# Uxcell Elements...



## kjparker (14/6/12)

I guess this is a continuation from here: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...3974&st=200 however the dicussion has degraded somewhat, and these are not the same as the original intention of the post.

I ordered two of the uxcell elements, a 3kw and a 2.5 kw element. Ebay links, as the UXcell website is currently unavailbe for me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-3KW-12mm-B...=item35bcc36a45
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-2-5KW-Powe...=item25716992e7

I got my order the other day and I received the the 3kw version shown below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-El...=item4ab87d888b

I've emailed them, and waiting for a response.

Anyway. The 3kw u shape element looks like a beast. I'll get pictures up later, but it looks like a very solid unit. A bit longer than I imaginined it would be, but I think it will fit.

Interestingly the circular element mounts in a 32mm hole, so could be an option for those wishing to change over from a keg king element. 


Who else is using these elements, and have you found any issues with them so far?


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## QldKev (14/6/12)

I've got 3 x 2kw u-shape Uxcell elements in my kettle. So far I love them. Easy to mount and I've had no issues at all (no melting wires, no rust). They clean off pretty easily after a batch. For a bit over $20 a pop ($8 plus $12 diecast box plus $2 cord) I think they are the best option at the moment. If they did a 2.4kw in the u-shape it would be even better. 

Sorry about the pic, it makes it look really grubby. 

The outer 2 elements are from UXcell direct they have s/s bushes and are 260mm long into the kettle (the keg king are 290mm for comparison) 
The inside one is from ebay (same seller) has brass bushes and is 275mm long. 

Yes I have bent the 2 outer ones away from the centre on so they don't touch, another benefit of these. 






QldKev


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## BlueSky (14/6/12)

Clueless,
I'll be very interested in your experiences with the '3KW 12mm Bar U Shape Stainless Steel Element' as I have one in my Ebay Watch List but haven't ordered it yet.

Any chance of some close-up pics of the mounting arrangement and dimensions of the larger threads? It looks like it comes with isolating washers?

Thanks in advance! :beer:


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## kjparker (14/6/12)

BlueSky said:


> Clueless,
> I'll be very interested in your experiences with the '3KW 12mm Bar U Shape Stainless Steel Element' as I have one in my Ebay Watch List but haven't ordered it yet.
> 
> Any chance of some close-up pics of the mounting arrangement and dimensions of the larger threads? It looks like it comes with isolating washers?
> ...


Yep Should be able to do that, but wont be able to do so until tonight.


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## QldKev (14/6/12)

Have a look at this post

Yes, it comes with silicone washers and also isolating spacers for mounting. You need 2 x 16mm holes to mount them.

Note, with my other 2 elements we have mounted the power cord into the side of the die-cast enclosure.


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## kjparker (14/6/12)

QldKev said:


> Have a look at this post
> 
> Yes, it comes with silicone washers and also isolating spacers for mounting. You need 2 x 16mm holes to mount them.
> 
> Note, with my other 2 elements we have mounted the power cord into the side of the die-cast enclosure.


Specificaly, this one! 

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=910181


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## QldKev (14/6/12)

Thats a good pic, shows how it would be mounted up with the seals etc

and also this one showing the cord from the side.


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## Acasta (14/6/12)

Hey can you tell me the vertical distance between the holes on these?


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## QldKev (14/6/12)

Acasta said:


> Hey can you tell me the vertical distance between the holes on these?




50mm centres

I used one of these diecast enclosures to mount it (strange my local is a lot cheaper than the internet price)


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## MastersBrewery (14/6/12)

I was unable to to get on the uxcell site myself, I like the look of the 2500 watt round one, just a little worried about power density and scorching wort, once setup I'd like the option to step mash. Low density elements are the go, just not enough info on these. :huh:


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## Acasta (14/6/12)

QldKev said:


> 50mm centres
> 
> I used one of these diecast enclosures to mount it (strange my local is a lot cheaper than the internet price)


Thanks,

Could you provide a quick parts list? I'm assuming you got most of it from jaycar.

(I wont be doing this myself, my uncle is an electrician)


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## QldKev (14/6/12)

Acasta said:


> Thanks,
> 
> Could you provide a quick parts list? I'm assuming you got most of it from jaycar.
> 
> (I wont be doing this myself, my uncle is an electrician)



Keeping a pic of this in your mind

element
** u-shape from uxcell **

Diecast enclosure
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

Cable gland (need to check size of the cord but I think this was the one that fitted cords nicely, mine are the next size up as that was what was in the electrical toy box at the time)
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

3 x Eye terminals (aka crimps) (assume your electrician will have 100 crimps spare)

Small nut and bolt to suit eye terminal to bolt earth to enclosure. 

Silicone to ensure enclosure sits square, otherwise my electrician just used plastic ties as fill and cut the end of it. Refer 3rd pic here about what I mean


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## Acasta (14/6/12)

QldKev said:


> Keeping a pic of this in your mind
> 
> element
> ** u-shape from uxcell **
> ...



