# Noobie Here



## cavey (3/1/13)

Hi all,
I am new to this site and new to home brewing. I received a DIY coopers kit for Christmas (like many others out there) and just have a couple of newbie questions.
I have done heaps of reading on here, so most of my questions have been answered, thanks!
The kit I received came with the standard lager LME ( is that the right Acronym? <_< ), I also got the Canadian blonde one. Should I go with the lager kit as a first go? Does it matter? I assume I would just swap the malt and yeast that came with the blonde and follow the instructions that came with the kit?
The kit also states that you don't need to sterilize everything the first time you use the kit, just rinse in hot water, should I buy a sterilizing solution and use to be in the safe side?
Lastly, I have read a lot about the fermentation temperature. Most on here seem to say that it should be 18-20 degrees, the kit says 21-27 and some others have said that they found the kit yeast didn't work well at the lower temps and recommended 22-24 degrees? I have a fridge that I can use, so I can set up a thermostats and keep it (hopefully) to whatever temp I want, any thoughts on what would work the best?
Sorry for all the questions, just want to try and get this hobby off to a good start, so I don't stuff it up and get frustrated! :blink: :angry: 
Thanks again everyone, for any help you can give this Noobie.
Cheers
Cavey


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## DU99 (3/1/13)

18-21 is a better temp.the canadian blonde is a good kit to start with all you need is BE1 from cooper's,you should get a reasonable beer.you are asking for trouble if your cleaning and santizing is not up to scratch.you dont what's been in bottles or fermenter even if it's new.location of where you are in this country might help


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## Bridges (3/1/13)

Low cost temp controller as recomended by others on this site, search ahb for stc-1000, and if you know a sparky who can help you out they are excellent and not all that pricey.
Cheers
Lyle


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## Black Devil Dog (3/1/13)

Sometimes it can be confusing when you read all the different opinions on here about what to do and what not to do.

LME = Liquid Malt Extract.

It doesn't matter which one you go with first.

I would use the malt, maybe a small quantity of dextrose if you want.

Use the yeast that came with the kit, you can upgrade the yeast for future brews, but for your first one, go with the kit yeast.

Sanitising your equipment is a good idea, even if it is brand new.

If you can keep your brewing temp in a range of 18 - 22 :chug: , if you have a fridge to maintain a constant temp :drinks: . If you brew at 27 :icon_vomit:


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## DU99 (3/1/13)

Also get a copy Ianh's spreadsheet page 20 it's version 4 post 391


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## wbosher (3/1/13)

The first time I used the new Coopers fermenter, I just rinsed it in hot water with no problems, same with the PET bottles. If you've got some no rinse sanitiser like starsan I highly recommend using it though, so easy to use that it's just not worth the risk.

Throw the instructions away, and go with the advice from the learned brewers here.


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## thedragon (3/1/13)

Cavey

Where are you located? There may be someone on here that lives near you that would be happy to give you a demonstration. We were all new brewers once. I recall my first brew... in the back yard, watching a dodgy YouTube video, a mate on the phone barking directions at me. It could have been so much easier.

Cheers
Daniel


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## soundawake (3/1/13)

The first best purchase you can make is a bottle of Starsan. You can get it from the forum's sponsors. Its a piss easy no rinse sanitizer that doesn't cost that much and lasts almost forever.

Best of luck with your first brew. Keep your expectations in check for the first one. It's only your first of many.


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## Econwatson (3/1/13)

I would sterilise the fermenter if its the first brew. My reasoning isn't necessarily because it might be carrying infection, but it may also carry that "new plastic" smell. I bought a fermenter from Brewcraft and it stank to high heaven until I had sanitised it. Christ knows what my beer would have tasted like if I had not sanitised!


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## cavey (3/1/13)

Hi guys,
I live at Camp Hill; thanks for all the thoughts and advice, it is appreciated! I will keep you posted!
Cheers
Cavey


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## thedragon (3/1/13)

Good luck. Hope it goes well. Ross from CraftBrewer, close to you in Bris, is always helpful.
Cheers


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## petesbrew (4/1/13)

Nice score on the coopers kit. It's the gift that keeps on giving! :icon_chickcheers: 

With the LME,DME,BE1's etc., here's a list of all the acronyms you'll see on this site.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...;showarticle=17

Definitely go with the lager kit first. If you want, you could make this one to the coopers instructions, and then the canadian blonde to the recommendations you'll see on this site, as a comparison.

