# Stc 1000 In Pictures



## Wolfy

*Note:*
*If the STC 1000 will be connected to a power-point and used to control a Fridge, HLT or similar, it is a legal requirement in Australia to have qualified tradesperson or a licensed electrician wire such a device.
240V and 240V appliances can be very dangerous, it is not a good idea to attempt to wire them yourself.*

STC 1000 ($20 Ebay), enclosure (click-storage container $2.50 Coles), 3 point terminal block ($1 for 12 point Ebay), 3x PG11 cable glands ($6 for 20 Ebay), 2x 3m extension cords ($3 ea Kmart):





(Jiffy-type boxes also work very well as enclosure.)

Use step-bit to drill holes in enclosure for cable glands, drill hole for temperature probe:




(If not using cable glands, drill holes the same size as the cable and use cable-ties on either side for tension-relief)

Cut out mounting hole for STC 1000:





Cut cords, strip wires:





Fit cable glands & slide cord through, attach wires to terminal block:
*This (and the next few steps) is where you need the qualified electrician, do not DIY this, especially if you are unsure about the circuit diagram.*





Fit to STC 1000:





Ensure there is no tension on internal wires, make things look neat, tighten cable glands, use cable-ties for tension-relief on temperature probe:





Label plugs, tape enclosure closed:





*Using the STC 1000:*
Power on using top left button.
Hold 'S' button for 3 seconds to enter setup mode:

Press 'up' or 'down' to select setting to adjust.
Hold 'S' and use 'up' or 'down' button to adjust setting.
Press power button to confirm setting.

F1: Temperature setting.
F2: Difference value.
F3: Delay time.
F4: Temperature calibration.​


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## Golani51

Can you please provide the ebay supplier name for the cable glads. Cannot find at that price.
EDIT: sitedv88 is the seller name

R



Wolfy said:


> *Note:*
> *If the STC 1000 will be connected to a power-point and used to control a Fridge, HLT or similar, it is a legal requirement in Australia to have qualified tradesperson or a licensed electrician wire such a device.
> 240V and 240V appliances can be very dangerous, it is not a good idea to attempt to wire them yourself.*
> 
> STC 1000 ($20 Ebay), enclosure (click-storage container $2.50 Coles), 3 point terminal block ($1 for 12 point Ebay), 3x PG11 cable glands ($6 for 20 Ebay), 2x 3m extension cords ($3 ea Kmart):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Jiffy-type boxes also work very well as enclosure.)
> 
> Use step-bit to drill holes in enclosure for cable glands, drill hole for temperature probe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (If not using cable glands, drill holes the same size as the cable and use cable-ties on either side for tension-relief)
> 
> Cut out mounting hole for STC 1000:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cut cords, strip wires:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit cable glands & slide cord through, attach wires to terminal block:
> *This (and the next few steps) is where you need the qualified electrician, do not DIY this, especially if you are unsure about the circuit diagram.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fit to STC 1000:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ensure there is no tension on internal wires, make things look neat, tighten cable glands, use cable-ties for tension-relief on temperature probe:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Label plugs, tape enclosure closed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Using the STC 1000:*
> Power on using top left button.
> Hold 'S' button for 3 seconds to enter setup mode:
> 
> Press 'up' or 'down' to select setting to adjust.
> Hold 'S' and use 'up' or 'down' button to adjust setting.
> Press power button to confirm setting.
> 
> F1: Temperature setting.
> F2: Difference value.
> F3: Delay time.
> F4: Temperature calibration.​


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## Wolfy

Golani51 said:


> Can you please provide the ebay supplier name for the cable glads. Cannot find at that price.


These were the ones I purchased, however that was some months ago, they may/may not be the cheapest now:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...0#ht_2639wt_906


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## Truman42

Great instructional Wolfy. Love the ghetto jiffy box.


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## DU99

Very good informative post :icon_cheers: have to see if we have any cable glands at work


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## dougsbrew

id suggest a better enclosure and a bit more, a curious child could quite easily pop that lid and stick their hand in their. 
there are standards for electrical work in australia for good reasons, to keep people safe and alive.


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## NickB

+1

A suitable adaptable box or similar is only around $5 from Masters/Electrical Wholesaler and is more suitable for the job. They are secured with 4 screws and usually have a seal making them splash proof (or waterproof if you want to pay a bit extra).


Cheers


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## Golani51

Wolfy said:


> These were the ones I purchased, however that was some months ago, they may/may not be the cheapest now:
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...0#ht_2639wt_906



They are the cheapest still, and the ones I got. Not worth worrying about another dollar savings anyway. The STC1000 I founf cheapest for AU$19.93 delivered at:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STC-1000-Digita...=item48452f87c4


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## gava

I install mine in a cheap $7 project box from jaycar.. Screwed tight no worry of kids getting their hands on it and its cheap. if your spending oney on the cable glands why not get a box a suit  

edit added pic.









