# drilling different holes in SS pot in imperial - best approach?



## buckerooni (31/10/16)

Hi All,

So I need to drill 2 different holes in my (cheekypeak) SS pot. 

2 x hole for a 1.5 inch triclover ferrule: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm. The hole needs to be between  34.9mm and 41.2mm. 







3 x hole for pull through bulkhead: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptbulkhead.htm. The hole needs to be 20.9mm






I was thinking a decent imperial stepped bit might be the answer but am unable to find a bit that covers the range in size.

Any suggestions of what I should get? Already dropped a bundle of coin on the hardware so looking to minimise the spend on a one-off tool if possible.

Thanks.


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## spog (31/10/16)

Best I can suggest is drilling the holes to nearest smallest size then slowly file the holes to suit using a round file.
Remember that when drilling into a rounded surface like the wall of your pots,if the drill isn't perfectly aligned the hole won't be perfectly round and cause issues,slowly slowly catchy monkey.


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## Danscraftbeer (31/10/16)

Depends what tools and equipment you have. What I would do is literally drill or grind out the bulk, Some grinding bits that fit in a power drill and time with a dremel to finish it out.


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## bevan (31/10/16)

Stainless is pretty tough stuff to drill through. I'd use something that's designed for it like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HSTR-Tungsten-Carbide-Tipped-Metal-Hole-Saw-20-25-30-32-35-40-50-64-65-75-100mm-/201271627211?var=&hash=item2edcb94dcb:m:mzoguhs7mW2edVZC5i6TPSg
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tungsten-Carbide-Tipped-Hole-Saw-TCT-Stainless-Steel-/291824879020?var=&hash=item43f21e45ac:m:mUfym0M5flcqGeWLYZFkgEQ
Also you can smaller sizes from keg king or grain and grape
http://kegking.com.au/misc-plumbing-fittings/brewing-fittings/20mm-tct-holesaw-25mm-deep.html
Prices are not too expensive and they should do a nice job on your shiny pot from cheeky peak


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (31/10/16)

Stainless is not difficult to cut if you are careful.

The key is that the stainless will work harden in the cutting zone under the tool if it gets a chance.

You need to go around this: keep the tool speed low to reduce the size of the work hardening zone and keep the depth of cut high so you go under the work hardened zone that does form.

Slow the tool down as far as possible. Use lots of lubricant and apply as much pressure as you can without stalling. If it does stall, back off completely and start again.

DO NOT leave the tool running on the surface with low cut depth, this will just create a large hardened zone which will be difficult to remove.


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## Mardoo (1/11/16)

What about sheet metal punches? They'll make short work of holes in the CP pots. I love them. Dead easy to use. Greenlee are trade quality and Q Max are next best. I've always used Q Max. You can get them on eBay. eBay seller davethetools (in the U.K.) carries a wide range of imperial Q Max punches. I've been using them for years. They're manual tools, so easy to overlook in our search for Max Power, but they do a fantastic job. You'll still need to drill a pilot hole, and will need to take a close look at the Q Max sizing charts to make sure you get or have the right size bits for the pilot holes. 

There are also hydraulic sheet metal punch sets from China on eBay that some people here have spoken well of. I haven't used those particular ones myself.


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## nosco (1/11/16)

Ive heard they make the neatest hole but a few years back when i was looking they where very pricey. Maybe i was searching for the wrong thing?


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## nosco (1/11/16)

I think Bobby NJ on Youtube ( brewers hardware?) Uses them. If we are talking about the same thing that is.


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## feralbass (1/11/16)

If your worried get them laser cut


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## Curly79 (1/11/16)

Like you said. Step drill. Just stop one size down from the size your after then slowly go a bit more,measure, bit more, measure etc.


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## Mardoo (1/11/16)

nosco said:


> Ive heard they make the neatest hole but a few years back when i was looking they where very pricey. Maybe i was searching for the wrong thing?


The Greenlee ones are quite pricey, but will last a lifetime. The Q Max ones cost much less. I haven't yet worn one out, but I haven't gone more than six holes on any of them. For our purposes the Q Max ones are fine.


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## n87 (1/11/16)

I have a set of the chineese hydraulic punches, was about $90 for a range of sizes.
like this one: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Ton-Hydraulic-Hand-Pump-Knockout-Hole-Punch-Kit-Metal-6-Die-22-60-5mm-/121201233156?hash=item1c38280d04:g:BBEAAOSwMgdX1y2s
mine works fine, have done about 12 holes without signs of stopping.


