# Cheap Temperature Controller... Which One?



## michael_aussie (3/9/10)

I've decided to bit the bullet and buy a few (4?).

The best options I can see are:

Aquarium All-purpose Temperature Controller STC-100
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:X:RTQ:US:1123
seller = j16188
$25USD including shipping each for 4 = $27.75AUD each

or

Mini Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Aquarium
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123
seller = quality_link2000
17.50GBP including shipping each for 4 = $29.77AUD each

I have heard the STC-100 mentioned a few times by others here.
Are they any good?? Any problems??
Has anyone purchased off this seller (j16188)??

Has anyone seen/heard of this alternative unit??
Has anyone purchased off this seller (quality_link2000)??

Does anyone have a similiar option less than $30??


----------



## felon (3/9/10)

I have 2 STC-100's. Never had a problem with them. Got them from quality_link2000. Postage took about 2 weeks to arrive at my door.


----------



## rendo (3/9/10)

Hey Mike

The firs link is an STC-100 and the second link in an STC-1000.....the 1000 is much better than the one hundred, given the small difference in price it is a no brainer.(http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123) I bought from qualitylink, no issues. Of course the best issue free way is to buy from our sponsors as you will get extreme service, but i did buy from quality dude and I was happy with the seller and extremely happy with the product.

Dont let me find out u bought the cheaper one!! haha....

Not to mention that qualitylink has 100% positive feedback and the other one doesnt. Also the cheaper one doesnt mention if it comes with a sensor or if it doesnt OR what type of sensor. Convinced u enough. The cost difference in the two (even when buying four) is less than a kilo of LDME or less than 100g of hops.....

Rendo




michael_aussie said:


> I've decided to bit the bullet and buy a few (4?).
> The best options I can see are:


----------



## felon (3/9/10)

Sorry. I didn't open the links but i have the STC-1000 models not the 100.


----------



## Screwtop (3/9/10)

Does the STC 100 have the heating and cooling function or only cooling?

This one plainly does : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123

Screwy


----------



## np1962 (3/9/10)

Screwtop said:


> Does the STC 100 have the heating and cooling function or only cooling?
> 
> This one plainly does : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123
> 
> Screwy


Screwy,
Yes it does, BUT the 1000 will control up to 99C whereas the 100 is up to 70C
IMO the 1000 is the way to go with such a small difference in the price.
Cheers
Nige


----------



## Screwtop (3/9/10)

NigeP62 said:


> Screwy,
> Yes it does, BUT the 1000 will control up to 99C whereas the 100 is up to 70C
> IMO the 1000 is the way to go with such a small difference in the price.
> Cheers
> Nige




Thanks Nige,

Screwy


----------



## zabond (3/9/10)

definatly the ST1000 top unit down to .1*diff, got mine from techex-online[fleabay] bit dearer $37au but here in 6 days


----------



## michael_aussie (3/9/10)

rendo said:


> Hey Mike
> 
> The firs link is an STC-100 and the second link in an STC-1000.....the 1000 is much better than the one hundred, given the small difference in price it is a no brainer.(http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...E:X:RTQ:GB:1123) I bought from qualitylink, no issues. Of course the best issue free way is to buy from our sponsors as you will get extreme service, but i did buy from quality dude and I was happy with the seller and extremely happy with the product.
> 
> ...



Thank you so much guys, especially Rendo.
I appreciate your input, and love this forum.
Looks like I'll be ordering from qualitylink tonight.


----------



## sydneyhappyhour (3/9/10)

I brought one which arrived yesterday arvo brought it from quality_link2000 also. 10 days delivery time from Hong Kong so not too bad, looks like a great little item, just about to head out to Jaycar to find a box to house it in.


----------



## leonjw (3/9/10)

I've got the stc-1000s and they work well for fermenting, i am soon to try one for heating the mash water


----------



## Wolfy (3/9/10)

michael_aussie said:


> Looks like I'll be ordering from qualitylink tonight.


