# Biab recipes?



## Skillz

Looking for tried and tested recipes that work well in a biab set up.
Share your best if you dare!


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## Schikitar

Check out this thread - https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/what-are-you-brewing-2018.97443/ - lots of cool stuff going on in there, but really it depends on what styles you are in to!


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## Rocker1986

I've got a red ale that I am always brewing. If you like red ales I'll post the recipe


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## Skillz

Sonds great Schikitar, im up to brew anything.
Havent tried a Red yet, first brew was the standard ipa and was pretty good, loved the malt flavors in it but have just found them changing as the beer ages and getting more sour/grassy[emoji848].


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## Skillz

Sorry, ment Rocher1986


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## Skillz

Bloody phone... Rocker1986


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## Rocker1986

Grassy would more likely be from hops than malt. Sour is usually a sign of infection.

Anyway, this is the red ale recipe, other than changing the yeast from US-05 to 1469 a couple of years ago it has remained unchanged since I first brewed it back in 2013 some time.

25 litre batch size, based on 75% brewhouse efficiency.
4.000 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett) (5.9 EBC) Grain 4 86.6 %
0.300 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 5 6.5 %
0.200 kg Carapils (Weyermann) (3.9 EBC) Grain 6 4.3 %
0.070 kg Black Malt (Thomas Fawcett) (1300.2 EBC) Grain 7 1.5 %
0.050 kg Acidulated (Weyermann) (4.5 EBC) Grain 8 1.1 % 
_Mash at 67C for 70 minutes, 72C for 15 minutes*, 78C mash out._

20.00 g Cascade [6.60 %] - First Wort 75.0 min Hop 9 15.0 IBUs
8.00 g Hallertau Magnum [10.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 10 8.3 IBUs
20.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 11 12.0 IBUs
30g Cascade dry hop near end of ferment.
_75 minute boil._

West Yorkshire Ale (Wyeast Labs #1469) Yeast
_Ferment at 18C.
_
Est Original Gravity: 1.0434 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.0127 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.0 %
Bitterness: 35.3 IBUs
Est Color: 31.9 EBC_
_
Don't be fooled by the lowish ABV, it is very flavorful and a lovely session ale. The Caraaroma is most dominant but the hops are present enough to balance it nicely. The latest one which I kegged on Saturday also featured an addition of oak chips when I dry hopped it. Keen to see how that went. With the hops, I just leave the Cascade and Centennial additions the same (AA% varies), and adjust the Magnum to keep the IBUs around 35. Sometimes I just increase the FWH Cascade if the Magnum ends up only being like 3g or something stupidly small.

*This mash step is optional. I incorporate it as it's meant to assist with head retention, but you don't have to do it.


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## Skillz

Sounds like a winner, a session beer would be good. Ill put an order in online for the ingredients and get brewing in the next few weeks.
Thanks


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## Rocker1986

No worries mate, good luck with the brew.


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## Skillz

hows this look?


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## Rocker1986

FG is a bit low but recipe looks good, what's the mash temperature set to in the software? The Cascade addition gets added when you remove the grain bag, or finish draining it. I usually let that addition steep for 15 minutes before I start bringing the wort to boil. If you like you could increase the amount of that addition and drop the Magnum. Up to you though.


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## Skillz

67c for 70 mins, 
72c for 15 mins.
Changed cascade to 20g
Dropped magnum to 4g
Now sit at 36.47ABV.


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## Skillz

36.47 IBU
Not making spirits here[emoji23]


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## Schikitar

You can set that first addition to "First Wort" in BrewersFriend, just FYI.

Recipe looks good though, what yeast did you set in there because that possibly explains the FG being lower (BrewersFriend won't account for mash temp)..

Oh, and make sure when you buy your hops you look at the packaging and update the AA in BF to reflect what you've bought - I've found those numbers to be off a few times and I've had to recalculate the additions accordingly..


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## Rocker1986

Seems a bit piss poor for it not to take into account mash temp when predicting FG readings, that's like one of the biggest influences on it. Anyway, I usually find this beer finishes around 1.012ish with the 67C mash temp and 1469 yeast. I've lost count of how many times I've brewed it now, but it's a regular on tap, probably gets brewed 4-5 times a year.


