# Dry Hopping - when, how much and how?



## New_guy

I am keen to dry hop my next brew

From reading the main points i have found are:
Dry hop for 3-5 days near end of fermentation
Dry hop at a rate of 1gm/litre
If cold conditioning (I am) throw hops into FV
Hop variety should be an aromatic one not bittering
Dry hopping 20gms of cascade into 20lt of IPA thats just about finsihed up the US05 should do the trick?

Am I in the right track?


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## Cocko

Sounds like you have it spot on to me, mate.

Definitely use an 'aroma' hop - the US C hops are great on the nose - Cascade Centennial etc.. plenty of them - but yeah, you have it spot on.

So, 1-2g/L should see you in good aroma. I put mine in a coffee mug and boil the kettle [Coffee making type, not your Brew Kettle] Cover/fill the hops in the mug with boiling water. 2 reasons, to activate the hops and sanitise them a little, any risk is a risk. Then just dump the green slurry in the FV!! I usually wait 4 days into ferment, sometimes just dump then in when tipping the cube... You will find 'your' way to do it.

Yes, throw them in the FV, they will drop out and if you are cold conditioning/Crash chilling, even better.

Is your IPA have another 4 days in FV? I would allow about 4 days for the hops to drop, in particular, the yeast activity may be slower and the hops have no guidance to drop with their new found friends.....

In short - dump 'em now - do a D Rest - for 3 days - Crash chill for at least 3 - sorted. 

5c. [Metric and all]


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## indica86

I used Vic Secret and also Summer... mm lovely, so not always American hops, there are some great aussie ones.
Why not try some different theories? Start of ferment, middle and end.


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## New_guy

Cocko said:


> Sounds like you have it spot on to me, mate.
> 
> Definitely use an 'aroma' hop - the US C hops are great on the nose - Cascade Centennial etc.. plenty of them - but yeah, you have it spot on.
> 
> So, 1-2g/L should see you in good aroma. I put mine in a coffee mug and boil the kettle [Coffee making type, not your Brew Kettle] Cover/fill the hops in the mug with boiling water. 2 reasons, to activate the hops and sanitise them a little, any risk is a risk. Then just dump the green slurry in the FV!! I usually wait 4 days into ferment, sometimes just dump then in when tipping the cube... You will find 'your' way to do it.
> 
> Yes, throw them in the FV, they will drop out and if you are cold conditioning/Crash chilling, even better.
> 
> Is your IPA have another 4 days in FV? I would allow about 4 days for the hops to drop, in particular, the yeast activity may be slower and the hops have no guidance to drop with their new found friends.....
> 
> In short - dump 'em now - do a D Rest - for 3 days - Crash chill for at least 3 - sorted.
> 
> 5c. [Metric and all]


Cheers mate sounds good - all sorted 
I have a 40gm pack of cascade - is using the whole thing overkill?


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## New_guy

indica86 said:


> I used Vic Secret and also Summer... mm lovely, so not always American hops, there are some great aussie ones.
> Why not try some different theories? Start of ferment, middle and end.


I agree - but wanted a "textbook" procedure as a benchmark to start with then gauge from experience


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## Yob

Taste is your textbook.. Everything else matters little


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## New_guy

Yob said:


> Taste is your textbook.. Everything else matters little


There are three methods to gaining wisdom. The first is reflection, which is the highest. The second is limitation, which is the easiest. The third is experience, which is the bitterest.
Confucius


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## Cocko

New_guy said:


> Cheers mate sounds good - all sorted
> I have a 40gm pack of cascade - is using the whole thing overkill?



40g would be pretty heavy dry hopping.. not stupid but I would say for testing, start with 1g/L.

10c.


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## Three Sheets

"40g would be pretty heavy dry hopping"

Agree, I thought I was a hop head but have retreated to 20-25 grams for dry hopping.


