# BRY 97



## DAC (22/2/14)

Pitched as per instructions 20 hrs ago and still nothing.
Temp con fridge, wort @ 18'c. 1.051 O.G used it before with no trouble, vac seal packet.
I'll give it a couple more hours & then
Good stir?? Re-pitch ??
Any thoughts?


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## Tilt (22/2/14)

Patience my brother - this yeast is well known for a long lag time. Give it at least 48 hrs before you consider anything


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## DAC (22/2/14)

tilt said:


> Patience my brother - this yeast is well known for a long lag time. Give it at least 48 hrs before you consider anything


thank's tilt, I let her be for a tad longer.
Can't recall wether it was notto or 97 that was going by this time/last.


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## lukiferj (22/2/14)

DAC said:


> thank's tilt, I let her be for a tad longer.
> Can't recall wether it was notto or 97 that was going by this time/last.


Notto would be almost done by now


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## 431neb (22/2/14)

After bashing out brew after brew with US-05, BRY-97 can be somewhat of an enigma. Treat it like a moody bitch and keep your distance until you know what is going on.

Some reading on BRY-97.

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/76097-toss-the-brew-danstar-bry97/

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/71445-danstar-bry-97/

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/63344-a-new-dry-yeast/


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## Spiesy (22/2/14)

DAC said:


> Pitched as per instructions 20 hrs ago and still nothing.
> Temp con fridge, wort @ 18'c. 1.051 O.G used it before with no trouble, vac seal packet.
> I'll give it a couple more hours & then
> Good stir?? Re-pitch ??
> Any thoughts?


I know you said, as per instructions - but not clarify...

Hydrated?
Oxygenated wort?


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## BeerNess (22/2/14)

even hydrated yeast and oxygenated wort, I can be waiting 48+ hours for this one to start going... especially 16-18*C ... watched pot never boils is my mantra with bry-97


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## Screwtop (22/2/14)

Spiesy said:


> I know you said, as per instructions - but not clarify...
> 
> Hydrated?
> Oxygenated wort?


My thoughts also. Never had a problem with this yeast, never been slow to start, always clean produces great beer. Do you pitch 1g/Litre as recommended??

Screwy


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## Screwtop (22/2/14)

tilt said:


> Patience my brother - this yeast is well known for a long lag time. Give it at least 48 hrs before you consider anything


Never longer than 24Hrs here!!!!!!!


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## HBHB (22/2/14)

So, when you say there's nothing happening, how are you gauging this? Airlock activity or hydrometer reading or krausen not climbing out the airlock trying to have it's way with the family pooch?

If it's causing you to lose sleep, dizziness from pacing the hallway in circles etc, then a hydrometer reading in 2 days time will reveal all is well in the cylindrical kingdom of yeast. until then, rest, have a home brew and relax.


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## OzPaleAle (22/2/14)

Never really got this meme thing but this seems appropriate.


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## DAC (22/2/14)

Good info fella's, yes it was rehydrated & wort was chugged, slashed into fermenter from cube.
But was only 1 packet for 23lt of 1.051.
Would it be to late to add another?
My concern was no krausen activity(glad wrap)


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## Screwtop (22/2/14)

Ready.......... Fire..........Aim!

Next time follow the instructions.

Screwy


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## DAC (22/2/14)

Agree Scewtop, always been under the adoption 1pk is enough unless going over 1.060OG.
I do have another pk, worth throwing in now ??
There is pressure building under glad wrap ATM.


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## Yob (22/2/14)

I've usually only pitched a single pack when gravity is under 1050, anything north of that can better with a double pack. 

Take a reading, if it's dropping stick with it, if it's not, rehydrate and pitch and aerate again... Well, it's what I'd do anyway. 

Cheers


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## Spiesy (22/2/14)

BeerNess said:


> watched pot never boils is my mantra with bry-97


lies. I see pots boil every week.


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## DAC (22/2/14)

Yob, sounds good. I'll take a reading in the morn.
Cheers every 1.


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## Yob (22/2/14)

Do it as soon as you can, if you are going to pitch more you don't want active fermentation to kick off, you want it to be still in growth


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## TidalPete (22/2/14)

> I've usually only pitched a single pack when gravity is under 1050, anything north of that can better with a double pack.


Without wanting to upset anyone  I tend to go with the above even though I have yet to give BRY-97 a try.
Have used a single pack of Notto for yonks in brews under 1050 no problems (Rehydrating as instructed) & what with BRY-97 being from the same stable with the same instructions can't see why the same results wouldn't apply?

