# Turning A Keg Into Fermenter



## captain_booze (26/3/05)

i found a thread about this somewhere on the site but it didn't really relate specifically to my situation so i decided to start new one.

i've got a 50 litre keg with the top cut out of it (hole about 35cm diameter) and am interested in converting it to a fermenter. i saw a perspex thing you can buy that attatches to the top but it was about $80 or something.

the keg also has a tap in it at the bottom similar to a plastic fermemter so thats why i think it'd make a good fermenter

any cheaper ways. the only thing i can think of is buying some perspex and making something
thanks


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## big d (26/3/05)

if my memory serves me correctly i think gerard was going to post some pics of some kegs as fermenters.apparently they look real good and will no doubt give any interested people some ideas.
just wish i could remeber the posting title.

cheers
big d


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## dicko (26/3/05)

Hers a pic someone posted earlier on this subject.


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## captain_booze (26/3/05)

yeh that one on the left is what i need. but probably expensive.
anyone know where to get it or something similar


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## PeterS (26/3/05)

dicko said:


> Hers a pic someone posted earlier on this subject.
> [post="50813"][/post]​



I am also interested in this. I must say however, how many commercial kegs are floating around that remains the property of the brewery. They seem to fell off the back of their trucks..

Keep on Brewin'
:chug:


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## captain_booze (26/3/05)

indeed


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## pint of lager (26/3/05)

The cheapest way is to pull the dip tube out and get a bung to fit the opening. Or, you can anglegrind the neck off flush with the top and fit a bung to this opening. 

To clean it use napisan for a long soak. If you don't feel confident about napisan, which will do the job, you can extend the handle on an old bottlebrush, bend this up and clean with it. Or, use a high pressure cleaner.

To get the beer out, use a siphon with a solid stem.


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## dicko (26/3/05)

Hi Peter Shane,
I agree that many people use kegs for different reasons.
I have even seen them for farm mailboxes.

I think if you have a close look at the pics you might see that appears that they are from o'seas or at least they look that way to me.

There was a guy on here not long ago offering 50 litre kegs from o'seas to any who wanted to purchase them.
All quite legal - I believe.

Cheers


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## captain_booze (27/3/05)

unfortunatly the opening on my keg is too big for a bung, similar to the left picture above.

ill try and make something though


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## captain_booze (16/4/05)

We'll, i successfully turned the keg into a fermenter and it worked great. had to modify the fridge a little to get in in though. will post some pictures when i get a chance


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## kman (16/4/05)

id love to see the pics, was it very hard to do? work well? easy to clean? other questions?


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## vlbaby (16/4/05)

that keg fermenter idea is a winner i reckon.
i think the clear plastic lid looks the best. I like to able to see the beer as its fermenting. the bung idea is ok i guess if you dont mind brewing blind.

i'm thinking it wouldnt be too difficult to rig something up like that. perspex is available fairly easily, and i remember seeing somewhere a type of rubber seal that clips over a sheet metal edge. Maybe add some clips or screws to fasten the perspex on, and it should be just as good.
The best thing about this idea i think is that you can reuse peices of equipment. eg use the keg first as a HLT, then later in the brew it becomes you fermenter. You wont even have to sterilise it as it has had boiling water in it all day. BRILLIANT!

vlbaby.


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## Wortgames (16/4/05)

Here's another method of securing the perspex which looks like it might be a better way to do it:


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## vlbaby (16/4/05)

I like the look of that one. Looks like it would be simple as to do. Cant quite see how the lid is sealed. It almost looks like it isnt.
I think this is gonna be my new fermenter, just have to check it fits in my brew fridge.

vlbaby.


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## big d (16/4/05)

mmmmm can see it now in the cub board room meeting.
look at what these people are doing to our kegs.
covering them in stout foam.and other unmentionable things.

keep em guessing.cover the names before naked pictorials expose the truth of what we get up to.
btw love the pic

cheers
big d


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## Hoops (16/4/05)

There we go Dave, I've edited the photo to fix the problem.
Not too hard guys, I just used PAINT to do a quick dodgy job.

Hoops


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## vlbaby (17/4/05)

I actually picked up a keg recently, semi-legit ( excuse spelling ), from the local tip. Asked the guy if i could buy/ take it, picked it up for $20, and as a bonus the top had already been cut out. Would've payed $20 just to have the hole cut.
Happy camper here  

vlbaby.


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## Wortgames (17/4/05)

vlbaby - I think the perspex has some foam rubber attached to it. You could get a cheap closed-cell foam camp mat from Rays Outdoors (about $5 - the same thing in Clarke Rubber would probably cost about $120...) and cut out a ring to fit.


