# Motion Dynamics Mill Motor Wiring



## Crusty (3/4/20)

Hey guys.
After owning my mill motor for well over a year & still sitting in the box, I thought it might be time to wire it up. I've followed a few examples on the net but I can't seem to get power from the power supply to the mill motor.
Could someone drop some photos in here describing what wire goes where. I've wired up the 240V side so the power supply powers up, the red motor wire in top port of green pcb board, black motor wire to the bottom of the pcb board but I'm stuck there.
I've got this power supply,


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## RRising (3/4/20)

Can you post an actual photo of your motor and wiring?

Are you having trouble with the power supply side or motor side wiring?

I found this... might be what you are looking for.






From what i can gather, pink line is positive and green is negative.


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## Crusty (3/4/20)

I looked at that but my PSU is different.
From the left of mine, I have +V for three ports, -V for the next three ports then E,N,L. I would assume one wire goes to the +V & the other to the-V but not too sure where those wires then go on the green pcb board. I've got it wired different to above so I might do what is done there. I'll give it a go.
Cheers


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## Crusty (3/4/20)

Thanks guys.
I've got it sorted & it works.
Cheers


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## Crusty (4/4/20)

Can someone that's wired up their Motion Dynamics mill motor show me what wires they put where from the variable speed pot to the little green board. I've tried wiring it up in so many configurations but the motor just runs flat out, no speed control at all. I'm starting to think I have a faulty board.


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## wide eyed and legless (5/4/20)

Don't know if you have already looked at this Crusty





Aussie Home Brewer Mill Motor and Controller Special!


180 RPM, 20NM Torque, High Powered Worm Drive Gearbox, Suitable for Wheelchairs, Scooters and other applications requiring High Speed with High Torque with DC 25A PCB (Bare Bones) Controller




www.motiondynamics.com.au


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

wide eyed and legless said:


> Don't know if you have already looked at this Crusty
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for that. That's the package I have.
I just can't seem to get the speed control to work. The potentiometer is fine, I've measured resistance with a volt meter & it works but when I wire it up to the PC board, nothing, no matter in which configuration I wire it.


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## wide eyed and legless (5/4/20)

Give them a ring tomorrow


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

wide eyed and legless said:


> Give them a ring tomorrow



Will do but there's shit loads of people on here that have wired them up & was hoping to get some insight. I'm stumped with what's going on. It's wired correctly as far as I can tell & I'm a bit suspicious that my board is cactus.


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## wide eyed and legless (5/4/20)

Best way to look for old threads is through Google. I was going to suggest Jaycar if there was one near you, but they will be in lockdown the guys there a pretty helpful.
Just Google motion dynamics Aussie Home Brewer, tried to link it but it didn't work.


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

wide eyed and legless said:


> Best way to look for old threads is through Google. I was going to suggest Jaycar if there was one near you, but they will be in lockdown the guys there a pretty helpful.
> Just Google motion dynamics Aussie Home Brewer, tried to link it but it didn't work.



Yeah, tried all that.
Cheers


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## RRising (5/4/20)

Crusty said:


> Can someone that's wired up their Motion Dynamics mill motor show me what wires they put where from the variable speed pot to the little green board. I've tried wiring it up in so many configurations but the motor just runs flat out, no speed control at all. I'm starting to think I have a faulty board.



Have you got it on the right jumper settings?






According to this, you need it on J1 2-3 for the potentiometer.


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

I'm not sure. I have it wired to the same three ports as in the picture.
The bottom three ports on the left. The motor works fine just no speed control.


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

Do I need to have a switch inline to possibly power the pot? Maybe that's the problem. If I don't wire a switch in, can I just use a jumper lead into the top block?
Where my thumb is, out the top & in the bottom of the same block, the very top one.