Golani51 said:


> They are the cheapest still, and the ones I got. Not worth worrying about another dollar savings anyway. The STC1000 I founf cheapest for AU$19.93 delivered at:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STC-1000-Digita...=item48452f87c4


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## MaestroMatt

Wolfy is getting pretty good at these instructional picture threads!

But Wolfy.....I see no stainless in this build.....what's going on????


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## Aces High

gava said:


> I install mine in a cheap $7 project box from jaycar.. Screwed tight no worry of kids getting their hands on it and its cheap. if your spending oney on the cable glands why not get a box a suit
> 
> edit added pic.




+1 for these jaycar jiffy boxes. I also fitted a low profile double powerpoint on the side of this jaycar one, that way I can also plug a fan and be able to turn it on and off for my keg fridge


I also have one that controls my Herms and have the brown pump plugged into the side, so its easy to turn on and off


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## Ducatiboy stu

If you cant get the cable glands, make sure you drill the hole size for the cable to be a tight fit, the use a medium cable tie either side of the of the hole and pull tight. Work the same as a gland to stop you puling the cable and wires out of the box.

I have used in many time when to secure cable but could not get a gland .


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## gava

I just tie a knot in my cable on the inside so you can't pull it.



Ducatiboy stu said:


> If you cant get the cable glands, make sure you drill the hole size for the cable to be a tight fit, the use a medium cable tie either side of the of the hole and pull tight. Work the same as a gland to stop you puling the cable and wires out of the box.
> 
> I have used in many time when to secure cable but could not get a gland .


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## Wolfy

My kids have finished high-school so are into much more dangerious things than opening clear boxes with wires inside. 
But of course the jiffy-type box a 'better' way to go, I just like being able to see inside (and it means I don't have to go out and buy one), in regard to the cable glands, it was heaps cheaper to buy 20 so I did, else I'd have used cable-ties.


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## Ducatiboy stu

MMMM.....make me thinks that I should go and buy a box from TLE and any one who wants some, send me the money and a stamped self adressed bubble bag. Work out about $1 each


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## hotchilli

gava said:


> I just tie a knot in my cable on the inside so you can't pull it.



For power cables, I like to use a couple of these:





http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4094

and one of these:





http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP4003


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## soundawake

What timing! I just had an STC1000 arrive the other week and was planning to wire it up later this week, so this thread is invaluable. Thanks!!


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## breakbeer

Nice one Wolfy, just what I needed
Last time a sparky charged me $90, so this time I'd like to wire it myself & just get it checked & approved by a qualified sparky, or test & tagged at work


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## Clutch

What would it take for a qualified sparky to knock these up and sell them on here? Surely someone here is qualified?


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## Gavo

Yep a good solid enclosure is the go and the cabel glands are better than tying knots.



NickB said:


> +1
> 
> A suitable adaptable box or similar is only around $5 from Masters/Electrical Wholesaler and is more suitable for the job. They are secured with 4 screws and usually have a seal making them splash proof (or waterproof if you want to pay a bit extra).
> 
> 
> Cheers



Now Nick I am sure I still have a certain photo of a certain fridgemate installation around somewhere when a certain person had a brewday at Kingaroy. Ah those were the days. B) 

Gav


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## NickB

Gav - I know much better these days 

Clutch - the problem with a sparky wiring it, is that even if it was wired correctly, and tested to be safe, if it did fault, the sparky would be liable as he wired it and verified the work.

Cheers


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## Phoney

Clutch said:


> What would it take for a qualified sparky to knock these up and sell them on here? Surely someone here is qualified?



There's already some guy on ebay selling them wired up - for $80 bucks!

His products arent rated with the necessary government sticker so he's risking a $10,000 fine if he gets caught. Worse if it's found to have caused somebody's house to burn down.

Getting an electronics manufacturer to knock them up for us in China however is a completely different story, but they generally have minimum orders of at least 100 and no doubt we'd need someone who knows how to deal/negotiate with them in order to not get ripped off with dodgy workmanship.


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## Wolfy

Clutch said:


> What would it take for a qualified sparky to knock these up and sell them on here? Surely someone here is qualified?


I thought that not only did the sparky have to be qualified, but also that they unit had to have the 'electrical approved' sticker on it in order to be sold. I presume that adds a deal of complexity and cost.

KegKing also sell pre-wired units @ about $70, at a guess I'd suspect theirs are wired in China.


