# 2 Tier Brewstand With March Pump.



## yardy (29/5/09)

morning all,

anyone running a 2 tier with a pump ? (have searched _march, pump, 2 tier, brewstand etc etc...._)

i'm starting the brewery upgrade soon and i've got a few qs, 


any problems with underletting from a gravity fed keg HLT to keg MLT ?

_(MLT will have a FB made from the cut-out top of the keg)
_
any problems when pumping from MLT to the Kettle as far as crud build-up in the pump etc ?

_(i've rolled up a ss ring from 10mm tube and i'm thinking of recirculating the wort through this before transfer to the kettle, sort of like a fly-sparge setup but not, if you know what i mean..)_

pretty basic questions i know....

also, anyone experienced with Swagelok fittings can chuck their 2 bobs in you feel like it :icon_cheers: 

cheers
Yard


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## Trent (29/5/09)

Gravity fed HLT to MLT will be fine, thats what I do.
Pumping from MLT to kettle will also be fine (again, its what I do) and you wont have to worry about crap building up inb the pump.
Thats a pretty common system, and you should find no problems doing it that way.
All the best
Trent


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## FNQ Bunyip (29/5/09)

yardy said:


> morning all,
> 
> anyone running a 2 tier with a pump ? (have searched _march, pump, 2 tier, brewstand etc etc...._)
> 
> ...


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## Mitchell (29/5/09)

A1. Yes. And I am very happy with it.
A2. Nope. Not in the slightest.
A3. Nope. Never had an issue.

Interesting fittings. I'd also be interested to hear if anyone has used these and how they perform. 

I started with the plastic cpc fittings and found the seals needed replaced too often (began to loosen a bit, would pinch during operation then die). Just switched to SS Camlock fittings as they appear to be more robust. About to do first brew with these this weekend. They were fairly tight when I brought them... a soak overnight in PBW and they are now ridiculously tight. I'm hoping some regular use will sort that.... but so far they are not off to a great start.


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## raven19 (29/5/09)

Yard,
I think the only issue I can forsee will be the 'possible' blockage in the pump from the first runnings. If you have that sorted, then it sounds great.
We use a 2 tier, but hand buck from MT to Kettle.
Beers!


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## Cortez The Killer (29/5/09)

Not sure if you stumbled across this thread http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...c=27934&hl=

I had similar concerns when designing my stand

Cheers


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## Leigh (29/5/09)

Many moons ago every fitting in our lab was swagelok...we used it on gas lines, high pressure rigs (15-20 atmospheres) and also on high pressure rigs (350-400 degrees). Never had a swagelok fitting fail, even when they weren't fitted in the best way. Had plenty of NPT and other fittings fail 

When I build my rig, I hope to use Swagelock throughout. Very easy to fit and even easier to use. No need for teflon tape ever again with swagelok


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## yardy (29/5/09)

thanks for the replies guys, pictured is the ring that i knocked up for the recirc, haven't drilled or cut the slots yet, will i have any HSA issues with recircing through this ?







cheers
Yard


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## FNQ Bunyip (29/5/09)

might want too concider a way to move the ring up or down depennding on grain bed height of the brew... I use a copper ring , much the same but its not fitted too the MLT, It just sits on the grain bed.. use the same ring too fly sparge ...

cheers


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## yardy (29/5/09)

FNQ Bunyip said:


> might want too concider a way to move the ring up or down depennding on grain bed height of the brew... I use a copper ring , much the same but its not fitted too the MLT, It just sits on the grain bed.. use the same ring too fly sparge ...
> 
> cheers



thanks FNQ, do you have any pics ?

cheers


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## FNQ Bunyip (29/5/09)

Pics here in gallary

The way I use the ring is to start the pump and run the first runnings back over the mash straight out of the hose , just too clear whats under the false bottom , them slip hose on the ring and sit it on the grain bed let it recirc for awhile as I get sparge water up the last few degrees ... swap hose to kettle out fit hose from HLT too ring and beging the sparge ... might not be the "best " way but it works for me ...

cheers


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## yardy (30/5/09)

thanks again for the tips FNQ :icon_cheers: 


below is how i plan on setting up the upgrade, i'll mod the bracket to suit the HLT (as it's still setup for the rectangular tun), the HLT will be a little further to the left of where it sits to allow for the bends, pipe etc to underlet into the Tun.

The Kettle will be sitting about 100mm higher to allow for transfer into the cube as it's a pita atm and i'm fitting casters to the stand as well.

Q. any foreseeable problems with where i plan to put the pump ?






cheers

Yard


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## technocat (30/5/09)

yardy said:


> thanks FNQ, do you have any pics ?
> 
> cheers



This is a sparge ring that you can make up yourself or be bought from BB Adelaide if my memory serves me right.
Sits on top of the grain at any height. 


View attachment 27581




Cheers.


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## raven19 (30/5/09)

yardy said:


> Q. any foreseeable problems with where i plan to put the pump ?



I think that location should be ok, as long as it is low enough to be gravity primed. Maybe also have a splash tray just in case HLT leaks onto it - which shouldnt be an issue...


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## Pumpy (30/5/09)

yardy said:


> thanks for the replies guys, pictured is the ring that i knocked up for the recirc, haven't drilled or cut the slots yet, will i have any HSA issues with recircing through this ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Ohh Yardy, SS compression fittings few bobs worth there, I dare say, got a cheap source?

pumpy


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## yardy (30/5/09)

yeah mate, i can buy them through work.


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## browndog (30/5/09)

Yardy, your pump will be fine there mate.

cheers

Browndog


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## domonsura (30/5/09)

Beernut said:


> This is a sparge ring that you can make up yourself or be bought from BB Adelaide if my memory serves me right.
> Sits on top of the grain at any height.
> 
> 
> ...



Nope...not me I don't make anything like that. I reckon that's a G & G version. My solution for this is a return dish (pictured in mashtun). No HSA issues, no problems with blockages as there's nothng to get blocked, no drop at all for the wort from any distance as it sits in the top of the grain bed on an adjustable slide.
You'll have no issues with 2 tier and 1 pump, that's how all of my breweries have been made, and you'll have no issues with the pump even if you do get a bit of grain come through...it'll just chug it all right on through usually. Ball valves would be a more likely issue with grain, so best to use full bore.

Geez...everybody's upgrading....I'm downgrading....sort of...


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## chappo1970 (30/5/09)

domonsura said:


> Nope...not me I don't make anything like that. I reckon that's a G & G version. My solution for this is a return dish (pictured in mashtun). No HSA issues, no problems with blockages as there's nothng to get blocked, no drop at all for the wort from any distance as it sits in the top of the grain bed on an adjustable slide.
> You'll have no issues with 2 tier and 1 pump, that's how all of my breweries have been made, and you'll have no issues with the pump even if you do get a bit of grain come through...it'll just chug it all right on through usually. Ball valves would be a more likely issue with grain, so best to use full bore.
> 
> Geez...everybody's upgrading....I'm downgrading....sort of...



Show off!  

Chappo


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## yardy (31/5/09)

browndog said:


> Yardy, your pump will be fine there mate.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Browndog



Cheers mate, i figure as long as it's clear of the burner for the HLT and below the MLT outlet, I can't go wrong.




domonsura said:


> Nope...not me I don't make anything like that. I reckon that's a G & G version. My solution for this is a return dish (pictured in mashtun). No HSA issues, no problems with blockages as there's nothng to get blocked, no drop at all for the wort from any distance as it sits in the top of the grain bed on an adjustable slide.
> You'll have no issues with 2 tier and 1 pump, that's how all of my breweries have been made, and you'll have no issues with the pump even if you do get a bit of grain come through...it'll just chug it all right on through usually. Ball valves would be a more likely issue with grain, so best to use full bore.
> 
> Geez...everybody's upgrading....I'm downgrading....sort of...



Cheers Dom, bloody nice pics there mate :icon_chickcheers: 

Yard


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## technocat (31/5/09)

To BB, I stand corrected. I pulled that one out of the deep recesses of my brain which has been degraded by many litres of HB but hell I am not complaining it has been fun. However a pic is worth a thousand words regardless of where it came from and I like your gear. 


Cheers :icon_cheers:


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## Yorg (31/5/09)

If simplest is best, I'd avoid those sparge arms with little holes in them - including your ring, sorry.
I use a hose with a copper T on the end, and then an elbow on the end of each T - but not soldered in, just pushed on so that they can be rotated for the outlets to face upwards regardless of height. They are positioned to release wort just under the surface, causing little 'standing' waves - minimal aeration.
The holes approach is just something to block up or remove to upend and clean, as you can't flush grain through as per the setup above, and domonsura's.


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## yardy (1/6/09)

Yorg said:


> If simplest is best, I'd avoid those sparge arms with little holes in them - including your ring, sorry.
> I use a hose with a copper T on the end, and then an elbow on the end of each T - but not soldered in, just pushed on so that they can be rotated for the outlets to face upwards regardless of height. They are positioned to release wort just under the surface, causing little 'standing' waves - minimal aeration.
> The holes approach is just something to block up or remove to upend and clean, as you can't flush grain through as per the setup above, and domonsura's.



gday Yorg,

how about a couple of pics.

Cheers


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## Batz (1/6/09)

yardy said:


> thanks for the replies guys, pictured is the ring that i knocked up for the recirc, haven't drilled or cut the slots yet, will i have any HSA issues with recircing through this ?
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Yardy,
You may find you need to join the ring in a full circle, I found that you get an air lock in there and it only works from the first half or less of the holes.Use one of those stainless 'T's that you bought from the same shop I use.  

