# Inkbird PID and PT100 problems



## n87 (21/9/16)

Hi All,

I purchased this kit: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/322082156769?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=511010984209&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
with the PT100 option so it would fit in the thermowell, but, i m getting some weird and just plain wrong readings.

At its default, the probe measures close to correct at ~18C, but gets progressively out as temp goes up (and presumably down).
I worked out the PID was set for a 'K' type probe (set to 0). so i set it for a PT100 (21) and it tells me that it is ~ -200C... or error.

I would leave it as a K type with an adjustment, except that the scales are different so it wont work.

Has anyone got this setup working?
I will be messaging Inkbird, but i figured if someone out here in the wild knew, then it may be quicker.

Thanks


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## wildburkey (21/9/16)

I have a sestos and had a similar issue when I first wired up. Have you changed the settings to detect the correct probe? could also help to check the positive and negatives are wired correctly to the sensor probe. Hope this helps, I think the inkbird is much a much as mine but not 100%.


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## n87 (21/9/16)

I have set it to the correct probe (by the instruction booklet).
Do they have a +ve and -ve? both the wires are exactly the same. Guess i could try 'reversing the polarity' as that seems to work for the Doctor.


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## wildburkey (21/9/16)

The sensor probe I bought had 3 wires: 2 negative and 1 positive I believe. I remember reading somewhere of someone having an issue with the sestos; they had a 2 wire probe and had to jump a wire from the third connection. I can't be sure yours is the same so I don't want to give pole numbers but it could be worth googling. GL


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## n87 (21/9/16)

Thanks for the assistance.

Is yours a PT100?


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## n87 (21/9/16)

I just got a reply:

"Please notice #3 and #4 terminals are the input ports for dual lines PT100 sensor, at the same time #4 and #5 terminals should be connected together. Please check the attached photo.


When setting the Sn, please notice the code is 20."

So i will ned to jumper one of the connections, and the instructions are wrong... or not complete to boot.

Will try in the morning and i think i have just hit that 'no going back' tiredness point where everything goes wrong.


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## wildburkey (21/9/16)

No prob, yeah an el cheapo from china - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RTD-Pt100-ohm-Probe-Sensor-L-50mm-PT-NPT-1-2-Thread-with-Lead-Wire-EW-/262444212565?hash=item3d1ae4e155:g:aSwAAOSwPhdVOzwR


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## wildburkey (21/9/16)

Chinglish documentation, quite scary really that they cant get the schematics right. (Incomplete)


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (21/9/16)

wildburkey said:


> The sensor probe I bought had 3 wires: 2 negative and 1 positive I believe. I remember reading somewhere of someone having an issue with the sestos; they had a 2 wire probe and had to jump a wire from the third connection. I can't be sure yours is the same so I don't want to give pole numbers but it could be worth googling. GL


Measure the resistance between the wires, one pair should have around 100 ohms resistance, the resistance between either of these and the third wire should be lower.

If your device takes a two wire sensor, the two wires that are about 100 ohms are the two to use since it's the variation of this resistance with temperature that is being measured. A PT100 is a type of PTC where the reference resistance is 100 ohms at 0oC, since it's a resistive measurement there shold be no polarity.

The third wire is there to allow for lead resistance compensation, a three wire device measures the resistance difference between the wires connected to the PT resistance and the wires that are simply joined at the end so changes in wire resistance are (mostly) cancelled.


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## n87 (21/9/16)

Lyrebird_Cycles said:


> Measure the resistance between the wires, one pair should have around 100 ohms resistance, the resistance between either of these and the third wire should be lower.
> 
> If your device takes a two wire sensor, the two wires that are about 100 ohms are the two to use since it's the variation of this resistance with temperature that is being measured. A PT100 is a type of PTC where the reference resistance is 100 ohms at 0oC, since it's a resistive measurement there shold be no polarity.
> 
> The third wire is there to allow for lead resistance compensation, a three wire device measures the resistance difference between the wires connected to the PT resistance and the wires that are simply joined at the end so changes in wire resistance are (mostly) cancelled.


