# BrewZilla 65L



## Cloud Surfer (27/11/20)

I see KL are having a Black Friday sale with $100 off their 65L BrewZilla. I’m slightly tempted given it seems good value at only $550. But is a 65L overkill given I will never brew double batches. Though I will be using it for high OG (1.120) type beer that I guess is going to have a big grain bill. Would the 30L version be big enough to make a 12% RIS for example?

I had no intention of buying into AG just yet and have done zero research on brewing vessels, but I do like a sale. I’ve got today only to decide before the sale ends.


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## djebel (27/11/20)

A 30L unit would certainly be capable of making a 12% beer. Just not very much of it in a single batch.


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## ozdevil (27/11/20)

cloud Surfer before you decide on the 65l you need to be aware you need a 15amp gpo to run it with all elements otherwise you need to get a 15amp to 10amp lead and you will only be able to run the 2 small heating elements

i love my 65l i am yet to do a double batch as yet, but i have done single batches ok in it


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## Cloud Surfer (27/11/20)

djebel said:


> A 30L unit would certainly be capable of making a 12% beer. Just not very much of it in a single batch.


Should have mentioned I like to do 21L batches.


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## Cloud Surfer (27/11/20)

ozdevil said:


> cloud Surfer before you decide on the 65l you need to be aware you need a 15amp gpo to run it with all elements otherwise you need to get a 15amp to 10amp lead and you will only be able to run the 2 small heating elements
> 
> i love my 65l i am yet to do a double batch as yet, but i have done single batches ok in it


I did see that 15 amp requirement. Do smaller batches run ok on just the 2 elements?


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## malt and barley blues (27/11/20)

Cloud Surfer said:


> I see KL are having a Black Friday sale with $100 off their 65L BrewZilla. I’m slightly tempted given it seems good value at only $550. But is a 65L overkill given I will never brew double batches. Though I will be using it for high OG (1.120) type beer that I guess is going to have a big grain bill. Would the 30L version be big enough to make a 12% RIS for example?
> 
> I had no intention of buying into AG just yet and have done zero research on brewing vessels, but I do like a sale. I’ve got today only to decide before the sale ends.


Wait until next year there will be a new vessel on the market.


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## ozdevil (28/11/20)

Cloud Surfer said:


> I did see that 15 amp requirement. Do smaller batches run ok on just the 2 elements?




aplogies for the late reply but yes it will work fine


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## Cloud Surfer (28/11/20)

ozdevil said:


> aplogies for the late reply but yes it will work fine


That’s good to know.

I decided for the sake of only $100 not to rush into buying the Brewzilla. Mostly because I’m really enjoying where I’m at right now with my brewing and I want to stick with this process for a bit longer.


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## Grmblz (28/11/20)

Good call, the new design seems to address all the common shortcomings of the cheap single vessels, it will be more expensive I assume but if they have a heap of the old ones in stock they may do a fire sale to get rid of them (or leave it as a cheaper alternative?)
A word of caution though, the new V.1 will probably have teething problems if history repeats itself, KL have a habit of letting the early adopters do their real world testing for them, then bringing out a V.1.1 followed by a V1.2, hopefully they have learnt from past mistakes but I'm not confident, it's a hard argument when they do incremental changes and refer to it as product improvement, that may be the case but why not do some proper testing first to iron out the wrinkles and then release a mature product?


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## rayhaynes62 (29/11/20)

I currently brew in a grainfather and would like to double batch some of my more tried and tested recipes. 
Will the unit brew 40L batches at around 8%.


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## Grmblz (29/11/20)

rayhaynes62 said:


> I currently brew in a grainfather and would like to double batch some of my more tried and tested recipes.
> Will the unit brew 40L batches at around 8%.


G30 or G70


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## WitWonder (18/2/21)

malt and barley blues said:


> Wait until next year there will be a new vessel on the market.


Not sure where that information comes from, local stockist I spoke with this week who imports them by the container load direct from China has no knowledge of a new version. Also reckons they have about a 10% return rate as opposed to about 25% when they first came out.

