# Modding the FERMENTASAURUS



## The Punt

I recently acquired a 35L Fermentasaurus and the pressure lid kit from the good folks at Beerco. Its an awesome piece of equipment. The ability to ferment from start to finish in one vessel, and then transfer under pressure to a keg, makes the process so much easier, and is sure to result in a better beer. I currently have a kolsch fermenting under pressure (5psi), so I can't wait to see what kind of difference that makes. However, after my first batch in it, I noticed a couple of features of the fermentasaurus that could use some tweaking to make it even more user friendly. And as many of us brewers are inclined to be constantly improving our gear, and are unable to just leave stuff alone, I thought I would have a go at improving the dump valve and dip tube.











The valve that comes with the fermentasaurus will do the job, but it is a bit fiddley, and impossible to reach at the bottom of the chest freezer. Also, the yeast collection bottle is too small and makes a mess everytime. The thread coming out of the valve (at the bottom) is unique to only sodastream bottles (so i'm told) and the yeast collection bottle. But thankfully, the top thread that connects to the seal is a standard 1" BSP thread, so I decided to do away with the standard valve altogether, and replace it with a shiny (and much easier to use) tri-clamp butterfly valve. 

The bits I needed to do this, I found on Ebay (from a Chinese supplier) and cost me a total of about $90. And despite Ebay telling me they could take up to 3 months, I received everything about 2 weeks after I placed the order. The important part to get here was the Female Threaded Pipe Fitting, which must have a 1" female BSP thread to match the seal on the fermenter. With a bit of teflon tape and keg lube, I screwed the fitting on as tight as I could by hand, which formed a tight seal. You could probably use multigrips to get it tighter, but I was concerned about damaging the original plastic thread. Also, its easy to crossthread the plastic when screwing on a stainless fitting, so take care. 












The opposite end of this fitting suits a 1.5" tri-clamp, to which I attached an elbow and the butterfly valve. You could do away with the elbow, but bringing the valve out to the side makes it much more accessible, and prevents a lot of mess when dumping trub and collecting yeast. I also attached a barbed hosetail to fit 12mm ID silicone hose which I can use for transferring the beer and taking samples. You could also attach a tri-clamp sight glass and end cap to catch the trub/yeast the same way the original yeast collection bottle would.






The other mod I did was to the dip tube/hose that comes with the pressure lid kit. The silicone hose attaches to the underside of the lid by fitting INSIDE a small length of tube (that is identical to a gas dip tube out of a corny keg) and floats on top of the wort/beer by attaching to a stainless float. This allows you to draw the beer from the top of the fermenter (which is clearer), but the ball has a habit of sticking to the sides of the fermenter, which sucks up a bit of crud, and the hose VERY easily detaches from the float and the tube under the lid. If this happens, you can still get the beer out via siphoning, or through the dump valve, but both of these are less than ideal. 

So, I _decommissioned _an old corny keg that had a dodgy lid seal, took the long dip tube out and used it to replace the short dip tube attached to the beer out post on the fermentasaurus pressure lid. This dip tube works the same way as the dip tube in a corny keg, but ends about 10cm from the bottom of the fermenter, which, due to its conical shape, is only about 2L of dead space. Depending on how much trub has settled in the bottom of the fermenter, the last 2L in the conical is usually no good anyway. You could always buy a longer dip tube for a 25L corny keg, then its just a matter of dropping the trub to below where the dip tube ends. You could also attach a mesh screen to the end of the dip tube to filter out hop particles if dry hopping your beer.






After these mods, I filled the fermenter with some sanitizer, and slowly bumped up the pressure to check that it was air-tight and had no leaks. All I can say is _so far, so good_.









Cheers,
JW.


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## meathead

Wow!
#justsayin


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## wide eyed and legless

Exactly what I would have done, if I had a Fermentasaurus.
Seriously, a top idea, wait till KK see it.


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## markp

Great idea, can you post the eBay seller and parts list for the stainless bits. 
Cheers


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## Schikitar

Wow, cool mods and thanks for sharing! I'm curious, if pressure fermenting how would you add dry hops? I have brewed once with a Fermentasaurus (loaned to me by my brother) but it was a horrible experience ending up with an oxidized beer (long story). I'm still keen to to go this route though and ferment/transfer under pressure, but need to retain the ability to dry hop..


