# Malt Extract + Brew Enhancer



## lano (10/8/10)

Hi all,

I am only a kit + Brew Enhancer brewer (very basic) but I want to try to take the next step and go to kits with hops / malt /etc.

I have put in a brew with Brew Enhancer 1 + Coopers Amber Malt Extract without knowing that Malt Extract can replace the sugar content. Have a stuffed it completely? Will I blow up bottles? What shoudl I do?

Cheers!


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## manticle (10/8/10)

If you let it ferment out properly, you will not get bottle bombs. This means guaging the gravity it should finish at, letting it get there or very near there, leaving it for at least three days (I suggest at least a week) before bottling.

What was the exact recipe? 

Many recipes will incorporate malt AND sugars like dextrose or sucrose - They do not have equivalent fermenatbility and both will provide different qualities to the brew (besides alcohol and CO2).


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## enoch1973 (10/8/10)

We need more information about the brew... if you've put the BE1 + the Liquid Amber Malt in the fermenter then you may like to look at some of the Morgans Hop bags you can get from you local brew shop... How long has it been in the fermenter? 
If you're only using BE1 + Amber LME its going to be fairly bland... More info? What did you do?


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## lano (10/8/10)

Thanks!

I was goimg to leaving at least a week. Dont know how to do the gravity thing. ill just leave it until it has stopped fermenting!

I was after an Amber Ale type brew. ingredients:

- Morgans Amber Ale
- Coopers Amber Malt Extact
- Brew Enhancer 1
- Cluster Hops

I will post and tell you how it goes!!!

Cheers


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## keifer33 (10/8/10)

You need to use a hydrometer to test the gravity of the beer. Without one your running blind and run the risk of thinking it finished fermenting but may be slow or just stalled and you could have some bottle bombs on your hands.


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## lano (10/8/10)

lano said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I was goimg to leaving at least a week. Dont know how to do the gravity thing. ill just leave it until it has stopped fermenting!
> 
> ...


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## manticle (10/8/10)

How will you know it's stopped fermenting if you don't measure the gravity?

Go to hombrew shop.
Buy hydrometer
When you think the brew has finished or is close, pour a hydrometer tube's worth (good hydrometers should come with a plastic test tube - only buy one that does) and drink or throw away (at least taste so you develop an understanding - won't taste like your final product). Pour another tube's worth and float your hydrometer, heavy side down in the vessel. Spin to remove the bubbles, allow to settle for a few seconds then take a reading. If that reading has dropped a few days later, it's still fermenting. If it's the same it's either stalled (if the reading is higher than expected) or finished.

I'm saying leave for a week AFTER it's finished, not from beginning to end.

In regards to your recipe - what amounts of each ingredient?
How much water/final volume?


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## enoch1973 (10/8/10)

How long's it been in the fermenter? 
How did you add the Cluster Hops?
Some hops are better than none... especially with BE1 + LME... 


lano said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I was goimg to leaving at least a week. Dont know how to do the gravity thing. ill just leave it until it has stopped fermenting!
> 
> ...


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## lano (10/8/10)

been in fermenter 3 days

bought hops in "tea bag" thing!! - 10 mins in boiled watter - all in brewer


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## manticle (10/8/10)

How much malt? How much water?
Promise me you'll buy a hydrometer and learn to use it correctly.


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## lano (16/8/10)

Ok, I got a hydometer!

I dont know the exact reading, but it was not in the "green zone" for bottleing. Will it get to the "green zone"?

It stopped bubbling, but started up again for a day. 

Cheers


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## bum (16/8/10)

Ignore the green zone. The green zone doesn't mean anything.

Also ignore the bubbling. That doesn't really mean much either.

You need to know what the hydrometer is reading or there's not much point having it.

For 2 tins of goop and a box of BE1 I'd be thinking about anything from 1014 to 1010 depending on how well everything went. If your brew sits anywhere in that range for 3 readings in a row (24hrs apart each) you should be good to go - but your beer will benefit from waiting a little before you bottle anyway so don't be in too much of a rush if you can stand it.


