# Coopers In A 11.5 Litre Fermenter?



## paulc (14/2/06)

Hi.

I got a Malt Shovel Kit for xmas -- and bottled my first batch (two-row larger) on the weekend. Finger crossed.

I'm keen to get another batch on -- and would like to try the Coopers Pale Ale. I understand that you would normally use a can of CPA & 1kg of sugar in a 23lt fermenter. My fermenter is only 11.5lt (which is fine for me).

Do I just use the extract on it's own, or do I add 1/2 extract & 500g of sugar?

Cheers, PC.


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## troywhite (14/2/06)

I'd have a punt and say that you are best to halve everything (Except the yeast, may as chuck it all in)

Where do you live? Might be worth trying to find a cheap 25L pail or barrell and moving across to that. There are some cheap sources around. 

I assume you have a tap, therm and bubbler on the small ferm? Worse case buy a 25L pail from a HBS for around $28 - $30 and use that.


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## delboy (14/2/06)

ok good question I asked the same one myself at my local HBS and this is what iwas told .

yes it can be done no worries but what you have to remember is that a can of cooper or most concentrates for that matter are bittered to be used at 20 23 litres.

so if you do use the whole can you will have a bitter brew .

so here is my sugestion use half the concentrate and sore the rest in a sterile container in the fridge until that one is done and then use the remaining .

batch one 1/2 tin of coopers pale ale 
350 gms DLM
175 gms DEXTROSE
175 gms CORNSTARCH

YEAST OFF OF ONE PALE ALE LONG NECK
Bring yeast off of pale ale longneck up to room temp over night first then add it to a bit off the wort you just made up and let it grow before adding so as not to shock it too much .

try that it works very nicley and you will have a pretty good pale clone as well .

then once that batch is brewed start your next batch but boil the remaining goo in 2 litres of water for a few minutes. to kill of any nasties that may have found there way in .

but best thing to remember is once your bitten buy the brew bug you will go out and get a bigger fermenter, then more bottels , then a keg system then the wifes sewing room becomes your bar .

or you will just put it in the shed and forget about it unill your next beer cost you a kings ransom.

:beer: DELBOY "WELCOME TO THE CLINIC FOR BEEROHOLICS"


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## ruserious (14/2/06)

paulc said:


> Hi.
> 
> I got a Malt Shovel Kit for xmas -- and bottled my first batch (two-row larger) on the weekend. Finger crossed.
> 
> ...



gday paul,

imo get a 25lt pail and don't look back.

stick with the coopers, i don't rate MSB at all, mho.

cheers

ruserious


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## Fingerlickin_B (14/2/06)

Paul, 

Just use the entire contents of the can and no sugar, make up to 11L. 

Using the entire sachet of supplied yeast with that quantity of wort is just about spot on (the supplied sachet is only about half what you really should be pitching dry). 

Trust me, it won't be too bitter...I've tried it myself.

If it is only your second brew you'll be absolutely blown away at how good it tastes :super: 

PZ.


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## Batz (14/2/06)

11.5lt WTF !

Suppose you could use it for a step...while you check your 60lt fermenter :super: 


Cheers
Batz


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## Mr Bond (14/2/06)

Fingerlickin_B said:


> Paul,
> 
> Just use the entire contents of the can and no sugar, make up to 11L.
> 
> ...



Yeah those cans are 19 IBU ,so halving it with no extras will bring it to mid to high 30's in IBU's,allowing for the extra body from the all malt extract.


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## tonydav (14/2/06)

For interest has anyone else done a 2-can coopers pale ale? (or 1 can in 11.5L). I've previously tried a "2-can" with other cans and found them too bitter although I did enjoy the full malt body.

tony


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## Fingerlickin_B (14/2/06)

tonydav said:


> For interest has anyone else done a 2-can coopers pale ale? (or 1 can in 11.5L). I've previously tried a "2-can" with other cans and found them too bitter although I did enjoy the full malt body.
> 
> tony



Yep, I have (as previously stated) and I found the bitterness to my liking. 

My mates who don't like it so bitter prefer a toucan of Cooper's Real Ale & Canadian Blonde...very smooth too  

(Use only the yeast supplied with the Blonde kit...toss the other one out) 

PZ.


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## Mr Bond (14/2/06)

tonydav said:


> For interest has anyone else done a 2-can coopers pale ale? (or 1 can in 11.5L). I've previously tried a "2-can" with other cans and found them too bitter although I did enjoy the full malt body.
> 
> tony
> [post="108577"][/post]​



yeah its much more astringent than an extract or ag made to 40 ibu's with a lo cohumulone hop for a 60 min boil.
Iso hop extract that is used to bitter cans is a little more bitter and mouth puckering at higher levels.
you can't beat the_ REAL _thing


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## recharge (15/2/06)

paulc said:


> Hi.
> 
> I got a Malt Shovel Kit for xmas -- and bottled my first batch (two-row larger) on the weekend. Finger crossed.
> 
> ...


I'd just do a 1 can brew. You'll soon know if its too bitter for you or not.
Goodluck

:beer: 

Richard


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## delboy (15/2/06)

well its all down to taste in the end if you like mouth puckering bitterness then go with the whole can .
i my self have done it and i did not like that much bitterness but you can balance it of with a bit of lactose 

good luck 

let us know what happens

DELBOY :beer:


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## paulc (15/2/06)

Thanks all for your encouragement. The 11.5lt fermenter will do me for now. 
I'll have a crack at a full-can and let you know how it goes.


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## lpa (15/2/06)

G'day.

