# DIY Kegmenter



## Lionman (14/12/17)

So I'm exploring the option of making some kegmenters.

I have been doing a few batches in cornies but would really like some extra head space.

I have a plan which involves the following.

30L S-Type Keg - (remove the spear, wont need it)
2" tri clamp to 1/2" BSP adapter (2" tri clamp will attach to S-Type keg I think)
1/2" BSP Tee - screwed on to the tri clamp adapter with one end pointing up and the ther to the side.
1/2" BSP to 1/4" BSP adapter on each opening of the tee
1/4" liquid ball lock post on top opening of the tee with short dip tube
1/4" gas ball lock post on side opening of the tee with short tip tube
silicone dip tube from liquid post to bottom of keg

All up should be about $70-$80 for a 30L kegmenter.

This will allow easy pressurized fermenting, and will be very easy to remove the ball lock assembly for cleaning and filling, just undo the 2" tri clamp. The ball lock assembly could also be easily fitted to a 50L keg if wanting to do a double batch too at some stage.

I wouldn't mind a floating dip tube to aid in reducing sediment making to the serving keg. Would the fermentasaurus floating dip tube ball fit in the opening of a keg?

Any other issues I'm overlooking?


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## malt junkie (14/12/17)

They do make the exact 2" tri fitting to do this, unfortunately all are from the states, advantage being a few of them do come with built in thermowell, one includes a spray fitting that would make cleaning a breeze. Let me know if you want links, note they'll cost more than your quoted $80.

MJ


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## Lionman (14/12/17)

Yeah I've seen then the commercially available ones. They are more like 150AUD shipped I think.

From what I can tell, you can clamp a 2" tri fitting directly to the outlet of a sankey style keg. Not by design but it apparently works well.

One of these clamped on the keg outlet should make it fairly easy to fit some ball lock posts

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-2-to-2...var=510643879633&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649


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## DJ_L3ThAL (14/12/17)

Where do you acquire a 30L with S type connection? Are these like imported Japanese beer type kegs?


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## Hpal (14/12/17)

Here's mine. Can move the dip tube up and down


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## malt junkie (14/12/17)

Hpal said:


> View attachment 110435
> Here's mine. Can move the dip tube up and down


Bet you say that to all the girls eh!??!


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## Maheel (14/12/17)

Lionman said:


> From what I can tell, you can clamp a 2" tri fitting directly to the outlet of a sankey style keg. Not by design but it apparently works well.


you want the 64mm OD ferrule (often called 2") 

they fit nicely on A type kegs with a shaved silicone seal 
(shave off the ridge on one side of the seal) 

64mm to 1/2 bsp is a little tricky to find 

punkin @ stilldragon have some 
he also has a 64mm to a 1" bsp


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## Lionman (20/12/17)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> Where do you acquire a 30L with S type connection? Are these like imported Japanese beer type kegs?



There is a guy on gumtree in Perth with a few pallets of them. They where used to import some sort of European beer I think.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (20/12/17)

These https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/gna...beer-kegs-30litres-stainless-steel/1167901267 ?


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## pirateagenda (20/12/17)

i have 2 50L kegs i ferment in.

1 is an A type that I cut a hole to fit a corny lid, and drilled 2 holes and added weld less ball lock fittings to. Has a floating fermentasaurus dip tube. total cost was around $50

The other is a D type that I already had a coupling for. You can get ball lock fittings that screw onto the coupling. I shortened the dip tube 20mm to minimise trub pickup. Total cost was about $20 (already had the keg and coupling)

I used the first one mostly because it's heaps easier to clean with the corny lid, and remove the lid for dry hopping. The D type one is strictly for beers with no dry hop as it's a bit of a pain to remove the spear mid ferment.


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## Beerandpies (21/12/17)

Pirateagenda can you post some pics? I've got 2 kegs I want to modify.


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## pcqypcqy (21/12/17)

yeah, i'd be keen to see as well. How did you cut the lid?