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## Pennywise (16/8/10)

What does the hydrometer read? Forget the "zones" are there, their f**kin' useless


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## lano (16/8/10)

thanks heaps,

I think it was reading 1020. Buts all I was worried about is the "green zone". 

Ill take another reading tonight and post it.

Cheers


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## keifer33 (16/8/10)

The 'green zone' only worked once for me when I used a tin of goo and bag of dextrose. As soon as you used things that don't totally ferment readings don't always get under the 1.010 to hit the green.


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## lano (17/8/10)

ok, hydrometer reading 1022.

thats almost 3 days straight.

not bubbling anymore.

Good plan to leave it until Saturday, then bottle?


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## kelbygreen (17/8/10)

I would not bottle yet even though you put double the amount of fermentables it should ferment down to roughly 1.015 what temp is it sitting at??? also if you pitched the kit yeast I would say there wasnt enough for the such high OG


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## lano (17/8/10)

sitting at 22 degrees. 

I just used the yeast in the kit.

What should i do?


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## Hatchy (17/8/10)

Leave it. When in doubt leave it. Wait for a consistent reading 3 days in a row. Leaving it for a week after that won't hurt it but may make it better.


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## DU99 (17/8/10)

leave it..lagers run lower


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## MattC (17/8/10)

What should you do? Well stop pacing the hallway and running your hands through your fastly decreasing hairline for starters  

No just jokes, seriously 

If we assume the following

1. morgans cans = 1.8kg
2. coopers liquid malt extract = 1 kg
3. brew enhancer = 1 kg

And you are doing a 23L batch?

that gives you a SG of about 1.052, using an average yeast (70% AA - dont worry about this figure ATM) should give you an FG (finishing gravity) of about 1.015, which Kelbygreen said. 

But i noticed you live in Tamworth? Do you temp control your brews? Do you use some heating device? The reason i ask because if the temp has dropped too low at any stage, the yeast may have dropped out and will have stopped working.

Perhaps you could carefully, you dont want to splash it, swirl the fermenter and try and rouse the yeast a little?

At 1.022 it has not finished, and if you bottle it and then the temps warm up, you may have bottle bombs

Cheers


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## lano (17/8/10)

Thanks Matt C.

Yes you are correct with all.

I have a heater belt and have tried to keep it constant at 22 -24, but it has dropped down to 18 over night some nights. 

I will give a "swirl" tomorrow and see how it goes.  

Cheers All!


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## manticle (17/8/10)

If you bottle a fairly basic kit brew at 1022 you are asking for trouble.

Take the equvalent of a hydrometer tube's worth. Measure the gravity.
Pour the liquid into a clean longneck or stubbie and seal.

Take inside, allow to warm to between 24 and 28 degrees. Shake every time you think about it (the bottle, not you). Keep warm. In another 3 days time, pour back into the tube and measure the gravity. If it's dropped, pour back in and repeat. If it hasn't dropped, pour back in and repeat. 2nd time around - if it's dropped, repeat, if it hasn't dropped - that's your final gravity the brew should get to. If it's not there, you need to rouse it.

Remember- time is not the important thing (any more than airlock bubbling is) Gravity and its changes and stabilisation are the important things.


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## rendo (17/8/10)

This coming sat?? Unlikely mate, not in this colder weather. Leave it for saturday week 29th, SERIOUSLY, it will do your beers wonders and the yeast will eat up alot of the nasties that can cause off flavours, during that time.

Waiting/patience is one of the best skills when it comes to HBrew

(and yes...get to know and love your hydrometer. No need for samples everyday, just take one every second day, save that precious beer. Soon when u get more experienced you will only need 2 or 3 hydro readings per brew,,,,,,,,,)

Rendo




lano said:


> ok, hydrometer reading 1022.
> 
> thats almost 3 days straight.
> 
> ...


