everything cools down. If I pour more beers right after the first everything is fine, convincing me it's the temperature causing it. Anyone know of a solution, or thread detailing a solution, that doesn't involve a flooded font?

EDIT: Actually, I don't see how a flooded font would help either. Any suggestions?


----------



## takai

verysupple said:


> On another note, the only problem I have doesn't really have anything to do with the taps per se. My font stays nice and frosty (condensation on the out side at least) but the taps seem to get warm, making the beer froth for the first few seconds of pouring until everything cools down. If I pour more beers right after the first everything is fine, convincing me it's the temperature causing it. Anyone know of a solution, or thread detailing a solution, that doesn't involve a flooded font?
> 
> EDIT: Actually, I don't see how a flooded font would help either. Any suggestions?


Its more of an issue of surface area. The taps have a large surface area that is not directly chilled. The only way to keep them cold will be to jacket them or to have a frozen font and therefore a cold tap.


----------



## verysupple

Yeah, makes sense. It's not like I'm really wasting any beer. I just pour the first bit in to a glass and set aside, then pour my actual beer. By the time I'm done drinking the actual beer the foamy glass has settled and I drink that too.  It's a little warm and slightly flat by then, but schmeh.


----------



## CoxR

I ordered 3 and received 1 stainless steel FC tap after a few months, I finally got around to cleaning it and fitting it up but it semms to drop a little from the spout and also leaks up through the top bonnet. I have the printed parts diagram and all seems ok. Is the a mother place I can find an exploded view or video?
Thanks guys.


----------



## verysupple

This is just a bit of an update on my experience with these taps.

I got a "stout spout" with mine but I haven't got a beer gas / N2 setup. I figured I'd give the spout a try on a best bitter anyway to see if I could get a nice big creamy head on a lowish carbonated beer. So I carbonated and served at 80 kPa at 8 C which is a bit higher than I usually would for this style with the idea that the stout spout would knock a bit of CO2 out. Well it works a treat. A nice creamy head and about the right fizziness, although it's a bit of a slow pour even with the FC fully open because of the extra restriction. The result is pretty good so I'm not sure I'll bother getting a N2 setup in the future, which was my original plan. I'll have to try it on a dry stout before I really decide, though.





Side note: this is Bribie G's Yorkshire Bitter 2016 AHB recipe which is tasty as.


----------



## verysupple

CoxR said:


> I ordered 3 and received 1 stainless steel FC tap after a few months, I finally got around to cleaning it and fitting it up but it semms to drop a little from the spout and also leaks up through the top bonnet. I have the printed parts diagram and all seems ok. Is the a mother place I can find an exploded view or video?
> Thanks guys.


After I cleaned one of mine between kegs it was leaking, I think, from the same place - from the tensioner. I had to tighten it up a fair bit before it stopped leaking and I thought, "Oh no, the tap is gonna be awful to open and close". But it isn't, it feels good. So maybe you just need to tighten it up a bit. I guess you should also make sure all the seals in that area are seated nicely and sealing properly too.


----------



## peteru

I've been using the Intertaps for almost two weeks now and must say I really like the Stout Spout. I've used it to pour a porter and the results are pretty spectacular. I get lovely creamy pour, reminiscent of Guinness, including the stratification and settling of the beer. At the end I get a nice firm velvety head. A result that is much better than I expected with just plain CO2.

Has anyone had an opportunity to test the English Sparkler Spout? How does it differ from the Stout Spout?

Kee/Dan - if you are still following this thread, I'd be happy to give the English Sparkler Spout a try and review it for everyone else.


----------



## verysupple

Yeah, I've been keen to try the sparkler too. Although they're mentioned on the Intertap site, I can't find them on any retailer's website, so I'm not sure they're actually available.

Anyone heard any word on when they might be available?


----------



## peteru

I tried to order one about a month ago, but it got taken off my purchase order because it was not available. I'm hoping that a month later we might be closer to having some availability, even if it's just a few review units.


----------



## CoxR

verysupple said:


> After I cleaned one of mine between kegs it was leaking, I think, from the same place - from the tensioner. I had to tighten it up a fair bit before it stopped leaking and I thought, "Oh no, the tap is gonna be awful to open and close". But it isn't, it feels good. So maybe you just need to tighten it up a bit. I guess you should also make sure all the seals in that area are seated nicely and sealing properly too.


I did get it to seal and yes it needed to be tightened far more than I expected. After running it for a few weeks I would say it is better than the average tap. However the simplicity of my Pearls and smoothness of of operation is not matched by the Intertap.


----------



## peteru

I have three Intertaps. One is very smooth, one is "normal" and one was grinding and now just a bit rough.

The one that was grinding had a metal shaving stuck in it. I think it may have been from cutting the thread. Once I have removed it, the action improved, but the tap still feels like there's some stand or something rough stuck in there.

The tap that is working nice and smooth was actually very similar to the one that now runs rough originally. I took it apart before installing it and found that flipping the shuttle upside down has improved the smoothness of the action tremendously.

As I empty the kegs in the next few weeks, I'll take each tap off and will inspect internals closely. I might pull out some 600 or 1,000 grit paper and polish some of the accessible contact surfaces if it looks like they are the cause of the "sticktion".


----------



## lost at sea

anyone else have any imput/2cents on these KK intertaps? im beginning to gear up for a promotion to kegger and am keen to hear some more reviews!!!


also.....flow control or not? (on any tap brand) do you find it vital to pouring? or not really necessary?

cheeeers


----------



## CoxR

I like the flow control not only for the control but when I am finished a session I turn them down so if anything happens to bump the tap nothing comes out.
As for the KK tap I will be sticking with my Perliks. The Intertap is used for Soda water.


----------



## peteru

Over the last month I had the opportunity to put all three Intertaps through their paces and take them apart to clean between kegs.

I found that towards the end of each keg, all three Intertaps became harder to operate, giving a grinding and sticky performance. I have the automatic return springs installed and even when I loosened the collar a fair bit, the taps would not close without being given a nudge.