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## pirateagenda (22/12/17)

There ya go. Made a plywood template to get the perfect size and shape for the hole then once the lid locked onto it, cut the hole with an angle grinder then used a worn grinding disc that was the perfect size to tidy up the hole.


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## Beerandpies (22/12/17)

Beauty mate. I'll get to it soon. I've got a mate with a plasma cutter that said he'd do it for a few beers.


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## Hpal (22/12/17)

Be careful with the plasma, it may fill the inside of the keg with spatter causing rust spots


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## S.E (22/12/17)

Angle grinder can cause rust spots also. Best fill the keg about half way with water before cutting.


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## mtb (22/12/17)

pirateagenda said:


> There ya go. Made a plywood template to get the perfect size and shape for the hole then once the lid locked onto it, cut the hole with an angle grinder then used a worn grinding disc that was the perfect size to tidy up the hole.


Some mighty fine scribble there pirate. You worried about Customer United Brands busting in your door?


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## Dae Tripper (23/12/17)

Here is mine.
I ended up putting large stainless washers around the o rings to stop them poping out under any more than hand torque.

Made it with an angle grinder (cut and flap disc), die grinder but mainly rats tail file, because the die grinder bit was stuffed.


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## Tony121 (23/12/17)

mtb said:


> Some mighty fine scribble there pirate. You worried about Customer United Brands busting in your door?



Unfortunately the file is not so scribbly.....

Pirate & Dae Tripper, you don't have any issues with the lid sealing? I'm keen to do the same thing as I have a couple of kegs ready and waiting for repurposing but was worried that the lid wouldn't seal correctly as is.


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## Dae Tripper (23/12/17)

Tony121 said:


> Unfortunately the file is not so scribbly.....
> 
> Pirate & Dae Tripper, you don't have any issues with the lid sealing? I'm keen to do the same thing as I have a couple of kegs ready and waiting for repurposing but was worried that the lid wouldn't seal correctly as is.



Seals rather well, the feet put a bit of extra pressure that helps it conform.


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## Tony121 (23/12/17)

Dae Tripper said:


> Seals rather well, the feet put a bit of extra pressure that helps it conform.


Great, thanks.


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## pirateagenda (24/12/17)

Tony121 said:


> Unfortunately the file is not so scribbly.....
> 
> Pirate & Dae Tripper, you don't have any issues with the lid sealing? I'm keen to do the same thing as I have a couple of kegs ready and waiting for repurposing but was worried that the lid wouldn't seal correctly as is.



Haha i have no idea how that happened as i only loaded the one file! 

Nil issues with the lid sealing


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## Tony121 (24/12/17)

pirateagenda said:


> Haha i have no idea how that happened as i only loaded the one file!
> 
> Nil issues with the lid sealing



The internet, who the bloody hell knows how this shit works?

Brilliant, thanks. Think I'll go the same way, just need to finish building my mill, finish the portable keg set up, add a third tap to the kegerator, covert the spare keg into a mash tun.......


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## nosco (24/12/17)

I did the same as pirateagenda with a 30lt keg. I bought from Tahoos. He said he could get e few through his work but I havnt seen him on here in a while. He was Seddon VIC or somewhere like that. I think I was the only one who bought one.


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## Micko71 (30/12/17)

Maheel said:


> you want the 64mm OD ferrule (often called 2")
> 
> they fit nicely on A type kegs with a shaved silicone seal
> (shave off the ridge on one side of the seal)
> ...


Beauty mate. Thanks for that. I should be able to use this for a ball valve , turn keg upside down and do the corny mods on top( the bottom of the keg) instant conical fv. Sweet. So over trying to clean the A type kegs I use as fv's. Cheers. Mick.


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## Micko71 (30/12/17)

pirateagenda said:


> i have 2 50L kegs i ferment in.
> 
> 1 is an A type that I cut a hole to fit a corny lid, and drilled 2 holes and added weld less ball lock fittings to. Has a floating fermentasaurus dip tube. total cost was around $50
> 
> ...


Hey where did u get the weld less fittings from ? Ive been searching online all day. Cheers. Mick.


