# Wiring A Fridgemate



## fraser_john (8/5/09)

Just put my Fridgemate in a case and figured I'd document it for others.

Note that I am NOT an electrician and this is just how I did it, I take no responsibility for any other installation effort. 

View attachment Microsoft_Word___Wiring_a_Fridgemate.pdf


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## benno1973 (8/5/09)

Nice one! Wish I'd had this 2 weeks ago when I wired mine up!


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## Sammus (8/5/09)

Awesome write up, if I didn't know exactly how to do it already, it would help a lot


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## Frag_Dog (8/5/09)

Just my 2c....


When I wired my TempMate up I used a computer/kettle cord and adapter for the connection to mains, and a flush mounted power point for the fridge (and heat) to connect to. The temp probe was done using an RCA connector. That way there are no cords hanging out of the box. Pretty much just as 'Real Beer' did his

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...26500&st=40

Still a good write up that I'm sure heaps of people will find handy.

(I'm not an electrician either...)


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## jonocarroll (8/5/09)

Seems like you've taken the same wiring route that I did for my TempMate. The terminal block really helps IMO.

A few points though;

Your pictures look, well, terrible - have you enlarged small pictures, because they're coming out horribly pixellated for me.
Your document lacks a wiring diagram, and considering the pictures are hard to see, it's pretty tricky to track which wire is going where. Lots of wiring diagrams are posted in the above thread, and they are clear and easy to follow.
How did you cut the hole in the jiffy box? Some suggestions might help. I had a helluva time cutting the face plate for my TempMate, and would recommend doing it differently to how I did.
You need a good picture of the screws holding the wires in place. This needs to be done properly otherwise you're likely to stuff up something dangerously.
An old extension cord should already have two ends - male and female... why did you use a bare piece of wire? Cutting an extension cord into two will give you the electrical wire you need without the risk of wiring your own plug/socket.
As for the concept in general, surely there's enough info on the forum to do this properly. If there's not, then you should be leaving it to an electrician. Sorry if that bursts your bubble, but I'm being honest.


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## fraser_john (8/5/09)

QuantumBrewer said:


> Seems like you've taken the same wiring route that I did for my TempMate. The terminal block really helps IMO.
> 
> A few points though;
> 
> Your pictures look, well, terrible - have you enlarged small pictures, because they're coming out horribly pixellated for me.





Yeah, odd that, its actually because they are resized down so much! I probably should have just kept them a larger size rather than try get them small enough to work in a document.

I did not bother with a wiring diagram as one comes with the Fridgemate and my wiring basically followed that.

I had a shiite time cutting out the opening as well! I ended up using my dremmel tool, but by crikey the plastic they use sure smells noxious whilst its melting! Probably a small hacksaw blade would be better???

John


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## Beejay (8/5/09)

I must say that I used the following for mine and found it to be quite good also

http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29

Nice effort though this one


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## Carboy (8/5/09)

fraser_john said:


> Just put my Fridgemate in a case and figured I'd document it for others.
> 
> Note that I am NOT an electrician and this is just how I did it, I take no responsibility for any other installation effort.



Hi fraser_john, 

Great stuff, this is the first time I full understand how to wire a Fridgemate, I've been reluctant to buy one, but now thanks to you Ross will get another sale. :super: 

Cheers
Carboy


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## jonocarroll (8/5/09)

fraser_john said:


> I had a shiite time cutting out the opening as well! I ended up using my dremmel tool, but by crikey the plastic they use sure smells noxious whilst its melting! Probably a small hacksaw blade would be better???


I bought my dremmel (knock off) just after I cut this - partly because I never wanted to have to cut like that again. I used a drill to put a pilot hole in, then used a hacksaw to cut around, but didn't get it quite right and had to file the rest back. Damn that took forever - reasonably hard plastic made it a pain, plus the smell really got up my nose with the filings. Grrr.


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## bradsbrew (9/5/09)

Thanks Fraser john this was great timing as I only recieved my fridgemate on thurs and your post helped me heaps its good to have something visual to triple check that I was reading the wiring plan right.

Its now set up in its box and am just getting the tucker box up to temp so I can get a fermenter in there. 


The other links helped as well guys.

Brad


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## Rob C (9/5/09)

How about leave it and get an electrician to wire it up and not rink the chance of hurting someone.

