# Best way to Clean and Sanitise Bottles



## beatbreaker (17/3/13)

n00b brewer here, I've decided to move from plastic bottles to 330ml glass bottles, I've tried doing glass partially for the last 2 brews and things turned out fine with them so I'm ready to take glass on fully.

So what I've got a problem with currently:

My bottling process takes FOREVER, I currently: Clean all bottles in a tub (with bottle brush and Morgans LowSuds), then sanitise all bottles, then bottle. - *I need to reduce this time*
I currently don't know what to clean/sanatise with. The kit I got came with the "Morgans" cleaner and sanatiser, but I want to find *cheap and easy alternatives*. - I'm looking at using "sodium metabisulphite" but I'm curious of this Stericlean stuff is. - I'm a BIG fan of these "no rinse" solutions.
All the bottles I've got still have their *labels* on them, I want to rid of them while I'm cleaning - Happy to leave them in a sodium metabisulphite solutoin overnight.
So my current solutions for this:

Buy a bottling tree (70+ bottles)
Get a bottle rinser 
Buy a stack of sodium metabisulphite
I'm hoping that the bottle tree and rinser will speed up the cleaning of the bottles, and the sodium metabisulphite will offer a good clean, cheap alternate to what I'm currently using. I'm sure a good overnight soak will be rid of the old labels also.

What do you guys think of this process? Is there any way I can get this done better/faster/cheaper?


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## Bizier (17/3/13)

You want to do some kind of alkaline cleaning process and ideally a no-rinse sanitation process (iodophor, phosphoric acid, hydrogen peroxide based products), or you could also use heat. I would always recommend having one of these sanitisers to make sure everything in the area and stuff like bottle tree, taps, bottling valves etc can be sanitised and re-sanitised.

Sodium metabisulphite is a sub-standard chemical for your requirements. It has a place in the world, but this is not it.

The easiest thing would be ensuring that bottles are very clean as you drink them, storing covered from dust and just hitting with iodophor when you want to use them. It is cheap and effective.


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## seamad (17/3/13)

Better/faster = kegs :lol:

When I did bottle always rinsed with hot tap water a couple of times and drained, leave upside down and just before filling give them a rinse with starsan.
With dirty bottles give them a soak in cleaning soda ( about $1/bag ) for 24hrs, rinse ( watch out as very slippery) then store upside down as above.


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## barls (17/3/13)

sodium percarbonate is what you want to clean not metabisulfate.
id stay away from metabisulfate as some people have serious reactions to it. it works by releasing a gas thats what kills the nasties. mainly used in wine and cider production.


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## warra48 (17/3/13)

The latest recent bottles I acquired from around my golf club bins were all placed into a plastic milk crate.
They were then hit with the Gerni. The very strong stream of water is strong enough to dislodge pretty much all caked on dirt inside the bottles.
Rinsed with water and drained, and left to dry.
Prior to use, all I do is to give them a quick rinse with StarSan to sanitise.
Easy, and no hard scrubbing required.

I mostly use longnecks. Only do two or three PETs and stubbies for give aways.


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## carniebrew (17/3/13)

Every time you drink a beer, make sure you rinse the bottle with hot water, then hang it on your bottle tree. It's ok to leave bottles a couple of hours before doing this, but don't leave them all day or overnight.

When I say rinse, just put maybe 50ml of hot water in the stubby, swirl hard (to dislodge the yeast) then tip it out...refill with maybe 100ml of very hot tap water, turn the bottle upside down and shake like shit as it drains into the sink. If you look in the empty bottle you should see nothing but some drops of water. If there's any clumps of anything then you'll need a soak with detergent, sodium perc or whatever you use to clean bottles. If the bottle looks clean and smells clean, hang it on your bottle tree. The next day, put it away in a closed box (you can even loosely cap them with some old bent crown seals to keep any dust out).