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## seamad (30/12/17)

Micko71 said:


> Beauty mate. Thanks for that. I should be able to use this for a ball valve , turn keg upside down and do the corny mods on top( the bottom of the keg) instant conical fv. Sweet. So over trying to clean the A type kegs I use as fv's. Cheers. Mick.


With the low angle, I can't see the point in putting a valve on the bottom of a keg, It's not going to work like a conical. I thought of putting a triclamp gate valve and then a sight glass to collect yeast, with the aid of some regular rubber malleting to encourage the yeast down, but the cost/effort type of negates the simplicity of the idea. I'd personally just cut out the keg coupling to fit the corny lid.


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## Micko71 (30/12/17)

seamad said:


> With the low angle, I can't see the point in putting a valve on the bottom of a keg, It's not going to work like a conical. I thought of putting a triclamp gate valve and then a sight glass to collect yeast, with the aid of some regular rubber malleting to encourage the yeast down, but the cost/effort type of negates the simplicity of the idea. I'd personally just cut out the keg coupling to fit the corny lid.


Yea i get you. But i was thinking with a 90deg bend at 2.5" plus the valve & fittings it may just be worthy. But after getting on eBay and buying couple bits from China I realised its just too dear for the outcome. So now I'm looking for a conical ss around 50-60 litres. Everyone seems to be out of stock. I'm over fv kegs. Ill just use them for serving. Cheers.


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## HaveFun (2/1/18)

hey guys,

I'm thinking to get me two of those:







and fit them with a corny keg lid. Is it possible?

The other option is a $300 kegmeter from mangrove jacks..

Cheers Stefan


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## Moog (2/1/18)

I've also been thinking about doing this as well, anyone know how to get a 30L keg on the gold coast?


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## pirateagenda (3/1/18)

Micko71 said:


> Hey where did u get the weld less fittings from ? Ive been searching online all day. Cheers. Mick.


https://www.ebay.com.au/i/291726879...%3D705-139619-5960-0%26rvr_id%3D1407502308585


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## HaveFun (8/1/18)

what size bulkhead fitting do I need for the corny keg beer coupler?


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## HaveFun (13/1/18)

all done, i am quite happy.
Its keep the pressure since last night.


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## Maheel (13/1/18)

HaveFun said:


> all done, i am quite happy.
> Its keep the pressure since last night.



out of interest what are you doing for a beer out dip tube ?


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## fdsaasdf (13/1/18)

HaveFun said:


> all done, i am quite happy.
> Its keep the pressure since last night.


Looks good, what did you use to cut the keg lid hole?


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## HaveFun (14/1/18)

Maheel said:


> out of interest what are you doing for a beer out dip tube ?



I use the fermentasaurus float and silicone dip tube. 

http://www.oxebar.com.au/fermentasaurus/index.php/fermentasaurus-products/pressure-kit.html

cheers
stefan


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## HaveFun (14/1/18)

fdsaasdf said:


> Looks good, what did you use to cut the keg lid hole?



first, i drilled a lot of small holes around and then I used a jigsaw.

cheers
stefan


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## fdsaasdf (15/1/18)

HaveFun said:


> first, i drilled a lot of small holes around and then I used a jigsaw.
> 
> cheers
> stefan


Thanks, seems you have a steadier hand with a jigsaw than I do (haven't tried to cut a keg but haven't had great success neatly cutting stainless).


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## malt junkie (15/1/18)

I've previously used a grinder or dremel. Dremel would be the way to with this particular job. Make a template, mark the keg with a shapie, the with the dremel create a light groove on the line, continue to follow that same groove till you've cut right the way through. You will still need to tidy up with a file/grinder, take it slowly and you should be fine.


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## KegLand-com-au (15/1/18)

Hey guys,

I just wanted to put a quick questions out to you guys. We are looking to either make 58Liter Kegmenters or 50L kegmenters. The 58Liter ones are about 40mm higher and the price is only $6 more for the 58L model.

Based on these facts would you guys be more interested in the 58L size or the 50L size?