Batz


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## yardy (1/6/09)

Batz said:


> Yardy,
> You may find you need to join the ring in a full circle, I found that you get an air lock in there and it only works from the first half or less of the holes.
> Batz




Thanks for the tip mate, never thought of that :icon_cheers: 

Cheers


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## yardy (2/6/09)

just looking for a heads up on what hose to run from the pump for the recirc and to the kettle ?

from the HLT to the MLT i'll use the 1/2" SS pipe with the swageloks.

Cheers

Yard


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## FNQ Bunyip (2/6/09)

silicone hose from our great mate Ross,,,
its $$ but the only stuff too use, Take your time and think it out befor you order ,,, I cut my 3m straight in to 3 bits ,, should of gone 2x1200 and 1x600 ... will change when I get around too moving pump and setting up my chiller better ... 
cheers ,,,,


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## yardy (2/6/09)

no problem with it collapsing ?

have seen a few pics of the re-inforced hosing.

Cheers


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## FNQ Bunyip (3/6/09)

no it won't collapse .. it can even be boiled , and I think I read it could be autoclarved ... I've boiled mine after one had mould grow on the inside ,from forgetting to wash after a transfer. left it in ferment fridge for a couple of days ...

boiled it for 10mins and ran a pull though, though it ,droped back in boiling water and all was good ...

its the stuff...

cheers


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## Screwtop (3/6/09)

Yorg said:


> If simplest is best, I'd avoid those sparge arms with little holes in them - including your ring, sorry.
> I use a hose with a copper T on the end, and then an elbow on the end of each T - but not soldered in, just pushed on so that they can be rotated for the outlets to face upwards regardless of height. They are positioned to release wort just under the surface, causing little 'standing' waves - minimal aeration.
> The holes approach is just something to block up or remove to upend and clean, as you can't flush grain through as per the setup above, and domonsura's.



+1 Have tried a number of designs, this works and is simple, for recirc and fly sparge, double batches it is beneath the mash level and single batches about 40mm above mash level, doesent matter a feck.





Taken 5 min ago, brewday today Double Batch ESB


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## FNQ Bunyip (3/6/09)

looks good screwtop ... have a good day brewing mate..

cheers


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## yardy (3/6/09)

thanks fellas for the replies, just got home to find the new march pump waiting for me (cheers Rossco :icon_cheers: )

need to pick a lot of brains now about the pump... 

cheers


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## yardy (4/6/09)

evening all,

should these fittings be ok for a march pump ? hoping to run copper pipe to the kettle.

cheers


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## Doogiechap (4/6/09)

Hi Yardy,
It may work but the March pump is not the correct mating surface for those fittings. The plastic olive 'should' be gently squeezed into a corresponding tapered socket that the collar screws onto. This will help to then seal it against the copper pipe. You can get these fittings that have a 1/2" BSP female end that will mate direcly onto the pump.
I've attached a piccy which helps to put my garbles into something more understandable.
Cheers
Doug


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## Batz (4/6/09)

yardy said:


> evening all,
> 
> should these fittings be ok for a march pump ? hoping to run copper pipe to the kettle.
> 
> cheers




Hell no mate don't do that !
I can help you out here,pm me your phone number....for another time
You haven't screwed them on have you?


Batz


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## Screwtop (4/6/09)

Batz said:


> Hell no mate don't do that !
> I can help you out here,pm me your phone number....for another time
> You haven't screwed them on have you?
> 
> ...




Would appreciate the same info Batz, been using nylon olives on my pump for a couple of years, didn't know there was another fitting.

friggin fitters :lol:


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## Batz (4/6/09)

Screwtop said:


> Would appreciate the same info Batz, been using nylon olives on my pump for a couple of years, didn't know there was another fitting.
> 
> friggin fitters :lol:



friggin fitters :lol:
If it's working don't let the fitters near it Screwy.


Batz


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## Screwtop (4/6/09)

Batz said:


> friggin fitters :lol:
> If it's working don't let the fitters near it Screwy.
> 
> 
> Batz



Yeah, been working fine, now this has been bought up it'll fecking break, ya know that.

Hey Yard, a tip - depending on how you want to mount the pump, the head can be rotated so the pump body can be mounted with the bush oil holes at the top for lubricating.

Screwy


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## FNQ Bunyip (5/6/09)

Screwtop said:


> Hey Yard, a tip - depending on how you want to mount the pump, the head can be rotated so the pump body can be mounted with the bush oil holes at the top for lubricating.
> 
> Screwy




Good tip Screwy ,, was reading down thinking about my reply , and there it was,, lol...

Yardy ,, I'm sure that your Swagelok shop  will have the fitting you need and can run your SS pipe instead of the copper..

Cheers


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## yardy (5/6/09)

Doogiechap said:


> Hi Yardy,
> It may work but the March pump is not the correct mating surface for those fittings. The plastic olive 'should' be gently squeezed into a corresponding tapered socket that the collar screws onto. This will help to then seal it against the copper pipe. You can get these fittings that have a 1/2" BSP female end that will mate direcly onto the pump.
> I've attached a piccy which helps to put my garbles into something more understandable.
> Cheers
> Doug



Gday Doug,

thanks for the detailed reply mate :icon_cheers: 




Batz said:


> Hell no mate don't do that !
> I can help you out here,pm me your phone number....for another time
> You haven't screwed them on have you?
> 
> ...



Gday mate,

nah i haven't screwed them on, I was just having a few in the shed and playing around with ideas for the upgrade.
I'll get onto that PM ASAP BTW FYI :icon_cheers: 




Screwtop said:


> Yeah, been working fine, now this has been bought up it'll fecking break, ya know that.
> 
> Hey Yard, a tip - depending on how you want to mount the pump, the head can be rotated so the pump body can be mounted with the bush oil holes at the top for lubricating.
> 
> Screwy



Gday Screwy,
thanks for the heads up :icon_cheers: 
you wouldn't believe it, whilst fecking around in the shed yesterday I found that bloody sight glass that you sent me :icon_chickcheers: 

cheers fellas

Yard


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## yardy (5/6/09)

did a bit more to the 18 gal (68 litre) keggle today, cut a circle out of a piece of flat bar and bunged up the hole.

















will fit the tap tomorrow, really like how the bases are moulded on these kegs, very beneficial for wort removal.

cheers
Yard


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## AndrewQLD (5/6/09)

yardy said:


> did a bit more to the 18 gal (68 litre) keggle today, cut a circle out of a piece of flat bar and bunged up the hole.
> 
> will fit the tap tomorrow, really like how the bases are moulded on these kegs, very beneficial for wort removal.
> 
> ...



Nice work Yardy, like the lid too, you gonna polish my keg up like that as well? :lol: 

Sorry just had a Belgian  

As far as your pump goes, I've got ball valves screwed directly to it.

Andrew

Edit: removed pics


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## yardy (5/6/09)

AndrewQLD said:


> Nice work Yardy, like the lid too, you gonna polish my keg up like that as well? :lol:
> 
> Sorry just had a Belgian
> 
> ...




Thanks mate, thought i better try mine before i weld yours up :icon_cheers: , those old kegs have plenty of meat to weld to, can make 'em shiney as well.

Got your Belgian in the fridge, just about to go and try it out :icon_drunk: 

good idea with the valves directly onto the pump, i'll have a quick gander next time

cheers
Yard


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## Offline (5/6/09)

yardy said:


> did a bit more to the 18 gal (68 litre) keggle today, cut a circle out of a piece of flat bar and bunged up the hole.
> ...
> cheers
> Yard



Very nice work there Yard, i think you will find they are 18 UK gal not US gal and therefore closer to 82 litres


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## yardy (6/6/09)

Offline said:


> Very nice work there Yard, i think you will find they are 18 UK gal not US gal and therefore closer to 82 litres




Ah, that's even better then, did a quick conversion on my phone and came up with 68lt.

cheers
Yard


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## yardy (6/6/09)

handles and tap







Yard


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## AndrewQLD (6/6/09)

yardy said:


> handles and tap
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Looks great, serious heavy duty handles that's for sure.


