# Ball Valves



## Busboy (11/12/06)

Hi Guys,

I've decided to start on the slippery slope to all-grain brewing. So far, I've bought a large esky for the mash tun and a large aluminium pot (60l). My problem is, where can I buy a couple of ball valves. Bunnings didn't seem to have much of a range.

Any help would be appreciated. Cheers!


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## blackbock (11/12/06)

Busboy said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I've decided to start on the slippery slope to all-grain brewing. So far, I've bought a large esky for the mash tun and a large aluminium pot (60l). My problem is, where can I buy a couple of ball valves. Bunnings didn't seem to have much of a range.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. Cheers!



Apart from getting them from specialist stainless suppliers, you could try an irrigation or pump shop - they usually don't rip you off too badly - at least my local one doesn't...

:beer:


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## DJR (11/12/06)

Bunnings ones are OK but look elsewhere for a better one. Reese sell 3 piece stainless ones that are the duck's nuts, not too pricey (about $30 from memory or less if you talk nicely to the trade desk). I just use a nickel plated DR brass valve from Bunnings though, does the job fine and will only cost me $9 if i need a new one :beerbang:

Whitworths is also good if you want to look online, try this http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdeta...tAbsolutePage=2


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## sah (11/12/06)

Busboy said:


> My problem is, where can I buy a couple of ball valves. Bunnings didn't seem to have much of a range.



I bought 3 x 15mm dia. ball gate valves from bunnings. They're nickel plated brass. I think the ball is another material. It's very shiny. These have been working well in my HLT, mash tun and kettle. In fact, I got all of the bits to convert the esky and kegs from bunnings.

The other hidden plumbing bits included one each of those long male nipples for the HLT & kettle. They get hack sawed up into sections for where they're needed. Bulk head fittings to secure fibre washers either side of the hole and keep the whole assembly in place. A compression fitting to attach the pickup tube to the nipple. And of course some plumbing tape.

I've also fitted a site tube to the keg using an elbow with a 15mm male thread with a bulk head on the inside of the kettle. The tube is just clear PVC tube. It's hose clamped to a short length of copper pipe which I had soldered into the elbow. It is kept upright and rigid with the original pick-up tube from inside the keg. I used the angle grinder to remove a section the old pick-up tube so I can see the PVC tube.

I've done a similar thing with the HLT except I used an union T piece instead of the elbow and a section of nipple and a bulk head to secure it to the keg. A mash master thermometer slots into horizontal section of the T-piece.

Let me know if you need photos. 

Good luck with getting your kit together.

regards
Scott

ps. I forgot to mention that I used brass garden hose quick disconnects too.


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## smashed jaffa (11/12/06)

Busboy said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I've decided to start on the slippery slope to all-grain brewing. So far, I've bought a large esky for the mash tun and a large aluminium pot (60l). My problem is, where can I buy a couple of ball valves. Bunnings didn't seem to have much of a range.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. Cheers!







I got mine from Reece. They are not 3 peice but do a great job stainless too. The brand is Dura, they had to get them in for me, a week but $13.80 plus nails. I think I've got the receipt somewhere here with the product code if you're interested.

Cheers,

SJ

Edit: Crappy phone photo!


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## Adamt (11/12/06)

Found my ball valves at one Mitre 10, but most of the stores don't stock them. About $10 a piece if I recall.


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## tdh (11/12/06)

sah, I'd like a photo please.

tdh


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## Busboy (12/12/06)

Thanks to all for your quick replies. There is a Reece shop nearby;I'll check it out tomorrow.

sah, your set-up sounds interesting, although I am having a bit of trouble visualising it. A couple of photos would be great. Thanks.


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## hockadays (12/12/06)

Prochem is the go,

Stainless and not much dearer then the bunnings ones.


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## sah (12/12/06)

Here are the photos. Remember all kit was bought at the local hardware store.




Hot liquor tank.




Female T-piece union. There is a nipple (male threaded pipe) that goes through the keg wall. The thermometer screws directly into the union. Note that the male thread on the thermometer is NPT and the female thread in the union is BSP. I've not had any problems with that connection. Into the top of the union is a little fitting that has a male thread that screws into the union. On the other end is a fitting to accept a 15mm copper pipe. It needs to be soldered. Over the copper pipe some clear PVC tube is slotted, then the modified pick-up tube from inside the keg, then a hose clamp to hold these two in place.

The modification to the pick-up tube is simply to cut it to length so when it place I can still turn the keg upside down and sit it on the ground. Then angle grind a slot along its length stopping just short at the top end. The slot continues through the other end. This provides enough movement in the tube for the hose clamp to be effective.




Close up of site tube assembly. I've marked for each litre with a permanent marker.




This is a picture of where the site tube and thermometer assembly fix to the inside of the keg. A fibre washer and bulk head screw over the nipple. The stainless rod through the centre is the thermometer probe.

