# How Many Fridges Can You Run From A 15a Circuit?



## Bribie G (7/7/11)

I currently run 4 fridges off one circuit along one side of the garage, not all firing up at the same time. So far I have:


A big regular fridge freezer as per your kitchen.
A kegmate always on at 2-8 degrees
A kegmate (fermenter fridge) which is on either at ferm temp on fridgemate, or crashed down to -1 in "native mode" for up to a fortnight.
An old bar fridge (fermenter fridge) which is used occasionally in the summer on fridgemate and typically run mid-teens

So far no problems
However my stepdaughter has now given me a good old fridge only with a little internal icebox at the top which I intend to use for a few months a year at cold fridge temp to hold bottles of beer for comps. 


Do you think I'm pushing it running 5 fridges, although the likelihood of them all drawing power simultaneously is not high but could possibly occur ?


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## booargy (7/7/11)

15A is 3600W roughly Each fridge has 720W. I reckon the kegmates would use about 300W at most. she'll be right. but i'd get a cheap watt meter and see what each one uses


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## RdeVjun (7/7/11)

Bribie G said:


> Do you think I'm pushing it running 5 fridges


Saving the best part for the end, eh? Like your style BribieG! 
And here was me thinking that 3 fridges was tearing the fork out of it, not so much in Amps, but all those fridges! :beerbang:


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## peaky (7/7/11)

I have a large fridge full of longnecks at 4 degrees (always running), 2 fermenting fridges (usually at ale temps), a bar fridge for starters, a 275 litre deep freeze (always running), and on brew day a 30L urn running from a 10amp circuit. Haven't popped a curcuit breaker yet but I do sometimes have nightmares of the brewery bursting into flames.......


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## DU99 (7/7/11)

most fridges should have plate on back of fridge of what they consume..you can do the math's.


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## Bribie G (7/7/11)

DU99 said:


> most fridges should have plate on back of fridge of what they consume..you can do the math's.


 

You want me to pull all those fridges away from the wall and get down on my knees?  
Oh the humanity. 

How did I end up with so many fridges. And I only paid for one of them. :huh:


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## QldKev (7/7/11)

Bribie G said:


> I currently run 4 fridges off one circuit along one side of the garage, not all firing up at the same time. So far I have:
> 
> 
> A big regular fridge freezer as per your kitchen.
> ...





booargy said:


> 15A is 3600W roughly Each fridge has 720W. I reckon the kegmates would use about 300W at most. she'll be right. but i'd get a cheap watt meter and see what each one uses




I'm not too sure about these 720W fridges, that must be one big sucker.

The standard full size household fridge is up to 150w, with the smaller kegmates at just under 100w. 

My entire household power circuit runs from 1 x 16amp power fuse. 
(Lights, stove, HWS etc separate)
I have
420L fridge in main house (modern style)
420L upright freezer in games (modern style, matching main fridge)
bar fridge in store room (fairly modern)
bar fridge (number 2) in store room (fermenting fridge for lagers, really old shitter)
about 450L keg prep fridge out back patio with hops etc (really old)
320L fermenting fridge out back patio (really old)
kegmate fridge in office (fairly modern)

yes 7 fridges,

And somehow manage to run the rest of the house from that same 1 circuit. 

The start up current is a bit more, but the fuses will allow that no problems.

So yes, you will be ok.

QldKev


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## _HOME_BREW_WALLACE_ (7/7/11)

Bribie G said:


> I currently run 4 fridges off one circuit along one side of the garage, not all firing up at the same time. So far I have:
> 
> 
> A big regular fridge freezer as per your kitchen.
> ...




Hey mate,

on 1 circuit, I have:

1x Dryer
1x Washing Machine
1x HLT/Kettle (CB 2400W Element)
3x Fridges (1 food, 1 Beer and 1 fermenting)
1x Chest Freezer
15,000 TV's, Blu-ray players, lava lamps, stereos/sound systems :unsure: 

The 3 fridges and Chest Freezer are always on, the washing machine is always on (3 Kids...... Yep) Dryer is on during the wet days/season (sometimes with the washer aswell)
HLT/Kettle as per weekends/days off

Power trips occaisonally, when the dryer, washer, and Kettle are on........