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## yardy (7/6/09)

AndrewQLD said:


> Looks great, serious heavy duty handles that's for sure.




cheers Andrew, it's just a couple of bits 8mm round bar, I was going to put the handles off an old keg on it but i want to keep it clutter free, i've found the normal handles on kegs tend to catch a lot of dust (in my shed anyway) and can be a haven for nasties etc, this way there's nowhere for 'em to hide B) 

cheers
Yard


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## paulwolf350 (8/6/09)

yardy said:


> cheers Andrew, it's just a couple of bits 8mm round bar, I was going to put the handles off an old keg on it but i want to keep it clutter free, i've found the normal handles on kegs tend to catch a lot of dust (in my shed anyway) and can be a haven for nasties etc, this way there's nowhere for 'em to hide B)
> 
> cheers
> Yard



Hey, get any done today mate, lol. Pretty comfy at your bar, BTW. You want me to put a plug on that pump so you can play with it? or are you gonna wait till you wire up the rest of the system

Paul


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## yardy (8/6/09)

paulwolf350 said:


> Hey, get any done today mate, lol. Pretty comfy at your bar, BTW. You want me to put a plug on that pump so you can play with it? or are you gonna wait till you wire up the rest of the system
> 
> Paul



Nah mate, bloody Andrew feeding me Ales all arv just took the edge off my game :icon_cheers: 

glad you enjoyed the few you had, pity you had to go but the brew day is on the horizon :icon_chickcheers: 

cheers


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## paulwolf350 (8/6/09)

yardy said:


> Nah mate, bloody Andrew feeding me Ales all arv just took the edge off my game :icon_cheers:
> 
> glad you enjoyed the few you had, pity you had to go but the brew day is on the horizon :icon_chickcheers:
> 
> cheers


No probs, let us know if you need any electrical help

Paul


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## yardy (8/6/09)

thanks paul, better come down for a weekend and we'll get the boys out and discuss it :chug: :icon_drunk:


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## AndrewQLD (8/6/09)

Yeah, just what you need, a bunch of elecy tards telling the electrician what to do  
if I had known you were an electrician Paul there's no way I would have shown off my fancy ( poorly wired) brew system.
hey, come to think of it you were  pretty diplomatic :lol: 

Andrew


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## 3/4 cut (9/6/09)

Looks like it will be a sweet set up Yardie

:beerbang: :beerbang: :beerbang: 

Cut


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## yardy (9/6/09)

bent up the pickup pipe and fitted it, I'm hoping that after a good whirlpool, all the crud from the boil will sit in the recessed section in the middle and not in the outside where the pickup resides.

cheers


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## 3/4 cut (9/6/09)

Hey Yardie,

How far is the intake of the pickup below the actually out let in the keg? You could have those two at the same elevation because you will be leaving that volume behind anyway. Then if you get lots of light protein break you won't be transfering it. I know when I whirlpool I always end up with the really lite stuff that I can't get to the centre

3/4 cut


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## yardy (9/6/09)

3/4 cut said:


> Hey Yardie,
> 
> How far is the intake of the pickup below the actually out let in the keg?
> 
> 3/4 cut



gday cut,

approx 30 to 40 mm

Yard


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## Darren (9/6/09)

Yardy,

If you are pumping you will drain your kettle dry.

cheers

Darren


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## KHB (9/6/09)

Darren said:


> Yardy,
> 
> If you are pumping you will drain your kettle dry.
> 
> ...



Turn the tap off before it drains completly??

Cheers

Scotsman


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## Screwtop (9/6/09)

Hey Yard, can't really see any diff between your keg bottom and a kettle with a flat bottom as the centre drains to the outside where your pickup sits. After whirlpooling the trub should sit in the centre of the vessel as normal, can't imagine there would be any more drainage effect from the centre than would normally be the case with a flat bottom. Maybe you could cut a flap on the inside edge of your pickup as is found in lots of pickups used in flat bottomed vessels. Basically this is just an extension of one side of the pickup tube facing the centre of the vessel. Go with it, case of suck it and see, reckon it will be fine.


3/4cut, see your new, put your location in to your profile so we can see where you're from.


Screwy


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## elec (9/6/09)

Yardy, is that pickup tube 1/2 or 3/8" ? I'm doing something very similar to yours, and seeing what others are doing is very helpful. Your idea of eliminating the filth trap in the old handles is one definately worth things about, as we have serious dust issues during the latter part of the dry.
Any reason you didn't go the welded fitting over the bulkhead method?

Regards


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## Batz (9/6/09)

yardy said:


> bent up the pickup pipe and fitted it, I'm hoping that after a good whirlpool, all the crud from the boil will sit in the recessed section in the middle and not in the outside where the pickup resides.
> 
> cheers



Yep that'll work well,looks like a bloody boilermaker bent that tubing :lol: 

Batz


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## paulwolf350 (9/6/09)

AndrewQLD said:


> if I had known you were an electrician Paul there's no way I would have shown off my fancy ( poorly wired) brew system.
> hey, come to think of it you were pretty diplomatic :lol:
> 
> Andrew



actually the bit i saw looked ok, but i didnt open up the control box............maybe i need a peek in there to see the really exciting stuff....

Paul


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## yardy (9/6/09)

Screwtop said:


> Hey Yard, can't really see any diff between your keg bottom and a kettle with a flat bottom as the centre drains to the outside where your pickup sits. After whirlpooling the trub should sit in the centre of the vessel as normal, can't imagine there would be any more drainage effect from the centre than would normally be the case with a flat bottom. Maybe you could cut a flap on the inside edge of your pickup as is found in lots of pickups used in flat bottomed vessels. Basically this is just an extension of one side of the pickup tube facing the centre of the vessel. Go with it, case of suck it and see, reckon it will be fine.
> 
> 
> 3/4cut, see your new, put your location in to your profile so we can see where you're from.
> ...



I'ts diificult to see from that angle but it does look like it will hold a lot of the trub in the well in the centre, I'll definitely give the flap idea a crack as well.
(a lot of cracks and flaps in that sentence :huh: )

cheers
Yard


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## yardy (9/6/09)

elec said:


> Yardy, is that pickup tube 1/2 or 3/8" ? I'm doing something very similar to yours, and seeing what others are doing is very helpful. Your idea of eliminating the filth trap in the old handles is one definately worth things about, as we have serious dust issues during the latter part of the dry.
> Any reason you didn't go the welded fitting over the bulkhead method?
> 
> Regards



gday elec,

mate it's 3/8", no particular reason for not going welded, the rest of the brewery is bulkheads so stuck with that i suppose.

cheers
Yard






Batz said:


> Yep that'll work well,looks like a bloody boilermaker bent that tubing :lol:
> 
> Batz



:lol: , and that's with my new $24 pipe bender from the markets

cheers
Yard

you missed a good day here yesterday, give the bloody paw paws a rest and come up for a beer :icon_cheers:


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## Screwtop (9/6/09)

yardy said:


> :lol: , and that's with my new $24 pipe bender from the markets



You were robbed Yard take it back, it's obviously faulty :lol:

Screwy


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## QldKev (10/6/09)

When I saw the pickup tube on the outside of the hump I thought what a cool idea; I went out and got the same keg 

The pipe bending doesn't look as bad as the pic makes it look.

QldKev


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## 3/4 cut (10/6/09)

Screwtop said:


> 3/4cut, see your new, put your location in to your profile so we can see where you're from.
> 
> 
> Screwy



You guys would throw me out of the club if I did that   

Yardie and I go back a couple of miles though

Give us a bit and I will get my data uploaded

Cut


----------



## 3/4 cut (10/6/09)

Updated my data, hope I get to play in your sand box   

Cut


----------



## yardy (10/6/09)

3/4 cut said:


> Updated my data, hope I get to play in your sand box
> 
> Cut




 

good to see you mate :icon_chickcheers:


----------



## 3/4 cut (10/6/09)

Thanks Yardie, nice to be here  :icon_cheers: 

Maybe I should have tried sooner :beerbang: 


Cut


----------



## yardy (13/6/09)

i managed to get the kettle finished, got it soaking in PBW atm












I also did a bit to Andrew's kettle, he said he's going to keep me supplied with his Coopers CDA clone for life  






i have one more of these that i'll be converting to a kettle, pm me if you're interested.

cheers
Yard


----------



## yardy (19/6/09)

yardy said:


>





gday,

just knocking up the pump bracket for the stand and i need to know if the adjustable pump inlet/outlet is ok to run in the vertical position ?

cheers
Yard


----------



## FNQ Bunyip (19/6/09)

I think you will find some prefer this oriatation .. 

Cheers


----------



## beerbrewer76543 (19/6/09)

You know, one area of pump performance is head... Just like women :lol:


----------



## schooey (19/6/09)

G'day Yardy,

Hadn't seen this thread yet, but I thought I'd chuck me 2 bob in like everyone else.




This is the return I use. It works really well in spite of what a lot of people told me when I first made it. I made the slots in it with a 1mm cut off disc, and made them a little wider (probably close to 2mm). If I was doing it again, I'd probably make them a little lower. If you imagine that if you are looking in the end of the tube and the bottome of the tun is at 6 oclock and the top is at 12, my slots are cut from about 7 to 11. The problem is that when the pump changes over from circing through the HERMS coil to bypass, the flow increases and if the lid is off the tun, it's like a fountain all over the place. I would probably cut them from 5 oclock to half nine in hindsight. For single batches, the wort does return in a bit of trickle to the top of the level. I don't see this as an issue becuse any oxygen will be driven off in the boil anyway. I certainly haven't noticed any issues anyway




The other thing I reckon worth thinking about is putting a barrel union either side of your pump if you are fixing it. Just makes it easier for cleaning, checking etc... Best thing I ever added I reckon.

Lastly, I have exactly the same kettle as you. My drain is pretty much in the bottom of the channel like that also. If you are pumping from there, you will need to throttle the pump back significantly when the wort level drops, especially if you are using flowers. I find that the pump moves the wort away from there too quickly and it doesn't run through the trub quick enough to keep the prime in the pump. I gravity empty now, and it still sucks pretty much everything out through a syphon effect if you have a little bit of drop on the outside.


----------



## fraser_john (19/6/09)

Love the plumbing there, can you post a full picture so I can see whats outside the frame of the current picture!


----------



## schooey (19/6/09)




----------



## T.D. (19/6/09)

schooey said:


> View attachment 28193



Hey Schooey, do you have any issues with priming your pump with the inlet and outlet in a horizontal position? I have found that in order to get a good prime the outlet needs to be facing upwards so the liquid fully fills the pump and no air bubbles exist.