More to follow, maybe this evening.

regards
Scott


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## bugwan (12/12/06)

Top idea Scott! I've been considering the best way to combine these two indicators (temp/volume). I love that they are in the same place, so a quick glance tells you everything at once.

Looks like a nice simple solution, cheers.
Dave


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## redbeard (12/12/06)

http://www.tsvalves.com.au/contactus.html

prochem (might have miniumum order)

some stainless shop on taren pt road, caringbah (sorry cant find name)


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## sah (12/12/06)

bugwan said:


> Top idea Scott! I've been considering the best way to combine these two indicators (temp/volume). I love that they are in the same place, so a quick glance tells you everything at once.
> 
> Looks like a nice simple solution, cheers.



I liked that it means one less hole in the keg and it does away with a few other plumbing bits.

regards
Scott


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## Hubby (12/12/06)

Nice work, sah!

Busboy, there's some info on stainless fittings here too: Ss Tubing, Ball Valves And Misc. Fittings.


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## Aaron (12/12/06)

Just go to any plumbing supply place they should have them. I wouldn't be super concerned about stainless over the brass ones. Stainless is nicer and prettier but if you are on a budget I don't believe it is a big deal.

I do recommend three piece valves though. After the first time you pull it apart you will think in horror about the one you used and couldn't take apart for 12 months.


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## Kai (12/12/06)

Very clever, sah. and i echo aaron; if i wasn't on dialup and typing with my mouse right now, I'd post a photo or two of a 3-piece.


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## ntboozer (12/12/06)

Busboy said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I've decided to start on the slippery slope to all-grain brewing. So far, I've bought a large esky for the mash tun and a large aluminium pot (60l). My problem is, where can I buy a couple of ball valves. Bunnings didn't seem to have much of a range.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated. Cheers!



Busboy,
How many are you after? I'm sure I have some 2 piece 1/2" full bore SS ball valves (very similar h34r: as listed on G&G site) tucked away in 'the shed' that are left over from my journey into AG. I'll try and dig them up tomorrow and post a pic so all can see. I'd only be looking at getting the $'s back on what they cost me (from memory $20-$25) and some postage. 
Cheers
nt
:beer:


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## sah (12/12/06)

Ok, here is a picture of the tap.




From right to left, a brass garden hose snap lock male fitting, onto a nipple with a hexagonal spanner grip section in the middle, into a ball gate valve, this one I think is an NPT gas valve (it works just as well as BSP), onto a nipple which runs through the keg wall, secured on the outside by a bulk head fitting.




This is the inside of the pick-up tube for my HLT. A nipple extends through the wall of the keg secured by a bulk head fitting, a compression fitting secures a bent 15mm pipe onto the nipple.




This is the inside of my kettle. It's similar to the HLT however you might notice that the bottom of the keg has been inverted. I banged and banged and banged it with a lump hammer. The idea is the hot break and any other trub settles to the sides and I pick up the wort from the top of the dome. Additionally it gives better efficiency to heating the kettle. I'm not sure it's worth it. A tube that picks up from half way up the concave section would probably be as good.




This is a picture of the elbow that the site tube for the kettle is attached to. It's one of those fittings that is designed to be screwed to a wall stud or nogging. A cistern or washing maching cock would normally attach to it. It has a male thread which is fed through the keg and secured with a bulk head on each side. It has a socket where a short section of 15mm copper pipe is soldered in place. As with the HLT a PVC tube is slotted over the copper pipe, then the old pickup tube is slotted over the top of the PVC tube and they're both held in place with a hose clamp. One of the support fixing holes is damaged in this example from the oxy-acetaline torch.




This is a picture on the inside of the keg for the site tube assembly on the kettle. 




This is a picture of the site tube on the kettle.




This is a picture looking into my HLT, the \hose I use for transferring from my HLT to mash tun then to kettle is sitting on top. Again all hardware store materials.

If you are wondering what the difference between british standard pipe thread (BSP) and national pipe thread (NPT) is. Well the later is a US standard. BSP is a parallel thread, the gap between each grove or ridge is equal. NPT is a tapering thread, the gap between each thread or grove from outside in gets smaller and smaller. The advantage with NPT is that a tight seal can be made and you can probably not bother with silicon tape. It is often used in Australia for gas fittings.

Anyway I hope this helps even though it's in an off topic thread. I probably should have put this in a thread of its own.

All the best.

Scott


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## Browntown (22/6/11)

redbeard said:


> http://www.tsvalves.com.au/contactus.html
> 
> prochem (might have miniumum order)
> 
> some stainless shop on taren pt road, caringbah (sorry cant find name)



"The Stainless Shop"
170 Taren Point Rd,
Taren Point


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## Amber Fluid (22/6/11)

I reckon he has found it by now. Gee I hope so after 5 years of searching.


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## whippee (22/6/11)

haha! nice one


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## keifer33 (22/6/11)

Its like The Lord of the Rings but for ball valves. Its a long walk....


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