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## MHB (5/4/20)

On the right hand side, numbering the terminals from 1-8 top down.
In the drawing they have a jumper from 1-2 and 7-8, I cant see the same on your board, it might be that the control isn't being powered.
Mind you I'm OK with wiring power but electronics isn't really my thing.
Mark


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

MHB said:


> On the right hand side, numbering the terminals from 1-8 top down.
> In the drawing they have a jumper from 1-2 and 7-8, I cant see the same on your board, it might be that the control isn't being powered.
> Mind you I'm OK with wiring power but electronics isn't really my thing.
> Mark



Thanks Mark.
It's so bloody confusing. This came with it as the instructions, different again. I don't think you need the jumper wires for 30A, according to instructions it's for 50A as ports 1,2 are the same, 3,4 are the same etc.


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

I ran a jumper lead into that first terminal block & a green light activates so there's power but still no bloody speed control.


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

I even tried soldering the pot.
I give up!


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## Grmblz (5/4/20)

Plug and play, heavy duty planetary gearbox and speed control https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-1050w-multi-purpose-mixing-drill_p6290204 sorry mate you're probably aware of this but just in case.


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## Crusty (5/4/20)

Grmblz said:


> Plug and play, heavy duty planetary gearbox and speed control https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-1050w-multi-purpose-mixing-drill_p6290204 sorry mate you're probably aware of this but just in case.



Thanks but I've been milling with the Ozito drill for a few years. I bought this kit a couple of years back at least & want to get it going. I've managed to power the motor, just can't get any speed control.


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## Crusty (6/4/20)

Thanks guys.
I've read, searched the net & watched the suppliers website video on how to wire it up. I've done exactly as instructed & I can now only assume that I've been sold the board for the hall effect which renders the board useless with a potentiometer or I've been sold a dud board from the start. I've sent photos through to Motion Dynamics of my wiring & also a photo of the board. All my connections & soldering joints were checked for continuity with a volt meter & all connections passed. I've had the kit for well over 2yrs, maybe 3, so I'm not holding my breath for a free replacement. The new boards are about $48.00.
Cheers.


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## Grmblz (7/4/20)

If you get no joy from them this seems like a pretty good deal, it's not quite the same amps but that will depend on load anyway and I don't think a mill will load up that motor too much, reversible, soft start, and boxed up ready to go. ttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-24V-36V-48V-SoftStart-Reversible-Motor-PWM-Speed-Control-PWM-Controller/132754028140?hash=item1ee8c1b66c:g:BcoAAOSwcTlbfY20


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## Crusty (7/4/20)

Grmblz said:


> If you get no joy from them this seems like a pretty good deal, it's not quite the same amps but that will depend on load anyway and I don't think a mill will load up that motor too much, reversible, soft start, and boxed up ready to go. ttps://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-24V-36V-48V-SoftStart-Reversible-Motor-PWM-Speed-Control-PWM-Controller/132754028140?hash=item1ee8c1b66c:g:BcoAAOSwcTlbfY20



Cheers


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## Ballaratguy (8/4/20)

I’m finding this interesting as I have a motor that looks very similar
I tried running it in a 12v power supply via a switch and variable speed but it didn’t have the torque to crush (I’ve got a mash master mill master mill)
I put it onto a 24V power supply which ran the motor but burnt out the variable speed unit so I hooked the motor directly to the power supply. It barely turned the motor
Because I was about to mill grain I then wired up a couple of 12v batteries to make 24v and the motor really worked well (crushed 5kg in less than 5 min)
I’ve since tried to use the 24v power supply but only got it to turn the motor properly once. For some reason it seems to reduce power when I wire the motor to the power supply, however when I put the motor onto a 12v supply it spins beautifully
Next is to try to do a crush on the 12v power supply
Otherwise I’m thinking the 24v power supply is too small or stuffed
24v 250w 10a
The draw from the motor is 68 w when running with no load
Got me stuffed


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## Crusty (8/4/20)

Ballaratguy said:


> I’m finding this interesting as I have a motor that looks very similar
> I tried running it in a 12v power supply via a switch and variable speed but it didn’t have the torque to crush (I’ve got a mash master mill master mill)
> I put it onto a 24V power supply which ran the motor but burnt out the variable speed unit so I hooked the motor directly to the power supply. It barely turned the motor
> Because I was about to mill grain I then wired up a couple of 12v batteries to make 24v and the motor really worked well (crushed 5kg in less than 5 min)
> ...