----------



## schooey (19/6/09)

When I've cleaned it and drained it, it sometimes will take a minute or two of fiddling to get a prime, but no biggie... Once it's primed, it's always flooded, so never really a problem...

In the above pic, that bottom elbow on the left is now a tee, and there is a drain tap on the bottom. I might take a current pic later if I get time. That drain pretty much lets any air in the system be pulled through to the bottom, even the air trapped in the pump. So all I do is open the valve from the HLT to the pump, then open the drain tap, hit the pump switch, and off we go...


----------



## fraser_john (19/6/09)

Schooey that is real nice and neat!!!! Maybe I'll spend my Crudd money on some stainless tube, bending and flaring tools and a bunch more stainless fittings! If I really got motivated I could have my system as neat as yours!


----------



## yardy (19/6/09)

thanks schooey for the pics and detail, like the return on the MLT, might pinch a lend of that if you don't mind  
cheers to AndrewQld as well :beer: 

Yard


----------



## yardy (19/6/09)

thanks again fellas for the info :icon_cheers: , time to bend up the pipe work now, looking forward to Batz' constructive criticism on my pipe bending skills  















Yard


----------



## schooey (19/6/09)

Sure that's gonna hold it up, yard?

:blink:


----------



## yardy (19/6/09)

schooey said:


> Sure that's gonna hold it up, yard?
> 
> :blink:



:lol: yeah i know, it'll never fall off.

got a ton of it in the shed, nothing lighter at all so may as well use it up


----------



## fraser_john (19/6/09)

Crickey, looks very weak, might have to add some extra brackets!


----------



## AndrewQLD (19/6/09)

yardy said:


> :lol: yeah i know, it'll never fall off.
> 
> got a ton of it in the shed, nothing lighter at all so may as well use it up



You sure your not an Engineer as well Yardy? That's going to be one serious brew stand when its done. Are you going to put wheels on it? And I am being serious.

Andrew


----------



## yardy (19/6/09)

fraser_john said:


> Crickey, looks very weak, might have to add some extra brackets!




yeah yeah, when you get a load stainless given to you it's not polite to ask if they have any 25x25 angle to mount a pump on :icon_cheers: 




AndrewQLD said:


> You sure your not an Engineer as well Yardy? That's going to be one serious brew stand when its done. Are you going to put wheels on it? And I am being serious.
> 
> Andrew



not an engineer mate, i work for a living  
i'll have to put some casters on it, that bloody bracket has made it too heavy to move :icon_cheers: 

cheers
Yard


----------



## schooey (19/6/09)

yardy said:


> not an engineer mate, i work for a living...



<_<


----------



## QldKev (19/6/09)

yardy said:


> i managed to get the kettle finished, got it soaking in PBW atm
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Bit of a bling factor with that polishing - WOW where's my sunnies :beerbang: 

QldKev


----------



## paulwolf350 (19/6/09)

Yardy, are you going to use the esky mash tun with the pump? or going to a keg style mash tun and HERMS?

Paul


----------



## yardy (19/6/09)

yardy said:


>



gday paul,

gravity fed to the MT and pump for recirc the mash and to the Kettle.

got a burner yet ?

Yard


----------



## Screwtop (19/6/09)

3/4 cut said:


> Updated my data, hope I get to play in your sand box
> 
> Cut



Hey Cut, geez we even tolerate Kiwi's here :lol: 

Seriously, welcome mate!

Screwy


----------



## Screwtop (19/6/09)

yardy said:


>




Geeee Zusss Yard, farkin overengineered to say the least, global warming - shite no wonder, how much energy was consumed making that mount. And mate........lights on in the middle of the day. Switch off the lights, fill the glass, sit down in that chair and chill man :lol: 

Still, makes beer ay, so thats oright.

Screwy

Edit: FM I just took a second look...........you've put foam between the clamp and the pump body.................why........You don't want it shaking your brew stand to bits :lol: :lol:


----------



## yardy (19/6/09)

Screwtop said:


> how much energy was consumed making that mount.



a couple of 309 electrodes and a cutting wheel, the rest was free, anymore armchair boilermakers ?


----------



## Leigh (19/6/09)

schooey said:


> When I've cleaned it and drained it, it sometimes will take a minute or two of fiddling to get a prime, but no biggie... Once it's primed, it's always flooded, so never really a problem...
> 
> In the above pic, that bottom elbow on the left is now a tee, and there is a drain tap on the bottom. I might take a current pic later if I get time. That drain pretty much lets any air in the system be pulled through to the bottom, even the air trapped in the pump. So all I do is open the valve from the HLT to the pump, then open the drain tap, hit the pump switch, and off we go...



Schooey, Am I seeing right? Is your mash tun welded down? If so, how do you go about emptying it? Cheers


----------



## schooey (20/6/09)

Nah mate, it sits inside 4 little tags welded to the chassis to locate it. It attaches with 2 barrel unions. Comes of in about 30 seconds


----------



## paulwolf350 (20/6/09)

yardy said:


> gday paul,
> 
> gravity fed to the MT and pump for recirc the mash and to the Kettle.
> 
> ...



mate, Ive had a 3 ring burner all along, just liked the look of your global warming burner that boils water in 1 minute, mine a bit slower than that. 

you not going to herms then at the moment? 

Paul


----------



## AndrewQLD (20/6/09)

yardy said:


> a couple of 309 electrodes and a cutting wheel, the rest was free, anymore armchair boilermakers ?



It truly is a thing of beauty yardy, I can't wait to see it finished and in action, brew day coming up? :icon_cheers:


----------



## paulwolf350 (21/6/09)

yardy said:


> gday paul,
> 
> gravity fed to the MLT and pump for recirc the mash and to the Kettle.



yeah shoulda read the tittle, was mainly asking bout the esky but I got it, keg MLT. Just like mine  

when (if) I build it



> It truly is a thing of beauty yardy, I can't wait to see it finished and in action, brew day coming up? :icon_cheers:



if there is, bloody better invite me (us) only 200 odd kays to yardys, I drive further to go to work :huh: 

Paul


----------



## yardy (17/8/09)

yardy said:


>




got a few days off so I'm having a go at welding some of these compression fittings in to the HLT & Tun.
1 X 90* elbow out of the HLT, 1 X 90* into the Tun for the underletting of the mash and 1 X 90* out for the outlet to the pump, no TIG i'm afraid so it's 309 electrodes all the way, it'll either fix it or feck it  

cheers
Yard


----------



## gregs (17/8/09)

Yardy; I have a mig with 0.9 316 wire if that will help. Cheers


----------



## yardy (17/8/09)

gday greg,

appreciate that mate, I'll see how this goes with the stick, if it's not working out I'll definitely take you up on the offer.
is it 10 or 15 amp plug greg ?

what i'm planning, is drilling a 1/2" hole in some ss flat bar, weld the comp fitting to that and then plug the original hole that was drilled to suit the allthread, should work i think.

cheers
Yard


----------



## porky (17/8/09)

Hey Yard,

You could bring the stuff over here and use my mig if you want....

Cheers,
Bud


----------



## gregs (17/8/09)

Yardy: its a 15 amp job, mate you must be a fair sort of a welder to have a go with sticks. Hate to see you waste fittings like that. I did post you my phone number once, do you still have it. Cheers. gregs


----------



## yardy (17/8/09)

budwiser said:


> Hey Yard,
> 
> You could bring the stuff over here and use my mig if you want....
> 
> ...



appreciate that Mark, we'll see how it goes mate  




gregs said:


> Yardy: its a 15 amp job, mate you must be a fair sort of a welder to have a go with sticks. Hate to see you waste fittings like that. I did post you my phone number once, do you still have it. Cheers. gregs




do a little pressure work here and there mate  

not sure if i've still got it mate, my inbox was chox and i deleted a heap of stuff, i'll pm you with mine if you like.

cheers
Yard


----------



## yardy (25/10/09)

yardy said:


>



gday all, especially keg shaped mash tun owners,

before i fit a MM thermo to my Tun I was wondering what opinions would be on doing away with the clutter of the probe into the Tun and just using a hand held digi thermometer for the mash, i think it was budwiser who suggested this...

cheers
Yard

afterthought..
maybe i could fit the MM thermo to a piece of ss sheet and sit it on top of the mash...


----------



## clean brewer (25/10/09)

yardy said:


> gday all, especially keg shaped mash tun owners,
> 
> before i fit a MM thermo to my Tun I was wondering what opinions would be on doing away with the clutter of the probe into the Tun and just using a hand held digi thermometer for the mash, i think it was budwiser who suggested this...
> 
> ...



You're not going down the Herms route are you Yardy????


----------



## yardy (25/10/09)

not at the moment mate


----------



## browndog (25/10/09)

Yardy, you could route your probe down though the top of your mash tun lid like I did shown here




The probe wire runs though the thin s/s tube and is height adjustable depending on the grist. You can also see a fibreglass/foam float that helps negate the dead space in the tun.

cheers

Browndog


----------



## porky (25/10/09)

Yardy,

I have a 1/2 inch socket cut in half and welded to the mash tun. I drilled a 8 mm or so hole in the centre of it.
I drilled a small hole in a silicone plug which sits in the socket. There is a brass screw plug fitting with a hole in it on that so when tightened it squeezes the silicone if you get the picture. 
I use a temp probe from Ikea that pushes through the silicone. I just put it in a few mm until I am close to temp, then push it in further. End up near centre of the tun. This way you don't hit it while stirring.
Once mash out temp is achieved I just pull the probe out. No need to turn the brass plug as the silicone reseals itself with only a drop or two escaping. 
Then you have a tun with nothing sticking out while you dump it and wash it out.