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## Brewman_ (17/8/10)

Further to Manticles advice,

I use a similar process except I just take the sample, leave it in the hydrometer test tube with the hydrometer, cover with some glad wrap. Leave it in a warm place, kitchen or living room, and check each day. Don't worry about how hot it gets as long as it does not get really hot - like over 25. Watch this until it stabilises for 3 days. That should be your final gravity.

I do this with every lager. The fermenter will be at 10 Deg.C but the sample tube at say 21 in the kitchen, and I use the final gravity of the sample as my target final gravity, as the sample at 21 will reach the final gravity much faster at that temperature.

fear_n_loath


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## bum (17/8/10)

manticle said:


> Take inside, allow to warm to between 24 and 28 degrees. Shake every time you think about it (the bottle, not you). Keep warm. In another 3 days time, pour back into the tube and measure the gravity. If it's dropped, pour back in and repeat. If it hasn't dropped, pour back in and repeat. 2nd time around - if it's dropped, repeat, if it hasn't dropped - that's your final gravity the brew should get to.





fear_n_loath said:


> Leave it in a warm place, kitchen or living room, and check each day. Don't worry about how hot it gets as long as it does not get really hot - like over 25. Watch this until it stabilises for 3 days. That should be your final gravity.


Or you might need to think about a re-pitch.


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## Screwtop (18/8/10)

MattC said:


> What should you do? Well stop pacing the hallway and running your hands through your fastly decreasing hairline for starters
> 
> No just jokes, seriously
> 
> ...









Well done Matt

Some reasoning and explanation regarding his expected finishing gravity. I was wondering if the OP had used sugar as well which would have upped the OG but brought up the AA by a few points.

Cheers,

Screwy


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## lano (18/8/10)

Thank you everyone for your assistance.

I gave it a stir this morning and started bubbeling again (glad I didnt bottle it!!!).

I will take a sample out and do a reading every day unti I get 1.015 or below and the sane for 3 days.

BTW: you guys are talking in a language that I dont understand :blink: 

I will update when I decide to bottle and again a few weeks after that to tell you houw shit it tastes (I dont have much hope for it!).

Thanks again.


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## petesbrew (18/8/10)

To decipher all the OP, AA, LHBS, and other abbreviations, this link helps heaps.


http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...;showarticle=17

The 1015 reading will be approximate - don't stress if yours isn't exactly on it. But the extra week wait does help.


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## petesbrew (18/8/10)

fear_n_loath said:


> Further to Manticles advice,
> 
> I use a similar process except I just take the sample, leave it in the hydrometer test tube with the hydrometer, cover with some glad wrap. Leave it in a warm place, kitchen or living room, and check each day. Don't worry about how hot it gets as long as it does not get really hot - like over 25. Watch this until it stabilises for 3 days. That should be your final gravity.
> 
> ...


Interesting idea. Might try it next time with my spare shitty brigalow hydrometer.


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## lano (18/8/10)

Thanks for the Acronym List.

TBH This HB batch has been a real PITA. When I figured out that I had added too much sugar I thought FFS, WTF have I done? I thought I would go on to AHB and someone would LMK what to do. I Dindt realise that the OG and FG would proove so critical. Anyway, when it is finally R2D I hope it will be BTABJ. As it turns our mty local HBS know Sweet FA! 

What is an AFD though???


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## petesbrew (18/8/10)

lano said:


> What is an AFD though???



When you've got a fridge full of delicious HB, it's a challenge.


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## JestersDarts (18/8/10)

lano said:


> Thanks for the Acronym List.
> 
> TBH This HB batch has been a real PITA. When I figured out that I had added too much sugar I thought FFS, WTF have I done? I thought I would go on to AHB and someone would LMK what to do. I Dindt realise that the OG and FG would proove so critical. Anyway, when it is finally R2D I hope it will be BTABJ. As it turns our mty local HBS know Sweet FA!
> 
> What is an AFD though???



:lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Pennywise (18/8/10)

lano said:


> What is an AFD though???




