# Ag Gear.... What Do I Need?



## pokolbinguy (21/3/07)

Hi all,

I know this has been covered a million times but I can't locate threads..... there is sooo many to search through.


What I would like to know is what equipment would I need to make the move from kits to AG? I know its a big jump but I would love to do it in the future... and It would be good to have a list of things I need to aquire and start collecting.

So if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

Cheers, Pok  :chug:


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## FNQ Bunyip (21/3/07)

Pok , this is the ezy way to start AG. JUST DO IT,,,, 

HTFU..

LINKY



:beer:


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## Steve (21/3/07)

pokolbinguy said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I know this has been covered a million times but I can't locate threads..... there is sooo many to search through.
> What I would like to know is what equipment would I need to make the move from kits to AG? I know its a big jump but I would love to do it in the future... and It would be good to have a list of things I need to aquire and start collecting.
> ...




Pok - have a read of this site: Go to the bottom of the first page for a step by step guide to an AG and it will show you roughly the basic equipment needed. Its so bloody easy. Join a brew club as I got all my gear from members who were willing to pass on their old equipment as very good prices (i.e. in exchange for beer)

http://cruisenews.net/brewing/infusion/

Cheers
Steve


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## Fents (21/3/07)

Mash tun - Can be an esky or a stainless keg or a pail bucket. Then u need the guts of the mash tun - either a False bottom or Stainless steel braid.

Kettle or Pot - 50 litre pot minimum in my opion. Can be smaller but that would be my preference.

Some food grade hose to transfer hot wort from vessel to vessel.

And you can opt for a HLT - to heat mash and sparge water in. I just use a 15litre pot on the stove but i will soon be buying a 30 litre urn. 

Thats about it


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## pint of lager (21/3/07)

Something to mash in - needs to keep temperature stable. An insulated bucket will do. An esky is nice.

Something to sparge through. You are aiming to hold the husks in a bed, they do the filtering, do not aim to filter the wort, that is what the husks do. Recirculate the first bit so there are no chunks. False bottom, braid, cheesecloth pegged over a bucket, all will work.

Something to boil in. A collection of pots on the stove will work. A kettle with a tap is better.
Heat source can be your stove, 3 ring burner, or element.

Something to cool the wort. Dunk the covered pots in tubs of water, keep changing the water. Use an immersion chiller. Use a nice counterflow chiller from Mashmaster. Use the "no chill" method but you will need to be particular about sanitation and hot racking.

A good thermometer is absolutely essential. 

These are not essential but will make the process easier. A mash paddle helps. Plenty of jugs. A spare fermenter. Scales to weigh hops. Scales to weigh grain.

Depends on how big a batch size you want to do, how deep your pockets are and how good you are at adapting found bits of gear.

For your first brew aim for a 1.050 og, 25 IBU's pale ale. This is a forgiving style that even if your og is higher or lower, the end result is a decent drop.


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## apd (21/3/07)

Or you can go the BIAB path:

Kettle (30L+, aluminium or stainless steel)
Gas burner (or use your stove top - you can add the burner later if required)
Bag (muslin, canvas, swiss voile)

Plus other odds and ends mentioned previously such as thermometer, jugs, etc.


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## Lukes (21/3/07)

Here's a bit of a look at the dark side.

*AG Brew Porn..*

Some rig's look like they were from the tip  , some great use of plastic and some are just crazy $$$$$.$$ 
Heaps of broken links. A few members from here on the site too.

hope it helps.

- Luke :beerbang:


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## PistolPatch (21/3/07)

Pok!

Still laughing at FNQBunyip's post. HTFU has recently become a QLD catch-cry! If you haven't heard of it, send Bunyip a PM and he'll explain it - it's pretty funny.

Anyway, Bunyip and apd got into AG using the BIAB link that Bunyip provided above. When you read that link, you'll see that I've had a fair bit to do with brewing in a bag and am quite passionate about seeing guys in your position at least start with this method because I have been in your position.

I read and read and got totally confused. Luckily, Ross invited me up to watch one of his traditional brews (by traditional I mean batch or fly-sparging, Ross batches) and then he came down to help me with my first. This two day process involved drinking a myriad of beers but luckily Ross took photos.

I ended up writing A Guide To Mashing And Batch Sparging It needs a re-write but I think as it is a distillation/combination of all the stuff I read and was taught it is well worth a read. Hate blowing my own trumpet as it's other people's wisdom and help that I'm passing on but I do know that a lot of guys found those notes of great help.

I have actually gone from the traditional method to brewing in a bag. I have several reasons for doing so that I'll list below. I'm going to have a crack at listing them in order. I'll try and list in order of importance but that will be hard as every brewer's requirements/expertise are different. You also have to bear in mind that I'm a bit of a perfectionist so if quality were an issue, you would find me writing essays in other areas of AG. Because of this, I'm listing quality first but of more interest to you I imagine (as these were things that worried/confused me when considering a move to AG) would be expense and knowledge - they're a bit further down.

1. Quality: I *know* can brew a beer of equivalent quality to a beer brewed traditionally. I've brewed some better ones as well. (I've also brewed some crap beers but not because of the method.) So far, and there has been many a beer brewed in a bag now (Bunyip and I have done at least 400 litres each probably more), no one has been able to detect a difference or unfavourable aspect of a beer that has been BIABed. I have always actively encouraged people to find faults. To date we have found none. Even in a side by side brew done followed by triangular testing, only one experienced could find a difference and the difference was equivalent not negative.

2. Equipment/Expense: To BIAB, you need a bag, burner, a kettle and a thermometer the latter being as important than the other two. With traditional, you need another two major vessels. These add cost and are not are not easy to control without even more cost . POL, who baby-sat me through my early AHB days, who always writes great posts and to whom I haven't written to or thanked in way too long, has listed that equipment above. This equipment, without extra expense, also makes it hard to control your mash in the first 25 minutes.