That's weird!
To be honest & fair to the guys over at Motion Dynamics, they do a great special deal on the motor & speed controller for home brewers & I haven't heard of anyone having any trouble with theirs but my experience with them is vastly different. IMO, the motor is top notch, the board, well, I'm almost 100% certain I got a dodgy one. I've sent emails, Friday, again Monday, rang three times on different days to no avail. I really think that their customer service is as poor as shit & I'm not going to bother sourcing another board from them, I'll get one elsewhere. I just get the feeling that they simply don't really give a shit once you've spent your money. There's plenty of competition all over the net & if you can't be bothered dealing with a customers problem, through no fault of their own, that speaks volumes to me. A simple call back or a return of an email is all I was looking for. I was more than happy to purchase another board from them but just needed some guidance on a potential fix for mine before doing so.


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## Ballaratguy (8/4/20)

Crusty said:


> That's weird!
> To be honest & fair to the guys over at Motion Dynamics, they do a great special deal on the motor & speed controller for home brewers & I haven't heard of anyone having any trouble with theirs but my experience with them is vastly different. IMO, the motor is top notch, the board, well, I'm almost 100% certain I got a dodgy one. I've sent emails, Friday, again Monday, rang three times on different days to no avail. I really think that their customer service is as poor as shit & I'm not going to bother sourcing another board from them, I'll get one elsewhere. I just get the feeling that they simply don't really give a shit once you've spent your money. There's plenty of competition all over the net & if you can't be bothered dealing with a customers problem, through no fault of their own, that speaks volumes to me. A simple call back or a return of an email is all I was looking for. I was more than happy to purchase another board from them but just needed some guidance on a potential fix for mine before doing so.


Do you really need the speed control function?
With my set up when I ran the motor of the batteries at 24v it worked flawlessly. Reversing switch I can see a need for but speed control, I’m yet to be convinced on the need


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## Crusty (8/4/20)

Ballaratguy said:


> Do you really need the speed control function?
> With my set up when I ran the motor of the batteries at 24v it worked flawlessly. Reversing switch I can see a need for but speed control, I’m yet to be convinced on the need



You don't really, it's not absolutely necessary as it runs at 180rpm so that speed is fine. I would rather run a bit under that though hence me trying to get the speed control to work. It's nice to have that flexibility.


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## Sidney Harbour-Bridge (9/4/20)

I've been thinking about powering my mill ever since I bought it, I've checked out the motion dynamics web site and as far as I can tell without the coupling, drive shaft and power supply I would be better off buying the keg king motor/gearbox combo, thoughts?


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## Crusty (9/4/20)

Sidney Harbour-Bridge said:


> I've been thinking about powering my mill ever since I bought it, I've checked out the motion dynamics web site and as far as I can tell without the coupling, drive shaft and power supply I would be better off buying the keg king motor/gearbox combo, thoughts?



It's entirely up to you but I've heard the Keg King mill struggles to fire with a full hopper of grain. Someone who has one may chime in & correct me if I'm wrong but I read it somewhere. The MD motor though has a whopping 20Nm of torque so won't struggle with that issue at all. The Keg King comes in at $249 & the MD brewers special is $124. My 30A power supply was about $35.00, the stainless shaft pretty cheap & the spider coupling was only about $15.


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## Sidney Harbour-Bridge (10/4/20)

Thanks Crusty.

I think your parts bill is $187 if you buy the motion dynamics shaft, where did you find the power supply and coupling?

Is there postage on top of that?

Did you need to make a mount for the motor?

Interestingly the KK unit is described as high torque but no figures are given.

Would appreciate feedback on the KK motor.


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## Crusty (10/4/20)

Sidney Harbour-Bridge said:


> Thanks Crusty.
> 
> I think your parts bill is $187 if you buy the motion dynamics shaft, where did you find the power supply and coupling?
> 
> ...



I got the power supply off ebay, the 30A one, I think it was around $35.00. Spider coupling was also off ebay, just make sure you get the correct size to fit the stainless rod as well as your mill handle. Most people improvise with mounting making their own brackets but there's heaps of different ways to do it.


