# Wolfy's 3v Stainless Home-brewery Build Details



## Wolfy (29/5/12)

It's taken more than 6 months, but my new brewery is at the stage where things are happening and I have enough photos and details to make it worth sharing.

*Introduction:*
In this thread I hope to present - with the help of lots of pictures - the process I've followed to build my new home-brewery. The main purpose is to show how I've done stuff and essentially prove that *if I can do it, anyone can*. While there is not much new, different, special or unique, I'm presenting the info in the hope of inspiring others with some of the ideas or to DIY their own brewery setup.

Posts here will be a condensed, appropriate for AHB version of the various rants on my blog: http://blog.bracio.com/
If you need more information or details, it's probably included on the corresponding blog-post.

*Disclaimer:*

Most ideas, designs, concepts and information were borrowed, copied or learned from others on these forums or other online resources. i do not claim such as mine or suggest they are, but present them here as what I've done for my own needs and purposes.
I have _no _skill with power tools, handy-man stuff, measuring shit or building things, so no matter what level inept skill level with such things, anyone can do this.
My delicate office-worker hands get blisters just at the _thought _of manual labour, so again, if I can do it anyone can.
There are probably other/better ways to achieve the same results, especially when working with tools and stuff. It may be that I overlooked or did not know better, so any/all advice is welcome for future improvement, especially in regard to tools, techniques or build methods.
Use some common-sense and practicality if you decide to follow _any _suggestions or advice. While I honestly feel that if I can build stuff like this, anyone can, never try to do more than you can manage, always use appropriate tools, appropriate protective equipment and don't do anything that could injure yourself or others without first carefully considering the consequences.
At the time of posting, I have not injured myself or others in any major way, however, if you do follow any suggestions or advice, please realize that you do-so at your own risk and nobody but yourself is to blame for any adverse consequences, damage, injury or worse.


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

*#1 Planning and Overview*
Blog post

My old home-brewery setup has done me well over the last few years. However, I've been thinking about upgrading my home-brew equipment for some time.

Objectives:

Appropriate equipment to brew the best and most consistent beer possible (for me at home).
Keep build costs to an absolute minimum.
Maintenance and cleaning easy and hassle free.
Able to brew double batches if required.
Minimise or eliminate the need to manually lift hot wort/water.
Major build decisions:

3-vessel system
All stainless construction (based on 2nd-hand 50L beer kegs)
All electric
Silicon hose and stainless cam-lock connections
Pump for liquid transfer
DIY for everything possible
Careful consideration of each component, source and cost (tight-arse shopping)
Initially I was planning to build a single-level system with a single pump, something very simple and easy like Cortez's Brew Stand. However, since I prefer to fly-sparge, the design quickly evolved into a 2-tier setup and over the last six-or-so months, the sketches on backs-of-envelopes and other bits-of-paper have evolved a little:






Plan includes 3x 2nd-hand beer-kegs, plate-chiller (was very cheap at Keg King), a hop-back (design/build pending), a little-brown-pump, and a HERMS.

With my old setup, I often had trouble both hitting and maintaining the correct mash-temperature, which meaning quick additions of boiling or cold water, having to do random on-the-fly decoctions or other stuff. So while the HERMS adds a deal of complexity and additional expense, it should allow mash temperatures to be controlled and stepped in a much more precise and accurate way and make the brew-day easier and more relaxing.

No doubt things will change and evolve as the brewery is built, but since the kegs in the fridge are starting to get empty, its about time it was built and used, especially since I've sold the old system to help pay for the new one!


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

*#2 Keg Cutting*
Blog post

To convert the used beer kegs, they need the tops cut out of them. Google and YouTube show all kinds of complicated ways to do this, including using a jig or a plasma cutter. Since I had not done anything like this before, I did try to follow some of the advice, but found most of it pretty useless and the actual procedure (outlined below) much simpler and easier than I imagined.

_Note:_ In the pictures below, the top collar of the keg has been removed, this makes them lighter and easier to work with but the handles still retrain their full strength. Removing the collar before cutting the top off the keg gives more working space, which is useful in keeping the grinder upright, but the collar does make a useful guide if you don't have a specific lid to fit. I was planning to use this keg as both the HLT and still-pot, but SWMBO had other ideas, so I decided to cut the top out of this keg too - and took the pictures as I did.

The only major tool needed to cut the keg-tops is an angle grinder, a thin steel cutting disk and a thicker steel grinding disk, however the $1-2 disks (shown below) worked well (_Note_: The last time I visited the big-green-shed they had Makita brand Stainless cutting disks that were thinner and better again).





The first thing to do is depressurize the keg, I did that by putting a rag over the valve and pushing down with a heavy screw driver (the keg shown below has the spear removed so no chance of pressure-buildup). Then mark out the top of the keg, I found a 30cm glass-fry-pan lid at an Op-shop for $4 which will make an ideal lid, so I just traced around the outside:





Attach the thin metal cutting disk to the angle grinder and run it -lightly- around just inside the marked line:





Now that we have a groove to follow, continue to run the angle grinder around that groove. If you have not yet removed the top collar of the keg - and especially if you don't plan to use a lid of a specific size - there is no need to mark the cutting circle, simply place the shield of the angle grinder against the collar and use that as a guide as you cut around the top of the keg.

Continue to work the angle grinder around the groove, keeping the cutting depth even all the way round, this should help preserve the cutting disk and if you do not concentrate on one section for too long it allows the stainless steel to cool before you come back to cut on that location again:





After running the angle grinder around the top of the keg a few times, it will eventually cut through the top:





At this stage, it's best to keep the keg-spear in-place (_but ensure the keg is totally depressurized_) that way the section of keg-top has something to balance on as it's cut out:





Change to the steel grinding disk and clean up the hole and edges, if fitting a lid ensure that it correctly fits the hole. Run the grinding disk over, around and under the hole to smooth it of and remove any jagged bits of metal. I found that by resting the guard of the angle grinder on the edge, guiding it backward grinding and smoothing the edge gradually around the circle allowed a good level of control and ensured that the (generally) circular hole remained (pretty much) circular:





Once the edges have been cleaned up with the grinding disk, its useful to smooth off the edges even more using a file, dremel tool or wet-dry sandpaper. Continue working around the edge until it is smooth and clean and you can run your hand around without cutting yoruself or getting metal-splinters. After a bit of work (maybe 1/2 hour all up) the top of the keg has been cut out, smoothed off and lid fitted:





*Note:*
Stealing beer kegs is bad (and illegal), however they can be purchased legitimately at various places. Keg King (Vic) currently have 50L kegs in stock (around $50ea), The Local Taphouse (Vic, NSW) often have 2nd hand (International brewery) kegs for sale (around $40 I think), so check with vendors where you live and you might be able to get 50L kegs at good prices. There are often brewery-kegs sold on Ebay, however they are not always legitimate sales, so even if you pay for one there it might not actually be something you were allowed to purchase.


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

*#3: Perforated Stainless filters/false bottoms*

A commercial-keg-mash-tun false bottom does a good job solid job, but they cost about $60-70. Since I decided to drill holes in the bottom of the kegs for the outlet valve (_more on this when I take some hole-drilling photos_) I essentially needed two false-bottoms and a filter for my hopback design. Unfortunately I don't have access to cheap/scrap perforated stainless, and buying even small amounts of it is difficult to find or expensive. Linked from one of the threads here was the RS Online Website, which has 2mm hole-size 47% open area 0.55mm thick stainless sheets. The hole-size is the same as commercial-type false bottoms, but the open area was a little greater and the steel was also thinner.

The good thing about the 500x500 sheet was that I should be able to make the mash-tun false bottom, kettle filter and the two hopback filters from the single sheet:





With a little care the perforated stainless was relatively easy to cut with a cutting disk on the angle grinder:





After cleaning up the edges with a grinding disk and a hand-file, the false bottom fitted in the keg mash-tun well. However, since it's thinner than the commercial false bottom, it can't easily be bent into a dome, and it may struggle to hold the weight of the mash. I plan to use a 1/2 inch threaded pipe-connector that will attach to the outlet-nipple and support the center of the DIY false bottom.





The bottom-draining-kettle-filter was a little smaller and slightly less round, but it still should do it's job more than adequately:





Filter-plates for the hopback were more time consuming to make due to the smaller size, my inability to measure the required width exactly and the fact that they must fit inside the container exactly:





But with some time and patience, I was able to make two round filter plates that fit exactly inside the stainless container:





I'll post more details on the hopback design/build when it's finished. 

*Edit*: I still have 1 unused sheet of the perforated stainless, if anyone in Melb wants to buy it (at the price it cost me), send me a PM.


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

*#4: Electricals / Control Box*
Blog post here and here.

The addition of 3x electrical heating elements, HERMS, PID, SSR and HLT temperature controller, combined with the fact that the house's electrical wiring does not include RCD's (Safety Switches), means that the electrical stuff was much more complicated than I really wanted.

The various electrical bits ended up as follows:
1x 2200W Electrical heating element for the HLT.
1x 'Fridgemate' temperature controller to control temperature in the HLT.
2x 2200W Electrical heating element for the Kettle (with the option of controlling one via the manual setting on the PID).
1x 2000W 'cheap-kettle' element for the HERMS.
1x PID to control HERMS/mash tempeature
1x SSR between the HERMS element and controller
Other bits for the electrical control box include:
2x 20A RCD/MCB
2x DPST switches
2x DPDT switches
8x 240V LED control lights
Wires, cables, cable joiners, cable glands not shown in the photo and a box to put it all in:





Except the elements, which were purchased directly from Keg King, electrical items were sourced from Ebay, purchasing 3x RCD, a 60A switch and plastic control box was cheaper than buying just 2x RCD's. So everything will be housed in the control box, but if things get too hot I'll buy a bigger metal one.

After a few rough sketches the circuit diagram ended up something like this:





There are a number of reasons - legal and safety - why 240V DIY is not recommended, or even legal in Australia, so get someone with the appropriate certificate to help you out or do the work for you.

When completed the control box looks like this:




The control box uses cables instead of GPO's (Power points, that would have made it look neater) because I had an abundance of left-over computer type cables, which the electric kettle (HERMS), heating elements and pump 12V adapter all use - so it was cheaper and easier to use those, especially in the small sized control box.





