# Wyeast 3068 - Weihenstephan, Any Good?



## SJW

Is the the one everyone raves about being a classic for the wheat beer style?
Also how does it keep under water/wort in the fridge? Does it fire ack up ok?

Steve


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## sinkas

Wheat yeast are well know to be poor for storage, the beers I have made with the yeast seem to be rather bland, but the "same " strain from Whitelabs seeemd to be great...


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## newguy

Can't help regarding storage of this yeast, but yes, it's a classic. My wife's favourite - I honestly can't brew enough Bavarian weizens for her.

I can help regarding how to ferment this yeast. This strain will produce the famous banana if oxygenation of the wort is poor. The more you oxygenate, the more cloves you get and the less banana. If you want a nice balance between the two, don't oxygenate, don't even splash the wort. Pitch a nice sized starter (~1l or 200-300ml of yeast slurry) to compensate for the low oxygen. There's also the 30 rule: pitching temp + fermentation temp = 30C. I've heard of many people pitching at 12C and fermenting at 18C, which is pretty close to what I usually do.


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## TidalPete

sinkas said:


> Wheat yeast are well know to be poor for storage, the beers I have made with the yeast seem to be rather bland, but the "same " strain from Whitelabs seeemd to be great...



SJW,

I love Wyeast 3068 - Weihenstephan especially when I ferment at 20-21 deg c for all that banana.
I find that splitting the Wyeast pack into 8 test tubes (Leaving enough for a starter) works for me. No problems re storage after 14 months so far as it is the same as keeping the lot in the smack pack for a similar time.
Don't know how the 3068 would store after farming (2nd generation) as I have never done it with this yeast.

TP :beer:


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## braufrau

TidalPete said:


> I find that splitting the Wyeast pack into 8 test tubes (Leaving enough for a starter) works for me. No problems re




So u just tip a bit in each test tube? No agar? No water?


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## TidalPete

braufrau said:


> So u just tip a bit in each test tube? No agar? No water?



Braufrau,

As I do not have a pressure cooker I just place the tubes in a homemade aluminium rack placed in a stock pot, fill the tubes with sterile (Boiled) water, loosen the caps a little then boil the living daylights out of them for 30 minutes or so. This method has Darren's tick of approval.  

To extract the yeast solution from the Wyeast pack --- shake the pack, spray metho over both hands, the top of the pack & a pair of scissors to sterilise, cut the pack open then extract the liquid yeast with a sterilised syringe (Chemist shop -- approx $1) & divide evenly into the (Cooled & emptied) test tubes. Seal & put in fridge.
The smack pack of nutrients can be used in your first starter or saved for later.
To save on costs I have boiled the used sterilised syringe with the test tubes a few times now with no ill effects so far.

TP :beer:


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## TidalPete

Have been reflecting on things (As is my want) during my regular beach walk this arvo & tend to think that there has been a bit of confusion on the Forum lately where some brewers have mistakenly connected yeast splitting\farming, etc with yeast culturing, slants, petri dishes, & so on.

These are two different animals although the sterilising procedures are the same. 
If recieving slants & wishing to make a starter a knowledge of both is required.
Just my two bob's worth.  

TP :beer:

--- Sorry to be




again.


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## white.grant

3068 was my first liquid yeast and tasting my Hefeweizen yesterday I can attest to the banana, but I also have clove so I'm happy. I heard on the Brewing network that this yeast is not a good farming candidate -- they reckon that it is a really active yeast and once it ferments its pretty much had it. Second gens have bad habits and can impart odd flavours in addition.

cheers

Grant


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## braufrau

TidalPete said:


> Have been reflecting on things (As is my want) during my regular beach walk this arvo & tend to think that there has been a bit of confusion on the Forum lately where some brewers have mistakenly connected yeast splitting\farming, etc with yeast culturing, slants, petri dishes, & so on.
> 
> These are two different animals although the sterilising procedures are the same.
> If recieving slants & wishing to make a starter a knowledge of both is required.
> Just my two bob's worth.
> 
> TP :beer:
> 
> --- Sorry to be
> 
> 
> 
> again.




But the end result is yeast in the fridge for 'ron. 

I used to just stick a bit of starter in a jar before pitching the rest. That worked. Now I'm doing slants and I'm wondering why! Takes up less room, but more potheration to get it going again.