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## goomboogo

New_guy said:


> There are three methods to gaining wisdom. The first is reflection, which is the highest. The second is limitation, which is the easiest. The third is experience, which is the bitterest.
> Confucius


Confucius must not have been a brewer because dry hopping won't add any bitterness. I wouldn't hesitate to dry hop an AIPA at 2g/litre. Although, it does depend on you're taste buds.


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## New_guy

goomboogo said:


> Confucius must not have been a brewer because dry hopping won't add any bitterness. I wouldn't hesitate to dry hop an AIPA at 2g/litre. Although, it does depend on you're taste buds.


His point exactly


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## Token

40 gm for a dry hop isn't unreasonable.


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## manticle

Hops have bittering compounds aside from alpha acids. Dry hopping won't add IBU but you may still get bitterness. Make a hop tea and tell me there's no bitterness. Chew on a hop pellet (alpha acids are not isomerised yet) and tell me there's no bitterness.


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## goomboogo

I was being facetious regarding the Confucius quote. I didn't intend it to be taken seriously. New_Guy, what commercial AIPAs have you liked? We may be able to make a guess at a dry-hopping rate based on your commercial preferences.


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## New_guy

goomboogo said:


> I was being facetious regarding the Confucius quote. I didn't intend it to be taken seriously. New_Guy, what commercial AIPAs have you liked? We may be able to make a guess at a dry-hopping rate based on your commercial preferences.


All good mate - taking the piss

Commercial favourites: 
Mornington Peninsula 
Hop Hog (what it used to be)
Sierra Nevada
Brooklyn
Tower 
Epic
Boat rocker


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## goomboogo

Looking at your commercial list, I don't think you'll find 2g/litre of Cascade in for the last 6-7 days is too much. It may be more than a couple of those beers use but the difference won't be major. A few years ago, people on this board were throwing around recipes for an Epic Pale Ale type of beer. Some of those recipes had about 4g/l litre of Cascade dry-hopped.


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## Dan Pratt

Recently dry hopped an IPA with 84g ( 3ounces ) of Seven Sea's ( all the C hops combined at 8.5%AA ) at 18c for 5days. turned a little grassy but the aroma was solid on the nose, when i tapped a beer you could smell it right away.

I have read/heard that dry hopping can be done at ferment temp and then at cold conditioning temps for a double layer of dryhopping.


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## stakka82

I used to add dry hops near the end of ferment, now I add them in CC.

The difference suprised me, both methods add something different and good, but I much prefer the CC addition as I find you get a more resiny, aromatic addition to the beer. I guess less of the volatiles are driven off by temp/yeast activity.


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## fletcher

very interesting. i might try and do both in my next IPA or pale ale - didn't realise there would be much difference but am excited to see what that might be.


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## New_guy

stakka82 said:


> I used to add dry hops near the end of ferment, now I add them in CC.
> 
> The difference suprised me, both methods add something different and good, but I much prefer the CC addition as I find you get a more resiny, aromatic addition to the beer. I guess less of the volatiles are driven off by temp/yeast activity.


Like the sound of that - I reckon I might start with dry hopping @ start of CC'ing


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## Xander

I'm reading some different things on the forums. When should I dry hop?
The guy at the brew store told me to dry hop on the third day of fermentation, but others are saying to do this in the last 3-4 days.

I think my fermentation would take about 2 weeks.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Cheers.


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## sav

Xander said:


> I'm reading some different things on the forums. When should I dry hop?
> The guy at the brew store told me to dry hop on the third day of fermentation, but others are saying to do this in the last 3-4 days.
> 
> I think my fermentation would take about 2 weeks.
> Any and all help is appreciated.
> 
> Cheers.


Mate you are better off dry hopping when ferment is slowing down. You will be surprised that a dry hop will bring a new release off oxygen too your wort. 
Sav


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## Yob

later in the ferment for best results, ive been known to dry hop during cold conditioning with good result


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## manticle

I prefer last 2-3 days of cold conditioning but I have heard people speak well of dry hopping once early in ferment and again later.
Something you need to try for yourself because preferences differ. I'd suggest 1g per litre for 2 days when the brew is chilled and work up from there if you want. Depends a little on hop choice too. Some hops don't bring nice things when added dry in my experience.