As for how things work: Power-in via the two middle gray power-cords directly through the RCD/MCB's. The white and middle black cords are switched (two central switches) for the pump(s) or anything else needed. On the left is the HLT power, controlled by a TempMate digital controller - I had an unused one and they allow for 20A relay, which makes it more suitable than cheaper STC1000 type controllers. On the right is power for the HERMS element, controlled by the PID via the SSR. The last two black power cords (lower outer edges) are direct power for the two kettle elements, switched (via DPDT switches) so that only one of those or the HLT/HERMS can be on at any one time.


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

*#5: Plumbing - fittings*
Blog post

Since I can't weld, the decision to use weldless fittings was made for me, as was to use all stainless and since 1/2 inch size is standard for home-brewers that was a default choice also. However, I did decide to use NTP fittings (U.S. standard thread) based on cost. NTP fittings -purchased from the USA or China (via Ebay) are significantly cheaper than similar local items that have a slightly different thread, luckily at 1/2 inch size, it should not matter if I need to mix in a few locally purchased fittings.

When I purchased them last year (_Chi Company, USA_) the 'SnapLock' brand camlock fittings were about half the cost of similar local products.





The two 1/2inch thermowells (_Ebay: mainlandvf_) have both a 1/2 inch thread that screws into the keg and also a 1/2 inch thread to fit a probe - most other thermowells are designed differently.





After checking the prices from four local vendors, and two USA based websites, Chinese Ebay fittings (which are probably exactly the same as all the others anyway) averaged out at about 20-40% cheaper (_Ebay: av-rf, dailyappliance2010_), with the ball valves - 3piece valves for kettle and mash tun, 2piece for HLT and pump - about 1/3 to 1/2 the price than I could find elsewhere.


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

*To come:*
Drilling holes/attaching fittings (_when I do some and take photos_).
HERMS (_when it's finished_).
Hopback (_when it's finished_).
Other stuff: Sight gauge, insulation, etc (_when I do it_)
Complete setup (_if/when it ever gets finished_)
Brew stand (_no hurry for this one, need to brew first_) for now I'll use the topless-table that one of my neighbours was throwing out:





Obviously one of the major problems with drilling the bottom of the kegs is that you can't put them on a normal table once the fittings are attached.


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## troopa (29/5/12)

Gonna have to read through this when i get home... but Wolfy dont you sleep mate 

Gratz on getting there and i look forward to tasting one of your superb beers off the new system
Btw if your after any other tools let us know mate i probably got them on hand


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## PhantomEasey (29/5/12)

This is shaping up to look like my intended 3V build, can't wait to see how you finish this bad boy off Wolfy!


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## DarkFaerytale (29/5/12)

shit hot Wolfy, lovely, well thought out setup. hope it brings you many years of happiness

-Phill


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## Spoonta (29/5/12)

locking good mate


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## stux (29/5/12)

If I were to build a 3V it'd look like that 

Can't wait for more updates, good luck


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## JaseH (29/5/12)

Looking good! Cant wait for more progress updates! :icon_cheers:


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

*#6: False bottom/filter stand-offs*

As mentioned in Update #3, the 0.55mm thick perforated stainless used to make the mash false-bottom and kettle filter, is not as heavy duty as the commercial false-bottoms and might not easily hold the weight of the mash (or even sit in place with vigorous stirring). The two threaded pipe fittings arrived today, and after a little bit of work with a grinding disk on the angle grinder, they fit under the false bottom, provide support and should allow the wort to easily drain.




Obviously they'll be installed on the inside of the keg (but would be impossible to photograph there), and the false bottom will sit between the two washers. 

Unfortunately my Australian-purchased (via Ebay) 1/2 inch washers don't actually fit 1/2 inch fittings (even though I asked the vendor before buying them), so I'll have to send them back and source some of the right size from overseas. So far, I have gotten and more accurate communication and faster delivery by getting stuff from China than from Australian shops selling stuff on Ebay (and they're about 50% cheaper than retail shops here).


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## Malted (29/5/12)

Wolfy said:


> *#6: False bottom/filter stand-offs*
> 
> As mentioned in Update #3, the 0.55mm thick perforated stainless used to make the mash false-bottom and kettle filter, is not as heavy duty as the commercial false-bottoms and might not easily hold the weight of the mash (or even sit in place with vigorous stirring).
> 
> Unfortunately my Australian-purchased (via Ebay) 1/2 inch washers don't actually fit 1/2 inch fittings (even though I asked the vendor before buying them), so I'll have to send them back and source some of the right size from overseas.



I had a commercially sourced dome false bottom and it used to flex or invert with the weight of grain on top if I ran the pump too hard. It did not after I put a support such as yours in it. If recirculating, don't run the pump flow too fast.

Get a silcone baking sheet and cut it into donuts to use as washers. You can get a piece of metal pipe and sharpen the end, place over baking sheet and whack other end with a hammer. Repeat again with a smaller piece of pipe and now you have a silcone washer factory happening. Most silcone washer made in this manner will be slightly smaller than the object they are going over, you will have to stretch them on to fit. It is probably done this way to get a better seal. You may have had incorrectly sized fibre washers so my answer is not a one size fits all answer.


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## Wolfy (29/5/12)

Silicon baking sheet is a great idea, and I have one cut-up for making custom-washers (and will use it for the hopback seal also), using a metal pipe is a good idea, because I tried cutting it with a knife and couldnt get them very round. 
However, I have a number of silicon flat and o-ring type washers, I just need some more Stainless ones so the fittings will sit correctly when installed (one disadvantage of the NPT fittings is they don't screw all the way up like parallel threaded fittings do).


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## matho (29/5/12)

looks good wolfy can't wait to see it finished 

cheers


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## vykuza (29/5/12)

Wolfy, it looks great. Thank you for taking the time to share the process in detail with us! I know it takes a lot of time, but it will no doubt help a few along the way!

:beer:


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## keifer33 (29/5/12)

Thanks for sharing Wolfy its given me more inspiration to just order more parts to get my rig closer to being finished and a more permanent setup.


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## Wolfy (30/5/12)

matho said:


> looks good wolfy can't wait to see it finished


Unfortunately, when it's finished, I suspect it's gong to be rather ugly and not look 'good' at all. :wacko: I picked up a flap-disk in Bunnings just the other day - thinking how 'good' nice shiny stainless bling looks - but put the disk back on the shelf - realizing that it's there to make good beer not look 'good'. At this stage, the plan is to wrap it all in duct-taped insulation, which will be practical, but ugly.


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## JaseH (30/5/12)

Wolfy said:


> Unfortunately, when it's finished, I suspect it's gong to be rather ugly and not look 'good' at all. :wacko: I picked up a flap-disk in Bunnings just the other day - thinking how 'good' nice shiny stainless bling looks - but put the disk back on the shelf - realizing that it's there to make good beer not look 'good'. At this stage, the plan is to wrap it all in duct-taped insulation, which will be practical, but ugly.



..ahh technical beauty is in the eye of the beerholder when it comes to brew rigs! Doesn't necessarily have to be neat and tidy to be a thing of beauty!

I've wrapped my MT in a camp mat and silver duct tape it actually comes up looking quite neat if you do a good job!


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## matho (30/5/12)

Frothie said:


> ..ahh technical beauty is in the eye of the beerholder when it comes to brew rigs! Doesn't necessarily have to be neat and tidy to be a thing of beauty!
> 
> I've wrapped my MT in a camp mat and silver duct tape it actually comes up looking quite neat if you do a good job!



yep this is what my HLT looks like but it still looks good to me





the pump is only attached for the test I was doing 

cheers steve


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## Yorg (31/5/12)

Looks pretty enough to me.


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## Wolfy (1/6/12)

*#7: Keg Drilling*

Drilling kegs is another topic that is a common source of discussion (and contention) among home brewers looking to build their own systems. After using the cheap step-bit from Bunnings to drill the tap-holes on my beer-fridge, I knew that it would not be up to the task of cutting holes in the beer kegs. In addition, the various discussions I had read on the subject made seem like something that would be beyond my very basic DIY skills. Those people who picked up grain at the recent bulk buy, may have noticed *iamozziyob * drilling some kegs, my kegs, because I assumed that I wouldn't be able to do it - and now feel like a twat because - with the right tools - it's a simple and easy task.

In this case the right tools are quite simple, a drill capable of controlled sustained low speed (less than 300RPM) combined with a decent amount of torque, and a Tungsten Carbide Tipped (TCT) Hole Saw of the appropriate size. The hole saw will cost around $30 (mine was from Keg King) but it should last a life-time (the guys at Keg King have drilled more than 80 kegs with theirs and it's still working fine). The only other thing needed is some cutting lubricant or WD40 to help keep things cool while drilling and prevent work-hardening the stainless and/or ruining the hole saw.




20mm hole saws are the best size for 1/2 inch fittings, but you do generally need to make the holes just a fraction larger once they are cut, 32mm hole saw is the exact right fit for the Keg King heating elements.

Mark the location to be drilled, ensuring that it's not too close to any seams or curved edges on the keg, using a washer as a spacer helps to ensure that the fitting will sit correctly once fitted in the drilled hole.





If your DIY skills are like mine, a piece of tape will stop the drill bit slipping on the curved stainless surface while drilling the pilot hole.





Low speed setting on the drill, some decent pressure, stopping every now and then to spray on some more cutting lubricant ...





... and in just a few minutes the hole saw should punch through the stainless leaving a nice clean hole.





The 20mm size hole saw is just a fraction too small for most 1/2 inch fittings, interestingly I have a range of fittings and the hole size required seems to depend on which fittings are going to be used, so it's good to check the individual fitting to ensure that you don't make the hole too big.





A small amount of manual labour with a file, a dremel type tool or anything similar will widen the hole just enough so that the fittings slip inside.




This is the thermowell which will be fitted to the base of the HLT, the TempMate probe will slide inside.

With the right tools, drilling neat and clean 1/2 inch keg holes is actually a very simple and easy procedure that anyone should be able to do.





Thanks to *iamozziyob *for the use of his 20mm TCT Hole Saw (it was rusted like that when I got it from you yesterday!) and for drilling the majority of the holes in my kegs for me - even though I now feel foolish since it's not a difficult job at all.


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## Yob (1/6/12)

Cheers wolfy, the trick certainly is having the right tool, those step drill bits are so shit in comparison to the TCT hole saws.. Also, those ozito dremmel type rotary tools make the clean up of the holes pretty quick.

Cant wait to see the system fire up.

Yob


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## Truman42 (1/6/12)

Not a bad skill set for someone with office hands. Well done, it looks great.


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## sponge (1/6/12)

Hey Wolfy,

Thanks for the thread as I'm just about to get started on turning a keg into a MT at the moment and these step by step instructions with pictures are making things a whole lot less intimidating to the whole project.

