# Show Me Your Bottom.



## tangent

Sorry for the News Ltd style headline but I'd really appreciate some wide feedback.

I know we all like to fiddle with, and improve, our equipment. There's some excellent work done my the newbies lately where they've skipped the bucket in a bucket system all together. (still a big fan of it though)

So since we've collectively all fiddled and farted around with false bottoms, copper pipes and washing machine hoses:

What's the best mash tun design? (and why)
Photos please.


----------



## tangent

I started with this



a big mayo bucket from a pub kitchen. Holes (too few and too big but you get the idea)
inside this


another bucket wrapped in some bubble wrap


with a tap on the bottom.
It works well but a bit of a strain lifting the top bucket out when it's full.
Maybe a pulley setup or something.....

Then the unshakable lure of stainless steel hit me (and I wanted to brew bigger batches)
so one G&G sale and 


mmmmm shiny.
Lately for some bizarre reason I've been getting more stuck spages and I'm wondering if it's the way it could get like an air bubble or something because of the way it goes up and down again


like this.

I'm hoping to get some inspiration from you blokes (and ladies) and solve this sparge dilemma.


----------



## warrenlw63

tangent said:


> Lately for some bizarre reason I've been getting more stuck spages and I'm wondering if it's the way it could get like an air bubble or something because of the way it goes up and down again
> View attachment 10047
> 
> like this.
> 
> I'm hoping to get some inspiration from you blokes (and ladies) and solve this sparge dilemma.



Probably because you've got some flexible hose in there Tangent. My guess is your FB is lifting and letting grain bits underneath. 

I use the very same FB (hard piped with 1/2 inch copper tube) and never encountered a problem.  

Warren -


----------



## tangent

that is a dilemma
i can't lower the false bottom anymore and I'd have to drill an external hole and plug the existing one to raise the tap and put some straight pipe on.


----------



## Justin

Tangent, you could try running some water from your HLT backwards through your false bottom before you start to sparge to blow any air bubbles out before you start to sparge.

Another alternative (and the one that I subscribe to) is to fill your mash tun with your dough in water, then before you add any grain whack your MT tap wide open and drain a bit of water (and thus any air in the line out) and then dough in your grains. This is how I prime all my pump lines and MT manifold line.

That way you dough in and do the mash and when it comes time to sparge you don't have any air trapped in there and thus aren't trying to flush the air out with 5 kg of grain in the tun too.

Another option of course is rice hulls.

Cheers, Justin

Edit: Changed "temp" to "tap" on MT. Whoops. Stupid brain, just does it's own damn thing.


----------



## tangent

Justin, you're a genious!
(I'm already using rice hulls)
Like priming a caravan pump tap before you use it!
I'll try that next chance I get.


----------



## devo

I fitted my outlet directly under the tun so that I do get any stuck lauter/sparges. If I do it's very easy to clear.


----------



## Pumpy

warrenlw63 said:


> tangent said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lately for some bizarre reason I've been getting more stuck spages and I'm wondering if it's the way it could get like an air bubble or something because of the way it goes up and down again
> View attachment 10047
> 
> like this.
> 
> I'm hoping to get some inspiration from you blokes (and ladies) and solve this sparge dilemma.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably because you've got some flexible hose in there Tangent. My guess is your FB is lifting and letting grain bits underneath.
> 
> I use the very same FB (hard piped with 1/2 inch copper tube) and never encountered a problem.
> 
> Warren -
Click to expand...


Warren you have got some use from that photo  

Tangent you cant beat a bit of copper 

Pumpy


----------



## Justin

I guess in answer to your original post tangent, I use a bazooka type manifold made of termimesh. I have four sections of mesh (3-4" long) arranged in a H like pattern that are connected up with a few copper T pieces (3/4") and copper pipe (1/2"). Pretty simple design.

I chose this design because I had previously used termimesh in my old mash tun just as a single straight tube and got excellent efficiency and no stuck sparges. So when I built a bigger tun I just made it bigger to cover more area. Seems to work like the first, but my efficiency has dropped a little as I changed to batch sparging at the same time. I sparge far quicker than I used to and don't stress much about the 5% drop. I get around 75%.


----------



## AUHEAMIC

I made it from some s/s perforated sheet. Cut a circle out then cut a V shape and formed it up into a cone and welded it up. I haven't used it yet (soon my pretty). It's about 280mm diameter which I hope is big enough to handle double batches.


----------



## BrissyBrew

link to pic of my false bottom


----------



## redbeard

I was using a copper manifold in my 45l esky but have just switched to the easy hooker ss braid. works a charm. very fast & no stuck sparges yet.


----------



## TasChris

Then the unshakable lure of stainless steel hit me (and I wanted to brew bigger batches)
so one G&G sale and 
View attachment 10046

mmmmm shiny.
Lately for some bizarre reason I've been getting more stuck spages and I'm wondering if it's the way it could get like an air bubble or something because of the way it goes up and down again
View attachment 10047

like this.

I'm hoping to get some inspiration from you blokes (and ladies) and solve this sparge dilemma.
[/quote]

I too attached a stainless false bottom with a piece of hose. I used the nylex stuff with the mesh in it and also found that stuck sparges became an issue. I found that at 70 odd degress and with the weight of the grain the hose deformed and closed up so I went for a stainless pipe. I also underlet with a half a litre of water prior to starting to recirc the mash run off to flush out any air and to make sure the wort is not to viscous




Cheers
Chris


----------



## Punter

This was my old MT.





And the false bottom I used. Its just the bottom of a bucket with a million holes drilled
no stuck sparges. I used to use SS braid, but efficiency was seriously low @ 54%.





This is my new and improved system. A 55lt willow esky with copper manifold.





Cheers, Duane.


----------



## tangent

got any pics of the termimesh Justin?

let me get this right: the copper setups are not welded but just fit together snugly?


----------



## pint of lager

The brewgear here has gone through many incarnations from partial mash, bucket in bucket, copper manifold in bucket through to ss false bottom in 50 litre insulated ss vessel. Now the tun set up is similar to Devo's so that it drains directly from the bottom rather than through the side with a false bottom similar to Taschris's.

If you use a bucket in bucket, bubblewrap does a good job insulating, as in Tangent's picture, but you will find a few layers closely packed do a better job rather than a single layer. A few towels on top and underneath helps too. I used a loose cardboard sleeve over the top, jammed with bubblewrap. It traps alot more air for insulation.