As an experiment, I used 600 grit wet and dry sandpaper to polish the flat surfaces on the pin that sits inside the shuttle. These were machined quite roughly. I also used some tap grease to lubricate pretty much all surfaces that have any friction. The action is smoother than before, but we'll see how well it performs a few weeks later, once I get towards the end of the keg again.


----------



## lost at sea

okay so i did a rare venture into my LHBS in newy today and surprisingly they had both 650 perlicks and intertaps both SS and FC in stock. i immediately notice the smoothness in the feel of the handle/valve action of the perlicks over the intertaps. VERY noticeable feel. intertaps just feel rougher/harsher? 

basically the only benifit i can see just from holding the intertap (not pouring from them) is the changeable spout....so i think ill be spending the bones on the perlicks.


----------



## Moad

lost at sea said:


> okay so i did a rare venture into my LHBS in newy today and surprisingly they had both 650 perlicks and intertaps both SS and FC in stock. i immediately notice the smoothness in the feel of the handle/valve action of the perlicks over the intertaps. VERY noticeable feel. intertaps just feel rougher/harsher?
> 
> basically the only benifit i can see just from holding the intertap (not pouring from them) is the changeable spout....so i think ill be spending the bones on the perlicks.



+1

First thing I noticed on the intertap was the grinding sensation.


----------



## lost at sea

geez i just noticed craftbrewer have the FC celli's are reduced from $215 down to $155.....

anyone know if they fit onto a KK font?


----------



## lost at sea

Moad said:


> +1
> 
> First thing I noticed on the intertap was the grinding sensation.


also the 650SS was only $85 at the LHBS, does that seem right? or a bit cheap? i see them for $100+ online


----------



## Moad

Good price I think mate, that with a shank? Make sure you are comparing the same thing!


----------



## lost at sea

Moad said:


> Good price I think mate, that with a shank? Make sure you are comparing the same thing!


well online they say no shank or handle (650SS) and in the LHBS is was fully assembled with shank ect and said $85 hmmmm


----------



## TidalPete

Have watched this thread with much interest since the first post, my only comment is that "you get what you pay for".


This is *not* an anti-Keg King post but I can't admit to seeing anything positive about their taps that would persuade me not to look for a better alternative elsewhere when only a few extra dollars extra expense would make a big difference.

I've used Perlicks (not flow control) with my (past) 9-keg\4 x tap keezer before downgrading to a 3 x tap kegerator & moving onwards & upwards towards better tap hardware.

IMHO I would absolutely recommend Perlicks of whatever persuasion (but specifically the latest* SS *flow-control models) to any interested brewers.
Of course, there are better tap options out there besides the above KK & Perlicks depending on your budget keenness for bling easier tap maintenance. B)

Happy brewing & just my 2 cents.


----------



## Moad

lost at sea said:


> well online they say no shank or handle (650SS) and in the LHBS is was fully assembled with shank ect and said $85 hmmmm


just check with the LHBS. A mate picked some FC perlicks up cheap from Kirk in Hamilton recently. He might have got a big order of them in.

Anyway, we are OT!


----------



## Frothy1

Anyone used the FC intertap for soda water?

I was hoping to restrict the pressure of the higher carbonated water but think even a brumby gets it to the glass with more carbonation.

To me, the soda water poured from the FC intertap tasted flatter than the same keg of soda water poured from the old brumby tap.


----------



## CoxR

Soda water is all I use my Intertap FC for now. Work well with no issues


----------



## Frothy1

I've given the keg a bit of pressure overnight and played around with it a bit this morning.

It's set at about 1/4 open and it seems to have done the trick.

Intertap is my friend again.


----------



## ChefKing

Hi All,

I am having a couple of issues with my SS intertaps. I have a 3 head font on a series 4 KK kegerator.

2 taps seem to leak, one is so bad that I do not run anything through it anymore...

The leak comes from the little screw on the handle that connects the handle to the tap.... hard to explain. 

I have tightened it right up, still leaks... Loosened it, still leaks.... Whatever I do to it the damn thing still leaks!

Also when I pull it on or off... I can actually feel it grinding a bit internally...

Very frustrating seeing I paid so much for the entire system.

Anyhow here is the vid I sent Keg King, perhaps someone might of had experience with a similar issue and could offer me some advice...

Links:

https://vimeo.com/170787613

https://vimeo.com/170787169


----------



## mofox1

Check the shuttle for burrs. They are not the best machined parts.

Also strip it down, clean, and apply keg lube to all seals, and especially all parts of the "ball" part where the handle connects to the tap. Ensure when put back together, the plastic bits that house the "ball" part of the handle are properly pushed down into the tap assembly.

Are you using the self closing springs? If so, I've found they are not stiff enough to close the tap without it leaking thru the tap/handle nut. You need to stretch them a bit.


----------



## peteru

That's pretty bad. Bad enough that I would suspect that it has not been assembled properly or has some serious manufacturing fault.

Having said that, the three Intertaps I have here are not without a fault. I have one that has started seeping a tiny bit in exactly the same location only after emptying three kegs through it. A second one seeps even more after two kegs, but it's not a running leak. Whenever I change kegs, I disassemble the tap, soak all parts in sodium percarbonate solution for about 10 minutes, rinse, lubricate with Lubrifilm Plus, spray with Keg King sanitiser and reassemble. I also use the tap auto-close springs and adjust the tension on the tap head such that resistance is just enough to make the self-closing work. That has resulted in seeping beer at the top of the tap. Nowhere near as bad as your leak, but bad enough to cause a build-up of sticky residue and a tap that is hard to operate - that is a problem, because the selling point of the Intertap is that it should stop sticky taps. It certainly fails to deliver on that promise in the setup I have.

I'll take the advice from mofox1 on board and will see if the self-closing springs are the source of the problem. It could be that them being too weak results in insufficient pressure on the valve shaft, which in turn causes seepage.