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## TidalPete

braufrau said:


> But the end result is yeast in the fridge for 'ron.
> 
> I used to just stick a bit of starter in a jar before pitching the rest. That worked. Now I'm doing slants and I'm wondering why! Takes up less room, but more potheration to get it going again.



Not wanting to be rude braufrau but what is your definition of "slants"?
To me a slant is a test tube partially filled with agar (Hence the word "slant") & with a yeast inoculated on it. NOT a test tube with just a split or a farmed yeast in it that sits upright.
I think that to avoid confusion to new brewers we need to be clear on this.
You are right in the space-saving thing. Before I used test tubes I was rapidly running out of allowable fridge storage space & the missus was getting cranky.  

TP :beer:


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## Tony

Any good?.................. YES!


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## ///

Grantw said:


> I heard on the Brewing network ...



My fellow IBU, may I ask the logic. If the yeast is toast once it is fermented ... how has it survived these thousands of years???

Yeast live to ride ... ride to live ....

Scotty


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## goatherder

Maybe it's got a bad reputation as a repitcher because it benefits from underpitching to get the banana character. It's less likely to be underpitched when done from a slurry.


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## schooey

I've used this yeast a few times now. Firstly in a 40L batch of Weizen, I too read that underpitching it and fermenting warm can make big banana flavours. I made a 3L starter, and by the time it settled out and I drained off the wort, I probably had near 1L of slurry that I pitched. It still ended up a very bananery weizen, and it was only fermented at 18C.

Second time was in a Dunkel Weizenbock (HAG Caseswap). Pretty much the same story, pretty much the same result, but on to that yeast slurry, I put down a weizenbock and it hard some really weird medicinal flavours, big phenolics and still the banana. To be honest I haven't drank to much of it yet, waiting to see if the funk will drop out with time or whether I'll end up tipping it, but I hate tipping beer...

Lesson for me I guess is that I'd rather go 1st gen with this yeast, so next time I buy a smack pack, I'm going to make 3 slants of 1st gen yeast for future use.


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## braufrau

TidalPete said:


> Not wanting to be rude braufrau but what is your definition of "slants"?


well I wouldn't have thought u were being rude if you hadn't said that! 



> To me a slant is a test tube partially filled with agar (Hence the word "slant") & with a yeast inoculated on it. NOT a test tube with just a split or a farmed yeast in it that sits upright.


That's right. And I guess I could just have test tubes with a bit of starter in them instead of the slants. I'm trying to figure out the point of slants. I guess one reason is that with test tubes of starter you need to make new generations of yeast, but, for its considered "gen 1" to propagate from slant to slant, I guess because the conditions are so benign. 

I am reading Darwin's Ghost at the moment. I wonder what the author would think of that assertion.


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## hoohaaman

I have used 3068 many times,the freshest innoculations from the smack pack always work best for me.I have never recultured this one from slants,but find any storage definenately affects subsequent brews.

I use the 30 rule and stress the yeast with temperature rather then volume.First brew from smack pack is always great.Each brew later looses more.

It is my next slant project,to test if this holds true with the first culture treated better.


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## Weizguy

A little off-topic perhaps...
But FWIW, W3638 is a derivative of the original W3068 yeast, and it has been adapted to local conditions to become the house yeast for the Schneider brewery.

If you like this yeast, I find that it seems to breed(?) true, and produce similar flavours from successive generations.

I recently pitched a strong weizenbock (o.g. 1.089) onto the yeast cake from a Weizen (o.g. 1.048), and from there I split the yeast into 2, washed half and discarded the other half. The washed half went into another weizen (o.g. 1.056) and it fermented quite well at 13C and still produced the right flavours and left me with 1 litre of slurry.

W3068 is still a great yeast, but loses it's edge upon multiple re-pitching/ re-use, due to inadequate care, As Jamil said in the radio interview, If you want to re-use the yeast, do not leave it for more than a few days between re-use.


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## SJW

So, correct me if I am wrong, but I like the idea of taking a few ml's from the wyeast smack pak and sticking it in a few test tubes, but why would'nt you want to burst the nutrient pack first before taking the samples out so the yeast numbers build up? Or would that be classed as the first generation?
Also why would you put the yeast from the smack pack in a test tube with starter liquid? why would'nt you either use sterile water or just nothing at all?