I was actually looking at a couple of TCT hole saw's for the hole's as I don't have much faith with my step drill bit, and after seeing your last post, looks like I was on the money with my suspicions.

Just wondering if you think these will be suitable. I just thought they were a little on the cheap side and hesitant on getting them.

I've also got a 1 1/4" element I'm going to install into my current HLT (usingn over the side immersion element atm) and would be looking at getting another size from the same seller if they are suitable.

Cheers heaps,


Sponge


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## MaestroMatt (1/6/12)

Freaking inspirational, Wolfy. I'm gobsmacked.


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## sponge (1/6/12)

(continuing from previous comment)

Or would something like this be a little more suitable?


Sponge


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## Malted (1/6/12)

sponge said:


> (continuing from previous comment)
> 
> Or would something like this be a little more suitable?
> 
> ...




Option two looks much better to me. 
Option one was just the saw with no arbor (the drill bit and the thing that holds it and the saw) - It also had only one tooth and said for soft ceramics and composite timbers. 

What about the 22mm one? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tungsten-Tipped...=item27b0663c8e No dremel needed to enlarge the hole.

This one is probably not TCT but it IS cheaper ($7.92, free postage from Hong Kong): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/22MM-Hex-Wrench...=item5ae699f130



Edit: Very interesting observation by Frothie below. Makes a lot of sense.


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## JaseH (1/6/12)

> What about the 22mm one? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tungsten-Tipped...=item27b0663c8e No dremel needed to enlarge the hole.



Your better off with the 20mm and rat tail file or dremel to file out the hole a little. It will be a much snugger fit and then you can use a notched lock nut with a silicon o-ring combo to seal it up. I have used both(22mm and a 20mm). With the 22mm hole saw the hole is ever so slightly larger than the fitting and an o-ring/lock nut combo will not seal properly so you end up having to use a silicon flat washer instead.

The notched lock nut and o-ring is very good if you can get away with it as you can tighten the fitting down hard so it is metal against metal and there is no movement. The 22mm hole with silicon flat washer seals fine but you cant tighten it down hard enough to be a solid mounting and it tends to work lose and move around a bit when operating ball valves etc.


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## sponge (1/6/12)

Yup, just the reason I posted the second link after finding that first one. Really doesnt seem adequate for use on SS as you pointed out.

I was just looking at the second one, and grabbing either the 20mm or 22mm, and the 32mm for the element I have. As you said, the 22mm would probably make the dremel fairly redundant, although I do have one already just incase. Just didn't want the hole being too big, and would rather start smaller and work up to the right size, especially with all the fittings being 1/2" NPT.


Sponge


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## Wolfy (1/6/12)

The only stuff I know about TCT hole saws is what I've been told by others - so I'm not the person to ask, but I'm glad others answered your questions. 

The first main thing was covered by Frothie, in that it's better to use the slightly smaller 20mm hole saw and enlarge the hole just a fraction, than have a (22mm) hole that is slightly too big.

Secondly, the 'quality' of the hole saw can be determined by the number of 'teeth' it has, so when comparing hole saws try to choose the one with the most teeth, since these do all the cutting work.


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## keifer33 (1/6/12)

You can also get q max punches that are suitable if you have ss less than 16 gauge (about 1.5mm)


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## Wolfy (2/6/12)

*#8: Fittings (revisited)*

As mentioned in Update #5, most plumbing fittings came from the USA or China, but obviously (other paying usually high shipping costs) it takes at least 2 weeks or longer for stuff to get here. Now that I have the majority of the equipment and fittings (and kegs are getting empty) I want to start brewing, however when I did a mock-fit-out, I was missing a small number of critical fittings and did not want to wait weeks for them to get here. So today I visited a local stainless-fittings supplier and as a result, one of the claims I made earlier turns out to be true, while another is not necessarily so - so I thought I'd better provide an update.

Earlier I said: "_Chinese Ebay fittings (which are probably exactly the same as all the others anyway) averaged out at about 20-40% cheaper_". This cost-information was based on telephone or online quotes from 3 local suppliers (Geordi, ProChem and Hoze Joint). Geordi are friendly and helpful, and if you show up at their premises, pay cash, maybe explain you are a home-brewer, they will often give a discounted price - I saved 20% off the phone-quoted price of some stainless pipe for example.

If you telephone ProChem to ask for a price on something as simple as a 1/2 inch stainless nipple, the quote can vary from $20 (in-house manufactured high quality), to $4 (standard quality NPT) to under $2 (cast BSP). But I only understood this after I went into their office/warehouse and essentially said I just wanted the cheapest fittings possible, because home-brewing is not going to put the fittings under pressure or stress, that I didn't care if they are NPT or BSP or if the fittings are 304 or 316 stainless. Once they understood I didn't need high-tech industrial grade fittings, much of their stuff turned out to be cheaper than American or Chinese Ebay prices - and the ProChem fittings are noticeably higher quality and finish than the Ebay ones - obviously they don't deliver to your door for that price, but they are worth talking to if you live close to one of their locations.

Even though I was wrong about Ebay always being cheaper, at least I was not wrong about BSP and NPT fittings being inter-changeable at 1/2 inch size:




From left: American NPT camlock, Australian BSP nipple, Chinese NPT cross, Australian BSP elbow, Chinese NPT nipple.
All these fittings fit snugly and with or without plumbing tape are tight and secure. At 1/2 inch size the only real difference between the NPT and BSP fittings is a difference in thread-pitch, so with some plumbing tape and a little care they all mate together without issue (but I'll make sure I provide an update if I drip boiling wort all over my toes once they are in use). 

If you're not yet confused about NTP, BSP, Australian, Chinese or American, the other thing to mention is buying stainless washers - which are required make sure the silicon washers fit tightly and help make the tapered thread fitting bulkheads sit snugly against the side of the kegs. Washer suppliers will deal _only _with the internal hole-size (and the external diameter) of the washers, meaning that if you ask for "_1/2 inch washers_" or even explain that you want "_washes to fit 1/2 inch plumbing fittings_" they'll (try to) give you washers where the internal hole is 1/2 inch wide - and these wont fit onto 1/2 inch plumbing fittings (since the 1/2 inch size refers to the internal size of the fitting not the size outside the thread). I think the guy at the washer-shop said the correct size was 3/4 inch but they seem to measure 13/16 inch (if that's even a real size for washer holes I don't know), the good thing is that if you go to a dedicated industrial fasteners shop, you'll pay between 5-40cents for washers that will fit 1/2 inch plumbing fittings, but that sell for $1.50-2.00 each and home-brew shops.


----------



## razz (2/6/12)

Great info for many brewers Wolfy , young and old. I've found that 1" npt to bsp works as good as 1/2", thread tape expected.


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## Feldon (2/6/12)

For those interested, a good explanation with tables of NPT and BSP thread compatibility can be found here: http://pipeandhose.com/faceted_search/results/taxonomy%3A16


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## WarmBeer (2/6/12)

Another good thing to mention is that thread tape is not just for sealing, but for getting the damn things back apart again afterwards. Without thread-tape, it's always a struggle, due to expansion/contraction during heating/cooling. The tape acts like a lubricant.

Pink tape is best, and tougher, but white tape is just as useful in these circumstances.


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## BigDaddy (3/6/12)

Building something similar myself at the moment - yours looks great! I'll be following this for sure.


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## Wolfy (3/6/12)

*#9 Cleaning*

Before everything gets fitted, I figured it was a good idea to ensure that it was clean - especially the imported fittings. All the fittings had a bath in hot water and sodium percarbonate, then a citric acid bath and a rinse in water before drying:





The kegs will also get a wash with sodium percarbonate and - especially anywhere I have drilled, cut, filed or grinded - a good scrub (with a non metallic kitchen scrub-mat-thing) with some Stainless Steel Cleaner (which contains Oxalic acid, citric acid and other random stuff including AES, K12, ETA-2NA) which should help ensure that the steel is passivated anywhere that that I've worked on it:


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## homebrewkid (3/6/12)

any chance of a rough build cost or do you want to keep that private?

cheers: HBK


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## Wolfy (3/6/12)

LOL, nothing about privacy, but I'm not sure I _want _to know. 

Itemizing and adding things up, it looks like the total price will be about $750-1000
That's the _total _cost price, assuming that everything is purchased-new and _nothing _is re-used from a previous setup.
However, the _actual _total depends if non-purchased items are included or not (Eg hole-saws were borrowed but would have cost $50 to buy, and in theory the electric power-tools could also be included etc).


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## WarmBeer (4/6/12)

Wolfy said:


>


Nothing says "simplicity" like a square metre of random stainless bits'n'bobs.

I envy you not your post-brew cleanup :lol:


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## Truman42 (4/6/12)

Hey Wolfy whats the internal diameter of the barbs on your female camlock fittings? 

I have some and the diameter seemed to be quite small. 
I had problems trying to prime my pump and blamed the camlock fittings coming out of the mashtun but since taking them of I still have dramas so curious to know what yours are?


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## Wolfy (4/6/12)

Truman said:


> Hey Wolfy whats the internal diameter of the barbs on your female camlock fittings?
> 
> I have some and the diameter seemed to be quite small.


I've not measured them but have noticed the same, in hindsight I should have purchased the female camlock - male-thread (rather than female camlock and hose barb) and attached the silicon hose around the male thread and got significantly less flow restriction.


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## DanteHicks (4/6/12)

Was the Chickpea Marsala nice?


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## sponge (4/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> I've not measured them but have noticed the same, in hindsight I should have purchased the female camlock - male-thread (rather than female camlock and hose barb) and attached the silicon hose around the male thread and got significantly less flow restriction.



Exactly what I've done with my camlocks. Female parts for hoses have male threads, with the silicone tube being pushed over the top of the threads and secured with a hose clamp.

I looked at the barbs for a little bit, but decided on the thread option due to the reduced flow rate through the barbs


Sponge


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## Truman42 (4/6/12)

Im still having priming problems bit I think the reduced barbs may have made it worse.


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## Wolfy (4/6/12)

DanteHicks said:


> Was the Chickpea Marsala nice?


Don't know yet, that one is unopened, but I try to keep a collection of the Indian-pocket-meals in the cupboard, just add some microwaved-rice and at about $1.50 each they make a simple, quick and tasty dinner. 


sponge said:


> Exactly what I've done with my camlocks. Female parts for hoses have male threads, with the silicone tube being pushed over the top of the threads and secured with a hose clamp.