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## glenwal

Wolfy said:


> I thought that not only did the sparky have to be qualified, but also that they unit had to have the 'electrical approved' sticker on it in order to be sold. I presume that adds a deal of complexity and cost.
> 
> KegKing also sell pre-wired units @ about $70, at a guess I'd suspect theirs are wired in China.



No need to be qualified to wire it - just needs to have the appropirate approval. It also doesn't matter where the unit is wired or manufactured. If you sell it in Australia, it has to have the approval.


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## KingKong

This is my set up, worked out very tidy and with easy access. Im very happy with it. 

As stated, Aussie law states have a electrician do it for you!


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## alfadog

Clutch said:


> What would it take for a qualified sparky to knock these up and sell them on here? Surely someone here is qualified?



Hmm that gives me an idea...


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## Acasta

Hey,
What settings should be used to optimise this for a Herms controller?

Would it be?
F1: Mash temp desired
F2: 0.3
F3: 1
F4: 0


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## Yob

F1 desired temp,
F2 minimum, (0.3)
F3 iirc, needs to be calibrated to a trusted device.. In my case was the mashmaster thermometer in the MT.. I did a wet run and calibrated it after half an hour at 63'c.

F4 iirc is the compressor delay and should also be 0 for a hex type setup.

You finally get that keg done up as a HLT mate?

Yob


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## Acasta

iamozziyob said:


> F1 desired temp,
> F2 minimum, (0.3)
> F3 iirc, needs to be calibrated to a trusted device.. In my case was the mashmaster thermometer in the MT.. I did a wet run and calibrated it after half an hour at 63'c.
> 
> F4 iirc is the compressor delay and should also be 0 for a hex type setup.
> 
> You finally get that keg done up as a HLT mate?
> 
> Yob



Haha, well a mate of mine saw that keg and wanted it really badly! So I gave it to him and ended up with a plain one as a HLT.

I'm finally finishing the setup now, have a look. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...c=64156&hl=


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## Yob

Acasta said:


> Haha, well a mate of mine saw that keg and wanted it really badly! So I gave it to him and ended up with a plain one as a HLT.
> 
> I'm finally finishing the setup now, have a look. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...c=64156&hl=




Robbed!! :lol:


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## Wolfy

Acasta said:


> Hey,
> What settings should be used to optimise this for a Herms controller?
> 
> Would it be?
> F1: Mash temp desired
> F2: 0.3
> F3: 1
> F4: 0





iamozziyob said:


> F1 desired temp,
> F2 minimum, (0.3)
> F3 iirc, needs to be calibrated to a trusted device.. In my case was the mashmaster thermometer in the MT.. I did a wet run and calibrated it after half an hour at 63'c.
> 
> F4 iirc is the compressor delay and should also be 0 for a hex type setup.


As per first post (and the instructions sitting infront of me):
F1: Temperature (_mash temp_)
F2: Temperature difference (_minimum 0.3_)
F3: Compressor delay time (_set to 0 if you can_)
F4: Temperature Calibration (_as appropriate_)


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## Yob

arse about as per usual.. thanks for cleaning up Wolfy.

:icon_cheers:


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## breakbeer

wired it up today & followed your instructions to a tee, gonna take it to work on Monday & get it checked by the sparkies at work


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## Yob

whats the probe?


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## Cocko

Moneys on a Mash Master ntc..

:icon_cheers:


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## Yob

I thought they werent compatible :unsure:


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## Cocko

Me too  

But it looks a hellava lot like one to me!

BreakBeer, we're looking at you?


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## breakbeer

Yep, it's the mashmaster one that Cocko linked to

I was unsure if it would work but I read the comments on the page & the retailer confirmed it will work with the stc-1000


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## Yob

let us know when you get it hooked up and calibrated.. Im sure more than one eyebrow has gone up at this.

Yob


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## breakbeer

iamozziyob said:


> let us know when you get it hooked up and calibrated.. Im sure more than one eyebrow has gone up at this.
> 
> Yob



Will do

the plan is to screw it into a fitting that's attached to the inner basket of my single vessel


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## adraine

I'm planning the same. Just waiting on the stc1000 to turn up I already have the probes. I'll report my findings also. I'll have my dad check it out his an elect engineer.


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## JakeSm

sorry for being a noob but i dont understand.

how is the STC-1000 connected to the fridge if its rigged up seperatly (only asking as i am about to get into kegging and i do require one of these), is it the modified power cable that the fridges power cable plugs into? if so does the STC have another cable that plugs into the wall socket or something.

if someone can describe the process or post some pics of ones that are fitted and wired to the fridge and where it connects to, that would be great. sorry for the obvious questions to you guys and im sure some will be chuckleing when reading this.

cheers jake.