Welcome to stop by if you want a look.

Cheers,
Mark


----------



## yardy (29/10/09)

browndog said:


> Yardy, you could route your probe down though the top of your mash tun lid like I did shown here
> 
> 
> 
> ...






budwiser said:


> Yardy,
> 
> I have a 1/2 inch socket cut in half and welded to the mash tun. I drilled a 8 mm or so hole in the centre of it.
> I drilled a small hole in a silicone plug which sits in the socket. There is a brass screw plug fitting with a hole in it on that so when tightened it squeezes the silicone if you get the picture.
> ...




gday fellas, thanks for the replies, wasn't ignoring you, away for bloody work again :wacko: 


a couple of top ideas there, not sure what option i'll go yet but i'm sure as shit not having the probe in there because i want to fab up a mechanised stirrer.

cheers
Yard


----------



## yardy (27/12/09)

gday brewers, 
dragged myself off the couch and did a bit to the brewery, ran the pipe from from HLT to the Tun, it probably could've run a little closer to the frame but in the absence of a decent pipe bender that's how it ended up. (plenty of swagelok  )





















cut outs for the HLT



will fit the tap to the underneath of the Tun tomorrow, just need to go to town and find a fitting that will marry a swagelok fitting to the march pump, then it's just a matter of running two more pipes for the recirc through the tun and transfer to the kettle, fitting some casters to the feet and relocating the burner holder underneath the HLT.

cheers
Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (27/12/09)

yardy said:


> gday brewers,
> dragged myself off the couch and did a bit to the brewery, ran the pipe from from HLT to the Tun, it probably could've run a little closer to the frame but in the absence of a decent pipe bender that's how it ended up. (plenty of swagelok  )
> 
> 
> ...



Looking good Yardy, glasd to see we work at the same speed

got an 82ltr boiler same as yours, still waiting for assignment, no pump either yet ( although i do own one ). no use rushing

Paul


----------



## yardy (28/12/09)

paulwolf350 said:


> Looking good Yardy, glasd to see we work at the same speed
> 
> got an 82ltr boiler same as yours, still waiting for assignment, no pump either yet ( although i do own one ). no use rushing
> 
> Paul



thanks mate, yeah nothing happens at great speed around here  

after your efficiency woes with the Tun, I'm pretty sure I know where the tap in the Tun is going.

Dave


----------



## SpillsMostOfIt (28/12/09)

Is that a 14-pound mash paddle in the foreground near the pump?


----------



## clean brewer (28/12/09)

Very nice Yardy, should be a good rig once its finished hey...  

I plan on being able to work on a stand once I start this job and have some time off...  

:icon_cheers: CB


----------



## yardy (28/12/09)

SpillsMostOfIt said:


> Is that a 14-pound mash paddle in the foreground near the pump?






clean brewer said:


> Very nice Yardy, should be a good rig once its finished hey...
> 
> I plan on being able to work on a stand once I start this job and have some time off...
> 
> cheers: CB




SMOI, that's my watchmakers hammer for delicate work  

CB, thanks mate, once you get out on site make sure you keep the Boilermakers well fed and they might fab you up some stuff, watch the Fitters though, they'll be rifling your undies drawer :lol: 



made some progress on the Tun and the False Bottom, used the cut out from the 18 gal keg for the FB, I think it will be OK but in case I have lautering issues I made another FB from stainless mesh and some other shit I had.










cut out lid from the 18 gallon





welded a swagelok nut in the FB so I could underlet












cheers
Dave


----------



## clean brewer (28/12/09)

Looks the goods mate, its amazing how much ya can get done with some time hey...  

I will make sure we work together out there, I can prob give them more than they could ever imagine, Im not any old Chef mate and when I get told I can cook whatever I want, well.... :icon_drool2: It'll be up to them..

:icon_cheers: CB

p.s. Ill have to visit when our moons align....


----------



## yardy (28/12/09)

cheers cb,

yeah, will catch up for a beer one of these days, if i get this finished we'll make it a brewday :icon_cheers: 








Dave


----------



## technocat (29/12/09)

View attachment 34215


Great idea Dave and a nice bit of work. I never stop being amazed at the ingenuity of some of the guys on this Forum which helped me put together my own gear.

:icon_cheers: 

BN


----------



## yardy (31/12/09)

thanks BN, i'm going to get stuck in over the next few days (hangover permitting) and try and finish it off :icon_cheers: 

cheers
Dave


----------



## domonsura (31/12/09)

Looking good Yardy, cool idea slotting the keg top for the false bottom.


----------



## yardy (1/1/10)

thanks mate, hope it works  

cheers
Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (1/1/10)

> after your efficiency woes with the Tun, I'm pretty sure I know where the tap in the Tun is going.





My FB is similar to your slotted one, Doug uses one identical to your second one, runs off from the bottom of the vessel and gets 80 +% eff fly sparging

With my tun, I have been informed to ditch fly sparging and batch sparge to cure most of my lautering problems, will see how it goes

Paul


----------



## yardy (1/1/10)

paulwolf350 said:


> My FB is similar to your slotted one, Doug uses one identical to your second one, *runs off from the bottom of the vessel* and gets 80 +% eff fly sparging
> 
> With my tun, I have been informed to ditch fly sparging and batch sparge to cure most of my lautering problems, will see how it goes
> 
> Paul




i'm going to fit the tap to the bottom, not sure how i'm going to run the first brew, batch i suppose..

Dave


----------



## Tony (1/1/10)

Hey yardy.

I have a FB similar to your mesh one..... have used it for many years and it works a treat. I just whis i had of made it bigger. I love the look of your slotted one though, it wont buckle!

For my Mash Tun, i wanted to drain from under the FB without having any tube going through it. I figured it would be a pain while trying to stir the mash.

So i did this. Probably a bit late but it works very well. 

Your rig is looking tops.... keep the pics coming

Cheers


----------



## alford_j (1/1/10)

I did something a bit different from others as I started with a second hand tun which had a threaded socket in the bottom. I added some half inch parallel thread with some holes in the side of it and fitted a standard 12 inch false bottom over it and secured with a threaded cap. Holds everything together nicely.




The outside has elbow and tap.

Alf


----------



## yardy (2/1/10)

Tony said:


> Hey yardy.
> 
> I have a FB similar to your mesh one..... have used it for many years and it works a treat. I just whis i had of made it bigger. I love the look of your slotted one though, it wont buckle!
> 
> ...



G'day Tony,

do you have any recirc/channeling issues with the return to MLT being a single pipe instead of a ring, or do attach sparge ring or hose etc to that pipe ?

Cheers
Dave

btw, thanks for the info Alfie


----------



## yardy (2/1/10)

g'day brewers,

just the kettle to do now, all the plumbing for the MLT is done, got the pump wired up (Thanks Paul  ) and running with no leaks B) 

brass manifold made from a threaded bung





in place below the FB





plumbing





recirc ring in action





also got the site glass done






cheers
Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (2/1/10)

You have almost inspired me to go and do some work on mine Dave,

Bloody good show

Paul


----------



## geoff_tewierik (2/1/10)

Dave, I may have missed it, but is the recirc ring a variable height unit, or is it fixed at the one height?


----------



## yardy (2/1/10)

paulwolf350 said:


> You have almost inspired me to go and do some work on mine Dave,
> 
> Bloody good show
> 
> Paul




Almost ?  

thanks again for the hand mate



geoff_tewierik said:


> Dave, I may have missed it, but is the recirc ring a variable height unit, or is it fixed at the one height?




g'day Geoff,

it's variable mate, i've got 3/8th silicon hose as the vertical, it can vary in height about 60mm before it starts to kink and have any effect on the outflow so hopefully that'll be OK, if not just always cut a piece to suit B) 

cheers
Dave


----------



## Screwtop (3/1/10)

geoff_tewierik said:


> is the recirc ring a variable height unit, or is it fixed at the one height?




In reality the volume of liquid movement during recirculation and sparge is quite small (at homebrew scale) and no spray or distribution system works very well or is really required, a single pipe manifold for wort return to the tun is sufficient.

Cheers,

Screwy


----------



## QldKev (3/1/10)

Looking good Dave; love that mother of a tap on the side. Being made with solid pipe, how will you rip it down for cleaning?

Watching to get ideas for when I go 3V

QldKev.


----------



## chappo1970 (3/1/10)

Gotta agree with all here you're doing a bloody good job mate. I've really been enjoying this thread and they way you have been keeping us updated on your progress. Keep up the good work Yardy! :beerbang: 

Chap Chap


----------



## yardy (3/1/10)

Screwtop said:


> and no spray or distribution system works very well or is really required, a single pipe manifold for wort return to the tun is sufficient.



G'day Screwy,

could you direct me to a link that shows how these returns don't work very well ? thanks.

i'm no engineer but after re-reading Palmer's thoughts on mashing and MLT design i'll go with the ring, inverted obviously.

Cheers
Dave


----------



## yardy (3/1/10)

QldKev said:


> Looking good Dave; love that mother of a tap on the side. Being made with solid pipe, how will you rip it down for cleaning?
> 
> Watching to get ideas for when I go 3V
> 
> QldKev.