I might also give Keg King a ring to see if they have any ideas. On the one occasion I had to contact them previously, they were very helpful.


----------



## Reman

From that video I would suspect that the olive that sits on the lever before that nut goes on is missing or cracked. If you take the tap out, take the handle off, undo the nut that you are tightening, you should see a white plastic ring, that is the olive. If that is missing or cracked then the beer will seep through. Or the washer beneath that.

See part 7 or 9
http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Intertap%208022.pdf


----------



## ChefKing

Reman said:


> From that video I would suspect that the olive that sits on the lever before that nut goes on is missing or cracked. If you take the tap out, take the handle off, undo the nut that you are tightening, you should see a white plastic ring, that is the olive. If that is missing or cracked then the beer will seep through. Or the washer beneath that.
> 
> See part 7 or 9
> http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Intertap%208022.pdf


KK Reply....

Thank you for providing the videos, clearly outlining the issue you're currently having.

The SS Intertaps have a series of o-rings and washers in them, one of which is a washer located under the bonnet of the tap where the leak you're experiencing is occurring. 

Part 9 in the diagram shown.

http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Intertap%208022.pdf

The quickest fix is to replace this washer with a slightly thicker one. I will send out 3 of these to you in an envelope which you will be able to replace the original washers with. To replace it is simply unscrewing the top bonnet, taking out the black washer currently located inside, and fitting it with the new ones I will have sent.

Regards,

Very good call Reman!


----------



## mofox1

peteru said:


> I'll take the advice from mofox1 on board and will see if the self-closing springs are the source of the problem. It could be that them being too weak results in insufficient pressure on the valve shaft, which in turn causes seepage.


I get a very solid "cah-THUNK" when I let the tap handle go now. Very satisfying, and I can have the handle assembly nut done up quite tight with no leakage issues.

That said - if you remove the spring and tighten it up enough it should work as a manual close without leaking either.


----------



## skatz

Hey gang

I have three FC faucets and two leak from the bonnet. There is a thread in HBT discussing a retrofit, but I feel a new product shouldn't require a fix to function.

I emailed Keg King and they put the blame on the top washer below the bonnet. Washer looks good when disassembled.

This is pretty irritating.


EDIT - I disassembled all three and one has a washer that is much stiffer than the other two. I can't say if that washer was in the leak free faucet, as I disassembled and dropped all of the parts into cleaner as I went. I suspect that it is from the leak free faucet as the lever action feels about the same as the one good faucet.


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## rossbaker

I just put 5 of the basic brass ones into my keezer. So far all leak proof and no issues. Thinking of spring loading them (no springs currently) as I am finding it really easy to knock and open the taps unintentionally. The keezer is in a fairly high traffic area. Anyone recommend this or experienced other troubles when doing so?


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## klangers

I have a couple KK intertaps and I love them.

I personally like the more industrial feel - I think they feel more "authoritative" when they close with a definite clunk. Sounds secure. 

I also have a perlick - and that's great too. I enjoy having a variety of taps.

I think many of the leaking issues are exacerbated by the fact that people feel they should clean the tap after every keg. That's overkill IMO, and accelerates the wear of all the parts which may cause leaking.

I CIP my taps with a gentle solution of no-rinse. Disassembly should not be a regular occurence.


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## peteru

The only reason I disassembled mine was because of the gunk at the top as a result of seepage. If the new thicker washers fix the problem, then disassembly will be less regular. However, you still need to take the taps apart every now and then to lubricate them and do more thorough cleaning. A few times a year should be enough.


----------



## rossbaker

ChefKing said:


> KK Reply....
> 
> Thank you for providing the videos, clearly outlining the issue you're currently having.
> 
> The SS Intertaps have a series of o-rings and washers in them, one of which is a washer located under the bonnet of the tap where the leak you're experiencing is occurring.
> 
> Part 9 in the diagram shown.
> 
> http://www.intertap.beer/Downloads/Intertap%208022.pdf
> 
> The quickest fix is to replace this washer with a slightly thicker one. I will send out 3 of these to you in an envelope which you will be able to replace the original washers with. To replace it is simply unscrewing the top bonnet, taking out the black washer currently located inside, and fitting it with the new ones I will have sent.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Very good call Reman!


Did the new o-ring fix this for you Chef King? One of mine has sprung the same leak you have described after its first clean. After the line cleaner (napisan) sat in the lines/tap overnight, I ran through some soda water that was sitting at about 40 psi and the leak started after this when it was reconnected to beer. Could that amount of pressure have caused a problem? I still haven't gotten around to pulling apart tap and looking inside.


----------



## ChefKing

rossbaker said:


> Did the new o-ring fix this for you Chef King? One of mine has sprung the same leak you have described after its first clean. After the line cleaner (napisan) sat in the lines/tap overnight, I ran through some soda water that was sitting at about 40 psi and the leak started after this when it was reconnected to beer. Could that amount of pressure have caused a problem? I still haven't gotten around to pulling apart tap and looking inside.


Yes, fixed it. Though it is quite tricky trying to get the new washer to fit, but once in.

It solves the problem!


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## rossbaker

Update: pulling apart and lubricating the said o-ring seems to have fixed the leak but I think I will still hit keg King up for some of those thicker ones.


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## mofox1

Yeh, do that. My original ones worked for a bit possibly a keg or two after re-lubing, but the leaks always came back.

Been about 6 weeks and multiple kegs thru with the thicker washers.. and no more leaks.


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## SBOB

Moad said:


> just check with the LHBS. A mate picked some FC perlicks up cheap from Kirk in Hamilton recently. He might have got a big order of them in.
> 
> Anyway, we are OT!


were they stainless or chromed?
He has a $95 set on the website, but for that price it would need be be chrome


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## Rocker1986

I got my stainless Perlick FC taps for about $90 each from memory.


----------



## Meddo

Happy owner of six SS FCs here. Bought two batches of three taps about three months apart - the second set had the leaks that have been described here but that was sorted out with replacement bonnet washers from KK.