And yeah, sanitising the kit before use is definitely a good idea.


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## cavey (4/1/13)

Thanks again guys.....lovin the list of acronyms, now I can understand what is going on around here! :icon_cheers:


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## cavey (12/1/13)

Popped the kit into the fermenter tonight. Cooled some water down to about 16 degrees today; so once I mixed the kit and topped up with the cool water, got temp of about 20-21 degrees. I added an American ale yeast(soaked first) I got from craft brewer! Temp should pull back a little and hopefully sit in a range of 18-20 degrees (if my thermostat works properly!)

OG is 1038.

Thanks for all the help from you guys on here.....really helpful in doing my first kit.

Cheers

Cavey


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## cavey (13/1/13)

Hi guys,

Had a quick look in the fridge this morning and brew is flat looking with a tiny bit a yeast looking stuff on the surface. How long does it normally take for the yeast to get going and froth up etc. It only been in for 12 hours.

Thanks


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## m3taL (13/1/13)

Was it a Red Packet of Safale US-05??

sometimes they can take upto 24h to boot into gear, it will be fermenting away relax and resist the urge to play.... i wish i had of done that 
i ususlly do my first SG test after day 4 to see whats going on then if its like 1018 or 1016 i'll give it 48h then test again once its around 1012-1010 give it 24h more test again and presto.....
once you get a few down the novelty wears off to make fast beer then you can focus on making nice beer, i made my first few kits as quick as i could.... and they taste like it too, but very drinkable,

once you get a few under the belt it will all become clearer


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## cavey (13/1/13)

It was a silver packet, just had american ale on it, packed by craft brewer.

Yeah not panicking yet  just trying to understand how it all works. Thanks for the advice!


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## mwd (13/1/13)

I think CB american ale yeast is US05 or very similar. Can take upto 48hrs before you see much froth on the top.


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## cavey (15/1/13)

Threes days in, down to 1022, coming along slowly.

Is there any reason why I can't leave the krausen collar in? There hasn't been a lot of foam to date and I would prefer not to disturb??

Thoughts?


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## wombil (15/1/13)

G'day cavey,
Don't play with it anymore than absolutely necessary while fermenting I'd say.


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## BeerNess (16/1/13)

cavey said:


> Threes days in, down to 1022, coming along slowly. Is there any reason why I can't leave the krausen collar in? There hasn't been a lot of foam to date and I would prefer not to disturb?? Thoughts?


No big deal leaving the collar in, it can be removed to prevent crap falling back into your brew, if the krausen isn't very heavy don't bother imo.

If you do a brew that has heavy deposits i'd say to take it off, some might get knocked in by the lid knocking down with pressure releases. I've not used one of those new kits though, mine are all airlock carboys & buckets.


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## mosto (16/1/13)

Ah, I remember about 12 months ago I was in the exact same position. Got the Coopers DIY kit for Xmas, and thought I'd surf the net for some tips on temp control and homebrewing in general. I came across AHB and read all this stuff about malt extracts, specialty yeasts, kegging and all grain. I thought 'I couldn't be bothered with all that stuff, if I can make decent beer from kits, maybe a few hops, that'll be fine'. I now have a dedicated fermentation fridge with STC1000, have experimented with a variety of different yeasts, malt extracts, specialty grains and hops, won an award at the NSW champs and National champs, and have just finished installing my keg system. I've acquired a 40 odd litre pot, and as soon as the finances allow, I'll be getting the rest of the gear together to do my first BIAB. Be warned, this is a very addictive hobby but a shitload of fun. Good luck with it and keep asking questions, no matter how stupid they seem. You may get the odd smart arse reply, but on the whole this place is a fountain of knowledge.

Cheers,


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## wbosher (16/1/13)

Regarding the krausen collar, just leave it in. I know the DVD that comes with the kit says to take it out after a few days, but I prefer not to play around with it once the wort is in the fermenter. Every time you open it there is a chance of getting an infection, albeit small if careful, but not worth the risk IMO. Once finished after about two weeks, just pop the collar in the dishwasher.

Don't take too many gravity samples, there's no need. Give it a week, then take one, and then again two or three days later. Once FG is reached, leave it there for a few more days. I've found that two to three weeks is ample time, for kit brews, usually two.

