# Food-safe Sealant?



## Fingerlickin_B (28/11/05)

Does anyone on here know of a food-safe sealant? 

I'm after something that remains pliable after curing (like silicone sealants do). 

PZ.


----------



## Justin (28/11/05)

Ah...silcone??

I have used Dow Corning Silicone Sealant. Now the number escapes me but I think this is the one "Dow Corning Product R732" The MSDS is available from their website. Suitable for use in food contact/machinery. Food grade and rated to 232C.


----------



## sintax69 (28/11/05)

shelly aqua silicon (comes in a tooth paste tube nice and reusable $6 @ bunnings)

used for tropical fish tanks as well and those guys are sensitive to every thing


----------



## Fingerlickin_B (28/11/05)

Thanks fellas :beer: 

PZ.


----------



## sluggerdog (6/12/05)

sintax69 said:


> shelly aqua silicon (comes in a tooth paste tube nice and reusable $6 @ bunnings)
> 
> used for tropical fish tanks as well and those guys are sensitive to every thing
> [post="93860"][/post]​




Would this stuff be suitable? it's the ony stuff I could find at bunnings that was safe for aquariums...

Am going to use it on the bottom of a tube going into my fermenter where the temp probe can sit so it will be sitting in beer for a lot of the time...


----------



## Fingerlickin_B (6/12/05)

sluggerdog said:


> sintax69 said:
> 
> 
> > shelly aqua silicon (comes in a tooth paste tube nice and reusable $6 @ bunnings)
> ...



It'd bloody better be...that's what I'm going to be using too :lol: 

PZ.


----------



## Ross (6/12/05)

Sorry Guys - no it isn't...

The only Selley's product safe for long term contact with beer is Selley's "Knead It"

cheers Ross...


----------



## sluggerdog (6/12/05)

Ross said:


> Sorry Guys - no it isn't...
> 
> The only Selley's product safe for long term contact with beer is Selley's "Knead It"
> 
> ...




where do you get this stuff from ross? Couldn't find anything at bunnings...


----------



## Justin (6/12/05)

Can you solder your tube or get it welded shut? That would be the ideal. You might be able to make a nice clean seal in the tube that hopefully wont hide nasties but if the option is available I'd get it welded/soldered shut if it's stainless.

Other than that I would suspect that it would be fine. There are no high temps to deal with in your fermenter and it shouldn't leach anything. It would just be the sanitary side of things that I'd be more concerned about. I'd aim for the smoothest surface of silicone you can manage.

Just for MHO, I think measuring the temp in the fermenter is a little bit excessive, you can brew good beer measuring from the outside but it's totally up to you.

Good luck, Justin


----------



## Ross (6/12/05)

sluggerdog said:


> Ross said:
> 
> 
> > Sorry Guys - no it isn't...
> ...



I got mine from the local hardware store - sorry I can't remember their name.

Edit: Sluggerdog, just crimp & fold the end of the tube with the sealent inside - it should be fine...


----------



## Justin (6/12/05)

"Knead it" might be an option, probably better than silicone but I don't know much about it in a food situation. Yes I have the stuff in my tool box, it's a two part plastic epoxy that you knead together to start it curing. Half my car is held together with it 

Why not try for the Dow Corning stuff above (I still wouldn't plan on putting it in the fermenter. You can get it from blackwoods and other industrial places.

Really in my totally honest opinon, if you going to go to the trouble of sticking something directly into your fermenter why wouldn't you do it properly with a sealed stainless tube? The benefits of temp measuring in the fermenter might be counteracted by the infection risk. Up to you though but I'm of the opinion the simpler and cleaner you can keep your fermenter the less possibility for nasties.

Cheers, Justin


----------



## sluggerdog (6/12/05)

Justin said:


> Can you solder your tube or get it welded shut? That would be the ideal. You might be able to make a nice clean seal in the tube that hopefully wont hide nasties but if the option is available I'd get it welded/soldered shut if it's stainless.
> 
> Other than that I would suspect that it would be fine. There are no high temps to deal with in your fermenter and it shouldn't leach anything. It would just be the sanitary side of things that I'd be more concerned about. I'd aim for the smoothest surface of silicone you can manage.
> 
> ...




The tubing is plastic so it's not weldable..

Yes my only concern was is this stuff going to give me off beer or worst still, make me sick..?


----------



## Justin (6/12/05)

Autobarn, Supercheap and those places usually have knead it. Look for it in the auto section of hardware stores too-of which there is none in Bunnings if I remember rightly.

Or melt the plastic tube shut. No glue/sealant necessary. Should work.

Edit: Combined below post into this post and deleted the one below.