3. Knowledge: Even though the current BIAB guide is not written as well as it could be (for example, it talks about an 'escalator mash' which I don't think any of us have ever done - seemed a good idea at the time of writing though!) it has still got a lot more people over the fence into AG than the 'Mashing and Batch-Sparging Guide' has done. It allows you to concentrate on the essence of brewing without a quality loss.

4. New/Exciting: I like areas that are new and exciting. I love building stuff. I love electronics. I love gadgetry. This is a whole new world of BIAB that has not been explored yet. I have ideas but no space or workshop - spewing! There is so much that can be done here. In fact, the only guys I can think of that have gone from BIAB to traditional have done so for this reason (of these few, I know at least a couple that still incorporate the bag into their traditional brewing.) At the moment, BIAB is more manual than technical. I'm hoping that this will change.

5. Space/Cleaning: I brew in an apartment so space and cleaning are major considerations. Only wrote one sentence here but this is at least a third of brewing importance.

6. Brewery Output Increase: My needs of brewing ideally require me brewing 2 different beers every fortnight. If I buy one extra vessel, I can brew these 2 different beers on the same day using/cleaning all the same equipment (apart from one extra kettle) and only costing me an extra hour. Later I can rack/filter/keg at the same time. In other words, the above advantages repercuss. This is a huge bonus and I probably should have put it second on the list.

7. Brewing Variations: One last thing that excites me about BIAB is that with a little engunuity, anyone can explore easily the differences in mashing temperature regimes. While this is unimportant to anyone starting AG, it's an area that I find fascinating now and am sure, will do so even more in days to come.

Well Pok, that's probably my longest and most coherent post in at least a month. I've been very tired lately and posting poorly. Hope this one makes up for it. Has anyone even read this far?

LOL
Pat


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## PistolPatch (21/3/07)

Whoops!

Forgot my major point....

I think that advising people to BIAB their way into AG (maybe even stay with it) is very good advice and should be actively encouraged but...

What I forgot to ask is, 'Are there any reasons why we shouldn't encourage it?'

I'm always open for criticism or limitations of BIAB to be listed. It's important. The only one we have come up with so far is if you wanted to brew a double-batch. The weight of the bag would test Atlas himself!

Spot,
Pat


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## Keifer (21/3/07)

Definitely much info on how to AG here, just take some time to read as it defo pays in the end.

www.howtobrew.com is an excellant source if you don't mind the american version. Just read it a couple of times to make sure all the steps sink in and you'll be right.

Only other point i'd like to make is if your going to use your gear for a long time (like me im only 25 and plan to use it for ages) then go as much stainless steel as possible coz it will pay off in the long run.

Let us know how you go.


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## Aaron (22/3/07)

PistolPatch said:


> Whoops!
> 
> Forgot my major point....
> 
> ...


One good reason is that compared to other forms of brewing it very much unproven. Now please let me preface this by saying I have nothing against this method. To be honest I know bugger all about it so won't criticise the technique it's self.

I think it's great that people are trying something new. However, I don't think it's the best idea to recommend something that is new and untested, when compared to other methods, to new brewers who need as much information and coaching as they can get. It is much easier for them to find information and documentation on other methods. It is easier for them to get advice on other methods.

One day Brewing in a bag may be mature enough for new brewers but right now I think it is best to recommend something tried and tested to the beginner.


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## FNQ Bunyip (22/3/07)

Aaron said:


> One good reason is that compared to other forms of brewing it very much unproven. Now please let me preface this by saying I have nothing against this method. To be honest I know bugger all about it so won't criticise the technique it's self.
> 
> I think it's great that people are trying something new. However, I don't think it's the best idea to recommend something that is new and untested, when compared to other methods, to new brewers who need as much information and coaching as they can get. It is much easier for them to find information and documentation on other methods. It is easier for them to get advice on other methods.
> 
> One day Brewing in a bag may be mature enough for new brewers but right now I think it is best to recommend something tried and tested to the beginner.




Aron , As Pat has said this BIAB method has got more new brewers brewing AG *sooner *than the traditional 3 vessel method. Its Not unproven , as there are plenty of us doing it and we'er all prepared to help/show /suport anyone new that wants to get going with AG BIABing. For myself and a few others we would still be dreaming of setting up a 3 vessle brewery and drinking KK if it was'nt for the BIAB and the suport of other BIAB'ers.

Biab is a great starting point because even if you only do it that way 2 or 3 brews you will understand the whole brewing procedure and process much more clearly than setting up a 3 vessel system and trying your first brew on that. As mentioned by plenty of others you can read all you like but the more you read the more confusing it can get. If you've read anought to want to go AG but feel daunted by the whole thing garb a bag and chuck a brew on , then come back and read more as then you will have first hand experiance and questions that are ezyly ansered. 


Aron , My first instinct on reading your post was to flame you with foul language , I've refrained . 

:beer:


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## Fents (22/3/07)

I think BIAB has been fairly tested...not by me.

I just dont like how its get pimped onto to every new brewer.

Give them a choice..

Normal 3 Vessel mash Method
or
BIAB

Let them decide what they want to do. If they say Normal way then good let the "normal" guys give em advice.

If they choose BIAB let PP do his thing.

Just seems to me like everyones getting PUSHED into BIAB with massive posts.


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## bayWeiss (22/3/07)

pokolbinguy said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I know this has been covered a million times but I can't locate threads..... there is sooo many to search through.
> What I would like to know is what equipment would I need to make the move from kits to AG? I know its a big jump but I would love to do it in the future... and It would be good to have a list of things I need to aquire and start collecting.
> ...