That would be my choice also (the one I have here works great).
However, don't forget that PayPal's conversion rate and fees make the price a little less attractive if you are paying in a currency other than AUD, the UK price might be slightly cheaper, but then you have to add the conversion and charges. So visit the vendors store and check they don't offer the same item in multiple currencies.


----------



## Flash_DG (3/9/10)

Wolfy said:


> That would be my choice also (the one I have here works great).
> However, don't forget that PayPal's conversion rate and fees make the price a little less attractive if you are paying in a currency other than AUD, the UK price might be slightly cheaper, but then you have to add the conversion and charges. So visit the vendors store and check they don't offer the same item in multiple currencies.



Like so...http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item4152571655


----------



## cdbrown (3/9/10)

Flash_DG said:


> Like so...http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item4152571655



Just bought 2 of them the other day, one for a new (old) ferment fridge and one to check temp of esky or other spots.


----------



## sydneyhappyhour (4/9/10)

Wired mine up this afternoon they seem to be a great unit so far!

The Insides:
http://twitpic.com/2kqqw0

The front:
http://twitpic.com/2krb77


----------



## Silo Ted (4/9/10)

so did you wire up the heating and cooling to one female input? 

I got an STC1000 from quality link and I have to say the turn around was about five days to my PO box. Haven't wired it up yet - waiting for a technician friend to give me guidance to be on the safe side.


----------



## sydneyhappyhour (4/9/10)

Silo Ted said:


> so did you wire up the heating and cooling to one female input?
> 
> I got an STC1000 from quality link and I have to say the turn around was about five days to my PO box. Haven't wired it up yet - waiting for a technician friend to give me guidance to be on the safe side.


No I only wired up the cooling circuit, I am just using it as a temp controller for my keg freezer. You should be right to wire it up yourself only thing I can recommend is using one of those terminator strips for the wires. The one on my fermentation fridge I soldered and covered with duct tape and it was a major pain in the arse when compared with putting this one together. :icon_cheers:


----------



## rendo (4/9/10)

10 days delivery is pretty good hey, but isnt it amazing how long that 10 days can feel like when you are awaiting the delivery of your new toy....10days is like a year



sydneyhappyhour said:


> I brought one which arrived yesterday arvo brought it from quality_link2000 also. 10 days delivery time from Hong Kong so not too bad, looks like a great little item, just about to head out to Jaycar to find a box to house it in.


----------



## michael_aussie (4/9/10)

Wolfy said:


> That would be my choice also (the one I have here works great).
> However, don't forget that PayPal's conversion rate and fees make the price a little less attractive if you are paying in a currency other than AUD, the UK price might be slightly cheaper, but then you have to add the conversion and charges. So visit the vendors store and check they don't offer the same item in multiple currencies.


Hi Guys,

Just a quick follow-up question in regards to your comments about paypal charges.

I didn't realise that paypal would charge for a conversion, I just assumed my bank would do the conversion and charge me their usual rate.
After seeing your postings, I asked the ebay seller for a price in AUD. They were 7.5% more than their GBP price.
I assumed this was excessive, until I started fishing trying to see exactly what paypal would charge me.
I have since read all sorts of horror stories from customers screwed by paypal.
What I wasn't able to determine exactly what paypal would charge when you are buying in a different currency that your "home" currency. It looks like it might range from 2.5% to 7.5%.

Does anyone know were I could find what paypal will charge or do you know what it will be?

I'm not particularly concerned about a few dollars for this transaction, but I would like to know all the facts for the future.

Thankyou,

Michael


----------



## Wolfy (4/9/10)

I just replied to your PM asking exactly the same thing, but just in-case others were wondering.
As about 2-3 weeks ago, the PayPal AUD to GBP conversion was 1 AUD = 0.54 GBP, or you'd need 1.85 AUD for each GBP.

