# Bulk Priming



## Glenn Brown (29/8/11)

Hi all,



I generally use kegs but have decided to bottle my latest brew (Stout) in order to keg other easier drinking beers. 



I have not bulk primed before and I was wondering is it as simple as dumping x amount of Dextrose per litre of beer into the fermenter? 



Thanks

G


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## Phoney (29/8/11)

Yes, but to work out the x use the calculator.

http://webspace.webring.com/people/ms/sirl...Calculator.html


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## Glenn Brown (29/8/11)

Thats great. Thanks mate.


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## technoicon (29/8/11)

I've never actually done bulk priming but a few swap beers i have did, and most were over carbed. I prefer to use drops, probably cost a bit more but more accurate results in the end. from my experience.


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## going down a hill (29/8/11)

Bulk priming when done correctly (mixed through the beer well) is far more accurate at carbonation. You can also change bottle size and not worry about how much of the drop you have to put in as the primmer is already mixed in.


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## thegasherrulz (29/8/11)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bulk-Primi...Brew-Made-Easy/


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## Bribie G (29/8/11)

If using PET bottles then one of these per 750ml bottle gives a really good all purpose carb level. Cheap and dead easy.





However they don't fit through the neck of glass bottles.


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## adniels3n (29/8/11)

phoneyhuh said:


> Yes, but to work out the x use the calculator.
> 
> http://webspace.webring.com/people/ms/sirl...Calculator.html



The "Beer Temperature" is storage temp right? Not serving temp?


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## MaltyHops (29/8/11)

Muddzy said:


> The "Beer Temperature" is storage temp right? Not serving temp?


No, except perhaps in a very round about way.

The Beer Temp refers to the temperature that your fermenting beer
has been exposed to before it goes into a bottle.

The first thing to keep in mind is that the amount of dissolved CO2 in
beer is temperature dependent - the warmer it gets, the more CO2 will
gas out of the beer and escape (esp. in a fermenter with airlock/wrap
that doesn't keep a high pressure).

I think the second thing to keep in mind is that the amount of CO2 being
generated by fermenting yeast changes as the fermentation progresses
from very high during the most active primary stage to fairly low towards
the end of the ferment.

So the stage at which your fermenting beer is exposed to high-ish
temperatures has some bearing to priming. If it happens during the active
stage, then it wont matter so much as the yeast will easily generate enough
to replace any large losses of CO2. 

OTOH, if your beer was exposed to a high-ish temperature like 25C say
pretty much when fermenation has stopped, then the Beer Temp to use
in the calculator to calculate how much sugar/glucose/malt to use would
be 25C.

An example of the first case might be say your fermenting beer got
exposed to 25C for a day during the active fermenting stage (not a good
thing, but let's say it happened) and then for the rest of the time until your
beer finished fermenting it stayed at a steady 18C, then the Beer Temp to
use for calculating priming sugars to use would be 18C.

Obviously it's not easy to know/figure out exactly what temp your beer got
exposed to during fermentation (unless you have temperature logger :huh: )
but you could try to get a good idea if possible. If in any doubt, select a lower
CO2 volume to prime to (e.g. 2.5vols instead of 3.0vols).

T.

PS. I also have posted some _Beer Bulk Priming Charts_ based on the calculator
linked earlier.


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## adniels3n (29/8/11)

MaltyHops said:


> No, except perhaps in a very round about way



Very informative & much appreciated Malty. Especially at 11pm :lol:


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## Greg.L (30/8/11)

I use 5-6 g/L, gives a low level of carb that is refreshing without being annoying.


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## unionrdr (31/8/11)

I use this calculator;priming calc to figure how much priming sugar per BJCP standards. You can change the co2 volume amount after plugging in your style. You can choose what you prime with as well. Easy to use. It's just far more accurate,& not at all complicated. Also works with Celsius or Fahrenheit. I've found that bulk priming is not only more accurate than cooper's carb drops,but it won't over carbonate when done correctly. The calculator also takes temps into consideration. I've even plugged in the temp @ bottling,& it worked great.


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## Guysmiley54 (31/8/11)

Bribie G said:


> If using PET bottles then one of these per 750ml bottle gives a really good all purpose carb level. Cheap and dead easy.
> 
> View attachment 47928
> 
> ...



Do you ever worry about sanitisation when using these?


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## HalfWit (6/12/15)

Hi, I seem to be slightly overcarbing on these online calculators. I ferment my APA @ 20, than crash chill. What is a good gram per litre I could follow?


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## manticle (6/12/15)

Depends on desired fizz level which will be dictated by personal preference and style to some extent.

How much are you using that is currently giving overcarbed beer?

As a rough guide, I use (or did before kegging) between 80 and 110g per 20 L, plain white sugar or dextrose, dissolved first in boiling water. I like my fizz at the low end. Some will use up to 180g or more for the same volume. Getting over that is pushing towards exploding bottles.

Also ensure your beer is not still fermenting when bottling.


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## kunfaced (6/12/15)

Just make sure your FG is constant for a few days before bottling, cause that's where you are going to run into overcarbing problems. This can then lead to bottle bombs, and from what I've read it's not fun getting glass surgically removed.

You can use dextrose for the job, but I wouldn't. There is a massive price difference between sucrose and dextrose that I can't justify through notable taste.


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## Ducatiboy stu (6/12/15)

Coopers use 5g/L for all there beers ( Came direct from the mouth of Dr Tim when I asked him ) so use that as a guide.

Bulk priming is the only way to go in my book, although you will need another vessel


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## Nicko83 (12/12/15)

going down a hill said:


> Bulk priming when done correctly (mixed through the beer well) is far more accurate at carbonation. You can also change bottle size and not worry about how much of the drop you have to put in as the primmer is already mixed in.


I agree. I only ever bulk prime now. Find a good calculator and get yourself a bucket/fermenter to rack your beer into before bottling so you don't mix all the yeast and hops and shizz into your bottled beer, and you'll be home and hosed!


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## Reman (12/12/15)

I bulk prime in my fermenter and never had an issue and saves needing an extra container. Makes it easy and simple.


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## Bridges (13/12/15)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> Coopers use 5g/L for all there beers ( Came direct from the mouth of Dr Tim when I asked him ) so use that as a guide.


I find that really interesting as their carb drops are nominally 2.5 grams a go and they recommend 1 for stubbies and 2 for a long neck. So they want your home brew to have a higher carb than they turn out themselves. 
Cool info thanks Stu.


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## wynnum1 (13/12/15)

"Coopers use 5g/L" there can be more or less co2 in the beer when bottled and Coopers would be in refrigerated controled containers different to home brew .


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## Digga (13/12/15)

Coopers recommend 8g/L on their diy site


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## Ducatiboy stu (14/12/15)

wynnum1 said:


> "Coopers use 5g/L" there can be more or less co2 in the beer when bottled and Coopers would be in refrigerated controled containers different to home brew .


True, But that hat Dr Tim told me when I asked him in person. Very nice and open guy 

I always prime on the lower side, just my preference.


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