# My New Ag Sysytem



## Back Yard Brewer (16/11/08)

Well it is finally starting to happen. Got my shit together this arvo and started putting my new sculpture together. All SS and IMHO it is more satisfying knowing that it has only cost me $30 probally less, for the tube!! Work was clearing out the scrap yard to send away to scrap so a few offers later I have enough SS to go stupid with.I have used a mig welder but I have not had any experience TIG welding so it has been quite a learning curve for me. So far I am happy with the results. Now it is just a matter of some more inspiration to build on to what I have done this arvo. Will update this thread as I progress.

BYB


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## Dave86 (16/11/08)

I'm already jealous  I can't wait to move away form the milk crates that form the skeleton of my brewery...


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## Back Yard Brewer (16/11/08)

Dave86 said:


> I'm already jealous  I can't wait to move away form the milk crates that form the skeleton of my brewery...




You mean something like this  This was my earlier days. I have evolved but still use milk crates for my HLT

My next project is to have a crack at making a small conicall SS fermenter. That would be a treat.

BYB


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## raven19 (17/11/08)

Great start on the rig there. Can I enquire as to why not 3 level? Are you planning on using a pump from Mash Tun to Kettle?

Slightly off topic - I have been informed the SS has been ordered for my 100L kettle. Hurrah!


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## Back Yard Brewer (17/11/08)

raven19 said:


> Great start on the rig there. Can I enquire as to why not 3 level? Are you planning on using a pump from Mash Tun to Kettle?
> 
> Slightly off topic - I have been informed the SS has been ordered for my 100L kettle. Hurrah!



I have a march pump which is being used on my current system. Just a matter of deciding whether I sell my current system when my new one is finished or just rape and pillage the parts for my new one.

BYB


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## KHB (17/11/08)

Looking good also tells me my welding isnt to far away!!


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## Bribie G (17/11/08)

Dave86 said:


> I'm already jealous  I can't wait to move away form the milk crates that form the skeleton of my brewery...



Brilliant Idea, I have been racking my brains to work out a quick convenient moveable platform to support my urn when it arrives in a couple of weeks (BIAB) so it's under the skyhook in the garage and high enough to transfer to cube afterwards, and had never even thought of milk crates. 
Thanks for that.  

SS on wheels will come later.


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## Back Yard Brewer (17/11/08)

KHB said:


> Looking good also tells me my welding isnt to far away!!




:lol: :lol: 

BYB


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## Back Yard Brewer (28/11/08)

Just an update. Will install my march pump and italian spiral burner next then will be waiting on the 98ltr SS pots from Beerbelly to fire it up. The tower where the HLT will be on, is to be enclosed on the sides and bottom for storing my brewing bling.

BYB


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## hoohaaman (28/11/08)

Nice looking rig,the Italian spiral is great.


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## yardy (5/12/08)

nice work BYB B) , looking fwd to seeing it finished.

cheers


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## raven19 (5/12/08)

BribieG said:


> Brilliant Idea, I have been racking my brains



I reckon milk crates are akin to basic building blocks for brewers...

I wont be able to provide a strucutral engineers certificate for load rating though!


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## Back Yard Brewer (10/1/09)

Well its been nearly 6 weeks since my first post and things are coming along nicely but slowly. Just waiting now for the stockpots. 100ltr HLT, 70ltr MT, 100ltr kettle. Then a 3.6kw ellement for the HLT.

BYB


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## yardy (10/1/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Well its been nearly 6 weeks since my first post and things are coming along nicely but slowly. Just waiting now for the stockpots. 100ltr HLT, 70ltr MT, 100ltr kettle. Then a 3.6kw ellement for the HLT.
> 
> BYB




nice, very nice B) 

going to look the dux nuts with the pots in place

cheers
Yard


btw, got a link for the HLT element ?