*Edit*, the last time I purchased something from the UK was on the 23rd August, and this is the PayPal info: 
Exchange rate: 1 Australian Dollar = 0.556438 British Pounds


----------



## michael_aussie (4/9/10)

Wolfy said:


> I just replied to your PM asking exactly the same thing, but just in-case others were wondering.
> As about 2-3 weeks ago, the PayPal AUD to GBP conversion was 1 AUD = 0.54 GBP, or you'd need 1.85 AUD for each GBP.



lol I just replied in PM to your PM reply.
For completeness I'll post my reply here too.

Thankyou for that.
That roughly equates to a 7.5% fee which is robbery.
Based on that I'll definitely buy in AUD.
I'd rather my seller get the extra money than paypal.
Ragards,
Michael​


----------



## cdbrown (4/9/10)

Definitely mate - do your searches through the au ebay site. Alot of international sellers have international accounts so no transfer fees.


----------



## seemax (4/9/10)

Also purchased a STC-1000 from qualitylink, arrived in 7 days from HK.

Once you buy an extension cord and other bits it's closer to $50. Works perfectly though. I ended up housing it in a decor container with a slot cutout as per one of the previous posts.


----------



## rude (5/9/10)

Hey read this thread & just bought one so now I'm off to see about this all fridge tomorrow for $50 hope its a gooden

Thanks to all here who pointed me in the right direction


----------



## kelbygreen (5/9/10)

I have 2 now. the cases are not fancy one is in a ice cream box and one is in a 1kg nail box lol. first one had no box for about 3 months


----------



## Silo Ted (5/9/10)

> I ended up housing it in a decor container with a slot cutout as per one of the previous posts.



You could spend four dollars on a tupperware style container, or for $8 get a great little black jiffy box from Jaycar. Bit of a bastard to drill, cut and file but makes the unit look that little bit more professional. I added hi-fil speaker terminals to the front panel too for easy attachment of the sensor for when I ever want to change over to an SS probe. Wiring not done yet but I am also going to mount a male 240v PC power supply socket for power in, and a fascia mounted 3 pin female socket for plugging in the device. Just a question on that last one. can I wire in a light switch to change between heating and cooling, instead of having to mount a second female socket?


----------



## Scruffy (5/9/10)

No.


----------



## Scruffy (5/9/10)

...and if you have to ask why, PM lethal corpse...


Actually, it's not that bad... just leave the option out... so when it switches, nothing happens.


----------



## michael_aussie (5/9/10)

Silo Ted said:


> You could spend four dollars on a tupperware style container, or for $8 get a great little black jiffy box from Jaycar. Bit of a bastard to drill, cut and file but makes the unit look that little bit more professional. I added hi-fil speaker terminals to the front panel too for easy attachment of the sensor for when I ever want to change over to an SS probe. Wiring not done yet but I am also going to mount a male 240v PC power supply socket for power in, and a fascia mounted 3 pin female socket for plugging in the device. Just a question on that last one. can I wire in a light switch to change between heating and cooling, instead of having to mount a second female socket?


The simple answer to your question about using a switch and one female socket is "yes" you can.
I'm not sure exactly WHY you would want to do this. The cost of a switch (would need to be double pole) verses a second female socket negate the cost consideration. However, if you really want to, contact me and I'll send you a wiring diagram. Just a word of warning, if you aren't 100% on electricity, then I would seriously warn again doing this. You could fry your controller, or even worse yourself, if you don't get this right.
I suggest you stick to the simpler and safer one socket per output.


----------



## tavas (5/9/10)

Silo Ted said:


> Just a question on that last one. can I wire in a light switch to change between heating and cooling, instead of having to mount a second female socket?



Why do you want a switch to change betwen heating and cooling? The unit has two outputs so doesn't it automatically switch between the two?


----------



## michael_aussie (5/9/10)

Silo Ted said:


> Just a question on that last one. can I wire in a light switch to change between heating and cooling, instead of having to mount a second female socket?






michael_aussie said:


> The simple answer to your question about using a switch and one female socket is "yes" you can.
> I'm not sure exactly WHY you would want to do this. The cost of a switch (would need to be double pole) verses a second female socket negate the cost consideration. However, if you really want to, contact me and I'll send you a wiring diagram. Just a word of warning, if you aren't 100% on electricity, then I would seriously warn again doing this. You could fry your controller, or even worse yourself, if you don't get this right.
> I suggest you stick to the simpler and safer one socket per output.






tavas said:


> Why do you want a switch to change betwen heating and cooling? The unit has two outputs so doesn't it automatically switch between the two?



