# The Next Step Partial Recipes.



## DrewCarey82 (27/6/06)

G'day Guys.

Due to the recent discussion between AG's and Extract brewers and many kit brewers willing to have a go at partials and advance there brewing.

I feel it would be beneficial to have a partials thread.

What I would like to see is.

A. Ingrediants required - Simpler the better.
B. Equipment needed - As basic as possible.
C. The entire procedure set out in baby steps.

Maybe a tad time consuming but all on here are beer lovers and part of that love is helping others advance this craft.

Any assistance would be appreciated.... And as I've been told partial is one small step to AG after that!

Cheers fellas.


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## Steve (27/6/06)

If TD doesnt mind I think I'll go first:

1kg LME
3kg Pilsner malt mashed at 65deg
Bitter to 35 IBUs with 60min addition
25g Saaz @ 20mins
25g Saaz @ 5 mins
Saflager yeast at lager temps.


Cheers
Steve


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## DrewCarey82 (27/6/06)

Steve I was told that 50g wouldnt be enough for bittering?


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## Steve (27/6/06)

DrewCarey82 said:


> Steve I was told that 50g wouldnt be enough for bittering?



Drew - use 60gms at 60 mins (bittering)
25gms at 20 mins (flavour)
25gms at 5 mins (aroma)

Is that right guys.....?
Cheers
Steve


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## bconnery (27/6/06)

Meekan Mild
English Dark Mild Ale

I had a comment on this from an AG guy that this had a good grain character and he wouldn't have necessarily picked it as extract. 
It is a mild in the English style so the body is a little weaker.

Due to the smaller amounts of grain I don't use a bag or anything most of the time. Just a strainer...

I use the @time remaining recipe notation for those who aren't familiar with it. So @45 means that step is done with 45 minutes left of the boil. 
I realise many, maybe even most, people will know this but Drew did suggest lots of info 

*Ingredients*
1kg Light LME. 1kg Amber DME. 
150g Caramunich 50g Chocolate 100g Roast malt 
25g Target 30g Goldings 
Safale s04

*Method*
Place Caramunich and Chocolate grain in a saucepan with just under 500mls water. 
Bring temperature up to around 65-70C and keep there for 1hr. Stir fairly frequently. 
I place the pot in an oven kept at around 50-70C and just monitor. 
Strain water into main wort pot. 
Rinse grains in strainer with water around 76-82C. This is my sparge. 

NB: This is my half-arsed, probably wildly inefficient, mashing technique.
I use the following info as a guideline.
1100mls of water per 450grams of grain (or 244mls per 100 grams)
keep between 65.55 and 71.11 degrees
rinse with water that is about 76.66 and 82.22 degrees
These where all converted from Imperial measurements...

Place roast malt in a saucepan with about 200ml water.
Steep on a slightler lower heat until water is boiling - approx 10 mins. 
Strain water into main wort pot. 

25g Target hops & 1KG LME @45 in main wort pot. Take the pot off the heat and stir in. 
1kg Amber DME @15 in main wort pot. Take the pot off the heat and stir in. 

30g Goldings @5

Into fermenter and topped up with cold water to make 21L
Pitched yeast.
OG:1030
FG: 1008

Racked to secondary after 1 week. 
Bulk primed with 150g Dextrose after another 1 week.


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## AngelTearsOnMyTongue (27/6/06)

bconnery said:


> I use the @time remaining recipe notation for those who aren't familiar with it. So @45 means that step is done with 45 minutes left of the boil.
> I realise many, maybe even most, people will know this but Drew did suggest lots of info




No Thats great bconnery. I had wondered on this very issue and you have clarified it. ie. does 45 mean after 45 mins or with 45 mins to go?

I reckon the more info the better for newbies to Partials and AG.

BTW Very sad this morning after sitting up to watch the WC. Wish I had a beer to be bottled named after this sad event. I will start one today. Certainly the angels are crying and I should bottle thier tears.  


ATOMT


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## DrewCarey82 (27/6/06)

Looks like this thread died in the arse nice and quick.


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## bconnery (27/6/06)

DrewCarey82 said:


> Looks like this thread died in the arse nice and quick.


Give it time. 
It is a schoolday...


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## Bizarre (27/6/06)

DrewCarey82 said:


> Looks like this thread died in the arse nice and quick.




I've done a lot of partials, but unfortunately I'm at work just now and dont have access to any of my info - when I get home I will try and remember to post some stuff one here. I have the memory capacity of a slug so I cant make any promises though!


