# Matho's controller



## MastersBrewery

For those that have read Matho's thread on his Braumiser, love it, but get a little lost when it comes to electronic engineering and programing like myself. I asked the question and a new thread was suggested. So perhaps with a little interest Matho might knock out a couple of these for us. Please!!! Matho a price might not be a bad idea.  Obviously there are other options, like the brewtroller and BCS but the form factor and specific compatibility to single vessel brewing I think make Matho's controller the stand out.
so 1 for me any way


----------



## bignath

Ohhhhhh hell yeah!

Would love one. It would have to be worth his time and effort, but if it's possible, i'd be keen as mustard.

I downloaded all the "build pdf's" but because i'm a complete fucktard with stuff like that, i am having a hard time making sense of it all....inspiring work.


----------



## Cocko

Depending on ease of connection, cost and if it looked cool.. I would be in!


----------



## Tanga

I'd be keen, doubt I could afford it though. But I do have most of the other necessary parts...

Edit: I'm thinking these will probably be up over $100 each to cover parts and at least some of the labour.


----------



## bunyips

Tanga said:


> I'd be keen, doubt I could afford it though. But I do have most of the other necessary parts...
> 
> Edit: I'm thinking these will probably be up over $100 each to cover parts and at least some of the labour.


 Hi,
Have been reading the other thread with great interest as it is stand out stuff. Does anyone know anyone in China who could knock out a few hundred of these controllers. I am sure it may well be a pain in the arse. But you could almost send Tanga on a holiday over there to get the chinese to make them for bugger all and then bring back the finished product for much less than it would cost to have matho use his time and energy. Or does anyone know any really smart nerd kids that are desparate for the World of war three ps3 game. Bribe them and send them to jarcar. 
p.s I am interested in one too. And I have never even done an AG brew.


----------



## Tanga

I'm keen for a free holiday =).

I actually do have an uncle in China who has a good eye for a business opportunity. I have no idea if this is one, but if enough people post in this thread I could at least show it to him. Matho you should probably patent your invention, or some unscrupulous third party could actually do this without bothering to pay royalties.

On second thoughts... It does look as though Matho will be able to bulk program the chips and sell them. If we do a bulk buy on the boards we're most of the way there. Soldering is pretty easy.


----------



## stux

Tanga said:


> I'm keen for a free holiday =).
> 
> I actually do have an uncle in China who has a good eye for a business opportunity. I have no idea if this is one, but if enough people post in this thread I could at least show it to him. Matho you should probably patent your invention, or some unscrupulous third party could actually do this without bothering to pay royalties.
> 
> On second thoughts... It does look as though Matho will be able to bulk program the chips and sell them. If we do a bulk buy on the boards we're most of the way there. Soldering is pretty easy.



Maybe if someone qualified put together the 240V side. Building the logic side might be easy but checking the 240V stuff is not as easy as wiring an STC-1000


----------



## Robbo2234

Yeah I am intrested!


----------



## DaveForbes

This controller is awesome! Would love one


----------



## Zizzle

There a few people on this forum who could make these or something similar.

Suggest you put out an open request rather than hassle Matho.

But then again, anyone able to make them probably would be caught selling them for liability reasons.


----------



## aaronpetersen

Can someone explain to me what Matho's controller can do that a PID controller like this one can't do? I've been planning to get a PID for a while but if Matho's controller is better than I'd definitely be keen to get one.


----------



## sinkas

I'd be up for one, dont know what they really do, but count me in


----------



## QldKev

AaronP said:


> Can someone explain to me what Matho's controller can do that a PID controller like this one can't do? I've been planning to get a PID for a while but if Matho's controller is better than I'd definitely be keen to get one.




It depends.. From what I believe he is using it for, as in to control the heating for the mash, then not much difference. But with other controllers etc you can keep adding to it. I'm going to go the Arduino path, then I can have multiple temp pickups, switch the pump, multiple heating elements and possible a flow meter and solinoids later. But at the moment I know bugger all about the electronics side, and will be learing as I go. 

Also I'm planning on slowly building this up, so I don't expect to get something running for a few months. (my 3V has been in the build since 2009)



QldKev


----------



## ArnieW

I think the way to do this would be to build an arduino shield. That way you get the benefit of a large open source code base (ie. use brewtroller and arduino resources) and start with a standard single vessel base and QldKev or anyone else can customise to their hearts content.

I've thought about doing this before but just don't have the spare time.


----------



## MastersBrewery

ArnieW said:


> I think the way to do this would be to build an arduino shield. That way you get the benefit of a large open source code base (ie. use brewtroller and arduino resources) and start with a standard single vessel base and QldKev or anyone else can customise to their hearts content.
> 
> I've thought about doing this before but just don't have the spare time.




Arnie I've followed your thread on the BT site and agree with the principle above, as single vessel systems are really only recently being put together by home brewers, none of the current controlers were aimed at using a single vessel and I know you had a fair bit of coding and recoding to get BT to work with your system. I unfortunately have no coding skills  What matho has put together is both small form factor and specific to single vessel.


----------



## matho

ok there has been alot of good points.

tanga, I built this for myself and im sharing it with you all, if someone wants to make it a sell it good luck to them, I'm a big believer in karma and also there is nothing to patent.

Arniew your right about the arduino shell, it would work out well as there wouldn't be many parts and ppl can change the program as they like, I have just started to play with arduino's at work to do basic circuit breaker controls and testing.

Zizzle, you are completely right .

If Im going to do this it would be a single board design to reduce the number of connectors because they are pricey, I would supply the board, the parts to go on the board, a programmed chip, lcd screen and a DS18B20 temp sensor. the things that need to be done would be,soldering parts to the board, the box, a 12V power supply, a SSR and the 240v wiring. the wiring would be akin to wiring a stc - 1000 and a PID combined. I still haven't made up my mind if im going to do this, it will take a bit of time to design the board and get it made and order all the parts, I did a quick addition today and it would cost about $50 - 60 plus delivery, I need to work out the design before i could get a more accurate price.

my controller differs from a PID controller in that it controls the heating element and the pump, has a manual and auto mode, a user friendly display with prompts like 'add water' 'remove grain'
up to 5 programmable steps, 5 programmable hop addition alarms and it still has a PID algorithm controlling the heating element.

cheers matho


----------



## barls

am i the only one who read the title and thought what do they want his wife for????


----------



## matho

barls said:


> am i the only one who read the title and thought what do they want his wife for????


hehehe that was the first thing I thought when i read the title too mate, so your not alone


----------



## kymba

would it be worth throwing up a design over at www.ponoko.com? i don't really know anything about electronics, but it looks like they will make a design for you as long as they have the parts. no outlay for matho


----------



## matho

I have been working on a one board layout

View attachment braumister_obos.pdf

single sided layout

View attachment braumister_one_board_bottom.pdf


the bottom layer of a two sided board

View attachment braumister_one_board_top.pdf


the top layer of a two sided board

but i have decided to make up an arduino shield for the braumiser that will work with Bonj's Bonjuino or any arduino board and try to write up a program for it

cheers matho


----------



## Tanga

Good news  Arduino seems like a pretty good system.


----------



## Zizzle

matho said:


> but i have decided to make up an arduino shield for the braumiser that will work with Bonj's Bonjuino or any arduino board and try to write up a program for it



Good choice, a very accessible system, and the code will be much nicer 
If you get stuck, give us a yell.


----------



## kirem

good work matho...oh and bonj.


----------



## Tanga

PS. I didn't really make it clear, but I think it is amazing how Matho, with his already working brewbot, is doing all.that coding again AND learning a new coding system so we can have one too. <3 Thanks man.


----------



## matho

I think ill post my development of the Brauduino in Bonj arduino thread if he doesn't mind as it will be more relevant there.

cheers matho


----------



## matho

so it's taken longer than I had hoped but I have finished developing an arduino based controller, I'm planning on putting together a kit for the shield to plug into an arduino to give a convenient way to connect up the pump, SSR, Buttons and buzzer. With the shield all you will need to make a full functioning controller is 
an arduino uno compliant board ,a box, four pushbuttons, a 12v supply , SSR and various hardware to complete it. 

I have worked out that the shield will cost about $35-$40 , so to make a controller the cost would be around the $150 mark. 

now the reason for this post is to gauge interest in the shield before I go ahead and order the parts and PCB, I'm planning on doing a run of 10

here are some photos of the prototype that I have been using to develop the code








the PCB in the kit will be professionally made so it will be green like the bonjuino plugged into it.

I have finished the code and I have put more features in it than my first controller, like being able to adjust the number of stages from 1 to 9 so that when you come to set the stages you only see the number that you have selected, also up to 8 hop addition alerts, the pump rest should work better and it looks a bit better on the screen.

cheers steve


----------



## kelbygreen

I am interested steve. What will you need to do to assemble it and what tools will you need?? As I wouldnt feel comfortable soldering anything but if its just a matter of plugging things in and then hooking wires and making box for it then thats not a problem.


----------



## matho

mate, there would be soldering involved, just like a jaycar kit but it isn't complicated and I'm planning on putting together a step by step instructions on it to make it easy to put together. The other tool required would be just to cut and drill the box and wire up the SSR and again I'm hoping on including that in the step by step.

cheers steve


----------



## kelbygreen

yeah I mean I prob can solder but the one I have prob wont cut it for fine work lol. If I have to buy a decent one then it may blow the cost out and be easier to get a PID, If I can find some one that will lend me one I should be alright.

sent you a PM anyway to talk further into what I want to do as it wont be in the situation you have it in so to speak but cant see it being a problem for what I want.


----------



## dmac80

kelbygreen said:


> yeah I mean I prob can solder but the one I have prob wont cut it for fine work lol. If I have to buy a decent one then it may blow the cost out and be easier to get a PID, If I can find some one that will lend me one I should be alright.
> 
> sent you a PM anyway to talk further into what I want to do as it wont be in the situation you have it in so to speak but cant see it being a problem for what I want.



I'm sure you know an eleco that could help you out Kelby. If not you can PM me and i can arrange to sort it out for you.

Cheers


----------



## kelbygreen

yeah just in discussion with steve what my best option is as running it on a 3V. Cheers for the offer plenty of guys on here that sure will help me out, and I am sure steve will help me as much as he can, he is a great bloke. I know I could run it on my setup but I guess its best to future proof it as when I run the 40A line to my shed I would prob like to have a electric HLT as well so will have to think about that to.


----------



## blotto

Put me down for one Matho, cheers for your hard work mate :icon_cheers:


----------



## DuaneS

Definitely be interested in one


----------



## lukec

I'd be interested aswell


----------



## BlackRat

Put me down for one.

Cheers,
BlackRat


----------



## matho

cool looks like there is enough interest still for me to start ordering parts, it will hopefully be between 6 to 7 weeks time and I'll have a kit ready

cheers steve


----------



## dkaos

Matho I just had a thought, is it worth getting a deposit for these boards? Just so that you are not left high and dry if someone wants to pull out.

Cheers,

Clint


----------



## matho

Clints Gadgets said:


> Matho I just had a thought, is it worth getting a deposit for these boards? Just so that you are not left high and dry if someone wants to pull out.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Clint


yeah I think it would be a PITA to organise so I'll just have to put up the money and hope to sell them, its not a massive amount of money so its not too risky

cheers


----------



## MastersBrewery

matho, thats an awsome lot of work you've got through to get this done. Super impressed, I started the thread so obviuosly I wanted one too, so you can put me down for one also.


----------



## browndog

I'd like to get hold of a board too Matho.

cheers

Browndog


----------



## booargy

Good work bloke. Can I have one aswell please.

booargy


----------



## marzross

Put me down for one as well.
Thanks cheers Mario


----------



## bradsbrew

Hey Matho, firstly great work mate.

Put me down for one.

Cheers


----------



## ampy

Nice work Matho, I am also interested if there will be any left.

Ampy


----------



## suchidog

Matho definately interested if I can still get one?

Cheers Suchi


----------



## Deebo

Interested. 

Does the shield come with the lcd? (Good value if it does as just and lcd with some buttons is $30 here http://www.freetronics.com/products/lcd-keypad-shield)
Where would I find info on what other components the shield would require (probes/relays etc?) and what it can do/control etc? (are you selling just the shield or also a complete controller?)


----------



## matho

well it looks like Ill be putting more than 10 kits together




Deebo said:


> Interested.
> 
> Does the shield come with the lcd? (Good value if it does as just and lcd with some buttons is $30 here http://www.freetronics.com/products/lcd-keypad-shield)
> Where would I find info on what other components the shield would require (probes/relays etc?) and what it can do/control etc? (are you selling just the shield or also a complete controller?)



deebo,
the shield comes with a LCD screen, I'm going to put together an instructon on putting together the controller but the things you would need are, a IP rated box like THIS, four push buttons like this or this I prefer the first ones as they are IP67 rated but both push buttons have been tested and work well. a 12v switch mode power supply that can be got off ebay for about $5 which should also have enough power to run a brown pump if that is what you want to do, you also need a SSR and heatsink to drive the heating element. Now I'm going to supply a DS18B20 with the kit but to use it you will need to mount it in a thermowell and solder it to a lead. you will also need additional hardware to mount it in the box and wire it up.

What I have set it up to do is to control a brewing system like the braumeister so it controls a heating element with a PID algorithim and also controls a pump, the pump is controlled by a 240v 5 amp relay which will be able to drive a march pump or a 12v brown pump, the contacts of the relay have been brought out to a screw header so you can use it to switch whatever voltage you require. I am only planning on selling a kit for the shield and I'm not in this to make any money just to supply a controller that is accessable to a lot of people. There are about 4 spare pin left on the arduino and I'm thinking of making another shield to bring those pins out to a header so that if you want you can change the code to control more things.

cheers steve


----------



## AndrewQLD

I'm pretty keen as well Matho, looks fantastic for us people that aren't to tech minded.

Andrew


----------



## Smokomark

I am also keen on one of these. Great work developing this Matho


----------



## sponge

I would very well be interested depending upon price. I'm just finishing up making my dual temp controller with just STC's for HX and HLT but have always been interested to go down the PID path but have only had a round a years experience programming PLC's so this would make things much simpler and fool proof.


Sponge


----------



## benno1973

Definitely interested if there's still room!


----------



## Robbo2234

still Interested, Just depends on price.

so if I plan to use a brown pump I just wire in a transformer to the PCB terminals to drop it down to the correct voltage?

THANKS MAN!!!


----------



## adryargument

I'm interested!


----------



## MastersBrewery

Matho, 

I note you have a fair bit of interest, and as you stated in the arduino thread the outlay for a large number of boards is restrictive, coupled with the chance of a minor fault in first run. Perhaps a first run of say 10 'beta' boards, and those with systems ready to go and willing to test could be first off the rank, these testers could then report back any issues if any and a second run of boards with any changes then done, if replacements required for the first 10, should be figured into price - you originaly said about $35-$40 I'd say to give you room to have it fully sorted $50 would cover replacements for the first 10 if needed, if not we really only buying you a beer or two which I think is well deserved :beerbang: 

Mike


----------



## Smokomark

Matho, 

I note you have a fair bit of interest, and as you stated in the arduino thread the outlay for a large number of boards is restrictive, coupled with the chance of a minor fault in first run. Perhaps a first run of say 10 'beta' boards, and those with systems ready to go and willing to test could be first off the rank, these testers could then report back any issues if any and a second run of boards with any changes then done, if replacements required for the first 10, should be figured into price - you originaly said about $35-$40 I'd say to give you room to have it fully sorted $50 would cover replacements for the first 10 if needed, if not we really only buying you a beer or two which I think is well deserved :beerbang: 

Mike


Sounds like a good idea. I am happy to wait a bit , as i'm still collecting other components for my build. Even priced around 50 bucks it is great value.

Mark


----------



## Edak

I have found that if I am producing a batch where cost comes up to nearly 200 dollars, and the best source for parts is digikey. they are damn cheap, have the best range and ship in two days from USA to Australia. The they post free if 200+, otherwise expensive postage.


----------



## matho

Robbo2234 said:


> still Interested, Just depends on price.
> 
> so if I plan to use a brown pump I just wire in a transformer to the PCB terminals to drop it down to the correct voltage?
> 
> THANKS MAN!!!



thats right the relay contact is brought out to 2 screw terminals, so you can bring what ever voltage you need into one terminal and connect the other side to the pump just like a switch



MastersBrewery said:


> Matho,
> 
> I note you have a fair bit of interest, and as you stated in the arduino thread the outlay for a large number of boards is restrictive, coupled with the chance of a minor fault in first run. Perhaps a first run of say 10 'beta' boards, and those with systems ready to go and willing to test could be first off the rank, these testers could then report back any issues if any and a second run of boards with any changes then done, if replacements required for the first 10, should be figured into price - you originaly said about $35-$40 I'd say to give you room to have it fully sorted $50 would cover replacements for the first 10 if needed, if not we really only buying you a beer or two which I think is well deserved :beerbang:
> 
> Mike



I don't really want to charge any more than $40, Ill have to think about it.




Edak said:


> I have found that if I am producing a batch where cost comes up to nearly 200 dollars, and the best source for parts is digikey. they are damn cheap, have the best range and ship in two days from USA to Australia. The they post free if 200+, otherwise expensive postage.


thanks for the heads up


----------



## rodda

Awsome stuff, I would love to have one. Would be willing to pay at least 50 for your work, saves me alot of frustration.


----------



## dkaos

Forget 3V, I want a brauclone!

I'm in Matho.


----------



## Deebo

dont forget the mq-3 alcohol gas sensor that switches the controller to auto mode and doesnt let you push any buttons untill you blow under the required reading...

http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8880


----------



## NickB

I'm interested too. Need a new project to keep me going, just for beers and giggles... Price is not a major concern, as long as it works 

Love your work matho!

Cheers


----------



## kelbygreen

does it do blow over a required reading and under another ie: the sweet spot


----------



## Florian

Hey Matho,

I'm in as well, please. 

Will try to hook this thing up to my 20L BM, could do with a few more mash steps and especially hop alarms, but hope to eventually build a 50L or more copy. 

Cheers,

Florian


----------



## NickB

There's a cheap shop near here that sells Chinese stainless pots for not much. Would make very good malt pipes, if not BM clones themselves...



Cheers


----------



## kelbygreen

steve has done a great job on this unit and I wish I could grab one but with talking with him on my setup and what I want to do it wont work (as I am 3v and want to control 2 vessels or more) and I prob could build one if I put my mind to it but dont have the time or money to go stuffing around with something I may **** up lol. I think every one is very lucky and steve is doing this more for love then profit so if it doesnt work for you I hope you dont expect him to give you your money back. If in doubt ask him he is a great bloke and he will be upfront with you. 

I would hate to see this blow up in his face as he has put little to no margin in the prices and has not allowed for the week or months he spent on this so just be thankful some one is willing to do all the hard work and give you a product that you could get (if you had the knowledge) and at a price that would be what you pay for it. So you get the deal and the hard work done for free. 

Steve I hope this works out for you mate. Your a good bloke and hate to see anything come back on you as I know you are doing it for the love not money. If or when you come up with something to suit my rig I will gladly pay for it and you can drink as many of my beers when we meet up


----------



## Florian

Cheers Nick, will have a chat at BABBs.

Kelby, I don't think anyone here would chuck a tantrum if they 'lost' $40 in the process, after all we've all been picking matho's brain and leeching of his ideas.

Besides that, I'm sure it'll work out anyway.


----------



## kelbygreen

I am sure it will, But just letting people know he is not making money off it. If he put his time into it then it would prob be worth $200 a piece. I wish I had that tallent and to give it away for free almost people should be grateful. I am sure alot or all are but you do get the odd few that will screw you over no matter what. I know its happened to me several times, Why I would think twice about doing something like this


----------



## matho

thanks for the concern and kind words kelby, I'm hoping everyone that gets one will be happy with it

cheers steve


----------



## fcmcg

Matho,
What was the final cost...and what are my chances of getting on board ?
Seems After re-reading your thread , i'm envios and wouldn't mind one..with plans to maybe build a 50 litre jobby ?
If i have missed out...so be it...
BTW..Karma should come in spades to you , for your genorosity...
Cheers
Ferg


----------



## matho

fergthebrewer said:


> Matho,
> What was the final cost...and what are my chances of getting on board ?
> Seems After re-reading your thread , i'm envios and wouldn't mind one..with plans to maybe build a 50 litre jobby ?
> If i have missed out...so be it...
> BTW..Karma should come in spades to you , for your genorosity...
> Cheers
> Ferg



hey ferg,

my plan at the moment is to make 10 up and see how they go, if all is good I'll put an order in for the rest, I don't want anyone to miss out but I also don't want this to take up too much of my time. Once I have made the first 10 and all is good Ill post the PCB deign so anyone can take that design to the PCB manufacturer and get boards made up, I have tried to pick parts that are easy to source so it wouldn't be hard for a group of people to get 10 boards made up and put kits together.
So the plan is make 10 up see how they go then do the rest of the intial demand, the only thing I don't want to be doing is constant orders as this isn't a bussiness for me just a hobby.

cheers

steve


----------



## matho

ordered the parts today, I have received 10 white on blue LCD screens and I have ordered 10 ds18b20 sensors. When I get the parts I can check a few things on the board design like clearances and pin alignment and after that Ill be able to order the boards. I have done some design changes to the board I have added two jumpers to select between 5v and 12v control voltages for the relay because I can order the 12v versions but littlebirds electronics only stocks 5v. I am trying to design the board so the parts are easy to get.






cheers steve


----------



## porky

I buy things from this service in china. 

I found these if anyone is interested. (relays for arduino)

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?Search...=0&manual=y


----------



## matho

budwiser said:


> I buy things from this service in china.
> 
> I found these if anyone is interested. (relays for arduino)
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?Search...=0&manual=y



cool website, now if I could only sell 1000 control units I would be set



cheers steve


----------



## dkaos

Lol, at that price, just buy 1000 anyway! it's only $100. Although shipping would suck. Thanks for the update Matho, can't wait to get this.


----------



## matho

yep no worries, I have received some of the parts I have ordered but not the ones i need to check out the board, they should be arriving next week sometime, I have also ordered a SSR and 12v power supply so I can put together a unit and take pictures while im doing it for an assembly instruction to make it easier for ppl.

cheers steve


----------



## iralosavic

I don't have a free $150 at the moment, so I won't screw you around putting my name down, but I hope your parts list and instructions are within my ability to put together - absolutely love your work. Cheers


----------



## matho

iralosavic said:


> I don't have a free $150 at the moment, so I won't screw you around putting my name down, but I hope your parts list and instructions are within my ability to put together - absolutely love your work. Cheers



thats cool, the plan I have at the moment is to get 10 kits made up and if the PCB turns out OK ill be ordering 50 PCB's which out of that I'll make up 20 kits and offer the rest of the PCB's ( about 30) for sale so that people can make up their own kits. The assembly should be to hard, tools required would be a drill, a file screw drivers, wire striper or similar and of course a soldering iron.

cheers


----------



## matho

the rest of the parts turned up today, glad I waited as the part I had concerns about was reversed on the PCB, now that has been sorted and its been checked 100 times I think I'm ready to order the first 10 PCB's, so hopefully not long now 

cheers steve


----------



## BlackRat

matho said:


> the rest of the parts turned up today, glad I waited as the part I had concerns about was reversed on the PCB, now that has been sorted and its been checked 100 times I think I'm ready to order the first 10 PCB's, so hopefully not long now
> 
> cheers steve



Great news Matho!


----------



## matho

I'm starting to put together instructions on building a controller and I had put together a connection diagram for use with a 12v pump

View attachment 12v_pump_connection.pdf


I'm just checking does this make sense everyone.

cheers

steve


----------



## bonj

matho said:


> I'm starting to put together instructions on building a controller and I had put together a connection diagram for use with a 12v pump
> 
> View attachment 54257
> 
> 
> I'm just checking does this make sense everyone.
> 
> cheers
> 
> steve


Makes sense to me, matho. Did I spy an order number on that PCB in the pdf?


----------



## matho

Bonj said:


> Makes sense to me, matho. Did I spy an order number on that PCB in the pdf?



yeah mate did it last night


----------



## dkaos

Hey Steve,

Looks pretty sweet mate, where the wires come off the power supply into the SSR is a bit strange though, how do we wire that up? Looks like we have to split the wire off the 12V DC supply.


----------



## dmac80

Steve,

The wiring all looks good to me mate, can't see any issues.

Cheers


----------



## matho

does this one make it clearer 

View attachment 12v_pump_connection.pdf


the brown and blue wires connected to the SSR and power supply is 240v ac, I changed the colour of the dc wires to the SSR because there was too much red and black. Maybe I should split the drawing up into connections to the PCB and the AC side of things

cheers 

steve


----------



## matho

dmac said:


> Steve,
> 
> The wiring all looks good to me mate, can't see any issues.
> 
> Cheers



thanks for that, I'm trying to make it as easy to follow as I can for the no electrical people out there.

cheers steve


----------



## Sam England

Matho,
If there's room on the list I'd love to grab one as well. Due to numerous other partly finished brewing/non- brewing projects I probably won't be much use at testing the first boards but I'd be keen to jump on the second round. If you want, PM me your bank details and I'd be happy to fire through $50 as a deposit/payment.
I'd started developing my own system in Picaxe, but at this price you've now killed all of my enthusiasm to do it myself and probably saved my marriage!!! (I assume that's a good thing??)

Cheers for all your work.
Sam


----------



## blotto

matho said:


> thanks for that, I'm trying to make it as easy to follow as I can for the no electrical people out there.
> 
> cheers steve



I'd say the second drawing is easier to read for the non-electrical minded among us.

Good job Steve


----------



## matho

Wort said:


> I'd say the second drawing is easier to read for the non-electrical minded among us.
> 
> Good job Steve



cool thanks for the feedback thats what I want to know


----------



## Yorg

Can I get one too Matho?


----------



## matho

yep no worries yorg, I have counted 30 so far including yourself. I was planing on ordering 60 PCB's in total but only make up 30 kits, the minimum amount of kits I can make up is 10 because some parts can only be ordered in lots of 10's. If it gets closer to 40 I might make up 40.

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

Bear in mind matho, that you'll likely get quite a few people drop out when it comes time to part with their cash.


----------



## matho

Bonj said:


> Bear in mind matho, that you'll likely get quite a few people drop out when it comes time to part with their cash.



yeah good point mate


----------



## Whiteferret

matho said:


> yep no worries yorg, I have counted 30 so far including yourself. I was planing on ordering 60 PCB's in total but only make up 30 kits, the minimum amount of kits I can make up is 10 because some parts can only be ordered in lots of 10's. If it gets closer to 40 I might make up 40.
> 
> cheers steve




Count me in to Matho. If you dont get the numbers for 40 a PCB is fine for me I've probably got most of the bits already and can dig up what I dont have.


----------



## Yorg

matho said:


> yep no worries yorg, I have counted 30 so far including yourself. I was planing on ordering 60 PCB's in total but only make up 30 kits, the minimum amount of kits I can make up is 10 because some parts can only be ordered in lots of 10's. If it gets closer to 40 I might make up 40.
> 
> cheers steve



Brilliant.
I don't check in here that much, but rest assured I am definitely in and ready to fork out for the most complete option - my soldering skills are, eh, rusty.


----------



## ArnieW

Nice work all round Matho. I'd be in for one as well, although I'm in no hurry at all, so second round is fine. My clone has been running for about 18 months now on a modified brewtroller. I'd be keen to work with something a little more targetted to single vessel, and something much simpler than the BT system.

cheers, Arnie

@Yorg: as an ex-electronics techie, I can help out with soldering if need be Yorg.


----------



## hirns

Bonj said:


> Bear in mind matho, that you'll likely get quite a few people drop out when it comes time to part with their cash.




Steve,

Don't put me down for a unit, but I will go income protection for you! I'll take/buy the first $150 unit that someone fails to cough up for as added protection (No, I won't change my name to Condom Man!) I'll sit it in the shed or worst case I'll try to flog it off later, you may even refer a buyer. I've also got most of the skills but not the time at the moment, but I'm overwhelmed with respect for your piece of work  .


----------



## dkaos

Hey Matho,
Just wondering how long you think it will be before all this stuff is ready to go? I still need to get everything except the two pots,and the STC-1000. I would like to do it all properly, but I might start brewing without the controller to just get a normal recirc mash going and get an idea of the process.


----------



## matho

I just got an email saying my 10 PCB's has been shipped so it has taken about 9 days but that was over a weekend and on they day I sent the order the had a public holiday. I'm now have to wait for shipping which I have been told could take up to 20 days. When I get them I'll check them out and if its OK Ill order the rest. Hope this answers your question, I really don't know an exact time.

thanks Arnie, I only found your blog after I started my build, I think your braubushka is awesome. :beerbang: 

cheers steve


----------



## dkaos

Hey Steve,
All good mate. It's a ballpark and that's all I really needed. 

Cheers,

Clint


----------



## fcmcg

So matho...
do we need to make a list for your controller and associated paraphenalia?
Cheers
F


----------



## ArnieW

matho said:


> thanks Arnie, I only found your blog after I started my build, I think your braubushka is awesome. :beerbang:
> 
> cheers steve


If you'd like an independent test build of a kit and/or some coding ideas or tweaks send me a pm.


----------



## chrisgill33

Hi Matho,

Fantastic work you're doing here. *cough* If there's any additional available, could I join the growing queue of people who love your work and want Tyo buy a kit, or controller, to build an automated setup.

Thanks
-CHRIS

PS. If this is all cool, I can transfer you cash when you're going to order the next lot.


----------



## matho

I have been making up a box so I can take photos for a how-to instruction manual while I'm waiting for the boards to arrive, here is one of the photos





Just a quick note everything in the photo *WILL NOT* be included in the kit and you will have to source the parts and do the wiring yourself. I will try and make the how-to instructions as easy as possible.

cheers steve


----------



## MastersBrewery

matho said:


> I have been making up a box so I can take photos for a how-to instruction manual while I'm waiting for the boards to arrive, here is one of the photos
> 
> View attachment 54613
> 
> 
> Just a quick note everything in the photo *WILL NOT* be included in the kit and you will have to source the parts and do the wiring yourself. I will try and make the how-to instructions as easy as possible.
> 
> cheers steve




awwwe look at all the perty coloUrs  will make following them alot easier. thanx matho


----------



## Florian

That's looking great, Steve!

I've now got the controller for my original BM on extension leads with waterproof connectors. That way i can sit the controller somewhere more accessible like a bench while brewing and it also makes cleaning easier.

added Bonus is that i can now plug any controller onto the extension leads, meaning the path to hook up your's is Set, already have a Set of spare connectors.

Not sure what number I'm on your list but would be great if i could get One of your 'as complete as they get kits'.

cheers


----------



## hosko11

Florian said:


> That's looking great, Steve!
> 
> I've now got the controller for my original BM on extension leads with waterproof connectors. That way i can sit the controller somewhere more accessible like a bench while brewing and it also makes cleaning easier.
> 
> added Bonus is that i can now plug any controller onto the extension leads, meaning the path to hook up your's is Set, already have a Set of spare connectors.
> 
> Not sure what number I'm on your list but would be great if i could get One of your 'as complete as they get kits'.
> 
> cheers



Hey Florian,
What waterproof connectors did you use and where did you get them? I want to make the controller separate from the pot as well.
Cheers,
Hosko


----------



## matho

Florian said:


> That's looking great, Steve!
> 
> I've now got the controller for my original BM on extension leads with waterproof connectors. That way i can sit the controller somewhere more accessible like a bench while brewing and it also makes cleaning easier.
> 
> added Bonus is that i can now plug any controller onto the extension leads, meaning the path to hook up your's is Set, already have a Set of spare connectors.
> 
> Not sure what number I'm on your list but would be great if i could get One of your 'as complete as they get kits'.
> 
> cheers
> 
> View attachment 54614



hey Florian,

when you mentioned that you wanted to hook up a BM to the brauduino I went on a search for the connector that the BM use. They look like hasting connectors and they are not cheap ($26 each) but now you have done this it doesn't matter. The only issue I can see now is the temperature sensor I'm using a DS18B20 but I don't know what the BM uses, if you can find out I can work out a way to use it for the brauduino or if you can remove it then measure it up and I might be able to help with making up a thermowell to fit the hole.

cheers steve


----------



## matho

well the first 10 PCB's arrived today and they look good




now I'll have to finish off the assembly instruction and put one together to see if it works and then PM the first 10 on the list early next week probably 

now the fun begins 

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

matho said:


> well the first 10 PCB's arrived today and they look good
> 
> View attachment 54624
> 
> 
> now I'll have to finish off the assembly instruction and put one together to see if it works and then PM the first 10 on the list early next week probably
> 
> now the fun begins
> 
> cheers steve


That looks awesome, matho! (arrived in record time too... my PCBs arrived 15 days from order! And I ordered mine the day after yours.... must have done ours in the same batch or something)


----------



## NickB

:beerbang: :super:


----------



## matho

yeah I'm really happy with how they turned out I'll be putting one together tonight to see how it goes


----------



## Florian

Hey Matho and Ppp,

the connectors are from jaycar, have taken a few pics Last night.


----------



## Florian

Hate posting on the phone...

here's another of the bottom.




And the original BM plugs.
you're right, they look expensive. Thanks for looking into them though.



Not sure about the temp Probe yet, will have another look. You basically mean that if they're different, the Probe might Not be able to communicate with the Brauduino?


----------



## matho

Florian said:


> Not sure about the temp Probe yet, will have another look. You basically mean that if they're different, the Probe might Not be able to communicate with the Brauduino?


Florian,
the problem is not knowing what type it is, if I knew then we could work out how to use it, the other option is to unscrew it from the BM and make up a thermowell that will fit in its place. From the photo's it looks like the temperature sensor has 3 wires is that right?


So I have soldered up a board to see if they are OK and so far so good it took me about 40min (with taking photos) to solder it up here are some of the photos

what you get after soldering up the kit








it lives




bonjuino meets the brauduino shield 




cheers steve


----------



## MastersBrewery

at this rate steve you'll make AHB memeber of the year hands down :kooi: Looks like a very sweet bit of kit.


----------



## Edak

Hmm a three wire sensor could be many things.. 

I am betting that it is an RTD 

measure the resistance between each wire (three measurements), if it is an RTD then you will have two measurements basically the same possibly near 100 ohm, and one of close to zero


----------



## Florian

Yep, three wires. Took some close ups, will attempt to take the thing apart Sunday night or Monday to have a closer look.


----------



## bonj

MastersBrewery said:


> at this rate steve you'll make AHB member of the year hands down :kooi: Looks like a very sweet bit of kit.


+1 on AHB member of the year!


----------



## matho

Bonj said:


> It's like watching your children grow up.... I'm so gay and proud of it



I thought you would like that shot


----------



## matho

If you follow the instructions that I'm making up you should end up with something that looks like this








using a manufactured boards, a switchmode power supply and a SSR has made the internals a lot neater




Note: the kit I'm making up is only for the shield, all the other parts like the box, push buttons, heatsink, SSR, power supply and connectors will have to be sourced by yourself. Even though I will be supplying instructions on wiring the unit all 240V wiring should be check by a qualified person before use


----------



## bignath

Thats a thing of beauty mate!

Very impressed....


----------



## bonj

That looks awesome, metho!


----------



## kirem

Bonj said:


> It's like watching your children grow up.... I'm so gay and proud of it



nice work gays (sic).


----------



## matho

Big Nath said:


> Thats a thing of beauty mate!
> 
> Very impressed....






Bonj said:


> That looks awesome, metho!



Thanks guys



kirem said:


> nice work gays (sic).



:lol: 

Oh and if anyone is wondering about this unit I built, it is already spoken for cause I'm building another braumiser for a mate of mine who lives in the city and doesn't have enough room for a large brewery. This braumiser will have a brown pump instead of a march pump and maybe a slightly larger malt pipe.

cheers steve


----------



## Yorg

While I'm waiting patiently in line, I'm getting a Crown Urn and a 'Brown Pump' - not the most exiting name for a bit of kit.
Has this pump been discussed before on another thread - don't want to divert this one - eg. can it be throttled back on outlet like a march, can it pass small particles....?


----------



## frostih

Hi Matho,

I'm new to AHB, I just move to Australia a month ago. I planed to make clone of the BM using Arduino controller to control it so I'm very pleased to see what you have done, it's practically what I was aiming for. I came across your this thread by searching on Google. 

Is there still a change of getting one kit and maybe one bear PCB? I will won't need it the first shipment of ten which you had made since I haven't assembled the brewing unit yet. 

I was planning on making one with a TFT touch screen and a SD card (camera card) to save information of the process and things like that, but that is a long way down the line. I guess that I'll need an Arduino mega for that. Where did you get the PCB printed?

Any way count me in if there are still some available.


Cheers, 
Frosti.


----------



## matho

frostih said:


> Hi Matho,
> 
> I'm new to AHB, I just move to Australia a month ago. I planed to make clone of the BM using Arduino controller to control it so I'm very pleased to see what you have done, it's practically what I was aiming for. I came across your this thread by searching on Google.
> 
> Is there still a change of getting one kit and maybe one bear PCB? I will won't need it the first shipment of ten which you had made since I haven't assembled the brewing unit yet.
> 
> I was planning on making one with a TFT touch screen and a SD card (camera card) to save information of the process and things like that, but that is a long way down the line. I guess that I'll need an Arduino mega for that. Where did you get the PCB printed?
> 
> Any way count me in if there are still some available.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Frosti.



hey frostih,

first of all welcome to AHB, this is a great site with a good bunch of brewer.

I will definitely have spare PCB's, if anyone drops of the list of 30 then you will be next, I got the PCB's made up HERE, they are very good with communication and do a good price.

HERE is the link to the latest code for the brauduino if you missed it 
it complies to about 14.6k which leaves a bit of space but not much

cheers steve


----------



## matho

Yorg said:


> While I'm waiting patiently in line, I'm getting a Crown Urn and a 'Brown Pump' - not the most exiting name for a bit of kit.
> Has this pump been discussed before on another thread - don't want to divert this one - eg. can it be throttled back on outlet like a march, can it pass small particles....?



hey yorg the brown pump can be throttled back just like the march pump but I don't know how well the handle small particles maybe someone who has used one could comment

cheers steve


----------



## bignath

matho said:


> hey yorg the brown pump can be throttled back just like the march pump but I don't know how well the handle small particles maybe someone who has used one could comment
> 
> cheers steve



yeah, i'm sure they can be throttled back too. They can handle some debris, just probably not heaps of it...not sure about if a march can or not, never used one.

Last brewday with my brown pump, i pulled the impeller housing off the pump to have a look inside to see if it needed cleaning, and there was a (single) grain husk caught in the blades. Didn't affect the operation of the pump as far as i could tell. The brewday went well (besides blowing an element but that's another well covered story in another thread) and i only discovered the grain husk upon opening the pump out of curiosity...


----------



## Malted

Big Nath said:


> They can handle some debris, just probably not heaps of it...not sure about if a march can or not, never used one.



I have had whole hop cones in my 809 March pump in the 3V system. They will make a bit of noise but if you close off the flow they will chew them (whole hop cones) up and then will pass through when you re-open the flow. Smaller bits of hop cones and grains etc pass through no worries, it may make a jitter or a noise but will pass through. 

The only concern I would have with using a March pump is that the motor end is not a sealed unit. The Braumeister pump is a sealed unit and is thus convienient for cleaning purposes, you just drag the BM out and hose it down. You would have to be a bit more precise than that when cleaning a Braumiser with a March pump. Not a deal breaker, just something to be aware of (i.e a splash shield etc).


----------



## seamad

I use a 12 VDC march which is sealed. However the pump is attached to the urn with a union nut, just undo it and remove to clean. Thanks malted cause i think it was your post with the union nut link.
cheers
sean

Union nut on top of pump.


----------



## Yorg

Where can I get the union nuts?


----------



## bonj

Yorg said:


> Where can I get the union nuts?


That sounds so gay....


----------



## bonj

not that there's anything wrong with that


----------



## BlackRat

Looking great matho.....cant wait to see the results of the first test.

BlackRat.


----------



## matho

I should find time on friday to run the unit on my hlt and I'll hook up a 12v pump to recirc the water to fully test it out.

I'll be sending out PM's as soon as I have finished the instructions 

cheers steve


----------



## BlackRat

matho said:


> I should find time on friday to run the unit on my hlt and I'll hook up a 12v pump to recirc the water to fully test it out.
> 
> I'll be sending out PM's as soon as I have finished the instructions
> 
> cheers steve



Great news Steve!

Have you arrived at a cost? And a final ball park build cost?


----------



## seamad

Yorg, link is post #385 on braumeister nexgen build thread.
sorry for straying OT
cheers,sean


----------



## matho

Ok so the price of the kit will be $45 which includes postage to anywhere in australia.

The total cost of the build is hard to say as it depends on your choices but to build the box in the picture
it cost

Kit $45
Bonjuino $22.50
12v powersupply $7 Ebay
SSR $4.95 Ebay
BOX $23.95 jaycar HB6224
IEC power Male $4.95 jaycar PP4009
IEC power female $4.95 jaycar PS4002
3 x black pushbuttons $14.85 jaycar SP0656
1 x red pushbutton $4.95 jayacr SP0657
2 pin connector M $2.95 jaycar PP2013
4 pin connector M $2.95 jaycar PP2010
2 pin connector F $2.95 jaycar PS2014
4 pin connector F $2.95 jaycar PS2012
Heatsink $8.95 jaycar HH8572
---------------------------------------------------
total: $153.85

tools required:
wire cutters/strippers
fine point soldering iron
drill and drill bits 
hacksaw and files

now there will be extra costs like wires, heatshrink, heatsink compound and mounting standoffs and screws
I used wires off an old ATA PC powersupply which were 18awg and V90 rated which is good for 300v and 15amps

cheers steve


----------



## dkaos

If there are 30 people going to require this gear imagine what kind of pricing we could get if a bulk buy was arranged!

Thanks Matho for all your hard work on this, the photo's have been tops and the breakdown of parts has been super helpful as well.

Clint


----------



## iralosavic

Do you sell the Bonjuino or where is it procured from?

Thanks for putting the list together - I'm sure your how-to instructions will be easy to follow. Cheers


----------



## bonj

iralosavic said:


> Do you sell the Bonjuino or where is it procured from?
> 
> Thanks for putting the list together - I'm sure your how-to instructions will be easy to follow. Cheers


iralosavic, I sell the Bonjuino as a kit. There is a link in my signature below. Alternatively, any arduino or clone with the same form factor as the official board, will fit the shield. 

Please note that I currently have 4 Bonjuino kits available. When they are gone, I will need a 2-3 week lead time to produce more.


----------



## bonj

Make that 3 kits...


----------



## fraser_john

Clints Gadgets said:


> If there are 30 people going to require this gear imagine what kind of pricing we could get if a bulk buy was arranged!
> 
> Thanks Matho for all your hard work on this, the photo's have been tops and the breakdown of parts has been super helpful as well.
> 
> Clint



Even better would be for Matho to contact a Chinese manufacturer and tell them what to build, quality control it (hard part) and then sell it globally for less than $100!

Hop to it Matho  

Phase 1 - Collect parts
Phase 2 - ?
Phase 3 - Profit


----------



## bonj

2 bonjuino kits left


----------



## ampy

Bonj said:


> 2 bonjuino kits left


Should be one left now, unless I missed out, just purchased one.


----------



## bonj

ampy said:


> Should be one left now, unless I missed out, just purchased one.


You're correct. 

*1 bonjuino kit left.*

Currently pricing up another run of 10. I can do more than 10 if I get definite orders.


----------



## Yorg

Bonj, Definite order. Tell me how to pay.

Matho, you've registered my order right?

So to be clear: the bonj from bonj, the kit from matho and the rest I can sort out with jaycar or eBay? Then that's all I need to build it?


----------



## matho

Yorg said:


> Bonj, Definite order. Tell me how to pay.
> 
> Matho, you've registered my order right?
> 
> So to be clear: the bonj from bonj, the kit from matho and the rest I can sort out with jaycar or eBay? Then that's all I need to build it?



spot on Yorg, you are on the list for the second order so thats cool.

I have made up a PDF showing what you get in the kit so there is no confusion

View attachment brauduino_parts_list.pdf


cheers steve


----------



## bonj

I feel that I should make sure everyone knows that in order to program a bonjuino, one needs either a programming cable such as this, or a breakout/dongle such as this or this (cheaper option).

Except for today's first sale, which is already posted (sorry mate, we'll sort something out for you if you need it), I will flash the current version of matho's code to the chip so the programmer won't be necessary unless you want to modify the code.


----------



## matho

Bonj said:


> I will flash the current version of matho's code to the chip so the programmer won't be necessary unless you want to modify the code.



:super:


----------



## bonj

Yorg said:


> Bonj, Definite order. Tell me how to pay.
> 
> Matho, you've registered my order right?
> 
> So to be clear: the bonj from bonj, the kit from matho and the rest I can sort out with jaycar or eBay? Then that's all I need to build it?


Yorg, the link is in my sig below: http://www.bigfathooker.com/bfh/bonjuino.php

make sure you read the description on the page before you decide to order because there are a couple of surface mount components there.
Alternatively, you might wish to wait for the next batch, which will have the surface mount caps replaced with through-hole versions.

Up to you.


----------



## iralosavic

Bonj said:


> Yorg, the link is in my sig below: http://www.bigfathooker.com/bfh/bonjuino.php
> 
> make sure you read the description on the page before you decide to order because there are a couple of surface mount components there.
> Alternatively, you might wish to wait for the next batch, which will have the surface mount caps replaced with through-hole versions.
> 
> Up to you.



Looks like you'd want to be better than I am at soldering in order to attempt these kits!


----------



## matho

fraser_john said:


> Even better would be for Matho to contact a Chinese manufacturer and tell them what to build, quality control it (hard part) and then sell it globally for less than $100!
> 
> Hop to it Matho
> 
> Phase 1 - Collect parts
> Phase 2 - ?
> Phase 3 - Profit



shhhhh! John, my plan for world domination is a secret. Just one step at a time. mehehehehe!


----------



## [email protected]

Matho,Brilliant work mate, well done.Would your kit be suitable for a double batch set up? I want to build something like this with a final volume of beer of 40 liters - ie 2 kegs. I guess I will need pot of approx 60 - 70 liters to achiev this.
Cheers


----------



## bonj

Currently have *2* Bonjuino rv1 Bonjuino boards left.


----------



## matho

Swampy said:


> Matho,Brilliant work mate, well done.Would your kit be suitable for a double batch set up? I want to build something like this with a final volume of beer of 40 liters - ie 2 kegs. I guess I will need pot of approx 60 - 70 liters to achiev this.
> Cheers



the controller has been designed to control a braumeister style brewing system so if that is what your planing to build then it will work, I have a 25amp SSR in the box but you could go with a 40Amp one (might need a bigger heatsink) and it will be right to control at least a 3600w element, the relay that controls the pump is rated at 240vAC 5 amps / 30vDC 5 amp so it should be right to control a couple of pumps too. The unit controls the SSR and its the SSR that carries the current so the unit can control what ever current the SSR can handle

cheers steve


----------



## [email protected]

Thanks Matho for the quick reply,I am not very electrically minded, but I think I understand what you mean. So the 40 amp SSR just needs a bigger diameter wire and heat shrink to run my proposed system.I want to pretty much copy your brilliant set up, just bigger. As it's one vessel, it will only need one pump right? ....you mentioned pumps that's why I am checking.

..........oh and by the way, can you please put me down for one of your kits too please?
Bonj - can you put me down for one of your kits as well please?
Once again, great work
Cheers
Swampy


----------



## bonj

Swampy said:


> Thanks Matho for the quick reply,I am not very electrically minded, but I think I understand what you mean. So the 40 amp SSR just needs a bigger diameter wire and heat shrink to run my proposed system.I want to pretty much copy your brilliant set up, just bigger. As it's one vessel, it will only need one pump right? ....you mentioned pumps that's why I am checking.
> 
> ..........oh and by the way, can you please put me down for one of your kits too please?
> Bonj - can you put me down for one of your kits as well please?
> Once again, great work
> Cheers
> Swampy


Swampy, the link to the kits is here. Make sure you read the description and understand specifically about the surface mount components. If you doubt your ability to do the surface mount stuff, then you're better off waiting for the next batch which is all through-hole.


----------



## [email protected]

G'day Bonj, 
Ok thanks, I will wait if that's ok. Can you msg me when they are available?
Thanks
swampy


----------



## bonj

Just put the orders in for 10x revision 2 Bonjuinos. Price will be slightly higher this time around... around the $26 mark including shipping within Australia

Still have 2x revision 1 boards left at $23 each. Link below.


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Matho,I am looking at a 12v power supply as per your list.Is 8 A 96 w suitable?
I have got the jaycar stuff on order, all were easily available as per your list.
Great work, I look forward to receiving your kit. awaiting on Bonj for the next version Bonj kits.
Do you think I will need 2 pumps for a double batch system? 
Cheers. 
Swampy


----------



## matho

with you wanting one swampy that has taken the total number of interested people to 36, I was only going to do 30 but have been thinking that if demand is still there I might take it to 40, the first 10 is waiting to go I just have to test the unit and finish writing up the instructions. When I have finished the instructions I'll be asking everyone to read them carefully and to decide if they have the skills to build this unit, remember that to have a working controller will require 240V wiring and this wiring must be checked by a qualified person, you don't want to be stuffing around with 240v if you don't know what your doing. 

Swampy the size of the 12v power supply will depend on what you want it to supply, if it is just to supply the brauduino shield then it can be small like 12w or 12v at 1 amp. If you are going to use 12v pump(s) then you will need a larger wattage to drive it, my unit will have unit 1 brown pump so I went with a 24w power supply. I would think that 1 march pump would be ample or maybe 2 brown pumps, if your driving a march pump then you won't need a big 12v power supply as a march pump is 240v and you will need to wire up the relay to switch that 240v.

cheers steve


----------



## Sam England

Just a heads up for anyone that's after a Brown Pump for Matho's unit. Leahy268's doing the legwork and organising a Bulk Buy of both the 24V and 12V versions.
Cheers,
BB


----------



## [email protected]

Hi Steve,Thanks for the reply and the patience for this electrical neanderthal .
I will now run all 24 v pumps and heater as I think it will be easier. I have a mate who is an electrician, he will do the 240v stuff for me. Plus, I can then go bigger, I am looking at Tony's plans with a lot of interest.So that way, I will only have to use 12 v for the shield.

What is the difference between Tony's programming solution compared to yours? Do they do exactly the same? Or is one more manual than the other?
CheersSwampy


----------



## blotto

What size soldering iron do I need? I melted a track off the pcb I made using my current one but it's a gas jobbie that is more suited to soldering quite large cables together  what do you think matho? 15w or 30w or hotter?


----------



## matho

hey wort I have been using THIS one with great success set to about 340 deg but a 15w to 25w fine tipped soldering would be fine.

so here is the PCB assembly instructions, the instructions to assemble the box will come later

View attachment Brauduino_PCB_assembly.pdf


tell me if it makes sense

cheers steve


----------



## Florian

Looks good matho, had a quick read and it seems very easy to follow even for noobs like me. Have soldered quite a bit before but mostly attaching connectors to cabling and stuff like that. Should be all good, looking forward to it now.


----------



## ampy

Looks good matho.


----------



## iralosavic

Will there be a more expensive already assembled option for those of us who lack the skills required? I'd give it a go either way, but Murphys law tends to haunt me with things like this.


----------



## blotto

Yeah that PDF is easy to read good job matho. Looks like another trip to jaycar sweet


----------



## ampy

iralosavic said:


> Will there be a more expensive already assembled option for those of us who lack the skills required? I'd give it a go either way, but Murphys law tends to haunt me with things like this.


 I am sure someone on here would be happy to assemble one for you, I am happy to do a couple time permitting.


----------



## matho

iralosavic said:


> Will there be a more expensive already assembled option for those of us who lack the skills required? I'd give it a go either way, but Murphys law tends to haunt me with things like this.



I would love to be able to offer this but I don't know if Ill have the time to do it, one or two is ok but I don't want it to turn into a production run.

cheers steve


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Matho,The PDF looks pretty good, I reckon I could do it, look forward to your next one on the build

Swampy


----------



## matho

sorry its taking so long but I have finished testing the unit and I'm in the process of putting together the box build instructions which takes a long time for a 2 finger typist like myself.

cheers seve


----------



## dkaos

No probs Matho, thanks for the update! This is a bit by bit project for me anyway as I'm sure it is for a lot of people. I can make AG beer now, just not semi-automatically.


----------



## blotto

I'm looking forward to the second part  I love projects like this!


----------



## Swampy

Just a quick note.....Is there two Swampy members?
I am a Swampy but cant remember posting in here.


----------



## matho

there is, must have been a glitch, there shouldn't be to different members with the same name, maybe PM dane

cheers steve


----------



## [email protected]

Swampy said:


> Just a quick note.....Is there two Swampy members?
> I am a Swampy but cant remember posting in here.



Um yes there must be two, cause I am Swampy. 
I joined August 2010.
I have been active on this post, trying to get my hands on one of Mathos controllers


----------



## notung

This thread shows the generosity and community-mindedness that exists among home brewers in this country. Excuse the naive question, but could your controller work in conjunction with a birko urn and its element? Would that just be a matter of rewiring the element? Thanks.


----------



## matho

notung said:


> This thread shows the generosity and community-mindedness that exists among home brewers in this country. Excuse the naive question, but could your controller work in conjunction with a birko urn and its element? Would that just be a matter of rewiring the element? Thanks.



It could work but you would have to bypass the thermostat because that could get in the way, then again if you can turn it up to 110 then it should be fine


cheers steve


----------



## notung

> It could work but you would have to bypass the thermostat because that could get in the way, then again if you can turn it up to 110 then it should be fine



Great, thanks for that matho. I have begun to plan a project inspired by your Braumiser and ArnieW's BrauBushka. If you are still wondering about making up to 40 of your controllers available I'd love to be put on the end of the list. Let me know? Your controller would be the best starting point I can think of for the build. Cheers


----------



## matho

notung said:


> Great, thanks for that matho. I have begun to plan a project inspired by your Braumiser and ArnieW's BrauBushka. If you are still wondering about making up to 40 of your controllers available I'd love to be put on the end of the list. Let me know? Your controller would be the best starting point I can think of for the build. Cheers



not a problem notung, last spot, but thats it the list is full.

I have completed the box build instructions so here it is 

View attachment brauduino_controller_build1.pdf


The first 10 should expect a PM from me by tomorrow afternoon at the latest, telling them payment details and asking them their postage address's 

cheers steve


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Matho,
Looks great. I am going to use 24v pumps so I will need an extra IEC supply , right?
Do I also need an extra SSR for it as well?
Cheers
Matt


----------



## matho

Swampy,

IEC connectors are just plugs and sockets like you get on computer power leads, the 2 pin connector that I suggested (PS2014/PP2013) will be fine for 24V.

The problem is the 24v power supply, the absolute voltage limit for an arduino uno is 20v and the relay that I used is rated to 12v so what this means is you are going to have to get a 12v supply as well as a 24v supply. There are ways of getting 12v from 24v, like using a voltage regulator like LM7812 but that would require a few parts soldered to a prototyping board

here is the Datasheet for the LM78XX series 

using one of these in wired up like fig. 10 on page 23 of the datasheet between the 24v power supply and the brauduino board would work. 

As for the SSR you could get a 40A SSR instead of a 25A one and get a heatsink with a thermal rating of 2.2deg/w or lower , for a 15 amp load that would keep the temperature rise on the heat sink to about 50 deg above ambient which means on a 30deg day the heatsink will get to 80 deg so it will be hot to touch but won't damage the box or SSR. You will also need 15amp rated IEC power sockets too instead of the 10amp ones I spec'd 

cheers steve


----------



## matho

PM's sent to the first 10


----------



## notung

matho said:


> not a problem notung, last spot, but thats it the list is full.



:beer: Very excited - thanks!!!!!


----------



## ampy

Damn not in the top 10
O-well Looking forward to the next round of kits.


----------



## matho

ampy said:


> Damn not in the top 10
> O-well Looking forward to the next round of kits.



your the next in line so if someone drops off your there mate

cheers


----------



## [email protected]

matho said:


> Swampy,
> 
> IEC connectors are just plugs and sockets like you get on computer power leads, the 2 pin connector that I suggested (PS2014/PP2013) will be fine for 24V.
> 
> The problem is the 24v power supply, the absolute voltage limit for an arduino uno is 20v and the relay that I used is rated to 12v so what this means is you are going to have to get a 12v supply as well as a 24v supply. There are ways of getting 12v from 24v, like using a voltage regulator like LM7812 but that would require a few parts soldered to a prototyping board
> 
> here is the Datasheet for the LM78XX series
> 
> using one of these in wired up like fig. 10 on page 23 of the datasheet between the 24v power supply and the brauduino board would work.
> 
> As for the SSR you could get a 40A SSR instead of a 25A one and get a heatsink with a thermal rating of 2.2deg/w or lower , for a 15 amp load that would keep the temperature rise on the heat sink to about 50 deg above ambient which means on a 30deg day the heatsink will get to 80 deg so it will be hot to touch but won't damage the box or SSR. You will also need 15amp rated IEC power sockets too instead of the 10amp ones I spec'd
> 
> cheers steve


Thanks Matho
Can't wait to get mine, good luck with the next 30!


----------



## ampy

sweet :super: 


matho said:


> your the next in line so if someone drops off your there mate
> 
> cheers


----------



## bonj

1x bonjuino left


----------



## blotto

Bonj said:


> 1x bonjuino left


Yeah I'll take that Bonj If I got in fast enough. 

Cheers
Tristan


----------



## notung

PM sent to Bonj re: future bonjuinos. Cheers!


----------



## bonj

Wort said:


> Yeah I'll take that Bonj If I got in fast enough.
> 
> Cheers
> Tristan


Yeah mate, you made it.

NO BONJUINOS LEFT... STILL WAITING ON SHIPMENT FOR rv2 PARTS.


----------



## reg

Hi Matho just wondering if I am on the list for the next lot or any upcoming lots.
Cheers


----------



## matho

reg said:


> Hi Matho just wondering if I am on the list for the next lot or any upcoming lots.
> Cheers



hey reg your at 26 so its the next lot, I'm going to order the PCB's as soon as the first 10 are sold which shouldn't be long, that takes about 20 day to get and all the rest of the stuff takes a shorter time, sorry for how long it is taking I would have like it to be quicker but finding the time is difficult.

cheers steve


----------



## reg

matho said:


> hey reg your at 26 so its the next lot, I'm going to order the PCB's as soon as the first 10 are sold which shouldn't be long, that takes about 20 day to get and all the rest of the stuff takes a shorter time, sorry for how long it is taking I would have like it to be quicker but finding the time is difficult.
> 
> cheers steve


No Problems Steve.
Just wanting to make sure I was on the list.
Thank you


----------



## Yorg

Hi Matho, Id like to move up the list. Could you please send me the names and addresses of the people ahead of me


----------



## matho

Yorg said:


> Hi Matho, Id like to move up the list. Could you please send me the names and addresses of the people ahead of me



:lol: 

yeah no worries mate


----------



## blotto

I can't wait to start building this! Steve you mentioned in the controller PDF that your "cheap dremel ripoff" doesn't cut the plastic too well. Dremel make a plastic cutting wheel and I have used it a few times they don't work to bad. You might get it to fit your dremel ripoff.


----------



## suchidog

matho said:


> Ok so the price of the kit will be $45 which includes postage to anywhere in australia.
> 
> The total cost of the build is hard to say as it depends on your choices but to build the box in the picture
> it cost
> 
> Kit $45
> Bonjuino $22.50
> 12v powersupply $7 Ebay
> SSR $4.95 Ebay
> BOX $23.95 jaycar HB6224
> IEC power Male $4.95 jaycar PP4009
> IEC power female $4.95 jaycar PS4002
> 3 x black pushbuttons $14.85 jaycar SP0656
> 1 x red pushbutton $4.95 jayacr SP0657
> 2 pin connector M $2.95 jaycar PP2013
> 4 pin connector M $2.95 jaycar PP2010
> 2 pin connector F $2.95 jaycar PS2014
> 4 pin connector F $2.95 jaycar PS2012
> Heatsink $8.95 jaycar HH8572
> ---------------------------------------------------
> total: $153.85
> 
> tools required:
> wire cutters/strippers
> fine point soldering iron
> drill and drill bits
> hacksaw and files
> 
> now there will be extra costs like wires, heatshrink, heatsink compound and mounting standoffs and screws
> I used wires off an old ATA PC powersupply which were 18awg and V90 rated which is good for 300v and 15amps
> 
> cheers steve



Matho if you happen to still have the links for the ebay purchases/sellers would you mind posting them? Thanks in advance.


----------



## suchidog

notung said:


> PM sent to Bonj re: future bonjuinos. Cheers!



Me too. Thanks!


----------



## matho

sure suchidog,

The SSR

the power supply

I have also finished the instruction manual, I think

View attachment 55034


Ill have to re read it but not now its getting late

cheers steve


----------



## MastersBrewery

those instructions are well written, I even understood the PID explanation, though as they say a lil knowledge is a dangerous thing :huh:


----------



## matho

thanks mastersbrewery,

I have deleted the previous PDF because of a slight error in the front page on the start button functions here is the amended one

View attachment Instruction_manual.pdf


cheers steve


----------



## matho

I have just put together a ZIP file containing all the manuals, programs and EAGLE files I used to make the brauduino, feel free to use,share and develop it as this now belongs to the AHB community.

The brauduino ZIP

cheers steve


----------



## blotto

matho said:


> I have just put together a ZIP file containing all the manuals, programs and EAGLE files I used to make the brauduino, feel free to use,share and develop it as this now belongs to the AHB community.
> 
> The brauduino ZIP
> 
> cheers steve


You've done an amazing job thanks Steve!


----------



## ampy

I got my Bonjuino off Bonj last week and the Braumiser shield off Matho today, here are a few pics, both pretty much complete.

The Bonjuino





The Braumiser shield front




The Braumiser shield Back




And the Bonjuino and Braumiser shield together.




Now just have to get down to jaycar for a few bits and pieces!

Thanks to Matho an Bonj!

Cheers ampy


----------



## matho

Wort said:


> You've done an amazing job thanks Steve!



no worries mate



ampy said:


> I got my Bonjuino off Bonj last week and the Braumiser shield off Matho today, here are a few pics, both pretty much complete.
> 
> The Bonjuino
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Braumiser shield front
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Braumiser shield Back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the Bonjuino and Braumiser shield together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now just have to get down to jaycar for a few bits and pieces!
> 
> Thanks to Matho an Bonj!
> 
> Cheers ampy



looks awesome ampy, thanks for posting the pics

cheers steve


----------



## suchidog

matho said:


> sure suchidog,
> 
> The SSR
> 
> the power supply
> 
> cheers steve



Thanks heaps!


----------



## matho

I was reading AS 3100:2009 Approval and test specification - General requirements for electrial equipment and it states in 4.6.1 joints and insulation:
"Stranded conductors shall not be consolidated by lead -tin soldering where they are subject to contact pressure, unless the clamping means is so designed that there is no risk of bad contact due to cold flow of the solder"
so that means that where I recommed soldering or 'tinning' the ends of the wire before inserting into the screw connectors, please disregard.

cheers steve


----------



## MastersBrewery

recieved mine today, Thanks steve. 

Ampy thanks for showing me the daunting task that lay ahead!! nah going to get a friend to solder the boards up, waiting for my "pocket money" so I can place an order with bonj, when his kit are back in stock.

Steve I think you've created some threads that may out live some of us here, well done to all for their input.


----------



## matho

MastersBrewery said:


> recieved mine today, Thanks steve.



Cool mate thanks for letting me know, that was really quick you got it before I could have dropped it off to you.

cheers steve


----------



## matho

just order 50 more PCB's so they should be here buy the end of the month


----------



## browndog

Got mine in the mail today and am really impressed with the packaging and the whole thing. If ever there was an AHBer of the year, Matho would win it hands down. Now, time to dig out that urn I've had put away for yonks.

cheers

Browndog


----------



## matho

browndog said:


> Got mine in the mail today and am really impressed with the packaging and the whole thing. If ever there was an AHBer of the year, Matho would win it hands down. Now, time to dig out that urn I've had put away for yonks.
> 
> cheers
> 
> Browndog



cool, I had a look at the tracking today and the last event was sydney mail center, I thought it might have got lost. 

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

browndog said:


> If ever there was an AHBer of the year, Matho would win it hands down.



Well said!


----------



## arzaman

Very very cool after the completion of my single vessel braumeister clone *controlled by SESTOS PID regulator* Im moving to and *Arduino based controller* too !

Single Vessel Braumeister Clone

I love arduino philosophy and I come from the town (Ivrea) where arduino team has developed the board and the system (I live not so far from Arduino Road.. )

A part from this I would like to evolve the system replacing the static PID temperature control with a time based programmable system (mashing steps , boiling) and in the future also some flow and valve automation.

Off course Im following your brauduino project as well other project (brewtroller, habs..) in order to get inspiration, ideas, suggestions.. 







I have just sourced an arduino board and some shield (display, temperature sensor) and Im playing with basic sketch.. just to getting started and understand the basic concept and I/O management features

As soon as I have passed the getting started phase maybe I can contribute to this thread and project

Thank you from Italy matho for sharing your development, code, details..I hope to start a international collaboration  

Davide


----------



## matho

arzaman said:


> Very very cool after the completion of my single vessel braumeister clone *controlled by SESTOS PID regulator* Im moving to and *Arduino based controller* too !
> 
> Single Vessel Braumeister Clone
> 
> I love arduino philosophy and I come from the town (Ivrea) where arduino team has developed the board and the system (I live not so far from Arduino Road.. )
> 
> A part from this I would like to evolve the system replacing the static PID temperature control with a time based programmable system (mashing steps , boiling) and in the future also some flow and valve automation.
> 
> Off course Im following your brauduino project as well other project (brewtroller, habs..) in order to get inspiration, ideas, suggestions..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have just sourced an arduino board and some shield (display, temperature sensor) and Im playing with basic sketch.. just to getting started and understand the basic concept and I/O management features
> 
> As soon as I have passed the getting started phase maybe I can contribute to this thread and project
> 
> Thank you from Italy matho for sharing your development, code, details..I hope to start a international collaboration
> 
> Davide



hey Davide,
good to hear from you again, I have finished the code and I'm fairly sure that it will work but I haven't tested it on a real setup because my original controller is working fine and I don't want to change it over. So what would be really great is when a few of us who have built or are building a single vessel brewery start to use the brauduino shield and code and start giving feedback on it. 
The arduino platform is great, the support for it really helps to get started and the language is easy to learn, I only started learning the language 6 months ago. It will be great to have your feedback on this.

cheers 
steve


----------



## arzaman

matho said:


> I haven't tested it on a real setup because my original controller is working fine and I don't want to change it over. So what would be really great is when a few of us who have built or are building a single vessel brewery start to use the brauduino shield and code and start giving feedback on it.


 Hi Steve I'm more or less in the same condition...my rig works fine with Sestos PID controller..I have done 5 or 6 batches with good result and disassembling it seems not such a good idea..but you know the DIY virus should be manged and so I need to built somethingand Arduino is a so stimulating toy !

To tell you the truth the first idea behind the Arduino board is the automation of my conical fermenter peltier chiller







I don't want to go off topics ..In the following just some reference of my last creationThe idea is to use an* immersion water chiller* inside the conical fermenter and recirculate cold water. The cooling is provided by a *peltier air-water heat exchanger* using a technology for PC watercooling (overclocking CPU)

Full photo album

The system has been tested with last batch and works fine, very compact, low noise, easy to mange..efficency not so bad.. some videos of the setup

Conical fermenter peltier chiller video


I have sourced a coolit The coolIT exchanger that is a very nice piece of engineeringcurrently I'm controlling the unit via it's own controller that can be configured *by software PC via USB *but it can works also stand aloneBut off course I'm not able to "program" the controller behavior ..so the idea is to* replace with Arduino board *+ a DC motor shield for managing PWM power applied to peltier cell as well fan and pump speed

I don't know if I need to develop a specific shield for such an application (need some power drivers for peltier cells)but your solution for the single vessel rig stimulate me to work in parallel on both idea..

As soon I have acquired basic knowledge of arduino programming for sure I will play with your code and provide any feedback!

Davide


----------



## matho

arzaman said:


> Hi Steve I'm more or less in the same condition...my rig works fine with Sestos PID controller..I have done 5 or 6 batches with good result and disassembling it seems not such a good idea..but you know the DIY virus should be manged and so I need to built somethingand Arduino is a so stimulating toy !
> 
> To tell you the truth the first idea behind the Arduino board is the automation of my conical fermenter peltier chiller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to go off topics ..In the following just some reference of my last creationThe idea is to use an* immersion water chiller* inside the conical fermenter and recirculate cold water. The cooling is provided by a *peltier air-water heat exchanger* using a technology for PC watercooling (overclocking CPU)
> 
> Full photo album
> 
> The system has been tested with last batch and works fine, very compact, low noise, easy to mange..efficency not so bad.. some videos of the setup
> 
> Conical fermenter peltier chiller video
> 
> 
> I have sourced a coolit The coolIT exchanger that is a very nice piece of engineeringcurrently I'm controlling the unit via it's own controller that can be configured *by software PC via USB *but it can works also stand aloneBut off course I'm not able to "program" the controller behavior ..so the idea is to* replace with Arduino board *+ a DC motor shield for managing PWM power applied to peltier cell as well fan and pump speed
> 
> I don't know if I need to develop a specific shield for such an application (need some power drivers for peltier cells)but your solution for the single vessel rig stimulate me to work in parallel on both idea..
> 
> As soon I have acquired basic knowledge of arduino programming for sure I will play with your code and provide any feedback!
> 
> Davide



awesome looking bit of kit there Davide, I think I have the same power supply, is that a 30A 12v switch mode power supply, I have been using it to power some peltiers to cool a fermentation chamber 

thanks for sharing

cheers steve


----------



## arzaman

matho said:


> awesome looking bit of kit there Davide, I think I have the same power supply, is that a 30A 12v switch mode power supply, I have been using it to power some peltiers to cool a fermentation chamber
> 
> thanks for sharing
> 
> cheers steve



Hi Steve

It seems we are working same project on both side of the worldI have deployed a pelteir fermentation chamber me too..!












