# Small batch BIAB questions



## Chookers (25/11/15)

Hi all,

I have still not done any grain brews.. but I am very interested in trying BIAB. I have quite a few questions before I get started.

My limited equipment:


15L Stock Pot (I may also have a 8 or 10ltr pot I haven't measured it)
15L fermenter
a long handled stirrer
coffee grinder.. (never used)
24 long necks and some crown seals

I only want to make about 10-12Ltr of beer, been looking at the Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale recipe, as I actually have some NS hop flowers in the freezer. I also have some BSAAZ flowers in the freezer.

as far as I have read, when you do BIAB, you add the total water volume at the beginning, but that would be more than my pots capacity. I have calculated for a half recipe that the total water would be 19.95Ltr. S any advice on how to go about this.

I have forgotten the rest of my questions..

If these questions have all been answered to death already (my apologies)

Oh, yes the idea of Swiss voile or whatever VS BIAB bag ready made, do I have to do anything to the voile if I buy it, like should I boil it first or put it in the dish washer, I don't want any chemicals leeching out. 

Any advice anyone has would be great, and very welcome

Thank you in advance..


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## danestead (25/11/15)

You can make that work easily. You will be mashing with about 3kg of grain so just add 10L of water to that to mash, or whatever fits in your pot. Once the mash is finished, top up with water to achieve your preboil volume.


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## motman (25/11/15)

I reckon just buy a bag. They don't cost much and one less thing to worry about when learning is good in my book. They last ages. I got a good one from craft Brewer in brissie. Also, don't worry about pushing too hard for the volume - the fermenter doesn't have to be full, a bit of head space can. E a blessing with a vigorous fermentation. Have fun!


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## Blind Dog (25/11/15)

Easy enough to make a circle of Swiss voile, diameter needs to be the diameter of your pot plus at least 1.5 times the depth of the pot. Once cut, just carefully run a flame around the edge to seal the fibres - maybe try with an off it first as its easy to burn a hole.

Or buy a bag

As danestead said, you should easily be able to get your desired volumes from that pot. BIAB doesn't have to be full volume, it's just a little more to think about and you may need to add a sparge to get decent efficiency.


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## Chookers (25/11/15)

excellent (does Mr Burns fingers)

I'm getting excited now, it actually seems feasible that I could be drinking my first AG at this Christmas's BBQ

Thanks Guys

Cheers


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## Chookers (26/11/15)

how would you go about hops in this sized batch. I have Nelson sauvin flower and BSAAZ, I wanted to make a light, fruity, refreshing beer, not too bitter, because I want it to suit a broad spectrum of people.

How much grams and what times should I add, I have never used pellets or flowers but I have notice most recipes call for pellets, will this alter the weight used if I use flowers?

I hope what I'm writing is making sense, cos its flowing straight from my head on to the screen..heehee


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## Chookers (4/12/15)

I have been taking the SG over the last 3 days and it has stayed steady at 1020 from 1054. I used the Brewers Friend calculator and it gave me 4.46% alc, does this sound right to everyone..

Whats the next step? should I put the whole fermenter in the fridge? or bottle it? I am just really unsure of what to do next.

I will be bulk priming and bottle carbing, eventually.. I have only ever made can kits, this was my first attempt at AG, and I did a small BIAB batch.

Its not very clear, any suggestions on how to clear it up a bit.


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## Barge (4/12/15)

I add some gelatin. Google how to do that. Basically a teaspoon in a cup of water. Microwave in short bursts until it's 60C. Add this to the fermenter and put the fermenter in the fridge.

Leave for 2 days minimum. 

Bottle from there.


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## Barge (4/12/15)

Forgot to mention. 1.020 seems a bit high. What temp did you mash at?


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## Chookers (4/12/15)

mashed at 67 for 90mins.

Will try the gelatine. Then after 2 days rack onto the priming sugar?