Good luck with it mate, and don't expect too much from your first brew. It may turn out great, it may not...but it will probably be fine. 

Just be patient, I know you won't though, nobody is the first time. :lol:


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## carniebrew (16/1/13)

cavey said:


> Threes days in, down to 1022, coming along slowly. Is there any reason why I can't leave the krausen collar in? There hasn't been a lot of foam to date and I would prefer not to disturb?? Thoughts?


Nope, no reason at all. Most FV's don't even have a krausen collar, it's a bit of a gimmick to be honest. Just leave 'er alone.


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## wbosher (16/1/13)

carniebrew said:


> Nope, no reason at all. Most FV's don't even have a krausen collar, it's a bit of a gimmick to be honest. Just leave 'er alone.


I guess it would come in handy if doing a beer with a very active fermentation and LOTS of krausen, there is heaps of space there. Other than that, you're right, a bit of a gimmick.

It does make cleaning the FV a little easier though, as you can just chuck the collar in the diswasher. The bulk of the crap is on the collar leaving the rest of the fermenter pretty clean...except the shit at the bottom.


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## cavey (16/1/13)

Thanks guys.....great advice!


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## cavey (19/1/13)

At 7 days sitting at 1014.... Will give it a few days and check again.


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## _HOME_BREW_WALLACE_ (19/1/13)

which kit did you brew?


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## cavey (19/1/13)

Coopers lager.....


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## wbosher (19/1/13)

That seems a little bit slow, but I wouldn't worry. Most kits that I brewed reached FG in about 5-7 days, but every brew is different.

What temp are you brewing at? I'm guessing the FG should be about 1.008?

If it hasn't moved by the next reading in a few days, make sure it's in the sweet spot (18-22 degrees or thereabouts), and give it a gentle swirl. I think you'll be sweet though  There's no rush to get it out of the fermenter.


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## Bribie G (19/1/13)

The lager is pretty bulletproof - and when I got onto doing partial mashes the lager was always my base kit of choice - also Cerveza and Canadian for lighter coloured beers. When you get a bit more confident a good one to try is two cans of lager. Nothing else, just two cans (called a Toucan on the forums for some strange reason) :lol: - a very tasty brew indeed.


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## Bridges (19/1/13)

Bribie do you use kit yeast with that toucan? Sounds like something I could keep on hand for dad to drink when he visits, Does it give a nice pale lager or does the two kits make it a bit darker, I've been working hard for the last couple of years to convince dad to broaden his horizons a bit. To quote him "crown lager is the worlds greatest beer, Why would I bother with anything else?"


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## Bribie G (19/1/13)

I just used to use one kit yeast as it froths alarmingly unless you keep it well below 20 - colour is a wee bit darker, a bit like Fat Yak in colour. Not too bitter either.


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## cavey (19/1/13)

Yeah fermenting at 18-20 degrees. I also used an American ale yeast kit instead of the one that came with it.


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## cavey (23/1/13)

At 7 days it was at 1014, now day 11 and sitting at 1015?? So over last 4 days no movement? Thoughts?


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## carniebrew (24/1/13)

Put it in the bottle and you're one step closer to drinking it!!


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## wbosher (24/1/13)

carniebrew said:


> Put it in the bottle and you're one step closer to drinking it!!


Hate to say it but you need to be patient here too. You can pop open a bottle and have a taste after about two weeks, but I'd recommend leaving it 3 or 4 weeks. After a couple of weeks it will probably be drinkable...just. After 4, it will be delicious.

Everyone seems to have different opinions here, but I generally leave mine out of the fridge, but somewhere dark, for at least three weeks. Then put in the fridge. I never used to leave it out of the fridge for that long but that seems to give me a much nicer tasting beer. You'll no doubt get some differing opions on this, but each to their own.


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## cavey (24/1/13)

Ok....cool. Thanks guys I will bottle up tonight and go from there.

Cheers


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## carniebrew (24/1/13)

wbosher said:


> Hate to say it but you need to be patient here too. You can pop open a bottle and have a taste after about two weeks, but I'd recommend leaving it 3 or 4 weeks. After a couple of weeks it will probably be drinkable...just. After 4, it will be delicious.
> 
> Everyone seems to have different opinions here, but I generally leave mine out of the fridge, but somewhere dark, for at least three weeks. Then put in the fridge. I never used to leave it out of the fridge for that long but that seems to give me a much nicer tasting beer. You'll no doubt get some differing opions on this, but each to their own.


