# Fridgemate Instructions For Dummies.



## skippy (12/9/07)

Usefull link - with photos - for those who are a little scared that they have not wired the little bugger up correctly, and dont want to fork out hard earned cash for a sparky to do it!

LINK: http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29

Dont know if this has been posted here before, so sorry if you have allready seen it.

:beer:


----------



## ham2k (12/9/07)

i think that is actually done by the AHB member "rwh". The link corresponds to the site in his details. Maybe we could have a wiki on the site using that information or at least a link to it.



skippy said:


> Usefull link - with photos - for those who are a little scared that they have not wired the little bugger up correctly, and dont want to fork out hard earned cash for a sparky to do it!
> 
> LINK: http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29
> 
> ...


----------



## turto77 (12/9/07)

skippy said:


> Usefull link - with photos - for those who are a little scared that they have not wired the little bugger up correctly, and dont want to fork out hard earned cash for a sparky to do it!
> 
> LINK: http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29
> 
> ...



I used this site to put my fridgemate together last month, it made the whole job so much easier. :chug:


----------



## citizensnips (12/9/07)

thanks skippy but already set mine up a few weeks ago,


----------



## Cummins (18/9/07)

I'm having problems even with these instructions...

With regards to using the wire terminals, I can't seem to get them to work or grip the wire. Each screw only turns about 1/8th of a turn each and then seems to stop, if I try and go further either way it seems like its forcing it beyond a reasonable limit. Am I doing it wrong? Looking into where the wire goes while screwing and nothing seems to moving up or down?

I tried to turn it on with them just loosely in the terminals (dodgy, I know) and got nothing. Does the probe have to be connected to get action on the display or is my wiring stuffed somewhere else. 

Not having much luck so far! Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## turto77 (18/9/07)

Cummins said:


> I'm having problems even with these instructions...
> 
> With regards to using the wire terminals, I can't seem to get them to work or grip the wire. Each screw only turns about 1/8th of a turn each and then seems to stop, if I try and go further either way it seems like its forcing it beyond a reasonable limit. Am I doing it wrong? Looking into where the wire goes while screwing and nothing seems to moving up or down?
> 
> ...



Hey Cummins,
I originally had trouble opening the terminals so I actually pulled the unit out of the case so i could get a bigger screwdriver to the screw and see what i was doing. they were pretty tight but moved freely once they cracked.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Sammus (18/9/07)

Cummins said:


> I'm having problems even with these instructions...
> 
> With regards to using the wire terminals, I can't seem to get them to work or grip the wire. Each screw only turns about 1/8th of a turn each and then seems to stop, if I try and go further either way it seems like its forcing it beyond a reasonable limit. Am I doing it wrong? Looking into where the wire goes while screwing and nothing seems to moving up or down?
> 
> ...



I also had this problem and realised that the terminals come closed not open. make sure you loosen them first (they are fairly tight, not overly so though)


----------



## Cummins (18/9/07)

Well... I just broke the only screw driver I had small enough trying to loosen them...

So how did you take the cover off?
Might just get the drill onto it and make those vent holes bigger!


----------



## skippy (18/9/07)

Cummins i'm actually wiring up one tonight...now, the srews are F****n done up tight!!

I pushed (through the slots), the largest of my "cheap 14 piece combination micro-screwdriver set" flathead and made sure it was in the slot and turned it anticlockwise with a pair of needle nose pliers, gripping the shaft of the screwdriver.

...easy peasy

:super:

P.S. The hardest thing was making the cuts in the box to fit the face, ...I used a small angle grinder for that - gives a nice straight parallel cut, right were you marked it out..if you do it properly, then used a large drill bit for the sides and pulled out a fine file to touch it up, looks pucker!


----------



## ironxmortlock (18/9/07)

skippy said:


> Usefull link - with photos - for those who are a little scared that they have not wired the little bugger up correctly, and dont want to fork out hard earned cash for a sparky to do it!
> 
> LINK: http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29
> 
> ...



Beauty! :beer: 

I'm just about to get a _fridgemate_ and I was a little daunted at the prospect of assembling it myself. After an hour of searching through the 20 pages of "*the* fridgemate thread", these are exactly the kind of instructions I was looking for.

