# BIAB Witbier / Blanche / Belgian Wheat Beer 2 (ph, salts, fermentation temp...)



## Hez (2/1/18)

Hi,
Last year I made my first Witbier (belgian style wheat beer), I was quite happy with the result and it was very successful, everyone who tasted loved it, but let's be honest, it wasn't a very good beer. It was too silky/oily, not acidic enough, not dry enough and a little bland (I was too cautious with the spices).
Original post: https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/biab-witbier-blanche-belgian-wheat-beer.96040/

So for my next version I will:
- reduce the amount of flaked oats (too oily)
- adapt it to my new efficiency 
- increase a tiny little bit the spices (without going too crazy, still subtle, keep in mind I'm using fresh peel wich is heavier than the dry one and chinese coriander which has much less aroma than the indian one, but that's what I have).
- use East Kent Goldings instead of the usual hops for this beer. This is not an improvement, it's just because that's what I have right now in the fridge and I want to use them... this beer is not hoppy, they are only for bitterness, I know "thinking all hops for bitterness are the same is ludicrous", but with the spices and this yeast I don't think they won't leave any noticeable aroma at all and even if they did, they are from the same family as the noble hops and the styrian goldings, so... whatever...
- added the water adjustments (new!)
- added the fermentation temperature control (new!)

P.S. I use an immersion chiller discarding the first bucket of water and recirculating with a pond pump to the coldest I can and then transfer to the fermenter and finish chilling into the fridge before pitching the yeast. This time I plan on keeping the spices inside the kettle (using a hop sock) until I transfer the wort to the fermenter. Last time I removed them just after boil.


So... my questions are about the "new" stuff for me:
1.- Do you think this water adjustments are alright? 
2.- Do you think the fermentation temp is alright?
3.- What would you change (from all the recipe)?


GRAIN:
50% Flaked wheat
45% Pilsner
5% Flaked Oats

12L batch (including trub)
75% efficiency
SRM: 3.48 ; EBC: 6.85
Preboil OG: 1.032
OG: 1.050
FG: 1.014 -> ABV: 4.73%
FG: 1.012 -> ABV: 5.09%


BOIL:
60' 12g East Kent Goldings 5.1%AA
10' 1.1g Gypsum/Calcium Sulphate/CaSO4 
10' 0.8g Calcium Chloride/CaCl2
05' 10g fresh seville orange peel
05' 5g fresh grapefruit peel
05' 10g chinese coriander (roasted and crushed)

IBU: 15.21 


MASH:
30' at 48.8º (protein rest) 
60' at 66º (saccharification)
10' at 75.5º (mash out)
Sparge at 75.5º


FERMENT:
Belgian Wit Ale Yeast WLP400 74-78% Low-Med 19.5ºC-23.3ºC Medium
20º for 3 days -> 22º until finish


WATER ADJUSTMENTS:
Add Gypsum/Calcium Sulphate/CaSO4, Calcium Chloride/CaCl2 and Lactic Acid 88% to mash and sparge water to:

Ca: 66 <- Palmer's recommended range 50-150
Mg: 23 <- Palmer's recommended range 10-30
Na: 16 <- Palmer's recommended range 0-150
Cl: 71 <- Palmer's recommended range 0-250
SO4: 79 <- Palmer's recommended range 50-350
Cl to SO4 Ratio: 0,90 <- .77 to 1.3 = Balanced 
Estimated pH (room temp): 5,32 <- Palmer's recommended range 5.4-5.6


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## Dan Pratt (2/1/18)

mash it dryer at 63c for 60mins which will dry it out and carbonate it to 3.5% volumes which balances the dryness.


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## Coodgee (2/1/18)

all looks pretty good really. I find wits to be a fairly easy style to brew actually. To be honest you might need to adjust your expectations of a wit a little bit. When was the last time you had a hoegaarden? They don't really taste like much except for the flavour and aroma coming from the yeast and a little bit of spice. I find the underlying beer is neither crisp nor malty really.

If you get the plain old Hoyts whole coriander seeds from coles or woolies they do the job quite nicely. No need to roast them. I just crush them up a little bit and 11 grams.

The water adjustments are important for the fact that you need to be careful with extracting tannins from the grain with such a light coloured beer. I like to get my mash to pH 5.2 and sparge water to under pH 5.5. I tend to go pretty easy on the sparging and stop early.

drink it as soon as it's carbonated.

and carbonate the F out of it 

just some thoughts.