Cheers! I'm thinking I'll go ahead with this, seems like a cheap and easy way. Not sure about the 16mm holes but I'll see how I go with the old step drill.

Thanks again.


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## seemax (14/6/12)

If the step drill is too much work, get a 16mm drill bit 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silverline-16Mm...=item1e6d50bbcf

Surely cheaper than a Sutton or equivalent at Bunnings...


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## kjparker (14/6/12)

MastersBrewery said:


> I was unable to to get on the uxcell site myself, I like the look of the 2500 watt round one, just a little worried about power density and scorching wort, once setup I'd like the option to step mash. Low density elements are the go, just not enough info on these. :huh:


I think you'll find if you measure the total tube length, and compare it to the U shaped one, you'd be pretty close.

Having said that the u shaped one was 2200w if I remember correctly.... the round is 2500w

On another note. I'm debating what type of plug to put on my 3000w element. 3000w equates to about 12 amp. so realy I should put a 15amp plug on it, however i'm wondering if there will be any issue if it's run on a regualr 10amp gpo, that is on it's own circuit. I wouldnt expect there to be, especially given the breaker I have is 16amp, and using 2.5mm tps

Does my logic seem sound?


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## kjparker (14/6/12)

WOW. Got to love dealing with English as a second language companies!

The replied to me stating that I should check my order, and that I ordered two elements one of them being a 3kw. Basicaly they told me that I was wrong and they supplied what I asked for...

LOL

I double checked the cofirmation email I got, and it was definitely one of each! Paypal claim here I come....


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## Acasta (14/6/12)

seemax said:


> If the step drill is too much work, get a 16mm drill bit
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silverline-16Mm...=item1e6d50bbcf
> 
> Surely cheaper than a Sutton or equivalent at Bunnings...



Good point, thanks. I'll see what my family and mates have lying around too.


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## Sam England (14/6/12)

Arvo guys.
Wish this topic was here last night. I've just bought 3 of the round 2.5kW elements (2 for braumeister clone and 1 for HLT or spare) because they worked out the best for my Braubushka style braumeister ie elements go under the malt pipe so you don't have to clamp the whole thing down. Both options will work, but as I'm mounting the whole system in a purpose built bench I thought I'd put the electrics underneath where they're hidden away. I have some concerns with scorching the wort so I'm going to make sure there is some gap between the coils and if that doesn't work, buy an extra 2 so that I can run them as 2+2 in parallel and quadruple the surface area (hence the four elements in the image). This should give me a 2.5kW system which mightn't be enough for 40L batches so may buy the 3 or 4kW options to lift the overall wattage. A long way off of starting the build, but you can see how they fit in a 50L pot (40cm) with the 19L Big W pot in the middle.

Cheers,

Sam


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## glenwal (14/6/12)

clueless said:


> On another note. I'm debating what type of plug to put on my 3000w element. 3000w equates to about 12 amp. so realy I should put a 15amp plug on it, however i'm wondering if there will be any issue if it's run on a regualr 10amp gpo, that is on it's own circuit. I wouldnt expect there to be, especially given the breaker I have is 16amp, and using 2.5mm tps
> 
> Does my logic seem sound?



You'll be fine from a house wiring and breaker point of view - however the actual GPO will only be rated to 10A. A 10A rated fitting probably isn't going to have problems at 12Amps - but do you really want to risk it? The probability might be low, but what happens if something does go wrong and it burns down your house and kills your family.


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## kjparker (14/6/12)

Glen W said:


> You'll be fine from a house wiring and breaker point of view - however the actual GPO will only be rated to 10A. A 10A rated fitting probably isn't going to have problems at 12Amps - but do you really want to risk it? The probability might be low, but what happens if something does go wrong and it burns down your house and kills your family.


I hear you. 

Having said that though, I brew in my shed, and that's far enough away that if a fire there spreads to the house, we got bigger problems! 

I have 15 amp outlets in there, so that isnt the issue, it was just a matter of I dont have any 15a plugtops, so have to get my ass down to buy one...


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## BlueSky (14/6/12)

Hi Kev & Clueless,
Thanks for the excellent info & links to piccies - I got all I need to know now. Didn't realise there was already info on them in another thread  
Slinte,
Steve


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## ampy (14/6/12)

BlueSky said:


> Hi Kev & Clueless,
> Thanks for the excellent info & links to piccies - I got all I need to know now. Didn't realise there was already info on them in another thread
> Slinte,
> Steve



:icon_offtopic: 
My god your avatar is distracting!!


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## rotten (14/6/12)

ampy said:


> :icon_offtopic:
> My god your avatar is distracting!!




mesmerising even. boing boing boing. It's just like looking at the mrs h34r:


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## black_labb (14/6/12)

I've picked up a few of their elements. I've just set up a single vessel recirculating automated system with one 2kw element in there. Testing today it works well, I'm going to brew something on it tomorrow. so I'll have some more input.

I'd suggest running running parts to take the full load as you will be running the full load for over an hour straight. I set my 2kw system up with a power cord that takes 20a so it doesn't get too warm.