G'day Kev, not sure which tap you mean mate but it's all swagelok comp fittings, piece of pi$$ to pull to bits, comes apart at the base of the Tun and at the HLT, i figure once the transfer is done and the boil started i'll dump the spent grain, hose out and reassemble for hot water rinse or PBW etc.




Chappo said:


> Gotta agree with all here you're doing a bloody good job mate. I've really been enjoying this thread and they way you have been keeping us updated on your progress. Keep up the good work Yardy! :beerbang:
> 
> Chap Chap



G'day Chappy,

cheers bloke, looking forward to see what doesn't work :lol: 

Cheers
Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (3/1/10)

You going to flys parge through the ring or is it for recirc only?

Paul


----------



## domonsura (3/1/10)

You won't be able to recirc through the ring very well Yardy, massive potential to block up with shit.......


----------



## TidalPete (3/1/10)

domonsura said:


> You won't be able to recirc through the ring very well Yardy, massive potential to block up with shit.......



Drilled out the holes on an old shower head & just use a longer copper tube for double batches. Very happy with it. The only thing I'd change would be to make it adjustable inside the tun one of these days.




TP


----------



## Screwtop (3/1/10)

yardy said:


> G'day Screwy,
> 
> could you direct me to a link that shows how these returns don't work very well ? thanks.
> 
> ...




No I can't Dave, could only direct you to my place for a brewday. Can put the Spray head or rotating arm on the tun to show you the results. Plus pumping/recirculating too fast results in a compacted grainbed,

Cheers,

Screwy


----------



## yardy (4/1/10)

fair enough, can't argue with experience  , I will no doubt alter/change/modify/cut up with a 9" grinder/tap with 4 pound hammer, a few things on it's maiden run  

cheers
Dave


----------



## yardy (4/1/10)

just a few minor things now, will fit some casters when bundy bunnings get their fecking finger out and order some ( bunnings really shits me to tears), insulate the MLT lid, weld the gas bottle holder on and some other stuff..

pump plumbing





i put a valve in here as a drain or in case of a stuck sparge





kettle





burner

















RDWHAHB






the whole system is soaking in PBW o'nite, the burner is performing slightly better now, from an ambient temp of 25*C i got 40 litres up to 70*C at 2*C a minute, transfer into the tun lost nothing which is normal i suppose and after recircing through the tun for 20 minutes it lost 5*C, right then, that's about it, brewday wednesday i reckon.

Cheers
Dave


----------



## yardy (5/1/10)

TidalPete said:


> Drilled out the holes on an old shower head & just use a longer copper tube for double batches. Very happy with it. The only thing I'd change would be to make it adjustable inside the tun one of these days.
> View attachment 34342
> 
> 
> TP



G'day TP,

cool idea, how do attach it to the return ? got another pic ?

cheers
Dave


----------



## TidalPete (5/1/10)

yardy said:


> G'day TP,
> 
> cool idea, how do attach it to the return ? got another pic ?
> 
> ...




Dave,

The return entering the tun is just a short length of all-thread & the shower head is connected with a compression fitting, the nut of which has been altered to form a large wing nut for easy on\off.




TP


----------



## yardy (5/1/10)

TidalPete said:


> Dave,
> 
> The return entering the tun is just a short length of all-thread & the shower head is connected with a compression fitting, the nut of which has been altered to form a large wing nut for easy on\off.
> 
> ...



that looks the ducks TP, i feel a trip to the tip shop coming up  

cheers
Dave


----------



## yardy (8/1/10)

well, the trials of a new system..

firstly, thanks to gregs for coming around and supplying refractometer and moral support ( good bloke with good taste in music B) )


everything ran well, the recirc/sparge ring worked but needs to be on a float as the silicon tube kinks under the weight but there wasn't the flow problems as expected with the ring, in fact it flowed perfectly.

i had a minor stuck sparge, from i expect, my inexperience with the pump and outflow control but underletting a few hundred ml soon cleared it and i throttled back on the pump and all was good.

efficiency wasn't bad, after a few factors like missing the mash temp by 4*C and some other minors it still came in at 84% B) 

with any setup there a few things that need tweaking but overall i'm stoked at how it ran


heads up Bundy Brewers, brewday at the park very soon :beer: 

cheers

Dave


----------



## raven19 (8/1/10)

84% efficiency is still very tidy imo.

Nice work!!!


----------



## QldKev (8/1/10)

Sounds like a sucsessful first run. There is always 1 or 2 items to refine; and the efficiency at 84%, must have been pretty happy with that.

Bring on the brew day :icon_chickcheers: 

QldKev


----------



## AndrewQLD (8/1/10)

Great stuff Yardy, looks a treat. Glad the day went well and I'll be looking forward to a sample at your brew day.
Always seems to be at least one of the Bundy brewers willing to lend a hand up here, we're an awesome bunch hey :lol: .

Andrew


----------



## yardy (8/1/10)

raven19 said:


> 84% efficiency is still very tidy imo.
> 
> Nice work!!!






QldKev said:


> Sounds like a sucsessful first run. There is always 1 or 2 items to refine; and the efficiency at 84%, must have been pretty happy with that.
> 
> Bring on the brew day :icon_chickcheers:
> 
> QldKev






AndrewQLD said:


> Great stuff Yardy, looks a treat. Glad the day went well and I'll be looking forward to a sample at your brew day.
> Always seems to be at least one of the Bundy brewers willing to lend a hand up here, we're an awesome bunch hey :lol: .
> 
> Andrew




thanks fellas, yeah, pretty happy with 84  

G'day Andrew, too right we're an awesome bunch, the envy of the amateur brewing world i would imagine  

cheers

Dave


----------



## gregs (9/1/10)

It was great to meet you in person Yardy; youre another welcoming Bundy brewer with that easy going approach to life that makes people feel at home. 

If youre brew rig had a name it would be (Simplicity), HLT gravity fed then recirc to clear, dump to kettle, awesome. 

Looking forward to a brew day, with the combination of great beer and great music it will be one to remember.

Catch ya.


----------



## yardy (9/1/10)

thanks mate, nice to finally catch up for a beer and a yarn  

cheers

Dave


----------



## yardy (13/1/10)

g'day brewers

just a few pics of todays brew, went with 40% wheat ( no gulls ) to maybe test the False Bottom and recirculation ring, no dice..

didn't have any flow problems and the grain bed after using the ring looks much more _even_ after recirc/sparge than just using a single pipe as the return, with the single pipe the grain bed, after sparging, had a massive _washout_ even on very low flow.

anyway, only 2 brews into the upgrade and i'm starting to hit all the numbers pretty spot on after altering a few beersmith calcs, thanks Greg :icon_cheers: 

*recirc/sparge ring Mk 2, flows like a bought one  *






*no channeling here*






*you have to love the 18 gal kettle with it's built in trub trap*






cheers

Dave


----------



## chappo1970 (13/1/10)

Nice one Yardy!

Just needs a HERMS attached and it will be perfection h34r: :lol: .

Just a quick question Yardy did you TIG or MIG weld the Stainless?

Glad your hitting your targets which has to be satisfying after the build.

Chap Chap


----------



## Franko (13/1/10)

Nice Yardy

Franko


----------



## yardy (13/1/10)

Chappo said:


> Nice one Yardy!
> 
> Just needs a HERMS attached and it will be perfection h34r: :lol: .
> 
> ...



haha, i'm struggling with this one chap, i don't need herminating just yet :lol: 

it's all 316 stick mate, i was going to spring for a TIG at home but if I really need to TIG it I'll take it to work.

yeah the first brew was a bit off target which was to be expected but today was 99% spot on so I had a blast, I'm pretty happy with the ring, the difference in the grainbed is unreal and the clarity into and out of the kettle has improved a lot as well.

cheers

Dave


----------



## gregs (13/1/10)

Ill have to get me one of those sparge rings. Looks the goods Yardy, nice one.


----------



## Screwtop (13/1/10)

yardy said:


> g'day brewers
> 
> just a few pics of todays brew, went with 40% wheat ( no gulls ) to maybe test the False Bottom and recirculation ring, no dice..
> 
> ...




Yard, great to see it's all working well, the large holes in the ring shouldn't cause any probs if you do go to HERMS. Interesting to see some floury muck on top of the grainbed, you will find cutting back on stirring will reduce this, it's the small particles and flour that are stirred into suspension, being lightest the flour settles last. If you can reduce this you might squeeze a few more points out of an already high efficiency :beer: 

Cheers,

Screwy

PS: If the entry of a single pipe inlet is a distance above the grainbed a washout will occur, makes no diff and no effect on efficiency.


----------



## QldKev (13/1/10)

You've got a damn fine looking ring Yardy  

QldKev


----------



## yardy (13/1/10)

gregs said:


> Ill have to get me one of those sparge rings. Looks the goods Yardy, nice one.



'
plenty of copper here mate  




Screwtop said:


> Yard, great to see it's all working well, the large holes in the ring shouldn't cause any probs if you do go to HERMS. Interesting to see some floury muck on top of the grainbed, you will find cutting back on stirring will reduce this, it's the small particles and flour that are stirred into suspension, being lightest the flour settles last. If you can reduce this you might squeeze a few more points out of an already high efficiency :beer:
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> ...