I wouldn't worry about that one, hopefully it's something you'll never have to endure :icon_drunk:


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## pcmfisher (18/8/10)

Coopers Liquid Malt 1.5kg ( not 1kg)
Morgans tin 1.7kg (not 1.8kg)
BE1 = 600g Dex + 400g Maltodex
in 23L

I get Og 1.064 and FG 1.019

Yes 1.022 is a little high but may not manage 1.015.


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## Hatchy (18/8/10)

More fermenters are the best way to avoid the dreaded AFD. Get through a couple of cartons of coopers longnecks while yr waiting on this one to ensure a plentiful bottle supply as well.


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## lano (18/8/10)

Dont worry, I seem to avoid AFD's fairly easily!!!

I dont need anymore bottles. I plan to Keg-it at xmas!

Let see if I can make a Keg Bomb?


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## lano (22/8/10)

OK guys,

Hydrometer still on 1.022. I have had at good temp (22) for most of the time. I have stired it twice. Still wont get any lower.

Do I put in more yeast or just bottle the F*cker?


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## MattC (22/8/10)

If it was me, I would repitch another yeast before I bottled it. Rehydrate the yeast in a cup of sterile water and add to the fermenter. Can you get your hands on a decent yeast like Fermentis US-05?

Cheers


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## lano (22/8/10)

Thanks Mate,

I will vist the Brew Shop tomorrow and see what type of yeast I can get.


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## Yob (22/8/10)

have you tasted any of it? Does it still taste sweet from the fermenter? 

If re-pitching a new yeast like the US-05 and you want to re-hydrate, you could run off a 100ml into a sanitised pyrex jug or similar, and rehydrate in your own brew, at those temps you should see action pretty quick if it is still at 1022, at 22'c it would be almost perfect match to pitch.. and you have nothing to lose but a few bucks for the yeast and everything to gain!!!

:icon_cheers:


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## lano (23/8/10)

Added yeast (Safale 05). Started bubbling straight away!

Thanks heaps guys.
???
BTW: Can anyone guess the alc % of this creation???


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## lano (30/8/10)

**UPDATE**

Hi all,

Well I repitched the yeast on 23/8. Has been sitting at 22 degrees for the week and is bubbling very slowly. I have taken another reading and it has not changed (maybe droppped to 1021).

I have been tasting it and it still taste a litlle sweet.

Does anyone have any further tips? Im getting a bit frustrated, I only have 5 (YES 5!) bottles in the fridge!!!!! :unsure:


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## Gopha (30/8/10)

lano said:


> **UPDATE**
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> ...


Patience let it go for another week and if you have a fermentation fridge, cold condition it for two weeks on its lees <2C, you will not be dissapointed -Cheers


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## glaab (30/8/10)

Without reading the whole thread, have you checked your hydrometer? I would only expect it to go down to 1018ish with all that malt extract/ matlodextrin so it might be completely fermed out anyway.


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## lano (30/8/10)

Thanks guys.

Glabb - Hydrometer has been at 1022 - 1021 for the last week.

Still bubbling (slowly). I know I have been told to ignor this but I think; if ther are bubbles then there will be a boom!

I have tasted it and it still tastes sweet. So I assume the sugar has not been fermented out.

I think I will just keen on waiting!


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## pk.sax (30/8/10)

Dunno how good an advice this is, but if that gravity is really not going down at all even at those temps and repitching yeast..... Well, undercarbonate.

i.e. Put less than req amount of sugar to prime for bottling. Once you bottle, that would introduce some oxygen and stir up the beer too. In the bottles it will ferment a little further because of whatever sugars left over. Just to on the safe side with a brew ur not sure of, bottle with less (say half) the priming sugar and bottle in PET bottles (or keg).

Also, regularly monitor your bottles for how much the yeast deposit at the bottom grows. If it's growing significantly larger u know you bottled a little early, might be a good idea to crack one open and check what sort of pressure you get/head the poured beer has.

^above is just plain common sense advice. I'm a noob too, just a whacky scientist type one


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## keifer33 (30/8/10)

Well working on the ingredients you listed and assumption of 23l mix I get

OG	1.060
FG	1.016

With about 6.1% in the bottle as per the spreadsheet calculator.