Rob


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## bum (10/5/09)

I reckon if you're feeling confident enough that you can do it then you probably can. I would let a supervised child build one of these. Not that dangerous.



Beejay said:


> I must say that I used the following for mine and found it to be quite good also
> 
> http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29



Yeah, I used this when I built mine and it was extremely helpful.


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## hazard (12/5/09)

bum said:


> I reckon if you're feeling confident enough that you can do it then you probably can. I would let a supervised child build one of these. Not that dangerous.



I just got my son to wire up my new fridgemate, its got down to 14 deg in my brew room and i need to warm up the fermenter.

Question - where do people place the probe?


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## Ross (12/5/09)

hazard said:


> I just got my son to wire up my new fridgemate, its got down to 14 deg in my brew room and i need to warm up the fermenter.
> 
> Question - where do people place the probe?




Beer Out Diptube from a keg - silicon or glue up the end & crimp flat with pliers - Insert diptube through airlock grommet & then feed probe down the diptube to be immersed in the beer.

cheap, simple & highly effective ....otherwise, just tape on outside of fermenter with a bit of foam over it.

cheers Ross


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## Verbyla (12/5/09)

Yeah iv heard that if you tape it to the fermenter and then place foam over it, that it stays within about 1 degree of the wort temperature or just do what ross said to do above


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## Gavo (12/5/09)

Ross said:


> just tape on outside of fermenter with a bit of foam over it.



That's what I do. Gotta love the tempmate, getting down to single digits overnight now and the Ales are sitting on a toasty 18 degrees C.

Cheers to a great product.
Gavo.


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## Rob C (12/5/09)

Ross said:


> otherwise, just tape on outside of fermenter with a bit of foam over it.
> 
> cheers Ross



Ross lets say if the temp was set to 18C with the temp differential the temp of the fermenting beer would vary between 16 - 20C will this have a big effect on the beer its self?

Cheers
Rob


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## Mayo (13/5/09)

If you don't have a drill, or any tools for that matter, how do you put holes in this 'box' and cut a rectangle? Scissors surely wont do the job i wouldnt think.

Where did you get the box from?


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## Sammus (13/5/09)

Mayo said:


> If you don't have a drill, or any tools for that matter, how do you put holes in this 'box' and cut a rectangle? Scissors surely wont do the job i wouldnt think.
> 
> Where did you get the box from?



You get some tools somehow.

That's like asking "if I don't have a lisence, or a car, or any kind of motor vehicle for that matter, how can I drive myself around?"

Jaycar have a huge selection of project boxes for this kind of thing.


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## skippy (13/5/09)

dont get sparked, ken.


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## reviled (13/5/09)

Ross said:


> otherwise, just tape on outside of fermenter with a bit of foam over it.



This is what I do! I also nochill in my kettle overnight, then put the kettle in the chest freezer with the probe attached to bring down to pitching temp, works a treat allthough through the stainless steel there is about a 5 degree temp difference :icon_cheers:


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## bum (13/5/09)

Mayo said:


> If you don't have a drill, or any tools for that matter, how do you put holes in this 'box' and cut a rectangle? Scissors surely wont do the job i wouldnt think/



Huge PITA but a stanley knife will make all the openings required if you must resort to that.


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## Verbyla (13/5/09)

> If you don't have a drill, or any tools for that matter, how do you put holes in this 'box' and cut a rectangle? Scissors surely wont do the job i wouldnt think.
> 
> Where did you get the box from?



Yeah can get the boxes from jarcar. The cheapest boxes are the black ones but i still think they were the best ones to use out of the lot. They are made of a thin but strong plastic so they should be ideal for you as don't have the correct tools. 

As for tools i think you will need to go out n by a small hack blade from Bunnings, they can be a few dollars or a stanley knife. I'd still strongly suggest you ask around to find someone that can lend you the proper tools as its going to be something you'll have for a while and you don't wana be disappointed in you workmanship everytime you see it.


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## Beejay (13/5/09)

Ross said:


> just tape on outside of fermenter with a bit of foam over it.



I did a quick check on my last fermentation to see how accurate affixing the probe via a large piece of bluetack (to cover the whole probe) is in measuring the inner temp of the fermenting wort. I admit that I only checked it during the second day of fermentation, but using a digital thermometer I was please to see that the internal temp was 18C, and the Fridgemate was also reading a temp of 18C. So I am happy to continue using bluetack on the outside of the fermenter now. I also like this as there is less chance of introducing nasties through introduction of a probe or other into the fermenter (even though I am fastidious with cleanliness).