I have been considering sanitising with Milton http://www.miltonbaby.com.au/our-products/antibacterial-solution-1l-2/

anyone used this before for homebrew, 1L is on at Coles for $5.50 which makes a total of 80L of sanitising solution... should I sanitise the crown seals too?


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## Barge (5/12/15)

Not 100% sure but I think Miltons is a chlorine based steriliser which I don't think would be good to use. Yeasts can turn chlorine into some funky tasting compounds you don't want in your beer.

I never used to sanitise the crown seals. As long as they are kept clean after opening they should be fine. I don't think it would hurt to sanitise them though if you wanted peace of mind.


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## Chookers (5/12/15)

I am thinking I mashed too high, and I have now got unfermentable sugars in there.. I am not experienced but I have been reading up on mashing.. but I have tasted it, I think it tastes nice, and just like flat beer.. I just don't want to end up with bombs.. Im worried about bottling.. Im just about to take the SG again, and then will be transferring it to another pot to mix in the gelatine.. should I stir it through. Then leave in fridge for two days. Then bulk prime and bottle.

With the Milton, if I was to use it.. and let it dry out in the oven or just dry out completely wouldn't that get rid of any residual chlorine elements.. do they just evaporate.

or

rinse out with some boiled water?


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## Barge (5/12/15)

If you're worried about the f.g. perform a fast ferment test (google it). 

No need to stir the gelatin. 

If you've searched for how to use Miltons in brewing and haven't found anything then there's probably a good reason for that. Maybe you can use it. I don't know. But there's better, easier ways to get the job done. You need to get some no rinse sanitiser like starsan. Tried and tested. Might cost a bit for a bottle but you use **** all so it lasts for ages.


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## Barge (5/12/15)

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/41266-milton-as-a-sanitiser/

Some good info about Miltons here.


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## Chookers (5/12/15)

Thanks for that link, Barge.. all righty then.. the Milton does sound a bit off putting.

I'll have to get some, I had a big bag of it and a bottle of bleach leaked into it and ruined the whole bag, was about 1kg, and I had used **** all as you said.

What about this method, wash bottles in soapy water and rinse, then boil in pots of water, use water to make another brew?? water would be clean as the bottles were washed well before being put in the pan.

I have also heard of people using vodka to sterilise with.. what do they do wipe out equipment with it.. lol they wouldn't have 11Ltr of vodka..


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## Chookers (8/12/15)

Just about to bottle this thing, I have had it in the fridge for two days with the gelatine solution suggested, its cleared a little bit. I just checked the S.G and even at the lower temp from the fridge my hydrometer is still reading 1020.. is this weird? I thought there was supposed to be a difference with temps? or is my hydrometer broken/faulty.

Tastes okay, perhaps a bit sweet but I have let others taste it and asked their opinion and no-one has said its sweet, so it might be just me looking for it.

I came out with around 10.7L of beer am bulk priming with 100g of Dex cooked up in 600ml of water.. is this okay? I got this measurement from the bulk priming calculator on this site.. I got 12 glass long necks 650ml and 6 PET bottles.

***bottling sucks**** anyone got a good method.. because my method makes me want to bang my head on the floor.


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## Lager Bloke (8/12/15)

Kegs...kegs...kegs
That's best option IMO-in saying that, I normally ferment 20l or21l batches and use bottles for excess litre or 2nd
Thanks, Rob.


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## Chookers (8/12/15)

yes, I would love kegs, but I have not the space or money for kegs 

hence my BIAB and 15L fermenter... well I am at the start of my homebrewing even though I have been haunting these forums for years and years.. I've done a few meads and a pyment I made from grape/wine concentrate and unhoped malt extract, which tastes like port.. not too bad


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## Lager Bloke (8/12/15)

Best of luck with BIAB-will be my next step in not too distant future (after xmas).Have been in the same boat-money not abundant for kegs but finally starting to get setup.One way of looking at it is ya don't have to get gas,taps,fridge,etc-just bottle + chill when ready to serve-you'll get there in time.
Thanks,Rob.