Anyways after a couple of years break from homebrewing and previously brewing on a 50L Braumeister I've pulled the pin on one - can't go wrong at that price. Just need the sparky to wire up a 15A plug. First stop ... NEIPA.


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## malt and barley blues (18/2/21)

capncrunch said:


> Not sure where that information comes from, local stockist I spoke with this week who imports them by the container load direct from China has no knowledge of a new version. Also reckons they have about a 10% return rate as opposed to about 25% when they first came out.
> 
> Anyways after a couple of years break from homebrewing and previously brewing on a 50L Braumeister I've pulled the pin on one - can't go wrong at that price. Just need the sparky to wire up a 15A plug. First stop ... NEIPA.


Who is the local stockist and what is he importing from China by the container load?


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## Cloud Surfer (18/2/21)

The BrewZilla V4.0 was slated for release at the end of last year. But they are having some trouble with developing it, and when I spoke to KegLand they told me it will be mid year at the earliest until it’s released. That’s a pity, because there were a few features in it that I really like. Anyway, I decided not to endlessly wait so I jumped in and bought the 65L V3.1.1.

First brew was a Pliny The Elder IIPA clone. The BrewZilla was so easy to use, it felt like cheating. My immediate impression stepping up to all grain with the BrewZilla is my beer’s taken a big step forward, and the whole process is simpler than messing with extract and steeping grains, then trying to combine them to get the flavours you’re looking for.


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## WitWonder (19/2/21)

malt and barley blues said:


> Who is the local stockist and what is he importing from China by the container load?


Brewmart in Bayswater (Perth) - importing the Brewzilla - isn't that what this thread is about??


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## Malted Mick (19/2/21)

Cloud Surfer said:


> The BrewZilla V4.0 was slated for release at the end of last year. But they are having some trouble with developing it, and when I spoke to KegLand they told me it will be mid year at the earliest until it’s released. That’s a pity, because there were a few features in it that I really like. Anyway, I decided not to endlessly wait so I jumped in and bought the 65L V3.1.1.
> 
> First brew was a Pliny The Elder IIPA clone. The BrewZilla was so easy to use, it felt like cheating. My immediate impression stepping up to all grain with the BrewZilla is my beer’s taken a big step forward, and the whole process is simpler than messing with extract and steeping grains, then trying to combine them to get the flavours you’re looking for.


Congrats on your first brew. I have done a PTE myself in my 35L, turned out great. How did you go with the trub, did you transfer the wort straight to a fermenter or hot cube. I struggle with my set up in settling out the hot and cold break to form contained trub at the bottom. I know a little break or trub should not effect the beer, but I have been trying to keep it all out of my fermenter. I use hop bags as well during the boil and whirlpool!


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## Cloud Surfer (19/2/21)

Malted Mick said:


> Congrats on your first brew. I have done a PTE myself in my 35L, turned out great. How did you go with the trub, did you transfer the wort straight to a fermenter or hot cube. I struggle with my set up in settling out the hot and cold break to form contained trub at the bottom. I know a little break or trub should not effect the beer, but I have been trying to keep it all out of my fermenter. I use hop bags as well during the boil and whirlpool!


I'm using almost 300g of different hops for this PTE. If the aroma is anything to go by, it's progressing extremely well so far.

Everything went as I expected on the first brew day, except the whirlpooling didn't work as well as I anticipated. I just couldn't get a good enough whirlpool going with a spoon alone. Even though I used a hop basket, there was still a ton of matter left behind after I transferred into the fermenter, and I lost probably 2 litres in all the hop mess left behind. As for the hot break, it just got transferred into the fermenter. But I have a Grainfather conical so I could dump the trub after a while.

I bought a Grainfather whirlpool paddle to use for whirlpooling next time. I need to be careful about hot side aeration, but I'm hopeful I'll get a better whirlpool outcome with that.