Then on bottling day, your bottles don't need cleaning, just sanitising. I break out however many bottles I need and sit 'em next to my bottling tree. 1/3rd fill the bottle washer attachment on top of the tree with starsan (which I reuse for months so it basically costs nothing). Pick up a stubby, give it a single hard squirt on your bottle washer, and hang it on the tree. Repeat for every bottle, and they're ready to go. I've also taken to dipping the neck of the bottle into the starsan foam just before I pop it on the tree...just to make sure the outside of the opening is sanitised...but not sure this is completely necessary.

I've got a few mates who used to give each bottle 3 or 4 squirts, I've converted them all to a single squirt. Saves heaps of time, and we haven't had an infected bottle yet, Starsan is just that good...and a 500ml bottle should last years. I mix up 3 litres of it in an old woolies juice bottle, and another 500ml in a spray bottle, they do me for all my home brew sanitising needs.


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## Rowy (17/3/13)

At tip with Starsan is to use demineralised water if your going to keep it mixed for any length of time. I was given this advice by Anthony from CB. Apparently it reacts with stuff in normal tap water and loses its efficiency. You will note it goes a bit cloudy in tap water. That is it reacting. In demineralised water it doesn't do this. I buy a 5litre bottle for about $2.50 from woolies and then squirt 7.5mls into it and shake. Got a heap on hand any time then.


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## Econwatson (17/3/13)

Regarding taking the labels off, I just stuck mine in the dishwasher. Lot's of them fell off and the others just peeled off. I then used a soft metal pot scrubber to get rid of any additional gunk still left on.

My sanitising regime is to fill a 330 bottle about half full with my diluted sanitiser of choice. Give it a good shaking with my hand over the top, use a funnel to pour the sanitising solution into the next bottle, and continue. Once you get a routine going, it doesn't take long at all.

But to be honest, the label process only has to be done once. It's a real pain, but when you're done you have beautiful looking brown bottles to stick your beer in and fret about exploding all the time!

No matter how well I sanitise, I live in constant fear of bottle bombs! I think I need to see a psychologist, who can diagnose a term for it. Maybe Bottlebomophobia or Gusher Syndrome would be suitable names!


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## givemeamash (17/3/13)

use tallies not 330 ml, then when you get sick of that kegs...


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## philmud (17/3/13)

givemeamash said:


> use tallies not 330 ml, then when you get sick of that kegs...


+1 - reduce the number of bottles by using larger bottles!


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## homebrewkid (17/3/13)

was going to start a new thread for this but...........
i made a bottle washer years ago for cleaning the yeast layer out of a bottle in about 2 seconds and plan on making some to sell if there is any interest
i will be looking at costing them in the next few days
will start a new thread then

Cheers: HBK


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## beatbreaker (17/3/13)

Hey guys thanks for the answers.
@carniebrew - That was a great answer really helping me make do with what I've got, no need to go out and buy a ton of new equipment, just a good straightforward method. I've ordered a bottle of starsan and will be getting a bottle tree, rinser soon also.

@Rowy - I've heard many mixed reports on this already, I've even watched  doing a PH test on cloudy VS non cloudy solutions, and he believes it's fine. That said I've got distilled water around to be more sure.

Thanks all the guys for the advice. I'm not getting any kegging equipment in the near future so simple inexpensive solutions are appreciated.

Does anyone know if things like these are available in Australia? @homebrewkid I'll keep an eye out also.


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## homebrewkid (17/3/13)

Does anyone know if things like these are available in Australia?



yeah last i looked they were about 45 dollars made of brass though never seen a plastic one
thats why i made my own bottle washer


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## 431neb (17/3/13)

I use one of these buggers to clean my stubbies with hot water. Getting onto them early is crucial as already noted. I lose confidence in my sanitation regime if I have to clean bottles with that mouldy shit that grows on the yeast krud or if (WORSE!) it has dried out krud. 

Basically.