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## Hez (2/1/18)

Coodgee said:


> all looks pretty good really. I find wits to be a fairly easy style to brew actually. To be honest you might need to adjust your expectations of a wit a little bit. When was the last time you had a hoegaarden? They don't really taste like much except for the flavour and aroma coming from the yeast and a little bit of spice. I find the underlying beer is neither crisp nor malty really.
> 
> If you get the plain old Hoyts whole coriander seeds from coles or woolies they do the job quite nicely. No need to roast them. I just crush them up a little bit and 11 grams.
> 
> ...


Last week! I LOVE wibiers! Somebody told me at hoergaarden they use a ridiculous amount of spices (ridiculous=very little) and they have a lot of citrus flavour (not so much aroma).
I think it's not directly proportional the amount of beer with the amount of spices or maybe they do something different than just throwing them at 5' into the kettle. But last time I used 0.6g/L of coriander and 1g/L of fresh mixed 2/3 orange and 1/3 grapefruit peel for a 10l batch (I do " half batches") and my beer didn't have that much flavour.

I've tried several feral white (Witbier) and they are very different one from another, they are not consistent. I had one which was like drinking lemonade and another even more bland than mine.
I had one supposedly Witbier at 4pines and it was a stupid version of a light hefeweizen with Mellon or something like that. Their hefeweizen is way better, don't bother with their Witbier, is total bullshit. Exactly the same happens with the hunter valley brewery, pots or whatever... That's not a Witbier, for God's shake!

Maybe it happens like with the hoppy beers, you loose the aroma with the oxidation and that's why fermented under pressure and kegged or professionally bottled beer has much more flavour/aroma...
But on the other hand I know if you use too much of them you get secondary off flavours (celery and ham?)

I used to drink a lot of a Blanche (on tap) from the north of france when I worked in the French Pyrenees and it was amazing, that's what I would like to replicate but I don't remember the name... I asked my friends back then but nobody does, it was just "la Blanche" [emoji22] well maybe it wasn't so good and it is my memory and me idealizing it because they were better times...
I remember it was crisp, acidic, dry, very light colour and hazy, almost white, and it tasted a lot like lemon.

About the carbonation I use long neck brown bottles and last time I carbonated to 3.2 with no problem , I know it works but I don't want more risk..

Thanks for the advice, I guess I shouldnt be so demanding with this one.. i hope version 2 is better than version one and I hope number 3 is even better!


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## Hez (2/1/18)

Dan Pratt said:


> mash it dryer at 63c for 60mins which will dry it out and carbonate it to 3.5% volumes which balances the dryness.


63℃!!! That's very low! Should I expect lower fg? How low?1010? 1008?


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## Coodgee (2/1/18)

Hez said:


> About the carbonation I use long neck brown bottles and last time I carbonated to 3.2 with no problem , I know it works but I don't want more risk..



I think bottles make for a better wit than kegging so you have got that in your favour. Unless you've got chilled taps it's hard to pour a good wit without getting a glass of foam. I've seen many bar girls struggle with it even with glycol chilled taps. It makes me cry watching them pour half the keg down the sink trying to pour a schooner! 

Just to throw a spanner in your works, the last wit I did was with a French Saison yeast (wyeast 3711) and it was beautiful. It won my local club's annual competition for the wheat and farmhouse category - and it was entered as a wit. You have to be really careful with this yeast and bottling though. It tends to slowly keep fermenting right down to 1.000. I kegged mine at 1.010 and it full carbonated the keg without any CO2 or added sugar in a couple of days. After that I chilled it down to stop it.


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## Hez (2/1/18)

Coodgee said:


> I think bottles make for a better wit than kegging so you have got that in your favour. Unless you've got chilled taps it's hard to pour a good wit without getting a glass of foam. I've seen many bar girls struggle with it even with glycol chilled taps. It makes me cry watching them pour half the keg down the sink trying to pour a schooner!
> 
> Just to throw a spanner in your works, the last wit I did was with a French Saison yeast (wyeast 3711) and it was beautiful. It won my local club's annual competition for the wheat and farmhouse category - and it was entered as a wit. You have to be really careful with this yeast and bottling though. It tends to slowly keep fermenting right down to 1.000. I kegged mine at 1.010 and it full carbonated the keg without any CO2 or added sugar in a couple of days. After that I chilled it down to stop it.