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## Chookers (8/12/15)

Thanks Lager Bloke.

yeh, there are benefits to bottling, I would encourage the use of PET bottles though. I used glass today and knocked one over it was a stubbie, but I still cut my finger on that bastard...

but if you are gonna go for glass (which would be good for the Barley Wine Im planning) I would say definitely invest in a bench capper... Im still using the hand capper the one you hammer on.. I am going to get a bench capper, that hand one is scary.


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## stm (10/12/15)

Chookers said:


> ***bottling sucks**** anyone got a good method.. because my method makes me want to bang my head on the floor.


What is your method? A few other threads on here discussing bottling.

My method is:
1. quick rinse of bottles in warm water, drain on bottle tree; 
2. prepare starsan solution;
3. bottles back into crates;
4. squirt each bottle with starsan solution using the bottle squirter thingy, drain on bottle tree;
5. prepare caps and sugar, sanitise bottling wand and tube;
6. bottles back into crates;
7. use home brew sugar scoop and small funnel to prime each bottle;
8. attach bottling wand to plastic tube - you will need another short piece from an old bottling wand to connect the other end of the tube to the FV tap - connect to tap, turn on tap;
9. fill bottles by moving wand to each bottle (not bottles to tap);
10. cap with bench capper.

The squirter thingy, bottle priming with actual sugar scoop and funnel, wand on a tube and bench capper will make it a hell of a lot easier. Although many will disagree re bottle priming.


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## Chookers (10/12/15)

my method would be the opposite of your method.. its just chaos.

But the idea of attaching the wand to the tubing and moving the wand and not the bottles is pure genius.. I will definitely be doing it that way from now on.. because that caused me a lot of frustration.. I bulk primed this time round (which I have never done before) I usually just use the carb drops. I used 100g dex for 10.5-11L of beer.. I got this number from the bulk priming calculator from this site.. so I'm hoping I haven't over or under carbed..

I still don't have a bench capper, all I got is the kind you hammer on.. I am determined to get a bench capper for the barley wine and an auto siphon.


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## Nizmoose (10/12/15)

Chookers said:


> Just about to bottle this thing, I have had it in the fridge for two days with the gelatine solution suggested, its cleared a little bit. I just checked the S.G and even at the lower temp from the fridge my hydrometer is still reading 1020.. is this weird? I thought there was supposed to be a difference with temps? or is my hydrometer broken/faulty.
> 
> Tastes okay, perhaps a bit sweet but I have let others taste it and asked their opinion and no-one has said its sweet, so it might be just me looking for it.
> 
> ...


Re: the hydrometer yes the reading should change but if the temp swing isnt much it really wont change a lot, for example a 1.020SG sample at 20C will only read as 1.019 at just 10C so theres really not a lot of difference. Some of the higher temperatures is where you'll see 5 or 6 point swings.


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## danestead (10/12/15)

Chookers said:


> my method would be the opposite of your method.. its just chaos.
> 
> But the idea of attaching the wand to the tubing and moving the wand and not the bottles is pure genius.. I will definitely be doing it that way from now on.. because that caused me a lot of frustration.. I bulk primed this time round (which I have never done before) I usually just use the carb drops. I used 100g dex for 10.5-11L of beer.. I got this number from the bulk priming calculator from this site.. so I'm hoping I haven't over or under carbed..
> 
> I still don't have a bench capper, all I got is the kind you hammer on.. I am determined to get a bench capper for the barley wine and an auto siphon.


Oh dude, those hammer on ones should be illegal. So dangerous.

I'd suggest asking someone local to kindly borrow their bench capper until you are able to buy one for yourself.


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## antiphile (10/12/15)

Hi guys. Up until the last few months, I almost exclusively used PET bottles and worked out the proper level for carbonation for the styles I mainly do. However, since using glass, it seems many of them are over-carbed. Perhaps it's just me but has anyone else noticed this?