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## neal32 (14/6/12)

I hope I didn't miss it earlier in the thread but could anyone who has the 2.5kw circular element tell me how wide the mounting hole needs to be? I punched a 40mm hole in the base of my HEX pot and the element shorted  Need to get a replacement and these look the goods.


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## kjparker (14/6/12)

neal32 said:


> I hope I didn't miss it earlier in the thread but could anyone who has the 2.5kw circular element tell me how wide the mounting hole needs to be? I punched a 40mm hole in the base of my HEX pot and the element shorted  Need to get a replacement and these look the goods.


When I measured the one I have, it looked to be 32mm


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## kjparker (15/6/12)

Just came across this variation of the 2.5kw element. Would be good for the heat exchanger I think.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251075257559?ss...9#ht_1511wt_854


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## QldKev (15/6/12)

clueless said:


> Just came across this variation of the 2.5kw element. Would be good for the heat exchanger I think.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251075257559?ss...9#ht_1511wt_854





I think it would be excellent in a HERMS or even the HLT, if you wanted a bit more power than the normal kettle element.

QldKev


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## kjparker (15/6/12)

QldKev said:


> I think it would be excellent in a HERMS or even the HLT, if you wanted a bit more power than the normal kettle element.
> 
> QldKev


Yep, just bought one last night. Will report back when it gets here


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## Acasta (15/6/12)

clueless said:


> Just came across this variation of the 2.5kw element. Would be good for the heat exchanger I think.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251075257559?ss...9#ht_1511wt_854



That looks perfect! Easy install with Kev's method with the convenient size of a kettle element. I'm looking to put on in a HLT.
I might just buy one now.

Great find.

P.S. Uxcell also sell them on their ebay store, not sure if it matters who you go with tbh...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-5KW-AC-220V-S...=item257147143a


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## kjparker (15/6/12)

Acasta said:


> That looks perfect! Easy install with Kev's method with the convenient size of a kettle element. I'm looking to put on in a HLT.
> I might just buy one now.
> 
> Great find.
> ...


For what it's worth, most sellers selling this stuff are actually uxcell as well. They have many many accounts. The one I bought was uxcell as well, different name on the PayPal email addres, but still at uxcell.com

All comes from the same place


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## Acasta (15/6/12)

clueless said:


> For what it's worth, most sellers selling this stuff are actually uxcell as well. They have many many accounts. The one I bought was uxcell as well, different name on the PayPal email addres, but still at uxcell.com
> 
> All comes from the same place



Yeah good point mate.

Have you ordered one of these yet? Did you get any dimensions? I'm thinking they would be perfect in the bottom of a converted keg. I measure the flat spot in the bottom and its 65mm across in diameter.


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## QldKev (15/6/12)




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## Acasta (15/6/12)

Thanks kev, but I was looking at the smaller spiral one clueless was talking about.


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## QldKev (15/6/12)

Acasta said:


> Thanks kev, but I was looking at the smaller spiral one clueless was talking about.





Size are there





so I think the bolt up would fit into the 65mm


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## Acasta (15/6/12)

Yeah I did see that but what I'm particularly interested in, and have emailed them about, is from outside nut to nut measurement.


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## breakbeer (15/6/12)

Acasta, the measurement you're after is the space between the (dead centre of the) two points at the top of the picture, not from the outer edge of the nuts.

edit: nice find btw, I'll be ordering 2 of these


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## Acasta (15/6/12)

breakbeer said:


> Acasta, the measurement you're after is the space between the (dead centre of the) two points at the top of the picture, not from the outer edge of the nuts.
> 
> edit: nice find btw, I'll be ordering 2 of these


No its not. I need to know if the nuts will also fit into the flat spot. A centre-to-centre measurement would not provide that, unless I also had the OD of the nuts on the threads.


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## kjparker (15/6/12)

Acasta said:


> Yeah good point mate.
> 
> Have you ordered one of these yet? Did you get any dimensions? I'm thinking they would be perfect in the bottom of a converted keg. I measure the flat spot in the bottom and its 65mm across in diameter.


I ordered one, but it isn't here yet. Don't expect it for a couple of weeks....


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## Impy (19/6/12)

clueless said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-2-5KW-Powe...=item25716992e7



Is there any problem running the 2500W 220V element on a standard 240V? Will it shorten it's life or is it really a non-issue? 

Also 2500W on 220v = ~12Amps I'll take a wild guess this will trip a standard 10Amp circuit?


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## Wolfy (19/6/12)

Impy said:


> Is there any problem running the 2500W 220V element on a standard 240V? Will it shorten it's life or is it really a non-issue?
> 
> Also 2500W on 220v = ~12Amps I'll take a wild guess this will trip a standard 10Amp circuit?


According to Wiki, we actually run 230V now:
"As of 2000, the mains supply voltage specified in AS 60038 is 230 V with a tolerance of +10% -6%.[4] This was done for voltage harmonisation - however 240 V is within tolerance and is commonly found. Mains voltage is still popularly referred to as being "two-forty volts".
Most all standard kettle-elements are actually marked with volt/watt, which from memory (my element is stuck inside a container now) is 220-240V.