Thank you very much! :super: 

M


----------



## Cummins (18/9/07)

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll have to get another screwdriver and give it another go with more force!

I tried the angle grinder on the case, nice straight cut but made a messy buildup of molten plastic at one end.


----------



## skippy (18/9/07)

Cumins, if it is really bothering you, dont pull the thing out from thr box like someone mentioned, just get a stanely knive and remove a few of the little vent thingy's....no harm done.


----------



## turto77 (18/9/07)

Cummins said:


> Well... I just broke the only screw driver I had small enough trying to loosen them...
> 
> So how did you take the cover off?
> Might just get the drill onto it and make those vent holes bigger!



From memory there are a couple of notches on the front, just loosen them and them push it out from the back. otherwise just cut the slot out like skippy mentioned.


----------



## skippy (18/9/07)

WAY BOYSSS...she's all go in the food fridge!!!!!

To easy, I might tin the wires however just to get a better more stable connection

:beerbang:


----------



## skippy (19/9/07)

First problem solvered, Put thing together.

Second Problem solvered, The instructions tell you all the recommended functions for fridge. Done,

Third Problem, Wheres the manual that advises the settings for fermenting different beers or keeping the fridge at a particular temp, or using it for contolling temp of a heating device????


Little help here please, anyone with a FridgeMate??.. I want to use it to contol the ferment of my lager, so I want the fridge to stay at around 11 - 12 degrees C. 


What do I do???


----------



## Doogiechap (19/9/07)

skippy said:


> First problem solvered, Put thing together.
> 
> Second Problem solvered, The instructions tell you all the recommended functions for fridge. Done,
> 
> ...


Click on this link from the Mashmaster Website to download the operating instructions  
Cheers
Doug


----------



## skippy (19/9/07)

So... want to ferment Lager at 11 or 12 C........


Set F2 to 10 degrees C, and F3 to 12 degrees C , F4 to mode 1 (fridge), F1 to 9 min (will that use to much power??????), F0 to 1 degrees C?


Is this Kosher??


----------



## BrissyBrew (19/9/07)

skippy said:


> So... want to ferment Lager at 11 or 12 C........
> Set F2 to 10 degrees C, and F3 to 12 degrees C , F4 to mode 1 (fridge), F1 to 9 min (will that use to much power??????), F0 to 1 degrees C?
> Is this Kosher??


Hi Skippy

The F2 function is best left at default, you change the fermentation tempterature by adjusting the SET temperature. 

F0 = 1 for tighter control 
F1= 9 minutes this will protect the compressor on your fridge
F2 dont play with this setting
F3 dont play with this setting
F4 for refrigeration you dont need to play with this setting
F4 dont play with this setting

Then out of the functions menu you need only change the SET point by pressing and holding the SET key for 5 seconds, then press up and down arrows to change the set temp, wait and your done.


----------



## skippy (19/9/07)

BrissyBrew said:


> Hi Skippy
> 
> The F2 function is best left at default, you change the fermentation tempterature by adjusting the SET temperature.
> 
> ...


Thanks Brissy brew, that was what I needed to know - very clear and concise.....


One thing though, I read somewhere on this site that these devices can wear out as they continually turn fridge on and off and that requires a lot of effort.... can you get some sort of device or switch that can prolong the FridgeMates life???


----------



## Cortez The Killer (19/9/07)

I've set my fridgemate (controlling a keg fridge) to 5*C and it has a 2 degree tolerance - so it'll drop down to 2*C before switching off and won't come on again till it hits 8*C

Now that does sound like a large swing - but the fridge doesn't seem to be running as much as it was with a 1*C tolerance 

Also the fridge is turned up to maximum and the probe is shoved into a block of polystyrene 

Cheers


----------



## skippy (19/9/07)

Why is the swing 3 degrees C, if the tolerance is set to 2 degrees C like you mentioned. If you set FridgeMate to 5 degrees C for the keg fridge - why does keg dridge drop down to 2 C and rise as far as 8 C, shouldnt fridge start at 7 C (or turn off at 3 C), if tolerance is 2 ??