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## Back Yard Brewer (27/1/09)

Steady as she goes. Have now picked up my SS pots compliments of Beerbelly Still have a bit of bling to attach to it. The MT in the middle is bottom draining and will have a 12" round FB. I will need to move my chiller a fraction sideways so the MT can be more central to where I want it. Still throwing the idea around whether to go for a 3.6kw or 3kw ellement for the HLT. Will most likely mash in with around 30ltrs. My idea is to only heat what I need for mash in then fill again for sparging. With this in mind I would only need to heat around 70ltrs at any one time. In a nutshell 30-35ltrs for mash in then reheat around 70 for sparging. With a little bit of a clean the sha bang should come up well. Currently 46c in the shed  

BYB


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## schooey (27/1/09)

Looking good BYB, so jealous of the staino frame, maybe in my next life time... I went for the 3600W element, glad I did now. I only heat 45-48L of water in my HLT and it only takes around 15 min max


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## Back Yard Brewer (27/1/09)

schooey said:


> Looking good BYB, so jealous of the staino frame, maybe in my next life time... I went for the 3600W element, glad I did now. I only heat 45-48L of water in my HLT and it only takes around 15 min max




How have you got it wired? 15amp plug? Through a controller? So many questions.......

BYB


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## schooey (27/1/09)

Hmmm.. brief description, I have a 20A rated circuit with the one outlet for my brewery. The panel for my brewery has a mains supply 16A combined RCD/MCB. On the element circuit I have a 20A contactor driven by a rotating switch on the front of the panel as an on off. The contactor then supplies active to the load side of a 40A SSR. The SSR is driven by a PID. Hope that makes sense...


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## Back Yard Brewer (27/1/09)

schooey said:


> Hmmm.. brief description, I have a 20A rated circuit with the one outlet for my brewery. The panel for my brewery has a mains supply 16A combined RCD/MCB. On the element circuit I have a 20A contactor driven by a rotating switch on the front of the panel as an on off. The contactor then supplies active to the load side of a 40A SSR. The SSR is driven by a PID. Hope that makes sense...




A little way over my head. Was hoping to do something similar to my current ellement set up that I have on my kettle, that is a 2.4kw ellement with a 15amp plug wired. This runs of a dedicated 16amp circuit in my shed. I also have a 1.8kw running to a 10amp supply. I have only once had the 32amp shed breaker trip out at the house which was my fault. On that day I had the a/c in the bar running along with 3 fridges. Nowadays I run the 1.8kw to the house if needed which is very rare.


BYB


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## KHB (27/1/09)

schooey said:


> Looking good BYB, so jealous of the staino frame, maybe in my next life time... I went for the 3600W element, glad I did now. I only heat 45-48L of water in my HLT and it only takes around 15 min max





Wow that is so fast


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## schooey (27/1/09)

*shrugs*

Just trying to help a dude out... maybe I'll just be quiet from now on


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## Back Yard Brewer (27/1/09)

schooey said:


> *shrugs*
> 
> Just trying to help a dude out... maybe I'll just be quiet from now on




Nup all ideas taken on board. Do know a few sparky's that I will be getting in touch with. Quiet can be deafening -_- 

BYB


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## Zwickel (27/1/09)

wow BYB, that looks really great. A beautiful masterpiece


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## raven19 (27/1/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Steady as she goes. Have now picked up my SS pots compliments of Beerbelly Still have a bit of bling to attach to it. The MT in the middle is bottom draining and will have a 12" round FB. I will need to move my chiller a fraction sideways so the MT can be more central to where I want it. Still throwing the idea around whether to go for a 3.6kw or 3kw ellement for the HLT. Will most likely mash in with around 30ltrs. My idea is to only heat what I need for mash in then fill again for sparging. With this in mind I would only need to heat around 70ltrs at any one time. In a nutshell 30-35ltrs for mash in then reheat around 70 for sparging. With a little bit of a clean the sha bang should come up well. Currently 46c in the shed
> 
> BYB



It took my kettle 55 Minutes to lift 80L of wort from 65 to the boil. I use 2 x 2400 W Ceramic Elements.

Very nice setup also! Love that stainless look!


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## drsmurto (28/1/09)

So the northern chapter has a big brewery now.

Let us know when you plan on taking her for her virgin ride and i will be there.

