# Malts - What Is Actually Done To Them?



## mobrien (16/6/07)

Hi everyone,

I'm wanting to know a bit more about the way malts (grains) are prepared, purely for my own education. Specifically, I want to know about crystal malts compared to pale malts, and what is actually done to them and why we should limit batches to 10% or so. I assume its to do with the roasting increasing tanins (which I think decrease pH in addition to bad flavours) and the heat destroying the enzymes outside the grain - but then that is an assumption on my part - now I want to know!

Can anyone point me in the direction of some good reading (web or book). I'm looking at getting a couple of brewing books for my San Francisco trip (designing great beers, brewing science) so these may have it in there, but I am interested right now!

Thanks for any pointers.

Matt


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## oldbugman (16/6/07)

http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12.html

give this a bit of a read.


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## Adamt (16/6/07)

As far as "limiting" grain quantities goes... lots of specialty grains yield less fermentable sugars or have quite overpowering flavours (roast barley for one), too much of these can make too much body, sweetness or overpowering flavours. Some specialty malts also contain less "diastatic power" than others, too many of these can reduce conversion in the mash, etc.


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## Ducatiboy stu (16/6/07)

M advice is to make a brew using 15% light Crystal

You will very quickly understand the meaning of Sweet.......And I do mean *sweet*...


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## blackbock (16/6/07)

Yep. Crystal malts contain pretty much zero diastatic power, as they are basically steamed inside their husks and then redried. Anyone who has tasted a brew with too much crystal will know why you shouldn't overuse them - for me personally such beers give me a pain in the gut shortly afterwards!


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## Slurpdog (16/6/07)

So from a newb, when it comes to grains, is there a definitive list of specialty grains (Only steeping required) vs grains that need to be mashed.
I want to start to get into mini mashes and maybe some partials but don't want to go off buyng grains and using the wrong process (steeping or mashing) for extraction.


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## blackbock (16/6/07)

As stated on here before, anything that starts with Cara- can be simply steeped. Anything with the name 'Crystal' can be steeped. Some people claim that Melanoidin or Munich can be steeped but for best results they should be mashed.

cheers, BB


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## Adamt (16/6/07)

Slurpdog said:


> So from a newb, when it comes to grains, is there a definitive list of specialty grains (Only steeping required) vs grains that need to be mashed.
> I want to start to get into mini mashes and maybe some partials but don't want to go off buyng grains and using the wrong process (steeping or mashing) for extraction.


 

Oldbugman's link provides a list of mashed/steeped grains. (on the page after the linked page).

FYI Mashing is just an extended steep in ~65C water.


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## Slurpdog (16/6/07)

Adamt said:


> Oldbugman's link provides a list of mashed/steeped grains. (on the page after the linked page).
> 
> FYI Mashing is just an extended steep in ~65C water.


Thanks Adamt. Just checking.
Did my first mini mash last weekend with 1 kg of amber grain(?).
Got myself a good digital thermometer and held the whole show in an 8 liter esky @ 65 deg for an hour.
It's simple enough to do, and the result is fermenting away now.


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## Ross (16/6/07)

I always encourage people to steep their specialty grains at 67c - This way you get to see how easily you can maintain the temperature with out the worry if it goes pear shaped - Makes the step to do doing partials & mashing some grains later, much easier...

cheers Ross...


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## bconnery (16/6/07)

Ross said:


> I always encourage people to steep their specialty grains at 67c - This way you get to see how easily you can maintain the temperature with out the worry if it goes pear shaped - Makes the step to do doing partials & mashing some grains later, much easier...
> 
> cheers Ross...



This was the technique I have always employed. Essentially if you do this then it is easy to step up to small amounts because a mash is really a temperature controlled steep. I did mini mashes for some time before going AG and the experience definitely helped on a number of levels. It enables you to become familiar with a wide range of grains and their effect on a brew. It also means you have experience in the techniques and ideas so stepping up to doing it on a larger scale isn't that daunting. 

As for grains, while not complete by any means, trying to expand it but that damn brewing gets in the way , I have a guide here with info like colour and whether mashing is required. 

Ive posted it before but can't be bothered finding the post again. 

It is very very basic so far, mostly just pasted from a couple of sites, but it's a starting point...

View attachment grainsguide.xls


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## mobrien (16/6/07)

Thanks for the replies - I'd forgotten to look at Palmer, and on reading it realised I had read it before and its exactly what I thought - I'm guessing because thats what I read when I first started AG.

I'm sure that makes sense!

Anyway, thanks - it answers my basic question and I can't wait to get a couple of brewing books to get more info!

M


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