# Show me your mashmaster mill and motion dynamics motor setup



## Kingy (23/1/17)

I'm after some pics of your setup of your mashmaster mini mill and MD Motor setup or a link to any build threads. 
I have most of the gear here now and ready to build.
There is a few pics on the MD motor thread but it would take me years to get through that thread. 
I've found a few good setups but there must be more out there.


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## TidalPete (24/1/17)

Adding on behalf of RdeVjun.


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## Mikeyr (24/1/17)

Now that is a nice piece of work and voted #1 best use of a filing cabinet!


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## n87 (24/1/17)

Mikeyr said:


> Now that is a nice piece of work and voted #1 best use of a filing cabinet!


You haven't seen my filing cabinet 
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81138-my-new-brauhaus-equipment/


Also watching this thread for when I get the motor. I have ideas, but inspiration is always welcome.


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## TidalPete (24/1/17)

Bedside table off Gumtree.


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## fishingbrad (24/1/17)

Kingy,
reading the original MD thread is still a good idea. I picked up some pointers there when I was building mine.

Finished mine last year after a long wait for the power supply. I used 25mm steel box welded together and 5mm alloy plate top (pop riveted) to go with the mill. Hardest part is lining up the shafts, however the spider coupler allows some offset.


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## Kingy (24/1/17)

Yea I've read a fair chunk of that over the last 12 months it would be good to have a few pics close together tho. That thread is a monster.
Do you guys still use the shear pin on the mill shaft as well as the split pit on the motor?


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## fishingbrad (24/1/17)

Kingy, the mill shaft is "Keyed" so no pin there. Motor shaft I use a 3.5mm split pin and the spider coupler has a grub screw. cheers.


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## Kingy (24/1/17)

Sorry yea that's I meant,"the key" 
As The key doesn't fit into my coupler the mill shaft is a tight fit into the coupler without the key.


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## fishingbrad (24/1/17)

Kingy, sorry mate, I don't know what coupler you have. I have the cheap china one from fleabay. 1/2 inch to 12mm. - Mashmaster minimill shaft= 1/2 inch. MD shaft = 12mm.


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## RdeVjun (24/1/17)

Thanks TidalPete for posting those pics of our build, its fairly self explanatory from them.
If there's one thing I would change its the drawer rails, they don't take kindly to grain dust and are pretty worthless now, in fact I've removed the drawer altogether and just rest the stockpot handle on the lip or drop into a bucket on the floor.
The MM fluted roller is a cracker and terrific support from the vendor to replace the knurled one which was wearing and not feeding that well. Problem solved, pretty chuffed with the results all round.
HTH!


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## Kingy (24/1/17)

fishingbrad said:


> Kingy, sorry mate, I don't know what coupler you have. I have the cheap china one from fleabay. 1/2 inch to 12mm. - Mashmaster minimill shaft= 1/2 inch. MD shaft = 12mm.


Yea that's what I have, It looks exactly the same. I managed to get it on it was a really tight fit. 
The hardest thing to decide on is weather to build a purpose built mill and enclosure like above pics or build another work bench and mount it to that. Also how to mount the motor. Be good if it was made to suit the height of the mini mill. Anyways a project is always good for the brain except when it's hard to sleep from overthinking it [emoji23]
Thanks for your help


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## claypot (24/1/17)

I'm away from home so cant post pics, but I just used a piece of thick jarrah hardwood, drilled and bolted with shims for alignment. Hopper made of acrylic sheet from recycler bonded with silicone. Mashmaster mill.

I've mounted the power supply separately and plug it in when required. I didn't use the voltage / speed control. For me, I don't think it's required so not worth the trouble or extra space in the plastic enclosure.

I like that this setup doesn't take up much space, power supply fits in hopper when not in use and easily stored .
Sit it on a sturdy bucket plug in and crush, bang on bucket when complete to get flour out and done.

I also used the cheap ali coupling, from memory I think it required drilling out to suit one of the shaft sizes?


Power supply from here, no problem with this seller:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-110-220V-TO-DC-12V-24V-Regulated-Transformer-Power-Supply-For-LED-Strip-Light-/400469998223?var=&hash=item0

Coupling like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12mm-x-12mm-CNC-Flexible-Jaw-Spider-Plum-Coupling-Shaft-Coupler-D-30mm-L-35mm-/301773776472?hash=item46431e6658

Sorry I know you wanted pics, but hope the info is of use.


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## Kingy (25/1/17)

Thanks everyone I've got a few photos saved to my phone from a bit of research that I'll add to this thread incase someone comes looking in the future


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## Kingy (26/1/17)

Can someone tell me what size thread I should get to bolt the minimill down


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## n87 (26/1/17)

I think it's 1/4".
Ivan double check when I get home (I bought a pack of bolts for it a couple of weeks back.)