----------



## SBOB

Ended up with two ss intertaps for the new fridge. ($75 for ss taps, long shanks, handle and spring from Newcastle homebrew shop for reference) 

No leaks on first setup. 

For those that did have leaks and got replacement washers, was it any different from the same diameter slightly thicker washer that the keg king shanks come with? When pulling mine apart for cleaning I noticed that both the taps handle washer and the shanks incoming tube washer were the same size, just thinner on the intertap


----------



## Aus_Rider_22

About to purchase a KK series 4. Have decided to go with the Intertap 3 font setup. I am tossing up between regular SS and the SS flow-control. I am leaning towards FC just to simplify things and be able to change the pour flow on the fly.

Also, anyone have experience with the intertap stout tap/aerator. Is it worth buying if I don't have nitro? Thanks for any and all opinions!


----------



## verysupple

Aus_Rider_22 said:


> About to purchase a KK series 4. Have decided to go with the Intertap 3 font setup. I am tossing up between regular SS and the SS flow-control. I am leaning towards FC just to simplify things and be able to change the pour flow on the fly.
> 
> Also, anyone have experience with the intertap stout tap/aerator. Is it worth buying if I don't have nitro? Thanks for any and all opinions!


I have the stout spout on a plane Jane CO2 system. It works quite well. See this post from earlier in this thread.


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## Reman

I like the FC so that the first glass you pour isnt all foam while you wait for everything to cool down.


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## Coldspace

I'll second the stout pourer , I've used it with my kk flow control inter tap , I run my stouts and reds thru it, having the flow control I'll can crank up the co2 pressure to about 18 psi and then restrict it at the flow control and get a a real genuine creamy pour that's a genuine glass of micro bubbles that cascade up and form lovely creamy head. About 90% as good as a nitro pour at a pub. I'm more than happy with it.


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## peteru

I have no experience with the flow control taps, but the stout spout is great. Definitely a worthwhile addition.


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## taztiger

Coldspace said:


> I'll second the stout pourer , I've used it with my kk flow control inter tap , I run my stouts and reds thru it, having the flow control I'll can crank up the co2 pressure to about 18 psi and then restrict it at the flow control and get a a real genuine creamy pour that's a genuine glass of micro bubbles that cascade up and form lovely creamy head. About 90% as good as a nitro pour at a pub. I'm more than happy with it.


Do you carb at normal pressure say 70Kpa and then turn it up to your higher pressure for the pour? I'm just building a new kegerator and am going to use a separate cylinder for the stout tap.


----------



## Coldspace

taztiger said:


> Do you carb at normal pressure say 70Kpa and then turn it up to your higher pressure for the pour? I'm just building a new kegerator and am going to use a separate cylinder for the stout tap.


I carb my reds and stouts to about 18-19 psi on the force carb method ,this gives me about 70% carb of say my ales or lagers. Which is right for me.
I then pour at about 18 psi due to the stout tap. I find this is great mix of carb, and pour rate to give max effect on these beers. You may have to dial your set up in. But don't go past 65-70% max carb of your other beer styles .

Just make sure after a session you either turn gas off at keg or disconnect it if running other styles otherwise the carb level will creep up to say ale level then you will have over carb red or stout.

Cheers


----------



## taztiger

Coldspace said:


> I carb my reds and stouts to about 18-19 psi on the force carb method ,this gives me about 70% carb of say my ales or lagers. Which is right for me.
> I then pour at about 18 psi due to the stout tap. I find this is great mix of carb, and pour rate to give max effect on these beers. You may have to dial your set up in. But don't go past 65-70% max carb of your other beer styles .
> Just make sure after a session you either turn gas off at keg or disconnect it if running other styles otherwise the carb level will creep up to say ale level then you will have over carb red or stout.
> Cheers


Thanks mate, I will give that a try. I'm going to run that tap separate to my other 3 taps on my new kegerator so should be all good.


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## damoninja

I have a pair of the standard SS taps, I reckon they're pretty damn good value for money, especially coupled with the stout nozzle and others you can get. 

I had an issue with the washers too, I have my bonnets relatively tight as I've got fairly long handles but didn't realise there were issues with them or whatever, is this a defect and KK replace for free or just something that's worn over time?


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## nosco

Very happy with my Intertap with stout spout so far. Just a regular ss tap with ss shank. Kegged an English bitter last night. Left it on 30 psi for about 6 hours then left it. Poured the first one today at the usual 12 psi. No nitro effect but a nice creamy head on it. Very tastey. The head didnt last very long but it didnt go flat. Lovely lacing. It was carbonated but just needs a bit more time.

Tried serving it at high pressure as id read on here. Hooked it up to my 30 psi carbing line (too high maybe) and hey presto a beautiful nitro effect with a prefect 3/4" creamy head on it. The head did last this time.Its sitting on 8 psi to settle atm as i dont have any other kegs going. I pitched a chocolate stout with the same 1968 yeast. Cant wait to try it. Im going to get another Intertap with the stout spout asap.


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## quadbox

I bought an FC one to add to my keezer as a trial with the hbs credit I got from santa. Have pulled it apart and given it a good clean and lube, will be interested to see how they go. The build quality is a lot better than most of the taps I've used commercially. 

