# Sanke Fermenter Kit



## hockadays (12/5/11)

Hi there,

Just thought I'd show what I've been playing with at the moment. I've been fermenting in a 50L sanke keg legally obtained of course as I'm sick of using two plastic fermenter for a 40L batch. First few batches went well but getting the beer out proved tricky. I then purchased a sanke fermenter kit from brewers hardware in the US and with a couple of extra bits from Ross at Craftbrewer I now have a very efficient fermenter. I have a John guest ball valve from Ross with a reducer that fits on the beer out part of the kit and a 3/8 silicone blow off tube for the airlock. The probe from my fridge controller goes down inside the thermowell to control temp. The whole fitting goes into the keg mouth with the spear removed and clamps on with a 2" triclover clamp. The welding on the fitting is very good and I'm very happy with the overall quality of the product from brewers hardware. The beer out tube is adjustable so you can lower it down to pick the beer up just above the yeast cake to minimize loss. After your finished racking to the keg you lower it a bit further to harvest the yeast. I attach my gas line to the blow off tube so I rack under pressure two kegs at once and this took about 10mins. You can obviously put a filter inline and rack via filter under pressure as well. CLeaning of the keg I fit a 2" blank triclover fitting and put about 10L of PBW at 60degc and let soak over night and it comes up very clean. Inspecting the cleanliness is the only downside but it can be done with a mirror and torch. I've done 10 batches in this so far and wont be going back to plastic and haven't had an infection. The next stage which is also possible with this setup is when the beer is 2/3rds fermented attaching a spunding valve to the airlock and letting it self carb up. I havent done this yet as Ive only just received the JG valve so i'll give this a go on the pilsener I'm about to make. enjoy!!

Hockers


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## Bribie G (12/5/11)

Awesome, and all metal so if you have a source of steam you can steam clean the lot. I've just gone the other way and bought a 60L plastic. It's one big mofo of a fermenter, makes a normal 30L look like a teacup standing next to it. The plastic ones actually hold about 75L - the 60L mark is quite well down on the side of the fermenter. 

I've bought a bulkhead fitting from Ross to take my naked gas line and the procedure is:


Double batch into the fermenter
After primary, crank the fridge down to -1 for a week
On kegging day slide the fermenter out onto my little flat trolley on castors and wheel it over to the gas
Remove clingwrap and fit lid and insert gas line into bulkhead
Turn gas pressure up
Fill first keg via silicone hose from tap
FV is now light enough to lift onto bench
Fill second keg via gravity.

I'm so impressed with the size of the thing I'm considering doing an over gravity 2-urn brew and filling 3 cornies = 57L will still leave mobs of headspace.
(cutting back with RO water at the same time as I pitch)


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## A3k (12/5/11)

sweet idea, any idea if you can get them for different type kegs other than the Sanke ones? I'm guessing they'd require different clamps?


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## hockadays (12/5/11)

Not sure have a look at the opening with the spear removed, it should be 2 inch and look similiar to a triclover fitting..


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## mintsauce (12/5/11)

I want me one of these:





If anyone know's somewhere who can make one let me know


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## Cortez The Killer (12/5/11)

If you wanted better access for cleaning you could get a 4" ferrule welded on top

Then you'd need a 4" inch clamp + blank + gasket

http://www.geordi.com.au/Products19d.htm

Cheers


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## N3MIS15 (12/5/11)

MintSauce said:


> I want me one of these:



jealous?






Im planning to turn it into a carbonation keg like the 1 in your picture, but for now i mainly use it for parties and such.
Anyone with access to a tig should be able to convert 1 for you, all i did was cut a 19l corney at the top seam and a hole in the top of 50l keg..
Purge then weld and your in business. (and the dip tube worked out perfectly at the bottom)  
Alternatively, you can buy them from America. Local brew shop has a few and thats what gave me the idea.


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## mintsauce (12/5/11)

I'm reporting you to Tooheys you b*stard.