FULL ALBUM 

The main purpose was to keep the temperature constant regardless the external temperature (my cantina is too cold in winter and to hot in summer..) in a simple and effective wayavoiding to have two different devices one for cooling and the other one for heating. The peltier cells could be controlled electronically via and H-bridge circuit that simply reverse the polarity of the power applied the TEC cooler and reverse hot/cold face.

In this case I have used a specific controller ready made that implement PID logic, PWM power to TEC and H-bridge circuit. It can be programmed via serial interface and than it runs stand alone. In order to modify the set point I have used a digital resistor

The system works quite wellin a not too much delta temperature environmentbut is not so efficient since the fridge insulation is home-made and is not exactly A++ grade.

Anyway I use both conical fermenter and chamber depending on the beer style and temperature set. I have no plan to introduce arduino board in the chamber.

Ciao
Davide


----------



## Dan Pratt

Hi Matho,
Straight up, top marks for the time and effort on making single vessel brewing controllers. When you take the plunge and move to complete unit production I would be in on that for a purchase. 
Again, well done. 
And not to be rude but Arzaman, that looks like very complicated fridge. Eg a device used to control fermentation temps.


----------



## arzaman

Pratty1 said:


> And not to be rude but Arzaman, that looks like very complicated fridge. Eg a device used to control fermentation temps.



I suppose you are referring to the conical fermenter build upon a PC watercooling TEC systemapparently seems a nuclear reactor but I can assure that is quite simple and easy to usejust fill the circuit with water/glycol connect pump inlet outlet, configure set point via USB and pc software and provide power..very compact, low nois, low maintenance

Compared to other cooling system (ie fridge modification) peltire cells has some interesting pros

-No mechanical part with maintenance like normal compressor
-No hysteresis in switching on and off the engine
-Both cooling and heating capability
-fine power adjustment (PWM from 0-100%)
-Low Noise, compact size implementation 

Off course you pay in efficiency.the possibility to control everything via software and simple electronics let me say that is less complicated than tweaking a fridge...an fine control of fermentation temperature in different external condition we know it's a key for good beer...

enjoy
Davide


----------



## ArnieW

arzaman said:


> I suppose you are referring to the conical fermenter build upon a PC watercooling TEC systemapparently seems a nuclear reactor but I can assure that is quite simple and easy to usejust fill the circuit with water/glycol connect pump inlet outlet, configure set point via USB and pc software and provide power..very compact, low nois, low maintenance
> 
> Compared to other cooling system (ie fridge modification) peltire cells has some interesting pros
> 
> -No mechanical part with maintenance like normal compressor
> -No hysteresis in switching on and off the engine
> -Both cooling and heating capability
> -fine power adjustment (PWM from 0-100%)
> -Low Noise, compact size implementation
> 
> Off course you pay in efficiency.the possibility to control everything via software and simple electronics let me say that is less complicated than tweaking a fridge...an fine control of fermentation temperature in different external condition we know it's a key for good beer...
> 
> enjoy
> Davide


Thanks for sharing that Davide. I'll file those peltier ideas away for the day I have lots of time to experiment :blink:


----------



## MastersBrewery

ArnieW said:


> Thanks for sharing that Davide. I'll file those peltier ideas away for the day I have lots of time to experiment :blink:



Arnie you couldn't be getting bored!!! already??


----------



## blotto

Sweet I have finished all my soldering, now to order the box and buttons I'm half way there!


----------



## matho

Wort said:


> Sweet I have finished all my soldering, now to order the box and buttons I'm half way there!



awesome mate, were the instructions OK to follow?

cheers


----------



## blotto

matho said:


> awesome mate, were the instructions OK to follow?
> 
> cheers


Yeah Steve they were very easy. The only thing I did wrong was put the male header for the LCD display upside down to what the instructions said but I don't think it makes much difference. I was surprised how fast I got it done it only took about an hour or so and that was with me being super careful. The soldering iron you recommended worked like a charm!


----------



## ArnieW

MastersBrewery said:


> Arnie you couldn't be getting bored!!! already??


Definitely not bored - too many ideas and not enough time!


----------



## MastersBrewery

matho, 

when going over the instructions and scematics it was some what confusing as to the layout of the temp sensor pins on the header. Best I can figure is from "power in" end Pins Are 3,2,1. Can you confirm. 

Thanks 
Mike


----------



## MastersBrewery

ArnieW said:


> Definitely not bored - too many ideas and not enough time!




so many toys! too little time!


----------



## matho

hey mike the ds18b20 should be wired up with - to pin 1, the data wire to pin 2 and + to pin 3, if you have the board so that the row of connectors are facing you then it will be connected to the 3 terminal connector (second from the left) with pin 3 connected to the left screw and pin 2 to the midlle screw and pin 1 to the right screw.




in the drawing the temperature sensor has the flat face up.

On the first batch of boards the markings for the temperature sensor was screwed up and didn't come out correctly but I made sure the next batch was correct, hop this clears things up.

cheers steve


----------



## MastersBrewery

thanks for the clarification 

Mike


----------



## matho

To compile the code additional libraries will need to be installed, the instructions on how to install libraries are found HERE
and the libraries are the 'onewire' library found HERE and
the PIDV1 library found HERE

once they are installed you should be able to compile the code with out errors

cheers steve


----------



## matho

For anyone that might be thinking that I'll start selling completed unit's, I have been looking into the law and it would be illegal for me to sell a piece of equipment that controls or conditions mains power unless it has an approval number on it. To get an approval number I'll have to pay $450 for a 5 year approval and prove to the certifying body that the unit complies to AS 3100, which some tests are destructive. So given that I won't be selling a completed unit.

cheers steve


----------



## MastersBrewery

yeah they do that with all electrical stuff even big transformers the push em till they blow, blast proof room required! what a great job that would be


----------



## matho

The PCB's have been manufactured and posted and they left hong kong for australia on the 19th, so I'm expecting them late next week, so hopefully I'll be able to start getting some more kit out.

cheers steve


----------



## Tanga

Doh! I've been meaning to check this thread. I don't suppose there are any boards going begging?


----------



## matho

Tanga said:


> Doh! I've been meaning to check this thread. I don't suppose there are any boards going begging?



well since you mentioned it





50 PCB's turned up today, still waiting on the components to arrive, hopefully by next week I'll be able to start to get then next lot out, sorry for how long its been taking.

cheers steve


----------



## ArnieW

matho said:


> well since you mentioned it
> 
> View attachment 55452
> 
> 
> 50 PCB's turned up today, still waiting on the components to arrive, hopefully by next week I'll be able to start to get then next lot out, sorry for how long its been taking.
> 
> cheers steve


Dead set legend Steve. Apology not needed as far as I'm concerned. I know the kind of work that goes into putting kits together and I salute you! :beerbang:


----------



## Tanga

Sweeeeet. If this doesn't improve my electronics skills I don't know what will.


----------



## blotto

Hi Steve,

I have successfully etched the pcb's from the first Braumiser instructions, I ended up buying the blue transfer paper from jaycar and it worked great! I'm going to start soldering tonight but I wanted to know if instead of the two 2.3v LEDs from jaycar can use some 12v LEDs that I have? Would I just jumper r1and r5 on the output board? 

Cheers mate


----------



## matho

Wort said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> I have successfully etched the pcb's from the first Braumiser instructions, I ended up buying the blue transfer paper from jaycar and it worked great! I'm going to start soldering tonight but I wanted to know if instead of the two 2.3v LEDs from jaycar can use some 12v LEDs that I have? Would I just jumper r1and r5 on the output board?
> 
> Cheers mate




awesome 

it's hard to say because its actually 5v that is applied to the led's, you can give it a go, it might work, there just has to be enough current to trigger the optocoupler and transistor from memory I think its about 10mA but could be lower. I don't think it will damage anything using them and jumping out R1 and R5 ,instead of normal LED's, if the relay doesn't pick up you will know it doesn't work.

cheers


----------



## domfergo

G'day matho

Great work on this project, finally convinced myself that a single vessel system is right for me. I was wondering if you have any kits left not taken and can you put me down for one?

Cheers 

Mass


----------



## matho

Hey mass, they have all been spoken for but I'll put you on the list just in case people pull out.

I have just received the parts I have been waiting for, well enough for 10 kits, hopefully the rest of the order will turn up soon so I can get the next 10 out too. I'll be sending PM's out to the 10 tonight.

cheers steve


----------



## domfergo

No worries Steve, please do let me know if anyone pulls out!

Good luck getting the kits together, hope it goes smoothley!

Mass


----------



## matho

Massatomic said:


> No worries Steve, please do let me know if anyone pulls out!
> 
> Good luck getting the kits together, hope it goes smoothley!
> 
> Mass



hey Mass,

I have had 6 people pull out so your at 35 on the list, I'll let you know when I have a kit ready for you.

Out of the last 10 kits offered I have had four people not reply so I have moved them to the bottom of the list now because it been a week.

I'm still waiting on some 40 2 way screw terminals to show up so I can put together the next lot of 10 kits, sorry for the delay.

cheers steve


----------



## NickB

Got mine today,

Looks the goods.

Lucky I had the soldering iron out for another job just last night - will be into it again tonight with a beer or two I reckon!

Cheers


----------



## matho

NickB said:


> Got mine today,
> 
> Looks the goods.
> 
> Lucky I had the soldering iron out for another job just last night - will be into it again tonight with a beer or two I reckon!
> 
> Cheers



awesome Nick :beer: 

cheers


----------



## NickB

Appreciate your efforts Matho!

Now, I just need to acquire every other single piece of my single-vessel brewery (including the vessels)...


----------



## [email protected]

Hey Matho,
Just wondering....am I still on your list? I am still keen.

CHEERS
SWAMPY


----------



## matho

Swampy said:


> Hey Matho,
> Just wondering....am I still on your list? I am still keen.
> 
> CHEERS
> SWAMPY



yeah swampy at position 28 mate so when the 40 2 way screw terminals show up (which hopefully will be soon) then I can make up the next 10 kits


----------



## domfergo

matho said:


> hey Mass,
> 
> I have had 6 people pull out so your at 35 on the list, I'll let you know when I have a kit ready for you
> 
> cheers steve



Great news for me! Thanks Steve! 

Pm the details of payment details and I will send the cash threw and postal address. I don't think anyone is stressing about time... Just very fortunate for the work you have put into this!

Thanks again

Dom


----------



## beerbrewer76543

I'm keen for one if there are any left


----------



## Lakey

Hey matho, I only just discovered this thread and the whole brauduino idea interests me alot as I am keen to upgrade from biab. I was just wondering if a pcb becomes availible, I am keen to grab one from you.
Cheers -Lakey!


----------



## bonj

I have notified the next 10 on the Bonjuino list that the kits will be available for posting early next week. The delay was due to a part being delayed, but that will be fixed in the next order.

If I get enough interest, I will do another order of 10. I am also waiting on a couple of replies from the top 10 list. If I don't get a reply by the time I start sending the kits, I will open those spots up to more interested parties.


----------



## Malted

@ Metho & Bonjela




I am in awe of the effort you guys put in.


----------



## domfergo

its friday night malted... are you suiting up?


----------



## bonj

Thanks Malted, but metho is the true legend here. The effort he put into redesigning his original project circuit board and porting the program to arduino, all for the benefit of others. That is truly awesome!



Malted said:


> @ Metho & Bonjela
> View attachment 55792
> 
> 
> I am in awe of the effort you guys put in.


----------



## Florian

Damn you Bonj, now I have to explain to the wife and book keeper what that payment to bigfathooker.com is...


----------



## bonj

Florian said:


> Damn you Bonj, now I have to explain to the wife and book keeper what that payment to bigfathooker.com is...


:lol:


----------



## dkaos

Sorry Steve I'm going to pull out of this, have decided to stick with BIAB as I can't afford to to the rest of the build right now.


Cheers,

Clint


----------



## beerbrewer76543

@ Metho & Bonjela

I'll take one of each of your kit if there is any to spare!

Cheers :beer:


----------



## bonj

L_Bomb said:


> @ Metho & Bonjela
> 
> I'll take one of each of your kit if there is any to spare!
> 
> Cheers :beer:


I've put you on the interested list as the current batch are all accounted for. When there is enough interest for another batch, I will put in the parts orders and send out PMs.

As you can probably appreciate, I can really only afford to fund 10 kits per batch.


----------



## NickB

How much interest for the next batch, Bonj? I only ask as I'm looking to build mine in the very near future...

Cheers


----------



## bonj

NickB said:


> How much interest for the next batch, Bonj? I only ask as I'm looking to build mine in the very near future...
> 
> Cheers


She's close mate. We're about half way at the moment, but judging from the interest in the last batch, it shouldn't take long to get the rest of the way.


----------



## Lakey

hey bonj i am definately keen for one of your boards put me on the interested list.


----------



## bonj

Lakey said:


> hey bonj i am definately keen for one of your boards put me on the interested list.


done


----------



## Lakey

Bonj said:


> done




Cheers bud! :kooi:


----------



## matho

Lakey said:


> Hey matho, I only just discovered this thread and the whole brauduino idea interests me alot as I am keen to upgrade from biab. I was just wondering if a pcb becomes availible, I am keen to grab one from you.
> Cheers -Lakey!



hey Lakey, I can post you a PCB now if you want or if you want to wait to see if a couple drop off the kit list then you can have a kit. The cost of the PCB only posted anywhere in Australia would be $5.



Clints Gadgets said:


> Sorry Steve I'm going to pull out of this, have decided to stick with BIAB as I can't afford to to the rest of the build right now.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Clint



thanks for getting back to me Clint I'll probably have left over PCB's if you ever change your mind



L_Bomb said:


> @ Metho & Bonjela
> 
> I'll take one of each of your kit if there is any to spare!
> 
> Cheers :beer:



hey L_bomb, you have been added to the end of the list but only a couple of people will need to decline a kit and there will be one for you.

thanks

steve


----------



## Lakey

matho said:


> hey Lakey, I can post you a PCB now if you want or if you want to wait to see if a couple drop off the kit list then you can have a kit. The cost of the PCB only posted anywhere in Australia would be $5.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for getting back to me Clint I'll probably have left over PCB's if you ever change your mind
> 
> 
> 
> hey L_bomb, you have been added to the end of the list but only a couple of people will need to decline a kit and there will be one for you.
> 
> thanks
> 
> steve



Yeah I will get a pcb of ya mate, im keen to test my soldering skills! (im an electrical apprentice so this will be a good project for me)


----------



## jorgy

Hey Bonj & Matho

Very keen! Put me on the list for one of each of these kits. Fantastic stuff i must say. Well done


----------



## domfergo

Matho woUld it be possible to run two 2400w elements coming off two different circuits from the house.

I am going to make a double batch setup and will need to look to boil 50l approx and Won't have access to 15amp power?


----------



## matho

Massatomic said:


> Matho woUld it be possible to run two 2400w elements coming off two different circuits from the house.
> 
> I am going to make a double batch setup and will need to look to boil 50l approx and Won't have access to 15amp power?



yeah not a problem, you will need 2 separate SSR but the brauduino will be able to switch both at the same time. 

jorgy, you have been added to the bottom of the list, which is currently position 43, I have set a limit of 40 kits so if others decline the kits then there might be one available, if not then I have spare PCB's for $5 but you will have to source the parts yourself.

cheers steve


----------



## domfergo

Thanks matho! Back to the drawing board!


----------



## NickB

Bonj, forgot to say put me down for one of yours, too.

Lakey - Apprentice Sparky here too.... Who you work for?

Cheers


----------



## bonj

NickB said:


> Bonj, forgot to say put me down for one of yours, too.
> 
> Lakey - Apprentice Sparky here too.... Who you work for?
> 
> Cheers


You're on the list Nick. It's getting very close to another batch.


----------



## jorgy

Thanks Steve! Ill wait a bit for any pull-outs. If not, the PCB will be excellent.


----------



## wotafm

hi steve,

do you have any pcb kit still going?

cheers dave


----------



## Florian

My Brauduino kit just arrived, and the Bonjuino a few days ago. Thanks heaps, guys.

Now I just need to find some time away from the kids to assemble everything.


----------



## bonj

Florian said:


> My Brauduino kit just arrived, and the Bonjuino a few days ago. Thanks heaps, guys.





> Now I just need to find some time away from the kids to assemble everything.


I know how that is. If my HERMS controller has a config option for "Sound the Octo-Alert!", you'll know why


----------



## matho

wotafm said:


> hi steve,
> 
> do you have any pcb kit still going?
> 
> cheers dave



hey dave I'll add you to the list, currently the 40 kit spots are filled but if there are a few to decline in the next lot of 20 then there might be a kit available, I do have a couple of PCB's spare.




Florian said:


> My Brauduino kit just arrived, and the Bonjuino a few days ago. Thanks heaps, guys.
> 
> Now I just need to find some time away from the kids to assemble everything.



good news Florian.

so out of the first 20 kits to go out, Queensland has got 10, so its looking like Queensland is the braumiser state so far.

cheers steve


----------



## wotafm

Steve

i would be happy with just the boards i probably have most of the components at home left over from other projects 

pm me with how you would like me to get you some coin for two. i will make a controller for the apprentice as well as he seamed really keen when i showed him pictures of your rig and it will give him a project to do when things are a bit quiet.


cheers

Dave


----------



## Lakey

NickB said:


> Bonj, forgot to say put me down for one of yours, too.
> 
> Lakey - Apprentice Sparky here too.... Who you work for?
> 
> Cheers


 
Hey mate just saw this now, I work for QR as signal electrician... ... apprentice of course!


----------



## NickB

I'm QR too! Facilities . Second year... Small world! Where are you based? We're Sunshine...

Cheers


----------



## Lakey

NickB said:


> I'm QR too! Facilities . Second year... Small world! Where are you based? We're Sunshine...
> 
> Cheers



Mate I am based out of Corinda, bit of a pita considering I live at Bald Hills, but when I started there was to many apprentices from northside and I drew the short straw, we couldnt all work out of sunshine.
Im 2nd year too.


----------



## NickB

Yeah, I guess someone has to work there! There was talk of our section relocating there into the new buildings that are going in.... Not sure if that's gonna happen or not....

See you round the traps, then 

Cheers


----------



## breakbeer

I'd love to get one of these kits, if there's a standby list can you please put me on it?

I already have most of the parts (SSR, switches, 12V power supply, box etc) coz I was going to build my own control box, but your design & efforts are a hundred times better than anything I could've put together!


----------



## notung

Received a Bonjuino kit in yesterday's mail - cheers Bonj! 

Hitting the internet to look for a soldering iron now.


----------



## matho

just a quick reminder to people trying to compile the code, for it to compile you need to add the onewire library and the pid library to the arduino IDE

HERE is the post explaining how and what

cheers steve


----------



## jorgy

matho, any people pulled out of getting a kit? if not, could i grab the PCB? PM me when you have a chance and ill sort out the details.

Bonj, ill also grab a Bonjuino if i may. Are these available?


----------



## adryargument

Its Allliiiiiiivveee!!!


----------



## blotto

adryargument said:


> Its Allliiiiiiivveee!!!


Good job adryargument! Your pot is bloody hot!


----------



## Golani51

Lakey said:


> Mate I am based out of Corinda, bit of a pita considering I live at Bald Hills, but when I started there was to many apprentices from northside and I drew the short straw, we couldnt all work out of sunshine.
> Im 2nd year too.



Hi guys. I am assuming you work for Queensland Rail?? Bugger off. I work for Pacific National Rail. LEAVE OUR BLOODY TRAINS ALONE!


----------



## adryargument

Anyone else having issues with the Add Hops stage?
My controller doesn't want to Beep or notify me.

Note i am currently just testing with 1 minute mash steps, boil time of 5m, Hops at 4m, 3m, 2m.
(No temp sensor in, so it automatically reaches temp.)


----------



## MastersBrewery

ah crap and I thought I'd escaped all the train buffs, did 10 years with RailCorp, now Daddy day care..... trains were easier!


----------



## Golani51

Who said train buff? I work with the Six Sigma team. I am a plane buff.


----------



## matho

adryargument said:


> Anyone else having issues with the Add Hops stage?
> My controller doesn't want to Beep or notify me.
> 
> Note i am currently just testing with 1 minute mash steps, boil time of 5m, Hops at 4m, 3m, 2m.
> (No temp sensor in, so it automatically reaches temp.)



hey adryargument,

I just tried my unit with those boil and hop times and it alerts me, so I'm just wondering where you got the program from, it might be an older version.

HERE is where I store the code, just download as a zip and load brauduino2.ino into the arduino

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

jorgy said:


> matho, any people pulled out of getting a kit? if not, could i grab the PCB? PM me when you have a chance and ill sort out the details.
> 
> Bonj, ill also grab a Bonjuino if i may. Are these available?


I've put you at number 11 out of 20. The PCBs are in transit now and all the other parts have already arrived so I will start making up the kits when they arrive.


----------



## matho

the part I was waiting on has just arrived so the next lot of 10 is ready to go out.

hey jordy, I will know soon with the next lot of 10 going out if there is anymore ppl pull out, I have been thinking of getting the relay and the micromatch connector for all my PCB's because they are the most difficult parts to get, the rest of the parts can be got from jaycar or ebay, the only problem with that idea is it will push the price of postage up to $6.80 so in total the PCB, relay and connector delivered would be $15.

cheers steve


----------



## adryargument

matho said:


> hey adryargument,
> 
> I just tried my unit with those boil and hop times and it alerts me, so I'm just wondering where you got the program from, it might be an older version.
> 
> HERE is where I store the code, just download as a zip and load brauduino2.ino into the arduino
> 
> cheers steve



Cheers will try it when i finish brewing.
I used the download from your signature - may need an update?


----------



## matho

adryargument said:


> Cheers will try it when i finish brewing.
> I used the download from your signature - may need an update?



nope I think I have worked it out, the problem is with the eeprom I have not written a value to position 49 which is used to count the hop additions. The problem is that position could be any value if it has not been written too and if it is higher than the number of hop additions then it won't alert the hop additions. At the end of the brewing process is where address 49 gets set back to 0 so maybe let it run until it says 'brewing finished' and then the hopadd address will be set to 0 and it should work as planned.
If not then I'll have to look into it further.

cheers 
steve


----------



## matho

Hey adryargument,

I just tried it with the eeprom not set and the first time in the boil the hop additions didn't happen but I let it go to the finish and tried it again and it worked as planned, so there should be no need to update the code. There has been a slight change to the code since I put it in the ZIP but it won't make much difference.

cheers steve

edit: I have just updated the zip linked in my sig


----------



## matho

Just a quick update

Pm's have been sent out for kits 21 - 30 

planning on kits 31 - 40 to be ready in about 2 weeks time 

It looks like everyone who is waiting for a kit will get one as breakbeer is in position 40

cheers steve


----------



## Brisfox

matho said:


> Just a quick update
> 
> Pm's have been sent out for kits 21 - 30
> 
> planning on kits 31 - 40 to be ready in about 2 weeks time
> 
> It looks like everyone who is waiting for a kit will get one as breakbeer is in position 40
> 
> cheers steve



Just enquiring my position matho.


Brisfox.


----------



## matho

Brisfox said:


> Just enquiring my position matho.
> 
> 
> Brisfox.




38


----------



## breakbeer

matho said:


> It looks like everyone who is waiting for a kit will get one as breakbeer is in position 40
> 
> cheers steve




bloody Legend!

edit: I'll pay up front if that helps, pm your details


----------



## adryargument

matho said:


> Hey adryargument,
> 
> I just tried it with the eeprom not set and the first time in the boil the hop additions didn't happen but I let it go to the finish and tried it again and it worked as planned, so there should be no need to update the code. There has been a slight change to the code since I put it in the ZIP but it won't make much difference.
> 
> cheers steve
> 
> edit: I have just updated the zip linked in my sig



Cheers,
Made a tonne of changes to the code so i wasn't looking forward to redoing it all 

I'm assuming the eeprom gets reset every now and then if updating?
Hops seemed to work the 2nd time i tried it, but failed thereafter - could of been due to the countless updates i was punching into it.
Tailoring it to fit my 3 vessel.


----------



## matho

at line 713 there is this bit of code


Code:


  EEPROM.write(49,0);

 if after the boil this isn't being performed then it won't work properly the next time around

hope this helps

cheers steve


----------



## suchidog

Hey all, I am probably not looking properly but is there a instruction manual to construct the bonjuino ver. 2 at all?


----------



## bonj

suchidog said:


> Hey all, I am probably not looking properly but is there a instruction manual to construct the bonjuino ver. 2 at all?


There isn't a component by component manual, but hopefully you kept the papers from inside the packet because the list of components and the general instructions were on them. The list also tells you which resistors and capacitors are which, and they match with the silkscreening on the PCB. The general instructions tell you which way to orient the polarised components, and the rest you should be able to get by viewing the larger version of the first image in the bonjuino link in my sig below. Click on the large image for an even larger version.

Hopefully that will sort you out.


----------



## suchidog

Bonj said:


> There isn't a component by component manual, but hopefully you kept the papers from inside the packet because the list of components and the general instructions were on them. The list also tells you which resistors and capacitors are which, and they match with the silkscreening on the PCB. The general instructions tell you which way to orient the polarised components, and the rest you should be able to get by viewing the larger version of the first image in the bonjuino link in my sig below. Click on the large image for an even larger version.
> 
> Hopefully that will sort you out.



Thanks bonj - that should see me right


----------



## domfergo

Any news on the next batch of ten bonj?


----------



## bonj

Massatomic said:


> Any news on the next batch of ten bonj?


The next batch of 10 is actually a batch of 20, and the PCBs are in transit. When they arrive, I will assemble the kits and PM a link to the purchase page.

You are number 3 of 20


----------



## domfergo

Sweet! 

Love it when plans come together! 

Still can't find without getting fabricated 350mm malt tube, might have to go back to a single batch system yet


----------



## Whiteferret

Bonj said:


> The next batch of 10 is actually a batch of 20, and the PCBs are in transit. When they arrive, I will assemble the kits and PM a link to the purchase page.
> 
> You are number 3 of 20



Hi Bonj,
Could you please put me down for a Bonjuino when you get the kits together.
Thanks Wayne


----------



## bonj

whiteferret said:


> Hi Bonj,
> Could you please put me down for a Bonjuino when you get the kits together.
> Thanks Wayne


Done.


----------



## reg

Hi Bonj,

Can you also please put me down for a Bonjuino when you get the kits together.

Cheers
Reg


----------



## bonj

reg said:


> Hi Bonj,
> 
> Can you also please put me down for a Bonjuino when you get the kits together.
> 
> Cheers
> Reg


Done. You are 13 of 20


----------



## markymoo

Bonj, can I please be #14 of 20, I owuld love to order one of you Bonjuino's.

Thankies


----------



## bonj

markymoo said:


> Bonj, can I please be #14 of 20, I owuld love to order one of you Bonjuino's.
> 
> Thankies


Done


----------



## breakbeer

# 15 please mate

Legend!


----------



## bonj

breakbeer said:


> # 15 please mate
> 
> Legend!


Done.


----------



## Whiteferret

Hi guys got my controller from matho thursday and built it last night.
I'm just having trouble when the code gets verified.
these are the errors it comes back with.
I dont fully understand the language but it seems to be in the lcd library that the problem is
coming from.

[codebox]brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void stage_loop(int, float, float)':



brauduino2.pde:-1: error: call of overloaded 'write(int)' is ambiguous



C:\arduino-1.0.1\libraries\LiquidCrystal/LiquidCrystal.h:82: note: candidates are: virtual size_t LiquidCrystal::write(uint8_t)



C:\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/Print.h:49: note: size_t Print::write(const char*)



brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void manual_mode()':



brauduino2.pde:-1: error: call of overloaded 'write(int)' is ambiguous



C:\arduino-1.0.1\libraries\LiquidCrystal/LiquidCrystal.h:82: note: candidates are: virtual size_t LiquidCrystal::write(uint8_t)



C:\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/Print.h:49: note: size_t Print::write(const char*)



brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void loop()':



brauduino2.pde:-1: error: call of overloaded 'write(int)' is ambiguous



C:\arduino-1.0.1\libraries\LiquidCrystal/LiquidCrystal.h:82: note: candidates are: virtual size_t LiquidCrystal::write(uint8_t)

C:\arduino-1.0.1\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/Print.h:49: note: size_t Print::write(const char*)

[/codebox]

I'm running Arduino 1.0.1 freshly installed this morning
any ideas?


----------



## matho

hey whiteferret,

the brauduino2.pde code is old and worked on arduino 022 I have a newer code for arduino v1 its included in the zip in my sig as brauduino2.ino or HERE
all those errors are due the the deg c sign, in the 022 version of the arduino IDE you could just put 



Code:


lcd.write(0);


but in version 1.0 you need to type cast 0 as an unsigned int to make it compile like this



Code:


lcd.write((uint8_t)0);


anyway use the newer code as there has been a few other changes 

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

matho said:


> hey whiteferret,
> 
> the brauduino2.pde code is old and worked on arduino 022 I have a newer code for arduino v1 its included in the zip in my sig as brauduino2.ino or HERE
> all those errors are due the the deg c sign, in the 022 version of the arduino IDE you could just put
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> lcd.write(0);
> 
> 
> but in version 1.0 you need to type cast 0 as an unsigned int to make it compile like this
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> lcd.write((uint8_t)0);
> 
> 
> anyway use the newer code as there has been a few other changes
> 
> cheers steve



What he said 

I used the latest brauduino2.ino code from the github resource when I flashed the microcontrollers for all the bonjuinos. It's best to use that code because it contains some changes that affect the operation of the brewery.


----------



## Whiteferret

matho said:


> hey whiteferret,
> 
> the brauduino2.pde code is old and worked on arduino 022 I have a newer code for arduino v1 its included in the zip in my sig as brauduino2.ino or HERE
> all those errors are due the the deg c sign, in the 022 version of the arduino IDE you could just put
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> lcd.write(0);
> 
> 
> but in version 1.0 you need to type cast 0 as an unsigned int to make it compile like this
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> lcd.write((uint8_t)0);
> 
> 
> anyway use the newer code as there has been a few other changes
> 
> cheers steve






Bonj said:


> What he said
> 
> I used the latest brauduino2.ino code from the github resource when I flashed the microcontrollers for all the bonjuinos. It's best to use that code because it contains some changes that affect the operation of the brewery.




Thanks I've definately got something wrong with my arduino installation.
I was hoping to have a play on the Eleven controller hooked up to Matho's shield over the weekend.
Now I'll just have to be patient until Bonj's Bonjuino gets here. :super:


----------



## NickB

Bonj - got my Bonjuino today... Cheers!!!


----------



## matho

hey Whiteferret,

I just installed arduino 1.0.1 on my XP system and the brauduino2.ino complied fine, what operating system are you using,as you said it must be something wrong with your install. I have an eleven board here and it works fine as well. 

just to be sure here is the latest code

View attachment brauduino2.txt


just change the .txt to .ino

anyway hope you get it working

cheers steve


----------



## notung

Big thanks to matho for sending out the latest round of kits. Mine arrive safe and sound last week. I will post when I put it all together but just wanted to say that you and bonj are complete legends!


----------



## matho

notung said:


> Big thanks to matho for sending out the latest round of kits. Mine arrive safe and sound last week. I will post when I put it all together but just wanted to say that you and bonj are complete legends!



Good to hear that you got safely thanks for letting me know

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

Okay, so after processing the list of orders for this batch, I have 4 kits still available at the link in my signature below.


----------



## breakbeer

Paid this morning Bonj

Cheers!


----------



## bonj

breakbeer said:


> Paid this morning Bonj
> 
> Cheers!


Yep, I received your payment this morning and posted your kit off just after the post office opened.


----------



## Smokomark

Got mine today. Thanks Bonj


----------



## markymoo

got my brauduino on monday, bonjuino came today with the SSR just awaiting the power supply out of hong kong now


----------



## breakbeer

I've been searching for a while now but I can't find the link to instructions on pairing the two boards

can anyone point me in the right direction?


----------



## matho

hey breakbeer,

the brauduino is a shield that is designed to plug into the headers on the bonjuino/arduino 

like this 





cheers steve


----------



## breakbeer

sorry steve, what I meant to ask was the instructions for putting your kit together

I remember reading them the other day & it also mentioned how to 'attach' the bonjuino


----------



## matho

hey breakbeer,

HERE is the assembly instructions for the brauduino shield PCB

there is no part by part assembly instruction for the bonjuino but bonj has included the essential information in the instructions that come with the kit

cheers steve


----------



## jorgy

matho said:


> the part I was waiting on has just arrived so the next lot of 10 is ready to go out.
> 
> hey jordy, I will know soon with the next lot of 10 going out if there is anymore ppl pull out, I have been thinking of getting the relay and the micromatch connector for all my PCB's because they are the most difficult parts to get, the rest of the parts can be got from jaycar or ebay, the only problem with that idea is it will push the price of postage up to $6.80 so in total the PCB, relay and connector delivered would be $15.
> 
> cheers steve



Hey Steve, anymore pullouters? If not, could i grab one of your PCBs with the relay and connector? Let me know how to work out payment. Thanks again!


----------



## digger

jorgy said:


> Hey Steve, anymore pullouters? If not, could i grab one of your PCBs with the relay and connector? Let me know how to work out payment. Thanks again!



I'd be interested as well if there are some leftovers.

Cheers


----------



## matho

well the parts have arrived for the last lot of 10 today so I'll be sending out PM's tonight.

Jorgy, you will get a PM tonight as well as DiggeR, everyone who has expressed interest, have or will be offered a kit. I have made a few more than the 40 kits to cover everyone. I could probably make up 3 more kits if anyone wants one.

cheers steve


----------



## matho

sorry I'll send out PM's tomorrow morning 

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

There are now 2x Bonjuino kits still available.


----------



## Lakey

Put my bonjuino together today pretty impressed with my soldering skills considering this was the first thing I have ever soldered!


----------



## matho

Lakey said:


> Put my bonjuino together today pretty impressed with my soldering skills considering this was the first thing I have ever soldered!
> View attachment 56517



well done Lakey looks good , with these manufactured boards soldering is really easy

cheers steve

P.S I'll PM you tomorrow


----------



## sean_0

Hey guys, I'll take a bonjuino and a brauduino if they're still available. If you could both pm me with details I can bank transfer or whatever you need. Already working on something similar to the brauduino myself but it might be fun to compare and take notes.

Thanks,
Sean


----------



## Lakey

matho said:


> well done Lakey looks good , with these manufactured boards soldering is really easy
> 
> cheers steve
> 
> P.S I'll PM you tomorrow


Cheers mate, it might not be up to yours or bonj's standard but im happy it turned out half desent.


----------



## Bucks

Matho and Bonj I would also love to grab one of your kits if they're still available. Great work boys Bucks


----------



## bonj

Sean_0 and bucks: There are exactly 2 bonjuinos left, so if you want them, get in quick and click the buy button on the bonjuino page here: http://www.bigfathooker.com/bfh/bonjuino.php


----------



## matho

sean_O and bucks I will be able to have a kit for you in a few days I'll PM you when they are ready

cheers steve


----------



## sean_0

Bonj said:


> Sean_0 and bucks: There are exactly 2 bonjuinos left, so if you want them, get in quick and click the buy button on the bonjuino page here: http://www.bigfathooker.com/bfh/bonjuino.php



done!




matho said:


> sean_O and bucks I will be able to have a kit for you in a few days I'll PM you when they are ready
> 
> cheers steve



thanks mate


----------



## bonj

Bonj said:


> get in quick and click the buy button on the bonjuino page here: http://www.bigfathooker.com/bfh/bonjuino.php


Scrap that.... all gone now


----------



## Bucks

Cheers Matho, payment sent Bonj, thanks boys


----------



## bonj

Bucks said:


> Cheers Matho, payment sent Bonj, thanks boys


Got it Bucks, thanks. 

I just got back from the post office to the last 2 orders, so I'll try to post them off this afternoon if the kids cooperate.


----------



## matho

well I can supply one more complete kit, I can also supply 3 x (PCB + relay + connector) for $17 each including postage 





and I can supply 2 pcb at $6 each including postage

cheers steve


----------



## domfergo

Firstly a big thank you to bojn and matho! I still cant comprehend the work you two have put into this project!

Both my boards were waiting in the mail for me when i got back from holidays a couple of days ago. I dont have any work booked in unti mid september so i have been quitley sitting in my office soldering and planing!

a couple of of quick questions

The breakout pins in the yellow box in my image? I see in some peoples setups they have soldered them in but they are not on the ones in your link bonj? they do not hook up to anything on mathos boards.. Do i need to put them in?

Bonjuino

Matho i have the 1k resistor left over? I am the kind of machenic that always has parts left over but i cant find where to put this?

Also i added a little to much solder to one of my holes and it has filled the adjacent hole with solder. Check out the picture below and you will see what i mean! it is labeled "5" on the other side of the board. Do i need to clean this out or does it not really matter as they look like the are joined anyway?

Brauduino

i am still collecting parts for my build, i have 95% now just waiting on a few fittings to get here before i start to put it all together. Earlier in the thread i asked about running two elements off the Braumiser controller and jsut wanted to check if i am wiring it correctley. i have taken your diagram and added to it matho. Earlier you said i would need two SSR, Do i just run another set of wires from the heater connection on the brauduino to the second SSR as shown in the picture below?

Wiring diagram

Cheers

Dom


----------



## matho

hey dom,

the 1K resistor was put in just to provide wire for the jumpers, mainly because when I designed the PCB I made it so the heater output would also be able to drive an optocoupler/triac arrangement, the resistor isn't needed if using an SSR. That solder in the hole is fine it won't affect it at all and the wiring diagram is spot on.

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

Massatomic said:


> Firstly a big thank you to bojn and matho! I still cant comprehend the work you two have put into this project!
> 
> Both my boards were waiting in the mail for me when i got back from holidays a couple of days ago. I dont have any work booked in unti mid september so i have been quitley sitting in my office soldering and planing!
> 
> a couple of of quick questions
> 
> The breakout pins in the yellow box in my image? I see in some peoples setups they have soldered them in but they are not on the ones in your link bonj? they do not hook up to anything on mathos boards.. Do i need to put them in?


For matho's board, they're not needed. They are there for flexibility for other projects.


----------



## Brisfox

Bonj said:


> For matho's board, they're not needed. They are there for flexibility for other projects.




Matho just tipped the money into your account. Signed as instructed.
Brisfox.


----------



## Sammus

Will there be any more runs of these kits? I'm keen for one of each!  Also, I can't actually read about what bonjuino is, I get an error when I to the URL.

Cheers,

Sam


----------



## matho

Hey Sam,

I can make up one more brauduino kit so you can have it if you want, I'll PM you when its ready ( probably monday night).

so what I have left is 1 PCB and 3 x ( PCB + relay + connector)

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

Sammus said:


> Will there be any more runs of these kits? I'm keen for one of each!  Also, I can't actually read about what bonjuino is, I get an error when I to the URL.


Hi Sammus,

Sorry about the link failure. I had a bit of a malfunction with one of my mailing lists a couple of days ago that used up all my data allowance for this month. 

The bonjuino is a kit arduino clone. It is fully arduino compatible with a few modifications. 



It houses the microcontroller that runs matho's code. I am keen to do another batch, but I need a minimum of 6 firm orders before I can order the parts. If you are in a hurry, any arduino with the standard shape will do the job, although you will have to upload the code yourself (I supply the bonjuino pre-programmed).

It is a similar story with matho's board. If matho has run out, I can do a small (10 boards) batch of the PCB only, but will need 10 orders paid for upfront (run like a bulk buy). I haven't looked into the pricing yet as matho may still have some left.


----------



## Sammus

matho said:


> Hey Sam,
> 
> I can make up one more brauduino kit so you can have it if you want, I'll PM you when its ready ( probably monday night).
> 
> so what I have left is 1 PCB and 3 x ( PCB + relay + connector)
> 
> cheers steve



Sounds good, cheers!



Bonj said:


> Hi Sammus,
> 
> Sorry about the link failure. I had a bit of a malfunction with one of my mailing lists a couple of days ago that used up all my data allowance for this month.
> 
> The bonjuino is a kit arduino clone. It is fully arduino compatible with a few modifications.
> View attachment 56572
> 
> 
> It houses the microcontroller that runs matho's code. I am keen to do another batch, but I need a minimum of 6 firm orders before I can order the parts. If you are in a hurry, any arduino with the standard shape will do the job, although you will have to upload the code yourself (I supply the bonjuino pre-programmed).
> 
> It is a similar story with matho's board. If matho has run out, I can do a small (10 boards) batch of the PCB only, but will need 10 orders paid for upfront (run like a bulk buy). I haven't looked into the pricing yet as matho may still have some left.



Sounds good to, consider me a firm order. PM me details if you need $ upfront etc.


----------



## breakbeer

Just got my kit in the mail, Big Ups!!


----------



## Lakey

Matho, just got my brauduino in the mail this morning! So excited, got an rdo tomorrow looks like im soldering and off to source the rest of the gear. Thanks heaps mate :beerbang:


----------



## matho

breakbeer said:


> Just got my kit in the mail, Big Ups!!






Lakey said:


> Matho, just got my brauduino in the mail this morning! So excited, got an rdo tomorrow looks like im soldering and off to source the rest of the gear. Thanks heaps mate :beerbang:



thanks for letting me know, if you need advice on anything just let me know.


Well the PM's have just gone out for the last 4 kits so its almost over , I do have 1 x PCB and 3 X PCB + relay + connector left for any late comers, thanks too all that have bought the kits I hope they serve you well.

cheers steve


----------



## wotafm

just got my kit a big thanks Steve

when i get this thing going the first one will be dedicated to you


----------



## Lakey

matho said:


> thanks for letting me know, if you need advice on anything just let me know.
> 
> 
> Well the PM's have just gone out for the last 4 kits so its almost over , I do have 1 x PCB and 3 X PCB + relay + connector left for any late comers, thanks too all that have bought the kits I hope they serve you well.
> 
> cheers steve


 
No thank you for all your hard work mate you have helped alot of guys on here out. :beerbang:


----------



## Brisfox

Cheers Matho got your package today.....your a ledge for doing the good work that your doing.
My contraption is nearly complete.


Bris.


----------



## bonj

Brisfox said:


> Cheers Matho got your package today.....your a ledge for doing the good work that your doing.
> My contraption is nearly complete.
> 
> 
> Bris.


Be sure to show us the results!

I have one very slowly in the works, but while I have the electronics side covered, I'm a bit of a tool tard, so the actual brewery is going to take a while


----------



## breakbeer

Hi Matho,

I scored one of these power supplies from work & I think it's the same specs as the one in your parts list but I just wanted to make sure I haven't missed anything


----------



## matho

breakbeer said:


> Hi Matho,
> 
> I scored one of these power supplies from work & I think it's the same specs as the one in your parts list but I just wanted to make sure I haven't missed anything
> 
> View attachment 56732



Looks good mate, just keep an eye on the dimensions of your parts and make sure they will fit inside the enclosure that you will use

cheers steve


----------



## Lakey

matho said:


> Looks good mate, just keep an eye on the dimensions of your parts and make sure they will fit inside the enclosure that you will use
> 
> cheers steve



Hey Matho what are the dimensions of the power supply you have, or better yet where did you get yours from? I have seen a few around but they are,all too big for the box im using (the box you recomended).


----------



## matho

Lakey said:


> Hey Matho what are the dimensions of the power supply you have, or better yet where did you get yours from? I have seen a few around but they are,all too big for the box im using (the box you recomended).



This One
Lakey

cheers steve


----------



## Lakey

matho said:


> This One
> Lakey
> 
> cheers steve



Awesome mate thats a big help. Im progressing slowly on the controller, I have all the parts except for the ssr and power supply. I have made the brauduino and bonjuino pcbs and mated them together, just today made the temp sensor and started cutting and drilling the box. I want to get the controller done before I progress with the rest of the build.


----------



## Raf

Matho / Bonj.
Is there any chance of getting in on the braudino and bonjunios our have I missed the boat?


----------



## bonj

Raf said:


> Matho / Bonj.
> Is there any chance of getting in on the braudino and bonjunios our have I missed the boat?


Not sure about matho, but from memory he only had some bare PCBs and possibly a PCB with relay left. Contact him to check that. If he is all out, contact me. When matho is all out, and I have 10x firm orders, I can do a run of the bare PCB, but I won't be making up brauduino kits. There is also the possibility that you could do a batch yourself. If you decide to do it that way, I can prepare the files for you and you can put the order in. A batch of 10x PCBs will coast around AUD$33 delivered (depending on the exchange rate. they are billed in USD)

As for the bonjuino, I am out of stock at the moment. When I get 6 firm orders, I will be able to order another batch of kits. I currently have 1 firm order and one keen interest, so if you can drum up some firm orders, you will get your kit sooner. The other alternative is to order an arduino or clone from a commercial retailer, which will require you to flash the program code to the board yourself.


----------



## Bucks

Received all the goods fella's cheers for all your work, Bucks


----------



## sean_0

Got my brauduino today, bonjuino already received and put together. Thanks guys.

Sean


----------



## markymoo

my controller is *almost* there, just need to wait for my temp sensors from ebay (bought one of the ones pre-manufactured with leads) and then sort out the rest of the brewery.

Fired it up on the weekend, seems like it works well, will show pics once it gets along a bit further.
Mark


----------



## bonj

I'm looking forward to seeing some of these in action.


----------



## matho

Raf said:


> Matho / Bonj.
> Is there any chance of getting in on the braudino and bonjunios our have I missed the boat?



Hey Raf there are no complete kits left but I do have 2 X (PCB + relay + connector) left and 1 PCB 
the PCB+relay+connector costs $17 and the PCB costs $6



Bucks said:


> Received all the goods fella's cheers for all your work, Bucks






sean_0 said:


> Got my brauduino today, bonjuino already received and put together. Thanks guys.
> 
> Sean



good too hear guys 



markymoo said:


> my controller is *almost* there, just need to wait for my temp sensors from ebay (bought one of the ones pre-manufactured with leads) and then sort out the rest of the brewery.
> 
> Fired it up on the weekend, seems like it works well, will show pics once it gets along a bit further.
> Mark



sounds good mark will be waiting for photo's

cheers steve


----------



## TonyC

Recieved mine on Monday, all good, again thanks.

Tony


----------



## suchidog

markymoo said:


> my controller is *almost* there, just need to wait for my temp sensors from ebay (bought one of the ones pre-manufactured with leads)


Would you mind posting a link?


----------



## blotto

suchidog said:


> Would you mind posting a link?


these are too easy to find on ebay just search DS18B20 im on my phone sohere is the link so hope it works on a computer. Sorry this is a new phone so cant hyperlink it http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/searchre...ue&cmd=SREF

thank you Markymoo for pointing these out!


----------



## muay

> As for the bonjuino, I am out of stock at the moment. When I get 6 firm orders, I will be able to order another batch of kits.



Hey Bonj, I'm keen for a bonjuino, so +1 for firm orders.
Matt


----------



## frostih

Wort said:


> these are too easy to find on ebay just search DS18B20 im on my phone sohere is the link so hope it works on a computer. Sorry this is a new phone so cant hyperlink it http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/searchre...ue&cmd=SREF
> 
> thank you Markymoo for pointing these out!



Hi, I saw this one here which seems to be a good option as well. It costs a little bit more but will make it easier when it comes to putting the thermometer watertight into the brew pot. 

Just in case anyone is interested.

http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=1276


----------



## PeteQ

Received board yesterday, thanks Matho!

All parts have been ordered and it should all be built in about 2 weeks. I'll post some photos when its all done.

Cheers


----------



## domfergo

matho said:


> This One
> Lakey
> 
> cheers steve




Just a quick heads up

i bought a power suppy from the same place matho did on ebay. The package took over 6 weeks to get here and i ended up with something completley different to what i ordered. Seems from the sellers feedback on ebay it happens quite a bit.
I have emailed them but not heard back yet, i think for $7 dollars its not worth my time persueing....

anyone have have a use for one of these?

pay for postage and its yours... i have no use for it!

Cheers 

Mass


----------



## Lakey

Massatomic said:


> Just a quick heads up
> 
> i bought a power suppy from the same place matho did on ebay. The package took over 6 weeks to get here and i ended up with something completley different to what i ordered. Seems from the sellers feedback on ebay it happens quite a bit.
> I have emailed them but not heard back yet, i think for $7 dollars its not worth my time persueing....
> 
> anyone have have a use for one of these?
> 
> pay for postage and its yours... i have no use for it!
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Mass


Shit I already ordered.one the other day  oh well see what turns up I s'pose, I got an email sayong they posted it already.


----------



## domfergo

Lakey said:


> Shit I already ordered.one the other day  oh well see what turns up I s'pose, I got an email sayong they posted it already.



I am sure it's just a shipping mistake as there is some better reviews for the same item.... Matho obviously got his

Just a pain


----------



## bonj

Massatomic said:


> I am sure it's just a shipping mistake as there is some better reviews for the same item.... Matho obviously got his
> 
> Just a pain


I ordered the same psu from this same seller and received it as ordered in about 3 weeks. Sounds like they mixed up your order with another one. I'd ask them to fix it at their cost and see what they do.


----------



## domfergo

That's exactly what I did, interested to see if they come back to me, sure as hell dont want to wait another six weeks for another one though!


----------



## Judanero

Bonj +1 on firm order. PM me if you want a deposit or cash up front... cheers


----------



## bonj

Judanero said:


> Bonj +1 on firm order. PM me if you want a deposit or cash up front... cheers


You're on the list!

Only 2 more until I can place a parts order.


----------



## sboreham

+1 firm order for me also


----------



## bonj

Okay guys, I need you all to be clear what you intend on ordering. I was under the impression we are talking about bonjuinos, but I just had a realisation that we are in the matho's controller thread, so I want you all the confirm for me which you are talking about.

As I said earlier in the thread, when matho runs out of brauduinos, I will not be putting together a full brauduino kit, just a PCB.


----------



## sboreham

Bonj said:


> Okay guys, I need you all to be clear what you intend on ordering. I was under the impression we are talking about bonjuinos, but I just had a realisation that we are in the matho's controller thread, so I want you all the confirm for me which you are talking about.
> 
> As I said earlier in the thread, when matho runs out of brauduinos, I will not be putting together a full brauduino kit, just a PCB.



Hi Bonj, 
I was talking about the bonjuino's, although I have sent Matho a PM to see if he has any PCB's. If he says he's run out ill let you know.


----------



## bonj

ShaneyB said:


> Hi Bonj,
> I was talking about the bonjuino's, although I have sent Matho a PM to see if he has any PCB's. If he says he's run out ill let you know.


Ahh brilliant. I though that was the case, but it doesn't hurt to clarify.


----------



## matho

well it looks like the last 2 pbc+relay+connectors are spoken for 

thanks to all that have participated 

cheers steve


----------



## Judanero

ShaneyB said:


> Hi Bonj,
> I was talking about the bonjuino's




+1 B)


----------



## tynian

Hey Guys,

I have been reading the Braumiser thread along with bits of this one.

I am very keen to get started on a Braumiser type of build and would love to get my hands on this controller.

I have downloaded Matho's docs and I am sure I could put one of these together easily enough.

My question is this: Are there any of these prebuilt board still available?

If not, what options do I have?

This is all very exciting - I have not done a project like this since the kids were born 

Cheers
Rob


----------



## dmac80

tynian said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I have been reading the Braumiser thread along with bits of this one.
> 
> I am very keen to get started on a Braumiser type of build and would love to get my hands on this controller.
> 
> I have downloaded Matho's docs and I am sure I could put one of these together easily enough.
> 
> My question is this: Are there any of these prebuilt board still available?
> 
> If not, what options do I have?
> 
> This is all very exciting - I have not done a project like this since the kids were born
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



Hi Rob,

I can't speak for Matho in regards to the availability of the boards (although i think a little earlier in the thread Matho indicates that the last of the PCB's are gone), i have used an arduino prototyping shield for my inputs and outputs for the arduino, using Matho's schematic and the same components.

Arduinos and shields can be purchased fairly cheaply on Ebay, or Bonj sells his Bonjuino, which is compatible with arduino shields i believe.

Cheers
Dan


----------



## bonj

dmac said:


> Hi Rob,
> 
> I can't speak for Matho in regards to the availability of the boards (although i think a little earlier in the thread Matho indicates that the last of the PCB's are gone), i have used an arduino prototyping shield for my inputs and outputs for the arduino, using Matho's schematic and the same components.
> 
> Arduinos and shields can be purchased fairly cheaply on Ebay, or Bonj sells his Bonjuino, which is compatible with arduino shields i believe.
> 
> Cheers
> Dan


Yes, Matho is all out of PCB's... but fret not because we can print more.
The files are available for anyone to use, and it's not too hard to have 10 more made for about $35 delivered. I had a thought that it might be a good idea for someone who wants one to order a batch of 10 and offer the remaining on here like a bulk buy or something. I can help prepare the files for you if you want to do that.

The bonjuino is out of stock, but I only need one more firm order before I can order another batch. dmac is correct that the current revision is fully compatible with standard shields.


----------



## matho

tynian said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I have been reading the Braumiser thread along with bits of this one.
> 
> I am very keen to get started on a Braumiser type of build and would love to get my hands on this controller.
> 
> I have downloaded Matho's docs and I am sure I could put one of these together easily enough.
> 
> My question is this: Are there any of these prebuilt board still available?
> 
> If not, what options do I have?
> 
> This is all very exciting - I have not done a project like this since the kids were born
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



sorry Rob but the have all been spoken for but as dan and bonj pointed out you don't really need the PCB it just make it easier. If you want a PCB then all the files have been made available so other people can get the PCB's made up.
Again sorry that I can't supply you a kit but I put a limit that I thought would cover the initial demand, which it has and it takes a bit of time to put together kits and at the moment I don't have much time.

Thanks to all who have bought the kits I'm hoping to see a few braumiser appearing soon.
as for the numbers per state 
Qld 14
Vic 12
NSW 12
SA 6
WA 4
TAS 1
NT 1

cheers steve


----------



## [email protected]

matho said:


> sorry Rob but the have all been spoken for but as dan and bonj pointed out you don't really need the PCB it just make it easier. If you want a PCB then all the files have been made available so other people can get the PCB's made up.
> Again sorry that I can't supply you a kit but I put a limit that I thought would cover the initial demand, which it has and it takes a bit of time to put together kits and at the moment I don't have much time.
> 
> Thanks to all who have bought the kits I'm hoping to see a few braumiser appearing soon.
> as for the numbers per state
> Qld 14
> Vic 12
> NSW 12
> SA 6
> WA 4
> TAS 1
> NT 1
> 
> cheers steve



G'day Matho,
I received your kit quite a while ago, but have only just got round to fitting it all together as I have been working away from home.It is all going together easily so far thanks, I have the SS pots at my mates workshop getting modified , so hopefully will have it all up and running soon.I will post some pics when done.thanks again, well done on putting it all together and thanks also to Bonj for his controller

Cheers
Swampy


----------



## blotto

matho said:


> sorry Rob but the have all been spoken for but as dan and bonj pointed out you don't really need the PCB it just make it easier. If you want a PCB then all the files have been made available so other people can get the PCB's made up.
> Again sorry that I can't supply you a kit but I put a limit that I thought would cover the initial demand, which it has and it takes a bit of time to put together kits and at the moment I don't have much time.
> 
> Thanks to all who have bought the kits I'm hoping to see a few braumiser appearing soon.
> as for the numbers per state
> Qld 14
> Vic 12
> NSW 12
> SA 6
> WA 4
> TAS 1
> NT 1
> 
> cheers steve


Only 4 from WA? Everyone else must be using Nev's controller. I've been working on mine in dribs and drabs and have almost everything installed. I just have to install the IEC power In and that half of the box will be done, I've decided to upgrade to a 16A lead and IEC in connector they are the blue ones in Jaycar HERE and HERE they are nice looking components that should be better suited to handling the 15A I expect to put through it. 

Thanks for your hard work Steve you've already provided me with hours of thought provoking entertainment and I have a few hours to go as well! 

Cheers


----------



## tynian

Thanks Dmac, Matho and Bonj,

I probably need to read some more to figure out exactly what I need to do.

Roughly I think I will need a Bonjuino plus a pcb, then the parts off the list that Matho has given, does that sound right?

Cheers
Rob


----------



## markymoo

getting there with my controller, 

got the controller finished, pretty happy with it, wired up the premanufactured probes I ordered last night, now I have temperature readings 

If anyone else buys the premanufactured temp probes as linked previously in this thread, they may benefit from the following;

My probes came with blue/brown/black leads instead of the yellow/red/black, but for reference the blue is data, brown is power and black is ground

Now I just need to sort out my malt pipe and pump/plumbing.

I am considering modifying a bigw 20L pot to be housed inside my 40L crown urn as a malt pipe. Reckon i need perforated base to the pot aswell as a perforated lid?
Markymoo


----------



## PeteQ

Matho or anyone else in the know
I've put together the controller and the LCD, menu, temperature, buttons, LEDs work perfectly but i have a constant 2V across the buzzer terminals, 5V across the element terminals (12V when heat on) and once the pump relay is engaged it doesn't disengage until i pull the plug (all in manual mode). Both the heat and pump LEDs turn on and off when they're meant to.

I've tried my best to fault find and check all of the solders to the PCB and it seems there are no shorts or dodgy welds. Could it possibly be a faulty component or incorrect component?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Cheers


----------



## matho

hey Pete,

two things to check, one is that you only have one jumper in for the relay, either the 5v position for a 5v relay or the 12v position for a 12v relay. The second one is the transistors there are 2 different pin outs for the 2n2222a, if you got them from jaycar they sell both types depending on stock HERE just check the type of NPN transistor you have and correct the orientation of it. A guy in brazil built a brauduino and he had a very similar problem and it turned out to be the transistors were around the wrong way

If that doesn't work take a picture of both sides of the board and post them so we can see if there is anything wrong.

cheers steve


----------



## PeteQ

Steve and to all whos building the brauduino,
My issue was a crappy power supply, it didn't have a true dc output. I found the outputs had a similar AC and DC voltage which i found by accident last night. I plugged it into the computer this morning to the usb port and everything worked perfectly.

Thanks for your help anyway Steve, the orientation of the transistors might help someone else down the track? All who has/will put this together owes you a beer or 2!

Cheers


----------



## PeteQ

I received the 12v power supply today, wired it up and still the same problem.
I've had another thorough check to see if there are any shorts and can't find anything. I've uploaded full size images to SWMBOs flickr -

http://www.flickr.com/photos/krystlesevill...in/photostream/ 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/krystlesevill...in/photostream/ 

This is doing my head in. Mondays are meant to be the dry night in the house.......

I probably should mention that i did try changing the orientation of the middle transistor and still the same crap.

Again any help would be appreciated


----------



## matho

Hey Pete,

If you have a multimeter could you measure the resistance between 12+ and GND (1), 5+ and GND (2) and 5+ and 12+(3) for me, please remove the arduino before measuring.





could you also remove the adruino and put the 12v on and measure the voltages again, I'm thinking there is a high resistance short to ground, maybe near terminal 5 on the relay. there is a ground plane around almost every terminal so a little bit of solder might have got through the coating and is touching ground.
I'll measure my board when I get home tonight.

cheers steve


----------



## PeteQ

Matho
1 = infinity
2 = 5.81k
3 = 0
+12v to +5 = infinity

voltages
5v + and - = 0V
buzzer = 6.5v
heater = 6.5v

Arduino board was taken off before all readings were taken


----------



## matho

Ok pete thats exactly what I'm getting, the only thing I can think of now is that there is something wrong with the transistors, I have measured my board and there is no voltage across any of the two outputs when the outputs are off. Are the transistors are definitely 2n2222a? Later tonight I'll measure the voltage across the emitter, base and collector of the transistors for you. We will get to the bottom of this I'm sure.

cheers steve


----------



## PeteQ

The transistors are marked 
2n
2222
a338


----------



## matho

PeteQ said:


> The transistors are marked
> 2n
> 2222
> a338




OK I have just tested my unit with jaycar bought 2n2222a338 and it displays the same problem, I reversed the transistor for the buzzer and it fixed the problem.
Pete I would chop the head off the transistor and pull one leg out at a time as it was very hard to pull the transistor out whole with out damaging the board. 

The last 6 kits that got sent out had these transistors in them so if you could check and see if you have transistors labelled 2n2222a338 please install thenm backwards. I'll be sending PM's out to those I think got those transistors tonight.

the first lot of 40 kits had transistors got from a different supplier and they are to be installed the right way they are labelled p2n2222a AO8
sorry 

steve


----------



## PeteQ

Thanks so much for your help Steve! 
I'll change all of them and let you know how I go


----------



## bonj

I am currently taking pre-orders for another batch of bonjuinos. Parts have been ordered and will arrive in about 2 weeks.

PM me if you're interested and I will send you a link to the payment page.


----------



## matho

PeteQ said:


> Thanks so much for your help Steve!
> I'll change all of them and let you know how I go



no thank you Pete, I have now found a potential problem, hopefully those 6 or so people haven't put the kits together. What really irks me is both suppliers have the same datasheet for those type of transistors so I thought it would be OK. I didn't want to put an order in for 10 kits and have 4 sitting around so I just got those last lot from jaycar. 

IF YOUR KIT CAME WITH BLACK PIN HEADERS INSTEAD OF GREEN THEN YOU WILL HAVE THE JAYCAR SOURCED TRANSISTORS 

cheers steve


----------



## markymoo

Green = good, black = bad?


----------



## matho

markymoo said:


> Green = good, black = bad?



yeah mark you are right its only the last few kits I made up, because there wasn't a lot of 10 I didn't order from the supplier that I did for the first 40 kits 

cheers steve


----------



## matho

Ok if your buying parts from Jaycar I would go with the BC547 as it has the right pin out for the board and they only sell one type. I originally designed the board for BC547's but I went with 2N2222a as they have a higher current rating (500mA compared to 100mA) but the BC547 will easily handle the 34mA that the relay will draw. 

cheers steve


----------



## Edak

Thank you for identifying this issue, I am about to solder together a Bonj and Matho controller for someone here on the forum and this would have driven me (and him) nuts!


----------



## tynian

Bonj said:


> I am currently taking pre-orders for another batch of bonjuinos. Parts have been ordered and will arrive in about 2 weeks.
> 
> PM me if you're interested and I will send you a link to the payment page.



Hi Bonj, 

I am interested, can you please send me the link.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## bonj

tynian, PM sent.

That's it folks. All kits from this batch are accounted for.


----------



## [email protected]

Hello Matho,
I have assembled your board and married it to Bonj's board.
All good, I am waiting for my mate to finish the SS build for the pot, malt pipe etc.
I tested the board today, the heater works ok, but the pump will not start...... I can hear the relay click when I manually start the pump, but no pump action. testing the pump outlet connector on your board, I get no current at all. turning the board over, I am not sure which points to test for to see if the relay is outputting the 12 v to the pump............
do you ave any suggestions on where I go from here? Is it possible that in my neanderthal attempts at soldering I have wrecked the board?? Hope not?

Cheers swampy


----------



## matho

Swampy said:


> Hello Matho,
> I have assembled your board and married it to Bonj's board.
> All good, I am waiting for my mate to finish the SS build for the opt, malt pipe etc.
> I tested the board today, the heater works ok, but the pump will not start...... I can hear the relay click when I manually start the pump, but no pump action. testing the pump outlet connector on your board, I get no current at all. turning the board over, I am not sure which points to test for to see if the relay is outputting the 12 v to the pump............
> do you ave any suggestions on where I go from here? Is it possible that in my neanderthal attempts at soldering I have wrecked the board?? Hope not?
> 
> Cheers swampy




hey swampy, the relay doesn't put out any voltage, all it does is switch on or off. On two way terminal marked pump one terminal goes to one side of the switch and the other one goes to the other side of the switch. So the make the pump work put 12v+ in to one of those terminals and put the pump + lead into the other, the - lead of the pump is connected to - . The reason I didn't make it put out 12v is because some people will want to control 240v pumps too, so its just a switch.

cheers steve


----------



## [email protected]

matho said:


> hey swampy, the relay doesn't put out any voltage, all it does is switch on or off. On two way terminal marked pump one terminal goes to one side of the switch and the other one goes to the other side of the switch. So the make the pump work put 12v+ in to one of those terminals and put the pump + lead into the other, the - lead of the pump is connected to - . The reason I didn't make it put out 12v is because some people will want to control 240v pumps too, so its just a switch.
> 
> cheers steve



Thanks mate, All fixed and no problems.
Cheers


----------



## matho

Swampy said:


> Thanks mate, All fixed and no problems.
> Cheers



Thats good to hear 

cheers


----------



## ausdb

I know I'm late to the party but this is just a quick post to see if anyone has had an enthusiasm breakdown and has a spare kit that they are not going to make use of and would like to offload.

or

Matho are there any bare PCB's available?


----------



## Edak

Just wanted to say your kit went together nicely, i skipped cutting that stand off because i had some 6.3mm spares lying around.
I might also add that in Arduino 1.0.1 your custom character is stuffed so i changed the character number and it worked a great.

I was putting it together for breakbeer before you ask...


----------



## matho

sorry ausdb they are all gone

Hey Edak, good to hear it went well, I have just updated to 1.0.1 to see if my code caused errors, it compiled well. just a quick question were you using a .pde version or the .ino version

cheers steve


----------



## Edak

matho said:


> sorry ausdb they are all gone
> 
> Hey Edak, good to hear it went well, I have just updated to 1.0.1 to see if my code caused errors, it compiled well. just a quick question were you using a .pde version or the .ino version
> 
> cheers steve


It was the one in the zip file in your signature, which i thought was the latest one...


----------



## matho

Edak said:


> It was the one in the zip file in your signature, which i thought was the latest one...



it is, what did you have to change?

I'm using the linux version by the way


----------



## reg

Hi Matho,

I have finished soldering your kit and also the Bonjuino.
I am new to all the arduino so just have two more questions.

1/ How do I communicate with kits? eg leads etc.
2/ Do I need to download a software package or anything else?

Cheers
Reg :beer:


----------



## kelbygreen

Matho will not be replying to threads or PM for a while. 

He has asked me to let you all know, So please dont feel offended if he does not reply he has a few family issues ATM and would be good if we all respect that.

Thanks all hope you understand!


----------



## Edak

reg said:


> Hi Matho,
> 
> I have finished soldering your kit and also the Bonjuino.
> I am new to all the arduino so just have two more questions.
> 
> 1/ How do I communicate with kits? eg leads etc.
> 2/ Do I need to download a software package or anything else?
> 
> Cheers
> Reg :beer:



Hey Reg, 

How you talk to the arduino depends on the one you choose, most have a USB connection, so you can program it directly with your PC. However some don't have a USB connection (Bonjuino included), which means you need a separate programmer to do the work. Either way all you need is the Arduino software to program it.

Personally I would get one with USB, makes it easier.

cheap option (4 week lead time)

quick option 1

quick option 2


----------



## bonj

reg said:


> Hi Matho,
> 
> I have finished soldering your kit and also the Bonjuino.
> I am new to all the arduino so just have two more questions.
> 
> 1/ How do I communicate with kits? eg leads etc.
> 2/ Do I need to download a software package or anything else?
> 
> Cheers
> Reg :beer:


Sorry Reg, I missed this post.

There is no immediate need to update the software on the bonjuino for the brauduino shield because it is already at the latest version. If you wish to modify the code, you will need one of the programmers like what edak linked above, mathos code, and the arduino software (version 1 or higher).


----------



## Edak

Bonj said:


> Sorry Reg, I missed this post.
> 
> There is no immediate need to update the software on the bonjuino for the brauduino shield because it is already at the latest version. If you wish to modify the code, you will need one of the programmers like what edak linked above, mathos code, and the arduino software (version 1 or higher).



Hah, I didn't know that Bonj had code on it by default.

I dusted off the old AVRISP to program it and never powered it up before that...


----------



## bonj

Edak said:


> Hah, I didn't know that Bonj had code on it by default.
> 
> I dusted off the old AVRISP to program it and never powered it up before that...


I flash all the atmegas with the brauduino code because that is by far the most common purpose for the bonjuino. It's little effort for me to flash the lot of them, and makes it a cheaper turnkey option for anyone that doesn't want to do it themselves.


----------



## breakbeer

Edak said:


> Hah, I didn't know that Bonj had code on it by default.
> 
> I dusted off the old AVRISP to program it and never powered it up before that...




:lol: , I probably should've mentioned that when I sent it to you


----------



## Edak

breakbeer said:


> :lol: , I probably should've mentioned that when I sent it to you



Hah! It's all good, I actually like to confirm that everything works well and now I have the device set up for any customisations you might want.