1. Drink beer / empty bottle.
2. Hot water via brass bottle washer attachment and leave them lying around all over my shed in very haphazard fashion.
3. (On bottle day) Collect 60 bottles from random hiding places all over the shed (and that stash that I forgot to clean under the sink in the house).
Sodium perc each one via bottle squirty thingy (the purple plastic jigger not the brass one) and onto sanitised bottle tree.
5. Hot water through brass bottle washer and then immediately onto the no rinse sanitiser (not sodium perc) via the purple squirter (No crude jokes at this point).
6. Fill Bottles with the finest drink ever created (the best evidence I have that there is a God).
7. Repeat.


I think that the beer joint on Eskay Rd in Oakleigh (Vic) sells the brass washery thingy. Watch out for that bastard though because the f**ker can get stuck and hose one in the chest with bloody hot water. Don't laugh at you mate when it happens cos it pisses him off. Worst of all don't duck out of the way when it happens to you or it will hose down your garage door opener and piss YOU off. Trust me.... Friggin' thing is still playing up....

Some tips. Crank the heat in your Hot Water Service to maximum but be careful (especially if you have kids). Temprites (and similar) would reduce the effectiveness of this method significantly IMO. I have a dedicated HWS in the shed with no such safety devices (I have burn marks on my chest to prove it - just kidding that's my brew day buddy - ROFL!!

Bottle into 1.5 l champagne bottles and save some time. I only had one bottle officer honest!

PS Duck tape won't hold champagne corks in unless you use a shitload of it.

PPS Yes it is DUCK tape not DUCT tape even though it get's used for ducts. 3M invented it for wartime use and it had to work in water so they named it duck tape. Quack, quack!


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## Black Devil Dog (17/3/13)

The sink in that photo, did you just slaughter an animal in there?

That looks ******* septic, you need biohazard controls, not some piss arse bottle washer.............


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## bullsneck (17/3/13)

I usually wait until I have roughly 20 500mL bottles (love those Euro style bottles) and soak them as I am soaking a used fermenter with Sodium Perc. A good rinse then onto the dish rack to drain.
Later I 'cap' them with a little bit of foil and chuck them in a COLD oven. Bump up the heat gradually to 200 to leave for 60 minutes. Do not open the oven, you will crack 20 clean and sterile glasses. Get them the next morning or whatever.
You will have sterile bottles up until you take off that little foil cap. The process is so easy and can be done whenever you have a spare hour or so. Not very labour intensive at all.
A like the piece of mind as well. I usually bottle beers I will keep for 6 months or more so I need to ensure sanitary practise.


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## glaab (18/3/13)

Black Devil Dog said:


> The sink in that photo, did you just slaughter an animal in there?
> 
> That looks ******* septic, you need biohazard controls, not some piss arse bottle washer.............


+ 1 !


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## bum (18/3/13)

Econwatson said:


> Regarding taking the labels off, I just stuck mine in the dishwasher. Lot's of them fell off and the others just peeled off. I then used a soft metal pot scrubber to get rid of any additional gunk still left on.
> 
> My sanitising regime is to fill a 330 bottle about half full with my diluted sanitiser of choice. Give it a good shaking with my hand over the top, use a funnel to pour the sanitising solution into the next bottle, and continue. Once you get a routine going, it doesn't take long at all.


The labels are on the outside and don't affect the quality of the beer within at all.

You're effectively jamming your dirty-arsed thumb in an otherwise clean bottle and you _might_ be affecting the beer within. Consider a thumbless method that works for you.



beatbreaker said:


>



Ahaha. That guy is a a moron. Please consider relying on other sources.



431neb said:


> PPS Yes it is DUCK tape not DUCT tape even though it get's used for ducts. 3M invented it for wartime use and it had to work in water so they named it duck tape. Quack, quack!


Yes but it sometimes more important to express yourself in a way that people understand and relate to. Everyone says "duct tape"? Say "duct tape" unless "ducky-tape" amuses you more.



Black Devil Dog said:


> The sink in that photo, did you just slaughter an animal in there?
> 
> That looks ******* septic, you need biohazard controls, not some piss arse bottle washer.............


Yeah. Wouldn't even _drink_ beer near that sink, let alone package it.


