# How to add permanent volume markings to a kettle.



## argon (3/3/14)

Just saw this posted on Reddit. Thought it looked pretty cool, so thought I'd post here.


http://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/1zekac/how_to_add_permanent_volume_markings_to_a_kettle/
http://imgur.com/a/dCvS5


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## thedragon (3/3/14)

Looks great.


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## Camo6 (3/3/14)

Awesome!


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## Burt de Ernie (3/3/14)

Looks awesome.

Although I`m Wondering if the cheaper style kettles would rust?...just a thought


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## Grainer (3/3/14)

Im in..going to do it...


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## technobabble66 (3/3/14)

Fantastic technique. 
Thanks for posting, Argon!


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## Scooby Tha Newbie (3/3/14)

Nice one thank you.


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## StalkingWilbur (3/3/14)

That's awesome!


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## fletcher (4/3/14)

holy crap that's amazing


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## pommiebloke (4/3/14)

Oh yes! This is the business!


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## Yob (4/3/14)

Thats the ticket, Id not been arsed making a new stick for my new(ish) kettle, mostly Ive been just judging it with my thumb, not really been too much under or over but that is just awesome in it's simplicity and why the hell wouldnt ya!!

Nice one


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## Truman42 (4/3/14)

Thats awesome, Im goin to do them on the outside of my urn alongside the siht tube.

Gents dont make the mistake I made when I first measured out litre marks on my kettle. For ages I couldnt work out why my volumes didnt seem to match up with my brewing software. I had used a cheap $2 shop jug to mark them out and they were way out. So use a good quality jug.


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## Edak (4/3/14)

Truman said:


> Thats awesome, Im goin to do them on the outside of my urn alongside the siht tube.
> 
> Gents dont make the mistake I made when I first measured out litre marks on my kettle. For ages I couldnt work out why my volumes didnt seem to match up with my brewing software. I had used a cheap $2 shop jug to mark them out and they were way out. So use a good quality jug.


or don't use a vessel, put your pot on an accurate scale and know that 1L water is 1kg.


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## mb-squared (4/3/14)

That's great! Much nicer than sticking my tape measure in there. Thanks for posting!


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## superstock (4/3/14)

Would the etching create a roughened area for bacteria to hide in?


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## NewtownClown (4/3/14)

Truman said:


> Thats awesome, Im goin to do them on the outside of my urn alongside the siht tube.
> 
> Gents dont make the mistake I made when I first measured out litre marks on my kettle. For ages I couldnt work out why my volumes didnt seem to match up with my brewing software. I had used a cheap $2 shop jug to mark them out and they were way out. So use a good quality jug.


 Better still, use an accurate kitchen scale to weigh your water measurements

EDIT too slow, as per edak


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## MastersBrewery (4/3/14)

superstock said:


> Would the etching create a roughened area for bacteria to hide in?


I probably wouldn't do this to an SS fermenter but mash tun/kettle should be of no concern


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## QldKev (4/3/14)

superstock said:


> Would the etching create a roughened area for bacteria to hide in?


I was wondering would this be detrimental to the chromium layer?


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## OzPaleAle (4/3/14)

Cool idea, just soldered a couple of alligator clips onto a 9VDC regulated power supply I had lying around at work, will give it a shot tonight.

Thanks argon


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## TimT (4/3/14)

Cool. I should use this method.


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## fletcher (4/3/14)

QldKev said:


> I was wondering would this be detrimental to the chromium layer?


hmm, valid points


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## Yob (4/3/14)

would Aluminium fare better / worse?


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## davedoran (4/3/14)

not sure found this through some google searches.

http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/727806/apple-cider-vinegar-and-aluminium-why-it-doesnt-mix

How it lead to backyard chickens I don't know. That's for google to answer.
Starts talking about apple cider but further on down it has a bit of info on vinegars reaction with untreated aluminium. I would think most posts sold for cooing purposed have been anodised. Personally Id steer clear with the aluminium though.
Stainless id be more confident with. We passivate in work using acid quite a bit and never had any problems.


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## BungBrew (4/3/14)

I'm very keen to try this but is it SS safe? Last thing I want to do is damage my shiny 50L BIAB vessel !!!


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## davedoran (4/3/14)

if someone in Sydney has the set up im happy to donate some stainless offcut to test on.


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## brad81 (4/3/14)

Yob said:


> would Aluminium fare better / worse?


Might be worth testing it out on the lid first.



dave doran said:


> not sure found this through some google searches.
> 
> http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/727806/apple-cider-vinegar-and-aluminium-why-it-doesnt-mix
> 
> ...