I am not sure what Australians mean by "kits", but if it is the same thing as extract brewing... then I can tell you what you need extra. I assume you have your boiling pot, and a thermometer, and all of the normal brewing accesories already.

It is deadly simple, and did not cost me more than about 15 - 20 Euro. I get 80%+ efficiency with it. Follow the step links below for more information.

Step 1. Use this container to mash, then batch sparge






Step 2. Siphon the wort into a container/kettle (I am draining into the fermenter, but it will end up in the kettle)





If your kettle is not big enough to boil your whole volume (like mine), then you can split the batch into multiple boils, hence this is the reason I was not draining the wort into the kettle.

To batch sparge, follow this link... Batch Sparging Method
To BIAB, look no further than this board... you will not need a cooler for BIAB, just a big bag and your big kettle, and some sort of device to prevent the bag from touching the bottom of the kettle.

I have not done BIAB, but it seems like there is minimal water/volume calculation to be done while doing it (which is nice)... heck, you do not even need to perform much water/volume calculations with batch sparge either... BUT, efficiency and other things can suffer as a result. 

At the end of the day, you will make beer, no matter how you sparge.


cheers!


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## kook (22/3/07)

FNQ Bunyip said:


> Biab is a great starting point because even if you only do it that way 2 or 3 brews you will understand the whole brewing procedure and process much more clearly than setting up a 3 vessel system and trying your first brew on that.



Let me start by saying I have nothing against BIAB, and I've tried the results of it and cannot see any major flaws.

I simply don't understand how you gain a better understanding of brewing using BIAB over a traditional brewery system though? I'm interested to hear why it somehow gives you a better insight into brewing? What does it teach you about sparging? How does it help you to understand the difference between the gravity and flavour of wort at the start and end of runnings? How about the differences in heat retention and fermentability based on liquor/grist ratio?

Whilst I beleive BIAB is a great, simple to use solution for a new brewer just wanting to get their feet wet and try AG brewing, I don't think it is a better way to learn about brewing compared to a traditional system.


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## Fents (22/3/07)

i agree 110% kook


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## Aaron (22/3/07)

FNQ Bunyip said:


> Aron , As Pat has said this BIAB method has got more new brewers brewing AG *sooner *than the traditional 3 vessel method. Its Not unproven , as there are plenty of us doing it and we'er all prepared to help/show /suport anyone new that wants to get going with AG BIABing. For myself and a few others we would still be dreaming of setting up a 3 vessle brewery and drinking KK if it was'nt for the BIAB and the suport of other BIAB'ers.
> 
> Biab is a great starting point because even if you only do it that way 2 or 3 brews you will understand the whole brewing procedure and process much more clearly than setting up a 3 vessel system and trying your first brew on that. As mentioned by plenty of others you can read all you like but the more you read the more confusing it can get. If you've read anought to want to go AG but feel daunted by the whole thing garb a bag and chuck a brew on , then come back and read more as then you will have first hand experiance and questions that are ezyly ansered.
> Aron , My first instinct on reading your post was to flame you with foul language , I've refrained .
> ...


I'm not sure why you wanted to flame me. Pat asked for comments and I gave him mine. There was not any attack of anyone or anything in my comments. My comments are what I think and that is all. If you read my comments, all of them talk about this method in relation to traditional methods. Brewing in a bag has nowhere near the volume of people involved or available documentation that traditional methods have. Nor does it have anywhere near the number of people expert in it to help people.

As I said the first time I wouldn't know if it is actually a good way to make beer. I am of the opinion that until it matures further it may not be the best method for new brewers. By all means do the work and the experimentation to develop it. It is good that people are trying new things. My opinion is that new brewers are better served not working with new methods and are better with methods that have been in use for a long time.


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## Morrie0069 (22/3/07)

OK, with my limited brewing experience, I really can't say if one method is better than another. I can say though, that the BIAB method gave me the ability to jump into AG without needing to worry about all the other equipment that I might need. I know people can put together a traditional system on the cheap, but this can take time, so when you are desperately wanting to do an AG brew and see what all the fuss is about, you don't really care which method you use, just that you can do it now! Adjustments to your equipment and methods can be done further down the track - the important factor is that you are making beer :beer: This means using what you already have lying around as well as other bits you can acquire quickly and cheaply - I had to go and buy some fabric to make a bag out of, but that was basically it - I had a pot (somewhat small, so I had to do 2 boils), an eski and a stove. I basically took the BIAB approach, but did the mash in the eski in the bag and the boil in the pot. Have a look at what you already own and can use to make AG. Look at all methods that people use and try to work out which one you can do the quickest and cheapest, unless money is no object, then you can buy whatever you need. 

Take the plunge ASAP - but be warned, once you have made beer from scratch, you will never want to go back to anything else. I cracked open a stubbie last night of my 6th ever brew, a CPA, which I did last year, it tasted better than I remember, but the aroma and twang just meant I couldn't finish it! Unfortunately, I've been short of time lately, so haven't been able to brew, which also means I have 4 empty kegs! Had to grab a couple of CPA kits, which I'll add a few hops to for a quick result until I can do some more AG!

Happy Brewing

Morrie :beerbang:


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## pint of lager (22/3/07)

Everyone has forgotten the humble zapap bucket in bucket mashtun setup. Cheap, easy and works.

Another easy mash/sparge is buy some cheesecloth, peg it over a spare fermenter bucket and make some sort of standoff from rolled up wire mesh so that the space underneath the cheesecloth stands off the bottom of the bucket, otherwise the tap is blocked. You want a freespace of a few cm under the cheesecloth. Muslin or flyscreen will work too.

Mash in any insulated vessel, or mash in the bucket with plenty of insulation. Bubblewrap is cheap, use a few layers and also insulate under the bucket.

The critical point is maintaining the correct mash temp, especially in that critical first 30 mins of mashing.