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## DU99 (18/3/13)

This a better unit can wash two bottles


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## NuggetSA (18/3/13)

Its been said but just want to highlight it - sodium metabisulphite is baaaaad.

In people with a sensitivity it causes shortness of breath and coughing, in people with asthma it can set off a full on asthma attack and in people with an allergy it can lead to anaphylaxis (just like peanuts allergy.) I'm in the second group so a subject I'm pretty keen on.

Considering it isn't even that wonderful a cleaner get yourself some sodium percarbonate and keep your mates breathing


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## Ducatiboy stu (18/3/13)

Stay away from sod met.

I just full mine up with a hot solution off happy san and let soak over night. Then empty and rinse with hot water .

Try to remember to rinse your bottles as soon as they are empty


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## jaypes (18/3/13)

Use the RyoBrush

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/39738-turbo-bottle-washer/#entry560357


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## JDW81 (18/3/13)

jaypes said:


> Use the RyoBrush


I only use this method when my bottles are dirty (either ones which have come from the pub, or I haven't rinsed them effectively when emptied), but it works a treat.

Otherwise bottles get a good rinsing straight after drinking, hung on the bottle tree clean and then sanitised before refilling. Easy as.


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## beatbreaker (18/3/13)

@NuggesSA - I bought a bottle of "Starsan" almost immediately after it was mentioned above, after doing some research it looks like a piece of kit I can't live without and a bottle of the stuff will last forever, I'll use that for sanitising and sodium percarbonate "napisan" for cleaning. 

Don't worry people, I'm not going down the route of sodium metabisulphite.





DU99 said:


> This a better unit can wash two bottles


Looks pretty awesome, I'll need to check that it'll fit - the postage cost of $25 is pretty steep though!





homebrewkid said:


> Does anyone know if things like these are available in Australia?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


PM me when you're organised with the item, I'd like to look at it as another option.





jaypes said:


> Use the RyoBrush
> 
> http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/39738-turbo-bottle-washer/#entry560357









hahaha yeah I saw that last night after looking through the forums, that's ok, my arms need the manual workout


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## Econwatson (18/3/13)

bum said:


> The labels are on the outside and don't affect the quality of the beer within at all.
> 
> You're effectively jamming your dirty-arsed thumb in an otherwise clean bottle and you _might_ be affecting the beer within. Consider a thumbless method that works for you.


I just think it looks better to not have labels on my bottles, it's pleasing to the eye!

And regarding my sanitation method, I never said anything about using my thumb. I use the flat of my palm to keep the sanitiser in. I feel the contact with my well scrubbed hand is minimal.


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## roverfj1200 (18/3/13)

I will put in my 2C here as I feel I have a good thing going..

First drink the bottle of beer.

Then (don't leave it laying around) rinse with a few short bursts from the tap and shakes.

Next moring use strait hot tap water to rinse a few more times and place on bottle tree to dry.

Store dry bottles away from dust. ( I cover mine with old towels or use big plastic tus with lids.)

Now to use all I do is use a bottle rinser (the type that fits to the top of a bottle tree)with starsan in it. Dip the bottle top in starsan and one pump on the washer on the tree ready to bottle.

I think the main thing is to wash as you go then it is spread out and is less of a chore.

Cheers


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## brad81 (18/3/13)

Further to roverfj1200's comment, I chuck mine in the dishwasher (for some hot steamy love) after doing the above. Spray 1-2 pumps of starsan in and a bit of foil then off to hide in the shed.

Easier again if you have swingtops too.


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## sponge (18/3/13)

When I bottled (and when I occasionally bottle a couple) I just filled a fermenter with hot nappy san mix and added the bottles to there. I always tried to fill them up individually as I placed them in to avoid any air pockets within the bottles themselves.

Also means the labels come off without leaving any residue on the bottle.

After soaking, I just rinsed out with some hot water, gave a squirt of starsan, then left them with gladwrap over the top until needed.


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## 431neb (18/3/13)

Black Devil Dog said:


> The sink in that photo, did you just slaughter an animal in there?
> 
> That looks ******* septic, you need biohazard controls, not some piss arse bottle washer.............