Id say thats a perfect world ferment and might not reach that but would only expect a few points higher not 6-8 so just be patient and buy another fermenter to do more brews to help the impatience


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## manticle (30/8/10)

Ok - try the fast ferment test that is mentioned part way down on this page. This will help ascertain whether 1021 is too high or the actual finishing gravity. I think 1022 is too high but brew with extract and maltodex will finish higher than a brew that is straight KK. I struggled to get many of my extract brews lower than about 1018 (OG was often 1060+ though).

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...showarticle=130


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## lano (17/9/10)

Hi Brewing Experts!

Well, I have finally (7 weeks later) got the Hyrometer down to about 1015 - 1016. Thats good enough for me!

I am going to bottle tomorrow. Thoughts on sugering bottles - should I use full amount or half (big botts)???

Cheers

LANO


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## pk.sax (17/9/10)

Ur a patient guy. Haha.

Well, with that much waiting already, go full. Or nearly full. ESP if using the plasti bottles. Hope it tastes good too 

Edit: I'm no expert, lol. Just amazed at ur patience of 7 weeks.... Wouldve driven me nuts.


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## lano (17/9/10)

Thanks, Its been a LONG LONG wait!!!!


Im using glass bottles. I will be placing them in a metal esky i've got (really old - almost a fridge - see attached!). This will contain the shrapnel if they blow!

I dont think ill go full sugar!

LANO


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## pk.sax (17/9/10)

lano said:


> Thanks, Its been a LONG LONG wait!!!!
> 
> 
> Im using glass bottles. I will be placing them in a metal esky i've got (really old - almost a fridge - see attached!). This will contain the shrapnel if they blow!
> ...


I think every homebrewer ought to have one of those for sure! OMG, it's a bomb proof beer shelter. If there is a bomb raid at leas the beer is safe


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## dcx3 (17/9/10)

Great patience keep the updates coming im looking forward to seeing how it all turns out im sure youre going to learn heaps just from this one brew


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## lano (14/10/10)

dcx3 wanted an update on this brew...so here it is!

I bottled on the 18th of September and plased in the "blast chamber"! which kept the bottles at a very consistant 21 degrees. I took them out of there a week and a half ago as I needed the esky for a party. I have had NO explosions!!!

I tasted 1 after 2 weeks and it was ok but not great. a bit too sweet (probably bacause of all the BE2 and LME that I added!!). Very dark beer with a brownish head, almost Porter looking.

I had 2 on the weekend just gone and they have got better. Still slightly sweet upfront but a nice bitter finish to them now. Not as hoppy as I thought but ok.

I am hoping that they are good this weekend as I have only "town beer" in the fridge now. Ill give them a nudge on Saturday me thinks!

I will not be doing this again!! but have learnt form this brew. 

Lano


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (14/10/10)

lano said:


> dcx3 wanted an update on this brew...so here it is!
> 
> I bottled on the 18th of September and plased in the "blast chamber"! which kept the bottles at a very consistant 21 degrees. I took them out of there a week and a half ago as I needed the esky for a party. I have had NO explosions!!!
> 
> ...



Lano, 

What did you learn and what won't you be doing again?

I read through the thread and am wondering what you think you've done wrong.

The issue, as I see it about the time for fermentation would be temperature related. At Tamworth, I assume your nighttime temps would be pretty cool. That would not assist your fermentation.

We've had unseasonally cool (and rainy) weather here in Brisbane, and I have a brew down with Nottingham that will be done in a week. It's all grain, but still I would assume that based on ingredients alone, you've done nothing to cause such a long time period except fermentation temps.

Goomba


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## lano (14/10/10)

Hi Mr Goomba,

Thanks for your support here. I agree that the temp would be partially responsible for the fermentation time but also the quantity of fementables added would surely have added to this time. I wont be adding BE2 and LME together again (taste / cost / ferm time). 