All cobbled up systems work, just not as efficiently or as easily as the person with all ss gear with pumps.


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## Zizzle (29/3/07)

I dug up and old post of mine from a similar thread:

I've just started BIABing and my setup cost about $150.

Breakdown:
$100 - 60ltr ally pot delivered (see allquip or kenscom online)
$18 - two electric jugs from the warehouse
$15 - brass tap from bunnings
$6 - material for the bag

AG beer & a world of new tastes - priceless.


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## tangent (29/3/07)

> Everyone has forgotten the humble zapap bucket in bucket mashtun setup.


i've always said it's basically free and easy

some people have a drill, some people have a sewing machine, some people have an esky and some pots. whatever works for the individual.


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## pokolbinguy (15/8/07)

Hey all,

Has been a while since this thread was touched and I have a new question.

I have acquired a steel keg (looks like its made from SS on the inside, and has a metal outer skin??). 

Anyway I was wondering if this would be a suitable option to use as either a kettle or HLT???

Any thoughts? Ways I should modify it?

Would hold approx 50-60 L easily I assume. I am a little concerned about the rust on the outside however a quick hit with a steel brush coul fix that??


Photos below.

Cheers, Pok


Front




Top



Tap


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## snagler (15/8/07)

Have you got a 4 to 5 inch angle grinder pokobinguy? If you have go to the hardware store and buy one or two of those new stainless steel ultra thin cutting discs (only $3 each) and cut a big hole in the top. Before you cut find an old frying pan lid that will serve as a lid and cut to that size.
You know that in the interim you can use that vessell as your HLT and Kettle. 
I use a three ring burner with a grain and grape variable regulator/hose ($40). Plenty of power for my 30 litre batches, often only running two rings once boiling.
I am currently useing a cheap 35 litre rectangular esky with a manifold made from 1/2 inch copper tube slotted with the angle grinder disc previously mentioned (like palmers in "how to brew"). I am consistently getting above 80% efficiency with this mush tun.

Good luck mate, who know we might cross paths some day - me being from Maitland :beer:


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## Thirsty Boy (15/8/07)

That one looks like an old kildakin.. the outside is just a protective layer and really wont make too much difference to whats goingon on the inside. Make it pretty if you want though 

I vote for using it as a kettle. If you are planning on using kegs as teh basis for your system... then you wont find too many that are bigger than 50l. I reckon you want your kettle bigger than your HLT, so get another normal keg for HLT and use the bigger one for the kettle.

If you are willing to pony up the cash for a proper pot as your next vessel though, then I say use it as a HLT and use the actual pot as your kettle.

I will however add my voice to the brigade that is suggesting BIAB. I brew using both BIAB and a traditional 3 vessel system. Heres why I suggest that you go BIAB.. for now at least.

You already have 75% of what you need. The Keg as your kettle. All you need is a burner and $10.00 for bag material and you are basically there.

You could already be brewing your first AG batches when otherwise you might still be looking around for the "other" two vessels.

If after a few brews, you decide you would rather go traditional, you have probably only spent $10.00 that you wouldn't be spending anyway, so its a no-lose proposition

You can "learn on the fly" IMHO the BIAB technique is so much less complicated than a trad brew, that it gets you going, brewing and learning from experience very quickly. You can brush up on theory and different techniques, while you are drinking your first brews.

*As I said, I brew both ways... and I will basically never recommend that someone "enter" the realm of AG brewing via a 3 vessel system again. I simply feel that BIAB is a MUCH more appropriate technique for begginers.*

And if you want more... then you move on with virtually no disadvantage, having gained a bit of knowledge on the way.

Either way, that keg is a great score. Good luck.

Thirsty


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## pokolbinguy (8/9/07)

pokolbinguy said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Has been a while since this thread was touched and I have a new question.
> 
> ...





Ok So I have finally found a little bit of time to play with this Keg. And I want to strip all the paint etc off the outside and then paint it.

Now my questions are:

whats the best way to remove the paint / rust etc? I hit it with a wire brush that you use in a drill, same as this ...




while it took nicely to removing the rust etc it didnt really work to well on the old yellow paint. What would be the best method? paint stripper???

Now I was thinking of painting a layer of "kill rust" on her and then painting her a nice red colour or something along those line. Something that looks nice and pretty. What sought of paint should I use, or steer clear off figuring that it will be exposed to heat from being used as a kettle???

On the note of my mash tun I am going to convert a chest eskie and go down that route.


Thanks again folks..... AG will be here soon... Hopefully.... and yes I know I can go BIAB etc etc but I like doing things the whole hog..... and anyway I want new shiny toys!!

Po :beer: k


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## warra48 (8/9/07)

The "kill rust" works best if there is a fine layer of rust left, as it works by chemically converting the rust on the metal.
Once you have done that, you might think about using roof paint. It's designed to be used on metal. Have a look at the can when you buy it whether or not you need a metal primer, or whether you can paint it straight on after the "kill rust" has done its work.
Good luck.


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## Wardhog (8/9/07)

A bigass pot - 80L ally from allquip




Small child to go in the pot optional.


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## tangent (8/9/07)

if you truss that child with butchers string he should fit in the pot better 

good score! i've never seen a double skin keg before.
you could use engine paint on the outer surface. it handles higher heat than a roof paint is designed for.


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## Thirsty Boy (8/9/07)

I think Tangent has raised a valid point there... (about the paint AND the child)

Hows paint going to go when you stick fire under that puppy?? Engine paint will be fine if you heat it with an electric element... but if you are using a gas burner ???

If you can paint it ... I'd love to know what with. 'Cause my Kettle is a manky looking old keg and I'd like to spruce it up a little.

Eski and braid systems work fantastically. If you've decided to go down that route, its a little more trouble than BIAB... but hell, you also get to play with more stuff and thats no bad thing.