The current setup works well, but often, at the start, it will not flow. It is not actually a stuck sparge, more like blocked. A quick puff of air up the drain tube and it is off and running.

The early mashes were plagued with stuck sparges, with lots of rice hulls used. A better tun with a tap that can control the flow rate and a proper crusher rather than a tweaked flour mill have cured the stuck sparges.

Don't forget, the husks from the grain do the filtering and the false bottom holds the husks back. At the start, a few chunks will get through, recirculate, then start running off


----------



## devo

This is top side view of my false bottom set up.


----------



## Justin

tangent said:


> got any pics of the termimesh Justin?
> 
> let me get this right: the copper setups are not welded but just fit together snugly?



Nothing flash about it, it's just a SS wire mesh. Holes are around 2mm if I remember rightly. Here's my old mash tun design. Sorry, I don;t have any close up pics of the mesh but you get the idea.


----------



## Adamt

How is the mesh held in the valve? Is it just rolled up and shoved in or is it glued with sealant or something?


----------



## Justin

Rolled up, slipped over the 1/2" brass threaded tube that forms the bulkhead (protrudes into the tun about an inch) and then a hose clamp tightens it down. You'd never dislodge it.

FWIW this tun had a nice tapering bottom and a recess that you can see in the photo that the tube lies in, so it will drain dry if you wanted it to. It fits this situation well. If you used another vessel you may have to put a length of shaped pipe to locate it where you wanted it.

Cheers, Justin


----------



## Kai

Mine's as basic as I could get





Mesh is now jammed into the threaded pipe, not sitting over it.


----------



## tangent

is that termimesh Kai?


----------



## Borret

I made mine.... from scratch.

It works quite well and was the right price..

I won't tell you how many holes I drilled through that stainless but it was somewhere between 1847 and 1849... Ahh the pain

Brent


----------



## warrenlw63

Borret said:


> but it was somewhere between 1847 and 1849... Ahh the pain



... of broken drillbits. :lol: 

Warren -


----------



## Borret

I only used 2...


----------



## Justin

Guess I'll stick this on in this thread.

Here's a few sheets of perforated stainless on ebay, 2mm holes and lots of them. I have read before that you're idealy after somewhere in the order of 30% the area as open (which of course doesn't mean other ratios wont work). Anyway, it may be handy for someone who is nearby to pick it up but make your own assessment of the suitability as I have no idea I've only ever used bazooka type set ups.

Ebay: Perforated stainless sheet 25 sheets available.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Stainless-Steel-Per...1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## devo

wow....you could make a really big false bottom with that. (mind ticking over on potential brewrey expansion)


----------



## Darren

Hey Tangent,
Termimesh was too fine for me. I have used numerous different "bottoms" over the years. Termimesh was the worst!~!
If you are having many stuck sparges I suspect it has more to do with the a drainage problem rather than the construction of your bottom.

cheers

Darren


----------



## jimmyjack

> I'm hoping to get some inspiration from you blokes (and ladies) and solve this sparge dilemma.






> I suspect it has more to do with the a drainage problem rather than the construction of your bottom.



I agree with Darren. I just installed my new false bottom and have been experementing with water flow. When I firt installed it I had slow drainage and left 1.5 litres behind. I then cut and placed some pvc tubing in the elbow from underneath. It flows very quick and leaves nothing behind. I have yet to try a mash with it.

Cheers, JJ


----------



## tangent

> I then cut and placed some pvc tubing in the elbow from underneath.


Ummmm, pics? I just can't picture it. Is it another underneath draining tun?

What do you suggest Darren? There was some interesting stuff in Radical Brewing but I didn't catch on. Small pressure differences something something.....
Anyone got a copy and can translate for me?


----------



## Darren

tangent said:


> I then cut and placed some pvc tubing in the elbow from underneath.
> 
> 
> 
> Ummmm, pics? I just can't picture it. Is it another underneath draining tun?
> 
> What do you suggest Darren? There was some interesting stuff in Radical Brewing but I didn't catch on. Small pressure differences something something.....
> Anyone got a copy and can translate for me?
Click to expand...



Tangent,

Any air leak in your set-up will cause problems. If you have half an hour one saturday I am happy to come and have a look at it for you.

cheers

Darren


----------



## tangent

Deal!
You guys rock :super:


----------



## DJR

My braid manifold - a compression fitting leading into some bent 1/2" copper pipe with a t-piece that the stainless braid fits over, with a couple of SS clamps holding it on. Works great, because the braid sits on the bottom (the ball valve thread sits about 4cm off the bottom of the pail) there's hardly any deadspace.

View attachment 10068


----------



## TasChris

Hey Tangent,
i reckon that the suction that is caused by the wort draining out of the mash tun could also be causing the section of flexible pipe to close until the run out comes to a complete halt or slows down. Once the run out comes to a halt there may be a surge of wort until the suction closes the pipe again. 
This is what started to happen to me till I replaced the flexible hose with SS pipe.


----------



## domonsura

I use a full bottom I made from 1.2 mm perf stainless sheet in the bottom of my 50l tun. I decided that pickup tubes were a PITA, so I went straight through the bottom of the tun instead, so anything that comes out of the outlet has to fit through one of those little holes.












The tun is insulated with 13mm neoprene sheet ($$ouch$$, but it was worth it), I've only put one mash through it since the mods, but with only .2 deg loss I couldn't decide whether I was losing temp or couldn't trust the thermometer . Didn't really measure how much grain went in, so couldn't tell you the efficiency yet, but I reckon it was somewhere ~80% maybe a bit more.  
I tell ya, one of the things I noticed straight away was easier runoff, easier stirriing (with nothing critical to catch on) & how much easier the cleanup was without little bits to take apart and rinse. Literally tip it up into a wheelbarrow, till you can reach the handle, then pull it out taking all the spent grain with it at once. Whip the ball valve off and give all a quick rinse  All the shiney fittings in the world are no good at all unless they make less work.


----------



## tangent

TasChris, i think you could really be onto something there. It would explain why I'm either getting flow or nothing.

Demonsura, nice work. I love shiny s/s.