Silo wants to connect the two outputs from the controller to a single outlet via a switch.
I'm guessing that in his application he is only heating or cooling, and never needs to heat AND cool.
Therefore Silo is asking if he can use a switch connected to both outputs, and connect this to a single socket.

Once again, yes he can, but no he shouldn't unless there is a really special reason why he needs to.


----------



## tavas (5/9/10)

michael_aussie said:


> Silo wants to connect the two outputs from the controller to a single outlet via a switch.
> I'm guessing that in his application he is only heating or cooling, and never needs to heat AND cool.
> Therefore Silo is asking if he can use a switch connected to both outputs, and connect this to a single socket.
> 
> Once again, yes he can, but no he shouldn't unless there is a really special reason why he needs to.



Oh OK. Not enirely sure why you'd do it that way though, given the amount of work he has put into making it neat. A female socket costs like $4, and you'd still have to physically unplug the cooling unit and plug in the heating unit AND switch it when you changeover. 

I appreciate people's ingenuity, but it seems an overly complicated way of doing a simple task. Wire in two sockets, plug in heating and cooling device. Leave it alone and let the controller do what it's supposed to do and switch between the two as required. The output not being used doesn't have power through it when not being used.

People should remember this is 240V at 10A. Not 12 V or 4-20mA. This shit kills without bias.

I agree with you michael. Don't do it. There is *no reason* to.

I feel a Lethal Corpse paddlin' acoming.


----------



## michael_aussie (5/9/10)

Just as a naughty aside, I laugh at the male/female terminology of electrical connections



Silo Ted said:


> ........instead of having to mount a second female socket?



I'd love the chance to mount a second female socket. I'm not too sure the wife would be so happy. I think she prefers a single socket plug.


----------



## woodwormm (10/9/10)

my stc100 is awesome,

mounted it in a black jiffy box with two female sockets, one each side (slimline so they're same height as box)

question though.... i struggled getting the orange retaining clips of the controller to tighten down on the 2-3mm wall thickness of the jiffy, to me it looks like they don't go smaller than about 10mm... i ended up supergluing and aralditing it in.... bit dodgy but it is holding... 

brilliant product. my brewing is much better for the temp control.


----------



## michael_aussie (18/9/10)

I have purchased 4 off qualitylink. $128AUD including postage.
They have been very easy to deal with so far. 
As suggested I purchased in Aussie Dollars to eliminate the currency exchange issues (when I googled this, MANY have had problems with paypal over the top costs).
I am now sitting like a kid counting down the days to Christmas waiting for my package.


----------



## Ade42 (18/9/10)

My Temp controller cost something like 30$ plus an extension cord which I cut in half. 

Yep its the newer Tempmaster from jaycar, 

I know that people seem to rubbish it a lot, but as an electronics engineer (used to be) I can't falt it for its simplicity,
Ive had mine running for about a year on "heat" and now ive had it on a Fridge on the cool mode, the actual temp control is a bit tricky to set up, you need a Digital multi meter ( under 15$) you look at voltages and turn a knob to the right "temp" sounds a bit tricky but its all easy. Ive jazzed mine up somewhat so the heat/cool switched are external real switches that are iluminated so i don't forget what its set to do, and im working on an external "pot" for the actual control, If I had the cash id splurge for one of the temp controllers mentioned in this thread, but if you are on a budget and don't mind a bit of fiddling the results are SPOT ON! ive been monitoring the actual temp in relation to the temp i set the kit at and its pretty clear that the kit has the goods.


----------



## michael_aussie (23/9/10)

After my paypal account was cleared, quality_link2000 mailed the controllers.
I received in 6 days from Hong Kong.
I would recommend quality_link2000 on ebay and the controllers look good. 