I purchased the camlocks 6-8months ago before I realized would have been better to do it that way (spreading the new-brewery purchases over almost a year means SWMBO does not really notice the overall cost).


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## Truman42 (4/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> ........(spreading the new-brewery purchases over almost a year means SWMBO does not really notice the overall cost).



Im with you on that one brother..


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## leahy268 (4/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> (spreading the new-brewery purchases over almost a year means SWMBO does not really notice the overall cost).



+1 to that too.. Although might be over a couple of years for me before I'm done.


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## Wolfy (5/6/12)

*#10: Fittings (revisited x2)*

I want to stop talking about fittings and get down to brewing just as much as anyone reading this probably wants the same, however I thought it wouldn't hurt to be honest about some of the risks of being a tight-arse when buying fittings.

I mentioned earlier that the first batch of Chinese fittings were not that great quality, they'll still work fine and I'll use the fittings in non-critical areas like the sight-glass on the HLT, but still the workmanship was a bit shoddy:





The other thing to realize is that fittings do not appear to have a standard size. While they are all 1/2 inch fittings, and all mate together without much issue, the outside diameter, length and even thread-length of the fittings can vary depending on where and when they were purchased:




Each of these fittings is lined up exactly on the edge of the bench, however each is longer, taller or have longer thread-length than the other. Again it's not a major issue, however, it's something to consider if you're designing stuff that depends on specific size fittings.

In the last update I washed all the fittings (sodium percarbonate, citric acid then water rinse) and put then on a towel to dry, sure they had a few drops of water on them, but I thought nothing of it. However when looked a day later the external-body-bolts on the 3-piece ball-valve have rusted:








These were supposed to be all 316 grade stainless, and while the bolts are stamped 'A2' - which means they should be 304 grade stainless - they're clearly not if they've rusted after drying with a few spots of water on them. Interestingly these were purchased from two different Ebay vendors, so I'd guess that either the manufacturer or distributor has cut some corners or something. Both vendors were quick to offer refunds, I'll pull them apart and remove the rust and be more careful, but I presume the external-body-bolts are some inferior grade of steel which will easily rust when it gets wet, so will likely need to be replaced.


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## notung (6/6/12)

Buyer beware: cheap Chinese stainless. I'm really quite surprised to see spots of rust after their first clean. Thanks a lot for the posts wolfy. I'm not planning to build a 3V rig at any time in the future but I am really finding your posts, with all their luscious close ups, super informative and enjoyable. Keep it up! :beer:


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## Wolfy (6/6/12)

notung said:


> Buyer beware: cheap Chinese stainless. I'm really quite surprised to see spots of rust after their first clean.


Exactly, however the refund for both has already been processed, so I can't complain about that.


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## TSMill (7/6/12)

sponge said:


> Exactly what I've done with my camlocks. Female parts for hoses have male threads, with the silicone tube being pushed over the top of the threads and secured with a hose clamp.
> 
> I looked at the barbs for a little bit, but decided on the thread option due to the reduced flow rate through the barbs
> 
> ...




Other option is to use female threaded camlocks, coupled with a 1/2" hose tail which will give you a larger orifice than the barbed camlocks.


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## samward (7/6/12)

TSMill said:


> Other option is to use female threaded camlocks, coupled with a 1/2" hose tail which will give you a larger orifice than the barbed camlocks.



That's what I am doing for the system I am currently building. I also found that the hose would often get cut up trying to get it over the male thread (I was originally using SS nipples as I could only get female threaded camlocks). Getting the silicon hose over the 1/2" (ID) hose tail seems to do less damage.


----------



## Wolfy (7/6/12)

*#11 Ball valves*
Blog rant

Even after their bath in sodium percarbonate, the ball valves still had a rather nasty chemical/grease/manufacturing smell to them. Since I didn't want this in my beer, I pulled them apart and gave them a good internal clean and removed all the industrial-type grease that was packed around the ball and seals. When reassembling them I used a very small amount of food-grade keg-lube, but since they will not be turned on or off very often, it was probably not necessary. Interestingly, now that I've disassembled, cleaned and reassembled them, they actually open/close much easier than before - which is a surprise because usually I break shit when I pull it apart or it never goes back together the same. 

Ball valves are probably the most common type of tap or valve used in home-brewery situations, because they can be disassembled and cleaned inside and out. 3-piece valves have more pieces and are slightly easier to clean when pulled-apart, however the 2-piece valves are just as easy to disassemble and with a rag or brush very easy to fully clean inside.





3-piece ball valves are disassembled by undoing the 4 body-bolts, and while this allows the valve to be taken apart while one end is still attached to the fitting. When reassembled two Teflon seals hold/seal the ball in place as well as providing a leak-proof seal between the three pieces of the valve. 2-piece valves are disassembled by unscrewing the two body parts, so as well as the two Teflon ball-seals, 2-piece valves have an additional smaller (and somewhat insubstantial and apparently easier to mangle) Teflon seal between the two body pieces.




Both 2 and 3-piece valves can easily be disassembled for full cleaning, and while the seals in the 3-piece valves do appear more substantial, 3-piece valves are also about 30% to 50% more expensive than similar 2-piece valves.


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## Wolfy (7/6/12)

*#12 Sight Glass*
Blog info

A sight-glass on the HLT will help measure water into the mash and also be a visual reminder for me not to let the element in the HLT run dry. The kits from BrewHardware look good, however due to their length, postage is not very cost effective, and the similar kits I could find locally are about $60-70. In addition the information about Polycarbonate and it's relation to being food-safe did not fill me with confidence. So using the concepts from BrewHardware's kit, the sight 'glass' for the HLT is very simple; a couple of stainless elbows and nipples, a few washers, a length of silicon hose and hose clamps to hold it in place:





Since the silicon tube is not very transparent, I borrowed the little ball-thing from a kitchen kettle and added a couple of small washers that sit on the elbows so that it does not float away or get lost:


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## Fish13 (7/6/12)

Please i do hope you used gloves with the eta-2na


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## kymba (7/6/12)

fish13 said:


> Please i do hope you used gloves with the eta-2na



keep going...


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## brad81 (12/6/12)

Wolfy, what's the order for the washers? I can see from the outside shot, you go SS washer - Silicone washer - Pot wall - ? - ? - ?

Can you share the inside sequence? Am I right in thinking that it's Silicone washer - SS washer - Nut?

Cool guide mate gave it a decent read after you directed me to it the other day.

Cheers,

Brad


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## Wolfy (12/6/12)

brad81 said:


> Wolfy, what's the order for the washers?


Work is getting in the way this week, so I've not had time to assemble everything yet. 
However, I presume that these guys know what they're doing, since they sell the stuff for a living:
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?r...p;product_id=91
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?r...;product_id=178
http://www.brewhardware.com/valves/59-weldless-bulkhead
(Pictures/details/info on their websites).


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## Yob (12/6/12)

Hay wolfy, have you measured what the readable volume is on the HLT? I found when i did mine it was a bit of a PITA as i probably drilled a bit high so in the end i needed to turn my elbows round to the horizontal almost to get my volume reading where i wanted it. Though you probably had the holes drilled in a better location on the keg  

cmon man.. Build like there is a swap looming.

:drinks:


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## Wolfy (12/6/12)

iamozziyob said:


> Hay wolfy, have you measured what the readable volume is on the HLT?


Nope, but I presume the sight-gauge will read between 10 and 40L, combine that with fly-sparging and the HERMS, I hope it will be accurate enough - will know in a week or so.


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## JaseH (13/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> Nope, but I presume the sight-gauge will read between 10 and 40L, combine that with fly-sparging and the HERMS, I hope it will be accurate enough - will know in a week or so.



On mine the 10L mark is right at the point where the liquid enters the sight tube. This is for both an elbow or a T piece mounted as low I dared go before the keg wall curves and I risk not being able to seal it properly.

This works fine as I never have a need to measure below 10L anyhow, I generally fill to somewhere around 40L for strike and then top it up again before sparging. The element in my HLT is exposed at the 10L mark anyhow.


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## brad81 (13/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> Work is getting in the way this week, so I've not had time to assemble everything yet.
> However, I presume that these guys know what they're doing, since they sell the stuff for a living:
> http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?r...p;product_id=91
> http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?r...;product_id=178
> ...



Pity they don't ship internationally  

Thanks for the links!


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## MastersBrewery (13/6/12)

brad81 said:


> Pity they don't ship internationally
> 
> Thanks for the links!



They don't to most countries, but they do to Australia! Last year they stopped all international shipping(problems with returns etc) later in the year shipping was resumed to Australia


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## flavo (13/6/12)

brad81 said:


> Pity they don't ship internationally
> 
> Thanks for the links!


I've got a few sets of these: http://www.brewershardware.com/Weldless-Bu...-X-1-2-FPT.html

They've never leaked a drop. Derrin's stuff is top quality, I have a few bits of kit from him.


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## homebrewkid (13/6/12)

great guide someone needs to put this into PDF format.............make it easier to go through


cheers: HBK


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## JaseH (13/6/12)

brad81 said:


> Pity they don't ship internationally
> 
> Thanks for the links!



The same components are available from Keg King if you prefer to source them locally.


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## QldKev (13/6/12)

brad81 said:


> Pity they don't ship internationally
> 
> Thanks for the links!





Check out T&S valves, local Aust company and excellent pricing (I found to be cheaper by the time you add postage), and not that cheap n dodgy Chinese made shit like some other companies. 


QldKev


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## white.grant (13/6/12)

QldKev said:


> Check out T&S valves, local Aust company and excellent pricing (I found to be cheaper by the time you add postage), and not that cheap n dodgy Chinese made shit like some other companies.
> 
> 
> QldKev



I work just down the road from T&S valves in Ingleburn and am becoming something of a regular there just lately (they even let me out the back now so I can browse the shelves). On my last visit one of the guys let me know that they have discount prices for account customers (after I rang up a cash sale :angry: ) Accounts are free and apparently easy to set up if you have an abn. In some cases the discounts are in the order of 50% which makes them very competitive with offshore sellers + delivery, and as Kev says, the quality is there in spades.

Definitely worth a try if you're doing a new build or an overhaul.


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## breakbeer (17/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> Work is getting in the way this week, so I've not had time to assemble everything yet.
> However, I presume that these guys know what they're doing, since they sell the stuff for a living:
> http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?r...p;product_id=91
> http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?r...;product_id=178
> ...