Damn! I've hijacked this thread. Please don't hesitate to delete this, mods, if you wish.


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## Chookers (10/12/15)

Thanks Nizmoose, I guess the SG was right then, it had been 1020 for 3 days..must have been done fermenting, right?

I hope that's not going to be the case with me antiphile.. because that'll mean I have glass bombs.. :unsure:

Danestead, I am already buying one.. then I'll have no excuse. lol.. I've been looking at the swing tops but I don't know whats better crowns or swing tops.. but still I'm just going to get that damned bench capper.

on a separate note.. has anyone done BIAB barley wine..

fave BIAB recipes??

sorry just trying to get back on topic


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## antiphile (10/12/15)

I'm sorry Chook, 'cos I haven't made a barleywine, but when I was doing BIAB I did have problems with high OG brews (certainly those bigger than 1.075 or 1.080). I still have difficulties with a 3V system getting much over 1.080 with a normal mash, but that may just be my system etc.

How high were you thinking of for your barleywine?


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## danestead (10/12/15)

antiphile said:


> I'm sorry Chook, 'cos I haven't made a barleywine, but when I was doing BIAB I did have problems with high OG brews (certainly those bigger than 1.075 or 1.080). I still have difficulties with a 3V system getting much over 1.080 with a normal mash, but that may just be my system etc.
> 
> How high were you thinking of for your barleywine?


It would depend on if and how much sugar he used. On my 20L braumeister I did a 100% grain RIS and only got 14L into the fermenter however I also did a Belgian Tripel which had about 25% sugar and I got my normal 22L into the fermenter.


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## Chookers (10/12/15)

antiphile, I would be aiming for around og1100 ideally.. I have another topic in the all grain forum on this.. but I would probably mash half the grain then drain and reheat the wort to mash the remainder in, as someone suggested.. mash for 90min at 61.1.

Fermenting at 17-19Degrees, would this be possible to maintain in a esky cooler?


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## antiphile (11/12/15)

Ahhh. Yeah I can't see too many problems if you're doing iy as a reiterated mash. I've only a tiny bit of experience with them, but from what I've seen that should work out well.


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## Nizmoose (11/12/15)

Chookers said:


> Thanks Nizmoose, I guess the SG was right then, it had been 1020 for 3 days..must have been done fermenting, right?
> 
> I hope that's not going to be the case with me antiphile.. because that'll mean I have glass bombs.. :unsure:
> 
> ...


Swing tops are pretty great, definitely easier but the downside is they're usually green (assuming grolsch) meaning hops dont love them as much as brown glass. But damn they're easy to fill and seal.


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## Chookers (11/12/15)

Nizmoose would you recommend them over plain old crown seals?.. Ive seen the brown swing tops for sale in the homebrewing shops.


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## wynnum1 (12/12/15)

bench capper the one i have looks like its home made the hand capper could be converted to a bench capper or put into a drill press.


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## stewy (12/12/15)

Chookers said:


> Thanks Nizmoose, I guess the SG was right then, it had been 1020 for 3 days..must have been done fermenting, right?
> 
> I hope that's not going to be the case with me antiphile.. because that'll mean I have glass bombs.. :unsure:
> 
> ...


What yeast did you use & what was the ferment temp schedule?
1020 seems too high. If you were using an English ale yeast they can stall at 1020 & sometimes need awakening. 
I would be very wary of bottle bombs. 
I regularly mash at 67-68C & it might affect FG by 1 or 2 points max... Definitely not finishing at 1020 unless you started at 1070+


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## Chookers (12/12/15)

Stewy

I mashed at 67 for 90mins, drained the bag, then put it in 5.6L that had been heated to 74 mixed it around abit and drained bag again. put all the liquid together and did an 80 min boil (I just checked my notes).. I think I boiled it too much. I had 10L at 1060 but I added some boiled water and got my OG to 1054. It got down to 1020 FG I checked it 3 days in a row and after having in the fridge for 3 days it was still 1020. So I bulk primed and bottled it.