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## Ballaratguy (11/4/20)

Crusty said:


> I got the power supply off ebay, the 30A one, I think it was around $35.00. Spider coupling was also off ebay, just make sure you get the correct size to fit the stainless rod as well as your mill handle. Most people improvise with mounting making their own brackets but there's heaps of different ways to do it.


Was your power supply 12v or 24v?
My motor didn’t have the torque to crush when used on 12v


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## Crusty (11/4/20)

Ballaratguy said:


> Was your power supply 12v or 24v?
> My motor didn’t have the torque to crush when used on 12v



12V.


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## Crusty (11/4/20)

Can someone chime in who knows a bit about potentiometers.
On the MD website, they state that they use 10K pots for their speed control boards & I can't get any speed control at all with mine. The motor runs at full speed, just no control. Upon further investigation, I have been sent a 5K potentiometer instead. Will this be the cause of no speed control adjustment or is it the board itself? I've tested for continuity on all soldering joints & everything is as it should be. The board looks fine so I really don't know whats going on.


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## Grmblz (11/4/20)

Crusty said:


> Can someone chime in who knows a bit about potentiometers.
> On the MD website, they state that they use 10K pots for their speed control boards & I can't get any speed control at all with mine. The motor runs at full speed, just no control. Upon further investigation, I have been sent a 5K potentiometer instead. Will this be the cause of no speed control adjustment or is it the board itself? I've tested for continuity on all soldering joints & everything is as it should be. The board looks fine so I really don't know whats going on.


I think I'd be inclined to send them the board with a polite "can you check this please" note. I know you've had it a while but any company worth it's salt would at least look at it (take about 2 minutes on the bench to test it) and if you get sorry mate it's US at least you're not chasing your tail.


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## Crusty (11/4/20)

Grmblz said:


> I think I'd be inclined to send them the board with a polite "can you check this please" note. I know you've had it a while but any company worth it's salt would at least look at it (take about 2 minutes on the bench to test it) and if you get sorry mate it's US at least you're not chasing your tail.



Yeah, I tried to get some insight over the phone & via email. Called on three different days, sent emails with photos twice & they said on the phone would get back to me. Rang a couple of days later after no contact & told the same thing. I'm not going to send the board back as it appears they really don't give a rats arse. That's the impression I get anyhow. I've ordered a couple of 10K pots off ebay & they'll be here next week. If that fails, I'll look at another board but it certainly wont be from them.


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## Grmblz (11/4/20)

Crusty said:


> Yeah, I tried to get some insight over the phone & via email. Called on three different days, sent emails with photos twice & they said on the phone would get back to me. Rang a couple of days later after no contact & told the same thing. I'm not going to send the board back as it appears they really don't give a rats arse. That's the impression I get anyhow. I've ordered a couple of 10K pots off ebay & they'll be here next week. If that fails, I'll look at another board but it certainly wont be from them.


Yeah looks like they're just re-sellers bunging on their % and no back up, quite a lot of that happening these days.


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## Crusty (11/4/20)

Grmblz said:


> Yeah looks like they're just re-sellers bunging on their % and no back up, quite a lot of that happening these days.



They have some great quality gear & went above & beyond years ago to match up a mill motor for us home brewers. I'm not in any way bagging what they sell but I'm really disappointed that they couldn't be arsed to sort out my drama. Yes, there's much more important things happening all over the world at the moment but it's really not too hard to reply to an email or get a call back if you expect repeat business. If someone asked for my opinion on whether to purchase from them, I'd say go for it, great gear but be prepared to expect absolutely zero after sales service & if you do strike a problem, no point calling or emailing them, they could't be bothered or simply don't have the time for that. I spoke to Ryan on the phone who is in all their youtube video builds on their website so you'd expect him to be the one to talk to but he wanted to pass on my info to someone from tech support who I believe now is non existent. 
Thanks for the motor boys but you won't be seeing another cent from me. ( Not that they give a shit )


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## caney (12/4/20)

Hey Crusty,
With a potentiometer, only one terminal is for the -ve and the other two as follows:

1) Fixed resistance value, typically full rating of the potentiometer, so in your case 5kohm. Usually end terminal.