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## seemax (19/6/12)

I run a 2200W element, laptop, big fluro lights, speakers, keezer, heating lamp and the odd power tool all off the same 10A circuit.

She'll be right lol


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## QldKev (20/6/12)

Wolfy said:


> According to Wiki, we actually run 230V now:
> "As of 2000, the mains supply voltage specified in AS 60038 is 230 V with a tolerance of +10% -6%.[4] This was done for voltage harmonisation - however 240 V is within tolerance and is commonly found. Mains voltage is still popularly referred to as being "two-forty volts".
> Most all standard kettle-elements are actually marked with volt/watt, which from memory (my element is stuck inside a container now) is 220-240V.




I though my power voltage was down when I tested it at 232v, but this makes it sound more on the mark.

QldKev


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## glenwal (20/6/12)

seemax said:


> I run a 2200W element, laptop, big fluro lights, speakers, keezer, heating lamp and the odd power tool all off the same 10A circuit.
> 
> She'll be right lol



A circuit and a GPO (power point) are two different things. You don't actually have 10A circuits in your house, the breaker will be at least 16A. The house wiring is also designed to handle > 16A so that the breaker is the "weak" link and trips before the wiring melts and burns your house down. If you are running all those things from different powerpoints on the same circuit, then there isn't a problem - and you've probably actually never had all of them draw current at the same time (your keezer will be on a thermostat and running at fridge temps wont be on very often - and how often do you use a power tool whilst brewing with your 2200W element?).

A standard GPO however is only rated to 10A. This is the reason using a large number of powerboards (or double adapters) can be dangerous. Appliances with a standard 10A plug can have a maximum rating of 2400W (ie. 10A), which means the most you will draw from a single GPO is 10A. Add in a double adapter or powerboard and you can eaisly excede the rating of the GPO. 

The problem with going over the 10A is that you won't trip the breaker. If it was a burst current (like the startup on a fridge or air con unit) then it wouldn't be anything to worry about. For a sustained draw though (and for an element is a very long time - say 90 min boil + 20min ramp up = near 2 hours) this is a very bad thing as the current will cause the outlet to heat up, and if you are drawing more than its rated for the heat can cause it to melt (see the keg king elements thread for examples of melted wiring). Now 12A probably won't be a problem (after all, a 10A GPO is rated to 10A, but realistically will be able to handle more), but the probably comes with a very big risk if a failure happens (ie. You can burn down your house and kill your self and your loved ones).

Now you may want to risk it - but if it was me, i'd either get a sparkie to install a 15A GPO (will need to be on a dedicated circuit) which also means you can go bigger if you want - or find a 2400W or less element to use.


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## BlueSky (21/6/12)

Clueless/QldKev,
I do have a quick question for you guys please  

Would you happen to know the diameter of the mounting flange for the 'U-Shaped Elements' (3kW double coil specifically)?







Cheers,
Steve


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## QldKev (21/6/12)

BlueSky said:


> Clueless/QldKev,
> I do have a quick question for you guys please
> 
> Would you happen to know the diameter of the mounting flange for the 'U-Shaped Elements' (3kW double coil specifically)?
> ...




I'm not sure on the 3kw double coil, as I have only got the 2kw single u-bend ones. The 2kw u-bend are 24mm.

QldKev


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## BlueSky (21/6/12)

Hi Kev,
Many thanks for the info.

Measured off the image - via computer screen & ruler, lol  - I got the 3kW flanges to be about 27mm.

Not sure whether to go 1 x 3kW or 2 x 2kW in my keggle conversion :unsure: 

Feck it, as Jeremy Clarkson says 'More Power!', so I'll order 2 x 2kW direct from Uxcell as I want the stainless flanges.

Cheers,
Steve


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## QldKev (21/6/12)

I'm a more power man, I hate a soft boil. If you have the power to run the 2 x 2kw ones I would go that way. If it ends up boiling too hard for what you want throw one of these in line and drop it back to the desired boil level. 

QldKev


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## booargy (21/6/12)

BlueSky said:


> Clueless/QldKev,
> I do have a quick question for you guys please
> 
> Would you happen to know the diameter of the mounting flange for the 'U-Shaped Elements' (3kW double coil specifically)?
> ...



28mm and the thread is 18mm OD. They also have a 4kw version but 2x2kw would be easier to clean.


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## BlueSky (21/6/12)

Thanks for the replies guys!

Well, I've just ordered the 2 x 2kW - like Kevs - from Uxcell. 

I want to mount one as low as possible in the keg and that will be adjustable via one of the various circuits around (already have the potentiometer-controlled-SSR** to try). The other can be directly connected to another ring in the house until I move to the garage & upgrade the supply (13A max @ 240V (3kW) here in the UK for a single socket/circuit).

Cheers,
Steve


**


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## kjparker (21/6/12)

QldKev said:


> I'm not sure on the 3kw double coil, as I have only got the 2kw single u-bend ones. The 2kw u-bend are 24mm.
> 
> QldKev




I just measured my 3kw one, and it's the same, and all stainless....