Just my 2 cents.


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## Batz (22/2/14)

TidalPete said:


> Without wanting to upset anyone  I tend to go with the above even though I have yet to give BRY-97 a try.
> Have used a single pack of Notto for yonks in brews under 1050 no problems (Rehydrating as instructed) & what with BRY-97 being from the same stable with the same instructions can't see why the same results wouldn't apply?
> 
> Just my 2 cents.


Agree with ya Pete, and Notto showing results in around 8-12 hours.

Why would you bother?


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## Screwtop (22/2/14)

You would bother after tasting the results from pitching one pack. Not my 2c worth, but actually posted from experience. Think to date I have used more than 20 packs of this yeast. Never bothered pitching more than 1 pack when using Notto in dark ales, but I hate the result from pitching one pack of it to a pale ale.


Screwy


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## Batz (22/2/14)

Screwtop said:


> You would bother after tasting the results from pitching one pack. Not my 2c worth, but actually posted from experience. Think to date I have used more than 20 packs of this yeast. Never bothered pitching more than 1 pack when using Notto in dark ales, but I hate the result from pitching one pack of it to a pale ale.
> 
> 
> Screwy


Fair enough Mike, I must say years ago this was my yeast of choice and I guess that I would have used well over 50 packs of the stuff. 

In all that time I have never used it in a pale ale. I'm a bit over Notto these days, but do a bit of a search back 10 years or so, 
this site will show my love for it.

Oh and brew with it cool, 15c is excellent for an Alt.


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## Screwtop (22/2/14)

Batz said:


> Fair enough Mike, I must say years ago this was my yeast of choice and I guess that I would have used well over 50 packs of the stuff.
> 
> In all that time I have never used it in a pale ale. I'm a bit over Notto these days, but do a bit of a search back 10 years or so,
> this site will show my love for it.
> ...


And an excellent Alt it is too!!!


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (22/2/14)

Done Notto at 14 degrees fairly regularly and it's excellent in these conditions.


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## Batz (22/2/14)

It is, but after many years brewing and refining all you processes dry yeasts really don't cut it. It's a secondary option if you don't have the real thing available.

For me a dry yeast is for emergencies only.

Batz


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## Mr. No-Tip (22/2/14)

OP, my last BRY97 pitch is described in one of those liked threads above. I got a 72 hour lag last time I used the thing. I've had 12 hours off it, too. Obviously wort composition can vary, but both of those varied lags were fully oxygenated ~1.050 brews. My end takeaway is that I am over using the yeast myself, but I wouldn't stress till 48 hours at least.


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## carniebrew (22/2/14)

DAC said:


> Pitched as per instructions 20 hrs ago and still nothing.
> Temp con fridge, wort @ 18'c. 1.051 O.G used it before with no trouble, vac seal packet.
> I'll give it a couple more hours & then
> Good stir?? Re-pitch ??
> Any thoughts?


A couple of weeks back I pitched re-hydrated BRY-97 on 17l of 1051 pale ale, no sign of krausen/fermentation for nearly 48 hours, then it fermented out in about 6 days after that.

Pitched re-hydrated US-05 on 21l of 1055 pale ale on Thursday, 20 hours later a solid krausen had started to form. Seems BRY is just a slow starter.


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## TidalPete (22/2/14)

> For me a dry yeast is for emergencies only.


+1
Can't fault that info.


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## DAC (23/2/14)

44 hrs later we have krausen!!


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## 431neb (23/2/14)

I love that I'm not the only one who gets out of bed a walks straight to the fermenter(s).


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## Screwtop (23/2/14)

Mr. No-Tip said:


> OP, my last BRY97 pitch is described in one of those liked threads above. I got a 72 hour lag last time I used the thing. I've had 12 hours off it, too. Obviously wort composition can vary, but both of those varied lags were fully oxygenated ~1.050 brews. My end takeaway is that I am over using the yeast myself, but I wouldn't stress till 48 hours at least.


A lot of years ago, maybe 2006 I carried out some oxygenation experiments, a search might reveal some of the outcomes. One surprising find was that dried yeast in oxygenated wort took longer to start. Lellemand/Danstar dried yeasts are manufactured containing 5% lipids. So long as you produce 3-5% alcohol beers no oxygen is required.