2) Variable range, 0-5kohm. Usually middle terminal.

If your speed is going flat out, you may have the connectors arse about cause the controller to receive the 5kohm value only from the fixed terminal of the potentiometer and thus run at full speed. 

If you have a multimeter or access to one I can discuss futher how to confirm potentiometer values and correct terminals. 

Hope this helps. 

Cheers
Caney


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## Crusty (12/4/20)

caney said:


> Hey Crusty,
> With a potentiometer, only one terminal is for the -ve and the other two as follows:
> 
> 1) Fixed resistance value, typically full rating of the potentiometer, so in your case 5kohm. Usually end terminal.
> ...



Thanks Caney.
I have tested the pot on both outside terminals, 4.45kohm. Middle terminal & left terminal, resistance increases & decreases as it should. Middle terminal & right terminal, resistance increases & decreases as it should. 
I have tried reversing the outside terminals to the board but motor still runs flat out. According to the Motion Dynamics instructions, the middle terminal of the pot goes to the middle port on the board & the left & right terminals can go on either the left or right of the board depending which way you want to increase the speed of the motor when turning the knob.


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## Cliff (12/4/20)

I had a similar problem with mine. I stalled it starting with a full hopper of wheat and too small a gap.
This let the smoke out of the board and the speed control no longer worked. Still milled at single speed.

They got me to send the board back and they repaired for free. Took a while and a couple of calls to get it returned as I think it was miss placed


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## caney (12/4/20)

I would follow the negative circuit on the board through and find out which of the terminals this is for the potentiometer. 
I would then connect the negative terminal to one of the outside potentiometer terminal (only this conenction) effectivly grounding this to circuit then check the resistance of the other two potentiometer connections with multimetre and see if they read from 0-4.45k.


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## Crusty (12/4/20)

Thanks Caney.
I'm no expert at this stuff so you'll have to explain it to me like a child.
So I connect up the board to the 12V power supply & fire it up, ( motor is now running ) after I have connected the middle terminal from the board to the middle terminal of the potentiometer then put my probes on the other two ports of the pot, turn the dial & check if the value increases, decreases when I turn the dial?
I won't kill myself with the board active will I?


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## Crusty (12/4/20)

caney said:


> I would follow the negative circuit on the board through and find out which of the terminals this is for the potentiometer.
> I would then connect the negative terminal to one of the outside potentiometer terminal (only this conenction) effectivly grounding this to circuit then check the resistance of the other two potentiometer connections with multimetre and see if they read from 0-4.45k.



Ok,
Without power on, as you look at the pot, I soldered one wire onto the left port of the pot then the wire runs to the middle presumably ground on the board & I get 4.45 on the multi meter from the other two ports on the pot. When I rotate the knob clockwise, the value does in fact decrease from 4.45 to 0.


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## Crusty (12/4/20)

Thanks for all your help guys but it's the end of the road.
I somehow smoked my 12V power supply so in a fit of rage, it's all in the bin.
Motor still works though. Happy days.


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## Crusty (23/4/20)

Take 2.
Ordered some gear off ebay & we're off.
Wired it all up to see if it would work & presto, it works perfectly. 0-100% speed control on the motor.
Thanks Motion Dynamics for the awesome motor but you can stick the dodgy board & your pathetic customer service right where the sun don't shine.


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## Grmblz (23/4/20)

Glad you finally got it going, evil bay has its uses.


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## philrob (24/4/20)

Can you please give us a link to your ebay purchase?


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## postmaster (24/4/20)

Crusty said:


> Take 2.
> Ordered some gear off ebay & we're off.
> Wired it all up to see if it would work & presto, it works perfectly. 0-100% speed control on the motor.
> Thanks Motion Dynamics for the awesome motor but you can stick the dodgy board & your pathetic customer service right where the sun don't shine.
> ...


Same as philrob a link for the speedo would be good. Looks great


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## Grmblz (24/4/20)

DC6-60V 12V 24V 36V 48V 30A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Start Stop Switch 826964114528 | eBay looks the same.