Sounds like a chance to have big brew days and take home some wort!

I got 1 out of 7 on OzLotto last night so no bling for me.


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## Back Yard Brewer (28/1/09)

DrSmurto said:


> So the northern chapter has a big brewery now.
> 
> Let us know when you plan on taking her for her virgin ride and i will be there.
> 
> ...



Still have a few things to add, which adds up to finance.
After putting through a trial or two I may put out an APB invite. Will most likely make a "Virgin Celebration Pilsner" B) for the first official brew.

BYB


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## Back Yard Brewer (8/2/09)

Having just made and installed my thermowell I have come to the conclusion that I may shorten have to shorten it a little. I want to put a herms coil in, I can get around the element which will be very low and which is yet to be installed but the thermowell may be a problem. I am going to make a copper coil that is a fraction rounder than your standard corny. The herms coil will have a three copper legs braized to it so it sits nicely in the HLT. Whats the consensus :unsure: 

BYB


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## Back Yard Brewer (9/2/09)

Oop's just hit a bump  


BYB


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## Doogiechap (9/2/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Having just made and installed my thermowell I have come to the conclusion that I may shorten have to shorten it a little. I want to put a herms coil in, I can get around the element which will be very low and which is yet to be installed but the thermowell may be a problem. I am going to make a copper coil that is a fraction rounder than your standard corny. The herms coil will have a three copper legs braized to it so it sits nicely in the HLT. Whats the consensus :unsure:
> 
> BYB



Hey mate, You should be able to get away with it with it's current length. I just installed my Mashmaster probe after I installed my herms coil and guided it through the gaps in the coil. As far as legs go my coil is just 12mm annealed copper and is very sturdy without support just by being fixed through the sides of my dedicated herms vessel.
Cheers
Doug


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## Back Yard Brewer (15/2/09)

Well just spent most of the day trying to complete the system. Almost there. Have managed to set up the spiral for the Kettle and also knocked uo a Beerbelly inspired Sparge Arm MkII B) Still working / deciding what I will do about my element problem. Anyway here are the pics.


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## SJW (15/2/09)

No kegs? :huh:


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## SJW (15/2/09)

Got to love those Italian Spiral Burners. :wub:


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## joecast (15/2/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Anyway here are the pics.



wow thats nice! good work BYB :beerbang:


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## Back Yard Brewer (17/2/09)

I am just in the process of getting the height of my spiral burner right. What is the general opinion / consensus of brewers with spirals on the best distance from pot to burner :unsure: 


BYB


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## Frank (17/2/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> I am just in the process of getting the height of my spiral burner right. What is the general opinion / consensus of brewers with spirals on the best distance from pot to burner :unsure:
> BYB


Andy, you will need to turn the burner on to determine the height. The hottest part of the flame is where it turns from blue to yellow. The pot and burner should be positioned to match this point.


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## Back Yard Brewer (17/2/09)

Boston said:


> Andy, you will need to turn the burner on to determine the height. The hottest part of the flame is where it turns from blue to yellow. The pot and burner should be positioned to match this point.




I realise that is a valid point but instead of trialing to much (and maybe getting burnt) I'd like to know from others that have gone to the trouble, and maybe burnt themselves  I will be using a high pressure reg to get the extra grunt that I will require.

BYB


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## schooey (17/2/09)

I've got a Spiral and a Rambo.. I fin'd with the Spiral that too much pressure tends to make it inefficient, as in the pressure of gas coming out almost extinguishes the flame.... Mine is on a variable reg though so easy to adjust. Does anyone have a spiral on a high pressure reg? How does it perform?

Sorry to hijack, BYB, just curious.... Shit hot job by the way mate


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## KHB (17/2/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> I realise that is a valid point but instead of trialing to much (and maybe getting burnt) I'd like to know from others that have gone to the trouble, and maybe burnt themselves  I will be using a high pressure reg to get the extra grunt that I will require.
> 
> BYB




Look at the one at my house!!!