STC1000

I was surprised how physicially small they are.


----------



## Wolfy (24/9/10)

michael_aussie said:


> I was surprised how physicially small they are.


Yup, they are tiny. Mine lives in a small lunch-box.


----------



## JestersDarts (24/9/10)

I have bought three controllers from quality_link, on two seperate occassions. Great service, price, product all round.


----------



## beerbog (24/9/10)

michael_aussie said:


> After my paypal account was cleared, quality_link2000 mailed the controllers.
> I received in 6 days from Hong Kong.
> I would recommend quality_link2000 on ebay and the controllers look good.
> 
> ...



STC - 1000 controller works a treat. :beerbang:


----------



## oddsulli (26/9/10)

Hi all,

Could someone post a wiring diagram or a photo of the wiring for the STC 1000? I bought one the other day but found the instructions a bit confusing and for obvious reasons want to get it right. Will hook it up to a fridge and a heat pad so will need both sides.

Any help would be great
Thanks,
Todd


----------



## Wolfy (26/9/10)

Odd1 said:


> Could someone post a wiring diagram or a photo of the wiring for the STC 1000? I bought one the other day but found the instructions a bit confusing and for obvious reasons want to get it right. Will hook it up to a fridge and a heat pad so will need both sides.


In all honesty, if you can't understand the instructions that were supplied with the unit, you are _much _better getting someone more qualified to install it for you.
You really should have a qualified electrician to do it, since it's playing with 240V and essentially risking your life.


----------



## np1962 (26/9/10)

Wolfy said:


> In all honesty, if you can't understand the instructions that were supplied with the unit, you are _much _better getting someone more qualified to install it for you.
> You really should have a qualified electrician to do it, since it's playing with 240V and essentially risking your life.


A LethalCorpse in Wolfy's clothing  

True enough statement though.


----------



## edddy57 (26/9/10)

Gibbo1 said:


> STC - 1000 controller works a treat. :beerbang:




I vouch for the STC 1000 ... just over a week from Hong Kong and with postage around $30 bucks. Connect to fridge and heating belt at same time which is great if trying to keep the brew at 11 - 12 degrees when overnight ambient temp is low.

Need to purchase a couple of short extension cords and there is a bit of wiring. Mines in a lunch box as well


----------



## michael_aussie (26/9/10)

Wolfy said:


> In all honesty, if you can't understand the instructions that were supplied with the unit, you are _much _better getting someone more qualified to install it for you.
> You really should have a qualified electrician to do it, since it's playing with 240V and essentially risking your life.


Hi Odd1,
The instructions that come with the unit are fine for someone who knows what they are doing.
If you take these instructions to a sparkie mate he'll have you going in less than an hour.
The most time consuming part will be the actual mounting of the controller in an enclosure. 
Maybe you could do that part, and leave the dangerous stuff to someone who understands.


----------



## leiothrix (27/9/10)

+1

cutting square (err, rectangular) holes is a pain in the arse.

dremel really helps though.

rob.


----------



## Ade42 (27/9/10)

Ive been looking at quality_link2000 stuff for a couple of hours now and can not find any mention of stc - 1000 would prefer that one than the 100, can anyone send me a current working link for the 1000 version?


----------



## wood88 (27/9/10)

Here you go:
Diagram


Odd1 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Could someone post a wiring diagram or a photo of the wiring for the STC 1000? I bought one the other day but found the instructions a bit confusing and for obvious reasons want to get it right. Will hook it up to a fridge and a heat pad so will need both sides.
> 
> ...


----------



## michael_aussie (27/9/10)

Flash_DG said:


> Like so...http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item4152571655


This link from Flash is for a STC1000 from quality_link2000 in AUD.


----------



## Ade42 (27/9/10)

Thanks mate, Had no idea these cooled AS WELL as heated automatically!!