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## kjparker (21/6/12)

BlueSky said:


> Thanks for the replies guys!
> 
> Well, I've just ordered the 2 x 2kW - like Kevs - from Uxcell.
> 
> ...



I dont see how that's going to work. the ssr doesnt turn down the power, it turns it on or off


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## BlueSky (21/6/12)

Hi Clueless,
Thanks for the flange size confirmation.

Re. the controller, basically, you can buy cheap, Chinese knock-off copies of the PSR-25 (PSR-25 .pdf)

Here's the thread I nicked the circuit off... 'Cheap Simple Voltage Controller'

Probably calling it an SSR is technically incorrect :unsure: but they seem to work.


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## kjparker (22/6/12)

BlueSky said:


> Hi Clueless,
> Thanks for the flange size confirmation.
> 
> Re. the controller, basically, you can buy cheap, Chinese knock-off copies of the PSR-25 (PSR-25 .pdf)
> ...


interesting.

the links they gave to buy it are no longer working, but the "real " psr-25's i saw when googling are nothing like a regular ssr. 

Got a link where you bought yours from?


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## BlueSky (22/6/12)

Hi C.,
I got mine from Ebay... just do a search for 'resistance SSR' (set Location to Worldwide) and you should get 100's of listings.

Here's what I get for Ebay Oz & 25A... >>CLICKY<<

Same for Uxcell ...Google their site & then just search for 'resistance SSR' (their website won't let me link direct to it at all! )


Edit: links.


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## JaseH (22/6/12)

If its just a simple voltage controller for the element you want, then use one of these.

Been working fine on my 3600W kettle element so far.


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## kjparker (26/6/12)

My spiral element turned up today.

Nice and compact, just the thing for the heat exchanger. Feels fairly solid too


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## Malted (26/6/12)

Frothie said:


> If its just a simple voltage controller for the element you want, then use one of these.
> 
> Been working fine on my 3600W kettle element so far.


I don't understand why you would use this do-hicky.

It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.

If you're running it on a 15 amp circuit then why the do-hicky? Is it just used as a temperature controller type of do-hicky to regulate it's heating potential (like a temperature dial on an urn)??


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## kjparker (26/6/12)

Malted said:


> I don't understand why you would use this do-hicky.
> 
> It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
> So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.
> ...


I think what he is referring to is that if the 3600w element has too much grunt, you can use that to turn it down.

Doesnt negate the requirement for the proper circuit


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## kjparker (26/6/12)

Acasta said:


> No its not. I need to know if the nuts will also fit into the flat spot. A centre-to-centre measurement would not provide that, unless I also had the OD of the nuts on the threads.



It's approximately 60mm


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## BlueSky (27/6/12)

Malted said:


> It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
> So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.



Hi Malted,
That's not how it works I'm afraid.

The 'constant' is the resistance of the element not the current it draws. An element that draws 15A at 240V has a power rating of 3600W... from a combination of Ohms Law (V=I*R) & the Power Law (P=I*V) we can calculate the resistance as 16 ohms, which is - more-or-less - constant.

So say you only have a 10A max supply, you can then calculate the maximum supply voltage to the element so as not to exceed that current.

I=10A
R=16Ω
V= what we need to know

V=10*16 = 160V

So with an AC voltmeter across the element terminals you wind up your do-hicky until you reach 160V. Note the position of your do-hicky knob as this is the maximum setting for that specific element not to exceed 10A current draw from your socket/supply. You'll be using 1600W btw.

As a practical example... I have ordered 2 x 2kW elements for my keggle. In the UK our max current is 13A per supply ring and we're still basically running @ 240V despite the Euro-bollocks. So I could connect each element to a separate supply, say, one on the dedicated leccy cooker ring and the other on the down-stairs sockets ring and I would have a total 4kW of heating power. _Or_, I could connect one element direct to my 13A supply (it will draw approx. 8.3A) and the other thro a do-hicky - on the same supply - and limit it to 4.7A. Combined they will draw the 13A maximum.

The upshot being that I can have either 2kW (one element connected), 3kw (one element direct & one variable) or 4kW (both elements connected on separate supplies) depending upon how much heating power I require for batch size, boil control, whatever.

Caveat: This is all in theory. Don't mess with stuff you don't understand especially if it can lead to your death or your house burning down. Always consult a qualified person, etc.


Edit: to add warning.


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## JaseH (27/6/12)

Malted said:


> I don't understand why you would use this do-hicky.
> 
> It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
> So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.
> ...



Yeah I am using it on a 15amp circuit to throttle back the 3600W element in my kettle. I didnt read the entire thread, just assumed you guys were looking for some form of element voltage control and I figured this was simpler than the method being discussed. Sorry if I was off track.


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## Malted (27/6/12)

Frothie said:


> Yeah I am using it on a 15amp circuit to throttle back the 3600W element in my kettle. I didnt read the entire thread, just assumed you guys were looking for some form of element voltage control and I figured this was simpler than the method being discussed. Sorry if I was off track.