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## captain_booze (4/5/05)

I finally took a picture of my keg/fermenter set up. 
the middle section comes off and is being held in place by two bent strips of alluminium. i have a bung in the hole in the top of the middle section and a hole through the alluminium strips so the air lock goes through the allumium into the bung. there's a rubber seal sealing the top which i picked up at a homebrew place in melbourne.

for most kegs you'll simply need the bung though. i also have a tap in the bottom of the keg for easy bottle filling.

even though that looks like the CUB logo on the side........it's a miss type

perspex would be great so i could see inside, but i don't really mind brewing blind. finshed my first batch in this fermenter and it came out great. no leaky seal. had to make a few modifications to the fridge for it to fit in though.

also sorry for the blurry photo


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## Pumpy (4/5/05)

has anyone considered how heavy the kegs are to lift full ,why bust your back lifting it to drain into the secondary or to bottle when a nice light plastic bucket will do .

You cant claim compo with home brew you know .

Pumpy


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## pint of lager (4/5/05)

Two person lift works. A trolley makes it easy to shift around.

A pump could come in handy too, a self priming pump.


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## ODDBALL (4/5/05)

I am going to keep my eyes open around the back of the local pubs, I want one of those. 

I would not take one without asking of course. h34r:


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## Pumpy (4/5/05)

Think logically guys it is not a feasable option like POL say two man lift or forlift .

it will cost you more to convert it than to but a plastic fermenter believe me Pumpy


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## Wortgames (4/5/05)

Or there's this...


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## Pumpy (4/5/05)

What the !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pumpy


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## ODDBALL (4/5/05)

Wortgames said:


> Or there's this...
> 
> View attachment 2569
> 
> [post="57522"][/post]​


Now that is a work of art!


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## sosman (4/5/05)

captain_booze said:


> ... but i don't really mind brewing blind. [post="57496"][/post]​


I have tried to cut down on the booze while brewing, stuffed up too many hop additions and always forget the irish moss.


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## deadly (4/5/05)

Hi
Heres mine a christmas pressie from the father in law!!!


Admin Edit - Doc: Removed double pic post


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## deadly (4/5/05)

sorry bout the double pic -its my first time :huh:


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## Doc (4/5/05)

My god Deadly. What is the capacity of that.
Lifting that would be a problem.
But ooooh so niiceee and shinnney.

Doc


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## Guest Lurker (4/5/05)

ODDBALL said:


> Now that is a work of art!
> [post="57528"][/post]​



THIS is a work of art for lifting purposes.


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## big d (4/5/05)

fair bit of relabelled fosters in the back ground there deadly
top looking fementer there btw.

and if it looks shiny stuff the weight factor.its just another homebrew hurdle to overcome.  

cheers
big d


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## deadly (4/5/05)

Its a standard 50l keg i dont lift it just dump everything in from the brew pot


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## barfridge (4/5/05)

hehe, I was wondering how long it would take until GL's OH&S hazard appeared in this thread.


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## pint of lager (4/5/05)

That keg looks truely awesome. My only comment, get rid of that plastic tap.


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## deadly (4/5/05)

Thanks 
i have been looking around for a suitable tap (i dont think the plastic suit it either)but arent having much luck any suggestions would be appreciated


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## pint of lager (4/5/05)

A nice stainless steel ball valve would go well. Either welded in, or use some adapters to fit the thread already in the keg. The problem with taps in such nice big fermenters, they are vulnerable to bumping.


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## Batz (4/5/05)

That is one nice looking s/s fermenter !

Batz


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## Vlad the Pale Aler (4/5/05)

whie we're on a lifting hijack, how about this


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## ozbrewer (5/5/05)

here are some peices that i found, now that is pretty steal


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## warrenlw63 (5/5/05)

One way to overcome the weight problem of a full keg fermenter would be sitting it in the fermentation fridge/cabinet/area or whatever the brewer uses. Keeping it high enough to rack to secondary or keg when fermentation has finished.

For example a reinforced shelf higher on the fridge or having the fridge somehow set higher off the ground.

When the boil is is finished brewday. Those lucky buggers who own March pumps :super: could maybe pump from the boiler through the C/F chiller to the fermenter. This would negate lifting a S/S keg with 40 odd litres of wort.

However requires a $260 March pump. (Still working on SWMBO). My brewing wish list is a little on the high side at the moment.