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## ///

One of the main things is not Alpha Acids, but the oils in the hops. These dissolve in an acidic environment, a fermenter beer, and dissolve quicker in a warmer beer (standard stuff). Some hops have suprising oil amounts, such as Aussie grown Cascade and Super Pride. The oils are the stable constituent for dry hopping.

We use alot of dry hops, around 5-6gm/l for our IPA for example. We go in at the 2nd day ferments have stopped (check by our lovelly Anton Par), which is also our diacetyl rest. When we get a pass on diacetyl, we rest for 2 days warm (20 odd degrees), then crash chill for 4-5 days before we pull the tank bottom and process.

Anyways, at home, it is a case of checking when activity stops, wacking in the amount for 4-5 days then racking off/and/or chilling.


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## superstock

How important is it to sink a hop bag? Eventhough I have a 25mm marble in mine it has stayed on the surface.


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## Goose

superstock said:


> How important is it to sink a hop bag? Eventhough I have a 25mm marble in mine it has stayed on the surface.


bad idea. Invites infection unless you sanitise the bag first by boiling, and in my experience significantly reduces contact with wort, ie inferior "utilisation".

unless you want to re-use the yeast cake and don't want to be arsed with washing, I'd lob them free into the fermenter at the above recommended dosage rates about 5 days from racking.


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## superstock

Bag and marble both boiled. So should put 2 x 25mm marbles to sink the next one? Want to be able to pull the hops after 4-5 days.


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## Yob

Just a tip, get some stainless fittings if you want to weight down a hop bag, much better than marbles


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## QldKev

Kittens don't weigh down the hop bag well, they always climb out the airlock


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## Gigantorus

I generally bottle at the 14 day mark and dry-hop at 7 days through to the 14th day (a full week of dry-hopping). Has always given me a good result. One thing that I was told in the beginning was to wait until fermentation was virtually finished or a lot of your hop aroma would disappear out of the fermenter with the Co2.

The one time that I have peaked inside the fermented a couple days after adding the hops I didn't see the hop bag - so believe the bag had falled to the bottom (or was somewhere in between). If the bag had sat on the top the hops would still do their work and also particles of the hops will fall out of the bag and fall to the bottom anyway. So still getting coverage.

I like using the hop bag, as I can contain the spent hop mass after bottling. Also the bag would reduce the amount of hop particle that would be in the liquid - making for a clearer liquid in the bottle. I did try using a fine tea strainer as a filter when bottling once but the hop particle was much finer and the tea strainer didn't collect anything. Also ttried using a paper coffee filter shaped in a cone to filter out hop particle when bottling, but this made the bottling process really slow - but it did work though. So if you ever have a really silty liquid you can use the paper coffee dripilator papers in a funnel on top of your bottle.

Just my experiences here.

Cheers, Pete


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## Gigantorus

Seek your advice on a related topic. Am about to do a simple 23 litre batch of Coopers Pale Ale recipe, which is:

Coopers Australian Pale Ale can
Coopers Brew Enhancer 2 (or 500g Light Dry Malt + 250g Dextrose)
I have a fair bit of hops pellets in the freezer and want to use as much of this as I can. I have:

2 x 50gram Amarillo
2 x 50gram Centennial
3 x 50gram Galaxy
2 x 50gram Citra

I like a nice hoppy beer. Have never used Centennial or Amarillo before but have been looking forward to.

Want to do a solid dry-hop on the Pale Ale. What would your suggested mix/quantity be thanks?

Cheers,

Pete


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## Dan Pratt

Thise hops make for a great combo late in the kettle and dry hopped. 

here is the link of the recipe that uses that combo, Ive made it twice and both times it was great.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24947

Do a hop burst into the back of the boil ( not sure what the bitterness will already be from the can of goops ) and just use the 10m and 0min addition ( make the 0min a 5 to 10min hopstand after flameout)

Amarillo/Centennial 28g each @ 10m & the another 28g of each @ 0m

Dry hop with the Citra after 5 days of fermentation - Id use 50g for 7days @ 20c and you will get a huge citrus aroma.