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## benno1973

JakeSm - You have it correct in your post, and you can see it in breakbeers picture... the STC-1000 has a male part of an extension cord that plugs into the wall socket (black cord in the picture). It also has a female part of an extension lead (white cord in the picture) that the fridge's power cord plugs into. Finally, it has a temperature probe that measures the temp within the fridge.

When the temp gets above a set point, it allows power to flow to the fridge and the fridge starts to cool. When the temp falls below the set point, the power is cut to the fridge.

Not a silly question at all, just much easier to understand when you see it in operation.


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## billygoat

The SS probe that Mashmaster and Craftbrewer sell are 10 K ohm NTC thermistors that are compatable with Fridgemates and STC 1000's. 
The Tempmate uses a 5K ohm NTC thermistor so is not compatable with the sensor used on the STC 1000.


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## Jay Cee

billygoat said:


> The SS probe that Mashmaster and Craftbrewer sell are 10 K ohm NTC thermistors that are compatable with Fridgemates and STC 1000's.




Thank christ for that, I just bought one of those SS probes last week for use with an STC1000


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## breakbeer

the temp shown on the installed dial thermometer matches what is displayed on the screen of the STC, so I'm happy with that

:icon_cheers:


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## philmud

I got my brother in law, who's a sparky to wire one of these up today - I can't seem to get it to work & want to make sure it's not a user end issue. I'd like to check my assumptions about how it operates if anyone can help. This is what I did to test it.

1) plugged a halogen light into the cooling plug
2) switched it on
3) entered "set-up" by holding "S", the functions are all set as follows:
-F1 - 10c
-F2 - 0.5c
-F3 - 1 (can't select zero)
-F4 - 0.00 (assume I can leave this alone)

So, upon confirming the selection by pressing the power button the unit displays an ambient temp of 16.4c - am I right in thinking that after 1 minute my halogen light should have kicked in?


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## kahlerisms

There's a little heat and cool LED on the front panel - use that to help you figure out if the thermostat's behaving as you'd expect.


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## philmud

Cheers, yep the "cool" LED is lit up, but the light isn't switching on, even after 5 minutes.


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## yum beer

Wired wrong...I suspect.


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## yum beer

might seem silly, but is the switch on the lamp, switched on.


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## Cocko

Dont have an STC but a tempmate..

DO they have a compressor delay setting? Could be the delay...

Just tryin to help.


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## philmud

The switch is defo on, I also tried with my kettle. I just had a look at the wiring & while it seems to match the diagram on the actual unit, that seems different from the diagram I've attached .

My BiL has run the live mains wire to port 1, the mains neutral wire to port 2, 3 & 4 are sensor probes of course, 5 has the heating live wire, 6 the heating neutral wire, 7 the cooling live wire and 8 has the cooling neutral wire.

Wait, stop press!!!

Ahhh, I think I see the problem!! The wiring configuration that comes with the unit says the heating and cooling unit need their OWN external power source! Presumably the diagram attached allows the heater and cooler to use the same power source as the STC! Does that sound right?


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## philmud

Cocko said:


> Dont have an STC but a tempmate..
> 
> DO they have a compressor delay setting? Could be the delay...
> 
> Just tryin to help.


Cheers Cocko, it has a compressor delay, but I set it to one minute, so should've kicked in. I reckon the issue is that he (and I) assumed that the AC power going to the unit would power the fridge/heater & it needs to be wired differently to do that.


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## yum beer

As per your diagram.....
5/6 and 7/8 act as a relay switch, you need power in to 5/7 and power out from 6/8


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## Screwtop

Phil Mud said:


> The switch is defo on, I also tried with my kettle. I just had a look at the wiring & while it seems to match the diagram on the actual unit, that seems different from the diagram I've attached .
> 
> My BiL has run the live mains wire to port 1, the mains neutral wire to port 2, 3 & 4 are sensor probes of course, 5 has the heating live wire, 6 the heating neutral wire, 7 the cooling live wire and 8 has the cooling neutral wire.
> 
> Wait, stop press!!!
> 
> Ahhh, I think I see the problem!! The wiring configuration that comes with the unit says the heating and cooling unit need their OWN external power source! Presumably the diagram attached allows the heater and cooler to use the same power source as the STC! Does that sound right?


For the umteen billionth time  ............................. These things simply switch the ACTIVE to the outputs. Yes Active and Neutral need to power the unit (terminals 1&2), Neutral and earth need to be wired through to the two outputs. Then two actives run via the Cooling (terminals 7&8) and Heating (terminals 5&6) switch contacts. 

The diagram shows a Live (Active), Neutral and Earth *Block*, to connect multiple wires. In the simplest form these would be 240V insulated screw terminals. I prefer to use a terminal strip to for this. 

These devices are a simple switching device. They are powered by 240VAC and have two internal switches. Each is used to switch an active to an outlet.....................................SIMPLE!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't try to overthink them. 