Blackdevildog, I agree the sink aint a good look but it does get some pretty industrial abuse. The important thing is that everything that comes into contact with the product is clean and sanitary.

I won't post a picture of the stovetop out there. Let's just say that burnt on tempura batter and spilt wort make a fairly effective epoxy.


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## Black Devil Dog (18/3/13)

431neb said:


> Blackdevildog, I agree the sink aint a good look but it does get some pretty industrial abuse. The important thing is that everything that comes into contact with the product is clean and sanitary.
> 
> I won't post a picture of the stovetop out there. Let's just say that burnt on tempura batter and spilt wort make a fairly effective epoxy.


Thanks for not posting a photo of your stovetop, I've just soaked my computer in Dettol after it was exposed to the photo of your sink and I'm not sure it could handle being exposed to more biowaste. h34r:


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## Dave70 (18/3/13)

All this fuss and fretting over bottle cleaning is horseshit.
If they're filthy, cut the end off your bottle brush, stick it in a drill and give them a good Rodgering.

After that just be sure to rinse clean after you finish.

I do nothing more than slosh a weak mix of bleach and idopher around using my thumb as a stopper, shove a funnel in the next bottle, tranfer and repeat. A bottle tree is the best investment you can make. Mine holds 60 or so no worries. Never had a crook bottle - due to infection at any rate.

In any case, if the beer entering the bottle is such fcuking weaksauce that the ABV cant top a few microorganisim's, then man up and brew a fcuking imperial IPA or Belgian strong ale.


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## homebrewkid (18/3/13)

you lot crack me up, do you really waste your time covering the tops of empty bottles?




if you do this


you can do this,


and this



and stop wasting time covering empty bottles

p.s. sorry for the crappy phone photos no light under the house

cheers: HBK


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## Sterlo (19/3/13)

when i bottled i always rinsed after empty, placed on bottled tree to drain. then when bottling sanistised with starsan and filled. worked for me until i saw the light and kegged.

Sterlo


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## waggastew (19/3/13)

Why not throw another 50c into the ring? I use PET's

Pre Bottling Day
1. Pour beer from bottle and immediately rinse under the tap a few times then invert to dry
2. Usually store with original lid on but not always

Brew day goes like this:
1. Place 30 PET's in the laundry tub and fill up with warm water and a cap of HB Napisan. Leave for 30min
2. Drain tub and bottles and fill up tub with cold water and ~1/2 cup of unscented bleach. Leave for 30min
3. Drain tub and bottles and rinse each bottle with a couple of flushes (1/6 full and shake) of cold water, then put upright
4. Spray with 4 squirts of Starsan and leave for 10min (Sanitise and should react with traces of the bleach)
5. Shake bottles, tip out Starsan dregs, prime and bottle as usual

Seems to work


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## KingKong (19/3/13)

waggastew said:


> Why not throw another 50c into the ring? I use PET's
> 
> Pre Bottling Day
> 1. Pour beer from bottle and immediately rinse under the tap a few times then invert to dry
> ...


If your bottles are rinsed and stored clean, you could save yourself a heap of time and just sanatise with starsan. That looks like very over the top pain the arse.


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## Aydos (19/3/13)

When I'm done with the bottle it goes in the sink and I rinse it with hot water. If there is still gunk in it I grab the scrubber and clean it out. Once they are drip dried I store in milk crates that I have made a lid that fits over all of the bottles. This stops bugs and dust getting in. 

When I'm ready to bottle its just a case of filling a bucket with some starsan, filling the bottles up and draining them and then hanging them on the bottle tree. Once I've waited 20mins for the bulk priming to disperse they are ready to go.

I don't bother with sodium percarbonate with my bottles as they are cleaned straight away. I haven't had any dramas doing this.

Now I keg, a lot easier to clean and sanintise a 19l bottle.


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## QldKev (19/3/13)

Kegs have been mentioned before. Before you spend too much money on bottles, and trees and cleaning magic wands have a good look at a budget kegging system. About the best day of my brewing was the day my bottles left my house.


