# Dry Hopping and Cold Crashing



## BKBrews (12/1/17)

Apologies if this has been covered, but I searched and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

How does everyone count the number of days they dry hop for? Do you count it as:

a) X days after putting them in the fermenter until the beer is racked to bottles/kegs, or
b) X days after putting them in the fermenter until you begin to cold crash

I have just bumped my brew that was fermenting at 18 up to 21 for a diacetyl rest as it is down to 1.017 from 1.042. For this one, I plan to let it reach terminal gravity prior to dry hopping. I will probably then dry hop, let sit for 3 days and then do a 2 day cold crash.


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## mtb (12/1/17)

I go option A, mostly because I believe cold crashing limits the effects of dry hopping.


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## BKBrews (12/1/17)

mtb said:


> I go option A, mostly because I believe cold crashing limits the effects of dry hopping.


Wouldn't that mean you use option b? You put them in for say 5 days and THEN cold crash. Option a is the camp who believe the 2 day cold crash is part of the 5 day dry hop.


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## mtb (12/1/17)

Yes BKBrews.. you're absolutely right. My dailysex dyslexia got the better of me.


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## barls (12/1/17)

cold crash then dry hop. this gets the yeast cell count down to reduce the hop oils being absorbed and dropped out with the yeast


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## labels (12/1/17)

BKBrews said:


> Apologies if this has been covered, but I searched and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.
> 
> How does everyone count the number of days they dry hop for? Do you count it as:
> 
> ...


It doesn't really matter if it reaches terminal gravity before you dry hop, in fact there are advantages to dry hop near the end rather than at the end and that is more CO2 will be produced after you refit your airlock.

Dry hopping has very little effect on very cold beer so it need to be done while the beer is warm, I usually do it for around 48-72 hours before dropping the temp. Some people use a hop bag or something similar and pull the hops out after they're done, I just chill down to 0C where they stop working and rack the beer to a keg when it's conditioned - about one week later - give or take.


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## BKBrews (12/1/17)

barls said:


> cold crash then dry hop. this gets the yeast cell count down to reduce the hop oils being absorbed and dropped out with the yeast


Mmmm just not sure about that one. Part of my theory about waiting until terminal gravity is that at least some of the yeast will be dropping out, compared to when I've added dry hops previously at around 1.020. Interesting though.


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## contrarian (12/1/17)

Is agree with barls here. The yeast will definitely absorb hop oils as well as other added flavours. We were having this discussion about oak in beer and the advice was that yeast will absorb up to 30% of the flavour compounds. 

Ideally you would probably finish fermentation, transfer to secondary add hops and allow to slowly warm up, add a few charges of dry hops at different times and then chill again before transfer to packaging. 

In reality I am way too lazy for that shit so I normally add them when I drop the temperature for 3+ days until I get around to kegging!


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## barls (12/1/17)

BKBrews said:


> Mmmm just not sure about that one. Part of my theory about waiting until terminal gravity is that at least some of the yeast will be dropping out, compared to when I've added dry hops previously at around 1.020. Interesting though.


its how it is done commercially, well at the brewery where i worked.
we use to reach fg then chill, yeast off and then dry hop.


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## BKBrews (12/1/17)

barls said:


> its how it is done commercially, well at the brewery where i worked.
> we use to reach fg then chill, yeast off and then dry hop.


When you say chill, do you mean a full crash down to like 1 degree? Or do you mean you used to drop the temp a little and then dry hop?

I'd be interested to try it for sure, but not on this batch. Learn something new every day though. Stuff like that makes me want a conical even more so I can dump yeast and trub.


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## barls (12/1/17)

nope it was drop to 1 then a day or so later was yeasted off and dry hopped.


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## BKBrews (12/1/17)

You would have been able to blast CO2 from the bottom and keep the hops in suspension though? I can see how it would work if you've already dumped the yeast and are able to keep the hops in suspension, but in a homebrew setup I feel like they'd just fall out and mix with the cake at the bottom, never to be seen again. I often find my dry hops buried in the layers of the cake after a cold crash.


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## barls (12/1/17)

blasting co2 through is a great way to strip hop flavour and aroma.


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## BKBrews (12/1/17)

barls said:


> blasting co2 through is a great way to strip hop flavour and aroma.


I've been doing a bit of reading and that's how some craft breweries are doing it. Can't tell you where I read that, but I read it in the last few days. Anyway it's an interesting concept, one that I will definitely try when I get a conical.