Steve


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## Fourstar

SJW said:


> So, correct me if I am wrong, but I like the idea of taking a few ml's from the wyeast smack pak and sticking it in a few test tubes, but why would'nt you want to burst the nutrient pack first before taking the samples out so the yeast numbers build up? Or would that be classed as the first generation?
> Also why would you put the yeast from the smack pack in a test tube with starter liquid? why would'nt you either use sterile water or just nothing at all?
> 
> Steve



I Agree!

Wouldnt the simple solution be to break the nutrient pack, wait for it to swell, decant some for vials/slants and use the bulk to make a starter or just simply pitch? Aslong as everything is sterile, you should be able to store this for an extended period with no issues.
I cant wait to start my slanting collection. Help me step away from dry! I ordered by vials/testtubles and inoculating wire from proscitech lastweek. I hope they arrive soon.


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## ///

SJW said:


> So, correct me if I am wrong, but I like the idea of taking a few ml's from the wyeast smack pak and sticking it in a few test tubes, but why would'nt you want to burst the nutrient pack first before taking the samples out so the yeast numbers build up? Or would that be classed as the first generation?
> Also why would you put the yeast from the smack pack in a test tube with starter liquid? why would'nt you either use sterile water or just nothing at all?
> 
> Steve



The nutrient pack 'wakes' up the yeast, ie. an activator. The packs ship with sufficient yeast for activating and pithcing into 20l of wort. 

As for Goatherders underpitching, standard is 1ml per liter of slurry, so to underpitch could you not just use say 0.5mm per litre?

Scotty


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## Swinging Beef

Well, I hope this yeast works well, Im about to pitch some tonight and was hoping after it lived in a 5.5%abv heffe for a while, I might have the volume to pitch a 7.5% dunkel on the top of the yeast cake.
Any thoughts?
Will using a whole yeastcake diminish the banana and clove aromas in the 2nd batch?


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## braufrau

A whole yeast cake is overpitching.

According to the wyeast website linky

High pitch rates can lead to:

* Very low ester production
* Very fast fermentations
* Thin or lacking body/mouthfeel
* Autolysis (Yeasty flavors due to lysing of cells)

According to mrmalty linky
you need about 1/2 cup of slurry!


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## Dr Gonzo

In Eric Warners book on brewing wheat beer he states that the comercial wheat beer breweries in Germany scrape the yeasty foam off the top at high krausen and use this to innoculate the next beer. According to him the commercial guys can do this consecutively from batch to batch up to 100 times before going back to the original culture. 

The yeast at this stage is fresh and healthy, with less likelyhood of mutation, and therefore maitaining the original characteristics.
The catch is that you would need to brew another batch every second day to keep the train rolling.

Ive tried this method a few times, going as far as 3 consecutive pitchings. The second and third brews always seem to have better results than the first one.


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## therook

I need to make a quick beer as stocks are low so i'm going to do a double brew weekend and one of those beers will be a wheat. Reading different threads has told me that repitching 3068 from the yeast cake isn't as good as a fresh packet of Wyeast but i have a slant in the fridge, this should be okay ???? shouldn't it ????. also how big a starter would you make for a 20 litre batch 10ml, 100ml and then up to 1 litre would that be correct?

Rook


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## Lachlan

Hey Rook

I have used this yeast a couple of times. I used a smackpack for the first batch and made a 1L starter for 23L, it took off over night. Make sure you have heaps of head space in your fermenter as 3068 goes nuts. Both my batches have blowen the lid on my fermenter. My second batch was 150mL of the yeast cake in a 23L batch and once again it took off over night.

I found 1st Gen had a big bananna hit while it was fresh, after about 4 weeks it subsided gradually. 2nd Gen the bananna had disipated and i got more bubblegum flavours, both were fermented at 20C.

Lachlan


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## braufrau

I've just sat down after bottling my Hefe this very minute.

From the hydrometer I'm pretty optimistic. Esters are nice and subdued (although my nose is a bit off at the moment).

The yeast was from a slant (thanks MickOz!). I filled the slant tube for the first starter, then into ~100ml and then into ~1l.
So about 1.12 litres in all. :lol: Then settled it in the fridge and pitched just the dregs. OMG ... thank goodness you reminded me .. the stir bar is in there!


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## SJW

> I need to make a quick beer as stocks are low so i'm going to do a double brew weekend and one of those beers will be a wheat. Reading different threads has told me that repitching 3068 from the yeast cake isn't as good as a fresh packet of Wyeast but i have a slant in the fridge, this should be okay ???? shouldn't it ????. also how big a starter would you make for a 20 litre batch 10ml, 100ml and then up to 1 litre would that be correct?