Cortez The Killer, why is fridge (thermostat im assuming), turned up to max??


----------



## Cummins (19/9/07)

My understanding is that you want your fridge thermostat on max (coldest) so it doesnt interfere with the fridgemate. For example as above, if your fridge was set to 5*C then it would cut out there and never reach the 2*C tolerance of the fridgemate.


----------



## KGB (19/9/07)

Cummins: I think you are correct about the thermostat setting. In regards to your earlier post, I believe the Fridgemate will light up without the probe connected and it should make the "alarm" noise and show an error code which corresponds to......... "probe not connected"! 

Skippy: I read somewhere about people wiring in external relays with their FM to switch on the fridge but haven't looked into it any further. I assume this is to prolong the life of the FM.


----------



## Cortez The Killer (19/9/07)

If the tolerance is set to 2*C and the FM is set to 5*C, it means that any temperature in the range of 3-7*C is within the acceptable range

However the FM will only kick when it senses 8*C as 7*C is still acceptable - same deal at the other end of the scale 

Does that make sense?

Also as Cummins mentioned - so as to not interfere with the FM

Cheers


----------



## skippy (19/9/07)

understand Cortez...so if i use to brew at 11 C, and tolerance is 1 C, acceptable range is between 10 and 12 C, but if temp in fridge gets to either 9 or 13 me Old Mate starts/stops the fridge again.


Is it worth getting an external relay and what sort do you get if it is worth it????


Anyone?


----------



## Cummins (19/9/07)

Cheers guys. Drilled out the vent holes slightly to get a bigger screwdriver in and got them undone. I get E1, manual says 'open circuit' I assume this is no probe?

Edit: Ok, I wired up the probe, and still get E1? Everything looks fine. Is there any more specific answers to this error code?


----------



## skippy (19/9/07)

Post a photo of the wiring etc. someone might be able to help you out mate.


----------



## InCider (29/9/07)

skippy said:


> Usefull link - with photos - for those who are a little scared that they have not wired the little bugger up correctly, and dont want to fork out hard earned cash for a sparky to do it!
> 
> LINK: http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29
> 
> ...



Great instructions, wired mine up a treat. Worked first go, no more 'cider beers' due to high ferment temps! And so cheap!

Thanks for everyone who has contributed on this thread - AHB the fountain of knowledge!

As you can tell I'm bloody stoked!

Great product Mashmaster & Ross!

Seann


----------



## cloudy (29/9/07)

Cummins said:


> Cheers guys. Drilled out the vent holes slightly to get a bigger screwdriver in and got them undone. I get E1, manual says 'open circuit' I assume this is no probe?
> 
> Edit: Ok, I wired up the probe, and still get E1? Everything looks fine. Is there any more specific answers to this error code?


Hey Cummins,

is it possible you have damaged the card in the FM whilst trying to undo the screws? they seem to be fairly flimsy inside.

you didn't have a gut full when you done this did you? :blink:


----------



## Andyd (30/9/07)

I recently had the same problem. Is it consistently coming up E1? Can you get it to stop by squeezing the unit?

Andy


----------



## Cummins (16/10/07)

Thanks for the advice guys. I just had another look at this after giving up for a few weeks. 

It works now, the error was in the RCA connector I had wired up to the probe so I could disconnect it easily. The soldering looked good but it must have got crushed when screwing the shell thing over it.

...and next time i'll use a bigger box because the wiring is crossing everywhere


----------



## ohlssons (18/10/07)

I am using two FM's since shortly after I started brewing a few months ago. One for fermentation, either heating with 40 watt light or cooling via fridge compressor, the other for kegs.

Couple of corrections on some of the earlier posts.

In cooling mode, the delay time, eg 9min is the delay time before switching on after it has gone above the set temp + tolerance i.e. if set temp is 5 deg and tolerance 2 deg, then it has to be at 8 deg for 9min before it switches on. If its cooling it has to drop only below set temp, i.e. 4 deg before instantly switching off.