FROM THE LALLEMAND WEBSITE: When you produce 3-5% alcohol beer this is no problem. It is when you produce higher alcohol beer or inoculate at a lower rate, that you need to add O2 to produce more yeast and for alcohol tolerance near the end of fermentation. You definitely need added O2 when you reuse the yeast for the next inoculum.



431neb said:


> I love that I'm not the only one who gets out of bed a walks straight to the fermenter(s).


Haha more than you would ever think!

Screwy


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## DAC (23/2/14)

431neb said:


> I love that I'm not the only one who gets out of bed a walks straight to the fermenter(s).


was actually going to bed (shift work) but couldn't wait to wake up & check again. Lol.


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## lukiferj (23/2/14)

Morning routine. Put water for coffee onto boil. Check fermenter/s. Make coffee. Check AHB. Go to work 

Back on topic. I have given up on this yeast for now. Used it twice and both have had issues. One with an infection which was 'y first ever and the other just didn;t have the hop punch I was looking for. Both rehydrated as per manufacturers instructions. Never had a problem with any other yeast.


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## Screwtop (24/2/14)

Brewed yesterday, split the batch 21L in each fermenter. Pitched two packs of rehydrated BRY97 at 7.30pm last night, went to check this morning after 14Hrs. Wort in the Stainless Fermenter is active, the Plastic Fermenter has some positive pressure in the airlock but has not started properly just yet.

This yeast has never been slow to start for me!

Have a look, lots of blowoff tube activity from the batch in the Stainless Fermenter


http://s81.photobucket.com/user/ron_son/media/Brewing/VIDEO0100_zps7f7dac56.mp4.html

http://s81.photobucket.com/user/ron_son/media/Brewing/VIDEO0101_zps68b089f1.mp4.html


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## winkle (24/2/14)

lukiferj said:


> Morning routine. Put water for coffee onto boil. Check fermenter/s. Make coffee. Check AHB. Go to work
> 
> Back on topic. I have given up on this yeast for now. Used it twice and both have had issues. One with an infection which was 'y first ever and the other just didn;t have the hop punch I was looking for. Both rehydrated as per manufacturers instructions. Never had a problem with any other yeast.


I'm not a fan of it either . Similar results to Lukiferj. There are plenty of other yeast options.


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## stakka82 (24/2/14)

I have used about 20 packs of this yeast now.

I have had 2 distinctly different results depending on pitch rate:

1. Pitch under 0.8-1g per litre - Does not flocculate properly and weird tastes and very slow start
2. Pitch over 08-1g per litre - Clean beer with good clarity, start within 24 hours.

I used to be a non-rehydrator too but after doing both with this yeast I now rehydrate.

In summary, follow instructions!


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## Bribie G (1/3/14)

I haven't brewed for about six weeks and had a couple of cubes in the fementer fridge sitting at 2 degrees (insurance policy as the seals aren't 100%). Plus a schott bottle of BRY 97 slurry from a cream ale in the kitchen fridge also sitting at 2 degrees.

Last night I combined the lot in a fermenter around 8 pm, allowing it to warm up overnight and at 7 am this morning it was 20 degrees and going bonkers.

I'm running this one (another cream ale) through at 20 and interested to see how it ends up. With the liquid yeast argument, I have had clarity issues with all the chico yeasts I have used, Wyeast, Whitlabs, US-05 etc and BRY 97 so far is giving me exactly what I've been looking for - clean bright American blondes and cream ales.


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## kevo (8/4/14)

This has started to show some activity just short of 72 hours...

An infected cube shows signs of activity sooner than that. :angry:


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (9/4/14)

Just thought I'd give a quick anecdote. Punched out a couple of beers last weekend. Pitched yeast on Tuesday morning.

One was an APA (though through a SWMBO-induced brew day botch-up, I have a very bitter, lighter bodied 4.25% beer, but that's another story), the other a British Pale Ale.

The former beer had BRY97 (due to me brewing and then looking in the freezer and realising I have no US05), and the latter, good old Notto, again, thought I had Windsor and didn't.

I re-hydrated both. I'm in the habit of this now.

Notto typically finished on Friday, 1.009, with an Apparent Attenuation of 82%. Nothing unusual there.

But the BRY97 - I tested on Saturday for a larf, 1.008 with an Apparent Attenuation of 80.5%. It was off and running with the hydration within a day. No massively big krausen (for BRY97) but a solid probably 4 inches.

I can't pick this one, but I suppose it supports my gut feeling on rehydration, regardless of the debate, I feel better doing it.