240VAC enters via the cable and plug, and then the Active (Brown/Red), Neutral (Blue/Black) and Earth (Green and Yellow) are split using a connector (screw terminal of some type) into:

Earth - 2 (one to each outlet cable). Extending the Earth through to each outlet cable.

Neutral - 3 (one for the STC 1000 (Terminal 2) and one to each outlet cable. Extending the Neutral through to each outlet cable.

Active - 3 (one for the STC 1000 (Terminal 1), one to Terminal 7 (Cooling switch in) and
one to Terminal 5 (Heating switch in).

The active (Brown) of the Cooling outlet cable is wired to Terminal 8 (Cooling switch out)

The active (Brown) of the Heating outlet cable is wired to Terminal 6 (Heating switch out)

Now I've gone and complicated it all again.............for some maybe :lol:

Screwy


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## philmud

Haha, cheers gents, after I posted last night I did see a post a few topics down that addressed this, so apologies for being repetitive. One further question, my BiL cut the earth wires, saying they weren't necessary as the STC casing is plastic. All the diagrams I've seen have earth wires connected, presumably, if I fixed the active/neutral wiring but left the earth disconnected, the fridge won't be earthed? Is this correct?

Edit: Screwy, I did read your instructions re: the earth wires, just wanting confirmation that my BiL's reasoning that the STC is housed in plastic is ignoring the fact that the fridge at least, needs to be earthed.


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## QldKev

Phil Mud said:


> The switch is defo on, I also tried with my kettle. I just had a look at the wiring & while it seems to match the diagram on the actual unit, that seems different from the diagram I've attached .
> 
> My BiL has run the live mains wire to port 1, the mains neutral wire to port 2, 3 & 4 are sensor probes of course, 5 has the heating live wire, 6 the heating neutral wire, 7 the cooling live wire and 8 has the cooling neutral wire.
> 
> Wait, stop press!!!
> 
> Ahhh, I think I see the problem!! The wiring configuration that comes with the unit says the heating and cooling unit need their OWN external power source! Presumably the diagram attached allows the heater and cooler to use the same power source as the STC! Does that sound right?


I assume your sparky mate is clued on enough to look at the wiring diagram on the unit itself?

THAT WIRING DIAGRAM ABOVE IS WRONG!

Also if he just cut off the Earth leads he is a dickhead. As you said, you need them joined for the fridge to have the earth circuit.

Edit: Here is my wiring pic, all that is different is the heat and cool are reverse. So you dont actually need to change anything, just update the output names.


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## philmud

Thanks Kev, yeah, I'm not sure why he read the diagram on the unit the way he did, I assume he thought the unit distributed 240V to the outputs. As for the earthing, I reckon I haven't properly explained how the unit works in practice - he's a sparky & as far as I know hasn't electrocuted himself or anyone else, or caused any fires, so I'll give him the benefit of the doubt.


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## QldKev

If he knows what he is doing, he shouldn't need you to explain to him. It's got 2 power outlets connected to it, he should have been able to work it out pretty quick. Leaving the earth off won't necessarily immediately electrocute you. It's only there as a safety measure in-case the fridge itself should become energized, which hopefully will never happen. But if it does, and without a earth connected, you will be the best earth path!. So it could be an issue a couple of years later. At that stage it probably would not be directly linked back to this wiring job. By the sounds, I wouldn't trust him with my wiring. Just to make it clear, I'm not an electrician.


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## philmud

I don't want to be the best earth path! By benefit of the doubt, I don't mean I'll trust his wiring, I just mean I trust that with better initial info, he'd have done the job correctly, though, as you say, I'm surprised he didn't figure it out.

I can see what needs to be done now!


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## Screwtop

Phil Mud said:


> Haha, cheers gents, after I posted last night I did see a post a few topics down that addressed this, so apologies for being repetitive. One further question, my BiL cut the earth wires, saying they weren't necessary as the STC casing is plastic. All the diagrams I've seen have earth wires connected, presumably, if I fixed the active/neutral wiring but left the earth disconnected, the fridge won't be earthed? Is this correct?
> 
> Edit: Screwy, I did read your instructions re: the earth wires, just wanting confirmation that my BiL's reasoning that the STC is housed in plastic is ignoring the fact that the fridge at least, needs to be earthed.


Phil, the STC unit does not require earthing, thus no earth connection/terminal. However the earth from the GPO (power outlet) must be extended to the outlets. This is why only two earth wires are extended from the inlet cable, one to each outlet cable.