Never say never but right now i couldn't see any reason to build a herms, if consistency doesn't come then i'd consider it i suppose but not atm, i heeded your advice and didn't stir Screwy so the _muck_ might be from the fine crush, like I said, I wanted to test the FB and lautering so I ran it through the mill twice ( 40% wheat no problem ), the only stirring was at dough in and about 20 to 30 seconds whilst underletting the sparge water.
Not too sure how you couldn't have the return a decent distance above the grainbed, it would make double batches a pita if mine were any lower, i agree a single return doesn't effect efficiency as greg will also agree from last weeks 84% but it does effect clarity as todays brew has shown, i know it's the clarity out of the kettle that we're concerned with but today i had both, clarity in and out.

cheers

Dave


----------



## yardy (13/1/10)

QldKev said:


> You've got a damn fine looking ring Yardy
> 
> QldKev




thanks Kev, should have some ontap for a brewday soon  

you going to start building soon ? there were 2 keg shaped vessels in the local trader the other day, sing out if you need a hand with the build :icon_cheers: 

cheers

Dave


----------



## bradsbrew (13/1/10)

yardy said:


> '
> 
> 
> 
> ...




So Yardy are you just using the pump to recirculate the mash, then switching to HLT to bring mash out temp up?? 

Brad


----------



## Screwtop (13/1/10)

yardy said:


> '
> plenty of copper here mate
> 
> 
> ...



All good mate, should have clarified re the return height, as always there are little differences in the way brewers do things.






I use different types of return manifold, for single batches the longer one with a flap for dispersing the wort, for double batches the T type. Originally the T had sealed ends until it blocked up (only small holes drilled in it) from bits when recirculating.

For good clarity use a MO step around 77 for 10 min, the wort will run clear as.

Cheers,

Screwy


----------



## yardy (13/1/10)

bradsbrew said:


> So Yardy are you just using the pump to recirculate the mash, then switching to HLT to bring mash out temp up??
> 
> Brad




Yeah Brad, underlet gravity feed from HLT to MLT, mash out is the same, recirc 10 min at 80ish and pump to kettle, gravity feed batch sparge and another recirc then pump again to kettle and boil, pretty simple, both brews have been in the 80's efficiency, the tun is losing 1 degree over the 60 min mash with just camp mat and 100mph tape as insulation, temperature drop from strike water in HLT to MLT after dough in is 5 degrees, the recirculation temp on the sparge worked out well today going in at 86 degrees and staying a constant 79 for the recirc before kettle transfer.

hope that makes sense

cheers

Dave


----------



## bradsbrew (13/1/10)

yardy said:


> Yeah Brad, underlet gravity feed from HLT to MLT, mash out is the same, recirc 10 min at 80ish and pump to kettle, gravity feed batch sparge and another recirc then pump again to kettle and boil, pretty simple, both brews have been in the 80's efficiency, the tun is losing 1 degree over the 60 min mash with just camp mat and 100mph tape as insulation, temperature drop from strike water in HLT to MLT after dough in is 5 degrees, the recirculation temp on the sparge worked out well today going in at 86 degrees and staying a constant 79 for the recirc before kettle transfer.
> 
> hope that makes sense
> 
> ...


Yep makes total sense and yet another good idea. I'm tossing up on going hermes or not. Your steup looks like a good inbetween and might head that way once I get the pump. Glad I havent made the rig yet. I would had to of update/rebuild it three times in the last week.

Brad


----------



## yardy (14/1/10)

bradsbrew said:


> Yep makes total sense and yet another good idea. I'm tossing up on going hermes or not. Your steup looks like a good inbetween and might head that way once I get the pump. Glad I havent made the rig yet. I would had to of update/rebuild it three times in the last week.
> 
> Brad




Thanks, bloody unreal how simple a brewday is now just with the additions of underletting and the pump, i thought it would be unavoidable but i haven't had to disassemble the system to clean it, whilst the boil is on i just scoop the grain from the tun and with the dump valve under the tun (see pic) it's just a hose out into a bucket under the tun, boil a small amount in the HLT and pump through, when it cools just add some starsan and pump that through the system.
looking forward to seeing what system you go with







cheers

Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (19/1/10)

Yardy, what did you end up using for your false bottom?


Looking good, by the way, very jealous

Paul


----------



## yardy (19/1/10)

paulwolf350 said:


> Yardy, what did you end up using for your false bottom?
> 
> 
> Looking good, by the way, very jealous
> ...




Gday Paul,




i didn't even try the ss mesh one, this one seems to be pretty good so far, i had a small stuck sparge problem on the first brew but i think it was due more to excess flow rather than the FB, a small underlet of about 500ml and it cleared, i ran a 40% wheat through it the other day with no flow probs  

you're welcome to the mesh one i made if you're stuck for a FB

cheers

Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (21/1/10)

I have a craftbrewer false bottom at the moment, but i am starting to build my herms, and I am thinking of changing my mlt to one similar to yours with the outlet in the bottom instead of the side

Paul


----------



## yardy (21/1/10)

paulwolf350 said:


> I have a craftbrewer false bottom at the moment, but i am starting to build my herms, and I am thinking of changing my mlt to one similar to yours with the outlet in the bottom instead of the side
> 
> Paul



my advice if you do go with the outlet in the base of the tun is to also install a dump valve (see above), even though the swageloks are piss easy to disassemble and the whole show comes apart in minutes I just scoop the bulk of the spent grain into a 20lt bucket and rinse the rest out the valve.

Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (21/1/10)

yardy said:


> my advice if you do go with the outlet in the base of the tun is to also install a dump valve (see above), even though the swageloks are piss easy to disassemble and the whole show comes apart in minutes I just scoop the bulk of the spent grain into a 20lt bucket and rinse the rest out the valve.
> 
> Dave



I love your dump valve and am planning some thing similar. Although I am planning on silicone hose, instead of that Flash as a rat stainless and swagelocks you got

edit:


>



if you are running off fron the bottom of the MLT, where does the elbow and stainless fitting attach?

Paul


----------



## yardy (21/1/10)

pages 6 & 7 mate, shows the plumbing and the screw in manifold made from the brass bung

Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (21/1/10)

Rito, 

you have it plumbed to a tap in the side and can also draw from the bottom of the tun?

Saw the brass bung too, you come up with some really good shite, for a boily :huh: 

your false bottom is fkn amazing, ingenuity, cheap, working. I love it

Paul


----------



## yardy (22/1/10)

paulwolf350 said:


> Rito,
> 
> you have it plumbed to a tap in the side and can also draw from the bottom of the tun?
> 
> ...



no tap in the side mate, the only tap from the Tun is the one at the pump, the plumbing runs directly from the HLT to the FB which underlets.

come down for a beer and have a look is the easiest way  

Dave


----------



## paulwolf350 (22/1/10)

Ok, ok. Underleting pipe in the side then  

told you i can be a bit slow


----------



## yardy (8/5/10)

i got sick of dragging the rig around the shed so i pulled my finger out, welded some casters on and made a splash guard for the pump out of some old shit i found at work 

*old shit*





*welding light guage with rods... fun*





*a good excuse for a pint*





cheers

Dave


----------



## TidalPete (8/5/10)

yardy said:


> i got sick of dragging the rig around the shed so i pulled my finger out, welded some casters on and made a splash guard for the pump out of some old shit i found at work
> 
> *old shit*
> 
> ...



Bloody hell yardy! Stockpile all your unwanted "Old Shit" from work for a while & I'll be up there with a trailer ASAP. :lol: 
You & the other person do ok don't you?

TP


----------



## yardy (8/5/10)

TidalPete said:


> Bloody hell yardy! Stockpile all your unwanted "Old Shit" from work for a while & I'll be up there with a trailer ASAP. :lol:
> You & the other person do ok don't you?
> 
> TP



bring the 6 X 4 TP, plenty of old shit here :icon_cheers: 

I suspect the other person does fairly well in the gathering game..

cheers

Dave


----------



## billygoat (11/5/10)

Hello Dave,
I have read this thread a couple of times over the last few days, as I am just about to start building a set up similiar to yours. You seem to have done a top job. I am using three 50 litre CUB barrels. I like your idea of using the cut off lid as the false bottom. The brass bung that you have at the bottom of the mash tun is interesting. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but what does it do? Does it act as a strainer of sorts? Is there much that you would change if you started again? What sort of seals did you use where your bulkhead fittings sealed against the kegs, they looked like red fibre washers. I know I have asked alot of questions, but I am just trying to get a few things straight in my head before I start.
Cheers
billygoat


----------



## yardy (13/5/10)

billygoat said:


> Hello Dave,
> I have read this thread a couple of times over the last few days, as I am just about to start building a set up similiar to yours. You seem to have done a top job. I am using three 50 litre CUB barrels. I like your idea of using the cut off lid as the false bottom. The brass bung that you have at the bottom of the mash tun is interesting. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but what does it do? Does it act as a strainer of sorts? Is there much that you would change if you started again? What sort of seals did you use where your bulkhead fittings sealed against the kegs, they looked like red fibre washers. I know I have asked alot of questions, but I am just trying to get a few things straight in my head before I start.
> Cheers
> billygoat



Gday bg,

thanks, the brass bung acts a mini manifold below the false bottom, i suppose it's like a secondary 'filter'..
another bonus it has is when i'm cleaning the system and recirculating 5 or so litres of pbw through the pump it restricts the flow and stops the pump drawing air, stops the whirlpool..

yeah mate the seals are just bog standard fibre washers from cunnings, the best tip i can give with the bulkhead fittings etc is to always have a couple of extra flanged nuts on hand as i have broken two so far, lucky i had spares.

i don't think i would change anything apart from putting the casters on the stand immediately instead of dragging it around the shed for months, imho the best part of the rig is the CIP drain valve below the tun, i can literally have the tun emptied of the spent grain, rinsed and recirculating hot water from the HLT before the kettle comes to boil after transfer.

sorry for the late reply, limited access to interweb atm.

hope this helps :icon_cheers: 

Dave


----------



## QldKev (13/5/10)

hey Yardy; WHENS THE BREWDAY :icon_drunk: :icon_drunk: :icon_drunk:


----------



## billygoat (13/5/10)

Hello Dave,
thanks for the reply and tips.
Cheers
billygoat


----------



## yardy (14/5/10)

QldKev said:


> hey Yardy; WHENS THE BREWDAY




gday kev, dunno about a brewday because i'm on a job with a shitty roster but you, andrew, greg etc will have to come out for a few beers when i do get home :icon_chickcheers: 




billygoat said:


> Hello Dave,
> thanks for the reply and tips.
> Cheers
> billygoat



no problem bg, would like to see some pics of the build when you get into it  

cheers

Dave


----------



## QldKev (20/5/10)

yardy said:


> gday kev, dunno about a brewday because i'm on a job with a shitty roster but you, andrew, greg etc will have to come out for a few beers when i do get home :icon_chickcheers:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Sounds like a plan.