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## pat86 (10/4/14)

Anyone doing APA or hoppy beers and tossing up between Bry97 and US05 - check out this link:

http://www.rebelbrewer.com/blog/yeast-experiment-american-session/

Full credit to the person on AHB who originally posted it in another thread (which unfortunately I can't find).

They did a side by side test with Bry97, US05, Mangrove Jacks West Coast M44 Dry yeast and White Labs WLP001. 

Good tracking of the ferment and some notes on the tasting as well! 

Spoiler Alert: they actually rated the Mangrove Jack M44 as the winner for balance. will have to give it a try I guess, haven't really seen much feedback on it before


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## Scooby Tha Newbie (10/4/14)

I love this thread,been wanting to try bry97 for ages. I will of course rehydrate then pitch. Got 60lts to get through first then it's bry time.


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## kevo (10/4/14)

Was approx 65ish hours between following the rehydration instructions and seeing this lazy single cell organism do anything.

If brewers yeast is a dog and Brett is a cat...what is BRY-97?


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## dammag (10/4/14)

A mangie old mutt who can't walk anymore :mellow: ?

I have had the same experience with BRY-97 and cannot see a reason to go back.


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## manticle (10/4/14)

hamster or guinea pig


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## pat86 (10/4/14)

has anyone on AHB done a yeast comparison with a split batch or the same recipe for say US05 / Bry97 and WLP001?

interested to see if people here think the same as the Rebel brewing link who thought Bry97 gave a dryer/ thinner body. I don't think I can brew that consistently to tell the difference between yeasts unless they are polar opposites...


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## kevo (11/4/14)

dammag said:


> A mangie old mutt who can't walk anymore :mellow: ?





manticle said:


> hamster or guinea pig


I had thought something a little more passive agressive than these...

BRY-97: I'll ferment your wort...in my own good time.


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## fletcher (11/4/14)

pat86 said:


> has anyone on AHB done a yeast comparison with a split batch or the same recipe for say US05 / Bry97 and WLP001?
> 
> interested to see if people here think the same as the Rebel brewing link who thought Bry97 gave a dryer/ thinner body. I don't think I can brew that consistently to tell the difference between yeasts unless they are polar opposites...


yes. in the only time i tried it, with no difference in process to my other brews, it stripped all hop character from the beer (39 IBU tasted like about 20). the beer also felt thin in the mouth. i won't be using it again in a hurry

EDIT: spelling


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## Foster (12/4/14)

Interesting thread.... has anyone pitched BRY 97 into a starter? If so, was still a slow starter when pitched into the fermie?

Cheers, Fozz


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## carniebrew (13/4/14)

Foster, see section 4 of the instructions pdf: http://www.danstaryeast.com/system/files/pdfs/tds-bry-97-american-west-coast-yeast-english.pdf

Dry yeast shouldn't be _directly_ pitched into starter wort, it's not designed for it. Either re-hydrate with water, or just sprinkle on top of your beer, depending on which deity you worship....

EDIT: changed text above to be more specific.


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## verysupple (13/4/14)

I assume Foster can't actually access files from carnie's local HDD, so here's the link to that doc 

http://www.danstaryeast.com/system/files/pdfs/tds-bry-97-american-west-coast-yeast-english.pdf?download=1


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## dicko (13/4/14)

Foster said:


> Interesting thread.... has anyone pitched BRY 97 into a starter? If so, was still a slow starter when pitched into the fermie?
> 
> Cheers, Fozz


Yes and No.

Made a starter from a scoop of slurry on Friday night.
Pitched it into a 1052 AAA on Saturday arvo at 5.30 pm.
Sunday morning going flat out.... it is 2.30 Sunday arvo now and I will go and take an SG reading.........right I am back and it is 1036 as I type. That is less than 24 hours

I have used this yeast quite a few times now and at first I bought two packs for a 21 litre brew and had quite good results.
I then tried making a 1.5 litre starter from just one pack and that gave excellent results.
I have done this a few times now with this yeast but this was the first time I had reused it from a slurry.

To be honest, I think that the brewers that are having trouble with this yeast with slow starts and poor ferments are underpitching.....yes it is a bummer to have to buy two packs for your 20 litre pitch.

I have found it ferments very cleanly and clears and attenuates well and while it may reduce the perceived bitterness a tad it is nothing like its Pommie sister the Nottingham.

Just my views


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## carniebrew (13/4/14)

verysupple said:


> I assume Foster can't actually access files from carnie's local HDD, so here's the link to that doc
> 
> http://www.danstaryeast.com/system/files/pdfs/tds-bry-97-american-west-coast-yeast-english.pdf?download=1


Thanks sup, It's been a looong day...have updated my post.