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## stewy (12/12/15)

Hey Chookets

That is only 62% apparent attenuation - very low. 

What yeast did you use?

If you bottled in glass I would make sure their boxed up & in a safe place...


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## Chookers (12/12/15)

Stewy, yes they are safe and sound in cardboard boxes inside plastic shopping bags...

I have a few bottled in PET, so I can feel them.. if they are still good in 2 weeks I will put them (as many as I can) in the fridge.

I used the yeast that comes with the coopers pale ale kit (I know its not ideal), it was not what I had planned my US05 had died and I just used what I had at the time.

do you foresee explosions in my future.

I just read my last comment... I meant I checked the SG(1020) 3 days in a row (not in the fridge), then I put it in the fridge for three days, and then checked the SG again and still it was 1020.. so total days past was really 6 days.


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## stewy (12/12/15)

Hoping no bombs for you. 

In future, only bottle when FG is steady for 3 days provided it's in the attenuation range of the yeast. If you get 1.020, give the fermenter a gentle swirl a couple of times a day for a few days, raise temp & check again. 
I use mostly Wyeast 1968 & have had it stall at 1020. I actually stirred with a sanitised spoon & chekce 3 days later - 1012. 

Get em in the fridge as soon as the PET bottles are very firm to the squeeze


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## Chookers (13/12/15)

I will put them in the fridge.. will it stop the bomb?

Will have to drink them quick.. too


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## stewy (13/12/15)

Use the PET bottles as your guide. As soon as they are rock hard to squeeze I would throw them all into the fridge at coldest setting. This will put the yeast to sleep & stop them eating. 
Just to be on the safe side, wear sunglasses when handling the glass bottles. Blokes around here have copped bombs to the face. Not pretty!


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## Chookers (13/12/15)

Stewy, I would just carry them out in the carton, probably just shove the carton into the fridge.. you got me worrying now..

and I was already planning my next BIAB..

Was reading about doing step mashs in my book.. and heard they're good for wheat beers which Im planning on doing.. I was thinking to use Summer hops in it and do it 2:1 Wheat and Pilsner.. was looking at the yeast and have 3 in mind that I don't know much about but sound interesting WLP380, Safbrew WB-06 and US05..

Im after fruity (not so much Banana as is) the WLP380 stood out to me because the description mentioned apricot flavours.. has anyone used this?


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## Nizmoose (13/12/15)

Chookers said:


> Nizmoose would you recommend them over plain old crown seals?.. Ive seen the brown swing tops for sale in the homebrewing shops.


I would say they are definitely easier but given how many bottles I have at the moment I can't imagine wanting to have to pay for all of them. I get a heap of normal bottles for free from mates and that makes it much cheaper, a bench capper and normal caps work a treat and are great its just one little added bit in the bottling process. If I had an infinite supply of any bottle I wanted? Flip tops for sure, in reality? way to expensive for me. Hope that helps!


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## Chookers (13/12/15)

yeh Im the same, got a lot to the brown longnecks. I saw the brown flip tops in the home brew shop and they were more double the price of the crown.


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## Chookers (13/12/15)

how do you calculate the attenuation of the yeast, is there some formula?


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## antiphile (13/12/15)

Yeah, Chook. It's a pretty simple formula of:
Attenuation (in %) = ((OG - FG) times 100) divided by OG

You should be pretty right though. Good luck mate.

PS. I once did something stupid by either bottling too early or over priming, and was scared sheetless when I saw what an exploding bottle can do. Without a word of a lie, a large very pointy shard of glass from a tall Coopers bottle hit a wall about 20 feet away with a lot of force. If in doubt,please wear safety glasses.