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## brewgasm

I would vent the pressure open the lid and dry hop as usual. I have seen someone on YouTube put the hops in the little bottle then open the value. I'm pretty sure that they purge the oxygen somehow. I think that it was gash slug or bbq & beer Larry


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## BrutusB

markp said:


> Great idea, can you post the eBay seller and parts list for the stainless bits.


+1 please!


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## Schikitar

brewgasm said:


> I have seen someone on YouTube put the hops in the little bottle then open the value. I'm pretty sure that they purge the oxygen somehow.


Yeah, this is how I did it (used my sodastream to flush the little bottle with CO2) - I just feel like venting the pressure and dry hopping from above (in a hop sock?) would introduce more-than-desirable oxygen and negate/compromise the benefits of a closed fermenting system.. My concerns could be completely unfounded, I'm no expert!!

Maybe it would be better to dry hop in the keg? I currently bottle but am looking to keg at the same time as moving to a fermentasaurus..


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## brewgasm

Schikitar said:


> Yeah, this is how I did it (used my sodastream to flush the little bottle with CO2) - I just feel like venting the pressure and dry hopping from above (in a hop sock?) would introduce more-than-desirable oxygen and negate/compromise the benefits of a closed fermenting system.. My concerns could be completely unfounded, I'm no expert!!
> 
> Maybe it would be better to dry hop in the keg? I currently bottle but am looking to keg at the same time as moving to a fermentasaurus..


Through the hatch will introduce oxygen, especially if you are using a hop ball /sock. I would drop them in loose, re pressurise and purge or better yet use the method with the sodastream or some other method to purge out the co2


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## brewgasm

I currently dry hop in the keg, I put the ball and chain in attached to the lid, purge the co2 then rack the beer into the keg


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## BrutusB

brewgasm said:


> I would drop them in loose, re pressurise and purge


You'll find a lot of craft breweries replicate this method (or extremely similar) but at scale of course.


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## The Punt

Hey, thanks for the positive feedback! I'll definately put up a post with the ebay seller and the parts i used as soon as i get home tonight.
As for dry hopping, i'm yet to do a serious IPA in the fermentasaurus (we really need an abbreviation for this thing...) I have been thinking maybe a hop-back or randall type setup using a growler or mini-keg to recirculate the beer in a closed circuit... Might be a project for when i've got some more funds.
Cheers.


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## The Punt

Right, I got all the bits for this mod from *2014online* (http://stores.ebay.com.au/2014online/) EXCEPT the actual valve, which I got from *2008mysky (*http://stores.ebay.com.au/2008mysky/) but I have seen these valves on _KegKing's_ website.
The parts are:
1 X _DN15-DN50 1/2"-2" Sanitary Female Threaded Ferrule Pipe Fitting Clamp Type SS316_ (112697116225) (Make sure you get the 1" thread)
1 X _38MM 1-1/2" 1.5" Sanitary Ferrule Elbow 90 Degree Pipe Fitting SS316 Tri Clamp (121338690388)_
1 X _1/2"-2" 12MM-57MM Sanitary Hose Barb Ferrule Pipe Fitting SS316 Tri Clamp Type (112693304117)_
3 X_ 1.5" Tri Clamp Clover Sanitary Fits 50.5MM OD Ferrule Flange Stainless Steel 316 (122864193442)_
3 X _1-1/2" 1.5" 38MM Silicon Gasket Fits 50.5MM OD Sanitary Tri Clamp Type Ferrule (122864199623)_
And the valve : _1-1/2" 38mm SS304 Stainless Steel Sanitary 1.5" Tri Clamp Butterfly Valve (401385200948)
_
Just check that all the fittings are 1.5" tri-clamp, as some of the listings let you choose between different sizes. Hope this helps.
Cheers.


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## wide eyed and legless

If KK don't get on to this they have got to be either mad or both, optional extras if ever there was.


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## Mr B

Are the butterfly valves a true no disassembly for cleaning (unlike a ball valve)?