KHB


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## Frank (17/2/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> I realise that is a valid point but instead of trialing to much (and maybe getting burnt) I'd like to know from others that have gone to the trouble, and maybe burnt themselves  I will be using a high pressure reg to get the extra grunt that I will require.
> BYB


As soon as you work it out, I will get the results from you  . I am using the same gear on the stand which is too close. I have not had a chance to build my rig yet though.



schooey said:


> I've got a Spiral and a Rambo.. I fin'd with the Spiral that too much pressure tends to make it inefficient, as in the pressure of gas coming out almost extinguishes the flame.... Mine is on a variable reg though so easy to adjust. Does anyone have a spiral on a high pressure reg? How does it perform?
> Sorry to hijack, BYB, just curious.... Shit hot job by the way mate


Have a look here, this post was bumped earlier today.


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## Back Yard Brewer (17/2/09)

KHB said:


> Look at the one at my house!!!
> 
> KHB



Ah yes but my question was focusing on the broader brewing population. But then again every situation is different so I suppose my query may not have much merit.

BTW are you yelling!!  Put that beer down and sober up son :lol: 

BYB


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## Back Yard Brewer (17/2/09)

Boston said:


> As soon as you work it out, I will get the results from you  . I am using the same gear on the stand which is too close. I have not had a chance to build my rig yet though.
> 
> 
> Have a look here, this post was bumped earlier today.




After looking at Waynes exploding concrete demo I am wondering whether to much heat will be reflected of the SS sheet that my burner will be sitting on. A little concerned ATM. Also I may have to move my switch, I done a short burst trial and the switch box got a little warm.


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## jel (18/2/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> After looking at Waynes exploding concrete demo I am wondering whether to much heat will be reflected of the SS sheet that my burner will be sitting on. A little concerned ATM. Also I may have to move my switch, I done a short burst trial and the switch box got a little warm.



Andy,

Nice, very nice. You will have to hand out sunglasses to any-one that drops in for a look - that is some seriously shiny work there.

With regards to the height of the burner, I noticed you have used angles for support/connection. Could you not extend the legs of the angles and cut out a slot for the fixings? That way you could adjust the height to suit.

I wouldnt worry too much about the heat reflection from the s/s base. IIRC Zwickel has a similar setup and commented that the reflected heat reduced heating times etc. and was a good thing.
I would consider relocating the switches though ... or install some additional sheet to both sides of your frame to create a wall with an air-gap between your burner and your electrics.

cheers
jon


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## Steve (18/2/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Well just spent most of the day trying to complete the system. Almost there. Have managed to set up the spiral for the Kettle and also knocked uo a Beerbelly inspired Sparge Arm MkII B) Still working / deciding what I will do about my element problem. Anyway here are the pics.




Jumping up n down, stamping feet....why cant I have one of them!? That looks great!
Cheers
Steve


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## boingk (18/2/09)

Very, very nice looking setup you have there! My only comment would be for you to consider drilling a few holes into the burner's SS mounting plate - one largish one in the center and several smaller ones around the outside of the burner. This way you'll get killer air intake from below the burner, which will let the flame propogate in a more direct line towards the kettle. ie: More heat, more directly.

Cheers - boingk


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## chappo1970 (18/2/09)

BYB Awesome job mate! Green to the gills with envy. I want one just like that simple, sturdy and practical.



boingk said:


> ...drilling a few holes into the burner's SS mounting plate - one largish one in the center and several smaller ones around the outside of the burner. This way you'll get killer air intake from below the burner, which will let the flame propogate in a more direct line towards the kettle. ie: More heat, more directly.
> Cheers - boingk


BoingK could you explain this further? Not trying to be smart either. I am planning my AG setup and like everyone who's heading down that slope, I am grasping at different bits and bobs to tweak the final plan. Like BYB I was planning to put a heat deflection plate under and to the rear of the gas ring. I get the idea of letting the flame breathe just not the principals behind it?


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## boingk (18/2/09)

As you look down onto the burner mounted onto the plate, envision a few holes drilled around the outside perimeter of the burner, like moons (the holes) around a planet (the burner). Say... eight to twelve holes. Now, envision one larger hole in the metal visible through the middle of the ring formed by the burner itself.