Keep the Galaxy and on the next batch swap out the Citra for the Galaxy but for only 4-5days :icon_drool2:


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## superstock

Yob said:


> Just a tip, get some stainless fittings if you want to weight down a hop bag, much better than marbles


Thanks. I've got the marbles, S/S fittings entail a 50km drive before I even start looking for source.


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## Dan Pratt

superstock said:


> Thanks. I've got the marbles, S/S fittings entail a 50km drive before I even start looking for source.


or you could just add them without a bag and cold crash 24hrs before packaging?


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## Gigantorus

Pratty1 said:


> Thise hops make for a great combo late in the kettle and dry hopped.
> 
> here is the link of the recipe that uses that combo, Ive made it twice and both times it was great.
> 
> http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24947
> 
> Do a hop burst into the back of the boil ( not sure what the bitterness will already be from the can of goops ) and just use the 10m and 0min addition ( make the 0min a 5 to 10min hopstand after flameout)
> 
> Amarillo/Centennial 28g each @ 10m & the another 28g of each @ 0m
> 
> Dry hop with the Citra after 5 days of fermentation - Id use 50g for 7days @ 20c and you will get a huge citrus aroma.
> 
> Keep the Galaxy and on the next batch swap out the Citra for the Galaxy but for only 4-5days :icon_drool2:



Thanks, Pratty.

I'm a simple home brewer and I have not progressed to the boiling on the stove level yet. 

My question was relating to dry-hopping only. Though I was also thinking about steeping some hops in some hot water and adding that to the mix at the beginning to drive some bitterness. Maybe use the Galaxy for this?

I guess in the back of my mind I was thinking of dry-hopping with 50 grams of each the 4 varieties. But was wondering if this would be enough/too much/just the right amount? I love my hoppy IPA's etc.

Thanks,
Pete


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## wereprawn

+1 for dry hopping cold. I put a hop sock (with whatever amount of hops i deem enough ) in a cold keg of beer for 4 days. Personal preference , but the hop aroma stands out more and it reduces infection taking hold IMHO.


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## Dan Pratt

Gigantorus said:


> Thanks, Pratty.
> 
> I'm a simple home brewer and I have not progressed to the boiling on the stove level yet.
> 
> My question was relating to dry-hopping only. Though I was also thinking about steeping some hops in some hot water and adding that to the mix at the beginning to drive some bitterness. Maybe use the Galaxy for this?
> 
> I guess in the back of my mind I was thinking of dry-hopping with 50 grams of each the 4 varieties. But was wondering if this would be enough/too much/just the right amount? I love my hoppy IPA's etc.
> 
> Thanks,
> Pete


Hi Pete,

Time to get a Big W 19lt pot then 

Dont use Galaxy for anthing but very late in the kettle or dry hopping, you will get bitterness from the CPA, from what i read it should be about 40ibu

Id say start with 100g of Citra(7-10days) then on the next beer 100g Galaxy (only for 4-5days) Maybe then try a combo of Amarillo/Centennial.

You can try a 4way combo but it really pays to get a clear aroma from just one hop before mixing them.


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## moodgett

I personally have found too much grassiness when dry hopping. I now just stick to larger flameout additions for my apas ands ipas. That said most of my hopping is at 15 - flameout depending on the recipe


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## Dan Pratt

moodgett said:


> I personally have found too much grassiness when dry hopping. I now just stick to larger flameout additions for my apas ands ipas. That said most of my hopping is at 15 - flameout depending on the recipe


Hi Moodgett,

I used to get grassy, that was when i added them either too early, for too long or at the wrong temp. It depends on the hop too.