If it works well over six months or so I might replace some of the crappier taps on there atm with a couple more


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## Bougie!st

Hi guys

I hope I am in the right spot. I just bought a new KK FC Intertap for my kegging setup and can't get a decent pour on it (normal front spout). My setup and the beer:

1. Wheat beer naturally carbed to 3.5 vols. Attached to regulator with 18psi (naturally) - held there
2. 4mm ID line from KK
3. Initially put in 4m line with JG straight connector to last 60cm (which is attached to tap) - I've been doing this successfully with my old taps - allows me to sub in lines to balance the system
4. Fridge temp is set at -4 deg, measures 2 deg at bottom front next to wheat beer keg
5. New shank for tap as well
6. Nothing but foam from pour, no matter where I adjust the FC to (even on the dribble setting)

Things I have done to adjust
1. added another 5m of 4mm ID line with another connector (so 9 m of 4mm ID line, plus FC tap) - I'd have thought this would fix it, but no. All other changes done with 9m of line (it's definitely all marked as 4mm ID line)
2. bled top pressure to push beer out with only 10 psi (but would have had the same vols of CO2 in the actual beer)
3. I am currently bleeding CO2 out of the beer (intermittent manually opening relief valve) - have it to 12 psi on the regulator and holding - no change (ie it seems to have equilibrated). Goal is to make sure it is carbed at the correct pressure for 2 deg (3 volumes is 15 psi according to BS2 and online charts), not -4 deg.
4. pulled apart and cleaned entire system of lines/connectors/shank/FC tap, etc
5. ensured the line (which is taped into a loop) is sitting at the bottom of the kegerator to keep it cold before it goes up to the tap
6. made sure tap has become cold with beer running through it
7. thrown out a lot of beer in the form of foam

I really enjoy the bubbles in a good wheat beer, and love this style, so want to have it on tap, not just in bottles. I don't want to have it flat (for a wheat). The reason I bought the FC tap was to enable me to achieve this greater carbonation with a balanced system.

I have two other kegs attached to normal taps (MJ kegerator - I removed the tap springs), with 3m 4mm ID line, connected to a small length coming from the tap with a JG straight connector, and sitting at 12-14 psi. Both of these pour perfectly fine (one pilsner, other APA). By rights, the amount of 4mm ID line I need should be less than this, but I actually have no issue with the amount of line, so long as the system is balanced and it fits in the fridge. I don't have a font fan, but have no issue with the initial bit of foam from a warm tap - it's usually not even enough to throw out with these other beers.

Any other ideas? 

When I try to pull a beer, you can hear the turbulence in it as it comes through the tap. The sound comes from the back of the tap, just after the connection to the shank and before the handle, and it's there no matter what position the FC is in. 

The guys at KK have been great with any other issues I've had - good customer service - but they are on holidays at the moment, so I haven't contacted them as yet.

Thanks in advance. Sorry for the long post - I was trying to save space by using point form


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## claypot

Have you tried pouring the wheat beer through one of the other taps?
How does it compare?
You mentioned you pulled the tap down and cleaned. Did you strip it right down, I've heard of people getting machining swarf inside on occasion.


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## peteru

If you can, try with with a minimal length of 4mm tubing. You don't need all that beer line to balance the system, since you have an FC tap. It's just a place where CO2 can come out of solution and turn into foam.

The noises you hear are probably the bubbles that are already in the line travelling through the shank/tap connector cavity. I suspect that if you look at the beer line, you will see that the bubbles / foam are already forming before the beer makes it as far as the font.


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## Bougie!st

claypot said:


> Have you tried pouring the wheat beer through one of the other taps?
> How does it compare?
> You mentioned you pulled the tap down and cleaned. Did you strip it right down, I've heard of people getting machining swarf inside on occasion.


Thanks, mate. That was on my list of things to do, but was pulling my hair out and wanted to ask other ideas. I was about to, then saw peteru's post...
I did strip the tap right down, and it looked clean, but I did another proper clean just in case my vision is failing me



peteru said:


> If you can, try with with a minimal length of 4mm tubing. You don't need all that beer line to balance the system, since you have an FC tap. It's just a place where CO2 can come out of solution and turn into foam.


So, I went and had another look, and you are right. There was a lot of bubbles coming out of the beer in there. It may be because the pressure was inadequate (as I had turned it down), but I took your advice and shortened it to 2m. I actually then got a decent pour out of it. The beer was a bit flat for a wheat, but this might have solved the issue. No gas bubbles in there this morning. Have turned the pressure back up and I guess will see what happens when the beer carbs up a bit more. 

Thanks for the help! :beer:


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## JDW81

I reckon the trick with the flow control taps (I run 4 Perlick FCs) is having a short (about 1m), single piece of beer line for each tap with no connecters other than the necessary ones. Gives you less places to cause turbulent flow and knock the CO2 out of solution. Means your flow restrictors in the back of the tap do all the work.

JD


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## Ferg

An interesting back story and very positive review of the taps:

http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/12/intertap-forward-sealing-faucets-product-review/#more-81661


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## claypot

Ferg said:


> An interesting back story and very positive review of the taps:
> 
> http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/12/intertap-forward-sealing-faucets-product-review/#more-81661


Cheers for that. Your rite that's a good read, I'd read on other US forums about the striking similarities between intertap and Vent-matic. The vent-matic taps were said to be one of the best around in the US. Seems like the dude sold out the plans to intertap and is now busy trying to spend the cash!

That article has sold me on the intertaps now.


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## damoninja

Terrific value for money these taps are, never gum up and always have smooth action. The interchangeable spouts is just great too for various reasons. The only one I didn't get was the ball lock one, personally would never use it.


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## clickeral

Have two of these sitting on my desk at work right now (SS FC ones) will be installing tonight alongside my Perlic 650SS and will see how they go this weekend 

Seem pretty solid, only issue I have is that the brush bungs I have brought don't seem to fit these or the perlics

Might post some feedback once I give them a good bit of use


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## quadbox

I've been quite happy with mine (ss fc). They arent as good as an andale da/floryte, but they're a bare fraction of the price and seem to perform very well.