If using a fridge as the cooling device this must be earthed, the lead will contain three conductors and will have an earth pin on the plug. If using a lamp for instance in the fridge as a heating device then this will most likely only have two conductors in the cable (active and neutral) and will not have an earth pin in the plug. Fridges are earthed, one of the reasons ceiling fluro's in kitchens are required to be earthed is because people stand on fridges (earthed cabinet) to change tubes :blink:

Screwy


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## angus_grant

QldKev said:


> I assume your sparky mate is clued on enough to look at the wiring diagram on the unit itself?
> 
> THAT WIRING DIAGRAM ABOVE IS WRONG!
> 
> Also if he just cut off the Earth leads he is a dickhead. As you said, you need them joined for the fridge to have the earth circuit.
> 
> Edit: Here is my wiring pic, all that is different is the heat and cool are reverse. So you dont actually need to change anything, just update the output names.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stc1000heat.jpg


Thanks Kev. Your diagram saved me from asking a question somewhere.

I was wondering why it needed 2 power leads coming into the unit. Given that the STC switches between heating and cooling automatically surely you just need 1 power lead coming in and throw it to all 3 power inputs for STC.

If the STC craps out (fuses both relays at once) and heats and cools at the same time it will still be drawing the same current through your house wiring regardless of 1 power input or 2. From vague memory of my fridges I don't think they pull that many amps so should be under the 10 amp rating of most normal house wiring. I can check that tonight.

Cheers!


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## Screwtop

angus_grant said:


> If the STC craps out (fuses both relays at once) and heats and cools at the same time it will still be drawing the same current through your house wiring regardless of 1 power input or 2. From vague memory of my fridges I don't think they pull that many amps so should be under the 10 amp rating of most normal house wiring. I can check that tonight.
> 
> Cheers!


Average fridge 1 hp, so around 750 watts or 3 amps.


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## HalfWit

Here is a helpful video....


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## barls

HalfWit said:


> Here is a helpful video....


dodgy as.
twist wires together then heat shrink.
id highly recommend not following anything other than his wiring configuration and operation discription


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## punkin

Thanks very kindly for such a great explanation and pics Wolfy. Made the job very simple for me.


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## Clutch

Is there anyone in Brisbane who's qualified to wire these up and will do a cash job fitting one to my keezer?


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## contrarian

I posted this in another thread but thought it might be more appropriate to this thread. 

Instead of starting yet another stc-1000 thread I thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any ideas. 

I've hooked it up following the designs in this thread, double and triple checked it and everything seems to be fine. It is switching both heat and cool sides on and off relative to the measured temperature. 

The problem is that after running for about 10 minutes the measured temperature goes completely haywire and starts reading 80-90C even though the probe is in a chesty running flat out. I'm wondering if the temp sensor is faulty but after going to Jaycar and dick smith it doesn't look like it will be easy to get another sensor to test the theory... Any ideas?


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## QldKev

contrarian said:


> I posted this in another thread but thought it might be more appropriate to this thread.
> 
> Instead of starting yet another stc-1000 thread I thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any ideas.
> 
> I've hooked it up following the designs in this thread, double and triple checked it and everything seems to be fine. It is switching both heat and cool sides on and off relative to the measured temperature.
> 
> The problem is that after running for about 10 minutes the measured temperature goes completely haywire and starts reading 80-90C even though the probe is in a chesty running flat out. I'm wondering if the temp sensor is faulty but after going to Jaycar and dick smith it doesn't look like it will be easy to get another sensor to test the theory... Any ideas?


refer the other thread

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/45747-stc-1000-temp-controller/page-27#entry1038104


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## Logman

Is the wiring of a non STC that doesn't auto switch from hot to cold (but looks the same) identical to an STC1000?


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## QldKev

Post a pic of the wiring diagram that is on it so we can verify it


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## Logman

Will try to hunt the diagram down today, it was a couple of years back when I got it. I always just used one of the non switchers for the fridge (it's got a hot and cold socket), but it's cold enough on the coast ATM that I've got a heatpad in the fridge. I've also got an STC as a spare unwired so was going to switch that over.

I guess the diagram might be on Ebay now that you mention it.

Edit - Found it in the fermenting room - same set of instructions :beerbang:


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## punkin

Bumping to the top


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## Robrock

Got my stc 1000 in the mail today about 30 mins later it's wired and being used . Happy to help with any questions . Best thing I bought re controlling brewing temp


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## Nullnvoid

I have a chest freezer which I have been using to keep my home brew at a constant level. I was wondering if the st-1000 is suitable to go on a freezer, or whether it's only suitable for a fridge?


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## elcarter

Nullnvoid said:


> I have a chest freezer which I have been using to keep my home brew at a constant level. I was wondering if the st-1000 is suitable to go on a freezer, or whether it's only suitable for a fridge?


Mine works perfectly on the beer chest freezer.


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## Nullnvoid

Thanks elcarter. Good to know!