Some customers seem to be using the Kegmenters for brewing 50L batches so it seems to make sense that if you are going to rack this off into a 50L keg that you have a bit more head space in the fermenter itself.

If you guys were kind enough to vote that would be appreciated and based on the vote we will stock one or the other.


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## pcqypcqy (15/1/18)

KegLand-com-au said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I just wanted to put a quick questions out to you guys. We are looking to either make 58Liter Kegmenters or 50L kegmenters. The 58Liter ones are about 40mm higher and the price is only $6 more for the 58L model.
> 
> ...



I do double batches (10 gallons) and find the 50 litre kegmenter is fine.

What I'd prefer is a bigger tri clover fitting on the roof. I understand there'd be a cost difference but if that thing was 6 inches rather than 4, I could get my arm in and clean the thing properly. Not sure if that's an option for you to look at.


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## Maheel (15/1/18)

i have been using 50L kegmenter for 2X 19l kegs after losses from diptube etc and keeping a head space i reckon 58L would be "better" 

are you thinking something like a 4" triclover unit on top ?


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## KegLand-com-au (15/1/18)

Maheel said:


> i have been using 50L kegmenter for 2X 19l kegs after losses from diptube etc and keeping a head space i reckon 58L would be "better"
> 
> are you thinking something like a 4" triclover unit on top ?



Yes we did have plans to continue to use the 4" triclover on the top.

The diameter is a trade off with pressure. So the larger you go the more difficult it is to make the lid seal.

Typically with the 4" tri-clover you can get it to seal up at about 3 bar however if you go to 6"inch you might only get about 2 bar.

So the question is do you prefer the larger opening enough to be able to accept a lower working pressure?


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## Grott (15/1/18)

58l for me


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## fdsaasdf (15/1/18)

If there was option for 58L with 6in fitting I'd be all over it. I don't have a need to operate over 2bar...


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## Digga (15/1/18)

58L and 6 inch hole. More head space for 50L batches!


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## mtb (15/1/18)

fdsaasdf said:


> If there was option for 58L with 6in fitting I'd be all over it. I don't have a need to operate over 2bar...


Automatic pressure release over 30PSI would be awesome as well. For many purposes it would eliminate the need for a spunding valve entirely.


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## pcqypcqy (15/1/18)

2 bar is 29 psi which is more than enough for brewing purposes. Will let you fully carbonate most styles at warm temperatures and then cold crash.


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## mtb (15/1/18)

^ my point exactly - and no longer needing a spunding valve would make a pressure fermenter very enticing for purchase.


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## pcqypcqy (15/1/18)

mtb said:


> ^ my point exactly - and no longer needing a spunding valve would make a pressure fermenter very enticing..




I don't mind the valve, I just wish it was more adjustable and came with a gauge that covered the required range.

Spunding valves are not strictly sanitary so having one built in could be problematic. I like being able to remove it and pull it apart for cleaning.


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## fdsaasdf (15/1/18)

pcqypcqy said:


> I don't mind the valve, I just wish it was more adjustable and came with a gauge that covered the required range.
> 
> Spunding valves are not strictly sanitary so having one built in could be problematic. I like being able to remove it and pull it apart for cleaning.


I certainly don't want a valve built in but am happy enough with a vessel that self-vents at 30psi  . I'd be planning to use a removable spunding valve (e.g. ball lock QD).


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## malt junkie (15/1/18)

I'd be on the 58L band wagon too, though not fussed 4 or 6 inch opening.


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## Mr B (15/1/18)

A lot of arms find 4” difficult. 6 and 58 would get me in to this, whereas I am not currently as it’s all a bit so so despite the interest


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## malt junkie (15/1/18)

Mr B said:


> A lot of arms find 4” difficult.



Break a scaphoid (tiny bone in your wrist) you'll be in a cast 10 to 12 weeks, your arm will then easily fit through said 4" opening.

Problem solved!
(seems I've done this for a second time to my right hand see the doc tomoz for the results. Though upside I have 2 50L kegmenters that need cleaning so I be good to go when I get the cast off. Down side I can brew with said cast on)


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## Jack of all biers (15/1/18)

If I was to get one for $6 more then I'd get a 58L over a 50L, as more volume adds more potential to a piece of kit. However with a taller brew fridge in my repertoire now, I can afford to say such stuff.