Mate it was probably me who was off track. It is all good discussion.


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## breakbeer (5/7/12)

My 2.5kw element arrived from uxcell yesterday, seems like a solid unit
I plan to hook it up through a die cast box as per Kev's and adding a voltage regulator


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## breakbeer (27/7/12)

so I installed the 2.5kw spiral element into the wall of my keggle, without the die cast box & wiring, just to see how well it fit on the curved surface

I went to remove the element & realised I've cross threaded one side of it..





I'm a bit spewin coz now I can't undo the nut, believe me I tried. Even more spewin coz I just upgraded to a 70L s/s pot that planned on installing this element in, with a 2nd one that's on it's way from Uxcell right now

might be back to the drawing board as fas as my choice of element goes


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## Maheel (27/7/12)

cut the nut off with a dremal or hacksaw slowly 

the thread looks "ok" for now 

then buy some better nuts.....are the ones on there square ?


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## Cocko (27/7/12)

breakbeer said:


> so I installed the 2.5kw spiral element into the wall of my keggle, without the die cast box & wiring, just to see how well it fit on the curved surface
> 
> I went to remove the element & realised I've cross threaded one side of it..
> 
> ...



Mate, I would say you will be fine with the 70L pot install with the 2nd element.... just dont cross thread the nut!  

That said, I have read about some success with these bad boys...

Also, Punkin [A Member here, has some elements that dont explode  ]

3.14519... pies.


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## breakbeer (27/7/12)

Maheel, the nuts are hex but very cheap & rounded quite easily after an hour or so of me trying to remove it. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a Dremel

Cocko, I wanna use 2 elements, so hopefully I can salvage this one & use it with the one that's in the mail. Thinking about installing both of them in the bottom of the pot so they're mounted to a flat surface. Only issue with that is they're 100mm high from the base of the pot


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## Cocko (27/7/12)

breakbeer said:


> Cocko, I wanna use 2 elements, so hopefully I can salvage this one & use it with the one that's in the mail. Thinking about installing both of them in the bottom of the pot so they're mounted to a flat surface. Only issue with that is they're 100mm high from the base of the pot



Hopefully you can save it mate... I guess the only chance, if you can't undo it is, cut it off and dress the thread with a thread file or re-tap it.. or take to a engineer and see what they can do for you maybe... no easy solution I can see, others may know better.

What is the issue with the 100mm from the base?


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## breakbeer (27/7/12)

I reckon my main issue is that if I choose to go with these elements then I'm kinda stuck with them coz of the specific hole diameter & spacing. On the plus side they're only $20 each

to add insult to injury, I also now have an unused Keg King element that I bought from a different retailer so thought I was safe from the problems I read about in the thread




one element I can't remove and another I can't use. :angry:


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## hyjak71 (27/7/12)

This thread couldn't have hit my radar at a more opportune time, two 2kw U shapes ordered.
Thanks to all


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## QldKev (28/7/12)

breakbeer said:


> so I installed the 2.5kw spiral element into the wall of my keggle, without the die cast box & wiring, just to see how well it fit on the curved surface
> 
> I went to remove the element & realised I've cross threaded one side of it..
> 
> ...




Was it cross threaded when you did it up? ie did you need to do it up with a spanner, or could you do it by hand?

Is there a reason you bolted it horizontally across the pot and not vertically. I've put all of mine in vertically to minimise the pots wall curvature on them, and have bolted them pretty tight. I wonder if doing it up against the curve of the pot, being horizontally and without the diecast box in place has cause the issue by pulling the nut on the angle of the pots sidewall?


QldKev


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## breakbeer (28/7/12)

QldKev said:


> Was it cross threaded when you did it up? ie did you need to do it up with a spanner, or could you do it by hand?
> 
> Is there a reason you bolted it horizontally across the pot and not vertically. I've put all of mine in vertically to minimise the pots wall curvature on them, and have bolted them pretty tight. I wonder if doing it up against the curve of the pot, being horizontally and without the diecast box in place has cause the issue by pulling the nut on the angle of the pots sidewall?
> 
> ...



Yeah, needed to use a spanner and am probably to blame for cross threading it. In hindsight I should've mounted them vertically. Ah well, ya live n learn


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## QldKev (28/7/12)

breakbeer said:


> Yeah, needed to use a spanner and am probably to blame for cross threading it. In hindsight I should've mounted them vertically. Ah well, ya live n learn




It's probably good news for you at least, you should be ok to use the other element in the new pot.


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## crozdog (28/7/12)

anyone got any ideas on how to mount one of these?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3U-Style-220-38...9#ht_1434wt_922

triclamp?

if i can work it out it'll be the cheapest 6kw element option around.

thanks

croz


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## crozdog (1/8/12)

crozdog said:


> anyone got any ideas on how to mount one of these?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3U-Style-220-38...9#ht_1434wt_922
> 
> ...



anyone?????


