# Ssr solid state relay



## peterl1981 (26/10/15)

I have been having problems with my brauduino controller ... it keeps scorching my beers.. as i was cleaning up from the brew on weekend i noticed the boil would boil flat out even now i would turn the temp down to below 99 degress..

So i have ordered a new ssr 40amp and a bigger one 75amp as the 49 would probably have same problem..

Is there a way to protect the ssr 

Im running a 5.5kw element

Cheers in advance..


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## sponge (26/10/15)

Have you calibrated the temp probe in 100'C water and 0'C water to make sure it's reading correctly?


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## MitchD (26/10/15)

Do you have the boil temperature set correctly?Your boil temperature will depend on altitude. I live at 600m above sea level amd my boil temp is set at 97, once it reaches temp it will allow you to adjust the power going through the element. For instance my 50l set up has a 5500w element and to boil 30l it only needs a duty cycle of 60%.

Boil temperature and duty cycle can both be programmed.

If you have that set it could be that the ssr is failing to open as it is controlled. The light will flash but the output will be stuck on. I have had that problem and solved it by adding a computer fan to blow air over the heat sink.


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## real_beer (26/10/15)

MitchD said:


> I have had that problem and solved it by adding a computer fan to blow air over the heat sink.


That will probably be the problem, use a bigger size heat-sink to dissipate the heat quicker on your new one.


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## peterl1981 (26/10/15)

Thanx guys once i get a boil and set the temp to even 50 degress it still boils the lights on controller are of and light on ssr go off.

I have a fan on heat sink already..

So i will give the 75 amp ago and hopefully it wirks better.. as i read some where you should allow atleast double amp rating for ssr.

I might put a fan over ssr aswell


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## lael (26/10/15)

Does it mash correctly? 
Have you modified the code?

It sounds like a fried SSR. From what I've read they generally die closed (power on), which would mean the microcontroller is no longer controlling the element. (Power on all the time).


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## peterl1981 (26/10/15)

lael said:


> Does it mash correctly?
> Have you modified the code?
> 
> It sounds like a fried SSR. From what I've read they generally die closed (power on), which would mean the microcontroller is no longer controlling the element. (Power on all the time).


yeah got a nee one from jaycar tonight works a treat thanx for your help..


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## Ducatiboy stu (27/10/15)

You should notice the boil come and go as the element kicks in

If it just goes flat out then its either the SSR or the output of the brewdino

Do a boil an when it is full boil with the temp sensor, remove/disconnect the output of the brewdino.

If it keeps boiling then the SSR is gone

If it stops boiling then its either 

A. A faulty brewdino output pin

B. The Config is not right

C. Your temp sensor might be shot ( which may be telling the brewdino that the water is still cold )


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## mabrungard (6/11/15)

You shouldn't use a temperature-controlled PID to control boiling. Physics is working against you since the temperature doesn't really change right around the boiling point. You are better off with a proportional or pulsed controller that can vary the power to the element from 0 to 100 percent. Just dial in the amount of power that produces an acceptable boil.


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## wessmith (6/11/15)

You beat me to it Martin. On our 500 and 1000 litre electric systems we have the elements switched in 4 stages to achieve the desired boil in the kettle. No way will a thermosat do the job properly and as you say, physics is against you. We do use proportional control on steam heated units but again the boil level is set by observation.

Wes


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