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## Phoney (30/6/09)

*bump*



Verbyla said:


> Yeah can get the boxes from jarcar. The cheapest boxes are the black ones but i still think they were the best ones to use out of the lot. They are made of a thin but strong plastic so they should be ideal for you as don't have the correct tools.
> 
> As for tools i think you will need to go out n by a small hack blade from Bunnings, they can be a few dollars or a stanley knife. I'd still strongly suggest you ask around to find someone that can lend you the proper tools as its going to be something you'll have for a while and you don't wana be disappointed in you workmanship everytime you see it.




What are the proper tools?

I have a cordless drill to cut the holes for the cables, that's no drama, but what would be the best tool to cut out a rectangle for the face of the tempmate?

Cheers.


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## schooey (30/6/09)

I use a cheapo Ozito dremel like thing I bought from Bunnings with a little cotting disc on it. Works a treat...


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## jonocarroll (30/6/09)

phoneyhuh said:


> What are the proper tools?
> 
> I have a cordless drill to cut the holes for the cables, that's no drama, but what would be the best tool to cut out a rectangle for the face of the tempmate?


There were suggestions in the post you quoted. I did mine with a hacksaw and a file. Not the best method I'm sure. As for the best... If I had to do it again I would do the same as schooey;



schooey said:


> I use a cheapo Ozito dremel like thing I bought from Bunnings with a little cotting disc on it. Works a treat...


I've now got the same tool, and I'd imagine it would do a great job.


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## Phoney (30/6/09)

QuantumBrewer said:


> There were suggestions in the post you quoted. I did mine with a hacksaw and a file. Not the best method I'm sure. As for the best... If I had to do it again I would do the same as schooey;
> 
> 
> I've now got the same tool, and I'd imagine it would do a great job.



The post I qutoed suggested 'not' the proper tools.  

Thanks heaps guys, ive just found a cheapish dremel on ebay....


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## Phoney (30/6/09)

One more question.

Assuming you place the tempmate on top of the fridge, how do you run the two cables (power cable for heat belt and sensor cable) into the fridge? ie: How is it possible to maintain a good seal on the fridge door without drilling a big hole in it?


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## jonocarroll (30/6/09)

phoneyhuh said:


> One more question.
> 
> Assuming you place the tempmate on top of the fridge, how do you run the two cables (power cable for heat belt and sensor cable) into the fridge? ie: How is it possible to maintain a good seal on the fridge door without drilling a big hole in it?


I just run them past the seals. It helps a little if you tape the wires to the fridge to make sure they're as close as possible, but you shouldn't break the seal too badly like this.


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## Phoney (30/6/09)

TYVM


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## shonks69 (9/7/09)

Hey All

Is anyone controlling their fermenting fridge with 2 x fridgemate temp controllers i.e. one to control heating & one to control cooling, I would be interested to know how they behave together as to how tight a temp range can be set between the 2 controllers before they start hunting.

Cheers
Shonks
:icon_vomit:


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## schooey (9/7/09)

Two fridgemates will cost you over $100 delivered, you can buy a tempmate for around $75 or something that will do exactly what you want..

Check out the sponsors in the page header...


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## shonks69 (9/7/09)

schooey said:


> Two fridgemates will cost you over $100 delivered, you can buy a tempmate for around $75 or something that will do exactly what you want..
> 
> Check out the sponsors in the page header...




Cheers Schoony

I have just finished building a Tempmaster from Jaycar - Not Impressed !!! I was going to wire an aircon thermostat to the fridge thermostat with a toggle switch to select between the two thermostats for heating & cooling temps and use the Tempmaster for heating.
I then discovered the Fridgemate but now thanks to you & reading the forum properly the Tempmate looks like the real deal.
Do you know if anyone in Perth stocks them?

Cheers
Shonks
:icon_cheers:


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## capretta (3/12/10)

ZOMBIE THREAD< RISE FROM THE GRAVE!
 
hey all, my fridge thermostat crapped itself and i finally joined the rest of the world and got a fridgemate. My electrician has not got to much experience with 240v but has made a bunch of circuit boards etc, just wondering if you can see any glaring errors before i plug it in..
cheers all!


