# NEIPA Dry Yeast options



## Skillz

Looking at putting down a Neipa next week and my only options for yeast will be dry packets, im thinking Us-04 but if anyone has tried it or any others that have worked well for you please share your recipes and experiences.
On a side note do you really need 200g to 300g of hops to get a good Neipa?


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## Skillz

Edited for mistakes


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## JDW81

I prefer US05 myself, but US04 will be fine.

The hop amount depends on when you use them, and if you chill/no chill your brews.

When I make a highly hopped beer, I put most of the hops in the cube (bittering and flavour) and get a great result, however you need a big dose of hops if you want a lot of hop flavour (especially if you're making a 6%+ beer).

Just make sure you balance the hops with some malt backbone, there's nothing worse than an over hopped, thin IPA.

JD


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## Skillz

For more info i do BIAB and no chill. I mainly use Us-05 for most things so no problem with that.


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## Skillz

4.1 kg US 2-row malt
910 g UK Golden Promise malt
450 g flaked wheat
340 g flaked oats

70g Galaxy
70g Citra
70g Mosaic

Put one in as a FWH for a little of the IBU and then cube and the usual dry hop

Thats my basic guess as a beginer


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## Danscraftbeer

The only dry yeast I've used for NEIPA was S-04. It worked nicely. Mash highish to reduce the attenuation. Go big with dry hops.
The best NEIPA I've got was chilled brew. Tiny addition for bittering around 10 IBU. Big flameout addition. Bigger Hop Stand addition and big dry hopping. Total hop bills between 14 to 18g per liter keeping the IBU's low around 40 or 50. 6.5 to 7.5% ABV.


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## enikoy

I had my best Neipa result with safale K97. Supposedly German ale yeast but its low floculation and flavor made a great version of Beerco's Hazy Trucker.


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## huez

lallemand do a dried new england yeast. Not sure if it's available in homebrew size yet though, can only seem to find it in 500g packs


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## goatchop41

Skillz said:


> On a side note do you really need 200g to 300g of hops to get a good Neipa?



10g/L would be an absolute bare minimum, with pretty much all of that needing to be at flameout/whirlpool and dry hop. I'd be aiming more for 15g/L


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## Skillz

Sounding like 10g to 15g a liter is the way to go


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## Skillz

Going to get my ingredients tomorrow, if you could help me out by having a quick look over my recipe and letting me know of any changes i should make it would be much appreciated.
Ps. im a noob so as long as its close and will taste good


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## Dan Pratt

huez said:


> lallemand do a dried new england yeast. Not sure if it's available in homebrew size yet though, can only seem to find it in 500g packs



I had emails with Lallemand and they dont have any retail stores carrying the dry yeast for NEIPA as the website shows. 

To be honest, ive tried the london ale 1318, byr97 and US05 and 04, all with great results and now just use Bry97. 

You can get the desired NE IPA style by following a few things:

Make the water Chloride forward, unlike IPA which are Sulphate driven water profiles. Its doesnt have to be heavy, just 150ppm chloride to 75ppm sulphate whill get that bite it needs. 

Use tropical sexy hops, citra, galaxy, mosaic, simcoe, el dorado ALL late additions - my guide is 6 ounces at whirlpool, then 6 ounces dry hop for 20L batch. 

Dry hop during active fermentation with 3 ounces, when its finished add 3 more.

becuase you are no chilling, you wont get that full juicy affect from the late kettle hops, ive tried it and cube hops just become bittering compounds with little flavour. 

good luck, oh and 20-30% oats, this makes its soft and velvety which matches the chloride and huge hop oils from teh dry hopping


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## Skillz

Thanks for the info[emoji38]


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## goatchop41

Dan Pratt said:


> Dry hop during active fermentation with 3 ounces, when its finished add 3 more.
> 
> becuase you are no chilling, you wont get that full juicy affect from the late kettle hops, ive tried it and cube hops just become bittering compounds with little flavour.



1) You'd be surprised how little difference there is between mucking around with multiple additions and worrying about different fermentation points vs just throwing your first dry hop in when you pitch the yeast, then the second a few days later (or keg hop instead of the second dry hop).

2) We'll have to agree to disagree there, as I've made a few perfectly 'juicy' hoppy beers with purely no-chilling. Just let the temp come down to about 85-90 before racking the wort in to the cube with the cube hops. Works just fine


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## Skillz

I dropped the pale malt down to 4.2kg so i could up the oats to 700g. 
When it comes time im thinking Amarillo as fwh
Finish boil then whirlpool and let sit for half an hour then cube hop what would be the 15min additions into what i would assume to be 80 to 90c.

1 Would you put these in a hop sock and remove after half an hour or so?

2 is it ok to just through all dry hops in o natural and not worry 
Or hop sock and remove after 3 or four days?


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## fdsaasdf

Absolute bollocks about juiciness not being achievable with no-chilling - my no-chill NEIPA took bronze in the last state champs.


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## goatchop41

Skillz said:


> 1 Would you put these in a hop sock and remove after half an hour or so?
> 
> 2 is it ok to just through all dry hops in o natural and not worry
> Or hop sock and remove after 3 or four days?