Good luck, have fun. You WILL make great beer

Cheers

Thirsty


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## pokolbinguy (8/9/07)

Thirsty Boy said:


> I think Tangent has raised a valid point there... (about the paint AND the child)
> 
> Hows paint going to go when you stick fire under that puppy?? Engine paint will be fine if you heat it with an electric element... but if you are using a gas burner ???
> 
> ...




Roof paint sounds like a good option.... should be cheap and readily available in lots of colours...

Also there shouldnt be any direct heat to the paint really if I use a gas burner as the base is part of the inner SS keg




Thanks for the help folks, greatly appreciated,

Cheers, Pok :chug:


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## Thirsty Boy (9/9/07)

Cool,

let us know if the paint stays attached to the hotter bits. If it does, I will be arranging for a nice fire engine red boil kettle.... maybe with pinstripes.


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## domonsura (9/9/07)

Engine/enginebay/exhaust paint. There used to be this stuff called VHT paint for exhausts, and that was supposed to handle up 1500 degrees(I think from memory) ......might be a bit more appropriate than roof paint, and you can buy it in little spray aerosol cans....


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## tangent (9/9/07)

i can see a new thread developing
Show me your custom kettle paint job.


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## microbe (9/9/07)

tangent said:


> i can see a new thread developing
> Show me your custom kettle paint job.


Or maybe a new TV show - "Pimp My Kettle" ??!! :lol: 

cheers,

microbe


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## Rudy (9/9/07)

VHT (Very High Temp!) exhaust manifold paint is still available, 1500 deg F. They also make brake caliper and engine block paints, in aerosol. Never thought about using it in my brewery thought


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## pokolbinguy (9/9/07)

Rudy said:


> VHT (Very High Temp!) exhaust manifold paint is still available, 1500 deg F. They also make brake caliper and engine block paints, in aerosol. Never thought about using it in my brewery thought




Is it expensive? And where is the best place to source it?


Pok


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## pokolbinguy (6/10/07)

Ok.... Hole got cut thanks to MHB and also 2000W (something like that) heating element installed.

I have now painted with Kill rust to stop rust and also be a undercoat. Will eventually paint fire engine red.

For the moment she looks like this:





After Kill rust painted on... looks better already 




New hole it top thanks for MHB, glass lid fits perfectly 




Heating Element installed..also thanks to MHB




Element plug


So the Kettle is coming along well.

Pok


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## pokolbinguy (11/10/07)

I'm thinking about getting my hands on a pump to move the liquids from vessel to vessel instead of relying on gravity. 

Would something like the following be appropriate?

pump

Cheers, Pok


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## Cortez The Killer (11/10/07)

link don't work for me

cheers


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## pokolbinguy (11/10/07)

No idea why the link won't work... but if you search ebay for "hot water pump" its the first one... for $99 

details are: (taken straight from ebay)

HOT WATER CIRCULATOR PUMP W/3-SPEED, 240 VOLT (NEW)
*the circulator pump (with cast iron body) is specifically designed for hot water or heating circulators, the pump increases the pressure so that the required pressure is available at showers, taps etc for domestic central heating systems, the pump is used in open systems and can be connected directly to the water main, it has three speeds control, high delivery rates at the low installed power rating, reliable, economical and quiet to use, suitable for domestic, industrial circulation, including heating water, cooling water, air condition circulation systems etc,
*manual 3-speed control
*motor: 93w/240v/single phase
*max. flow: 40L/min
*max. head lift: 6M
*connection: 25mm (1")
*fluid temperature range: -10C to +110C
*max. ambient temperature: 55C
*max. static pressure: 147psi (10bar)
*shipping weight: 5kgs


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## Yeasty (11/10/07)

I wouldnt trust anything that isnt food grade


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## domonsura (11/10/07)

I don't reckon I'd go there Pok. Get yourself a March and save yourself all the wondering about whether it'll be ok or not. It's only another $100. Worth every penny.


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## pokolbinguy (11/10/07)

domonsura said:


> I don't reckon I'd go there Pok. Get yourself a March and save yourself all the wondering about whether it'll be ok or not. It's only another $100. Worth every penny.



any suggestions where to buy from?

Cheers, Pok


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## domonsura (11/10/07)

sent you a pm about the thread pok.


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## pokolbinguy (14/10/07)

Ok I have acquired a keg (approx 40/50L I assume.... will have to measure) that I am planning to use for my HLT ..... so slowly getting there.

This is what she looks like....











Only draw back that I can see is the large hole in the top... it is a pretty rough cut so will need some filing / grinding. 

Has a thread already installed so that is a big bonus... just need to get an element installed...and maybe a custom red paint job to match the Kettle.

Any suggestions?

Pok


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## Yeasty (14/10/07)

use it as a kettle? i dont think u need a lid on the kettle...


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## pokolbinguy (14/10/07)

Yeasty said:


> use it as a kettle? i dont think u need a lid on the kettle...




So you reckon use the bigger keg as a HLT and the smaller as the Kettle? ... I was thinking the other way around so I can do bigger batches. Tun is 60 L, kettle atm (if I use the big sucker thats previously shown in this thread) around 60/70L... (guess) and HLT (using the smaller one) around 40/50 L (guess)

OR do I look for a bigger keg to use and have all 3 around the 60 L mark?

Pok


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## pokolbinguy (17/10/07)

So this is where I have progressed to:

*The Kettle:*

Hole cut thanks to MHB and also element fitted. Has been painted with kill rust and will get a new paint job hopefully sooner than later. Will be bright red.




*The HLT:*

Currently no work has been done on this vessel... however it came with a 3/4" thread already installed and a hole cut in the top... just need to clean it up a bit.

Will either install one or two kettle elements in it or another element the same as the kettle.