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## pirateagenda (20/1/18)

Pressure hose with an adjustable head negates the need for a bigger opening anyway. 
58 would be better though. I normally brew doubles in a 50l and have had krausen overflows when dry hopping.


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## wide eyed and legless (20/1/18)

Being as I can drink ordinary bitter quicker than I can make it I will be going for a 60 litre pressure fermenter,(make it myself) no worrying about any blow off going through the spunding that will be isolated out of the way.


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## nathang28 (23/1/18)

My vote is for 58L with corny keg fittings. Can still get in there to clean and aligns with all my other kegs.

I am planning a sour solera and this size keg with corny fittings would be perfect for long aging with minimum 02 ingress.


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## wide eyed and legless (23/1/18)

60 litre fermenter, easy to clean and fit all your bits and pieces to.

*Drum Heavy Duty 60LT - D60*





BRAND NEW Open head container with metal c clamp on lid. These are food grade and heavy duty.










Click on image for more views.


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## Milk-lizard84 (23/1/18)

The 26l kegmenters would be perfect. Definitely putting my vote in for these. Perfect for single batch size and a small solera project.


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## rossbaker (23/1/18)

Milk-lizard84 said:


> The 26l kegmenters would be perfect. Definitely putting my vote in for these. Perfect for single batch size and a small solera project.


+1 for this. Or even just 26l kegs. It makes sense to offer a single batch option to the folks who are going to buy robobrews from you and will only be able to brew 23 litre batches. The ibrew ones look great but are a bit too exy for me atm.


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## wide eyed and legless (23/1/18)

How come the topic of the thread has changed from DIY Kegmenter to a 'which kegmenter do you want to buy' thread?


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## brewgasm (16/5/18)

KegLand-com-au said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I just wanted to put a quick questions out to you guys. We are looking to either make 58Liter Kegmenters or 50L kegmenters. The 58Liter ones are about 40mm higher and the price is only $6 more for the 58L model.
> 
> ...


I would like both, the 58 to ferment in and the 50 to transfer to and serve from.

Edit the 26 is a great idea and would be very well received in the market


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## KegLand-com-au (16/5/18)

Hey guys. Thanks for all your feedback. We have decided to go with the 29L and 58L Kegmenters. It seemed like we had slightly more interested in the 58L model so we have settled for these two designs.

I should also say that we will soon have these kegmenters available with the floating dip tube design. So they will have the silicon dip tube with stainless float as you can see in the image here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html

We feel that the floating dip tube is probably the best option for customers wanting to draw the clearest possible liquid from the unit. I assume you guys would be ok with the silicon dip tubes?


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## KegLand-com-au (16/5/18)

Also for your interest we are also starting to stock these concentric reducers so we can recuce the 4inch opening to 2 inch opening. This part allows you to attach one of our Alcoengine reflux stills to your kegmenter then you can fit the kegmenter with a heating element and use the kegmenter as a distillation boiler.

https://www.kegland.com.au/4inch-to-2inch-concentric-reducer-for-kegmenter-still-attachment.html

So this part will alow you to attach these two stills to the Kegmenter:
https://www.kegland.com.au/alcoengine-reflux-pure-distilling-aparatus.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/alcoengine-pure-distilling-pot-still.html

If any of you guys were interested in making a video on using these parts we would pay you to make a video for us. Otherwise we will just make the video ourselves and upload to youtube.


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## Milk-lizard84 (23/5/18)

I'd be keen to make a video but I'm guessing we would need to purchase the parts ourselves?


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## Milk-lizard84 (23/5/18)

Would the video just be for the attachments or for the kegmenters themselves?


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## KegLand-com-au (23/5/18)

Milk-lizard84 said:


> I'd be keen to make a video but I'm guessing we would need to purchase the parts ourselves?