This was also the first brew away from just Can / BE2 / stock yeast and thus have learnt a bit about adding hops, malts and the use of differnet yeasts.

manly though, I am not happy with the quality that the brew produced when weighing up the cost and the time it took.

I will contiue to experiment, but I will be taking small steps at a time!

Cheers

Lano


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (14/10/10)

lano said:


> Hi Mr Goomba,
> 
> Thanks for your support here. I agree that the temp would be partially responsible for the fermentation time but also the quantity of fementables added would surely have added to this time. I wont be adding BE2 and LME together again (taste / cost / ferm time).
> 
> ...



G'day Lano,

I have found myself in the same position as you. Otherwise known as the brewing impasse. You get to two options:

1. Your confidence takes a battering and you give up trying things (or give up brewing); or 
2. You keep trying (or even better try something harder and see how to stuff it up).

I used the "brew enhancers" once and once only and concluded that they didn't improve anything. Also the LHBS at the time (I wasn't living here) just had "stout enhancer" or "brew enhancer" and I thought to myself "it could quite easily be flour, cornstarch and icing sugar" - I don't like that.

So I realised that I would prefer to know what junk I put in there. That lead me onto using liquid malt extract to enhance my brews and after, steeping grains to enhance my brews.

This worked for me. I put on a brew with a good tin (morgans, blackrock, etc), extra liquid malt extract, hop t-bags and US-05 yeast.

Then I thought "I'll try those grain bags". So I steeped those and put the resulting liquid into my brew. And used good yeast and hop t-bags. This also worked.

I then thought "those tins are just extract goo and someone else has chosen the hops", so I bought two tins of extract goo unhopped, chose some hops and good yeast and tried that. This worked so well I did this for 10 years.

Now I do All grain Brew in a Bag (BIAB) - I used the guides here to help and lots of research about hop boiling, mashing and yeasts to get the concepts right.

In hindsight, what I'd do differently:

Never use hop tea bags - they are old hops and expensive. The sight sponsor in Brisbane has a massive variety of hop pellets and these are way cheaper per kg.

Moved to AG using the BIAB method quicker. It isn't that hard, though it is far more time consuming than doing an extract brew.

If I may suggest a recipe for you, something along the lines of:

2 tins of extract (if you want a light beer 2 x tins of light coloured or one each of amber and light; if you want a dark beer, one of amber, one of dark)
Nottingham yeast (or US-05) - both are dried. Notts has a high temp tolerance, so should do for your climate (cold nights, warmish days). It should finish in no more than 7-10 days.
East Kent Goldings hops - boil 15g in the wort for 60 minutes, 15g for 15 minutes and 15g dry hopped (chuck in fermenter).
Nelson Sauvin Hops - boil 15g at 30 minutes, 15g at 15 minutes, 15g dry hopped.

This should yield an IBU of 32, BU:GU of .61, which will be a well balanced beer. ABV 5.3%.

The initial cost of hops might seem prohibitive, but then you'll have 30g of each hop left over for another brew (stick it in the freezer). Eventually you'll have such a repetoire of hops in the freezer than you'll buy just the yeast and malt and make a selection from stock on hand.

Hoping this is of benefit and if not, sorry for wasting your time and the forum's time with my musings.

Good luck.


Goomba


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## lano (14/10/10)

Thanks again Mr Goomba

I would love to get to this level one day but hav VERY little knowlege of "BIAB", differnt malts or even boiling hops.

Time is my major hurdle at the moment, so for a few more months (maybe a year), I will stick with what I know (can, BE2/1, hop bag) whilst doing my reasearch on LME brews and BIAB.

My plan is to start kegging after xmas. This will be my next "brewing step"! then I think I will move onto LME + hops + good yeast. I doubt I will ever get passed that, but would be happy to get to there!

Cheers

Lano


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (14/10/10)

lano said:


> Thanks again Mr Goomba
> 
> I would love to get to this level one day but hav VERY little knowlege of "BIAB", differnt malts or even boiling hops.
> 
> ...



No worries mate.