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## johnno (27/6/06)

jayse said:


> i have a extract recipe.
> it may be a little more complex than what your after johnno.it requires steeping grain and boiling wort with hops etc.so its a full extract recipe and requires a 10 litre boil for one hour so not really a kit extract recipe.you'll need a big pot.
> 
> i beleive that msb may actually use a lager yeast and from memory also use wheat anyway this extract recipe is based on the guidelines for porter.
> ...




The above was my first ever partial mash.
I ended up using aboiut 3 and a half kilos of dry light extract with the grains.
Used a colander to strain the grain and rinse it of a bit. Probably didnt get all the sugars out but still made an excellent beer.

The best advice I can give is just go for it.

Whn I made this I had never seen the process and was just trying to remember all that I had read.

It really was not that difficult in the end.


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## DrewCarey82 (27/6/06)

Dont worry guys I am just in a filthy.

Asked my missus to put the heater on the fermentor before she left for work which she does..... But being the airhead she is....

1. Puts it about 20cm away from the the fermentor.
2. Puts it on full.

A cause its got a blanket wrapped around it, it could cause a fire and B, because it was left on there for about 4 hours may have fucked my first partial as good knows what the temp got up to, only bonus is fermentation was just about down.


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## PostModern (27/6/06)

> 01:33 PM' post='137360']
> Looks like this thread died in the arse nice and quick.



How do you make that? You only posted it this morning! I'll post a fairly long description of my process and equipment, which makes a pretty decent ale. I'll leave recipes up to others as I'm at work and don't have my recipes here.

As the last few days have shown, there are plenty of different ways to make a partial mash beer. 

*Equipment:*
I use a 10 litre esky for my mash tun (one of the blue "six pack" eskies like you see builders etc carry around for lunch. I think they're about $40 at Bunnings). Inside this I place a copper pipe manifold like this:






The slits in the pipes let the wort thru but hold back the grains. Note the irrigation tap fitting. This is used to slow down the sparge, which increases efficiency.

*Mash Tun
*Two pasta/soup pots (or one large stock pot)
*Thermometer
*Hydrometer
*Spoons


*Mash:*
With the esky I can mash ~just~ on 3Kg of grain with a 2.5:1 liquor:grist ratio. You know about mashing, add the strike water to the esky at the right temp, stir the grain in quickly and give it a good through mixing (without splashing). I then put the esky onto a folded bath towel and wrap it up with more towels and blankets to keep the heat as constant as possible. About 2-3 times during the 1 hour mash, I open up, check the temp and stir the mash around with a slotted spoon mash paddle.

*Sparge:*
I use two large-ish pots for the boil. Towards the end of the mash, I heat up the sparge water (into the high 70's) in the larger of the two pots. When the mash is complete, I run off into a jug and gently pour it back onto the top of the mash until it runs clear, then I run the rest off into the small pot (which can hold all of the first runnings). I then gently add the sparge water, stir, wait a few mins for it to settle, then I recirculate again with the jug until clear, then run off into the large pot until I have collected all of the water. 

*Boil:*
Both pots are then placed on adjacent hotplates on my kitchen stove where I turn on full heat. While the wort is coming to the boil, I use a SS ladle to take a spoonful of wort from one pot and put it into the other, then take a spoonful of that and put it into the first. I keep this up until a boil is achieved in an attempt to equalise the gravity between the pots. When the boil is under way, I add the hops roughly half and half to the two pots. Usually, by the end of the boil, enough has evaporated so that the whole lot fits into the larger pot, which I achieve with a ladle, NOT by pouring. (If I were to brew regularly on the stove again, I'd buy a larger stock pot, but as I'm finally getting AG going, I won't bother). Towards the end of the boil, I add any extract and sugar.

*Chill*
Place the large pot (with the lid on) in a sink full of cold tap water. Gently swirl the pot to improve heat transfer and reduce stratification in the chill water. When the first sinkful of water is hot, I run it out and refill and add some frozen bottles of water, ice packs, ice cubes etc and just leave it for an hour while I clean up, drink beer, sanitise the fermenter, etc. If the boil is less efficient at evaporating, or if there is more wort collected, I'd need to chill both pots. This has only happened once.