*The Mash Tun:*

As Shown in another thread (the ebay thread I think) I purchased this cooler to make into my mash tun (ebay link)




After a removing the base plate the plumbing of the cooler was easily removed. It originally had plastic hosing but that was easy to removed. I also replaced the plastic "sink" hole in the bottom of the cooler with a SS one from the local boating suppliers. 

I will replace the plastic hosing with either stainless pipe or braided hose and place a ball valve on the outside.

Just have to add a false bottom... will be one of these, that I will modify by taking the fitting off the middle and plan on drilling a hole in the bottom of the cooler to allow the false bottom to be fixed in place and easily removed. 





Things are slowly coming along. The wish list now includes:

- March pump or similar
- False Bottom
- Taps and hoses
- Mash Master Temp Controller
- Filter cartridge for the filter housing etc I bought... going to get a 1 micron absolute and a 2 micron as it is a twin chamber housing


Cheers, Pok


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## pokolbinguy (21/10/07)

Waa Hoooo...

Got myself a new fermenting fridge.... bit of a story to it....

as some may know I was trying to get rid of my old fridge that didnt work.... ended up selling it on ebay for a whole $0.99.... turned out the guy was taking it for scrap metal... so on that note we loaded his trailer up with a huge load of crap... he was happy as larry... and I now have one much cleaner back yard.

The new fridge came from ebay... a whole $5.00....

Cleaned her this morning and put the fridgemate on... all ready for brewing 








All coming along quite nicely.



Pok


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## pokolbinguy (30/11/07)

AG setup is slowly coming along, the following additions have been made:

Brew Bench:




Materials came from Bunnings and turned out a great way to build it. Easy and great for future modification and also for additions. Made it really easy to fit sink, peg board and filter. Slotted angle, nuts and bolts etc cost about $170.




Grabbed this sink from the local tip recyclers, including the sheet of stainless covering it in the first pic for a whole $20. Added a tap mixer that used to be in the kitchen, and with a nice white paint job to the tap looks the goods.

Also added the peg board to make some hanging space for brewing tools etc.




Was originally going to use this filter to filter my beer, but turned out to be useless so it will be used to filter the cold water. This should mean the water used will be super clean 


Personally I think it seems to be coming along well. Just need to work out what to do with my mash tun, which at the moment is destined to be on the ground as it has wheels...however this brings up the issue of lautering. I could potenitally add a chaise (return) to the bench which would be pretty simple but seeing the tun is on wheels would be great to be able to have in on the ground.

Cheers, Pok


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## sid (1/12/07)

Good to see all your picture's of your set up for AG, I'm picking up a 50ltr keg this weekend, so it's giving me some ideas. I need to see my mate who's an engineer and with any luck version 1 will be started.


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## troydo (19/12/07)

hey pokolbinguy, have you tried that esky yet? i was looking at buying one... how much did you pay? i have found a few on ebay.


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## pokolbinguy (20/12/07)

Troydo said:


> hey pokolbinguy, have you tried that esky yet? i was looking at buying one... how much did you pay? i have found a few on ebay.




I haven't used it yet, cost me around $130 delieverd from memory. I bought it off Ebay. Postage was the killer...i think the cooler itself was about $69.

I think "Craigm" bought one aswell, maybe hit him up for some info.

Cheers, Pok

(In Malaysia atm)


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## craig maher (20/12/07)

pokolbinguy said:


> I haven't used it yet, cost me around $130 delieverd from memory. I bought it off Ebay. Postage was the killer...i think the cooler itself was about $69.
> 
> I think "Craigm" bought one aswell, maybe hit him up for some info.
> 
> ...



Mine cost $89 plus postage - like Pok postage was high to NSW.
The seller was Buys-online Big Chilli Coolers.

Cheers,

Craig


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## troydo (20/12/07)

i saw one for 99 or 129 or something plus postage... 

How have you found it as a mash tun craig?

Also it seems big chillie have removed all their eskies from ebay since yesterday...


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## craig maher (20/12/07)

Troydo said:


> i saw one for 99 or 129 or something plus postage...
> 
> How have you found it as a mash tun craig?
> 
> Also it seems big chillie have removed all their eskies from ebay since yesterday...



I have not used it as yet - still using the old rubbermaid cooler atm.
Hope to have it all complete for the maiden mash over the Xmas break <_< 
Before Big Chilli the lowest I had seen them was $129 - I think that seller was Flatworld.
Not sure why Big Chilli have removed their listings - I had no dramas with them.

Cheers,

Craig


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## pokolbinguy (28/3/08)

What type of taps should I buy for my setup.

SS fittings are way to expensive. I know there is issues with Brass....but what if they are plated?

Comments, words of wisdom...

Cheers, Pok


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## mika (28/3/08)

$35 a tap for 3 taps ? Wouldn't have thought that was real bad, it is a lifetime system.

Brass is OK, the amount of lead is negligible. Nickel plated brass will probably wear off over time anyway and you'll be back to brass.


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## pokolbinguy (28/3/08)

mika said:


> $35 a tap for 3 taps ? Wouldn't have thought that was real bad, it is a lifetime system.
> 
> Brass is OK, the amount of lead is negligible. Nickel plated brass will probably wear off over time anyway and you'll be back to brass.




You have a point there. Only buy them once.

Other think though is I will need quite a few taps in my march pump setup.... so the cost will go up with that as I will need another 3 or 4.

Cheers, Pok


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## reg (28/3/08)

Try this link www.geordi.com.au/Products39d.html

I used them, minimum order of $30
Postage $10.
They specialise in Stainless fittings
Three piece 1/2 inch ball valve for $26 plus tax.

Great investment for your brewery and can be pulled apart to be cleaned.
I am in the process of setting up a 3 keg AG set up.

Good luck and I look forward to seeing pics of the final set up and your first brew..

