# Over The Side Immersion Heater



## TidalPete (13/12/07)

G'day All,

I've done the search in both AHB & Google for a good quality hand-held OTS immersion heater & have come up with a Tobins --- Linky.
However, I'm interested in obtaining more than one option & am wondering what other brands\types of OTS immersion heaters you all use? Any links to your favourite would be appreciated.

The problem of the mash burning the element seems to have been solved by Screwtop some time back so I can see no reason why an immersion heater can't be used as a temporary option to a Hermes setup planned for the future?
Any comments fellas?

TP :beer:


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## MVZOOM (13/12/07)

I have the Tobin 2400w, it's good. I brew with this soley, no other heat source.

Cheers -Mike


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## SpillsMostOfIt (13/12/07)

I've got two of them. I've used them for the majority of my AG brews - the balance being done on the stove.

They're wonderful. My only issue is that the molded plastic around the top of the element that the cable enters into is not as strong as it could be. I am usually *very* gentle on equipment, but I have managed to break both of them. The first one let go of the cable and has been repaired by filling it with epoxy resin then a substantial amount of tape. The second has split in half. I will glue it back together. Eventually, I will install fixed elements and retain these for Extra Heat.

I think the main reason mine have gone is that I don't use them 'over the side' as they are designed to be. They are suspended from a rail that goes across the boiler, so are subjected to a much higher temperature than their maker intended. If you use them as they should be, I think you cannot go wrong.


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## aspro (13/12/07)

Gday TP

I get all my elements from http://www.grimwoodheating.com.au they have over the side and screw in ones as well I remember seeing a very large one used for 44 gallon drums but I cant find the site its on.

Cheers Aspro


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## Peter Wadey (14/12/07)

TP,
You can get the Grimwood brand through JR Turks.

Peter


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## Ross (14/12/07)

Not sure what brand mine is, but got it from "Ideal Electrical".
My advice is to get one designed for hard water, these have a black non-stick coating, rather than the chromed ones which are not meant for hard water. 


cheers Ross


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## bugwan (14/12/07)

Mine's about 40 years old! Nabbed it off eBay for about $30 a while back. I use it to correct all my temperature mistakes when mashing and to help heat up the sparge water if the 2200W kettle element isn't keeping up. Mine's about 2400W I think... good old Birko.
Cheers!

Pic in the gallery: Immersion heater


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## TidalPete (14/12/07)

Ross said:


> Not sure what brand mine is, but got it from "Ideal Electrical".
> My advice is to get one designed for hard water, these have a black non-stick coating, rather than the chromed ones which are not meant for hard water.
> cheers Ross



Rossco,

Non-stick would prevent the mash from burning the element I presume? 
I take it that you got yours somewhere on Southside? 
How much did it cost? 
Is the Teflon coating imposed over a coil of copper tubing?
Am I asking too many questions?

TP :beer:


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## Ross (14/12/07)

TidalPete said:


> Rossco,
> 
> Non-stick would prevent the mash from burning the element I presume? May help, but I've never burnt a mash with either.
> I take it that you got yours somewhere on Southside? Yes, Browns plains
> ...



cheers Ross


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## Cortez The Killer (14/12/07)

I'm surprised you don't stock them Ross

Another good seller I reckon would be lengths of Polycarbonate tubing for sight gauges - or even the whole sightglass weldless fitting

Cheers


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## TidalPete (14/12/07)

Rossco,

Cortez had a good question here?

Would you be willing to stock the best OTS Immersion Heater available for homebrewers?
I can wait a little while.

TP :beer:


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## Batz (14/12/07)

TidalPete said:


> Rossco,
> 
> Cortez had a good question here?
> 
> ...




I admit Pete craftbrewer is a good place to shop,but it really is not difficult to find immersion heaters out there.Or perhaps they don't give pensioner discounts?  

Batz


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## ausdb (14/12/07)

bugwan said:


> Mine's about 40 years old! Nabbed it off eBay for about $30 a while back. I use it to correct all my temperature mistakes when mashing and to help heat up the sparge water if the 2200W kettle element isn't keeping up. Mine's about 2400W I think... good old Birko.
> Cheers!


I have a birko as well but slightly newer, the handle is moulded bakelite but it still bends at 90 at the top like yours. I was lucky and acquired mine for nix!