I wish I had of seen this before I bought my weldless bulk heads  I would have gone for the one in the 2nd link

Instead, I bought the bulk head & had trouble tightening it properly. I then bought hex nipples to replace the threaded nipple but now I think I need the flat washers instead of the O-Ring.


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## Wolfy (23/6/12)

*#13: Insulation*
Blog rant

Buffed and polished stainless kegs, look good and add a very nice bling-factor. However, I wanted it to be more about making good beer than looking good - besides it's not as if anyone, except myself, will be looking at the new setup anyway. While it is uglier than polished steel, insulated kegs are logical and sensible, and while the energy-cost-savings are likely to be small, they should help. In addition since it will be electric-heated, there is no problem with open flames or melting insulation to worry about.

A neighbor was throwing away this camping mat/insulation/stuff, it's about an inch thick with black-rubber-stuff on one side and blue on the other, the pipe-insulation was on chuck-out special at Bunnings for $1.50.






The insulation was cut into strips 15inches high and 52-53inches long, the 32mm hole-saw easily made some holes for the fittings.





The bottom layer of insulation was a little more difficult to install fit, since it didn't really want to stick down in place.





But copious quantities of tape stuck it in place.





A couple of rolls of silver-Aldi tape and all three kegs were wrapped up, and while they look short, dumpy and ugly now, the latex does show off their curves.


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## Yob (24/6/12)

hook it up and throw some grains in Wolfy.. the suspense is killing me  :lol: 

Looking the goods man

:beerbang:


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## Wolfy (24/6/12)

iamozziyob said:


> hook it up and throw some grains in Wolfy.. the suspense is killing me :lol:


Getting there! Should be able to run a test-brew in the next few days, but I've only just started to re-culture some yeast, so have to wait for that before I can do anything real.

*#14: Fit-out, Leak Test & Burn-in*
1000-word blog rant

After assembling all the fittings and putting things together, I've come to the following realizations:

Tapered fittings (NPT) work best for pipe-to-pipe type connections, such as attaching valves to fittings or camlocks. The tapered thread, combined with some thread-tape, locks the fitting in place and prevents leaks without additional seals or gaskets.





However, NTP fittings are much less useful for bulkhead-type connections through keg walls. Due to the tapered thread, the nut or fitting must tighten exactly as it compresses the gasket/or washer against the wall. However, the fitting can easily lock-tight too quickly (and not seal to the side of the vessel) or not tighten quickly enough (potentially allowing for leaks along the thread). So additional spacers- silicon (not visible in the picture) and steel washers are required:





On the other hand parallel threaded fittings (BSP(P)) work much better as bulk-head connections. Thread-tape prevents leaks along the thread and the fittings tighten securely against the side of the vessel, meaning that a water-tight seal can be made with just a locknut and a silicon o-ring:





With this in mind - and knowing that at 1/2 inch size both BSP and NTP threads mate without problem - bulkhead type connections through the wall of a vessel would be made best with a parallel BSP thread, while fitting-to-fitting connections like the ball valves, are best using tapered NTP thread.

The Chinese Ebay supplied lock-nuts have an o-ring groove cut in them so the easiest and cheapest method for sealing through-keg bulkheads is simply to use the nut and a silicon o-ring (thermowell picture above). However as the fitting is tightened the o-rings can deform or break easily making them less than useful, and essentially useless in any situation that does not have a channeled-nut for them to sit inside. As a consequence many of the fittings (especially if they were through the keg with NTP) required both a silicon washer and stainless shim-washer. Most bulkhead fittings were sealed on the inside in order to to stop the water/wort from getting into the threaded connection and between the fitting and the keg-walls.

Sight-glass works well once the keg is full of water:





Filling the kegs with water, indicated a few fittings needed to be tightened or re-assembled, but by the time I was finished all of the seals were water-tight first time. Once that was done it was time for a burn-in test, or more correctly a boil-in, by connecting the element directly to the power-socket and running it for about an hour. 





Probably something that could be skipped, but in this case the silicon seal 'slipped' - likely due to the fitting being over-tightened - after about 45mins and ended up spilling boiling water all over the floor:





Since I was a little lax in cleaning up after cutting, drilling, filing and grinding, it's possible that bits of metal were left inside the keg which caused a little bit of surface rust after the first test:




The Stainless Cleaner, a scrubby and a bit of rubbing removed them fairly quickly.




And it looked like new again, next time I'll be more pedantic about cleaning things after playing with power or hand tools.




After the 1 hour test-boil the cord and element-connection were quite warm, so it's easy to understand how a bit of pressure or pulling could causes problems. Hopfully some tape, spiral-wrap and a cable-tie will help keep thing safe and secure:


----------



## Yob (24/6/12)

:icon_chickcheers: ...and then?

edge of my fkin seat here man...

more and then!!! :lol:


----------



## Wolfy (24/6/12)

iamozziyob said:


> ...and then?


I have to clean up the 20L of boiling water spilled onto my bathroom floor (was not like i was sitting there watching the 1hour long test boil).
Wash and dry the towels/bathmats that got flooded and were used to clean the spill up.
Fix the leaking kettle-tap (that was not leaking before I undid it to stick on the insulation) but which is now difficult/impossible to do with an inch of insulation in the way and only a small hole (which should be possible tomorrow when I'm not frustrated after trying 6 times and ready to rip the insulation off and kick it across the room).
After that, refit then test the kettle elements.
But there was dinner to make and eat, and now I'm sitting watching yeast slants grow (or considering if they will) since I was a slack **** and didn't re-culture some of them for a year or two. 

So while I have a keg-and-a-half of beer in the fridge and some more bottled in milk-crates it's not yet the end of the beer-world. But now that you have made me think about it the only way I'll probably drink the keg of Dunkelweizen (same one that was at your place) is if there is no other beer in the house - nothing wrong with the beer, its even enjoyable for what it is, but it's still a wheat beer. :icon_vomit:


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## Wolfy (26/6/12)

Shifter-friendly base-insulation:





Fits well with the 3-piece valve:





HLT sight-glass calibration:




Graduations marked from 12-38L, the element is exposed at 10L so it should also help not run things dry.


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## matho (26/6/12)

hey wolfy,

just a quick note on the 3 piece valve, if you put the bolts so the heads face the pot it will make pulling it apart easier as the nuts will come off easy and the bolts will be held in place so you won't have to hold them when putting it back together.

the builld is looking good, great job.

cheers steve


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## Wolfy (26/6/12)

matho said:


> just a quick note on the 3 piece valve, if you put the bolts so the heads face the pot it will make pulling it apart easier as the nuts will come off easy and the bolts will be held in place so you won't have to hold them when putting it back together.


Very good point that.  
I just presumed I'd unscrew them from the nipple and disassemble them that way, will see in time which method is easier.


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## thebigwilk (26/6/12)

I too have had problems with threaded fittings leaking even after re-tightening it seems that the heating then cooling process slowly loosens the fittings. I now use teflon tape on the threaded fittings, just the last two or three threads worth, i put about ten full rotations of tape on just a very narrow area at the end of the thread, then when you place the fitting in to the hole it acts like another seal when you tighten the internal nut, the teflon compresses against the kettle and the fitting, usually you can only see a very small white ring of teflon between the kettle and the fitting. Guaranteed no more leaks .


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## _HOME_BREW_WALLACE_ (26/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> Very good point that.
> I just presumed I'd unscrew them from the nipple and disassemble them that way, will see in time which method is easier.





So when do you reckon the maiden brew day will be?

EDIT: And what do you plan to do with the old rig?


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## Wolfy (26/6/12)

thebigwilk said:


> ..i put about ten full rotations of tape on just a very narrow area at the end of the thread, then when you place the fitting in to the hole it acts like another seal when you tighten the internal nut, the teflon compresses against the kettle and the fitting, usually you can only see a very small white ring of teflon between the kettle and the fitting.


I've used nearly a full roll of the thick-pink tape putting things together applying 2 rotations on each thread ... trying 10 on each might be very interesting! 


_WALLACE_ said:


> So when do you reckon the maiden brew day will be?
> 
> EDIT: And what do you plan to do with the old rig?


Projected first brew has been '_tomorrow_' ... for a few days now. 
However, I might I get the pump wired up tonight, and finish the hop back and HERMS tomorrow, _then _it will be ready for it's first run.

As what happened with my old setup: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...c=56844&hl=
Looking at the date, it's no surprise that the keg fridge, multiple crates full beer and a few batches of donations from Bulk Buys are now virtually all empty.


----------



## Wolfy (27/6/12)

*Update #15: Pump*
Blog post

They're not called _Little Brown Pump_, for nothing:





Compared the the 1/2 inch valve and fittings, these things are 'little'. It's wired up via a 12V transformer recycled from our old cable-modem, and powered by one of the points on the control box.

The Little Brown Pump recirculated from what is essentially the bottom of the brew-stand (where the HERMS will sit) to the top of the HLT (return fitting provided for easy CIP once things are finished), via the mash tun, at a rate of 3L per min and did so without problem for an hour:





A brew-stand is on the 'to do' list, but since it's not essential for making beer, it's not going to happen yet. The old table-thing one of our neighbors was throwing out and a few milk-crates should do an adequate job.




The milk crates are cable-tied down, so they can't move or tip.

While many home-brewers, both in the UK and Australia, use the Little Brown Pumps without issue or complaint, after pulling one apart, I'm not sure it's something that will have a permanent place in my brewery.




Not only are there a number of small, fiddly internal parts, some of which are made of metal, but the impeller/shaft and housing are not sealed that well (or separated like a Magnetic Drive pump), so wort or other contaminates could get - and stay - in/to the various internal components of the pump.


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## Screwtop (27/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> *Update #15: Pump*
> 
> While many home-brewers, both in the UK and Australia, use the Little Brown Pumps without issue or complaint, after pulling one apart, I'm not sure it's something that will have a permanent place in my brewery.
> 
> ...




It's so bloody hard to get something good for nothing!!!!!!!! :lol:

Screwy


----------



## grimpanda (30/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> *#6: False bottom/filter stand-offs*
> 
> As mentioned in Update #3, the 0.55mm thick perforated stainless used to make the mash false-bottom and kettle filter, is not as heavy duty as the commercial false-bottoms and might not easily hold the weight of the mash (or even sit in place with vigorous stirring). The two threaded pipe fittings arrived today, and after a little bit of work with a grinding disk on the angle grinder, they fit under the false bottom, provide support and should allow the wort to easily drain.
> 
> ...