Using LME plus hops plus yeast, is time-wise and methodology wise, identical to doing can plus BE plus hops. The only different is that the goo is unhopped, instead of hopped, so it requires you to calculate the time you want to boil hops. Otherwise identical and virtually no jump in ability or knowledge. I stuck around doing that for a long time, before going AG.

My apologies, as the length of my post probably indicated that it was harder/required more knowledge, than it actually requires to do extract brewing. Eg:

Old methodology:

Boil can goo in water, add BE, add hops.

New methodology:

Boil LME in water, add hops.

*It's the same as what you are already doing!*

So for example, if you were to do the recipe I formulated below, you'd get a decent sized pot on with water and bring it up to the boil (the 19L pots at big W for $19 are good value). 

1 Once boiling, add goo. _(Same)_

2 Once boiling again, add 60 minute hops. Do nothing for 30 minutes.

3 Add 30 minute hops. Do nothing for 15 minutes.

4 Add 15 minute hops, do nothing for 15 minutes.

5 Turn off stove/heat. Put liquid into fermenter, top up to volume required (assuming 23L) _(Same)_, chuck in hops (just chuck 'em in. no bag, nothing. They'll settle into the yeast bed.

6 When temp is ok, add yeast. _(Same)_

Total process takes about 1 1/2 hours. Now, I know as an ex K&K brewer, that you'll already be doing 1, 5 and 6, and quite possibly 2, 3 and/or 4.

So, as long as you are taking about 60-90 minutes to do a brew already, and you are doing most of the above - you already have the skills and the time to do extract brewing.

Sorry if I'm appearing pushy. I wish someone had said to me when I did my first Kit & Kilo brew "dude, all you've got to do is this, and you already have the ability and time to do it. But it will improve your beer out of sight". That's the beauty of AHB, though it didn't exist when I was starting up.


Good luck, have a go. Looking forward to hearing your success stories in the future.

Goomba


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## lano (14/10/10)

Thanks again,

I do very much appreciate the posts. You have almost talked me into it  

I think that you think that I have more skills and experience than I actually have!!!

this is my process at the moment;

1. put can of goo in sink of hot water - 10/15 mins
2. add BE to fermenter with a little hot water - stir to disolve
3. tip in goo (rinsing out can with a little hot water to get the all the good stuff)
4. fill rest with cold water (probably up to 23L but who knows!)
5. put yeast bag in cup of boiling water - 10/15 mins
6. wait for temp if not all ready achieved
7. tip in yeast bag and cup of water
8. add yeast
9. put top on - wait a week 
10. bottle!

So, I am not boiling anything at the moment. wholw thing takes me about 30mins (if that).

Dont despear, i will give your recepie a go.... As soon as I have more bottles, I will try it!

Thanks for all of you assistance.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (14/10/10)

You have adequate skill. Now I've seen your process, it is much easier to comment on why your brew went bung.

It appears as though the reason your yeast didn't ferment very quickly is that you probably killed most of it by putting it into a cup of boiling water. It would have also have affected the taste as well.

Each yeast variety has its own "sweet spot", which can vary between 7-23 degrees C. I choose Nottingham dry yeast, as it has an ideal range of 14-21 degrees C. If you have yeast at too high a temp (like boiling or hot water), it is unlikely to survive. If you have yeast above about 25 degrees, it'll survive, in fact it will rapidly multiply, but it will also give some funky flavours to your beer.

Yeast health and hitting it's perfect range is one of the single biggest time and flavour components to getting beer to taste right. Unfortunately (and this has been a source of debate on the forums), the Coopers tins say "ferment at 25-30 degrees C", when in fact it is way above the ideal temp range for any ale yeast (which coopers yeast is).

So that may be one problem solved.