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## Schikitar

Rocker1986 said:


> Seems a bit piss poor for it not to take into account mash temp when predicting FG readings


Agreed, is there a formula for working that out? Does BeerSmith do that? I dunno, I've only ever used Ian's BIAB spreadsheet and BrewersFriend..


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## Skillz

Thanks for the hlp guys, put in safale us-05. Might give beer smith a go if in the long run its a better program.


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## Skillz

Anyone got a simple reliable oatmeal stout or alike that might match up with some of the grains or hops from the red ale recipe, as i have to order online it would be nice to get it all at once.


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## Schikitar

BF is fine, just be aware that it doesn't care about your mash temps when calculating gravities. Very general rule of thumb (as I understand it in simple terms);

High mash temp (eg. 67-69) = more unfermentables = more sweetness = higher than expected FG
Lower mash temp (62-64) = less unfermentables = drier finish = lower or expected FG
I typically aim in the middle there depending on what style, but somewhere between 65-67 for ales.

Because you've thrown in US-05 instead of what Rocker is using then the resulting FG is much lower compared to the yeast he prefers.



Skillz said:


> Anyone got a simple reliable oatmeal stout or alike that might match up with some of the grains or hops from the red ale recipe


Well this shouldn't be too hard, you can use Magnum (FWH) / Cascade (Flameout) in a stout no problem, then maris (~80%), caraaroma (~6%), black malt (~2%) and then maybe some chocolate or brown malt(~5%) and oats (~7%) - play with those numbers, that's just off the top of my head and could be very unreliable!


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## Rocker1986

Schikitar said:


> Agreed, is there a formula for working that out? Does BeerSmith do that? I dunno, I've only ever used Ian's BIAB spreadsheet and BrewersFriend..


Beersmith does it. I would have thought any decent brewing software would actually. I'd imagine there is some formula for working it out but I have no idea what it is. The yeast will of course affect the FG as well to a degree. 

That beer started out simply designed to taste like a pale ale but look red, hence why I originally used US-05 to ferment it. However, the influence from the Caraaroma set it apart and I changed the yeast to enhance it more but still finish dry enough that it didn't end up too chewy and sweet. 1469 did the trick.


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## Gloveski

Rocker1986 said:


> Grassy would more likely be from hops than malt. Sour is usually a sign of infection.
> 
> Anyway, this is the red ale recipe, other than changing the yeast from US-05 to 1469 a couple of years ago it has remained unchanged since I first brewed it back in 2013 some time.
> 
> 25 litre batch size, based on 75% brewhouse efficiency.
> 4.000 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett) (5.9 EBC) Grain 4 86.6 %
> 0.300 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 5 6.5 %
> 0.200 kg Carapils (Weyermann) (3.9 EBC) Grain 6 4.3 %
> 0.070 kg Black Malt (Thomas Fawcett) (1300.2 EBC) Grain 7 1.5 %
> 0.050 kg Acidulated (Weyermann) (4.5 EBC) Grain 8 1.1 %
> _Mash at 67C for 70 minutes, 72C for 15 minutes*, 78C mash out._
> 
> 20.00 g Cascade [6.60 %] - First Wort 75.0 min Hop 9 15.0 IBUs
> 8.00 g Hallertau Magnum [10.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 10 8.3 IBUs
> 20.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 11 12.0 IBUs
> 30g Cascade dry hop near end of ferment.
> _75 minute boil._
> 
> West Yorkshire Ale (Wyeast Labs #1469) Yeast
> _Ferment at 18C.
> _
> Est Original Gravity: 1.0434 SG
> Est Final Gravity: 1.0127 SG
> Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.0 %
> Bitterness: 35.3 IBUs
> Est Color: 31.9 EBC_
> _
> Don't be fooled by the lowish ABV, it is very flavorful and a lovely session ale. The Caraaroma is most dominant but the hops are present enough to balance it nicely. The latest one which I kegged on Saturday also featured an addition of oak chips when I dry hopped it. Keen to see how that went. With the hops, I just leave the Cascade and Centennial additions the same (AA% varies), and adjust the Magnum to keep the IBUs around 35. Sometimes I just increase the FWH Cascade if the Magnum ends up only being like 3g or something stupidly small.
> 
> *This mash step is optional. I incorporate it as it's meant to assist with head retention, but you don't have to do it.