----------



## moonhead

Bougie!st said:


> Thanks, mate. That was on my list of things to do, but was pulling my hair out and wanted to ask other ideas. I was about to, then saw peteru's post...
> I did strip the tap right down, and it looked clean, but I did another proper clean just in case my vision is failing me
> 
> 
> So, I went and had another look, and you are right. There was a lot of bubbles coming out of the beer in there. It may be because the pressure was inadequate (as I had turned it down), but I took your advice and shortened it to 2m. I actually then got a decent pour out of it. The beer was a bit flat for a wheat, but this might have solved the issue. No gas bubbles in there this morning. Have turned the pressure back up and I guess will see what happens when the beer carbs up a bit more.
> 
> Thanks for the help! :beer:





JDW81 said:


> I reckon the trick with the flow control taps (I run 4 Perlick FCs) is having a short (about 1m), single piece of beer line for each tap with no connecters other than the necessary ones. Gives you less places to cause turbulent flow and knock the CO2 out of solution. Means your flow restrictors in the back of the tap do all the work.
> 
> JD


Any further feedback on shorter tube lengths with the FC taps? I'm having almost the exact same problem as Bougie!st, nicely carbed beers just coming out as foam with FC taps, no matter the restriction on the tap...


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I

I've got one, that I've been using mostly for soda water. But now I'm running beer through it, same issue with foaming.

The other taps are SS perlick FC taps. And I reckon that but for the FC lever, I'd be foaming out with that too.

So for mine, it's a line length issue, nothwithstanding that an airconditioned Qld home is still going to provide a first pour foaminess at any rate (another project that I've got to get sorted).


----------



## Reman

I have 2 of the FC taps and I keep only about 1m of line to the tap. There can be foam with first poor, but choking off the flow for the first 1/4 of the pour and then gradually opening helps out. I've also found dialling back the serving pressure to 10psi helps too.


----------



## moonhead

Right, so brought the tube length right back last night, probably less than 1 metre now. It's helped a little, but it was very, very marginal. I'm not getting air in the beer line anymore, but it still foams like a mofo. I don't really want to go down the path of reducing the pressure to serve, seems like a huge pain, degassing the keg, re-pressurising at 10psi, pouring, then re-pressurising at the higher psi afterwards...


----------



## malt junkie

Just note the issue of getting gas bubbles in the line, could be the seal at the ball lock, between the dip tube and the ball lock.


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I

moonhead said:


> Right, so brought the tube length right back last night, probably less than 1 metre now. It's helped a little, but it was very, very marginal. I'm not getting air in the beer line anymore, but it still foams like a mofo. I don't really want to go down the path of reducing the pressure to serve, seems like a huge pain, degassing the keg, re-pressurising at 10psi, pouring, then re-pressurising at the higher psi afterwards...


This is basically where I'm at - repressuring is a pain. I can pour foam and then back the tap right back, but it isn't the most ideal thing, hence why I'll re-do the line with the extra length and slow the pour.


----------



## Aus_Rider_22

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> This is basically where I'm at - repressuring is a pain. I can pour foam and then back the tap right back, but it isn't the most ideal thing, hence why I'll re-do the line with the extra length and slow the pour.


Glad I am not the only one that has gone through this.

End of last year I bought the triple FC tap Kegerator4 from KK. It arrived minus beer and gas lines. I wasn't worried as I had heaps of spare 5mm line lying around. I purchased the FC taps with the thought that with them I can run minimal line and so I rigged my own short lengths up instead of waiting for the 2.5m/3m lengths that KK would send up from the missing package. 

After chilling the kegs over 3 days I decided to give it all a whirl. I would have wasted at least half a keg each of Vienna Lager and ESB trying to get a good pour. They were all foam. I could not get them pouring right with changes in pressure and adjustment of the FC lever. 

I ended up going with the original KK line lengths (what a pain having 3 coils of long line in there is!) and it has improved. First half a glass is always froth but that's probably got to do with 35+ degree temps.

Speaking of pressurising, a mate says he always burps the kegs before he begins a session. Is this recommended? I usually leave the gas connected at 12psi and go from there without releasing pressure.

Cheers!


----------



## malt junkie

12 PSI is probably a little high some where between 8 and 10 psi may bring everything inline for that consistent pour.


----------



## bradsbrew

So, what is the general concensus, are the taps good or not? I am up for another set and tossing up between the intertap and the perlick SS FC or is there another option?


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I

Very good tap. I'm really happy with it alongside 2 perlick 545FC, and I reckon it's a fantastic tap. I'm thinking seriously of buying their FC taps to replace the Perlicks.

For the above foaming issue (mine's a line issue), I have my reg at 8PSI.


----------



## moonhead

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> This is basically where I'm at - repressuring is a pain. I can pour foam and then back the tap right back, but it isn't the most ideal thing, hence why I'll re-do the line with the extra length and slow the pour.


Didn't I just read before that the extra line length is contributing to the foam, though?

Anyway, are people just accepting that there's a need to depressurise your keg before pouring? (and if so, what's the point in getting the flow control taps?)

Has anyone compared these to the Perlick FC taps, do they have the same issues?


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I

moonhead said:


> Didn't I just read before that the extra line length is contributing to the foam, though?
> 
> Anyway, are people just accepting that there's a need to depressurise your keg before pouring? (and if so, what's the point in getting the flow control taps?)
> 
> Has anyone compared these to the Perlick FC taps, do they have the same issues?


I have both taps, and the problem is the same. I have to get the Perlick FC taps (I only have a regular SS Intertap) right down to almost nothing to pour non-foam. The only difference is that the Intertap one, not being a FC, is harder to back the tap back easily (but can be done) to get the pour.

My issue with foam is purely a pressure issue - too much pressure and it's coming out way too quickly, even at 8PSI. So longer lines will solve it, by slowing that pressure down. (from what I've read)


----------



## Bougie!st

Now that I have reduced my line, I'm getting good pours, especially after the tap has cooled (more foam on first pour, but don't have to tip out - especially with a little patience). 

That does bring me to the fact that patience is needed. I have to throttle it to slowest setting to start and, even once the tap's cold, can only open it a little more to finish the pour. It is a wheat beer, held at 18psi though.

Overall, I am now happy and would get more, but with the shorter line as I have it now


----------



## Reman

I don't bother repressurising, once the keg is carbed up, let's say at 20psi which to me seems about 2.5 vols, then I dial back to 10psi to serve. Been through 4-5 kegs this way and they appear to keep the carb levels even if i leave them sitting there at 10psi for the 2-3 weeks they tend to last.