QldKev


----------



## yardy (3/7/10)

billygoat said:


> *Hello Dave,
> I have read this thread a couple of times over the last few days, as I am just about to start building a set up similiar to yours. You seem to have done a top job. I am using three 50 litre CUB barrels. I like your idea of using the cut off lid as the false bottom. The brass bung that you have at the bottom of the mash tun is interesting. I know this sounds like a stupid question, but what does it do? Does it act as a strainer of sorts? Is there much that you would change if you started again? What sort of seals did you use where your bulkhead fittings sealed against the kegs, they looked like red fibre washers. I know I have asked alot of questions, but I am just trying to get a few things straight in my head before I start.
> Cheers
> billygoat*



hows the build going bg ?

Dave


----------



## cdbrown (16/7/10)

looks great billygoat Any chances of a few pics of the 3-ring burner mount. Currently trying to figure out how to mount mine to the frame. Also - where did you get the sight glass from?

Cheers
-cdbrown


----------



## billygoat (16/7/10)

Hello CD,
the three ring burner is clamped to the frame. It is a bit hard to take a photo of it but I will give it a try over the weekend. I have welded two pieces of all thread to the stand. They come up between the three pipes that supply the three rings. A piece of metal with two holes drilled in it, is then tightened up against the burner pipes. It works ok and can be easily removed. The sight glass is just a length of PTFE 1/4 inch tubing I had laying around. The fitting is a 1/2 inch elbow with a 1/4 inch tube fitting screwed in it. The tubing probably needs to be bigger.
Cheers
billygoat


----------



## yardy (16/7/10)

billygoat said:


> Hello Dave,
> I have nearly finished the build. Gave it a clean today and pumped cleaning solution around the lines and vessels. I have found I need to change a couple of small things but it could be used ok as is. Hope to put some grain in it over the next week or two. Need to get to Melbourne to buy it. I used your idea for the false bottom. The picture isn't great quality but it gives you some idea.
> Cheers
> billygoat




Gday BG,

nice job mate, glad you got some ideas from the build ( and they worked  ) 

would like to see some more pics, especially the MLT if you get a chance

cheers

Dave


----------



## yardy (17/7/10)

billygoat said:


> Dave, here is a photo of the MLT. Bit hard to see but you'll get the idea.




looks good bg, do you have a bung under the false bottom ?

cheers

Dave


----------



## billygoat (17/7/10)

yardy said:


> looks good bg, do you have a bung under the false bottom ?
> 
> cheers
> 
> ...


----------



## mxd (17/7/10)

hi billygoat,

if that's a nasa burner under the kettle, could I get same photo's of how that is mounted, I will need to mount my nasa some how.

looks great by the way.

I was going to have my pump the other way (i.e the in port facing up) as I believe it helps with priming.

cheers
Matt


----------



## yardy (18/7/10)

billygoat said:


> No I haven't Dave. I have only pumped cleaning solution through all the lines and valves. Do you think it helps?
> Cheers




well all systems differ mate but if I recirculate 5 litres of PBW etc without the bung/manifold, the whirlpool causes the pump to draw air, probably won't be a problem but on another note the slots in your false bottom look a little oversized so the bung might be a good idea.
on the trial run when your'e ready to recirc and transfer just start off with a very slow pump until the grain bed sets, see how it goes and check your clarity *into* the kettle, imho this is just as important as clarity out of the kettle, never know you might never need the bung.

do you have the same setup in case you need to fit it ?

















cheers

Dave


----------



## billygoat (18/7/10)

Hello Dave,
Its not the same set up but I could fit a bung if needed. I have been pumping PBW through that outlet without it whirlpooling. I can also pump out through the outlet that goes through the false bottom. The slots in the false bottom are cutting disc width. I have another spare lid that I can make another false bottom if need be.
Cheers


----------



## praxis178 (18/7/10)

billygoat said:


> Hello Dave,
> Its not the same set up but I could fit a bung if needed. I have been pumping PBW through that outlet without it whirlpooling. I can also pump out through the outlet that goes through the false bottom. The slots in the false bottom are cutting disc width. I have another spare lid that I can make another false bottom if need be.
> Cheers



Get some of those Stainless Steel specific cutting discs they are only ~1.5mm thick to cut real quick, but that's not important, it's the width that's the cool bit for this application. Probably won't need to make another falsy though, I've found that grain will bridge over a surprisingly large gap given time.


----------



## yardy (3/9/10)

gday BG, nice job mate, what type of hose is that you're using ?

ss compression fittings make life easy don't they :icon_cheers: 

cheers

Dave


----------



## billygoat (4/9/10)

Its silicon hose.


----------



## Barley Belly (4/9/10)

yardy said:


> ss compression fittings make life easy don't they :icon_cheers:



Where did you guys buy your 1/2 SS Compression fitting from???

I'm just after the nut and olive.


----------



## yardy (4/9/10)

Barley Belly said:


> Where did you guys buy your 1/2 SS Compression fitting from???
> 
> I'm just after the nut and olive.




gday BB, this is what i use http://www.swagelok.com/fittings/tube_fitt...gs_overview.htm

cheers

Dave


----------



## balconybrewer (17/1/11)

yardy said:


> gday BB, this is what i use http://www.swagelok.com/fittings/tube_fitt...gs_overview.htm
> 
> cheers
> 
> Dave


----------



## yardy (29/5/11)

a couple of pics since upgrading to the CFC


----------



## humulus (29/5/11)

Hey Yardy what is the lid from on your MLT? :icon_cheers:


----------



## QldKev (29/5/11)

Hey Yardy, does the beer taste any good from it... :chug:


----------



## yardy (29/5/11)

humulus said:


> *Hey Yardy what is the lid from on your MLT? *



it's a wok lid mate, pilfered form 'er indoors :icon_cheers: 



QldKev said:


> *Hey Yardy, does the beer taste any good from it... *




g'day kev, doesn't taste any good, tastes fkucking excellent :icon_chickcheers: 


imho :icon_cheers:


----------



## bradsbrew (29/5/11)

Ah if only it was fully automated and set up in your laundry and in 3d. B) 

Lookin good, what sort of time does it take to get down to pitchin temp?

Cheers


----------



## amiddler (29/5/11)

:icon_offtopic: That font is fricken cool Yardy. Where did you pick it up, or is it a one off hand made? :icon_cheers:

Edit: Spulling


----------



## yardy (30/5/11)

bradsbrew said:


> *Ah if only it was fully automated and set up in your laundry and in 3d*
> 
> *Lookin good, what sort of time does it take to get down to pitchin temp?*
> 
> *Cheers*



gday brad, about 30 minutes with the pre-chiller to get down to 17*C, it sucks arse a bit but the bore water temp here is 22*C+

yes, thought about fully automating the brewery but i'm too fond of beer to spend 11 years searching for some big **** off valves that will tear the welds on the tun :icon_cheers: 





Drew said:


> *That font is fricken cool Yardy. Where did you pick it up, or is it a one off hand made? *
> 
> Edit: Spulling



thanks Drew, search the members here for _*'cellar dweller'*_

i bought it off him a few years ago, i think he comes across this stuff every now and then, good bloke to deal with, worth a PM :icon_cheers: 

cheers


----------



## fixa (1/6/11)

Yardy!
long time mate.
Brewery looks the goods fella, good job!!


----------



## yardy (1/6/11)

fixa said:


> Yardy!
> long time mate.
> Brewery looks the goods fella, good job!!



maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaate, you went from Mackay, straight past Bundy to Wodonga and didn't even drop in and pay me back that 7 dollars you owe me.. :icon_cheers: 

good to see you're still flogging along cobber, i wondered what happened to you.

you coming up for the air show ?

cheers


----------



## fixa (1/6/11)

yardy said:


> maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaate, you went from Mackay, straight past Bundy to Wodonga and didn't even drop in and pay me back that 7 dollars you owe me.. :icon_cheers:
> 
> good to see you're still flogging along cobber, i wondered what happened to you.
> 
> ...




Mate! went over the top of ya at 35000ft....lol!!

Yeah still kicking along. :icon_drunk: many more micro's down this way to wet the whistle!

Would love to come up for the airshow but prob not this year, cash tree is in severe pain..

You still out in the holes?


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