I recently brewed Rocker’s red ale and can 2nd that it’s an awesome brew , keg was done very quickly , I used US05 but keen to try again with 1469


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## Skillz

How's this look guys?


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## Rocker1986

The only thing I'd do is change the colour rating on the Caraaroma. It's more around 180-190 lovibond. Beersmith had it too low as well and it threw out the colour rating of my red ale.


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## Skillz

Thanks for all the help, now i can order 2 brews with mostly matching ingredients. Cheers


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## MHB

I hope you realise that there is no such beast as a BIAB recipe.
Any all grain recipe can be brewed on any system using a heap of different mash, lautering, wort separation systems. It will be up to you as a brewer to optimise your milling, efficiency and other processes to suit your system.
This should be good news, it opens up a lot of recipes for you to use.

For BIAB you would generally mill a lot finer than you would for say a recirculating system, do a couple of brews, keep good records so you can calculate your efficiency and you can make any AG recipe work for you.
Mark


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## Schikitar

Skillz said:


> How's this look guys?


Yeah, looks pretty good for a first run at a sessionable stout. How do you like your stouts? Dry/thin, sweet/thick, coffee, chocolate, bitter? There's a few tweaks you could make to get the right outcome..


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## Rocker1986

Mark makes a good point actually. I had a different experience with the mill settings though, coarser worked better for me than finer, so I've stuck with it.


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## Skillz

Thanks for the input everyone, all helps make better beer.
I understand i can make all recipes work for biab, i was just looking for tried and true ones as these will be my first few brews.
When i have a greater understanding of grains to use, i will invest in a mill and do my own grinds and that way i can bulk purchase more. 
At the moment iam stuck with online only orders so i get the grind i get.
I will figure out all my efficiencies and losses soon and build up my brewing profile.

Enjoying the journey of learing and slowly upgrading.


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## MHB

I'm a bit lucky, my local (Brewman) lets you choose your grind, anywhere from very fine to very coarse, there are also a couple of hundred well tested recipes in BrewBuilder, I can even set up my batch size and efficiency and it will auto calculate all the malt and hops - worth having a look at.
At present you can get 20kg delivered to your door for about $21.00, 3-4 grain bills with hops landed, all packed in barrier bags.... Sounding like an ad, but I think its about the best service in Oz.
Mark


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## Skillz

Ill have a look, cheers.


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## Pat5456

I'm pretty new to BIAB brewing, but I came up with this IPA recipe to both experiment with a specific hop character and as the first trial on my temperature controlled fermenting fridge and it came out nicely. Having not tried Munich malt before I felt that it added depth to the malt profile while not taking away from the big pineappley Riwaka flavours. If anything I would have liked to up the dry hop a little but was all I had on hand...

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/577221/riwaka-ipa

As MHB said above I think the only real difference between most AG and BIAB recipes is in the fineness of the grind and that I usually add 1% of acid malt to my bill to bring the Ph down


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## Schikitar

Schikitar said:


> BF is fine, just be aware that it doesn't care about your mash temps when calculating gravities.


Just quoting myself because I have told a massive lie - BrewersFriend does take mash temp into account, the reason it never worked for me is because I was entering the times back to front! What a goose, anyway, I just needed to clarify as I just discovered my mistake!


