# All Ale Malt Pale Ale



## Gout (10/2/04)

as per JM's advice i brew'd a all ale malt + one hop PALE ALE

i used Golding. It is good because i know what goldings are like now (being the only hop) and know the colour etc of the ale.

it is clean (american ale yeast) thick and creamy at the start (pored low carb and not very cold as per original english pale ales - this will be made cold and gassed soon)

creamy think to start, fruity aroma, slight bitterness then slight sweetness in the middle, followed by a slight bitter end, with goldings flavour and a malty flavour. There is the slightest "green" hop flavour from the dry hops.

I was brewed over 1-2 weeks, secondry 4 weeks(cold) keg now one week(cold).


only bad point (as per all my AG Joe White beers, its cloudy! chill haze or grain i dont know.)


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## big d (10/2/04)

will let you no in a few more weeks how my version but with chinook hops. <_< went


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## Jovial_Monk (10/2/04)

hmmmm cure for hazes;

1. Step mash (50c for 20 mins then decoct or infuse to main mash temp)
2. Boil harder and longer, 90 minutes minimum
3. Add some salts (2 tsp gypsum to start with)
4. Rehydrate Irish moss for 20 mins, add for last 5 mins of boil
5. 4 weeks cold secondary, .5C is fine

You can do a combo of these, of course.

Sounds like plenty of complexity despite the simple recipe!


Jovial Monk


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## big d (10/2/04)

ive read a few posts on different sites where this appears to be common with jw pale malt.
me i dont care its for my stomach so as long as it tastes great im happy.
may be different if i was entering a comp or brewing to a particular style.im new at mashing so just mucking around and having a FAT time.

cheers
big d B)


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## Gout (11/2/04)

i boiled (the hard boil for 100min approx) and say 15 initial boil to get things going.

added irish moss, hydrated in cool water then added 15min before end of the boil. 

Cold condition at abou 1-2 deg for 4 weeks + 1 week CC in Keg.

So not sure yet if its the Yeast American ale (i hear this is cloudy often. Or the grain JW pale)


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## Jovial_Monk (12/2/04)

Well, if still have haze boil two hours

JM


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## Batz (12/2/04)

Does a longer boil clear your AG more ?


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## Asher (12/2/04)

How are you cooling your wort?

Imersion cooling over 30mins tends to produce more chill haze than the same beer cooled through a CF chiller. 

This is an experiment I did with a mate. The only reason I can think this makes a difference is more cold break produced with the snap cooling of a CF chiller rather than the relatively slow cooling of an imersion type cool....

Food for thaught....

Asher for now...


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## Gout (12/2/04)

thats a very good point. I cool with a imersion chiller. takes about ~15-20min to get to say 30deg, where i then start to whirl pool it and then move to the fermentor and chill in the fridge(brewing)

I have thought about a CF but not yet sure

there is some very nice units for sale but are stainless not copper

would these be ok??

$75 all stainless - they were for industrial things like milk i think?!?! but this guy grabed them moded them to suit beer brewing and there you have it

stainless CF. Thoughts?


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## wedge (12/2/04)

stainless is better than copper ben.


Where can you get one for $75?


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## Hoops (12/2/04)

Ben

very intersted in SS CFWC, thinking of building on myself.
Any pics? How many does he have?
The only down side I can see to SS is that it has a slower heat transfer but I don't think it would make much difference with a CFWC.
Hoops


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## Gout (12/2/04)

I have to find the guy again (will do it during the week - next week and i think he has many! i will forward the details when i findthem, just need to do some phone calls to my mate)

i was just worried about the SS / heat transfer but maybe its not such a issue


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## Hoops (13/2/04)

Ben 

I think it would make a difference for an immersion chiller but bugger all difference for a CFWC.

Hoops


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## jayse (16/4/04)

Pulling up another old thread.
iv'e done a few single malt pale ales.
Firstly i think the grain main not be the main factor in the haze but a combo of a few things.
With mine, which all are lucky to make it to 4 weeks, i found the yeast is the biggest factor.
I don't use anything to help clear my beer.
I do boil for nearly two hours though because thats how long it takes me to boil 32l down to 25l.

So far a big inprovement in getting clarity quickly in all my beers was using the thames valley yeast which fell clear as a bell.
but the american II ale yeast doesn't clear anywhere near as well. 
The next few batches are using london III so i'll see how that goes.
So far the beers conditioning taste great and very impressed with the yeast.

anyway i reckon single malt, single hop brewing is great and there are a huge varriety of beers you can make this way.

cheers jayse


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## Jovial_Monk (17/4/04)

"anyway i reckon single malt, single hop brewing is great and there are a huge varriety of beers you can make this way."

Yup, despite the simple recipe there is a depth of clean flavors and a surprising complexity. If you must use crystal malt use the TFawcet caramalt or cararoma if more color is wanted, anything but JW crystal, real cloying, or try crystal wheat for a radical difference!

Jovial Monk


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## jayse (17/4/04)

It doesn't need to be ale malt either.
a few weeks back i tried a wonderful all vienna malt lager brew by another brewer.
i have done 100% pilsner malt pale ales with all hallertau as in the mountain goat pale ale.
One day i'd like to do a all imc munich malt brew also.

for the different types of base malt i always do a single malt beer when i get my hands on a new type.

There is somemany options.

jayse 
ps i do not buy JW crystal either.


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