I just chuck 'em all in 'au naturel'*. There's no point removing them from the cube after cube hopping - the hop oils are already in the wort, so if they're going to isomerise due to the temperature, that will happen regardless of whether the hop matter is still in there or not.*

*Re: the dry hopping, it's up to you and how much beer you're willing to lose/how hard you can crash your beer to drop the hops out of suspension.*
*I personally sit a bit of wood under the front of the fermenter so that it leans back a bit. That way throughout the ferment and then during the cold crash, everything settles away from the tap and then I can get a nice clean rack in to the keg, even if I have a shit ton of dry hops*


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## goatchop41

fdsaasdf said:


> Absolute bollocks about juiciness not being achievable with no-chilling - my no-chill NEIPA took bronze in the last state champs.



That's impressive.
It shows once again that there are plenty of geese out there who simply make misleading statements because they make assumptions about a certain style of brewing (in this case no-chilling), or can't manage to do it properly themselves so just claim that it can't be done


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## Skillz

Thanks for the info.
The main thing im trying to avoid is grassy flavors as ive never used this many hops.
I actually do lean my fermenter for my ipas and just throw them in but im not going very heavy (30 to 60g).

Sounds like im on the path to success then aslong as my grain bill is ok.

No chill is fine, i have done Rockers Red recipe 3 times now and it is always well balanced in malt, hops and bitterness.

My own concoctions are a bit hit and miss (always drinkable) but thats the fun of trying new things and learnig[emoji38]


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## Schikitar

Give M36 some consideration as well (maybe for a future re-brew), I did a hazy XPA with it and the colour/haze was fantastic, it also has some fruity characteristics which lends themselves well to a style like this..


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## RobW

WLP008 East Coast Ale Yeast works well.
Stays nice and hazy - it's a low flocker


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## goatchop41

Skillz said:


> The main thing im trying to avoid is grassy flavors as ive never used this many hops.



Don't worry about that - the idea that it happens from having dry hops in for too long is bullshit. Talk to all of the people who keg hop, leaving the hops in contact with the beer for over a few weeks.
Grassiness is about hop variety, not purely keeping the hops in contact with the beer for a few days longer than usual.


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## goatchop41

RobW said:


> WLP008 East Coast Ale Yeast works well.
> Stays nice and hazy - it's a low flocker



Flocculation isn't what you're looking for here. The haze in NEIPAs should definitely NOT come from yeast being held in suspension. If it is, then that's a poorly made NEIPA.
It's about proteins and polyphenols


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## RobW

goatchop41 said:


> Flocculation isn't what you're looking for here. The haze in NEIPAs should definitely NOT come from yeast being held in suspension. If it is, then that's a poorly made NEIPA.
> It's about proteins and polyphenols



It was a joke Joyce.
However


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## Skillz

Just got my ingredients, they didnt have a few things so ended up with
4.2kg 2 row
1kg golden promise 
700g flaked oats
250g wheat malt
250g carapils

And no galaxy[emoji23] so got 
Summer hops instead, no idea if that will work.

Also no water additions, what could i use instead?
Bunnings for gypsum?
Supermarket for epsom salt?
Really have no idea what im doing with water


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## Skillz

Please help[emoji28]
My recipe is going to end up with a ph of 5.69 and fall short on water requirements.
I think ill be fine not worrying about the water stuff but the ph is a worry.
I cannot get any minerals or lactic acid anywhere in my area, tried all homebrew shops.
Open to suggestions.
Also using us-04 my og will be 1.062 but to get my fg to 1.014 i have to mash at 66c, is this ok and will it still leave enough body finishing at 1.014 but mashing so dry at 66?


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## Dan Pratt

goatchop41 said:


> That's impressive.
> It shows once again that there are plenty of geese out there who simply make misleading statements because they make assumptions about a certain style of brewing (in this case no-chilling), or can't manage to do it properly themselves so just claim that it can't be done



woah, really? Im a goose with misleading comments and making assumptions. hmmmm.... 

When I say tried it, not once, not a couple of times, but over the past decade too many times in too many variations to achieve the desired outcome and it always falls short with hop heavy styles. 

I compare that to chilling very hop forward IPA, Pales and NEIPA styles and that is something I should of stated in my previous post. 

Im a big fan of the no chill for many styles and for the 30+ beers each year ~ 50-60% of those are with that method, just not the hop heavy ones.


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## Dan Pratt

Skillz said:


> Just got my ingredients, they didnt have a few things so ended up with
> 4.2kg 2 row
> 1kg golden promise
> 700g flaked oats
> 250g wheat malt
> 250g carapils
> 
> And no galaxy[emoji23] so got
> Summer hops instead, no idea if that will work.
> 
> Also no water additions, what could i use instead?
> Bunnings for gypsum?
> Supermarket for epsom salt?
> Really have no idea what im doing with water



If you dont have the salts and minerals to adjust it for todays batch just keep it in mind for the next one.

Not sure of your location but I think most tap water is quite balanced with Sulphate and Chloride ppm so brew on.


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## Schikitar

Skillz said:


> Also using us-04 my og will be 1.062 but to get my fg to 1.014 i have to mash at 66c, is this ok and will it still leave enough body finishing at 1.014 but mashing so dry at 66?


I wouldn't call 66 'dry' - infact that's the number I typically aim for, well technically 66.6 for some extra hornage in my brews, but yeah, don't stress it man, if you magically hit all your numbers bang on I'd be very surprised, you might but don't sweat it too much.. also, don't worry about your water profile too much this time round, just make notes for next time..


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