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## KingKong (19/3/13)

QldKev said:


> Kegs have been mentioned before. Before you spend too much money on bottles, and trees and cleaning magic wands have a good look at a budget kegging system. About the best day of my brewing was the day my bottles left my house.


 :icon_offtopic: but what do you say is a budget kegging setup ? a. new and b. second hand ? Id be interested because I would kill for an easier process then bottling.


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## carniebrew (19/3/13)

KingKong said:


> If your bottles are rinsed and stored clean, you could save yourself a heap of time and just sanatise with starsan. That looks like very over the top pain the arse.


Agreed, and one squirt will do it.


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## QldKev (19/3/13)

KingKong said:


> :icon_offtopic: but what do you say is a budget kegging setup ? a. new and b. second hand ? Id be interested because I would kill for an easier process then bottling.


Here's an ebay system, for $230. Then you need a bottle which you can rent initially until you can afford to buy one. And a fridge to convert, which older fridges are free/cheap.

If your lucky sometimes you can find a ready kitted out fridge a lot cheaper. Here's a keg king one including CO2 bottle etc for $350


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## Aydos (19/3/13)

I started bottling initially because keging was too expensive.

Don't rush out and buy a keging system if you can't afford it!

Once you have spent long enough bottling initially (it took me 17 brews) then maybe look at kegging.

Don't get me wrong, kegs are great but bottles are heaps cheaper to get set up with and you can start bottling beer heaps sooner at a cheaper cost. A lot cheaper than $350.


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## QldKev (19/3/13)

aydos said:


> I started bottling initially because keging was too expensive.
> 
> Don't rush out and buy a keging system if you can't afford it!
> 
> ...



But if you spend $100 on bottle tress and all other crap trying to make bottling easier, and then move to kegs....


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## waggastew (19/3/13)

carniebrew said:


> Agreed, and one squirt will do it.


Had a few issues with mild infections early on so bumped up the regime accordingly. Often I am using bottles that have been stored for a few months or been given to other people as samples. Either way it costs very little in terms of money (half a cap of HB napisan, half a cup of bleach, and 150mL of dilute Starsan) and a bit of time while I am doing other things. Not a big deal, maybe over the top, but every Pro brewer article I have ever read begins with a rant about cleanliness, sanitation etc


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## bum (20/3/13)

KingKong said:


> If your bottles are rinsed and stored clean, you could save yourself a heap of time and just sanatise with starsan. That looks like very over the top pain the arse.


With glass, yeah. Not with PET as specified in his post. I've had too many PET bottles hold on to smells from previous batches to not wonder what else might be being retained. Plastic needs a wash.

[EDIT: more words = more sense]


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## mark0 (20/3/13)

bullsneck said:


> Later I 'cap' them with a little bit of foil and chuck them in a COLD oven. Bump up the heat gradually to 200 to leave for 60 minutes. Do not open the oven, you will crack 20 clean and sterile glasses. Get them the next morning or whatever.
> You will have sterile bottles up until you take off that little foil cap. The process is so easy and can be done whenever you have a spare hour or so. Not very labour intensive at all.
> A like the piece of mind as well. I usually bottle beers I will keep for 6 months or more so I need to ensure sanitary practise.


Oven works a treat, foil caps too. Easiest method I have used.

Put them in the oven cold, and turn on to 200 (oven is slow enough by itself) leave for at least 30min at 200 then kill the oven. Leave the bottles in the oven until they cool. A little bit of moisture in the bottles will also help the sterilisation.

At 200degC you are getting sterilisation not sanitation. You are guaranteed to get all the nooks and crannys, and residual crud is less important but you still don't want it in your beer.


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## angus_grant (20/3/13)

And for the "you must build a gadget to perform any homebrew process" crowd (in which I include myself): http://www.brewgeeks.com/bottle-washer.html. Cheap submersible pump connected to pipework which sit inside each bottle and blasts starsan/sod perc/whatever is in your sink up inside the bottles. Would be cool to build this into a bottle tree for the cleaning and draining combination.