Warren -


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## ozbrewer (5/5/05)

warrenlw63 said:


> (Still working on SWMBO). My brewing wish list is a little on the high side at the moment.
> 
> 
> Warren -
> [post="57599"][/post]​



When you work out how to do it, let us all know will ya?, i tried to convince SWMBO that she needs 2 for her garden water feature.....didnt work


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## Guest Lurker (5/5/05)

Vlad the Pale Aler said:


> whie we're on a lifting hijack, how about this
> [post="57571"][/post]​



Sorry Vlad, its a nice try, but it does require a little physical exertion. How can you compare that to
1) While holding large glass of beer in left hand, turn tap on with right hand
2) Keg goes up
3) While holding large glass of beer in right hand, open second tap with left hand
4) Keg goes down
(Hard hat and steel cap boots optional)


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## Darren (5/5/05)

ozbrewer said:


> warrenlw63 said:
> 
> 
> > (Still working on SWMBO). My brewing wish list is a little on the high side at the moment.
> ...




Could try, 
"My back is hurting ALOT" after brewday. 
"Gee I would hate to stuff it up for good".
"You know for around $300 I wouldn't have to worry about it again"
"At work it is the law that pumps are to be used for his type of lifting"
Worth a try!


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## warrenlw63 (5/5/05)

Anyone thought of these?

Available at a lot of winemaking suppliers. Not sure of the price. Would say $$$$ though.

Here's one place.

http://www.arblack.com.au/products.asp?pg=2&section=storage

Warren -


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## warrenlw63 (5/5/05)

Darren said:


> "Gee I would hate to stuff it up for good".
> "You know for around $300 I wouldn't have to worry about it again"
> "At work it is the law that pumps are to be used for his type of lifting"
> Worth a try!
> [post="57606"][/post]​



Yeah. Goodluckwithit :lol: 

My SWMBO would just say. Well, give up brewing if it hurts that much.

Warren -


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## Stagger (5/5/05)

I don't see the point in an air lock, my set up is a round hole cut in the top with a perspex lid machined up and sits on a lip. I have no air loc and never had any trouble at all. When welding in the tap i siver solder it's clean and strong.

Stagger


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## FNQ Bunyip (5/5/05)

Stagger I to have been an open brewer for quite a few years ,how ever I recently lost a brew to an infection and have just driled a 12mm hole for an airlock in my perspex lids . I got new airlocks and gromets and only just finished putting on a stout and a blonde. heres hopeing all gos well ..... I made an O'ring up out of some 8mm irigation tube but I suspect that it is a bit firm , will look around in town for other softer materials to use ..

Cheers bunyip


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## aspro (21/8/05)

Gday

All your 50 litter keg fermenters are great think Ill make one , just wondering if you can fit a double brew in there or is there not enough head space


CHEERS


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## Fingerlickin_B (31/10/05)

aspro said:


> just wondering if you can fit a double brew in there or is there not enough head space
> [post="73116"][/post]​



I'll let you know soon  :beer: :chug:  

PZ.


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## kirem (1/11/05)

Now that I have access to SS welders and parts again, I have been thinking about plasma cutting the bottom out of 50L keg and replacing it with a conical bottom.

For a lid I thought about a using the cut out bottom, cleaned up. Plasma cut a matching hole in the top, attach the cleaned up bottom piece via hinge or similar and put a rubber seal around the hole with a screw down hatch. Perhaps put a pressure relief valve in the lid.

Could even use a perspex lid so I can see whats going on inside. Some square tube in tube adjustable legs welded on the side and I think we have it.

Only thoughts at the moment, but definately going to give it a go. stay tuned. I'll talk to the welders.

K


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## sosman (1/11/05)

kirem said:


> I'll talk to the welders.
> [post="87472"][/post]​


My welder doesn't talk back. Come to think of it, none of my tools do.

BTW my fermenter just has the lid loose on it these days. No more broken wrists trying to loosen a wedged lid. I can live without the comfort of a bubbling airlock.


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## Tony (1/11/05)

not enough head space for me.

I actually brew 50 liter batches in a 60 liter plactic firmenter.

I use one of these 50 liter kegs as a "keg" so not enough room.

maybe an old 18 gallon job but the weight of it. I agree with pumpy. 

50 liters in a PVC firmenter is heavy enough!!!

cheers


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## Fingerlickin_B (1/11/05)

Got a lid sorted for my keg fermenter...thanks to the old saucepan that left it's lid hiding in the back of the cupboard when thrown out  






Now I just need to find/modify/fabricate an o-ring that'll fit snugly inside the SS rim...no problem :super: 

PZ.