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## Crusty (24/4/20)

Speed control








DC6-60V 12V 24V 36V 48V 30A PWM DC Motor Speed Controller Start Stop Switch | eBay


Output current: 0-30A. Speed range: 0 - 100%. Can not input 220V household electricity.



www.ebay.com.au





Power supply








New AC 110-240V to DC 12V/24V 10A/15A/20A/30A Transformer Regulated Power Supply | eBay


DC output: 12V 10A/20A/30A, 24V 15A (Optional). 24V 15A 360W. 12V 20A 240W. 12V 30A 360W. 12V 10A 120W. AC input : 110V/240V±15%. Type (Output). 100% full load burn-in test.



www.ebay.com.au


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## philrob (25/4/20)

Thank you !


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## Sidney Harbour-Bridge (26/4/20)

Crusty said:


> Thanks for all your help guys but it's the end of the road.
> I somehow smoked my 12V power supply so in a fit of rage, it's all in the bin.
> Motor still works though. Happy days.


Read this and ordered the KK unit, all the hassle you have had didn't seem worth the price difference to me.

Anyway good to see you got it all working in the end.

When I get my unit I'll post a quick report of how it goes.


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## Crusty (26/4/20)

Sidney Harbour-Bridge said:


> Read this and ordered the KK unit, all the hassle you have had didn't seem worth the price difference to me.
> 
> Anyway good to see you got it all working in the end.
> 
> When I get my unit I'll post a quick report of how it goes.



Under normal circumstances, It wouldn't of been a problem, I just got a dodgy board & my mistake toasted my 12V power supply. 
The new gear I ordered from ebay is perfect. I just need to get it installed into a box & get the mill on a stand & I'm ready to go.


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## Sidney Harbour-Bridge (3/5/20)

Keg king motor and gearbox arrived on Friday, comprehensive kit of parts, including 10 and 12 mm spider connectors and key for gearbox. All parts were wired up except for a power lead, quick trip to Mitre 10 had that sorted.

I spent yesterday mounting it all to the mill, biggest hassle was getting the height of the shafts to match, the mill was 4 mm lower than the gearbox which I fixed with some shims made from 3 mm thick perspex and 1 mm steel.

I wired the panic button up to the mains lead, plugged in switched on and the rollers went round, just need to test on grain, next weekend probably.


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## wide eyed and legless (3/5/20)

Going to have to do something with my mill, haven't got the room for anything fancy, still using the drill with a hole drilled in the trigger as a stop to get the right revolutions.
I will have to get my thinking cap on and make a permanent set up with the drill.


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## Sidney Harbour-Bridge (10/5/20)

Just for completeness, I used the mill powered by the KK motor/gearbox unit, it worked flawlessly and un-eventfully, milling 3.5 Kg of grain in just a few minutes.

I know our hobby is about doing stuff because we can but I don't see any value in saving a few bucks to power a mill.

In my case, $270 very well spent.


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## Cian Doyle (11/5/20)

Sidney Harbour-Bridge said:


> Just for completeness, I used the mill powered by the KK motor/gearbox unit, it worked flawlessly and un-eventfully, milling 3.5 Kg of grain in just a few minutes.
> 
> I know our hobby is about doing stuff because we can but I don't see any value in saving a few bucks to power a mill.
> 
> In my case, $270 very well spent.


I have the geared 3 roller KK mill have found it to be really good just using the drill, looks like I am going to go down the the motorised mill avenue now.


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## postmaster (24/5/20)

New Grain mill setup. Finally got it how I want it. 3 Roller Mill from Keg King. Motor and PCB controller from Motor Dynamics. Project box from Jaycar and Power Pak from Ebay. Crush is .085 (2.15mm) . Its portable so I can hang it on the wall and put on the round white tubs also Hopefully another brew next week coming up.


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## Ballaratguy (1/6/20)

I worked out my motor power supply.
The 24v power supply was too low in wattage for my motor as well as my 12v power supply
I went to use my mill but the 2x dry cell batteries that I had connected as 24v wouldn’t work as one battery is dead, so in desperation I grabbed a 12v battery (sealed lead acid) with 275 cca and wow it worked
Did a bit of hunting and found that my motor draws 600w. 
no wonder the power supplies wouldn’t power it


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