----------



## sintax69 (6/12/05)

Needit specs
http://www.selleys.com.au/itemDisplay.aspx?ItemID=58

Glass Sealent
http://www.selleys.com.au/ItemDisplay.aspx?ItemID=26

Remember that needit will set hard and will need to be filed away where as sealent will peal away so both have there own purpose


----------



## Fingerlickin_B (6/12/05)

sintax69 said:


> Remember that needit will set hard and will need to be filed away where as sealent will peal away so both have there own purpose



Therein lays my problem...whatever I use must be pliable :huh: 

PZ.


----------



## Batz (6/12/05)

Fingerlickin_B said:


> sintax69 said:
> 
> 
> > Remember that needit will set hard and will need to be filed away where as sealent will peal away so both have there own purpose
> ...




Back too aquarium sealant, this works well and is safe , heaps of us brewers have been using it for years.
Think about it...you can use it inside an aquarium , the water stays there so it's in contact with it 24/7 for perhaps months.
Anything toxic and fish do the floating upside thing :huh: 

Batz


----------



## Ross (6/12/05)

Batz said:


> Fingerlickin_B said:
> 
> 
> > sintax69 said:
> ...



I believe maybe fine in water (though not sure about boiling) - but selleys info line, said not to use in beer...

anyway, like most things, it's probably them being over cautious....


----------



## Batz (6/12/05)

I think your on the mark there Ross , if they said it was food grade I would think it would open a can of worms.
Still I have been using it with no ill affects.........apart from feeling a little sleepy now and then.  

Batz


----------



## sluggerdog (6/12/05)

thanks guys, I'll use what I have.. Too easy!~


----------



## Ross (6/12/05)

Batz said:


> I think your on the mark there Ross , if they said it was food grade I would think it would open a can of worms.
> Still I have been using it with no ill affects.........apart from feeling a little sleepy now and then.
> 
> Batz
> [post="95895"][/post]​



I thought maybe that's how you sleep upright - siliconed joints  ...


----------



## Fingerlickin_B (6/12/05)

sluggerdog said:


> thanks guys, I'll use what I have.. Too easy!~



Yep, screw it...I'll do the same  

PZ.


----------



## PeterS (6/12/05)

Ross said:


> Batz said:
> 
> 
> > I think your on the mark there Ross , if they said it was food grade I would think it would open a can of worms.
> ...



No Ross, you forgot to supply a meat hook. All Batz like to hang on to something whilst they rest upside down. Since he was missing that he had no choice but to sleep upright. How uncomfortable is that? Poor old Batz must have been overworked trying to keep up with his casual work...

Cheers,
PeterS....  :beer:


----------



## Jez (6/12/05)

I found my "knead it" at the Bunnings down here in Sydney (Bankstown to be precise). 

Haven't used it anywhere yet though.....

Jez


----------



## Vlad the Pale Aler (6/12/05)

Silicone is safe, as long as it is " neutral cure".
Acetic cure is bad.


----------



## sluggerdog (7/12/05)

*FROM SELLEYS VIA EMAIL:*

The only silicone sealant that Selleys make approved for incidental food contact is Silicone 401. This should be available through Bunnings, Mitre 10 and most local harwares.

*After asking if it was on their website I got the following reply:*

It is only known as Silicone 401. On our website it is located on the trade side under specialist silicones. Unfortunately there is no image available for this product. 

The tube is fairly plain, white with a grey panel. 

The product code is: 930069760697601. If the store is having trouble locating the product this barcode should help.


:beer:


----------



## Doogiechap (7/12/05)

I'm glad soldering is out of the question as lead is a common ingredient (even in silver solder) which is not good for you ! :blink: If you are so keen to accurately monitor your wort temp why don't you measure a batch of water with the probe and compare to the external reading and do a conversion chart ? I'm told that infections are unpleasant....


----------



## Ross (7/12/05)

Doogiechap said:


> If you are so keen to accurately monitor your wort temp why don't you measure a batch of water with the probe and compare to the external reading and do a conversion chart ? I'm told that infections are unpleasant....
> [post="96046"][/post]​



Because the difference in temp between ambient fridge & the wort is not consistant - When the yeast are most active, they can lift the brew temp quite a few degrees above ambient, especially if the brew kicks off before the temp has been fully reduced...

Putting a temp probe via a dip tube in your fermenter lid is a very simple exercise & gives you far better control than just measuring fridge ambient or sticking your probe on the fermenter wall...

cheers Ross


----------



## Darren (7/12/05)

FB,
I ask what you are going to once you have read the temp of your ferment and it is 2-4 degrees to high?
An internal probe gives an indication of temp, but in no way provides temperature control.
I am still unsure what adding a probe to the fermenter adds if you have no way to rapidly heat or cool the ferment.
If it is just curiosity, I would simply hang the probe into the ferment from above (ie under the lid)

cheers
Darrren


----------



## Ross (7/12/05)

Darren said:


> FB,
> I ask what you are going to once you have read the temp of your ferment and it is 2-4 degrees to high?
> An internal probe gives an indication of temp, but in no way provides temperature control.
> I am still unsure what adding a probe to the fermenter adds if you have no way to rapidly heat or cool the ferment.
> ...