*Transfer and pitch:* 
When the wort is cool enough, I tip the pot into a fermenter thru a sanitised SS colander (I use whole hops mostly, so this is enough to catch the hops), place my filter bucket into the top of the fermenter and top up to the desired level with water. I take a gravity reading and adjust with more extract if necessary. Adjustments are often necessary because the size of my pots limit the amount of wort I can collect from the mash tun, so a bit is wasted. Once I'm happy with the gravity, I pitch yeast and ferment like any other beer.

*Recipe Formulation:*
When formulating a recipe, or changing someone else's to match my gear, I start with the specialty malts (crystal, choc, cara*, munich, etc) and basically leave them in at full capacity. I then add enough base malt to hit the limit of my tun (ie Specialty + base malt = 3Kg). I plug these numbers into Promash and use Promash to work out how much extract I'll need to hit the target OG. I also use Promash to adjust the hopping rates to match target IBU with the Alpha Acid of my current stock of hops.

I have made some really really good beers this way (and a couple of pretty ordinary ones too).


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## Tseay (27/6/06)

Budding partial and extract brewers may find the following link useful.

http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/extract/pres.pdf


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## DrewCarey82 (27/6/06)

Wonderful info postmodern.

Thanks.


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## AngelTearsOnMyTongue (27/6/06)

Oh! Heey!.

This is really great stuff!

In the past I have kept reading Threads involving AG's and partials and wondering _"Whats that mean?"_ and _"When do you do that?"_ and just plain _"HUH!!!???"_.

Over the past week Ihave read some really informative posts by experienced brewers, outlining methods and terminology in easy to follow lists. I think *berazafi* with his thread on "All Grain Equipment For Under $10" with an OT but very useful list by *Pistol Patch* outlining some of the vessels used and acronyms, and now *Post Modern* has given us this great outline. 
Also *Archie, Voosher, pint of larger, dicko, hupnupnee* etal in "My First partial AG Mash"
I just reckon its great and GOD I CANT WAIT!!!! Just waiting for the window now.

Sorry for those I have missed. There have just been too many. It doesnt mean I havent appreciated it. Its all great.

PostModern, may I get some clarification here. In the Sparging paragraph......



PostModern said:


> *Sparge:*
> I use two large-ish pots for the boil. Towards the end of the mash, I heat up the sparge water (into the high 70's) in the larger of the two pots. When the mash is complete, I run off into a jug and gently pour it back onto the top of the mash until it runs clear, then I run the rest off into the small pot (which can hold all of the first runnings). I then gently add the sparge water, stir, wait a few mins for it to settle, then I recirculate again with the jug until clear, then run off into the large pot until I have collected all of the water.



....does this mean, you return the mash liquor back into the mash tun until all the grains and solids have settled into a bed and the runoff is clear? How clear?

Once it is clear, you then run it off into the kettles / boiling pots? 

Once thats done, you add the sparging water (~70oC) into the Mash tun / Esky and repeat the clearing and runoff process. Correct?



ALSO

I would really like to express my appreciation at the generosity of the experienced brewers with regards to sharing thier knowledge and giving their time (in typing and adding photo's).

If someone or somehow we could combine all this info, it would kick arse and leave "How to Brew" in its dust (IMHO).

Maybe some day we could have a AHB jamboree weekend or something. Have members from around Australia meet up with their contributions and just eat, drink, and be merry.

Now im spouting off but it would be great to coincide it with some little rural horse race meet or something along those line.  

WELL!! We're out of the World Cup now, so I've got some dreaming to spare. (Pitty theres not a WC of brewing....or is there?)

Cheers to you all,

ATOMT


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## Trent (27/6/06)