Hey Wolfy,

Is your 1/2" socket 'standoff' sealed on the outside of the MLT? 

i.e: plug > washer > false bottom > washer > threaded socket > *vessel wall > washer/nut >* hex nipple > valve?

If so, any issues with leaks? I'm about to set up a similar setup - I know ideally it should be sealed on the inside, but there is little clearance to do so, even with the 1/2" socket cut down.

Cheers.


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## Wolfy (30/6/12)

Gabe said:


> Is your 1/2" socket 'standoff' sealed on the outside of the MLT?
> 
> i.e: plug > washer > false bottom > washer > threaded socket > *vessel wall > washer/nut >* hex nipple > valve?
> 
> If so, any issues with leaks? I'm about to set up a similar setup - I know ideally it should be sealed on the inside, but there is little clearance to do so, even with the 1/2" socket cut down.


Yes, for exactly the reason you mentioned, the false-bottom 'sits' better when the fitting is sealed from outside of the MLT/Kettle.

There is not even a washer on the inside of the keg so it goes like this:
Plug > washer > false bottom > threaded socket > keg-wall > silicon washer > steel washer > hex nipple > valve > camlock.

This is the outer-side-view of the mash tun:





No problems/leaks yet, but will see how things go with many repeated brews.


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## grimpanda (30/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> Yes, for exactly the reason you mentioned, the false-bottom 'sits' better when the fitting is sealed from outside of the MLT/Kettle.



Thanks - gives me peace of mind with my own planned setup - i'll post some pics when I'm done


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## Wolfy (3/7/12)

*Update #16: Mill Mount*
Blog post

About the only thing from my old brewery that will migrate to the new one is the long-handled Coppers-type spoon, that means that even the mill/mount and mash paddle will be new and something I have to build. I got the mill some months ago, at the right price, and now that the brewery is all-but-finished it was time to find a way to mount it. I was considering making a dedicated table/mount, or building the mill onto some large plastic buckets, however following a suggestion from another home-brewer the easiest and most logical way to mount the mill was directly ontop of the Mash Tun.

Some MDF from the shed which should do the job:





The MDF was cut to shape using a jig-saw and the hole-saw was used to cut the pilot holes for the mill:





The MDF was cut to fit ontop of the mash-tun-keg and bolts used to hold it in place when fitted:





On low-speed setting (and if I ensure that one of the batteries is always changed) the cordless drill should work fine for driving the mill:





The mill-hopper, which was supplied with the mill, is likely going to be a bit small to hold a full batch of grain, so I might have to extend it in the future.


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## pk.sax (3/7/12)

One easy way to make a board for the mill, wolfy, is to take a plank of pine, chop it in two. Cut half the width of the mill out from both halves, then dowel and glue them together. When you bolt the mill to the board, just make sure to secure the other side with a strip of something to keep it from buckling.

I hate MDF, esp around anything food.

PS: Good thinking of milling on top of the mash tun.. I really should do that too....


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## Wolfy (7/7/12)

*Update #16: Mill Mount V#2*

I figured it was probably a good idea to replace the MDF with some dressed (_Premium Pine from responsible sources in NZ_) pine. $10 seemed a good price to eliminate any cancer causing Formaldehyde resins and other potentially not-so-nice stuff.

Most of it's made from 140x19mm pine (a single 1.8m length cut into 3):





Hole saw:





Jig saw:





Glue and dowel was beyond my skill-level so just used lots of wood-screws:





More screws - and washers - to hold the bit of wood that will sit under the lip of the keg to hold things in place:





Mill placement, no chance of buckling or giving in under the weight of the grain:





Completed (from the bottom):





And the top, very solid is not going to move, break or bend anytime soon:


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## MastersBrewery (8/7/12)

hit that with some stain and sealer, thats a keeper!


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## Wolfy (11/7/12)

*Update #18: Wort!*
Blog rant

After a bit of time, effort and money, it was nice to have it finally do what it should ... make some wort:




I thought it was surprisingly clear into the fermentor, I no-chilled 24L into 2 x 10L jerrys and tipped the last 4L.

I've had a 4.8kg bag of Wey Pils that G&G crushed for me 3+ years ago, it's been sitting around since then and even sustained a family of mice for a while. So I figured it would be a good test-run for the new system, with the intention of no-chilling and if they don't get infected, use the wort for lager-starters that (in theory) I might be making soon.

Filling the HLT, food-grade water-hose ($20 on Ebay from a mob in Dandenong) directly from the shower-outlet .




I plan to fill the HLT the night before brew-day so that any chlorine will have time to dissipate.

Filling the mash-tun from the bottom, via the pump, HERMS and hoses:




HLT was set to 60C but by the time it was all mixed the mash-thermometer read 45C, so I'll need to test/calibrate what temperatures are required.
HERMS is not quite finished yet, it works fine, but needs to have the lid fitted and the fittings attached to that, but I wanted to check that it worked as expected while I could see what was going on.

No dough-balls undeletting at what turned out to be about 45C:





Mash-filter worked well, no problems circulating even right at the start:









One of the main problems I did have was uncalibrated thermometers and difficulty understanding the PID instructions (or the bloody thing not working quite as expected).
Not sure if the auto-tune stuff worked or not, and for a while it seemed to think that 67C was a good temperature to run when I had it set to 65C.




The mash-tun dial-thermometer consistently read 2C less than the PID, which means either one or both need calibrating and/or there were losses via the hose/mash tun.
The HLT probe also appeared to be 2-3C out, so I will need to buy a decent scientific glass thermometer and calibrate them all.

As expected, after an hour of recirculation the wort was clear:




One of the things still on the 'to do' list is a better wort-return-mechanism, but I wanted to run a test first to check volumes/sizes/headspace and the like.


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## Wolfy (11/7/12)

Filling the kettle while fly-sparging:




Current plan is to use a 2nd pump and put all the 3 kegs on the same level, but unfortunately the (March pump take-off) HB-pump that KegKing sell only comes with barb fittings and not threaded ones, so I'll need to keep looking for one suitable.

Mash drained well enough, but I presume there was a fair bit of channeling due to the dodgy-wort-return.




The second hose was because I was one camlock short and have not yet worked out the best way to compensate (or buy another).

The 2 elements worked well with with break forming even before the kettle was filled:





A single element was sufficient to keep a rolling boil going, but need to add volume-markers to the kettle and then check the evaporation rate:





Some random hops, Cascade that didn't vacuum-seal in the freezer and home-grown Perl which I have an abundance of:




I wanted to test both pellet and hop flowers since I will generally use both in most recipes, 20g pellets and 10g whole hops in the kettle and another 20g whole hops in the hop-back.

At the end of the boil:





Kettle drained via the hop-back:




(More details on that when it's finished, but it worked mostly-as-expected).

A surprising amount of break and trub was left in the kettle:




The kettle is drained as soon as the boil is finished (no whirlpool or waiting) from the bottom, under what is essentially a false-bottom, with the hop back adding a second filter before the plate-chiller (which I will generally use).

Same wort-picture as before, but a bit of excitement about having it all work is not a bad thing:





The 'to-do' list includes fixing the wort-return to the mash, adding volume calibration to the kettle, finish the HERMS and hop-back, work out an efficient way to clean everything, try to find a way to not spill boiling water/wort all over the place when changing the hoses, calibrating the various thermometers and trying to make some sense of the PID ... and after all that is the brew-stand build.


----------



## Yob (11/7/12)

as I understand your build Wolfy you are draining the Keggle from the bottom? Have you got a screen over the outlet? how do you stop the trub from draining to the hopback? or does the hopback act as the filter?

Looking good man

:beerbang:


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## glenwal (11/7/12)

iamozziyob said:


> Have you got a screen over the outlet? <snip> does the hopback act as the filter?



And how does it not get clogged in 2 seconds flat? Don't you get all the trub being sucked into it before any wort gets a chance to go anywhere?


Edit: re-read your post - never mind - you said you drained immediately and didn't whirlpool. I assume this is so you don't give the trub time to settle out of the solution, and hence avoid the problem?


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## Wolfy (11/7/12)

iamozziyob said:


> as I understand your build Wolfy you are draining the Keggle from the bottom? Have you got a screen over the outlet? how do you stop the trub from draining to the hopback? or does the hopback act as the filter?





Glen W said:


> And how does it not get clogged in 2 seconds flat? Don't you get all the trub being sucked into it before any wort gets a chance to go anywhere?
> 
> Edit: re-read your post - never mind - you said you drained immediately and didn't whirlpool. I assume this is so you don't give the trub time to settle out of the solution, and hence avoid the problem?


The kettle has a perforated stainless false bottom, as per this post earlier in the thread: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=917684
(Essentially it's the same as the mash-tun filter, just slightly smaller so it fits in under the elements)
Whirlpooling would only concentrate the trub on top of the false bottom, and give the wort time to cool before hitting the hop-back (neither would be advantageous).
Immediately after the kettle, the hop-back has another 2 perforated 'filter plates' and the whole hop flowers, adding additional filtration.
Depending on how it all worked I was/am going to make some additional swiss voile insert filters (also so I can use hop-pellets in the hop-back) - but from the first experiment it seems the majority of the break and hops are left in the kettle, so additional complications may not be needed.

Filling the HLT and letting the water sit did well to remove any chlorine-smell, however (while it seemed a good idea at 5am) adding the brewing salts undissolved was obviously not a smart thing to do:




The first batch of real-beer-wort might not be made today as I had anticipated. :angry:

*Edit*: As per the picture it _looked _like quite bad/deep rust, but it essentially washed away as soon as it was drained, something about iron oxides attaching themselves to the flakes of salt maybe ... cleaning/repasivating now with stainless-cleaner but was not the problem I thought it was.


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## Wolfy (13/7/12)

*Update #19* (or 20 or something) *KegKing Elements*
Blog stuff

As previously outlined the converted keg-kettle (Keggle) runs 2x KegKing 2200W heating elements. Previous posts show how they were installed and what I did to try and prevent the cord/connection from flexing when they are in use (and melty-hot).

Heating the wort by running both elements unattended is not a good idea - so I found out yesterday - with only about 33L in the kettle (leaving 17L head-space) the boil from both elements was so vigorous that the kettle overflowed as it came to the boil and the break was formed:






After the break has formed, both elements can be run without problem, however using both at the same time (for single batches, approx 30-33L of wort) produces an extremely vigorous boil:

(Keggle indoors and heavily insulated as per previous posts)

After the wort is brought to the boil, a single element is more than adequate to keep a rolling-boil going in the insulated kettle:


_(I've no idea how or if we can embed videos here)._


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## mxd (13/7/12)

excellent stuff, maybe make up a power adjuster (light dimmer) as 1 element is probably not good enough for a rolling boil (it could be close) ??