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## dblunn (1/11/16)

The larger, less precise hole could be cut with a hole saw. The smaller one could also be done with a hole saw but cut it undersize and use a carbide bur on a die grinder to open it out.


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## damoninja (1/11/16)

Curly79 said:


> Like you said. Step drill. Just stop one size down from the size your after then slowly go a bit more,measure, bit more, measure etc.


+1

I have a step drill which is perfect size for punching holes for 1/2" fittings. 

They do have a tendency to suddenly cut very well so go slooowly. Use silicone lube.


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## Mardoo (1/11/16)

You know Buckerooni, I'm 90% certain I have a 21mm punch you could use for your 20.9mm hole. Should you decide you want to give punches a go, it would mean you'd only have to buy the larger one. From what I've read about the pull-through fittings the extra 0.1mm wouldn't be an issue. I'm in Ferntree Gully, so It's a bit of a hike for you to pick up, but I'd be happy to post it to you as long as you promise to post it back to me. I'll double check to see whether it's the correct size.


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## Matplat (1/11/16)

Sheet metal hole punches are definitely the way to go, dunno if it's the sort of tool you can hire or not? Second to that is a step drill.

If you go the hole saw route, as Lyrebird says, slow tool speed, high pressure. You also don't want teeth that are too large, otherwise they'll catch as you start to break through the other side, with it being a curved surface and all.

If you have the perfect conditions for drilling stainless, it isn't a problem. If you don't, it can be a real pain in the backside to work with, and end up with an untidy finish.


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## bevan (1/11/16)

I didn't realise that you could get the hole punches so cheap, definitely the way to go!


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## damoninja (1/11/16)

bevan said:


> I didn't realise that you could get the hole punches so cheap, definitely the way to go!



Shit nor did I. There you go.


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## sp0rk (1/11/16)

damoninja said:


> +1
> 
> I have a step drill which is perfect size for punching holes for 1/2" fittings.
> 
> They do have a tendency to suddenly cut very well so go slooowly. Use silicone lube.


They're very worth buying the expensive option too, anything under $30 tends to be made of cheese


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/11/16)

These work if you are careful and slow


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## buckerooni (1/11/16)

thanks for the replies fellas - much appreciated!

$22 and $35 for the Q Max punches - I'll go that with! Pretty sure I've already got a carbide bur on my dremel to finish off the job.


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## Mardoo (1/11/16)

Mardoo said:


> You know Buckerooni, I'm 90% certain I have a 21mm punch you could use for your 20.9mm hole. Should you decide you want to give punches a go, it would mean you'd only have to buy the larger one. From what I've read about the pull-through fittings the extra 0.1mm wouldn't be an issue. I'm in Ferntree Gully, so It's a bit of a hike for you to pick up, but I'd be happy to post it to you as long as you promise to post it back to me. I'll double check to see whether it's the correct size.


OK, I have 21mm and 20mm. PM me if you want to use either of them.


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## buckerooni (1/11/16)

Mardoo said:


> You know Buckerooni, I'm 90% certain I have a 21mm punch you could use for your 20.9mm hole. Should you decide you want to give punches a go, it would mean you'd only have to buy the larger one. From what I've read about the pull-through fittings the extra 0.1mm wouldn't be an issue. I'm in Ferntree Gully, so It's a bit of a hike for you to pick up, but I'd be happy to post it to you as long as you promise to post it back to me. I'll double check to see whether it's the correct size.


Thanks Mardoo appreciate the kind offer. I should be right with the Q-Max punches, fingers crossed the pilot holes will be the same!


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## Mardoo (1/11/16)

Q Max recommends a 12mm pilot hole for the 21mm punch, and a 14mm pilot hole for the 35mm-41mm punch.

As I recall the pilot hole for the 21mm was far larger than needed once I actually got the 12mm bit, rather than just eyeballing it, and looking at their charts (page 2) you should have no problem. BTW their charts don't mention SS, but I've never had trouble punching SS up to the thickness of modern 60L kegs. I'll have to let you know how they go on my old 18 gallon ones. Those are pretty effin' thick.


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## scooterism (1/11/16)

Have you considered just going to a fabrication shop?

You only need 5 holes, you're willing to outlay $50 odd in tools w/ a chance of a ***** up.

So why not make it someone else's problem, heck, you may even be able to pay them in beer..

Wouldn't hurt to get a quote.

Service your local economy rather than a foreign one.

Just a thought..


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## Maheel (1/11/16)

Ducatiboy stu said:


> These work if you are careful and slow


i love the guard you are running on that beast.....


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/11/16)

Should never have banned them.

They turned boys into men..