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## BrutusB

The Punt said:


> Right, I got all the bits for this mod from *2014online* (http://stores.ebay.com.au/2014online/) EXCEPT the actual valve, which I got from *2008mysky (*http://stores.ebay.com.au/2008mysky/) but I have seen these valves on _KegKing's_ website.
> The parts are:
> 1 X _DN15-DN50 1/2"-2" Sanitary Female Threaded Ferrule Pipe Fitting Clamp Type SS316_ (112697116225) (Make sure you get the 1" thread)
> 1 X _38MM 1-1/2" 1.5" Sanitary Ferrule Elbow 90 Degree Pipe Fitting SS316 Tri Clamp (121338690388)_
> 1 X _1/2"-2" 12MM-57MM Sanitary Hose Barb Ferrule Pipe Fitting SS316 Tri Clamp Type (112693304117)_
> 3 X_ 1.5" Tri Clamp Clover Sanitary Fits 50.5MM OD Ferrule Flange Stainless Steel 316 (122864193442)_
> 3 X _1-1/2" 1.5" 38MM Silicon Gasket Fits 50.5MM OD Sanitary Tri Clamp Type Ferrule (122864199623)_
> And the valve : _1-1/2" 38mm SS304 Stainless Steel Sanitary 1.5" Tri Clamp Butterfly Valve (401385200948)
> _
> Just check that all the fittings are 1.5" tri-clamp, as some of the listings let you choose between different sizes. Hope this helps.
> Cheers.



Thanks! Order placed.


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## steveoonline

Genius! I ordered this stuff last night.

The std valve would get blocked for me. The increase in size should make a big difference. Will be able to fill it from the bottom too.

Now if only they'd make a 50lt fermentasaurus...


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## The Punt

wide eyed and legless said:


> If KK don't get on to this they have got to be either mad or both, optional extras if ever there was.


Maybe I should've got the design patented... Maybe Kegking will offer me a job


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## The Punt

Mr B said:


> Are the butterfly valves a true no disassembly for cleaning (unlike a ball valve)?


The butterfly valves are much more sanitary than the ball valves as they don't trap any beer/wort/liquid/germs inside the bore of the ball when closed. But using the butterfly valve under pressure on the fermenter MAY cause a small amount of wort to get pushed up between the seal and the axle that connects to the handle. If the seal is in good condition, this probably shouldn't happen. The valve is easy to disassemble though, for the occasional clean (if only for peace of mind). Next time i've got it apart, i'll take a couple of photo's to show you what I mean.


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## S.E

The Punt said:


> So, I _decommissioned _an old corny keg that had a dodgy lid seal, took the long dip tube out and used it to replace the short dip tube attached to the beer out post on the fermentasaurus pressure lid. This dip tube works the same way as the dip tube in a corny keg, but ends about 10cm from the bottom of the fermenter, which, due to its conical shape, is only about 2L of dead space. Depending on how much trub has settled in the bottom of the fermenter, the last 2L in the conical is usually no good anyway. You could always buy a longer dip tube for a 25L corny keg, then its just a matter of dropping the trub to below where the dip tube ends. You could also attach a mesh screen to the end of the dip tube to filter out hop particles if dry hopping your beer.


You could use a short gas post and floating dip tube here. The advantage apart from being able re assemble your corny keg is you would be drawing beer from the top so you could keg the first 19Lbefore the rest has cleared. You have probably noticed that as the yeast drops the top clears first.

I have a 15 gallon (holds about 58litres) corny with a floating dip that I ferment in occasionally.


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## S.E

The Punt said:


> The other mod I did was to the dip tube/hose that comes with the pressure lid kit. The silicone hose attaches to the underside of the lid by fitting INSIDE a small length of tube (that is identical to a gas dip tube out of a corny keg) and floats on top of the wort/beer by attaching to a stainless float. This allows you to draw the beer from the top of the fermenter (which is clearer), but the ball has a habit of sticking to the sides of the fermenter, which sucks up a bit of crud, and the hose VERY easily detaches from the float and the tube under the lid. If this happens, you can still get the beer out via siphoning, or through the dump valve, but both of these are less than ideal.


I’ve just remembered that these things come fitted with a floating dip and went back to re read your post and see I completely missed the bit that you replaced it because the ball was sticking and giving trouble.

The float I use is a Cask Widge and has never stuck to the side of my 15 Gallon corny. I bought it in the UK a few years ago but thought I saw that one of the site sponsors stock them here.

Here are the spare floats on the UK website: http://www.caskwidge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=lYXHXkbd6FU8sKDkmSi5x1
they also have a ss hop screen fitted.