I split the yeast cake from my first brew with this and I fired up a stubbie of slurry after being in the fridge for four months and it was great. I used it to ferment my Double Weizenbock. I fermented this one cool 18 deg C and it was great.

#83 Weizen Doppelbock 
Weizenbock 


Type: All Grain
Date: 19/01/2009 
Batch Size: 27.00 L
Brewer: Stephen Wright 
Boil Size: 33.09 L Asst Brewer: 
Boil Time: 75 min Equipment: My Gear 
Taste Rating(out of 50): 0.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 62.00 
Taste Notes: 

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU 
6500.00 gm Wheat Malt, Dark (Weyermann) (13.8 EBC) Grain 54.17 % 
1500.00 gm Carawheat (Weyermann) (98.5 EBC) Grain 12.50 % 
1500.00 gm Munich II (Weyermann) (16.7 EBC) Grain 12.50 % 
1500.00 gm Premium Pilsner (Weyermann) (2.2 EBC) Grain 12.50 % 
500.00 gm Chocolate Wheat (Weyermann) (1100.0 EBC) Grain 4.17 % 
50.00 gm Northern Brewer [6.50 %] (60 min) Hops 22.4 IBU 
25.00 gm Tettnang [4.90 %] (15 min) Hops 4.2 IBU 
0.50 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc 
11.00 gm PH 5.2 Stabilizer (Mash 60.0 min) Misc 
500.00 gm Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (2.0 EBC) Sugar 4.17 % 
400 Pkgs Weihenstephan Weizen (Wyeast Labs #3068) Yeast-Wheat 



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.090 SG
Measured Original Gravity: 1.090 SG 
Est Final Gravity: 1.021 SG Measured Final Gravity: 1.021 SG 
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 9.03 % Actual Alcohol by Vol: 9.05 % 
Bitterness: 26.6 IBU Calories: 883 cal/l 
Est Color: 82.0 EBC Color: Color 


Mash Profile

Mash Name: Decoction Mash, Double Total Grain Weight: 11500.00 gm 
Sparge Water: 14.60 L Grain Temperature: 20.0 C 
Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C TunTemperature: 20.0 C 
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.4 PH


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## stueywhytcross

Tony said:


> Any good?.................. YES!




+1, i prefer this over the 3638. a must for any german weizen.


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## therook

braufrau said:


> I've just sat down after bottling my Hefe this very minute.
> 
> From the hydrometer I'm pretty optimistic. Esters are nice and subdued (although my nose is a bit off at the moment).
> 
> The yeast was from a slant (thanks MickOz!). I filled the slant tube for the first starter, then into ~100ml and then into ~1l.
> So about 1.12 litres in all. :lol: Then settled it in the fridge and pitched just the dregs. OMG ... thank goodness you reminded me .. the stir bar is in there!




Thanks braufrau, just the answer i was after

Rook


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## puffer_pics

I am making a Weizen/Weissbier beer on the weekend using 3068, Show i make a started or just use the smack pack? From what i have read underpitching is a good thing with this yeast ??? Or should a make a starter, if so what size ?


Thanks Col



Schneider Weisse Style

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 27.00 Wort Size (L): 27.00
Total Grain (kg): 6.30
Anticipated OG: 1.055 Plato: 13.64
Anticipated EBC: 17.7
Anticipated IBU: 12.3
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Formulas Used
-------------


Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager



Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
61.9 3.90 kg. Weyermann Pale Wheat Germany 1.038 4
17.5 1.10 kg. Weyermann Vienna Germany 1.038 8
15.9 1.00 kg. IMC Pilsner Australia 1.038 3
4.8 0.30 kg. Weyermann Caramunich II Germany 1.035 167

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
30.00 g. Hallertauer Mittelfruh Pellet 5.60 10.2 30 min.
12.00 g. Hallertauer Mittelfruh Pellet 5.60 2.1 15 min.