For the hops, I used a hop basket in the boil. Then a hop bag during whirlpool, which was one of the reasons the whirlpool didn't work properly because the bag stopped the spin. Next time I'm throwing them straight in. I threw the hops straight into primary for dry hopping. Then I've got a hop tube that attaches to the keg lid for dry hopping in the conditioning keg.


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## Malted Mick (19/2/21)

I tried a second whirlpool on my last brew. Normal whirlpool at 90c with the imersion coil chiller/hop bags in and the pump running with the optional whirpool arm. Second at 27c with a paint stirrer and the imersion coil chiller/hop bags removed. The paint stirrer gets a awesome whirlpool, but makes the wort very cloudy as all the trub has been stirred up and back in solution.
Waited a hour for everything to settle out with some gladwrap over the top too keep any nasties out. Had nice clear wort with the egg soup at the bottom. Had to drain off very slowly as the trub is so light and goes with the current to my top offtake point. The bottom offtake has a helix coil which clogs and blocks. 
Result was at least a 3 litre loss in trub. 
All this adds a considerable amount of time to my brew day. Minimising trub keeps me awake at night!


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## Cloud Surfer (19/2/21)

So you were using a hop bag during whirlpool. My one and only experience of this tells me you can't get a satisfactory whirlpool with a hop bag in the way. So I won't be using a hop bag again. I'll just throw the hops straight in the wort once I've quickly cooled it to 80C, whirlpool once then leave it and transfer to fermenter when the break has settled.


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## duncbrewer (22/2/21)

I know your concerns about trub loss. I'm using a Guten 70 litre which is basically the same as Brewzilla 65 I think? 
I changed from the immersion chiller to a counterflow chiller running from the recirculation arm then into the bottom tap with an elbow inside the kettle and a stainless tube bent to be parallel to the wall ( seen unbent in this photo ).
Inside the Guten I have a home made trub trapper and then just lay the helix coil around it as a second ' sieve ', and i get less than a litre of loss 

and very little break or trub transferred

. Though the liquid that the hops soak up is always a definite loss.
Once whirlpooling, cooling and settling has finished I disconnect the recirculation arm and use that to pump across to the fermentation vessel.
Pretty happy with it really and I don't use the hop spider or a hop bag.


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## Cloud Surfer (22/2/21)

That's a very neat way of trapping and collecting your trub. I'm not sure how well that would work for me, as I'm using the false bottom on the BrewZilla, and the trub trapper would have to sit on that.


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## Malted Mick (23/2/21)

duncbrewer said:


> I have a home made trub trapper and then just lay the helix coil around it as a second ' sieve ', and i get less than a litre of loss
> 
> View attachment 119999
> 
> ...


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## duncbrewer (23/2/21)

The Guten didn't come with a false bottom so I had to seek an alternative. But no false bottom does mean I can see what could go in the drain hole rather than finding out once I lift it up or see it in the fermenter. I did find the false bottom on the robobrew worked well but I did have more loss ( left behind ) in the kettle. 
I used to wonder whether a fine mesh dam in a sort of quarter circle ( using same mesh as hop spider ) attached under the false bottom ( probably wired on using those convenient holes) a few cm away from the drain hole would hold back the really fine stuff. 
Never got to try it though, but would if I was still using the robobrew, although it might be a good thing on the side of the trub trapper and would also help it to go in the right position. I might look into that.


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## Cloud Surfer (23/2/21)

Mick, without the false bottom, what do you use to stop trub getting sucked through your pump?

Is there a reason you don’t use it, what’s the advantage?


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## Malted Mick (23/2/21)

I have a modified set up. I do not use the false bottom or overflow pipe. I also block the malt pipe handle holes with plastic plugs and use hop bags. I have never had a pump blockage to date. The break goes through the pump ok, it is grain that will block the pump.
The reason I do not use the false bottom is that the break settles out on top of it. I try to get the break to the bottom below my top offtake point. I have a helix coil slightly stretched on the bottom offtake. I open the top valve first untill it runs dry, then the bottom one. The last stage is a very slow trickle as it is going through the coil. Next step will be the trub dame, which I am going to set up this afternoon. I know some break is not a problem in the wort but I am trying to reduce the amount going into the fermenter.