----------



## tynian

Hi guys,

I had asked Matho this question via pm, but since he is away away for a bit I wonder if someone here can help?

I have a bonjuino on the way, thanks bonj.

As such I am working with the build guide Matho has created and am wondering where the best place is to purchase all the parts to make the brauduino shield? 

Even better would be if someone who has built one might be able to pm me a list with part no's etc.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## dmac80

tynian said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I had asked Matho this question via pm, but since he is away away for a bit I wonder if someone here can help?
> 
> I have a bonjuino on the way, thanks bonj.
> 
> As such I am working with the build guide Matho has created and am wondering where the best place is to purchase all the parts to make the brauduino shield?
> 
> Even better would be if someone who has built one might be able to pm me a list with part no's etc.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



Pretty sure there was a parts list hidden somewhere amongst the posts in this thread, have you read the whole thread from the start?

Cheers
Dan

Edit: Here's the assembly instructions

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&id=54778

You will still need to get the pcb manufactured, apparently they the mob that was doing them does them in a batch of 10 for $33.  I will buy a couple off you if you get 10 made.

Second Edit: Here's the parts list

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&id=53997


----------



## tynian

Hi dmac

I will be getting some boards made up, I will happily put you down for as many as you need.

I have printed and read the docs several times now.

There is a shield parts list doc, but it does not really indicate a supplier or their part numbers.

I was just hoping to get a shortcut here, otherwise I will just do some looking around. Potentially looking at element14 for this gear.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## dmac80

tynian said:


> Hi dmac
> 
> I will be getting some boards made up, I will happily put you down for as many as you need.
> 
> I have printed and read the docs several times now.
> 
> There is a shield parts list doc, but it does not really indicate a supplier or their part numbers.
> 
> I was just hoping to get a shortcut here, otherwise I will just do some looking around. Potentially looking at element14 for this gear.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



I managed to edit the post above you before i realised that you replied......

The second link has supplier and part numbers, and i'll take whatever pcb's you don't want. I'm sure they'll come in useful.

Cheers
Dan


----------



## tynian

dmac said:


> I managed to edit the post above you before i realised that you replied......
> 
> The second link has supplier and part numbers, and i'll take whatever pcb's you don't want. I'm sure they'll come in useful.
> 
> Cheers
> Dan


Thanks Dan

That was exactly what I needed.

I will let you know once I have the boards.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## luke_j

I'll jump on board for a PCB if there's any available.

Bonj, do you have any intent for another run of Bonjuinos?


----------



## bonj

luke_j said:


> I'll jump on board for a PCB if there's any available.
> 
> Bonj, do you have any intent for another run of Bonjuinos?


I will probably do another run. I'll put your name on the list and when we get enough (around 6 or 7, depending on parts prices and exchange rate), I can do another batch.

I'm still waiting on the microcontrollers to arrive for the current batch, sorry to those waiting on them. I expected to have them already, bu my supplier took a week longer than normal to ship them, which is a pain.


----------



## luke_j

Excellent news! Cheers.


----------



## ausdb

tynian said:


> Hi dmac
> 
> I will be getting some boards made up, I will happily put you down for as many as you need.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob


I will also grab a PCB if you are having some made, if you don't mind

Maybe we could look at a bulk purchase of the major components?


----------



## tynian

ausdb said:


> I will also grab a PCB if you are having some made, if you don't mind
> 
> Maybe we could look at a bulk purchase of the major components?



Luke and ausdb,

I will put each of you down for a board. They should come to bugger all in cost, so we can sort that out later.

I am preparing the files and order now.

Rob.


----------



## Raf

tynian said:


> Luke and ausdb,
> 
> I will put each of you down for a board. They should come to bugger all in cost, so we can sort that out later.
> 
> I am preparing the files and order now.
> 
> Rob.




Rob,
Can you put me down for a board as well it would be greatly appreciated

Thanks 
Paul


----------



## tynian

Raf said:


> Rob,
> Can you put me down for a board as well it would be greatly appreciated
> 
> Thanks
> Paul



Done.


----------



## breakbeer

Edak said:


> Hah! It's all good, I actually like to confirm that everything works well and now I have the device set up for any customisations you might want.



Awesome, I've got a couple of minor alts in mind
Finally got around to Jaycar today & picked up the rest of the parts I needed, time to start cutting & drilling the enclosure!


----------



## real_beer

[RANT]
Anyone else notice the PP-4009 clip in socket fits a panel thickness of 0.8 - 3mm



But the PS-4002 only fits up to 1mm.


I've only got two to do but what a pain in the ass trimming the tabs if you had to use them all the time.
I suppose most of them are used in metal panels but if they can allow for it in the PP-4009's why not the other.
Jaycar also have blue ones but they only allow for 1.2mm. The screw in type are too big to fit in the space available. 
I ended up using a razor blade to trim the tabs but no doubt electronics wizards have a special tool to cut them with. 
[/RANT]
I've also decided I'm going to get a blue one so I can colour code the march pump & heating element differently.
Matho sure did a fantastic job planning the real estate with this box though.
Now I've just got to wait a week for the Chinese to finish their holiday before my power supply is sent  then probably another two for the postman to deliver :lol:


----------



## breakbeer

bit quiet at work today, made a few of these:


----------



## Superoo

Just let you know that I've made up some stick on facia panels for the Braudino, and posted a thread in the Gear and Equipment section.

Not sure if its cosha to post in 2 places, sorry if it isn't.

Cheers,


----------



## Edak

breakbeer said:


> bit quiet at work today, made a few of these:
> 
> View attachment 57614



Nice!

Although I am sure you have the tools for cutting your enclosure, if you need a hand with anything let me know. 

You can use that same vinyl sticker material to make a nice face for your box, which means you don't have to have a nice even cut out for your LCD, just use a clear piece of plastic for a window and use the vinyl to create a bezel/decoration.

Am considering doing it with mine.


----------



## tynian

Hi Guys,

Looking at the partsa on mathos electronics list the COM-10509 does not seem to exist on Littlebird anymore.

Would this COM-00100 be a suitable replacement?

Thanks
Rob


----------



## PeteQ

> Hi Guys,
> 
> Looking at the partsa on mathos electronics list the COM-10509 does not seem to exist on Littlebird anymore.
> 
> Would this COM-00100 be a suitable replacement?
> 
> Thanks
> Rob



Rob I've put together the brauduino with all parts apart from the relay and connector from jaycar. 

What part exactly is the COM-10509??


----------



## tynian

PeteQ said:


> Rob I've put together the brauduino with all parts apart from the relay and connector from jaycar.
> 
> What part exactly is the COM-10509??


Hey Pete,

That is the relay. From everything I can tell, this is the replacement for the one that matho used which has been discontinued.

Rob.


----------



## PeteQ

try http://au.element14.com/omron-electronic-c...2vdc/dp/9919015


----------



## Superoo

Hey PeteQ, what is this relay switching ?
Its rated at 5A.


----------



## PeteQ

Superoo,
Its only switching the pump, the little brown pump I'm using draws only 0.8A


----------



## bonj

Also try rs components as their prices include postage, so are good for one off purchases, and i also happen to know that that is where matho bought the ones for his kits.


----------



## bonj

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/non-l...relays/6279044/


----------



## matho

I haven't been able to reply lately because my 5 yo daughter has been in intensive care because of a seizure, she has sustained brain damage but how much is permanent we don't know, she has got out of ICU today and is in the neuro ward. 

As for the relay I picked it because I could get it from RS and it was also on little bird but then they removed it from little bird, it can always be changed if the boards haven't been ordered yet, just find a relay that is about the same size because it is fairly close to the arduino. I'm really happy to see new boards are being made up and the brauduino project getting a life of its own.

I'll be spending most of the next week in hospital with my daughter.

cheers steve


----------



## Superoo

Wishing your daughter and yourselves well Matho, hope all goes very well for her, you're in our thoughts mate. 

Cheers,
Chris and Josie.


----------



## jonw

Likewise here, Steve. Our thoughts are with you and your family.

Cheers,

jon


----------



## bonj

Matho, I am sorry to hear of your daughter's illness, and am sure I speak for everyone here when I say that we are wishing her a full and speedy recovery.


----------



## tynian

Bonj said:


> Matho, I am sorry to hear of your daughter's illness, and am sure I speak for everyone here when I say that we are wishing her a full and speedy recovery.


Completely agree.


----------



## sinkas

Hope the kid is ok Matho
Are there any boards still available?


----------



## Edak

Only just caught up on this topic, I am very sorry to hear your news Matho and I wish you and your Daughter all the best. I used to work in Neuro and it's extraordinarily hard seeing kids coming in, I couldn't even imagine what it would be like as a parent.


----------



## matho

thanks for all the well wishes, she is slowly waking up and each day there is a small improvement.

sinkas I have no more boards available but I think tynian is ordering more if I'm not mistaken 

cheers steve


----------



## Raf

tynian said:


> Done.


Tynian,

Just after an update on your batch of boards, have you got enough interest for the next batch?
Do I need to arrange payment somehow?


----------



## Sammus

Howdy, has any anyone tried using one of these power supplies?


----------



## tynian

Hi guys,

I have had an email from the pcb manufacturer and the boards have been shipped.

I would expect that they will arrive in the next week or so.

Just a note for all those interested, I am only supplying the pcb, not the components.

For those who indicated an interest in the board, I will let you know the cost and payment method via pm.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## Malted

Hey Bonj, I am a complete noob* at this and am not sure how to get things going.

*I speak & comprehend 'computer speak' as good as I speak & comprehend German, Italian etc.

I downloaded the Arduino program and unzipped it.
I plugged in the two boards through the mini usb.
Updated the driver and it shows as a USB serial port on Com3. 
Opened Arduino.
I sketch/compiled Matho's eeprom to the boards.
I tried to sketch/compile the braudino2 to them and got these error messages:

brauduino2:27: error: 'OneWire' does not name a type
brauduino2:101: error: 'PID' does not name a type
brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void Temperature()':
brauduino2:195: error: 'ds' was not declared in this scope
brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void PID_HEAT()':
brauduino2:239: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
brauduino2:243: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void load_pid_settings()':
brauduino2:263: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void setup()':
brauduino2:1008: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
brauduino2:1008: error: 'AUTOMATIC' was not declared in this scope 

Can you talk me through it?


----------



## vortex

I'm not Bonj, but it sounds like you're missing the PID and OneWire libraries from your Arduino IDE. 

You'll need to get:
OneWire: http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/OneWire http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/arduino_libraries/OneWire.zip
PID: http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/PIDLibrary https://github.com/br3ttb/Arduino-PID-Library/zipball/master

Download the libraries linked above, and place them in "My Documents\Arduino\libraries\" (assuming Windows). 

Restart the Arduino IDE, and then re-try the build.
Should be good to go from there


----------



## bonj

Okay, you are missing some libraries. Close down the arduino program and....

You will need to install: 
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/arduino_libraries/OneWire.zip
https://github.com/br3ttb/Arduino-PID-Library/zipball/master

into My Documents\Arduino\libraries\

(I had to google the library location for windows, so I hope that is correct)

Now restart the arduino program, and you should be good to go... let me know if you get any more errors



Malted said:


> Hey Bonj, I am a complete noob* at this and am not sure how to get things going.
> 
> *I speak & comprehend 'computer speak' as good as I speak & comprehend German, Italian etc.
> 
> I downloaded the Arduino program and unzipped it.
> I plugged in the two boards through the mini usb.
> Updated the driver and it shows as a USB serial port on Com3.
> Opened Arduino.
> I sketch/compiled Matho's eeprom to the boards.
> I tried to sketch/compile the braudino2 to them and got these error messages:
> 
> brauduino2:27: error: 'OneWire' does not name a type
> brauduino2:101: error: 'PID' does not name a type
> brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void Temperature()':
> brauduino2:195: error: 'ds' was not declared in this scope
> brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void PID_HEAT()':
> brauduino2:239: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> brauduino2:243: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void load_pid_settings()':
> brauduino2:263: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> brauduino2.cpp: In function 'void setup()':
> brauduino2:1008: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> brauduino2:1008: error: 'AUTOMATIC' was not declared in this scope
> 
> Can you talk me through it?


----------



## PeteQ

matho said:


> To compile the code additional libraries will need to be installed, the instructions on how to install libraries are found HERE
> and the libraries are the 'onewire' library found HERE and
> the PIDV1 library found HERE
> 
> once they are installed you should be able to compile the code with out errors
> 
> cheers steve



Malted

Matho mentions waaay back how to do it. This way worked perfectly for me.

I think Matho played around with these libraries to suit his code??

Cheers


----------



## bonj

PeteQ said:


> Malted
> 
> Matho mentions waaay back how to do it. This way worked perfectly for me.
> 
> I think Matho played around with these libraries to suit his code??
> 
> Cheers


Yes he did play around with the PID library, but decided not to use the customised version in the end, in favour of just setting the ouput to 100% when the current temp is 5 or more C below the target.

I have used the custom version in my HERMS controller though.


----------



## rodda

hi guys, got my brauduino all wired up with my best dodgy soldering skills. The program works with everything bar the heater output. I get no voltage out of the Heater + and - wondering if there is anything I can check? Whilst I was trying to be intelligent and fix it my self I managed to short an Audrino board so brought one of the Jaycar "freetronics Eleven" boards, which doesn't seem to read the temp probe. All I got was 85 degrees, now it is 0.  wondering If I have totally broken it. Any thoughts.....Is it a throw of the balcony and start again..... <_< 

Sorry to hear the news Matho, Best whishes for your family.


----------



## PeteQ

rodda said:


> hi guys, got my brauduino all wired up with my best dodgy soldering skills. The program works with everything bar the heater output. I get no voltage out of the Heater + and - wondering if there is anything I can check? Whilst I was trying to be intelligent and fix it my self I managed to short an Audrino board so brought one of the Jaycar "freetronics Eleven" boards, which doesn't seem to read the temp probe. All I got was 85 degrees, now it is 0.  wondering If I have totally broken it. Any thoughts.....Is it a throw of the balcony and start again..... <_<
> 
> Sorry to hear the news Matho, Best whishes for your family.



Rodda,
Make sure your DS18B20 is wired correctly and you have the terminals welded nicely to the board. Tightening up the terminals can pop the welds off, make sure this hasn't happened. I'll play around with it tonight to see if I can get 85 and 0 to show.
As for the heater output does the red LED light up? I'm assuming you have it wired up to a SSR? If you have a multimeter check for shorts across the heater transistor legs. I had heaps of issues with the transistors and if they are shorted i definitely know there is no output on the corresponding terminals.
If you wire up the 12V input terminals incorrectly there is no protection for the arduino board and will destroy it!

The freetronics eleven board should definitely work with the brauduino and most likely wont be the issue. Double check all welds for shorts and let us know how you go.

Cheers


----------



## matho

85 degs is the default temperature that is written to the 'scratchpad' when the DS18B20 is first powered up, sometimes you will see this when the brauduino is first turned on but will disappear when the next temperature read happens. If your getting it all the time then it looks like something is not right with the DS18B20 or there is a loose connection somewhere resetting the DS18B20 all the time. 0 degs means you have a short between - and the D terminal which to me would indicate the DS18B20 is not working correctly.

Please make sure you have only one jumper in at the 12V position as putting one in the 5v will short the 12v rail an 5v rail together. Get a multimeter and check the voltage at the + side of the heater LED it should be +5V to - when the heat is on and 0v when the heat is off. If that is OK then I would suspect the LED, either it has gone open circuit or its back to front. If the LED lights up but no voltage across the output then its probably the transistor that has gone. 

cheers steve


----------



## rodda

Thanks for the help guys, I'll check the welds for any loose or dodgy looking ones.

I had the heater output wired up to an ssr. Led was not lighting for the heater, I've pulled out the LEDs to rewire and resolder them and I'll check the voltage. I've also ordered another ds18b20 to compare. I have the display showing 0 with no probe wired up which seems like I have a short on the board. I'll do some testing and see what happens.

I've got one jumper on the 12v, that's how I fried the arduino by dropping the multimeter metal a tip across both rails  

Thanks again for the help, I'm slowly learning! 

I did make beer a few days ago manually flicking the heater on and off, rest of the controller was great just no heater! Can't wait to get it going


----------



## matho

rodda said:


> Thanks for the help guys, I'll check the welds for any loose or dodgy looking ones.
> 
> I had the heater output wired up to an ssr. Led was not lighting for the heater, I've pulled out the LEDs to rewire and resolder them and I'll check the voltage. I've also ordered another ds18b20 to compare. I have the display showing 0 with no probe wired up which seems like I have a short on the board. I'll do some testing and see what happens.
> 
> I've got one jumper on the 12v, that's how I fried the arduino by dropping the multimeter metal a tip across both rails
> 
> Thanks again for the help, I'm slowly learning!
> 
> I did make beer a few days ago manually flicking the heater on and off, rest of the controller was great just no heater! Can't wait to get it going



yeah if your getting 0 deg with the sensor removed then there is a short between pin 11 and ground. There is a ground plane surrounding all tracks so a little too much solder and heat could cause a short, check that there is a gap around the solder pads. The boards have a solder mask so if there is just the right amount of solder and not too hot an iron then there should be no shorts, if you have too much solder and it gets too hot then it will melt the solder mask and you will get shorts. It does seem strange that the first arduino board read the temp but the second one won't.

cheers steve


----------



## real_beer

matho said:


> Ok if your buying parts from Jaycar I would go with the BC547 as it has the right pin out for the board and they only sell one type. I originally designed the board for BC547's but I went with 2N2222a as they have a higher current rating (500mA compared to 100mA) but the BC547 will easily handle the 34mA that the relay will draw.
> 
> cheers steve


Hi steve,

I know you have much more important problems at the moment & understand if your too busy or don't want to reply. 
I'm not in a hurry as the rest of the Braumiser build isn't finished yet. Anyway, my problem is that I have a nice looking box all wired up & ready to go but it doesn't work :lol: 
When I power up my controller the relay clicks & displays as in the photo.



When I tested it earlier in the build the display would show two lines (never any characters), the heat light would come on & the beeper would stay on, also none of the buttons did anything. I've been over the boards numerous times over the last month looking for faults but am beginning to think I must have originally zapped the chip on the Brauduino with static. Do you think this could be a possibility & if so could the existing chip be reprogrammed, or would it be kaput? I'm waiting for a cable to arrive so I can program it through a USB connector. 
I bought the BC547's to replace the 2N2222a's in the kit so I don't think this could have anything to do with it. Any input would be much appreciated.

Best wishes to you & your family & I hope your daughter is back home with you all soon with a smile on her little face.


----------



## Superoo

Hey Real Beer. 

I would just see how you go when you try to reprogram it. 
Hope it works out mate. 

Hey Matho 
Hope your little one is getting better.


----------



## real_beer

Superoo said:


> Hey Real Beer.
> 
> I would just see how you go when you try to reprogram it.


I took my time putting it together, fluxed all the joints & used a variable power soldering iron, but then forgot to earth myself before handling the chip. It might not be the problem but given the different displays, beeps & light shows it seems to be the most probable cause. I think I'll just buy another chip anyway and start fresh when the cable arrives, its on a slow boat from China at the moment.

Your fascia sticker also looks heaps better than it shows up in the photo, I'm very happy with it.

cheers


----------



## matho

real_beer said:


> I took my time putting it together, fluxed all the joints & used a variable power soldering iron, but then forgot to earth myself before handling the chip. It might not be the problem but given the different displays, beeps & light shows it seems to be the most probable cause. I think I'll just buy another chip anyway and start fresh when the cable arrives, its on a slow boat from China at the moment.
> 
> Your fascia sticker also looks heaps better than it shows up in the photo, I'm very happy with it.
> 
> cheers



hey real_beer, the chips are fairly rugged and handling them with out earthing yourself shouldn't fry them. To me it sounds like the tranistors are not right but I can't tell without actually having the unit. I would say the screen needs the contast adjusted ( the trimpot) but I would expect both the lines to be dark not just one. I don't have much time at the moment and I know your a long way away but if you get stuck post it back to me and I'll fix it for you.

cheers


----------



## sean_0

So if you have managed to get some solder connecting the transistor legs to ground, will cleaning up the joint and resoldering fix it? Or have I stuffed it by burning through to the ground plate? My issue is with the 12V relay, which is putting out 0V when turned on, and a trickle when turned off, so I suspect I've grounded something I shouldn't have, like the transistor or maybe the relay itself. Meant to clean out the joints and redo, but didn't get around to it yet.

I've still been getting a lot of use from the brauduino by directly connecting the 12V in to the pump connection and using the brauduino in manual mode, plugging the pump in and out as needed. Not pretty but it works!


----------



## PeteQ

Sean,

The relay is only a switch, there is no output. Matho has put a lot of work into the manuals and he's included a schematic diagram at the back of the controller build pdf, if you follow that diagram i think all your problems will be solved!

Make sure you post photos of your build, it's interesting to see what little touches everyone has included on their braumiser

Cheers


----------



## sean_0

PeteQ said:


> The relay is only a switch, there is no output. Matho has put a lot of work into the manuals and he's included a schematic diagram at the back of the controller build pdf, if you follow that diagram i think all your problems will be solved!



Hi, what I meant is that the 12V output terminal on the board for the pump puts out 0V when the pump LED is on, and a small voltage (can't remember exactly) when it's off, so something is getting grounded I think.


----------



## PeteQ

sean_0 said:


> Hi, what I meant is that the 12V output terminal on the board for the pump puts out 0V when the pump LED is on, and a small voltage (can't remember exactly) when it's off, so something is getting grounded I think.



Thats exactly what I would expect, no 12V output. I'll do my best to explain but here goes 

the wiring should be like this -
12V+ --------- Relay (pump terminals) ------- pump ------- 12V- 
so from 12V+ into one of the pump terminals, out of the other pump terminal to the pump then obviously pump negative to negative.

From what you've said i would assume you have the pump connected directly to the pump terminals? + to 1 and - to the other?

I hope this makes sense?


----------



## sean_0

PeteQ said:


> Thats exactly what I would expect, no 12V output. I'll do my best to explain but here goes
> 
> the wiring should be like this -
> 12V+ --------- Relay (pump terminals) ------- pump ------- 12V-
> so from 12V+ into one of the pump terminals, out of the other pump terminal to the pump then obviously pump negative to negative.
> 
> From what you've said i would assume you have the pump connected directly to the pump terminals? + to 1 and - to the other?
> 
> I hope this makes sense?




Ok, I'm an idiot! Just looked at the 'brauduino controller build1.pdf" file and I see exactly what you are saying. Just wasn't thinking straight. Essentially the relay is just an on/off switch on the positive wire from the 12V supply to the pump positive terminal. That means that I don't need to change anything on the board, just rejig the external wiring. 

Thanks for the help Pete :icon_cheers: 

Sean


----------



## jonw

real_beer said:


> View attachment 58106



That's a sweet fascia panel - how did you make that?


----------



## Hammo7

Hey Matho.
Been reading through this thread and absolutely love the dedication and support you have given to the community with this project.

I was devastated to hear about your child, and can only wish you, your little one and your family all the best. There is nothing worse than having one of your kids in ICU.


----------



## Malted

jonw said:


> That's a sweet fascia panel - how did you make that?




He bought it. A member of this forum makes them. See *Superoo*'s thread here: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=67944


----------



## real_beer

matho said:


> hey real_beer, the chips are fairly rugged and handling them with out earthing yourself shouldn't fry them. To me it sounds like the tranistors are not right but I can't tell without actually having the unit. I would say the screen needs the contast adjusted ( the trimpot) but I would expect both the lines to be dark not just one. I don't have much time at the moment and I know your a long way away but if you get stuck post it back to me and I'll fix it for you.
> 
> cheers


Thanks for the offer Steve but you've got much more important priorities on your plate at the moment. When I originally powered it up it both lines did display but it hasn't done it since, the trimpot lowers & raises the brightness but that's all. The solder joints all looked fine but I went over a few just in case, but after my Bonjuino board started looking a little untidy from the reheating & didn't change anything I stopped trying that as a fix. I was hoping it might have been the chip so I might just bite the bullet & build new boards again after xmas. I've added some pics in case I've made any glaringly obvious cock ups that everyone else can see but I keep missing. Also I must say how impressed I am with how you worked the real estate of the control box out, great work.
cheers

The Bonjuino pics look funny because they where taken with a magnifying glass in front of the camera.


----------



## real_beer

jonw said:


> That's a sweet fascia panel - how did you make that?


When I was picking up my keg tags from Superoo he took some pics & measurements of the contol box & said he could make a nice stick on fascia panel for it. Before I got home he'd emailed me a message saying he'd made one up & posted it already for me to try. It looks much better than the photo is able to show. Have a look at the link on Malted's post for more info about Superoo. I've got to call in & pay for mine next time I'm working down Bunbury way, so I don't know what the price is yet.

Cheers


----------



## bonj

real_beer said:


> Thanks for the offer Steve but you've got much more important priorities on your plate at the moment. When I originally powered it up it both lines did display but it hasn't done it since, the trimpot lowers & raises the brightness but that's all. The solder joints all looked fine but I went over a few just in case, but after my Bonjuino board started looking a little untidy from the reheating & didn't change anything I stopped trying that as a fix. I was hoping it might have been the chip so I might just bite the bullet & build new boards again after xmas. I've added some pics in case I've made any glaringly obvious cock ups that everyone else can see but I keep missing. Also I must say how impressed I am with how you worked the real estate of the control box out, great work.
> cheers
> 
> The Bonjuino pics look funny because they where taken with a magnifying glass in front of the camera.
> View attachment 58156
> View attachment 58157
> View attachment 58158
> 
> View attachment 58159
> View attachment 58155
> 
> View attachment 58160
> View attachment 58161


The first thing I recommend doing is getting some isopropyl alcohol on a toothbrush and cleaning up all that excess flux. Then, grab your multimeter (set for measuring resistance) and check the bonjuino for short circuit between the Vin and the 5V pins while disconnected from the brauduino. Then do it again while connected. I will do the same tomorrow when I can get down to my man cave without disturbing the kids. We can compare the values and tell whether you have a short somewhere. If you shorted the 12V to the 5V pin, then you may be in a world of hurt because it potentially has fried the microcontroller, 7805 regulator (on the bonjuino) and the LCD.


----------



## Jono_w

I have witnessed an LCD do this when powered with 12v instead of 5v.

Looks like there could be some solder shorting the io pins, very hard to see in those pics.


----------



## real_beer

Bonj said:


> The first thing I recommend doing is getting some isopropyl alcohol on a toothbrush and cleaning up all that excess flux. Then, grab your multimeter (set for measuring resistance) and check the bonjuino for short circuit between the Vin and the 5V pins while disconnected from the brauduino. Then do it again while connected. I will do the same tomorrow when I can get down to my man cave without disturbing the kids. We can compare the values and tell whether you have a short somewhere. If you shorted the 12V to the 5V pin, then you may be in a world of hurt because it potentially has fried the microcontroller, 7805 regulator (on the bonjuino) and the LCD.


Thanks Bonj,
I've just cleaned the flux away as you recommended, I'll dig out my multimeter after work tomorrow & take the measurements.
I've accepted it's probably terminal at this stage but I'm keen to find out where I stuffed up, or live and learn as they say.

Cheers


----------



## tynian

Hi Guys,

Can one of the electrical gurus tell me if the resistors here http://www.rkmit.com.au/blog/wp-content/up...1/resistors.jpg

are suitable for the controller?

They are the 120, 4.7k and 470 ohm resistors.

Also, the brauduino circuit boards have finally arrived from China, so I will be in contact with everyone who as indicated they are after one with info on how to pay etc.


Cheers
Rob


----------



## PeteQ

tynian said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Can one of the electrical gurus tell me if the resistors here http://www.rkmit.com.au/blog/wp-content/up...1/resistors.jpg
> 
> are suitable for the controller?
> 
> They are the 120, 4.7k and 470 ohm resistors.
> 
> Also, the brauduino circuit boards have finally arrived from China, so I will be in contact with everyone who as indicated they are after one with info on how to pay etc.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



They're the exact same resistors i used. They work a treat!

Cheers


----------



## bonj

tynian said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> Can one of the electrical gurus tell me if the resistors here http://www.rkmit.com.au/blog/wp-content/up...1/resistors.jpg
> 
> are suitable for the controller?
> 
> They are the 120, 4.7k and 470 ohm resistors.
> 
> Also, the brauduino circuit boards have finally arrived from China, so I will be in contact with everyone who as indicated they are after one with info on how to pay etc.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



They'll do the job, tynian


----------



## tynian

Sweet - thanks guys.

I am one happy camper. I have the SS pot on the way and all the other bits ready to go.

The only ting left to buy is the filters - Am still looking at the best way to go here, am using the 19l bigw pot for the malt pipe. I reckon perforated stainless would be the way to go but am having trouble finding somewhere local to get it.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## Superoo

@ Realbeer...

No charge for you mate, you allowed me to measure up etc etc...

cheers,
Chris


----------



## real_beer

Superoo said:


> @ Realbeer...
> 
> No charge for you mate, you allowed me to measure up etc etc...
> 
> cheers,
> Chris


Thanks Chris. You do realise of course that your the one who actually helped me out?
If your still taking orders I'll call in with some cash in my wallet early next year & order some decals for 'The Red Dragon Brewery'. Also in the meantime see if you can find a way to program the laser to fix my eyes up, I need it after my recent soldering debacle :lol:

cheers


----------



## tynian

Hi Guys,

I almost have all of the boards put together now - all looking good so far.

I have one more question though, either i am a bit daft, or i can find no way to these this connectors http://www.modtronix.com/index.php?cPath=42_94 to the board??

Any thoughts guys? I got the part numbers from a list of items matho has used in the past.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## bonj

They look a bit different to what matho sent me in my kit. I suspect they are a detachable version, and you will need CON-MICMAT6-F and CON-MICMAT6-MW (and some ribbon cable)


----------



## tynian

Hi Bonj,

They are exactly what I have, but it looks like the the F connector that goes onto the board has the pins in the wrong order for the board, if that makes sense.

My get out of jail card will be to just solder the cable to some header pins and theni nto the board


----------



## bonj

tynian said:


> Hi Bonj,
> 
> They are exactly what I have, but it looks like the the F connector that goes onto the board has the pins in the wrong order for the board, if that makes sense.
> 
> My get out of jail card will be to just solder the cable to some header pins and theni nto the board


maybe you're trying to connect it to the wrong side of the board?


----------



## tynian

I dont think I am, but just to be sure, it goes on the same side as the components, correct?


----------



## bonj

Bonj said:


> maybe you're trying to connect it to the wrong side of the board?


That's what mine did, but I reckon you put it on whatever side it fits!


----------



## matho

Try rs components 532-5231 that is what I got. I was going to use the modtroix ones but then changed my mind and went with the rs ones. I had to change the orientation of the pins on the eagle library to make them the right way I'm wondering if it has changed back for you because you don't have the same library. If you can post a picture of the boards I can check it (Saturday night is my one night off from hospital  )

Cheers steve


----------



## tynian

Hi Steve,

No camera here at the moment, but from checking the PDF's the layout is the same. I reckon I will just mount it on the other side of the board and make sure the pins and functions line up.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## matho

tynian said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I almost have all of the boards put together now - all looking good so far.
> 
> I have one more question though, either i am a bit daft, or i can find no way to these this connectors http://www.modtronix.com/index.php?cPath=42_94 to the board??
> 
> Any thoughts guys? I got the part numbers from a list of items matho has used in the past.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



Cool they will have the same pitch, you might have to remove the locating tab but I don't know cause I haven't looked at the data sheets 

Cheers Steve


----------



## tynian

It all fits in perfectly, even the locating tab, its all just on the saem side as the LCD instead of the components.

From the quick once over the pin outs are all the same, so it looks like I am good to go.

Is there a nice easy way for me to test that it is all ok before wiring it up to the other half of the box? i was thinking of finding an old 12v dc plug pack and putting it on the 12V screw terminals??

Cheers
Rob


----------



## tynian

Ok guys, think I need some help.

I have put the controller together as per the guides and have powered it on for the first time.

It powers up ok but all I get is an illuminated LCD and the buzzer staying on. Any thoughts on what is likely happening here?

Cheers
Rob


----------



## real_beer

tynian said:


> Ok guys, think I need some help.
> 
> I have put the controller together as per the guides and have powered it on for the first time.
> 
> It powers up ok but all I get is an illuminated LCD and the buzzer staying on. Any thoughts on what is likely happening here?
> 
> Cheers
> Rob


Interesting, that's what happened to me. Sorry I can't help with a solution though.
Do you get any characters on the display or just the dark squares? And did any of the the LED's light up?

Cheers


----------



## tynian

real_beer said:


> Interesting, that's what happened to me. Sorry I can't help with a solution though.
> Do you get any characters on the display or just the dark squares? And did any of the the LED's light up?
> 
> Cheers


I don't recall if the LEDs came on. There were no characters on the screen, just illumination. I did notice that the led on the bonjuino was not lit, should it be?


----------



## bonj

tynian said:


> I don't recall if the LEDs came on. There were no characters on the screen, just illumination. I did notice that the led on the bonjuino was not lit, should it be?


The LED on the bonjuino should definitely be lit. It is the power indicator light. If it has not lit, either it has no power, or you installed the LED the wrong way round. If you followed the instructions, and oriented the LED properly, then for some reason, it isn't getting any power.


----------



## real_beer

tynian said:


> I don't recall if the LEDs came on. There were no characters on the screen, just illumination. I did notice that the led on the bonjuino was not lit, should it be?


Mine did. When I first powered it on the screen lit up displaying two rows of squares, the relay clicked & the LED's came on and after a while the green one went off. The buzzer just kept going until I powered off. I went over everything again & again for weeks. my soldering looked okay but eventually I went over a few of the joints to see if that helped but it didn't. I don't advise you to do this though as you can just make things worst. I'd advise you to have someone who knows what their doing check the boards out, that's what's happening to mine but it might take a while to find out as he's very busy at the moment. I thought it might be the controller chip damaged by static but Bonj & Matho don't think this is the problem.


----------



## tynian

Ok, good news.

I thought i would give it another go and all was as before, then I tried adjusting the trim pot, you little ripper I now have both display lines. I think the buzzer is on because I haven't wired in the temp sensor and thus have a reading of 4000 degrees.

Will sort this out next.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## real_beer

tynian said:


> Ok, good news.
> 
> I thought i would give it another go and all was as before, then I tried adjusting the trim pot, you little ripper I now have both display lines. I think the buzzer is on because I haven't wired in the temp sensor and thus have a reading of 4000 degrees.
> 
> Will sort this out next.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob


Great news.


----------



## matho

Hey Tynian, with the buzzer on and the relay picked up it sounds like the transistors are around the wrong way. I'm going to have to look at the data sheets again, what type of tranistor did you use.

Cheers steve


----------



## tynian

Hi Matho,

I used this transistor http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZT2298

Thanks for checking this out for me. At this point I had not hooked up the pump, temp sensor or heater/relay - I was really just checking to see if it would power up properly etc.

I am wondering if not having these hooked up is causing the buzzer to come on the temp to show 4000+ degrees on the LCD. I can take a pic of this later if needed 

Anyway, I appreciate you having another look for me.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## PeteQ

matho said:


> OK I have just tested my unit with jaycar bought 2n2222a338 and it displays the same problem, I reversed the transistor for the buzzer and it fixed the problem.
> Pete I would chop the head off the transistor and pull one leg out at a time as it was very hard to pull the transistor out whole with out damaging the board.
> 
> The last 6 kits that got sent out had these transistors in them so if you could check and see if you have transistors labelled 2n2222a338 please install thenm backwards. I'll be sending PM's out to those I think got those transistors tonight.
> 
> the first lot of 40 kits had transistors got from a different supplier and they are to be installed the right way they are labelled p2n2222a AO8
> sorry
> 
> steve



Tynian I had this problem also, turn the transistors around sorted it out!


----------



## tynian

Awesome, Thanks Pete. I will do this tonight.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## matho

OK, 
I have bought some BC547 to try out and they work fine, because the 2N2222a can have different pinouts I would recommend using the BC547, they have a little less current handling but it will work fine.

(real_beer had me worried when he said that on his board the buzzer was sounding and pump was on and he used BC547, I thought I had miss read the datasheet)

cheers steve


----------



## tynian

matho said:


> OK,
> I have bought some BC547 to try out and they work fine, because the 2N2222a can have different pinouts I would recommend using the BC547, they have a little less current handling but it will work fine.
> 
> (real_beer had me worried when he said that on his board the buzzer was sounding and pump was on and he used BC547, I thought I had miss read the datasheet)
> 
> cheers steve


Thanks Steve.

I have changed the transistors around and it is all good.

I still have an amazing temp display of over 4000 degrees. I assume this is cause I have not wired up the temp probe yet.

I have been able to go through menus etc and even put it in manual mode and managed to get the pups led to light up. I just have to figure out how to drive this thing properly now.

I am also assuming I could not get the heater led to light up because it was thinking the temp was already way over the set point.


Cheers
Rob


----------



## matho

tynian said:


> Thanks Steve.
> 
> I have changed the transistors around and it is all good.
> 
> I still have an amazing temp display of over 4000 degrees. I assume this is cause I have not wired up the temp probe yet.
> 
> I have been able to go through menus etc and even put it in manual mode and managed to get the pups led to light up. I just have to figure out how to drive this thing properly now.
> 
> I am also assuming I could not get the heater led to light up because it was thinking the temp was already way over the set point.
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



yeah mate without the DS18b20 connected you get a reading of over 4000 degc so it looks like all is well, and yes you won't be able to get the heater to turn on with a temperature over 4000 degs 

well done, it's quite simple to get the boards made up isn't it.

cheers steve


----------



## tynian

matho said:


> yeah mate without the DS18b20 connected you get a reading of over 4000 degc so it looks like all is well, and yes you won't be able to get the heater to turn on with a temperature over 4000 degs
> 
> well done, it's quite simple to get the boards made up isn't it.
> 
> cheers steve


Yeah it is. I have loved every minute of it.

I can't wait to get the hardware and plumbing done now. I have cut the 19l pot up already for the malt pipe and am in the process of sorting the filters.

This has been so much fun - thanks Steve.

For the guys who were after boards I am hoping to get to auspost tomorrow to get an idea of postage costs so I can send final pricing an payment info through.

Apologies for the delay, but I have not been able to get there til now.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## bigbanko

tynian said:


> Yeah it is. I have loved every minute of it.
> 
> I can't wait to get the hardware and plumbing done now. I have cut the 19l pot up already for the malt pipe and am in the process of sorting the filters.
> 
> This has been so much fun - thanks Steve.
> 
> For the guys who were after boards I am hoping to get to auspost tomorrow to get an idea of postage costs so I can send final pricing an payment info through.
> 
> Apologies for the delay, but I have not been able to get there til now.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob




Hi
I have just stumbled upon this wonderfull thread. I have been considering a Braumiester but the cost a little prohibitive.

Are the PCB's and Bonjuino's or kits still available to purchase from someone, as I would be very interested.

Cheers


----------



## tynian

bigbanko said:


> Hi
> I have just stumbled upon this wonderfull thread. I have been considering a Braumiester but the cost a little prohibitive.
> 
> Are the PCB's and Bonjuino's or kits still available to purchase from someone, as I would be very interested.
> 
> Cheers


Hi,

Sorry but all the boards I have are spoken for at this point. If anyone pulls out I will let you know.

If you are really keen I can vouch for how easy it was to put it all together and send and order off for the board builds.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## bigbanko

tynian said:


> Hi,
> 
> Sorry but all the boards I have are spoken for at this point. If anyone pulls out I will let you know.
> 
> If you are really keen I can vouch for how easy it was to put it all together and send and order off for the board builds.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



Where can you have the boards made? I wouldn't mine buying 10 boards and sharing. Also is there a design file as such for the board.

Thanks.


----------



## bonj

bigbanko said:


> Where can you have the boards made? I wouldn't mine buying 10 boards and sharing. Also is there a design file as such for the board.
> 
> Thanks.


Matho has made the design files and code available. They require the eagle PCB design software and the arduino environment respectively. If you have trouble with the eagle software, I'm happy to make the gerber files for you, for submission to the seeedstudio fusion PCB service (they manufacture the boards): http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pc...vice-p-835.html

10 boards will cost you around USD$35 delivered, depending on the exchange rate. They require you to edit the eagle source files to add your order number to the silkscreen layer and export the files to the gerber format which they use. If you're serious about having them made, I'm able to add your order number for you and email you the zipfile in the format required. (Basically that will allow you to have them made without messing around with new software if you haven't used it before). Then you just email them the zipfile as instructed in the link above and around 3 weeks later, you get 10 PCBs in the post 

In addition to the brauduino board, you will need a standard form factor arduino or clone. I have previously made up some arduino clone kits (I called them bonjuinos) with the brauduino code pre-flashed but I'm not in the financial situation to do that at the moment. A standard arduino will work just fine but you'll need to flash the code yourself (dead easy).


----------



## bigbanko

Bonj said:


> Matho has made the design files and code available. They require the eagle PCB design software and the arduino environment respectively. If you have trouble with the eagle software, I'm happy to make the gerber files for you, for submission to the seeedstudio fusion PCB service (they manufacture the boards): http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pc...vice-p-835.html
> 
> 10 boards will cost you around USD$35 delivered, depending on the exchange rate. They require you to edit the eagle source files to add your order number to the silkscreen layer and export the files to the gerber format which they use. If you're serious about having them made, I'm able to add your order number for you and email you the zipfile in the format required. (Basically that will allow you to have them made without messing around with new software if you haven't used it before). Then you just email them the zipfile as instructed in the link above and around 3 weeks later, you get 10 PCBs in the post
> 
> In addition to the brauduino board, you will need a standard form factor arduino or clone. I have previously made up some arduino clone kits (I called them bonjuinos) with the brauduino code pre-flashed but I'm not in the financial situation to do that at the moment. A standard arduino will work just fine but you'll need to flash the code yourself (dead easy).



Hi Bonj

Thank you for your offer of help. I will take you up on the offer to supply me the files ready to send.
I will pm you my email address to send the files to.

I am really keen to get this project on the go. I am a sheet metal worker/Boilermaker by trade and not a lot of electronics experience, although I am pretty savy with computers.

Where would be the best place to obtain the arduino board, software, hardware etc. Also are there tutorials on flashing them.

Once again many thanks for your help.

I will make the spare boards available to other members when they arrive.


----------



## tynian

bigbanko said:


> Hi Bonj
> 
> Thank you for your offer of help. I will take you up on the offer to supply me the files ready to send.
> I will pm you my email address to send the files to.
> 
> I am really keen to get this project on the go. I am a sheet metal worker/Boilermaker by trade and not a lot of electronics experience, although I am pretty savy with computers.
> 
> Where would be the best place to obtain the arduino board, software, hardware etc. Also are there tutorials on flashing them.
> 
> Once again many thanks for your help.
> 
> I will make the spare boards available to other members when they arrive.


Bigbanko.

I have still got 1 board left after the last count. If you are still up for one I am happy for you to have it. Just let me know.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## bigbanko

tynian said:


> Bigbanko.
> 
> I have still got 1 board left after the last count. If you are still up for one I am happy for you to have it. Just let me know.
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



Thanks Rob

I placed an order for 10 boards last night so I may have a few spares now.

Cheers.

PS. Can you tell me where is the best place to obtain the LCD panel and needed components.


----------



## Davethebrewer

Hi bigbanko 
Rob is sending me a board and I too have too round up the parts, have not looked into it too much yet.Mathos put together a PDF with the build parts in it.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&id=54981
CheersDave


----------



## keifer33

Keen on a board when someone gets one free. Must get going on this stuff after putting it off.


----------



## luke_j

Bonj said:


> In addition to the brauduino board, you will need a standard form factor arduino or clone. I have previously made up some arduino clone kits (I called them bonjuinos) with the brauduino code pre-flashed but I'm not in the financial situation to do that at the moment. A standard arduino will work just fine but you'll need to flash the code yourself (dead easy).



Bonj,

Pardon my ignorance, but is this the sort of thing I should get? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-UNO-R3-...1#ht_992wt_1271


----------



## bonj

luke_j said:


> Bonj,
> 
> Pardon my ignorance, but is this the sort of thing I should get? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-UNO-R3-...1#ht_992wt_1271


Yes, that will do the job nicely. You will have to install the arduino IDE from http://www.arduino.cc/ and use it to upload matho's code (https://github.com/mathoaus/braumiser-controller/blob/master/brauduino2.ino).


----------



## luke_j

Awesome, cheers.


----------



## tynian

Hi Guys,

I have one more trouble shooting question i need to ask.

Everything seems to be working perfectly except for the heater.

I have put it into manual mode and can see the pump led come on when i press the pump button and measuring across the pinouts shows 12v coming through, perfect.

The heater show no LED and some strange readings through the power plug. No matter which way I measure (whether the button for H has been pressed or not) measuring the output in the plug shows 244V but I cant seem to power anything off it.

What should I be looking for, what should I be testing?

Cheers
Rob


----------



## matho

Ok with a ssr you are always going to get voltage across the output so it is not an indication, the led lighting up on the ssr or 12v across the heater output is a good indication. Secondly it takes a little while for the pid to ramp up the first time the heater button is pressed, it can be a bit confusing that when you push the button and the led does not light up straight away. Before you try and fault find, set the temp to about 60 and push the heat button once and wait for about 30 sec to 1 min and see if the led comes on. If it doesn't work then I would look at the heater LED first

Cheers steve


----------



## tynian

matho said:


> Ok with a ssr you are always going to get voltage across the output so it is not an indication, the led lighting up on the ssr or 12v across the heater output is a good indication. Secondly it takes a little while for the pid to ramp up the first time the heater button is pressed, it can be a bit confusing that when you push the button and the led does not light up straight away. Before you try and fault find, set the temp to about 60 and push the heat button once and wait for about 30 sec to 1 min and see if the led comes on. If it doesn't work then I would look at the heater LED first
> 
> Cheers steve


Thanks Steve.

That makes sense now.

Will go and check it out.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## tynian

Hey Steve,

Well I tried giving it some time, but still no good. No LED. Not really sure which bits I should measure to find the fault. I checked voltage on the LED at the board and it reads only around 1volt no matter what I do with the heater button. 

Any ideas? Not quite sure what to test first to figure this out. should I measure the voltage across the heater screw in terminals?

Cheers
Rob


----------



## bigbanko

Does anyone know the dimension of the malt pipe and vessel of the original 20 liter braumiester. e.g.. diameter and height.


----------



## matho

tynian said:


> Hey Steve,
> 
> Well I tried giving it some time, but still no good. No LED. Not really sure which bits I should measure to find the fault. I checked voltage on the LED at the board and it reads only around 1volt no matter what I do with the heater button.
> 
> Any ideas? Not quite sure what to test first to figure this out. should I measure the voltage across the heater screw in terminals?
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



Ok, so how the circuit works is when the program wants the heater on pin 9 goes high (5V) , this then runs about 6mA through the LED, resistor and then to the base of the transistor (middle pin), this then allows the transistor to start conducting (turn on) and then 12v should appear across the heater outputs.

first thing to check would be if the heater button is working, if you can enter auto mode by pressing it for one second then it works OK.
Next would be that you are getting 5V at pin 9 when the heater is meant to be on. Next would be if you have the 5V but no LED then check the resistance between the - leg of the LED and the base pin (middle pin) of the transistor, it should be 470 ohms. if you are getting that then it could be the LED or the transistor. 
the voltage across a forward conducting LED should be somewhere between 1.2v to 1.8v and the voltage across the base and the emitter (the middle pin and ground) should be 0.6V when the transistor is turned on. The voltage across the collector and the emitter ( the two pins on either side) should be low when the transistor is on (somewhere around 0.3V to 1.0v) and should be the full 12v when off.
don't try and fault find with the 240v on get a low voltage supply and just measure the voltages on the board.

cheers steve


----------



## Davethebrewer

bigbanko said:


> Does anyone know the dimension of the malt pipe and vessel of the original 20 liter braumiester. e.g.. diameter and height.



Hey Bigbanko 
Been trying to gather this info myself, as I understand it the main vessel overall is:
660mm tall x 406mm dia, this includes the bottom feet.
The mash pipe is 365mm tall x 270mm dia.
The indentation for the false bottom on the 50l malt pipe is 90mm up from the bottom, not sureIf the 20l is the same..
Hopefully someone can ratify these measurements, don't want to give you false info.
CheersDave


----------



## MastersBrewery

I did a braumeister search a while ago, and Mark from MHB gave full specification of both in a couple of his posts, have a search and trawl through; the info has been posted before.


----------



## Liquidarts

Hi all,

I'm new to the home brewing but not controller applications. After meeting with a client at home regarding his LED Lighting system we cracked open one of his home brewed Pumpkin Ales. I was very impressed. I thought everything to brew would be to hard to get a hang of. But after reading this thread and another by Steve I figured i'd start next year and give it a try. But any ways...on the subject of Steve's Shield. How would an all-in-one unit sound that comes pre-programmed with the firmware? Using an FTDI cable to upload new sketches. I've worked mostly with aquarium and hydroponics clients but figured what the heck if on of my controllers can be modified to work with Steve's coding then why not. For those of you familiar with the Typhon LED controller i've taken DWMZ's design a bit further and updated it to include 2 inputs for temp sensors and an output for I2C communications via 3 USB-Mini connectors. Have attached the updated typhon pic. But for those of you still looking how's it sound? It'd be a 50mmx100mm footprint, 4-buttons, and 16x2 LCD with the outputs/inputs from Steve's Shield.


----------



## Liquidarts

So I managed to throw something together real quick in the 2.0 Version....have a look.


----------



## bigbanko

Liquidarts said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm new to the home brewing but not controller applications. After meeting with a client at home regarding his LED Lighting system we cracked open one of his home brewed Pumpkin Ales. I was very impressed. I thought everything to brew would be to hard to get a hang of. But after reading this thread and another by Steve I figured i'd start next year and give it a try. But any ways...on the subject of Steve's Shield. How would an all-in-one unit sound that comes pre-programmed with the firmware? Using an FTDI cable to upload new sketches. I've worked mostly with aquarium and hydroponics clients but figured what the heck if on of my controllers can be modified to work with Steve's coding then why not. For those of you familiar with the Typhon LED controller i've taken DWMZ's design a bit further and updated it to include 2 inputs for temp sensors and an output for I2C communications via 3 USB-Mini connectors. Have attached the updated typhon pic. But for those of you still looking how's it sound? It'd be a 50mmx100mm footprint, 4-buttons, and 16x2 LCD with the outputs/inputs from Steve's Shield.




Always good to have more knowledge on the forum and when heads are joined great things can happen.

Welcome to the forum


----------



## bonj

Liquidarts said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I'm new to the home brewing but not controller applications. After meeting with a client at home regarding his LED Lighting system we cracked open one of his home brewed Pumpkin Ales. I was very impressed. I thought everything to brew would be to hard to get a hang of. But after reading this thread and another by Steve I figured i'd start next year and give it a try. But any ways...on the subject of Steve's Shield. How would an all-in-one unit sound that comes pre-programmed with the firmware? Using an FTDI cable to upload new sketches. I've worked mostly with aquarium and hydroponics clients but figured what the heck if on of my controllers can be modified to work with Steve's coding then why not. For those of you familiar with the Typhon LED controller i've taken DWMZ's design a bit further and updated it to include 2 inputs for temp sensors and an output for I2C communications via 3 USB-Mini connectors. Have attached the updated typhon pic. But for those of you still looking how's it sound? It'd be a 50mmx100mm footprint, 4-buttons, and 16x2 LCD with the outputs/inputs from Steve's Shield.



I can see your all-in-one board being popular, especially if it's pre-assembled, as there is a gap in the existing market for an "easier" solution. If your board is arduino compatible, I'd like to see any of your changes filtering back to the main code base so we can get a great active development community going! This is all about sharing, and I really want that to continue. Not trying to rubbish your idea, or rain on your parade or anything (to the contrary, I think there is room in the market), just thought I'd explain our rationale for going with a shield design:

The shield design is a standardised form factor that many hobbyists are familiar with. It makes use of a wide range of possible arduino compatible boards (making programming the microcontrollers easier for those new to them, and removing the necessity for programming blank chips, which is a bit of a barrier to entry even to those that are experienced kit assemblers). Arduino was specifically chosen because of the ease of use and easy access to both the programming environment and the libraries. Matho's original braumiser board was pic based, but we wanted to encourage the active development and involvement of the community. The existing shield design allows anyone to have a batch of shields printed and an of the shelf arduino attached. We wanted a community to pop up and start making boards and sharing out the cost etc. It has started happening, which is great. In addition to matho's large initial batch, 2 more batches of 10 boards have since been made by others!


----------



## matho

Liquidarts said:


> So I managed to throw something together real quick in the 2.0 Version....have a look.



From the looks of it the push buttons have pull down resistors on them, my design has pull up resistors so the code would need to be changed to reflect that.


----------



## Liquidarts

matho said:


> From the looks of it the push buttons have pull down resistors on them, my design has pull up resistors so the code would need to be changed to reflect that.



That's correct Steve. And I also changed the pinouts. Right now with this basic design there are a few free pins left. Maybe at a later date/revision i'll use an I2C chip for the LCD and the buttons to open up all the pins for other inputs/outputs. The possibilities are endless too....BT or Wifi notifications. Pressure sensor for the fermentation part....lol....can't stop thinking...


----------



## luke_j

Ok controller, here's the deal: I'm going to go to the pub and drink beer, and while I'm gone you're going to put yourself together, ok? Ok.

Good talk.


----------



## matho

tynian said:


> Hey Steve,
> 
> Well I tried giving it some time, but still no good. No LED. Not really sure which bits I should measure to find the fault. I checked voltage on the LED at the board and it reads only around 1volt no matter what I do with the heater button.
> 
> Any ideas? Not quite sure what to test first to figure this out. should I measure the voltage across the heater screw in terminals?
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



Any luck with it mate?


----------



## bonj

Liquidarts said:


> That's correct Steve. And I also changed the pinouts. Right now with this basic design there are a few free pins left. Maybe at a later date/revision i'll use an I2C chip for the LCD and the buttons to open up all the pins for other inputs/outputs. The possibilities are endless too....BT or Wifi notifications. Pressure sensor for the fermentation part....lol....can't stop thinking...


I love your enthusiasm, Liquidarts, but it seems counter-productive to me, to change the pinouts when there are already 60 existing boards in circulation, with another batch of 10 on the way and an unknown sized batch being fabbed by a user in the USA. It just sounds like an unnecessary fork of the code.


----------



## Liquidarts

Bonj said:


> I love your enthusiasm, Liquidarts, but it seems counter-productive to me, to change the pinouts when there are already 60 existing boards in circulation, with another batch of 10 on the way and an unknown sized batch being fabbed by a user in the USA. It just sounds like an unnecessary fork of the code.



Hi Bonj,

I see what your saying. I'll go back and take a look at the original pinout and see if I can change it back. I believe the reason I did so in the first place was because the pins from the chip actually crossed over one another for the LCD and Buttons with a limited amount of space for top and bottom vias. My original plan was to do a 100 pcb's as the cost would be cheaper per board than say 10 or even 50. The company I have a steady relationship with can do all 100 for under $50. I get that discount because i've had them fully populate the boards of my other designs as well as just the PCB fab.

Martin


----------



## bigbanko

bigbanko said:


> Thanks Rob
> 
> I placed an order for 10 boards last night so I may have a few spares now.
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> PS. Can you tell me where is the best place to obtain the LCD panel and needed components.




Well boards have now been posted and should be here in a few more days.

I will have 6 or 7 spares if anyone is interested let me know.

I now have most parts for the build and have just finished milling out the cutouts in the housing with my milling machine, which makes for a very neat finish.


----------



## Liquidarts

I use Mouser or Digikey for almost all my part orders......but for bulk I get everything on flea-bay from China...especially all my SMD components.


----------



## bonj

Liquidarts said:


> Hi Bonj,
> 
> I see what your saying. I'll go back and take a look at the original pinout and see if I can change it back. I believe the reason I did so in the first place was because the pins from the chip actually crossed over one another for the LCD and Buttons with a limited amount of space for top and bottom vias. My original plan was to do a 100 pcb's as the cost would be cheaper per board than say 10 or even 50. The company I have a steady relationship with can do all 100 for under $50. I get that discount because i've had them fully populate the boards of my other designs as well as just the PCB fab.
> 
> Martin


Yeah, I think an all in one would be great, and even better if you can panelise them onto a single panel and get them cheap. If you find you can't use the same pinout, how about adding some compiler preprocessor #ifdef directives to differentiate the boards but keep a single codebase?


----------



## Liquidarts

Bonj said:


> Yeah, I think an all in one would be great, and even better if you can panelise them onto a single panel and get them cheap. If you find you can't use the same pinout, how about adding some compiler preprocessor #ifdef directives to differentiate the boards but keep a single codebase?



That's actually not a bad idea...


----------



## bonj

Liquidarts said:


> I use Mouser or Digikey for almost all my part orders......but for bulk I get everything on flea-bay from China...especially all my SMD components.


I mostly user element14 (when I'm ordering enough to qualify for their free postage) and rs components... depending on where the parts are cheaper etc. Even then, some parts are cheaper to order from hobbyist parts suppliers in the USA, even with shipping.


----------



## bonj

Liquidarts said:


> That's actually not a bad idea...


Hmmm

It seems that the arduino IDE is broken with respect to the above mentioned pre-processor directives... It can be worked around by not using the IDE, but that isn't really viable for us, where it should be usable by people without a computer science degree.

I guess we can do a similar thing by commenting certain code out with clear instructions... not as user friendly as a single _*#define ALLINONE*_


----------



## Liquidarts

I knew what you meant Bonj. I have an LED lighting controller set up like that for different languages and temp switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius.

EDIT:

So I just re-routed the pins for the original was not much of an issue...save time on re-writing code. But we have D13 and D12 left open on the MCU....any ideas for added input/output? Another Relay maybe with a sensor input...


----------



## MastersBrewery

Liquidarts said:


> I knew what you meant Bonj. I have an LED lighting controller set up like that for different languages and temp switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> So I just re-routed the pins for the original was not much of an issue...save time on re-writing code. But we have D13 and D12 left open on the MCU....any ideas for added input/output? Another Relay maybe with a sensor input...




The original board was designed for single vessel use, all that would be needed for multi vessel would be to add further heat outputs and of course code, having said that you are then introducing complexity better left for some thing like brewtroller. One possibility would be a circuit for a hop dropper of some kind, and circuit for a hoist, then it truely would be set and forget!!


----------



## bigbanko

bigbanko said:


> Well boards have now been posted and should be here in a few more days.
> 
> I will have 6 or 7 spares if anyone is interested let me know.
> 
> I now have most parts for the build and have just finished milling out the cutouts in the housing with my milling machine, which makes for a very neat finish.




I have 3 boards left that have not been spoken for.


----------



## rodda

Hey guys thought I'd post a few pics of the unit in action. 

Huge thanks to Matho and to the other guys to get this going. It is simply awsome. :beerbang: 

Water Testing








Mash In





Mashing away




So easy, I kept walking over expecting to do something! The original idea was for 9L brews, but I think I'm going to go back to the 18L to fill the kegs. Got another 18L pot and Keggle sitting here so the fun begins again. Going to put a water jacket on this one for cooling, then it really will be all in one. Might keep the smaller one for one off test batches.


----------



## prestonpaul

bigbanko said:


> I have 3 boards left that have not been spoken for.


Just found this thread and I'm interested in a board if you have any left.
Cheers.
Paul.


----------



## bigbanko

prestonpaul said:


> Just found this thread and I'm interested in a board if you have any left.
> Cheers.
> Paul.




I have 3 not spoken for.

PM for details


----------



## PeteQ

Rodda that looks awesome! Well done!

I'm a little confused as to how your recirculating is done? The elbow fitting on the side of the pot I'm assuming is the outlet from the little brown pump which looks like it attaches somehow to the malt pipe? 

Also I'm assuming you cut out a false bottom to make your top filter plate?

Sorry for all the questions, plenty of ways to skin a cat just very curious how everyone is going about their build.


----------



## matho

Hey Rodda that looks awesome glad you got it going.
I think the small pot is perfect for the kitchen and if you have the controller easy to disconnect then you will be able to move it between units

cheers steve


----------



## rodda

Thanks guys,

The tube that goes back into the pot is from the pump, runs through the elbow into another bit of silicon tube then to the bottom of the malt pipe which has a slotted bit of copper pipe in it. I used a stick element thought the bottom so couldn't take the traditional approach. I just slide off the silicon tube from the elbow and lift out the malt pipe, the top filter plate is just a standard false bottom that I had already cut down a little. Screwed down to a stainless rod in the middle of the malt pipe. Works well. 

That's exactly what I was thinking Steve. Seeing the controller box can be disconnected I can just move it to whatever unit I want. Yeah the smaller one is handy in the kitchen, only in a apartment so space is limited!


----------



## Sammus

Loving your setup rodda, do you have a build log anywhere by any chance?


----------



## bigbanko

rodda said:


> Thanks guys,
> 
> The tube that goes back into the pot is from the pump, runs through the elbow into another bit of silicon tube then to the bottom of the malt pipe which has a slotted bit of copper pipe in it. I used a stick element thought the bottom so couldn't take the traditional approach. I just slide off the silicon tube from the elbow and lift out the malt pipe, the top filter plate is just a standard false bottom that I had already cut down a little. Screwed down to a stainless rod in the middle of the malt pipe. Works well.
> 
> That's exactly what I was thinking Steve. Seeing the controller box can be disconnected I can just move it to whatever unit I want. Yeah the smaller one is handy in the kitchen, only in a apartment so space is limited!



Hey Rodda

I see you are using false bottoms to hold in the grain. Are you using any mesh or is the false bottom enough.
I also have a couple of false bottoms I am considering using as they have a 2mm hole perforation.


----------



## bigbanko

What are you guys doing to insulate the terminals from the heating element protruding from the bottom of the pot.

I want to keep it separate from the controller enclosure as I plan on making this removable, but safety is a major concern to me.


----------



## rodda

Thakns Sammus no log sorry, really put it together one arvo with stuff I had. 

bigbanko, just standard old false bottom, no mesh. seems to do the job.


----------



## Sammus

Put together my controller finally. Well, I've had the PCBs done for ages, but man making the controller box takes a f'n long time, and stripping like a million wires. I wish I'd invested in some wire strippers. I got one of the kits with the backwards transistors, lucky I got the message to flip them over. No hiccups here, works like a charm from the get go  I also added a 240V/12V pump switch just in case I want to change. Currently planning to borrow the march from my big 3V setup for a 10L small batch system, and will eventually get a brown pump for it and leave the march with the main brewery.


----------



## matho

Sammus said:


> Put together my controller finally. Well, I've had the PCBs done for ages, but man making the controller box takes a f'n long time, and stripping like a million wires. I wish I'd invested in some wire strippers. I got one of the kits with the backwards transistors, lucky I got the message to flip them over. No hiccups here, works like a charm from the get go  I also added a 240V/12V pump switch just in case I want to change. Currently planning to borrow the march from my big 3V setup for a 10L small batch system, and will eventually get a brown pump for it and leave the march with the main brewery.



Glad it worked out for you Sammus, the switch sounds interesting can you post pics when you have time.

cheers steve


----------



## Sammus

matho said:


> Glad it worked out for you Sammus, the switch sounds interesting can you post pics when you have time.
> 
> cheers steve



No worries, I'll post a couple photos later today. I used one of these DPDT switches. The common terminals are hooked up to the pump relay terminals on the controller, and the switch chooses between a 240VAC live wire connected to the march pump power output, or a positive 12VDC line connected to a 2-pin 12V output.


----------



## markymoo

wow, wouldn't want to accidentally press it when your 12v pump was connected.

sounds a bit dangerous for my liking.


----------



## Sammus

markymoo said:


> wow, wouldn't want to accidentally press it when your 12v pump was connected.
> 
> sounds a bit dangerous for my liking.



All that would happen is that the 12V pump would stop because it had no power. And there would 240VAC supplied to a 240V IEC socket (that a march pump, for example, might be plugged into). My switch doesn't force 240V across the 12V socket pins, and hence the arduino board, shield and back through the transformer...since that would completely fry everything in the box, regardless of what was connected.


----------



## markymoo

good point 

thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Sammus

Here's a couple of pics. I just drew the wiring in paint from memory, pretty sure thatll do it, viewer discretion advised etc etc


----------



## Sammus

Here's a pic of it all wired up.

No brewery yet, but I figure is the controller thread so controller pics are ok


----------



## wotafm

just a quick question for you all.



how many are using 240v pumps and if so have you had to add an Induction Suppression Capacitor across the pump terminals to stop the display going nuts when your pump stop.


----------



## Sammus

Haven't actually hooked mine up yet, will sus it out soon and let you know


----------



## matho

wotafm said:


> just a quick question for you all.
> 
> 
> 
> how many are using 240v pumps and if so have you had to add an Induction Suppression Capacitor across the pump terminals to stop the display going nuts when your pump stop.



I was a bit concerned about that but on my PIC based controller I didn't encouter it. Is it just the screen or is the arduino stopping as well. 

something like THIS should work but it is bulky, you can connect it across the load if need be.
When I get the time I'll connect my march pump up and see if I get the same result.

cheers steve


----------



## PeteQ

wotafm said:


> just a quick question for you all.
> 
> 
> 
> how many are using 240v pumps and if so have you had to add an Induction Suppression Capacitor across the pump terminals to stop the display going nuts when your pump stop.



I definitely had this problem but tried to go for the simple route before I looked into suppression capacitors. 
I wrapped the 240V twin going into the pump relay with aluminium foil and covered that in electrical tape so there was nothing exposed. I took an earth and soldered it onto the al foil closest to the 240V components then more electrical tape to secure it. It took all of about a minute and I haven't had a problem since.

Cheers


----------



## adryargument

wotafm said:


> just a quick question for you all.
> 
> how many are using 240v pumps and if so have you had to add an Induction Suppression Capacitor across the pump terminals to stop the display going nuts when your pump stop.



March 809 HS on my controller... No issues what so ever...??

I am using a slightly modified control box with 4 extra LED's and manual on/off switches for the pump / element.

(3 vessel system)


----------



## wotafm

Steve

it was a bit of a mix most of the time the display just displayed rubbish but once or twice the controller stopped.

i have put one of these here

i had it in my box of bits and it seams to be ok i will be trying to do a brew on the weekend so time will tell


dave


----------



## Davethebrewer

I'm planning to mount a small plug in type relay in the base, 12vdc coil with 240vac 10a contacts, this keeps the 240v away from the pcb and will be easy to replace should it ever crap out due to motor starts or shorts.


----------



## Sammus

Davethebrewer said:


> I'm planning to mount a small plug in type relay in the base, 12vdc coil with 240vac 10a contacts, this keeps the 240v away from the pcb and will be easy to replace should it ever crap out due to motor starts or shorts.



How does one of these work? I thought the pump terminals on the PCB were just basically a switch, so no power to drive a relay?


----------



## MastersBrewery

Sammus said:


> How does one of these work? I thought the pump terminals on the PCB were just basically a switch, so no power to drive a relay?




Correct, pump terminals are basically just a switch, the controler uses a 12v supply, so those with a 12v pump can use that for power, otherwise the 'switch' can handle 240 but the seems to be an issue for some. Matho has some great diagrams in the PDF dowload that would give you a better idea. However what some are finding is the current from a 240 volt pumps is creating interferance with the board so sheilding the 240 maybe required.

my 2c correct me if I'm wrong lads


----------



## Sammus

MastersBrewery said:


> Correct, pump terminals are basically just a switch, the controler uses a 12v supply, so those with a 12v pump can use that for power, otherwise the 'switch' can handle 240 but the seems to be an issue for some. Matho has some great diagrams in the PDF dowload that would give you a better idea. However what some are finding is the current from a 240 volt pumps is creating interferance with the board so sheilding the 240 maybe required.
> 
> my 2c correct me if I'm wrong lads



Thanks, but that wasn't what I was asking. I was asking how Davethebrewer hooking up a relay across the pump terminals to drive 240V will be possible, or if he's using some special kind of relay. If he uses the kind of relays that I know about, then to actuate the switch in the relay you need some current across the drive terminals, this energizes a coil inside the relay that physically opens or closes a switch on the other side. If you just short the drive terminals, nothing will happen.


----------



## blotto

Sammus said:


> Thanks, but that wasn't what I was asking. I was asking how Davethebrewer hooking up a relay across the pump terminals to drive 240V will be possible, or if he's using some special kind of relay. If he uses the kind of relays that I know about, then to actuate the switch in the relay you need some current across the drive terminals, this energizes a coil inside the relay that physically opens or closes a switch on the other side. If you just short the drive terminals, nothing will happen.


Yeah but you can use the 240v pump terminals to switch the supply to a relay and the relay switches the supply to the pump.


----------



## Sammus

Wort said:


> Yeah but you can use the 240v pump terminals to switch the supply to a relay and the relay switches the supply to the pump.



doh, of course. Thanks for clearing it up


----------



## Davethebrewer

Wort said:


> Yeah but you can use the 240v pump terminals to switch the supply to a relay and the relay switches the supply to the pump.




Yeah that's what I had in mind, doubling up the relays but has benefits I think, going to gland my cables into the enclosure so I can use a 3kw element, so should have room to mount plug in relay.