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## MHB

Pat5456 said:


> I'm pretty new to BIAB brewing, but I came up with this IPA recipe to both experiment with a specific hop character and as the first trial on my temperature controlled fermenting fridge and it came out nicely. Having not tried Munich malt before I felt that it added depth to the malt profile while not taking away from the big pineappley Riwaka flavours. If anything I would have liked to up the dry hop a little but was all I had on hand...
> 
> https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/577221/riwaka-ipa
> 
> As MHB said above I think the only real difference between most AG and BIAB recipes is in the fineness of the grind and that I usually add 1% of acid malt to my bill to bring the Ph down


Acid malt is very useful!
Worth knowing that 1% of grist lowers the pH by 0.1points of pH.
Generally additions up to 5% of grist are no problem, that's enough to lower your pH from 6 to 5.5, or 5.8 to 5.3...
If your water has enough carbonate to put you outside your target pH range I would look at using some acid (lactic by preference).
Not related to BIAB V other methods, for any method optimising pH is just good brewing practice.
Mark


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## Skillz

Thought i would give an update on the stout as i just kegged it. Og 1.055.
Fg 1.018.
24 liters into the fermenter.
Spent 7 days at 17'c
5 at 20'c
Over the next 4 days was brought down and held at 1'c.
Tasted fine and surprised me with a fair bis of fizz in it.
Will carb at 6psi for a week then let you know the verdict.
Cheers.


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## Skillz

Update, stout is so so, put a bit of lemonade in it and its good.
But just wanted to let you know Rocker1986 that i just had the first glass of the Red and its a big thums up, very balanced and easy to drink, thanks for all the help from everyone.


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## Rocker1986

You'll probably find the stout improves with more time, it is a style that generally gets a lot better with long term ageing. I just brewed a big one yesterday using a reiterated mash, nearly 9kg grain for an OG of 1.0855 in 21-22 litres. It will go into the fermenter soon and be kegged away until next winter. 
Thanks for the comments on the red ale too mate, glad to hear it turned out well!


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## Nickedoff

Rocker1986 said:


> Grassy would more likely be from hops than malt. Sour is usually a sign of infection.
> 
> Anyway, this is the red ale recipe, other than changing the yeast from US-05 to 1469 a couple of years ago it has remained unchanged since I first brewed it back in 2013 some time.
> 
> 25 litre batch size, based on 75% brewhouse efficiency.
> 4.000 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcett) (5.9 EBC) Grain 4 86.6 %
> 0.300 kg Caraaroma (Weyermann) (350.7 EBC) Grain 5 6.5 %
> 0.200 kg Carapils (Weyermann) (3.9 EBC) Grain 6 4.3 %
> 0.070 kg Black Malt (Thomas Fawcett) (1300.2 EBC) Grain 7 1.5 %
> 0.050 kg Acidulated (Weyermann) (4.5 EBC) Grain 8 1.1 %
> _Mash at 67C for 70 minutes, 72C for 15 minutes*, 78C mash out._
> 
> 20.00 g Cascade [6.60 %] - First Wort 75.0 min Hop 9 15.0 IBUs
> 8.00 g Hallertau Magnum [10.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 10 8.3 IBUs
> 20.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min Hop 11 12.0 IBUs
> 30g Cascade dry hop near end of ferment.
> _75 minute boil._
> 
> West Yorkshire Ale (Wyeast Labs #1469) Yeast
> _Ferment at 18C.
> _
> Est Original Gravity: 1.0434 SG
> Est Final Gravity: 1.0127 SG
> Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 4.0 %
> Bitterness: 35.3 IBUs
> Est Color: 31.9 EBC_
> _
> Don't be fooled by the lowish ABV, it is very flavorful and a lovely session ale. The Caraaroma is most dominant but the hops are present enough to balance it nicely. The latest one which I kegged on Saturday also featured an addition of oak chips when I dry hopped it. Keen to see how that went. With the hops, I just leave the Cascade and Centennial additions the same (AA% varies), and adjust the Magnum to keep the IBUs around 35. Sometimes I just increase the FWH Cascade if the Magnum ends up only being like 3g or something stupidly small.
> 
> *This mash step is optional. I incorporate it as it's meant to assist with head retention, but you don't have to do it.



This is a great recipe. I just brewed this with Voss Kveik and it turned out really well. I'm sure it would be better with the West Yorkshire yeast but I'm happy with it (and it fermented out in 3 days).


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