Now I just get huge aramotics and resinous flavours into the beer from dry hop additions :icon_drool2:

What hops were you dry hopping, what time during fermentation, how long and at what temps?


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## Rod

Cocko said:


> Sounds like you have it spot on to me, mate.
> 
> Definitely use an 'aroma' hop - the US C hops are great on the nose - Cascade Centennial etc.. plenty of them - but yeah, you have it spot on.
> 
> So, 1-2g/L should see you in good aroma. I put mine in a coffee mug and boil the kettle [Coffee making type, not your Brew Kettle] Cover/fill the hops in the mug with boiling water. 2 reasons, to activate the hops and sanitise them a little, any risk is a risk. Then just dump the green slurry in the FV!! I usually wait 4 days into ferment, sometimes just dump then in when tipping the cube... You will find 'your' way to do it.
> 
> Yes, throw them in the FV, they will drop out and if you are cold conditioning/Crash chilling, even better.
> 
> Is your IPA have another 4 days in FV? I would allow about 4 days for the hops to drop, in particular, the yeast activity may be slower and the hops have no guidance to drop with their new found friends.....
> 
> In short - dump 'em now - do a D Rest - for 3 days - Crash chill for at least 3 - sorted.
> 
> 5c. [Metric and all]


I had been dry hopping , literally for a number of years

enjoyed the benefits 


however the last dry hop , adding hops in a tea bag , without steeping in boiling water (recommended method in the 1st batch years ago and continued that way) 

infection , the only one in my career

so no more

had thought many times I need to go back

will do so now


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## Gigantorus

OK have biten the bullet and decided on a 3-way hop infusion to a pale ale. So laid down a new pale ale yesterday that I tweaked.

Used a can of Coopers Australian Pale Ale, 1kg of Coopers BE2.

I steeped 20grams of galaxy, centennial and amarillo pellets and added the liquid only to the APA can and BE2 and then topped up to 21 litre mark.

Will dry-hop with the other 30grams of each for the last 4 days of a 14 day stay in the fermenter. Looking forward to a nice hoppy pale ale. Only time will tell if the hops were too much, just right or not enough. 

Cheers,

Pete


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## Black n Tan

It is well known that yeast can strip hop flavour and at the recent ANHC dry hopping techniques were discussed including reducing yeast load prior to dry hopping. So I recently made an IPA and decided to cold crash to floc the yeast before dry hopping (5g/L @ 3 C for 6 days, agitated daily for first 4 days). I have too say the result was majorly disappointing with very muted hop flavours and aroma. So for my latest APA I decided to dry hop at fermentation temps. Once fermentation was complete I pressurised by conical at 4psi (mentioned at ANHC to floc yeast). After 24 hours I added my dry hops and held for 2 days (4g/L @ 20C for 2days, stirred on second day) before cold crashing for 4 days. The flavour and aroma is just fabulous. The hops tend to float at fermentation temps and then drop during cold crashing, and this combination seems to maximise the extraction of the hop oils.


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## Dan Pratt

Black n Tan said:


> It is well known that yeast can strip hop flavour and at the recent ANHC dry hopping techniques were discussed including reducing yeast load prior to dry hopping. So I recently made an IPA and decided to cold crash to floc the yeast before dry hopping (5g/L @ 3 C for 6 days, agitated daily for first 4 days). I have too say the result was majorly disappointing with very muted hop flavours and aroma. So for my latest APA I decided to dry hop at fermentation temps. Once fermentation was complete I pressurised by conical at 4psi (mentioned at ANHC to floc yeast). After 24 hours I added my dry hops and held for 2 days (4g/L @ 20C for 2days, stirred on second day) before cold crashing for 4 days. The flavour and aroma is just fabulous. The hops tend to float at fermentation temps and then drop during cold crashing, and this combination seems to maximise the extraction of the hop oils.


I have found this too BnT, cold temps dont really get a good level of oil extraction, higher temps eg fermentation temp sure does.