My previous previous beer was a saison and it took forever to ferment... But yes, it is very dry!


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## Dan Pratt (2/1/18)

Hez said:


> 63℃!!! That's very low! Should I expect lower fg? How low?1010? 1008?



Yes the lower mash will result in a lower FG. My Belgian Witbier back in August was mashed at 63c for 90mins, went from 1043 to 1006 giving a 4.8% ABV. The wheat mouthfeel and high carbonation will balance out the thin FG


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## Hez (3/1/18)

I've modified my recipe for:
- adding more spices (because I'm using fresh peel instead of dry and chinese instead of indian coriander seeds and also I don't think the proportion scales up directly, I think the smaller the batch, the bigger the proportion)
- reducing the mash temp (for a dryer beer),
- reducing the OG (lower mash temp -> lower FG, I'd like it to be in the 5-5.5%ABV)
- reducing the the hops (15IBU)

I always count with 2L of trub for the trub itself plus other losses (hydrometer, lost in transfer, etc.) I hate to be 1 or 2 bottles short! :S

I planned on brewing it this weekend but eventually I won't be able to, so I hope I can do it next week. I'll keep you updated!

Thank you all for your help.

redoing the recipe, see next post


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## Hez (3/1/18)

OH! NO! Just after making all the calculations to finish the recipe I re-read this article (I had read it the first time I did the witbier) and now...

https://byo.com/article/witbier-style-profile/ (luckily still free to read, byo is suscription based from now on, 30$US a year! :S)

They say to use 5% of munich / aromatic malt, what do you think? should I try? This could use some tiny maltiness... hoergaarden has this.
I think I could easily replace a 5% of the pilsner with belgian aromatic malt, I wouldn't need to modify anything else on the recipe.

About the orange/zest/peel it recommends the fresh one but much more than I use! 27 - 52g / 19L batch! with 15g for the 10+2L batch I'm right on the low end. About the coriander it says if it fresh you should use 11g/19L batch, so I think I'm right on the money with my chinese-open-6months-ago one.

It also says to go to 20IBU, but I think 15IBU is more than enough. Last time I did 15IBU and it was perfect and if I'm drying it out with the low mash temp... (the article calls for 68º for mashing!)

I'm doubting again!

Yes, I think I'm going to add the 5% of aromatic malt...

I've been also reading about the protein rest, how it's neccessary for unmalted grains (flaked wheat and roller oats in this recipe) but it has an adverse effect on highly modified malts like the Weyermann Pilsner I plan on using:
http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/how-the-mash-works/the-protein-rest-and-modification
Apparently it breaks the proteins leading to a worse head retention and less body.
So I'd like this beer to be reasonably dry but not crazy dry, it is suposed to have a slightly sweetness... maybe I should settle the mash temperature to 65º. So maybe I should do the protein rest only with the wheat and oats, and throw in the pilsner and the aromatic malt when it's around 66º (compensate with the grain at room temp).

I will re-do the recipe again...


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## manticle (3/1/18)

I'd consider aromatic but would not go for munich in this style.


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## mondestrunken (3/1/18)

Original malt bill looks good - keep it simple! Orange/spices look good too.
Personally I use Saaz for bittering. I know bittering addition is not supposed to affect flavour but it tends to add a touch of pepper, which I think complements the rest of the flavours.

My favourite yeast for this is Fermentis T-58. Some like to trash this yeast but I find it works well in a wit.


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## manticle (3/1/18)

Bittering hop can absolutely affect flavour, especially in simple beers with little to no late hops.


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## manticle (3/1/18)

Hez said:


> OH! NO! Just after making all the calculations to finish the recipe I re-read this article (I had read it the first time I did the witbier) and now...
> 
> https://byo.com/article/witbier-style-profile/ (luckily still free to read, byo is suscription based from now on, 30$US a year! :S)
> 
> ...


Without the malted barley, the protein rest won’t affect the oats, etc unless they’re malted. The rest is to optimise certain enzymes present in the malt.

Look at beta glucan rest and maybe short 5-10 min rest at 55 and again at 72 (as bookends to your main mash).


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## Hez (3/1/18)

manticle said:


> Without the malted barley, the protein rest won’t affect the oats, etc unless they’re malted. The rest is to optimise certain enzymes present in the malt.
> 
> Look at beta glucan rest and maybe short 5-10 min rest at 55 and again at 72 (as bookends to your main mash).