He's right...but you're new....go on...open a stubby after 5 days and try it. _You know you want toooooooooo_

I just opened my latest Pale Ale after 5 days in the bottle...lots of Nelson Sauvin and Cascade.....mmmm.....I'm ummm errr just testing.....


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## wbosher (24/1/13)

carniebrew said:


> He's right...but you're new....go on...open a stubby after 5 days and try it. _You know you want toooooooooo_
> 
> I just opened my latest Pale Ale after 5 days in the bottle...lots of Nelson Sauvin and Cascade.....mmmm.....I'm ummm errr just testing.....


The only problem I have with opening up too early is you end up drinking it all before it reaches it's best. Did that a couple of brews ago, beer was ok so kept drinking it. The last two bottles had been sitting for about a month were absolutely delicious...then they were gone.


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## cavey (24/1/13)

Lol....that's guys. Bottled them up tonight, ABV is a little low, have learnt a few things for the next brew.

Will have a try in a couple of weeks.......now to start thinking about my second brew!


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## Blitzer (24/1/13)

yeah put in 2kg of dextrose for some abv


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## poppa joe (24/1/13)

Don't take any notice of Blitzer
PJ


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## wbosher (25/1/13)

As someone else mentioned earlier in this thread, get Ian's spreadsheet and have a play around with adding dme, hops etc. If you're really adventurous, maybe even steep some crystal. You'll be amazed how much better it will taste than just using dextrose or brew enhancer.

Obvoiusly concentrate on the basics like temp control and sanitation, but if you got those figured out then go for it.


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## carniebrew (25/1/13)

poppa joe said:


> Don't take any notice of Blitzer
> PJ


Unless of course you wanna get Blitzer'd....


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## kahlerisms (25/1/13)

I'll disagree with the others and encourage you to drink your brew as often as you like. Especially within your first few brews, the more you taste your beer the more you'll understand about each process and how your beer ages. Go nuts.


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## cavey (16/2/13)

Well three weeks later and I have had one of these beers.....not too bad at all! Pretty exciting to be drinking beer that I made and it doesn't taste like crap! Bottling my second in a week or so, a Canadian blonde and am looking to do an IPA next. One of the best things I have done and will save me a fortune ! Thanks for all thr help guys!


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## wbosher (19/2/13)

If you're looking at a kit IPA, I recommend the Coopers one. On their website it's called "Authentic IPA", scaled down to 20L.

Don't know about authentic, but still a very nice drop.


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## carniebrew (19/2/13)

World's easiest IPA....Toucan! 

e.g. 2 cans of Coopers Sparkling Ale, 300gm dextrose into 23 litres = 53 IBU, 5.5% alc, FG 1011.

If you want more mouthfeel (less dry), and would prefer more IBU/less abv...drop the dex, top up to only 20 litres = 61 IBU, 5.2% alc...FG of 1013.


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## NuggetSA (4/3/13)

carniebrew said:


> World's easiest IPA....Toucan!
> 
> e.g. 2 cans of Coopers Sparkling Ale, 300gm dextrose into 23 litres = 53 IBU, 5.5% alc, FG 1011.
> 
> If you want more mouthfeel (less dry), and would prefer more IBU/less abv...drop the dex, top up to only 20 litres = 61 IBU, 5.2% alc...FG of 1013.


What yeast would you use for that Carniebrew? Going to get my second fermenter cracking away this week... I'd forgotten how addictive brewing gets when it starts tasting good


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## carniebrew (4/3/13)

US-05 for me, although recultured yeast from a Coopers bottle would be sweet too....


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## cremmerson (7/4/13)

Carniebrew, can I confirm that your IPA toucan is just the two cans and yeast, with dex as a thinner? Nothing more (aside from water)? Seems a little too simple. Which I like.


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## Yob (7/4/13)

Sorry, but yuck... Not an IPA just an unbalanced bitter brew in my opinion.. IPA's should have a good balance between the malt and the hops which a tucan won't have, never will by itself.


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## Scottye (7/4/13)

cremmerson said:


> Carniebrew, can I confirm that your IPA toucan is just the two cans and yeast, with dex as a thinner? Nothing more (aside from water)? Seems a little too simple. Which I like.