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## Maheel (1/8/12)

crozdog said:


> anyone?????



reckon your gonna have to drop the $21 and see what they come like .

it's a strange looking mounting plate on it


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## blotto (1/8/12)

crozdog said:


> anyone got any ideas on how to mount one of these?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3U-Style-220-38...9#ht_1434wt_922
> 
> ...


Cut a hole in your lid and dangle it in?


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## crozdog (1/8/12)

Maheel said:


> reckon your gonna have to drop the $21 and see what they come like .
> 
> it's a strange looking mounting plate on it



yeah i was wondering if it could be mounted into a 3" triclamp ferrule & rig up something like Punkin's element guard....

Thanks Wort, but want a more permanent / safe solution.


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## Maheel (1/8/12)

crozdog said:


> yeah i was wondering if it could be mounted into a 3" triclamp ferrule & rig up something like Punkin's element guard....



for the price you might just be better going the 1" screw in.
at least you know they work and can get parts easy. (and use Punkins mount / guard thing)

because if you weld on 3" triclover flange then you have a 3" hole in your boiler...


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## crozdog (1/8/12)

Maheel said:


> for the price you might just be better going the 1" screw in.
> at least you know they work and can get parts easy. (and use Punkins mount / guard thing)
> 
> because if you weld on 3" triclover flange then you have a 3" hole in your boiler...



problem is i can't find a 6kw element in 1" bps  have been looking & ringing...


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## black_labb (1/8/12)

breakbeer said:


> so I installed the 2.5kw spiral element into the wall of my keggle, without the die cast box & wiring, just to see how well it fit on the curved surface
> 
> I went to remove the element & realised I've cross threaded one side of it..
> 
> ...




I put my element in the same way. I was able to make things fit by "forming" )aka flattening with a hammer) the keggle until things were flat, though if the element if fucked you will need to replace it


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## mudd (1/8/12)

looks like two built in thermowells which could be handy.

Equipment these are installed in must have some sort of clamp fixing. Cant think there's an inexpensive way to mount them. 

Watch the exposed terminals also, it's as much work to enclose them safely.

Mudd


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## punkin (2/8/12)

2" ferrule is about 65mm, so maybe they'd somehow fit on a 2". Can't see it working with the element guard as that only has a 1" thread, unless you used it backwards i guess and had the wiring coming out of the 1" hole.......

Interesting looking beast.


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## Maheel (2/8/12)

http://www.coffeeparts.com.au/carimali/car...i-spare-parts-6

you could go have a look at some coffee machine ones 

i know carimali are screw in (but more like 2") and a few other brands are as well plenty go up to 4500 but some might go 6kw?

Pedro is the guy at coffeeparts and it's in Sydney not far from the airport 
but they are going to be a little more $$ than uxcell...


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## breakbeer (4/8/12)

two new elements arrived yesterday & just installed one of them as per QldKev's instructions on Page 8 of the Keg King elements thread.

Absolute Legend! Couldn't have been simpler.

Just need to buy a cable gland & some wire connectors & I'm done.

Cheers

I might have to replace the gaskets that came with it though cox they look far from food grade


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## crozdog (7/8/12)

breakbeer said:


> I might have to replace the gaskets that came with it though cox they look far from food grade



cut your own from some silicone bake wear. you can pick em up in target / kmart / bigw. too easy :icon_chickcheers:


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## breakbeer (30/8/12)

I'm getting rust on my uxcell spiral element, rusted up a bit the first time I flushed the pot with Starsan. I cleaned it up but it keeps coming back <_< 

I have a spare which I managed to salvage from my keg, so I'll be swapping them over on the weekend & attacking the slightly rusted one with a Dremel


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## black_labb (16/10/12)

Quick update

My 2kw uxcell full stainless isn't fully stainless. The threads/plug assembly rusts (not just spots from bad stainless but full on rust). I had a spare one with a brass ends spare which seems fine.

so in my experiment avoid these http://www.uxcell.com/220v-2kw-type-stainl...h-p-191036.html

but these seem fine http://www.uxcell.com/2kw-power-shaped-sta...e-p-175120.html


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## QldKev (25/10/12)

black_labb said:


> Quick update
> 
> My 2kw uxcell full stainless isn't fully stainless. The threads/plug assembly rusts (not just spots from bad stainless but full on rust). I had a spare one with a brass ends spare which seems fine.
> 
> ...



I've found the same thing. I think the 'all stainless' ones actually have a tin/chrome base.

QldKev


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## QldKev (25/10/12)

Is anyone running their 23L batch system kettles on the 2KW versions. I've recently built a small system for experiments and used just 1 x 2KW version, it's a pretty pussy boil. It is a rolling boil, but it's just not vigorous. The 50L pot is fully insulated with a camping mat, then a stretchy material over that. 

I'm starting to think maybe I need to add a second element, that is controlled by one of those overgrown dimmers.

QldKev


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## black_labb (25/10/12)

Yep, I've been using mine with a 50L Keggle. Not a big boil but I'm happy doing a 75 or 90 minute boil to be sure. I've insulated mine with an emergency blanket.