When the yeast hasnt flocced out I cold crash the day before to drop all the yeast out and then let it raise back up to ferment temp to start the dry hop, if its already clear at the surface I throw them in and will dry hop for at least 7days, sometimes even 10days with amount ranging from 2 to 6g/L and depending on the hops.


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## manticle

Funny, I prefer dry hopping in cold for 2-3 days but then I'm much less of a hophead than others and I prefer a more subtle effect.


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## slcmorro

I always dry hop cold. Although having said that, I'm known to dry hop with anything up to 100 gms plus in a 20L batch.


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## Dan Pratt

56g warm will get you double the hop aroma that you get from100. I have tried cold and warm really does the extraction, even tried double layering by dry hopping warm for 5days and then cold for 5days.....felt as though t he cold dry hop was a waste.


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## indica86

I chucked 60g dry hop in a pale @ 5°c for my last beer.
Sure is aromatic. More so than any other beer I have dry hopped in the past.


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## Dan Pratt

indica86 said:


> I chucked 60g dry hop in a pale @ 5°c for my last beer.
> Sure is aromatic. More so than any other beer I have dry hopped in the past.


what was the hop?


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## indica86

20g each of Cascade, Centennial and Citra


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## Pogierob

Just researching dry hopping and came across this.

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf


To be honest I haven't read through it, but I intend to.. thought it appeared interesting enough to share..


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## Yob

there goes my next week of train trips..

*thank you* very much _*sir*_, good *day*


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## bulp

Rob.P said:


> Just researching dry hopping and came across this.
> 
> http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf
> 
> 
> To be honest I haven't read through it, but I intend to.. thought it appeared interesting enough to share..


Thanks for that looks like interesting reading,

Myself my normal dry hop procedure is as follows

- Wait until 3 days of constant FG
- Crash chill from 20-22 to 17c and hold for 24hrs
- Dry hop for 3-5 days dependant on recipe (pellets) rouse with a gentle stir every couple of days (no splashing)
-Crash chill to 1 c for 7 days and keg
- And i forgot if i'm dry hopping for 5 days i'll add 75% of the dry hop at the start and 3 days in add the rest, i feel this gives the dry hop more character and depth

Always get massive hop aroma and no grassiness and have never noticed any oxidised flavours, i think as home brewers we don't keep our IPA's/pale ales in the keg/bottle long enough to notice any detrimental effects of oxidation.

I also use time to clarify my beers, i don't filter or use any gelatine which in my experience does tend to strip some level of hop flavour/aroma, conversely the clearer i can get my ipa's pale ales the better the hop flavour/aroma shine through, so i take care to keep as much trub out of my fermenter and keg as possible.

I've tried both dry hopping in primary and secondary and haven't noticed any difference nor do i reuse my yeast from these hop bombs, and usually dry hop at 5/10g per L dependant on the beer

If it isn't hoppy enough "add more hops" :icon_drool2:


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## Pogierob

I"m doing a recipe which I brewed about a month ago, it's in the keg and a bloody tasty easy drinker.

all cascade.

I'm doing the same brew today but with Simcoe 

I was wondering if I needed to drop the simcoe dry hop from 20g due to the difference in AA's.

so far everything suggests the AA's isn't what we are after from the dry hop so I figure I'll stick to the 20g


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## fletcher

1. at the end of fermentation
2. as much as you like
3. throw them in as is


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## wide eyed and legless

Here is a simple explanation about dry hopping for the beginner.

http://labeerfan.com/2014/03/12/dry-hopping/


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## kaiserben

I'm gonna dry hop with 60 grams of hops (20 Amarillo, 20 Simcoe, 20 Willamette) in 22 Litres of what was supposed to be IPA (although my OG was 1.042, but that's another story). I've decided I'm comfortable with adding these hops in (pre-boiled and no-rinse sanitised) hop socks at some stage 3-7 days before transferring to bottling bucket. (don't have equipment to crash chill). 