Thanks for the theory behind the probe, makes sense.


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## Lyrebird_Cycles (21/9/16)

You're welcome. 

BTW the "PT" part of the probe name is because they were originally made of platinum wire, the "100" is the resistance.


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## n87 (21/9/16)

I figured the PT part (i saw somewhere that the PT100 was a platinum something-or-other)
The 100 part is obvious.... once it is pointed out


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## n87 (22/9/16)

Ok, So the probe works with 2 of the connectors jumpered, tested at 20, 30, 40 and all seems good (after adjusting for 5.5C out). testing at 50 now, then i may just throw a saison at it.
However, if I follow the instructions from the seller, it errors out, so i left it set to 21, instead of the suggested 20.

Now i am trying to start the auto learn function, following the instructions (hold the > key for more than 2 secs) and dont get the required changes.
If anyone has any tips or tricks for this, it would be most appreciated.


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## n87 (22/9/16)

Ok, looks like it automatically disables the auto learn function after the first time it has been plugged in.
Just needed to read the next paragraph and set 'CtrL' to 2, then it went straight into the learning mode.


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## wildburkey (22/9/16)

Glad you got it sorted, good luck brewing the Saison.


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## n87 (26/9/16)

Saison went well, Took much longer to heat up to strike than my burner, but i just set it and let it do its thing without worrying about it burning the house down or overshooting.
Will have to wait till i put it in the fermenter to find out the efficiency, but its looking promising.


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## DigitalGiraffe (12/10/16)

I couldn't seem to find a dedicated thread to the Inkbird ITC-100VH so apologies for dropping this in here.

Do I only require the one PID to control my mash temp and the output for my boil (BIAB 1V)

Can I set different mash temps for step mashing and have it cycle through each temp? Or is it only capable of one programmed temp and you change it as you need to while mashing (not a big drama if thats the case).

I've found truck loads of wiring info for these units but little on the process people go through on brew days.


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## n87 (12/10/16)

I have been using it 'manually', ie, I set the temp when required.
I don't think it is possible to program a full step mash, but it wouldn't surprise me.

You should only need one for a 1v biab, I have a 1v recirc setup with a single pid.


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## DigitalGiraffe (12/10/16)

n87 said:


> I have been using it 'manually', ie, I set the temp when required.
> I don't think it is possible to program a full step mash, but it wouldn't surprise me.
> 
> You should only need one for a 1v biab, I have a 1v recirc setup with a single pid.


Cheers! I'm trying to put together a setup in different stages and adding recirc would be the next step so attempting to future proof it all.

Are you able to ignore the temp and set the power output of the element for the boil? The plan is to use a 3600w element which is too much power to keep at 100% so I'd like to dial it back.


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## n87 (12/10/16)

That would require something else.
The pic will turn the element on and off in quick succession to get the desired result. If you need to limit the current draw, you've I'll need to do a little more research.
A simple pot setup will limit the element, but you will have much the same current draw.

What are you trying to achieve by dialing back the element?


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## Camo6 (13/10/16)

n87 said:


> What are you trying to achieve by dialing back the element?


Trying to avoid boilovers I'd guess.

Not sure about the inkbird pids but a basic Auber pid has an auto/manual mode. Auto mode will maintain a set temp using pid logic whereas manual mode will allow you to control the output to the element as a percentage allowing you to dial it back.


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## DigitalGiraffe (13/10/16)

I want to be able to dial it back so it's not so vigorous all the time. So I could potentially put a pot in between the PID and the element?


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## n87 (13/10/16)

If that's all you want, then as camo says, you can put it in manual mode and put it on 40% or the like. Or leave it on auto and it will go full ball until it gets close to temp, then dial back
The pid will turn the element on and off to regulate the temp.

The main reason I was asking is to check that you weren't trying to run a 3600w element on a 10 amp circuit.


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## DigitalGiraffe (13/10/16)

Cheers mate. Definitely not attempting to do that. Having some rewiring done and going to sneak in a 15amp circuit. So much documentation on wiring these things up yet so little on how to use them, or I'm looking in the wrong places.


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