If you made a good video we would be more than happy to reimburse you for all the cost of the parts if you like. If you would like to talk further about this just email us at [email protected]


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## mashmaniac (23/5/18)

Being in possession of a still greater than 20L requires a license and government regs etc etc, actually any still requires ATO permissions licencing of some sort. 
I mean if your going to fracture the law at least have plausible deniability and have the thing in pieces when the Feds turn up. Taking a video of oneself doing so is just ...... well nuff said.

carry on nothing to see here....


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## Denobrew (23/5/18)

I'll do it. I live in NZ and work in Australia, easy to ship parts back in the checked in luggage. It's also legal in NZ. Might be a while off though. Got a couple of other projects on the go atm


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## wide eyed and legless (4/6/18)

Getting into pressure fermenting for less than $120 including spunding valve.
Plastic keg, will pressure test the keg tomorrow, seeing as the normal poxy plastic fermenter went above 40 PSI, my confidence is that this will be well in the scope of a pressure ferment.
Fit posts and floating dip tube and away we go. Plastic kegs come in 25, 50 and 60 litres. 
This is the 50 litre.


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## brewgasm (4/6/18)

wide eyed and legless said:


> Getting into pressure fermenting for less than $120 including spunding valve.
> Plastic keg, will pressure test the keg tomorrow, seeing as the normal poxy plastic fermenter went above 40 PSI, my confidence is that this will be well in the scope of a pressure ferment.
> Fit posts and floating dip tube and away we go. Plastic kegs come in 25, 50 and 60 litres.
> This is the 50 litre.
> View attachment 112722


Where did you get the barrel?


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## wide eyed and legless (4/6/18)

I got it at Home Make It, they do deliver interstate I believe but you could always use these-
https://www.theplasticman.com.au/collections/drums-jerry-cans/products/drum-heavy-duty-60lt
Now they will hold a large amount of pressure, but realistically and doing it as Terry Fahrendorf initially suggested, not all that much pressure is needed.


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## wide eyed and legless (5/6/18)

Pressure tested the plastic keg to 24 PSI, more than enough for what I need fitted floating dip tube,gas and liquid posts and ready to go. Probably will not get a lot of use apart from family events on the calendar.



May make up a couple more 28 litre cubes and put quick disconnect posts on the so I can use the picnic tap on those for drinking straight from the fermenter.


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## S.E (5/6/18)

wide eyed and legless said:


> Pressure tested the plastic keg to 24 PSI, more than enough for what I need fitted floating dip tube,gas and liquid posts and ready to go. Probably will not get a lot of use apart from family events on the calendar.
> View attachment 112725
> View attachment 112726
> 
> ...


Hey WEAL, those barrels look almost exactly (if they didn’t have handles) like the UK pressure barrels/casks that I first got the idea to use plastic cubes as casks from.

What sort of tap do they take in place of that red plug?


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## wide eyed and legless (5/6/18)

Here you go Sean, didn't know they had 100 litre as well. These are Italian are the ones you were thinking of the King Keg ones.
https://www.homemakeit.com.au/products/fermenter-plastic-50lt-blow-molded-with-air-lock-tap


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## S.E (7/6/18)

wide eyed and legless said:


> These are Italian are the ones you were thinking of the King Keg ones.


The ones I was thinking of are the UK pressure barrels like these http://www.thebrewshop.com/contents...e_Brew_Beer_Barrel_System_5_Gall_40_Pint.html

Or these http://www.thebrewshop.com/contents/en-uk/p700.html

I couldn’t find any when I moved here but found a cube did the job if I sealed the tap with a little lube.

Edit: the barrels I linked have 2” caps but others take these 4” caps http://www.thebrewshop.com/contents/en-uk/p708.html that look similar to your barrels.


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## peterlonz (8/6/18)

I reckon you'd need to be very skillful to cut that relatively small oval hole with an angle grinder.
If I knew a "better" way I'd say. But I think I'd start by trying a hole saw with the smallest tungsten teeth I could find. 
Last time I tried that on a stainless drip try, half way through the tungsten tips ripped of. 
I laboriously completed with several rats tail/round files.
A die grinder would smooth off quite well but the small stones are not cheap.
The best method deserves some consideration since obviously many here would have a go.
BTW I was also unsure exactly how the in & out fittings were secured.