Yeast
-----

WYeast 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen


Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Multi Step

Grain kg: 6.30
Water Qts: 28.63 - Before Additional Infusions
Water L: 27.09 - Before Additional Infusions

L Water Per kg Grain: 4.30 - Before Additional Infusions


Protein Rest Temp : 50 Time: 20
Saccharification Rest Temp : 66 Time: 60
Mash-out Rest Temp : 76 Time: 10
Sparge Temp : 72 Time: 60


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## Sammus

Interesting this topic resurfaced. I had a smack pack of 3068 dated jul07, smacked it and it didnt swell after a week, i poured it in 500ml of 1.020 on a stir plate, and a drop or two into a vial of sterile distilled water. no activity on the stirplate after another week, thought i mightve missed it so I added 1L of wort. Still no sign and the wort is sweet.

Plated what was in the vial and its been 3 days and no sign of life... I really need this yeast but I'm too stingy to fork out for a new pack haha. my grain has been sitting here cracked for over 2 weeks, probably going stale . I'm determined to find a single living yeast cell in there and culture it into the large powerful beast I hear 3068 should be in the fermenter!.


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## kabooby

I would buy another smackpack. It will cost you alot more when the yeast doesn't start and you waste a brew.

Kabooby


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## Fourstar

therook said:


> Thanks braufrau, just the answer i was after
> 
> Rook



Hey rook, 

Just like any starter. Personally i fill the vial with wort. give it a good shke and leave for 12 hours (approx 25 ml). give it antohe rshake to rouse and pitch into a 100ml starter. ferment for 12 or so hours and top up with 500ml. Then i ferment out, chill and decant excess and top up with another 500ml. Then i ferment to high krausen and pitch it all. When following the stated steps, ive calculated to the 1st 500ml will get you to approx a smack pack stage, after that wil be approx 1.5 smack packs.


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## clean brewer

Well I made a 1ltr starter with the smack pack and divided it between 5 stubbies and used the rest for another 1 ltr starter and then used that for a 2ltr starter. Went off well in my 3ltr Juice Bottle, pitched onto brew and its coming along nicely, its not jumping out of the fermenter though but do have it at 18degrees....

Alot of co2 in there though as the cling film on the fermenter is one big dome...


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## Sammus

kabooby said:


> I would buy another smackpack. It will cost you alot more when the yeast doesn't start and you waste a brew.
> 
> Kabooby



Yeah I just picked up another smackpack. The first one wasn't bought, it was given to me in return for a favour I did for scotty and dave ages ago, so I don't really feel like i wasted a pack of liquid I dropped my hard earned cash on.

Walked into MHB today and he just handed me one dated dec08 (just a little better than jul07 lol) for nix, told me to cash him up if it works as expected. I can't imagine it wont work being so recent, but hey, why not take up the challenge haha. I'll skim this during ferement and store it vials under sterile distilled water. Hopefully itll store better than the ill-treated half swollen smack pack.


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## Jazzafish

braufrau said:


> A whole yeast cake is overpitching.
> 
> According to the wyeast website linky
> 
> High pitch rates can lead to:
> 
> * Very low ester production
> * Very fast fermentations
> * Thin or lacking body/mouthfeel
> * Autolysis (Yeasty flavors due to lysing of cells)
> 
> According to mrmalty linky
> you need about 1/2 cup of slurry!



Hmmm,

That explains the commercial lagers! All points true appart from the autoalysis


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## Sammus

Sammus said:


> Yeah I just picked up another smackpack. The first one wasn't bought, it was given to me in return for a favour I did for scotty and dave ages ago, so I don't really feel like i wasted a pack of liquid I dropped my hard earned cash on.
> 
> Walked into MHB today and he just handed me one dated dec08 (just a little better than jul07 lol) for nix, told me to cash him up if it works as expected. I can't imagine it wont work being so recent, but hey, why not take up the challenge haha. I'll skim this during ferement and store it vials under sterile distilled water. Hopefully itll store better than the ill-treated half swollen smack pack.



Sweet as, smacked it cold and it looked like it was about to burst within 4 hours. Gotta love that.


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## Damian44

Im planning on doing a Weizen, 50% Pils and 50% Wheat using 3068. I just have a couple of questions. How would it turn out if my OG was only 1.038? And could I substitute Hallertau for Sazz?
TYVM


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## clean brewer

Just tried my Wit Beer last night with the 3068, this beer is great, nice Banana flavour, very smooth.. Brewed at 18c, was crash chilled for about 5 days though before I got to keg it, needs a bit more carbonation to style but I really like this beer..  