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## Brewnicorn (12/1/17)

Almost every thread I read here I learn something about process. Explains my hopless zero flavour IPA...


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## BKBrews (12/1/17)

Brewnicorn said:


> Almost every thread I read here I learn something about process. Explains my hopless zero flavour IPA...


Care to share how you've been doing it thus far?


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## Brewnicorn (12/1/17)

BKBrews said:


> Care to share how you've been doing it thus far?


Sure. I read up about cold crashing and I've only done it once so far since I got back into home brewing. 

I'd already dry hopped pre cold crash less than 12 hours) and then popped it in the fridge dropped out the yeast and bottled. The smell of the beer pre bottling was pretty nice, but evidently all in the aroma. 

FYI I'd also used Jarrylo hop pellets. I've got a tasteless IPA. The threads I'd read here and elsewhere didn't mention that yeast taking over hop oils nor the affect chilling has on hop aroma/flavour retention. Live and learn. Anyone in Melbourne was a tasteless IPA? Only 16 left...


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## lukasfab (13/1/17)

so dry hopping in the keg at serving temp does nothing?


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## Brewnicorn (13/1/17)

I can't speak for a legging process personally.


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## peteru (13/1/17)

lukasfab said:


> so dry hopping in the keg at serving temp does nothing?


It does plenty and quickly too.


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## contrarian (13/1/17)

I would think that if you had a tasteless IPA that you should be looking at your boil/whirlpool additions rather than dry hopping. Dry hopping should enhance this but it can't replace what should happen in the boil.


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## BKBrews (13/1/17)

contrarian said:


> I would think that if you had a tasteless IPA that you should be looking at your boil/whirlpool additions rather than dry hopping. Dry hopping should enhance this but it can't replace what should happen in the boil.


This is exactly what I was going to say. Dry hopping will add to your aroma, not your flavour. Look at adding more to your late hop additions to try and up the flavours.


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## damoninja (13/1/17)

barls said:


> cold crash then dry hop. this gets the yeast cell count down to reduce the hop oils being absorbed and dropped out with the yeast


Curious... I was always of the school that a warmer beer would release more of these oils, is there any merit to this? And if there is, doesn't disregard above as you say it's going to end up in yeast. 

My typical schedule is generally something like this: 

Dry hop, 5 days
Day 4-5, drop temp, takes ~24hrs
Gelatin, 24-48hrs

Would you suggest something more like this? 

Drop temp, takes ~24hrs
Gelatin, 24 hrs
Dry hop, 5 days


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## BrutusB (13/1/17)

Keep in mind also that different hops impart different flavors depending on the amount of time they are left in the FV when dry hopping. ie. Galaxy, well known for it's grassyness if left for too many days.

Edit: I just remembered this quote from Brewdog re. dry hopping that came out of the DIY dog, '..To get the best possible profile from the dry hops we recommend dry hopping post fermentation for 5 days. Dry hops should be added at cellar temperature. We find 14°C results in the most aromatic dry hop profile.'

Not saying they are the be all and end all but it's another approach.


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## BKBrews (13/1/17)

My dry hop for this brew is 55g Galaxy pellets, 40g Amarillo pellets and 40g Chinook flowers. This is my schedule so far:

Brew Saturday 07/01/2017. SG: 1.042
Pitch Yeast Sunday 08/01/2017 2am @ 18 degrees Celsius
Thursday 12/01/2017 8am gravity down to 1.017, temp bumped to 21 degrees for finish/diacetly rest
Friday morning 13/01/2017 likely finished - down to 1.010 as expected

Rest of the plan:
Leave at 21 until Sunday 15/01/2017 6pm and dry hop
Leave at 21 during dry hop
Wednesday 18/01/2017 6pm commence cold crash to 1 degree
Saturday 21/01/2017 morning rack to keg, put in keezer and start gassing.


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## Tony121 (13/1/17)

BKBrews said:


> My dry hop for this brew is 55g Galaxy pellets, 40g Amarillo pellets and 40g Chinook flowers. This is my schedule so far:
> 
> Brew Saturday 07/01/2017. SG: 1.042
> Pitch Yeast Sunday 08/01/2017 2am @ 18 degrees Celsius
> ...


Pretty much what I do, though I skip the diacetyl rest for ales. May try crashing then dry hopping 3-5 days after this discussion.


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## BKBrews (13/1/17)

Tony121 said:


> Pretty much what I do, though I skip the diacetyl rest for ales. May try crashing then dry hopping 3-5 days after this discussion.