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## TidalPete (14/12/07)

Batz said:


> I admit Pete craftbrewer is a good place to shop,but it really is not difficult to find immersion heaters out there.Or perhaps they don't give pensioner discounts?
> 
> Batz



Batzco :lol: ,

Unfortunately, neither does Rossco. 
Perhaps that will be rectified in the future???????
Tell us all about the best & cheapest OTS immersion heaters available to us $$$$ challanged brewers mate. 
I am sure that there are plenty of us who would treasure this info?
Sorry ausdub just missed your post.  

TP :beer:


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## Batz (14/12/07)

TidalPete said:


> Batzco :lol: ,
> 
> .
> I am sure that there are plenty of us who would treasure this info?
> TP :beer:




http://www.google.com.au/


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## the_fuzz (14/12/07)

Batz said:


> http://www.google.com.au/



Cheers Batz,

However, I can only seem to find distro's. not retail stores?

Anyone know anywhere in Sydney i can buy one?


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## Back Yard Brewer (14/12/07)

bugwan said:


> Mine's about 40 years old! Nabbed it off eBay for about $30 a while back. I use it to correct all my temperature mistakes when mashing and to help heat up the sparge water if the 2200W kettle element isn't keeping up. Mine's about 2400W I think... good old Birko.
> Cheers!
> 
> Pic in the gallery: Immersion heater



Likewise I also use one and I would have to say my birko would be around 25 yrs old. Works a treat. Cost me 25 bucks from the local Op Shop. I have actually picked up two through there in the last 6mths. Cheaper than paying around $100 new!! I have left my name down at the OP Shop should anymore come in. Even up to $40 would be a steal.

BYB


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## TidalPete (14/12/07)

Batz said:


> http://www.google.com.au/



As you can see from my first post I have already done that mate  .

Was just hoping that your superior computer knowledge could have rattled up a few more options?  

TP :beer:


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## Hogan (14/12/07)

TidalPete said:


> As you can see from my first post I have already done that mate  .
> 
> Was just hoping that your superior computer knowledge could have rattled up a few more options?
> 
> TP :beer:




Hey Pete - log back into the Tobins site and put in 4108b and 4108A. Run down the list and you will see it highlighted in blue. There are four immersion heaters listed. Both the A & B variety are immersion heaters at $81.75 I bought the 4108B 18 months ago and have used it numerous times to assist my HLT element and also as a step mash heater (but only once) If you look after them and don't run them out of liquid they will last a long time. I choose the 'hook' element so that I could suspend it off the side of my HLT or off a horizontal bar. I looked around at everything that was on offer at the time and found Tobins to be the best quality at the right price. But it's up to you.


Cheers, Hoges.


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## TidalPete (14/12/07)

Hogan said:


> Hey Pete - log back into the Tobins site and put in 4108b and 4108A. Run down the list and you will see it highlighted in blue. There are four immersion heaters listed. Both the A & B variety are immersion heaters at $81.75 I bought the 4108B 18 months ago and have used it numerous times to assist my HLT element and also as a step mash heater (but only once) If you look after them and don't run them out of liquid they will last a long time. I choose the 'hook' element so that I could suspend it off the side of my HLT or off a horizontal bar. I looked around at everything that was on offer at the time and found Tobins to be the best quality at the right price. But it's up to you.
> Cheers, Hoges.



Hoges,

Many thanks for your post mate but I think you will find (please correct me if I'm wrong), that the reason that they are cheaper is that they are steel/nickel plated & as such, are harder to spread open the coils (to eliminate burning of the coils in the mash) than the more expensive ($20 more) copper-coiled version.
As mentioned, it's the heating up of the mash that I am concerned about.  ATM the copper-coiled Tobins seems to be my best bet?

TP :beer:


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## SpillsMostOfIt (14/12/07)

TidalPete said:


> Hoges,
> 
> Many thanks for your post mate but I think you will find (please correct me if I'm wrong), that the reason that they are cheaper is that they are steel/nickel plated & as such, are harder to spread open the coils (to eliminate burning of the coils in the mash) than the more expensive ($20 more) copper-coiled version.
> As mentioned, it's the heating up of the mash that I am concerned about.  ATM the copper-coiled Tobins seems to be my best bet?
> ...



I've not modified mine. I insulate my mashtun/kettle a bit. I find that if I move the element around - use it to stir the mash - no scorching happens. Sure, you cannot just throw it in there and leave it, but (in the way I brew) it isn't an issue.