----------



## Sammus

Davethebrewer said:


> Yeah that's what I had in mind, doubling up the relays but has benefits I think, going to gland my cables into the enclosure so I can use a 3kw element, so should have room to mount plug in relay.



Hmm, I wonder if I can fit one in my box somewhere? I could just chuck one of those suppressor caps across the pump terminals I guess, I do like the idea of isolating the pump from the controller board though.

Will putting in a second relay really solve it? isn't the pump already behind a relay?

(sorry if im inadvertently using jargon incorrectly, im not an electronics guy )


----------



## MastersBrewery

Sammus said:


> Hmm, I wonder if I can fit one in my box somewhere? I could just chuck one of those suppressor caps across the pump terminals I guess, I do like the idea of isolating the pump from the controller board though.
> 
> Will putting in a second relay really solve it? isn't the pump already behind a relay?
> 
> (sorry if im inadvertently using jargon incorrectly, im not an electronics guy  )



essetially what your trying to achieve is to increase the space between the 240v and the control board to reduce problems with Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI), so running say the 12v supply through the onboard relay to switch another relay that is switching your 240v pump will work will work so long as you as much as posible locate the 240v away from the control board. Thats the basics one of the electronics wizards here would have a better idea of how close is too close, and shielding the 240v would help this greatly as metioned previously.


----------



## Sammus

Yep, confirmed my display scrambles occasionally when I start the pump. Probably 1 in 5. I think I'll try the foil shielding thing, then get one of those caps that matho linked if that fails.


----------



## Sammus

Sammus said:


> Yep, confirmed my display scrambles occasionally when I start the pump. Probably 1 in 5. I think I'll try the foil shielding thing, then get one of those caps that matho linked if that fails.



I double shielded and earthed the shields on all the 240V lines with foil - heatshrink - foil - heatshrink to no avail! D:


Works fine with the switch on 12V though, and on 240 I don't even need the pump hooked up and it does it. Flick the pump on and off a few times and the display scrambles... Any ideas? Will one of those capacitors fix it? Is something like these just as suitable?


----------



## Sammus

Or is there something in jaycar that's suitable I can get today? 

These and and these look similar I guess, not sure if either of them are suitable.


----------



## matho

The arduino seems very susceptible to noise, the noise is produced by the switch when switching an inductive load like a march pump. sheilding of the wire would not produce much of an effect. The way to reduce noise is to suppress the arc across the switch with a rc suppression network, also to reduce the susceptiblity of the arduino to noise we could look into decoupling the power supply more by adding more capacitors but maybe just concerntrate on suppressing the noise first. Adding another relay to the pump circuit would not reduce the emi produced but it would just remove it further from the board which could help but arc suppression is probably the best way to do it as it also increases contact life. When I get a chance I'll look into it more

Cheers Steve


----------



## Davethebrewer

Just finished the top half of the controller and hooked it up, it lives!!  <div>
Thanks again Steve for all your work.
LED holders will be insulated on inside of lid.




<div>


----------



## Davethebrewer




----------



## Davethebrewer

I'll have another go.....


----------



## breakbeer

I like those LED holders, where'd ya get 'em?


----------



## Davethebrewer

Found them at work mate, but sure I've seen similar at jaycar, make sure you insulate or earth on the inside though.


----------



## Davethebrewer

Here is some info on arc suppression as Steve was talking about,
Reference from this site http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/io/io_5.html


----------



## blotto

Davethebrewer said:


> I'll have another go.....


Looking great Dave! Good job


----------



## Sammus

Davethebrewer said:


> Here is some info on arc suppression as Steve was talking about,
> Reference from this site http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/io/io_5.html



Yeah I've been doing a bit of reading too  in here http://www.electrocube.com/products/rcnetw...rc_networks.asp it suggests that you should put the rc network across the switch in a DC circuit, and across the load in an AC circuit... but then other places (like your link) suggest that across the switch is fine in an AC circuit


----------



## Sammus

matho said:


> The arduino seems very susceptible to noise, the noise is produced by the switch when switching an inductive load like a march pump. sheilding of the wire would not produce much of an effect.



Interesting you say this, because I get scrambled display even with no load. That is, if I have the 12V circuit selected, everything is fine. If I have the 240V circuit selected, I have the problem when I switch the pump on and off, regardless of whether the pump is plugged into the output or not. So I thought shielding would help, but it didnt.


----------



## Davethebrewer

Sammus said:


> Interesting you say this, because I get scrambled display even with no load. That is, if I have the 12V circuit selected, everything is fine. If I have the 240V circuit selected, I have the problem when I switch the pump on and off, regardless of whether the pump is plugged into the output or not. So I thought shielding would help, but it didnt.




Sammus, when you say you have the 12v circuit selected, do you mean you are turning on the Heater?And when you have 240v selected do you mean you are turning on the pump?


----------



## wotafm

hi all,

just a update the suppressor i fitted to my controller seams to have fixed the scrambled display  

however while doing my brew today at the end of the malting stage display shows "remove malt"
so all good i removed the malt pipe and pressed "OK" then the unit went to "pump rest" and the pump was running this did not stop i quit the run and restarted and it went to the "pump rest" with the pump running again.

so i turned off the unit and turned it back on and resumed the run and it went to the boil stage.

this is the timing i use for this brew can some one run the same time and see if it happens to there unit

stage 1 65 deg 5 min

stage 2 66 deg 60 min

stage 3 78 deg 10 min

boil 90min

hops @ 60min 20min 10min



thanks Dave


----------



## matho

wotafm said:


> hi all,
> 
> just a update the suppressor i fitted to my controller seams to have fixed the scrambled display
> 
> however while doing my brew today at the end of the malting stage display shows "remove malt"
> so all good i removed the malt pipe and pressed "OK" then the unit went to "pump rest" and the pump was running this did not stop i quit the run and restarted and it went to the "pump rest" with the pump running again.
> 
> so i turned off the unit and turned it back on and resumed the run and it went to the boil stage.
> 
> this is the timing i use for this brew can some one run the same time and see if it happens to there unit
> 
> stage 1 65 deg 5 min
> 
> stage 2 66 deg 60 min
> 
> stage 3 78 deg 10 min
> 
> boil 90min
> 
> hops @ 60min 20min 10min
> 
> 
> 
> thanks Dave



Sounds like a glitch in the code I'll have a look at it tonight, glad the suppression seems to work 

Cheers Steve


----------



## Sammus

Davethebrewer said:


> Sammus, when you say you have the 12v circuit selected, do you mean you are turning on the Heater?And when you have 240v selected do you mean you are turning on the pump?



Sorry to be confusing, I meant using a 12V pump vs 240V pump. The point was that even without the pump, when it's wired for 240V pump output it still goes crazy. I added a simple rc network across the switch this morning and it appears to have fixed it. Haven't tested it thoroughly though. All the different articles online telling me how to figure out the right value of R and C for the circuit seemed to give wildy different answers, so I just took the values from the suppressor that matho linked earlier, 100nf and 100 Ohm. Cost about $1.50 from jaycar. It's a little bulky, I put it on tails and soldered it to the pump screw terminals where they stick through the pcb.


----------



## Davethebrewer

Sammus said:


> Sorry to be confusing, I meant using a 12V pump vs 240V pump. The point was that even without the pump, when it's wired for 240V pump output it still goes crazy. I added a simple rc network across the switch this morning and it appears to have fixed it. Haven't tested it thoroughly though. All the different articles online telling me how to figure out the right value of R and C for the circuit seemed to give wildy different answers, so I just took the values from the suppressor that matho linked earlier, 100nf and 100 Ohm. Cost about $1.50 from jaycar. It's a little bulky, I put it on tails and soldered it to the pump screw terminals where they stick through the pcb.




No worries, as long it's rated for 240vac.


----------



## matho

wotafm said:


> hi all,
> 
> just a update the suppressor i fitted to my controller seams to have fixed the scrambled display
> 
> however while doing my brew today at the end of the malting stage display shows "remove malt"
> so all good i removed the malt pipe and pressed "OK" then the unit went to "pump rest" and the pump was running this did not stop i quit the run and restarted and it went to the "pump rest" with the pump running again.
> 
> so i turned off the unit and turned it back on and resumed the run and it went to the boil stage.
> 
> this is the timing i use for this brew can some one run the same time and see if it happens to there unit
> 
> stage 1 65 deg 5 min
> 
> stage 2 66 deg 60 min
> 
> stage 3 78 deg 10 min
> 
> boil 90min
> 
> hops @ 60min 20min 10min
> 
> 
> 
> thanks Dave



I had a quick look at the code and it looks like if the last stage finishes on a pump rest then the pump rest flag doesn't get reset and it will display 'pump rest' all the time so I'll have to change the code a bit to reset the pump rest flag in the boil stage. It should continue to do its thing but you won't be able to see anything but 'pump rest' so it should be changed. I'll work on it later tonight. Cheers wotafm for finding this, I'm glad people are starting to use the brauduino's and finding gliches like these.

cheers steve


----------



## Sammus

Davethebrewer said:


> No worries, as long it's rated for 240vac.



certainly is  gave it a more thorough testing today, works like a charm! Used http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...;SUBCATID=967#1 and http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...;SUBCATID=968#1


----------



## matho

re design of the board to include rc suppression circuit and to move the relay further away from the LCD traces




maybe?

cheers steve


----------



## bigbanko

bigbanko said:


> I have 3 boards left that have not been spoken for.




All spare boards have now gone to new owners.


----------



## matho

changed the code so that when the boil is entered the pump rest flag is set to false

CODE

cheers steve


----------



## Sammus

Found this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320995231906 for flashing arduino. Seems to be the same as the littlebird ones linked earlier but a heap cheaper. Unlike the other cheap ebay one linked, this one has a socket instead of pins, so can interface with our bonjuinos more easily


----------



## bonj

Sammus said:


> Found this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320995231906 for flashing arduino. Seems to be the same as the littlebird ones linked earlier but a heap cheaper. Unlike the other cheap ebay one linked, this one has a socket instead of pins, so can interface with our bonjuinos more easily


That is exactly what you need. Nice find and nice price!


----------



## Sammus

Are there other types of temperature sensors that could be read by mathos shield (with appropriate code modifications of course) that have a higher max temperature? I tried searching but wasn't very lucky, then again I have no idea what to look for (just searched for digital temperature sensor)

I think this could be set up as a coffee roaster controller as well, but would need to read temperatures accurately in the 150-250 range


----------



## bigbanko

bigbanko said:


> What are you guys doing to insulate the terminals from the heating element protruding from the bottom of the pot.
> 
> I want to keep it separate from the controller enclosure as I plan on making this removable, but safety is a major concern to me.



Ok, I have answered my own question. I have machines some 20mm round black delrin, drilled a hole down the center and tapped one end 3/8 BSP approx 20mm deep.
I then just thread the wire through the centre connect it to the element and screw the new delrin insulator over the remaining thread. I will also put a short len of heatshrink over the end to stop anything going up inside.

This way the element terminals are safely out of reach.


----------



## matho

Sammus said:


> Are there other types of temperature sensors that could be read by mathos shield (with appropriate code modifications of course) that have a higher max temperature? I tried searching but wasn't very lucky, then again I have no idea what to look for (just searched for digital temperature sensor)
> 
> I think this could be set up as a coffee roaster controller as well, but would need to read temperatures accurately in the 150-250 range



it could be done but using a k type thermocoupler or a pt100 rtd would require the use of one of the a/d converters and a good bit of electronics to condition the signal before it gets to the a/d converter like THIS, the reason for using ds18b20 is how simple it is to use being ditgial.





bigbanko said:


> Ok, I have answered my own question. I have machines some 20mm round black delrin, drilled a hole down the center and tapped one end 3/8 BSP approx 20mm deep.
> I then just thread the wire through the centre connect it to the element and screw the new delrin insulator over the remaining thread. I will also put a short len of heatshrink over the end to stop anything going up inside.
> 
> This way the element terminals are safely out of reach.



looks really good, very handy having access to a lathe 

cheers steve


----------



## adryargument

matho said:


> changed the code so that when the boil is entered the pump rest flag is set to false
> 
> CODE
> 
> cheers steve



Hey Matho, any way I can easily remove / disable the pump rest? I have had a look but confused myself.


----------



## matho

adryargument said:


> Hey Matho, any way I can easily remove / disable the pump rest? I have had a look but confused myself.



void pump_rest (int stage)
{
if (stage==9){
 pumpRest = false;
if (Temp_c= 95)tempReached = true;
}
else{
pumptempError = stageTemp-Temp_c;
if (pumptempError = 10)){ // pump rest
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
pumpRest = true;
if(pumpTime>=12 || (pumptempError > 1.0))pumpTime = 0;
}
}
}
this is the change that I made to the code to fix the problem but to completly remove the pump rest would require to delete this 

void pump_rest (int stage)
{
if (stage==9){
pumpRest = false;
 if (Temp_c<94.0) digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
else digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
if (Temp_c >= 95)tempReached = true;
}
else{
pumptempError = stageTemp-Temp_c;
if (pumptempError <= 0)tempReached = true;
if ((pumpTime < 10)){ // starts pumps and heat
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
pumpRest =false;
 }
 if ((pumpTime >= 10)){ // pump rest
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
pumpRest = true;
if(pumpTime>=12 || (pumptempError > 1.0))pumpTime = 0;
}
}
}

I think that should do it you need to keep the pump rest fuction to keep the temperature reached part so that the stage timing works

cheers steve


----------



## adryargument

matho said:


> void pump_rest (int stage)
> ..........
> 
> }
> 
> I think that should do it you need to keep the pump rest fuction to keep the temperature reached part so that the stage timing works
> 
> cheers steve



Cheers, will have a play with it later.

Note that i have reused one of your later scripts and reconfigured it for my 3v brewing.
However i still get that silly hop additions being ignored every first time i run it after updating.

Seems to work flawlessly after that.


----------



## Sammus

matho said:


> it could be done but using a k type thermocoupler or a pt100 rtd would require the use of one of the a/d converters and a good bit of electronics to condition the signal before it gets to the a/d converter like THIS, the reason for using ds18b20 is how simple it is to use being ditgial.



Yeah this is what I suspected, thanks for clearing it up!


----------



## wotafm

matho said:


> changed the code so that when the boil is entered the pump rest flag is set to false
> 
> CODE
> 
> cheers steve



a big thanks for that steve i can believe you got it sorted so quick

cheers Dave


----------



## bigbanko

wotafm said:


> a big thanks for that steve i can believe you got it sorted so quick
> 
> cheers Dave



Hi All

I need some help uploading the code to my Arduino board.

I have purchased a Ardunio Uno R3 board That I am trying to upload the code to from Matho's file listed on this forum.

Each time I upload I get the following errors.

Brauduino_rev_2:28: error: 'OneWire' does not name a type
Brauduino_rev_2:102: error: 'PID' does not name a type
Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void Temperature()':
Brauduino_rev_2:196: error: 'ds' was not declared in this scope
Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void PID_HEAT()':
Brauduino_rev_2:240: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
Brauduino_rev_2:244: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void load_pid_settings()':
Brauduino_rev_2:264: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void setup()':
Brauduino_rev_2:1010: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
Brauduino_rev_2:1010: error: 'AUTOMATIC' was not declared in this scope

I have the latest version of Ardunio 1.02 and running on my Macosx Mountain Lion

I can upload test codes from the programs test files.

Do I need to have it plugged into the Brauduino board to upload the code?

Am I missing some settings that need changing in the program?

Can anyone walk me through this.

Thanks


----------



## bonj

bigbanko said:


> Hi All
> 
> I need some help uploading the code to my Arduino board.
> 
> I have purchased a Ardunio Uno R3 board That I am trying to upload the code to from Matho's file listed on this forum.
> 
> Each time I upload I get the following errors.
> 
> Brauduino_rev_2:28: error: 'OneWire' does not name a type
> Brauduino_rev_2:102: error: 'PID' does not name a type
> Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void Temperature()':
> Brauduino_rev_2:196: error: 'ds' was not declared in this scope
> Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void PID_HEAT()':
> Brauduino_rev_2:240: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> Brauduino_rev_2:244: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void load_pid_settings()':
> Brauduino_rev_2:264: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> Brauduino_rev_2.ino: In function 'void setup()':
> Brauduino_rev_2:1010: error: 'myPID' was not declared in this scope
> Brauduino_rev_2:1010: error: 'AUTOMATIC' was not declared in this scope
> 
> I have the latest version of Ardunio 1.02 and running on my Macosx Mountain Lion
> 
> I can upload test codes from the programs test files.
> 
> Do I need to have it plugged into the Brauduino board to upload the code?
> 
> Am I missing some settings that need changing in the program?
> 
> Can anyone walk me through this.
> 
> Thanks



Your errors indicate that you haven't installed the libraries required. You will need the OneWire library from here: http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html
and the PID library from here: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/PIDLibrary

You will need to install them with the instructions here: http://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/Libraries


----------



## adryargument

For some reason my element turns on for 2-5 minutes every time i use it after a small break.. As in its *always* on.
This seems to sort itself after a few minutes so i simply dont plug in the element until i have sorted my mash schedule etc etc and works fine.

Anyone else have this issue?

I have a feeling it might be my SSR or a capacitor or something causing it?


----------



## bigbanko

Bonj said:


> Your errors indicate that you haven't installed the libraries required. You will need the OneWire library from here: http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_OneWire.html
> and the PID library from here: http://playground.arduino.cc/Code/PIDLibrary
> 
> You will need to install them with the instructions here: http://www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/Libraries




Thanks Bonj

Worked first time. Now I just need to hook it up the the shield and check my soldering skills.

Cheers


----------



## bigbanko

It's alive


----------



## tynian

matho said:


> I had a quick look at the code and it looks like if the last stage finishes on a pump rest then the pump rest flag doesn't get reset and it will display 'pump rest' all the time so I'll have to change the code a bit to reset the pump rest flag in the boil stage. It should continue to do its thing but you won't be able to see anything but 'pump rest' so it should be changed. I'll work on it later tonight. Cheers wotafm for finding this, I'm glad people are starting to use the brauduino's and finding gliches like these.
> 
> cheers steve


Hi Steve,

I had my maiden voyage yesterday and this exact thing happened to me.

Will i need to upload the new code to fix this?

Otherwise, it ran perfectly - I am so happy with the end result. I will post some pics later  for now though, I have an Irish read ale bubbling away in the fermentation fridge 

Cheers
Rob


----------



## matho

tynian said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> I had my maiden voyage yesterday and this exact thing happened to me.
> 
> Will i need to upload the new code to fix this?
> 
> Otherwise, it ran perfectly - I am so happy with the end result. I will post some pics later  for now though, I have an Irish read ale bubbling away in the fermentation fridge
> 
> Cheers
> Rob



The latest code should fix that problem CODE, all the change was is to set the pumpRest boolean to false when stage 9 (boil) is entered. Awesome job Rob glad its working for you.

cheers steve


----------



## tynian

matho said:


> The latest code should fix that problem CODE, all the change was is to set the pumpRest boolean to false when stage 9 (boil) is entered. Awesome job Rob glad its working for you.
> 
> cheers steve




Thanks Steve.

I must admit that without the help of the guys like yourself on this forum I would never have attempted anything like this. It has been such fun.


Cheers
Rob


----------



## bigbanko

Tonight I have been hooking up all the 240 power to the power supply and 25A SSR and noticed a strange thing with the SSR. In place of connecting my heating element I hooked up a small wattage light bulb to check all is ok in manual and auto mode and I noticed when the ssr is off the light bulb would still blink for a fraction of a second every second or two. Then when I would switch the heat circuit on the bulb would light up as normal. With the heat circuit off and the bulb continues with the blinking.

Is this how a SSR works by sensing a load etc. I tried 2 different SSR's and they both do the same.

Is this normal for a SSR?


----------



## matho

bigbanko said:


> Tonight I have been hooking up all the 240 power to the power supply and 25A SSR and noticed a strange thing with the SSR. In place of connecting my heating element I hooked up a small wattage light bulb to check all is ok in manual and auto mode and I noticed when the ssr is off the light bulb would still blink for a fraction of a second every second or two. Then when I would switch the heat circuit on the bulb would light up as normal. With the heat circuit off and the bulb continues with the blinking.
> 
> Is this how a SSR works by sensing a load etc. I tried 2 different SSR's and they both do the same.
> 
> Is this normal for a SSR?



Was this happening all the time or only when the unit was in auto mode? 

cheers steve


----------



## adryargument

Code:







matho said:


> Was this happening all the time or only when the unit was in auto mode?
> 
> cheers steve



Same thing here,
Except my bulb is a dull glow in off, and when i turn it on its a bright glow.

Don't SSR's always have a bit of leakage? was my understanding.
i.e. In the off position they still leak like 0.01 amps which unfortunately is enough to power a bulb / led.


----------



## bigbanko

matho said:


> Was this happening all the time or only when the unit was in auto mode?
> 
> cheers steve



It does it in both manual or auto mode. When measured across the terminals it is pulsing 120v every second. When switched on in manual or auto I have 240v constant across the SSR.

There is no voltage coming from the heater terminals on the board so it appears to be SSR related. The SSR is a FOTEK SSR-25A DA which I purchased from ebay. Both relays are new and both behave the same way.


----------



## bigbanko

adryargument said:


> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same thing here,
> Except my bulb is a dull glow in off, and when i turn it on its a bright glow.
> 
> Don't SSR's always have a bit of leakage? was my understanding.
> i.e. In the off position they still leak like 0.01 amps which unfortunately is enough to power a bulb / led.



It appears that way. I don't know enough about them to be sure.


----------



## glenwal

bigbanko said:


> It does it in both manual or auto mode. When measured across the terminals it is pulsing 120v every second. When switched on in manual or auto I have 240v constant across the SSR.
> 
> There is no voltage coming from the heater terminals on the board so it appears to be SSR related. The SSR is a FOTEK SSR-25A DA which I purchased from ebay. Both relays are new and both behave the same way.



From the datasheet they have a leakage current of 3mA. You need to connect some sort of passive load (eg. an element) in parallel to the light.


----------



## Sammus

Yes to leakage. I was trying to test mine's functionality with a multimeter  It was 240V all the time, no matter what the controller was doing!


----------



## matho

as glen pointed out SSR do leak current but pulsing every 1 second doesn't sound right and if it is doing it in auto and manual but not when the unit is in the startup screen would indicate that it is a code issue. It will not damage an element to be pulsed with a little bit of current but I still don't like the idea of a code issue. I'll look into it today.

cheers steve


edit: what wattage is the light bulb?
Also in auto mode you have no control on the output of the heater, the PID could be pulsing the output but in maunal mode you can turn the heater off.


----------



## bigbanko

matho said:


> as glen pointed out SSR do leak current but pulsing every 1 second doesn't sound right and if it is doing it in auto and manual but not when the unit is in the startup screen would indicate that it is a code issue. It will not damage an element to be pulsed with a little bit of current but I still don't like the idea of a code issue. I'll look into it today.
> 
> cheers steve
> 
> 
> edit: what wattage is the light bulb?
> Also in auto mode you have no control on the output of the heater, the PID could be pulsing the output but in maunal mode you can turn the heater off.



Steve, The bulb lights up and flickers from the moment power is turned on to the unit either in startup, auto or manual. The light bulb is a small 15 watt bulb from a desk lamp. When the SSR is switched on by the PID or manual mode it works fine and supplys the full 240v. 
The board and code seem to be working fine as there is no voltage across the heating terminals when measured at the board which makes me think yes it is leakage. The reason it pulses on and off could be the fact the bulb is a very low wattage bulb and if it was a bigger wattage would have a dim glow like the others have suggested. I could try a bigger load when I get home from work.


----------



## bigbanko

Sammus said:


> Yes to leakage. I was trying to test mine's functionality with a multimeter  It was 240V all the time, no matter what the controller was doing!



Exact same here. This is what alerted me.


----------



## ForkBoy

Hi all,

I was wondering if Matho's shield would work alongside a wifi shield, or would they compete for pins? I'd be interested in extending it to be controlled via browser/ipad etc.

wifi shield is here:

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11287 

Thanks


----------



## Sammus

Bonj said:


> That is exactly what you need. Nice find and nice price!



Which board and programmer should I choose in the Arduino software for uploading to bonjuino using the programmer I linked before?


----------



## matho

ForkBoy said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I was wondering if Matho's shield would work alongside a wifi shield, or would they compete for pins? I'd be interested in extending it to be controlled via browser/ipad etc.
> 
> wifi shield is here:
> 
> https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11287
> 
> Thanks



Unfortunately not " On both boards, pin 10 is used to select the HDG104 and pin 4 for the SD card. These pins cannot be used for general I/O." the brauduino uses both these pins so it can't be used. I left pins 0 and 1 free which are the uart pins so maybe look for a wifi that talks on serial.

cheers steve


----------



## bonj

Sammus said:


> Which board and programmer should I choose in the Arduino software for uploading to bonjuino using the programmer I linked before?


You'll need to select "Arduino Duemilanove w/ ATmega328" in the board menu. I'm not sure if the "programmer" menu makes any difference to just uploading code, but I have arduinoISP selected because that's what I use to flash the bootloader onto empty chips.

Hope that helps.


----------



## matho

ForkBoy said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I was wondering if Matho's shield would work alongside a wifi shield, or would they compete for pins? I'd be interested in extending it to be controlled via browser/ipad etc.
> 
> wifi shield is here:
> 
> https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11287
> 
> Thanks



been looking and a Xbee sheild and a RV-XV Wifly module and an antenna? should be able to work 



Sammus said:


> Which board and programmer should I choose in the Arduino software for uploading to bonjuino using the programmer I linked before?



for the bonjuino you need to select " adruino Duemilanove w/ATmega328

cheers steve


----------



## ForkBoy

Thanks Matho, what pins does the shield use? 

I am new to arduino, but i see the arduino mega has a lot more pins available. Would this avoid the conflicts? Or can it be programmed around?


----------



## bonj

ForkBoy said:


> Thanks Matho, what pins does the shield use?
> 
> I am new to arduino, but i see the arduino mega has a lot more pins available. Would this avoid the conflicts? Or can it be programmed around?


scrap that... SPI pins conflict with the shield this can't be programmed around.


----------



## bonj

The Gainspan GS1011 wifi module is capable of using serial comms. You may be able to find a shield that makes use of this and use pins 0,1 (hardware serial) for wifi.

Here are a couple of possibilities... 
http://www.linksprite.com/product/showprod...g=en&id=116
http://www.dexterindustries.com/Arduino-WIFI_Shield.html


----------



## ForkBoy

Thanks for the pointers bonj


----------



## bigbanko

Matho

Today I fired my unit up just using water without the malt pipe fitted and went through a complete cycle. The cycle finished ok but I have a few questions.

Why is the default boil temperature set to 98 degrees C? - I had to manually change this to 102c to keep the water boiling. If left at 98 the heater would cut out even though the temp was reading 96 degrees C.

At no time during the boil cycle did my temperature reading go above 96 degrees C, yet the water was boiling and the timer was counting down.

I had the unit set for 3 hop additions at 45 mins, 10 mins and 3 mins and at no stage during the boil did the alarm sound or ask me to add hops. Not sure what happened here.

Other than that all went fine and I will post a couple of photo's of the finished unit soon.


----------



## matho

Hey Bigbanko,

it was set at 98 because that is the temp I found that gave me a nice rolling boil, I found that the DS18B20 was reading 1.5 degs under my spirit thermometer at boil but was the same temp up until about 80 degs (the datasheet says its accurate up to +80 degs). The hop additions alarms depend on the eeprom location to be set to 0 before the start of the boil to work properly, initally I didn't set that to 0 when I wrote the EEPROM.pde so it could be set to anything the first time you brew but at the end of the boil it will be set back to 0 so the next time you brew they should work. I have been looking at the code and have realised that if the boil is stopped and then not resumed and let go to the end then the next time hop addition alarms will not work. I am going to modify the code so that if the boil is entered and its not part of a resume then eeprom address will be written to 0 

cheers steve


----------



## matho

here is the fix for the hop additions

CODE

I haven't changed the boil temp but I can if there is a demand for it

cheers steve


----------



## bigbanko

matho said:


> Hey Bigbanko,
> 
> it was set at 98 because that is the temp I found that gave me a nice rolling boil, I found that the DS18B20 was reading 1.5 degs under my spirit thermometer at boil but was the same temp up until about 80 degs (the datasheet says its accurate up to +80 degs). The hop additions alarms depend on the eeprom location to be set to 0 before the start of the boil to work properly, initally I didn't set that to 0 when I wrote the EEPROM.pde so it could be set to anything the first time you brew but at the end of the boil it will be set back to 0 so the next time you brew they should work. I have been looking at the code and have realised that if the boil is stopped and then not resumed and let go to the end then the next time hop addition alarms will not work. I am going to modify the code so that if the boil is entered and its not part of a resume then eeprom address will be written to 0
> 
> cheers steve




Thanks Matho I will have another try.

I am also boiling 30 liters in a 50 liter pot so am not sure if this has an effect on the temperature.

What temp does the timer start counting down for the boil cycle?

Cheers
Paul


----------



## bigbanko

matho said:


> here is the fix for the hop additions
> 
> CODE
> 
> I haven't changed the boil temp but I can if there is a demand for it
> 
> cheers steve




Tried it again with short mash and boil cycles and it worked fine thanks to your code change.


Could I please ask you to show how to change the following parameters or maybe change the code and PM or email to me.
These are specific to my system and may not suit every one.

Change default boil temp to 102degrees C (when set at 98 my heat cuts out before boiling starts)

Change the pump to cut out at 90 degrees C (currently the pump cuts out just before boiling starts)

I think these will suit a 30 litre boil with 2400 watt element nicely.

Cheers
Paul


----------



## matho

bigbanko said:


> Tried it again with short mash and boil cycles and it worked fine thanks to your code change.
> 
> 
> Could I please ask you to show how to change the following parameters or maybe change the code and PM or email to me.
> These are specific to my system and may not suit every one.
> 
> Change default boil temp to 102degrees C (when set at 98 my heat cuts out before boiling starts)
> 
> Change the pump to cut out at 90 degrees C (currently the pump cuts out just before boiling starts)
> 
> I think these will suit a 30 litre boil with 2400 watt element nicely.
> 
> Cheers
> Paul



to change the pump and the timing start, it is in the pump rest function


void pump_rest (int stage)
{
if (stage==9){
pumpRest = false;
if (Temp_c<94.0) digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
else digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
 if (Temp_c >= 95)tempReached = true;
}
else{
pumptempError = stageTemp-Temp_c;
if (pumptempError <= 0)tempReached = true;
if ((pumpTime < 10)){ // starts pumps and heat
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
pumpRest =false;
}
if ((pumpTime >= 10)){ // pump rest
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
pumpRest = true;
if(pumpTime>=12 || (pumptempError > 1.0))pumpTime = 0;
}
}
}

and to change the set temperature for the boil would be in the auto mode function 


void auto_mode (void)
{
load_stage_settings();
load_pid_settings();
check_for_resume();
if(!(resume)){ // if starting a new process prompt for water
prompt_for_water();
wait_for_confirm(autoEnter);
if(!(autoEnter))return;
pump_prime();
EEPROM.write(49,0);
x = 0;
}
if (autoEnter){ // mash steps
EEPROM.write(35,1);// auto mode started
for (int i = x;i < nmbrStgs;i++){
EEPROM.write(36,lowByte(x)); // stores the stage number for the resume
x++; // used to count the stages for the resume
tempReached = false;
get_stage_settings();
start_time();
stage_loop(i);
if (!(autoEnter)) break;
if( i==0 && autoEnter){ // at the end of the mashIn step pauses to add grain
add_malt();
if (!(autoEnter))break;
}
if(i==(nmbrStgs-1)&& autoEnter){ // at the end of the last step pauses to remove the malt pipe before the boil
remove_malt();
if (!(autoEnter))break;
}
Buzzer(1);
tempHAddr +=3; // increase stage addresses
tempLAddr +=3;
timeAddr +=3;
lcd.clear();
}
}
// start of the boil
if(autoEnter){
start_time();
stageTemp= 98.0; // set the intital boil temp to 98 deg c
tempReached = false;
get_boil_settings();
stage_loop(9,120,94);

if(autoEnter){ // finishes the brewing process
display_lcd(0,0," Brewing ");
display_lcd(0,1," Finished ");
Buzzer(3);
delay(2000);
EEPROM.write(35,0); // sets auto start byte to 0 for resume
EEPROM.write(49,0); // sets hop count to 0
mainMenu=0;
autoEnter =false;
resume =false;
}


}
}

cheers steve


----------



## bigbanko

matho said:


> to change the pump and the timing start, it is in the pump rest function
> 
> 
> void pump_rest (int stage)
> {
> if (stage==9){
> pumpRest = false;
> if (Temp_c<94.0) digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
> else digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
> if (Temp_c >= 95)tempReached = true;
> }
> else{
> pumptempError = stageTemp-Temp_c;
> if (pumptempError <= 0)tempReached = true;
> if ((pumpTime < 10)){ // starts pumps and heat
> digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
> pumpRest =false;
> }
> if ((pumpTime >= 10)){ // pump rest
> digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
> digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
> pumpRest = true;
> if(pumpTime>=12 || (pumptempError > 1.0))pumpTime = 0;
> }
> }
> }
> 
> and to change the set temperature for the boil would be in the auto mode function
> 
> 
> void auto_mode (void)
> {
> load_stage_settings();
> load_pid_settings();
> check_for_resume();
> if(!(resume)){ // if starting a new process prompt for water
> prompt_for_water();
> wait_for_confirm(autoEnter);
> if(!(autoEnter))return;
> pump_prime();
> EEPROM.write(49,0);
> x = 0;
> }
> if (autoEnter){ // mash steps
> EEPROM.write(35,1);// auto mode started
> for (int i = x;i < nmbrStgs;i++){
> EEPROM.write(36,lowByte(x)); // stores the stage number for the resume
> x++; // used to count the stages for the resume
> tempReached = false;
> get_stage_settings();
> start_time();
> stage_loop(i);
> if (!(autoEnter)) break;
> if( i==0 && autoEnter){ // at the end of the mashIn step pauses to add grain
> add_malt();
> if (!(autoEnter))break;
> }
> if(i==(nmbrStgs-1)&& autoEnter){ // at the end of the last step pauses to remove the malt pipe before the boil
> remove_malt();
> if (!(autoEnter))break;
> }
> Buzzer(1);
> tempHAddr +=3; // increase stage addresses
> tempLAddr +=3;
> timeAddr +=3;
> lcd.clear();
> }
> }
> // start of the boil
> if(autoEnter){
> start_time();
> stageTemp= 98.0; // set the intital boil temp to 98 deg c
> tempReached = false;
> get_boil_settings();
> stage_loop(9,120,94);
> 
> if(autoEnter){ // finishes the brewing process
> display_lcd(0,0," Brewing ");
> display_lcd(0,1," Finished ");
> Buzzer(3);
> delay(2000);
> EEPROM.write(35,0); // sets auto start byte to 0 for resume
> EEPROM.write(49,0); // sets hop count to 0
> mainMenu=0;
> autoEnter =false;
> resume =false;
> }
> 
> 
> }
> }
> 
> cheers steve



Thanks for all your help Steve


----------



## wotafm

matho said:


> here is the fix for the hop additions
> 
> CODE
> 
> I haven't changed the boil temp but I can if there is a demand for it
> 
> cheers steve



hi steve 

what did you change in the code?

just trying to understand how it all work rather then just cut and paste

thanks dave


----------



## matho

wotafm said:


> hi steve
> 
> what did you change in the code?
> 
> just trying to understand how it all work rather then just cut and paste
> 
> thanks dave



Hey dave, in github if you click on the history button at the top right of the code it will show the history of the changes that have been committed, for each change there is a button on the right that is filled with numbers and letters, click on that and it will show you the changes, the last change looks like THIS

so what I did was to put the line

EEPROM.write(49,0);

in the auto_mode() function at the start of a new brewing cycle to reset the hop addition counter to 0, the hop counter is stored in the eeprom so that if the boil was interupted then on resume it would know where it was up too but I only cleared the counter at the end of the boil and if it was stopped for some reason and not let go to completion, the next time a brewing cycle was started it would screw with the hop addition alarms, now it sets it to 0 at the begining of a non resumed brewing cycle.

cheers steve


----------



## wotafm

thanks steve

i am slowly getting my head around the arduino code. i do a little plc stuff at work but it is all in ladder
so i got a sparkfun kit and the learning begins  
cheers dave


----------



## bigbanko

As promised here are a few pics of what I call the Brewmaster. I still have to make up the malt pipe yet and still throwing around a few ideas on how I want it.

The brew controller is not fixed so I can move it around and also disconnect it and put it away safe while washing and cleaning the pot.















I have used a 2400 watt element and the pot size is 50 litters so I can do 23 litter batches. A 3000 watt element would have been better as it struggles to keep a rolling boil with the lid off.
To get around this I cut a 150mm dis hole in the lid and it keeps a rolling boil perfectly. Mind you I have only boiled water at this stage.













I think the only weak link maybe the little brown pump, but time will tell and I have an alternative in mind if it does.







I plan on using modified false bottoms for the filter screens as they are dished a little and quite strong with only a 1.95mm hole in them.







I also plan to use this little bilge pump to pump water from my ice bucket through the wort chiller. I will also power it from the controller and have an external switch to tun it on or off.
That way everything comes from the one power source and keeps it neat and tidy.


----------



## Davethebrewer

Great work mate , looks very tidy :icon_cheers:


----------



## Edak

bigbanko, that is awesome. I am a little concerned about the live wires hanging down the bottom but I am sure you have taken the right precautions. I look forward to seeing what you do with your malt pipe, the easiest thing to do will be to use the bigW 19L pot as a couple of us have done.

I hope to see more soon.


----------



## bigbanko

Edak said:


> bigbanko, that is awesome. I am a little concerned about the live wires hanging down the bottom but I am sure you have taken the right precautions. I look forward to seeing what you do with your malt pipe, the easiest thing to do will be to use the bigW 19L pot as a couple of us have done.
> 
> I hope to see more soon.



HI The wires are a long way up inside the black insulating sleeves with about 4 layers of heat shrink. The black insulators are then sealed on the end with silicone so there is no way you would be able to touch the terminals/
I also plan to use some spiral wrap around the wire as well to protect it.


----------



## matho

Top job there Paul, looks awesome

cheers steve


----------



## Liquidarts

How goes it everyone.....due to my busy schedule at work and an unfortunate accident yesterday crushing my hand i've got some off time.....ugh. But any ways. i'd thought i'd keep everyone posted about the all-in-one design.I re-designed it using the original pin-outs that Matho's used so there is no need for change in the coding...after the end of the holidays i'll be shooting to get 100 PCB's fabricated. 25 of those will be just plain PCB's or sale, 25 in kit form and the other 50 will be fully built ($60-&75 plus shipping).


----------



## PeteQ

Nice work bigbanko! Looks awesome!

As you said the only weak link is the little brown pump. I went through 2 of them before moving onto a magnetic pump and mine is only a 15l setup...
Good luck with the rest of the build

Cheers
Pete


----------



## bigbanko

Anyone looking for silicone seals to put on the bottom of the malt pipe should try Jehbco in Melbourne as they make hundreds of different extrusions in silicone rubber.

Jehbco


Silicone extrusions


----------



## bigbanko

I think I will try these hop balls for my hop additions and keep things nice and clean. Just extended the chain with some stainless steel tig welding wire.


----------



## vortex

I wouldn't bother. They don't fit enough hops in when you factor in how much the hops grow inside the balls (I laughed).


----------



## stux

vortex said:


> I wouldn't bother. They don't fit enough hops in when you factor in how much the hops grow inside the balls (I laughed).



I did giggle


----------



## bigbanko

Maybe best left for dry hopping in the keg then.


----------



## hsv_069

Hi All,

Im just about to make a start with the assembly of my board, im just finishing off buying all of the components now. I am having a bit of trouble finding the micromatch 6 paddle connector and ribbon, can someone let me know where you can get them from and a part number?

I am still yet to buy the arduino board. What is the best one to buy? Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-UNO-R3-...=item3ccd564f3e

Cheers


----------



## hsv_069

Also the instuctions say to use a 10K pot, but printed on the board is 5K. Which one is correct?


----------



## matho

Hey HSV the connector was mentioned HERE or you could get the ones from modtronix and mount them on the other side. I used a 10K pot but originally designed it for a 5k pot doesn't really matter which one you use both will work. That Arduino you linked is correct.

cheers steve


----------



## bigbanko

Hi Matho

I have been through a full run today with PWB to clean the whole system and have a question to ask.

During the mash stages when the unit is switching the heat on and off to maintain temperature.
Is it possible to alter the time when the heat is on and off. At the moment it is on for 1 or 2 seconds then off for 1 or 2 seconds maintaing the temperature.

I thought it would be good with the larger water volume to have the heat cycle for a bit longer time.

Cheers


----------



## matho

bigbanko said:


> Hi Matho
> 
> I have been through a full run today with PWB to clean the whole system and have a question to ask.
> 
> During the mash stages when the unit is switching the heat on and off to maintain temperature.
> Is it possible to alter the time when the heat is on and off. At the moment it is on for 1 or 2 seconds then off for 1 or 2 seconds maintaing the temperature.
> 
> I thought it would be good with the larger water volume to have the heat cycle for a bit longer time.
> 
> Cheers



Sure you can do that, the unit is set up with a PID window size that is adjustable between 500 and 5000 ms and can be set in the "unit parameters". If the 5 second window is too small then you can change the code here

void unit_set (void)
{
int param[] ={
100,-100,1,100,-100,1,100,-100,1,5000,500,500,9,1,1,8,0,1 };
int a = 0;
boolean pidLoop = false;
int pidSet,setaddr;
int windowSizeSet;
char* setName[] ={
"Kp = ","Ki = ","Kd = ","Windowsize= ","Num of Stages=","Num of Hops=" };

setaddr = 0;
for(int i=0;i<6;i++){
if((i>=0) && (i<=3)){
if (i==3) setaddr = 33;
pidSet=word(EEPROM.read(setaddr),EEPROM.read((setaddr+1)));
}
if (i==4)setaddr = 38;
if((i>=4) && (i<6)){
pidSet= EEPROM.read(setaddr);
}
pidLoop= true;
display_lcd(0,1," ");
while (pidLoop){
display_lcd(0,1,setName_);
lcd.print(pidSet);
change_set(pidSet,param[a],param[a+1],param[a+2]);
quit_mode(pidLoop);
if (!(pidLoop))i=6;

if(Button_hold_press(Button_nxt)){
if (i >= 4){
save_settings(setaddr,lowByte(pidSet));
pidLoop = false;
}
else{
save_settings(setaddr,pidSet);
pidLoop = false;
}
}
}
if (i>=4){
setaddr+=1;
}
else{
setaddr+=2;
}
a+=3;
}

}

the 5000 is the upper limit and the 500 is the lower limit and the next 500 is the step size so just change the 5000 to whatever you want.

cheers steve_


----------



## jonw

Hey guys,

I should start by saying I'm not actually using Matho's controller, but I'm building a board using the same way of driving the relays. That's where my problem is.

I have a digital pin going to an LED, through a 470 ohm resistor to the base of a 2n222A transistor. I have 12V DC to the Vin of the Arduino (it's a Mega) and to the positive terminal of the SSR. The negative terminal of the SSR goes to the transistor's collector, and the emitter goes to ground.

The trouble is my SSR is always on, i.e. whether the pin is high or low makes no difference, the LED on the SSR always glows. On digital low the voltage across the SSR measures ~4.5V, on digital high ~5.5V. I don't know if that measurement is significant. Other than that I've tested that the resistance between LED cathode and transistor base is 470 ohms, and the resistance between transistor emitter and ground is 0V. The LED is series between the Arduino pin and the transistor illuminates as expected.

I'd appreciate any pointers as to what may be wrong or how I go about troubleshooting it.

Cheers,

Jon


----------



## jonw

I think I might have found the problem. It's always the way, 10 minutes after posting on AHB. I have two datasheets for NPN transistors, that are both supposed to be 2N222As. On one the collector is pin 1, on the other it's pin 3. Looks like I need to do some soldering.


----------



## matho

jonw said:


> I think I might have found the problem. It's always the way, 10 minutes after posting on AHB. I have two datasheets for NPN transistors, that are both supposed to be 2N222As. On one the collector is pin 1, on the other it's pin 3. Looks like I need to do some soldering.



Yeah there are 2 different pin outs for the 2n2222a, which is really annoying


----------



## jonw

matho said:


> Yeah there are 2 different pin outs for the 2n2222a, which is really annoying



Certainly is! That was the problem - an hour or so of resoldering later, my relays are now working as expected.


----------



## lael

Hi, 

This is impressive! just read through the thread and very interested. If I wanted to get a system and put it together - what is the situation with boards / supplies? 

bigbanko - your build looks sweet. Would you be willing to share a parts list and costs? 


I think someone mentioned at some point the idea of adding automatic hop additions - would that be a possible extension? It would mean unattended mashing and boiling potentially?

while i'm getting all ambitious - would it be possible to extend this to load a recipe file or similar to program in the steps etc? 

Would love to see a youtube of the user interface / brew in action for a complete one of these! anyone have one?


----------



## Edak

lael said:


> Hi,
> 
> This is impressive! just read through the thread and very interested. If I wanted to get a system and put it together - what is the situation with boards / supplies?
> 
> bigbanko - your build looks sweet. Would you be willing to share a parts list and costs?
> 
> 
> I think someone mentioned at some point the idea of adding automatic hop additions - would that be a possible extension? It would mean unattended mashing and boiling potentially?
> 
> while i'm getting all ambitious - would it be possible to extend this to load a recipe file or similar to program in the steps etc?
> 
> Would love to see a youtube of the user interface / brew in action for a complete one of these! anyone have one?



Hi lael, 
where are you from? Someone may be able to demonstrate it for you. It's going to be very similar to the braumeister so watch videos for that to see what it is like.


----------



## lael

Edak said:


> Hi lael,
> where are you from? Someone may be able to demonstrate it for you. It's going to be very similar to the braumeister so watch videos for that to see what it is like.



In Sydney - happy to travel - but live out west at Rouse Hill


----------



## stux

lael said:


> In Sydney - happy to travel - but live out west at Rouse Hill



If you watch Mathos YouTube videos you can glimpse the UI


----------



## lael

Stux said:


> If you watch Mathos YouTube videos you can glimpse the UI



looked at it - love to see it in action somewhere. 

Anyone know if it can be extended for automatic hopping? think i have a fairly simple design worked out that should do the job.


----------



## ausdb

bigbanko said:


> Anyone looking for silicone seals to put on the bottom of the malt pipe should try Jehbco in Melbourne as they make hundreds of different extrusions in silicone rubber.
> 
> Jehbco
> 
> 
> Silicone extrusions



Something like 546 if it is to scale looks like it would do the trick.

I see a bulk buy coming on.....


----------



## Edak

lael said:


> looked at it - love to see it in action somewhere.
> 
> Anyone know if it can be extended for automatic hopping? think i have a fairly simple design worked out that should do the job.


Where there's a will, there's a way...

What is your idea?


----------



## lael

Edak said:


> Where there's a will, there's a way...
> 
> What is your idea?



really simple actually. just need to run a motor for a short period of time for each hopping - are there outputs / control ports available to allow that on the controller?


----------



## Edak

lael said:


> really simple actually. just need to run a motor for a short period of time for each hopping - are there outputs / control ports available to allow that on the controller?


You will have to add more control circuitry to the system as the arduino can't drive the motor directly, but it is possible. I would recommend using a stepper motor for any control such as this. 

The most limiting factor here is the number of digital pins you have left. I don't know whether there is an I2C driver available but that would be nice.


----------



## vortex

There are I2C I/O expanders out there that aren't expensive - so using something like this it would be easy enough to implement. Done correctly it could be used on any system that supports I2C.


----------



## Edak

Or with no additional hardware you could modify a servo motor to have it spin without limits, then drive it directly from the Arduino with one pwm pin... Thinking of trying this myself...


----------



## matho

there is 4 digital I/O left (0,1,12,13) and 2 analog pins left (A4, A5), A4 and A5 are the I2C pins so you can use them to expand or just use the extra digital I/O's to do what you want.

cheers steve


----------



## vortex

Edak said:


> Or with no additional hardware you could modify a servo motor to have it spin without limits, then drive it directly from the Arduino with one pwm pin... Thinking of trying this myself...


I like your thinking


----------



## lael

So how do I get my hands on one of matho's boards / kits and which arduino would you recommend using with it? I'm just starting with the whole microcontroller thing, though I'm comfortable programming. What would you recommend to learn arduino?


----------



## Edak

lael said:


> So how do I get my hands on one of matho's boards / kits and which arduino would you recommend using with it? I'm just starting with the whole microcontroller thing, though I'm comfortable programming. What would you recommend to learn arduino?


I recommend that you get a starter kit like this:
dx.com
Then you have everything you need to get your hands dirty. 
Work through some examples and use the arduino website for info.


----------



## lael

ok, arduino ordered! Does anyone have one of matho's shields they want to get rid of/don't need?


----------



## matho

I have a spare PCB that I was putting aside for my own use but you can have it, PM me your details. You will have to source all the parts yourself as I don't have any left.

cheers steve


----------



## lael

matho said:


> I have a spare PCB that I was putting aside for my own use but you can have it, PM me your details. You will have to source all the parts yourself as I don't have any left.
> 
> cheers steve



Steve, 

That's incredibly generous! PM on its way!


----------



## tynian

Hey Guys,

So my little brown pump was not up to the task yesterday. As a result I am looking to buy a 240v pump to replace it.

Would it be possible for anyone who has fitted the RC suppression circuit to send me a picture of how they have hooked it up?

Cheers
Rob


----------



## bigbanko

I have a little spare time over the xmas break so I knocked up a mobile stand for the brewer which is at a good height to lift the malt pipe and also place the controller at a more comfortable level.
Also made room for some storage underneath and a place to put the esky when chilling the wort with my chiller.







I also added a power box with a 12volt supply to run a bilge pump when wort chilling.






Controller just lifts out of the bracket and packed away when not using.
















I fill the esky with water and ice while the pump recirculates it through my wort chiller.







I will give it another run this weekend on the new stand.


----------



## Edak

bigbanko said:


> I have a little spare time over the xmas break so I knocked up a mobile stand for the brewer which is at a good height to lift the malt pipe and also place the controller at a more comfortable level.
> Also made room for some storage underneath and a place to put the esky when chilling the wort with my chiller.
> 
> [img=[URL="http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010391.jpg%5D"]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010391.jpg][/URL]
> 
> I also added a power box with a 12volt supply to run a bilge pump when wort chilling.
> 
> [img=[URL="http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010394-1.jpg%5D"]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010394-1.jpg][/URL]
> 
> Controller just lifts out of the bracket and packed away when not using.
> 
> [img=[URL="http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010392.jpg%5D"]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010392.jpg][/URL]
> 
> [img=[URL="http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010397.jpg%5D"]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010397.jpg][/URL]
> 
> [img=[URL="http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010393.jpg%5D"]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010393.jpg][/URL]
> 
> I fill the esky with water and ice while the pump recirculates it through my wort chiller.
> 
> [img=[URL="http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010395.jpg%5D"]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x27/bigbanko/P1010395.jpg][/URL]
> 
> 
> I will give it another run this weekend on the new stand.



looking great! Is it beneficial to run the ice water through at the start rather than later in the cooling cycle? I would have thought that it would melt all your ice too soon before it cools down enough.


----------



## bigbanko

Edak said:


> looking great! Is it beneficial to run the ice water through at the start rather than later in the cooling cycle? I would have thought that it would melt all your ice too soon before it cools down enough.


I use ice that I make by filling 3 litre ice cream containers which I keep replacing as they melt. If the water level gets a little high in the esky I just flip the return line over to an empty bucket and and drain some off.
Last time I brewed I had 7 blocks of ice and this brought the temp down to 22c from boiling.

I have plenty of room to make and store ice so thats not a problem.


----------



## bonj

Edak said:


> looking great! Is it beneficial to run the ice water through at the start rather than later in the cooling cycle? I would have thought that it would melt all your ice too soon before it cools down enough.


The greater the heat differential, the better the heat exchange... but if you don't have enough ice to last for the whole run, I would think it'd be best used at the end where you can get the cooling water below ambient. I'm not a scientist though (well, not in that field  )


----------



## Sammus

bigbanko said:


> I use ice that I make by filling 3 litre ice cream containers which I keep replacing as they melt. If the water level gets a little high in the esky I just flip the return line over to an empty bucket and and drain some off.
> Last time I brewed I had 7 blocks of ice and this brought the temp down to 22c from boiling.
> 
> I have plenty of room to make and store ice so thats not a problem.


7 blocks, good to know. How much liquid were you cooling?


----------



## bigbanko

Sammus said:


> 7 blocks, good to know. How much liquid were you cooling?


20 liters


----------



## stux

And 7x3 = 21. Interesting no?


----------



## bonj

That would be interesting if the ambient temperature and the temperature of the water from the tap were known...


----------



## bigbanko

Bonj said:


> That would be interesting if the ambient temperature and the temperature of the water from the tap were known...


I started with 25 liters of chilled water approx 3-4 deg c. When the temp comes down and the water gets hot, I pump off the hot water into a container, then fill with tap water and start adding the ice.
I then cool the initial hot water and use it next time.

Using the garden hose wastes too much water as the ambient temps here can stay between 30 and 43 degrees during summer.

I also keep the water at the end and use it to make ice.


----------



## Judanero

Is there some sort of group order happening at the moment for the pcbs? If yes.... count me in for one!!


----------



## Sammus

tynian said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> So my little brown pump was not up to the task yesterday. As a result I am looking to buy a 240v pump to replace it.
> 
> Would it be possible for anyone who has fitted the RC suppression circuit to send me a picture of how they have hooked it up?
> 
> Cheers
> Rob


No worries, here's a pic I just took https://www.dropbox.com/s/jr2t0yd58p6532p/20130120_133710.jpg The capacitor is the yellow thing on the right, you can see the resistor attached to one of the legs just underneath it.

I used the bits linked below in series, and soldered them across the pump switch terminals on the shield.



Sammus said:


> certainly is  gave it a more thorough testing today, works like a charm! Used http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...;SUBCATID=967#1 and http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...;SUBCATID=968#1


----------



## tynian

Thanks Sammus. I will be off to jaycar later this week 

Rob.


----------



## breakbeer

Hi Guys,

After a few months of tinkering around (and a shitload of help from AHB member Edak) I've _almost_ finished my controller, all that's left is the 240V wiring. I was considering getting a sparky to do it but now I'm thinking of tackling it myself & then just getting it checked.

I need some advice about positioning the temp probe. Keeping in mind my rig is not a Braumeiser clone, it's a 70L pot & I use a crab cooker basket to hoist the bag. I've been using an STC100 up to now (with mixed results) and have a stainless probe hooked up to it which I just use to submerge in the grain.

I have one of these temp probes:

http://www.eio.com/p-41870-sure-electronics-mb-sm17116-3m-digital-thermal-tank-sensor-horizontal-ds18b20-rohs.aspx

and here's the pot, it has two elements but only one is in use during the mash (the one closest to the bottom of the pic)




I just can't decide where to place the probe? I recirculate from the bottom & up through the lid & I'm looking at making it a dual return.

Does it really matter where I place the probe?

Any advice would be great. Sorry if you think this is the wrong thread, but it loosely relates to Matho's controller so I put it here.


----------



## Judanero

If you're going to be recirculating then it doesn't matter imo, changes in temp would be negligible (unless maybe directly above/below the element).

I'd probably put it opposite the tap. Potatoes..potatoes. :beer:


----------



## bigbanko

Hi Matho


Can you indicate what part of the program changes the run time before a pump rest and the duration of the pump rest itself.

Had a good brew day today. The new pump worked a treat and gained 82% efficiency on a wheat beer.



Cheers

Paul


----------



## matho

hey Paul,

its in the pump rest function


void pump_rest (int stage)
{
if (stage==9){
pumpRest = false;
if (Temp_c<94.0) digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
else digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
if (Temp_c >= 95)tempReached = true;
}
else{
pumptempError = stageTemp-Temp_c;
if (pumptempError <= 0)tempReached = true;
if ((pumpTime < 10)){ // starts pumps and heat
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
pumpRest =false;
}
if ((pumpTime >= 10)){ // pump rest
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
pumpRest = true;
if(pumpTime>=12 || (pumptempError > 1.0))pumpTime = 0;
}
}
}

where is says If ((pumpTime>=10)){ the 10 should make the pump rest happen every 10 minutes unless the temp error is greater than 1 deg and where it says if pumpTime>=12 that should make the pump rest last for 2 minutes unless the temp error is greater than 1

good to hear you had a good brewday

cheers steve


----------



## bigbanko

Thamks Steve

Your work and support on this project has been invaluable. I sure do appreciate the assistance,

Cheers
Paul


----------



## breakbeer

Finally got her up n running! Time for a test run





Yeah, yeah I know, the lcd screen isn't straight, the buttons are in a different position & there are 3 red & one black instead of the other way around. Bit of a shoddy job at putting it together but I'm pretty stoked that it's finished.

Massive Thanks to Matho & Bonj for all their work on this & also to Edak for putting the boards together for me. I owe you all a beer


----------



## bigbanko

Yeah, yeah I know, the lcd screen isn't straight, the buttons are in a different position & there are 3 red & one black instead of the other way around. Bit of a shoddy job at putting it together but I'm pretty stoked that it's finished.

Some like form over function others like function over form. So long as it works is what makes the beer,

Cheers


----------



## breakbeer

Too true, as long as she works I'm happy.

Running a test with it right now. Looks like I've fudged the pump wiring somewhere along the line, it's not working at all & the LED is not on. I'll re-read the instructions again

A couple of questions:

What have others got their window size set to? Mine is at 500, but I think that might be too low. It's holding temp perfectly, but the Red LED is blinking at a rate of about 2 per second. Just wondering if that's putting stress on the element?

At the Mash In stage it beeped & told me to Add Malt but way before the set temp was reached.
From the instructions:

the first step is always the MashIn stage, after the set temperature has been reached the timer will start to count down. At the end of the MashIn stage the unit will prompt for the malt to be added and will wait for a confirm or a quit.

I had the Mash In temp set at 68, but it had only reached approx' 35 degress when it prompted me to add the malt. Is this an error or should I have waited for the strike water to reach temp before starting the program?


----------



## matho

that is not right, either it was a glich with the ds18b20 probe read or there is something I'm missing in the code. I might give it a go on my unit to see what I get, could you give me your stage temps and times and I'll fire up my unit and see. As for the window size you can extend it if you want but it shouldn't do any damage to the element pulsing that quickly but it might heat up the SSR a little bit more. Has anyone else experienced a problem with the add malt alert happening before the temp is reached?

cheers steve


----------



## breakbeer

Thanks Steve

Mashin was set @ 68 for 5
Stage 1 @ 65 for 60
Stage 2 @ 78 for 10


I've also installed a PC fan in the side next to the SSR, so hopefully there shouldn't be a problem with over heating


----------



## bigbanko

I have my window set at 7500 and happy with it


----------



## bigbanko

Matho

Why does the mash in have an adjustable timer and not just prompt you for the malt when the temp has been reached.

Cheers


----------



## PeteQ

Breakbeer - did you have mash in time set to 0. I noticed that if it is at 0 as soon as you start the auto operation it prompts water added then straight after you hit OK it prompts to add malt.

Hopefully this solves that issue?

My window size I kept at default - 2000. I've found the PID settings seem to be a lot more important to avoid overshoot and to hold the temps nicely took me quite a bit of playing around. No stress on the element at 500, a resistive load should be able to handle it no problems.


----------



## breakbeer

PeteQ said:


> Breakbeer - did you have mash in time set to 0. I noticed that if it is at 0 as soon as you start the auto operation it prompts water added then straight after you hit OK it prompts to add malt.


Nah, I had it set to 5mins


----------



## matho

bigbanko said:


> Matho
> 
> Why does the mash in have an adjustable timer and not just prompt you for the malt when the temp has been reached.
> 
> Cheers


yeah I suppose I could have made it do that but it was easier just to treat it as a stage, gives you one more thing to play with

cheers steve


----------



## Edak

Hey Glenn, 

If you ever come back this way again (Burwood) on a brew-day I can show you how my system works. I don't have the same code as Matho but it is a comparable system.
I am looking to get my wireless logging system up and running tomorrow so I will get immediate email notifications if anything goes wrong or when I need to do something. Will be interesting to try out,


----------



## breakbeer

Might have to take you up on that offer, I reckon I've figured it out but it wouldn't hurt to get some input

When is your likely next brew day? I'll be brewing a Fat Yak style tomorrow


----------



## breakbeer

Update:
I decided to go ahead & brew with the Brauduino today. Instaed of starting with cold water & waiting for it to get to temp I started with hot tap water which was 55c so it didn't have far to go to reach my desired mash in temp of 68.

Once it reached 68c the mash in timer started to count down! After the set time of 5 minutes it prompted to Add Malt.

So there must be a problem somewhere with the ramp time setting, if it takes too long to reach the set temp coz you started with 20c water then it gets confused (that's my technical jargon)

Really not sure how to fix it but at least there's a way around it

Will let ya know how the brew day goes


----------



## PeteQ

Nice one Breakbeer!

Good luck with the brew day. My advice - take notes!!

Cheers


----------



## breakbeer

Just had to unplug it 

Everything was going perfectly, until the end of the last stage.

I had a mashout @ 78c for 10mins & at the end of the countdown it just displayed Pump Rest. I thought it would last 2mins like the other rests but after 20mins of staring at the LCD waiting for it to change and seeing no rise in temp on the Brewmometer I unplugged it & have plugged the elements in directly to get it to boil

Edak, I have a feeling I'm gonna need you're coding expertise again


----------



## PeteQ

I'm pretty sure Matho fixed this previously in this thread but a quick fix is to turn it off, turn it back on and resume in auto mode.

Out of 20 or so brews it's only happened to me once...


----------



## breakbeer

Cheers Pete, I'll try that next time.


----------



## matho

breakbeer said:


> Update:
> I decided to go ahead & brew with the Brauduino today. Instaed of starting with cold water & waiting for it to get to temp I started with hot tap water which was 55c so it didn't have far to go to reach my desired mash in temp of 68.
> 
> Once it reached 68c the mash in timer started to count down! After the set time of 5 minutes it prompted to Add Malt.
> 
> So there must be a problem somewhere with the ramp time setting, if it takes too long to reach the set temp coz you started with 20c water then it gets confused (that's my technical jargon)
> 
> Really not sure how to fix it but at least there's a way around it
> 
> Will let ya know how the brew day goes


there shouldn't be a problem with the amount of time it takes to reach the set temperature, as I said it could be a problem with the ds18b20 read, one wrong read above the set temp will start the timer counting down, I have never experienced a wrong read but a guy in the US did but it ended up being a dicky connection. I could make it so there needs to be 2 consecutive reads above the set temp before the counter starts. Let me know if it happens again.



breakbeer said:


> Just had to unplug it
> 
> Everything was going perfectly, until the end of the last stage.
> 
> I had a mashout @ 78c for 10mins & at the end of the countdown it just displayed Pump Rest. I thought it would last 2mins like the other rests but after 20mins of staring at the LCD waiting for it to change and seeing no rise in temp on the Brewmometer I unplugged it & have plugged the elements in directly to get it to boil
> 
> Edak, I have a feeling I'm gonna need you're coding expertise again


That problem should have been fixed with the latest code https://github.com/mathoaus/braumiser-controller/blob/master/brauduino2.ino


cheers steve


----------



## Edak

I have had MANY problems with wrong reads and I have not been able to track it down. I can see that the CRC checks all fail and it would not resume correctly unless the sensor power was removed. It could be heat related so I put in some ventilation holes into the box (non-ideal for cleaning!). The other thing I have done (untested) is to monitor for this condition and have the arduino power down the sensor for a second then power it back up. I will find out soon. 

Glenn, it's hard to tell when I will be brewing next. I am working weekends recently so it will probably be an evening some time.


----------



## tynian

Hey Guys,

I have just tested my new pump along with the suppression circuit. All works well except for one thing, the pump will only run when I have the heater on as well. I suspect I have misread the wiring diag in Mathos docs. Can anyone give me any clues as to the correct wiring for the pump control?

Cheers
Rob


----------



## matho

tynian said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I have just tested my new pump along with the suppression circuit. All works well except for one thing, the pump will only run when I have the heater on as well. I suspect I have misread the wiring diag in Mathos docs. Can anyone give me any clues as to the correct wiring for the pump control?
> 
> Cheers
> Rob


sounds like you got the pump active connected to the wrong side of the SSR, going off the last page of the build PDF http://aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=54981. from the 240 in plug you should have one wire going to the SSR, one going to the 12v supply and one going to one of the pump terminal, the active of the pump connected to the other pump terminal. Both the earth and the neutral of the pump outlet should be connected directly to the 240v input connector. If you can show us a pic I'm sure we will be able to work it out.

cheers steve


----------



## tynian

Thanks Steve.

That did the trick. I had just misunderstood the connection to the active from the load rather than the ssr.

Looks like my suppression circuit isn't quite right though. Will have to see what is going on with it.

Cheers
Rob


----------



## matho

here is the RS parts list for those how want to order more kits

View attachment parts list.pdf


you will need to order a 16 X 2 lcd screen too

cheers steve


----------



## lael

matho said:


> here is the RS parts list for those how want to order more kits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> parts list.pdf
> 
> you will need to order a 16 X 2 lcd screen too
> 
> cheers steve


Thanks Steve!


----------



## matho

for those who are making up new boards I have changed the PCB to include RC snubber circuit across the relay contacts and have moved the LEDS so the you won't need to solder leads on them




Seeed studio has changed the way you order PCB's, you used to have to get an order number and put that order number on the PCB silkscreen which meant you needed to produce new gerber files for each order, now you don't need a order number so I have made up the gerber files need to make the new PCB 'braumiser v2.1'

View attachment 60419


cheers steve


----------



## bigbanko

matho said:


> for those who are making up new boards I have changed the PCB to include RC snubber circuit across the relay contacts and have moved the LEDS so the you won't need to solder leads on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brauduinov3 board.png
> 
> Seeed studio has changed the way you order PCB's, you used to have to get an order number and put that order number on the PCB silkscreen which meant you needed to produce new gerber files for each order, now you don't need a order number so I have made up the gerber files need to make the new PCB 'braumiser v2.1'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brauduinov3.zip
> 
> cheers steve


Hi Steve

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the RC snubber circuit used for, or what is it's purpose.

Thanks


----------



## matho

to try and reduce the interference caused by switching a AC pump, it seems that the EMI produced by switching was scrambling the LCD screen.

the extra parts are a 100nF metallised Polypropylene Capacitor and a 100 ohm 1/2 w resistor

cheers steve


----------



## matho

I was just reviewing the gerber files and noticed an error, I have deleted the zip but for those that have downloaded it please don't use it as there is no ground connection between the pump transistor emitter and GND and there is a short between the pump transistor collector and GND. I have fixed the problem and attached a new zip

View attachment brauduinov3.zip


cheers steve


----------



## matho

breakbeer said:


> Too true, as long as she works I'm happy.
> 
> Running a test with it right now. Looks like I've fudged the pump wiring somewhere along the line, it's not working at all & the LED is not on. I'll re-read the instructions again
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> What have others got their window size set to? Mine is at 500, but I think that might be too low. It's holding temp perfectly, but the Red LED is blinking at a rate of about 2 per second. Just wondering if that's putting stress on the element?
> 
> At the Mash In stage it beeped & told me to Add Malt but way before the set temp was reached.
> From the instructions:
> 
> the first step is always the MashIn stage, after the set temperature has been reached the timer will start to count down. At the end of the MashIn stage the unit will prompt for the malt to be added and will wait for a confirm or a quit.
> 
> I had the Mash In temp set at 68, but it had only reached approx' 35 degress when it prompted me to add the malt. Is this an error or should I have waited for the strike water to reach temp before starting the program?


Hey Breakbeer,

I have been looking into the problem you have been having, unfortunately I have misplaced my temp sensor lead for my unit so I couldn't test it out but I have changed the code so the temperature needs to be at or above the set temperature for over 3 seconds before it starts to countdown. I have bench tested it but not in a real life situation so I'm not going to push it to github until it has been tested

View attachment brauduino2test.txt


if you could check it out to see if it works, just change the .txt to .ino and load it up to the arduino

cheers steve


----------



## breakbeer

Thanks for going to that effort Steve! I've enlisted Edak to help me with the coding so hopefully I'll catch up with him soon. I'll definitely report back with the results

Cheers!


----------



## voodoobrew

Just wondering if there were any left over PCB's going spare? Or whether there were plans to do another run. I'm looking to build an arduino-based system and this looks like an excellent start to interfacing all the necessary hardware.