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## MartinOC

> I have a chest freezer which I have been using to keep my home brew at a constant level. I was wondering if the st-1000 is suitable to go on a freezer, or whether it's only suitable for a fridge?


As long as you don't exceed the 10A limit on the internal relays, it's all sweet.


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## acrow

deleted - as sorted in different post.


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## Doug2232

Kaiser Soze said:


> JakeSm - You have it correct in your post, and you can see it in breakbeers picture... the STC-1000 has a male part of an extension cord that plugs into the wall socket (black cord in the picture). It also has a female part of an extension lead (white cord in the picture) that the fridge's power cord plugs into. Finally, it has a temperature probe that measures the temp within the fridge.
> 
> When the temp gets above a set point, it allows power to flow to the fridge and the fridge starts to cool. When the temp falls below the set point, the power is cut to the fridge.
> 
> Not a silly question at all, just much easier to understand when you see it in operation.


Ill prob get an electrician to do mine but im just curious.

There are two female cords in breakbeers pic. Which one does the freezer plug into...


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## gap

Doug2232 said:


> Ill prob get an electrician to do mine but im just curious.
> 
> There are two female cords in breakbeers pic. Which one does the freezer plug into...


One is for the fridge and one is for some form of heating.

The STC1000 will switch between cooling and heating automatically.


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## benno1973

Note on the STC1000 wiring diagram there is a heating and a cooling relay. One of those female plugs is wired for heating, the other for cooling. The fridge plugs into the one wired to the cooling relay.


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## earle

gap said:


> One is for the fridge and one is for some form of heating.
> 
> The STC1000 will switch between cooling and heating automatically.


I put a short length of red or blue heatshrink on the cord just behind the plug to colour code mine.


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## jackgym

Wolfy said:


> I thought that not only did the sparky have to be qualified, but also that they unit had to have the 'electrical approved' sticker on it in order to be sold. I presume that adds a deal of complexity and cost.
> 
> KegKing also sell pre-wired units @ about $70, at a guess I'd suspect theirs are wired in China.


I'm a bit late with this reply but my local home brew bloke told me the KegKing units are now out of stock because they've proven to be dodgy and they can't (or won't) obtain any more.


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## buckerooni

hi all, I followed the wiring diagram from here: http://s905.photobucket.com/user/carlajefferies/media/stc1000.png.html

but my power cable didn't come with an earth pin/wire. I've wired the 2 earths from the heat/cool plugs together.

since reading up higher on the thread that fridges are earthed, will this be a problem? How about for heating using a reptile heat cord?

here's my wiring:


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## glenwal

buckerooni said:


> hi all, I followed the wiring diagram from here: http://s905.photobucket.com/user/carlajefferies/media/stc1000.png.html
> 
> but my power cable didn't come with an earth pin/wire. I've wired the 2 earths from the heat/cool plugs together.
> 
> since reading up higher on the thread that fridges are earthed, will this be a problem? How about for heating using a reptile heat cord?
> 
> here's my wiring:


Definitely a problem. If you get a short in your fridge, and then touch it, you'll be dead.

If you're not 100% with wiring it up, get someone who is to do it for you. Electricity is dangerous and its not worth your life.


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## Tropico

You could get a power cord that does have an earth, cut one off an electrical device that no longer works or just cut an extension cord.


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## Yob

Defo. Change your supply cord.. Bad ju ju as is


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## Mardoo

Tropico said:


> cut one off an electrical device that no longer works.


Plenty of those in hard rubbish!


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## buckerooni

thanks for the feedback fellas. cut one off an old belt sander only to discover 2 wires! Got another one lined up however.


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## Tropico

buckerooni said:


> cut one off an old belt sander only to discover 2 wires!


Hope the belt sander was cactus.


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## citizensnips

Quick question, so I went to Jaycar as I'm wiring up another STC. They didn't have any 10 amp terminal blocks but he gave me another (either 20 or 30) can't remember.......either way he said it's fine. Just wanting to double check if anyone can confirm this for me? 

Cheers


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## SBOB

citizensnips said:


> Quick question, so I went to Jaycar as I'm wiring up another STC. They didn't have any 10 amp terminal blocks but he gave me another (either 20 or 30) can't remember.......either way he said it's fine. Just wanting to double check if anyone can confirm this for me?
> 
> Cheers


as long as it handles more than 10A then any terminal block will be fine... its essentially just a much neater way compared to some of those you see where the wires are just twisted & electrical taped


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## citizensnips

Thanks for the confirmation SBOB, much appreciated!


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## Mattrox

hotchilli said:


> For power cables, I like to use a couple of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4094
> 
> and one of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP4003


This is the way I went. I also wired in a red light next to the heat plug and green next to the cool plug to indicate a live socket. Also jaycar components.