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## duncbrewer (24/2/21)

Mick I see that the Brewzilla has a slightly different pump intake being raised wheras it's flush on the guten.
How about recirculating through a hop spider to catch some of the break or using a hop bag as a filter, could that work?

The problem is that the break is so soft it doesn't form a decent solid lump and just drifts with the wort.
Bring on the homebrew centrifuge.


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## Cloud Surfer (24/2/21)

Nice setup Mick.


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## Malted Mick (25/2/21)

Cloud Surfer said:


> Nice setup Mick.


It's a research and development exercise for me get the trub/break transfer into the fermenter down to an acceptable level. Equally important for me is keep my brew day simple and efficent time wise. I am not recommending Brewzilla owners punch out a extra take off by any means. I had the same results by using a siphon to take off the high level wort above the break. Next step is to try dunc's trub dam! Will get some good photos of the next brew a hazy NEIPA and post how it goes.


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## Cloud Surfer (25/2/21)

Malted Mick said:


> It's a research and development exercise for me get the trub/break transfer into the fermenter down to an acceptable level. Equally important for me is keep my brew day simple and efficent time wise. I am not recommending Brewzilla owners punch out a extra take off by any means. I had the same results by using a siphon to take off the high level wort above the break. Next step is to try dunc's trub dam! Will get some good photos of the next brew a hazy NEIPA and post how it goes.


I don't plan any major mods to my BrewZilla. I really liked how I had it setup for the first brew. Next time I just want to get a better whirlpool which I think I will with what I learnt from my first go.

I pulled my Pliny The Elder clone out of the fermenter today into keg for another round of hopping. That's 300g of hops I've used now and it smells and tastes like a beautiful hop bomb. I put the hydrometer sample in the fridge and it dropped crystal clear, so I've managed to get all of the trub out of it finally.


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## MHB (25/2/21)

Mick, its really important to understand the difference between Hot and Cold Break.
Its important to keep hot break out of the ferment, cold break on the other hand is (up to a point) beneficial in the ferment. In some beers made from low spec malt or with lots of adjunct (unmalted grain) you can get too much cold break, but lets just say you have to work at it.
Hot break and hop debris settles out pretty quickly, cold break on the other hand is very light and fluffy, it can take days to settle and compact the way hot break will in a matter of minutes.
I think if you did a brew and no chilled rather than using the immersion chiller should let you workout how much to leave in the kettle so your sure the hot break is excluded. Then let the cold break go into the fermenter with your wort you will get the volume you are looking for and the wort quality. Should save a lot of sitting around waiting for somethin to happen that is inherently slow.
Mark


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## WitWonder (2/3/21)

Well my first brew on the Brewzilla 65L was a bit of disaster. Essentially I had very little to no flow through the malt pipe. I (eventually) raised the malt pipe and the only way I could get any sort of flow coming out of it was by scraping grain away from the mesh screen on the bottom of the malt pipe to allow the wort to drain out. I assumed my crush is too fine however I've brewed on a Braumeister for years never had an issue like this (using the same mill). However a quick test with a credit card had the card sliding through the gap in the mill so not sure? Didn't have a chance to test with feeler gauges but will check again later and confirm. I also used a good amount of rice hulls - I had about 4% oats and 8% flaked wheat - which I probably wouldn't have bothered with on the Braumeister but wanted to be cautious. Any ideas for next time? I set the unit up as per the instructions (false bottom in the kettle and screen on the bottom of the malt pipe) with the exception of the top plate as the pipe was too full and I couldn't get it on.

I ended up with about 40L into the fermenter at 1056 so not a complete disaster in the end though probably took me about 2hrs longer than it should have!