I've been using an 11.5l fermenter for six months now and for me it's kinda convenient size-wise cos you can stick it in the fridge withouth upsetting your wife, keep it cool easily in a big bucket thing (massive ice-cubes are the key) during fermentation, and carry it on your head for long walks with an appropriate fitting. AND do two can brews with one can. I've done it with a Blackrock wheat beer and the result was outstanding for a no-added-extras brew, and maybe cos it was a wheatie it didn't have any unpleasant bitterness. A little bit of dextrose (a cup) wouldn't hurt, and later on it's probably worth drying a bit of dry-malt extract and one of those crazy oversized tea-bags of hops, just to make it a little bit special. Sure, that might be overkill, but it's all in the name of science and drinking beer that doesn't taste of nothing. I split cans too and it's more fun that way cos of the potential for trying stuff as mentioned. Though I've become an alcoholic of late and will be upgrading to a 25l job soon, I plan to use the little one for racking/cold conditioning/bulk priming experiments.

Good to know there's another man with a little fermenter out there!

lpa


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## paulc (27/3/06)

Progress report:

Well I did a full can of Coopers Real Ale (didn't get out to the HBS - just went to the supermarket) and water. It was a warm day when I put it on, and I didn't get the temp. down as low as i'd like - probably around 26 degrees.

Anyway - it went off with a bang! Foam out of the airlock (and the lid). I think it finished fermenting in a couple days, but I ended up leaving it for 2 weeks. OG 1040, FG 1012. Bottles in PET bottles and primed with normal white sugar.

It's been in the bottle for a week ... can't wait to knock the top off one. :lol:


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## Foz (28/3/06)

Let us know how it turns out paulc!

I'm interested! Might go down to the supermarket and pick up a 15 litre water container. Then use this as a mini fermenter. Of course filling to only 11.5 litres. Sounds quick and easy!


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## RobboMC (28/3/06)

Forget adding sugar to CPA.

At very least add Brew Enhancer 2 as the side of the can says,
or for a better brew try half BE2 and half Dry Malt Extract.
This is a favourite of my drinking buddies.
A larger fermenter makes it easier to mix the additives like this, 
but if you must brew in 11.5 litres then 250 g DME and 250 g BE2.

I used BE1 once and it worked OK, but BE2 gives a better beer.
Try and leave it condition in the bottle for at least 3 months, very difficult I know. Brew twice as fast as you consume to build up stocks.

A good stock of sealable airtight plastic containers to store your left overs in will be a necessity.


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## paulc (3/4/06)

While waiting for my 'full tin; no sugar' Ale to mature in the bottle (2 weeks); I put down another 11.5lt batch. This time it was 1/2 tin of Cooopers Pale Ale, 500g BE2 and 1/2 packet of yeast. Got the temp pretty much spot on this time (21 degrees). 

I kept the other 1/2 tin in a sterilized glass jar, and have put it in the fridge. The rest of the yeast I have popped into the freezer.


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## pint of lager (3/4/06)

Don't store yeast in the freezer. There is a very good chance you will kill it. Store it in the yeast sachet in a sealed bag in the fridge. Also, once dried yeast packets are opened, the yeast quickly degrades due to exposure to oxygen, so use it sooner rather than later.

With the BE2, you want to make sure it is really well mixed, before using half of it. Am not sure what the ingredients are, but if it is a mix of maltodextrin and dextrose, you may end up with all maltodextrin in your brew, which will not ferment out very much. A better option would be to buy a kilo of DME and a kilo of dextrose. Use 250gms of DME and 250gms dextrose to a half a tin of Coopers made up to 11.5 litres. Although buying extra ingredients and mixing them up does negate the easiness of your original idea of just a single tin in an 11.5 litre brew.

The other concern about this method, is the kit of Coopers. Usually, these extract tins are bittered using ishops extracts which is added to the tin at canning. This will not have much of a chance to mix through the thick LME in the tin, and when you only use half the tin, you may or may not have the right amount of bittering in the fermenter.

I think, your best option is using a single tin made up to 11.5 litres as in your original brew. Stick to tins other people have found successful for twocan brews. Beers that are higher in IBU's such as bitters and some pale ales, will turn out too bitter when made up to 11.5 litres.


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## paulc (21/4/06)

Well, I sampled my 'full-can, no sugar' brew last night, and damn it was bitter. It was a Coopers Real Ale, and didn't taste anywhere near as nice as the Malt Shovel Larger that I used for the first batch. 

I might have to try a can that has a very low bitterness next time? Any suggestions? Maybe a draught or a blonde?


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## delboy (21/4/06)

Try using only half the tin of goo next time and half a tin of coopers un hopped malt extract only dont add any extra hops and use the whole sachet of a safale yeast .

thats my 2 bobs worth i experiment all the time .

just made up a tooheys tin of goo with one kilo DLM + 500 gms dex dry hopped with cascade in secondary and man it was nice after 3 weeks in the keg.
primed keg as well with 190 gms whit sugar.

del :beer:


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## BeerMat (21/4/06)

You can make a decent stout which will fit in your fermenter using a Coopers lager kit and some grain. Get 100g of roasted barley and 100g of amber crystal malt. Steep (ie. soak) the grain in 2 liters of 75 degree water for 30 minutes. Remove the grain (use a fine mesh strainer or something) and boil the liquid for a few minutes to kill any bugs. Turn off the heat and dissolve the kit of goo in the hot liquid. Put it in the fermenter, fill to 11 liters, pitch a decent yeast such as Safale S-04 and job done. This makes an OG 1.048, 44 IBU stout which is spot on for body and bitterness.


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