So you recommend to:
10' 55℃
60' 65℃
10' 72℃
10' 76℃ (mash out)
?


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## Hez (3/1/18)

manticle said:


> Bittering hop can absolutely affect flavour, especially in simple beers with little to no late hops.


I know... but with the spices and the strong yeast flavour... And remember I'm using east kent Golding's, not citra or Amarillo, if it contributes with flavour it is welcome!


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## manticle (3/1/18)

Yes but switch 55 to 5 mins. And - chuck in a rest around 45 deg C for 10- 15 first. Beta Glucan as mentioned above.


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## manticle (3/1/18)

Hez said:


> I know... but with the spices and the strong yeast flavour... And remember I'm using east kent Golding's, not citra or Amarillo, if it contributes with flavour it is welcome!




I absolutely agree- the fact that bittering imparts flavour is a good thing as long as you use the right hop. Don’t stick chinook in a wit and expect it to be invisible.


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## Hez (3/1/18)

manticle said:


> Yes but switch 55 to 5 mins. And - chuck in a rest around 45 deg C for 10- 15 first. Beta Glucan as mentioned above.


So you recommend to:
15' 45℃
5' 55℃
60' 65℃
10' 72℃
10' 76℃ (mash out)
?


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## Hez (3/1/18)

manticle said:


> I absolutely agree- the fact that bittering imparts flavour is a good thing as long as you use the right hop. Don’t stick chinook in a wit and expect it to be invisible.


Luckily I already finished all my Chinook ... [emoji14]
But hey, I did a guiness clone without any clue of making beer (it was my 3rd beer ever) with Chinook and it turned out great! Jejeje

I said that about the bittering hops because I know east kent Golding's is not the typical thing to use on a witbier


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## manticle (3/1/18)

Hez said:


> So you recommend to:
> 15' 45℃
> 5' 55℃
> 60' 65℃
> ...



Yes. But mash out 78-80.


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## Hez (3/1/18)

manticle said:


> Yes. But mash out 78-80.


Are you messing with me or what? Jajaja

So..

15' 45℃
5' 55℃
60' 65℃
10' 72℃
10' 78℃ (mash out)

Is that it?


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## manticle (3/1/18)

Bang


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## Hez (3/1/18)

manticle said:


> Bang


Thank you!


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## Hez (4/1/18)

According with BYO (lucky! another public-link!):
https://byo.com/article/the-science-of-step-mashing/

This is the table of mash steps:





So we would be doing:

15' 45℃ Beta-Glucanase (also Phytase?)
5' 55℃ Peptidase/Proteinase ?
60' 65℃ Beta-amylase
10' 72℃ ??? <-- to be Alpha-amylase it should be <71ºC, isn't it?
10' 78℃ Mash out <-- passed the Alpha-amylase denaturalization!

The article also includes some examples of common mash programs:
















So what you suggest is similar to the Cover All the Bases Step-Mash Program:
5' 35ºC Phytase
10' 45ºC Beta-glucanase
15' 57.2ºC Proteinase
20' 62.7ºC Beta-amylase
25' 67.7ºC Alpha-amylase
5' 75.5ºC Mash out <-- within alpha-amylase range

I would like to read this one: https://byo.com/article/the-best-mash-program/ but bad luck... restricted area... 
I need to study more about this too!! maybe I'd subscribe to BYO...


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## manticle (4/1/18)

71- 72 is glycopretein but will also hit alpha.

Your regime looks good.


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## Coodgee (4/1/18)

I do 40 degrees for 20 minutes, 68 degrees for 60 minutes and 76 for 10. the 40 degrees is the beta-glucanase rest to stop the oats gumming up the mash. that's for a 10% oats grain bill.


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## Hez (4/1/18)

manticle said:


> 71- 72 is glycopretein but will also hit alpha.
> 
> Your regime looks good.



Don't get me wrong, I will stick to the mash program you told me, I just wanted to know the names and the purpose of every step.
For me it's not enough to have a procedure, I need to know and understand why, the reason behind. I guess you will get tired of telling me the answer to my questions everytime.... jeje

Thank you very much!