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## Malted Mick (2/3/21)

WitWonder said:


> Well my first brew on the Brewzilla 65L was a bit of disaster. Essentially I had very little to no flow through the malt pipe. I (eventually) raised the malt pipe and the only way I could get any sort of flow coming out of it was by scraping grain away from the mesh screen on the bottom of the malt pipe to allow the wort to drain out. I assumed my crush is too fine however I've brewed on a Braumeister for years never had an issue like this (using the same mill). However a quick test with a credit card had the card sliding through the gap in the mill so not sure? Didn't have a chance to test with feeler gauges but will check again later and confirm. I also used a good amount of rice hulls - I had about 4% oats and 8% flaked wheat - which I probably wouldn't have bothered with on the Braumeister but wanted to be cautious. Any ideas for next time? I set the unit up as per the instructions (false bottom in the kettle and screen on the bottom of the malt pipe) with the exception of the top plate as the pipe was too full and I couldn't get it on.
> 
> I ended up with about 40L into the fermenter at 1056 so not a complete disaster in the end though probably took me about 2hrs longer than it should have!


My mill is set at 0.80mm and a credit card is around 0.75mm. Your crush seems very similar. When I mash on my 35L I find it is hands on for the full mash with a combination of lots of scrapping of the malt pipe bottom screen and adjustment of the pump return volume. Hence I do not use the overflow and block the lifting handle holes. I have just set up for a brew tommorrow with a Dunc's Dam, no false bottom. Will take some video of the process, it sounds like your malt pipe screen is blocking. Do you have the double screens on your malt pipe?


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## Cloud Surfer (2/3/21)

WitWonder said:


> Well my first brew on the Brewzilla 65L was a bit of disaster. Essentially I had very little to no flow through the malt pipe. I (eventually) raised the malt pipe and the only way I could get any sort of flow coming out of it was by scraping grain away from the mesh screen on the bottom of the malt pipe to allow the wort to drain out. I assumed my crush is too fine however I've brewed on a Braumeister for years never had an issue like this (using the same mill). However a quick test with a credit card had the card sliding through the gap in the mill so not sure? Didn't have a chance to test with feeler gauges but will check again later and confirm. I also used a good amount of rice hulls - I had about 4% oats and 8% flaked wheat - which I probably wouldn't have bothered with on the Braumeister but wanted to be cautious. Any ideas for next time? I set the unit up as per the instructions (false bottom in the kettle and screen on the bottom of the malt pipe) with the exception of the top plate as the pipe was too full and I couldn't get it on.
> 
> I ended up with about 40L into the fermenter at 1056 so not a complete disaster in the end though probably took me about 2hrs longer than it should have!


I hope you figure this out. I had no issue with circulating through the mash, and my sparge was way too fast through the mash for my liking.

Out of interest how much malt did you use, and what volume of strike water did you use? I was surprised by the 10L of water that’s below the bottom of the malt pipe, so just curious how others are setting it up.


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## WitWonder (2/3/21)

Malted Mick said:


> My mill is set at 0.80mm and a credit card is around 0.75mm. Your crush seems very similar. When I mash on my 35L I find it is hands on for the full mash with a combination of lots of scrapping of the malt pipe bottom screen and adjustment of the pump return volume. Hence I do not use the overflow and block the lifting handle holes. I have just set up for a brew tommorrow with a Dunc's Dam, no false bottom. Will take some video of the process, it sounds like your malt pipe screen is blocking. Do you have the double screens on your malt pipe?


I have the bottom screen on the malt pipe but not the top one - also had the false bottom in there but that wasn't the issue - the issue was the lack of flow out of the malt pipe. Hopefully there's no too much mucking around with stirring etc on brewday - coming from a Braumeister which is set and forget pretty much. No issues with stuck mashes because the wort flows bottom to top not top to bottom.

@Cloud Surfer I used 40L strike water and 12kg of grain


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## MHB (2/3/21)

More to the point its pumped from bottom to top, rather than relying on gravity to create a flow. Pumping generally creates more flow than just gravity.

Mark


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## Cloud Surfer (2/3/21)

WitWonder said:


> @Cloud Surfer I used 40L strike water and 12kg of grain


Good stuff, that’s exactly what I would have used. 2.5L/kg +10L for the volume below the malt pipe.