----------



## verysupple

moonhead said:


> Any further feedback on shorter tube lengths with the FC taps? I'm having almost the exact same problem as Bougie!st, nicely carbed beers just coming out as foam with FC taps, no matter the restriction on the tap...


I'm a bit late on the scene here, but this might help.

I was having a bit of a foaming problem when I first got my FC Intertaps. A bit of searching turned up this thread. Basically I simply needed to tighten the connection between the shank and the tap. Maybe air was getting in?

Happy brewing.

Edit: Subsequent posts in this thread show people are still having foaming issues with the FC ones. Mine work perfectly fine so I'll detail my system for reference:
- I serve anywhere from about 80 to 110 kPa (about 11 to 16 PSI) depending on beer style. I haven't tried a weissbier yet, though.
- Beer lines are 5 mm ID and ~1 m long (basically the minimum I needed to have a little slack).
- At higher pressures I need to back off the flow a bit - maybe 1/2 to 2/3 open. Up to ~100 kPa I typically have them fully open. Again, I haven't tried anything really highly carbonated yet.
- As I've discussed previously in this thread, I always get a little bit of foam on the first pour until the tap cools down, but it's not really a problem.


----------



## Meddo

Yep I've had the same problem a couple of times regarding tightness in the shank before I worked out what was going on. Conversely I've had a few other times where the tightness has caused the washer to deform under compression and so obstruct the beer flow with the FC fully open, so it's been a bit of a balancing act.

Generally though I'm really happy with the taps, I run shortest possible line length with two or three elbows in each line to avoid the fan in my keezer. No foaming issues other than from warm taps or when I've accidentally over-carbed a keg. Actually now I think of it, one of the taps still had some machining swarf (spelling?) inside which caused a bit of foaming before I pulled the tap apart and knocked it out. From memory I normally run at ~0.8 bar for carb and serve.


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## quadbox

I've got 2m of line on mine and have had absolutely zero issues. Will definitely be buying another at some point.


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## Sippa

Hey all,

I just bought 2 SS Intertaps non flow control for a new keg setup, was pretty convinced by the reading I had done that the Intertaps are pretty special for the money considering the nozzles available for them.

I have read here some of you having issues with flow control taps and have read elsewhere the same issues. Through my researching and internet searching I found this guys website were he appears to have a Ph.D in engineering and he made this beer line length calculator that people rave about, just thought I'd share it with you as I think calculating beer line length correctly is a far better option to control pours than most flow control taps, not that I have practical experience but it is the approach I will be putting to practice.

http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/

Cheers


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## moonhead

Sippa said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I just bought 2 SS Intertaps non flow control for a new keg setup, was pretty convinced by the reading I had done that the Intertaps are pretty special for the money considering the nozzles available for them.
> 
> I have read here some of you having issues with flow control taps and have read elsewhere the same issues. Through my researching and internet searching I found this guys website were he appears to have a Ph.D in engineering and he made this beer line length calculator that people rave about, just thought I'd share it with you as I think calculating beer line length correctly is a far better option to control pours than most flow control taps, not that I have practical experience but it is the approach I will be putting to practice.
> 
> http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/
> 
> Cheers


I would agree about line length and balancing being a better option than using flow control taps. The way the flow is controlled just seems to introduce far too much turbulence.

That said, I wish there was a more practical way to change over beer lines on a whim. Right now they best I've seen is an MFL post on the back of the shank, but they don't make 90 degree bended ones of those, like they do the barbs, so you end up with pipe stickout out precariously... a 90 degree bend with an MFL connection, and multiple pre-cut lengths of tubes that can be swapped out with each keg, that would be ideal. (don't even speak to me about push in fittings *shakes fist violently*)


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## Lionman

moonhead said:


> I would agree about line length and balancing being a better option than using flow control taps. The way the flow is controlled just seems to introduce far too much turbulence.
> 
> That said, I wish there was a more practical way to change over beer lines on a whim. Right now they best I've seen is an MFL post on the back of the shank, but they don't make 90 degree bended ones of those, like they do the barbs, so you end up with pipe stickout out precariously... a 90 degree bend with an MFL connection, and multiple pre-cut lengths of tubes that can be swapped out with each keg, that would be ideal. (don't even speak to me about push in fittings *shakes fist violently*)


Just cut them off. You don't lose that much line, a centimetre or two at most.

And you can get MFL elbows http://www.homebrewusa.com/elbow-1-4-ffl-x-1-4-barb

What would be more ideal is a post on the back of the shank so yu can just have ball lock disconects on there.


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## moonhead

Lionman said:


> Just cut them off. You don't lose that much line, a centimetre or two at most.
> 
> And you can get MFL elbows http://www.homebrewusa.com/elbow-1-4-ffl-x-1-4-barb
> 
> What would be more ideal is a post on the back of the shank so yu can just have ball lock disconects on there.


Not really what I mean, I'm talking about the barb/MFL connector on the back of the tap shank - http://kegking.com.au/keg-couplers-and-keg-disconnects/taps/angle-barbtail-to-be-used-with-5-8-hex-nut.html Can't find any 90 elbow versions with MFL connectors instead of barbs.


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## barls

try these 
Stem Elbow - Stem OD 5/16" (8mm) its john guest so good quality.


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## bradsbrew

verysupple said:


> I'm a bit late on the scene here, but this might help.
> 
> I was having a bit of a foaming problem when I first got my FC Intertaps. A bit of searching turned up this thread. Basically I simply needed to tighten the connection between the shank and the tap. Maybe air was getting in?
> 
> Happy brewing.
> 
> Edit: Subsequent posts in this thread show people are still having foaming issues with the FC ones. Mine work perfectly fine so I'll detail my system for reference:
> - I serve anywhere from about 80 to 110 kPa (about 11 to 16 PSI) depending on beer style. I haven't tried a weissbier yet, though.
> - Beer lines are 5 mm ID and ~1 m long (basically the minimum I needed to have a little slack).
> - At higher pressures I need to back off the flow a bit - maybe 1/2 to 2/3 open. Up to ~100 kPa I typically have them fully open. Again, I haven't tried anything really highly carbonated yet.
> - As I've discussed previously in this thread, I always get a little bit of foam on the first pour until the tap cools down, but it's not really a problem.