I have mine with a tolerance of only 1 deg and it works fine. It will still swing more than (in my case 14-11deg = 3 deg) set swing because of delay in cooling liquid- it often drops to 10deg when set at 12 deg.

I actually put the probe in a cup of water, rather than have it on outside of fermenter. That way it mimics the actual brew temp and also doesn't react when opening fridge door, and fluctuates a lot less.

cheers


----------



## wambesi (18/10/07)

ohlssons said:


> I actually put the probe in a cup of water, rather than have it on outside of fermenter. That way it mimics the actual brew temp and also doesn't react when opening fridge door, and fluctuates a lot less.



But wouldn't a cup of water cool/warm quicker as it is a smaller volume as well as different density?
My preferred method is on the side of the fermenter with some wet suit material (well from one of those wet suit pencil cases actually) over the probe then taped on. Seems to work quite well.

I have two going myself now, one on the fridge and one on 2 belts for the winter ales.


----------



## Screwtop (18/10/07)

ohlssons said:


> II actually put the probe in a cup of water, rather than have it on outside of fermenter. That way it mimics the actual brew temp and also doesn't react when opening fridge door, and fluctuates a lot less.
> 
> cheers



The temperature of the water isn't changing due to kinetic energy (from fermentation) like the beer is. Tape it to the side of the fermenter mid depth of the beer inside with a little piece of bubble wrap covering the outside to insulate it from the fridge cabinet air temp. 

Screwy


----------



## ohlssons (18/10/07)

Agree with both above.

Yes the cup cools/warms quicker- but once temp is achieved, it keeps it more stable especially when you have to open door. I also have a teperature strip on the fermenter, and there will be a slight lag , yes, but after a bit of trial/error I find the correct temp setting on the actual FM- may be different.

I will also try the tape and insulate method and see how that corresponds, but sticking the probe in a cup of water is too easy.


----------



## bonj (18/10/07)

keep in mind that the probe isn't waterproof and will corrode without protection.


----------



## skippy (18/10/07)

Buy NTC SS probe and put into fermentor.

I tested probe (NTC SS) against new Tandy Digital Therm. by putting 2 x 25L fermentors on bottom shelf and 2 x 25L fermentors on top shelf of fermenting fridge. Measured temps of wort 4-5 times daily for week using FM to set fridge to 12C with 9 min delay and variance + or - 1C, with no correction.

Basically FM (using NTC SS probe) is 1C out, as FM does not measure increments of 1/2 C's,

But apart from that, I recommend NTC SS probe with FM, as it measures/controls actual wort temp whilst fermenting, not ambient temp inside fridge, which is different (I use spare therm. resting inside empty longneck bottle in fridge to monitor ambient, which happens to differ by up to 2-3C compared to wort temp.)


----------



## Screwtop (18/10/07)

Do a search and check out other sources and boards, this stuff has been done to death. Temp at the centre of a fermenter full of fermenting beer is higher than at the sides etc. etc

The concensus is that the best method is to position the probe on the outside of the fermenter be it glass or plastic, mid depth of beer, insulated from the cabinet temp by some method, bubble wrap, polystyrene foam block or foam rubber. But like everything home brew, do whatever toots your whistle.

Screwy


----------



## InCider (18/10/07)

Screwtop said:


> But like everything home brew, do whatever toots your whistle.
> 
> Screwy




I had McGuyver tape handy, so that's what I use. Maybe if i had the right coloured plasticine, Calypso Red, rolled on a left handed virgin's thigh while she sang the National Anthem to the tune of Jimmy Barnes' 'Working Class Man' I could attain the desired temp....hmmm...like I'll care after the second glass...

To be honest, this is the easy part. I'm just glad I wasn't flippin' electrocuted! :lol: 

InCider.


----------



## Screwtop (18/10/07)

InCider said:


> I had McGuyver tape handy, so that's what I use. Maybe if i had the right coloured plasticine, Calypso Red, rolled on a left handed virgin's thigh while she sang the National Anthem to the tune of Jimmy Barnes' 'Working Class Man' I could attain the desired temp....hmmm...like I'll care after the second glass...
> 
> To be honest, this is the easy part. I'm just glad I wasn't flippin' electrocuted! :lol:
> 
> InCider.