I normally bump it up to 20 just to finish it out and dry hop, however my 2nd last batch (a golden ale) had a noticeable diacetyl/honey aroma and flavor. I realize this could have come from anywhere (the first few days in the keg were great), but I've done a bit of reading on it and decided the warmer temp for a few days can't hurt. Mind you, that batch was done with MJ yeast, which I have sworn to never use again.


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## TwoCrows (13/1/17)

MJ yeast which one? 

I used for the first time there M42 and is conditioning in bottle as we speak.

I heard good things with this particular strain.


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## barls (13/1/17)

if you are going to dry hop warm try some a few days before and see if you can notice the difference


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## damoninja (13/1/17)

barls said:


> if you are going to dry hop warm try some a few days before and see if you can notice the difference


I have room for 2 FVs in my fridge, when the weather's better for it, one day maybe I'll split a double batch, ferement both at same temp etc but dry hop one warm one crashed. 

Or suggest brulosophy do it............


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## BKBrews (13/1/17)

TwoCrows said:


> MJ yeast which one?
> 
> I used for the first time there M42 and is conditioning in bottle as we speak.
> 
> I heard good things with this particular strain.


I used M44. My Pirate Life clone came out pretty good, but the hop aroma in the keg faded pretty quickly and a hint of diacetyl took over. My golden ale on the same yeast tasted good for a very short period of time then smelt and tasted like honey (an offshoot of diacetyl from what I've read). That was the first and only time using M44 and had zero issues with US-05 prior, so I have switched back and will stay there.

Next time I do the Pirate Life I plan on using the White Labs California V Ale, with the same grain bill as this time and a slightly modified hop schedule (bigger dry hop and reduced early additions and more late). But I still wish I did my first one with US-05 instead of M44!


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## Dan Pratt (13/1/17)

I often dry hop my beers like this when using a single FV that isn't conical for yeast removal:

Ferment for 36-72hrs @ 18c
Raise temp 1c every 24hrs till I reach 22c ( basically 4days ) 
Terminal Gravity Reached
Drop temp to 17c - this will drop out the yeast from suspension
Add dry hops for 3-5days
Cold Crash to 4c for packaging

Ive found that you can add teh hops when there is about 3-5 points of gravity left, that way you have a c02 blanket whilst adding and addition co2 to remove the headspace o2 that is introduced when opening. It depends on the hops and yeast you use but that interaction can be great for some hops and not so great for others. 

One thing i agree completely on is losing hop oils to yeast, hence why i do that slight cold crash from 22c to 17c, this removes enough yeast to limit that.


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## contrarian (13/1/17)

I managed to find the old info about yeast and the advice was that it could absorb up to about 25% of flavour not the 30% I stated earlier in the thread. I would imagine most commercial breweries would yeast off before adding anything post ferment.


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (15/1/17)

As it happens, I am now doing a comparison between dry hopping with and without significant yeast activity. I usually split my ferments in two and run some sort of trial, on this latest batch I overpitched one and underpitched the other.

As of this morning the overpitched batch is finished but the other is not (diff is 0.3oP).

I have decanted the beer off the finished batch and put the other batch over the cake, hopefully it will catch up in a day or so.

I've also put equal amounts of dry hops in each batch, they'll each get four days total (two at 17 oC followed by two at 10 oC). I'm looking forward to seeing if there's a significant difference.

At present there's a small difference in ester profile, the overpitched batch is lower than the other but both are quite low, the yeast was treated with oleic acid to reduce ester formation and the wort was properly oxygenated. Hopefully time and the extra yeast will reduce the difference so it doesn't interfere too much.


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## IsonAd (23/1/17)

I do similar to pratty, dropping to about 16 deg to drop some yeast out then dry hop. Then cc for a few days before packaging. In my experience I think you get a different dryhop profile from cold v warm dry hop, so best to play around and see what suits you. The Epic pale ale clone uses both warm and cold dry hopping and produces an amazing aroma so there is merit in doing both warm and cold - also uses a shit tonne of hips in the whirlpool too so you never know...


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## manticle (23/1/17)

BKBrews said:


> This is exactly what I was going to say. Dry hopping will add to your aroma, not your flavour. Look at adding more to your late hop additions to try and up the flavours.



How does dry hopping not add to flavour?