Thanks to Drewcarey82 for starting up this thread. Full points to you.
ATOMT, as far as sparging goes (apologies in adavnce for typing errors, I have been drink som storng beer from hawaii that the missus bought back on thwe weekend). I think that Po-Mo is referrring to batch sparging in his post, which is probably the best way to start out (providing you have a small esky and manifold like he has). Alternatively, my first few AG's were done as 10L jobs, all I did was drill a hole in a small esky, add a threaded piece of brass, a tap on one end, and some rolled up wire messh on the inside, in a kind of "cigar" shape. Also, I think that it may be better to put the slots on the manifold on the bottom, rather than the top, but I could be wrong. Thats a very nice looking manifold PoMo has otherwise.
Back to my original thought. You want to run the wort out slowly into a jug, and maybe put a tupperware lid on top of the grain bed, and pour onto that, so you dont disturb the grain bed. The whole idea of this is to set the grain so it acts as a filter, and you just get clear (ish) wort out. You will notice on your first litre or so, there are heaps of floaties. After 2-3L there should be less floaties, and it will be alot clearer, and then you can run this into the kettle. The grain bed should be sitting between 72 and 75 (though MANY times I have only had it sitting in the high 60's after mash out). Add sparge water at about 75C or even as high as 78 or so if you have a lower grain bed temp, give it a good stir, and let sit for 10-30 mins, then recirculate as per first runnings, and you will be ready to run that into the kettle. DONT run the wort out quickly, or you may get a stuck run-off, which is a real pain in the freckle. IO also find that after 5 mins or so, there will be a little more wort come out the tap when you open it again, and I can get 0.5-2L extra wort into the boil this way. 
Obviously you will onbly be doing a small mash, and making up the rest of the gravity with DME, but partials really are only a smaller version of AG, so once you are happy with that, you can step it up, or just stay there, as partial has all the benifits of AG, just on a smaller scale. And, the other thing is, you will be surprised at how easy it is. Best of luck with it, to all who try. Hope this helps a little, feel free to PM me if ya want any more info (I will be more sober tomorrow).
All the best
Trent


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## PostModern (27/6/06)

AngelTearsOnMyTongue said:


> ....does this mean, you return the mash liquor back into the mash tun until all the grains and solids have settled into a bed and the runoff is clear? How clear?



How clear? "Clear enough"  Make sure there are no husk parts running thru the hose, and no cloudiness. Should look like a clear finished beer when I'm fussy, or a bit cloudy if I'm not. Generally I'll run thru about 2-3 litres or a touch more. Depends on speed, temp, grain bill, crush, etc.



AngelTearsOnMyTongue said:


> Once it is clear, you then run it off into the kettles / boiling pots?
> 
> Once thats done, you add the sparging water (~70oC) into the Mash tun / Esky and repeat the clearing and runoff process. Correct?



Yes and yes.

As Trent says ^ up there, it is known as batch sparging. Plug that into the search bar and look for some big old threads. It's easier and a little quicker, with only a small cost in efficiency and given that my efficiency is crappy anyway, I do it because it's easier and requires one less pot/tank/vessel. My method is a bit complicated because of the small pots. Its easy to do in any sized kitchen, but it makes the process clumsy. Everyone will adjust their methods around the materials and vessels at hand  Makes for interesting beers.




Trent said:


> I think that it may be better to put the slots on the manifold on the bottom, rather than the top, but I could be wrong.



The pipes are not soldered, so they can be rotated and removed for easy cleaning. Like you, I thought they should be face down and generally always mash that way, but I have brewed on a mate's 30 litre esky with a scaled up version of that manifold, which he uses slots-up and it's fine. High efficiencies and everything, so I don't think it matters that much. I reckon you'd lose something between half and and a quarter of the pipe's thickness in final runnings if they're face up. 

Sipping a porter I brewed on my mate's rig right now, and I have no complaints about the beer, even with the slots up


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## DrewCarey82 (28/6/06)

Guys I'll be doing the recipe for the Pilsener - yeah its simple but I am just kicking off my mashing career, this will be my second.

I plan on using my grain bag all the time - Makes for easier cleaning, this doesnt reduce the efficiency at all does it?

Cheers.


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## PostModern (28/6/06)

It probably will, DC. Depends on a lot of things. Have some extra DME on hand to top up the OG if required.


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## DrewCarey82 (28/6/06)

Would half a kilo do the trick do you reckon?


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## Steve (28/6/06)

Guys i have 500gms of Weyermann Munich Type 2. Could I chuck this into the recipe too? For a more maltier Pilsener? Would it make much of a difference?

1kg LME
3kg Pilsner malt mashed at 65deg
Bitter to 35 IBUs with
60g Saaz @ 60min
25g Saaz @ 20mins
25g Saaz @ 5 mins
Saflager yeast at lager temps.

Cheers
Steve


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## DrewCarey82 (28/6/06)

After I get this downpacked guys.

I am after a recipe for Porter? Any ideas.

Cheers.


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## T.D. (28/6/06)

Steve said:


> Guys i have 500gms of Weyermann Munich Type 2. Could I chuck this into the recipe too? For a more maltier Pilsener? Would it make much of a difference?
> 
> 1kg LME
> 3kg Pilsner malt mashed at 65deg
> ...