Yesterday I couldn't spell e l e c t r i c i a n today I are one :icon_cheers:


----------



## schooey (18/10/07)

You know, when i first got my fermenting fridge, it was the middle of winter and I wanted to brew a batch at 20C. I thought ok, if I stick it in a fridge, it will be great for keeping it at 20C all day, but what happens at night when my garage gets to 8C? So I thought about two fridgemates, one for cooling with the fridge plugged into it, and one for heating with some sort of heat source in the fridge.

I then read the internet for about 14 days and found copious amounts of electronics sites that had circuits for turning fridges into wine cellars etc.. After about too long of studying this, I decided I'd build a unit that controlled heating and cooling all in one go.

Then it happened.

I embarked on this task that nearly got me divorced, nearly made me pull out my already slowly receeding hairline and ended up costing me a ittle bit more than what two fridgemates would have anyway. And here it is...





I then set about making the sensors waterproof to put them in the brew etc etc etc.. Then went to insulating them and putting them inside the case. I tried putting massive great big heat sinks on them.

You know what worked best?

A great big glob of bluetack stuck against the side of the glass carboy insulating it from the fridge air.

You know how they always say hindsight is 20/20? Well yeah..


----------



## beerguide (30/10/07)

I recently purchased a Fridgemate and have just finished wiring it up, it is one of the newer models with the open/closed relay or the 7 point model.

I've been told to wire it up to points 2,3 instead of 1,2 for the 'live' lead and 'live' jumper. Or simply incrementing points 1 & 2 as per this picture to 2 & 3 (http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/files/fm_wiring.png)

When I used 2 & 3 it powers up and works alright, except when the probe is reading 14 degrees it doesn't turn the fridge off. I have my set point at 16 degrees and modified the instructions as per the fridge settings in the included instructions.

I then read on the blog above here: http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29 to use points 1 & 2 and ignore 3. When i use 1 and 2 I do not get any power to the unit at all.

For reference when the fridgemate is reading 14 degrees the work light is no longer lit, which to me indicates the unit knows to turn the fridge off, but it doesn't do so.

Has anyone had a similar problem or have any ideas?


----------



## reveler (30/10/07)

zoddy said:


> I recently purchased a Fridgemate and have just finished wiring it up, it is one of the newer models with the open/closed relay or the 7 point model.
> 
> I've been told to wire it up to points 2,3 instead of 1,2 for the 'live' lead and 'live' jumper. Or simply incrementing points 1 & 2 as per this picture to 2 & 3 (http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/files/fm_wiring.png)
> 
> ...



I had the exact same problem.

post a pic of your wiring and make sure it matches the instructions.

Use post 1&2 as per diagram.

and then use 4,5,6,7 inplace of the 3,4,5,6 on instructions.

I wired mine up using post 2&3 first off, it worked except the unit didn't switch off when it was within range. I changed to point 1&2 and it work perfect (Keeping the fermenting fridge at 10 deg is great!).


----------



## beerguide (30/10/07)

Image below:



I apologise about the quality, my camera is on the blink and this was with my phone.

In this photo I rewired 2&3 to 1&2 and same result as prior, I get no power to the fridgemate or fridge.


----------



## haysie (30/10/07)

zoddy said:


> Image below:
> View attachment 15701
> 
> 
> ...




zoddy, wiring looks ok.but have you got the female male leads aroung the right way? that could be the cuuse of no power.


----------



## beerguide (30/10/07)

The female plug is the lead on the left hand side of the terminal block, whilst the male lead is the one leading out the bottom of the terminal block at the bottom of the picture.


----------



## beerguide (31/10/07)

I decided this morning to re-wire the whole thing using a different extension lead and it is now working. So I rejoined the extension cable, and guess what it doesn't work properly.

Gotta love brand new things that don't work - shame I sliced it in half and can't take it back now. But it looks like its just the female plug that is stuffed, so I'll just replace that.

Thanks for all your help last night it is appreciated!


----------