There's a guy at my office who always does that. I am an analyst (expert in our system) and I'm suposed to give the answers, so if he has a problem, without even trying to find a solution, he asks me. I tell him what to do, how to do it and what's the reason for that, he says ok ok thank you but he never takes notes or learns sh*t, for him it's just a problem solved. Next time he finds the same problem he doesn't have a clue and he asks me again. I get angry but in the end I do it again and again and again...


P.S.
https://www.winning-homebrew.com/enzymes-in-beer.html
http://beerandwinejournal.com/mash-out-options/

Mash program explained:
15' at 45º (Beta-glucanase: avoid unmalted grain gumming up)
5' at 55º (Proteinase: enhances the head retention and reduce haze / Peptidase: release yeast nutrients)
60' at 65º (Saccharification/Beta-amylase/Alpha-amylase: extract main fermentable sugars)
10' at 72º (Glyco-protein: stabilize head/foam /Alpha-amylase extract more fermentable sugars)
10' at 78º (Mash out: ease up drain and wash the grain)
Sparge at 78º (wash the grain, improve efficiency)

P.P.S. Do you think is it worth to add the malted grain after the first step or it doesn't matter? I've read the beta-glucanase rest is counter productive on highly modified malts like the Weyermann Pilsner I will use :S But if I tell my homebrew supplier to make two bags of grain he will probably laugh at me


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## Coodgee (4/1/18)

I don't think it's counter-productive _enough _to add the malted grain after the b-g rest.


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## manticle (4/1/18)

You need the beta glucanase enzymes from the malt to work on the beta glucans in the cereals.


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## Hez (22/1/18)

I finally brewed it on saturday. 
In the end I decided to cut down in half the amount of aromatic malt, so I did: 

50% unmalted wheat (flaked)
42.5% pilsner
5% rolled oats
2.5% aromatic malt

I increased the amount of sparge water from my last brew so the thickness of the mash (before sparge) or liquor-to-grist-ratio was a little over 4 (volume of strike water (L)/grain weight (kg)), which is just the top of the recommended ratio (2-4).https://byo.com/article/managing-mash-thickness/
The idea was to increase the amount of sparge water to wash totally the grain and I think I got it (see efficiency below) but I hope I didn't take more not-fermentable sugars or tannings...
Next time I'll adjust this this liquour-to-grist-ratio to just under 4, just in case.

I measured the PH with my totally unrealiable ph strips and I had around 5.6-5.7 so I added 1.5ml more of lactic acid and I'm not sure if I saw any change in the color of the strip but... whatever. I let it be. I trust more the calculations than those strips. Maybe I should borrow a PH meter to check them... anyone close to north sydney / mosman? jejeje

The only thing is, I must have counted wrong the amount of water because I had 1L more than I calculated! 
Apart from that, everything went pretty smooth step by step. I managed to cool it down from boiling temp to 24º in ~40' and then I moved it to the fermenter, shaked it to areate for 3' or so, put it into the fermentation fridge until it was at 20ºC and pitched the yeast then. 

In the end I got just over 1050 FG, 2 points more than expected. The sample was really really turbid/muddy. With my APA it was similar so I took a bigger sample, let it settle down (decant) , I repeated the hydrometer test only with the "clear" part and I got 2 points less, so I guess if we do the cross multiplication here, the FG 1050 would be 1048 in reality, which gives me an astonishing (for me) 80% efficiency!! Would it be the ceiling/maximum of the BIAB technique? Is not that I'm obsessed with efficiency, it's just a number, but it's also the inidication that I'm doing things better...

- OFFTOPIC -
I'm reading:
_ "How to Brew. Everything you need to know to brew great beer every time" (John J. Palmer, 4th edition)_
And it's really really good. so far I've only read the extract brewing part and I've learnt some stuff I can use, let's see what I learn when I read the real deal (all grain)


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## Hez (31/1/18)

Yesterday I bottled.
The FG was 1010 so... 5.25% ABV, righ on the money!

The color was right and I got 11L of beer. I calculated it for 10L but I don't know when I did a mistake and added 1L extra... anyway, all good.

I drunk the beer from the hydrometer and I don't know why but it has a burnt-rubber taste I don't like, I've checked the off flavours and it says it could be caused by:
- Water chlorination: I used Sydney water which has very little and never had this issue. 
- Fast temperature changes: it was in the fermenter fridge with the controler so no changes (until a brief 12hours "cold crash" to 3ºC rigth before bottling)
- Bacteria/wild yeast: I sanitized everything as I always do with starsan-like sanitizer and never had an infection, could it be this one?!?!
- Yeast issues: (old yeast) I bought the white labs witbier yeast from my homebrew supplier 2 days before brewday and it went from his fridge to mine in less than 20', it can't be that...