What I want to know is: Should I whack all 60g in at, say, 5 days before bottling day? Or should I space a couple of additions out across different days? (and if so, should I do 2 x 30g additions - ie 10g each of the 3 hops, then 10g of each again a couple of days later - or do limit it to 1 type of hop at each addition - ie dump all 20g of one hop on one day, then all 20g of another on another day, and then all 20g on yet another day?

I'm trying to get my head around what effect adding different dry hops on different days will have, or whether it's worth the effort of worrying about so fine a detail that perhaps only barely registers as different for most drinkers?


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## Dan Pratt

kaiserben said:


> I'm gonna dry hop with 60 grams of hops (20 Amarillo, 20 Simcoe, 20 Willamette) in 22 Litres of what was supposed to be IPA (although my OG was 1.042, but that's another story). I've decided I'm comfortable with adding these hops in (pre-boiled and no-rinse sanitised) hop socks at some stage 3-7 days before transferring to bottling bucket. (don't have equipment to crash chill).
> 
> What I want to know is: Should I whack all 60g in at, say, 5 days before bottling day? Or should I space a couple of additions out across different days? (and if so, should I do 2 x 30g additions - ie 10g each of the 3 hops, then 10g of each again a couple of days later - or do limit it to 1 type of hop at each addition - ie dump all 20g of one hop on one day, then all 20g of another on another day, and then all 20g on yet another day?
> 
> I'm trying to get my head around what effect adding different dry hops on different days will have, or whether it's worth the effort of worrying about so fine a detail that perhaps only barely registers as different for most drinkers?


Add all 60g in a hop sock is the go, its only 3g/L See what you get from 5days at approx 20c and remove them or even leave them in during bottling. I have double hopped some beers that have been 5days and then more for another 3days and the noticable level of aromatics was increased but not 10 fold so try the full 60g this batch and split them on the next one 30g 3days and 30g another 3days.


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## kaiserben

Cheers. 

My only previous dry-hopping experience was loose pellets in an ESB (and without space/equipment to crash chill there was quite a bit of hop material still in suspension when I bottled it (7 days after dry hopping). So I'm hoping to avoid that happening again. Still waiting for that to condition before tasting). 

But this time: tonight I boiled a hop sock (in napisan), then rinsed it in tap water and squeezed out excess water, then immersed it in no-rinse san for a few minutes. I then added 60g hop pellets, tied the sock off with plenty of room for expansion, then chucked it directly into fermenter. The sock dropped without needing anything extra in it to weigh it down. Pretty happy with how simple that process was. 

I plan to drain the fermenter (via its tap and some hose) into a bottling bucket on Sunday (so dry hops will have 5 days to do its thing). I will just recover the sock when cleaning out the fermenter afterwards. 

Am I on the right track? Or is there something I'm doing that is a major no-no?


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## Westo

New_guy said:


> I am keen to dry hop my next brew
> 
> From reading the main points i have found are:
> Dry hop for 3-5 days near end of fermentation
> Dry hop at a rate of 1gm/litre
> If cold conditioning (I am) throw hops into FV
> Hop variety should be an aromatic one not bittering
> Dry hopping 20gms of cascade into 20lt of IPA thats just about finsihed up the US05 should do the trick?
> 
> Am I in the right track?


sorry if this has been said before .... too lazy to read all posts, if you have an IPA 20g for dry hopping is not enough you want to go at least 90g of hops for a single batch 5 - 7 days(7 max)


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## alburke90

I was going to dry hop with Pride of Ringwood.

Bad idea?


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## technobabble66

Mixed opinions on PoR. 
I'd point out that James Squires have used it heavily in one of their early Hop Thief iterations. So I'd guess it may work well. Give it a crack and report!!