I'm not trying to talk you out of spending the extra cash, but I don't *think* the problem under discussion is an issue - at least is hasn't been for me to date. You can probably guess what will happen to me next brew...


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## deckedoutdaz (14/12/07)

tp, i had a 3.6kw element speciallymade, no warranty, no guarentees though, i've had it for years with no problems, use it with my 2.4kw, heats up 60 litres in no time....let me know if you need more info...

daz


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## Hogan (14/12/07)

TidalPete said:


> Hoges,
> 
> Many thanks for your post mate but I think you will find (please correct me if I'm wrong), that the reason that they are cheaper is that they are steel/nickel plated & as such, are harder to spread open the coils (to eliminate burning of the coils in the mash) than the more expensive ($20 more) copper-coiled version.
> As mentioned, it's the heating up of the mash that I am concerned about.  ATM the copper-coiled Tobins seems to be my best bet?
> ...




Pete - It would not matter what it is made of or how far spread the coils were - if you did not keep it moving constantly through the mash it would burn the grist. 

Those immersion heaters that are made of the more expensive material are made for a specialised job. The dearer ones are for heating heavy liquids or those containing special ingredients. Look at sites selling industrial drum heaters and you will see what I mean. 

So far as we are concerned we are heating a medium that is something one step above water, and that's all we need it to do. I bought the cheaper version for that purpose and can still spread the coils, although I have not found that necessary. 

Cheers, Hoges.


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## TidalPete (14/12/07)

Hogan said:


> Pete - It would not matter what it is made of or how far spread the coils were - if you did not keep it moving constantly through the mash it would burn the grist.
> 
> Those immersion heaters that are made of the more expensive material are made for a specialised job. The dearer ones are for heating heavy liquids or those containing special ingredients. Look at sites selling industrial drum heaters and you will see what I mean.
> 
> ...



Hoges,

Many thanks for your advice mate.
I am only going by my experience from seeing a fellow brewer's IH after he had used it to raise the temp in his mash a number of times. the coils had burnt grains stuck all over them.
I really have no experience at all myself with immersion heaters. I only know that he (Screwtop) solved the problem of the mash burning the element (even though he constantly stirred) on his IH by spreading the coils to allow the grains in the mash to pass through instead of collecting & sticking to his IH element



> My advice is to get one designed for hard water, these have a black non-stick coating, rather than the chromed ones which are not meant for hard water.



Ross may well have a point here. I have emailed Ideal Electrical & am waiting for a response.


Daz,

Am PM'ing you. Cheers.


TP :beer:


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## mossyrocks (26/2/08)

TidalPete,

Did you ever get a reply from Ideal Electrical?

Cheers,

mossy


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## TidalPete (27/2/08)

mossyrocks said:


> TidalPete,
> 
> Did you ever get a reply from Ideal Electrical?
> 
> ...



No I didn't mossy.

TP :beer:


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## kabooby (27/2/08)

I have the tobins one. I got mine from TLE Electrical wholesalers in Campbelltown.

Use it to assist in heating sparge water and adjusting mash temps

Only problem I have had is that the lead has come out of the handle a bit. Other than that its great

Kabooby


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## mossyrocks (27/2/08)

Hi,

I bought this item on Ebay :-

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...A:IT&ih=017

and was looking for an appropriate device to connect to it for my HLT.

Chris.


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## the_fuzz (27/2/08)

mossyrocks said:


> Hi,
> 
> I bought this item on Ebay :-
> 
> ...


?? Don't you just put the probe in the water? h34r:


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## mossyrocks (27/2/08)

Whats_Wrong_with_Hahn,

Excuse my ignorance, what is the power outlet connection for?

Chris


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## reg (27/2/08)

mossyrocks said:


> Whats_Wrong_with_Hahn,
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, what is the power outlet connection for?
> 
> Chris


The probe is your thermostat probe which controls the switching of the outlet via the dial setting.

So basically you plug your heating coil into the outlet and throw the probe into the liquid and it controls when the heating coil is on and off. To whatever temp you set the dial for


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## the_fuzz (27/2/08)

mossyrocks said:


> Whats_Wrong_with_Hahn,
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, what is the power outlet connection for?
> 
> Chris


 No worries,

Plug your elements power into the thermostat plug

Plug the thermostat into the wall

Put the probe into the water

Use the dial to set temp

Once the temp is reached, the thermostat will cut off power to the element and then turn it back on when required to get up to temp again - all it does is turn the power off and on constantly - it should work well


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