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## duncbrewer (3/3/21)

I use about 3 litres per kg, I have started to use Glucanase enzyme instead of oat hulls if there is going to be lots of sticky adjuncts, it doesn't add volume to the grain bill. Head retention etc seems fine. 
I do find that I have to start off slow with the flow but come the end of the mash the pump flow is flat out. 
My mill is set to 0.9 mm but it is a Maltzilla and that doesn't force a lot of flour out of the husks. 
Still getting 76% efficiency but tempted to go narrower at least for part of the milling to see if this improves efficiency and slows the sparging down.

Not sure what Mark is referencing pumped from bottom to top, isn't that what happens with the brewzilla?


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## WitWonder (3/3/21)

duncbrewer said:


> Not sure what Mark is referencing pumped from bottom to top, isn't that what happens with the brewzilla?


To clarify, Braumeister pumps from the bottom of the mash tun forcing wort up through the malt pipe and grain bed, it then spills over the top of the malt pipe and back into the mash tun. Brewzilla draws the wort at the bottom and pumps it up via a pipe on the outside of the vessel where it then re-enters the malt pipe back at the top. Thus you don't get a stuck mash (or at least very unlikely to) with a Braumeister but units that behave as per the Brewzilla it is certainly possible as you're relying on gravity for the wort to go back down through the grain bed and potentially the grain bed becoming compacted during the mash recirculation.


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## duncbrewer (3/3/21)

I see so the grains " stay floating " with the braumeister, wheras they are sinking and being washed down with the Brewzilla types. Thank you must look it up.


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## Malted Mick (3/3/21)

duncbrewer said:


> I see so the grains " stay floating " with the braumeister, wheras they are sinking and being washed down with the Brewzilla types. Thank you must look it up.


Exactly as described on my Brewzillia Dunc, hence I have to stir and scrap the bottom during the mash to stop compaction. Doing a Hazy Daisy NEIPA today and all is going well. 30 minutes into the boil! Got the Dunc's Dam fitted, going to be interesting to see how it works.


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## wide eyed and legless (3/3/21)

duncbrewer said:


> I see so the grains " stay floating " with the braumeister, wheras they are sinking and being washed down with the Brewzilla types. Thank you must look it up.


The pump is pretty powerful on the BM the grains are all forced up against the top plates, every 15 minutes the pump stops (pump break) which displaces the grain letting the grain drift down. The pump starts again and all the grain is forced back up to the top plates, effectively stirring, by the movement.


Malted Mick said:


> Exactly as described on my Brewzillia Dunc, hence I have to stir and scrap the bottom during the mash to stop compaction. Doing a Hazy Daisy NEIPA today and all is going well. 30 minutes into the boil! Got the Dunc's Dam fitted, going to be interesting to see how it works.


I would be interested to know if the dam effects the boil, I don't have any problem getting clear wort just using 2 helix. What is left in the kettle I pour into a jug let it settle and put into 1 litre passata bottles after boiling, for using as a starter.









Even though it looks clear there is plenty of cold break in the fermenter, just cant see it unless you cool it further, put a glass of wort in the fridge and you can see it.


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## Cloud Surfer (3/3/21)

duncbrewer said:


> I use about 3 litres per kg, I have started to use Glucanase enzyme instead of oat hulls if there is going to be lots of sticky adjuncts, it doesn't add volume to the grain bill. Head retention etc seems fine.
> I do find that I have to start off slow with the flow but come the end of the mash the pump flow is flat out.
> My mill is set to 0.9 mm but it is a Maltzilla and that doesn't force a lot of flour out of the husks.
> Still getting 76% efficiency but tempted to go narrower at least for part of the milling to see if this improves efficiency and slows the sparging down.
> ...


Do you like your Maltzilla? I was about to buy one.


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## Malted Mick (4/3/21)

Hi WE&L. The dam did not effect the boil, but it was no improvement on my previous set up. The silicon tube is a seal for the bottom of the dam and sits on the bottom of the vessel. Two helix's may be the go, I can fit a second to the top outlet and give the dam a miss.