These holes will allow for a better mix of air and fuel at the burner because there will be more air exposed to the burner. Additionally, the flame will be jetting upwards; it makes sense to have air coming up from underneath the burner to mix with the igniting fuel and allow for a cleaner and hotter burn. Lastly, the air coming up from underneath the burner will cause the flame to be drafted upwards towards the pot being heated.

In a nutshell, you want as much air as possible around the burner and the holes will help with this. If the air can be flowing in the same direction the flames will be then so much the better, and the holes will help with this too.

Cheers, hope that makes it a bit less muddy  - boingk


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## chappo1970 (18/2/09)

Cheers BoingK I've got it. Thanks for taking the time to explain.

I reckon it's like the holes around the top of an oxy torch heating tip. They have a series holes around the top leading edge of the tip and generally the back of the shroud to the tip is open to allow for the same thing air to the flame.


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## jel (18/2/09)

i was under the impression that with the italian spiral burners, the air needed was mixed with the gas well before the holes/outlets, at the 'handle' end.

i can not see how having holes in the support shelf would benefit? happy to proven wrong though ...


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## Back Yard Brewer (18/2/09)

jel said:


> Andy,
> 
> 
> 
> ...



May need to drop the burner down a little.

Yes hopefully the reflection will help but the idea of drilling a few holes here and there sounds like it has some merit. That is in regards to air intake.

Managed to find a piece of 3mm plate that I can tig to the frame and form a sheild. Hope that works. Don't fancy moving the switch and really where it is that is the best suited spot. But then again I could move it inside the box where the tempmate is.

BYB


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## Zwickel (18/2/09)

jel said:


> i was under the impression that with the italian spiral burners, the air needed was mixed with the gas well before the holes/outlets, at the 'handle' end.
> 
> i can not see how having holes in the support shelf would benefit? happy to proven wrong though ...


thats the point.

drilling holes around the burner could be even contraproductive.
the ideal mixture of gas/air is set up at the burner itself and the gas/airflow provides a laminar flow of the heat around the kettle.
Holes around the burner would just lower the temp of the surrounding gas flow.

just my 2 cent

:icon_cheers:


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## Back Yard Brewer (5/3/09)

Well after much discussion I have opted for the Mongolian 23 jet burner. Phoned John at G & G paid for it Monday arrived this morning (not express post either)

Must admit these things pump out some serious heat. Standard reg is all that can be used on these things. Managed to get a boil on 60ltrs in 50mins from 20c. My only worry is that my boil is not as vigorous as I had hoped. I want to step up to the 80ltr boil eventually. Pondering going the 32 jet ATM. 

BYB


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## kirem (5/3/09)

I have the 32 jet model and what a beast. I had it hooked up to a variable reg and sitting on a pedestal with a nut welded in the middle and a bolt mounted to the bottom of the kettle, by turning the pedestal it went up and down to get the flame licking the bottom of the kettle just right. 

Makes a bit of noise, pumps some heat out and drains a gas bottle very quickly. It is one of the reasons I did away with gas and went all electric. It now happily boils up blue swimmers, rock lobster, murray cray, marron and yabbies.

My Brewery is now know as The Apostle Judas Iscariot Brewery


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## Back Yard Brewer (5/3/09)

kirem said:


> I have the 32 jet model and what a beast. I had it hooked up to a variable reg and sitting on a pedestal with a nut welded in the middle and a bolt mounted to the bottom of the kettle, by turning the pedestal it went up and down to get the flame licking the bottom of the kettle just right.
> 
> Makes a bit of noise, pumps some heat out and drains a gas bottle very quickly. It is one of the reasons I did away with gas and went all electric. It now happily boils up blue swimmers, rock lobster, murray cray, marron and yabbies.
> 
> My Brewery is now know as The Apostle Judas Iscariot Brewery




That is why I am reluctant to go bigger. The 32 jet being the gas guzzler it maybe. I tried running the 23jet with the variable reg but it did not like it. When you say it empties a cylinder quick, how quick? What were your boil sizes.