Soak some hops in water overnight, drink the water and tell me there's no flavour change


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## Liam_snorkel (23/1/17)

BKBrews said:


> I used M44. My Pirate Life clone came out pretty good, but the hop aroma in the keg faded pretty quickly and a hint of diacetyl took over. My golden ale on the same yeast tasted good for a very short period of time then smelt and tasted like honey (an offshoot of diacetyl from what I've read). That was the first and only time using M44 and had zero issues with US-05 prior, so I have switched back and will stay there.
> 
> Next time I do the Pirate Life I plan on using the White Labs California V Ale, with the same grain bill as this time and a slightly modified hop schedule (bigger dry hop and reduced early additions and more late). But I still wish I did my first one with US-05 instead of M44!


I used M44 in an IPA recently and it tastes pretty good, certainly not lacking hops. What temperature did you ferment at? It seems to be pretty active even down at 17deg (which is what fermented the IPA at).


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## peteru (23/1/17)

Lyrebird_Cycles said:


> As it happens, I am now doing a comparison between dry hopping with and without significant yeast activity.


Any observations on this yet or too soon?


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (23/1/17)

They were bottled Saturday after 6 days dry hop: I was called away to Beechworth on days 4 and 5. Didn't seem to be much difference while I was bottling (apart fom turbidity).

I'll look at two samples on Wednesday, they'll be fully carbonated by then but not yet fully conditioned. I won't call that a definitive result but it should be interesting. You'll have to wait two weeks for them to be fully ready.


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## contrarian (23/1/17)

Was chatting to our friendly local brewer last week and he was telling us about a Vermont IPA he had brewed recently. 

Apparently the style involves dry hopping twice, once during active fermentation and once after it has finished. 

I'm no scientist it apparently there is an interaction between the hops and the yeast that results in different flavours that contributes a different quality. 

So it seems there is no right or wrong way, just different ways that produce different results.


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## Dan Pratt (24/1/17)

^ ^ that interaction of the hops with the yeast is only with particular strains of yeast, its called biotransformation of glycerol's ( i think....lol ) The yeast to use is Vermont Strain or Londan Ale 1318. these strains allow the hop oils to be transformed during the ferment.

I recently made a Northeast IPA with Vermont Strain and dry hopped twice. First during end of ferment, just as the krausen was dropping and again a few days later, excellent results for that yeast. :super:


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## Ferg (24/1/17)

Pratty1 said:


> ^ ^ that interaction of the hops with the yeast is only with particular strains of yeast, its called biotransformation of glycerol's ( i think....lol ) The yeast to use is Vermont Strain or Londan Ale 1318. these strains allow the hop oils to be transformed during the ferment.
> 
> I recently made a Northeast IPA with Vermont Strain and dry hopped twice. First during end of ferment, just as the krausen was dropping and again a few days later, excellent results for that yeast. :super:


I made a NEIPA just before Christmas, I couldn't get my hands on either of those strains so I took a punt on WLP023. I have absolutely no idea whether any biotransforming took place or not but it tastes pretty bloody good and the aroma is the best of any beer I've brewed to date. Doesn't look shit hot mind you!


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## manticle (24/1/17)

Nothing an expensive manicure couldn't put right, mate.


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## Liam_snorkel (24/1/17)

Pratty1 said:


> ^ ^ that interaction of the hops with the yeast is only with particular strains of yeast, its called biotransformation of glycerol's ( i think....lol ) The yeast to use is Vermont Strain or Londan Ale 1318. these strains allow the hop oils to be transformed during the ferment.


why only those two strains?


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## Dan Pratt (24/1/17)

^ it does happen with other strains but the amount of biotransformation has been found higher/better with those strains for some reason, not sure exactly why.


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## Liam_snorkel (24/1/17)

cheers, I'll do some googling. I've used the vermont strain a few times, good stuff


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (24/1/17)

Pratty1 said:


> ^ it does happen with other strains but the amount of biotransformation has been found higher/better with those strains for some reason, not sure exactly why.



Lots of compounds exist as glycosides, mostly flavourless. Yeasts have several glycosidase enzymes which can cleave the glycoside to a sugar and the aglycone which may be more flavourful. The activity in a given ferment depends on the glycosides present, the glycosidases active in the yeast and the conditions of ferment.

FWIW bushfre taint compounds are often glycosidically bound so it's not uncommon to have a juice that tastes clean (level below threshold) only for it to smell like it was used to clean a dirty ashtray half way through fermentation.


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## Dan Pratt (24/1/17)

My Northeast IPA with Vermont strain, double dry hopped

No boil finings, 18% rolled oats.