----------



## claudiobr74

Hi Steve,

Do you have this new PCB with snubber in eagle files?


cheers,

Claudio


----------



## matho

claudiobr74 said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> Do you have this new PCB with snubber in eagle files?
> 
> 
> cheers,
> 
> Claudio


Sure mate,


View attachment brauduino snubber.zip


cheers steve


----------



## real_beer

matho said:


> hey real_beer, the chips are fairly rugged and handling them with out earthing yourself shouldn't fry them. To me it sounds like the tranistors are not right but I can't tell without actually having the unit. I would say the screen needs the contast adjusted ( the trimpot) but I would expect both the lines to be dark not just one. I don't have much time at the moment and I know your a long way away but if you get stuck post it back to me and I'll fix it for you.
> 
> cheers


Steve,

Thanks for all your help checking the boards over. I bought & added the 100nF metallised Polypropylene Capacitor and a 100 ohm 1/2 w resistor to control the EMI & everthing works great now. Just have to get an element & I'll be able to finish the build.

cheers


----------



## matho

That is great to hear tony


----------



## matho

matho said:


> Hey Breakbeer,
> 
> I have been looking into the problem you have been having, unfortunately I have misplaced my temp sensor lead for my unit so I couldn't test it out but I have changed the code so the temperature needs to be at or above the set temperature for over 3 seconds before it starts to countdown. I have bench tested it but not in a real life situation so I'm not going to push it to github until it has been tested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brauduino2test.txt
> 
> if you could check it out to see if it works, just change the .txt to .ino and load it up to the arduino
> 
> cheers steve


I tested it this arvo and it looks like it worked well, of course I wasn't getting any read errors to start with.
cheers steve


----------



## Sam England

Evening Matho & Breakbeer,
Just thought I'd let you know that I had the same issue as Breakbeer on the weekend. I'd set mash-in for 40deg and then 20 mins at 50 etc. The temp got to 27deg from 22 deg and then prompted for add malt. I added the malt anyway and kicked it off again. It then started the countdown for the protein rest at 38deg. Once it got to 50deg everything ran smoothly for the 67, 72 and 78 degree steps. I hadn't seen this issue on the first couple of water only runs.

Other than these minor issues (which you seem to be on top of anyway) it's a great system and a hell of a lot easier than constantly monitoring temps like I used to. I'll hopefully post some pics of the system tonight when I get home. I managed to make a voile top filter plate which worked well with 4.85kg grain bill in a stout. I'm sure some of the other tight arses like me out there might be interested!! 

Thanks again for your work on this one Matho.

Cheers,
BB


----------



## claudiobr74

matho said:


> Sure mate,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brauduino snubber.zip
> 
> cheers steve


Thank you! Best regards.


----------



## Edak

matho said:


> to try and reduce the interference caused by switching a AC pump, it seems that the EMI produced by switching was scrambling the LCD screen.
> 
> the extra parts are a 100nF metallised Polypropylene Capacitor and a 100 ohm 1/2 w resistor
> 
> cheers steve


Have these changes eliminated the issue? I don't remember you mentioning this issue in the past. This has happened to me once or twice also, drove me nuts.


----------



## matho

Edak said:


> Have these changes eliminated the issue? I don't remember you mentioning this issue in the past. This has happened to me once or twice also, drove me nuts.


wotfm first mentioned it here http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/59563-i-want-mathos-controler/?p=975491 and the discussion follows the next couple of pages
putting a RC suppression circuit across the load or the contacts seems to work but I'm not 100% sure.


----------



## real_beer

Edak said:


> Have these changes eliminated the issue? I don't remember you mentioning this issue in the past. This has happened to me once or twice also, drove me nuts.


Edak,

My controller went ballistic every time I turned it on, if I hadn't spent so much time & effort building it i'd have smashed it to pieces with a hammer :angry: .

I think most of the people who bought the first kits were going to use them with a little 12v brown pump (I was myself), so the problem didn't show itself until a few people tried them with 240v pumps.

When I saw people start disscussing using a march pump instead, I decided to do the same & added the extra wiring & power outlet. Unfortunately for me although people disscussed the idea well before I built mine they musn't have built theirs straight away. When I first up powered the controller up I thought I'd messed the soldering up or damaged a part during assembly. After numerous unsuccessful attempts to fix the problem Steve kindly offered to check the boards out but didn't find a problem. When I got them back (along with a new set Steve had made) I had the same problem again and couldn't figure out what was wrong, so I gave up & decided if they worked okay for Steve he might as well have them & sent them back.

Then the EMI problem surfaced as all the lazy bastards who'd originally bought their kits finally started to build them :lol: . I must also point out I used pretty heavy guage wire on the outlets which probably exacerbated the problem a fair bit more than other members builds.

Steve sent the boards back last week & I got the extra parts from Jaycar the next day & soldered them in, *success!*
After numerous on/off cylces the contoller hasn't shown a problem, all the buttons, lights & menu's work as they should so I think you could confidently say the problem is solved. Fingers crossed.

I can't tell you how satisfying it is after all the problems to finally see the thing working as it was designed to be :super: .

Thanks again Steve


----------



## wotafm

matho said:


> wotfm first mentioned it here http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/59563-i-want-mathos-controler/?p=975491 and the discussion follows the next couple of pages
> putting a RC suppression circuit across the load or the contacts seems to work but I'm not 100% sure.


i have run my unit quite a few times now and the snubber circuit has stopped the problem.
before i put it on it would scramble the display 8 out of 10 times


----------



## Sam England

Evening Lads,
Finally some pics of the build. Hopefully it will give a few others some ideas, as I know I've stolen a heap from the other builds (Matho obviously & ArnieW may spring to mind). Still hoping to edit the code and add the second unit as a HLT next to the first. The malt pipe will lift out from the first and transfer to the second for a recirculated sparge or for parti-gyle if I'm doing a high OG brew.




Functional unit - wired for the second HLT which is only partly finished. The missus is stoked as I'm now brewing outside and not taking over "her" kitchen!!





Elements wired in parallel pairs. 4 x 3000W giving total of 3000W with four times the surface area. Malt pipe inlet in the centre.





Base of malt pipe with legs to sit it in the base of the kettle. Malt pipe uses tightish diameters and no seals to couple to the spigot in the kettle base.





Malt pipe extension for larger brews and top filter plate assembly with clamps.





Used to circulate the wort during chilling and to tie hop bags to during the boil. My immersion chiller will fit straight in over the top and not cause issues with hop spiders etc. The vertical leg is blocked just above the horizontal arm to divert the flow.





Stout wort recirculating. Mashed in with 23L and 4.85kg grain. Just over 80% eff into fermenter, so stoked with the first brew. 1.5L lost to trub which was also a hell of a lot less than my previous BIAB which I put down to clearer wort.





Boil with hop bags tied to spigot in the middle. I had to bump the boil set temp up to 99.5 degrees to get a suitable boil.

All in all, a hell of a lot smoother brew day than I expected for the first run. Now to start with the continuous tweaking process!! 
Cheers again to everyone who helped get me to this point,
BB


----------



## Sam England

Left out the filter plate arrangement. Please excuse my sewing, but just coarse voille bag with a drawstring that's pulled up over the butchered keg lid I chopped out for the pot. I'll be converting the second one to the bottom plate now that I know the top works and is strong enough. I'll probably use more smaller windows and block the centre hole so that the grain weight doesn't push through and restrict the flow.


----------



## Edak

You couldn't bless us with higher res/size pictures? The ones in your post are about 20 pixels large.


----------



## Sam England

Arvo Edak,

Sorry for the images, but it's the first time I'd posted from the gallery and must have stuffed up the settings when I linked them. The Gallery is labelled Blue Baggers, but you should get there from the link below.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/member/21459-blue-baggers/

Cheers,
BB


----------



## PeteQ

Blue baggers it all looks awesome, well done!

I know this project is all about how cheap you can get it done, but for around $20 you can get some stainless mesh instead of the voile bag? Maybe something to think of if you have a blowout? Even the little brown pump easily bent 1.5mm stainless plate that was only 220mm diameter fixed in the centre.

80% efficiency into the fermenter is very good! I'm generally getting around 70% but I've been doing a lot of tweaking lately and have it up to around 75% and hoping to get up well into the 80's.

Cheers
Pete


----------



## Sam England

Cheers Pete,
I was stoked with the efficiency as well. That was with 10L of sparge water to get my preboil volume of 31L, so not the purist version of the braumeister single vessel.

Although I mentioned the voille as a tight arse option, I actually decided to use it to maximise the flow area. At max pressure the pump can put around 18kg force on the top plate (assuming a blockage) which is considerably less than the load some of the double batch BIABers put on their bags so thought I'd give it a crack. Me hedging my bets is also the reason why I hadn't made my bottom plate out of the other keg cutout so that I had a fall back of the voille didn't work. It is actually a fair bit coarser in weave than my old BIAB bags which helped with the flow.


----------



## Edak

Very impressive! Well done BB


----------



## lael

Looks great! How does the extendable malt pipe work? What capacity does the build do?


----------



## Sam England

Cheers guys,
Lael, the 4 bolts on the side of the standard pot just undo and the extra BigW pot with the bottom cut out of it just sleeves down inside of it. These bolts I removed just get put back in and some extra bolts go in the top sleeve to support the filter plate as per the shorter design. I haven't tested it for wort flow yet as I've only done the one brew, but I'd expect to get at least another 2.5-3kg of grain in there. This would give a grain bill of around 8kg with the lowest volume of around 25L at Mash in. Not sure how big a beer I could end up with yet as I haven't run the calcs, but this is where I was looking at using a parti-gyle setup with the other pot. Probably useful for a high alc belgium dubbel. With this pipe I could probably knock out 35L of 1.045 beer, but as I prefer the variety and convenience of kegging I can't see me doing much more than 25L very often.


----------



## jonw

Hey guys,

I have a problem that sounds a little like the screen-scrambling issue mentioned here. I'm not using Matho's controller - rather I'm building something similar for a 3V system. I have a concealed element in my tun for use as a direct fired RIMS. During the mash, I hear the occasional "ticking" sound coming from the tun, which I think is the over-temp cutout on the element kicking in (happened lots today when I tried to do a protein rest, but that's a different story.) Sometimes the screen on my controller goes blank and won't come back to life without power cycling (backlight stays on, just no characters) and this seems to coincide with the the ticking sound.

The element's controlled through a SSR. Does it sound plausible that the over-temp cutout's causing this? If so, would a snubber as described previously help?

Cheers,

Jon


----------



## Edak

A solid state relay will prevent the EMI issue, so there is another cause for the problem, SSR's get really hot when they are conducting (power to your element on), perhaps you have a heat issue?


----------



## MastersBrewery

Edak said:


> A solid state relay will prevent the EMI issue, so there is another cause for the problem, SSR's get really hot when they are conducting (power to your element on), perhaps you have a heat issue?


As I understand it the problem solve with the snubber unit was one of noise on the 240v circuit connected directly to the shield it self. Now if there is an SSR involved then there should only be clean 12v connected to the arduino/shield. The EMI may well be causes by the proximity of the 240v to the arduino/shield. Easy to test for by moving the SSR a good distance away and lengthening the 12v run to it, of course ensuring the rest of the 240v is well clear at the same time. Users of system such as Brewtroller regularly have seperate high and low voltage control boxes that elliminate the problem.


----------



## jonw

I've got three SSRs in the box, all screwed to the same heatsink. I've used heat transfer compound, and the heatsink doesn't get hot to touch (warm yes, hot no).

The pictures below show the inside (excuse messy wiring for the time being!) and the heatsink from the back.

The screen blanking does co-incide with the tciking noise. Thanks for ruling out EMI. I guess I'll have to swap things around to narrow it down, e.g. swap around the HLT and MLT SSRs to see if that makes any difference.







Cheers,

Jon


----------



## jonw

MastersBrewery said:


> As I understand it the problem solve with the snubber unit was one of noise on the 240v circuit connected directly to the shield it self. Now if there is an SSR involved then there should only be clean 12v connected to the arduino/shield. The EMI may well be causes by the proximity of the 240v to the arduino/shield. Easy to test for by moving the SSR a good distance away and lengthening the 12v run to it, of course ensuring the rest of the 240v is well clear at the same time. Users of system such as Brewtroller regularly have seperate high and low voltage control boxes that elliminate the problem.


Hmmm, OK. I have my arduino very close to my SSRs. Unfortunately there's not much I can do about that without a fairly significant redesign. The SSRs are transistor driven per Matho's circuit, so they're reasonably isolated. There's certainly only 12V going to my "shield".

I think I'll tidy up my cabling int he first place and see if that does any good.


----------



## MastersBrewery

jonw said:


> I've got three SSRs in the box, all screwed to the same heatsink. I've used heat transfer compound, and the heatsink doesn't get hot to touch (warm yes, hot no).
> 
> The pictures below show the inside (excuse messy wiring for the time being!) and the heatsink from the back.
> 
> The screen blanking does co-incide with the tciking noise. Thanks for ruling out EMI. I guess I'll have to swap things around to narrow it down, e.g. swap around the HLT and MLT SSRs to see if that makes any difference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_0355.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_0356.JPG
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Jon


From what you've said in your previous two posts, I recon your elements boil dry switch is kicking in and the result is EMI created when current is going from full draw to zero and then back to full draw. Looking at the control box you have a lot of HV (240v) in close proximity to the Arduino. You could try shielding the Arduino, but more common to sheild the cables causing the interferance.


----------



## Edak

Foil is good for this purpose, ensure you have a non conductive between the foil and other electronics though, earth the foil.

EMI is probably caused by a small spark in the boil dry switch. Exactly the same issue as across relay contacts. If you can get to the switch then you could also try putting a snubber across it.


----------



## Edak

Am doing a brew today and I still get a few glitches on the temperature readings. My system fixes it up by powering down the DS18B20 but the snubber didn't fix that issue...  I still get a 85 deg reading every now and then, which is the first reading after a reset.

Hopefully there are no other issues, eg scrambled display.


----------



## jonw

What are those screenshots from? They look good!


----------



## Edak

They are from a data logger, it's called a dataTaker DT80. They are quite expensive but very awesome. I used to work for them and bought a second-hand one after I left.


----------



## jonw

I was hoping you were going to point me to an open source project that was completely free and very awesome ;-)

I've got a bluetooth interface on its way from deal extreme, so I might have a go at graphing output when that arrives. Not sure I'll be able to do it real time though.


----------



## matho

hey Edak the 85 deg reading is standard after a reset as it is the default that is written to the scratchpad at startup

cheers steve


----------



## Edak

Yeah I realise that Steve, which is why I wrote it 

There were no other hiccups so all in all a good brew day other than poor efficiency. Efficiency problem most likely due to having received a larger quantity of milled grain than ordered which meant I had to leave some in the bag which probably had all the good fermentable powder at the bottom.


----------



## matho

oops, just re-read your post. Strange that your getting read errors as I haven't experienced one but my sensor lead is only 50cm long


----------



## Edak

Yeah, I get them now and then which is why I had to re-think my sensor wiring, my wire is only about 20cm long but I think it has something to do with its proximity to the switch mode power supply, which may have been affected by the EMI from the relay, etc. The bugger of a thing was when one reading came out wrong (crc error) it never recovered and the only way to restore correct readings was to power it down, which required me to power the entire unit down (see the problem?). I couldn't track it down to anything, I furst thought it was the switch mode power supply I used, which I ripped out and replaced and that seemingly fixed the problem but it came back. I now use parasite power from the signal digital pin and power it off/on when it occurs, which in the case of the last brew was twice that I saw (I log every two seconds but who knows how many events I missed?).

Anyway, no more power downs required.


----------



## matho

here are the latest gerber files and eagle files to get PCB's made up send the brauduinov2.1 zip to seeedstudio.


View attachment brauduino v2.1.zip


View attachment brauduinov2.1_eagle.zip



cheers steve


----------



## Bridges

Does anyone know if there has been a bulk buy of PCB's recently?
I'd love to get my hands on one.
Cheers


----------



## Blackbeer&rum

i like two kits please if avaiable


----------



## Blackbeer&rum

hello Matho,

Food for thought

had a bit to do with the selling of things, you simply sell the units as the s/steel tanks and stand and then then control box with plug in as another pack that gets around the working single item?

Dom


----------



## lael

HI Blackbeer&rum,

take a look at http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-bonjuino-and-mathos-controller-30/

on about the third page are a couple of PDF's showing various options. The Kit is the PCB and bits to build a 'shield' for arduino. You will need to source and build the rest yourself. I'll have some kits arriving in the two weeks if you are interested.

Lael


----------



## Blackbeer&rum

thanks Lael, so i still need Matho pcb circuit to complete the build?

'shield' ?????? is this the lcd part of the unit????

just found out i think i would love two kits please have another guy interested,

what comes in the kit, all control electronics??

pm me please so i can pay you


----------



## saviothecnic

matho said:


> I have been working on a one board layout
> 
> 
> 
> braumist...oard_top.pdf


Interesting I read from 'Italy
Sorry if it is poorly written use Google Translator

I also like the Brauimaster but too expensive
and then build it good to me so as to save a lot of money: D

Where can I find the wiring diagram
which is latest Firmware Arduino
Okay Arduino 2009 what changes between the versions?

I'm seeing if you can make a single-sided PCB so easier to do at home

I'm already doing something
These pictures of the things that I bought'll update as
I go along with the work

https://plus.google.com/photos/117096022619927896725/albums/5880907249874127313?banner=pwa

In Italiano per i connazzionali 
Interessante vi leggo dall' Italia
Scusate se è scritto male uso Google Traduttore

Anche a me piace il Brauimaster ma e troppo costoso
e quindi buono costruirlo da me cosi da risparmiare molti soldi 

Dove trovo lo schema elettrico
quale è ultima versione del Firmware Arduino
Va bene Arduino 2009 cosa cambia tra le varie versioni ?

Sto vedendo se è possibile fare un PCB monofaccia cosi piu facile da fare a casa

Sto già realizzando qualcosa
Queste le foto delle cose che ho comprato aggiornero man mano
che vado avanti con i Lavori

https://plus.google.com/photos/117096022619927896725/albums/5880907249874127313?banner=pwa


----------



## saviothecnic

A friend was able to do the routing single-sided
so as to portelro do easily at home.

You tell me what is latest version of the firmware so I try Barduino
Will need to change the pinout to use this PCB
Just tried that everything works am going to publish the files side Copper

https://plus.google.com/photos/117096022619927896725/albums/5880907249874127313/5884273152122924834?banner=pwa&hl=it&pid=588427315 2122924834&oid=117096022619927896725







This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 2401x1921.





In Italiano

Un Amico è riuscito a fare lo sbroglio a singola faccia cosi da portelro fare facilmente in casa.
Mi dite quale è ultima versione del Firmware Barduino cosi provo
Sara necessario modificare il PinOut Per usare questo PCB
Appena provato che tutto funziona pubblichero il files lato Rame


----------



## djar007

Nice work savio. Looking good. The eeprom code is here . The arduino code is here . Credit needs to go to the people who created this. Matho and Bonj. And all the others on this forum who have helped develop it. If you are going to reuse it then you should remember to always credit them also. Regards David.


----------



## saviothecnic

djar007 said:


> Nice work savio.
> Credit needs to go to the people who created this. Matho and Bonj.


I want to help everyone trying to change with the help of a friend of Italian forum
a single-sided PCB so that everyone can easily make at home
without going outside laboratory.
Sorry if I write bad use Google Translator
I've already put in the Copper Matho
Why it is right to remember who gave birth to the project: D





Application for Matho from this link https://github.com/mathoaus/braumiser-controller










f I compile error screen like normal?
In Italiano
Io voglio aiutare tutti cercando modificare con aiuto di amico di forum Italiano
un PCB singola faccia in modo che tutti potere fare facilmente a casa
senza andare da laboratorio esterno.
Scusate se scrivo male uso Google Traduttore
Ho gia messo nel Rame Matho
Perche è giusto che si ricorda chi ha partorito il progetto 

Domanda per Matho da questo Link https://github.com/mathoaus/braumiser-controller

Se compilo ho errore come in schermata è normale ?


----------



## djar007

Love it. And the fifty cent coin is a god touch. Look forward to seeing your updates.


----------



## saviothecnic

matho said:


> https://github.com/mathoaus/braumiser-controller


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/errorecompilazione.jpg/

Excuse me are not practical Arduino understand more on 'electronics: D

I realized that I have a compile error because I miss the libraries used
Where can I find the libraries so as to compile without errors?


----------



## matho

matho said:


> To compile the code additional libraries will need to be installed, the instructions on how to install libraries are found HERE
> and the libraries are the 'onewire' library found HERE and
> the PIDV1 library found HERE
> 
> once they are installed you should be able to compile the code with out errors
> 
> cheers steve


----------



## saviothecnic

matho said:


> once they are installed you should be able to compile the code with out errors
> 
> cheers steve



Thanks Matho

Now place the test result of yesterday's PCB modified
I wanted to ask one thing has not even possible and would like to improve excellent program you have done by adding an SD card reader writer for arduino you could write a log of the temperature read and PWM sent so at the end of SD cooked put the PC and check if everything went as prescription
And if you want even load the recipe from SD I can give you a hand in the test and pcb to add the SD reader but I do not know anything in programming arduino.

In Italiano

Grazie Matho

Adesso posto il risultato della prova di ieri del PCB modificato
Volevo chiederti solo una cosa mica è possibile ed avresti voglia di migliorare ottimo programma che hai fatto aggiungendo un lettore scrittore SD per arduino potresti scrivere un Log della temperatura letta e PWM inviato cosi a fine cotta mettere SD del PC e verificare se tutto è andato come ricetta
E volendo anche caricare la ricetta da SD io posso darti una mano nella parte test e pcb per aggiungere il lettore SD ma non so niente nella programmazione arduino.

Well yesterday I had two minutes to try to affect what was on paper: D

from this

Bene ieri ho avuto due minuti per provare ad incidere quanto era su carta 

Da questo





Now place across the stage as you can see in every test I had to do three good to have one but you will know the beginning is always so: D

Adesso posto tutta la fase come si vede in ogni test ne ho dovuto fare tre per averne uno Buono ma si sa al inizio è sempre cosi


----------



## saviothecnic

saviothecnic said:


> Thanks Matho
> 
> Now place the test result of yesterday's PCB modified
> I wanted to ask one thing has not even possible and would like to improve excellent program you have done by adding an SD card reader writer for arduino you could write a log of the temperature read and PWM sent so at the end of SD cooked put the PC and check if everything went as prescription
> And if you want even load the recipe from SD I can give you a hand in the test and pcb to add the SD reader but I do not know anything in programming arduino.


Today I went forward a little more: D

Oggi sono andato un altro po avanti 

Here I am giving divided the pcb drilled sanded and cleaned with acetone
Qui do diviso il pcb forato carteggiato e pulito con acetone






First she slips on the contrary streep line and press with a piece of wood to bring out the nails flush with the plastic in order to put an LCD that goes from the high copper

Per prima cosa si infila al contrario la streep line e si preme con un pezzo di legno per far uscire i chiodini a raso della plastica per poter mettere LCD che va dal alto rame





Then you put this time the straight line where Streep is to be fixed Arduino 2009

Poi si mettono questa volta diritte le streep line dove va fissato Arduino 2009






Then with the help of a fold components are put all other components

Poi con aiuto di una piega componenti si mettono tutti gli altri componenti






Before welding you try to dry it well in Arduino 2009 he streep line mounted

Prima di saldare si prova a Secco che Arduino 2009 entra bene nell streep line montate





The same test is done for LCD

Stessa prova la si fa per LCD








I hope to have time and all the components inside so I will update you with a video of the final result: D

Spero d'avere tempo e tutti i componenti dentro cosi vi aggiornero anche con un video finale del risultato


----------



## saviothecnic

Well we're almost there

I am missing some component, but it seems to work
Just finished all the tests'll post some pictures in the meantime all the material


----------



## Moobrew

Anyone tried this with a rims?


----------



## saviothecnic

By filling in trying to translate in Italian I have these errors: (





Yesterday I started to make the panel I designed taking into account the pattern to make a plug for the classic electrical box 200x150

Ieri ho iniziato a fare il pannello ho disegnato lo schema tenendo conto di fare un tappo per la classica scatola elettrica 200x150





Then I gave it all to feed my homebuilt cnc obviously it: P

Poi ho dato tutto in pasto alla mia cnc ovviamente anche essa autocostruita 









The final result should be nearly this course is pitted or pasted on a sheet with the words and graphics if someone wants to do it well Come: D

Il risultato quasi finale dovrebbe essere questo ovviamente va pittato o incollato su un foglio con le scritte e grafica se qualcuno vuole farlo ben Venga 






Grazie


----------



## adryargument

saviothecnic said:


> <snip>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Grazie


Looks great, good to see the Braudruno going international


----------



## saviothecnic

adryargument said:


> Looks great, good to see the Braudruno going international


http://www.saviot.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=15:braduino-italy&catid=8&Itemid=101

It is much like getting in Italy and there was nothing like it
I hope I have helped contribute to this fabulous project
I hope you do not mind

In order not to lose track I put everything in a page on my site
when it relates to the change with single-sided PCB and Italian Menu

Matho Thanks for great program you've accomplished

I wanted to ask if you can use even bigger LCD
if I write in Italian does not enter into 16x2 LCD
and if you can add to programa support SD card reader writer
Log cooked to achieve the load and maybe recipes prepared
PC and written to the SD

Matho if you want then copy the images and files also on my website
to have a double copy if you're scared like me that sites
end host on the network can

In Italiano

Spero non dispiace

Per non perdere traccia ho messo tutto anche in una pagina sul mio sito
per quando riguarda la modifica con PCB Monofaccia e Menu Italiano

Grazie Matho per ottimo programma che hai realizzato

Volevo chiederti se è possibile usare anche LCD piu grande
se scrivo in Italiano non entra in LCD 16x2
e se puoi aggiungere al programa supporto lettore scrittore scheda SD
per realizzare Log della cotta e magari caricare ricette preparate
da PC e scritte sulla SD

Matho se vuoi poi copiare le immagini e files anche sul mio sito
per avere una doppia copia se hai paura come me che i siti
in rete possano scadere host


----------



## Danielxan

Good evening everyone, I'm the pcb designer.

A new release.
I had to remap some pins.

Two cards in one pcb Eurocard format 100x160 mm.
New LCD display 4 lines of 20 columns
Backlight on / off controlled by software
Connector for SD card on board.


----------



## lael

Danielxan said:


> Good evening everyone, I'm the pcb designer.
> 
> A new release.
> I had to remap some pins.
> 
> Two cards in one pcb Eurocard format 100x160 mm.
> New LCD display 4 lines of 20 columns
> Backlight on / off controlled by software
> Connector for SD card on board.


That is really cool! Are you planning on saving settings or reading beer.xml files from the SD card or something?


----------



## Danielxan

My level of programming is quite poor.
I guess now that the hardware is defined,
with the help of a programmer be able to do what you want


In any case there are still some changes to the pcb


----------



## saviothecnic

Danielxan said:


> My level of programming is quite poor.


I'm glad you wrote directly to you Daniel
and I thank you publicly for the availability that we're giving: D

Unfortunately from another forum

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/braumiser-my-braumeister-inspired-rig-299192/index7.html

I learn that matho have some serious family problems: (
which I hope will be resolved soon and then I do not think will give us a hand
but I hope that in this forum there are programmers Arduino
that can help us migliarare excellent job of matho did
adding support Reader Writer SD

Daniel is facnedo a great job and I'm willing to test this out
Short testero the new pcb and the new LCD 40x2 with translated menus Italian
so as to be able to publish a pcb monfocaccia easy to do at home
sorpatutto and tested: D

I hope in a few days to finish the mechanical part so as to test
all on a real batch of beer


----------



## Danielxan

Two versions of the same PCB,
One with the socket SD card and one with the connector for the external SD module.
If someone wants to test the master and I can post the list of components


----------



## djar007

That is a really cool board Daniel. I look forward to seeing what can be done in the future with this project. You guys spending the time developing this stuff and making it freely available to the community is the true spirit of open source and is admirable and very much appreciated.


----------



## saviothecnic

Video Test Menu Ita

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aX68t0n7v4A&feature=youtube_gdata_player


----------



## saviothecnic

Video Test Hardware​​http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l_tovlTta4&feature=youtu.be​


----------



## Danielxan

And the new latest release,

Support for new display 20x4.

Socket for SD card reader.

I2c connector for RTC and expansion.

Digital Pwm pin for heater.

After the tests will be issued the master.


----------



## RodrigoRicco

Hi, I´m new here, I´m from Brazil and as you guys probally know, we have lots of problems here to find good Brew Stuffs.

My question is, any one has a file with all the components that I have to buy to build here, I can also buy direclty from Jaycar or from u guys;

I need a shield and also a script that can be supported by 2 Pumps and 2 Heaters.... Is it possible? 

PLEASE I NEED HELP!!


----------



## Danielxan

This is the last variation, not yet tested.
The software is being developed, tested appeda all, will be issued.
For the two pumps and two heaters, as you can see at the moment we have exhausted the pins dell'arduino.


----------



## Edak

At this point you could change your design to utilise an I2C LCD, which only uses 2 analog pins, leaves the rest for other in/outputs.


----------



## Dxxxx

Hello everyone, I've just put together one of these controllers, and it's almost working. I can control the pump and element and menu system works fine. The temperature only reads 85 degrees though, sometimes it will briefly show 127.75 degrees. The sensor worked fine when I tested it with the completed shield, but before I connected the SSR, buttons etc. So now I'm just after any tips for what I should be looking for. I keep going over my wiring but can't seem to find the problem. I probably need to take a rest from it at the moment and look again later, but any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.


----------



## djar007

I am pretty certain that your wiring is incorrect. I am unable to give you a link until tommrow but it will default a temp of 85. Check the wiring is correct.


----------



## Dxxxx

Is it possibly the sensor is faulty? I've just tried connecting it to a new circuit on a breadboard, using the serial monitor I'm still getting 85 degrees.


----------



## Dxxxx

Apparently I have fixed it. Seems like it was a software issue, had to change ds.write(0x44,0); to ds.write(0x44,1);
Something to do with parasite power? Too tired.


----------



## matho

Dxxxx said:


> Apparently I have fixed it. Seems like it was a software issue, had to change ds.write(0x44,0); to ds.write(0x44,1);
> Something to do with parasite power? Too tired.


You only need to change that if you are running the sensor in parisite power mode. If your running the DS18B20 in powered mode (three wires)then the code is good. The code isn't designed to run in parisite mode anyway as it polls the sensor to see if the conversion is complete, you can't do that in parisite mode because the data line has to be held high until the conversion has taken place.


----------



## Dxxxx

Any idea why it's not working normally? I tested with the braudino shield on usb power as well as 12v, and without the shield using a breadboard. Tried 2 different arduinos.


----------



## djar007

There is two types of the sensor. You may have picked up the ds18b20 par. Which is the parasite version .


----------



## Dxxxx

I don't know if that's the case here. It was working fine when I first got it, even with the shield.


----------



## saviothecnic

In Italy we are going forward with the Test
Thanks to friends official forum arduino Italy we are seeing to add support for load Reader Writer SD Saving Recipe here a picture
of 'last test performed with modified PCB By DanielXan V11S soon as a final version of the PCB will be made ​​and published you plan to use LCD and connected RTC I2C seen in the few remaining free pins with Arduino Uno R3

In Italiano

In Italia stiamo andando avanti con i Test
Grazie ad amici forum ufficiale arduino Italia stiamo vedendo di aggiungere supporto Lettore Scrittore SD per Carico Salvataggio Ricetta qui una foto
dell' ultimo test eseguito con modifica PCB By DanielXan V11S presto una versione definitiva del PCB verrà fatta e pubblicata si pensa di usare LCD e RTC collegati in I2C visti i pochi pin liberi rimasti con Arduino Uno R3


----------



## djar007

are you in mebourne dxx, I have a spare arduino tested and working you ca borrow to troubleshoot if you like


----------



## Dxxxx

djar007 said:


> are you in mebourne dxx, I have a spare arduino tested and working you ca borrow to troubleshoot if you like


Nah, thanks for the offer, but I am well away from Melbourne. I've tried with 2 arduinos anyway. I've ordered another DS18B20 to test, so I'll see what happens. 
That being said, is there a particular reason I cannot use it in parasite mode? 
It seems to work so far, not that I've played with it much. Some quick testing with about 10l of water and 2400w element had a little bit of overshoot but I figure that's to be expected as I haven't changed the PID settings from whatever their default is.


----------



## QldKev

Currently I have the thing on a bench test, so the DS18B20 just has it's legs shoved into the 3 terminals. I have not connected up pump/heater/buttons. The code is matho's standard code (with the mandatory display name hack)

Should it read a correct temperature at this stage, all I get is the 85.00c

edit: The DS18B20 is not the one supplied with the kit, I don't have the normal kit one.


----------



## mattieharding

check your connections QldKev I bought 2 x DS18B20s off ebay and they worked fine. Although I think my kit was labelled wrong on the PCB I will check tonite and post a pic if you like


----------



## Dxxxx

QldKev said:


> Currently I have the thing on a bench test, so the DS18B20 just has it's legs shoved into the 3 terminals. I have not connected up pump/heater/buttons. The code is matho's standard code (with the mandatory display name hack)
> 
> Should it read a correct temperature at this stage, all I get is the 85.00c
> 
> edit: The DS18B20 is not the one supplied with the kit, I don't have the normal kit one.


When I first completed my shield, it read the temperature fine without the pump/heater/buttons, then when I finished the rest it started doing the 85 thing. As with matties, the pcb labels weren't in the right spots, so check against the PDF wiring diagram to make sure you have the sensor connected properly.


----------



## QldKev

mattieharding said:


> check your connections QldKev I bought 2 x DS18B20s off ebay and they worked fine. Although I think my kit was labelled wrong on the PCB I will check tonite and post a pic if you like



I've got it working. 

I think the ds18b20 must not have reverse polarity protection, I tried 2 new ones but both had been tried backwards. :unsure:

I pulled it out and shoved in another new one and it's working. Lucky they are only about $1 each.

edit:
Anyone using these probes?


----------



## breakbeer

I'm using that exact probe Kev, about 10 brews on it & can't fault it


----------



## QldKev

Got my buttons today and got them wired up. Just waiting on the SSR to turn up now. Fired it up to test it out, and probed the terminals to see what's happening.

I'm finding at the SSR output terminals with heat on, +12v as expected, but with heat off I get +5.8v ? Is this voltage normal leakage that will drop once the SSR is connected up or is it a case of "Houston we have a problem"


----------



## Danielxan

Tthe project has evolved into a new hw.
The fw has been rewritten almost completely
Supports SD card for import and export recipes
The system log.
Display I2C and RTC
Auxiliary outputs
Import recipes from BrewPlus
etc..
Will be released when ready

Maybe will have to migrate to another AVR because the flash of the Arduino is busy at 99.9%
Here, where we are developing the fw http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=176121.240


----------



## notung

I am so close to having photos to share of my system but wanted to get it all tested and working first. During the first fully wired up test tonight I think I made an error: The braudino controller started up and the default program began to run. The pump works but temp reading is over 4000c, indicating no/poor temp probe connection.

I paused the program and, not knowing how else to shut down, switched off at the point. After opening up the controller to check the temp probe connections I now get a blank display on the lcd, except for a top row full of white squares (nothing down the bottom row). Any ideas? I don't have the usb programming cable.


----------



## matho

Hey notung,

you are right about the temperature, just over 4000 degs means that the ds18b20 is not connected. Turning it off should not damage the sheild or the arduino, I would check to see if the arduino is plugged into the sheild correctly and all the pins are in their right place and I would check the contrast pot as well. If you can post a picture of the sheild then I can see if there has been any mistakes made in putting it together. If all else fails then you can post it back to me and I will check it out for you.

cheers steve


----------



## notung

Thanks matho for the advice. I'll re-check the connections on the bonjuino / shield tonight and take some pictures at the same time. I actually soldered the bonjuino down into the headers because the connection wasn't firm. I'm hoping I don't live to regret this. Let you know how I go. Thanks again.


----------



## saviothecnic

notung said:


> I don't have the usb programming cable.


Usually on the Arduino Uno R3 cable to program is a commercially available USB cable Used for printer cables are not special but common USB cables
Good idea to send photos to see if everything is connected.


----------



## saviothecnic

Danielxan said:


> Public the final version of the PCB redesigned in a single layer.
> It requires a redefinition of the pin-ot to work.


Pin-Out V14


Code:


// define pinout
// sensor and lcd
OneWire ds(8);
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);

// push buttons
const char Button_prev = A0;
const char Button_nxt = A1;
const char Button_up = A2;
const char Button_dn = A3;

// outputs
const int Pump = 9;
const int Buzz = 10;
const int Heat = 11;


----------



## saviothecnic

Danielxan said:


> Revision with open collector outputs, and software controlled backlight.


Pin Out V15

// define pinout
// sensor and lcd
OneWire ds(12);
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);

// push buttons
const char Button_prev = A0;
const char Button_nxt = A1;
const char Button_up = A2;
const char Button_dn = A3;

// outputs
const int Pump = 9;
const int Buzz = 10;
const int Heat = 11;
// Pin Illuminazione LCD 8




In Allegato Menu ITA 

View attachment BrauduinoItaly2v2FirmwarePCB_DanielXan.zip


----------



## notung

notung said:


> Thanks matho for the advice. I'll re-check the connections on the bonjuino / shield tonight and take some pictures at the same time. I actually soldered the bonjuino down into the headers because the connection wasn't firm. I'm hoping I don't live to regret this. Let you know how I go. Thanks again.


Here was the cause of the problem I described with the display blank except for a top row full of squares. The chip had come loose out from the bonjuino.
Securing that back in there allowed the controller to boot normally again.







I'm still troubleshooting the cause of temp sensor error. It is the MB-SM17116 device which came with a ds18b20 already mounted into the stainless probe. I'm hoping the 4095degC reading is a result of one or two bad solders on the PCB, rather than a dud device. I have re-made all connections between MB-SM17116 and the screw terminals on the shield. I'll post some close ups of the bonjuino and shield next.


----------



## notung

Here are some photos of the braumiser shield as I've put it together. This has been my first electronics project, which may be obvious looking at the workmanship but I am nevertheless very happy so far. Except I have this pesky issue with the temp sensor connection. I have gone over all the wiring between the MB-SM17116 probe fitting and the screw terminals on the shield very thoroughly so I'd be surprised if that were the problem.

Can anyone spot a bad solder or something else which could be causing a problem for the temp sensor? Failing that I suppose that the DS12B80 device could be stuffed or improperly hooked up by the manufacturer...?

Thanks everyone for the advice and inspiration!





Brew moth controller front, with lcd displaying temp reading of 4095degC. Fascia panel printed by Superoo. Thanks again mate, I love it.




Braumiser shield with bonjuino.




Here is the shield with the bonjuino removed. Note that this is an old photo of the wiring to temp sensor screw terminals. The photo above shows the updated wiring with insulation from 3 core cable being wired into the + terminal as well.




Top of shield visible, including lcd.




Bottom of shield


----------



## MastersBrewery

I could be wrong here, I was looking at the gallery earlier. The bottom picture bottom of the board second from the left looks in that shot like it may be a cold joint, check and see if any others look similar.


----------



## Sam England

Good looking job Notung. I have the same temp pop up intermittently on my rig and if I drop it into manual mode and then out again it fixes the problem. It's only ever on start up and I have no idea why this fixes the problem. I use the sureelectonics pre-made probe, but that shouldn't matter either.
Cheers,
BB


----------



## breakbeer

I get the same temp display of 4095deg but only if the temp probe is not connected to the box. As soon as I plug it in the screen displays the correct temp


----------



## notung

MastersBrewery said:


> I could be wrong here, I was looking at the gallery earlier. The bottom picture bottom of the board second from the left looks in that shot like it may be a cold joint, check and see if any others look similar.


Ooh thanks for the reply. I will check that out and report back!



Blue Baggers said:


> Good looking job Notung. I have the same temp pop up intermittently on my rig and if I drop it into manual mode and then out again it fixes the problem. It's only ever on start up and I have no idea why this fixes the problem. I use the sureelectonics pre-made probe, but that shouldn't matter either.
> Cheers,
> BB


Interesting... I must say I haven't tried popping it into manual mode at all. If it's as simple as that... :kooi:



breakbeer said:


> I get the same temp display of 4095deg but only if the temp probe is not connected to the box. As soon as I plug it in the screen displays the correct temp


My wiring definitely all seems connected but have going over the joins painstakingly to make sure.


----------



## matho

that 3rd photo is that the temp probe directly wired to the terminal? If it is then you might have reversed the polarity on the MB-SM17116, I found the data sheet and it says the brown or red is GND, green or blue is data and yellow or gray is VCC. everything else looks fine. If you have the original DS18b20 that came with the kit then wire it in to the terminal with the flat part of the ds18b20 facing up.

cheers steve


----------



## matho

like this




cheers steve


----------



## djar007

As matho said. It's the way it's wired in. Some of those Solder joints look like they may be cold jointed . but if you tested for continuity then all good. Regards dave.


----------



## notung

matho said:


> that 3rd photo is that the temp probe directly wired to the terminal? If it is then you might have reversed the polarity on the MB-SM17116, I found the data sheet and it says the brown or red is GND, green or blue is data and yellow or gray is VCC. everything else looks fine. If you have the original DS18b20 that came with the kit then wire it in to the terminal with the flat part of the ds18b20 facing up.
> 
> cheers steve


That was it, thanks for picking it up. I had the black wire & insulation (GND) wired into + and the red wire (VCC) connected to -. They were meant to be the other way round! Now hooked up correctly I get a temp reading of 85 degrees, which indicated sensor is connected but improperly wired up. Sounds like this may be due to me reversing the polarity and stuffing the ds18b20 device. I assume it's buggered. :blush:



QldKev said:


> I've got it working.
> 
> I think the ds18b20 must not have reverse polarity protection, I tried 2 new ones but both had been tried backwards. :unsure:
> 
> I pulled it out and shoved in another new one and it's working. Lucky they are only about $1 each.
> 
> edit:
> Anyone using these probes?


I am using one of those probes and seem to have also reversed the polarity on mine. I've got a spare little ds18b20 from the braumiser kit. I'll try ripping/cutting the bricked one out from the probe and wire the replacement up. If that fails I'll just buy a replacement probe for ~$10.


----------



## wb2102

Hi Guy's,

I've been building my controller for a number on months now with my limited time, and for the most part it is working fantastically.
Thank you to Steve for his time an efforts that have gone into the design, testing, and development of these controllers. Its a serious amount of work and without this I may have only settled for BIAB or gone down the Auberins PID path with something nowhere near as good as the Brauduino. My controller will eventually automate a Crown urn as a recirculating BIAB rig (Still working on the recirculating part) when I can sort though this final problem.

However I have an issue with mine on the pump circuit which is causing the brown pump to run continually. Currently I've got a PC fan rigged up to the output right now to see what is happening and it continually has a 12V supply to it.
When I power the unit up I can hear a click from the 12V Relay( I'm using an Omron G5SB-14) and from there it stay's open and running. I've checked the wiring diagram's and found that there are 2 different version for brown pump wiring into the shield. One in the manual and the other was on a post that Steve did originally. Both yield the same result for me. Doesn't matter if it's in Manual Mode or Auto mode. I've even dumped a different sketch into the Arduino to check if something was triggering the pump to run in the code... No difference. My gut tells me that it's something either in the 12V relay circuit or my wiring up which is causing it to continually run, but I can see it for the life of me. Have gone through the wiring with my multi meter but it all checks out as it should from the way I'm reading it.

My Shield is a V2.0 (No RF suppressor on this version of shield).
Only other difference in mine is that I'm running a 20X4 LCD which has the same pin out as the 16X2, and works perfectly so I'm thinking it's unlikely to be this.

If anyone has any thoughts/ suggestions on what I might have stuffed up, it would be appreciated.

Cheers

Warren


----------



## djar007

So it only starts once the relay kicks it on? Or is it on all the time?


----------



## matho

it sounds like the transistor is around the wrong way, the original 2n2222a have different pin outs and have caused a few headaches. It is fairly tricky to remove the transistors without damaging the board, I smash the black part and remove one leg at a time. If you want to post it to me I can fix it for you, just PM me.

cheers steve


----------



## wb2102

It's on all the time. As soon as I power up the unit... Click and away it goes.


----------



## wb2102

Hi Steve,

The original 2n2222a's got me because the buzzer was continually sounding continually, and I figured out that and changed to the BC547's. I stuffed a pad doing the removal due to lack of practice an a little impatience but bridged it to the resistor after studying the circuit board layout. Been a long time since my TAFE day's doing these things.

The Pump LED Flicks on and off in both modes so I think the transistor is working. :unsure:

Anything else it could be?


----------



## Danielxan

I removed the old pcb, which have been replaced.
PCBs with name Brauduino support the original firmware. 







View attachment Brauduino.zip


View attachment Brauduino-OC.zip


----------



## notung

notung said:


> That was it, thanks for picking it up. I had the black wire & insulation (GND) wired into + and the red wire (VCC) connected to -. They were meant to be the other way round! Now hooked up correctly I get a temp reading of 85 degrees, which indicated sensor is connected but improperly wired up. Sounds like this may be due to me reversing the polarity and stuffing the ds18b20 device. I assume it's buggered. :blush:
> 
> I am using one of those probes and seem to have also reversed the polarity on mine. I've got a spare little ds18b20 from the braumiser kit. I'll try ripping/cutting the bricked one out from the probe and wire the replacement up. If that fails I'll just buy a replacement probe for ~$10.


Spare ds18b20 all wired in correctly now, just like in Matho's guide. It's been inserted into the temp probe.



Warren Bradford said:


> It's on all the time. As soon as I power up the unit... Click and away it goes.


I have a similar issue but instead of the pump firing up straight away, for me it is the element. It is on from the moment power goes through the controller and won't stop after reaching temperature. It is on even when red heating LED is out. I am of course really happy to know the element works!



matho said:


> it sounds like the transistor is around the wrong way, the original 2n2222a have different pin outs and have caused a few headaches. It is fairly tricky to remove the transistors without damaging the board, I smash the black part and remove one leg at a time. If you want to post it to me I can fix it for you, just PM me.
> 
> cheers steve


Could I have a similar transistor issue? Thanks everyone.


----------



## matho

notung said:


> Spare ds18b20 all wired in correctly now, just like in Matho's guide. It's been inserted into the temp probe.
> 
> I have a similar issue but instead of the pump firing up straight away, for me it is the element. It is on from the moment power goes through the controller and won't stop after reaching temperature. It is on even when red heating LED is out. I am of course really happy to know the element works!
> 
> Could I have a similar transistor issue? Thanks everyone.


Hey notung,

the transistors in the kit I sent you had the right pin out but it could be a dud one, I'll PM you about fixing the sheild.

I had a problem with a sheild the other day, the contrast pot was pushed down and the metal base was making contact with one of the legs causing the 5v to be shorted to earth. This fault fried the arduino's 5v reg but I put the chip into another board with a working 5v reg but some of the i/o's on the chip had low resistance to earth and the arduino didn't operate correctly so the chip is dead. The atmega seems to be a little bit sensitve to stuff like that.


----------



## Danielxan

Revision 2 of PCBs Birraduino, to solve a serious problem due to the SPI libraries, that prevent the full use of the D10 as an output pin instead of SS.
Adding polarity selection BackLigjt 

View attachment Birraduino-AIO-2.zip












View attachment Birraduino-UNO-2.zip


----------



## seasickjohnny

Hi,

I am close to finishing my Braumeister clone, I only have electronics left.

50 l with same specs as the BM 20. Will post pictures soon.

I have tried to route a Brauduino pcb with my taig-cnc router. The double sided pcb is not suitable for my router because the leads are to small and it's hard to get the coordinates right when turning the pcb up side down. (I have already failed with 6 pcbs...)

The single sided birraduino is easier to route but I need a eagle-file or a gerberfile, a dwg file is also good.

I have not fully understood the diffrences between the birraduino and the brauduino (exept the SD-card) Can you please explain?

I already made a DWG-file of the last Birraduino bmp (imported to archicad and then traced all...) - can I still use that PCB when not using SD-card?
I also need to know the resistans of the R-BL when suply voltage is 12 v.

/ Johan


----------



## Danielxan

The Birraduino are designed to work in conjunction with the firmware written by Niki77 forum arduino. http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=176121.0

Currently the firmware is still in beta.
SVN reposiroty
user : guest
password : guest
http://niki77.dyndns.org/svn/BrauDuino_ITA/trunk/

In addition to all the features of brauduino has:
Loading and saving recipes in sd.
Saving log file in sd.
Import recipes from BrewPlus from PC serial port via the Gateway program.
Auxiliary output for future use.
New management with language definition files.
And more.328 allowing the flash is occupied 99%

The resistance R-BL, depends on the display should be calculated R-BL = (5v-backlight supply voltage) / Backlight current
Backlight supply voltage and current depend on the display.
Please note that the BirraDuino-AIO is powered by 5Vdc
Council to affect the Rev.2 even if it is not used the SD because the problem sil pin D10 also comes by not using the sd-card


----------



## cube300

hi all

I need help!

I want make a copy of "TheBraumiser" did for Matho but i'm not expert in electronics issues.
My question is, in the zip file added in the post are all documents to make it?
the program to save in the pic is totally funcional, is the final version.

I won't use arduino version because I have not experience before, and for that i prefer to make "the braumiser"

Anyway, please all informacion will be well recieved, I need the last version that are running properly

best regards


----------



## blotto

Finally I have done some more work on my controller and I managed to get it all lit up last night, I still have to mount my LEDs and put the sticker on the front and lots of other stuff but I was just stoked to see it working 

I got the heater and pump outputs working in manual, I set the temp to 35 C and got it switching the heater output when I held the temp probe then cooled it down.


----------



## djar007

Looking great. I am using mine today in manual mode just for fun. I love it. Greatest addition to my brewery so far.


----------



## blotto

Thanks djar007. 

I cant wait to get it completed! I have almost everything I need for the Braumiser as well, I just need to make some filter plates and I'll be laughing!


----------



## QldKev

I went to a brew day up here and brewed a beer with my little 1V yesterday. The brewers loved matho's controller. Both the other brewers are seriously looking at long terms similar setups.


----------



## joshF

Damn you wort and your perfectly symmetrical buttons. Seriously, looks awesome man, good job. Can't wait to get mine going


----------



## blotto

joshF said:


> Damn you wort and your perfectly symmetrical buttons. Seriously, looks awesome man, good job. Can't wait to get mine going


Haha thanks Josh!

Tho you will notice my cuts to make the screen hole leave a little to be desired! I'm hoping the sticker hides a bit of that


----------



## saviothecnic

seasickjohnny said:


> I have tried to route a Brauduino pcb with my taig-cnc router. The double sided pcb is not suitable for my router because the leads are to small and it's hard to get the coordinates right when turning the pcb up side down. (I have already failed with 6 pcbs...)


Interesting work you've done

Places the cad files you've accomplished

I also have a CNC

You did a cad file or path gcode only x drilling?

I prefer to make having a cnc pcb etching
with at most only cnc cutting and drilling

brauduino.zip reworking is to have single sided pcb
controller brauduino classic

birraduino use the version 2 R2
is good for use with alternative firmware birraduino but is still in test


----------



## elpiratilla

Hello, saviothecnic can tell me the value of these resistors.
greetings and thanks.


----------



## Danielxan

As you read the color code, 0 ohm, are the bridges


----------



## elpiratilla

Danielxan said:


> As you read the color code, 0 ohm, are the bridges


Thank you very much, I just saw that you are the creator of this pcb.
Greetings.


----------



## matho

So now that there is a fair number of brauduino's out there ( thanks lael) I would like brewers feed back on the code for the brauduino. If there is a common change requested then I might be able to improve it. I hope the controllers are going well.

cheers steve


----------



## elpiratilla

matho said:


> So now that there is a fair number of brauduino's out there ( thanks lael) I would like brewers feed back on the code for the brauduino. If there is a common change requested then I might be able to improve it. I hope the controllers are going well.
> 
> cheers steve


So Spain will get the braduino, and I've asked a kit to Lael and so kindly send me the hassle is having.

Thank you for your development matho and Share.
And Lael for making the effort to send it to me.
Greetings.


----------



## djar007

I fi d it is producing perfect brews for me every time. Had a fee dramas with the temp probe but it wasn't to do with the module or the code. Love the ease of programing for different mashes and hop additions. Would like the addition of pump on and off during auto mode just to cycle the grain bed a little more manually. I know I could just pause the mash. But the counter stops.


----------



## QldKev

matho said:


> So now that there is a fair number of brauduino's out there ( thanks lael) I would like brewers feed back on the code for the brauduino. If there is a common change requested then I might be able to improve it. I hope the controllers are going well.
> 
> cheers steve



I've put my wish list here

edit: Though it may be better kept in this thread

Steve, I find it a great bit of kit and makes brewing easy. I love how easy the interface is compared to my Auber programmable pid.

*Controller*
Ability to install a louder alarm. I cannot hear mine from my office when brewing. Also with a loud alarm, a volume knob/pot would be great so I could turn it down if I'm in the area.
A wifi / network enabled version, that you can log onto from the network and monitor the progress.
Maybe a 20 x 4 display.

*Software*
Have a constant declared for _BoilStartTemp_ (95c is a bit cool for me, I use 98c)
Have a constant declared for _MaxPumpTemp_ (ie when to stop the pump, I run a Kaixin and don't take it past 80c)
Have a _pause_pump_ function triggered by _Button_next_. As per _pause_stage_ but pump only.
Do the CRC check on the temperature read


----------



## lael

Steve - thank you - the system is amazing! An absolute gem to brew on.

Ideas for code improvements - I've thought of a few more substantial changes that would be pure awesome  - touch screens, auto hopping, wireless mash schedule delivery from a smartphone app... not necessarily

+1 to djar's idea - I was thinking this the other day when I was going through mashing.

Here is some brainstorming on other ideas:
- option for countdown to start (already available) - in auto setup could ask - set a countdown? y/n and then set amt in mins.
- to automatically switch to manual mode at the end of the cycle - but I like this cause I use the pump to whirlpool, I'm not sure if it would be a common desire.
- show a count down during the pump break
- make temp ranges 'accelerate' when changing - eg: if it has been held for 2 seconds, start jumping by 0.5C, if 4 seconds, start jumping 1C
- numbers cycle through ie - if you hit the upper range, it goes to zero and vice versa (good for when you want to get to 100 and temp is currently 35 or so)

- store stats about the system: eg: for last auto brew: ramp rates/times from stage to stage, total brew time from start to end of boil.

I've been thinking about using it for other things as well: 
- a sous vide mode - can set temp, has a pump break every 15 mins, but otherwise pump stays on - same as manual, can hit the pump button to turn it off/on manually. No timer.
- apple cider pasteurisation - idea came from http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/. I figure it would be safer in the brau and can put a lid on it and have it set to a precise temp.

So - would either be a set temp for a set number of mins and then beeps at you to remove the cider, then push the button to start the timer for the next batch. or... this is more interesting... not sure if it is possible - but was thinking have the brau get to temp, swap the probe for one that goes inside an unsealed bottle full of water at the same initial temp as those being pasteurised, placed in with the batch being pasteurised, and then have it beep completion when it hits the required/targeted pasteurisation temp.

ok - those are some ideas


----------



## MastersBrewery

I know most of these systems have been setup for single batches or smaller, the problem with going to larger volumes being implementing a second element solely for the boil, as there are spare pins available I take it this would not be too hard to implement in software.


----------



## Sam England

@ Lael - great idea with the cider. I'm already using the unit as a sous vide, but hadn't thought about bottling early, allow to carb and then pasteurising. Also agree with the quick temp adjust based on button hold time.

@ MastersBrewery - I was going to do exactly the same thing for partigyle or sequential brewing, but ended up going down the path of a simpler unit dedicated to sous vide and the lower gravity gyle. This one is a 10A system only so I don't have to run it outside if I'm sous viding. I actually plan to lift the malt pipe from one unit to the other on brew day to circulate my sparge water through the mash with the pump. I haven't cut the bottom out of my pot like the braumeister which allows me to do this.

@ Matho - I'm not sure if you've put the fix in the final code or not yet, but I still get the odd high temp (can't remember the temp 80 or 90 ish degrees??) that starts the timer on the next mash step before it's actually reached temp. I've just been slack in updating the code myself as I've got Win8 at home which doesn't talk to Arduino yet.
Agree with QldKev about adding the extra variables to the setup menu. I'm always adjusting up to 100deg on my rig.

No real deal breakers and the repeatability of my beer has improved 10 fold. Definitely worth the time and effort building one of these hence why I've got another two on the way from Lael to go with the three I bought from Matho for mates rigs. Thanks again for your efforts Matho.

Cheers,
BB


----------



## lael

Blue Baggers said:


> . I actually plan to lift the malt pipe from one unit to the other on brew day to circulate my sparge water through the mash with the pump. I haven't cut the bottom out of my pot like the braumeister which allows me to do this.


So you are running two units at the same time?

@ masters - I just upgraded mine to 50L and use an OTS element for the boil - no temp control required... which I would strongly recommend as simple and effective. I think I read about someone securing theirs to the side of the pot somehow during their boil, which i need to look into.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/#entry1088612


----------



## Sam England

Lael, yeah I use one for a HLT to get sparge water to temp while the other one is mashing. I then lift the malt pipe, let it drain and then transfer it across to the "sparge meister'' for a recirculated sparge while the main pot is coming to the boil. I then pump from one to the other for a full volume boil. An extra pot to wash out but it saves a bit of time and seems to be helping with efficiency. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to do parti-gyle brews with the extended malt pipe by making a high SG first gyle, transfer to the second to do a lower SG second brew with a different hopping regime. According to some of the online calculators around this should be possible without adding any extra grain, but I could always add extra grain and repeat the mash in the second unit if required. My brewing time is limited with three rug rats, so any time I can save on brew day (or brew night after work) is a bonus.
Cheers,
BB


----------



## shmang

Blue Baggers said:


> @ Matho - I'm not sure if you've put the fix in the final code or not yet, but I still get the odd high temp (can't remember the temp 80 or 90 ish degrees??) that starts the timer on the next mash step before it's actually reached temp. I've just been slack in updating the code myself as I've got Win8 at home which doesn't talk to Arduino yet.
> 
> Cheers,
> BB


 :icon_offtopic:
I'm running Windows 8 and have no issues with programming or serial comms with arduino

Edit: Correct spelling helps


----------



## Sam England

shmang said:


> :icon_offtopic:
> I'm running Windows 8 and have no issues with programming or serial comms with arduino


Still OT!!
Any tips?? Every forum I've read, some have got it to work and others (like me) do the same thing and struggle. Even the Arduino site doesn't recommend Win8 yet. At the moment it's only a minor issue that I can work around by pausing and using the manual mode and then going back to auto once the temps are reached. I am also happy to admit that my IT skills fall somewhere between adequate and knowing enough to be dangerous which is probably my issue. Tempted to install a second OS but that's sounding like work after a few too many brews tonight. I'm building two more in the next few weeks so I'll either use a mates PC with XP to upload or I'll give Win8 another crack and waste a few more hours of my life!!.


----------



## lael

Sorry, I don't know how to fix the arduino issue. But, sounds like you need to post photos of your rigs  

Is one of >10amp?


----------



## Sam England

Lael, some old photos of the 3kW unit are in my profile gallery, but I hadn't built the second rig at that point. The second unit only has a 2kW element in it so I can run it inside as a sous vide. The control box is built into the trolley for the main unit and the secondary unit is in a portable box.


----------



## lael

Hey Blue - I do know your rig!  Still don't understand how your malt pipe extension works lol.


----------



## Sam England

Lael, it's just a second bigW pot pushed inside the first to pick up about an extra 100mm of malt pipe height. I think I can get just under 10kg in there, but haven't tried or had the need yet to max it out. The bottom of the extension is cut totally off probably in a similar way to the braumeister clone versions. I use the same bolt holes that support my top plate in the short malt pipe to bolt the extension to it. The extension is actually really handy on my setup to use as a funnel/guide for the malt during mash in as it brings the top edge above the top of the pot.
Cheers,
BB


----------



## lael

Ahhhhhh... All makes sense now! Actually going to pick up a pot now to extend my malt pipe too. Can't wait! Should allow some nice high gravity beers


----------



## MastersBrewery

lael said:


> Ahhhhhh... All makes sense now! Actually going to pick up a pot now to extend my malt pipe too. Can't wait! Should allow some nice high gravity beers


so to get this right your going to extend the big malt pipe right


----------



## shmang

Blue Baggers said:


> Still OT!!
> Any tips?? Every forum I've read, some have got it to work and others (like me) do the same thing and struggle. Even the Arduino site doesn't recommend Win8 yet. At the moment it's only a minor issue that I can work around by pausing and using the manual mode and then going back to auto once the temps are reached. I am also happy to admit that my IT skills fall somewhere between adequate and knowing enough to be dangerous which is probably my issue. Tempted to install a second OS but that's sounding like work after a few too many brews tonight. I'm building two more in the next few weeks so I'll either use a mates PC with XP to upload or I'll give Win8 another crack and waste a few more hours of my life!!.


I didn't do anything fancy mate.
Downloaded version 1.0.5, saved it in program files (x86). Put a shortcut on the desktop and off it went.
It is worth replacing the rxtxSerial.dll file. It causes issues with opening the software and menu's etc.
Here is the updated RxTx file


----------



## lael

Yeah  I need to check the spreadsheet, but 10.8kg was stretching it, and I want to be able to do 1.070 and higher, or at least 1.050 and increase the fluidity. At some point though the volume of water required for the malt pipe will be more than the pot can actually hold during a pump rest ( cause the grain displaces a fair amount of fluid). I'll work it out before I start cutting  

The pots seem to have straight sides, so the plan is to cut off the bottom of the new one and slide/force it in the top of the old one with some bolts to hold it together. Friction should seal it. 

Anyone know how far from the edge of the pot the hole/bolt needs to be to be structurally sound? It needs to be able to take the weight of appx. 16kg of grain + water


----------



## Sam England

Cheers for the tip Shmang. I'll see if that helps fix the problem.

Lael, you'll be surprised at the taper on the pots. A pot in a pot only gets you an extra 100mm with them pushed together. I've bolted through in four places with 6mm bolts and washers inside and out and it easily lifts the full pipe. I think mine are about 20mm down from the top rim, but that was only chosen based on the bolt heads supporting the top plate when mashing. One of my mates rigs uses the same malt pipe setup as me and I believe he's put a strip of silicone map around the top pot before pushing it into the bottom one. I think he picked up closer to 200mm this way. I was always a bit concerned about the depth of the grain bed, but I don't think he's had any major efficiency drops if he's making a standard gravity beer and still holds some water back for sparging. He's using one of the Craftbrewer 70L pots as his outer vessel so he can do double batches.


----------



## breakbeer

+ 1 for the Sous Vide idea

I should probably update my code to the latest version as most of the ideas I'd put forward have already been addressed

Edit: I'd also like to Thank Steve for putting this out there & for all the help he's given me & others to get them working.
The Brauduino is my favourite bit of brewing equipment, absolutely love it. Quite a few brewers have seen mine in operation & the next day bought the kit


----------



## Edak

Glenn, 
When are you going to come see my bad boy in action? I brewed a dunkelweizen today (I called it Schlam Dunkel) and I hit 83.9 mash efficiency and 76.8 overall, so it's going rather well I'd say... Also managed to give the whole back deck and rails a coat of new paint too, so it's very much hands off and worry free at the moment...


----------



## QldKev

QldKev said:


> I've put my wish list here
> 
> edit: Though it may be better kept in this thread
> 
> Steve, I find it a great bit of kit and makes brewing easy. I love how easy the interface is compared to my Auber programmable pid.
> 
> *Controller*
> Ability to install a louder alarm. I cannot hear mine from my office when brewing. Also with a loud alarm, a volume knob/pot would be great so I could turn it down if I'm in the area.
> A wifi / network enabled version, that you can log onto from the network and monitor the progress.
> Maybe a 20 x 4 display.
> 
> *Software*
> Have a constant declared for _BoilStartTemp_ (95c is a bit cool for me, I use 98c)
> Have a constant declared for _MaxPumpTemp_ (ie when to stop the pump, I run a Kaixin and don't take it past 80c)
> Have a _pause_pump_ function triggered by _Button_next_. As per _pause_stage_ but pump only.
> Do the CRC check on the temperature read


Just to add to above, it would be nice if the controller held the temperature when the strike water is ready "add grain" and also when you get to mash out and it says to "remove grain".


----------



## breakbeer

Edak said:


> Glenn,
> When are you going to come see my bad boy in action? I brewed a dunkelweizen today (I called it Schlam Dunkel) and I hit 83.9 mash efficiency and 76.8 overall, so it's going rather well I'd say... Also managed to give the whole back deck and rails a coat of new paint too, so it's very much hands off and worry free at the moment...


Might be a while yet mate. I have a 'junior brewing assistant' due in 3 weeks & I'm waiting on a new pump to arrive so I can brew like a man posessed before he arrives


----------



## MastersBrewery

Edak'
seems your providing some more inspiration/motivation to those of us who have either been a little lazy or short of fortitude, I assure you; when the minister of everything ( that includes finance gentlemen) approves final purchases, I'm with ya!!! And I was one of the first to be be graced with one of matho''s awesome controller packages and I've watched every post since. I sdo want an easy brew day ... the dog and the lad only have so much attention span


----------



## grimb

Hy guys, where I can find the Brauduino PCB V2.0. shield?


----------



## Edak

MB, 

It's a great feeling when you can have confidence in your system, I hope that you enjoy your system (upon approval of course) as much as I enjoy my system.

Grimb, it's in this thread, just search for it or scroll back a few pages.


----------



## matho

OK I have been playing with the braumiser last night and used this spreadsheet to get my PID settings right and I thought I would share it.

Just enter the volume and wattage of the element and then play with the PID setting until you get a good result.

A lot of the changes are easy to do and I'll address them later tonight, I want to put a couple of brews down and then start to make changes so expect changes to the code over the next couple of months.

View attachment brauduino PID.xls


cheers steve


----------



## matho

Oh also I have been running a march pump with the V2 board so I measured the pumps resistance, which was 30 ohms and then put a resistor (330 ohms) which is slightly great than 10 x the pumps resistance in series with a 0.047uF 250v metalized cap across the pump. I tried switching the pump on and off rapidly to cause the screen to scramble but I couldn't. I'll draw up the schematic later to explain it better.

cheers steve


----------



## djar007

Thanks very much matho for the spreadsheet. Have been looking for a few pointers on fine tuning the pid settings so this is perfect. Look forward to the schematic to upgrade the resistor too. Thinking about swapping from my pump to a Kaixin I have laying around here. Regards Dave.


----------



## matho

QldKev said:


> I've put my wish list here
> 
> edit: Though it may be better kept in this thread
> 
> Steve, I find it a great bit of kit and makes brewing easy. I love how easy the interface is compared to my Auber programmable pid.
> 
> *Controller*
> Ability to install a louder alarm. I cannot hear mine from my office when brewing. Also with a loud alarm, a volume knob/pot would be great so I could turn it down if I'm in the area.
> Not enough room inside the standard box but I'll look into a schematic for an external module.
> A wifi / network enabled version, that you can log onto from the network and monitor the progress.
> Had a though about adding bluetooth I'll look into it, all wifi modules use pins that are already in use.
> Maybe a 20 x 4 display.
> 
> *Software*
> Have a constant declared for _BoilStartTemp_ (95c is a bit cool for me, I use 98c)
> Have a constant declared for _MaxPumpTemp_ (ie when to stop the pump, I run a Kaixin and don't take it past 80c)
> Have a _pause_pump_ function triggered by _Button_next_. As per _pause_stage_ but pump only.
> Do the CRC check on the temperature read
> All of these are easy fixes.


djar, the pump control would be easy to put in and sounds like a good idea



lael said:


> Steve - thank you - the system is amazing! An absolute gem to brew on.
> 
> Ideas for code improvements - I've thought of a few more substantial changes that would be pure awesome  - touch screens, auto hopping, wireless mash schedule delivery from a smartphone app... not necessarily
> 
> A lot of time needed to do these
> 
> +1 to djar's idea - I was thinking this the other day when I was going through mashing.
> 
> Here is some brainstorming on other ideas:
> - option for countdown to start (already available) - in auto setup could ask - set a countdown? y/n and then set amt in mins.
> I can put that in
> - to automatically switch to manual mode at the end of the cycle - but I like this cause I use the pump to whirlpool, I'm not sure if it would be a common desire.
> Sounds like a custom thing but I'll look into it
> - show a count down during the pump break
> Pump break is set for a maxium of 2 min but will start if the temp falls too much so it would be hard to implement
> - make temp ranges 'accelerate' when changing - eg: if it has been held for 2 seconds, start jumping by 0.5C, if 4 seconds, start jumping 1C
> - numbers cycle through ie - if you hit the upper range, it goes to zero and vice versa (good for when you want to get to 100 and temp is currently 35 or so)
> 
> I like to add these changes so I'll work on them
> 
> - store stats about the system: eg: for last auto brew: ramp rates/times from stage to stage, total brew time from start to end of boil.
> Again sounds a bit custom and I would have to work out how to get the info out too
> 
> I've been thinking about using it for other things as well:
> - a sous vide mode - can set temp, has a pump break every 15 mins, but otherwise pump stays on - same as manual, can hit the pump button to turn it off/on manually. No timer.
> - apple cider pasteurisation - idea came from http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/. I figure it would be safer in the brau and can put a lid on it and have it set to a precise temp.
> 
> So - would either be a set temp for a set number of mins and then beeps at you to remove the cider, then push the button to start the timer for the next batch. or... this is more interesting... not sure if it is possible - but was thinking have the brau get to temp, swap the probe for one that goes inside an unsealed bottle full of water at the same initial temp as those being pasteurised, placed in with the batch being pasteurised, and then have it beep completion when it hits the required/targeted pasteurisation temp.
> 
> ok - those are some ideas
> Those last 2 would be low on the list for me at the moment





MastersBrewery said:


> I know most of these systems have been setup for single batches or smaller, the problem with going to larger volumes being implementing a second element solely for the boil, as there are spare pins available I take it this would not be too hard to implement in software.
> 
> Would need to bring out one of the spare pins to be able to do this or you could use 2 SSR and put a switch in the control wiring for one so you can switch it on or off.