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## duncbrewer (4/3/21)

Well I've had the Maltzilla for about 8 months now. Got the version with all metal rollers. I think there is or was a version with plastic rollers covered with diamond grit. 

I haven't owned a mill before this and my only experience was with shop milled grain which I found quite variable.

I ordered the 24V power supply with it, this promptly blew up on first turning the maltzilla on. Luckily it came with some crocodile clips and an andersen plug connector. So I just used it by clipping it to an 18v battery which is fine ( see below ) .
I got a refund on the psu so no worries there.

So to usage, I do precondition the grain, just put the grain in a 30 litre storage bin and then spray and mix 2.5% by weight of water. I leave this for about an hour with the bin lid on and have left it longer then mill it.

The hopper is from a 12 litre water bottle and works well, its good that it is easily removed after use and so makes it compact to tidy away. 

I cut a hole in a wooden board to mount the maltzilla. The board is bigger than another 30 litre rectangular storage bin so it rests on top of it. I have it so the motor is on the top of the board it can be mounted the other way up if you want. I would need a deeper bin to do that, it would be a bit quieter inside the box, but overall it is much quieter than drill powered mill or the brewshops SS brewtech mill.
The good thing about the board and mill on box is that it's sealed with the grain falling into the box so no dust, so I use it indoors without worry.
When finished I just flip the mill over and it is inside the box and the "hopper" fits next to it all safe on the shelf.

So does it work, yes, I don't think that the adjustment of the gap doesn't correlate that well with the markings. I'm using it set to 0.75mm which the gap measured appears to be 0.9mm . This is giving a good crush, the grains are really flattened and not chopped up at all. The grain contents are really powdered up but contained, I get a bit of flour but not much. 
When you adjust the gap you adjust it on both sides of the wheel to ensure the gap is uniform across the rollers, I understand this has been an issue with other mills showing a different gap across the rollers which can't be adjusted.
The mill seems to only adjust in 0.25mm increments the way it's intended to be used and is a feature of the adjusters notching and locking with nuts. You can adjust it without taking it apart or using any tools though so you can tune as you go. To get inbetween gaps requires you to use the locking screws on top of the adjuster nurls which is a bit more fiddly, I haven't had to do this though. I'm getting a good extraction and flow on the mash 76 percent brewhouse efficiency and will try a finer gap to see how this affects things.

Occasionally I did get the situation where the non powered roller got stuck due to grain/flour on the roller preventing it turning. I just reversed the polarity of the power which made the roller reverse and this allowed it to clear. Then back to normal. It was more of a problem when I was using a NiCd 18v battery that was very end of life and lacked grunt and I had the gap a bit too wide. 

If I was going to improve it I would supply some instructions, fit a small brush on the underside of the roller ( non powered one ) to knock off any accumulations and have a gate on the hopper so that it could be removed or inserted with grain in.
But I'm happy with it, it's quiet works well, is solid and does the job at a good price unattended so no drill holding etc.

Portly gentleman has a review on his youtube of the Maltzilla .

He also has a video of making a 24v power supply for the Cannular which is much cheaper than the kegland option. 


He just uses the battery method as he likes to mill outside ( cordless ) . I certainly don't need the grain to mill any quicker than it does at the moment with the 18 v battery though I believe it would work quicker. 
Think it's cheaper than some of the other mills supplied with a motor. Coincidentally as I'm typing this Genus brewing have a review of the Blichmann pro mill ( not sure if they bought it so could have bias).




Portly gentleman reviewed the SS brewtech mill and panned it and then returned it. 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua8OUQESAgE


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## Cloud Surfer (4/3/21)

Oh man, you get the award for post of the year. That’s a lot of info and work you went to. Thanks so much. So I’ll be happy to go get a MaltZilla I think. I’ll come back to this post when I get it. Thanks again.


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## duncbrewer (5/3/21)

My pleasure let me know how it goes or if I can help. 

Just noticed I didn't put the link in to Portly Gentleman review of Maltzilla. What a fail by me, back to B+.


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