I'm getting my sparky mate to throw a couple of extra 10A circuits onto my powerboard (couple of powerpoints beneath it) So i can run a fermenter fridge and my HLT off it.


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## Bribie G (7/7/11)

Thanks guys - I'll crank her up tomorrow.


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## hotchilli (7/7/11)

Bribie G said:


> I currently run 4 fridges off one circuit along one side of the garage, not all firing up at the same time. So far I have:
> 
> 
> A big regular fridge freezer as per your kitchen.
> ...



I reckon you can handle a lot more than 5 fridges. As booargy says, 15A is 3600 watts (240 volts * 15 amps = 3600 watts). Modern fridges are quite low power consumers. 

I have 2 fridges - one is 165 litres and draws 150 watts, the other is 350 litres and draws 230 watts. Of course the fridges only draw power when the compressor is running. So, total of my two fridges when both compressors are running is a mere 380 watts. You've got almost 10x this amount.

Check the nameplate of each power consumer on the circuit and add 'em up. Alternatively, get one of these and measure the actual power load:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

(They're also available from bunnings for $25)


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## kelbygreen (7/7/11)

well I put a current device on my kegerator and by the rate we was charged almost a year ago it cost me about 7.5 cents a week to run from memory so they musnt come on to much. my bills since having 2 fermenting fridges and a keg fridge havnt gone up noticeable as now we have a dishwasher wich we didnt have last year and its been hotter and colder then last year so heating and cooling contributes. But I dont think you have a drama with the power till they blow. If your gears in the shed see if you can isolate it without running more wires so the shed has its own feed rather then running off the house. As if you got 5 fridges and a urn running and misses goes OH! i might put the dishwasher on and cook some toast and heat bake beans in the microwave you may be in some trouble


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## komodo (7/7/11)

My 500L chesty recently died - I've noticed a MASSIVE drop in power consumption since it died. 
I reckon with what I'll save off the electricity bill a NEW chest freezer (or maybe a kegmate) will be mine by the time the next bill comes in. 

Older fridges and fridges on their way out seem to use a lot more power than the newer fridges use. I still think fridge design has a long way to go but meh. 
As for your fridges provided they arent as old as the arc you should be fine.


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## Peteoz77 (7/7/11)

I havethe following all running on one extension cord:

260 litre chest freezer with temp control
480 Litre Fridge with temp control
Pigeon Pair Fridge and Freezers, both on temp controls
68cm TV
Set Top Box
Grain mill with 1 3/4 hp Motor
40 litre Urn

Of course all of are never on at the same time, but the 10 amp breaker has never kicked.

I will soon be getting 6 power points installed on a separate circuit, so they never will be a problem.


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## Parks (8/7/11)

The only thing that would be a killer is if all the compressors decided to kick in at the same time. I never realised just how much power they drew on start until we had to run the fridge and freezer on a (2000W) generator for a few days.

She kicks and splutters a little bit when they start!

But, the chances of more than one trying to start at a time would be slim to none.


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## Nick JD (8/7/11)

Komodo said:


> My 500L chesty recently died - I've noticed a MASSIVE drop in power consumption since it died.
> I reckon with what I'll save off the electricity bill a NEW chest freezer (or maybe a kegmate) will be mine by the time the next bill comes in.
> 
> Older fridges and fridges on their way out seem to use a lot more power than the newer fridges use. I still think fridge design has a long way to go but meh.
> As for your fridges provided they arent as old as the arc you should be fine.



I recently read a good article about just this. There was a big change in fridge design about 10-15 years ago IIRC (I'll try to find the article), and what it said was that if you're running an old fridge for 3 years, the juice it uses is equivalent to buying a new one, including the new one's running costs for those three years. 

So you can run an old fridge for three years; or run a new one and get it for free, essentially. 

Basically, old fridges are a false economy. You just don't see how much they cost in real terms.


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## mxd (8/7/11)

I just keep using these 10amp to 50 amp converters and there haven't let me down


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## dent (8/7/11)

> But, the chances of more than one trying to start at a time would be slim to none.