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## jonocarroll (3/12/10)

Can't see much of anything there. 2d photo /= depth perception.

If they all plug into the same point, then you're screwed, otherwise I'd need a better picture to tell.


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## SpillsMostOfIt (3/12/10)

capretta said:


> ZOMBIE THREAD< RISE FROM THE GRAVE!
> 
> hey all, my fridge thermostat crapped itself and i finally joined the rest of the world and got a fridgemate. My electrician has not got to much experience with 240v but has made a bunch of circuit boards etc, just wondering if you can see any glaring errors before i plug it in..
> cheers all!
> View attachment 42546



You may wish to consider putting a cable tie or something on all the 240V cables going in and out of the case. The cable glands you've used are for weather-proofing, not strain-relief. Without proper strain relief, there is a possibility that, as the thing falls off the top of the fridge, or you kick the cable, or some other unlikely situation, the cord will come out and you will have a 240V-powered cobra dancing around you.


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## capretta (3/12/10)

criticism accepted, does this help? cross your eyes slightly and you will get a 3d image.


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## capretta (3/12/10)

SpillsMostOfIt said:


> You may wish to consider putting a cable tie or something on all the 240V cables going in and out of the case..


good idea, thanks, i bought some cable ties but completely forgot.. thanks


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## Silo Ted (3/12/10)

capretta said:


> criticism accepted, does this help? cross your eyes slightly and you will get a 3d image.



LOL, you trying for some old school stereoscopic ? I thought that only worked with magic goggles.


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## capretta (3/12/10)

no goggles needed! if you guys had a nude chick section you would be in trouble!


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## rude (3/12/10)

Hey All

Is anyone controlling their fermenting fridge with 2 x fridgemate temp controllers i.e. one to control heating & one to control cooling, I would be interested to know how they behave together as to how tight a temp range can be set between the 2 controllers before they start hunting.

Cheers
Shonk

Im surprised at this thread because there has been heaps about the stc 1000 controller $37 delivered to youre door on this forum 

It heats & cools 10amps 

I think its a beauty sorry sponsors but thats life


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## brettprevans (3/12/10)

capretta said:


> no goggles needed! if you guys had a nude chick section you would be in trouble!


They do have issues. I put something up in off topic and they were more interested in internet troll


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## brettprevans (3/12/10)

rude said:


> Hey All
> 
> Is anyone controlling their fermenting fridge with 2 x fridgemate temp controllers i.e. one to control heating & one to control cooling, I would be interested to know how they behave together as to how tight a temp range can be set between the 2 controllers before they start hunting.
> 
> ...


sorry man ur post makes no sense. Why run a cooling device ie fridge with a 2nd controller for heating? Fridges only having cooling mechanisms not heating. And for 40 bucks I've prefer I fully warranty tempmate which can handle 20Amp.


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## Nevalicious (3/12/10)

You can run a fridgemate to both heat and cool a fridge. I bought one, without thinking how am I going to heat the fridge during winter... 

I just connected the output of the fridgemate through a 3 position switch to switch between cooling and heating, 3rd position being output off. This was my work around anywho... Just adjust the settings to heat or cool as needed!

FWIW I also run the output to operate coils of small 240v contactors only, to preserve the fridgemate internal contacts (personally dont trust where it says able to handle 10A switching) Fridges run compressors/motors which have high inductive load and wreak havoc on tiny contacts. With a fridge turning on and off heaps of times in a day, IMO they may burn out quicker. Just a safety measure. Power side is then paralleled up through a few contacts and feeds load. 

My shitty 2c

Tyler


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## Cocko (3/12/10)

http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29

Was good for me.


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## brettprevans (3/12/10)

Nevalicious said:


> You can run a fridgemate to both heat and cool a fridge. I bought one, without thinking how am I going to heat the fridge during winter...
> 
> I just connected the output of the fridgemate through a 3 position switch to switch between cooling and heating, 3rd position being output off. This was my work around anywho... Just adjust the settings to heat or cool as needed!
> 
> ...


Ok again. Fridges don't have a heating element so hooking it up to heat is fkn useless unless u add a heating source. If u want to have a higher temp then either increase min temp or add a heat source. A fridge can only heat through ambient temp increases to hooking up to a temp controller seat for heat is useless.