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## Tony121 (26/1/17)

n87 said:


> I think it's 1/4".
> Ivan double check when I get home (I bought a pack of bolts for it a couple of weeks back.)


Does Ivan mill your grain too? 

Man I need to get me a servant


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## Kingy (26/1/17)

*waiting patiently for Ivan's reply. 
I've emailed frank to but over the years I've noticed it's usually along time between replies. It's ok tho as good things come to those who wait. Patience is the key to life . [emoji120]


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## Judanero (26/1/17)

Here is mine, there are a few things that I meant to do to fix it up:

Square off the top of the hopper, paint it all black, seal the inside of the hopper with epoxy resin..

But that was about four years ago now :lol: 

These are old pics when it was first built, there's now a cover over the control board, and a grain chute ( plastic bag) that secures to the base of the rollers and falls into the collection tub. With the perspex "door" in place there's next to no grain dust that escapes.


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## Camo6 (26/1/17)

n87 said:


> I think it's 1/4".
> Ivan double check when I get home (I bought a pack of bolts for it a couple of weeks back.)


Agree. A couple of holes in mine weren't tapped when I received it so had to run a 1/4" tap through them.


Was gonna post some pics of my setup but Kingy already has!


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## n87 (26/1/17)

Ivan says it's 1/4"(unc by the looks of it)


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## Kingy (27/1/17)

Frank emailed me back straight Away and it's 1/4" unc.


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## n87 (27/1/17)

Kinda makes you wonder when manufacturing is going to catch up and use and start using this new idea of metric measurements.

I was a little shocked when it turned out to be imperial.


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## Kingy (27/1/17)

Got mine up and running , just using a plastic box from Bunnings until I find something more suitable to mount to the wall.


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## Glomp (27/1/17)

n87 said:


> Kinda makes you wonder when manufacturing is going to catch up and use and start using this new idea of metric measurements.
> 
> I was a little shocked when it turned out to be imperial.


Maybe they are looking to expand into the American market. It would make a lot of sense then.

I notice that kegking now supply stuff there.


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## n87 (2/2/17)

I just had a look on the MD website, tossing up as to whether I impulse buy the motor and its out of stock!
Guess that made my decision (and prob the better on at this point) but annoying all the same.


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## BrissyBrew (4/2/17)

Glomp said:


> "Kinda makes you wonder when manufacturing is going to catch up and use and start using this new idea of metric measurements.
> 
> I was a little shocked when it turned out to be imperial."
> 
> ...


The drive shaft on earlier models was 12mm metric, but this caused problems at the time as 1/2" pulleys on the Australian market were the norm not imperial. MD motors were not on the market back them. I have actually considered to go up to the 5/8ths (same thickness as the shoulder on the drive shaft) drive shaft size now that the mill has a 3/8th drill chuck shaft on the other end. But I think 1/2 is still more accessible. The new fluted rollers provide a more stable grist distribution across a larger RPM range, testing was done 220 to 530RPM (yes I have a tachometer on the the test mill). On the knurled rollers slower RPM was way better, high RPMs really smashed malt and created too much flour, the fluted rollers you are only getting 1-2% difference in grist profile at the #100 sieve and pan, and a gap adjustment can easily compensate for that. The need for low RPMs is not as critical as it was with the knurled mills. 

We are looking at the US market in the future. I have actually been considering machining a clean non tapped hole straight though, meaning it will take a metric or imperial bolt though the top securing the hopper and straight though to under the work bench. No tapped aluminium which can easily be cross threaded too. This would make the mill more universal regarding sizes of bolts and probably make it easier for people to drill the mounting holes, e.g. the mill would work as a template for the holes and there would be a little wiggle room to allow for alignment. 

Thanks for you feedback.


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## Damranger (4/2/17)

I've got mine mounted to an Ikea kitchen trolley thingy...cost about $60 from memory. Not a great photo .... 