So, success on my first use of liquid yeast and starters.. Thanks guys for the advice.. :beerbang: 

:icon_cheers: CB


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## cdbrown

clean brewer said:


> Well I made a 1ltr starter with the smack pack and divided it between 5 stubbies and used the rest for another 1 ltr starter and then used that for a 2ltr starter. Went off well in my 3ltr Juice Bottle, pitched onto brew and its coming along nicely, its not jumping out of the fermenter though but do have it at 18degrees....
> 
> Alot of co2 in there though as the cling film on the fermenter is one big dome...



Prior to brewing an Erdinger clone I did similar to you, smack pack into a 1L wort starter, after a couple of days I shook it slightly and split into 2 PETs. Poured 500ml on each and let go. One PET went into stubbies for later use, the other into the fermenter. Made an absolutely cracking brew which will made again.


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## Chad

Holy crap! I just tasted and smelt my first Weizenbock today from the fermenter before kegging it, which I used this yeast for the first time too, and it was bloody amazing :icon_drool2:.
I made a 1.5L starter from the smack pack and fermented at 17c all the way, and I don't think I could have asked for a better balance of esters and phenolics. Can't wait to try it from the glass in a few weeks.

I'm re-brewing it again in two weeks time, but next weekend I am doing a Hefe which will be cultured up from a slant, so we'll see how that one goes.


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## bundy

I know this is an old thread but as good a place as any. I Have read many post on reusing yeasts and other advice on washing to reuse your yeast.

My initial plan was to wash a wyeast 3068 after it has finished fermenting. However a quick google on washing wyeast 3068 shows quite a few posts that this may not be a great idea for this strain. (Including some in this thread)

Wondering if anyone can advice what is the best way I can either split or reuse this yeast? Should I consider splitting the smack pack into 2 - 3 small vials and using those for starters? If so do you smack it first or just harvest the yeast to vials? Or should I try top harvest? Or will in fact washing be fine?

I have the yeast ready in my fridge to put down after my current brew finishes in 6 or 7 days so any advice appreciated so whichever way I go I have a few tucked away to use again.


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## Midnight Brew

Its a big time party animal top cropper so thats going to be the easiest way I think. Splitting the smack pack is going to be a kinda back up insurance incase you get an infection or starter infection. Washing is also an option but I think top cropping is an easier way and you're getting the most active and purest yeast from the brew.


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## carniebrew

Yep I do both, smack, let swell, then split into into two test tubes. Use the first, top crop it a couple of times and that goes into another test tube. All labelled with dates, if its a split or crop, etc...


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## bundy

carniebrew said:


> Yep I do both, smack, let swell, then split into into two test tubes. Use the first, top crop it a couple of times and that goes into another test tube. All labelled with dates, if its a split or crop, etc...


Cheers guys - Carniebrew re the top crops, do you limit yourself to 1 or 2 generations with this method? 

Or do you find by continually top cropping you don't have the issues with yeast degrading and losing a lot of that great banana / clove finish and can just keep on cropping and using?

Lastly any time constraints on how long you have been able to store either top cropped or split yeast? 6 - 12 months ok with this strain?

I love wheats in summer so if I can keep from year to year will be perfect for me.


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## carniebrew

I haven't been doing it long enough to answer most of that yet! Less than a year for me, and I haven't used a 2nd gen top crop as yet.


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## bundy

No worries, really appreciate your advice. When you do get to that stage maybe try remember this thread and post us an update. 

Now off to the neighbour who is a chemist in a hospital to hit him up for some spare 40 or 50ml vials


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## carniebrew

I got a truckload of 50ml ones from mad about science online. In fact anyone in Melbourne who wants any, I bought a bulk box of like 100 or something, and I only need about 20.

The only hassle about them is the pointed bottom, but I've made a holder for them in a block of wood with a step drill bit and some nails for supports.

Happy to mail 'em too if anyone wants to pay postage but they won't be as good value of course.


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## peas_and_corn

I *love* this yeast. It's just so damn good, with a great flavor profile. I use it for my dunkelweissen recipe all the time


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## Midnight Brew

bundy said:


> Cheers guys - Carniebrew re the top crops, do you limit yourself to 1 or 2 generations with this method?


Used up to 5 or 6 generations before switching to another yeast and no problems. Usually have a list of beers to make and get two cubes out of each batch and the yeast has no problems firing up after some down time. If its over a week or two I make a starter. Big commercial breweries have been using the top crop method for years and continue to do so.


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