----------



## Justin

Darren said:


> Termimesh was too fine for me. I have used numerous different "bottoms" over the years. Termimesh was the worst!~!
> 
> Darren



I suspect there must be a range of termimesh options then Darren because mine has been faultless. I didn't buy mine as termimesh (found it in throw out at work) but by reading discriptions on this site it sounded like termimesh was a reasonable description. Perhaps stainless mesh is a better description.

FWIW we don't have termites in Tassie. 

Cheers, Justin


----------



## jimmyjack

> Ummmm, pics? I just can't picture it. Is it another underneath draining tun?



Here is what I have been expermenting with to get better suction and more drainage. All i did was cut some pvc that seems to be the exact fit for the elbow to extend the suction. It is simple but effective. If you are after a more permanent soloution you can use the existing thread on the underneath to attach a compression nut or you get the picture.


----------



## warrenlw63

JJ

I still reckon with that PVC hose it's going to jump around and lift a bit on you on you if you hit it with your mash paddle. Particularly when it softens in the hot mash liquor. h34r: 

It's not too hard to flare up some pipe and make a hard connection that won't move not matter how hard you hit it. Easy to remove for cleaning too.  

Warren -


----------



## bugwan

I use a circular stainless braid in a rectangular esky (talk about round pegs in square holes :huh: ) but it works a treat. Will post a photo or two when I get home...


----------



## hockadays

Can anyone see any problem twisting ss braid like this. I've tried it with out all the twists and it works but sometimes doesn't sit right on the bottom. The twists make it alot more rigid but I'm worried about flow going up and down.


----------



## tangent

Thanks everyone for posting photos. It makes it SO much easier to understand.

Hockadays - do you get much of a flow through the braid?


----------



## hockadays

I normally do without the twists. I'm scared to try it in this config incase it dosen't work real well. The braid itself works well although I'm keen to try other methods such as copper or false bottoms to see if theres much differennce.


----------



## BrissyBrew

Those using a grain and grape ss false bottom I am interested on your thought regarding hole size, I have one I think the holes are a little too big and suck in a little too much grain at times.


----------



## Borret

What size are they?? 

I made mine at 3/32 (2.4mm) after seeing that all the ones the seppo's sell are 3/32 on 5/32 centres.

FWIW I get a bit of 'germ' through at the beginning and end of running but rarely a husk. 

Cheers

Brent


----------



## warrenlw63

I'd say it's another case of it depends. I use the G&G B3 FB and find small amounts of "germ" can get drawn through but never any complete husks.  

The it depends would be if you use a pump (HERMS) or not where I suspect that the suction of the pump may be inclined to pull through more than what's considered the norm. OTOH I'm open to other's experiences here as I don't use a pump myself. :unsure: 

Warren -


----------



## Screwtop

BrissyBrew said:


> Those using a grain and grape ss false bottom I am interested on your thought regarding hole size, I have one I think the holes are a little too big and suck in a little too much grain at times.



Frank, used to be a concern for me too, much more crud comes through than with previous manifolds (mesh, copper, plastic). Found the secret is drain speed, now I open the valve fully to drop all the crap, sometimes have to run some water back into the outlet to get it started. Then turn the valve back to a slow run and recirc is done after about 2.5L. With the valve fully open I was recirculating up to 10L and still not getting clear wort. Now I fly sparge, after recirc I pop a 5L jug under the hose and back the valve off till the runoff is 500ml in 1 min. Then the hose goes into the kettle and I open the valve on the hlt to start the sparge, set the runoff from the HLT to 500ml in 1 minute using the scale on the sight guage. Come back after an hour to a drained tun and HLT. 

That's why I put the element switch on the MashMaster, can turn off the element leaving power on to the MashMaster and still monitor the HLT water temp. Didn't want the element coming on after the water level drops below it.


----------



## warrenlw63

Another point I forgot to mention to chaps. If your FB is in a converted keg with a domed bottom. Make a point of checking the FB/keg floor interface to ensure there are no gaps. My keg/tun is a little beaten up around the bottom and allows a couple of very small undulations for which grain particles can migrate under the FB.  

A cure for this if you can be bothered (personally I don't any more) is to cut a bit 8-9mm PVC racking tube up the middle and run it around the diameter of the FB. This makes a reasonably good seal and prevents crud getting underneath.  

Warren -


----------



## Fingerlickin_B

warrenlw63 said:


> Another point I forgot to mention to chaps. If your FB is in a converted keg with a domed bottom. Make a point of checking the FB/keg floor interface to ensure there are no gaps. My keg/tun is a little beaten up around the bottom and allows a couple of very small undulations for which grain particles can migrate under the FB.
> 
> A cure for this if you can be bothered (personally I don't any more) is to cut a bit 8-9mm PVC racking tube up the middle and run it around the diameter of the FB. This makes a reasonably good seal and prevents crud getting underneath.
> 
> Warren -



A hammer and dolly would fix up the bottom too  

PZ.


----------



## Borret

Fingerlickin_B said:


> warrenlw63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another point I forgot to mention to chaps. If your FB is in a converted keg with a domed bottom. Make a point of checking the FB/keg floor interface to ensure there are no gaps. My keg/tun is a little beaten up around the bottom and allows a couple of very small undulations for which grain particles can migrate under the FB.
> 
> A cure for this if you can be bothered (personally I don't any more) is to cut a bit 8-9mm PVC racking tube up the middle and run it around the diameter of the FB. This makes a reasonably good seal and prevents crud getting underneath.
> 
> Warren -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A hammer and dolly would fix up the bottom too
> 
> PZ.
Click to expand...


What about a mallet and a teddy bear.... 

Barbi's feet would just fall through the holes...


----------



## Kai

tangent said:


> is that termimesh Kai?



I haven't the foggiest. It's whatever Grumpy's keeps in stock.


----------



## Murray

I have a stainless scrubby stuffed up my mash tun outlet tbh. No problems batch sparging. Like POL said way back in the thread, you are just stopping the chunks, not filtering.


----------



## tangent

so you don't have any pipework or false bottom Murray?


----------



## goatherder

I've been meaning to post my pics here too.

I've got the G&G style 9" false bottom in my keg shaped mash tun.

I went with the flexible tube option and used a 3/16" ss bolt with a wingnut to prevent it from floating about.

Anyhow, the pics say it better:


----------



## sluggerdog

I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.

I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.

What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?


----------



## Steve

sluggerdog said:


> I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.
> 
> I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.
> 
> What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?