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## Yob (13/7/12)

is that nipple at the top for the future sparge arm?

h34r:


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## Wolfy (13/7/12)

mxd said:


> excellent stuff, maybe make up a power adjuster (light dimmer) as 1 element is probably not good enough for a rolling boil (it could be close) ??


Would you want a more active boil than in the single-element-video?




iamozziyob said:


> is that nipple at the top for the future sparge arm?


The kettle, which actually still has the silicon hose from the nipple to the bottom of the kettle (avoiding the elements) in the video?
Minimizes splashing (and any chance of HSA) while the wort is being transferred from the mash, filling via the kettle-tap would leave any grunge/grain _under _the kettle false bottom/filter. The hose gets removed as soon as the kettle is full and I remember to pull it out.
Theory is - in the future - they will both allow quick/easy changing for a CIP spray-thing. Attach spray-thing to nipple via silicon hose, put lid on, pump/spray cleaning stuff all over the inside. So far I've found cleaning immediately after use saves much scrubbing, so the need for CIP will depend on my laziness now (not cleaned up from today's batch yet) and in the future


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## Wolfy (14/7/12)

*Update #20: Hop-back*
1000 words of text as well as 16000 words worth of pictures on blog here.

Originally I was planning to make an enclosed (pressurized) system, much like the Blichman Hop-Rocket. However, after research and reading, it appears that many Hop-Rocket owners run it up-side-down with the top open and get good or better results using it that way as a hop-back. Not having the hop-back fully enclosed made it much easier to design and make, however it does require monitoring while the kettle is draining to ensure that the system remains in equilibrium.

It's made from a "3L Bain Marie Buffet Stainless Steel Canister & Cover" (~$30 delivered from Ebay), however cheaper stainless canisters with perspex-type see-through lids that would likely do just as good job.





(Note: the silicon hose is to prevent splashing and reduce/eliminate any chance of HSA, however to work best - so the hose sits close/ontop of the wort, it needs an elbow under the lid which is not shown in the picture above).

The hop-back has 2x perforated stainless inserts, the first/bottom one has 3 stainless bolts that act as a stand-off to keep the filter above the base and allow adequate space for it to drain without issue:




The second perforated stainless insert-filter sits ontop of the bolt-heads:


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## Wolfy (14/7/12)

For using hop-pellets, I first made and used a swiss-voile hop-back-bag:










But a better (and easier) solution, was a single-disk of swiss-voile sandwiched between the two filter plates:










Both the kettle kettle false bottom and hop-back actually work better when using more hops (especially whole hops).




3 kettle additions and 1 in the hop-back, each combining both whole hops and hop pellets:





Kettle filter doing it's job:





And the hop-back after use:




The second/swiss-voile layer, filtering the rest of the break and all the pellet hop-debris:





Leaving nice clear wort into the fermentor:


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## hsb (14/7/12)

Where did you source the perf stainless inserts? Buy a sheet and cut it?
Wort looks fantastic in the last shot, nice work.


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## Wolfy (14/7/12)

In another thread I got accused of not being a real brewer because I didn't use swiss-voile, so here is an AHB-only update:
*Update #21 Swiss-voile*

In keeping with the DIY aspect of this brewery build, with some guidance from SWMBO (she threaded the machine and provided basic instructions):





I made some a hop-back-bag:




and some hop-socks:





Both worked as intended, however, the additional hop-debris floating around in the kettle actually seems to allow it to filter _better_. In addition since they were sewed with thin nylon thread and are made from flimsy nylon swiss-voile, they didn't stand up to the washing machine:




... so it's unlikely they will feature in future brew days.

However the swiss-voile insert in the hop-back (previous post) worked very well and does not require using the sewing machine again, so I plan to continue with that approach.


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## Wolfy (14/7/12)

hsb said:


> Where did you source the perf stainless inserts? Buy a sheet and cut it?
> Wort looks fantastic in the last shot, nice work.


Yep, as per: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=917684
A single $47 500x500mm sheet of perforated stainless was cut/shaped (angle grinder + file) to filter the mash-tun, kettle and hop-back, paying someone else to do it, or having just the hop-back inserts made was prohibitively expensive.

2 out of the 3 brews (so far) have been surprisingly clear into the fermentor, hopefully with a few minor adjustments they'll all be that way. :icon_cheers:


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## Wolfy (15/7/12)

*Update #22 HERMS Build*
More details on blog

The HERMS unit was the single most time-consuming item of the entire new-brewery build. Not that it ended up being overly technical, difficult or even that special, just that it took so many different design-iterations and build attempts to actually make the bloody thing.

Trying to source the stainless-tube was the first complication. Geordi Stainless said multiple times (on the 'phone) that they had 6m lengths of 1/2 inch/12mm thin walled stainless tube in stock, unfortunately after driving there, they had sold it all (some time ago) and only had 1.2mm wall thickness. In addition, full 6m lengths of tube were not so easy to get home in the car:




While it was possible (just) to manually bend the 1.2mm wall-thickness tube (with a pipe-bender borrowed from *husky*) it proved to be an absolute bitch to bend around anything (such as a 4kg CO2 bottle) to shape it into a reasonably small size:




... so don't let anyone tell you that it's easy enough to do. 

After bitching at Geordi on the 'phone they referred me to another stainless dealer, in Dandenong, who did had an abundance of 12mm 0.9mm wall-thickness stainless tubing in stock, unfortunately it only came in 1.2m lengths (which they were happy to sell at scrap-metal prices):





The thinner walled tube was _much _easier to bed and work, the obvious and only problem being that multiple lengths would be needed to get a long enough continuous length for adequate heat-exchange.




So I tried _a few_ different ideas and concepts.














The coil-in-corny-keg is actually a good idea and should work well, the only issue being the relatively large volume of water that needs to be heated, resulting in a slower than optimal response time. It's possible I'll add a few fittings and use it (filled with ice-slurry) after the plate chiller to drop the wort 'instantly' out of the kettle down to lager-pitching temperatures - when the larger volume inside the cut-keg will actually be an advantage.

I was told it was impossible to manually bend stainless tube to fit inside a kettle, so I proved that theory wrong:




The problem being the inlet and outlet - since the coil was already as tight as it would go - it was difficult (but not impossible) to bend both ends up to the top which was the easiest design solution - so I concluded it was more effort than it was worth.

All that resulted in a HERMS design, but also _a bit_ of scrap-coiled-stainless (the 6m Geordi-length is still somewhere in the backyard under the long-winter grass, I'll have to find it before mowing the lawn come spring):


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## Wolfy (15/7/12)

*Update #23 HERMS Build*
Bla-bla blog rant

In the end the HERMS actually ended up being compact and fairly simple.

Four 1.2m lengths of 1/2 inch/12mm 0.9mm wall-thickness stainless pipe was bent into coils (two clockwise and two anticlockwise):





Op-Shop wine cooler for the housing:





BigW kettle-element installed in the bottom:




... with an abundance of silicon:





Also ground away the thread at the top of the cooler so that the lid would simply snap into place:




_(Hint: Don't use an angle-grinder to 'grind' thick plastic, it melts and burns like all **** when you get it on yourself)._

Only cordless kettles were available at BigW, KMart and Coles, but luckily the IEC-type power plug:




.. plugs straight into the back of the 'cordless' part of the BigW Abode kettle's element socket:


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## Wolfy (15/7/12)

Completed the enclosure passes the boil-test:




and leak test (no surprise given the quantity of silicon used):





Installed with fittings (PID probe slides into in the thermowell):




highly technical HERMS mount (pending brewery stand build):





Double-helix/coil fits inside the cooler:




affixed to the lid:





According to the PID can raise the mash temperature by about 1 degree C per minute, which is what was aimed for.
However the little brown pump has a flow rate of about 3L per min, which is likely a little slow to get a fast response from the grain-bed temperature. Since one of the little brown pumps has decided to stop working - after being used twice - it's likely it will be replaced by a 'decent' home-brew pump some time in the semi-near-future.




Wort is filtered by the perforated stainless false bottom, drains out of the bottom of the mash-tun, into the pump, is pumped into the HERMS coil (PID temperature probe is mounted at the HERMS-coil outlet) and back into the top of the mash-tun. By filling the mash-tun (from the bottom) from the HLT via the pump and HERMS, the pump is primed and everything is up-to-temperature by the time the mash is stirred.

Total cost ended up being _only _$4 for the cooler, another $4 for the lengths of stainless tube, and $7 for the BigW kettle ... plus fittings ... and _lots _of trial-attempt-tube.


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## Wolfy (19/7/12)

*Update #24 Wort Return*
Blog

The basics of the wort return are simply a stainless steel Ikea Stabil double-boiler inset and some stainless all-thread. By drilling a small hole in the top-lip of the keg, the wort return is held in place by the all-thread and the height adjusted with a wing-nut.




... however, it's taken a few batches to get 'right'.

Initially the silicon hose was run directly into the dish, but since the hose is slightly boyant it tended to float and didn't want to stay in place:





A small piece of stainless tube pushed into the end helped a little:





But if you've been reading all this thread (not sure anyone has!) you'll have noticed that I have an abundance of coiled 12mm (1/2 inch) stainless tube, and so the solution was obvious:




And after a 75min recirculated mash (even with 40% wheat) the wort return works well and the wort is nice and clear:





This video was taken just after mash-in, grain bill is 50% Pale Malt, 40% Wheat malt, 7% Munich Malt and 3% Crystal Malt (and some Rice Hulls):
http://youtu.be/zDU8t2917Iw
(I still don't know how to embed them here)

75mins later at mash-out:
http://youtu.be/ZVYtMfKgOtU

For small/single batches, the 1L volume is likely a little large and the return-dish is a little too deep, so I'll find a cheap shallow stainless bowl (discount store), drill a hole in the lip of the bowl and use that (instead of the double-boiler-insert) when mashing small grain-bills.


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## _HOME_BREW_WALLACE_ (19/7/12)

Nice work as always wolfy! With all that spare ss tube, have you considered fully hard-plumbing your rig?


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## andytork (19/7/12)

I do like that wort return , very nice work


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## Wolfy (19/7/12)

_WALLACE_ said:


> Nice work as always wolfy! With all that spare ss tube, have you considered fully hard-plumbing your rig?