View attachment IMG_1215.MOV


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## n87 (21/2/17)

BrissyBrew said:


> The drive shaft on earlier models was 12mm metric, but this caused problems at the time as 1/2" pulleys on the Australian market were the norm not imperial. MD motors were not on the market back them. I have actually considered to go up to the 5/8ths (same thickness as the shoulder on the drive shaft) drive shaft size now that the mill has a 3/8th drill chuck shaft on the other end. But I think 1/2 is still more accessible. The new fluted rollers provide a more stable grist distribution across a larger RPM range, testing was done 220 to 530RPM (yes I have a tachometer on the the test mill). On the knurled rollers slower RPM was way better, high RPMs really smashed malt and created too much flour, the fluted rollers you are only getting 1-2% difference in grist profile at the #100 sieve and pan, and a gap adjustment can easily compensate for that. The need for low RPMs is not as critical as it was with the knurled mills.
> 
> We are looking at the US market in the future. I have actually been considering machining a clean non tapped hole straight though, meaning it will take a metric or imperial bolt though the top securing the hopper and straight though to under the work bench. No tapped aluminium which can easily be cross threaded too. This would make the mill more universal regarding sizes of bolts and probably make it easier for people to drill the mounting holes, e.g. the mill would work as a template for the holes and there would be a little wiggle room to allow for alignment.
> 
> Thanks for you feedback.


Hi BB,

Do you have technical drawings of the mill available?
Planning my motorised table and need to compare it to the motor.

Also, I was thinking of putting the mill underneath the table top with the hopper on top. Do you see a problem with this assuming the hole is the same size as the hopper output?


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## Damranger (21/2/17)

BrissyBrew said:


> .... I have actually been considering machining a clean non tapped hole straight though, meaning it will take a metric or imperial bolt though the top securing the hopper and straight though to under the work bench. No tapped aluminium which can easily be cross threaded too. This would make the mill more universal regarding sizes of bolts and probably make it easier for people to drill the mounting holes, e.g. the mill would work as a template for the holes and there would be a little wiggle room to allow for alignment.


 It's a buggar lining things up so yes to this.


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## doglet (10/4/17)

There are lots of good ideas on this site for the mills and this is my interpretation.

I've just finished mounting my mill on a trolley I bought from eBay. It's nice having it in wheels because I can wheel it outside of my brew room when crushing to reduce the dust mess. My electronic scales fit perfectly on it and it's a good height for measuring out the grain bill. 

I used a scrap piece of plywood underneath to give some rigidity because the sheet of the trolley is a bit flimsy and I could see the torque was causing some twisting. The timber will also stop the grain dust sticking to the underside of the trolley due to static charge. 

I need to make a chute now to go into a bucket. Currently I use a box to prop up a plastic pail underneath to reduce the gap under the mill.

Couple of things I learnt were:
- I have the original Motion Dynamics board. There is a jumper on it that you need to remove off you want the switch to work. Otherwise it's always ON. 
- I bought one of the cheap Chinese eBay spiders. 1/2 inch to 12mm. I found I was getting slippage so I roughed up the 12mm rod a bit with a file to get more grip which seemed to do the trick.


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## nosco (8/7/17)

So my planned brew day hasn't got off the ground yet. My mill motor control decided not to work. I did have it wired up with a voltage meter which was totally fkn useless for my needs. So I tried to wire it up as per the MD website diagrams. No luck. I have a sparky mate coming around to have a look. I have the sensor controller. Why is the motor and battery wired around the opposite way on the non sensor compared to the sensor controller?

Crisis averted. Brew day postponed till tomorrow.


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## kingo102 (11/7/18)

Hi all

An old thread, but having some trouble tracking down a keyed 1/2" to 12 mm coupling for the motion dynamics DC motor. Anyone sourced one of these?

Cheers
David


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## Belgrave Brewer (11/7/18)

kingo102 said:


> Hi all
> 
> An old thread, but having some trouble tracking down a keyed 1/2" to 12 mm coupling for the motion dynamics DC motor. Anyone sourced one of these?
> 
> ...


Is it a spider coupling?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12mm-x-...pling-CNC-Stepper-Motor-Coupler-/182023267223


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## Engibeer (5/2/19)

Anyone got a CAD template for a hopper? I've got the perspex hopper and it shits me... only holds about 1.5-2kg by my estimate.


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## Engibeer (22/3/19)

Can someone please measure the height of a mashmaster minimill for me? 

I'm away from home and can't get home to measure mine. I want to design a hopper in CAD while I'm away. I took all the other dimensions I needed before I left. Didn't think I'd need the height.

Planning to make a CAD template and post it publicly for 1:1 printing (bit of a CAD gun and I've got a plotter at work) - planning on making it a slot design like the commercially available perspex mill - so no screws required for assembly, just cut the pieces from a sheet of ~6mm ply and push together!


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## poacher (23/3/19)

Here you go


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## Engibeer (24/3/19)

Thanks poacher. Will post the cad templates for everyone when complete. Almost there.


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## Phoney (29/11/19)

Engibeer said:


> Thanks poacher. Will post the cad templates for everyone when complete. Almost there.



I'm still waiting...


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## wide eyed and legless (29/11/19)

Phoney said:


> I'm still waiting...


So is Diana Ross. Sorry couldn't help myself.


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