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## Doc (1/11/05)

Hey FB,

I think you need to find out why Internet Explorer is trying to act as a Server 

Doc


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## Fingerlickin_B (1/11/05)

Doc said:


> I think you need to find out why Internet Explorer is trying to act as a Server
> [post="87522"][/post]​



Due to the "  " I'm not sure how to take that comment h34r: 

PZ.


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## kirem (1/11/05)

Sosman,

I'm not concerned about bubbling airlocks. But have heard about fermenting under pressure and would like to have the ability to explore this.

Your welder doesn't talk to you, mustn't be a WIA then.

K


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## Fingerlickin_B (1/11/05)

kirem said:


> But have heard about fermenting under pressure and would like to have the ability to explore this.[post="87540"][/post]​



What have you heard? 

Advantages? 

Disadvantages? 

I'm interested to know  

PZ.


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## kirem (1/11/05)

I have read recently it is something they do when brewing Kolsch. :unsure: 

I will try and find the source.

It is not the only reason I want to build this fermenter.

K

here it is here;
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.ph...topic=4187&st=0

I have read elsewhere as well.


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## Fingerlickin_B (1/11/05)

I'd imagine that the temperature would not drop as easily using this "under pressure" method too? <_< 

PZ.


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## kirem (1/11/05)

and from Dr Cone http://consumer.lallemand.com/danstar-lalv...nightyeast.html

Stirring in normal gravity decreases ester production. Stirring in high gravity increases ester production. CO2 pressure in early fermentation decreases ester production. Taller fermenters produce less esters than short fermenters. High temperature early in fermentation decreases ester production. High temperature later in fermentation increases ester production. Low pitching rate can result in less esters.


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## Judanero (26/11/14)

Necro alert.

I'm about to cut the top out of a 30L keg so that it can take a corny lid, was thinking that I should mostly fill it with water to reduce the chance of sparks damaging the inside of the fv?

Is this just being paranoid?

Cutting is happening tomorrow morning so any input welcome.


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## Mr B (26/11/14)

I wouldnt worry. Try to use a cutting disk that hasnt cut mild steel though if you can.


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## Judanero (26/11/14)

That wouldn't be a problem, I've got a few virgin disks. Also toying with the idea of using the dremel-even though it takes a little longer it makes nice neat work.

Or.. would waiting to plasma cut it be better?


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## Mr B (26/11/14)

I've cut with a grinder, no problems, take a couple of rounds to break through to get a neater circle, don't go straight through at once.

If you have the patience, a dremel would take a little less metal than a 1mm grinder disk, but doesn't sound like an issue as you don't want to reuse the lid as a lid.

I've heard plasma leaves hard melted bits under the lip, doesn't sound as good.

A loop of string around the post and a marker pen makes a nice round circle mark.


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## Online Brewing Supplies (26/11/14)

Judanero said:


> Necro alert.
> 
> I'm about to cut the top out of a 30L keg so that it can take a corny lid, was thinking that I should mostly fill it with water to reduce the chance of sparks damaging the inside of the fv?
> 
> ...


No its a very good idea, one I recommend always.


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## keifer33 (26/11/14)

I've got a 30lt keg sitting here waiting to be re-purposed and considered cutting for a corny keg lid. I did a bit of searching and found a guy who cut the bottom of the keg as it is flatter and makes for a better seal of the lid - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/diy-chilled-conical-keg-fermenter-123770/

You can just get a few tri clover fittings and attach those to the coupler section to seal it/have a ball valve on it.


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## Online Brewing Supplies (26/11/14)

keifer33 said:


> I've got a 30lt keg sitting here waiting to be re-purposed and considered cutting for a corny keg lid. I did a bit of searching and found a guy who cut the bottom of the keg as it is flatter and makes for a better seal of the lid - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/diy-chilled-conical-keg-fermenter-123770/
> 
> You can just get a few tri clover fittings and attach those to the coupler section to seal it/have a ball valve on it.


 :icon_offtopic: I will swap you for a 50L if its a type A keg and you want something bigger.
Nev


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## Judanero (27/11/14)

keifer33 said:


> I've got a 30lt keg sitting here waiting to be re-purposed and considered cutting for a corny keg lid.
> 
> You can just get a few tri clover fittings and attach those to the coupler section to seal it/have a ball valve on it.


I should have clarified a bit better, that is exactly what I'm doing.. I'll put a pic up when it's finished. :icon_cheers:


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## JWB (27/11/14)

The easiest way is to use glad wrap or similar. I made a large rubber band to go around the outside with a bungy cord.

