# Japanese Style Beer Recipe



## a1149913 (3/2/11)

Hey guys, im currently over in japan and have been in hokkaido where there are what i think are some pretty nice beers (such as suntory premium malts, sapporo black and sapporo yebisu). Back when i first started homebrewing i have a left over asahi clone pack from brewcraft. Since then ive ditched using beer packs and started BIAB. Ive decided i cant let this kit go to waste and id like some advice on making this average kit into something reasonable. 

The kit includes:
1.7kg beermakers larger
500g ricemalt (liquid)
1kg 50%, 25% 25% mix of dextrose and 2 other sugars?
Some hallertau finishing hops.
Left over from previous brews ive got, galaxy, hallertau, amarillo, and magnum hops. I really like the suntory premium malts, sapporo black and sapporo yebisu beers so if i can get close to those i:ll be happy. beerbelly has numerous other hops and just about all grains so if i need something else its not a problem to get.

All advice welcome, 
Thanks, Jacob


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## jakub76 (3/2/11)

I think you'll find that subtlety is key when it comes to these Japanese lagers. I'm a big fan of a variety of beer styles and delicate, pale lagers are no exception. 
Your recipe looks good as long as the kit is relatively fresh - otherwise you'll get some molasses flavours that really aren't appropriate. The most important part of this brew will be the fermentation. Yeast choice will be important but fermentation temperature will be most important. 
If you want anything like the commercial examples you mentioned you'll need some real lager yeast. My favourite is Wyeast 2038 as it leaves a malty, slightly sweet finish compared to other yeasts I've tried like WLP830. If you're not comfortable using liquid yeast then just grab some dried yeast like S-23 or 34/70. 
Finally you'll need to pitch and ferment at a controlled temperature, I would suggest 10C with a bump up to 12C after a week. Two weeks later you can prime and bottle then leave at ambient for two weeks to carbonate. 
Then fridge the bottles and keep them cold for at least another two weeks before expecting a clean tasting lager. A month in the fridge and I reckon it'll be pretty bloody good.
Best


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## XavierZ (3/2/11)

I'm using SafLager 34/70 right now.
Making a yeast starter is a must, as the strain is very temperamental albeit a yeast that has a better flavour profile.
Pitched the yeast at about 25dC and placed in the fermenting fridge set at 12dC 
and it's been going gang busters constantly since the weekend.


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## jakub76 (3/2/11)

XavierZ said:


> Pitched the yeast at about 25dC



I would never pitch a lager yeast at 25C, I'd rather pitch cold and have a day or two lag rather than beer that tasted like solvent. Each to their own I guess, if you're worried about your sanitation then I understand why you'd want the yeast going hard early but it will finish full of phenols and end up tasting more like a Belgian ale than a Japanese lager.


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## a1149913 (3/2/11)

sounds good. I have no troubles with temperature control and i'll probably use liquid yeast. I've started to harvest yeast so i can justify buying good yeast. 

The other question is should i add any grains? and what hops/hop profile should i use?

Thanks


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## XavierZ (3/2/11)

jakub76 said:


> I would never pitch a lager yeast at 25C, I'd rather pitch cold and have a day or two lag rather than beer that tasted like solvent. Each to their own I guess, if you're worried about your sanitation then I understand why you'd want the yeast going hard early but it will finish full of phenols and end up tasting more like a Belgian ale than a Japanese lager.



Fermentis recommends 27dC. B) 
The only time any of my brews tasted like solvent was when I brewed the entire time at high 20's  
Learnt that lesson REALLY early


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## dr K (3/2/11)

XavierZ said:


> Fermentis recommends 27dC. B)
> The only time any of my brews tasted like solvent was when I brewed the entire time at high 20's
> Learnt that lesson REALLY early



Oh 27c, really, is that here 34/70

where they say


> 80 to 120 g/hl for pitching at 12C 15C. Increase dosage for pitching below 12C, up to 200 to 300 g/hl at 9C



or somewhere else

K


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## jakub76 (3/2/11)

Jacob Thomas said:


> The other question is should i add any grains? and what hops/hop profile should i use?


Being an extract brew it'll probably finish a little high SG so there's no need to add any crystal malts for more body or sweetness. As for hops, Hallertau is my favourite. As you already have a hallertau hop bag, why not make a hop tea or boil it for 10min to get the most flavour out of it when you prepare your wort. Or you could throw it in the final few days of fermentation as a dry hop for a bit of aroma...choices.
Enjoy :icon_cheers:


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## manticle (4/2/11)

XavierZ said:


> Fermentis recommends 27dC. B)



Without double checking, I'd presume that's for rehydration, not pitching.