You are etching, not leaving the vinegar there to form toxins. A good scrub/clean asap with clean water after the exercise and you'd be good to go. A little bit more reading suggests that because aluminium is so reactive, it'll tend to have a layer of aluminium oxide which can protect it from weaker acids.

For piece of mind I'd definitely test on another piece of aluminium first though.


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## slash22000 (4/3/14)

*PSA: this was posted today: http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/1zhkvn/a_quick_warning_about_etching_yor_stainless_kettle/*

saw with great interest the posts here about etching your stainless kettles. Not wanting to blow $100 that I spent on my kettle, I asked my brother-in-law, who happens to be a PhD metallurgist and a 30 year specialist in stainless steel. I asked if the battery and vinegar process could cause problems with corrosion on a kettle. This was his reply:

Excellent question. Are you sure you're not a metallurgist? Anyway, yes, probably these etched areas would be prone to corrosion and (worse) might cause your beer to have a metallic taste for the first post-etching batch or two.

Interesting how a little knowledge can be dangerous. A fascinating little idea about how to ruin the very expensive stainless kettle that I have gone to a lot of trouble to make. [Since his company produces stainless steel]

All is not lost! All we need to do is make sure the etched areas have their corrosion resistance restored! We can easily do this with materials found around the home. What I would suggest is soaking a washcloth in lemon juice, laying it on top of the etchings (maybe by turning it sideways), and getting it hot somehow - say, 180 deg. F or thereabouts, so we don't boil the lemon juice off but we have some impetus for the passivation reaction. I guess you could put it in the oven on "low". An hour or two should do it. If it dries out you could just pour some more lemon juice on it. Lime juice would work of course. Or just plain lemons. Nitric acid is normally used, but who has that laying around? Plus it's dangerous.


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## StalkingWilbur (4/3/14)

That's great information. Thanks!


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## MastersBrewery (4/3/14)

I have a spare bigw pot I might test this on, then wash and leave filled with water for a week or so


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## argon (4/3/14)

Yeah looks like passivating would be a good idea. I have citric acid at home.


"Yes, the dried acid powder is ~100% citric acid anhydrous (dehydrated citric acid). It will work. Make a solution of 100g/L and expose the surface for a minimum of 30 minutes at room temp. If you can heat it past 100F it will work faster. There is no harm in leaving it longer. Be sure the surface is nice and clean before you begin."


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## shaunous (5/3/14)

After they invented the engraver, i now use it to do the exact same thing.


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## law-of-ohms (5/3/14)

I has one of these at work.

http://www.tigbrush.com/

Sapose I better get off my ass and use it.


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## shaunous (5/3/14)

law-of-ohms said:


> I has one of these at work.
> 
> http://www.tigbrush.com/
> 
> Sapose I better get off my ass and use it.


Well I reckon my workshop needs one of them, better get an order number ready


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## KevinR (5/3/14)

Burt de Ernie said:


> Looks awesome.
> 
> Although I`m Wondering if the cheaper style kettles would rust?...just a thought


I don't think so it looks a lot like a cheep version of what is used in industry as a post weld treatment of stainless steel welds to restore the natural surface to the to the heat affected area so it won't get rust stains. They call it TIG brushing.(not to be confused tig welding).

Kev


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## davedoran (5/3/14)

This is the one we use in work http://weldbrush.com/

Works well for stainless welds but the tips are a bit big. Might be a little bit messy for this application but with a bit of care and patience im sure it would work.


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## Edak (5/3/14)

Yay I now have a valid use for my laser engraver slash cutter! Cuts electrical tape perfectly with precision. Little designs easy to do.


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## benno1973 (5/3/14)

Just to add a counter to the corrosion argument, I found this on a tumblr blog regarding the etching:



> In a thread on it on HBT, someone from one of my homebrew clubs posted the response when he asked John Palmer (who’s a metallurgist by trade) about it.
> Palmer responded that it was a great idea, he was going to do it himself, and while the citric or nitric acid passivation is industry standard, Palmer said that for homebrewers, the kettle will never really see the conditions necessary for corrosion to take place, and there should be no off flavors or issues with doing it.


Still, the lemon juice trick sounds easy enough.


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## idzy (5/3/14)

If someone finds some suitable stencils, please post


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## shaunous (5/3/14)

Edak said:


> Yay I now have a valid use for my laser engraver slash cutter! Cuts electrical tape perfectly with precision. Little designs easy to do.