It is very likely if the power goes out for a while and they warm up, then they probably all start at once when the power comes back on. I think that is part of the reason for the compressor delay time on fridgemate controllers and the like, so you can stagger them.

Pretty much all domestic power circuits are 'maximum demand by limitation' anyhow as far as I know (I'm no housebasher) so the worst that can happen is the breaker tripping, assuming you have one, rather than a semi-enclosed-rewirable-fuse with "upgraded" wire in it.


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## Parks (8/7/11)

dent said:


> It is very likely if the power goes out for a while and they warm up, then they probably all start at once when the power comes back on. I think that is part of the reason for the compressor delay time on fridgemate controllers and the like, so you can stagger them.
> 
> Pretty much all domestic power circuits are 'maximum demand by limitation' anyhow as far as I know (I'm no housebasher) so the worst that can happen is the breaker tripping, assuming you have one, rather than a semi-enclosed-rewirable-fuse with "upgraded" wire in it.



No 2 fridges I have owned (at the same time) seem to start their compressors at the same time, even after a blackout. I would almost wonder if the newer ones with computers in them have a random timeout between 1 and 3 minutes or something for this exact situation.


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## Parks (8/7/11)

Parks said:


> No 2 fridges I have owned (at the same time) seem to start their compressors at the same time, even after a blackout. I would almost wonder if the newer ones with computers in them have a random timeout between 1 and 3 minutes or something for this exact situation.



Even still, their max draw isn't going to be any more than the main fridge compressor starting while you're boiling the kettle and microwaving last night's dinner.


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## earle (7/9/17)

Necro on this thread but I found it looking for an answer to the following.

My garage currently has one double powerpoint which I assume would be 10A. From it I run the following:

In the garage near the power point either directly or through a powerboard

~380L frost free upright freezer as fermentation fridge
~180L upright freezer
Various garden power tools as required
In a shed next to the garage via a extension lead

~500L fridge for conditioning kegs and holding a few bottles, hops in the freezer
Fluro light with LED tube

Various power tools as required
In the entertainment area next to the garage via another extension lead

Crown urn when brewing
This all seems to work fairly well with no problems.

I'm now putting together another 3x3m shed which will be a dedicated brewhouse

I plan to move the three fridges/freezers above into it
It will have an additional fluro light (without LED for now)
I'd also like to be able to brew with my urn in there
To combat moisture problems from boiling in the shed I'm thinking of setting the urn up next to one of the double doors, and use a box fan to push the steam out the door.
Maybe a stereo or tv (will have to see how what and how everything fits)
The shed is not meant to be permanent as we hope to extend the garage back eventually.

The above posts relate to running multiple appliances of a single circuit. My query relates to running the above of a double power point using a heavy duty (1.5mm) extension lead to the new brew shed - probably 15m length.

As indicated the current set up seems to work with no problems but I'm a bit concerned about running all the appliances in the brew shed off a single heavy duty extension with a power board. The power board would also be heavy duty with a 10A cut-off. Fridges seem to have a fairly low draw as would the fluro once started. I'm now thinking I should run a second lead exclusively for the urn.

Also thinking of getting a 2nd double power point installed next to the current one in the garage but I assume the electrician would just connect this to the cable leading to the existing one.

Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. As indicated it is not a permanent setup so hard wiring is not being considered.


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## Bonenose (7/9/17)

Should not be an issue running on a lead, but I would run the urn separate on it's own lead. If possible from an outlet on another power circuit just for extra reliability. I assume your urn is 2400w therefore you would potentially be running 14A or more in the case of everything running at once.


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## Lionman (7/9/17)

Fridges only use 200w at the most usually. Depends on the size of the fridge though.

They can use high amps at startup but only for a brief moment. I'm not sure if it would be enough to trip a breaker if 2 or 3 or 4 started simultaneously but I highly doubt it.


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## Zorco (7/9/17)

Lionman said:


> Fridges only use 200w at the most usually. Depends on the size of the fridge though.
> 
> They can use high amps at startup but only for a brief moment. I'm not sure if it would be enough to trip a breaker if 2 or 3 or 4 started simultaneously but I highly doubt it.