BYB


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## kirem (5/3/09)

it was about a year ago now but maybe get 2-3 boils from a bottle (the standard bottle size) can't remember the bottle size.

42L boil

sorry it is a bit vague.


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## Back Yard Brewer (7/3/09)

Finally brewed today and what a beast the 23jet mongolian is (ask Dr Smurto) I have some serious calibration work to do with beersmith after yesterdays brewing. Sart boil of 60ltrs and eneded up with 37ltrs into the fermenter  Even allowing for 4ltrs of trub it was one f***ing hell of an evaporation rate. I am brewing tomorrow again so I have now bumped my evaporation rate up to 15%  Since it is a 98 ltr SS stockpot I may keep the lid half on to try and reduce the evaporation rate. Once again the 23jet is a beast of a burner.

BYB


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## hoohaaman (7/3/09)

I have an Italian spiral with a 60lt kettle,no matter how i tweak it,I looses 8.5-10 lts per hour.Depending on wind humidity etc.

They are great on gas,usually 6 /1 hour boils,sometimes up to 8 depending on shitty Bunnings fills.

BYB if your starting with 60lts and end up with 37lts after 1 hour, your evaporation rate is more like 35% not 15%.Oh and % per hour in beersmith is wobbly.


I loose 8-10 lts per hour no matter how full/empty the kettle is.Lid off


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## kirem (8/3/09)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> Finally brewed today and what a beast the 23jet mongolian is (ask Dr Smurto) I have some serious calibration work to do with beersmith after yesterdays brewing. Sart boil of 60ltrs and eneded up with 37ltrs into the fermenter  Even allowing for 4ltrs of trub it was one f***ing hell of an evaporation rate. I am brewing tomorrow again so I have now bumped my evaporation rate up to 15%  Since it is a 98 ltr SS stockpot I may keep the lid half on to try and reduce the evaporation rate. Once again the 23jet is a beast of a burner.
> 
> BYB



Had a similar thing happen. That is why I found the adjustable reg worked well. Once boiling, turn the reg down to keep a rolling boil, there is no need to boil the beejesus out of it. I suppose you could use the valve on the extension piece of the burner to do the same thing.


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## KHB (8/3/09)

kirem said:


> Had a similar thing happen. That is why I found the adjustable reg worked well. Once boiling, turn the reg down to keep a rolling boil, there is no need to boil the beejesus out of it. I suppose you could use the valve on the extension piece of the burner to do the same thing.




We actually tied restricting the flow off gas with the valve on the burner and that worked well.

KHB


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## Screwtop (8/3/09)

hoohaaman said:


> BYB if your starting with 60lts and end up with 37lts after 1 hour, your evaporation rate is more like 35% not 15%.Oh and % per hour in beersmith is wobbly.
> 
> 
> I loose 8-10 lts per hour no matter how full/empty the kettle is.



Forget Beersmith's silly % boil off, record how much you loose during your boil, then calculate how much you loose per hour in litres (this will be an average, due to atmospheric conditions, wind etc). When calculating your pre-boil amount in Beersmith for varying batch sizes (single or double batches) simply adjust the % in Beersmith to arrive at the loss in litres that you know you loose per hour in your kettle. Hope that makes sense :huh: 



kirem said:


> Once boiling, turn the reg down to keep a rolling boil, there is no need to boil the beejesus out of it.



I used to boil the crap out of my wort but have been reducing the heat to just give a rolling boil without any noticable effects (DMS) and find I get a more predictable boil off rate.


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## Back Yard Brewer (9/3/09)

kirem said:


> Had a similar thing happen. That is why I found the adjustable reg worked well.




I have an adjustable reg and for some reason even on its lowest setting I could not get it to work. Like there was to much gas flow. The jets just would not light properly.