Couldnt you return it for a 10 inch one rather than chopping n cutting n bending.?
Cheers
Steve


----------



## warrenlw63

sluggerdog said:


> I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.
> 
> I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.
> 
> What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?




Slugger you cut a slot in the top. Think circle with 2 lines.

See pic.  

Then you just slide the FB down sideways.

Warren -


----------



## AUHEAMIC

sluggerdog said:


> I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.
> 
> I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.
> 
> What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?





devo said:


> This is top side view of my false bottom set up.
> 
> View attachment 10062




You could try cutting a small slot in the rim around the top of your kettle as in the photo below.


----------



## crells

I've seen some pics around here where 2 slits were cut out on each side of the opening to allow the FB to pass through.


----------



## sluggerdog

Thanks for the quick replies!

All good, I got it in with a bit of a squeeze and one point where I had stuffed up the circle a little.

Now onto fitting it to my keg, I think I know how I will do this.

Cheers!


----------



## tangent

Well, I pulled apart the false bottom and put it back together again and the sparge ran like a river 
I'm still not sure exactly what the problem was but I think the plastic hose joiner might have been collapsing like TasChris mentioned. It's bloody hard at normal temps but I'd guess at 66C it's getting soft.


----------



## GMK

BrissyBrew said:


> Those using a grain and grape ss false bottom I am interested on your thought regarding hole size, I have one I think the holes are a little too big and suck in a little too much grain at times.




According to Wes Smith at Malt Craft - the ideal size is between 1.5mm and under 2mm.
Over 2mm and you can get the grain stuck in the holes. :super: 

I have a SS False Bottom bought from Saint Pats ages ago that has this size holes - works really well for me.

Phills False bottoms have >2mm size holes in the SS and <2mm size holes in the plastic false bottom.
Figure that out.


----------



## Adamt

Below is a picture of my mesh screen "tube manifold". Is this long enough? Will I benefit from making it the length of the esky?


----------



## Zwickel

Gday mates,

have a view at my system, Im very pleased with:







Cheers


----------



## Stuster

Adamt said:


> Below is a picture of my mesh screen "tube manifold". Is this long enough? Will I benefit from making it the length of the esky?



It'll be fine just the way it is, adam, as long as you do the right thing - batch sparge. h34r:


----------



## bugwan

Tag Zwickel,

I'm loving that symmetry... That set up has given me a great idea for a future upgrade..


Cheers


----------



## Tony M

hockadays said:


> I normally do without the twists. I'm scared to try it in this config incase it dosen't work real well. The braid itself works well although I'm keen to try other methods such as copper or false bottoms to see if theres much differennce.


The trouble with twisting is that your system will start sucking air as soon as the highest point of the braid is above the fluid level. You ara better off with the braid as low as possible. For rigidity, I wound up some stainless welding wire around a rod to make a "spring" which I fed inside the braid. Works well.


----------



## GMK

Adamt said:


> Below is a picture of my mesh screen "tube manifold". Is this long enough? Will I benefit from making it the length of the esky?
> 
> View attachment 10260



I would extend it to the end wall - this will help alleviate channeling in the sparge.
If you have a read of Palmer on line How to brew - he has some good chapters on it.

Hope this helps


----------



## GMK

Zwickel said:


> Gday mates,
> 
> have a view at my system, Im very pleased with:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers




yours is nice but i would make the circle smaller and extend into the middle more.
This will eleviate channeling - eg if u are 2 inch away from the sides then teh daimeter of the inside circle should be 4 inches.
This way the run off has equi distance to travel to the braid.

Currently - anything sparging down the centre has along way to travel to get to the braid - while down the side it is very quick.
This is what produces channeling and drops efficiency.

Hope this helps


----------



## Adamt

I'm going to be batch sparging, so I'd thought that channeling isn't a problem. I guess I might as well buy another "Golo brand Splatter Guard" for $2 and extend it to the end to prevent any problems. Gotta watch my weekly budget though


----------



## Stuster

Save your hard earned cash, adam.  

Kenny, I think that advice about channelling only applies to fly sparging. (Those fixated on the floating mash should now avert their eyes. :lol: ) With batch sparging you should stir up your mash well before draining, thus ensuring the sugars are mixed into solution. There is no channelling. All the water is drained away and all should be (more or less) equally laden with sugars. I consistently get efficiencies in the 80s with this method. A fine crush (for your system) and good stirring are all you need.


----------



## Zwickel

GMK said:


> This way the run off has equi distance to travel to the braid.


thats true, but never mind, because of batch sparging it doesnt matter at all, just as Adamt says.

Recently I have changed the design a little, because Im using a stirrer what reaches til the bottom, so I had to fix the braid:

now it looks this way (I know it doesnt look nice, but its very useful):






and here a view at my *"all-wheater-outdoor-brewery"*














Cheers


----------



## bugwan

I wouldn't want to be paying your gas bills Zwickel! Excellent set up. Love the stainless bench too...


----------



## sluggerdog

What amount of loss to the bottom of the mash tun do you get with the false bottom, I have just installed my false bottom and gave it a test run (water only), it didn't seem to run anymore then past the connector pipe to the false bottom, something like 5 litres plus at a guess.

Anyway to get more out of it or is this about right?


----------



## warrenlw63

sluggerdog said:


> What amount of loss to the bottom of the mash tun do you get with the false bottom, I have just installed my false bottom and gave it a test run (water only), it didn't seem to run anymore then past the connector pipe to the false bottom, something like 5 litres plus at a guess.
> 
> Anyway to get more out of it or is this about right?



Slugger.

You need to extend the pipe to the bottom. Will only drain as far as the siphon allows. Can't upload pics ATM. I'll email you a photo later of what I did. I just extended the thread through the FB. I leave no more than a litre at the worst now.

Warren -


----------



## sluggerdog

Thanks Warren, this is what I thought and I already have set this up but still it just seems to stop when it gets to the whole level unless I tip the tun.


----------



## sluggerdog

All fixed, thanks Warren (via email)

Basically it wasn't draining because I didn't have the keg up high or some plastic tubing on the end of the tap to help with the siphon. With the hosing I got it to around 1 litre left.