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## Foster (14/4/14)

*Thanks for the replies guys. Interesting to note the "do not pitch into a starter". I have pitched Safale 04 & 05 into starters 48hours prior to pitching & both work well for me.*


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## dicko (14/4/14)

Foster said:


> *Thanks for the replies guys. Interesting to note the "do not pitch into a starter". I have pitched Safale 04 & 05 into starters 48hours prior to pitching & both work well for me.*


According to dry yeast manufacturers some dried yeasts dont need oxygen as well but I note that they never seem to list under what circumstances this oxygen is not needed.
With AG brewing most boil wort at least for 60 minutes therefore driving off the oxygen from the wort.
I have found that a hit of o2 works wonders with dried yeasts and making a starter can only build numbers exactly the same as if a starter is made to build numbers with a liquid yeast. Rehydrating the yeast is probably OK provided the dried yeast has been stored well and is not old and is being pitched in the correct quantity.
These are only my observations, it is up to the individual as to how they use dried yeast.
My thoughts are that those little packets are directed at the home brewer and as such the instructions at times may not cover all situations.
I would be interested to hear from a commercial brewery that uses dried yeast as to wether they dont use oxygen in their wort.

Cheers


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## dent (14/4/14)

carniebrew said:


> Foster, see section 4 of the instructions pdf: http://www.danstaryeast.com/system/files/pdfs/tds-bry-97-american-west-coast-yeast-english.pdf
> 
> Dry yeasts shouldn't be made up into starters, they're not designed for it. Either re-hydrate with water, or just sprinkle on top of your beer, depending on which deity you worship....


It says no such thing?

This is terrible advice. Even if you wish to follow the rehydration instructions by-the-book there's no reason you can't pitch the rehydrated yeast to a starter. If you were to do so, oxygenation on the actual wort would then be recommended. In the end, that method would provide the healthiest and most abundant yeast. 

Of course, this is not required, but to say it would be detrimental is wrong.


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## carniebrew (14/4/14)

To be specific, you shouldn't be pitching your DRY yeast into starter wort. The instructions are explicit on this.

As for re-hydrating and then pitching the resultant cream into a starter, _my understanding_ is that this is not recommended, as the dry yeast has been packaged in such a way that it is ready (from a reproductive point of view) to be pitched into your beer, rather than re-producing in a starter first. If you're looking to increase the cell count prior to pitching, using multiple packets of dry yeast is a better option than growing in a starter.

I'm not an expert by any means, it's just what my research had turned up. To be honest I'd never heard of anyone pitching re-hydrated dry yeast into a starter until dent's post, so it seems (not surprisingly) there's a completely different school of thought in this area of yeast too. No surprises there!

EDIT; I should supply a reference..here's one I recall. Page 285 of "Brewing Classic Styles" by Jamil Z and John Palmer:




> You generally don't want to make a starter for dry yeast. It is usually cheaper and easier to buy more dry yeast than it would be to make a starter. For dry yeasts, just do a proper rehydration in tap water; do not make a starter.


Bit harsh calling that "terrible advice", especially for a Moderator, but it seems yeast discussions evoke a lot of passion around this place.

The reference I can't find at the moment was about dry yeasts ability to 'bud'. Yeast reproduce asexually by budding, and I recall reading that there's a limit as to how many times they can do so. The thing I was reading was saying that dry yeast is prepared in such a way that a starter would quickly use up that limit, which is why it's recommended to use more re-hydrated dry yeast rather than a starter to increase cell count. I'll keep trying to find where I read that...and of course it could be just someone's opinion I'm regurgitating here.


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## Bribie G (14/4/14)

Referring back to my post of 1st March, I saved some slurry from that brew and pitched it again about ten days ago into a Kolsch style ale that's ready for kegging / bottling today (I'll shoot a couple of bottles off to the Grafton Show).

As with the last brew I got almost instant action, a reasonably fast fermentation but a lot of krausen, this yeast seems to gather at the top after fermentation like some of the other Chico yeasts, but on chilling down to -1 it drops like a rock and gives lovely clear beer.

I expect I'll need to bite the bullet and get some sachets of new yeast shortly but I find this is a perfect yeast for reusing yeast cake. Normally I wouldn't bother saving dry yeast, but when using it as slurry for repitching this yeast seems to be in its glory.