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## Kingy (13/12/15)

Most of the yeast packets have an attenuation guide on them, but it comes down to ingredients and mash temperatures and yeast health and ferment temp etc. 
there are calculaters online that work the attenuation out for you after the beer is finished. 
I've only read a few posts through this thread but it seems like you didn't pitch enough yeast if it stalled at 1.020 the yeast might have died out. When I first started brewing many years ago all my beers finished with a high gravity as I was underpitching and my thermometer was out a few degrees to.


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## stux (14/12/15)

Chookers said:


> mashed at 67 for 90mins.
> 
> Will try the gelatine. Then after 2 days rack onto the priming sugar?
> 
> ...


Back in the mid 90s I used Milton. Before one shot, iodophor or starsan existed...

You need to thoroughly rinse the baby bleach off your bottles, which makes it not no rinse 

Suggest you use iodophor or starsan.


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## stux (14/12/15)

1.020 is quite high. Possible if your mash thermometer was out a few degrees you could've been mashing high. 

I'd leave the fermenter for an extra week personally.


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## Chookers (14/12/15)

its too late stux, they are in the bottles already.. my thermometer could be out by 4 degrees.. I just checked it.. damn.. well that's what I get.. I will use a different thermometer next time.. I have a digital probe thermometer my brother used to use in air conditioning, its range is -50 to 260 looks like this http://www.actrol.com.au/Products/Tools/Test--Measurement/Thermometers/Actrol-DigiTemps/

would this be sufficient.. its the only one I have.. apparently its very accurate but I have never used it. I was worried about infecting my beer.


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## Chookers (14/12/15)

I was just thinking.. since I do so small batches.. is it really necessary for me to mash in the bag.. I put the whole 15L pot in the heated oven keep temp stable and I have a 19L stock pot (that wont fit in the oven).. could I not line the 19L pot and pour the mash into it. This would lessen the chances of scorching the bag.. I was considering doing a step mash with the wheat beer.

Im getting

2kg Wheat Malt
1kg Pilsner
I have Summer hop pellets..
us05 yeast, or S05.. or T58 which I think could be dead
I have Whirlfloc tablets but no idea how to use them.. I know you put them in 10 from the end of boil..and that's all I know.

I was following Zwickel's Weizen recipe for instruction and grain ratio (kinda), but tried to adapt it to my size.
My intent was to make 11-12L of beer and put about 4L on some fruit (sample batch) and bottle the rest.

What can I do with this list.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (14/12/15)

Do a search for my 2pot stovetop method with ghetto lauter. It's not the best method by any stretch, but it'll give you an idea of what can be done with existing equipment on the stove. I've cranked 38L out of it one brew, and 2 award winning high grav beers at the same time.

It's a case if necessity being the mother of invention.


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## wynnum1 (14/12/15)

No need for the bag to mash easier to stir without bag i put the bag in the second pot and cup into the bag with a red  Decor Microsafe Soup Mug 450 ml Woolworths have had on special a couple of dollars not effected by heat .The digital probe is safe to use for mash as the wort is going to be boiled killing all possibility of infection.


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## TheBlackAdder (14/12/15)

Just remember a half batch will have a lot more evaporation on the same set up, and trub losses etc. will hurt you more

The first half batch I did I forgot to compensate and ended up with about 5.5L out of a planned 11.5

Decided to top up with water cos 5L was too depressing and ended up well under target gravity (in-promptu light beer)


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## Chookers (14/12/15)

BlackAdder, that's exactly what I did.. only I wasn't off by 5L more like 2L off the mark.. I'll add more for the future.. or reduce boil time.. I have just been reading that if you use hop pellets that after 30mins you got all the bitters your going to get anyway.. so what if I just reduce boil time instead of adding extra water? would this do the trick or would I be compromising flavour?


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## wynnum1 (15/12/15)

Work out what quanity is needed to do the whole brew and use in the mash or some to sparge the grain just adding boiling water later is a waste after the first draining the grain there will be goodness in the grain.
If the pot you use for the boil is too small put some of the wort in a second pot and boil seperatly and pour in after enouugh has evaporated.