Reg
P.S if link doesnt work just cut and paste into browser
I havent quite mastered the link thing yet


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## pokolbinguy (28/3/08)

Cheers, 

To insert a link the "insert link" button above the reply box.

Cheers, Pok


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## pokolbinguy (17/6/08)

So a few things have been done to my AG setup lately. I have put (or will soon anyway) put the photos in the Gallery for the sake of flowing on from the following photos etc in this thread here is some more.
*
Brew Stand:*

I rearranged things a little as I figured I should use the sheet of SS that i scored as a bench to give me some space to work with and will have to now make a stand for my kettle but that will be nice and easy. I have also run plumbing around the stand so I can have access to water at both ends.




*Mash Tun:*

Installed my MashMaster weldless thermometer and drilled a new hole for the ball valve as I wanted it at the from and just covered the other hole back up with the flug that was in it when I bought it. Only thing left to do is it run some hose from the drain to the valve (I will put a pic up later so this makes sense)





*HLT:*

Ripped the element out of a cheap coles kettle and mounted that in the wall of my HLT. The temp probe for my MashMate will go through the threaded hole that was already in the wall and I have made a new drain in the bottom allowing me to drain the entire contents on the HLT. I just used a skin fitting (boating suppies) for the drain like I did on the tun.





Kettle:

Finally the kettle has recieved its long awaited coat of fire engine red paint and when dry I will take a photo of it finished. I am thinking of making a new stand for the kettle an installing a drain in the bottom like my HLT so I can drain everything out, the current valves is too high.





Cheers, Pok


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## pokolbinguy (18/6/08)

Here is the Kettle now painted. Now to make a stand so I can put a drain in the bottom.

From This:



To This: 



Pok


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## GMK (18/6/08)

POK,

Can you giv emore info on the skin fitting from the boating supplies - eg does it have hole sin it and if so what size are they...

Any chance of some pics of just the skin fitting...

Thanks

Ken...


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## pokolbinguy (18/6/08)

GMK said:


> POK,
> 
> Can you giv emore info on the skin fitting from the boating supplies - eg does it have hole sin it and if so what size are they...
> 
> ...



GMK the skin fittings I used are 1/2". Can take some photos if you want but will have to pull it apart. For the moment you can find info here. 

Cost me $17.95.....a bloody arm and a leg!!!!

The skin fitting is hollow with a flange at the top (with a o-ring below.....although the second one was missing the o-ring...not happy!!!). Hope this makes sense.

If you want to know anything else just let me know.

Cheers, Pok


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## Doogiechap (19/6/08)

GMK said:


> POK,
> 
> Can you giv emore info on the skin fitting from the boating supplies - eg does it have hole sin it and if so what size are they...
> 
> ...


G'day Kenny,
Here are a couple of piccy's of my skin fitting before I mounted it in my mash tun.
Cheers
Doug


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## GMK (19/6/08)

Thanks Guys 

What is the False bottom you are using in the mash tun POK.

Can you also give some pics of that.


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## pokolbinguy (19/6/08)

GMK said:


> Thanks Guys
> 
> What is the False bottom you are using in the mash tun POK.
> 
> Can you also give some pics of that.



GMK. The false bottom is a normal SS circular one, I bought it from Gryphon Brewing in W.A. Gryphon (Ross stocks them normally as well Craftbrewer). 

Seeing as my tun has a drain in the bottom I just drilled a hole in the bottom of the tun and put a SS bolt in from underneath which I locked of with a nut and washer...the bolt then goes through the false bottom and I used a washer and nut to keep the false bottom in place (hope this makes sense). I was thinking of replacing the top nut with a wing nut to make it easier to remove.




Pok


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## pokolbinguy (7/7/08)

A bit of an update. 

I got my camlocks, hosing and mounted my march pump. Finally finished my mash tun so now all I have to do is seal and tighten all the piping joins and get my hands on the electrical fittings. So getting closer 



I added and extra sheet of peg board, I will mount the control box on this and also hang any other tools etc on it I need while brewing.



March pump installed with hosing and camlocks






Hosing on the inside of the mash tun. Now finished 

Cheers, Pok

NOTE: More photos can be found in my Album


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## WitWonder (8/7/08)

Jeez Pok, at the end of all this the only thing left to do will be the easy part - learning to brew 


Looks good though!! :beer:


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## pokolbinguy (8/7/08)

WitWonder said:


> Jeez Pok, at the end of all this the only thing left to do will be the easy part - learning to brew
> Looks good though!! :beer:



Yep thats deffinatley on the agenda  Lets hope I dont try it and go "well that was a waste of time"  

Pok


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## pokolbinguy (3/9/08)

So finally got the brew stand into the garage and got to mounting my control box on the wall and installing the hosing for my HLT.

All that is left to do now is to install some switches in the control box for the HLT and March Pump, Put a 15 Amp outlet on our power board and buy some extension leads. Then its brew time. Hopefully buy that gear this week or next and get the ball rolling by the end of the month. (fingers crossed)

Anyway here is some pics.

Control box mounted on wall with HLT controller mounted (not wired up yet)



Power "Inlet" this will be fed by an extension lead from a outlet in the garage.



In addition to the outlet on the front (which will be used for a light or something small....just a spare outlet) these outlets are for the HLT and March Pump



Hose installed on the outlet/tap of the HLT. All ready to go . Actually just got to make a lid of some description.



Cheers, Pok

P.S. Has only taken over 12 months


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## pokolbinguy (25/9/08)

Alrighty.

Switches mounted into the control box finally.

Now just to get my leco mate to check my wiring and make a pickup tube for my kettle and its brew time 




Pok


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## pokolbinguy (10/9/09)

G'day folks,

Well the Pokolbing Brew Haus had to stay in Pokolbin when I moved down to Adelaide (1600kms away) so a couple of uni mates and I are piecing together a basic brew rig to get back into AG while we are here and I thought I would post the rig etc in this thread so if anyone else is keen to do similar they can have a look.