Blue Baggers said:


> Matho - I'm not sure if you've put the fix in the final code or not yet, but I still get the odd high temp (can't remember the temp 80 or 90 ish degrees??) that starts the timer on the next mash step before it's actually reached temp. I've just been slack in updating the code myself as I've got Win8 at home which doesn't talk to Arduino yet.
> I'm not sure about these read errors as I have never experienced them but I have few idea's and I'll see which one uses the least amount of space.
> Agree with QldKev about adding the extra variables to the setup menu. I'm always adjusting up to 100deg on my rig.
> 
> Yeah sounds like a good idea, intially I made it to copy my original unit and I live 600m above sea level so boiling is about 97 deg.
> 
> No real deal breakers and the repeatability of my beer has improved 10 fold. Definitely worth the time and effort building one of these hence why I've got another two on the way from Lael to go with the three I bought from Matho for mates rigs. Thanks again for your efforts Matho.
> 
> Cheers,
> BB





QldKev said:


> Just to add to above, it would be nice if the controller held the temperature when the strike water is ready "add grain" and also when you get to mash out and it says to "remove grain".
> 
> The reason I didn't do this is because the temp sensor is mounted below the element and if the pump is not running the temperature can not be controlled and when the pump starts up again there will be an overshoot.


so the list is

Pump on/ off control during auto

Delay start

changes to the setting input

adding extra variables to set pump and boil control

and at the top of the list fix this read error problem.

cheers steve


----------



## matho

MastersBrewery said:


> I know most of these systems have been setup for single batches or smaller, the problem with going to larger volumes being implementing a second element solely for the boil, as there are spare pins available I take it this would not be too hard to implement in software.


Hey masters, instead of changing the code just wire it up like this





when you remove the malt just flick the switch to add the extra element.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Thanks Matho, I had thought that maybe the way to go was just unsure if the controller could handle 2 SSR's off one pin


----------



## matho

MastersBrewery said:


> Thanks Matho, I had thought that maybe the way to go was just unsure if the controller could handle 2 SSR's off one pin


Yeah the SSR takes about 7.5mA at 12v to trigger and the transistor driving the SSR are good for at least 50mA so firing 2 SSR's should be fine

cheers steve


----------



## QldKev

matho said:


> OK I have been playing with the braumiser last night and used this spreadsheet to get my PID settings right and I thought I would share it.
> 
> Just enter the volume and wattage of the element and then play with the PID setting until you get a good result.
> 
> A lot of the changes are easy to do and I'll address them later tonight, I want to put a couple of brews down and then start to make changes so expect changes to the code over the next couple of months.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brauduino PID.xls
> 
> cheers steve



I've had a play with the spreadsheet, but not sure what I'm looking for. I'm running
Kp 47
Ki 2
Kd 10

I find it gets to temp of, maybe a bit slow. But every a few minutes it creeps up a bit. So after 5min it will be 0.25 over, after 10min 0.5 etc. 
I'm running 29L mash in water, and a 2,000w element.

I'm thinking of setting
Kp 40
Ki 3
Kd 15

Do you think I'm heading in the correct direction?


----------



## matho

the maximum output of the brauduino PID is 100 so if you set the P to say 50, P will be at 100% power until there is less than 2 degs of error so upping the P will make the heating faster but cause overshoot. The I setting is divided by 100 in the code so a setting of 1 is actually 0.01, I is there to remove the constant error you get with P only drives. It intergrates so it builds up over time the only time it reduces is when there is an over temp. This has caused me a few headaches to get right and it is the reason the PID only handles the last 5 degs of any temperature step in a bid to limit the amount I term intergrates. D acts like a brake if there is a large change in the reduction of the error then it reduces power, if the error goes up then it increases power.

I would try

kP = 60
kI = 1
kD = 50

p.s I'm going to change the I setting to give a finer adjustment.


----------



## elpiratilla

hello, I have a doubt.
The pot must be of 50l or you can use one of 33 l?
regards


----------



## lael

You can use whatever you want. The important thing is the ratio of the inner and the outer pot. Making sure that a) the inner holds enough grain for batches you want to do b) the outer pot holds enough water so that you can have enough water covering your heating element, as well as filling the inside pot 'malt pipe' and overflowing back into the outside. There is a spreadsheet that will hopefully help. PM me your email and I can send it to you.


----------



## grimpanda

Hi Matho & other contributors,

I've been following this project with keen interest for some time now and have reached the point where I want to delve deeper into the rabbit hole...

One thing I'm not clear on is whether there are any kits being produced, or PCB's for sale, or if I'll need to etch my own/source the parts from the list provided in Matho's ZIP file?

Cheers.


----------



## MastersBrewery

I think lael is still getting some done, send him a PM


----------



## SkyNaras

Hi,

or using a 20x4 instead of 16x4 LCD display will be the changes in the program in Danielxan board?
Maybe someone has a program for 20x4 LCD display?
Is the most recent version is 2.2?


p.s. sorry for my english


----------



## grimpanda

Hi guys,

Question for Matho or anyone else who might know the answer...

If i'm planning on using a 240v pump, do I still need a 2A 12v DC power supply, or will a smaller one (say 1.3A) suffice?

Cheers,
Gabe


----------



## matho

Gabe said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Question for Matho or anyone else who might know the answer...
> 
> If i'm planning on using a 240v pump, do I still need a 2A 12v DC power supply, or will a smaller one (say 1.3A) suffice?
> 
> Cheers,
> Gabe


Gabe, you could go as small as 500mA if your not running a DC pump

cheers steve


----------



## grimpanda

Thanks Steve.

I've got another one...

The wiring diagram in your PDF indicates that the live AC for a 240v pump setup is switched directly by the shield... is that the case, or have I misinterpreted?

In either case, is it possible to run 12v DC to the pump switching input terminal (on the shield), and then the output to a secondary SSR which switches 240AC to the pump?

I've read some users are having issues with EMI when using 240v pumps... would this solution perhaps help reduce this, or is it a separate issue?

Cheers, and thanks for sharing such a great project with the world!


----------



## matho

Gabe said:


> Thanks Steve.
> 
> I've got another one...
> 
> The wiring diagram in your PDF indicates that the live AC for a 240v pump setup is switched directly by the shield... is that the case, or have I misinterpreted?
> 
> Yes you can run 240v through the relay, I put enough clearance between the tracks to handle 240v
> 
> In either case, is it possible to run 12v DC to the pump switching input terminal (on the shield), and then the output to a secondary SSR which switches 240AC to the pump?
> 
> Yep that could be done too, using a SSR to switch the pump would probably work and most SSR have internal snubber circuits too.
> 
> I've read some users are having issues with EMI when using 240v pumps... would this solution perhaps help reduce this, or is it a separate issue?
> 
> It does have something to do with switching 240v, whether or not it a problem with the arduino or the LCD I haven't worked out yet.
> 
> Cheers, and thanks for sharing such a great project with the world!


----------



## saviothecnic

Video Primo Test Clone Finito 11 11 2013

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2JW1j1myiI&feature=youtu.be


----------



## elpiratilla

Some electronic understood I could make a diagram of how to connect a ssr 220v pump and in turn the PCB?.

Greetings and thanks.

By the way, very good job saviothecnic.


----------



## QldKev

Both wiring diagrams for 12vdc and 240vac pumps are in the "brauduino controller build1.pdf", the last 2 pages.


----------



## elpiratilla

QldKev said:


> Both wiring diagrams for 12vdc and 240vac pumps are in the "brauduino controller build1.pdf", the last 2 pages.


What I'm saying is connect to one ssr 220v pump to test if it can avoid the problem you have.


----------



## saviothecnic

Bene oggi ho quasi terminato 

Inscatolare il tutto non è stato semplice vi posto qualche foto
Come vi ho accennato ho deciso di svincolare elettronica dal blocco meccanico.

Quindi ci sono dei connettori sull' elettronica e sulla parte meccanica

Well today I have almost finished: D

Canning the whole it was not easy I'll post some pictures
As I mentioned I have decided to release the mechanical lock electronics.

Then there are the connectors on the 'electronic and mechanical parts



























Servirebbe un contenitore un pelo più grande circa 2 centimetri per ogni lato compreso altezza
Ma alla fine sono riuscito a farci entrare tutto 

Certo appena qualcuno risucira a implementarci una tastiera piatta key 4x4
il costo e sopratutto ingombro avra un notevole miglioria ma gia cosi non è niente male 

Se in questa settimana riesco a finire tutto a breve vi postero il video del test di cotta.

Would need a larger container a hair about 2 inches on each side including height
But in the end I managed to get us all: D

Of course, as soon as someone risucira to implementarci a flat keyboard key 4x4
the cost and size will have a significant improvement especially
but already so it is not bad: D

If this week I can finish everything you posterolateral short video of the test firing.


----------



## elpiratilla

saviothecnic, I have been following your work on the arduino forum, and I liked it.
Very good job.


----------



## aamcle

Can you please post a link to a post that will tell me how load Mathos arduino programming.


Atb. Aamcle


----------



## djar007

Are you using a pc or a mac?


----------



## aamcle

I'll be using a PC.


Aamcle


----------



## djar007

Download the program from Arduino. Load it and create new file. Cut and paste Mathos code to it. Verify it. Upload it. Then it's on there. Just need the usb cable to plug into your pc.


----------



## lael

You will need to copy some libraries to your arduino codebase.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72371-mathos-brauduino-odd-behaviour/#entry1033956 has the ones you need in a zip file - unzip and copy across to the libraries folder inside your arduino folder.


----------



## adom

Danielxan said:


> Revision 2 of PCBs Birraduino, to solve a serious problem due to the SPI libraries, that prevent the full use of the D10 as an output pin instead of SS.
> Adding polarity selection BackLigjt


Hi,
where can i find list of components for this sheet please?

thx
Andrej


----------



## jwollmer

This is really a great forum, I have ordered my kit and as I am in in the US I am looking at a 220v chugger pump. I have seen in the wiring diagrams that the board can handle switching of this. As I do not have electronics background I just want to be sure the board can handle the switching of the 220v pump with our a SSR.

Thanks


----------



## pat_00

I am setting up a recirc biab type setup with mathos controller as the brains. The urn I plan on using has a 3.6kw element, do I need to upgrade the 25a SSR?

Tried searching for this info on here, but no luck.


----------



## TheWiggman

pat_00 said:


> I am setting up a recirc biab type setup with mathos controller as the brains. The urn I plan on using has a 3.6kw element, do I need to upgrade the 25a SSR?
> 
> Tried searching for this info on here, but no luck.


I used a 25A SSD on my system drawing only 10A, and it didn't have appropriate cooling (ie no heat sink) and it melted. Still worked though. Strictly speaking the 3.6 kW element will only draw 15A, but if you're yet to buy one spend $2 more and get a 40A. On eBay the 25A units are about $3.70 delivered, the 40A about $5.50 (China of course). 
The higher the rating the cooler they run, so I hear.


----------



## livetoride

So even for this controller build a 40A SSR is not overkill? I have one left over from a build I did for my reflux still which I was hopeing to use!


----------



## pat_00

Thing is, I already have a 25a ssr.

I wonder if I'd get away with it if I used a larger heatsink?


----------



## livetoride

Not even a larger one jist one appropriate for the current drawn. This page might be a overkill in the reading department but gives you an idea of what you need! Just use it and if it dies buy a new one


----------



## tateg

Hi everyone, 
Now that I have used this controller a few times, and every thing has worked like a charm, thanks Steve and lael 
I wanted to know what mash schedules others where using as the stock one, seems to take quite a while, just wondering if all the steps are worth it? 

Cheers


----------



## breakbeer

I mainly run with a two step schedule on mine. 60 minute mash (temp is dependant on recipe) with a 10 minute mash out @ 78 degrees. 

Works well for me


----------



## pat_00

For anyone making one of these controllers in Melbourne, I have the Jaycar ABS case for it that I don't need. (I am putting mine in a bigger enclosure).

I have already drilled the holes for the buttons and made the cutout for the LCD.

PM me if interested. (price is a bottle of your finest homebrew)


----------



## captnausm

Hey all...

I'm in the build process, and have searched with no success... Is there a quick-n-easy way to convert the code/system to Fahrenheit? (I know... Stubborn Americans won't switch)

Even if it isn't quick or easy, I'm not opposed to digging if anyone can point me in the right direction. TIA!

-Chris


----------



## MaxN68

Hello to all. 

In Italy we have created a project derived from Brauduino and we used both degrees Celsius and degrees Faherenheit. 

The project is the same as illustrated by Savio with the transformation of the single-sided PCB. 
At the original Matho's software I made ​​the following changes:


Modified by Massimo Nevi (2014)
- Added Buzzer Modulation (NumBeep, Period)
- Added Stage CountDown in Automatic Mode
- Added Stage Watch in Manual Mode
- Modified Max Number of Hops (10)
- Modified stage Wait in Active Pause (PID Controlo On)
- Modified H e P indicator for ON-OFF and Active-Disactive Modulation
- Added Some Control Parameter in Configuration Menu 
- Added Temp Pump Stop in Manual Mode
- Dual Scale Temp (°C-°F)
- Reorganized EEPROM
- Reorganized Configuration

- Added Second Menu Configuration
- Set Scale Temp (°C-°F)
- Set Temp of Boil
- Set Set Time Pump Cycle and Time Rest
- Set Location of Temp Sensor
- Set Pump ON-OFF at Boil 
- Set Temp Pump Stop
- Set Calibration Temp

- Reorganized Automation
- Removed Number of Stages Setting
- Fixed Name of Stages (7)
- Correct Mash In Stage
- Auto Mash Design
- Correct Time Reset of Pump
- Added Iodine Test (Active Pause)

- Stage Managing
- Load Stage Set
- Save Stage Set
- Delete Stage Set
- Initialize EEPROM

- LCD 16x2 wiew
- LCD 20x4 wiew
- Italian Language
- English Language

compiled on Arduino V1.0.5


----------



## dblunn

Hi,

Captnausium, I just cobbled together a version that displays degrees F but I will need to test it tomorrow. I'll post it if it works ok (compiles ok)

MaxN68, sounds nice. Where can we find this version?

Regards, Dave


----------



## MaxN68

We are finishing the test operation of the software with the latest changes made ​​regarding the Italian version.

The English translation is still in Beta version, in a short time I'll put the link with the complete package so I helped to test the operation in English and with Fahereheit


Sorry for my broken English, I am translating with Google


----------



## captnausm

Thanks for the quick replies guys! MaxN68, that sounds awesome! If you need a "lab rat" just let me know, I would love to try out your version.

Grazie per le risposte veloci ragazzi! MaxN68, che suona impressionante! Se avete bisogno di un "topo da laboratorio" fammelo sapere, mi piacerebbe provare la versione.


----------



## dblunn

Here is a version that displays degrees fahrenheit. Sorry about the formating, if anyone knows how to attach a file or at least keep the indenting etc then please let me know.
Regards, Dave

/*
brauduino semi automated single vessel RIMS
created by s.mathison
Copyright (C) 2012 Stephen Mathison

compiled on Arduino V1.0

This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.

This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the
GNU General Public License for more details.

You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
along with this program. If not, see <http://www.gnu.org/licenses/>.



27 Feb 2014 Modified by D. Blunn to display fahrenheit for our US cousins.
*/
　
　
//libraries
#include <EEPROM.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>
#include <OneWire.h>
#include <PID_v1.h>
OneWire ds(11);
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);
　
// push buttons
const char Button_up = A3;
const char Button_dn = A2;
const char Button_prev = A1;
const char Button_nxt = A0;
　
// outputs
const int Heat = 9;
const int Pump = 8;
const int Buzz = 10;
　
// global variables
unsigned int WindowSize;
unsigned long windowStartTime;
unsigned long start;
double Setpoint, Input, Output,eepromKp, eepromKi, eepromKd;
//boolean autoLoop = false; 
boolean manualLoop = false;
boolean waterAdd = false;
boolean Conv_start = false;
boolean mpump = false;
boolean mheat = false;
boolean wtBtn = false;
boolean autoEnter = false;
boolean tempReached = false;
boolean pumpRest = false;
//boolean boilLoop = false;
boolean resume = false;
float mset_tempF, mset_temp = 35;
float Temp_c, stageTemp,pumptempError,Temp_PID, Temp_f, stageTempF;
int x;
int stageTime,hopTime;
byte mainMenu = 0;
byte pumpTime;
byte data[2];
byte second;
//byte minute;
//byte i;
byte Busy = 0;
byte nmbrStgs;
byte nmbrHops;
byte tempHAddr;
byte tempLAddr;
byte timeAddr;
byte blhpAddr;
byte hopAdd;
char* stgName[] ={
"MashIn","Stage1","Stage2","Stage3","Stage4","Stage5","Stage6","Stage7","Stage8","Boil "};
//// degree c sybmol 
//byte degc[8] =
//{
// B01000,
// B10100,
// B01000,
// B00011,
// B00100,
// B00100,
// B00011,
// B00000,
//};
// degree f symbol
byte degf[8] =
{
B01000,
B10100,
B01000,
B00011,
B00100,
B01110,
B00100,
B00000,
};
//Specify the links and initial tuning parameters
PID myPID(&Input, &Output, &Setpoint,100,20,5, DIRECT);
　
//****** start of the funtions************** 
　
void Buzzer(int number)
{
for (int i=0; i < number; i++)
{
digitalWrite (Buzz,HIGH);
delay (500);
digitalWrite(Buzz,LOW);
delay(100);
}
}
　
void pause_stage(void){
boolean stage_pause = false;
if (Button_1sec_press(Button_prev)){
Buzzer(1);
stage_pause = true;
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW); 
display_lcd(0,0," Paused " ); 
while (stage_pause)
{
if (Button_1sec_press(Button_prev))stage_pause=false;
}
} 
}
　
void display_lcd (int pos , int line ,const char* lable){
lcd.setCursor(pos,line);
lcd.print(lable);
　
}
　
　
　
　
// 1 second button press
int Button_1sec_press (int Button_press){
if (digitalRead(Button_press)==0){
delay (1000);
if (digitalRead(Button_press)==0){
lcd.clear();
while(digitalRead(Button_press)==0){
}
return 1;
}
}
return 0;
}
　
　
　
　
// repeat button press
int Button_repeat (int Button_press){
if (digitalRead(Button_press)==0){
delay(200);
return 1;
}
return 0;
}
　
　
　
// holds whilst button pressed 
int Button_hold_press (int Button_press){
if (digitalRead (Button_press)==0){
delay(50);
while (digitalRead (Button_press)==0){
}
return 1;
}
return 0;
}
　
　
　
// reads the DS18B20 temerature probe 
void Temperature(void){
ds.reset();
ds.skip();
// start conversion and return
if (!(Conv_start)){
ds.write(0x44,0);
Conv_start = true;
return;
}
// check for conversion if it isn't complete return if it is then convert to decimal
if (Conv_start){
Busy = ds.read_bit();
if (Busy == 0){
return;
}
ds.reset();
ds.skip();
ds.write(0xBE); 
for ( int i = 0; i < 2; i++) { // we need 2 bytes
data_ = ds.read();
} 
unsigned int raw = (data[1] << 8) + data[0];
Temp_PID = (raw&0xFFFF)*0.0625;
Temp_c = (raw & 0xFFFC) * 0.0625; 
Temp_f = (Temp_c * 1.8) + 32;
Conv_start = false;
return;
} 
}
　
　
　
void PID_HEAT (void){
if(autoEnter){
Setpoint = stageTemp;
}
else{ 
Setpoint = mset_temp;
}
Input = Temp_PID;
if((Setpoint - Input)>5){
digitalWrite(Heat,HIGH);
if ((Setpoint - Input)<6)
{
myPID.Compute();
}
}
else{
myPID.Compute();
unsigned long now = millis();
if(now - windowStartTime>WindowSize)
{ //time to shift the Relay Window
windowStartTime += WindowSize;
}
if((Output*(WindowSize/100)) > now - windowStartTime) digitalWrite(Heat,HIGH);
else digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
}
}
　
　
　
void load_pid_settings (void)
{
eepromKp = word(EEPROM.read(0),EEPROM.read(1));// read the PID settings from the EEPROM
eepromKi = word(EEPROM.read(2),EEPROM.read(3));
eepromKd = word(EEPROM.read(4),EEPROM.read(5));
eepromKi = eepromKi/100;
myPID.SetTunings(eepromKp,eepromKi,eepromKd); // send the PID settings to the PID
WindowSize = word(EEPROM.read(33),EEPROM.read(34));
myPID.SetOutputLimits(0, 100);
myPID.SetSampleTime(5000);
} 
　
　
　
　
boolean wait_for_confirm (boolean& test)
{ 
wtBtn = true;
while (wtBtn){ // wait for comfirmation 
if (Button_hold_press(Button_prev)){
test = true;
wtBtn = false;
lcd.clear();
}
if (Button_hold_press(Button_nxt)){
test = false;
wtBtn = false;
lcd.clear();
}
}
}
　
　
　
　
float change_temp(float& temp_change,int upper_limit,int lower_limit)
{
// Increase set temp
if (Button_repeat(Button_up)){
if (temp_change>=100){
temp_change++; 
}
else{ 
temp_change+=0.25;
}
if (temp_change > upper_limit)temp_change = upper_limit;
}
// decrease temp
if (Button_repeat(Button_dn)) 
{
if(temp_change>=100){
temp_change--;
}
else{
temp_change-=0.25;
}
if ( temp_change < lower_limit) temp_change = lower_limit;
}
}
　
　
　
void quit_mode (boolean& processLoop)
{
if ((digitalRead(Button_dn)==0) && (digitalRead(Button_up)==0)){
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
processLoop = false;
lcd.clear();
}
}
　
　
　
　
void heat_control(void)
{
//turns heat on or off 
if (Button_hold_press(Button_prev)){
if (mheat==false){
mheat = true;
windowStartTime = millis();
}
else{
mheat = false;
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
}
}
}
　
　
　
　
void pump_control(void)
{
//turns the pump on or off
if (Button_hold_press(Button_nxt)){
if (mpump == false){
mpump = true;
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
}
else{
mpump = false;
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
}
}
}
　
　
　
void prompt_for_water (void){
display_lcd(0,0," Water added? ");
Buzzer(3);
display_lcd(0,1," Ok Quit");
}
　
　
void pump_prime(void)
{
lcd.clear();
lcd.print(" Pump Prime "); // priming the pump
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
delay (1000);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
delay (1000);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
delay(200);
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
delay (1000);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW); 
lcd.clear(); 
}
　
void pump_rest (int stage)
{
if (stage==9){
if (Temp_c<94.0) digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
else digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
if (Temp_c >= 95)tempReached = true; 
}
else{
pumptempError = stageTemp-Temp_c;
if (pumptempError <= 0)tempReached = true;
if ((pumpTime < 10)){ // starts pumps and heat
digitalWrite(Pump,HIGH);
pumpRest =false; 
}
if ((pumpTime >= 10)){ // pump rest
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
pumpRest = true;
if(pumpTime>=12 || (pumptempError > 1.0))pumpTime = 0;
} 
}
}
void check_for_resume(void){
if(EEPROM.read(35)){ // read the auto started byte to see if it has been set and if so ask to resume
display_lcd (0,0," Resume Process?");
display_lcd (0,1," Yes No");
wait_for_confirm(resume);
if(resume==true){
tempHAddr = (EEPROM.read(36)*3)+6;
tempLAddr = tempHAddr+1;
timeAddr = tempHAddr+2;
x = EEPROM.read(36);
autoEnter = true;
lcd.clear();
}
} 
}
　
　
void load_stage_settings (void){
tempHAddr = 6; // setup intitial stage addresses 
tempLAddr = 7;
timeAddr = 8;
nmbrStgs = EEPROM.read(38);// read the number of steps
nmbrHops = EEPROM.read(39);//read the number of hop additions
}
　
　
void start_time (void)
{
start = millis();
// windowStartTime = millis();
second = 0;
// minute = 0;
}
　
　
　
void stage_timing (int stage)
{
if ((millis()-start)>1000){ // timing routine
start = millis();
second++;
if(!(tempReached))second=0;// starts counting down when temp reached
if (second>59){
display_lcd(10,0," ");
second = 0;
pumpTime++;
if(stage == 0)pumpTime = 0;
stageTime--;
EEPROM.write(37,lowByte(stageTime));// saves stage time incase of interuption
}
}
}
　
　
　
void hop_add (void)
{
if(hopAdd <= nmbrHops){
if (stageTime == hopTime){
Buzzer(3);
lcd.clear();
lcd.print(" Add Hops");
delay(2000);
Buzzer(3);
hopAdd++;
EEPROM.write(49,hopAdd);
blhpAddr++;
hopTime = EEPROM.read(blhpAddr);
lcd.clear();
}
} 
}
　
　
void stage_loop (int stage, float H_temp=80, float L_temp=30){
int lastminute;
while ((stageTime>0)&&(autoEnter)){
lastminute=stageTime;
stage_timing(stage);
Temperature();// get temp
pause_stage();
if (pumpRest){
display_lcd(0,0," Pump Rest ");
display_lcd(0,1," ");
}
else{
display_lcd(0,0,stgName[stage]); 
display_lcd(6,0," ");
display_lcd(11,0,"T=");
lcd.print(stageTime);
display_lcd(0,1,"S/A=");
// lcd.print(stageTemp);
lcd.print(stageTempF,1);
display_lcd(9,1,"/");
// lcd.print(Temp_c);
lcd.print(Temp_f,1);
lcd.write((uint8_t)0);
lcd.write(' ');
}
change_temp(stageTemp,H_temp,L_temp);
pump_rest(stage);
if (pumpRest==false)PID_HEAT();
if (stage==9){
if(stageTime<lastminute){
hop_add();
}
}
quit_mode (autoEnter);
}
　
}
　
　
　
void get_stage_settings (void)
{
stageTemp = word(EEPROM.read(tempHAddr),EEPROM.read(tempLAddr));
stageTemp = stageTemp/16.0;
stageTempF = (stageTemp * 1.8) + 32;
if (resume){ // on the start of resume gets saved time
stageTime=EEPROM.read(37);
resume = false; // clears resume for next loop
}
else{
stageTime = EEPROM.read(timeAddr); // gets stage time
EEPROM.write(37,lowByte(stageTime));// saves the intial stage time
} 
}
　
　
　
void add_malt (void)
{
boolean malt;
lcd.clear();
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
display_lcd(0,0," Add Malt ");
Buzzer(3);
display_lcd(0,1," Ok Quit");
wait_for_confirm(malt);
if (malt==false){
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
lcd.clear();
delay(50);
mainMenu=0;
autoEnter = false;
}
}
　
void remove_malt (void)
{
boolean malt;
lcd.clear();
x = 9; // used add to stage count on the final stage for the resume 
EEPROM.write(36,lowByte(x)); // stores the stage number for the resume
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
display_lcd(0,0," Remove Malt ");
Buzzer(3);
display_lcd(0,1," Ok Quit");
wait_for_confirm(malt);
if (malt==false){
stageTime = EEPROM.read(40);
EEPROM.write(37,lowByte(stageTime));
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW);
lcd.clear();
delay(50);
mainMenu=0;
autoEnter = false;
}
}
　
　
　
　
　
void get_boil_settings (void)
{
nmbrHops = EEPROM.read(39);
if (resume){
if(x!=9){
stageTime = EEPROM.read(40);
}
else{
stageTime= EEPROM.read(37);
}
}
else{
stageTime = EEPROM.read(40);
EEPROM.write(37,lowByte(stageTime));
}
hopAdd = EEPROM.read(49);
blhpAddr = hopAdd+41;
lcd.clear();
hopTime = EEPROM.read(blhpAddr);
}
　
　
void manual_mode (void)
{
load_pid_settings();
prompt_for_water();
wait_for_confirm(manualLoop);
while (manualLoop){ // manual loop
Temperature();
mset_tempF = (mset_temp * 1.8) + 32;
display_lcd(0,0," Manual Mode ");
display_lcd(0,1,"S/A=");
// lcd.print(mset_temp);
lcd.print(mset_tempF,1);
display_lcd(9,1,"/");
// lcd.print(Temp_c);
lcd.print(Temp_f,1);
lcd.write((uint8_t)0);
lcd.write(' ');
change_temp(mset_temp,120,20);
quit_mode(manualLoop);
heat_control();
pump_control();
if (mheat){
PID_HEAT(); 
} 
}
}
　
void auto_mode (void)
{
load_stage_settings();
load_pid_settings();
check_for_resume();
if(!(resume)){ // if starting a new process prompt for water
prompt_for_water();
wait_for_confirm(autoEnter);
if(!(autoEnter))return;
pump_prime();
x = 0;
}
if (autoEnter){ // mash steps
EEPROM.write(35,1);// auto mode started
for (int i = x;i < nmbrStgs;i++){
EEPROM.write(36,lowByte(x)); // stores the stage number for the resume
x++; // used to count the stages for the resume 
tempReached = false;
get_stage_settings();
start_time(); 
stage_loop(i);
if (!(autoEnter)) break;
if( i==0 && autoEnter){ // at the end of the mashIn step pauses to add grain
add_malt();
if (!(autoEnter))break;
}
if(i==(nmbrStgs-1)&& autoEnter){ // at the end of the last step pauses to remove the malt pipe before the boil
remove_malt();
if (!(autoEnter))break;
} 
Buzzer(1); 
tempHAddr +=3; // increase stage addresses 
tempLAddr +=3;
timeAddr +=3;
lcd.clear(); 
}
}
// start of the boil
if(autoEnter){
start_time(); 
stageTemp= 98.0; // set the intital boil temp to 98 deg c
tempReached = false; 
get_boil_settings();
stage_loop(9,120,94);
if(autoEnter){ // finishes the brewing process
display_lcd(0,0," Brewing ");
display_lcd(0,1," Finished ");
Buzzer(3);
delay(2000);
EEPROM.write(35,0); // sets auto start byte to 0 for resume
EEPROM.write(49,0); // sets hop count to 0
mainMenu=0;
autoEnter =false;
resume =false;
}
　
}
}
　
　
void save_settings (int addr,int data)
{
EEPROM.write(addr,highByte(data));
EEPROM.write((addr+1),lowByte(data));
} 
　
　
void save_settings (int addr,byte data){
EEPROM.write(addr,data);
}
　
　
　
int change_set(int& set_change,int upper_limit,int lower_limit,int step_size)
{
// Increase set temp
if (Button_repeat(Button_up)){
set_change+=step_size;
display_lcd(0,1," ");
}
if (set_change > upper_limit)set_change = upper_limit;
// decrease temp
if (Button_repeat(Button_dn))
{
set_change-=step_size;
display_lcd(0,1," "); 
}
if ( set_change < lower_limit) set_change = lower_limit;
}
　
int change_set(byte& set_change,int upper_limit,int lower_limit,int step_size)
{
// Increase set temp
if (Button_repeat(Button_up)){
set_change+=step_size;
display_lcd(0,1," ");
}
if (set_change > upper_limit)set_change = upper_limit;
// decrease temp
if (Button_repeat(Button_dn))
{
set_change-=step_size;
display_lcd(0,1," "); 
}
if ( set_change < lower_limit) set_change = lower_limit;
}
　
　
　
void unit_set (void)
{
int param[] ={
100,-100,1,100,-100,1,100,-100,1,5000,500,500,9,1,1,8,0,1 };
int a = 0;
boolean pidLoop = false;
int pidSet,setaddr;
int windowSizeSet;
char* setName[] ={
"Kp = ","Ki = ","Kd = ","Windowsize= ","Num of Stages=","Num of Hops=" };
setaddr = 0;
for(int i=0;i<6;i++){
if((i>=0) && (i<=3)){
if (i==3) setaddr = 33; 
pidSet=word(EEPROM.read(setaddr),EEPROM.read((setaddr+1)));
}
if (i==4)setaddr = 38;
if((i>=4) && (i<6)){
pidSet= EEPROM.read(setaddr);
}
pidLoop= true;
display_lcd(0,1," ");
while (pidLoop){
display_lcd(0,1,setName); 
lcd.print(pidSet);
change_set(pidSet,param[a],param[a+1],param[a+2]);
quit_mode(pidLoop);
if (!(pidLoop))i=6;
if(Button_hold_press(Button_nxt)){
if (i >= 4){
save_settings(setaddr,lowByte(pidSet));
pidLoop = false;
}
else{
save_settings(setaddr,pidSet);
pidLoop = false;
}
}
}
if (i>=4){
setaddr+=1;
}
else{
setaddr+=2;
}
a+=3;
}
}
　
void set_stages (void)
{
boolean autotempLoop = false;
boolean autotimeLoop = false;
tempHAddr = 6;
tempLAddr = 7;
timeAddr = 8; 
float stgtmpSet, stgtmpSetF;
int stgtmpSetword;
int stgtimSet;
nmbrStgs = EEPROM.read(38);
for (int i=0; i<nmbrStgs;i++){ // loops for the number of stages 
stgtmpSet = word(EEPROM.read(tempHAddr),EEPROM.read(tempLAddr));
stgtmpSet = stgtmpSet/16.0;
autotempLoop = true;
while (autotempLoop){ // loops for temp adjust
display_lcd(0,1,stgName);
lcd.print("Temp=");
// lcd.print(stgtmpSet);
stgtmpSetF = (stgtmpSet * 1.8) + 32;
lcd.print(stgtmpSetF,1);
quit_mode(autotempLoop);
if (autotempLoop == false){
return;
}
change_temp(stgtmpSet,85,20);
if (Button_hold_press(Button_nxt)){
stgtmpSet = stgtmpSet*16;
stgtmpSetword =word(stgtmpSet);
save_settings(tempHAddr,stgtmpSetword);
display_lcd(0,1," "); 
autotempLoop = false; 
}
}
autotimeLoop = true;
stgtimSet = EEPROM.read(timeAddr);
while (autotimeLoop){ // loops to adjust time setting
display_lcd(0,1,stgName);
lcd.print(" time=");
lcd.print(stgtimSet);
quit_mode(autotimeLoop);
if (autotimeLoop == false){
return;
}
change_set(stgtimSet,120,0,1);
if (Button_hold_press(Button_nxt)){
save_settings(timeAddr,lowByte(stgtimSet));
display_lcd(0,1," "); 
autotimeLoop = false;
}
}
tempHAddr+= 3;
tempLAddr+= 3;
timeAddr+= 3;
}
} 
void set_hops (void)
{
boolean hopLoop = false;
blhpAddr = 40;
byte hopSet;
nmbrHops = EEPROM.read(39);
nmbrHops+=1;
for(int i =0;i<nmbrHops;i++){
hopLoop = true;
hopSet = EEPROM.read(blhpAddr);
while (hopLoop){
if (i==0){
display_lcd(0,1,"Boil time = ");
lcd.print(int (hopSet));
}
else{
display_lcd(0,1,"Hop ");
lcd.print(i);
lcd.print(" time = ");
lcd.print(int(hopSet));
}
quit_mode(hopLoop);
if( hopLoop == false){
return;
}
change_set(hopSet,180,0,1);
if (Button_hold_press(Button_nxt)){
save_settings(blhpAddr,hopSet);
lcd.setCursor(0,1);
lcd.print(" "); 
hopLoop = false;
}
}
blhpAddr+= 1;
}
}
　
　
void auto_set(void)
{
set_stages();
set_hops();
}
　
　
void setup_mode (void)
{
byte setupMenu = 0;
boolean setupLoop = true;
while (setupLoop){
switch (setupMenu){ // to select between PID and Auto menu
case(0):
display_lcd(0,0,"Unit Parameters ");
display_lcd(0,1," ");
quit_mode(setupLoop);
if (Button_hold_press(Button_up))setupMenu = 1;
if (Button_hold_press(Button_nxt))unit_set(); 
break;
case(1):
display_lcd(0,0," Auto Parameters");
display_lcd(0,1," ");
quit_mode(setupLoop);
if (Button_hold_press(Button_dn))setupMenu = 0;
if (Button_hold_press(Button_nxt))auto_set();
break;
}
}
} 
　
　
　
　
　
void setup()
{
// Start up the library
lcd.begin(16,2);
pinMode (Button_up,INPUT);
pinMode (Button_dn,INPUT);
pinMode (Button_prev,INPUT);
pinMode (Button_nxt,INPUT);
pinMode (Heat,OUTPUT);
pinMode (Pump,OUTPUT);
pinMode (Buzz,OUTPUT);
windowStartTime = millis();
//tell the PID to range between 0 and the full window size
myPID.SetMode(AUTOMATIC);
// write custom symbol to LCD
// lcd.createChar(0,degc);
lcd.createChar(0,degf);
}
　
　
　
void loop()
{
switch(mainMenu){
case (1):
display_lcd(0,0," Manual Mode ");
display_lcd(0,1," ");
delay (1000);
lcd.clear();
manual_mode();
mainMenu = 0;
break;
case (2): 
display_lcd(0,0," Auto Mode ");
display_lcd(0,1," ");
delay (1000);
lcd.clear();
auto_mode();
mainMenu = 0; 
break;
case (3): 
display_lcd(0,0," Setup Mode ");
display_lcd(0,1," ");
delay (1000);
lcd.clear();
setup_mode();
mainMenu = 0; 
break;
default: 
digitalWrite(Heat,LOW);
digitalWrite(Pump,LOW); 
Temperature();
display_lcd(0,0," The Brauduino ");
display_lcd(0,1," Temp=");
// lcd.print(Temp_c);
lcd.print(Temp_f);
lcd.write((uint8_t)0);
lcd.write(' ');
　
if (Button_1sec_press(Button_dn))mainMenu = 1;
if (Button_1sec_press(Button_prev))mainMenu = 2;
if (Button_1sec_press(Button_nxt))mainMenu = 3;
break; 
}
　
}_


----------



## MaxN68

hello to all 
here are the links to download our software version Matho with the changes described previously. 
We tested for a long time and corrected many bugs, we hope there are not more. 
We will be happy if someone could help us to improve the English side, which is still in Beta version. 
I also put the link to the manual (still is in Italian only). 
Let me know what you think

Manual (only Italian): http://goo.gl/x9rnmJ
Software:http://goo.gl/3c2u40


----------



## lukencode

Would be great if the code for this was hosted somewhere like github.


----------



## bonj

lukencode said:


> Would be great if the code for this was hosted somewhere like github.


Matho's code is on github


----------



## arzaman

Also the amazing and powerful Italian branch of the controller from maxN68 is on github

https://github.com/MaxN68it/Open-ArdBir

I'm working to nanual translation in English so you can really understand the great improvement performed

Stay tuned
Davide


----------



## bigbanko

arzaman said:


> Also the amazing and powerful Italian branch of the controller from maxN68 is on github
> 
> https://github.com/MaxN68it/Open-ArdBir
> 
> I'm working to nanual translation in English so you can really understand the great improvement performed
> 
> Stay tuned
> Davide



I look forward to the English translation of the manual arzaman, thank you for your effort.

The changes made above have made quite a few worth while improvements and I thank all those involved for their efforts. It is high appreciated.

Cheers


----------



## MaxN68

At this time we are testing some small additions. 

1) Audible alarm on reaching the Set Point in MODE MANUAL 

2) Ask to save the setting automation after the end of data entry 

3) Jump Step (except Mash In) after a long press of the ENTER key, with audible alarm and confirmation in AUTO MODE 


They are also fixed minor errors display (flashing character)


----------



## MaxN68

I've updated ArdBir (Ver. 2.6.54) with the changes previously described


----------



## lael

MaxN68 said:


> At this time we are testing some small additions.
> 
> 1) Audible alarm on reaching the Set Point in MODE MANUAL
> 
> 2) Ask to save the setting automation after the end of data entry
> 
> 3) Jump Step (except Mash In) after a long press of the ENTER key, with audible alarm and confirmation in AUTO MODE
> 
> 
> They are also fixed minor errors display (flashing character)


These sound like good additions. for #2 - if the settings are not automatically saved - what happens if the system gets switched off? does it still auto-recover as it does with matho's code?


----------



## MaxN68

In ArdBir the current setting is saved in the EEPROM just like in Brauduino, as well as the ability to resume a stopped job.
The novelty is to manage (load, save, delete) up to 10 different settings (recipes).
At the end of the insertion of automation parameters are asked if you want to save this setting to be able to be reused at other times through the upload function in the "Recipe" menu.

We are workinkg for the english manual.


----------



## lael

Oh, that's cool! Can't wait to see the English manual for it!


----------



## lael

Just playing with the new Italian code - NICE.... very nice. Can we have two alpha amalyse steps please? I'll frequently step at both 66(or thereabouts) and 72 before heading to mash out at 78.

Any chance its possible to name the saved settings? (not just 1 / 2 / 3 etc?)

As for the English manual - everything seems pretty straight forward - Is is possible to set a delay prior to brewing - eg: get everything ready and mash in the night before. Brauduino starts mashing @ 6am and is ready for me to lift malt pipe and boil when I wake up.

It seems like it might have a time for counting down/ up on manual? How do you set it?

Nice work!! Makes the controller an even nicer bit of kit!


----------



## MastersBrewery

I thought the italian code was written for the single sided PCB which has different pin out and some other good bits added, if memory serves me SD card support?


----------



## MaxN68

The free space was really little, I see what you can do, otherwise I have to sacrifice the credits.


----------



## MaxN68

MastersBrewery said:


> I thought the italian code was written for the single sided PCB which has different pin out and some other good bits added, if memory serves me SD card support?


ArdBir is compatible with the PCB Brauduino. 
The correct pinouts are easily managed through libraries can be activated with the command # include 


Code:


// SETTING PCB*****
// Select your PCB Version

// Only sperimental PCB for TESTING
//#include "Pcb_05.h"
//#include "Pcb_11s.h"
//#include "Pcb_14.h"

// Official PCB supported
//#include "Pcb_Brauduino_DanielXan.h"
#include "Pcb_Brauduino_Original.h"


Regarding the use of the SD Card I have already tried it but there is not enough space on the sketch.


However, I would like to publicly thank Matho for the excellent work done with Brauduino and without whom none of us would be here today to try to improve the way we make beer.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Cool!


----------



## djar007

Is the single sided board going to be for sale?


----------



## saviothecnic

was given all the material and information to do it for free at home
why we chose single-sided copper so easy to do at home
I can also give someone but do not know if I agree with the shipment from Italy


----------



## matho

it is great to see the brauduino has taken on a life of its own and is getting the attention I can't give it. Thankyou to all that have contributed to developing the controller further.

cheers steve


----------



## lael

matho said:


> it is great to see the brauduino has taken on a life of its own and is getting the attention I can't give it. Thankyou to all that have contributed to developing the controller further.
> 
> cheers steve


Steve - thanks for making it possible! It is a delight to brew with and I frequently think how blessed we are that you made the effort to rework your controller and the PCB kit etc so we could all have one. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!


----------



## MaxN68

The Brauduino Project and ArdBir are on MAKE Magazine
http://makezine.com/2014/03/28/homebrewing-and-arduino-the-perfect-recipe/


----------



## MaxN68

We are working on the last upgrade of ardbir​​: the possibility of giving a name to the saved automation in collecting recipes.

There are considerable difficulties with the limit to 32K but trying to optimize all the firmware we are succeeding. 
We still have to finish the test because of the many pieces of code revised and then proceed to make public the firmware

Stay tuned


----------



## jwollmer

Arduino troubles.
This is my first go at this but this is what I have done.
1) installed Arduino IDE
2) imported OneWire library
3) imported PIDV1 library
4) downloaded sketch from GitHub
5) Opened Sketch in Arduino IDE
6) executed Verify / Compile
At this I have received a number of errors listed below.
The only thing I haven't done was install the driver for the Uno. (I am at work and Uno is at home)
Let me know what I may have missed.

Thanks and sorry for the length of the post.
Jim


brauduino2:28: error: 'OneWire' does not name a type
brauduino2.pde: In function 'void Temperature()':
brauduino2:198: error: 'ds' was not declared in this scope
brauduino2.pde: In function 'void stage_loop(int, float, float)':
brauduino2:525: error: call of overloaded 'write(int)' is ambiguous
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal/LiquidCrystal.h:82: note: candidates are: virtual size_t LiquidCrystal::write(uint8_t)
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/Print.h:49: note: size_t Print::write(const char*)
brauduino2.pde: In function 'void manual_mode()':
brauduino2:655: error: call of overloaded 'write(int)' is ambiguous
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal/LiquidCrystal.h:82: note: candidates are: virtual size_t LiquidCrystal::write(uint8_t)
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/Print.h:49: note: size_t Print::write(const char*)
brauduino2.pde: In function 'void loop()':
brauduino2:1049: error: call of overloaded 'write(int)' is ambiguous
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal/LiquidCrystal.h:82: note: candidates are: virtual size_t LiquidCrystal::write(uint8_t)
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/Print.h:49: note: size_t Print::write(const char*)
brauduino2.ino: At global scope:
brauduino2:28: error: 'OneWire' does not name a type
brauduino2:29: error: redefinition of 'LiquidCrystal lcd'
brauduino2:29: error: 'LiquidCrystal lcd' previously declared here
brauduino2:33: error: redefinition of 'const char Button_up'
brauduino2:33: error: 'const char Button_up' previously defined here
brauduino2:34: error: redefinition of 'const char Button_dn'
brauduino2:34: error: 'const char Button_dn' previously defined here
brauduino2:35: error: redefinition of 'const char Button_prev'
brauduino2:35: error: 'const char Button_prev' previously defined here
brauduino2:36: error: redefinition of 'const char Button_nxt'
brauduino2:36: error: 'const char Button_nxt' previously defined here
brauduino2:40: error: redefinition of 'const int Heat'
brauduino2:40: error: 'const int Heat' previously defined here
brauduino2:41: error: redefinition of 'const int Pump'
brauduino2:41: error: 'const int Pump' previously defined here
brauduino2:42: error: redefinition of 'const int Buzz'
brauduino2:42: error: 'const int Buzz' previously defined here
brauduino2:46: error: redefinition of 'unsigned int WindowSize'
brauduino2:46: error: 'unsigned int WindowSize' previously declared here
brauduino2:48: error: redefinition of 'long unsigned int windowStartTime'
brauduino2:48: error: 'long unsigned int windowStartTime' previously declared here
brauduino2:49: error: redefinition of 'long unsigned int start'
brauduino2:49: error: 'long unsigned int start' previously declared here
brauduino2:51: error: redefinition of 'double Setpoint'
brauduino2:51: error: 'double Setpoint' previously declared here
brauduino2:51: error: redefinition of 'double Input'
brauduino2:51: error: 'double Input' previously declared here
brauduino2:51: error: redefinition of 'double Output'
brauduino2:51: error: 'double Output' previously declared here
brauduino2:51: error: redefinition of 'double eepromKp'
brauduino2:51: error: 'double eepromKp' previously declared here
brauduino2:51: error: redefinition of 'double eepromKi'
brauduino2:51: error: 'double eepromKi' previously declared here
brauduino2:51: error: redefinition of 'double eepromKd'
brauduino2:51: error: 'double eepromKd' previously declared here
brauduino2:53: error: redefinition of 'boolean manualLoop'
brauduino2:53: error: 'boolean manualLoop' previously defined here
brauduino2:54: error: redefinition of 'boolean waterAdd'
brauduino2:54: error: 'boolean waterAdd' previously defined here
brauduino2:55: error: redefinition of 'boolean Conv_start'
brauduino2:55: error: 'boolean Conv_start' previously defined here
brauduino2:56: error: redefinition of 'boolean mpump'
brauduino2:56: error: 'boolean mpump' previously defined here
brauduino2:57: error: redefinition of 'boolean mheat'
brauduino2:57: error: 'boolean mheat' previously defined here
brauduino2:58: error: redefinition of 'boolean wtBtn'
brauduino2:58: error: 'boolean wtBtn' previously defined here
brauduino2:59: error: redefinition of 'boolean autoEnter'
brauduino2:59: error: 'boolean autoEnter' previously defined here
brauduino2:60: error: redefinition of 'boolean tempReached'
brauduino2:60: error: 'boolean tempReached' previously defined here
brauduino2:61: error: redefinition of 'boolean pumpRest'
brauduino2:61: error: 'boolean pumpRest' previously defined here
brauduino2:63: error: redefinition of 'boolean resume'
brauduino2:63: error: 'boolean resume' previously defined here
brauduino2:64: error: redefinition of 'float mset_temp'
brauduino2:64: error: 'float mset_temp' previously defined here
brauduino2:65: error: redefinition of 'float Temp_c'
brauduino2:65: error: 'float Temp_c' previously declared here
brauduino2:65: error: redefinition of 'float stageTemp'
brauduino2:65: error: 'float stageTemp' previously declared here
brauduino2:65: error: redefinition of 'float pumptempError'
brauduino2:65: error: 'float pumptempError' previously declared here
brauduino2:67: error: redefinition of 'int temp'
brauduino2:67: error: 'int temp' previously declared here
brauduino2:68: error: redefinition of 'int x'
brauduino2:68: error: 'int x' previously declared here
brauduino2:69: error: redefinition of 'int stageTime'
brauduino2:69: error: 'int stageTime' previously declared here
brauduino2:69: error: redefinition of 'int hopTime'
brauduino2:69: error: 'int hopTime' previously declared here
brauduino2:71: error: redefinition of 'byte mainMenu'
brauduino2:71: error: 'byte mainMenu' previously defined here
brauduino2:72: error: redefinition of 'byte pumpTime'
brauduino2:72: error: 'byte pumpTime' previously declared here
brauduino2:73: error: redefinition of 'byte data [2]'
brauduino2:73: error: 'byte data [2]' previously declared here
brauduino2:74: error: redefinition of 'byte second'
brauduino2:74: error: 'byte second' previously declared here
brauduino2:77: error: redefinition of 'byte Busy'
brauduino2:77: error: 'byte Busy' previously defined here
brauduino2:78: error: redefinition of 'byte nmbrStgs'
brauduino2:78: error: 'byte nmbrStgs' previously declared here
brauduino2:79: error: redefinition of 'byte nmbrHops'
brauduino2:79: error: 'byte nmbrHops' previously declared here
brauduino2:80: error: redefinition of 'byte tempHAddr'
brauduino2:80: error: 'byte tempHAddr' previously declared here
brauduino2:81: error: redefinition of 'byte tempLAddr'
brauduino2:81: error: 'byte tempLAddr' previously declared here
brauduino2:82: error: redefinition of 'byte timeAddr'
brauduino2:82: error: 'byte timeAddr' previously declared here
brauduino2:83: error: redefinition of 'byte blhpAddr'
brauduino2:83: error: 'byte blhpAddr' previously declared here
brauduino2:84: error: redefinition of 'byte hopAdd'
brauduino2:84: error: 'byte hopAdd' previously declared here
brauduino2:86: error: redefinition of 'char* stgName []'
brauduino2:86: error: 'char* stgName [10]' previously defined here
brauduino2:90: error: redefinition of 'byte degc [8]'
brauduino2:90: error: 'byte degc [8]' previously defined here
brauduino2:104: error: redefinition of 'PID myPID'
brauduino2:104: error: 'PID myPID' previously declared here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void Buzzer(int)':
brauduino2:110: error: redefinition of 'void Buzzer(int)'
brauduino2:110: error: 'void Buzzer(int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void pause_stage()':
brauduino2:123: error: redefinition of 'void pause_stage()'
brauduino2:123: error: 'void pause_stage()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void display_lcd(int, int, const char*)':
brauduino2:140: error: redefinition of 'void display_lcd(int, int, const char*)'
brauduino2:140: error: 'void display_lcd(int, int, const char*)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'int Button_1sec_press(int)':
brauduino2:152: error: redefinition of 'int Button_1sec_press(int)'
brauduino2:152: error: 'int Button_1sec_press(int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'int Button_repeat(int)':
brauduino2:171: error: redefinition of 'int Button_repeat(int)'
brauduino2:171: error: 'int Button_repeat(int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'int Button_hold_press(int)':
brauduino2:183: error: redefinition of 'int Button_hold_press(int)'
brauduino2:183: error: 'int Button_hold_press(int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void Temperature()':
brauduino2:197: error: redefinition of 'void Temperature()'
brauduino2:197: error: 'void Temperature()' previously defined here
brauduino2:198: error: 'ds' was not declared in this scope
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void PID_HEAT()':
brauduino2:229: error: redefinition of 'void PID_HEAT()'
brauduino2:229: error: 'void PID_HEAT()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void load_pid_settings()':
brauduino2:246: error: redefinition of 'void load_pid_settings()'
brauduino2:246: error: 'void load_pid_settings()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'boolean wait_for_confirm(boolean&)':
brauduino2:262: error: redefinition of 'boolean wait_for_confirm(boolean&)'
brauduino2:262: error: 'boolean wait_for_confirm(boolean&)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'float change_temp(float&, int, int)':
brauduino2:284: error: redefinition of 'float change_temp(float&, int, int)'
brauduino2:284: error: 'float change_temp(float&, int, int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void quit_mode(boolean&)':
brauduino2:313: error: redefinition of 'void quit_mode(boolean&)'
brauduino2:313: error: 'void quit_mode(boolean&)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void heat_control()':
brauduino2:328: error: redefinition of 'void heat_control()'
brauduino2:328: error: 'void heat_control()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void pump_control()':
brauduino2:348: error: redefinition of 'void pump_control()'
brauduino2:348: error: 'void pump_control()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void prompt_for_water()':
brauduino2:367: error: redefinition of 'void prompt_for_water()'
brauduino2:367: error: 'void prompt_for_water()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void pump_prime()':
brauduino2:376: error: redefinition of 'void pump_prime()'
brauduino2:376: error: 'void pump_prime()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void pump_rest(int)':
brauduino2:396: error: redefinition of 'void pump_rest(int)'
brauduino2:396: error: 'void pump_rest(int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void check_for_resume()':
brauduino2:419: error: redefinition of 'void check_for_resume()'
brauduino2:419: error: 'void check_for_resume()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void load_stage_settings()':
brauduino2:439: error: redefinition of 'void load_stage_settings()'
brauduino2:439: error: 'void load_stage_settings()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void start_time()':
brauduino2:450: error: redefinition of 'void start_time()'
brauduino2:450: error: 'void start_time()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void stage_timing(int)':
brauduino2:462: error: redefinition of 'void stage_timing(int)'
brauduino2:462: error: 'void stage_timing(int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void hop_add()':
brauduino2:483: error: redefinition of 'void hop_add()'
brauduino2:483: error: 'void hop_add()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void stage_loop(int, float, float)':
brauduino2:503: error: redefinition of 'void stage_loop(int, float, float)'
brauduino2:503: error: 'void stage_loop(int, float, float)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void get_stage_settings()':
brauduino2:549: error: redefinition of 'void get_stage_settings()'
brauduino2:549: error: 'void get_stage_settings()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void add_malt()':
brauduino2:567: error: redefinition of 'void add_malt()'
brauduino2:567: error: 'void add_malt()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void remove_malt()':
brauduino2:588: error: redefinition of 'void remove_malt()'
brauduino2:588: error: 'void remove_malt()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void get_boil_settings()':
brauduino2:617: error: redefinition of 'void get_boil_settings()'
brauduino2:617: error: 'void get_boil_settings()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void manual_mode()':
brauduino2:641: error: redefinition of 'void manual_mode()'
brauduino2:636: error: 'void manual_mode()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void auto_mode()':
brauduino2:673: error: redefinition of 'void auto_mode()'
brauduino2:668: error: 'void auto_mode()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void save_settings(int, int)':
brauduino2:736: error: redefinition of 'void save_settings(int, int)'
brauduino2:731: error: 'void save_settings(int, int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void save_settings(int, byte)':
brauduino2:745: error: redefinition of 'void save_settings(int, byte)'
brauduino2:740: error: 'void save_settings(int, byte)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'int change_set(int&, int, int, int)':
brauduino2:754: error: redefinition of 'int change_set(int&, int, int, int)'
brauduino2:749: error: 'int change_set(int&, int, int, int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'int change_set(byte&, int, int, int)':
brauduino2:773: error: redefinition of 'int change_set(byte&, int, int, int)'
brauduino2:768: error: 'int change_set(byte&, int, int, int)' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void unit_set()':
brauduino2:794: error: redefinition of 'void unit_set()'
brauduino2:789: error: 'void unit_set()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void set_stages()':
brauduino2:847: error: redefinition of 'void set_stages()'
brauduino2:842: error: 'void set_stages()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void set_hops()':
brauduino2:905: error: redefinition of 'void set_hops()'
brauduino2:900: error: 'void set_hops()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void auto_set()':
brauduino2:948: error: redefinition of 'void auto_set()'
brauduino2:943: error: 'void auto_set()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void setup_mode()':
brauduino2:957: error: redefinition of 'void setup_mode()'
brauduino2:952: error: 'void setup_mode()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void setup()':
brauduino2:988: error: redefinition of 'void setup()'
brauduino2:983: error: 'void setup()' previously defined here
brauduino2.ino: In function 'void loop()':
brauduino2:1011: error: redefinition of 'void loop()'
brauduino2:1006: error: 'void loop()' previously defined here


----------



## bonj

easydoesit said:


> Arduino troubles.
> 
> <snip>
> 
> brauduino2:28: error: 'OneWire' does not name a type
> brauduino2.pde: In function 'void Temperature()':
> brauduino2:198: error: 'ds' was not declared in this scope


The first error indicates that the OneWire library hasn't imported properly. Give it another try and see what happens. You may find that once that is fixed, most or all of the other errors will go away.


----------



## MaxN68

I just finished writing the code for what will be the last change of ArdBir: the possibility of giving a name (maximum 10 characters) to save the settings of the automation. 

The space is pretty much everything, including with regard to the RAM. 
For any change to be made is docrà migrate to the upper platform: Arduino Mega. 

I also wrote the English translation for all the changes made. 

Currently the firmware is to be considered in Beta version, for problems related to the health of my loved ones do not have too much time to make all the necessary checks. 
In peossimi days I'll put the link where to find this version. 
I hope you can help me to fix errors related to incorrect display on the display of the various written.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Thanks for the Great work max and I'm all of us here wish a speed recovery for your loved ones.

MB


----------



## changchuyo

Hi everyone. I succesfully changed the buzzer sound, now it sounds louder. I don't know if this right way to do it but it works. Here is the code I modified:


//****** start of the functions************** 

void Buzzer(int number)
{
for (int i=0; i < number; i++)
{
analogWrite(Buzz,20);
delay (500);
analogWrite(Buzz,0);
delay(100);
}

}


----------



## real_beer

arzaman said:


> https://github.com/MaxN68it/Open-ArdBir


Has anyone compiled and got the latest version running using Pcb_Brauduinriginal.h and LCD16x2_ENG.h 
I've been stuffing around with it for the last day & a half & just wondered if anyone is using it successfully Australia. I don't want to post pages of code listings......... yet at least, just curious.
All the libaries have loaded okay.

These are the errors I get at the moment, no doubt they'll change to others when these go away:
-------------------------------------------
In file included from ArdBir.ino:108:0:
Recipe.h: In function ‘void RecipeMenu()’:
Recipe.h:201:20: error: too few arguments to function ‘void Menu_3_4_2(byte)’
Menu_3_4_2();
^
In file included from ArdBir.ino:99:0:
LCD16x2_ITA.h:349:6: note: declared here
void Menu_3_4_2(byte Riga){
^
---------------------------------------------------


----------



## djar007

Does Mathos original code compile for you.


----------



## real_beer

djar007 said:


> Does Mathos original code compile for you.


Hi 007

Yeah it works great, & I've got it loaded on two controllers already. I was interested about updating them and seeing what the extra features are like but don't really have a problem it I can't


----------



## MaxN68

I tried to compile version 2.6.54 and I have not encountered any errors. 
If you want you can try the latest version. 
This is a beta version (not fully tested), but it is seen that the final structure of the occupied space does not permit further changes.

*Open ArdBir 2.6.61j (Beta)*


----------



## real_beer

MaxN68 said:


> I tried to compile version 2.6.54 and I have not encountered any errors.
> If you want you can try the latest version.
> This is a beta version (not fully tested), but it is seen that the final structure of the occupied space does not permit further changes.
> 
> *Open ArdBir 2.6.61j (Beta)*


Thanks MaxN68, It compiled and uploaded perfectly. Big Sloppy xoxoxoxo

















Cheers


----------



## MaxN68

I see from the photograph that there is a small error on the display after the symbol of Fahrenheit. 
I will look to fix this bug, but looks correct other errors reported before upgrading.


----------



## real_beer

MaxN68 said:


> I see from the photograph that there is a small error on the display after the symbol of Fahrenheit.
> I will look to fix this bug, but looks correct other errors reported before upgrading.


I've just put it in my controller and after a couple of minutes flicking through the menus it seems to be working very well. As I'm not an American I've also switched it over to Celsius  . I'll spend more time with it tomorrow and report back if I find any problems. Great work! Not I just need to get the manual and learn Italian so I can use it properly :lol: . Thanks again.


----------



## djar007

arzaman said:


> Also the amazing and powerful Italian branch of the controller from maxN68 is on github
> 
> https://github.com/MaxN68it/Open-ArdBir
> 
> I'm working to nanual translation in English so you can really understand the great improvement performed
> 
> Stay tuned
> Davide


How is the translation going mate? I am keen to try this out when you are finished. Looks great.


----------



## real_beer

djar007 said:


> How is the translation going mate? I am keen to try this out when you are finished. Looks great.


Hi djar007,

I've been told there's a final version of the Italian manual coming out shortly with all the latest updates to ArdBir, closely followed by an English first draft version using Italian pictures.


----------



## MaxN68

djar007 said:


> How is the translation going mate? I am keen to try this out when you are finished. Looks great.


We are working.


----------



## djar007

Awesome news. Thanks Rb. And thank you max. Much appreciated by all of us. Regards david.


----------



## MaxN68

The work on the translation of the manual is going on. 
We have translated all the text and made ​​a first correction, we have to finish only a few images 20x4 before publishing it.


----------



## MaxN68

We finally finished writing the manual in English including all images. 
Probably our translation will not be 100% perfect but I hope someone can help us improve it. 
*ArdBir Manual*

This however is the link of the latest version of *ArdBir (2.6.61k)*


----------



## aamcle

Got them thanks.

There only seem to be the user manual and the code, are there any build instructions? That is instructions - connect wire to X. And so on?

Atb....... Aamcle


----------



## real_beer

aamcle said:


> Got them thanks.
> 
> There only seem to be the user manual and the code, are there any build instructions? That is instructions - connect wire to X. And so on?
> 
> Atb....... Aamcle


It's all based on the "Original Braudino Board" build *2 sided board* and later adapted for the *one sided* versions others have developed since. You can choose whatever version of the board you've built in the sketch and set it by removing the // in front of the include code.

// Supported PCB
//#include "Pcb_Brauduino_DanielXan.h"
#include "Pcb_Brauduinriginal.h"

You do the same to select the language and also select between if you have chosen to build your controller with a 2 or 4 row LCD.


// SETTING LCD*****
// Select your LCD

// LANGUAGE ITA
//#include "LCD16x2_ITA.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ITA.h"

// LANGUAGE ENG
#include "LCD16x2_ENG.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ENG.h"


The program adds extra features like storing up to 10 recipes you want to keep on the controller just to name one.

A few people experiencing EMI might be interested in the following. I've had trouble with EMI scrambling my screen when the controller started priming the pump, so I asked Max the following: 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Max, I prime my 'March Pump' manually and don't need the 'Prime Pump' feature on my controller. The main reason is because the EMI produced always scrambles my LCD Screen. What code should I block out too remove it?

My screen works fine for the rest of the time when I unplug & resume the cycle.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Max answered:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The "Pump Prime" Function is called by *pump_prime(); *in* VOID auto_mode*.
Is just one line, in Manual Mode the Pump Prime is not present.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On my Auduino IDE its at line 1040 in this section of code, just // the pump_prime() like I have. I haven't had an issue with EMI since blocking it. 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Menu_2();

if(!(resume)){ // if starting a new process prompt for water
prompt_for_water();
wait_for_confirm(b_Enter,0,2);

Menu_2();//pulisce lo schermo

if(!(b_Enter))return;
hopAdd =0; //reset hop count at teh start of the processes
EEPROM.write(85,hopAdd); 
pumpTime =0;
pumpRest =false;
// pump_prime();
x = 0;
}
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So basically ArdBir is updated code that can be tweaked easily to work on the various boards based on the original "Braudino" by Matho. If you've built one of them you'll be able to load the sketch code onto it and gain the extra features.

Cheers


----------



## JackOfShadows

MaxN68 said:


> We finally finished writing the manual in English including all images.
> Probably our translation will not be 100% perfect but I hope someone can help us improve it.
> *ArdBir Manual*


Max, thanks for your work.

Page 3: "Exist form CONFIGURATION menu" == exits from?


----------



## MaxN68

Thanks.
I've just correct and updated the file


----------



## djar007

I think aamcle is looking for instructions on how to assemble the one sided shield.


----------



## livetoride

aamcle said:


> Got them thanks.
> 
> There only seem to be the user manual and the code, are there any build instructions? That is instructions - connect wire to X. And so on?
> 
> Atb....... Aamcle


Check out this thread its got everything you need to build yiur shield

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?/topic/69155-Bonjuino-And-Matho's-Controller-$30


----------



## JackOfShadows

MaxN68 said:


> Thanks.
> I've just correct and updated the file


1. Max, I'm sorry - but the word "exists" happens 2 times more in the document.

2. Page 7 - names of phases are in Italian while English LCDs type them in English.

3. I'm trying to translate the document into Russian if you don't mind. A small problem is that most LCDs don't support cyrillic - so I'm going to leave English menu for now.

4. Concerning recipes. As there are tons of them and Arduino is bad for surfing - maybe it is good to add SD card, create a txt/xml file renewed by community and load recipes from it?

5. Small note just FYI. We use Arduino Pro Mini, and its max sketch size is 30720 bytes (not like 32256 for UNO) - so we have to remove recipes support to compile successfully. And if to add support of SD card and external recipes - we will really need to switch HW to Mega.


----------



## MaxN68

Reply to 1-2
Thanks for the recommendations to improve the writing of this manual. 
I'm providing for the correction of errors, but also to improve the translation of ArdBir. 
As suggested by Arnie the menu "Manage Settings" will be changed to "Manage Recipes." 
Again in the menu Manage Recipes I've added a couple of functions in the process of entering the name of the recipe: 
1) START button allows you to go back one character to correct 
(This feature is already present but not indicated in the manual) 
2) UP + DOWN finish entering the name automatically adding the missing spaces to complete the length of the name. 

In addition to these changes I also fixed the break with confirmation " iodine test" retaining only volumes one. 

As soon as I finished the corrections let you know the update of the manual and firmware


Reply to 4

We are currently occupying 99% of the resources Arduino. 
I tried to load the SD library to manage the recipes but the space required is far beyond the 32K without a single line of code to handle then the recipes.


Reply to 5
If you want to try to free space, you can remove the sprite initial and the credits

The ArdBir sprite at start i called by *ArdBir()* in line 1636 
The Credits are called by
*if (btn_Press(Button_dn,50))setupMenu = 4; *in line
and the entire section that goes from row 1592 to row 1597


case(4):
Menu_3_5();
if (btn_Press(Button_start,50))setupLoop=false;
if (btn_Press(Button_up,50))setupMenu = 3;
if (btn_Press(Button_enter,50))Credits();
break;

This solution frees 1000bytes

In addition to this I have noticed a considerable difference if you compile with different operating systems. 




I tried to compile with Lubuntu and I got these results

Lubuntu vs Windows XP = 852bytes 
OSX Windows XP vx = 48bytes


Trying to compile as I've explained this result: 29.806!!!


----------



## saviothecnic

PreTest New PCB OpenArdBir O.C Ok
I am attaching files engraving PCBs and high-definition picture
so are of no help to mount











https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Rf3W8P_sY4/U1ZQIUiq7yI/AAAAAAAAYKM/9dpFSiiAk00/w906-h504-no/ComponentiOpenArdBir.jpg

Donwload PCB Files

www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpnArdBirOC.rar

Foto Hi Def 36Mp over 20Mb

www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_ResistenzeDiodi.jpg
www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_StreepLine.jpg
www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_StreepLCD_LatoRame.jpg
www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_InsiemeCompo.jpg
www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_InsiemeCompo_2.jpg
www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_InsiemeCompoRame.jpg
www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_Montato.jpg
www.saviot.com/BrassaturaCasalinga/PcbBirraDefinitivi/OpenArdBirOC_Montato2.jpg

Def


Code:


// sensor and lcd
OneWire ds(7);
LiquidCrystal lcd(A4, A5, 2, 3, 4, 5);

// push buttons
const char Button_dn    = A3;
const char Button_up    = A2;
const char Button_enter = A1;
const char Button_start = A0;

// outputs
const byte Pump = 6;
const byte Buzz = 8;
const byte Heat = 9;


----------



## mojonojo

MaxN68 said:


> Reply to 1-2
> Thanks for the recommendations to improve the writing of this manual.
> I'm providing for the correction of errors, but also to improve the translation of ArdBir.
> As suggested by Arnie the menu "Manage Settings" will be changed to "Manage Recipes."
> Again in the menu Manage Recipes I've added a couple of functions in the process of entering the name of the recipe:
> 1) START button allows you to go back one character to correct
> (This feature is already present but not indicated in the manual)
> 2) UP + DOWN finish entering the name automatically adding the missing spaces to complete the length of the name.
> 
> In addition to these changes I also fixed the break with confirmation " iodine test" retaining only volumes one.
> 
> As soon as I finished the corrections let you know the update of the manual and firmware
> 
> 
> Reply to 4
> 
> We are currently occupying 99% of the resources Arduino.
> I tried to load the SD library to manage the recipes but the space required is far beyond the 32K without a single line of code to handle then the recipes.
> 
> 
> Reply to 5
> If you want to try to free space, you can remove the sprite initial and the credits
> 
> The ArdBir sprite at start i called by *ArdBir()* in line 1636
> The Credits are called by
> *if (btn_Press(Button_dn,50))setupMenu = 4; *in line
> and the entire section that goes from row 1592 to row 1597
> 
> 
> case(4):
> Menu_3_5();
> if (btn_Press(Button_start,50))setupLoop=false;
> if (btn_Press(Button_up,50))setupMenu = 3;
> if (btn_Press(Button_enter,50))Credits();
> break;
> 
> This solution frees 1000bytes
> 
> In addition to this I have noticed a considerable difference if you compile with different operating systems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to compile with Lubuntu and I got these results
> 
> Lubuntu vs Windows XP = 852bytes
> OSX Windows XP vx = 48bytes
> 
> 
> Trying to compile as I've explained this result: 29.806!!!