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## wide eyed and legless (8/6/18)

When I was going to make mine using a stainless steel keg, I made a fly cutter to cut the top out, just a bit of emery cloth to clean it up, neat and tidy and simplest way. Still may do it often go past a scrap metal place on Huntingdale road that often have kegs for $50, some have looked like they have only been used once.


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## DaveGillespie (26/9/18)

Did anyone build this as outlined in the first post?


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## Boxcar (26/9/18)

IMO, currently the best TC adapter for fermenting in a commercial keg is from Brewhardware. https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SankeFermenterKit_pressure

No cutting/mods to the keg - keep a nice sanitary vessel/connection. This adapter has less parts than rolling your own because they've custom-machined the main block to have all the necessary & different threads for the dip-tube compression fitting, ball lock post & accessory port (spunding valve, etc.) Includes thermowell in either of two lengths for full-height or squat kegs like 30L.


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## sp0rk (26/9/18)

You can make the same thing with a few bits and pieces, no cutting needed
Brewhardware also don't sell this anymore
The below adapter, a seal/clamp, 1/2" tee, racking cane, a couple of compression fittings, some reducers and ball lock posts will do it
Plus then add in the spunding valve that is in the current BB and you're set
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/gr...049.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.1e093640JRInSd


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## Boxcar (26/9/18)

sp0rk said:


> Brewhardware also don't sell this anymore



It's their current design, introduced summer 2017 - they sell out quickly, though they're regularly back in stock. You can make "something" similar with other parts, but you can't make the "same thing" unless you also custom-mill your own fittings - that's what makes this iteration the best around.

BTW, even a standard compression fitting needs to be bored out to allow passing through a tube. At the price Brewhardware has these, it's just not worth the time/effort to roll your own, especially when the parts costs alone will only save a few $.


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## sp0rk (26/9/18)

I'm sure I saw Bobby say somewhere they're not making them for now.
Shipping is cost preventative, IMHO
Just checking with the other Sanke Conversion kit, it's $48 AUD shipping
I'm going to guess you're in America, aren't you?

For people who like making chips in the workshop, half the fun of brewing is making gear like this yourself.
With this stuff only being available in the last few years, most of us have had to fabricobble things for a while now


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## DaveGillespie (26/9/18)

I'm UK based so postage and customs charges on that would likely be prohibitive as well.

Part of the appeal of the Tee plus corny gas dip tube approach would be that I could attach a Caskwidge or similar floating pickup so dry hops could be added in primary. 2" tri clamp to 1/2" BSP seem to be as rare as hens teeth.


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## sp0rk (27/9/18)

DaveGillespie said:


> tri clamp to 1/2" BSP seem to be as rare as hens teeth.


The one I posted above is the only one I can find (other than a $50 one from the states) after a few weeks of searching using all kinds of search terms
I have been tempted to buy some 2" triclamp caps, drill them off centre, braze in a 1/2" threaded pipe cut in half and then add a thermowell as well
Hmmm, could be a handy little side business if people would buy them...


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## DaveGillespie (27/9/18)

Here's what I'm thinking, simple and very similar to the OP.

2" TC to 1/2" Male NPT https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32620861308.html
4 way 1/2" Female NPT https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32852068219.html
1/2" to 1/4" NPT bushes x3 https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32861709517.html
Corny posts on 1/4" bulkhead https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32842315956.html

Bottom of the 4 way screws onto TC fitting. Left side gets reducing bush and Gas bulkhead post. Right hand side gets a reducing bush and an old 1/4" NPT adjustable PRV I removed from a KK style Spunding valve. Top gets the liquid post bulkhead with a corny gas dip tube onto which goes some 6mm ID/10mm OD Silicone tubing that can then either act as a standard diptube or can be rigged with a float.