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## The Punt

Yeah, a floating dip tube hose to pull clear beer from the top is good in theory, but the one supplied with the pressure lid isn't a great design. If the silicone tube was a bit larger in diameter, it could be clamped over the short dip tube to prevent it becoming detached. Same for the float end of the tube. I like the idea of the hop screen.


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## markp

The Punt said:


> Yeah, a floating dip tube hose to pull clear beer from the top is good in theory, but the one supplied with the pressure lid isn't a great design. If the silicone tube was a bit larger in diameter, it could be clamped over the short dip tube to prevent it becoming detached. Same for the float end of the tube. I like the idea of the hop screen.



The silicon hose supplied does slip over the original short dip tube, I have it set up like that on my fermentasaurus and never slips off. 
Cheers.


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## Kev R

The butterfly valves are more expensive and there is the obstruction of the butterfly in the bore. ( I think that may be the cause of blockages with the original valve) The sanitary ball valves have no obstruction. Disassembly cleaning, the 2 parts of the body, body seal, 2 ball seals and stem and seals + reassembly 5 min tops and im'e 100% sure that it's clean


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## buckerooni

a


The Punt said:


> Right, I got all the bits for this mod from *2014online* (http://stores.ebay.com.au/2014online/) EXCEPT the actual valve, which I got from *2008mysky (*http://stores.ebay.com.au/2008mysky/) but I have seen these valves on _KegKing's_ website.
> The parts are:
> 1 X _DN15-DN50 1/2"-2" Sanitary Female Threaded Ferrule Pipe Fitting Clamp Type SS316_ (112697116225) (Make sure you get the 1" thread)
> 1 X _38MM 1-1/2" 1.5" Sanitary Ferrule Elbow 90 Degree Pipe Fitting SS316 Tri Clamp (121338690388)_
> 1 X _1/2"-2" 12MM-57MM Sanitary Hose Barb Ferrule Pipe Fitting SS316 Tri Clamp Type (112693304117)_
> 3 X_ 1.5" Tri Clamp Clover Sanitary Fits 50.5MM OD Ferrule Flange Stainless Steel 316 (122864193442)_
> 3 X _1-1/2" 1.5" 38MM Silicon Gasket Fits 50.5MM OD Sanitary Tri Clamp Type Ferrule (122864199623)_
> And the valve : _1-1/2" 38mm SS304 Stainless Steel Sanitary 1.5" Tri Clamp Butterfly Valve (401385200948)
> _
> Just check that all the fittings are 1.5" tri-clamp, as some of the listings let you choose between different sizes. Hope this helps.
> Cheers.



awesome, brilliant stuff! I'm hoping this gives more clearance under the unit, so I can potentially lower the unit a little (cut/mod the base) so I can fit it (with the pressure) kit into a fridge I have lined up that is about 50mm too short with a standard 'sauras (fingers crossed).


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## blotto

markp said:


> The silicon hose supplied does slip over the original short dip tube, I have it set up like that on my fermentasaurus and never slips off.
> Cheers.


Yeah I've got mine set up with the hose over the dip tube and over the tube on the float, pushing it inside is incorrect. @The Punt you need to watch the keg king youtube vids that explain how to set up the fermentasaurus because it sounds like your doing that part wrong, not that it matters now you've gotten rid of the float.


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## mashmaniac

The whole idea of TC fittings is they are sanitary, there are no threads for nasties to hide. I'm not knocking the OP, just remember there is still a few spots there that will need a thorough cleaning. I have a stainless conical, to clean I simply hose out , fill with perc (soak 1 hour), drain, strip the TC's and dump them in a bucket of perc till next use, then star san every thing before use. That regime won't work with this there are still threads to scrub.
Maybe MKII will be closer to the mark, these are probably closer to the mark for simplicity of cleaning with similar upgrade to whats shown here.


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## buckerooni

wow, the 2014online blokes are fast - delivered in 8 days! still waiting for the butterfly valve...


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## buckerooni

thanks Punt, can fit this in a 450L fridge


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## The Punt

@markp and @blotto you guys are right, the silicone tube DOES fit over the dip tube and float. I have gone back to using the float after having a near disaster with an IPA I made recently that blocked BOTH the_ gas in _and the _beer out_ disconnects. Don't ask....
Also, as far as sanitizing goes, if you remove all the tri-clamp fittings and loosen the lock ring, you can then fill a _Bunnings 5 litre handy pail_ with your sanitizer of choice and let the bottom section of the fermenter soak overnight without unscrewing the plastic/stainless bits. I am yet to have a problem with infection...yet.