BYB


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## Online Brewing Supplies (9/3/09)

I was listening to one of those podcasts from the Guru up north. He reakons 2-3% evap. Not possilbe in my system, if I put the lid on it just turns into a steam train  I get 15% evap in 50 L batchs which is my standard.Works for me.My kettle has a 1.66:1 ratio, 1:66 being the width and a four ring burner..
GB


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## schooey (9/3/09)

Screwtop said:


> Forget Beersmith's silly % boil off, record how much you loose during your boil, then calculate how much you loose per hour in litres (this will be an average, due to atmospheric conditions, wind etc). When calculating your pre-boil amount in Beersmith for varying batch sizes (single or double batches) simply adjust the % in Beersmith to arrive at the loss in litres that you know you loose per hour in your kettle. Hope that makes sense :huh:



Makes perfect sense to me and I could never understand why Beersmith/Promash utilise a percentage of volume formula when volume has no bearing on any evaporation equation. It's a very valid point, particularly for people varying boils by a batch size, the error can be a couple of litres


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## chappo1970 (9/3/09)

Screwtop said:


> Forget Beersmith's silly % boil off, record how much you loose during your boil, then calculate how much you loose per hour in litres (this will be an average, due to atmospheric conditions, wind etc). When calculating your pre-boil amount in Beersmith for varying batch sizes (single or double batches) simply adjust the % in Beersmith to arrive at the loss in litres that you know you loose per hour in your kettle. Hope that makes sense



Thanks Screwy been doing my Knut in to working something better out for boil loss. I have been losing about 2 extra than anticipated. Cheers


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## Back Yard Brewer (29/3/09)

Another update. 

Spent the good part of the week-end fixing my control box to the bench along with the installation of other hardware, switches, relays etc. A big thanks to one of the forum members who ably pointed me in the right direction in respect to the wiring. and thanks to Screwtop for the info on relays from Jaycar. All I have to do is install another tempmate so that I can monitor the grain temp. The switches are set up in such a way that I can isolate the heating elements but still monitor the temps. A little bit of a cosmetic tidy up and away we go. Yes for those who are asking, the box is secondhand.

If anyone is interested I have a control box that is ready to go for a tempmate. Just buy one and the pictured bowx is ready to go. Make a reasonable offer.

BYB


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## jimmybee (29/3/09)

hmmm.... serious... love it!


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## Screwtop (29/3/09)

jimmybee said:


> hmmm.... serious... love it!




Yep serious, thats Back Yard Brewer  

Screwy


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## KHB (30/3/09)

Yeah loved the way this was wired together, had fun helping line it up to the bench etc!

KHB


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## Back Yard Brewer (29/1/10)

Thought I would resurrect one of my old threads with an update. Its been a while but I have finally gotten my shit together and begun fabricating my new herms. The photo below shows the effect/result of rolling up 9mtrs of copper. I currently have a herms with around 4mtrs rolled (picture shown as well) but I am not happy with my ramp time. My average grain bill is around 11-14kgs and at around 2.5ltrs per kg I have a little more than the average system to circ. 

I am toying with the idea of have a herms that is not hard plumbed to a vessel. A type of immersion herms you might say. Will post some more pics later as I fabricate.

BYB


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## Back Yard Brewer (13/2/10)

Finally finished f***ing around this arvo and got my new herms running or should I say a trial circulation. Don't think I would want to go anymore than 9mtrs of copper. Though the delivery is good its not a fast as I thought it might be. There is a lot of copper wound plus there are a few other bends and twists all helping with the restriction of flow. But at least it works ATM  The 2.4kw heating element arrives next week.

BYB

Edit: Not sure whether the flow would be better if I went in through the bottom and then out the top. Should not be to hard to modify if needed.


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## Tony (13/2/10)

Mate......... looking great!

One thing i would do is get a seperate hardwired earth run from the one you have in the control panel to the panel door.

Dont trust the hinge to conduct!

It could be a shocking experience 

keep the pics coming.

cheers


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## Back Yard Brewer (14/2/10)

Tony said:


> Mate......... looking great!
> 
> One thing i would do is get a seperate hardwired earth run from the one you have in the control panel to the panel door.
> 
> ...