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## booargy (25/10/12)

QldKev said:


> Is anyone running their 23L batch system kettles on the 2KW versions. I've recently built a small system for experiments and used just 1 x 2KW version, it's a pretty pussy boil. It is a rolling boil, but it's just not vigorous. The 50L pot is fully insulated with a camping mat, then a stretchy material over that.
> 
> I'm starting to think maybe I need to add a second element, that is controlled by one of those overgrown dimmers.
> 
> QldKev



I have found 2.2kw is not enough for 50L keg. 4kw and voltage control will give you slow simmer to volcano. but unless you use a circuit for each element you will then need 20amp circuit for 16-18 amp max.


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## QldKev (9/11/12)

Anyone seen these elements? Farly low density at 1.4m long, 2kw and $24.10 posted. 

QldKev


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## Cocko (9/11/12)

QldKev said:


> Anyone seen these elements? Farly low density at 1.4m long, 2kw and $24.10 posted.
> 
> QldKev




Look like a killer to clean!


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## QldKev (9/11/12)

Cocko said:


> Look like a killer to clean!



Good point. I was just sniffing around as I burnt some crap onto my element on my 1V playing with an acid rest. 

QldKev


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## robbo5253 (4/1/13)

Any more feedback on these? Looking for an element for a HLT.

Cheers

Robbo


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## scottc1178 (4/1/13)

robbo5253 said:


> Any more feedback on these? Looking for an element for a HLT.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Robbo




i got this type, 

http://www.uxcell.com/2kw-power-shaped-sta...e-p-175120.html

(purchased via ebay)

hooked up to an STC-1000 (thanks to kev's advice) only used it 6 or so time so far but it's going great.


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## QldKev (4/1/13)

The 3 in my 3v kettle and also the 1 in my 'little bro' system are all still going strong. If I needed more elements these are the first ones I would look at.


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## Maheel (4/1/13)

QldKev said:


> The 3 in my 3v kettle and also the 1 in my 'little bro' system are all still going strong. If I needed more elements these are the first ones I would look at.



how many brews have they done Kev ?


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## QldKev (4/1/13)

Maheel said:


> how many brews have they done Kev ?



In the 3V kettle, I think the first element was April and the other 2 got added May; so at a guess a least 8 to 10 brews
In the 'little bro' 5 brews

So both setups still fairly new. But the benefit of these is the element itself is under $15, so if it does ever die you can reuse all the mounting hardware again. Post is only $2 extra for additional items from uxcell, so the second element is about $10, I got a spare in the shed just incase. But looking at these I don't think I'll be needing it. 


QldKev


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## Truman42 (11/2/13)

If anyone is ordering from Uxcell before the 19th April let me know and I will give you a coupon code for $5 off.

I dont need to buy anything from them so would hate to see the voucher go to waste.


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## Truman42 (19/2/13)

Bump..Anyone want this????Shame to waste it.


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## QldKev (19/2/13)

Truman said:


> Bump..Anyone want this????Shame to waste it.


It makes the uxcel heating element pretty cheap buying


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## Truman42 (16/4/13)

Gents if your ordering from uxcell I have a voucher that expires on the 19th of this month for $5 off

coupon no is NAFBMXWJ4K.

First in best dressed.


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## jonnir (18/12/13)

Where you'll been finding these elements for $8? Cheapest I've found is $16


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## Truman42 (25/3/14)

Anyone have an Uxcell voucher they're not wanting that I could use?


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## QldKev (25/3/14)

Truman said:


> Anyone have an Uxcell voucher they're not wanting that I could use?


I ordered a gauge on 9-mar, hopefully it will be here today or soon, it should have a voucher in it.

(I say should have a voucher with it, as it was a 5.99 item and I used a voucher to get it, so I only paid 0.99 all up. Last time they still included a voucher)


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## Truman42 (25/3/14)

Hook me up Kevvo..


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## pat_00 (25/3/14)

K8VZHYXDYX

Valid til 27th (2 days)


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## Truman42 (25/3/14)

pat_00 said:


> K8VZHYXDYX
> 
> Valid til 27th (2 days)


Cheers mate Thanks heaps.


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## Truman42 (25/3/14)

I swear their website must be connected to a server thats hookd up via dial up 56kb modem, its so fcuking slowwwwww


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## GrumpyPaul (25/3/14)

Truman said:


> I swear their website must be connected to a server thats hookd up via dial up 56kb modem, its so fcuking slowwwwww


Its because 200 other blokes from AHB are all placing orders using that voucher code at the same time


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## Truman42 (25/3/14)

GrumpyPaul said:


> Its because 200 other blokes from AHB are all placing orders using that voucher code at the same time


Well tuff titties to them as I got in first..lol


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## QldKev (25/3/14)

Truman said:


> I swear their website must be connected to a server thats hookd up via dial up 56kb modem, its so fcuking slowwwwww



Turn ya porn download off before surfing the net h34r:


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## Truman42 (26/3/14)

QldKev said:


> Turn ya porn download off before surfing the net h34r:


Haha. I was at work Kev.


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## pat_00 (26/3/14)

even more reason


----------