----------



## oddsulli (29/9/10)

Wood88,

Thanks very much.
Done and sorted and with minimal fuss now have everything operational.
Works fantastic and is keeping the first brew +/- 0.5 degree of set point. Great little unit.


----------



## samhaldane (13/10/10)

I bought an STC-1000 and wired it up last night. I'm yet to use it for a brew but it seems to work well.

I mounted it in this case from Jaycar. Just needed to drill a few holes in the back plate and it looks really nice and neat.

One thing to note is that I found that the compressor delay units are 20 seconds instead of 1 minute on my controller (e.g. a compressor delay of 3 was causing a 1 minute delay, a delay of 4 would be 1m20s etc).


----------



## mchitiea (14/10/10)

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_p...roducts_id=2117


----------



## QldKev (14/10/10)

mchitiea said:


> http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_p...roducts_id=2117



Isn't that a 120v with a US plug?

QldKev


----------



## michael_aussie (16/10/10)

mchitiea said:


> http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_p...roducts_id=2117






QldKev said:


> Isn't that a 120v with a US plug?
> 
> QldKev




Yes Kev, I'm not sure why mchitiea is wasting his time posting here. If you buy that item you can't use it here.

SPECIFICATIONS:

LOAD: 16 full load amps @ 120Vac
RANGE: +30^ F to +110^ F (+ - 2^ accuracy)
DIFFERENTIAL: 2^
Nickel plated copper probe
This portable thermostat will handle almost any 120volt heater with no problem or an 8,000 btu air conditioner BUT CHECK YOUR APPLIANCES RATINGS FIRST.

Componants made in USA. Assembled and tested in USA.​And as Kev correctly noted a USA plug.


----------



## hoohaaman (16/10/10)

michael_aussie said:


> Yes Kev, I'm not sure why mchitiea is wasting his time posting here. If you buy that item you can't use it here.
> 
> SPECIFICATIONS:
> 
> ...



Maybe some of us can take advantage of near parity and enjoy his other bargains.Maybe some also have other 110-120v equipment we already run.


----------



## rude (17/10/10)

One thing to note is that I found that the compressor delay units are 20 seconds instead of 1 minute on my controller (e.g. a compressor delay of 3 was causing a 1 minute delay, a delay of 4 would be 1m20s etc).

I just went the 10 there max delay havent fermented yet either hmmm still to put in a 150w heater

Oh to have perfect temp stability


----------



## rude (17/10/10)

One thing to note is that I found that the compressor delay units are 20 seconds instead of 1 minute on my controller (e.g. a compressor delay of 3 was causing a 1 minute delay, a delay of 4 would be 1m20s etc).

I just went the 10 there max delay havent fermented yet either hmmm still to put in a 150w heater

Oh to have perfect temp stability


----------



## [email protected] (17/10/10)

Just Thought i'd show off my 3 that control my HERMS system
I have a dedicated 20A socked in the garage feeding this as i have 2 2200 Watt elements running off it.


----------



## Ivan Other One (17/10/10)

At the risk of asking an idiotic question,, :huh: I'll do it anyhow,,,,,,

Has anybody done the research into how much power is consumed by a fridge with a tempright, compared to one without it? 

I was thinkin that a tempright fridge set at say,,,,,18C would not be working as hard as one running normally.

Just weighing up the options of getting one of these setups compared to using a non-working fridge with bottles of ice for fermeter temp control..


----------



## waggastew (17/10/10)

From my understanding the tempmate only turns on the fridge when the temp gets too high. Therefore, as long as you have it set higher than 4degC it will use less electricity than under normal conditions. If you are fermenting an ale at 18degC it should use much less.

I am in the process of swtiching from ice bottled to a fridge/temp/mate/right etc. The cost of running the fridge will be offset somewhat by the power that used to be used freezing the ice bottles for my old system. Add to that the time spent changing bottles and the ability to ferment lager outside June/July and its a no brainer for me.



Ivan Other One said:


> At the risk of asking an idiotic question,, :huh: I'll do it anyhow,,,,,,
> 
> Has anybody done the research into how much power is consumed by a fridge with a tempright, compared to one without it?
> 
> ...