And after double checking - rehydration at 21-25 for dried lager yeast and 25-29 for ale from here: http://www.fermentis.com/fo/pdf/Tips-Tricks.pdf

Same document also has recommended start (ie pitching) temp at 12 deg for lager.


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## XavierZ (4/2/11)

dr K said:


> Oh 27c, really, is that here 34/70
> 
> where they say
> 
> ...




Oops.. Misread that. Must have been reading another datasheet at the time. It doesn't really matter though in the end.
_Alternatively, pitch dry yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20C_ which is what happened anyway!


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## manticle (4/2/11)

XavierZ said:


> Oops.. Misread that. Must have been reading another datasheet at the time. It doesn't really matter though in the end.
> _Alternatively, pitch dry yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20C_ which is what happened anyway!



How does it not matter? Not just to you but to other brewers reading the site and looking for advice.

Pitch at 12 or pitch at 27? massive difference.


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## XavierZ (4/2/11)

manticle said:


> How does it not matter? Not just to you but to other brewers reading the site and looking for advice.
> 
> Pitch at 12 or pitch at 27? massive difference.




I'm sure anyone reading this can see that I've made a mistake, admitted to it, learned a 
valuable lesson from it and they won't be following in my footsteps regarding this particular topic.

If there are still any issues with me or my posts, it might be best to contact an Administrator.


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## cdbrown (4/2/11)

Well next time pitch low and let it warm to ferment temp. First few days is where the yeast grow and will produce unwanted byproducts when at higher temps. I pitch my lagers around 8c and let it warm to 10c once ferment has started. Produces nice clean beers. Ales are pitched 16c and let go up to 18 then 20 over a few days.


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## manticle (4/2/11)

XavierZ said:


> I'm sure anyone reading this can see that I've made a mistake, admitted to it, learned a
> valuable lesson from it and they won't be following in my footsteps regarding this particular topic.
> 
> If there are still any issues with me or my posts, it might be best to contact an Administrator.




It was the 'doesn't matter' bit that I was referring to.

And no of course there's no need to contact admin - don't be so dramatic. I don't have issues with you or your posts - just that one remark.

Let's not get silly.


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## ashley_leask (4/2/11)

cdbrown said:


> Well next time pitch low and let it warm to ferment temp. First few days is where the yeast grow and will produce unwanted byproducts when at higher temps. I pitch my lagers around 8c and let it warm to 10c once ferment has started. Produces nice clean beers. Ales are pitched 16c and let go up to 18 then 20 over a few days.



I've just started doing the same, pitch 2 degrees below ferm temp, then up to the target temp after 24 hours.


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## a1149913 (4/2/11)

with dry beers, what kind of IBU should i be looking at? I couldn:t find any info for the beermakers lager can to see if should add some early hop additions. I:m thinking maybe a 5 or 10 min 28g hop addition of hallertau.

Whats a good multipurpose larger yeast i can use? I have a packet of s23 but im leaning towards liquid yeasts

JT


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## dr K (4/2/11)

> It was the 'doesn't matter' bit that I was referring to.


Thank you Manticle
Ignorance is one thing but spreading ignorance, especially by misquoting or down right deception is another.
The problem with the informality of so much of the interweb is that so much is taken being as correct, especially on discussion groups which have for want of another term "referability"
Thus when random deliberately misquotes or imagines a reference and then cites that reference the ignorance grows


> Oops.. Misread that. Must have been reading another datasheet at the time. It doesn't really matter though in the end.
> Alternatively, pitch dry yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20C which is what happened anyway!


What other datasheet, you cited Fermentis in your earlier post, was it Fermentis or Caltex Oils, and thus you infer that pitching lager yeast at 35C is OK as the manufacturer reccomends it. Patently obvious and patently stupid.
If you are happy to pitch a lager yeast at 27c then fine, you probably make great beer according to taste, your taste.
Just do not (randomly) cite, lest you incite...

K


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## a1149913 (22/2/11)

Ok guys so made the wort today. It's currently in the fridge chilling so i can pitch. I'm wondering if i should put in the dry enzyme. What exactly does it do?

Thanks, Jacob


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