I used a plug for the temperature probe too. 

I'll post pics of the box in the morning. 

Made some rookie errors in where holes went in the box. But live and learn. This will be back up as I ordered the hackable one from Ali to make the STC 1000+ in a dual probe configuration.


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## Mattrox

This is how mine looks on the outside.


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## Zoiks

Is there a difference between BP connectors and terminal blocks?


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## Mattrox

I accidentally put one hole saw hole in the wrong place when installing the 240V plugs. 

To fix this I got this vivarium air vent off eBay. 

I put a small 12 computer fan behind it. Then Velcro tape holding it upright in front of the vent and wired it to the 12 side of the cooling relay. This is just to keep air flow out so dust doesn't go through the holes.

I thought I'd post my fix for this as I'm sure I'm not the only one to make snafus like this.



As you can see, I still need one rubber plug to fill a hole, but at least now fingers can't get into the box.


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## TwoCrows

This topic really helped me out, extremely imforative as I wired up my stc 1000 today. 

The sensor probe cable supplied stated 2 mtrs in lenght . The one supplied is only 60 cm.

my question guys is what cable/ wire can I use to extend it's overall lenght.
Thanks in advance


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## Mattrox

TwoCrows said:


> This topic really helped me out, extremely imforative as I wired up my stc 1000 today.
> 
> The sensor probe cable supplied stated 2 mtrs in lenght . The one supplied is only 60 cm.
> 
> my question guys is what cable/ wire can I use to extend it's overall lenght.
> Thanks in advance


Cheap figure 8 grey speaker wire from jaycar


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## TwoCrows

Thanks for that Mattrox , fast reply , the ink on the screen was still wet. I may have some lying around from years of put cheap speakers in my old car.


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## Ruger

Has anyone used a double power point mounted in their box with the stc 1000 to eliminate the need for the heat and cool cables hanging out?

Seems like a good idea and would neaten it up a bit.


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## Mattrox

Ruger said:


> Has anyone used a double power point mounted in their box with the stc 1000 to eliminate the need for the heat and cool cables hanging out?
> 
> Seems like a good idea and would neaten it up a bit.






I used panel mount power points. Heat on one side cool on the other. About $7 from jaycar.


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## Ruger

Mattrox said:


> I used panel mount power points. Heat on one side cool on the other. About $7 from jaycar.


Looks good. Would there be any problem being able to switch it off at the power point if I went that way?


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## Mattrox

Ruger said:


> Looks good. Would there be any problem being able to switch it off at the power point if I went that way?


Nope, but I also did this.


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## Ruger

Mattrox said:


> Nope, but I also did this.


Cheers mate :beer:


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## bevan

Ruger said:


> Has anyone used a double power point mounted in their box with the stc 1000 to eliminate the need for the heat and cool cables hanging out?
> 
> Seems like a good idea and would neaten it up a bit.


Looked at doing that myself, only problem is the double power point has one power source. You can't separate the outputs. You could use two single power points though. I ended up just putting a on/off switch on the 240vac input.


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## Wardcliff

$4 tool box from Bunnings. (Credit to previous poster on another thread which I can't seem to locate).


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## yochris77

What settings does everyone use for set temp and the difference setting. For an 18 deg ferment I have set 18 and difference of 3


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## mtb

yochris77 said:


> What settings does everyone use for set temp and the difference setting. For an 18 deg ferment I have set 18 and difference of 3


Three seems high. If your probe is attached to the fermenter and insulated from the ambient temp of your ferm fridge, I don't see why a 1C differential would be an issue. Never was for me.


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## nosco

Wouldnt 3 give you a possible temp difference of 6deg? I used to have it set to 1 but know of have it at .5


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## yochris77

Thanks


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## DavidP2190

I ordered an "STC-1000" off ebay and instead received a RC-316M which I can not find much info about.
Looks the exact same as an STC1000 but different wiring, I've put together an STC1000 without issue following diagrams but not sure about this.

This is the wiring diagram, only need cooling function.

Edit:
This is my interpretation:













RC316Mwiring



__ DavidP2190
__ 3/7/17


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## Dave Nagy

Got the ITC-1000 of inkbird.
Works a treat.
Used two 2m extention cables from Bunnings. $2.50 ea.
Total for the unit and cables $23
BARGAIN


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## TwoCrows

And then you think too yourself. That didn't cost much and buy another one and then another fridge and then.................................


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## Dave Nagy

TwoCrows said:


> And then you think too yourself. That didn't cost much and buy another one and then another fridge and then.................................


I know
Im already thinking of how to fit another fridge in


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## Moad

Look at the brewpiless as an alternative to the stc. You can control and monitor temps over network


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