Cloudy and juicy as FK


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## IsonAd (24/1/17)

This came out today. Timely.....

http://brulosophy.com/2017/01/23/biotransformation-vs-standard-dry-hop-exbeeriment-results/


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## BKBrews (24/1/17)

Pratty1 said:


> My Northeast IPA with Vermont strain, double dry hopped
> 
> No boil finings, 18% rolled oats.
> 
> ...


Looks awesome - love the colour!


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## peteru (24/1/17)

It's funny how the yanks have their minds blown by having a tasty beer that is supposed to be cloudy. I guess they don't know about Coopers. One of their slogans used to be "Cloudy, but fine."

I am glad that they are getting some traction with this. The obsession with beer clarity has always seemed a bit misplaced to me. There are plenty of beers where I want some of the sediment in my glass.


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## Ferg (25/1/17)

Pratty1 said:


> My Northeast IPA with Vermont strain, double dry hopped
> 
> No boil finings, 18% rolled oats.
> 
> ...


What was your grain bill?

I went:
41% MO
41% Pale
18% Rolled Oats

Mine seems to be a lot darker.. It is a bit lighter than the photo suggests but definitely not as light as yours.


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## Dan Pratt (25/1/17)

Ferg said:


> What was your grain bill?
> 
> I went:
> 41% MO
> ...


I will start a seperate thread for the beer I made, very similar to your, same %'s 

malt bill was :

41% Pils
41% Ale
18% Rolled Oats

The lighting really helped this photo, its much cloudier and darker when not in captured lighting.


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## klangers (25/1/17)

I too dry hop post-cold crash. I found that the yeast activity and CO2 would strip out a lot of the flavor I was trying to add. I found the flavours/aromas a lot cleaner and more "forward" when dry hopping post cold crash.

Once I cold crash, my beers will never see temperatures >2 degrees. It's the best thing I've done for the longevity of the flavours in my brews.


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## Coodgee (25/1/17)

^really, i only ever dry hopped cold once. It was with galaxy and a recipe i had done before with a warm dry hop. I found the cold dry hop failed to extract any of the nice fruity aromas and just added astringency and vegetal flavors. Have not done it since


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (25/1/17)

peteru said:


> Any observations on this yet or too soon?


Looked at two bottled samples tonight. I thought there was a slight difference but I could have been kidding myself.

FWIW I preferred the version with the hops added before ferment finished, I thought it was slightly more integrated and had better mouthfeel.


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## peteru (26/1/17)

Thanks for reporting back. The minimal difference could be a factor of the ferment hops having a few more days to integrate. I guess given another few weeks, any such difference would be negligible. Interested to hear your reports from any future taste comparisons.


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (26/1/17)

They've both had the same amount of time at the same temperatures, one ferment was slower (underpitched). The textural difference could simply be the yeast.


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## Mardoo (26/1/17)

Ferment-temp and cold dry hop bring out different characteristics in my experience. For instance, NZ Cascade showed a lot of fruit flavour from DH at ferment temp, and floral flavours from a cold DH. In my experience it just takes a whole lot of trials to work out what flavours come from which DH temp.

FWIW I've shifted cold DH over to keg hopping and rarely cold DH in the fermenter anymore. I've read interviews where some of the top quality brewers - Mitch Steele and Vinnie Cilurzo - have mentioned using ferment-temp and cold DH to achieve different results. Wish I had bookmarked them.


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## Coodgee (1/2/17)

I have been filtering my beers for ages but have decided to go back to using gelatin. It just adds so much to the process to filter the beer that I don't think it's worth it anymore. Do people use hop bags for their dry hopping or just throw them in loose? If the latter, how do you stop getting hop floaties in your keg/glass? Particularly for the case of a 100-200 gram IPA dry hop? 

My process has been for so long: primary ferment till terminal gravity reached. Rack to a cube and add dry hops @ ferment temp for 3 days. Cold crash to 0 degrees for 48 hours. treat with polyclar and filter into the keg. The problem is with all this effort I was only getting crystal clear beer about 50% of the time and often ended up with clogged filters/dip tubes and 3-hour kegging/swearing events. I want to simplify my process to primary ferment until terminal gravity, add dry hops for 3 days, cold crash, add 1/2 teaspoon of gelatin, keg after 48 more hours. Just need to solve the floaty issue. It seems like the hop bag will negate the gelatin a bit because it will fall/move while the fermenter is draining and stir up the yeast/trub. edit: maybe I could create a little hop "cage" with the stuff they make hop spiders out of. Then the cage sits fixed on the bottom of the fermenter the whole time.