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## kaiserben

kaiserben said:


> But this time: tonight I boiled a hop sock (in napisan), then rinsed it in tap water and squeezed out excess water, then immersed it in no-rinse san for a few minutes. I then added 60g hop pellets, tied the sock off with plenty of room for expansion, then chucked it directly into fermenter. The sock dropped without needing anything extra in it to weigh it down. Pretty happy with how simple that process was.
> 
> I plan to drain the fermenter (via its tap and some hose) into a bottling bucket on Sunday (so dry hops will have 5 days to do its thing). I will just recover the sock when cleaning out the fermenter afterwards.
> 
> Am I on the right track? Or is there something I'm doing that is a major no-no?


To follow up: everything above worked well and the results were great. I'm probably hoping to get a bit more aroma for what I'm chasing, but I'm well on my way there.


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## skb

Silly question I have a beer that is already in the keg and carbed and I am thinking it is just missing a little ! Is it too late to dry hop, will the CO2 go crazy if I throw it in now ?


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## Topher

skb said:


> Silly question I have a beer that is already in the keg and carbed and I am thinking it is just missing a little ! Is it too late to dry hop, will the CO2 go crazy if I throw it in now ?


Nah, I've done it heaps......go hard! I usually put the hops in a bit of stocking, let them warm up to room temp, pop the keg lid (leaving a bit of co2 trickling in), and chuck them in. Have used a teaspoon before to get them to sink.....but have found a few dunks of the bag I'd enough to wet them enough to sink into the beer. 

Goes stoopid hoppy and grassy for a few days, then settles down.


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## skb

thats my mission tonight then !


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## madhomebrewer

So I have read this entire forum from beginning to end and found no mention of lagers or pilseners or of the classic noble hop Czech Saaz of which I am a massive fan. Having finished the build of my 3v herms brewing system, I am up to my 4th of 5 Vienna lagers to dial in my mash temps and at the same time have been playing around with my hope rates. These have been Czech Saaz and Hallertau Mittlefrau. The grain bill has been the only constant. Whilst I have been happy with the results so far, I am not getting the spicyness and the aroma of the Saaz as much as I like and was thinking of going with dry hopping to get this. So my question is, does anyone have any experience in this area?


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## twinathon

madhomebrewer said:


> So I have read this entire forum from beginning to end and found no mention of lagers or pilseners or of the classic noble hop Czech Saaz of which I am a massive fan. Having finished the build of my 3v herms brewing system, I am up to my 4th of 5 Vienna lagers to dial in my mash temps and at the same time have been playing around with my hope rates. These have been Czech Saaz and Hallertau Mittlefrau. The grain bill has been the only constant. Whilst I have been happy with the results so far, I am not getting the spicyness and the aroma of the Saaz as much as I like and was thinking of going with dry hopping to get this. So my question is, does anyone have any experience in this area?


What time are your hop additions during the boil? Rarely see dry hopping for pilsners.


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## manticle

I have experience dry hopping with saaz, tett and styrians. Styrians works well. The others don't.

Try it for yourself. Everyone's palate differs.


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## wereprawn

madhomebrewer said:


> So I have read this entire forum from beginning to end and found no mention of lagers or pilseners or of the classic noble hop Czech Saaz of which I am a massive fan. Having finished the build of my 3v herms brewing system, I am up to my 4th of 5 Vienna lagers to dial in my mash temps and at the same time have been playing around with my hope rates. These have been Czech Saaz and Hallertau Mittlefrau. The grain bill has been the only constant. Whilst I have been happy with the results so far, I am not getting the spicyness and the aroma of the Saaz as much as I like and was thinking of going with dry hopping to get this. So my question is, does anyone have any experience in this area?


First wort hopping has worked well in my faux lagers with Saaz. Give it a go if you haven't already .Tastes a bit different to just adding to the boil imo. May be what you are after.


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## Let's Brew Beer

Token said:


> 40 gm for a dry hop isn't unreasonable.


agreed, i've put 50g in my 18L FV.


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## Let's Brew Beer

superstock said:


> How important is it to sink a hop bag? Eventhough I have a 25mm marble in mine it has stayed on the surface.


Would be interesting to do a side-by-side experiment determining the difference of a hop-sock weighed down to one just floating on top to see if there is any difference in taste/aroma.


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