Well I'll be buggered. I was getting heaps of foam , a quick tighten of the nut and it's perfect.

Cheers


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## moonhead

barls said:


> try these
> Stem Elbow - Stem OD 5/16" (8mm) its john guest so good quality.


I've gotten to a point now where I refuse to use push in fittings for any long term connections. Far too many leaks. While barb and MFL fittings, I've never had a problem with.


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## abyss

G'day all
I have been using a pair of SS Intertaps for around eight months and and love them but one started pouring foamy beers recently so today I ripped em apart.
What I found to be the cause apart from bits of hops and stuff was the washer behind the spout. It had bits hanging off it that was causing the flow to be not circular if you know what I mean (like putting your finger on the edge of a hose).
I replaced the washer with an O ring and I'm back to perfect cold ones.
I only hand tightened the tap assemblies but went a bit harder on the shank and collar.


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## claypot

I've been trialling a SS FC intertap for a few months and love it I'm going to buy another 3.
I was a bit put off to start with given the earlier posts on leaks. I've no drama with mine.
I have had a little bit of foaming, but I compared it with my other non intertap and it also foamed. The beauty of the FC is I close it off and slowly open to chill the tap and all good. I have an above keezer font so tap gets pretty warm when not in use.
It's awesome for filling growlers too, no need for the growler filler nozzle just slip some hose over the supplied nozzle, start with no flow then slowly increase. I thought the hose I.D would of been too big but to the contrary it actually works well with the bigger I.D. I do have a Kegking stainless insulated growler that I put in the freezer with the lid off prior to filling though. If I do this I can fill to the top with next to no foam!
Over all pretty happy and when you see the amount of machining in the parts I think the price is justified.


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## Keg King

Some of you might like the new modular font kits now available from Keg King.


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## zoigl

Keg King said:


> Some of you might like the new modular font kits now available from Keg King. View attachment 119975


How tall is it? will I be able to get my 500ml. German beer glasses under the tap?


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## Keg King

zoigl said:


> How tall is it? will I be able to get my 500ml. German beer glasses under the tap?


A 500 ml glass hardly qualifies as a german beer glass .. hehe. Anything less than a litre is suspect. Yes I think you will find that it will.


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## Coalminer

I think the question was "how tall is it?"


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## Keg King

Coalminer said:


> I think the question was "how tall is it?"


Bit flat out here but will check it for you now ...just wait here whilst I walk downstairs to measure it.'

OK - 270mm - smiles


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## zoigl

This 270mm is to the bottom of the tap? I bought a tower from you in the past and it will not fill a 500ml German beer glass, I discussed this at the time of my purchase, and did not get a satisfactory response.


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## Keg King

zoigl said:


> This 270mm is to the bottom of the tap? I bought a tower from you in the past and it will not fill a 500ml German beer glass, I discussed this at the time of my purchase, and did not get a satisfactory response.





zoigl said:


> This 270mm is to the bottom of the tap? I bought a tower from you in the past and it will not fill a 500ml German beer glass, I discussed this at the time of my purchase, and did not get a satisfactory response.


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## fdsaasdf

zoigl said:


> This 270mm is to the bottom of the tap? I bought a tower from you in the past and it will not fill a 500ml German beer glass, I discussed this at the time of my purchase, and did not get a satisfactory response.


I had this problem with my kegerator when I got it 7 years ago, and the clearance was reduced further by my 30mm high drip tray. I solved it by making a timber collar out of varnished pine to extend the height of the tower by ~50mm (and better secure the font tower against the top of the kegerator).


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## fdsaasdf

Keg King said:


> *pics removed


imagine if one of those 5 photos gave a horizontal shot of the measurement


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## Keg King

fdsaasdf said:


> imagine if one of those 5 photos gave a horizontal shot of the measurement


It was meant to be only 3 pics - not sure how the hell it turned into 5.


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## Keg King

Don't come here much but what the heck. Here is something new:










Turn Your UltraTap to UltraTap TWIST
Experience the ultimate in flow control convenience with a new twist in the design. Ultratap Twist takes the world’s best laminar flow forward sealing design tap and provides a flow control feature that you can operate with one hand directly from the tap handle. https://www.keg-king.com.au/ultratap-twist-flow-control.html When it comes to ...
www.youtube.com


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## Meddo

Keg King said:


> Don't come here much but what the heck. Here is something new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turn Your UltraTap to UltraTap TWIST
> Experience the ultimate in flow control convenience with a new twist in the design. Ultratap Twist takes the world’s best laminar flow forward sealing design tap and provides a flow control feature that you can operate with one hand directly from the tap handle. https://www.keg-king.com.au/ultratap-twist-flow-control.html When it comes to ...
> www.youtube.com



Cool 

Would love to get my hands on an upgrade kit to trial but my brewery's in storage for a while. I'm intrigued by the flow control mechanism - do you have any diagrams or anything to show how it works in lieu of inspecting a real piece? I understand if there's limits on what you want to publish though.

I've had greatest success using ball-style taps with long flow cones and a collar mechanism built into the shank to vary the flow - especially for higher carbed beers. If you can get comparable results with a compact mechanism like that it would be pretty impressive, and one-handed is neat regardless.


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## FarsideOfCrazy

Looks interesting. Can you use the auto close spring with the new fc mechanism?


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## BananaMan

Keg King said:


> Don't come here much but what the heck. Here is something new:



Wow that looks really cool. I have some older Intertap models that I purchased from you guys some time ago. Do you know if the flow control upgrade kit will fit in those?


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## scomet

Keg King said:


> Don't come here much


We like you coming here.......


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