Even if some of them lost the odd limb on the way


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## spog (1/11/16)

Maheel said:


> i love the guard you are running on that beast.....


No guard ! , I had a 9 inch grinder let go on me years ago I still treat them very carefully indeed.
The bastard thing ripped the zip out of my jeans,tore open my jacket and shirt and left one thumb nail and two finger nails pointing up 90 degrees from my fingers,bloody hurt pushing them back into place so I didn't lose them.
My hand was useless for a week or so after, painful lesson learnt.
No guard. Don't use .


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## Maheel (1/11/16)

i had one of those green scourer looking paint strip wheels explode 4 meters up on some trestles one morning and i was wearing only boxer shorts.

you know brew day or sand / paint house sat morning decision...

it caught me right in the balls at maybe 5000rpm and luckily i just leaned in and rested on the house

always always use a guard and some protection of some sort....


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## Ducatiboy stu (1/11/16)

Maheel said:


> always always use a guard and some protection of some sort....


Its a lifestyle choice


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## Dave70 (2/11/16)

Two words.
Step drill. We use them all the time on G450 high tensile up to 3mm thick. You'll wonder how you ever got by without one.
Moderate speed and a few squirts of WD 40 as you go. A small pilot hole can be useful with tough bastard stainless also. Get em at a half decent hardware, or better still engineering shop. Not cheap, but unbeatable for drilling sheet.


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## damoninja (2/11/16)

Dave70 said:


> A small pilot hole can be useful with tough bastard stainless also.


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## Mardoo (2/11/16)

Dave70 said:


> Get em at a half decent hardware, or better still engineering shop. Not cheap, but unbeatable for drilling sheet.


Had a look at online engineer's sources, but most seem to only do bigger accounts. Any recommendations? I'm pretty sure my old 18 Gallon kegs will defeat my beloved punches, and I don't want to faff about with questionable step bits.


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## Dave70 (2/11/16)

Mardoo said:


> Had a look at online engineer's sources, but most seem to only do bigger accounts. Any recommendations? I'm pretty sure my old 18 Gallon kegs will defeat my beloved punches, and I don't want to faff about with questionable step bits.


Bigger accounts? Arseholes.. 

Here's a couple of local guys we deal with who are happy to post them to you. If you can get an extra pair of hands to drip some cutting fluid (available at Bunnings) as you drill to keep things nice and cool, all the better. 

http://www.buttsworth.com.au/contact-us/

http://www.metalandmore.com.au/


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## sp0rk (2/11/16)

I made up some cutting fluid with a 50/50 mix of baby oil and organic coconut oil, both from Aldi
Cost maybe $12 and is going to last me years, you only need a few drops, works wonders on kegs
Only problem is with the minus temps here in winter, it goes solid
but I just opened the squirty sauce bottle I put it in and dug a little out with a screwdriver, then smeared it on the drillbit and working surface


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## n87 (2/11/16)

I have a set of relatively cheap step bits (3 pack for ~$30 IIRC), if you treat them well, they will do the job and last a fair time.
I have cut countless holes through stainless, mild steel, hard steel, gal, alu. Still going strong.
[before you ask, I do know the difference between a blunt and sharp bit. these are still sharp, albeit a bit less than new]

Keep it cool is the main thing.


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## Mardoo (2/11/16)

Dave70 said:


> If you can get an extra pair of hands to drip some cutting fluid (available at Bunnings) as you drill to keep things nice and cool, all the better.


I think I may have that sorted:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?/topic/77661-Show-us-your-Brew-Brat/page__view__findpost__p__1413800

Post 60


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## Dave70 (2/11/16)

Yep. Child labor, use it while you can.


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## wynnum1 (2/11/16)

Dave70 said:


> Yep. Child labor, use it while you can.


They can fit in smaller places.


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## pcqypcqy (2/11/16)

Mardoo said:


> Had a look at online engineer's sources, but most seem to only do bigger accounts. Any recommendations? I'm pretty sure my old 18 Gallon kegs will defeat my beloved punches, and I don't want to faff about with questionable step bits.


I got mine from bunnings. There were cheaper Craftright ones for $30ish (from memory), or a better quality one for $50. I got the more expensive one. Drilled a dozen odd holes in kegs and pots for my new 3v system, worked fine with a generous squirt of inox or wd40 every so often.

Even managed to drill through a triclover end cap to fit a weldless fitting. Absolutely the wrong tool for the application, but it worked and the fitting seals and I now have a bottom draining keg HLT and MLT. 

Could probably use a re-sharpen now, but that'd be the same with any good tool.


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