----------



## hockadays

Tony M said:


> hockadays said:
> 
> 
> 
> I normally do without the twists. I'm scared to try it in this config incase it dosen't work real well. The braid itself works well although I'm keen to try other methods such as copper or false bottoms to see if theres much differennce.
> 
> 
> 
> The trouble with twisting is that your system will start sucking air as soon as the highest point of the braid is above the fluid level. You ara better off with the braid as low as possible. For rigidity, I wound up some stainless welding wire around a rod to make a "spring" which I fed inside the braid. Works well.
Click to expand...


Thanks Tony this is what I thought as well so I went back to having it flat. Got my LHBS to crack the gain on the next finer setting and my effieciency jumped from 74 to 80%. Crush is everything...


----------



## KoNG

I dont have any photos att his stage (not worth wasting the megapixels)
but i use the good ol braid....
it is the most beat up mangled braid i've seen (i like to stir).
i get fairly constant results with my batch sparge (@ 70% eff).
i might splurge on some new braid soon!


----------



## randyrob

Not to sure how good she works as i havent chrisened it yet, working on my paddle at the moment
(the stainless steel tube from a keg for a handle and some ss sheeting should come up good?)


----------



## BrissyBrew

sluggerdog said:


> I just received the 12 inch fakse bottom from grain and grape and I cannot seem to get it within the keg though my opening I cut out on the top.
> 
> I don't want to cut it anymore as the lid I have just fits as it is.
> 
> What should I do? I'm probably only 1 cm around not fitting. Could I bend it then try and bend it back within the keg? Or should I maybe try and cut the false bottom?


I had exactly the same problem I cut a couple slots in the top to mail the fale bottom into the keg.


----------



## redmond

I used to be a bucket in bucket masher but I had a lot of slack space under my false bottom. I have just finished my first mash with my new braid system, not sure on the efficiency but with the new ball valve I have much better control over flow rates and I am getting less solids in the boiler.


----------



## Fingerlickin_B

Here is mine, the common stainless domed false bottom which fits very snugly in the bottom of a well insulated bucket:






I was tinkering with the idea of extending the brass elbow with some more hose to get closer to the bottom so as to draw out more wort, but found that as the plastic tubing is slightly loose where it enters the tap body, so you can in fact just tilt the bucket and remaining wort will find it's way out leaving very little (read: bugger all) behind  

The whole tun setup came from Steve on this forum when he upgraded and I'll be forever grateful. Also included was a plastic FB which I'd planned on giving away to someone who might need it but couldn't afford a SS one...problem is I've now lost it somewhere inside this mess I live in! :huh: 

PZ.


----------



## Steve

No worries.....and yes I also forgot to tell you to tip the mashtun to get the last few drops of wort out. Glad you figured it out.
Cheers
Steve


----------



## xtrabyte

Adamt said:


> Below is a picture of my mesh screen "tube manifold". Is this long enough? Will I benefit from making it the length of the esky?
> 
> View attachment 10260


I used your manifold as inspiration to make this one. I made one up using the SS mesh from a cover used over the frying pan to catch spitting fat. My wife never used it, I better replace it anyway  I tested it and it worked well.


----------



## Frothy

22mm copper slotted bottom in 30L cool box




It's been cleaned since then 

Matt


----------



## Cortez The Killer

44L Willow , SS Tubing, Brass Fittings, SS Tap, Rubber Washer

I can pull all the tubing apart if required

The tun has a 1.5 L dead space

It hasn't been christened yet


----------



## tangent

i like the pivoting idea, my s/s false is a bugger to get the grain out from underneath.


----------



## lonte

36L Keepcold Cooler (from BCF), 10" SS Phil's false bottom (from G&G), 1/2" Nickel plated brass ball valve (from "The Irrigation Shop" Moss St, Underwood), plastic bulkhead fitting (Also from Irrigation shop), copper tube ...

http://www.michaelmowbray.net/***/20061231-2%20004.jpg


----------



## hughman666

much the same as xtrabyte's, mine is from a fying pan splash screen:




i'm going to replace the rubber washer with a silicone one, does anybody know of any ill effects from using a rubber washer in the mash tun? i haven't noticed any off flavours, just curious though....


----------



## Adamt

Hughman: Careful with those frying pan splash screens. I opened my mash tun this morning to find my splash screen tube rusting, after leaving it soaking overnight. Had a spare one sitting around and made a makeshift one for the mash.

So yeah, don't leave them soaking, especially if you only paid $1.50 for them! 

Edit: I've had no problem with rubber washers in either my kettle or mash tun.


----------



## Back Yard Brewer

lonte said:


> 36L Keepcold Cooler (from BCF), 10" SS Phil's false bottom (from G&G), 1/2" Nickel plated brass ball valve (from "The Irrigation Shop" Moss St, Underwood), plastic bulkhead fitting (Also from Irrigation shop), copper tube ...
> 
> http://www.michaelmowbray.net/***/20061231-2%20004.jpg



Have just bought a 36ltr Keep Cold. How happy are you with its insulation properties? Just asking because the rubbermaid "seems" to be all the rage. Interesting to see the various manifold set-ups.


----------



## SpillsMostOfIt

Adamt said:


> Edit: I've had no problem with rubber washers in either my kettle or mash tun.



Neither have I. If I find one in there, I just pick it out with some tongs. h34r:


----------



## jimmysuperlative

Mabye this should be a new topic? ...but, I'll throw it out here and see what happens!!

I've been Brewing in a Bag BIAB for a while now ...and enjoying the results immensly!
However, I'm looking to maximise my output and "double batch" ...to produce around 45L of wort.

I already have a 55L vessel, which I use for my single batch BIAB, and I'm about to purchase a 120L vessel to upgrademy system.

What I want to know is if my "grain bag" (which completely lines the 55L vessel) could be used as the false bottom of I make the 55L my mash tun?

The "bag" is made from fine nylon voille (cutain material) and allows no grain/husks/bits to escape to the wort.
I'd be batch sparging, BTW.

So ....what do you reckon? I'll probably give it a go anyway, but, I'd like the "experts" opinion.


----------



## enoch

Mine works a treat in my 45 litre coleman cooler. Stainless braid and copper fittings.


----------



## lucas

Finally, I get to join the club


----------



## mika

Hey Lucas, may be worrying about nothing, but the way the braid lies in your tun, it goes pretty close to the edges. It may be possible for the water to channel down the sides and bypass the grain. One to watch out for if your efficiency goes to the dogs.