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## dicko (14/4/14)

carniebrew said:


> Bit harsh calling that "terrible advice", especially for a Moderator, but it seems yeast discussions evoke a lot of passion around this place.


The status of moderator doesn't deny anyone their thoughts or opinions on AHB. They (we) maintain the same posting rights and rules as anyone else.

Back to BRY 97


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## dent (14/4/14)

carniebrew said:


> Bit harsh calling that "terrible advice",


Maybe a little harsh.

I was mainly calling out "Dry yeasts shouldn't be made up into starters, they're not designed for it." as the "terrible" advice. I took the proscriptive interpretation of your remarks. Palmer's remarks you have quoted don't quite say the same thing, and I have no objection to those.

I appreciate the rests of your post - "not terrible".


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## verysupple (14/4/14)

carniebrew said:


> The reference I can't find at the moment was about dry yeasts ability to 'bud'. Yeast reproduce asexually by budding, and I recall reading that there's a limit as to how many times they can do so. The thing I was reading was saying that dry yeast is prepared in such a way that a starter would quickly use up that limit, which is why it's recommended to use more re-hydrated dry yeast rather than a starter to increase cell count. I'll keep trying to find where I read that...and of course it could be just someone's opinion I'm regurgitating here.


You might be remembering different things and mashing them together. Dr. Cone said that pitching dry yeast (after rehydration) into a starter might not be the best thing for the yeast as they will use the glycogen reserves that they had when they were packaged. If you pitch into a starter they use those reserves and have to build them up again to reproduce in the actual batch of beer. I can't find the reference right now but will update this post if I find it.

There is a finite number of times a cell can bud, but that's a different issue, I think, as it's unlikely you'll reach that limit in a starter or subsequent batch of beer.

EDIT: Just to be clear, Dr. Cone wasn't saying starters are always bad for dry yeast, just that you need to let the yeast build up their glycogen reserves before pitching the starter into the main wort.

EDIT2: I found the article I was looking for. Although Dr. Cone doesn't refer to starters _per se_, he does talk about the glycogen reserves about half way down his response. The same theory applies when making a starter, though - for a fast start in the main batch the yeast need to already have their reserves built up.


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## dent (14/4/14)

As I understand it, that problem would exist for any starter, be it from dry or liquid yeast.


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## verysupple (14/4/14)

dent said:


> As I understand it, that problem would exist for any starter, be it from dry or liquid yeast.


Yup. The argument for not making a starter for dry yeast is usually that most dry yeast packets actually contain enough yeast to ferment an "average" batch of ale without needing to build up the number of cells. So if you've already got enough cells, why deplete their reserves and then wait for them to build up again?


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## dent (14/4/14)

Same reasons as usual for more yeast - big batch, high gravity, or any lager.


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## mje1980 (14/4/14)

Wait a minute guys, which leg are you standing on when you pitch?? This makes a huge difference


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## verysupple (14/4/14)

dent said:


> Same reasons as usual for more yeast - big batch, high gravity, or any lager.


_*I *_get that, I was just regurgitating the usual argument from the naysayers. The other argument they commonly use is that it's cheaper to just buy more dry yeast than it is to make a starter. But I don't agree with that one either - at ~$6 for another 11.5 g pack of yeast or <$2 for enough malt extract for a 2 L starter...




mje1980 said:


> Wait a minute guys, which leg are you standing on when you pitch?? This makes a huge difference


That's nowhere near as important as which hand you use to pour the yeast.


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## Ross (14/4/14)

pat86 said:


> Anyone doing APA or hoppy beers and tossing up between Bry97 and US05 - check out this link:
> 
> http://www.rebelbrewer.com/blog/yeast-experiment-american-session/
> 
> ...


Was looking forward to the results of this until I saw the pics & noticed there's a big clump of BRY97 sat on top of the wort after 24hrs - If they haven't even bothered mixing it in there's no surprise it's taken so long.


Cheers Ross


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## carniebrew (16/4/14)

I wrote to Fermentis to ask their opinion on using re-hydrated dry yeast in a starter. The response I got is still not exactly definitive (give the use of "don't recommend"), but it's enough to personally keep me away from doing it:




> Dear Sir,
> 
> Thank you for your email and for your interest in Fermentis products.
> Our yeast range is designed for direct pitching and we don't recommend to put in place a propagation step
> ...


That link leads to an online book they've published, which is very clear about using either water or wort for re-hydration, but again doesn't seem to address the question of pitching it into a starter once re-hydrated.


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