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## browndog (4/12/10)

get a Tempmate from Craftbrewer, it does cooling and heating.


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## Nevalicious (4/12/10)

citymorgue2 said:


> Fridges don't have a heating element so hooking it up to heat is fkn useless unless u add a heating source



True, I forgot to add in my post that I like most people out there that run a fermentation fridge, have a globe hooked up as a heating source. Some use heat pads or the like, I use a globe. Works just fine!

Cheers


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## brettprevans (4/12/10)

Ok that makes sense

like most people huh? you'll probably find that most people use a fermentation fridge for lagers or keeping ales cooler in hot temps. Not as a heating device. That's what's I use fermentation fridge for. A heat belt or pad in winter sure but not in my fridge. 

Whatever works for u. 

I think the op has been answered


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## TBird (4/12/10)

browndog said:


> get a Tempmate from Craftbrewer, it does cooling and heating.



Yep me too. I bought mine from Ross. I 've wired up a heat belt and placed that in the fridge. The tempmate controls both heating and cooling so I can set my temperature from 1.0c up to 22.0c.

Can't recommend the tempate highly enough.

Cheers


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## matho (4/12/10)

capretta,
the wiring looks fine assuming its a 3 way terminal block that the power cord is wired into.
the earth and neutural are continuous, the active and neutural is going to the supply input and the active is being switched.

cheers matho


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## capretta (4/12/10)

thanks matho, yep a 3 way terminal block. plugged it in and she works sweet.. its a nice investment.


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## pcmfisher (4/12/10)

capretta said:


> My electrician has not got to much experience with 240v



:huh: :huh:


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## Nevalicious (4/12/10)

pcmfisher said:


> :huh: :huh:



I thought the same hey??


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## goomboogo (4/12/10)

Nevalicious said:


> I thought the same hey??



He might be an auto electrician.


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## rude (4/12/10)

Sorry citymorgue2 I was just trying to highlight the fact that the st1000 is a good temp controller for heating & cooling at a good price

There has been a thread on it so thats where I got the idea for mine

I use the heating side of things in winter for my ales using a 50watt electric cubicle heater works a treat same as my esky mash tun holds the heat

I might have confused things with the way I copied & pasted as Im not the best on the computer skills

Sorry for the no sense


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## QldKev (4/12/10)

capretta said:


> thanks matho, yep a 3 way terminal block. plugged it in and she works sweet.. its a nice investment.
> View attachment 42561



Remove that post from this forum!

and find one without her top on  

QldKev


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## capretta (5/12/10)

pcmfisher said:


> :huh: :huh:



the "electrician" is me..


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## pcmfisher (6/12/10)

capretta said:


> the "electrician" is me..




Ahh, I missed that one


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## StonedSidney (12/1/11)

I have just installed a Fridgemate following the excellent instructions in this thread - all very easy, thanks to everyone who contributed here. Now I can brew through summer - even lager (like I can be bothered waiting for lager).

I also feel I should compliment Mashmasters (http://www.mashmaster.com/p/365439/fridgemate-mkii-digital-temperature-controller-kit.html) for very speedy delivery and inclusion of a free bottle opener.

Without doubt the most difficult thing was cutting the hole in the enclosure box; I used a drill (many holes), junior hacksaw and a file.


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## Logman (1/3/11)

Thanks *fraser_john* - just put my Fridgemate from CraftBrewer together. Tutorial was excellent :beerbang:


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## Nick JD (1/3/11)

Does the box need to allow for the unit to keep cool? 

Can the box be completely sealed? Or will that result in the unit overheating or a relay popping?


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## stm (1/3/11)

Instead of fiddling around with plugs and sockets and wires, just buy a cheap extension cord and cut through the cable closeish to the socket end and strip back the (now) two sets of wires for termination in the fridgemate. Otherwise a very good guide.


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## flano (2/3/11)

So what happens if you have a fridge that also has a freezer?

It only has one power chord..If I bumped the fridgemate to 18 deg will the freezer stuff melt?


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## capretta (2/3/11)

yes unfortunatly unless you have one of those rare fridges with 2 power cords, (one for the freezer, and one for the fridge) the freezer potion will be switched on and off at exactly the same time as the fridge. Fridgemate works essentially by switching the mains power on and off.


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