I bottled anyway and put the bottles back to the fermenter fridge to bottle condition at 20º, but I'm worried...
Some years ago I had a blanche de bruges with this exact flavour and to be honest I thought it wasn't good, could it be due to the spices? The aromatic malt? (I used 65g = 2.5% of the grain bill) 
:S:S:S


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## Hez (31/1/18)

by the way, I washed the orange and the grapefruit thoroughly with soap and rinsed them very very well


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## Hez (31/1/18)

I've read it could be:
- sulphur -> dip copper to avoid it (during the boil), unfortunately my chiller is not copper 
- autolysis -> no way, my beer was only 10 days in the fermenter!
- lack of nitrogen -> use yeast nutrient??
- white part of the peel -> impossible, i peeled it with my sharpest knife and i got 0.0000% white
- wrong kind of orange -> it could be, last time I used seville orange, this time I used naval
- sanitizer -> i used 5ml of startsan-like sanitizer for 2L of water, maybe I left too much foam inside? should I dilute the mix a little more??

Most people talk about burnt rubber smell, but in my case is not smell is taste!
Other people say it's because of the dead yeast, in that case, after 2 weeks of conditioning into the bottle, if I pour the beer leaving a little behind, it should be right... ??? :s:s


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## EalingDrop (31/1/18)

Hez, you might want to bring it to our next brew meet for an observation. Might be something else that's causing the mystery flavour. You're in Mosman? Look up FRBC brew club, we're in Naremburn. Next meet is 14 Feb (yes, you'll need to sort this out with your missus....good luck...haha)


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## Dan Pratt (31/1/18)

Hez said:


> by the way, I washed the orange and the grapefruit thoroughly with soap and rinsed them very very well



You washed the fruit with soap. WTF!! 

So after you rinsed them did the micro pores magically rinse themselves.


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## goatchop41 (31/1/18)

Hez said:


> - sanitizer -> i used 5ml of startsan-like sanitizer for 2L of water, maybe I left too much foam inside? should I dilute the mix a little more??



It likely won't have caused your flavour issue, but you should dilute that down a bit more. Most phosphoric sanitisers are 1.5ml per L of water, so your mix is almmost double strength

Also, are you sure that the burnt rubber smell isn't just how you are experiencing the esters and phenols from the yeast? I've had a couple of friends who haven't really dabbled in Belgian type beers describe both a saison and belgian blonde that I made with a similar taste to what you're describing. I (and other friends who enjoy Belgians) just found them to be very expressive of the expected yeast character


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## MHB (1/2/18)

gJust for fun I went and looked at the recipe for Hoegaarden in "Brew Classic European Beers at Home" Wheeler and Protz.
Pierre Celis was never too forthcoming on the subject of how he brewed, but Protz visited the brewery often enough to have a pretty good idea of what was going on.
I think you're over thinking the beer a bit, see what they had to say -




And for gods sake spend the $0.60 (at my LHBS) to put the proper Coriander and Bitter Orange - they make a big difference to the beer.
One other possible modification would be to add all the wheat, oats and some of the malt to a pot and heat it slowly with about 2.5:1 water from ambient to about 70oC, then add the balance of your pale malt and water to get you to the recommended mashing temperature (note 90 minute mash). Better yet do a fully designed cereal mash.
People tend to think enzymes turn on and off like a switch - wrong this is old-school analogue. Enzymes are all active from ambient from just above freezing until they die!
From Kunze




So by slowly heating you go through all the various enzymes (including several most people don't even recognise (there are over 20 active in the 20-70oC range)) Ideally heat at a rate of rise of 0.5oC/minute.
Mark


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## Coodgee (1/2/18)

^ that book just casually recommends a "top fermenting" yeast? The reader-brewer might be disappointed with this results if he used US05.


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## MHB (1/2/18)

Been talked about before - the book predated the wide availability of specific yeasts. Naturally you would opt for the Hoegaarden Yeast if you could get it.
My point is that one of the most likely to be right resources available recommends a very simple brewing procedure, malt and hop bill - even an isothermal mash, I believe we are more likely to get the beer we want if we start with a very simple close to original recipe/process, get that right then develop it in the direction we want.
Mark


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