----------



## lucas

thanks for the tip mika, I'll try it out first and see if it's a problem. 

I tried trimming the end of that braid to neaten it up a bit but the stuff is tuff, much thicker than normal braid. not sure that I've got anything that would allow me to cut it to shorten it enough to keep it away from the sides


----------



## tangent

if you batch sparge, not a problem.
Channelling is a problem if you fly sparge though.


----------



## Batz

mika_lika said:


> Hey Lucas, may be worrying about nothing, but the way the braid lies in your tun, it goes pretty close to the edges. It may be possible for the water to channel down the sides and bypass the grain. One to watch out for if your efficiency goes to the dogs.




Mine is the same Lucas,been using it for years without a problem.
I batch sparge and as tangent says it'll be fine

Batz


----------



## lucas

sweet as then, I wasnt planning on fly sparging


----------



## therook

Does anyone use PVC as a manifold?

Rook


----------



## Ducatiboy stu

There are some issues with heat and PVC leeching bad stuff.

But then again we all die of something


----------



## Maxt

So how much wort do brewers find they lose with their respective setups? (loss to tun deadspace)


----------



## Shunty

On a plain water test, i lost just over one litre in a rectangular rubbermaid chilly bin esky, however i seem to loose more with an actual mash, as i start drawing air before all the wort has worked it's way down to the pickup, from my pre-boil vol i'm loosing about 2 litres


----------



## devo

therook said:


> Does anyone use PVC as a manifold?
> 
> Rook




I have in the past but no longer do so now.


----------



## blackbock

Looking at some of the designs people are using with FB's, it seems to me that in some cases the drain outlet is located quite some height above the actual floor of the tun. One picture seems to show a height of around 4 or 5 inches! Does this mean that some of you are losing quite a bit to deadspace, or does the siphoning action pretty much drain everything?

In other words, if you could redesign your mashtuns from scratch, would you locate the drain outlet as low as possible above the false bottom, or are there other good reasons for having it higher up the wall?

:huh:


----------



## crozdog

therook said:


> Does anyone use PVC as a manifold?
> 
> Rook


I used to when I first went AG, but the heat ended up distorting the pipe quite a bit. i replaced it with stainless braid.


----------



## crozdog

Here is my new 200l tun.



As it was going to cost $360+ for a 1m wide piece of perforated stainless, i decided to go for the 1" braid instead @ a cost of $48. 

More pics can be found here

FYI, I sourced the braid from Earls - the guys who make performance radiator & brake lines for cars. the fittings are all 20mm as i couldn't find 25mm allthread.


----------



## Lukes

Here is a couple of pics of my current set-up.




Same as many others here with the drain to the bottom centre of the tun (no dead space).
With the right crush and PH I get great efficiency 80% +




1st pic is cleaning out the hot spent grain.
2nd pic is after first running's but before batch sparge of a stout.

I have it hooked up to a pump and HERMS and the return manifold is made from copper pipe..

- Luke​


----------



## bugwan

Lukes said:


> Here is a couple of pics of my current set-up.
> 
> View attachment 12384
> 
> 2nd pic is after first running's but before batch sparge of a stout.
> 
> I have it hooked up to a pump and HERMS and the return manifold is made from copper pipe..
> 
> - Luke​



Looks like a heart bypass gone horribly wrong Lukes! Nice bling though mate...  

Cheers


----------



## Maxt

blackbock said:


> Looking at some of the designs people are using with FB's, it seems to me that in some cases the drain outlet is located quite some height above the actual floor of the tun. One picture seems to show a height of around 4 or 5 inches! Does this mean that some of you are losing quite a bit to deadspace, or does the siphoning action pretty much drain everything?
> 
> In other words, if you could redesign your mashtuns from scratch, would you locate the drain outlet as low as possible above the false bottom, or are there other good reasons for having it higher up the wall?
> 
> :huh:



..the question I was wanting to ask (but felt stupid).
Many of the uptake pipes seem miles above the bottom of the tun, thus my question about deadpsace. Is the a vaccum action happening because how else does an uptake pipe that's 2 inches below the outlet ever work?


----------



## goatherder

Maxt said:


> ..the question I was wanting to ask (but felt stupid).
> Many of the uptake pipes seem miles above the bottom of the tun, thus my question about deadpsace. Is the a vaccum action happening because how else does an uptake pipe that's 2 inches below the outlet ever work?




If you can manage a good airtight path from below the FB to the tap then the siphon action will drain the wort until the uptake pipe gets exposed. I posted my pics in the thread earlier here:

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=167064

The tun will drain right to the bottom of the threaded centrepiece of the FB. There isn't much left underneath - a couple of hundred ml maybe. It doesn't really matter what height the tap is.


----------



## tangent

Finally, i can sparge again!  
Even the Roggenbier sparged OK without rice gulls


----------



## Uncle Fester

Maxt said:


> So how much wort do brewers find they lose with their respective setups? (loss to tun deadspace)




I reckon about 100ml max. Will measure and qualify.

Fester.


----------



## Ross

tangent said:


> View attachment 13787
> 
> Finally, i can sparge again!
> Even the Roggenbier sparged OK without rice gulls



Tangent, 

Looks good - Have you tried with the slots facing downwards? - you should get a little more liqour & less likely to block.

cheers Ross


----------



## DarkFaerytale

Ross said:


> Tangent,
> 
> Looks good - Have you tried with the slots facing downwards? - you should get a little more liqour & less likely to block.
> 
> cheers Ross



agree with ross always worked better facing down when i had a copper manifold


----------



## tangent

i just rigged one up for a test run. the slots are on both sides.


----------



## Fents

Wash gonna start a new thread for this but seeings as it fits here i shall ask here first...

Q. Has anyone brought and been using the rectanguler "esky" style false bottoms that Mashmaster.com.au sell? Are they good?

I've been getting shithouse eff (approx 70%) with my braid and platic bucket setup so i have an esky i can convert i just dont wanna go with the braid again?

Also i like the idea of a rectangular false bottom meaning i can still use the esky....for an esky.

Cheers B)


----------



## Fents

just looked on their site and their not there anymore


----------



## ant

Beerbelly?