I can't see why not. I have never used that malt before but I am guessing its like a dark Munich malt??? 

My stock standard pilsner grain bill is 92% Pils malt, 4% Munich and 4% Carapils. I then just tweak the amounts accordingly if I want a dryer or maltier beer.

If you plan to do more of these why not use just half and save the rest for another brew? 500g will be a tad on the high side, but not necessarily too much.

And a note about this recipe, I just want to reiterate that I just threw this together in two seconds - I have never brewed it or even had a decent look at it in Beersmith. I would make sure all the estimated gravities/colour/IBU etc are what you are after. A lot of those quantities are based on guesses from experience.

If I get some time I'll run it through beertools and post it here, but again, there are so many variables that will potentially affect your results (like efficiency, alpha of your hops, exact boil volume and gravity etc etc). I doubt the recipe will be too far off the mark though - certainly a good start.


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## DrewCarey82 (28/6/06)

Hahaha I've already committed to the ingredients, Gerard of Northern brewings dropping off today so I hopes they are right


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## Steve (28/6/06)

Thanks TD - I trust your judgement. I'll just throw it in and see what happens. Might give the munich a miss though as I worked out I dont think my boil pot (19litre) is going to be big enough?
If I mash with 2.5 litres per 1kg - that makes 7.5litre in the mash pot.
If I sparge with another 2.5 litres per 1kg that makes = 18.75 litres!
I have another 12 litre pot so I guess I could do a split boil in the two pots?
Thoughts?
Cheers
Steve

P.S. I cant get promash here at work. But am going to have a look at beer alchemy at home as I have a MAC.


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## T.D. (28/6/06)

Here it is with 250g of dark munich and 2.75kg of pils. I have no idea what sort of efficiency you guys might get - 75% might be a tad on the high side, so like PoMo said, having a bit of DME on hand might be a good idea.

Looks pretty good I reckon...



BeerTools.com Recipe Results E-mail

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pils Partial Mash
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

General
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Category: Pilsner
Subcategory: Bohemian Pilsener
Recipe Type: Partial Mash
Batch Size: 20 liters
Volume Boiled: 15 liters
Mash Efficiency: 75 %
Total Grain/Extract: 4.00 kg.
Total Hops: 100.0 g.
Calories (12 fl. oz.): 188.8
Cost to Brew: $28.17 (USD)
Cost per Bottle (12 fl. oz.): $0.50 (USD)

Ingredients
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.75 kg. Australian Pilsner
0.25 kg. German Dark Munich
1 kg. Liquid Light Extract
60 g. Czech Saaz (Pellets, 3.5 %AA) boiled 60 minutes.
20 g. Czech Saaz (Pellets, 3.5 %AA) boiled 20 minutes.
20 g. Czech Saaz (Pellets, 3.5 %AA) boiled 5 minutes.
Yeast: DCL Yeast Saflager S-23 Genuine Lager Yeast

Notes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------


Vital Statistics
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Original Gravity: 1.048
Terminal Gravity: 1.014
Color: 4.17 SRM
Bitterness: 34.3 IBU
Alcohol (%volume): 4.4 %

--
Results prepared by BeerTools.com
http://www.beertools.com/


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## Steve (28/6/06)

How does it get a boil size of 15litres? Have a look at my previous post as I worked out 18.75litres?
Hey TD - thanks very much for this by the way!
Steve


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## T.D. (28/6/06)

I entered that manually - just sparge with as much water as you need to achieve 15L of collected wort in total. You will need some headspace in your pot - 18L will be too close to the brim. 15L should be ok though - just make sure you keep an eye on it!!  

3kg @ 3:1 = 9L of mash water
Since the grain will absorb some liquid (usually around 1L per kilo of grain), you will only collect around 6L of wort from the first runnings
Sparge with an additional 9L of water to achieve boil volume of 15L.

Basically just keep sparging until you hit 15L and then stop.


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## DrewCarey82 (28/6/06)

Cooling the wort after all the boil.

What do you guys recommend to get it into the temp rang of 10-14?

Cheers.


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## T.D. (28/6/06)

The old "pot in the laundry sink full of water" method would be the best at this stage. Just make sure you have plenty of ice on hand to get it down to lager temps...


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## crozdog (28/6/06)

DrewCarey

Did someone say "No Chill"? h34r:    

Crozdog


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## DrewCarey82 (28/6/06)

Trip to the servo is on the cards then


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## T.D. (28/6/06)

Depends if you want to ferment that day or not.

