# Stainless Steel HELP!



## [email protected] (4/7/14)

Hi guys,
I'm using a 50l keg as my mash tun and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in it to accommodate a dial thermometer but of course I have put the hole in the wrong place. Can you patch stainless steel with anything or should I just jam a bung in it? If it wasn't so embarrassing i'd put a photo up...


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## Batz (4/7/14)

You would need to have it welded, but why not just use a 1/2" stainless bolt, couple of washers and a rubber or teflon seal on each. Easy fix and tell people it's meant to be like that.

Batz


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## Batz (4/7/14)

"Did you drill 1/2" or clearance for 1/2" BSP?


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## [email protected] (4/7/14)

Batz said:


> You would need to have it welded, but why not just use a 1/2" stainless bolt, couple of washers and a rubber or teflon seal on each. Easy fix and tell people it's meant to be like that.
> 
> Batz


Cause I'm an idiot Batz, you know how a keg has a bump in it, well i drilled the hole on top of that bump so there is no way to seal it. :blink: the hole is big enough to fit a 1/2 BSP.


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## TidalPete (4/7/14)

> you know how a keg has a bump in it, well i drilled the hole on top of that bump so there is no way to seal it. :blink: the hole is big enough to fit a 1/2 BSP.



Looks like it's patch or toss?

A question of economics I'd say or as a last resort (depending how bad it is) try soft copper washers on both sides.


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## [email protected] (4/7/14)

Could I just bang a rubber bung in there?


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## Batz (4/7/14)

TidalPete said:


> Looks like it's patch or toss?
> 
> A question of economics I'd say or as a last resort (depending how bad it is) try soft copper washers on both sides.


Agree with Pete, you could botch it but I'll start again.
Lesson #1..better luck next time. 

Batz


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## wide eyed and legless (4/7/14)

Silver solder a copper patch, use a small piece of 19 mm annealed copper tube slit and opened out.


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## [email protected] (4/7/14)

Here's what I have done!


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## tavas (4/7/14)

Try some Knead It


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## tavas (4/7/14)

Or there's a guy in Frankston selling 50lt kegs for $55 each.
Or a guy on ebay selling better ones for $75.

Couple of options there, but I'd try a bit of threaded bar/bar stock/stainless washer/20c piece and some Knead It first off.

Hell, I'd even try a wine cork.


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## [email protected] (4/7/14)

tavas said:


> Or there's a guy in Frankston selling 50lt kegs for $55 each.
> Or a guy on ebay selling better ones for $75.
> 
> Couple of options there, but I'd try a bit of threaded bar/bar stock/stainless washer/20c piece and some Knead It first off.
> ...



Thats what I'm thinking Beer God, a silicon bung from Keg King. If that doesn't work then a new one it is!!


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## rehabs_for_quitters (4/7/14)

I must add pretty impressed on how tidy the hole is considering its location


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## elcarter (4/7/14)

Just tig a stainless hex nipple and then put a cap on it.

When your ready you can install a PTI 100 probe for some serious wank.


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## [email protected] (4/7/14)

elcarter said:


> Just tig a stainless hex nipple and then put a cap on it.
> 
> When your ready you can install a PTI 100 probe for some serious wank.


Have no idea what that means.....


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## Beerbuoy (4/7/14)

elcarter said:


> Just tig a stainless hex nipple and then put a cap on it.
> 
> When your ready you can install a PTI 100 probe for some serious wank.


Yep, just get a stainless threaded fitting welded in. Cheaper then a new keg and better then weldless fittings


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## hotmelt (4/7/14)

If you haven't got a welder or access to one a bung might work.






Make bridge with a piece of flat bar bent and drilled to suit.
Or do the same with a disc of stainless.


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## [email protected] (4/7/14)

Thanks for the ideas guys. Much appreciated


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## Tex083 (4/7/14)

If its ruined let me know im thinking of getting rid of my keg boiler, has a hole for tap and element. Could be included in the sale if required.


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## browndog (4/7/14)

Get some sheet. S/S is best but you could use aluminium or anything, cut two pieces slightly bigger than the hole and shape one to the outside and one to the inside, drill a hole through the center of them for a nut and bolt then give them a smear of fish tank grade silicone and bolt them in place. Easy.


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## stevemc32 (4/7/14)

Take it to a local welding joint and offer them $20 to patch it up. It'll probably take 10 minutes of their time and you're done.


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## Helles (4/7/14)

Im thinking the local welding joint will be giving you a price to do it not vice versa


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## stevemc32 (4/7/14)

Yep, that could very well be the case and if it's a stupid price go to the next one.


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## Eagleburger (4/7/14)

mount a temp probe for your PID


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## pk.sax (4/7/14)

Further to elcarter's suggestion.

Make the hole just large enough to pass through a ss socket. Sit it in there just enough to cover the curve and get it welded both sides.

Then plug or use a reducing bush to mount a Thermowell.

Alternatively, use the weld it stuff with a plug straight into the hole.


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## [email protected] (5/7/14)

Since I'm pretty useless on the tools I think I'm just going to take it to a local welder and get them to fix it. Thanks again for all the suggestions guys. I especially liked the illustrations. What a great resource AHB is


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## [email protected] (5/7/14)

Just in case you were wondering this is what I have done for now until I can get it welded. The bung seems to be holding well and no leaks so far. Can anyone see a problem with this?


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## stevemc32 (5/7/14)

Reckon that'll do it.


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## hotmelt (5/7/14)

Looks like you could just put a bolt through the bung with washers either side and just tighten it up and it would be compressed to seal up more securely.


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## elcarter (6/7/14)

[email protected] said:


> Have no idea what that means.....


Pictures do help, below is a hex nipple. These are the cheapest way to add a port to any stainless vessel ~$5. The hex part give a good base to weld to. The cap is just there til you find a use for the hole.

The long stiky thing is a PTI 100 temp probe that's a scientific device that will allow you to measure temperature to an incredibly accurate level when calibrated and combined with a PID controller. Useful for controlling a heating element to make precise hot water for tea or beer. Or as I called it "wank".


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## [email protected] (6/7/14)

Thanks Elcater, I'm picking up what ur puttin down now


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