Hey cremmerson
I'd be wary of a two can Sparkling Ale, especially if you haven't by chance sampled the Sparkling kit on its own. To me it is not in the top 10 Coopers kits and for me two cans of it would be simply unpalatable.
Yob sums it up pretty well.
For an IP, from a kit, I'd be looking at a simple one can Coopers IPA, a kilo of LDM, 250g of Victory Malt, 250g of Dextrose, 23 litres and then hops of your choice, I used (St) Ella 10g @ 7mins, 15g @ 3 mins and 25g @ 30mins. I fermented with S04 but if I did it again I would use a liquid English Ale yeast
.


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## carniebrew (7/4/13)

cremmerson said:


> Carniebrew, can I confirm that your IPA toucan is just the two cans and yeast, with dex as a thinner? Nothing more (aside from water)? Seems a little too simple. Which I like.


No easier than 2 cans and yeast, for sure. There's obviously tastier ways to do it, so it's up to you how much you want to balance ease vs end result.

Coopers give a good example under the "Strong" section of their brewer's guild: http://www.coopers.com.au/the-brewers-guild/how-to-brew/strong/authentic-ipa

That brew would give you something like 6% and 45 IBU. Similar BU:GU ratio (.8) as the toucan sparkling ale, so Yob will probably still hate it....but each to their own.


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## wbosher (7/4/13)

> Coopers give a good example under the "Strong" section of their brewer's guild: http://www.coopers.c...g/authentic-ipa


Isn't that _exactly _what I suggested about three weeks ago here?


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## Yob (7/4/13)

carniebrew said:


> Yob will probably still hate it....but each to their own.


cant see a reason not to, it's boring as shit for anyone with a moderate amount of brewing experience, the reviews from that kit Ive read, when I was a forum member over there, indicated it was one of the better kits, sure, but still needed a bit of pimping up with fresh grain and fresh hops, and that doesnt mean half a kg of dex. 

Carnie, Melbourne Brewers have a kit brewing comp every year, Id be happy to enter a bottle for you when it comes up. I'll brew one too but I will make my old partial type recipe and hop additions and see what the judges say....

damn.. that would mean getting another fecking coopers can <_<


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## Scottye (7/4/13)

carniebrew said:


> No easier than 2 cans and yeast, for sure. There's obviously tastier ways to do it, so it's up to you how much you want to balance ease vs end result.
> 
> Coopers give a good example under the "Strong" section of their brewer's guild: http://www.coopers.com.au/the-brewers-guild/how-to-brew/strong/authentic-ipa
> 
> That brew would give you something like 6% and 45 IBU. Similar BU:GU ratio (.8) as the toucan sparkling ale, so Yob will probably still hate it....but each to their own.


Whereas this brew would more than likely be too bitter for me, I recognise that it is exactly what some people want.
Last week I purchased two 500ml bottles of Stella IPA from the Seven Sheds Brewery in Northern Tassie. This thing was as bitter as heel with zero aroma, and to me little taste. However they are making them and have a market for them.

If cremmerson is in this boat then OK, just not for me :super:


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## carpedaym (7/4/13)

VonScott said:


> For an IP, from a kit, I'd be looking at a simple one can Coopers IPA, a kilo of LDM, 250g of Victory Malt, 250g of Dextrose, 23 litres and then hops of your choice...


Have you done this yourself? Do you get much flavour out of the Victory seeing as it's not going to be mashed?


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## Scottye (7/4/13)

Hey carpedaym

Victroy Malt is OK to steep. I didn't use it with my Stella IPA, I used 400g of Crystal Malt. However I used it in my latest Stella driven APA, 150g, and it seems to work well with this hop. This led me to believe that it would be a good match to my Stella IPA recipe. However as I have moved out of brewing with kits I am not in a position to test my theory.


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## bignath (7/4/13)

cremmerson said:


> Carniebrew, can I confirm that your IPA toucan is just the two cans and yeast, _*with dex as a thinner?*_


Common misconception that dex, or simple sugars by their addition, will thin out a beer. It won't.

Now, if you brewed two beers the same but added a high percentage of the overall fermentables as dextrose or plain sugar, and then did the same beer but REPLACED the dextrose/plain sugar with malt (liquid or dry), or grain of the same quantity, then yes the dex version may appear thinner, but dex won't magically thin out a beer by adding to a recipe.