I did almost exactly this on monday to get the shield to upload to my arduino.


----------



## tateg

seem to get the following error when trying to update


avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x7800
0xe1 != 0xff
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

any ideas?

cheers tate


----------



## MaxN68

Avr is a collection of utility.
I don't have never used this for loading code in Arduino, is the first time I read of such the problem
I use Arduino IDE and don't have any problem


----------



## tateg

MaxN68 said:


> Avr is a collection of utility.
> I don't have never used this for loading code in Arduino, is the first time I read of such the problem
> I use Arduino IDE and don't have any problem


must have been an issue with the arduino UNO I was using, grabbed the spare one and all worked well

One question I do have a PID settings is, has any one thought of included autotune library as per this site http://brettbeauregard.com/blog/2012/01/arduino-pid-autotune-library/
I seem to struggle with what settings to go with


----------



## SkyNaras

tateg said:


> seem to get the following error when trying to update
> 
> 
> avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x7800
> 0xe1 != 0xff
> avrdude: verification error; content mismatch
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> cheers tate










I have the same problem:
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00


----------



## SkyNaras

SkyNaras said:


> I have the same problem:
> avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00


Sorry, trouble in my usb port. All is ok.


----------



## bonj

tateg said:


> must have been an issue with the arduino UNO I was using, grabbed the spare one and all worked well
> 
> One question I do have a PID settings is, has any one thought of included autotune library as per this site http://brettbeauregard.com/blog/2012/01/arduino-pid-autotune-library/
> I seem to struggle with what settings to go with


I implemented this exact autotune library on my Mashturbator HERMS controller, and it's almost completely useless. You need to tune the autotune. It's actually easier to get tuning parameters by following any of the many guides out there on the internet. I used this one and had good results: PID without a PhD


----------



## JackOfShadows

MaxN68 said:


> In addition to this I have noticed a considerable difference if you compile with different operating systems.
> 
> 
> I tried to compile with Lubuntu and I got these results
> 
> Lubuntu vs Windows XP = 852bytes
> OSX Windows XP vx = 48bytes
> 
> 
> Trying to compile as I've explained this result: 29.806!!!


Hi Max,

1. Thanks, after removing credits we've managed to get 30662 bytes байт from 30720 maximum under Windows.

2. For sources 2.6.61k, PCBs and Italian/English manuals - why don't you put them all to GitHub?

3. I've completed Russian manual and will send it to you in several days, after finishing styling. Maybe you'll also upload it to GitHub?

4. Braudino PCBs archive in your signature does not contain circuit diagram. Maybe you'll put it to GitHub as well - to have a complete project there?


----------



## MaxN68

Hi

1) 
2) GitHub accept only .txt format
3) I have a new version (2.6.62) and related manual. coming soon
4) I have to check, the web space where there is not my PCB and is managed directly by SavioTecnich. However, we have prepared a new version of the PCB without the pump relay on board

We're working to make sure that everything is easy to use. 
We tested the hypothesis handle everything through the website to be able to collect the entire project in one space.


----------



## elpiratilla

Necesidad de descargar alguna biblioteca especificada para un LCD de 20x4?
I have this:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/251131920975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
gracias


----------



## MaxN68

You do not need any specific library, you just configure the firmware for the 20x4 display as described in the manual


----------



## elpiratilla

Solved, that I get for not reading my manual. 
It was just changing the settings from Arduino. 
Sorry.


----------



## MaxN68

Hello to all
In recent days I have had a hand in code, and I made some small corrections .
I have corrected the errors reported for the manual and I upgraded to these little novelty.
We got to try the new revision directly on baked and we only found a small display error also correct.
They are then able to free up more space in the version for display 16x2 coming to occupy 31620 (compiled with Win XP).
I also added the pinout of the new PCB ArdBir forthcoming.

But then where I live ( Senigallia) is a successful disaster.
We were hit by a sudden, violent storm that did overflows the river at two points submerging much of the city with 2 feet of water and mud.
I have fortunately been saved from this tragedy but my friends do not.
I have so little time to test your code because I'm dedicating free time to help my friends who have lost almost everything.

We will then send the link of the *Code *and *Manual *and you hope you have the time that I lack to make a summary and tell me debug any errors or inaccuracies .


----------



## JackOfShadows

Hi Max,

Thanks for your work.

Surely friends are of most importance. Beer will wait, we also.


----------



## djar007

Thoughts are with you max. Terrible news.


----------



## real_beer

All the best to your friends Max. I'll be doing a first run to test my malt pipe this coming weekend, so I'll let you know how it all goes doing a complete brew.

Cheers


----------



## xredwood

I am in the process of ordering one of the Brauduino kits from Lael and have been looking at the updated features on the ArdBir. What is involved in converting a Brauduino to an ArdBir? I haven't done anything with an Arduino before so if you could spell out the steps involved it would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers


----------



## real_beer

xredwood said:


> I am in the process of ordering one of the Brauduino kits from Lael and have been looking at the updated features on the ArdBir. What is involved in converting a Brauduino to an ArdBir? I haven't done anything with an Arduino before so if you could spell out the steps involved it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Cheers


Just upload the code 5 posts above


----------



## lehtinel

Im having initial problems with my controller build. Assembled the controller pcb and attached the LCD and Andruino Uno. The Uno had the original mathos programming on it to begin with, but I cold not get the LCD to power on. The system was powered via USB on the Uno.

I programmed the ArBir in the Uno but had no change to the behavior. I don't have anything else than the Led's hooked up to the sheild. Is this a problem?

I can measure about 4.20v at the power input when the system has USB power.


----------



## real_beer

lehtinel said:


> Im having initial problems with my controller build. Assembled the controller pcb and attached the LCD and Andruino Uno. The Uno had the original mathos programming on it to begin with, but I cold not get the LCD to power on. The system was powered via USB on the Uno.
> 
> I programmed the ArBir in you the Uno but had no change to the behavior. I don't have anything else than the Led's hooked up to the sheild. Is this a problem?
> 
> I can measure about 4.20v at the power input when the system has USB power.


Have you tried turning the little trim pot with a screwdriver, it can have a big effect and maybe all that's wrong.


----------



## lehtinel

real_beer said:


> Have you tried turning the little trim pot with a screwdriver, it can have a big effect and maybe all that's wrong.


That was it! Love the simple solution :super: 

Onwards with the rest of the build.

Cheers!


----------



## lehtinel

Although I got the LCD working and the controls seem okay, I think my backlight in off for the LCD. It is very hard to read. Anything I need to change in the code to enable it? I run ArdBir now.


----------



## MaxN68

With the display I use (RGB) I had the same problem. 
I solved by excluding the resistance on the circuit with a direct bridge as the display board had resistance on board. 
I do not know if your case is similar to mine, you should understand that the display you are using.


----------



## lehtinel

MaxN68 said:


> With the display I use (RGB) I had the same problem.
> I solved by excluding the resistance on the circuit with a direct bridge as the display board had resistance on board.
> I do not know if your case is similar to mine, you should understand that the display you are using.


Thanks for your reply and work with the development too! As I uderstand the LCD backlight is controlled trough pins 15 and 16 on the LCD board, labelled A and K. With the original Bramuiser connection I can measure 2.2v between these points. 

I don't know how to work around the problem, would not like to start desoldering the 16-pin connection of the LCD as that really is a pain to get off.


----------



## lehtinel

The display Im using is this: 

http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/lcd/lcd-16-2-backlight-blue


Would it be possible to lower the value of R6 on the Braumiser board? It's the 120ohm resistor that sits before pin 15.


----------



## MaxN68

The problem in my case was this: 
The display on board its resistance and therefore the resistance on the pcb is in fact the sum and lowers the voltage again. 
I did not remove the resistance on the pcb, I just soldered a jumper wire to pass current directly


----------



## lael

lehtinel said:


> Although I got the LCD working and the controls seem okay, I think my backlight in off for the LCD. It is very hard to read. Anything I need to change in the code to enable it? I run ArdBir now.


HI lehtinel - when I was building one I got some resistors swapped and had a similar issue. I think I'd swapped R8 and R6 - they're stripes are fairly similar. Everything worked fine... but it was like the backlight was off.


----------



## lehtinel

MaxN68 said:


> The problem in my case was this:
> The display on board its resistance and therefore the resistance on the pcb is in fact the sum and lowers the voltage again.
> I did not remove the resistance on the pcb, I just soldered a jumper wire to pass current directly


Okay, I understand. I could achieve a similar effect by lowering or jumpering the resistor on the PCB, right?




lael said:


> HI lehtinel - when I was building one I got some resistors swapped and had a similar issue. I think I'd swapped R8 and R6 - they're stripes are fairly similar. Everything worked fine... but it was like the backlight was off.


Checked mine and they seem to be the right ones, Im pretty certain as I had to go out and buy them separately as I managed not to order them in my main part order.

Any guru opinions on jumpering or lowering R6?


----------



## SkyNaras

Hi,
I had a problem with the LCD screen character "running" was used with 220V pump.
Solves this problem already. Was guilty of the pump control relay.
Instead mechanical relay, I used a SSR relay type S202S02F. I just want to warn that the relay control voltage is 1,4V
More with this problem is not exposed.

Sorry for my english


----------



## saviothecnic

For whoever wrote that has problems with LCD
I am not sure what card you have
post a picture of the card above and below so I know you understand and help


Italy
Se dovete costruire adesso o anche se avete gia costruito consiglio sempre LCD 20x4 retroilluminazione verde
Io ho comprato qui
http://www.ebay.it/itm/291024608606?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Eng
If you need to build now or even if you have already built always recommend 20x4 LCD backlight green

I bought here
http://www.ebay.it/itm/291024608606?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Tradotto ENG Good Day,

I answer and add this note to all those who have asked for more about PCB reworked by DanielXan

You have only graphic files in BMP that are present in the packages that we have Linked

There are NO wiring diagrams or other type vector files or Gerber because DanielXan drew starting
directly from the side Copper wiring diagram of reference is that of the original Brauduino
where it was only changed the Pin Out to facilitate the routing

So useless to keep asking other formats of the PCB

If someone is able to do so can reshape it and put the Gerber files or other formats we can not fail to please smiley-grin

Thanks PS are well appreciated by the users info about any bugs or suggestions in the use of the program

In Italiano

Buon Giorno,

Rispondo e aggiungo questa nota per tutti quegli che hanno chiesto info sui PCB Rielaborati da DanielXan

Si hanno solo i files grafici in formato BMP che sono presenti nei pachetti che vi abbiamo Linkato

NON ci sono schemi elettrici o files di altra natura tipo vettoriali o Gerber perche DanielXan ha disegnato partendo
direttamente dal lato Rame lo schema elettrico di riferimento è quello del Brauduino originale
dove è stato solo modificato il Pin Out per agevolare lo sbroglio

[SIZE=10pt]*Quindi inutile che continuate a chiedere altri formati del PCB*[/SIZE]​
Se qualcuno è in grado di farlo puo ridisegnarlo e mettere il files Gerber o in altri formati a noi non puo che far piacere






Grazie P.S sono ben graditi info dagli utilizzatori su eventuali Bug o Suggerimenti nel uso del programma


----------



## stevemc32

Are the ArdBir manuals still available, the dropbox links to both the Italian and English versions have been disabled.


----------



## MaxN68

In signature the link are related at old version.
I have posted the correct link many post ahead.
The new version is 2.6.62e
The signature are corrected now.
I'm sorry but I do not have too much time to do all the corrections, I thought that the publication of the links in the thread was already sufficient.


----------



## stevemc32

Cheers MaxN68, I did try the link that you posted on 6th May but didn't have any success with that one or the facebook links.

Thank you for updating them, it is much appreciated.


----------



## lael

Someone told me today that drop box have stopped allowing pinks to files. That might be the issue. I think the idea someone posted to put the files on github might be a good idea... Also means many people can contribute changes easily.


----------



## MaxN68

I just tried the link of firmware and manuals and everything works. 
As soon as I have a moment of time I try to update the entire repository on GitHub. 
Have patience but the days between work and friends to help affected by the flooding are really full


----------



## lael

I don't think there is a massive rush for anyone. When you are able. Friends and family come first.


----------



## lehtinel

lael said:


> I don't think there is a massive rush for anyone. When you are able. Friends and family come first.


Ditto that. Taking it easy is the way to go.


----------



## MaxN68

Update Repository GitHub


----------



## bonj

Max, there's something surreal about undergoing a local crisis like a flood and having external pressure that doesn't understand what you're going through. I just want you to know that many of us do understand what you're going through, having had flooding and cleanups a couple of times in the past few years. Thanks for going to the extra effort. We don't expect you to go that extra mile, so I for one really appreciate it. I also want to thank you and everyone else that has made this project take on a life of its own. It's great to see.


----------



## MaxN68

We made a team effort .
Our project was born from Arzman all that with his clone gave us a big input to inizizare to do.
Saviotechnic and I started separately and without knowing to look for something on the web to be able to monitor this project and we both got to know Brauduino .
Saviotechnic was involved in the electronics, and along with others attempted Birraduino the road , but the project stalled for a flat rate of those who had to deal with the code .
DanielXan has greatly helped with the development of the PCB.
At this point the project had been standing in nothing .
I tried to take it back in the hands I studied me for the C and the Arduino as I could and I started to change .
They then come to know another job done always starting from Brauduino and another that changed and resolved issues related to the hops, but it was in ° F.
I put everything back together trying to make everything modular and configurable .
And the result is ArdBir .
The rest of the team is made by people who have made ​​their contribution by testing on several occasions written code : Alessio , Luciano and Piero .

Now I hope that all our work will like it and you can help us make it perfect especially trying to eliminate any errors.

What we have done has led to the saturation of the resources of Arduino Uno , every upgrade is in fact impossible , but even so it should be all that is needed .


----------



## lael

Thinking about running two ssrs to run two heating elements. Masters told me it is ok according to matho (that the output from the brauduino can run multiple SSRs for the heating), so I'm tempted to do it... mostly just because I can, but also because I'm tempted to have two elements inside the pot IF I can work out how to make it work / fit. Power would come into the box on the left and go to the heat / pump. Secondary heating comes in on the right to ssr and output just left of it.

first question - if the second ssr is not being used (no AC) will it still get hot? (will still be connected to the heat ports, so still being switched.)

second question - is it ok to place them this close together (right next to each other).
I'm thinking about using a heatsink like: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200801372125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

anyone have experience / knowledge about this?

any other thoughts / comments?


----------



## lael

Max - I just downloaded the files fine from dropbox FYI.


----------



## xredwood

I'm trying to source a 20x4 LCD screen that will work with Matho's/Lael's kit running ArdBir that ships out of Australia that will just plug and play without having to do anything except what's included in the ArdBir manual to change it to the 20x4 display. I'm a little out of my depth but I found this one below, can anyone tell me if it will work? 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181375440035


----------



## lael

yeah, any of the 20x4 on ebay should work. the hd44780 is the controller you need (which they all use).

Provided you are willing to wait:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-2004-204-20X4-Character-LCD-Display-Module-Blue-Blacklight-For-Arduino-/271061312409?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3f1c836399

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-2004-204-20X4-Character-LCD-Module-Display-For-Arduino-/190671615309?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item2c64e9f54d


----------



## zwitter

Hi Lael

I see no electrical reason that 2 SSRs cant be used other than the power sockets you are using are probably only good for 10-12 Amps and elements of 2400w draw 10 Amps each. So you would need to either up the input to a 15amp type socket or better or have 2 inputs and split the heaters on separate circuits, so one 240v ac input goes to one SSR and the second to the other SSR. Then see if you can plug them into different circuits in your brew area.

The connectors are physically very close together so will not be much plastic to hold them in place.. A decent wiggle getting the plugs in or out may crack the case.

You could mount the second SSR in a second housing and just have the signal wire come to a small socket and then across to the second SSR.

I was surprised when I first saw the board that a second SSR or triac had not been used for the pump. I guess the relay is better suited for 12v dc pumps. (Triacs are for AC only)

Regards
James

quote name="lael" post="1171921" timestamp="1399679943"]Thinking about running two ssrs to run two heating elements. Masters told me it is ok according to matho (that the output from the brauduino can run multiple SSRs for the heating), so I'm tempted to do it... mostly just because I can, but also because I'm tempted to have two elements inside the pot IF I can work out how to make it work / fit. Power would come into the box on the left and go to the heat / pump. Secondary heating comes in on the right to ssr and output just left of it.

first question - if the second ssr is not being used (no AC) will it still get hot? (will still be connected to the heat ports, so still being switched.)

second question - is it ok to place them this close together (right next to each other).
I'm thinking about using a heatsink like: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200801372125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

anyone have experience / knowledge about this?

any other thoughts / comments?[/quote]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MastersBrewery

I was thinking the same regarding a second box. I was think down the old brewtroller method of having all low voltage in one and all high voltage in another with signal wires conecting. In this scenario I was going to use a third SSR for the pump thus decoupling it from the controller further.

MB


----------



## lael

zwitter said:


> Hi Lael
> 
> I see no electrical reason that 2 SSRs cant be used other than the power sockets you are using are probably only good for 10-12 Amps and elements of 2400w draw 10 Amps each. So you would need to either up the input to a 15amp type socket or better or have 2 inputs and split the heaters on separate circuits, so one 240v ac input goes to one SSR and the second to the other SSR. Then see if you can plug them into different circuits in your brew area.
> 
> Excellent - thats the plan - one on left, one on the right.
> 
> The connectors are physically very close together so will not be much plastic to hold them in place.. A decent wiggle getting the plugs in or out may crack the case. - I was wondering about that too..
> 
> You could mount the second SSR in a second housing and just have the signal wire come to a small socket and then across to the second SSR. - good idea. I would like one case though. I might stick with the one SSR... not that passionate about having two elements mounted in the pot. I need to check ramp times on my big system though.
> 
> I was surprised when I first saw the board that a second SSR or triac had not been used for the pump. I guess the relay is better suited for 12v dc pumps. (Triacs are for AC only) I think some of the Italian guys may have mentioned they were making changes to this on the ArdBir version?... I'm not sure. It does work well though. I'm using a kaixin pump without issues.
> 
> Regards
> James


----------



## neo__04

In regards to this, and having a second enclosure... I was thinking as an addon to mathos controller, I was playing with the idea of having a flow meter and 12v solenoid to control the strike water. Got an arduino script running which counts current flow of water and accumulative total.

Im thinking of having another arduino uno with screen in a seperate enclosure to serve a few different purposes. Lets call it an add on.
It can do strike water in, maybe some programming for a hop dropper at various stages of boil...

Anyone done anything similar?


----------



## MastersBrewery

Neo__04 said:


> In regards to this, and having a second enclosure... I was thinking as an addon to mathos controller, I was playing with the idea of having a flow meter and 12v solenoid to control the strike water. Got an arduino script running which counts current flow of water and accumulative total.
> 
> Im thinking of having another arduino uno with screen in a seperate enclosure to serve a few different purposes. Lets call it an add on.
> It can do strike water in, maybe some programming for a hop dropper at various stages of boil...
> 
> Anyone done anything similar?


I think the hop dropper is quite ambitious, but most of the work is already coded for hop additions, so instead of sounding an alarm you could have it fire one of the spare pins, so no need for a second controller for that. Unfortunately I don't think there would be enough space to run code for a flow meter though.
from memory matho said there were 2 spare pins available, so actuating a device to drop hops should be a piece of cake!


----------



## neo__04

yeah, well thats a fair point, didnt think of working it in with the original code. I know the memory is basically maxed out, thats why i was going to run it on a seperate uno.


----------



## MastersBrewery

I think if you dropped the credits, and it was just a matter of firing a pulse, the code would probably fit. But motor control and the like I think would be out.


----------



## MaxN68

If you compile from linux there should be enough space. 
All tests compilation that I did not give me a difference of space between Lubuntu and Windows equal to 852bytes, there is just to understand what it is used (libraries, hardware, etc.)


----------



## saviothecnic

Italy
Fatemi capire bene cosa volete fare.
Un Idea che si puo avere è :
Premetto che gia sto pensando ad UN PCB avanzato
che montera Arduino Mega 2560

Volendo dato che gestiamo 10 Luppoli basta che al programma si dice che ad ogni luppolo alza un uscita divera nel 2560 non abbiamo problemi di uscite
E ad ogni luppolo si collega un dosatore come questo

Oppure volete usare Luppoli liquidi in quel caso il tutto è piu compatto e basta 10 tubi comandati da 10 solenoidi On-Off il pcb hw sarebbe identico

ENG Tradotto google








Let me understand what you want to do.
An idea that you can have is:
I state that I'm already thinking of advanced PCB A that will mount the Arduino Mega 2560

Wanting given that we manage 10 hops just that the program is said to every hop up an exit scouted in 2560 we do not have problems outputs
And at every hop you connect a dispenser like this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=1IwfZIiVXiA#t=205

You want to use liquid hops in that case the whole is more compact and just 10 tubes 10 solenoids controlled by the On-Off pcb hw would be identical


----------



## booargy

unfinished control box second with 20x4. Mega fits Brauduino but not in box.


----------



## arzaman

Little bit squeezed but everything is in including LCD 20x4


----------



## lael

arzaman said:


> Little bit squeezed but everything is in including LCD 20x4


Doesn't the SSR get hot without a heatsink?


----------



## lael

Booargy - might be worth trying: https://digilentinc.com/Products/Detail.cfm?NavPath=2,892,893&Prod=CHIPKIT-UNO32


----------



## lehtinel

Got my controller going properly: 






Issue with the LCD backlight was a short on the LCD unit, where the backlight runs over the PCB edge, an image to show the point:


----------



## booargy

lael said:


> Booargy - might be worth trying: https://digilentinc.com/Products/Detail.cfm?NavPath=2,892,893&Prod=CHIPKIT-UNO32


I have a PCduino but I am thinking the mega is better for the code side of things. I have a nice shiny stainless sloped top enclosure for the final build and 7" touch screen would be nice.
Funny I was setting up for 100L batches in 3V have all the pots but small things grow into big things. but then I need to build a crane.


----------



## arzaman

lael said:


> Doesn't the SSR get hot without a heatsink?


Indeed the SSR is mounted on a DIN rail that in some way works as an heatsink.
In my preliminary test with 2.5kw heating element / 220v AC and PWM duty cycle of 4s the SSR became slightly warm

Davide


----------



## arzaman

Neo__04 said:


> Im thinking of having another arduino uno with screen in a seperate enclosure to serve a few different purposes. Lets call it an add on.
> It can do strike water in, maybe some programming for a hop dropper at various stages of boil...
> 
> Anyone done anything similar?


We have discussed this couple of requirements (water level control and automatic hop dropping) few times also in Italian project but at the end of the day we declare this feature as "nice to have" focusing on the core and basic feature producing a powerful and easy to use no frill sw and as max stated reaching the limit of UNO platform

In principle a part from memory constrain but requirements can be "easly " accommodated

For the flow control the main issue is related to the low precision offered by low cost flow meter based on digital encoder.
Other technique based on pressure sensor or ultrasonic volume measurement are more complicated

On hop dropper the logic is already present and all the hop additions are addressed (now just drive the buzzer) so is not so difficult to drive a servo or a relay or another actuator. I think main complexity is on mechanical part...unless I have seen somewhere on the net such a mechanism.

Let's see how project will evolve the important thing is that you provide us your feedback in order to fix any residual bug on current version and any suggestions for new features

Stay tuned
Davide


----------



## elpiratilla

It's not finished but it is lagging mine.


----------



## elpiratilla

Questions: Do we have the PCB Matho you can replace the LCD 16x2 20x4 LCD by using the code ArdBir?


----------



## MaxN68

For replace the LCD you need... a 20x4 LCD Display


----------



## elpiratilla

MaxN68 said:


> For replace the LCD you need... a 20x4 LCD Display


Thank you very much, as I said I have the pcb matho in a previous team and put the lcd 20x4. Greetings.


----------



## lael

booargy said:


> I have a PCduino but I am thinking the mega is better for the code side of things. I have a nice shiny stainless sloped top enclosure for the final build and 7" touch screen would be nice.
> Funny I was setting up for 100L batches in 3V have all the pots but small things grow into big things. but then I need to build a crane.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140511_223454.jpg


your pots look great! What sizes and where did you get them?


----------



## lael

lehtinel said:


> Got my controller going properly:


Looks great! Where did you get the cool LCD frame thing? (I realise you are in a different country... but if you know the real name for it that would be awesome) and I know of a few others from the UK that are building them.


----------



## lael

arzaman said:


> Indeed the SSR is mounted on a DIN rail that in some way works as an heatsink.
> In my preliminary test with 2.5kw heating element / 220v AC and PWM duty cycle of 4s the SSR became slightly warm
> 
> Davide


Interesting! is the 4s PWM duty cycle standard in the ArdBir code? I might run a full cycle through using the code and compare..


----------



## elpiratilla

For Italians, I want to buy here http://www.polsinelli.it/es/ pots and shipping to Spain. 
Do you have good references? 
Greetings and thanks.


----------



## booargy

lael said:


> your pots look great! What sizes and where did you get them?


the 150L everyone has been talking about and the craft brewer 100L. I am thinking only drama is lifting


----------



## arzaman

lael said:


> Interesting! is the 4s PWM duty cycle standard in the ArdBir code? I might run a full cycle through using the code and compare..


The PWM duty cycle time base as reported in the user manual (PID parameter section) is fully configurable in the 1000 to 7500 ms range
The right value depends on so many factor basically linked to thermodynamic characteristics of the assembly like heating element power and inertia, thermal insulation...
In some way it should be tuned , like other PID parameters, empirically


----------



## lael

booargy said:


> the 150L everyone has been talking about and the craft brewer 100L. I am thinking only drama is lifting


lol - awesome. You actually did it! 

Just a word of warning before you put holes in the craftbrewer pot... the *smallest *batch size you can do with those two pots is about... 80L - I didn't do the calcs on the spreadsheet because it really was just for fun when I posted it. The difficulty is that you have to fluidise a 100L pot... which means 100L (plus the water to cover your elements) minus the volume of water that your grain bill displaces.

So... don't stone me for being sacrilegious... but if I was to consider wanting to do batches this size... I might consider an alternative route that might be more flexible - set up the system more as a two vessel system. Have the 100L pot as your mash tun with a stainless false bottom (just like you would have as a malt pipe), and use the big kettle as your reservoir. Still pump reverse flow (bottom up), and have a 1" outlet on the side of the brew kettle at the top that flows back into the brew kettle / reservoir. Same amount of pumps and heating - in the brew kettle. Same amount of stainless plates required etc. But - not the lifting required, and you don't need a whopping hole in the 100L pot. Yes, it would reduce your grain capacity a little.

So why?... well... if you want to make a smaller batch - I would guess that if you designed it correctly, you could use the 100L pot as the outer pot and then have another malt pipe that goes inside that pot. Thinking aloud here - I guess the issues are you would need heating elements for ramping and the plumbing for that. Alternately you could put multiple bulkheads down the side of the mash tun for different size grain bills... which would allow lower fluid levels (wait... would a siphon system of some sort work?)

ok, so just some thoughts. Now - carry on!

Edit: the spreadsheet shows the minimum batch sizes and max batch sizes possible if you went the traditional brau set up route. 

View attachment 150L pot Braumiser Volumes.xls


----------



## MastersBrewery

lael said:


> lol - awesome. You actually did it!
> 
> Just a word of warning before you put holes in the craftbrewer pot... the *smallest *batch size you can do with those two pots is about... 80L - I didn't do the calcs on the spreadsheet because it really was just for fun when I posted it. The difficulty is that you have to fluidise a 100L pot... which means 100L (plus the water to cover your elements) minus the volume of water that your grain bill displaces.
> 
> So... don't stone me for being sacrilegious... but if I was to consider wanting to do batches this size... I might consider an alternative route that might be more flexible - set up the system more as a two vessel system. Have the 100L pot as your mash tun with a stainless false bottom (just like you would have as a malt pipe), and use the big kettle as your reservoir. Still pump reverse flow (bottom up), and have a 1" outlet on the side of the brew kettle at the top that flows back into the brew kettle / reservoir. Same amount of pumps and heating - in the brew kettle. Same amount of stainless plates required etc. But - not the lifting required, and you don't need a whopping hole in the 100L pot. Yes, it would reduce your grain capacity a little.
> 
> So why?... well... if you want to make a smaller batch - I would guess that if you designed it correctly, you could use the 100L pot as the outer pot and then have another malt pipe that goes inside that pot. Thinking aloud here - I guess the issues are you would need heating elements for ramping and the plumbing for that. Alternately you could put multiple bulkheads down the side of the mash tun for different size grain bills... which would allow lower fluid levels (wait... would a siphon system of some sort work?)
> 
> ok, so just some thoughts. Now - carry on!
> 
> Edit: the spreadsheet shows the minimum batch sizes and max batch sizes possible if you went the traditional brau set up route.


I have to agee with this to some extent if going this sort of size I would (and still may) go down the path Jonathan and the Blichmann brew easy obviously still using mathos controller. If you used the blichmann auto sparge on a similar setup to beer bellys mash return dish your batch volume could be pretty much changed at will.

MB


----------



## lehtinel

lael said:


> Looks great! Where did you get the cool LCD frame thing? (I realise you are in a different country... but if you know the real name for it that would be awesome) and I know of a few others from the UK that are building them.


It's this one: http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/lcd-bezel-16x2?keyword=lcd%20bezel

You could find a more local source by googling Lcd Bezel 16x2 etc., that's how I found this one. I cut out all the taps and mounting stuff and just glued it flat to the case. Dirt cheap, very effective. No way I was gonna have my 'Dremel drill carved LCD mount' visible. :beerbang:


----------



## booargy

I will start another topic so I don't derail this one.


----------



## zwitter

A technical Arduino programming question. I must say I ask after many hours of seeking enlightenment on the web without success.
i will say I make my living in electronics and embedded systems. Currently in medical but has been gaming before. Never liked the SW side.

I had the Brauduino up and running with Local SW and a 16x2 LCD. But I always want the best and decided to go for the ArdBir and silly me swapped the LCD to 20x4 (silly me made 2 changes simultaneously!

Well I managed to find all the libraries and get the sketch to compile after making choices. But when I upload to the UNO that I received with the Braduino kit I get this

Binary sketch size: 32,156 bytes (of a 32,256 byte maximum)
avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x7800
0x00 != 0xff
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

Now I would think 7800 is almost at the top end of the 32k in the memory map. 7fff = 32K

So A few ideas as to the cause.
1 The sketch is too big probably as I have an extra library included?
2 The Uno is faulty?
3 I am just getting too old for this !

I am running latest Arduino SW and under Windows 7, 64 bit.

I did try loading into a freetronics ëleven"and it actually seems to work with no errors, and did put up the correct display on the 20x4, but it belongs in an educational kit.
I successfully laded a simple blink sketch into the problematic UNO and it works but is a very small file.

Any ideas?

I guess I can order another UNO and try that?

I have heard others doing this successfully

james


----------



## neo__04

What version arduino uno do you have? Version 3 or an earlier one?


----------



## MastersBrewery

check you haven't included both 20x4 and 16x2 librarys, you could also try deleting credits or compiling on a Unbunto or similar system or all of those


----------



## zwitter

Hi Neo__04 & MastersBrewery

I have the UNO R3

I did try rem ing out the credits and graphics. And only the 20x4 library.
And it works perfectly on the Freetronics ëleven"UNO clone.

I tried reloading USB drivers , checking libraries etc but still no go on the UNO R3


Bed time

James


----------



## MaxN68

To prevent malfunction due to the different mapping of ArdBir EEPROM it is recommended that the correct setting of PID parameters and UNIT parameters before using the manual or automatic mode for brewing


----------



## lael

James, I don't think your issue is the size. I think it is something else. From memory I've had the same error when using the latest version of the arduino ide, but it has worked fine with 1.0.3. I don't know why, and honestly didn't bother to look into it....


----------



## lael

James, I don't think your issue is the size. I think it is something else. From memory I've had the same error when using the latest version of the arduino ide, but it has worked fine with 1.0.3. I don't know why, and honestly didn't bother to look into it....


----------



## lael

A few people have asked about where to get the temp probe as the old eBay link expired. 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3m-Digital-Thermal-Tank-Sensor-Horizontal-DS18B20-/230699845438?pt=US_Weather_Meters&hash=item35b6c8473e is currently valid. 

From the supplier website: 
http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=1276 which is slightly cheaper if you buy 3 or more from.memory...


----------



## MaxN68

elpiratilla said:


> For Italians, I want to buy here http://www.polsinelli.it/es/ pots and shipping to Spain.
> Do you have good references?
> Greetings and thanks.


I have buy *this* for external vessel (Ø40x45) and a 33Lt vessel (Ø35x35) for malt pipe.


----------



## real_beer

lael said:


> A few people have asked about where to get the temp probe as the old eBay link expired.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3m-Digital-Thermal-Tank-Sensor-Horizontal-DS18B20-/230699845438?pt=US_Weather_Meters&hash=item35b6c8473e is currently valid.


I always smile when I visit these links and see numbers like '247 sold', then wonder how many have been ordered by the 'Matho's Controller' enthusiasts


----------



## lael

real_beer said:


> I always smile when I visit these links and see numbers like '247 sold', then wonder how many have been ordered by the 'Matho's Controller' enthusiasts


lol, I think I've bought about ten of them... stepped on the cord for a couple and destroyed them before I started wrapping the lead around one of the skin fittings, and have four spare... for $10 each it's worth having them laying around is my philosophy.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Lael, Neo_04, Masters Brewery

I have found the cause of my compile and download problem.

It is the Arduino Uno r3 supplied by Lael!!!

I tried using an older version of the compiler - same error
I tried 2 other Uno clones and they both work fine with no errors.
I loaded other small sketches into the Uno and they work with no errors.

I may replace the Mega chip and see if it just the chip but Uno can be bought for so little it seems like a waste of time...

I had bought the Uno with the original code installed with the kit and it did power up and put the expected data on a 2x16 LCD but just will not download the ArdBir file. Compile works and it does appear to download but the verify after download shows an error.

So i have put the Uno clone I bought in and it all works with 4x20 LCD 

I have spent soo long messing with this thing now...dreaming about them! 

Happy to assist anyone who wants to build one or upgrade the LCD.

Thanks for the assistance team.

regards
james


----------



## arzaman

zwitter said:


> So i have put the Uno clone I bought in and it all works with 4x20 LCD
> 
> I have spent soo long messing with this thing now...dreaming about them!
> 
> Happy to assist anyone who wants to build one or upgrade the LCD.
> 
> Thanks for the assistance team.
> 
> regards
> james


Very happy that at the end of the day you succeed in having your ArdBir up an running with 20x4 LCD and you like it..it's really a big improvement and we are thinking to set as default option

Did you explore the full set of new features? Any feedback or request?

Ciao
Davide


----------



## neo__04

glad to hear you got it going. My suggestion was going to be that it could be due to being a earlier uno version. In this case, that wasnt the problem it seems.

I had a version 1 uno here i was going to copy the code to and it cant due to having a weird bug taking anything over 30k. Later Uno versions dont have the same problem.


----------



## neo__04

With the PCB diagrams supplied my MaxN68, they are bmp pics.
Is that something you can supply to a manufacturer to get a pcb made? Or do you need a pcb file generated from some sort of program?

Also if i remember correctly on the original board of mathos, there was a couple of inputs/outputs free?
Could you modify the board to utilize these if you had the pcb file?

I know nothing about pcb manufacture etc, just thinking of tinkering with a couple of features, so i need another board anyway..

Any advice would be great


----------



## lael

zwitter said:


> Hi Lael, Neo_04, Masters Brewery
> 
> I have found the cause of my compile and download problem.
> 
> It is the Arduino Uno r3 supplied by Lael!!!
> 
> I tried using an older version of the compiler - same error
> I tried 2 other Uno clones and they both work fine with no errors.
> I loaded other small sketches into the Uno and they work with no errors.
> 
> I may replace the Mega chip and see if it just the chip but Uno can be bought for so little it seems like a waste of time...
> 
> I had bought the Uno with the original code installed with the kit and it did power up and put the expected data on a 2x16 LCD but just will not download the ArdBir file. Compile works and it does appear to download but the verify after download shows an error.
> 
> So i have put the Uno clone I bought in and it all works with 4x20 LCD
> 
> I have spent soo long messing with this thing now...dreaming about them!
> 
> Happy to assist anyone who wants to build one or upgrade the LCD.
> 
> Thanks for the assistance team.
> 
> regards
> james


Hi James,

Glad it's working now. Can you send me the uno and I'll swap it out for a new one? Sorry for the hassle! (or if you are in the area, message me).

Lael


----------



## dca

Neo - For all the PCB mfgrs I have worked with, the PCB layout files need to be in a Gerber file format. Not sure if there is a way to convert a BMP. 

If anyone wants to modify the circuit design, the schematic & PCB source files need to be made available in some format that is compatible with one of the free schematic capture / PCB design packages out there. The .BMP files can let a designer see how things were laid out and replicate it in their own design package of choice. 

There are free Gerber viewers out there as well to just view the PCB layer files, if made available. Not sure if the intent is to make this an open h/w project. 

Also missing is the drill that provides the sizing of each of the holes. This is also required for fabrication. 

Dave A.


----------



## saviothecnic

In Italiano

Il lavoro che è stato fatto da DanielXan sotto mia richiesta
è per avere un PCB singola faccia rame facile da fare in casa
con metodi artigianali il tutto per costare ancora meno

Sul mio sito spiego anche come fare con varie foto del processo

http://www.saviot.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=17:modifica-elettronica-brauduino&catid=8&Itemid=138

Alcuni laboratori realizzano PCB anche da files grafico .BMP

Ma si deve chiedere prima al laboratorio se accetta questo formato
e comunque non fanno foratura su PCB con files grafico.

Ma fare un PCB due faccie come da files di brauduino è difficile
molto difficile da fare in casa per questo il PCB di DanielXan
è utile per chi vuole risparmiare e sa farsi dasolo un PCB in Casa

Potete provare voi a realizzare PCB
Anche se mai fatto basta un ferro da stiro un foglio di carta PNP
una stamante Laser acido e si fa facile in casa il PCB di DanielXan

Io posso anche fare PCB per chi non sa farlo
ma dal Italia potrebbe costarvi troppo prendere un PCB da me
meglio vedere nella vostra zona o un vostro amico che sa farlo per voi

In alternativa potete usare il PCB Brauduino del quale esiste la il files
versione per laboratorio professionale
OpenArdBir al suo interno ha la configurazioni di PCB diversi
tra i Quali BrauDuino Originale
Quindi NO problema OpenArdBir Funziona su piu piattaforme di PCB 

In Inglese

The work that was done by my request under DanielXan
is to have a single-sided PCB copper easy to do at home
with all the traditional methods for much less cost

On my site I explain how to do it with various photos of the process

http://www.saviot.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=17:modifica-elettronica-brauduino&catid=8&Itemid=138

Some laboratories also carry PCBs from graphic files . BMP

But you have to ask first if the laboratory accepts this format
and in any case are not drilling on a PCB with graphic files .

But making a PCB from two sides as files brauduino is difficult
very difficult to do in this house for the PCB DanielXan
is useful for those who want to save money and knows how to make a PCB dasolo House

You can try to make PCB
Although never done just a flat iron a piece of paper PNP
a Laser stamante acid and makes easy homemade PCB DanielXan

I can also do PCB for those who do not know
but the Italian could cost you too take a PCB from me
better to see in your area or a friend who knows how to do it for you

Alternatively you can use the PCB Brauduino which there is the files
version for professional laboratory
OpenArdBir inside it has a different PCB configurations
What BrauDuino between the Original
So NO problem OpenArdBir Works on most platforms PCB : D


----------



## dca

Ciao, Davide -

I appreciate your efforts to provide a simple, low cost design - and support. 

A friendly request: Is it possible to ask Daniel Xan to provide Gerbers and Drill detail?

I have been a hardware engineer for many years now and never made my own PCB. It is much easier and more reliable to have a PCB house make basic PCBs these days for a low cost. I can provide the link for those who may be interested. 

Many Thanks,
Dave


----------



## saviothecnic

dca said:


> Ciao, Davide -
> 
> A friendly request: Is it possible to ask Daniel Xan to provide Gerbers and Drill detail?


In ENG

Hello I 've written some message behind
I apologize if the translation program did not translate well
and maybe you do not understand.

DanielXan achieved by drawing directly on the PCB copper side

For this reason, there is neither wiring diagrams
it files other format other than. bmp

I do not know how to draw PCB otherwise I would have done

I limit myself only to realize and prove to give you ideas about ideas

DanielXan and draws directly from the copper side

So at least someone who knows how to do redraws the entire
with a program that generates these files
by DenielXan you can not have these files
simply because the program that uses the method that uses not generate

I repeat for the PCB DanielXan is NOT possible to have other files

not because I did not want to give but please esitono

Since it was direttmanete disengato the PCB from the side graph of copper.

thanks

In Italiano

Ciao l' ho scritto qualche messaggio dietro
mi scuso se il programma di traduzione non ha tradotto bene
e forse non si è capito.

DanielXan ha realizzato il PCB disegnando direttamente il lato rame

Per questo motivo non esistono ne schemi elettrici
ne files di altra natura formato diverso dal .bmp

Io non so disegnare PCB altrimenti avrei fatto io

Mi limito solo a realizzarli provargli e dare idee spunti in merito

e DanielXan gli disegna direttamente dal lato rame

Quindi almeno che qualcuno che lo sa fare ridisegna il tutto
con un programma che genera questi file
da DenielXan non si possono avere questi files
perche semplicemente il programma che usa con il metodo che usa non gli genera

Ripeto per i PCB di DanielXan NON è possibile avere files di altro tipo

non perche non gli vuole dare ma perche non esitono

Dato che è stato direttmanete disengato il PCB dal lato grafico del rame.

Grazie


----------



## bonj

dca, matho's original PCB has all the gerbers etc available to send to a PCB fabricator. In our case because of the small batches, we used the seeedstudio's fusion PCB service. Matho's schematic works with the ardbir firmware. I don't know if this is the latest version, but here is a link to the eagle PCB files (including gerbers): http://www.mediafire.com/download/ji79nrtwvk3gga2/The+Brauduino.zip

I believe the latest version includes the mod to avoid the LCD scrambling problem when the heater/pump is activated. Someone else may be able to confirm whether this is the latest version or not.


----------



## booargy

Bonj said:


> dca, matho's original PCB has all the gerbers etc available to send to a PCB fabricator. In our case because of the small batches, we used the seeedstudio's fusion PCB service. Matho's schematic works with the ardbir firmware. I don't know if this is the latest version, but here is a link to the eagle PCB files (including gerbers): http://www.mediafire.com/download/ji79nrtwvk3gga2/The+Brauduino.zip
> 
> I believe the latest version includes the mod to avoid the LCD scrambling problem when the heater/pump is activated. Someone else may be able to confirm whether this is the latest version or not.


Yes the latest version has the snubber circuit to stop LCD scrambling from seed studio it is $34 for 10 boards.


----------



## MaxN68

I wanted to try to clarify a bit ' ideas on ArdBir .
ArdBir wants to be an upgrade of Brauduino and is therefore compatible with the electronics used with the Brauduino project.
Brauduino uses a double sided PCB that is difficult to reproduce at home, so here it has been develope a single-sided PCB for easy homemade.
The availability of material for this PCB is limited to the assembly drawings and print just because it was designed to be used for etching housewife.

Given the growing interest, however, we are working on a definitive and complete schematic as well as the complete PCB Gerber file so that everyone can play the entire project

What does ArdBir then again?
We focused on improving an existing project to give everyone the chance to have new functions and facilities of a 20x4 display .
The recommendation before using ArdBir is only one, and Brauduino ArdBir have a different EEPROM map and ArdBir makes use of many variables stored on EPPROM.
A misreading of the data compromises funzionità basic ArdBir, then, as indicated in the manual, should be done the configurations of the parameters of PID menu and UNIT menu *BEFORE* using ArdBir.


Below you will find all the changes made .


brauduino semi automated single vessel RIMS
created by s.mathison
Copyright (C) 2012 Stephen Mathison

Modified by Mike Wilson
- Added INPUT_PULLUP to button inputs
- swapped I/O ports for Buzz and Pump
- changed to faherenheit
- added heat and pump (H and P) indicators to the LCD
- turned off pump during boil stage
- added direct output% control and display during boil
- saved boil heat % in EEPROM
- 2v5 fixed hop addition when hoptime == boiltime
- changed boil stage temp to 201 deg F.

Modified by Massimo Nevi (2014)
- Added Buzzer Modulation (NumBeep, Period)
- Added Stage CountDown in Automatic Mode
- Added Stage Watch in Manual Mode
- Modified Max Number of Hops (10)
- Modified stage Wait in Active Pause (PID Controlo On)
- Modified H e P indicator for ON-OFF and Active-Disactive Modulation
- Added Some Control Parameter in Configuration Menu 
- Added Temp Pump Stop in Manual Mode
- Dual Scale Temp (°C-°F)
- Reorganized EEPROM
- Reorganized Configuration
- Added Delayed Start
- Added Alert before Mash In
- Jump Step whit Button Press in Automatic Mode

- Added Second Menu Configuration
- Set Scale Temp (°C-°F)
- Set Temp of Boil
- Set Set Time Pump Cycle and Time Rest
- Set Location of Temp Sensor
- Set Pump ON-OFF at Boil 
- Set Temp Pump Stop
- Set Calibration Temp

- Reorganized Automation
- Removed Number of Stages Setting
- Fixed Name of Stages (8)
- Dual A-Amylase Stage
- Correct Mash In Stage
- Auto Mash Design
- Correct Time Reset of Pump
- Added Iodine Test (Active Pause)

- Stage Managing
- Load Stage Set
- Save Stage Set
- Delete Stage Set
- Initialize EEPROM

- LCD 16x2 wiew
- LCD 20x4 wiew
- Italian Language
- English Language
- Spanish Language

compiled on Arduino V1.0.5


----------



## stevemc32

Did my first brew with the ArdBir software today using the 16x2 and brauduino hardware. Great work to all involved as it really is a nice upgrade.

I did notice a couple of issues through the day and wondered if others had similar experiences with the ArdBir software.

I had a display scramble during a pump rest that was easy to rectify with a quick power down and resume. For some reason the buzzer would sound every ten seconds or so whenever a pump rest was occurring. Is this supposed to happen? I had the pump rests set at 10 minute intervals for a rest time of 2 minutes.

Second issue was the pump did not run at all during the mash out rest. I had mash out set at 76 degrees for 20 minutes and had to stop the auto process to run the pump manually every few minutes to circulate the wort during this stage.

Interested to hear if anyone else had seen this or whether I need to start looking at my own equipment.


----------



## MaxN68

I was working on correcting some errors in the view, now I will check these things. 
The buzzer function is normal during the break pump, I'm setting every 30 seconds using a different algorithm. 
The failure of the pump during the Mash Out I'm rechecking doing simulations. 

Thanks anyway for any error message.


----------



## stevemc32

Cheers Max.

I'll do a shortened run tomorrow with just water to see if I can reproduce the mash out pump fail and let you know how it goes.


----------



## MaxN68

I simulate with the lighter, is much faster


----------



## real_beer

stevemc32 said:


> Did my first brew with the ArdBir software today using the 16x2 and brauduino hardware. Great work to all involved as it really is a nice upgrade.
> 
> I did notice a couple of issues through the day and wondered if others had similar experiences with the ArdBir software.
> 
> I had a display scramble during a pump rest that was easy to rectify with a quick power down and resume. For some reason the buzzer would sound every ten seconds or so whenever a pump rest was occurring. Is this supposed to happen? I had the pump rests set at 10 minute intervals for a rest time of 2 minutes.
> 
> Second issue was the pump did not run at all during the mash out rest. I had mash out set at 76 degrees for 20 minutes and had to stop the auto process to run the pump manually every few minutes to circulate the wort during this stage.
> 
> Interested to hear if anyone else had seen this or whether I need to start looking at my own equipment.


Yes I have the same problem with the pump not running in the mash out period. I can pause the process to turn the heat element off or go to the next step 'boil', but if I go to the manual process I can turn the element on & off but when I press the pump button it just clicks on for 1/4 of a second and goes straight off. I've configured & initialised all the settings before using to brew but always have the same problem. All the buttons seem to be mapped out okay so I think there be a small glitch in the code. I've had a lot less problem with the screen scrambling since I disabled the *pump_prime(); *in* VOID auto_mode*.


----------



## real_beer

stevemc32 said:


> Cheers Max.
> 
> I'll do a shortened run tomorrow with just water to see if I can reproduce the mash out pump fail and let you know how it goes.


Disconnect the pump & element from your controller before you turn it on, start auto mode and then to cycle through the brewing process just keep holding down the enter button during each step until it beeps and asks you if you want to go the next step.


----------



## stevemc32

real_beer said:


> Yes I have the same problem with the pump not running in the mash out period. I can pause the process to turn the heat element off or go to the next step 'boil', but if I go to the manual process I can turn the element on & off but when I press the pump button it just clicks on for 1/4 of a second and goes straight off. I've configured & initialised all the settings before using to brew but always have the same problem. All the buttons seem to be mapped out okay so I think there be a small glitch in the code. I've had a lot less problem with the screen scrambling since I disabled the *pump_prime(); *in* VOID auto_mode*.


Thinking back to it I did have the same problem with the pump in manual mode. I could switch it on but it would just turn off again straight away.

During the mash out rest stage what I was doing was cancelling auto mode and then resuming auto mode. This would restart me back at the Iodine Check which happened to have the pump running so I would leave it in this state for a couple of minutes before resuming the mash out rest.


----------



## MaxN68

I covered the reported errors and I fixed the MashOut. 
Regarding the pump ... 
In manual mode, the pump is controlled by the ON / OFF button, then a threshold temperature which is set in the EEPROM. 
If this value has not been set, the firmware reads a value not consistent and this can cause the release of the relays. 
Beyond this value there are others that come into direct correlation with the pump and the temperature reading and are all stored in eeprom. 
If you are not running the correct configuration, everything suffers a malfunction. 

I insist on this point because it is fundamental to perform this configuration BEFORE you start using ArdBir.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Max are you saying, the system should first be run in manual to set this threshold temp, or is the threshold temp set up prior to installing ArdBir


----------



## real_beer

Thanks Max the new update works great :beer:
I'm making Beef Jerky this weekend so I'll be brewing with the controller again next weekend.


----------



## real_beer

MastersBrewery said:


> Max are you saying, the system should first be run in manual to set this threshold temp, or is the threshold temp set up prior to installing ArdBir


When you power up the controller hold down the enter button & then go through all the menus to set the various options. Don't enter & save any recipe's yet because you'll just flush them out when you press ok in the 'Initialization Menu', this is the last option in the 'Manage Recipes' section. After that you can load recipes or just start using the controller and it should work fine.


----------



## MaxN68

Sorry for the English, it is Google's fault. : D 

This is the sequence of use 
1) Load ArdBir on the Arduino board 
2) Set the PID 
3) Set Units 

At this point in manual mode work without problems 

To operate in automatic mode you must set the automation

For manage recipe you must initialize EEPROM from Recipe section


----------



## MastersBrewery

Thanks guys


----------



## MaxN68

I'm running a race with only water to test the proper operation of the corrections made​​. 
As soon as I have finished, if not getting errors put online the updated version


----------



## JackOfShadows

Hi Max,

This is the promised translation of ArdBir Manual 2.6.62 to Russian - http://goo.gl/V8200l

All your changes of "Manage recipes" were added appropriately.


----------



## MaxN68

Thanks for the translation of the manual. 
As soon as you send me the translation for LCD include it in the ArdBir package


----------



## JackOfShadows

MaxN68 said:


> Thanks for the translation of the manual.
> As soon as you send me the translation for LCD include it in the ArdBir package


Max,

1. Most of cheap LCDs don't support Cyrillic symbols - and support of Russian in them is done through creating 8 custom symbols and taking rest from English alphabet. As you define those symbols in ArdBir - they can't be used for Cyrillic - and it can be supported only by special LCD, which is 2-3 times more expensive.

2. We've purchased Russian LCD and translated some strings. If we will translate the rest - surely I'll send it to you. But I guess Russian manual needs to be left with English screenshots.

3. Please feel free to add Russian manual to your Google Drive/your site/your signature. Hope this will increase number of users.

And please don't forget to give us version with pump fix for MashOut step.

Thank you for all you are doing.


----------



## MaxN68

I have already added the Russian textbook on the Facebook page. 
If for the specific use of the Russian language you need a particular LCD can always mentioned.


I have personally tested with a single test water and I have not found errors. 
I am waiting for confirmation from other tests to be sure you have everything working.


----------



## stevemc32

Sorry Max, I didn't re-do the test as I thought the issue had been confirmed. I will conduct the test tomorrow afternoon to see if I can repeat the mash out pump fail problem.


----------



## real_beer

MaxN68 said:


> I have personally tested with a single test water and I have not found errors.
> I am waiting for confirmation from other tests to be sure you have everything working.


Hi Max

In auto mode I've run through the menu selections a lot of times and everything is working fine. In Manual Mode the only small detail I notice is that the little H, heating icon is very faint and flickers very very fast, it doesn't do this when running in Auto Mode. If I press and hold the button to turn the heating off in Manual Mode the icon stops flickering and looks normal again. All the buttons in manual mode work fine switching things on and off.

Cheers


----------



## MaxN68

The flickering is only an error of some length written on the LCD to fix it I have to find the space that causes this error


----------



## real_beer

MaxN68 said:


> The flickering is only an error of some length written on the LCD to fix it I have to find the space that causes this error


I'm waiting :beerdrink:


----------



## lael

Has anyone tried a 20x4 lcd with English? I uploaded to a shield with one, but I think the button controls were on the second line as well as the other stuff on the line? The line is flickering as per the above comment as well.

Anyone created mash profiles they want to share? Be cool to pre-load ArdBir with some solid profiles... new thread for the discussion?


----------



## MaxN68

The setting of the display should be done on two specific rows one at the beginning of the sketch, and one toward the end. 

# include "LCD20x4_ ***. h" 
lcd.begin (20.4); 

For ease you can search using this text "LCD***"


----------



## real_beer

I've only got the 16x2 lcd so unfortunately that's the only version I can give feedback about. I know Max would like to get more input about the English version problems from others so he can work them out. He's doing a great job as I think he uses Google to translate to and fro from his native Italian.The mash profiles idea is a good one, especially for people struggling to input them themselves, I haven't got any yet as I'm still tweaking my BM copy build at the moment.


----------



## zwitter

I had this flickering when I first loaded ArdBir. I had not made the change as Max advises. Looked much better after made this little change.
James
Zwitter

PS all this is on the first page of the instruction book.....



MaxN68 said:


> The setting of the display should be done on two specific rows one at the beginning of the sketch, and one toward the end.
> 
> # include "LCD20x4_ ***. h"
> lcd.begin (20.4);
> 
> For ease you can search using this text "LCD***"


----------



## lael

If all else fails right?  I only just uploaded once and hadn't investigated any further. That was my next step  promise


----------



## MaxN68

Step 1: Read the manual (What I wrote to do?)
Setp 2: Configure your language and LCD view (look in the manual how to do)
Step 3: Configure PID (Please refer to Step 1)
Step 4: Configure Unit (You must always refer to the manual)

Only after you have done all this

if you want to run auto mode:
Step 5: Configure your brewing automation 

Start Manual Mode or Auto Mode

:super:


----------



## stevemc32

Here are the results of my testing tonight. I did four separate (shortened) water runs and during all four tests the pump failed at the mash out stage.

My system uses the original brauduino board with 16x2 display with a genuine arduino uno. The schedule for each test was as follows - mash in 58 degrees, aAmalayse2 63 degrees for 5 minutes, mash out 75 degrees for 5 minutes with boil and hop settings untouched from my first brew.

I checked your above post and had definitely followed all those steps when setting up the unit before it's first run last week so went straight into the testing tonight.

Run No. 1 - I recalled that I had experienced a screen scramble and system reset during the aAmalayse step during my original brewing session so I replicated that by disconnecting power during that step and resuming the operation. After reaching the mash out step and confirming that the Iodine test is OK the pump would stop and heating to mash out begins.

Run No. 2 - To test if it was the system reset and resume operation I repeated the run above without resetting power during the aAmalayse step. Again after confirming Iodine test OK the pump would stop.

Run No. 3 - I decided to re-upload the 2.6.62e sketch to the arduino and confirm I was following the setup steps correctly. I re-uploaded and then proceeded to first set all the PID parameters, then the Unit parameters, then initialised the eeprom via the Recipes menu. Again the test result was the same as the previous two runs however I had noticed that the parameters I had set earlier were still loaded to the arduino so decided to do a fourth test.

Run No. 4 - This time I ran a quick eeprom erase sketch to the arduino to get rid of any saved data then re-uploaded the ArdBir sketch. I immediately went to the PID parameters and confirmed that all values had been reset to zero. I set the PID and Unit parameters as they had previously been set and again initialised the eeprom via the Recipes menu. I then ran the same schedule as the tests above and confirmed that again the pump stopped after selecting OK to the Iodine test.

My settings are as follows

PID
P - 50
I - 1
D - 10
Window - 1000
Boil - 100%
Cal - 0.00

Unit
Degrees - C
Sensor - Inside
Set Boil - 100
Pump Cycle - 10
Pump Rest - 2
Pump Boil - OFF
Pump Stop - 95

I hope this information is helpful, I really wanted to find that it worked correctly on Run No. 4 to indicate that I had just missed something during the setup as I was hoping to brew again soon using this system.

Cheers,
Steve.


----------



## real_beer

I run the same hardware as you and Max's latest update fixes the problem. I think he's very close to posting it here.

I'd change the PID Setting "Use In Boil = 100%" to 0%

Cheers


----------



## stevemc32

That's what I was hoping to hear, good stuff. :beerbang:


----------



## MaxN68

I added on Dropbox , the latest release *2.2.63b2*:
- Correction of errors display
- Fix failure of the pump break during the mash out
- Change the value of the limit of Delta Temperature on the restoration of pump break
- fixed error on resume.

It took me a bit because I wanted to do the comprehensive simulations with only water to be sure not to find other obvious errors.



With the corrections made ​​in this version, I'm reorganizing two releases that I had in development :

Beta Version (2.6.63d):
- Changed parameter of intervention of the PID constant kI at +400 and -200 compared to 0.25 the previous value . It was served a big gap of performance of the PID to change even a single unit of this value , it should now be all the more manageable.
- Changed the parameter of minimum intervention of the output of the PID making it proportional to the temperature


Alpha Version (2.6.64):
- As the version 2.6.63d but added the use of the library DallasTemperature which allows a more accurate reading of the temperature at the expense of occupancy of space on the sketch significantly higher .


The version 2.2.63b is already present in the space Dropbox indicated in my signature.
The other versions I will add later.

Let me know if everything works fine .

thanks


----------



## MaxN68

I hope that the latest changes are decisive, implementations are many and sometimes just made ​​a mistake insignificant to trigger something wrong. 




stevemc32 said:


> ...
> My settings are as follows
> 
> PID
> P - 50
> I - 1
> D - 10
> *Window - 1000*
> Boil - 100%
> Cal - 0.00
> 
> Unit
> Degrees - C
> Sensor - Inside
> 
> *Set Boil - 100*
> Pump Cycle - 10
> Pump Rest - 2
> Pump Boil - OFF
> Pump Stop - 95
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> I'd change the PID Setting *"Use In Boil = 100%" to 0%*
Click to expand...

For the PID I would advise you to use a window of not less than 2500 and for use in the boil to start with a value of around 80% and then be more accurate with experience. 



Keep me informed about any errors that I will try to resolve them as quickly as possible. 


If anyone wants to try the Beta Version (2.6.63d) to give me feedback on the improvement of PID would be a very useful thing 

Thanks


----------



## stevemc32

real_beer said:


> I run the same hardware as you and Max's latest update fixes the problem. I think he's very close to posting it here.
> 
> *I'd change the PID Setting "Use In Boil = 100%" to 0%*
> 
> Cheers





MaxN68 said:


> I hope that the latest changes are decisive, implementations are many and sometimes just made ​​a mistake insignificant to trigger something wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> For the PID I would advise you to use a window of not less than 2500 and for *use in the boil to start with a value of around 80%* and then be more accurate with experience.
> 
> 
> 
> Keep me informed about any errors that I will try to resolve them as quickly as possible.
> 
> 
> If anyone wants to try the Beta Version (2.6.63d) to give me feedback on the improvement of PID would be a very useful thing
> 
> Thanks


Have I misunderstood this parameter in the instruction manual. The manual describes it as a pulse width modulation parameter so I assume anything less than 100% would limit the power available to the element during the boil phase, whether controlled by PID or just running at maximum power. My system does not boil that well so I figured just get the maximum amount of power available into the element and achieve the best boil off rate possible.

Is the PID control operational during the boil phase or does it switch to simple PWM with the above set duty cycle?

I do appreciate the advice on setting the parameters as I'll admit I don't have much knowledge on PID control. For this reason I'll refrain from using the Beta Version as I don't think I could give any useful feedback.

Thanks guys.


----------



## lael

Hi Max,

I just tried to compile the 20x4 Eng and got this error:

In file included from ArdBir_2_6_63b2.ino:112:
/LCD20x4_ENG.h: In function 'void PausaPompa(float, int)':
LCD20x4_ENG.h:670: error: 'Ciclo' was not declared in this scope

It looks like it was commented out where you declared it and in the PausaPompa method, so I've just commented it out.


----------



## MaxN68

The temperature control is managed by PID throughout the process until boiling. 
Arriving at the threshold of boiling control passes to the PWM, likewise if it drops below starts the PID. 
Why this? 
Because in boiling phase must be able to maintain the temperature and have a check sull'overboil and in this way is easier. 

Council initially put 80% because I do not know your pots and 80% may be a good place to start and then correct it. 
Found then the value suitable to your pot will be enough heat in the correct configuration.


----------



## MaxN68

lael said:


> Hi Max,
> 
> I just tried to compile the 20x4 Eng and got this error:
> 
> In file included from ArdBir_2_6_63b2.ino:112:
> /LCD20x4_ENG.h: In function 'void PausaPompa(float, int)':
> LCD20x4_ENG.h:670: error: 'Ciclo' was not declared in this scope
> 
> It looks like it was commented out where you declared it and in the PausaPompa method, so I've just commented it out.


yes, just comment out the line 670 in LCD20x4_ENG.h 


Code:


//Ciclo++


----------



## lael

Thanks Max.

I'm having the same trouble I did when I first tried the ArdBir - which is that my temp reads are all out. I've tried a couple of shields (an old v1 16x2 and a new v2 w 20x4LCD) and the temps are off with any of them. If I flash matho's code, it is fine again. It should be roughly 20C according to the thermometer I have. Is showing 20.5 on matho's code and 94.5F (which is 34C...) or on another arduino set to use Celsius (I guess the eeprom is set from when I was testing it in my completed controller a few weeks ago) is coming up as 46.5C. Problem is... I haven't finished building the controller for the 20x4 so I can't change it to C from F. Not very helpful, I know. Sorry!

Any ideas what the problem might be?


----------



## MaxN68

The problem of the temperature is related to a value that is added to the temperature read by the sensor. 
This value is the calibration. 
If you went from Brauduino to ArdBir you have this error because the EEPROM cell contains a value that is appropriate to what you expect. 

To solve this problem you have to proceed with the configuration. 
Unfortunately in order to optimize the code I had to remap the EEPROM memory in order to have the values ​​stored in contiguous blocks.

On Brauduino the cells where it is stored calibration value corresponding to the cells that contain the temperature of the second stage 

View attachment EEPROM ArdBir.pdf


----------



## real_beer

Hi Max,

So far I've been testing mine using:
PID
P - 50
I - 1
D - 10
Window - 2500
Use In Boil - 0% (I have a heavy 50lt Kettle and want the 2400watt element on full power all the time during the boil)
Cal - 0.00

Unit
Degrees - C
Sensor - Inside

Set Boil - 100
Pump Cycle - 10
Pump Rest - 2
Pump Boil - ON
Pump Stop - 95


----------



## MaxN68

I have a 56Lt Thermal Pot with 33Lt Pot Pipe and a 2500watt element with the sensor after the circulating pump.
My configuration is 
P = 93
I = 1 (6 whit the I = 1/4)
D = 0
Windows = 3750
Use in Boil = 86%
Calibration = 0.00

Degrees = °C
Sensor = Outside
Set Boil = 97
Pump Cycle = 5
Pump Rest = 2
Pump Boil ***
Pump Stop ***

***With External Sensor the pump on boil is ever ON


----------



## lael

MaxN68 said:


> The problem of the temperature is related to a value that is added to the temperature read by the sensor.
> This value is the calibration.
> If you went from Brauduino to ArdBir you have this error because the EEPROM cell contains a value that is appropriate to what you expect.
> 
> To solve this problem you have to proceed with the configuration.
> Unfortunately in order to optimize the code I had to remap the EEPROM memory in order to have the values ​​stored in contiguous blocks.
> 
> On Brauduino the cells where it is stored calibration value corresponding to the cells that contain the temperature of the second stage


Thankyou! That makes a lot more sense now! Is it possible to write a set of default values to EEPROM when the sketch is uploaded?


----------



## MaxN68

It's more faster directly configure than upload a sketch to set value which then will be modified however.


----------



## JackOfShadows

Hi Max,

Automatic Process - configuring Hop(x). On each next hop addition we can't increase time - only decrease is possible. So time of next hops can be only less or equal to previous. Is it a bug or a feature?

Thank you.


----------



## MaxN68

Time is relative to the permanence of hops in the boil, then assuming a boil for 90 minutes with immediate introduction of the first hop, all others will have a shorter duration.
You chose then to readjust the range of choice of time to avoid introducing a wrong time and cause an error in the operation of the warning function for the introduction of hops in the wort.
This type of approach was also chosen to design the mash and the jump of the steps with intervals of not matching the previous one.


----------



## JackOfShadows

Max, sorry, but I don't understand. If I want to make 4 hops of 10, 15, 20, 25 mins - it is impossible? Maybe you should check

total time of hops <= total time of boil

and not

hop1>=hop2>=hop3

?


----------



## saviothecnic

Eng

You have to hop from that time is the most up to what is less time
The program has assisted
prosismo hop and you've the time scale of the previous hop
Obviously, the sum of the times of hops must be equal to or greater
to that of boiling

Ita
Devi partire dal luppolo che sta piu tempo fino a quello che sta meno tempo
Il programma è assistito
e al prosismo luppolo ti scala gia il tempo del luppolo precedente
Ovviamente la somma dei tempi dei luppoli deve essere uguale o superiore
a quello di bollitura


----------



## MaxN68

if you do a full boil for 60 minutes, and you want to have the hops in boiling for 5, 10, 15, 50 minutes you have to set:
Boil time 60 
Hop 1 50 
Hop 2 15 
Hop 3 10 
Hop 4. 5. 
counting time is backward and time indicated for the hops to go insertion order and indicates how much remains in the pot


----------



## JackOfShadows

Oh, got it. Each hop is not time period since last hop adding, but is *exact time period till the end of boil*.

Maybe you should write about it a little bit more clear?


----------



## MastersBrewery

JackOfShadows said:


> Oh, got it. Each hop is not time period since last hop, but is exact time from the beginning.
> 
> Maybe you should write about it a little bit more clear?


you mean exact time from the end of the boil, so for instance above Hop 3 would go in at 10 minutes from finishing the boil( and perfect time to add whirfloc or brewbrite)


----------



## JackOfShadows

*exact time period till the end of boil*.
Thanks.


----------



## MaxN68

On the manual, page 7.

Hop(x) 0-180min This parameter sets the boil time of each hop addition and should be 
repeated for all the hop additions the user has configured above.