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## razz (1/2/17)

Hey Coodgee, I haven't used PVPP for a while but when I did I never had an issue with floaties. I filtered a dry hopped beer on Sunday and didn't get any clogging issues at all and the filter when back flushed gave me a creamy green looking water with tiny particles. PVPP coats everything and drags it to the bottom of the fermenter.
For dry hopping, without filtering, I chuck them in loose for about 3-4 days at ferment temp and then crash chill to 3-4 degrees and then keg. I do get some sediment in the bottom of the keg but mostly clear beer and definitely no floaties.
If I used a hop bag I would tie it off so it can get lifted out before kegging. I haven't been all that impressed with my dry hopping of late so I'm going to spend the hops in whirlpooling and do a few trials.


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## BKBrews (1/2/17)

Coodgee said:


> I have been filtering my beers for ages but have decided to go back to using gelatin. It just adds so much to the process to filter the beer that I don't think it's worth it anymore. Do people use hop bags for their dry hopping or just throw them in loose? If the latter, how do you stop getting hop floaties in your keg/glass? Particularly for the case of a 100-200 gram IPA dry hop?
> 
> My process has been for so long: primary ferment till terminal gravity reached. Rack to a cube and add dry hops @ ferment temp for 3 days. Cold crash to 0 degrees for 48 hours. treat with polyclar and filter into the keg. The problem is with all this effort I was only getting crystal clear beer about 50% of the time and often ended up with clogged filters/dip tubes and 3-hour kegging/swearing events. I want to simplify my process to primary ferment until terminal gravity, add dry hops for 3 days, cold crash, add 1/2 teaspoon of gelatin, keg after 48 more hours. Just need to solve the floaty issue. It seems like the hop bag will negate the gelatin a bit because it will fall/move while the fermenter is draining and stir up the yeast/trub. edit: maybe I could create a little hop "cage" with the stuff they make hop spiders out of. Then the cage sits fixed on the bottom of the fermenter the whole time.


I dry hop loose in my primary and have never had an issue with hops in my kegs (biggest dry hop was 150g). In fact, never even had hops make their way into my kegs. I cold crash for 24 - 48 hours and the hops always compact well into the yeast cake. I never use finings either.

I don't know what type of fermenters you use, but a good trick I have found is to run off the first 200 - 500ml into a glass as you're about to transfer. This ensures that any yeast/hops that have settled in the tap do not make their way to the keg. Once you've done this, the rest of the sediment is left behind at the bottom.


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## Liam_snorkel (1/2/17)

try cold crashing for a few days minimum instead of 48hr.


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## Coodgee (1/2/17)

I think my issue with loose hops might of been because I was dry hopping in a secondary cube with minimal trub for the hops to settle into.


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## EalingDrop (1/2/17)

barls said:


> cold crash then dry hop. this gets the yeast cell count down to reduce the hop oils being absorbed and dropped out with the yeast


Does this involve transferring to a secondary after the cold crash? or can you do it in the primary? i.e Hops sitting on top of the yeast bed.


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## lost at sea (1/2/17)

i commando everything, from bittering through to dry hoping (even my undies). my personal opinion is that hop socks or whatever dont allow for the full extraction of the good stuff, i prefer the hops going right into the raging boil 
i BIAB-NC and use the slow hoist method, brew brite and whirlpool the hell out of my wort, let it settle for 20 mins or so, then dump onto cube hops. which is usually 23L in the cube, and 22L into fermenter. 19L into the keg means i only transfer clear beer. 

i also warm dry-hop usually, then cold crash for min 3-4 days which gets it nice and compacted on the bottom.

ive never had an issue with hop debris in my kegs yet.

note i only brew ales, not a lager brewer really so absolute clarity is not a big concern of mine


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## Liam_snorkel (1/2/17)

same here pretty much.

when the beer clears up you know the keg is almost empty


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## Kingy (1/2/17)

Liam_snorkel said:


> same here pretty much.
> 
> when the beer clears up you know the keg is almost empty


Haha that happened to me yesterday, I said to the misses, "check out how clear this schooner is" 
off she goes to get one and psssssh no more left hahaha.


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## Coodgee (1/2/17)

at what point do people have the fermenter up above keg height for transfer? Before cold crash or just before the transfer?


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## Dan Pratt (1/2/17)

After cold crash I lift mine out of the fridge onto the bench. No issues with any disturbance on the yeast cake or hop debris.


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