Yep, it's possible. I have three (and at one time 4) fridges on STC1000s. Was a simple matter of changing the compressor delay timer to shift them apart after a black out.


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## malt junkie (7/9/17)

the double power point all this is hooked up to is most likely on a 16a breaker (you really should check), your fridges if all on at once will be drawing around 3amps, your urn will pull 10amps. Now a standard power point is rated to 10amps, so the urn really does need it's own, also I'd be using a 15amp extension (minimum) for the urn (volt drop over distance). Check your powerboard the garage should be on it's own circuit and might have a higher rate breaker if so it would be a simple job for your sparky to add a few more points.


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## earle (8/9/17)

Thanks for the responses.

Need to get the electrician out for a few other small jobs so will probably get another power point added then.

Will use a separate extension lead for the urn. The heavy duty leads I have in mind have 1.5mm wire, my understanding is that this is essentially the same as a 15A lead but without the 15A wide earth blade


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## pcqypcqy (8/9/17)

At the old place, when I was brewing in the shed in my profile pic, I used to run 2 extension leads out for brew days. These were 'heavy duty' from Bunnings, but still only 10 amp I believe. Link.

I'd run the HLT element and its STC off one lead, and then everything else (pumps, kettle for HERMS, ferment fridge) off the other. Note that I wasn't usually running the fridge during a brew, and I use gas for the kettle.

Given the price of those leads, I'd be running one lead as a semi-permanent one to do all your fridges, light, stereo, tv, etc. And then on brew days just run another one out just for the urn.

You may find you won't want to actually brew in the shed during summer anyway, so you might end up just brewing outside near the shed and packing it all away.


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## earle (8/9/17)

Some of the HD leads have 1.5mm, I'll just need to look closely.

Yes, might get a bit hot in summer. Will see. It's actually in a pretty shady corner of the yard. If it's too hot I'll just brew where I currently brew as you say. I'd just like the option of brewing in the shad, particularly for sours where the process takes a few days.


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## earle (8/9/17)

Extension something like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-10m-10a-1-5mm-core-heavy-duty-tradesman-extension-lead_p4420227


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## Lionman (8/9/17)

malt junkie said:


> the double power point all this is hooked up to is most likely on a 16a breaker (you really should check), your fridges if all on at once will be drawing around 3amps, your urn will pull 10amps. Now a standard power point is rated to 10amps, so the urn really does need it's own, also I'd be using a 15amp extension (minimum) for the urn (volt drop over distance). Check your powerboard the garage should be on it's own circuit and might have a higher rate breaker if so it would be a simple job for your sparky to add a few more points.



Can't a double power point handle 10A per socket, limited to a total of 16A on a standard breaker?

If so it would be fine to run the fridges on one and the urn on the other?


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## pcqypcqy (8/9/17)

Lionman said:


> Can't a double power point handle 10A per socket, limited to a total of 16A on a standard breaker?
> 
> If so it would be fine to run the fridges on one and the urn on the other?



Depends on how it was wired. Some of the ones have one socket piggy backed onto the other, so the total for both sockets is still only 10 amps. If they are wired individually, you should be able to pull 10 amps per socket.


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## Bonenose (8/9/17)

Heavy duty 10A lead should be fine, in general the only difference is the earth pin. I assume you will have one lead pretty much permanently run out for fridges light etc. that you wont touch. I would recommend then running out a second lead when using the urn and putting it away afterwards. That way you check the lead every time you use it simply because you have to plug each end in. Have replaced a lot of outlets and leads where they have melted plugs into outlet etc. from high loads that are just plugged in and forgotten about. On a reasonably modern install with decent circuit breaker you should not have an issue.


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## Bonenose (10/9/17)

Couple photos of plug and powerboard you can see discolouration on the outlet around the active and the plastic on the plug has started to melt around active and neutral, there is also some discolouration of the pins not sure if it will show up in the photo. Normally run from an outlet plugged in to powerboard yesterday for convenience with this result. This is running a Robobrew so 10A load. I'm putting it down to crap connection on the powerboard, just something to look out for. Needless to say will not be doing that again.


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