I am thinking about building one of these even though I keg my beers. I am starting to bottle a few extra bottles to pass onto to other people, so will start upping my fermenter volume so I can keg 19L and then bottle some beers. Plus I can build a system which will clean kegs as well.


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## sponge (20/3/13)

angus_grant said:


> Plus I can build a system which will clean kegs as well.


Hot water and elbow grease?


Pretty neat looking bottle cleaning setup though..


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## carniebrew (20/3/13)

mark0 said:


> ...
> You are guaranteed to get all the nooks and crannys, and residual crud is less important but you still don't want it in your beer.


If you have nooks and crannies in your bottles I think it's time for new bottles!


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## angus_grant (20/3/13)

sponge said:


> Hot water and elbow grease?
> 
> 
> Pretty neat looking bottle cleaning setup though..


yeh, cleaning kegs is pretty easy but I figure whilst building a system for the bottles may as well include kegs.

I would look at using garden irrigation sprayers. Would be easier than JB-welding connections like in the link...

I really like the idea of hooking it all up to bottle tree though.


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## buxtronix (20/3/13)

For removing labels, I used to soak the bottles in hot water to soften the glue. But this would only make it easier for some labels. Next I tried pouring a bit of Ammonia to the water. Brilliant! Most paper labels come off heaps easy in ammonia water.

I end up chucking the bottles with stubborn labels, yet I still get plenty off with the ammonia method.

As for cleaning, I rinse after I drink, drain and store in a cupboard. Then on bottling day just submerge them in a sink of iodophor at the start, giving each a quick squirt under the tap at filling time. Never had a bad bottle - only had badly sealed caps. Don't forget to put your caps in the sanitizer too.


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## Sam England (20/3/13)

Ready to be flamed here, but sometimes I think sanitising is a bit overrated. I went 10 years in my K&K days (read lazy uni-student needing large volumes of cheap beer quickly) using unsanitised long necks and Grolsch bottles without a noticeable infection. I'd religiously wash them out after use and sit the caps back on once dry with the Grolsch or just lay a sheet of something over the top of the longnecks. I'd always sanitise everything fermenter side, as I worked on the theory that losing 1 bottle in 40 odd I could take, but a whole batch no. It was also the standard Coopers kit yeast every time, so cross contamination of yeast wasn't an issue.
In saying this, I have now kegged for a few years and sanitise everything including any leftovers I bottle, mainly because it's already at hand. I've also moved to AG, and with a lot more time and money invested in each beer it's worth it.

Maybe lucky for the first 15 years, and I'm not encouraging others to do so, but some of the cleaning and sanitising regimes seem a bit excessive when you could just rinse well, store covered and use your preferred sanitising method when bottling. 

Cheers,
BB


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## Sterlo (21/3/13)

Maybe lucky for the first 15 years, and I'm not encouraging others to do so, but some of the cleaning and sanitising regimes seem a bit excessive when you could just rinse well, store covered and use your preferred sanitising method when bottling. 

Cheers,
BB

yep.......rinse well, store properly and sanitise at bottling time

Sterlo


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## bum (21/3/13)

Just like the vast majority of posts have advised already you mean?

+1


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## felten (24/3/13)

mark0 said:


> Oven works a treat, foil caps too. Easiest method I have used.
> 
> Put them in the oven cold, and turn on to 200 (oven is slow enough by itself) leave for at least 30min at 200 then kill the oven. Leave the bottles in the oven until they cool. A little bit of moisture in the bottles will also help the sterilisation.
> 
> At 200degC you are getting sterilisation not sanitation. You are guaranteed to get all the nooks and crannys, and residual crud is less important but you still don't want it in your beer.


Have to disagree with this. I've used this method on glass jars before, tightly sealed with foil and a little bit of moisture left inside. The moisture just prompted mould to grow inside after a few weeks.

Dry heat sterilization is best done dry IMO. The steam inside the bottles/jars is definitely not going to reach 200c.


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