What's a slash cutter


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## New_guy (6/3/14)

idzy said:


> If someone finds some suitable stencils, please post


I found this - letters and numbers, but ? ti big - they are 5cm tall http://www.stencilgallery.com.au/alphabets.html


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## _HOME_BREW_WALLACE_ (6/3/14)

idzy said:


> If someone finds some suitable stencils, please post


eBay??


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## OzPaleAle (6/3/14)

I reckon just run 2 lines of electrical tape up the side then put 2 pieces horizontally at each marking point and make every 5L mark bigger or just mark every 5L even.


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## idzy (6/3/14)

Then get good at subtraction as the water rises and lowers heh


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## shaunous (6/3/14)

Or just use an engraver....


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## Ducatiboy stu (6/3/14)

I use the "that looks about right" method...simply because after a while there is a ring at where the correct volume is in the kettle.


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## QldKev (7/3/14)




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## sponge (7/3/14)

I still haven't upgraded from my piece of dowel with texta on it..

Definitely not the most sanitary option by a loooooong way, although I just take a quick reading at the start by dipping it in the kettle, take it out and see where the wort mark is on the dowel. If I need to adjust by a certain volume I'll measure that out using my measuring jug.

EDIT: I'll get around to doing something with shiny SS one day.. I might even use my SS mash paddle as a measuring stick on the handle end using this battery method. Saves me worrying about diminishing the quality of the kettle (even though that may not even be an issue)


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## spog (8/3/14)

idzy said:


> If someone finds some suitable stencils, please post


Maybe the stencils found in stationary shops,


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## wide eyed and legless (8/3/14)

If so many are interested in having a measure why not a piece of stainless strip 25 mm x 1.6 mm and put the markings on that just in case the chromium / nickel balance is damaged by the process.


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## Edak (9/3/14)

So I jumped right in and gave it a go. Not perfect but it turned out better than it looks in the photo. 28L mark is the shortest one, didn't give it enough time.


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## MHB (9/3/14)

I would have thought corrosion wouldn't be a major issue, as the Iron would plate out faster than would either the Nickel or the Chrome so the etched surface should be more "rust proof" than the rest of the surface - trade off being that it would be rougher - meh - I think it’s not going to be a problem, but that's just an opinion based on doing a bit of electro polishing.

As for the stencils, I think the ones used for glass etching would be the best as they are already a negative image and they are made to resist acid (HF a nasty one at that), there are some on eBay but I think I recall seeing some at Spotlight in the craft section they certainly sold the glass etching paste there, you has to wonder how that would go at etching stainless, its definitely a strong enough acid, but maybe it will just fluoridise the surface and make it bullet proof

When I have done this in the past I just used a small cold chisel and a big hammer, roman numerals are your friend.
Mark on IX/III/MMXIV


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## jaypes (9/3/14)

sponge said:


> I still haven't upgraded from my piece of dowel with texta on it..


Yep, I still use my 'ol measuring spoon marked with a sharpie since day 1


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## tateg (17/3/14)

Edak said:


> So I jumped right in and gave it a go. Not perfect but it turned out better than it looks in the photo. 28L mark is the shortest one, didn't give it enough time.


hi Edak

what stencils did you use for your pot ?
I have tried a lot of places and the are either not available or they are to big.

So has anyone managed to find decent stencils for this project ?

Cheers tate


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## Edak (17/3/14)

tateg said:


> hi Edak
> 
> what stencils did you use for your pot ?
> I have tried a lot of places and the are either not available or they are to big.
> ...


I printed them (laser cut) from my DIY laser cutter.

Where are you located? I might be able to afford some time to print off a few over a beer or two.


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## tateg (17/3/14)

Edak said:


> I printed them (laser cut) from my DIY laser cutter.
> 
> Where are you located? I might be able to afford some time to print off a few over a beer or two.


Thanks Edak 
That makes since now I have been looking for the last week for decent stick on stencils, with no luck 
I am located near the melb airport 
Cheers 
Tate


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## QldKev (18/3/14)

No stick on, but would be ok. Cheap enough to try
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bulk-Pack-3-Mixed-Size-Stencil-Letters-Numbers-Templates-New-/121292106577?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Wholesale_Toys_Hobbies&hash=item1c3d92ab51


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## wide eyed and legless (18/3/14)

Brewing beer is simple, but we insist on making it complicated.

Confucius.


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## MastersBrewery (18/3/14)

stencils not too exy


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## maxim0200 (18/3/14)

Brilliant idea!


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## Edak (18/3/14)

After doing a brew, cleaned the vessel and leaving for a week and a half, the whole pot is still perfect with no evidence of corrosion or damage. I will honestly say though that having the markings made it sooooo easy for this latest brew, hitting all numbers perfectly!