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## Barge (15/12/15)

Plenty of benefits to a long, vigorous boil. From memory, a longer boil helps drive off DMS precursors (compound responsible for cooked corn flavour) as well as coagulating some unwanted proteins (I think).

MHB posted a good article on it but I'm on my phone so couldn't be bothered searching for it. I'll try later if I think of it.


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## stux (15/12/15)

Chookers said:


> its too late stux, they are in the bottles already.. my thermometer could be out by 4 degrees.. I just checked it.. damn.. well that's what I get.. I will use a different thermometer next time.. I have a digital probe thermometer my brother used to use in air conditioning, its range is -50 to 260 looks like this http://www.actrol.com.au/Products/Tools/Test--Measurement/Thermometers/Actrol-DigiTemps/
> 
> would this be sufficient.. its the only one I have.. apparently its very accurate but I have never used it. I was worried about infecting my beer.


Mashing at 71C instead of 67C could definitely explain your 1.020 FG. Especially if you add a point or two for poor yeast health, lack of oxygen, etc. 

You can use your current thermometer, you just need to know how out it is and then adjust it.


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## wynnum1 (15/12/15)

Dgital probe thermometer works well and if heating on stove top the temperature can be hard to workout if the mash is thick needs good mixing.


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## Chookers (15/12/15)

Im going to test my thermometers together and see just how out it was.. Im so glad we're working through all these problems, it will help me when I do my next one.. 2:1
Pilsner:Wheat.

it is:
2kg Pilsner
1kg Wheat

Really wanted to do a step mash, how much water should I use for this amount of grain? Can I do a step mash if I am BIAB, or will I have to do single infusion?


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## Reman (15/12/15)

For a step mash I just make sure the bag is off the bottom of the pot and turn the burner on and heat the mash until I hit the desired temperature. Very good for a 78c mash out.


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## stux (16/12/15)

You don't need to raise the bag, you just need a round cake rack in the pot.

Step mashes are easy in Biab. Turn on the heat, stir the mash while heating. Tada


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## Chookers (16/12/15)

So I threw all my bottles in the fridge today after squeezing the PET bottle and finding it quite tight.. should I open the glass bottles to let the pressure out and then just recap them..?

My bench capper is on its way, should be here by the end of the week.


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## wynnum1 (17/12/15)

Putting in the fridge good idea but will not stop over carbination only slow down .


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## Chookers (17/12/15)

Damn! just tested my probe thermometer it is BROKEN!!!! AAAaaah!

So its time to spend more money... new thermometer needed now.. any recommendations, how many $$ are they roughly

Thanks Stux.. so its okay to do a step mash using flame to raise temps instead of adding boiling water? Will I or should I still mash in my oven. The lowest I can heat it too is 70 and that's as low as my oven thermos goes too.

I have been reading Zwickels Hefe recipe and am intrigued by his method:

*Dough in* (what does that even mean) at 35
*ferulic acid rest* at 42 for 20min
*Proteinrest* at 52 for 20 min
*Beta amylase* 63 for 30 min
*Alpha amylase* 72 for30min
*mash out* at 78 (why do I need to mash out, whats the benefit?)

Zwickle had another similar one
43 for 20min
62 for 30min
72 for 30min
78 mash out

What would doing this contribute to the beer, it is going to have 2/3rds wheat malt and 1/3rd Pilsener.. I just want to get everything settled before I start this thing, so I know exactly what I'm doing and can get it all sorted.

Going to buy some wheat beer examples today to compare. Then I will have a clearer idea of what I'm going for here.


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## wynnum1 (17/12/15)

If doing stove top the time it takes to reach temperature counts.


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## pajs (17/12/15)

Chookers said:


> Damn! just tested my probe thermometer it is BROKEN!!!! AAAaaah!
> 
> So its time to spend more money... new thermometer needed now.. any recommendations, how many $$ are they roughly
> 
> ...