Yep, that point was made by a couple sparky mate's soon after installation. Current photo below.

Cheers
BYB


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## Tony (14/2/10)

Im not being picky here mate.... but i still cant see where it is bonded to the door directly.

See that little threaded stud in the bottom corner of the door. You want an earth wire hooked to that and run back to the stud in the main panel.

Im only pedantic about this cause i got a shock off a live panel door at work years ago. Hinges were a bit rusty and the foam seal insulated it from the main panel frame. A 240v active fell out of a display and was resting up against the back of the door, making it live. I grabbed the door to open it to see why the display wasnt working.

Like i said...... shocking experience.

Id hate to see you or anyone else get a zap, especially with all that exposed looking power terminals

cheers


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## Scruffy (14/2/10)

Yup, that's what that door stud is for!!! They designed it that way you know!!

--edit-- adjective missing.


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## Back Yard Brewer (14/2/10)

Tony said:


> Im not being picky here mate.... but i still cant see where it is bonded to the door directly.
> 
> See that little threaded stud in the bottom corner of the door. You want an earth wire hooked to that and run back to the stud in the main panel.
> 
> ...




I think we are both looking at the same picture. (my last post that is) Bottom left hand corner of the control box you will see a number of earth wires fixed by a nut. On the door itself there are three tempmates. The very top tempmate there is an earth wire to the right which you can't see the end of. That earth is physically bolted to the door the same as the wires you can see in the bottom left hand corner of the box. Are you refering to a different way or am i misunderstanding :wacko: 

BYB


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## C_west (14/2/10)

I think tony was talking about earthing to the other part of the box, not the door itself?


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## joebejeckel (14/2/10)

Ok looks great, how much will you sell them for $$$$$$$ ????????????????????

you are going to make them aren't you ????


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## paulwolf350 (14/2/10)

Back Yard Brewer said:


> I think we are both looking at the same picture. (my last post that is) Bottom left hand corner of the control box you will see a number of earth wires fixed by a nut. On the door itself there are three tempmates. The very top tempmate there is an earth wire to the right which you can't see the end of. That earth is physically bolted to the door the same as the wires you can see in the bottom left hand corner of the box. Are you refering to a different way or am i misunderstanding :wacko:
> 
> BYB





Tony was suggesting using the stud on the bottom right of the door. But as long as it is solidly mounted to the actual door somewhere and to the stud on the case it will be fine. Make sure it goes to the door and not to an instrument on the door


Paul


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## Tony (14/2/10)

All good.... .wanst having a go. 

If the door is bonded directly to earth its all good  Its just a common trap. Was only looking out for your safety mate 

And i love the HERMS! I really need to build a propper HERMS

Id say in 12 months i will be doing a rebuild...... going to start scavenging parts. 

cheers


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## woodmac66 (14/2/10)

Lookin good BYB!!!
When are you going to test it out on a brew???


Woody


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## Back Yard Brewer (14/2/10)

woodmac said:


> Lookin good BYB!!!
> When are you going to test it out on a brew???
> 
> 
> Woody




Hopefully this week-end  

BYB




Tony said:


> All good.... .wanst having a go.
> 
> If the door is bonded directly to earth its all good  Its just a common trap. Was only looking out for your safety mate
> 
> ...




The door hinge is actually welded to the door and frame. Bit irrespective I see your point regarding the actual hinge itself from the control box. Will run a seperate earth from the box to the frame work if that make sense?

Cheers
BYB


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## raven19 (14/2/10)

Mate, it is looking schmick indeed now!

I presume running the wort top to bottom would allow more flow through the HERMS rather than bottom up. But if the pump can handle it or you are happy with the flow...

I would certainly be giving it another test on ramp times with just water once the element arrives.

Exciting times...!


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## Back Yard Brewer (20/6/11)

Tony said:


> All good.... .wanst having a go.
> 
> If the door is bonded directly to earth its all good  Its just a common trap. Was only looking out for your safety mate
> 
> ...




Be going through some old threads and was wondering whether the above comment has happened yet.

BYB


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