Attached spunding valve will be set to 30psi and left there, finer pressure adjustments will be made with a Spunding valve on the gas post. I'm using the old valve because it's on hand and because 30psi ring pull valves don't seem to be as cheaply available as 120psi ones. I'd prefer a proper 30psi ring pull type if anyone has seen one on Ali.

The only possible downfall is - will the liquid bulkhead accept a dip tube between the post and bulkhead assembly?


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## sp0rk (27/9/18)

I feel that 2 spunding valves is just unnecessary
a tee fitting and ball lock to a decent spunding valve is all you need
It's going to blow before the 30psi one will (because I doubt you'll be fermenting over 15psi)


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## DaveGillespie (27/9/18)

The second 30psi valve is really for final carbonation. I'd be starting fermentation at lower PSI but allowing to reach ~30 for final carbonation. This way I can take my ball lock spunding valve away after my initial lower pressure period and be using that on a Corny potentially.


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## peterlonz (28/9/18)

Using an angle grinder, even with well worn disc, to cut what needs to be a precision hole does not sound straightforward to me. However clearly it's doable.
I wonder what the effect on max pressure capacity is with the newly cut oval hole, anyone bothered to do a test at say 100 PSI?
I think you'd need arms like a gorilla to manhandle such a keg & that counts me out.


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## sp0rk (28/9/18)

peterlonz said:


> Using an angle grinder, even with well worn disc, to cut what needs to be a precision hole does not sound straightforward to me. However clearly it's doable.
> I wonder what the effect on max pressure capacity is with the newly cut oval hole, anyone bothered to do a test at say 100 PSI?
> I think you'd need arms like a gorilla to manhandle such a keg & that counts me out.


You basically VERY lightly score around your marked out hole, working deeper and deeper very slowly until you've worked your way through


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## Lionman (5/10/18)

I don't think the hole needs to be that precise. The seals on corny lids are pretty fat and they sit a fair way out from the edge of the opening so there is a fair bit of tolerance there to play with.

I would recommend erring on the smaller side when first cutting the hole. Its easy to grind a little more, it a bit harder to ungrind.

Make a cardboard template that fits the lid perfectly and use that as a stencil on the keg. Trace around it was a sharpie and cut that out. You can cut quickly and bit more roughly a couple of mm in from the markings and then grind your way to the pen marks with more precision.


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## Neil Harvey (6/10/18)

Anyone tried this with the reducer upside down on a 2" keg outlet?
https://www.kegland.com.au/4inch-to-2inch-concentric-reducer-for-kegmenter-still-attachment.html
With this on top.
https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html
Just not sure if the ball on the dip tube will go through the 2" keg opening.


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## Maheel (6/10/18)

Neil Harvey said:


> Anyone tried this with the reducer upside down on a 2" keg outlet?
> https://www.kegland.com.au/4inch-to-2inch-concentric-reducer-for-kegmenter-still-attachment.html
> With this on top.
> https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html
> Just not sure if the ball on the dip tube will go through the 2" keg opening.




like you said the ball may no fit.


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## Maheel (6/10/18)

you can just cut the spear back on a 50 L so you don't pick up the dry hop.

I mostly pressure ferment in 23l kegs now but i have a 50L A type where i have cut the spear and just use a keg coupler modded to ball lock and a PRV on it 
if you can get a cheap coupler it works well.

I rinse out and then put in boiling water and pbw, cleans out the crud 
if really dry crud i soak 1st and blast with a "spray wand" i made from a bent bit of 1/4 copper pipe


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## DaveGillespie (13/10/18)

Question for folks using triclamp on Sanke - did you trim the ridge off the keg side of your gasket or not?

If not, have you had any seal problems?


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## ibegood (13/10/18)

have just automatically cut the rib off the gasket on one side, not tried without.


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## sp0rk (13/10/18)

I had sealing problems with my "water purifier" before I shaved one side off the seal
Though mine were EPDM, so I cut the rib off, then got it good and smooth working up through sandpaper grits to 2000 grit
Or you can buy one pre made https://www.5stardistilling.com.au/product/8-epdm-tri-clamp-seal-copy/


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