----------



## QldKev (17/10/10)

slagster said:


> Just Thought i'd show off my 3 that control my HERMS system
> I have a dedicated 20A socked in the garage feeding this as i have 2 2200 Watt elements running off it.
> 
> View attachment 41450
> ...




Nice and neat setup. Wish I had a dedicated 20amp line. Only question I have is you have a fan to turn over air, which is an excellent idea, but where does the air exit? 

QldKev


----------



## Ivan Other One (17/10/10)

waggastew said:


> From my understanding the tempmate only turns on the fridge when the temp gets too high. Therefore, as long as you have it set higher than 4degC it will use less electricity than under normal conditions. If you are fermenting an ale at 18degC it should use much less.
> 
> I am in the process of swtiching from ice bottled to a fridge/temp/mate/right etc. The cost of running the fridge will be offset somewhat by the power that used to be used freezing the ice bottles for my old system. Add to that the time spent changing bottles and the ability to ferment lager outside June/July and its a no brainer for me.


Yep,, Was thinking along the same lines as far as running costs go.

Also the convenience of a set and forget system would be far better than constantly changing ice bottles(PITA).

Cheers Mate.


----------



## [email protected] (17/10/10)

QldKev said:


> Nice and neat setup. Wish I had a dedicated 20amp line. Only question I have is you have a fan to turn over air, which is an excellent idea, but where does the air exit?
> 
> QldKev



Good question, i had actually purchased 2 fans one to draw air in and one to push air out but the second doesn't fit. So at present the fan and pushing air out and air is being sucked in from gaps around the switches and temp controllers. But you just gave me an idea of just cutting another hole and putting the second fan air filter cover over it so air can be drawn in from there.


----------



## dr K (17/10/10)

What you find is these temperature controllers don't work and neither does your fridge or the light or whatever you use to heat it.
They sit there drawing 3 W of power.
I have about 3 running fridges and most of the time they are neither heating nor cooling and this is with a 0.5C dtemperature differnce , ie 1C range, during rapid early fermentation the fridge might kick on very occasionally and towards the end the light might, but thats about it. Closed sytems and screw all power !!

K


----------



## michael_aussie (18/10/10)

Ivan Other One said:


> At the risk of asking an idiotic question,, :huh: I'll do it anyhow,,,,,,
> 
> Has anybody done the research into how much power is consumed by a fridge with a tempright, compared to one without it?
> 
> ...



I don't think that's an idiotic question Ivan.

I haven't done any research, but I'll bet my left one on two statements:

1. A fridge running on an external controller at 18C will use less juice than the same fridge running normally at a lower temperature. The amount of power consumed is directly related to the difference between the ambient temp and the temperature you want in your fridge. The bigger the difference, the more power this takes. How you control your fridge will have negligible impact. 

2. Using an existing freezer to generate ice versus running a separate old fridge with a controller is a different matter. This will depend on the efficiency of your existing freezer versus the efficiency of the fermenter fridge. However, transferring ice is a difficult way to achieve the accuracy in temperature control that you will get with a dedicated controller, not to mention the pain in the arse factor in having to check temperatures and transfer ice all the time. A no brainer in my book. If the fermenter fridge works splash out and get a temperature controller to achieve the temperature you are chasing.


----------



## QldKev (18/10/10)

michael_aussie said:


> I don't think that's an idiotic question Ivan.
> 
> I haven't done any research, but I'll bet my left one on two statements:
> 
> ...



Agree with Michael's feeedback but would like to add with point 2. I think there will be additional energy (coolness) lost every time you open the freezer door to get your ice out; and then the fridge/cool box to add the ice. So based on this additional info, I believe a dead fridge with ice block would work out to be more inefficient.

As michael also mentioned the other benefit of using a decent fridge/freezer with a controller is a more constant temp, and no hit n miss temperature game with manually screwing around with ice. These last 2 points alone make my decision. 

Kev


----------