As for your current process, I'll copy + paste and show you where extract brewing will differ from what you do (in italics):

1. put can of goo in sink of hot water - 10/15 mins - _boil water in pot (takes 5-15 minutes)_.
2. add BE to fermenter with a little hot water - stir to disolve. _Get goo and whack in boiling water._
3. tip in goo (rinsing out can with a little hot water to get the all the good stuff). _Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops at 60 min, 30 min, 15 min per recipe._
4. fill rest with cold water (probably up to 23L but who knows!) _Same_
5. put yeast bag in cup of boiling water - 10/15 mins. _Don't do this (saved 15 minutes)_
6. wait for temp if not all ready achieved. _You may choose to leave it cool down on its own. This is called "no chill". I do it for some of my beers and come back the next morning to unscrew lid and put in yeast packet. This saves time on brew day._
7. tip in yeast bag and cup of water _Don't do_
8. add yeast - _Tip in dry yeast - same_
9. put top on - wait a week _same_
10. bottle! _same_

As for bottles - there are a number of brewers even more experienced than I that use plastic bottles, such as what you get with cheap lemonade in them and re-use them to bottle - Bribie G being one I recall. New caps can be purchased at Big w. So if you drink softdrink already, just save them bottles.

Another time saver - bulk priming. That means when you are ready to bottle, rather than measure out a spoonful and put in each bottle, measure the total you will use (say 30 bottles x 5g per bottle = 150g), boil the kettle, dissolve sugar and pour into fermenter, giving a gentle stir (but try not to stir yeast cake up). This will also allow you to deal with multiple bottle sizes (stubbies, 750 ml, 1.25L plastic), because the sugar has been measured for the total.

Glad to help. I was once a K&K brewer, and like I said, which I'd gone to extract quicker. It was easier than I thought it would be and gave me a massive boost in beer quality and flavour.

Also, once I figured out what hops tasted like what, made it much easier to play with flavours. To make it easier for you - just think - German beer tastes of german hops, english beer tastes of english hops, American Pale Ale - American hops.

I'm going home, so hope to hear of your success, one way or another, very soon.

Goomba


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## pk.sax (14/10/10)

Iano, if you've ever made a risotto, then the process of making beer from extract is not much more involved (or time consuming). You add things at the right times in the cooking process to keep their effect in the end result optimal. That is why he hops going in at different times, longer boil to retain bitterness, shorter boil to retain flavour and even shorter boil to retain aroma. The respective hop oils being extracted and retained(/not boiled off). Especially if someone exp'd gives you a balanced up recipe it's gold  gl on ur adventures, mine is awaiting a hydro test in the laundry


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## fasty73 (14/10/10)

I have used BE1 and BE2 with my cans of Tooheys New and noticed a big change in the malt flavour, didn't like it much so I am sticking to using dextrose. I did a batch with BE1 and Light dry malt, only bottled it 2 days ago, so I have a bit of a wait before I can say what it tastes like. It took 24 days in the fermenter though.


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## Hatchy (15/10/10)

lano said:


> Thanks again,
> 
> I do very much appreciate the posts. You have almost talked me into it
> 
> ...



A couple of suggestions:

1. put can of goo in sink of hot water - 10/15 mins*
1.1 put the kit yeast in the fridge for a rainy day & rehydrate proper bought yeast*
2. add BE to fermenter with a little hot water - stir to dissolve
3. tip in goo (rinsing out can with a little hot water to get the all the good stuff)
4. fill rest with cold water (probably up to 23L but who knows!)
5. put yeast bag in cup of boiling water - 10/15 mins
6. wait for temp if not all ready achieved
7. tip in yeast bag and cup of water
8. add *rehydrated* yeast *& 50g of hops*
9. put top on - wait *until finished*
10. bottle!

Around $20 at a decent HBS for 100g of hops & 2 sachets of yeast will give you 2 batches with subtle changes to yr brewday My suggestions won't make yr brewing take longer but should give you better results.


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## lano (15/10/10)

Sorry guys,

By Yeast bag, I meant HOP BAG (sorry was in a hurry!)

As for bulk primming - im happy doing what I do as far as bottling. Doesnt take much time and I dont believe I have any need to change that process.

I will give the Extract Brew ago. But probably in a few months.

Thanks all for your assistance and suggestions! :icon_cheers: 

LANO


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