I might have preferred a fancier font, but given the numbers have "holes" in them I found I was limited in my selection. Still having the ability to now etch any design into metal is awesome and I would like to thank the OP again for posting this method as I had not come across it before. 

PS I measured the water vols using my grain scales (correct to 2g), too easy!


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## tateg (18/3/14)

Edak said:


> After doing a brew, cleaned the vessel and leaving for a week and a half, the whole pot is still perfect with no evidence of corrosion or damage. I will honestly say though that having the markings made it sooooo easy for this latest brew, hitting all numbers perfectly!
> 
> I might have preferred a fancier font, but given the numbers have "holes" in them I found I was limited in my selection. Still having the ability to now etch any design into metal is awesome and I would like to thank the OP again for posting this method as I had not come across it before.
> 
> PS I measured the water vols using my grain scales (correct to 2g), too easy!


Edak 
I need your stencils, the pot looks so good and functional !


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## jackh (30/5/14)

Has anyone thought of doing this to their Braumiester?


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## waggastew (13/1/15)

Just finished electro etching my new urn HLT. I used a variable voltage powerpack from the school science lab (I am a teacher), leads, aligator clips and the usual method described in this thread (although I bumped up the salt concentration slightly). I ended up marking the volumes relative to the volume I can get out of it (i.e. volume is to tap not to bottom of urn) as I figure its no use knowing how much water is in the bottom that I can't get to.

Also installed a new ball valve and thermowell for the temp controller. All went pretty well, even cutting the hole for the thermowell with a hole saw which I was scared I would screw up.

Tomorrow it will be onto marking the kettle (but unlike the HLT above the volume markings will be absolute for the pot) . Not looking forward to having my head in a 70L pot half the day!


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## smithy010 (13/1/15)

I've done it to my 70l kettle. It's the best thing I've ever done to it. I used a 12v dc supply. As a precaution I made a paste of citric acid and vinegar overnight to try and passivate it afterwards.


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## waggastew (13/1/15)

smithy010 said:


> I've done it to my 70l kettle. It's the best thing I've ever done to it. I used a 12v dc supply. As a precaution I made a paste of citric acid and vinegar overnight to try and passivate it afterwards.
> 
> 
> 
> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1421137099.919009.jpg


How did you get the lines so even smith010?


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## smithy010 (13/1/15)

waggastew said:


> How did you get the lines so even smith010?


It's a one piece custom vinyl sticker, carefully applied and then you just trace them with the q tip dipped in solution. 
The sticker was not cheap, but it came out top notch.


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## sp0rk (14/1/15)

I did my keggle last week
My lines are a bit wonky, but seem to be pretty accurate
Tested it with a brew on saturday filling with my usual method (17L kmart bucket with litre markings) and the markings in the keggle were bang on
Will be doing the same on my 18gal keggle once I finish cleaning it up


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## waggastew (14/1/15)

Just finished my kettle. I was going to try and cut a stencil out of contact but thought that getting it on straight would be a right pain. Ended up taping with green tape, seemed to work fine.


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## mofox1 (14/1/15)

Nice... maybe I should have given the sight glasses a miss after all. :unsure:


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## lael (14/1/15)

waggastew said:


> Just finished my kettle. I was going to try and cut a stencil out of contact but thought that getting it on straight would be a right pain. Ended up taping with green tape, seemed to work fine.


waggastew - are your markings black because of the higher salt concentration?


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## waggastew (21/3/15)

lael said:


> waggastew - are your markings black because of the higher salt concentration?


Not sure. They tend to appear different shades of grey depending on angle, if they are wet etc. Certainly the longer you apply the current the darker the etching gets.


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## lael (22/3/15)

They look awesome! What font did you use? (If you are happy to share  ) How far apart did the litre marks end up?


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## droid (22/3/15)

pfft...I scratched the bejesus out of my keggle with a dremel, even scribed 15 where it should have been 20 and had to put an X through the 15 and scribe 20 alongside


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## waggastew (22/3/15)

lael said:


> They look awesome! What font did you use? (If you are happy to share  ) How far apart did the litre marks end up?


Font was some cheap stickers from Spotlight. I have a 70L kettle and the marks varied a bit at the bottom due to pickup tube, curves etc. You really need to measure out your own vessel due to variations in diameter etc


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## lael (22/3/15)

Oh, I understand they need to be different. Just curious how close they are. I'm contemplating 2.5l markers so there are a few less and I figure half way between markers will tell you 1.25l, which is accurate enough and may be easier to count / use at a glance.


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## waggastew (22/3/15)

L marks are about 7mm from top of one mark to the top of another


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