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## peterlonz

I like the very workmanlike approach to these mods. Well chosen components dealing with fairly obvious problems.
Pity that the manufacturer did not see the glaring need because solving with plastic parts in volume would not add greatly to the overall cost.
On the basis of what appears above I will delay any proposed purchase I had floating around in my head.


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## Peta

The silicone hose for the float can be put OVER the post on the pressure lid. It has never come off for me. Not sure the keg intake is a great mod ...


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## shacked

@/// check this out!


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## wide eyed and legless

You guys who have removed the original butterfly valve from the bottom of the FV, have you thought about refitting it at the top close to the opening, you could put your dry hops in the bottle and when you are ready to dry hop open the butterfly valve and drop the hops in.
The problem with the curvature could be overcome making a thicker silicone washer to get a good seal.


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## Grok

Waking up an old post!
A very cheap mod for the Gen1 (and others) Fermentasaurus that brings everything up to work height in a chest freezer/fridge using standard garden hose fittings and a small mod on the collection bowl. This could be done neater I'm sure, but I wanted to see if it works, and it does!
The stand is used upside down and the whole height is about 720mm, just enough to fit inside the chest freezer with the lid closed. You could get less height by using right angled posts as well.
This setup is for pressure fermenting and uses the pressure to force the trub out the end of the hose into whatever you want like a jug, or you can use the bowl and valve components upside and bleed off the air from the gas post to fill the bowl.
But whats best of all, is you now have is a CO2 or oxygen direct injection chamber. By placing clarifying agent, or hops slurry or liquid into the bowl, screw the (closed) valve assembly on it, turn it upside down and plug into the hose coming from the bottom of the fermenting tank. If your using co2, you could remove any oxygen in the bowl by letting some content from the pressured tank to back flow a bit, then purge through the (now) top gas post button, and then attach the gas of choice to the the gas post at say about 20 psi. This bit is important, lower the pressure inside the tank temporarily via the relief valve and then open the bowl valve for about 10 secs. The aim is to get the liquid shooting straight up into the centre of the wort followed by lots of vigorous bubbles to spread and mix it into the wort. The technique works well and is borrowed from using the WW pressure fermenter for the last 3 years or so, produces delicious beer and saves on co2 as well.
I ferment at 20psi, and serve at 20 psi because I like lots of bubbles, works for me!












or make your own outta PVC bits.


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## Bruer

Not sure if it's mentioned elsewhere on AHB, but a great way to introduce dry hops without oxygen is using magnets.

Its as simple inserting a magnet in a hop sock and put it inside the fermentor. Have a magnet on the outside to hold it in place.Then simply pull the external magnet away and the hops drop into the beer.

If a hop sock ain't your thing I'm sure you could rig a stainless shot glass or cup with magnets to up-end the contents (your dry hops) into your beer.


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## buckerooni

changed over to a QD fitting, no more explosive moments around the shed!


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## gusterminator

Grok said:


> Waking up an old post!
> A very cheap mod for the Gen1 (and others) Fermentasaurus that brings everything up to work height in a chest freezer/fridge using standard garden hose fittings and a small mod on the collection bowl. This could be done neater I'm sure, but I wanted to see if it works, and it does!
> The stand is used upside down and the whole height is about 720mm, just enough to fit inside the chest freezer with the lid closed. You could get less height by using right angled posts as well.
> This setup is for pressure fermenting and uses the pressure to force the trub out the end of the hose into whatever you want like a jug, or you can use the bowl and valve components upside and bleed off the air from the gas post to fill the bowl.
> But whats best of all, is you now have is a CO2 or oxygen direct injection chamber. By placing clarifying agent, or hops slurry or liquid into the bowl, screw the (closed) valve assembly on it, turn it upside down and plug into the hose coming from the bottom of the fermenting tank. If your using co2, you could remove any oxygen in the bowl by letting some content from the pressured tank to back flow a bit, then purge through the (now) top gas post button, and then attach the gas of choice to the the gas post at say about 20 psi. This bit is important, lower the pressure inside the tank temporarily via the relief valve and then open the bowl valve for about 10 secs. The aim is to get the liquid shooting straight up into the centre of the wort followed by lots of vigorous bubbles to spread and mix it into the wort. The technique works well and is borrowed from using the WW pressure fermenter for the last 3 years or so, produces delicious beer and saves on co2 as well.
> I ferment at 20psi, and serve at 20 psi because I like lots of bubbles, works for me!
> 
> 
> View attachment 115758
> View attachment 115759
> View attachment 115760
> View attachment 115761
> View attachment 115762
> View attachment 115764
> View attachment 115765
> View attachment 115766
> View attachment 115767
> 
> or make your own outta PVC bits.
> View attachment 115768