----------



## Screwtop

therook said:


> Does anyone use PVC as a manifold?
> 
> Rook




Tried one in the past chasing a problem with poor eff, tried brade, copper and food grade PVC (forget the number, but it's the high pressure stuff). All worked equally as well IMO, changed to SS FB when I changed to a SS mash tun.


----------



## roger mellie

ant said:


> Beerbelly?



Yep - thats where I brought mine from

Superb Piece of Kit - just way better than braid IMHO - worth every penny.

RM


----------



## Fents

errrr yea...beerbelly thats what i meant..err

Roger what sort of eff do you get with it? and how much was it? edit $60


----------



## ernie

From post #94



> I've been Brewing in a Bag BIAB for a while now ...and enjoying the results immensly!
> However, I'm looking to maximise my output and "double batch" ...to produce around 45L of wort.
> 
> I already have a 55L vessel, which I use for my single batch BIAB, and I'm about to purchase a 120L vessel to upgrademy system.
> 
> What I want to know is if my "grain bag" (which completely lines the 55L vessel) could be used as the false bottom of I make the 55L my mash tun?
> 
> The "bag" is made from fine nylon voille (cutain material) and allows no grain/husks/bits to escape to the wort.
> I'd be batch sparging, BTW.
> 
> So ....what do you reckon? I'll probably give it a go anyway, but, I'd like the "experts" opinion.



Hey Jimmy...

did you ever get an answer on this?


----------



## tangent

i used to get 60% eff with bucket in bucket. no big deal, just use slightly more malt.
I'd hardly call 70% shithouse efficiency.
$60 buy a lot of malt.


----------



## Fents

tangent said:


> i used to get 60% eff with bucket in bucket. no big deal, just use slightly more malt.
> I'd hardly call 70% shithouse efficiency.
> $60 buy a lot of malt.




when people i know are getting 80%+ (more like 83%) with the same crush and im just breaking 70% i'd call it shithouse. And yea i'd add more malt but my buckets already full with 6kgs and 18litres of water.


----------



## roger mellie

Fents said:


> errrr yea...beerbelly thats what i meant..err
> 
> Roger what sort of eff do you get with it? and how much was it? edit $60



First time I used it was on an APA - got about 86% - although my volume measurement sux a bit and I never quite know what to believe in Beersmith - the 3 efficiency calc methods never agree - well above 80 anyway.

TBH I dont chase efficiency that much - the mashing part of my brewday revolves around stuck sparge avoidance - and on that front she scores 11/10 (so far... ahem)

RM


----------



## tangent

> 6kgs and 18litres of water.


add more malt, use less water :beer:


----------



## Fents

roger that roger, thanks.


----------



## Simmo152

Here is mine, Just made it hope it works well.
Oh and i've since cleaned the mash tun.


----------



## TasChris

Hi all,
Just did my first batch since Nov 06, been busy moving house etc. I ended up with a poor efficiency of 65%.
I reckon the way my SS FB was sitting on the bottom of my keep cool esky allowed for the sparge water to channel down the sides of the mashtun and under the FB as I don't have a snug fit.
I have fitted a peice of split food grade plastic hose around edge of the FB. Hopefully this will provide a better seal and prevent the sparge water from sneaking round the sides.





Any one notice that an election is looming?
We have had Howard andd Rudd in town in the last week. A lot of attention for a town of only 3500 people!!

Cheers
Chris


----------



## deckedoutdaz

I mentioned to my wife i was gonna show you guys a picture of my bottom, if she'd only take the time to ask before assuming the worse!!

I converted this from an a plate out of an old pad filter i have laying about, fits so snug into the bottom of my old 10 gallon keg i use as a mash tun, efficiency a good as well, we thought the holes were a little small (top and bottom) but in the time i've been using it i haven't really had a stuck sparge.....here guys, check out my bottom....


----------



## sqyre

I was attempting to explain my setup to a couple of guys at the QLD case swap over the weekend... so i decided it would be easier to take a few pics and show them instead..

My tun has its tap in the bottom center..




Here is my Mash tun its hinged for easy spent grain dumping..



i made up a manifold that also supports the false bottom.
There are three arms off the centerpoint of the manifold that have holes drilled on the underside... and the base ring also has tiny holes all the way around so it drains completly and there is no "deadspace" at all...
Manifold from the top and from underneath




manifold with the false bottom attached.



Tun with with manifold and FB removed



Tun with Manifold only..




Sqyre...


----------



## Screwtop

sqyre said:


> I was attempting to explain my setup to a couple of guys at the QLD case swap over the weekend... so i decided it would be easier to take a few pics and show them instead..
> 
> My tun has its tap in the bottom center..
> View attachment 14022
> 
> Here is my Mash tun its hinged for easy spent grain dumping..
> View attachment 14021
> 
> 
> i made up a manifold that also supports the false bottom.
> There are three arms off the centerpoint of the manifold that have holes drilled on the underside... and the base ring also has tiny holes all the way around so it drains completly and there is no "deadspace" at all...
> Manifold from the top and from underneath
> View attachment 14017
> View attachment 14018
> 
> 
> manifold with the false bottom attached.
> View attachment 14019
> 
> 
> Tun with with manifold and FB removed
> View attachment 14020
> 
> 
> Tun with Manifold only..
> View attachment 14023
> 
> Sqyre...



Now I see what you meant Bruce


----------



## DarkFaerytale

beautifull sqyre

-Phill


----------



## Juddy

Well I have finally finished my new mash tun. The esky and stainless braid are no longer! That is assuming that the new one works! The mash tun consists of a stainless inner clad in pine decking with an expanding foam insulation layer. The lid is two sheets of sealed ply with a foam sandwich. A mashmaster thermometer shows the temp, and a brass gate valve regulateds the flow too and from the vessel. 









Inside a stainless false bottom is conected to the out let via flexible hose that should make cleaning a breeze.
Now once the fumes from the finishing oil have subsided I will give it a test run.
Fingers crossed... 
Juddy


----------



## danman

juddy that is bloody beautiful. wow what a work of art
great work mate


----------



## Juddy

Thanks mate. I'm rapt with how it looks but looks aren't everything! Tomorrow i'll see how it works! 
Cheers
Juddy


----------



## DarkFaerytale

that looks beautifull juddy 

wonder what my willow would look like with some wood on it.... 