Just put glad wrap over the top and secure with rubber band. put a pin hole in the glad wrap to let the gas out. it also lets you see the ferment without taking the lid off..


Cheers
JWB


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## keifer33 (27/11/14)

Online Brewing Supplies said:


> :icon_offtopic: I will swap you for a 50L if its a type A keg and you want something bigger.
> Nev


Was hoping to keep the volume a little smaller but thanks for the offer


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## Judanero (27/11/14)

So I marked the corny lid on a bit of paper, cut out the template and drew onto the top (bottom) of the keg.

Filled keg with water and then cut out the hole on the keg using a reinforced cutoff bit for the dremel. I went through two disks to complete it.

Used a brush bit to clean up the edges but will probably give it another couple goes to really make sure everything is smooth as.

With the lid on and the ball valve open it held all the water in so I'm fairly certain it's got a good seal.. as soon as I lifted the pressure release valve all the water flooded out.

Drilled a hole for the airlock grommet which perfectly fit my thermowell (think it's a 14" one from brewershardware- can't really remember the length)

When pushed fully in it sits about 3 cms above the ball in the valve.


The milk crate stand is pretty ghetto but does the job well! B)


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## Tilt (27/11/14)

Thats a sweet looking fermentor Judanero. 
Would you mind showing a pic or two of the fitting you've attached to the keg outlet? 
Very interested in what you've done with the triclovers etc. to attach the ball valve and barb fitting. 
Also where did you get hold of the fittings?


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## Judanero (27/11/14)

Yeah no problems mate, I'll take some pics tomorrow and put them up.

I got the 2" ball valves from aliexpress, from memory they were about $40-$50 each delivered, the clamps were from either eBay or aliexpress, but I got the silicon seals from brewers hardware when I ordered the thermowells (and trub filter).

I honestly can't remember where I got the barbs but I'll see if I can go through my emails to check it out.

I did look at getting an end cap reducer to change it from a 2" to a 1" but the cost was prohibitive and I wanted to keep the whole thing as short as possible.


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## keifer33 (27/11/14)

Looks great mate. Mine is now on the list of jobs over the festive break.


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## Tilt (28/11/14)

Thanks mate- keen to see the pics to make sure I order the right bunch of gear. I know you wanted to keep the setup short, but did you consider putting a short sight tube in before your ball valve.


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## Judanero (28/11/14)

Hope the pics help mate, no I didn't consider a sight glass between the ball valve and keg... I want my yeasties to party in the dark, and there's not much clearance left as is with the milk crate.

My configuration is two 2" clamps, two 2" Silicon gaskets (recessed), 2" ball valve and a barb.








NB- When I turn my other 30L keg into a FV I'll be using black milk crates for both of them, to keep it professional ghetto. B)


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## jonnir (28/11/14)

Any reason you went a 2" valve instead of say a 3/4" valve?


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## Judanero (28/11/14)

jonnir said:


> Any reason you went a 2" valve instead of say a 3/4" valve?


Yeah because the opening for the keg fits a 2" clamp perfectly, so it takes a 2" ball valve without the need for a reducer, if you went a 3/4" you'd need a reducer (end cap or concentric).


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## Maheel (28/11/14)

you can get a 2" triclover end cap with a threaded nipple welded on in various nipple sizes

i have one 2" to 1/2 nipple

bit like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-DN50-Sanitary-Male-Threaded-Pipe-Fitting-to-TRI-CLAMP-OD-64mm-Ferrule-BSPT-/130798935411?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Farming_Agriculture_Farming_Agriculture_Equipment&hash=item1e74395d73


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## Tilt (29/11/14)

Thanks again for the photos. Simple and effective just how I like it. You've inspired a project in the new year. Cheers.
Yeah, black crates would be the go for sure- über technical to match the triclover bling.


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## Judanero (14/2/15)

Bit of an update to this project, the gas disconnect was a tight fit into the top of my fridge, so I removed the gas post and rigged a blow off tube..


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## Judanero (14/2/15)

And built up this little add on to my oxygen jig... got a two valve gas connection, one goes to a stone that I can put into flasks or what not, the other is a stone connected to a 2" tri-clover fitting.

This means I can pump O2 up through the wort from the bottom before pitching the yeast, and I'm even toying with the idea of leaving it in there for 24 hrs to add a little more O2 after 12hrs for bigger beers, or potentially for beers known to stall.

Has anyone tried this before and did it work/encounter problems? The continued in place aeration bit I mean..


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