 (that's a yes I'm jelous - thanks for the tips tho)


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## N3MIS15 (12/5/11)

MintSauce said:


> I'm reporting you to Tooheys you b*stard.
> 
> (that's a yes I'm jelous - thanks for the tips tho)



was sitting in my old mans shed for about 5 years, no idea where he got it from.

but at least its been put to good use


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## Bizier (13/5/11)

So the OP uses the top of the sanke with the outside of a triclover to attach the aftermarket bit?
Sounds good, and would be pretty easy to clean.

I have been thinking about getting one of these CIP balls after being spoilt using a sprayball station at work.
http://creameryparts.com/index.php/fitting...spray-ball.html


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## beerbrewer76543 (13/5/11)

Bizier said:


> So the OP uses the top of the sanke with the outside of a triclover to attach the aftermarket bit?
> Sounds good, and would be pretty easy to clean.
> 
> I have been thinking about getting one of these CIP balls after being spoilt using a sprayball station at work.
> http://creameryparts.com/index.php/fitting...spray-ball.html




What sort of pump would you get to run it though? The old march pump wouldn't have enough pressure...


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## jimmysuperlative (7/9/11)

Great set-up hockers! :icon_drool2: 


Would you mind taking a close-up pic of the tri clover fitting and keg opening.

Just want to see if its going to work on my European type keg?


Cheers!


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## ThatKiwiFella (8/9/11)

Those are all sweet set-ups! :beer:


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## iralosavic (17/11/11)

I'm looking into switching to kegging and have contemplated using this conversion kit to ferment with. Being new to kegging, I'm a little unclear with the racking process you've mentioned.

Do you kind of treat it like a Corny keg with a gas and beer post? ie Attach your c02 line to the blow off outlet and pressurise the fermenter so that the beer is forced out the racking cane, using a John guest ball valve to make attaching and detaching beer line easy? Does the 3/8" tube suit a normal/micromatic style regulator?

The brewers hardware site advises against placing their kit under pressure - well it says it wasn't designed for it. If my interpretation of what you're doing is correct, how's it holding up?

Cheers


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## Camo6 (31/8/14)

I'm currently building a Sanke fermentor kit rip off from bits lying around and wondering if there's anyone using this system and if so are there any changes they'd make. I'm planning on using 12mm SS tube for the racking arm and blow off. The racking will be adjustable to raise it above the yeast cake. I haven't decided whether to add a separate thermowell or just use a sealed length of tube that I can swap with the racking arm. I'd also like to try fermenting under pressure and am looking around for any ball lock fittings to suit 1/2" BSP fittings. Appreciate any advice.


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## MastersBrewery (1/9/14)

Camo6 said:


> I'm currently building a Sanke fermentor kit rip off from bits lying around and wondering if there's anyone using this system and if so are there any changes they'd make. I'm planning on using 12mm SS tube for the racking arm and blow off. The racking will be adjustable to raise it above the yeast cake. I haven't decided whether to add a separate thermowell or just use a sealed length of tube that I can swap with the racking arm. I'd also like to try fermenting under pressure and am looking around for any ball lock fittings to suit 1/2" BSP fittings. Appreciate any advice.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


1/2" BSP (female) ball locks were use on Mytton Rodd kegs, thing is as these kegs are getting reasonably rare posts are exy Ebay and STPV. I don't know if the second one are still trading so give them a call, oh and let me know how you get on with this.

MB


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## Camo6 (1/9/14)

Cheers MB. Crikeys they're not cheap! I may have to devise a cheaper alternative. Thanks for the links.


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## MastersBrewery (1/9/14)

Camo6 said:


> Cheers MB. Crikeys they're not cheap! I may have to devise a cheaper alternative. Thanks for the links.


or watch out for a mytton rodd keg in the usual places going cheap


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## Camo6 (1/9/14)

I see KK have something that I could probably use:


but I may not have room on the tri-clover fitting and don't want to have to drill into the keg.

Problem is I can see ten ways of building this but don't see the sense in buying too many fittings or over complicating what should otherwise be a simple device. Hmmm.