You might find it useful to take a bit of time to read one or two basic books on brewing before diving in to your next brews. Get a handle on the basic concepts and processes, the language used, and then apply it, look at how things went and figure out how to improve for next time. A decent book for getting across things is Palmer's 'How to Brew'. http://www.amazon.com/How-Brew-Everything-Right-First/dp/0937381888


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## TheBlackAdder (17/12/15)

pajs said:


> You might find it useful to take a bit of time to read one or two basic books on brewing before diving in to your next brews. Get a handle on the basic concepts and processes, the language used, and then apply it, look at how things went and figure out how to improve for next time. A decent book for getting across things is Palmer's 'How to Brew'. http://www.amazon.com/How-Brew-Everything-Right-First/dp/0937381888



A lot of which is available free here: http://www.howtobrew.com/



I second keeping it simple until you really understand the processes before attempting a 5-step mash

Mash in / mash out will still make great beers, even wheats


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## wynnum1 (17/12/15)

Is the probe thermometer broken battery contacts can be a problem.


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## antiphile (17/12/15)

Chookers said:


> Damn! just tested my probe thermometer it is BROKEN!!!! AAAaaah!
> 
> So its time to spend more money... new thermometer needed now.. any recommendations, how many $$ are they roughly
> 
> ...


Hi Chookers

I hope you don't take this suggestion as being rude or impertinent. There's a lot of people here that have invested a lot of time and suggestions to attempt to assist you, and granted some of those may have been taken on board, but some appear to have been ignored. Perhaps there also could be an issue of having some sort of shortfall in "the basics" of what has been suggested.

May I suggest you help yourself to any of the basic or intermediate references here, and then take a new look at what you'd like to precisely ask. I really do understand that it can be difficult to get enough knowledge to know what to ask, and I'm really not trying to take the piss, but I just get the idea that may be the problem here.

PS. I agree with several others that John Palmer's book may be a good start.

Cheers mate


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## SBOB (17/12/15)

Chookers said:


> Damn! just tested my probe thermometer it is BROKEN!!!! AAAaaah!
> 
> So its time to spend more money... new thermometer needed now.. any recommendations, how many $$ are they roughly
> 
> ...


I know all grain brewing is exciting, but you can spit out excellent beer via BIAB with a single mash temp + mashout step.
Why make your first brews more complex than they need to be, when you dont even know what a single mash temp brew is going to give you efficiency and beer output wise.
Without those basic starting values, how will you know whether a 5 step mash is 'improving' your efficiency or beer output or just adding 5 times more stress to the mash process.


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## Chookers (18/12/15)

Yes of course it is complicated and I was not planning on doing the step mash this time.. lol..

I was trying to understand this process, and using this wheat beer as an example..

Its hard to convey in writing, because it is just words.. and I am very excited by this whole project, I wanted to know how one would go about it if they did intend a step mash in a biab.. I am still getting up to speed on certain terms and I do have a book on home brewing, I don't know how good it is as far as home brew books go, I know its very old.. because the guy references the "world wide web" as if its a new thing..

Also I am still collecting my equipment.. as you might have guessed.. I am still quite limited and have ran out of funds to go any further for the time being.. I just got my order of Malt and such..

I suppose I could have asked a lot of my questions when the time came that they were relevant to me but I have been reading so much on this site and it has raise a lot of questions.. and despite how it might sound I am making informed decisions based on what I am reading here. I do a lot of things outside this forum, which I don't write down.

Does that all make any sense?


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## Reman (18/12/15)

For a hefe (as opposed to American Wheat) the 42c ferulic rest will give you more clove flavour during the ferment. I would just do 42c for 20min, 67c for 60min then mash out at 78c for 10 min.

The 78c mash out makes the sugars come out a little easier and it also stops the enzymes converting starch to sugar. Since you need to go through 78c to get to boiling, it doesn't really hurt to get to 78c before you pull the bag.


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## Chookers (18/12/15)

Thanks Reman.


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