It's a consideration, especially with a proper brew-stand, however even the _generic _'Double ferrule Tube Fitting' required to attach the stainless tube are quite expensive (I think).


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## WarmBeer (19/7/12)

Wolfy said:


> For small/single batches, the 1L volume is likely a little large and the return-dish is a little too deep, so I'll find a cheap shallow stainless bowl (discount store), drill a hole in the lip of the bowl and use that (instead of the double-boiler-insert) when mashing small grain-bills.



I've got a set of stainless steel measuring cups, like these:





I reckon one of these could be easily jury-rigged into replacing your bowl for the return dish, losing you no more than 1/4 to 1 cup of wort.


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## Wolfy (19/7/12)

WarmBeer said:


> I've got a set of stainless steel measuring cups, like these:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep, something like that would work well, I'll have to check for those in the cheapie-shops too. 

However, since I fly-sparge the container gets filled with water from the HLT so there is no loss of efficiency/wort, it's just that a shallower container would sit above the grain-bed more easily.


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## white.grant (19/7/12)

That wort return looks great.


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## hsb (19/7/12)

+1. I like the Wing Nut/Bolt through the Keg solution to adjusting the height.

One shortcoming of the Beerbelly ones is the height adjustment between main mash and sparge. The BB one rests on two O Rings, so you have to get your hand underneath and roll the O Rings on the SS tube, a hassle when full of hot sparge water/grain. I prefer the Wing Nut to my Marigolds.


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## Wolfy (7/8/12)

*Update #25 Kettle Volume Markings & PID Auto Tune*
Blog stuff.

In order to know how much wort is drained from the mash tun into the kettle, I added volume markings were added to the inside of the kettle.
The $3 Ebay-supplied 'Etching/Engraving Pen':





... did a good job to engrave the volume markings on the inside of the keggle:






The first few times used the PID was not very accurate, over-shooting - and then holding the temperature - 1 or 2 degrees above the set value. The instructions for auto-tuning the PID (as provided by SESTOS) were not very helpful:
"_First operate the Auto adjustment, press AT key 2 second, SV display blink AT, finally into PID control mode. Press the AT key 2 second to abandon Auto adjustment._"

Luckily the functionally of the uinit is so similar to the Auber PID that their detailed and easy to understand instructions can be used.
What those instructions made clear was:
By default auto-tune is not enabled.
To enable the auto-tune function one must enter the settings-menu and change the 'CtrL' setting (called 'At' by Auber) from 3 to 2.
Once this is done the PID will enter auto-tune mode where it will configure itself for the system.

Now that the auto-tune has been run, the PID holds the mash-temperature to within about 0.2 deg C of the set value - a much better result:


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## Wolfy (10/8/12)

*Update #26, Temperature calibration, pump and hose insulation*

I picked up a couple of mercury thermometers at Science Supplies so that I could calibrate the various thermometers and temperature probes through the brewery.




As it turned out the PID temperature probe was reading about 2degC above the actual temperature, the mash-tun's dial temperature probe was close enough to be accurate, and the TempMate and cheap digitial thermometers were within about 0.5degC at most temperatures measured.

Having fixed insulation on the silicon hoses was a nuisance, making them less flexible and harder to clean. These little velcro straps (usually used to tie computer/electrical cables) work well to hold the hose insulation in place, while also allowing it to be easily removed when required.





Cheap-little-brown-solar-pump decided to stop working mid-brew, _again_. This time I disassembled it and cleaned it well inside - likely something that should be done every brew - given the amount of crud inside especially inside and around the shaft and housing.




Luckily it worked again - either because it was cleaned or simply because it was allowed to cool down for 30 mins - because the other one doesn't work now (after just a couple of brews with it). While they are cheap, I'm starting to think they are not worth the trouble, and will need to upgrade to a more substantial and dedicated brewing pump soon.


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## Wolfy (22/9/12)

*Update #27: New HERMS vessel*
More details on blog here.

The plastic-cooler HERMS vessel worked OK, but didn't tolerate being (repeatedly) dropped on the floor, so while I was considering what to do about the HERMS container, Aldi had some stainless 'compost buckets' on special.





_(Local Aldi's still have lots of these in stock, $24 each, so I expect they'll be discounted soon)._

The trusty TCT hole-saw was used to make the hole in the base of the bucket for the element:





Since the element was a bit larger than the 32mm hole, it needed to be enlarged some:





A grinding-stone attached to the cordless drill, which made the process much quicker:





Element removed from our old kitchen kettle, once it was removed from the kettle-housing and the plastic trimmed down a little:





The gasket from the kettle-element was used to measure the hole and hold the element and mount in place:


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## Wolfy (22/9/12)

However, since the wall of the plastic-kettle was much thicker than the stainless bucket, an insert-gasket was made by cutting out a silicon baking tray:




I thought it might be amusing to keep the little LED light, but not sure it will serve much purpose and might remove it.

The installed element:





Leak testing:





... and checking that it all works when plugged into the PID:





And finally, with a couple of holes drilled into the lid, and lots of fiddling to get the HERMS-coil attached, in use with the old little brown solar pump:





It looks nicer then the old one, I might wrap it in left-over insulation, but leaving it like this might help the PID control the temperature a little more accurately, since the stainless bucket will act as a heat-sink to dissipate heat if the PID over-shoots.


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## jayahhdee (22/9/12)

That looks like a really nice option for a HERMS build, might check around and see if I can find one at Aldi.


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## Wolfy (6/10/12)

*Update #28: Kaixin Pumps*

Before I build the brew-stand I'm trialing using 2x Kaixin Pumps for the brewery setup.
As detailed here, Kaixin Pumps are 240v Food Grade Magnetic Drive Pumps. The advantage is they cost $30-40 (when purchased in bulk to save on shipping), but the disadvantage is they are not rated to work with 100degC liquids.

To recirculate the mash, the wort is drained from the mash-tun into the pump then through the HEX-coil and back into the mash (via the temperature probe): 





The second pump is use to fly-sparge from a single-level system, one pump to sparge water into the mash, and the other to drain the mash into the kettle:




(Should look better once I build the brew-stand, but as proof of concept it works fine).

After the boil (for beers with no 0min, hop-back hop additions) the wort is drained from the kettle into the into the pump and through the plate-cooler and into the fermentor:





After a 75min mash, and then draining the mash-tun slowly (approx 1L/min) the pump gets warm to touch, but has worked without problem so far. Each time the kettle has been drained (Kaixin pumps have only been used for 2 batches of beer so far), the pump has pumped the boiling wort without issue for long enough to fill the fermentor. The only issue is that the threaded inlet port is not sized as well as the outlet, so I cross-threaded the plastic thread with the stainless camlock on one of the pumps and so now I need to take some care to 'repair' the thread-malfunction.


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## Wolfy (6/10/12)

*Update #29: Control Box #2*
More details on Blog here.

The (free) plastic fuse-box was a little cramped - inside and out - having to position the PID and HLT controller on the sides of the box made it more difficult to use and and I couldn't work out any brew-stand-design that included that 'feature' in the design. So, I moved everything into a new steel-box:, using solder-less fittings, clips and plugs. The bigger box allowed for a neater and easier to use lay-out both inside and out.

*Note*: _Don't DIY 240V, it's dangerous and likely not legal where you live._

The first step was to make the cut-outs needed for the PID, HLT controller, LED-lights and switches:





From the inside:





Since I need to run 2x 2400W elements at the same time, but are limited to standard domestic 10A circuits with no RCD (Safety Switches), the Control Box has two circuits (left and right side of the box) - each connected to a different house-circuit - and the input connections run directly into the RCDs:





Then the power is split to two double-pole switches, one single throw switch for a pump on each circuit:





... one double throw (center-off) switch on each circuit that runs either a kettle-element or the PID/SSR (on one circuit) or the HLT-controller (on the other).
It's all quite logical and well spaced-out.





In use, while recirculating a step-mash:




The top-red-LED's indicate that both circuits are provided with power, one pump is switched on to recirculate the mash (bottom left), the PID is stepping the temperature up to 63C, and the HLT-controller is heating the sparge water.


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## Wolfy (6/10/12)

The DIY mash tun false-bottom works well, even when the mill-gap is set for a fine crush (0.8mm with rice hulls, 0.88mm no rice hulls).
However, the weight of the mash did deform the thinner perforated stainless where it rests on the center-drain stand-off.
To fix the problem I placed a washer above the stand-off and below the false-bottom so that the weight is spread over a wider area than just the edge of the stand-off:




(Looks like this when the mash-tun is drained ready for cleaning).


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## Dualhead (19/6/14)

Nice build man!! Do you mind sharing the name of that stainless supplier in Dandy? Im lookin at my own herm build come tax return time 
Cheers


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## Yob (19/6/14)

Wolfys sadly not on here much these days mate, but I'll try to find out for you..


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## Dualhead (22/6/14)

Cheers mate, if I can get a rig half as nice...


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## Yob (22/6/14)

Just noticed your location, you don't live far from him...


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## Yob (23/6/14)

I think he might be over seas at the moment, will get those details when he returns 

Cheers


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## technobabble66 (8/11/14)

Awesome build, wolfy. Brilliantly documented. 
Eagerly awaiting the final stage: building the Grand Brewstand! :lol:

Ps: mods, this should be pinned permanently into the gear section.


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## Yob (8/11/14)

Havnt seen Wolfy (sadly) on here at all over the last few months. (or much at all since the site changed hands/Rebuild)


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## technobabble66 (8/11/14)

Yeah, it's v sad to no longer see him on ahb - he's had some highly valuable input into this community over the years. 
How's his leg?
Tell the lazy boy to pull out his digit and finish this heroic saga!
Hope to see him at the Xmas swap, but I'm guessing he'll not venture out to idzy's.


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## Wolfy (21/2/15)

Yes it's about a year late (Yob is correct as usual), but the SS supplier in Dandenong is GEORGE ARCHER METAL: http://www.archermetals.com.au/ they were there last time I drove past.

Leg is healed as much as I presume it will get (I can walk fine now, just hurts some at times).
But have 4x bikes now (2 the motorized kind) so the statistics are not on my side.

Last time I brewed one of the KK elements decided not to work anymore, luckily the guys at KK replaced it without issue (but they were highly surprised that it was still warm when I took it back - was right in the middle of a brew day, what did they expect!).
Stand is finished, will take a photo next time I brew, but the DPDT ebay switches burned out last time I brewed, so need to re-wire the entire electric side of things - but the safety switches work well!


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## Cocko (21/2/15)

Welcome home.

\m/


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