I must say, sticking the hot wort in a 15L (ESB wort kit) cube and leaving it overnight would be the way would do it if it was me. That way you can also throw it in the fridge for a few hours prior to pitching and get the temps down to lager temps.


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## Steve (28/6/06)

Sensational TD - thanks for that.
Drew - I put the pot in a sink of cold water - and keep refilling sink when it gets warm. You could also guy a couple of bottles of plain water the day before, chill them and pour this into the pot. Leave it for half an hour then pour into the fermenter.
Cheers
Steve


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## DrewCarey82 (28/6/06)

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm....... Food for thought.

Steve PM me your email addy, Ross just sent me an excellent guide for partial mashing via email and I'll send it onto you.

Cheers.


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## Bizarre (8/7/06)

Hey guys, I've been meaning to post this for a while now but I've been pretty busy of late. This is a recipe I recently did that came out very nice indeed - I wanted to make a "Euro" lager along the same lines as either Stella or Heineken. I looked at a few other recipes, used 'em as a starting point and concocted this in Promash.

Batch Size (L): 23.00 Wort Size (L): 23.00
Total Grain (kg): 4.61
Anticipated OG: 1.047 Plato: 11.61
Anticipated SRM: 4.4
Anticipated IBU: 26.1
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Coarse Grind As Is.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
36.9 1.70 kg. Muntons LME - Extra Light England 80.07 3
32.5 1.50 kg. Pilsner Australia 76.48 1
8.7 0.40 kg. CaraPilsner France 71.27 10
21.9 1.01 kg. Vienna Malt Germany 75.43 3

Potential represented as Yield, Coarse Grind As Is.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
26.00 g. Perle Pellet 8.25 15.6 30 min.
5.00 g. Czech Saaz Pellet 3.50 0.0 Dry Hop
27.00 g. Hallertau Northern Brewer Pellet 8.50 8.7 15 min.
20.00 g. Czech Saaz Pellet 3.50 1.7 5 min.


Yeast
-----

Yeast Lab L31 Pilsner Lager - W34/70

If this looks complicated it was just 1.5kg of pilsner malt, 1Kg of Vienna malt and 400g of Carapilsner mashed at 65C for an hour and a half in 9 litres of water (I did a multistep mash - in practice for AG batches - but you dont need to do this). Sparge the grains (in a grain bag) with about 5 or 6 litres of water at about 80c (if you cant boil this volume you could always rinse the grains a few times with a kettle full or 3 of boiled - not boiling - water).

Boil this wort for 60 mins - after 30 mins of boil time throw in the Perle hops - after another 15 mins throw in the Hallartauer - after another 10 mins throw in the first lot of Saaz and at flame out throw in the last lot of Saaz. 

Cool the wort (laundry tub full of water and ice is good if you dont have chillers etc). 

Put the LME in the fermenter (sanitised of course) and mix with a kettle of water, strain the wort into the fermenter through a sterilised sieve, top up to 23L with cold or chilled water. Pitch your yeast (i rehydrate yeast or use a liquid yeast - but again you dont have to if you dont want to) when your temp is about 19/20C - once the yeast has a hold and is producing gas I reduced the temp (read - stuck it in a cold room - hehehe) to about 12C. 

This turned out very nice indeed - even the missus loves it - which is unusual. The only thing I thought I might change next time is make it a bit more hoppy possibly - this recipe gave me about 26 IBUs, I thought I might up it to about 35 and see what its like. 

Hope somebody finds this useful


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## Timmo (3/8/06)

Gday all

Thought id bump this topic instead of starting a new one.
Im after a partial recipe for an Australian Pale Ale, so if any fellow brewers have a recipe id be glad to know B) 

Cheers

Tim


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## James Squire (3/8/06)

James Squire said:


> Couple of Kilo's unhopped extract
> 1 Kg Pils malt
> 0.5 Kg Wheat malt
> 0.2 Kg med Crystal
> ...



This is the brew im drinking at the mo'. Mashed @65ish degrees to dry it out.

Next time I'll probably culture up some Coopers yeast to use...

Cheers,

JS

PS. Oops, almost forgot... It drinks quite nicely! Maybe a touch more Hallertau needed for my taste, however it fits the Aussie PA style well.


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## Timmo (3/8/06)

great stuff!

thx for the reply


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