-Phill


----------



## Juddy

Thanks again.
I thought about trying to improve on the old rubbermaid square esky and stainless braid, but couldn't go past the flase bottom. 
The stainless inner used to be my HLT! So for todays brew I will use my old Mash Tun as the new HLT! And my Old HLT as the new Mash tun! :huh: 
Cheers
Juddy


----------



## Pumpy

Juddy said:


> Well I have finally finished my new mash tun. The esky and stainless braid are no longer! That is assuming that the new one works! The mash tun consists of a stainless inner clad in pine decking with an expanding foam insulation layer. The lid is two sheets of sealed ply with a foam sandwich. A mashmaster thermometer shows the temp, and a brass gate valve regulateds the flow too and from the vessel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inside a stainless false bottom is conected to the out let via flexible hose that should make cleaning a breeze.
> Now once the fumes from the finishing oil have subsided I will give it a test run.
> Fingers crossed...
> Juddy



Great job Juddy , Ok for you young blokes, I have a job lifting my tun for cleaning , my back you see playing second row for the Boys brigade RFC as a lad  

Pumpy


----------



## Juddy

Thanks Pumpy
You're not wrong! She's a weighty little unit. When I build the brew frame will have to put some serious thought into the cleaning and moving side of things!
Cheers
Juddy


----------



## bonj

Juddy said:


> Thanks Pumpy
> You're not wrong! She's a weighty little unit. When I build the brew frame will have to put some serious thought into the cleaning and moving side of things!
> Cheers
> Juddy


You might think about hinging your mashtun similar what Sqyre's done here: Sqyre's Brewstand


----------



## SJW

That looks great. Looks like it could double as a sauna!


----------



## Juddy

Yeah the hinge idea is a good one, but will take some clever design on a portable system. I can picture the whole thing toppling over! Now to the drawing board...
Juddy


----------



## sqyre

Love that timber look...makes the old Stairway look cheap...Nice one Juddy



Bonj said:


> You might think about hinging your mashtun similar what Sqyre's done here: Sqyre's Brewstand



For legal reasons i must state that i stole the idea from Tony...  

And it works awesome...

And to compliment the tipper heres a niffty bit of gear i got from Bunnings for $30...

Perfect for dumping the spent grain into and never spill a husk...well almost never 

Heres the trolley/ bucket thingy...




Its got wheels at the back for an easy stroll down to the compost heap...its also water tight and i've chucked hot grain / water in there and it hasn't bothered it at all..

Sqyre...  


EDIT: And dont even think about mentioning the K+K can on the bench in the background....we all have skeletons in our closets... h34r:


----------



## Ross

Top work Juddy, looks awesome mate - I just love wood clad brewing setups :super: 

Cheers Ross


----------



## Juddy

Thanks Ross
Now that the Mash Tun and False bottom are complete, its time to move onto the filtering setup. Standby for the next order! Just got to sell it to the other half!
Juddy

Ps Off topic I know, but how do I post pictures with the click to enlarge banner like everyone else?


----------



## Tony

sqyre said:


> For legal reasons i must state that i stole the idea from Tony...
> 
> And it works awesome...
> 
> And to compliment the tipper heres a niffty bit of gear i got from Bunnings for $30...
> 
> Perfect for dumping the spent grain into and never spill a husk...well almost never



 

how much grain will your bunnings bucket thing hold mate? I usually have 12 KG in the tun.

here is mine while it was being built

cheers


----------



## sqyre

Tony said:


> how much grain will your bunnings bucket thing hold mate? I usually have 12 KG in the tun.
> 
> here is mine while it was being built
> 
> cheers





Tony, to the best of my knoledge that photo should be a 8 - 10kg of grain bill (before water absorbtion)

i know its never come too close to being full and i've done a heap of recipe's with 10kg plus of grain..

And i always use it to catch the water when i wash out the Tun... so it should hold your 12kg no worries..

The high back is awesome for stopping the pour out of grain from missing the bucket...



Sqyre...  
EDIT: from memory i think its a 40 litre tub...

EDIT EDIT: Just had a look and that 25 litre "fermenter" fits inside all the way up to the bottom of the lid. Plus i'm pretty sure i saw some even bigger versions last time i was at Bunnings..

But i reckon 12kg would be fine with the one i have..


----------



## Tony

looks good mate

cheers


----------



## stuart

I managed to pick up this 40?L water jacketed urn at the scrap yard for $15. It is powered by 2x 1500w elements. I usually heat my mash water up in this, add the grain and switch off the power. The tun maintains pefect temp over the full couse of the mash.


----------



## deckedoutdaz

Great pickup Stu...i'm in or....

daz


----------



## Inge

You lucky son of a...

Last Saturday, I set off to Bunnings to pick up what I needed to build a mash tun. I currently only do fairly large partial mashes (2-3 kg of grain), but I have plans to go all grain in the very near future. I had two eskies laying around, a 55 litre one, and a 15 litre one - the 15 litre esky is just perfect for partial mashes. I wanted to make a modular manifold + drainage system that could fit both eskies in order to minimise cost when I go to all grain. For the time being, I am just going to use the 15L esky for convenience and better temperature stability.

I haven't used it yet, but I checked flow rates, and temperature stability by doing a 'pretend mash' with crushed whole wheat and all have been really good.

Manifold is simple drilled copper tubing, still have plenty left for the 55L manifold.


----------



## ant

Love the gate valve. But I love mashing in the car even more!!! :beerbang:


----------



## Ross

Inge,

Point the holes downwards for the best results  hopefuly they won't clog, if they do, try sawing slots.

Cheers Ross


----------



## Inge

Ross said:


> Inge,
> 
> Point the holes downwards for the best results  hopefuly they won't clog, if they do, try sawing slots.
> 
> Cheers Ross



Ross,

Holes were only facing up for the photoshoot  Didn't have any trouble with clogging with the pretend mash, but will keep it in mind.

Thanks dude!


----------



## bconnery

Here's a link to my cheap bottom...

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=17309


----------



## ant

New falsie. No manifold underneath, just a piece of silicone hose underneath it to somewhere near the centre of the tun


----------



## Darren

Ant,

Nice toes 8). Sorry, I got similar for doing the same

cheers


Darren

I like your bottom too 8)


----------



## troywhite

Yay got my SS false bottom from Beerbelly. 
Can highly recommend him  Thanks mate.

Plus already done a brew with it and it works like a ripper.

Some nice looking bling as well.

   
One happy camper


----------