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## MastersBrewery (1/9/14)

The yanks pressure ferment in sankes with little or no change to the keg so stem and valve remain in place, the coupler has the NVR removed. If you then get ball locks to attach to the coupler you can add and remove at will. so spunding pressure release( to maintain constant pressures, I have seen where this is attached to a corny, with the corny being used as emergency over flow/blow off, therefore protecting the spunding). At the same time on the liquid side you can attach a picnic tap, to allow gravity samples, later switch to a transfer hose. take 20mm off the stem and you should have clean transfers of already carbonated beer. I believe most ferment around 10 to 15psi. There is a thread some where on here covering this in more detail and then there's a couple of threads link the on HBT that are ..... well Huge. My issue was getting a thermowell or sensor in place without compromising the vessel. oh and I'd prefer the head space offered by the yanky kegs.

Just my $0.50

MB


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## balconybrewer (3/9/14)

Any reason you can't just reassemble the original fittings, having cut the dip tube a little, Hook up a standard coupler with some QDs attached and away you go?


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## MastersBrewery (3/9/14)

balconybrewer said:


> Any reason you can't just reassemble the original fittings, having cut the dip tube a little, Hook up a standard coupler with some QDs attached and away you go?


do you mean for each brew? Some of the HTB guys have shortened the dip tube. When using as per my last post most are transferring to serving kegs, then recircing PBW or caustic through for say an hour, then star san, good to go again.
Anything that can survive a hot caustic bath for an hour deserves to live I'd say.

MB


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## Camo6 (3/9/14)

balconybrewer said:


> Any reason you can't just reassemble the original fittings, having cut the dip tube a little, Hook up a standard coupler with some QDs attached and away you go?


It'd probably work out cheaper this way but I had most of the bits already from earlier purchases so the money was already spent and I couldn't just let the bits go to waste. Plus I love working with metal so any excuse to use a mate's lathe and clean the dust off the TIG welder. I've got to admit that by the time I'm finished I will have used more bits than necessary and probably spent more than a coupler and bits would have cost. But it will keep me busy for a while and sated from all the shiny baubles that arrive in the mail.


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## woodwormm (3/9/14)

i've got a corny top welded to the top of a 50L keg too, mostly used as a fermenter, sometimes used as a serving keg.

I've bent the dip tube up but i find this an unreliable way of getting max volume out of the fermenter.

I'll be picking up a floating pick up tube from Ross and giving it a go soon.


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## Camo6 (6/9/14)

A bit of progress made today. Pipe bent and a quick buff to match the fittings. Now waiting on some more bits from China to finish it off. Still tossing up whether to add a thermowell to the fitting. I've got the tube and could squeeze it in so I might as well, I guess.


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## Camo6 (18/9/14)

A bit more progress made. I'm a bit reluctant to drill a 12mm hole for the thermowell after the tig welding in case its too hard. Probably should have done it first. Any metal fabricators on here think otherwise?

Now I need a spunding valve. Anyone have experience with the KK ones?


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## mckenry (18/9/14)

Camo6 said:


> Now I need a spunding valve. Anyone have experience with the KK ones?


I have one. worked ok.hard to get the pressure just right though. i also found it a pain filtering gassed up beer.


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## Rurik (18/9/14)

Camo6 said:


> 2014-09-18 12.11.11.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I tried to get a manufacture to make something like this (the only thing I wanted different was a PRV added) they said they had made on before and it never sold. It was sold as a keg conversion kit; I asked them did they think about marketing it as a different product. Never heard back. If anyone wants to make the Tri-clove fitting I will buy one (or four)

Cheers
Rurik


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## Maheel (18/9/14)

would be pretty easy to make one up and use silicone hose instead of stainless.

put a stainless nipple on the pickup tube to keep it pointing down.


I have made plenty of copper discs that fit on a keg just like that triclover cap using the triclover clamp
you could then easily solder / braze in some nipples (or even a bit of the keg dip tube) for the hoses to connect to on the disc.

not as bling as SS but easy to fab up at home


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## Camo6 (18/9/14)

mckenry said:


> I have one. worked ok.hard to get the pressure just right though. i also found it a pain filtering gassed up beer.