Scored some cheap mayo style buckets up today from the local fish and chips shop ($4ea with lids) and quickly went to work on them...I now have a mash tun....just have to drill a hole to put a hose through and put a valve on the hose..simple as!!

At the moment this is how far I have gotten:

Dilling holes in the bottom of one of the buckets. This bucket sits inside the other instead of using a "false bottom"





I bought a cheap ($5.99) camping mat from "Sam's Warehouse"...cut to size and "duct" taped around the buckets and lid





Sitting nicely inside each other..



Now just for the hose. Will do the same idea as Grain and grape do in this pic...




I'll let you all know how it goes. Should do the job nicely I think 

Total cost should be around the $20 mark or less.

Cheers, Pok


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## eric8 (10/9/09)

Nice work Pok, good to see you are keeping with the AG down south. You knocked this AG gear up quicker than your rig at home


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## pokolbinguy (10/9/09)

eric8 said:


> Nice work Pok, good to see you are keeping with the AG down south. You knocked this AG gear up quicker than your rig at home



Yeh I know, its most probably because now I know what I'm missing out on!!


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## PistolPatch (11/9/09)

Jeez Pok, what are you up to?

Why aren't you brewing in a bag?

Cheers mate,
Pat


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## pokolbinguy (11/9/09)

PistolPatch said:


> Jeez Pok, what are you up to?
> 
> Why aren't you brewing in a bag?
> 
> ...



Because my drilling skills are better than my sewing skills Pat


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## Cocko (11/9/09)

Hey Pok,

Why not lined the inner bucket with a voile bag, then just lift the bucket out to/then sparge?

I don't know, just a thought - brew in some buckets - BISB! hahaha!!

It WOULD work!


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## pokolbinguy (11/9/09)

Cocko said:


> Hey Pok,
> 
> Why not lined the inner bucket with a voile bag, then just lift the bucket out to/then sparge?
> 
> ...



Interesting idea you have there Cocko.

What is this "Voile" stuff anyway ? and where does it come from???

Pok


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## raven19 (11/9/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> What is this "Voile" stuff anyway ? and where does it come from???



You should be able to get this material along with cheesecloth, etc at Spotlight here in Adelaide mate.


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## Cocko (11/9/09)

Mate,

It would work easy!

You have an insulated vessel for the mash, if you make a bag/lining you could you could just lift the grain out and pour the wort out into the kettle....

BTW: Do you have kettle? How do you plan to boil?


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## chappo1970 (11/9/09)

All you need is an understanding wife... who's father owns a brewery. Simple?

Don't go boiling your grains in a bag...


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## pokolbinguy (12/9/09)

Cocko said:


> BTW: Do you have kettle? How do you plan to boil?



I am acquiring a keggle and burner from some local brewers.


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## skippy (12/9/09)

Doogiechap said:


> G'day Kenny,
> Here are a couple of piccy's of my skin fitting before I mounted it in my mash tun.
> Cheers
> Doug
> ...




I recognise that therm setup for a MT Dougie!


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## Nick JD (13/9/09)

I do a lot of small (10L) batches using a 15L pot, a candy thermometer and some swiss voile, on the electric stove top. 

I have mashed 4kg in this pot and added a bit of adjuncts to correct the OG for a 24L batch. 

For $35, you can make great AG beer if you are not aiming for high volume batches. 

A secondary benefit of small batches is you learn much quicker what sucks and what doesn't recipe-wise - you also learn just how much you can get away with (a hell of a lot of the "rules" of AG brewing can be broken with very little affect on taste). I do two or more little brews a week. Only takes two and a half hours from crushing grain to filling the cube.

I'm all for "the perfect setup" and will have one one day ... but for those moving to AG be aware that you don't need to spend $500+ to make tasty all grain beer.


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## RdeVjun (13/9/09)

I'm in a similar position to Nick JD and quite a few others, I BIAB in a 19 litre stockpot on a domestic gas stovetop. Having come through the ranks of K&K, K&B and extract brewing, it was the next logical step for me without incurring much expense in trying my hand at AG. With a few stainless buckets (ex- dairying), clearing cubes, fermenters, tubing, glassware, and bibs & bobs leftover from my previous brewing, the stockpot and a BIAB bag was all I needed to do the switch, so it can be just so simple and also very cheap to get into AG through this route if you've brewed before.
One other aspect is that if you find that it is just not the method for you, for whatever reason, then you haven't thrown a heap of dough at gear that you may not end up using. On the other hand, it is an inexpensive way to see if all grain brewing is your thing and then go on to develop some of the techniques.
If it proves a hassle getting material for the BIAB bag, then a few of the AHB site sponsors are able to supply one quite cheaply. Its not perfect by any means, but more than adequate to get started, I used one of Ross' to start with and it worked just fine, but a generous fellow brewer gave me his that has a drawstring and had become surplus. (BTW, again, many thanks for that pal! :icon_cheers: )
Full- sized batches  can be done with dilution, i.e. 23 litres, although sometimes I've just been filling 15 litre cubes with smaller batches to try a few different things out, but its much the same amount of effort for less beer, so most of the time I aim for full batches. Sparging is fairly important to do this though, unless you want to increase the grain quantities significantly.
+1 for doing smaller batches initially and sussing out which rules can and can't be broken, its not as demanding and onerous a process as some literature would lead you to believe, while thinking outside the box comes highly recommended! Good luck!


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## PistolPatch (13/9/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> Because my drilling skills are better than my sewing skills Pat



LOL! You don't need any sewing skills these days, Nev's Mum does it all for us now. See here.

Good to see you back into it mate :icon_cheers: 
Pat


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