FB, never mentioned what he wanted the sealent for if you read the posts Darren  
Sluggerdogs, will be contolling his thermostat - so will be providing temp control  

cheers Ross


----------



## Adamvw (7/5/09)

Hi all,
Revisiting this thread and asking how everyone's sealant is going after a few years?
I have used a non-food grade silicon and now my finished beer tastes like a chemical cocktail - very sad...

Is that Selleys Aquarium sealer the way to go?
What is the hottest temp that anyone has used it under? - I need to use some on a mash tun where I cant weld?

Thanks for your help.

Adam


----------



## newguy (7/5/09)

I used aquarium caulking to seal my first mash tun (an esky) and I used it without issues for approx 8 years. When I built my HERMS, I used it to seal around the electric heating element in my hot liquor tank. That was about 4 years ago now. No leaks, no chemical taste, no issues at all. The max temperature the caulking has seen is 75C (mashout).

Just give it a week to cure properly before you use your mash tun. Don't be alarmed by the vinegar aroma while it cures - that's normal.


----------



## Adamvw (7/5/09)

newguy said:


> I used aquarium caulking to seal my first mash tun (an esky) and I used it without issues for approx 8 years. When I built my HERMS, I used it to seal around the electric heating element in my hot liquor tank. That was about 4 years ago now. No leaks, no chemical taste, no issues at all. The max temperature the caulking has seen is 75C (mashout).
> 
> Just give it a week to cure properly before you use your mash tun. Don't be alarmed by the vinegar aroma while it cures - that's normal.



Fantastic
Thanks, I was worried about the temperature rating.
Cheers
Adam


----------



## Adr_0 (30/7/14)

Hi guys,

I saw this in another thread and though I might comment. I just got onto Dow Corning for some feedback about which silicones are appropriate for pH 4.5-6 (e.g. barley mashes/phosphoric acid or lactic acid) and temps of 80-120°C:

_Hi Adrian,

Thanks for your enquiry.

Once fully cured, both the 732 and 747 should not dissolve/leach chemicals into food. Also, both are of silicone chemistry, which makes them both inert upon complete cure.

Do note that 732 is food grade FDA approved sealant (see its attached technical datasheet), so I would recommend it instead of 747.

By the way, what are the material(s) of the substrates that you are sealing? 


Regards,_

Looks as though the following are appropriate for mash tuns, temp probes etc:
Selleys 401 Engineering (~200°C) - ok, but unfortunately takes *14-21* days to fully cure
Dow Corning 732, 739, 747, 748 (748 ideal) - ranges from 177°C and up
I am going to do a test run of the Bostik 936 in the next few days to see if any bad flavours come up.

Enjoy...


----------



## Fingerlickin_B (22/8/14)

Ross said:


> FB, never mentioned what he wanted the sealent for if you read the posts Darren


And to be honest, after all these years I cannot remember for the life of me! LOL

PZ.


----------



## Feldon (22/8/14)

This is food-safe silicone sealant made for the food industry.

_Food grade silicone. Colour: Aluminium Grey, suitable for use with stainless steel. High temperature formula heat resistant to 200ºC (400ºF). Premium grade. Air cures overnight. Tack-free in 15 minutes. Uses: Waterproof adhesive bonds better than generic sealants. Won't peel. Tube volume: 304ml._

$20 per tube from CRH Australia (http://www.crh.com.au/products/fabrication-supplies/sealants/kason-sil-kason-food-grade-silicone/)


----------



## TidalPete (22/8/14)

And yet another! (rather similar to Feldon's!

TTBOMM $14 from the big green shed last year.

http://www.selleys.com.au/trade/building-products/silicone-sealants/silicone-401-rtv


----------



## Adr_0 (22/8/14)

TidalPete said:


> And yet another! (rather similar to Feldon's!
> 
> TTBOMM $14 from the big green shed last year.
> 
> http://www.selleys.com.au/trade/building-products/silicone-sealants/silicone-401-rtv


Yes, but what it only tells you on the tube - not in any Web literature - is that it takes 21 days to properly cure. And until it does, it will continue to release small amounts of the acetic acid compound, which could leach into what you're using it on. 

Although not exactly a sealant, I have now had great success with the Knead It Aqua, as Ross originally recommended. Funny for Ross to give great information.


----------



## TidalPete (22/8/14)

Adr_0 said:


> Yes, but what it only tells you on the tube - not in any Web literature - is that it takes 21 days to properly cure. And until it does, it will continue to release small amounts of the acetic acid compound, which could leach into what you're using it on.


Thanks for that Adr_O.
I used it to vermin-proof the insulation around the vessels on my HERMS years ago & can't recall what the label said. Not that I'm doubting you of course. 
I don't have any on hand but will check out a tube next time I'm at Bunnings FMI.


----------



## Mardoo (22/8/14)

Second the Selleys Knead It Aqua. Great stuff.


----------