Cheers Mckenry. I take it you don't ferment under pressure still? My main focus with this project is to be able to ferment (and transfer) double batches in stainless but I'd like give this pressure thing a go. Though I have a filter I'm yet to use it so that aspect shouldn't bother me yet. I'll give the KK valve a go.

Rurik, if I had my own drill press and lathe and more bits floating around I'd make you one. I can see how it wouldn't be very cost effective to produce these without buying parts in quantity. All the parts I used would probably equal the cost of a sanke kit without taking in to account the labour. Luckily I already had most of the bits.

A PRV is a good idea though I'm hoping the blow-off plus allowing sufficient head space will prevent uncontrolled pressure build up.

Maheel, I agree there's many ways to skin a cat. My initial plan was a silicone bung, airlock and auto siphon. But then along came ebay...


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## Tahoose (18/9/14)

I'm planning to pressure ferment in an "A" type keg and scored a second hand coupler from Keg King for $40. 

I got a couple of ball lock connections which screw onto the coupler and plan on buying the spunding valve from craftbrewer. 

I may run the gas out into a corny (blow off) when I get to bigger batches but for now I'm only brewing 24 Ltrs so not an issue yet.

I have an outline for a ferment schedule but I've rambled on enough and I'll document it all once I have given it a go.


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## Camo6 (18/9/14)

Nice! Keen to hear how you go. Will you trim the pick up tube on the keg?

I'm keen to see how my adjustable racking arm goes at harvesting yeastcake after racking the beer. I suspect using 5mm beer line might be too narrow for thick slurry but could always leave some beer behind to dilute.


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## Rurik (18/9/14)

Camo6 said:


> Rurik, if I had my own drill press and lathe and more bits floating around I'd make you one. I can see how it wouldn't be very cost effective to produce these without buying parts in quantity. All the parts I used would probably equal the cost of a sanke kit without taking in to account the labour. Luckily I already had most of the bits.



The company I was talking to already carried all of the parts as stock. The only thing they would need to have made especially would of been the Tri-Clover cap with three threads to fit the compression nut/PRV/gas inlet. They could of left of the PRV fitting if they wanted to, which would of made it even simpler. As I had said they had made made them before; they had just marketed them to the wrong part of the market. I have worked in retail all of my working life & even spent more years then I care to remember in the HB industry. There was/is a market for this product.


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## Camo6 (18/9/14)

Build it and they will come!


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## Tahoose (18/9/14)

Camo6 said:


> Nice! Keen to hear how you go. Will you trim the pick up tube on the keg?
> 
> I'm keen to see how my adjustable racking arm goes at harvesting yeastcake after racking the beer. I suspect using 5mm beer line might be too narrow for thick slurry but could always leave some beer behind to dilute.


At this point whether I cut down the tube or not is my biggest dilemma, I'm leaning towards yes at the moment as a new spear is only $20.


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## blekk (19/9/14)

Camo6 said:


> Now I need a spunding valve. Anyone have experience with the KK ones?


Im currently putting one to together that has an adjustable pressure relief, pressure gauge (reads both + and - psi) and toying with the idea of a quick disconnect for transferring from fermenter to keg under pressure. Ill post a pic a little later


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## Camo6 (19/9/14)

Any chance of posting a list or links to the bits as well?


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## blekk (19/9/14)

Gauge - 
SWAGELOK - PGI-63C-PC30-LAOX INDUSTRIAL PRESSURE GAUGE 1/4" NPT Male 30/30

Got it cheap from here

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291159120745?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


Relief Valve - 
Control Devices CR Series Brass Pressure Relief Valve, 0-100 psi Adjustable

Again this is the cheapest I found it that ships to Australia

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/371125743636?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The T I had lying around and I have a tri clamp coming. I also ordered a 4 way so I have to option to put a quick connect on it in the future.

**EDIT FOR EXTRA DETAILS** - these are NPT threads on the gauge and relief valve


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