Not trying to nitpick, but it's a relatively common mistake for the new brewer.


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## carniebrew (7/4/13)

Yob said:


> Carnie, Melbourne Brewers have a kit brewing comp every year, Id be happy to enter a bottle for you when it comes up. I'll brew one too but I will make my old partial type recipe and hop additions and see what the judges say....
> 
> damn.. that would mean getting another fecking coopers can <_<


Huh? You lost me on this one...why would you enter a bottle for me into a kit brewing comp? And why would you make a 'partial type recipe' for a kit comp? Is that even allowed?

I think this thread's gotten a bit lost...I thought the request was for a really simple IPA type recipe, someone said "looks too simple, which I like"...so I made a suggestion. I didn't say it would win any comps...of course you can jazz a kit up with a partial mash, steeped grain, small volume hop boils, dry hopping...etc...but it's not exactly 'simple' any more, right?

Sorry if I'm just losing track...I don't use/read AHB all day every day so sometimes I get my threads crossed. I thought this one was about really simple kit brews.


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## Yob (7/4/13)

... So you offer a tucan as a simple recipe? Hmmm.. Dry hopping an apa (or IPA) can is about as simple as it gets with fantastic results (for a new brewer) I would suggest a number of things before a tucan..

And yes to your questions, partials are allowed, from memory you just need to use a kit as a base, it's a good comp. Lots of fun, its pretty informal so no hard and fast rules.


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## carniebrew (8/4/13)

Yep, I suggested a toucan as a simple way to make an IPA, and included a recipe as an example, with a BU:GU of 0.8. You said yuk and told us it would be horribly unbalanced. And now have told us that you have numerous alternative suggestions. But the closest you seem to have come to sharing them is to say we should dry hop an IPA for fantastic results. My turn to say hmmmm...


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## Yob (8/4/13)

I dont think steeping grain is complicated, (makes for a nicer beer) I dont think adding malt is complicated, (makes for a nicer beer) I dont think adding hops is complicated.. (makes for a nicer beer)

I_ *DO* _think a tucan is not the right way to go. (too much bittering without a balance of flavour and aroma hops)

If you think a tucan (as you listed) is a good beer.. *get one judged*... I for one would be happy to make a simple (in my eyes) kit IPA to stand against it.

Simple it may be.. a *decent* and balanced IPA I sincerely doubt.

anyway.. whateve's


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## Scottye (10/4/13)

carniebrew said:


> Huh? You lost me on this one...why would you enter a bottle for me into a kit brewing comp? And why would you make a 'partial type recipe' for a kit comp? Is that even allowed?
> 
> I think this thread's gotten a bit lost...I thought the request was for a really simple IPA type recipe, someone said "looks too simple, which I like"...so I made a suggestion. I didn't say it would win any comps...of course you can jazz a kit up with a partial mash, steeped grain, small volume hop boils, dry hopping...etc...but it's not exactly 'simple' any more, right?
> 
> Sorry if I'm just losing track...I don't use/read AHB all day every day so sometimes I get my threads crossed. I thought this one was about really simple kit brews.


Hey carnie

Looks like I made the exact mistake when I posted to this thread, missed the key term "simple" because I didn't read the full thread.
For a third brew perhaps my Stella IPA is not that simple. However simple IPAs are good, and I have just tapped a keg of Moteuka Slam IPA - a simple recipe that any new brewer could master. I think the Coopers IPA is among their top three kits.


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## cremmerson (5/5/13)

VonScott, not even sure what floats my boat yet. My designed stout is in a holding pattern for two months in the hope bottle conditioning will bring it back to this side of lethal, but a Golden Ale I'm now waiting on is buttery hoppy gorgeous. 

I will try a bitter at some point to round out my education but I think we may be within shouting distance. 

But a great thread here that is making me think about getting a second FV... For science, of course.


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## cremmerson (5/5/13)

And as for the simplicity debate (just read above), I'm loving this thread because I thought a toucan would be simplest but am now happy with steeping and playing with hops. There are some really great suggestions, so thanks all. 

The competitions? Meh. Private consumption for a while yet.


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## Yob (5/5/13)

Comments was more to illustrate the point that a tucan may be 'easy' but doesn't necessarily make for better beer.

Enjoy the smells and processes.


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