What is the part number or name of the fittings you used to screw into the fermentasaurus? the components that adapt the plastic bottom of the fermentasaurus to the 90 hose barb? Does regular 3/4" hose fittings fit?

Thanks,


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## Grok

gusterminator said:


> What is the part number or name of the fittings you used to screw into the fermentasaurus? the components that adapt the plastic bottom of the fermentasaurus to the 90 hose barb? Does regular 3/4" hose fittings fit?
> 
> Thanks,


Yes, just standard 3/4 garden hose fitting. I advise you to get the brass, not the plastic swivel ones because they leak in a short time. The brass right angle ain't cheap, but you won't have any trouble with it.


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## The Lazy Brewer

Perfect! Just what i was looking for. Now got to wait 4 weeks for the China Express to get me my bits. Better get a brew on in the meantime.


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## Engibeer

Grok said:


> Waking up an old post!
> A very cheap mod for the Gen1 (and others) Fermentasaurus that brings everything up to work height in a chest freezer/fridge using standard garden hose fittings and a small mod on the collection bowl. This could be done neater I'm sure, but I wanted to see if it works, and it does!
> The stand is used upside down and the whole height is about 720mm, just enough to fit inside the chest freezer with the lid closed. You could get less height by using right angled posts as well.
> This setup is for pressure fermenting and uses the pressure to force the trub out the end of the hose into whatever you want like a jug, or you can use the bowl and valve components upside and bleed off the air from the gas post to fill the bowl.
> But whats best of all, is you now have is a CO2 or oxygen direct injection chamber. By placing clarifying agent, or hops slurry or liquid into the bowl, screw the (closed) valve assembly on it, turn it upside down and plug into the hose coming from the bottom of the fermenting tank. If your using co2, you could remove any oxygen in the bowl by letting some content from the pressured tank to back flow a bit, then purge through the (now) top gas post button, and then attach the gas of choice to the the gas post at say about 20 psi. This bit is important, lower the pressure inside the tank temporarily via the relief valve and then open the bowl valve for about 10 secs. The aim is to get the liquid shooting straight up into the centre of the wort followed by lots of vigorous bubbles to spread and mix it into the wort. The technique works well and is borrowed from using the WW pressure fermenter for the last 3 years or so, produces delicious beer and saves on co2 as well.
> I ferment at 20psi, and serve at 20 psi because I like lots of bubbles, works for me!
> 
> 
> View attachment 115758
> View attachment 115759
> View attachment 115760
> View attachment 115761
> View attachment 115762
> View attachment 115764
> View attachment 115765
> View attachment 115766
> View attachment 115767
> 
> or make your own outta PVC bits.
> View attachment 115768




Gold!

Damn, homebrewers are crafty!


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## Trippinonprozac

Tips and tricks for keeping the pickup tub off the side wall? The float sticks and the inlet is above the liquid. I had to shake and rock the fermenter to get it to draw, storing up the yeast etc in the process.


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## OATY1KENOBE

Take the float off, put a stainless 12mm nut or similar over the tube. put float back on. it's enough weight to keep the tube end under the liquid surface.


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## wide eyed and legless

Trippinonprozac said:


> Tips and tricks for keeping the pickup tub off the side wall? The float sticks and the inlet is above the liquid. I had to shake and rock the fermenter to get it to draw, storing up the yeast etc in the process.


Get a stainless steel swivel from a fishing tackle shop and attach it to the float so when the float comes in contact with the side it just rolls along.


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## Fro-Daddy

I just tap the side of the vessel and it moves away from the wall.


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