I might add at the end of the explanation of the setting parameters for automating this note (for better translation you help me)


Code:


Example for the management of hops:

If you do a boil for 60 minutes, and you want to have 4 hops in boiling for 5, 10, 15, 50 minutes you have to set:
Num of Hops: 4
Boil time:  60 
Hop 1:      50 
Hop 2:      15 
Hop 3:      10 
Hop 4:       5 


The counting time is a countdown and time indicated for the hops indicates exactly how much remains in boil


----------



## JackOfShadows

"boil time" confused me - as it is not clear enough, and seemed to mean time value when hop is added. But maybe only for me

I'd change to "time interval/length/period". And I'd add about validation and necessity to enter values in decreasing way.


----------



## MaxN68

The beauty of open source projects is just that: share and improve. 
So your help is appreciated in addition to being essential. 

Expect more opinions and / or corrections, and then I correct the manual


----------



## MaxN68

This correction is ok for the parameter description?

Hop (x) 0-180min This parameter set the time that the hops will remain on the boil.
The setting it must to be done from the first hops to the last entered.
This operation must be repeated for all hops expected

and this additional example


Code:


Example for the management of hops:

If you do a boil for 60 minutes, and you want to have 4 hops in boiling for 5, 10, 15, 50 minutes you have to set:
Num of Hops: 4
Boil time:  60 
Hop 1:      50 
Hop 2:      15 
Hop 3:      10 
Hop 4:       5 


The counting time is a countdown and time indicated for the hops indicates exactly how much remains in boil


----------



## JackOfShadows

Ok for me, thanks.


----------



## real_beer

Just think of it this way:

The Boil Input is just asking how long your recipe wants you to boil your wort? You can enter anything up to 180 minutes. 
The Hop Input is asking how long do you want each of the hops in your recipe to boil for? Say you choose a 60 minute boil and want your hops to boil for 50 - 15 - 10 - 5 respectively, just enter them that way at the prompt.

The controller is asking you exactly the same way as any brewing method adds hops to the brew kettle. If someone gave you a recipe and said add the hops at 50 - 15 - 10 - 5 minutes it means after your worts been boiling for 10 minutes add the 50 minute hops, after its been boiling for 45 minutes add the 15 minute hops, after its been boiling for 50 minutes add the 10 minute hops, and after its been boiling for 55 minutes add the 5 minute hops. Just because these systems have a controller you don't want to start changing this accepted mindset of how how hop schedules are timed as it will create confusion for yourself every time you try to brew someone else's recipe. Its much better just to spend time learning the universal method in the first place even though it might seem back to front.


----------



## xredwood

I just want to say this stuff is awesome! I decided a while back to give brewing a go, did one extract brew then decided it was time to go all grain, then decided I should do a Brau clone. I have never made or built anything in my life. Made a Brau clone that, to my amazement, worked!

Then I thought I better automate, but I've never soldered anything in my life. I figured it was worth a go. I bought a kit from Lael (thanks!) and ordered a 20x4 LCD and put the whole thing together today. First time soldering anything and it all worked! Fired it up and then thought I'd see what all this ArdBir stuff is about so I uploaded that and that worked too! I'm sitting here staring at the screen that actually says stuff from what earlier today was a bag full of unknown parts.

Anyway I just wanted to thank everyone for the considerable amount of work that would have gone into all this, all the support you give the noobs like me, and all the inspiration to make me think I could actually do it. It wasn't even that hard!

Still have to finish off the control box (made a hash of it today and have to start over tomorrow) and I am waiting on my temp probe to arrive, but it is definitely getting there! Soldering is fun.


----------



## lael

real_beer said:


> Just think of it this way:
> 
> The Boil Input is just asking how long your recipe wants you to boil your wort? You can enter anything up to 180 minutes.
> The Hop Input is asking how long do you want each of the hops in your recipe to boil for? Say you choose a 60 minute boil and want your hops to boil for 50 - 15 - 10 - 5 respectively, just enter them that way at the prompt.
> 
> The controller is asking you exactly the same way as any brewing method adds hops to the brew kettle. If someone gave you a recipe and said add the hops at 50 - 15 - 10 - 5 minutes it means after your worts been boiling for 10 minutes add the 50 minute hops, after its been boiling for 45 minutes add the 15 minute hops, after its been boiling for 50 minutes add the 10 minute hops, and after its been boiling for 55 minutes add the 5 minute hops. Just because these systems have a controller you don't want to start changing this accepted mindset of how how hop schedules are timed as it will create confusion for yourself every time you try to brew someone else's recipe. Its much better just to spend time learning the universal method in the first place even though it might seem back to front.


The first time I brewed with my controller I did the same thing and learned the same lesson as you JackofShadows... you rave that it is all crazy, and then later on you realise that boil times can differ and what is important is the time from the end because that makes all the difference to aroma, flavour and bitterness (function of amount of time in wort, not how long the wort is boiled. So with the way it is, a 5 min addition is a 5 min addition no matter if I am boiling for 20 mins (don't do this - just an example), 60 mins or 90 mins.


----------



## PeteQ

Max the additions to Mathos code that you have done are awesome! After close to 2 years brewing with Mathos code I can't wait to brew with ardbir!

I uploaded the ardbir code last night and had the same issues with temp and couldn't save any mash schedules, easy fix is to erase all eeprom entries from your arduino board. Upload the code in the arduino software, File - examples - eeprom - eeprom_clear

I'll be doing some tests tonight so I'll let you know if I find any issues. Thanks again for all your hard work Max

Cheers


----------



## dca

Hi guys -

This is a great, informative thread for the ArdBir software. I only have done extract so far and just have a boil kettle. I want to upgrade, so I would like to know if a similar thread exists for the hardware. 

I realize there is the single, double, and three tier vessel approaches. I understand there are tradeoffs on efficiency, space, and complexity. I get the impression many here are using a single pot approach (like Braumeister). So far I am partial to the 2 pot compromise (like BrewEasy). 

Do you have links or threads where I can see what you built and how it was built? 

Thanks


----------



## PeteQ

Hey dca, there is a fun 82 pages worth of ideas and builds here -

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/57924-braumeister-nextgen-build/

Cheers


----------



## MaxN68

PeteQ said:


> Max the additions to Mathos code that you have done are awesome! After close to 2 years brewing with Mathos code I can't wait to brew with ardbir!
> 
> I uploaded the ardbir code last night and had the same issues with temp and couldn't save any mash schedules, easy fix is to erase all eeprom entries from your arduino board. Upload the code in the arduino software, File - examples - eeprom - eeprom_clear
> 
> I'll be doing some tests tonight so I'll let you know if I find any issues. Thanks again for all your hard work Max
> 
> Cheers


As repeated many times you do not need to cancel eeprom, you just configure the entire system. 
In order to store configurations mash (recipes) should be done in the initialization process eeprom contained in the menu. 
And it's all explained in the manual.


----------



## neo__04

dropbox down for the latest version?


----------



## PeteQ

MaxN68 said:


> As repeated many times you do not need to cancel eeprom, you just configure the entire system.
> In order to store configurations mash (recipes) should be done in the initialization process eeprom contained in the menu.
> And it's all explained in the manual.


Sorry Max, definitely getting carried away without reading the manual first... reading the manual all the way through is definitely required before first use.

Just playing around with the controller now and it is bloody awesome! I would love to give it a run this weekend but it will most likely be next weekend. I will check in to let you all know how it goes.

Thanks again Max


----------



## MaxN68

I just checked the space Dropbox and it works. 
In this space you will find 3 folders: 


MANUALS 
PCB 
FIRMWARE:

The latest Version: (Released) 
The Beta Version: (Beta) 
The Alpha Version: (Alpha)


----------



## neo__04

Thanks max, seems to be working now, was getting a 404 error earlier on


----------



## claudiobr74

Hi everyone! I have finished my system using the ardbir project and I'm very satisfied with the results. I have made a little change in the firmware, translating it to portuguese. Anyone interested I can send the archive. Thank you for everybody envolved in this project. Regards,
Claudio


----------



## MaxN68

Claudio I wrote you a PM with my email address to get the language files


----------



## JackOfShadows

Hi Max,

Updated Russian manual is available at the same place - http://goo.gl/V8200l . Changes: 

1. Programming hops boiling times updated according to your examples.
2. Necessity to reset EEPROM was outlined with red.
3. Explanation of missing Cyrillic symbols in most LCDs, 8 customizable symbols in them for getting Russian and their usage in ArdBir was added.
4. "Arduino cookbook 2nd edition" by Michael Margolis was recommended - as people ask too simple questions.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Spent all afternoon ordering everything, and by that I mean I still have some bits to chase down over the next week. Need less to say I can now recite my credit card details by heart. I'll start putting it together once all the bits are here, and the stand has been made at the fab shop.

ohh yeah controller is ready to go into it's little case


----------



## MaxN68

JackOfShadows said:


> Hi Max,
> 
> Updated Russian manual is available at the same place - http://goo.gl/V8200l . Changes:
> 
> 1. Programming hops boiling times updated according to your examples.
> 2. Necessity to reset EEPROM was outlined with red.
> 3. Explanation of missing Cyrillic symbols in most LCDs, 8 customizable symbols in them for getting Russian and their usage in ArdBir was added.
> 4. "Arduino cookbook 2nd edition" by Michael Margolis was recommended - as people ask too simple questions.


I have shared your link in dropbox folder.

Thanks


----------



## MaxN68

Updated Files:
- Manual Russian Rev2
- ArdBir (Release) 2.6.63b4 (with 20x4 PORTUGUESE)
- ArdBir (Beta) 2.6.63d1 (with 20x4 PORTUGUESE)

Thanks to:
- A. Moiseyev for Russian Manual
- A. Mondejar for Spanish Translation
- C. M. Macedo for Portuguese Translation


----------



## neo__04

Hey guys,

A quick questions on the controller build.

I have Lael's kit, with the power sockets being the computer power supply type (IEC)
I have 1 x iec inlet rated at 15A, and 2 x outlets rated at 10amp.

I will be running a 3k element. So pushing more like 15amp.

Will the plugs be ok running these amperages? should i replace out of the outlet plugs for the heater to a 15amp?

I would assume someone has run more than a 2200w element through one of the kits.

Any thoughts?


----------



## dca

A 3000W load on a nominal 240V outlet would be 12.5A current draw. You can do this with a 15A breaker, BUT it must be a 'dedicated' circuit, at least while you are brewing. This means there can't be other significant loads on that circuit, since you do not have much margin left. There is enough for the pump and electronics, since the pump adds only ~30W, and the control is comparatively negligible. 

The breakers will trip when about +20% rated current. I was using this same scenario with my electric car, which was how the EVSE interface was designed for trickle charge. I have since upgraded to a 40A circuit so I could take advantage of the full 6.6kW std charger capability. 

Dave


----------



## neo__04

The house/shed wiring side of things is fine. I have that covered.

My question was more related to the actual plugs used in the mathos controller build.

As you state, 3000w is around 12.5amps... How does that work going through a 10 amp IEC outlet?


----------



## dca

Always best to stay within rating, and I am not real familiar with the IEC 10A sockets, but looking at them, I am thinking it would be OK with 16awg wire and std PVC insulation, or 18awg with high temp insulation. It comes down to allowable temp rise on the wire/conductor/terminal. They are normally rated for a high ambient temp with some margin included.


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Help please


below is the sketch off the Arudiono program and it is asking (ONEWIRE DOES NOT NAME A TYPE)


// sensor and lcd
#define ONE_WIRE_BUS 8
OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); THIS PART IS ASKING (ONEWIRE DOES NOT NAME A TYPE)
DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire);

//OneWire ds(8);

LiquidCrystal lcd(A4, A5, 2, 3, 4, 5);

// push buttons
const char Button_up = A2;
const char Button_dn = A3;
const char Button_start = A0;
const char Button_enter = A1;

// outputs
const byte Heat = 6;
const byte Pump = 9;
const byte Buzz = 7;


----------



## zwitter

Hi Neo_04

You should use 15A sockets. Limited range at Jaycar or more from RS etc
10A ones can melt.
Would depend on the wire in the cable and attached inside your control box. Safer to use correct fittings for the job.

James
zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## dca

Neo - Yeah on second thought everything on the power output side of the circuit really would need to be reviewed to make sure of correct sizing for your application. IEC sockets seem unnecessary anyway, less cost to wire directly or use terminal blocks. --Dave


----------



## MaxN68

Cavemanbrew said:


> Help please
> 
> 
> below is the sketch off the Arudiono program and it is asking (ONEWIRE DOES NOT NAME A TYPE)
> 
> 
> // sensor and lcd
> #define ONE_WIRE_BUS 8
> OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); THIS PART IS ASKING (ONEWIRE DOES NOT NAME A TYPE)
> DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire);
> 
> //OneWire ds(8);
> 
> LiquidCrystal lcd(A4, A5, 2, 3, 4, 5);
> 
> // push buttons
> const char Button_up = A2;
> const char Button_dn = A3;
> const char Button_start = A0;
> const char Button_enter = A1;
> 
> // outputs
> const byte Heat = 6;
> const byte Pump = 9;
> const byte Buzz = 7;


This ALPHA Version use the DallasTemperature library, you need to download it.


----------



## MaxN68

I have updated the file with the correction for use the DallasTemperature library with all PCB, Portuguese language 20x4 and I have added the DallasTemperature library file.


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Thanks you.

New to all this technology,

sorry just checked its a rar file i can not use


----------



## MaxN68

To clarify, there are 3 versions of firmware: 
*Release*: current and stable version of the firmware 
*Beta: *Version with modifications and / or proposals for improvements to the firmware 
*Alpha*: Experimental version


The current differences between the versions are these: 
*Beta*: 

How the released version but with a change affecting the setting of the PID parameter kI rescaled to 1/4 of the value of the released version and change the range setting of this parameter 
Modification of the operation of the output during the duty cycle from 0-100 to a minimum value proportional to the current temperature. 
 
*Alpha*: 

How the Beta version with the use of the library Dallas. This library allows a more accurate temperature reading at the expense of increased occupancy of space for code


----------



## Cavemanbrew

hands in the air

I can not even get the Arduino conected to the laptop


----------



## djar007

where you at Caveman? Be good to get some help to get you started , and then you will be off and running.


----------



## Cavemanbrew

East Maitland NSW

What's giving me to poo's more is I can program cnc, lasers, mills, routers and draw in most CAD program's but I can't get a small circuit board to work.


----------



## neo__04

Cavemanbrew, is it detecting the uno in devide manager? Can you hear the usb connect sound when you plug it in? I assume the board is powering up when plugged in?

In the arduino software, you have the right com port selected? Also the right board selected.. Uno, mega.. etc.


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Neo__04 said:


> Cavemanbrew, is it detecting the uno in devide manager? Can you hear the usb connect sound when you plug it in? I assume the board is powering up when plugged in?
> 
> In the arduino software, you have the right com port selected? Also the right board selected.. Uno, mega.. etc.


Thanks for replying 

No there is no new device sound, or any sound when plugged in. No lights come on when plugged in, I checked the lead back on my printer and ok.

In the arduino software, you have the right com port selected? Also the right board selected.. Uno, mega.. etc, not sure and yes the ion is selected.

May be my uno board is foo bared ?


----------



## neo__04

Oh well that sounds pretty drastic. If theres no power to the board when its plugged in.
I'd be thinking the worst.

https://core-electronics.com.au/store/index.php/development-tools/arduino-derivatives/boards/uno-r3-arduino-compatible.html

get a couple. They are cheap


----------



## djar007

Have you gone into device manager? Is there a conflict sign against the device or anywhere? What software are you using on the pc side to detect the arduino? Have you tried an enhanced version?http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,118440.0.html


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Cheers, will do 

He is just around the corner. 

Thx again.


----------



## neo__04

Even if the drivers were stuffed, it should still get power from the usb port i would think


----------



## Cavemanbrew

No got nothing at all, Ordered a couple, will advise if successful.


----------



## neo__04

Done a bit of research tonight for anyone building mathos kit. Im going to be running a 3600w element and want to make sure everything is safe.
I'll be using IEC (pc power supply) connections. The ones in the kit are rated at 10a. I found some 16amp & 20amp connectors at RS components for only a few dollars.

Might be helpful for someone.

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7769129/
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7769135/

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7769144/
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7769125/


----------



## xredwood

I've got my controller all together and the heater works fine but when I try to turn the pump on in manual mode it turns on for a split second then off. The arduino displays the P icon but no power is being sent to the socket. If I apply 12v directly to the plug it works. 

The pump works in auto mode. Any thoughts?


----------



## MaxN68

Have you configured the system?


----------



## PeteQ

redwood turn pump during boil ON

I'm not sure if this is a bug or not, hopefully the pump will stop at the pump stop temperature in auto mode?


----------



## xredwood

Hi Max, yes I have configured the system and set the pump stop temp to 105 and it's cutting out right away even with the temp at 27 degrees


----------



## MaxN68

please write here your configuration I do the tests


----------



## djar007

PeteQ's suggestion to turn pump on during the boil fixes the pump on in manual mode. Good work mate.


----------



## MaxN68

In the afternoon (here is 8:40 AM) I reach to the code and settle this thing tied to Manual Mode and Pump on Boil


----------



## djar007

Nice one Max. I just tested it and when you turn it to on during boil to overcome the problem in manual mode the pump does switch off at the set temp (80c for me) while ramping up to boil.


----------



## MaxN68

Error found, it is change a number in a point of the sketch. 
If anyone can prove, please contact me in PM I tell him where to be changed so that it can be tested immediately


----------



## MaxN68

I've changed my mind... If you want to try

You have to change a number at the end of void MANUAL_MODE:
...
if (mheat)PID_HEAT(true); //set heat in auto mode

*if(mpump)pump_rest(8); //Forced Boil Stage for Pump Control*

}CntDwn(TimeSpent);
}lcd.clear();
}

void WaitStart(){
...

The number 8 should be changed to 7


----------



## lael

MaxN68 said:


> I've changed my mind... If you want to try
> 
> You have to change a number at the end of void MANUAL_MODE:
> ...
> if (mheat)PID_HEAT(true); //set heat in auto mode
> 
> *if(mpump)pump_rest(8); //Forced Boil Stage for Pump Control*
> 
> }CntDwn(TimeSpent);
> }lcd.clear();
> }
> 
> void WaitStart(){
> ...
> 
> The number 8 should be changed to 7


What is the significance of the 8 and the 7?


----------



## MastersBrewery

I have a question!

I'm going to be separating High voltage into it's own little box, with the 12v supply, then pass everything over cat5 to the controller Box, now I know cat5 can run 12v, but not how many amps or how much the controller needs. So in essence the controller will recieve power and temp signals, and power 3 SSR's over one Cat 5.

Will it work?


----------



## MaxN68

In automatic mode, the procedure is called with the parameter of the number of stages, in manual mode do not have the stage, I must then pass though a dummy parameter. 
Since I have to be able to manage the pump block during the boil, I have to pass the number of stage of the boil (8); for all other temperatures okay a parameter from 1 to 7


----------



## mojonojo

MastersBrewery said:


> I have a question!
> 
> I'm going to be separating High voltage into it's own little box, with the 12v supply, then pass everything over cat5 to the controller Box, now I know cat5 can run 12v, but not how many amps or how much the controller needs. So in essence the controller will recieve power and temp signals, and power 3 SSR's over one Cat 5.
> 
> Will it work?


you might be able to get 2amps out of cat5 however the insulation is next to nothing one scrape and its a count down to a short. use bell wire or something solid core with decent insulation


----------



## MaxN68

Please tell me if the fix is ​​so effective.
I wait a confirm for make the update


----------



## MastersBrewery

mojonojo said:


> you might be able to get 2amps out of cat5 however the insulation is next to nothing one scrape and its a count down to a short. use bell wire or something solid core with decent insulation


the cat5 is only to go from one box to the other, going to use panel mount sockets and heavier wire inside each.

Ed: I'll run a test set up before I start cutting holes


----------



## MaxN68

Bug Fixed
I have update the Repository


----------



## xredwood

Max, that worked and it is now all up and running, thanks very much. Now to find some grain.... Wish the LHBS stocked anything other than kits!


----------



## MaxN68

if anyone has tried the beta version (2.6.63d2) let me know what you think of the changes made


----------



## stevemc32

Just loaded 2.6.63b6 and was making sure the configuration was ok but found the minimum pump rest setting available is 10 minutes. I haven't operated it to see if it does actually rest for 10 minutes but it cannot be set lower than that.

Cheers,
Steve.


----------



## MaxN68

The Pump Cycle is from 5 to 15 minutes, the Pump Rest is from 0 to 5 minutes.
I just uploaded the same version and the setting is operating normally.


----------



## stevemc32

Gave it another go. Thought it might have been an eeprom error in the settings so I ran the eeprom clear sketch before re-uploading 2.6.63b6 and got the same result.





TimePumpRest can only be set between 10 and 15 minutes.


----------



## neo__04

just doing my controller build and run it for the first time with the buttons, leds, buzzer etc, plugged in.

A couple of things, in the setup menu, the first option is "P.I.D. Parameters" when i hit down it leaves some characters on the line... eg. "PUnit Parameterss", "P Manage Recipies s" Any idea what its doing that for? Using a 20x4 lcd.

Also the buzzer is constantly running as soon as the arduino starts.

Using the latest B6 revision.

Edit: Pump rest on latest revision with a 20x4 lcd can be set between 0-5

Any thoughts?


----------



## MaxN68

I double checked again by loading the specific version you're using (16x2 ENG) thinking about a display problem. 

On my system works properly from 0 to 5. 

I try to reload the file. 

For the next time please tell me when you report a bug version of the language, we now have 7 languages ​​and it is impossible to debug checking everything: D


----------



## MaxN68

Neo__04 said:


> just doing my controller build and run it for the first time with the buttons, leds, buzzer etc, plugged in.
> 
> A couple of things, in the setup menu, the first option is "P.I.D. Parameters" when i hit down it leaves some characters on the line... eg. "PUnit Parameterss", "P Manage Recipies s" Any idea what its doing that for? Using a 20x4 lcd.
> 
> Also the buzzer is constantly running as soon as the arduino starts.
> 
> Using the latest B6 revision.
> 
> Also can confirm the above about the timepumprest 10-15 min issue
> 
> Any thoughts?


Have you select the correct PCB in sketch before load the firmware in the Arduino?

To display errors check later. 

I confirm that instead of setting the pause pump works


----------



## neo__04

yes the display seems fine except for that issue in the setup menu


----------



## MaxN68

I have corrected the error display. 
Firmware Revision updated (2.6.63b7)


----------



## MaxN68

Time Pump Rest Setting


----------



## stevemc32

I'm using the 16,2 ENG display, just loaded 2.6.63b7 and still see the pump rest setting display error, ie setting time available is 10 minutes to 15 minutes.


----------



## MaxN68

In the video I use the version 2.6.63b7 and I don't have errors


----------



## neo__04

Just loaded B7, running a 20x4 lcd. Selected the correct board and correct lcd and it displays like a 16x2..

Tried to flash the Italian 20x4.

I get the same result, looks like end 16x2 and rolling text for the menu options


----------



## MaxN68

From page 1 of manual



From a HW perspective the code should be adapted in order to support the correct LCD display 16x2 or 20x4. This option is configurable inside the sketch. In order to enable one or the other display the user should modify the sketch through the Arduino IDE searching for (Ctrl+f) LCD* as the search string and then apply the modifications below in both sections:
// SETTING LCD*****
// Select your LCD
// LANGUAGE ITA
#include "LCD16x2_ITA.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ITA.h"
// LANGUAGE ENG
//#include "LCD16x2_ENG.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ENG.h"
…...
// SETTING LCD*****
lcd.begin(16,2);
// lcd.begin(20,4);

User should remove // before the #include and lcd.begin statement for the correct size LCD and add // before the incorrect size LCD.
Moreover it’s possible to select Italian or English language in the same way modifying the first LCD section

_..._


----------



## neo__04

My apologies. Thanks very much.

The speed at which you keep on top of the code is amazing.


----------



## claudiobr74

Did you change this line?


----------



## MaxN68

In a few days I will start to be increasingly absent because of my job. 
In a month I'll be a ghost. 
Then come back in September. 
We try to make everything work for good in the short time in which I can still dedicate myself to the code


----------



## MaxN68

How many people do not work the setting of the pump rest?


----------



## beel

Hi,

I'm running 2_6_63b6 and can reproduce the pump rest glitch/error, it seems like it has to do with a pumpe cylce beeing longer than 10 min.

Example: if I set pumpe cycle to 12 min, I can't set pump rest to less than 10 min. If I set pump cycle to 9 min, pump rest can be set from 1 - 5 min.

I havn't tried 2_6_63b7 yet, so I can't test it there.


Thanks for your work on developing ArdBir!


----------



## MaxN68

OK!!!
It's only a display error


----------



## MaxN68

Version 2.6.63b8 updated


----------



## beel

That's fast, I'll have a look at it tomrrow.


----------



## stevemc32

Thanks Max, pump rest time is now showing correct 0 to 5 minute scale. Cheers.


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Is there some one willing to load the new codes to my two Arduino's? 

I will send with pre paid post pack to return. 

I have come to the end of trying to get the circuit to connect to my bloody laptop. (Dell) 

I plugged it into the computer and the green light lights up and a yellow light flashes randomly.

The part about the ports will read Arduino file thing is a no go. 

I DO NOT KNOW


----------



## mxd

got mine today now need try someone to solder it up for me, my last attempt at soldering was a little atrocious


----------



## lael

Cavemanbrew said:


> Is there some one willing to load the new codes to my two Arduino's?
> 
> I will send with pre paid post pack to return.
> 
> I have come to the end of trying to get the circuit to connect to my bloody laptop. (Dell)
> 
> I plugged it into the computer and the green light lights up and a yellow light flashes randomly.
> 
> The part about the ports will read Arduino file thing is a no go.
> 
> I DO NOT KNOW


What OS are you using? Pretty easy to load. (Not helpful I know, but true) plug in USB, open up arduino and then select port, might need to select the arduino veraion you need as well. hit upload.


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Windows 7, (work laptop)
The Arduino sight, program 
Plugged in the new Arduino this avo waited and waited ....................

Nothing, checked the port and ?


----------



## djar007

i can swap you a made tested and working one for your kit mxd.But I swapped the screen out for the 20x4. Teaching my daughter to solder. She is awesome at it btw. Got the knack for it. Also caveman if you are really stuck you are welcome to send it my way and I will load it for you. I know what is like when you get to a point and just want it to be done. Regards dave.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Cavemanbrew, djar007 may also be able to sort the screen scramble you were having, he has done a few now, and may be able to pick out the fault.

djar007, sorry to throw more work your way just thought if he's sending one thing to be fixed he may as well get it all done and dusted. I'm still to run mine under load so as yet to be tested so to say.

MB


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Will do,

I looked like the mad scientist off honey I shrunk the kids on the weekend trying to find the issue.


----------



## MaxN68

Someone has got to try the 2.6.65a1?


----------



## claudiobr74

Hi Max, not yet. What did you change?


----------



## claudiobr74

I have tested the previous one and it worked really fine.


----------



## MaxN68

claudiobr74 said:


> Hi Max, not yet. What did you change?


*Release*: 

Fixed Error Display in Iodine Test (20x4) and Pause Stage (20x4)
 
*Release Candidate*: 

Improves the PID. The value of KI was rescaled to 1/4 of the previous value and the interval setting was adjusted to -200 +400. 
Removed Pause Pump on Mash Out
Recalculating Delta Temperature for abort Pause Pump
Fixed Error Display in Iodine Test (20x4) and Pause Stage (20x4)


----------



## lael

Nice work! Does the program Maintain mash out temp if the malt pipe is not quickly removed?


----------



## MaxN68

It can be done and is already prepared to modify it but I chose not to keep the temperature as there is the possibility of having the double mash for high OG beers and in that case you prefer a lowering of the temperature.


----------



## lael

Ah. That makes sense. Is there enough space left to make it a setting you can turn on or off?

Also, what happens if you don't hear the alarm for the iodine test or the machine is running unattended? Does it keep running the program in the background? I was running the program the other day and I came back to the screen and the test was on, but then I think it jumped to the end of the program after I ok'd it. Which I think is where it was up to.


----------



## MaxN68

The iodine test is an active pause: PID is ON, Pump is ON.
We can go to next step only with the button pushed.
If you want I can force to go at next step after x minutes in iodine test pause.

For change an passive pause in active pause is very simple.
For manage this choice I don't know if the space for code is enough


----------



## lael

I would appreciate a forced progression if that fits on the board. Generally you'll have full conversion if your mash program is long enough. And for me... I built the braumiser so I could leave mashing unattended. Brewed yesterday and went out for 1.5hrs.... such a joy to brew on. If there is no space to manage the option (menus etc) then maybe just make it a configuration in code like the LCD?


----------



## lael

MaxN68 said:


> It can be done and is already prepared to modify it but I chose not to keep the temperature as there is the possibility of having the double mash for high OG beers and in that case you prefer a lowering of the temperature.


Can you tell me how to modify it?

You know... I wonder if it is worth finalising the code the uno version and moving onto using a larger board? like MEGA 

I just received some boxes that are a good size and fit a mega (just) in the box. Very happy with that. The box is 140mm wide.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Have some uses for extra code space and pins, I'd explain but the fabricator isn't starting till monday on my system, it's like pulling teeth I tell ya!


----------



## MaxN68

You can use the ArdBir PCB for the Mega, and the only thing obligation to insert spacers

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/4IQU-wo_okp1-q-WVs1Uo2nDQlAtR4N7S_7NTxP7ugsG=w996-h747-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hKpM8beiiIc/UuWIRyWTTuI/AAAAAAAAT8Y/eltNO_7qNC0/w996-h747-no/IMG_20140126_220019.jpg


----------



## djar007

Well that's really cool. I will try out a mega when I get home. Thanks max.


----------



## Pirate323i

Well, I can say with certainty, my eyes aren't what they used to be... 
It appears there was a little stray solder across the voltage input to the LCD when I assembled my Brauduino... Seems I fried my ATMega chip on my arduino and consequently the transistors on the board... 
Having replaced the transistors and the arduino, I uploaded Mathos code, but got nothing from the screen... So, I replaced the LCD with a 20x4 I had for another project... (I definitely killed the original LCD) 
Therefore I have changed to ArdBir code (the latest in the Dropbox, I couldn't get the GitHub version to compile!?!)
However I still have a problem I don't get any temp reading just "0.0*C"
I have read that this could be a problem with the connections. But I don't know how to test the sensor... I also get zero when sensor is not connected... 
Help please!!!!!


----------



## neo__04

I bought a mega for experimenting. $22 from core electronics. Cheap as.

Of all the awesome functions and features being build into the controller, theres one thing id love to see.
Adding to lael's love of unattended brewing

I've been playing with a 1/2" bsp flowmeter and 12v solenoid.

There is some code out that can show flowrate in L/m and total water displaced.

I'd love to see some version of this added to the "Water added?" section where you can actaully say, 35l strike water, then it will open the solenoid,
fill till 35l then turn it off. That would be VERY cool.

Especially if we could get that set for the recipe, so you could delay it to start at 7am, automatically fill 35l, run the rest of the program and be waiting to be chilled at the end!

I don't have the coding knowledge to implement anything. But i think myself and others would see it as a great feature and an awesome addition to an already awesome controller!

Max??


----------



## Edak

Out of curiosity, why not just fill up the vessel manually and then use the timer to start it? Does it matter that your pot has water in it overnight?


----------



## lael

Edak said:


> Out of curiosity, why not just fill up the vessel manually and then use the timer to start it? Does it matter that your pot has water in it overnight?


I was thinking this... unless you are concerned about a prolonged mash - in I guess.

Seems to me a more productive use of that code would be to go hard core and develop a 2 vessel automatic system. 2nd vessel with sparge water. Removal system for malt pipe (hydraulic to hold it in place during mashing and then remove it? but would stuff fall into the pot? I guess if you used food grade lube... ) and then sparge from 2nd vessel and start the boil. Heck automatic hopping whilst you are there...  In fact - that is the one thing that I really wish I still had - auto hopping - an unattended boil would be nice.

Mash in, sparge, chill, transfer. Good brew day.


----------



## Pirate323i

Pirate323i said:


> Well, I can say with certainty, my eyes aren't what they used to be...
> It appears there was a little stray solder across the voltage input to the LCD when I assembled my Brauduino... Seems I fried my ATMega chip on my arduino and consequently the transistors on the board...
> Having replaced the transistors and the arduino, I uploaded Mathos code, but got nothing from the screen... So, I replaced the LCD with a 20x4 I had for another project... (I definitely killed the original LCD)
> Therefore I have changed to ArdBir code (the latest in the Dropbox, I couldn't get the GitHub version to compile!?!)
> However I still have a problem I don't get any temp reading just "0.0*C"
> I have read that this could be a problem with the connections. But I don't know how to test the sensor... I also get zero when sensor is not connected...
> Help please!!!!!


Some further testing has shown that my buttons dont work with the code (both versions a and b on the dropbox) either. (The buttons do work, I tried a basic code which proved the button on pin A0 works, and all work when tested with a multimeter) 

With regard to the 0.0*C reading, I set up a little circuit to figure out the sensor wiring. (which is nothing like the ad on Ebay stated - My sensor is red=positive, yellow=negative and green=data) so I then uploaded an *example sketch from the OneWire library and with the sensor connected to/through my Brauduino shield on the Arduino the temperature read fine *- this was SOOOO exciting..., so it definitely isnt an issue with my wiring/soldering...

I have gone over the shield and all connections check out with continuity, component values and voltages... 

I am at a complete loss... Unfortunately I dont have a great understanding of the code.

one question relating to the code/operation, does running the setup (which I cant do because my buttons dont seem to work) populate the EEPROM?
because if I run a script to read the EEPROM it comes back with '0' for all values!?!
I seem to be in over my head and would appreciate any help! :blink:
thanks in advance!
:unsure:


----------



## zwitter

Hi Pirate323i
What PCB have you selected in the sketch?
There are several choices and some have different uses for the pins. So if it is not for the correct one the temp probe may not be connected to the temp pins the program is expecting?

The instructions for ArdBir do explain this setup on first page. But it does require some level of understanding to load libraries and make changes.

Maybe i can talk you through it one evening. Does the original code compile? Load? and work?

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## lael

Yes, the eeprom is not changed at all until you run through the setup.


----------



## neo__04

In regards to my comments with the strike water, Its more a convenience thing.
Everything else is automated, why not the strike water too? Seems simple enough.

Also am going to have a play with the hopping too.
Make a small hop dropper, with a servo on each hop linked to the hop alarm on the controller.

All just things to make the controller even more awesome.


----------



## MaxN68

you can do everything but you have to review the project. 
must change the pcb and you must use Arduino Mega.


----------



## Pirate323i

zwitter said:


> Hi Pirate323i
> What PCB have you selected in the sketch?
> There are several choices and some have different uses for the pins. So if it is not for the correct one the temp probe may not be connected to the temp pins the program is expecting?
> The instructions for ArdBir do explain this setup on first page. But it does require some level of understanding to load libraries and make changes.
> Maybe i can talk you through it one evening. Does the original code compile? Load? and work?
> James
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Hey Zwitter,
I have selected the "Brauduino original board" it is one from Lael. And I have loaded the libraries specified. I did notice that the "PID" library is not orange text like the other included libraries, although it does compile ok...
And in the "example code" from the OneWire library I selected pin 11 (which is what is called in the ArdBir code for this board) and it worked well.
Thanks for the offer of help. The original code will compile however because (I think) I am using the larger screen, it just flashes up the start screen with Brauduino and the temp, in my case it also showed 0.0*C then the screen goes blank...


----------



## Pirate323i

Ok, I am one step closer... 
With the help of an Arduino guru at work, I now have the temp reading correctly... We rewrote the code in the "void temperature" section. However I still can't progress past the screen saying "--- man auto setup" it appears to be stuck/frozen the temp displays however it does not change and none of the buttons work. 
What version of the ArdBir code are people using? 
Has anyone else had issues with it?
Please help!


----------



## lael

Put mathos code back on and see how it goes.


----------



## Pirate323i

I will try it again, however will it work on a 20x4 LCD?


----------



## lael

Yep, just two lines is all.


----------



## JackOfShadows

Max, maybe you'll create kind of a roadmap? For collecting wishes and applying if you have time and wish. Surely most of them will need more memory and Arduino Mega.

From my side I may suggest to connect an SD-card adapter with support of information MP3-files. Imagine a pleasant lady voice "Your bear is ready", space voice "Please add malt. Please add malt. Please add malt" or Armstrong's "Houston, we've got a problem". This will also need a good speaker, yes.


----------



## MaxN68

The idea SD I had already thought to do other things but honestly the most useful 
Staying with Arduino UNO instead I've made ​​some additions but should be tested.


----------



## neo__04

JackOfShadows said:


> Max, maybe you'll create kind of a roadmap? For collecting wishes and applying if you have time and wish. Surely most of them will need more memory and Arduino Mega.
> 
> From my side I may suggest to connect an SD-card adapter with support of information MP3-files. Imagine a pleasant lady voice "Your _*bear*_ is ready", space voice "Please add malt. Please add malt. Please add malt" or Armstrong's "Houston, we've got a problem". This will also need a good speaker, yes.


That must be an almighty big brew rig to make a bear


----------



## MastersBrewery

Neo__04 said:


> That must be an almighty big brew rig to make a bear


Don't judge, he's probably a member of our other sister site AHN (Australian Hunting Net). Myself I would have thought bear (koala the only available locally) a bit tough and strong in taste. Each to their own just remember to give the rig a good clean out before brewing again. h34r:

Ed: I see where your coming from Matho's original clone would probably only get half a koala in there, but I bet Lael could get 6 or 7 in


----------



## JackOfShadows

I'm from Russia - Siberia, snow, caviar, balalaika, cap with ear-flaps. And my bear always helps me in brewing.


----------



## Edak

In Soviet Russia bear brews you!


----------



## jwollmer

I have been trying to get the ardbir sketch to compile but I am having trouble. I was able to get past most the errors by moving the .h files to the Program Files (x86)\arduino\libraries directory, creating a directory for each .h file and placing the file in the directory, I am left with the following error and I am stumped. Any thoughts.

In file included from ArdBir.ino:108:
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LCD16x2_ENG/LCD16x2_ENG.h: In function 'void RecipeMenu()':
LCD16x2_ENG.h:351: error: too few arguments to function 'void Menu_3_4_2(byte)'
Recipe.h:201: error: at this point in file



Thanks


----------



## Pirate323i

easydoesit said:


> I have been trying to get the ardbir sketch to compile but I am having trouble. I was able to get past most the errors by moving the .h files to the Program Files (x86)\arduino\libraries directory, creating a directory for each .h file and placing the file in the directory, I am left with the following error and I am stumped. Any thoughts.
> In file included from ArdBir.ino:108:
> C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries\LCD16x2_ENG/LCD16x2_ENG.h: In function 'void RecipeMenu()':
> LCD16x2_ENG.h:351: error: too few arguments to function 'void Menu_3_4_2(byte)'
> Recipe.h:201: error: at this point in file
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


Are you using the GitHub version? I had problems getting that to compile also... Try using the version in the Dropbox you just need to have all the *.h files in the same folder as the .ino file. That way they open as tabs in the sketch window. I finally got mine to work yesterday!


----------



## Pirate323i

I'm a happy man! 
Mainly because my controller seems to now work, but also because I understand a lot more about Arduino and it's coding!!!
It turns out that MY Arduino UNO does not cooperate - the pull up resistors for each of the buttons did not appear to pull the analougue pins (A0, A1, A2 & A3) up enough...

My Arduino guru at work gave me an "EtherTen" which allegedly is an UNO and Ethernet shield in one...
However the temp would not read on pin 11... It worked on other pins... So, I wired my temp sensor to Analogue pin A5 (unused) and all good!

I have also rewritten the code for temperature, as I still could not get it to read... But that may be due to my sensor(?)...


----------



## MaxN68

Why did you change the code? 
Beware that there are so many variable that influence the system on several occasions corertto operation of the entire firmware


----------



## jwollmer

compiling the dropbox version did the trick. I was able to successfully compile ArdBir!
Thanks


----------



## MaxN68

Have you setting the correct PCB & LCD system/language?
Have you setting the parameters in eeprom?

hese are the most common mistakes with a failure to read the manual

I'm currently testing version 2.6.70 with some additions but first I would like to release it was well tested, because until the end of September I will not have time to do any correction


----------



## claudiobr74

Hi Max,
I need your help! In my city in Brazil the ebullition temperature is 97,5°C and at the control I only can choose 97 or 98ºC without decimals. How can I change the firmware to accept decimals at ebullition temperature setup?

Cheers,

Claudio


----------



## claudiobr74

Hello...

Anyone?...


----------



## MastersBrewery

That sort of accuracy for the boil is not really required, you should be able to use 98 and boil off % land with acceptable limits. 0.5 C shouldn't result in a boil over.

MB


----------



## PeteQ

Over 80 degrees your DS18B20 isn't accurate anyway...


----------



## claudiobr74

That was what I did! I have used 98°C and boiling was great but the counter didn't start, once never passes 97,5°C. And when I tried 97°C the boiling became weak. That is the reason I want made this firmware change. I believe that is not a hard work, but my arduino skils are limited.


----------



## claudiobr74

.


----------



## QldKev

claudiobr74 said:


> That was what I did! I have used 98°C and boiling was great but the counter didn't start, once never passes 97,5°C. And when I tried 97°C the boiling became weak. That is the reason I want made this firmware change. I believe that is not a hard work, but my arduino skils are limited.



My method may not be the best as it does need manual input, but I find it works for me. What I do is leave it at the original 98c (in your case set to 97c) so it triggers the boil timer, but it is not hot enough for a potential boil over. Once it starts timing I then use the up arrow to set the temperature to 111c so the element stays on 100% duty, and I can monitor for a boil over. I also have it set to a 70min boil, rather than 60min to allow the extra time to get to a full clean rolling boil.


----------



## MastersBrewery

The counter is an entirely different problem.
what code are you using ? Matho's original code ? or ArdBir ? and what version?


----------



## claudiobr74

I'm using the last firmware (v10). There's no problem with the counter. It works fine. It didn't start because the temperature never reaches 98°C.


----------



## claudiobr74

QldKev said:


> My method may not be the best as it does need manual input, but I find it works for me. What I do is leave it at the original 98c (in your case set to 97c) so it triggers the boil timer, but it is not hot enough for a potential boil over. Once it starts timing I then use the up arrow to set the temperature to 111c so the element stays on 100% duty, and I can monitor for a boil over. I also have it set to a 70min boil, rather than 60min to allow the extra time to get to a full clean rolling boil.


 Thats a great idea! How didn't think this. It certainly has the manual incovenient but it is a solution for now.

Cheers


----------



## xredwood

I've been looking at upgrading my pump to a 240v pump. Am I right in looking at the wiring diagram in the Brauduino that it can switch 240v directly? Just run a live to one pump terminal on the pcb then the other terminal to the pump, directly wire the neutral and make sure it's grounded?


----------



## Pirate323i

MaxN68 said:


> Why did you change the code?
> Beware that there are so many variable that influence the system on several occasions corertto operation of the entire firmware


Hi Max,
I changed the code as I could not get the temperature to read... It merely said 0.0*C I suspect it is an issue with my temp sensor because Matho's code did not work either. I first got it to work by pasting in the code from the OneWire example. however I then further reduced the coding by calling the Dallas Library and it uses about 3 lines of code. I also had to change the pin for temp reading as for some reason my pin 11 does not work on my Arduino... I have wired it to pin A5 (not used on the Brauduino shield) and added my 4k7 resistor external to the board.
I certainly appreciate all the work that has gone into this code by all the contributors! Now I just need to get my physical build finished so I can start brewing!


----------



## MaxN68

The difference of code between Brauduino and ArdBir on the reading of the temperature is in the use of a 9-bit bus vs. 2 bits for error control of reading (probe not inserted reads 0 ° C) 

For a more precise reading should be added to the library Dallas but this takes up too much space and I do not believe that the benefits are considerable. It would be very different if you were using multiple probes because the library Dallas allows the management of multiple sensors in parallel


----------



## eresh666

I managed to get my kit put together today however managed to get a few transistors around the wrong way (display was scrambled with only AC in live). When trying to de-solder I managed to burn the board and the little metal ring that you solder the transistors to came off. I'm not sure how to solder the transistors back in now!

Can it be saved or do I have to get another board and de-solder everything (this time properly with a pump).

excuse the dog breakfast of cabling it will all be secured once I know everything is working.


----------



## MaxN68

in the next few days will be published version 2.6.70 with some minor new features useful in complete automation of the process and a small utility in manual mode


----------



## lael

eresh666 said:


> I managed to get my kit put together today however managed to get a few transistors around the wrong way (display was scrambled with only AC in live). When trying to de-solder I managed to burn the board and the little metal ring that you solder the transistors to came off. I'm not sure how to solder the transistors back in now!
> 
> Can it be saved or do I have to get another board and de-solder everything (this time properly with a pump).
> 
> excuse the dog breakfast of cabling it will all be secured once I know everything is working.



It's not promising. You can try adding a little solder on both sides of the board where the resistors go in and see how it goes.


----------



## dca

All you need to do is determine the intended connections at the node where the broken pad is (from schematic), and reconnect the resistor pin to the nearest place (other component pin, pad, or via) where it can reestablish the original connection points. Do this by soldering some very small gauge wire to recreate the connections. Good luck...


----------



## Pirate323i

I agree, get some insulated wire and jumper from the resistor to where it is connected... That is bypass the board. These resistors are external pull-up resistors for the buttons, and should not effect how the screen displays.. It is possible that your 240v wiring is affecting the screen. Cavemanbrew had a similar problem. I believe it was a matter of tidying the wiring that fixed the problem. 
Good luck!


----------



## eresh666

thanks guys.

I managed to salvage the board and get all the transistors back in, I will double check the wiring again and hopefully sort out the scrambling.


----------



## Smokomark

I finally got around to putting together my Matho / Bonj circuit boards over the last couple of weeks. Idid the box and 240 side well over a year ago.
On powering up everything looks good, temp displaying ok. I can go into setup and enter my mash and hop schedule. In fact everything seems fine except one thing. The start button does nothing. I have replaced the button and gone over both boards and resoldered every connections.


Any suggestions where to go from here?


----------



## zwitter

Hi Smokomark
Do you have a volt meter or resistance meter?

Power off ansd unplug from wall
Un plug the arduino.
Measure from ground side of switch to the gnd connection to 12v supply. Should be close to 0 ohms

Measure other side of switch to resistor R1. Should be close to 0 ohms one end of resistor and 10,000 (10k) the other end. It should also be close to 0 ohms from same side of switch to pin 1 of J8 connector to arduino.

You could compare with one of the other switches. Like next switch and R2 and pin 2 of J8

Probably check the value of the resistors and that arduino plugs in correctly.

And that if you programmed arduino that you selected correct board type and display type etc.

Zwitter
James



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Pirate323i

It could also be an issue with the arduino board... None of the buttons worked with my "arduino uno clone" and I had issues with pin 11 on my "etherten" board (solved by rewiring to pin A5)...
Good luck!


----------



## MaxN68

version 2.6.70 
MANUAL MODE: You can switch the timer in a countdown acting simultaneously on buttons START + ENTER and setting the time with the UP and DOWN buttons. Repressing START + ENTER to activate the countdown 

SET PID: was placed the duration of the sampling cycle to 3500ms and rescaled the value of kI (0.25) in order to have a more precise control of this constant. 
During configuration must be rescaled by multiplying the old value by 4. 

SET UNIT: two configurations have been added that allow you to check the status of Remove Malt and Iodine Test. 
- Remove Malt: you can set the temperature control (ON/OFF) only to systems with internal temperature sensor 
- Iodine Test: You can set the maximum execution time of the extra time (max 90 min) after which the system automatically advances to the next step; it is always possible to manually move forward step. 
Setting the time to 0 min (OFF) user intervention is required for the advancement of the step.

CAUTION: For proper operation, proceed to configure the unit in its entirety before you perform any of the brewing cycle.


----------



## MaxN68

Version 2.6.70 updated

Clarification on the use of the new system PID 

Version 2.6.63 and earlier: value kI = 1 
Version 2.6.65: kI value = 0.25 
Version 2.6.70: kI value = 0.25 

So the conversion of the kI value in the SET PID should be done only if you used a version 2.6.63 or earlier.


----------



## Smokomark

zwitter said:


> Hi Smokomark
> Do you have a volt meter or resistance meter?
> Power off ansd unplug from wall
> Un plug the arduino.
> Measure from ground side of switch to the gnd connection to 12v supply. Should be close to 0 ohms
> Measure other side of switch to resistor R1. Should be close to 0 ohms one end of resistor and 10,000 (10k) the other end. It should also be close to 0 ohms from same side of switch to pin 1 of J8 connector to arduino.
> You could compare with one of the other switches. Like next switch and R2 and pin 2 of J8
> Probably check the value of the resistors and that arduino plugs in correctly.
> And that if you programmed arduino that you selected correct board type and display type etc.
> Zwitter
> James
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Thanks James.
I had checked reistance from switches to board connection, all checked out ok. 
Tonight I checked from switch to resistor and found open circuit from start switch to resistor. I soldered in a jumper from switch to resistor and all works fine.

Thanks for your help troubleshooting this guys. Much appreciated. 

Mark


----------



## eresh666

Pirate323i said:


> I agree, get some insulated wire and jumper from the resistor to where it is connected... That is bypass the board. These resistors are external pull-up resistors for the buttons, and should not effect how the screen displays.. It is possible that your 240v wiring is affecting the screen. Cavemanbrew had a similar problem. I believe it was a matter of tidying the wiring that fixed the problem.
> Good luck!


spent a couple hours trying to find the problem its most likely the solder. either I get not display, all squares or messed up characters with the odd '!' or '?'. Its driving me nuts as the board is starting to take its toll due to all the resoldering (I have been using a multimeter to check for continuity).


----------



## Deevotronics

Ive got a second Arduino UNO R3 and and wanted to try ArdBir program, so I flashed ArdBir from Dropbox (tried both 2_6_70 and 2_6_63) and get the following error on upload, compile works fine.

avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x7800
0x6d != 0xff
avrdude: verification error; content mismatch

Any ideas? Flashed with Brauduino2.ino and it works fine. Im using original PCB with 16x2 LCD.

Cheers.


----------



## marksy

Most my errors uploading are because I've swapped boards and forgot to select it or another device is using my com port and I haven't selected the right com port for board.


----------



## djar007

Have you flashed the boatloader mate. With tiny usb or the like.


----------



## Rambo

Hoping someone can help me with a problem I'm having uploading ArdBir (or anything) to my arduino.

Finally got my controller finished over the weekend, and seemed to be working ok with Matho's code that was uploaded already by Lael. There seemed to be a few bugs (numbers not displaying correctly) so I thought Id try uploading ArdBir. This all worked fine (once I worked out how to download and install the extra libraries) though when I plugged it back in to the controller the buzzer started going off continuisly.

I unplugged it and did some more reading and saw that the ArdBir program swaps the buzzer and heater pins. Not sure if this is why I had the problems butI decided to re upload Matho's code....

Now here is the problem, when I try to upload it the Arduino software tells me "serial port com3 not found". I then go up to change the serial port and it is greyed out and I cant select it. I also tried to change it from the device manager but cant see any serial ports there either. Googleing told me that it may be the cord, so I replaced that today and still the same.

Any help here would be very much appriciated.


----------



## djar007

Can you try another usb port on another computer.


----------



## Rambo

I've tried several USB ports, but only have the one computer. I'll try it on a mates computer on the weekend if I haven't worked it out by then.


----------



## djar007

Could you try reinstalling drivers. Check for conflicts.


----------



## Rambo

I reinstalled the arduino program... Couldn't work out how to reinstall the driver.


----------



## djar007

Try this mate.http://arduino.cc/en/guide/windows


----------



## neo__04

A couple of queries,

With no temp probe connected, what should the temp read? Shouldnt it be 4000c or something?

With the latest firmware 2.70 ardbir, The buzzer is on and stay on as soon as the controller is powered up.
Also the temp reads 0.0c

Any idea what this could be?

edit: I have the right LCD & right board selected in the setup..


----------



## Rambo

My problem with doing that is that there is no port dropdown to choose from.


----------



## MaxN68

Read the manual before use ArdBir for any configuration (Hardware & Software)


----------



## neo__04

Rambo, If there is nothing plugged in, there will be no ports tab.

Just confirmed that on my pc. With the ardruino plugged in, it shows the ports tab and the device listed,
when its unplugged, the device goes, and so does the whole ports tab.

Is the arduino powering up when plugged in via usb to the pc?


----------



## Rambo

Yeah, the arduino is plugged in, and the lights are on (but seemingly no one is home).


----------



## real_beer

Rambo said:


> Yeah, the arduino is plugged in, and the lights are on (but seemingly no one is home).


Rambo, you could try choosing different arduino boards in the Tools menu and also closing down & starting up the Arduino IDE again when you do. This has worked for me in the past, don't ask me why it worked though. I think the problem lies more within the Arduino IDE code because I had my issues using Linux Mint. After the port was recognised I chose my Arduino Uno board and everything was fine again.


----------



## Rambo

real_beer said:


> Rambo, you could try choosing different arduino boards in the Tools menu and also closing down & starting up the Arduino IDE again when you do. This has worked for me in the past, don't ask me why it worked though. I think the problem lies more within the Arduino IDE code because I had my issues using Linux Mint. After the port was recognised I chose my Arduino Uno board and everything was fine again.


Cheers mate, tried that and no luck for me unfortunately




djar007 said:


> Can you try another usb port on another computer.


Dug out my girlfriends old netbook and downloaded the arduino software (finally... man how did we manage to not kill anyone when using computers in the past.... so SLOW)....... and it works, so at least I know its not the arduino board. Still no idea whats causing it on my computer though.

Thanks for all the replies guys.


----------



## Rambo

Hmmm... Think I spoke too soon. I'll give it another try tomorrow when I'm not so frustrated. Think I may need to get a new one.


----------



## neo__04

Update on my problem,

I got the controller up and running, got the temp probe to come up with a temperature, changes when i put the sensor in water, so all good there.
But a couple of things don't seem right.
1. The buzzer is constantly on, all the time, not sure why. Can i try wiring to an unused output?
2. The pump output doesnt seem to do anything.

Am i correct in assuming the pump terminals are just a bridge? As per mathos original wiring diagram, i have a 240v pump and it shows the active
going to either side of the terminal. Basically just bridges the active to turn on the pump.

I tested it in manual mode, pump on, no bride across the terminals.

Any help would be great

EDIT: Upon looking at the wiring diagrams and circuit board layout, i can see the pump terminals are just a bridge, controlled by a normally open relay. I can hear a relay getting triggered when the auto pump prime happens when you start the auto mode. But no bridge across the terminals


----------



## real_beer

Rambo said:


> Hmmm... Think I spoke too soon. I'll give it another try tomorrow when I'm not so frustrated. Think I may need to get a new one.


I just uploaded the latest version 2.6.70 onto my Matho shield which I think is the same as the Arduino Uno using the following settings:

Board - Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5V, 16MHz) W/ ATmega328)
Programmer - AVRISP mkII
Serial Monitor - Both NL & CR 38400 baud

This took about an hour trying lots of different settings & plugging the usb in and out before it finally uploaded. Some things are just quirky and this seems to be one of them


----------



## MaxN68

Have you set the correct pcb on sketch?


----------



## marksy

Rambo said:


> Hmmm... Think I spoke too soon. I'll give it another try tomorrow when I'm not so frustrated. Think I may need to get a new one.



What com port is the USB serial set to under device manager?


----------



## Pirate323i

Neo__04 said:


> Update on my problem,
> 
> I got the controller up and running, got the temp probe to come up with a temperature, changes when i put the sensor in water, so all good there.
> But a couple of things don't seem right.
> 1. The buzzer is constantly on, all the time, not sure why. Can i try wiring to an unused output?
> 2. The pump output doesnt seem to do anything.
> 
> Am i correct in assuming the pump terminals are just a bridge? As per mathos original wiring diagram, i have a 240v pump and it shows the active
> going to either side of the terminal. Basically just bridges the active to turn on the pump.
> 
> I tested it in manual mode, pump on, no bride across the terminals.
> 
> Any help would be great
> 
> EDIT: Upon looking at the wiring diagrams and circuit board layout, i can see the pump terminals are just a bridge, controlled by a normally open relay. I can hear a relay getting triggered when the auto pump prime happens when you start the auto mode. But no bridge across the terminals


Check that your transistors are in correctly... That is, use a multimeter to confirm that the pins are the correct orientation... One of them controls the buzzer and if it is back to front (or dead) it will run continuously... (Don't ask how I know)
Good luck!


----------



## MaxN68

it is probably a problem with the compilation for a pcb incorrect.


----------



## Rambo

real_beer said:


> I just uploaded the latest version 2.6.70 onto my Matho shield which I think is the same as the Arduino Uno using the following settings:
> 
> Board - Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5V, 16MHz) W/ ATmega328)
> Programmer - AVRISP mkII
> Serial Monitor - Both NL & CR 38400 baud
> 
> This took about an hour trying lots of different settings & plugging the usb in and out before it finally uploaded. Some things are just quirky and this seems to be one of them


Cheers mate, still no luck for me though.


MaxN68 said:


> Have you set the correct pcb on sketch?


Do you mean "board" from the tools dropdown? If so, I've tried them all.


marksy said:


> What com port is the USB serial set to under device manager?


On my computer I dont even have the option for comports in the device manager, and on my girlfriends computer the USB serial is not showing up when I plug in the arduino.

This is the error I am getting on my GFs computer
arvrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00

Thanks for all your help guys, I'm going to try it on a mates computer over the weekend and if I dont have any luck I may just get a new arduino. The thing thats frustrating me most is that it was working for a while, but just suddenly stopped.... just as I thought I understood what I was doing.


----------



## MastersBrewery

The LED's are intergral to the working of both the heating and pump circuits, ensure these have good clean conections.

MB


----------



## zwitter

Deevotronics said:


> Ive got a second Arduino UNO R3 and and wanted to try ArdBir program, so I flashed ArdBir from Dropbox (tried both 2_6_70 and 2_6_63) and get the following error on upload, compile works fine.
> 
> avrdude: verification error, first mismatch at byte 0x7800
> 0x6d != 0xff
> avrdude: verification error; content mismatch
> 
> Any ideas? Flashed with Brauduino2.ino and it works fine. Im using original PCB with 16x2 LCD.
> 
> Cheers.


Hi Deevotronics
I have same issue with the Uno I received with the shield kit. I had a different Uno and it works fine. The original one does work with short programs but not ArdBir.

I bought 2 more Uno from ebay in china and they cost less than $20 delivered for 2.
I think original one may have a memory fault but for the price it is not really worth looking too hard.

James



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## zwitter

Rambo said:


> Cheers mate, still no luck for me though.
> Do you mean "board" from the tools dropdown? If so, I've tried them all.
> On my computer I dont even have the option for comports in the device manager, and on my girlfriends computer the USB serial is not showing up when I plug in the arduino.
> 
> This is the error I am getting on my GFs computer
> arvrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
> 
> Thanks for all your help guys, I'm going to try it on a mates computer over the weekend and if I dont have any luck I may just get a new arduino. The thing thats frustrating me most is that it was working for a while, but just suddenly stopped.... just as I thought I understood what I was doing.


Hi Rambo

I will blame consumption of alcoholic beverages. The answers are being suggested in this topic but you are missing the jargon.

Max has said repeatedly that the first page of the manual for the software is extremely important. This is more so as we add more features. The sketch has parameters that need to be edited according to the hardware you are loading it into. These are on that first page. You need to specify the PCB = shield = circuit board that the Arduino plugs into. Also the size of the LCD you have connected and language. Without doing this the pins being used to control things and the messages on the display will be messed up.

The changes are made by adding or removing // at the start of lines of code. If the slashes are there then the line is a remark and is ignored by the compiler. If these slashes are removed then it becomes code and is compiled.

With your Arduino and com ports. Part of the Arduino install it installs a driver to make the Arduino plugged into a USB port appear as a serial communications port or Com port. The com port is a virtual one and only appears in the Device manager list when it is plugged in. If you change USB ports then the com port will change as well. In fact a different Arduino may also have a different com port assigned to it. 

I suggest you try the following
read the first page of the instructions for the software.
Reinstall the Arduino program.
Check that the Arduino uno is recognised and assigns a com port when it is plugged in.
In the Arduino software select the Uno as the board. And the com port as it was in the above step.
In the sketch, edit with slash marks the PCB as original, LCD as either 16 or 20 in eng for english and search for the LCD as per ArdBir setup on first page and chose 16 or 20 further down in the code.
Compile and check for errors.
Report back.

Nobody said this was easy, it is not. I am electronics engineer for 30 plus years and it took many hours of setup and sorting errors before I managed to compile the code and then it crashed when uploading. I had a faulty Uno. This is a learning experience for many of us. For me the hardware is simple but the code is new.

I like Lael's idea to provide the boards pre built and code loaded but the code changes so often it is valuable to understand how it is done.

I would be happy to assist sorting the issues with hardware and loading Uno. I am in North Rocks in Sydney.

James
Zwitter

PS I am still messing with the pots and pumps etc this is a constant process in attaining brewing perfection.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MaxN68

I encountered a small problem with the pump in manual mode. I corrected but I can not test it thoroughly. latest update file


----------



## neo__04

Working on my problems tonight,

I think maybe the transistor running the buzzer is stuffed. The Emitter and collector or both connected to ground with no power supplied to the base.
The buzzer has constant 12v and the output from the arduino gives some voltage to the transistor to trigger it to send ground to the buzzer to complete the circuit. So I assume thats whats causing that problem. Can i use any old transistor to replace it? I pulled apart a 12v chinese power supply and found some similar transistors. These attach pdf is the specs.

Still trying to work out my problem with the pump, possibly the relay, still working on that 

View attachment 483179_DS.pdf


----------



## MaxN68

I also have a problem with buzzer that sounds continuously if I forget to modify the correct PCB active. 

ArdBir was developed while maintaining compatibility with the PCB of Matho and by implementing a new one easier realization housewife. 
I personally use an experimental PCB that has different inputs and outputs with respect to both. 

I repeat: you set the correct PCB inside the sketch before uploading?


----------



## neo__04

Yes definately, i always select #include "Pcb_Brauduinriginal.h as im using mathos v2.1 board


----------



## neo__04

Just to confirm, can someone with some electrical/wiring knowledge give me some advice on this one.
I pulled the transistor Q3 out of the board. This one is for the buzzer.

The transistor has 3 pins, 2 in the base, 3 is the collector, 1 is the emitter.
2(base) should run through the R11 resistor back to output 10
1 goes to ground
3 goes to the negative terminal for the buzzer.

So the buzzer terminal has constant voltage on + pin and get ground when the output 10 puts a voltage to the base pin of the transistor
which bridges pin 1 & 3 creating a circuit for the buzzer terminals.

I'm resonably sure this is correct from looking at the schematic etc..

My question, With no transistor connected to the board, should there be a bridge between pin 1 & 3?

Currently it has a bridge, which basically means the circuit is constant anyway so the buzzer always runs.

Something funny going on here or i've done something wrong.


----------



## Rambo

zwitter said:


> With your Arduino and com ports. Part of the Arduino install it installs a driver to make the Arduino plugged into a USB port appear as a serial communications port or Com port. The com port is a virtual one and only appears in the Device manager list when it is plugged in. If you change USB ports then the com port will change as well. In fact a different Arduino may also have a different com port assigned to it.


Thanks so much for all that information, it has helped me understand the whole thing a lot more.

My problem though is the part I have quoted above. The 'serial port' from the 'tools' dropdown in the arduino IDE software is greyed out so I cannot select a comport. There is also no comport listed in the device manager as per my previous photo.

The arduino uno is plugged in (and the lights on the board are on). I have tried 2 cords (one brand new). I have tried to reinstall the program.... and still no luck.

Am I missing something? do I need to buy a new arduino?


----------



## zwitter

Hi Rambo

You need USB drivers for the computer to know what an Arduino is when it is plugged in. See http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/Howto Item 3 i think.

When the driver is installed it will recognise the Arduino Uno and assign a com port number to it. It will also allow the Arduino environment to see the board is connected and display the com port in the drop down in tools.

See how you go.

Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## neo__04

Ok well another little update.

The Pump problem isnt a problem. A trap for young players, have been doing all my testing on usb to make sure everything is ok before wiring up the 240v.
The problem was that a 12v relay wont trigger with the 5v of USB. lol. I should have known that. So the pump is not a problem,

But the buzzer constantly on is still a drama. Advice there would be great!


----------



## MaxN68

just one question: how did you set up the following code?


Code:


// SETTING PCB*****
// Select your PCB Version

// Testing PCB
//#include "Pcb_05.h"
//#include "Pcb_11s.h"
//#include "Pcb_14.h"

// Supported PCB
//#include "Pcb_ArdBir_DanielXan.h"
//#include "Pcb_Brauduino_DanielXan.h"
//#include "Pcb_Brauduino_Original.h"




Code:


// SETTING LCD*****
// Select your LCD

// LANGUAGE ITA
//#include "LCD16x2_ITA.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ITA.h"

// LANGUAGE ENG
//#include "LCD16x2_ENG.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ENG.h"

// LANGUAGE ESP
//#include "LCD16x2_ESP.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ESP.h"

// LANGUAGE POR
//#include "LCD16x2_POR.h" ** Not Available
//#include "LCD20x4_POR.h"




Code:


// SETTING LCD*****
// Select your LCD
//  lcd.begin(16,2);
//  lcd.begin(20,4);


----------



## Rambo

zwitter said:


> Hi Rambo
> 
> You need USB drivers for the computer to know what an Arduino is when it is plugged in. See http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/Howto Item 3 i think.
> 
> When the driver is installed it will recognise the Arduino Uno and assign a com port number to it. It will also allow the Arduino environment to see the board is connected and display the com port in the drop down in tools.
> 
> See how you go.
> 
> Zwitter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Thanks for your help again mate... I got a little bit further this time but still seems like the board is not being recognised by my computer. This is what its saying now.

Big day at work tomorrow, so will have to wait till the weekend I think before I look at it anymore


----------



## neo__04

// SETTING PCB*****
// Select your PCB Version

// Testing PCB
//#include "Pcb_05.h"
//#include "Pcb_11s.h"
//#include "Pcb_14.h"

// Supported PCB
//#include "Pcb_ArdBir_DanielXan.h"
//#include "Pcb_Brauduino_DanielXan.h"
#include "Pcb_Brauduinriginal.h"


------------------------

// SETTING LCD*****
// Select your LCD

// LANGUAGE ITA
//#include "LCD16x2_ITA.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ITA.h"

// LANGUAGE ENG
//#include "LCD16x2_ENG.h"
#include "LCD20x4_ENG.h"

// LANGUAGE ESP
//#include "LCD16x2_ESP.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ESP.h"

// LANGUAGE POR
//#include "LCD16x2_POR.h" ** Not Available
//#include "LCD20x4_POR.h"


----------



## marksy

Rambo said:


> Cheers mate, still no luck for me though.
> Do you mean "board" from the tools dropdown? If so, I've tried them all.
> On my computer I dont even have the option for comports in the device manager, and on my girlfriends computer the USB serial is not showing up when I plug in the arduino.
> 
> This is the error I am getting on my GFs computer
> arvrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
> 
> Thanks for all your help guys, I'm going to try it on a mates computer over the weekend and if I dont have any luck I may just get a new arduino. The thing thats frustrating me most is that it was working for a while, but just suddenly stopped.... just as I thought I understood what I was doing.


Sorry, you'll need to click on the USB serial device then look at its settings. Also try reinstalling software.


----------



## Pirate323i

Neo__04 said:


> Ok well another little update.
> 
> The Pump problem isnt a problem. A trap for young players, have been doing all my testing on usb to make sure everything is ok before wiring up the 240v.
> The problem was that a 12v relay wont trigger with the 5v of USB. lol. I should have known that. So the pump is not a problem,
> 
> But the buzzer constantly on is still a drama. Advice there would be great!


I assume you have selected the correct board in the code as Max points out...

I had a similar problem. (I accidentally shorted my LCD which killed the transistor) google how to test a transistor with a multimeter, very simple. It is a pretty run-of-the-mill component. It does not need much current. (Only running a buzzer) BUT make sure you test which leg is which! They don't appear to be very standard... Then just make sure you install it as per the wiring schematic- not as per the outline/"flat" drawn on the PCB. 
Good luck!


----------



## zwitter

Hi Neo

You have not read the instructions on the first page of the SW manual.

You set the LCD and Language and the PCB correctly but not completely. Your reply chops out the last half dozen lines and that is important.



MaxN68 said:


> just one question: how did you set up the following code?
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> // SETTING PCB*****
> //
> .....
> ...
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> // SETTING LCD*****
> // Select your LCD
> //  lcd.begin(16,2);
> //  lcd.begin(20,4);



You need to edit this last bit and un comment one of the two lines. The SW manaul says search for the setting LCD and it is a fair way down in the sketch but display does not work if you do not edit this bit.

This has been pointed out by Max and Lael and myself several times.

Give it a go and let us know

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## neo__04

Yeah i left that bit out as i have it set correctly and max was wanting to make sure i had the board correct (output correct)
My board setup is perfect.

I had everything soldered in as per the kit instructions.

But i think something may be up with the circuit board.

In regards to the Q3 transistor, The left top pin goes to ground, the right top pin goes to the negative terminal of the buzzer, and the bottom pin goes through the resistor to output 10. When the output is turned on, the top left and top right pins should short and send ground to the - terminal of the buzzer.

Is someone able to tell me, With the Q3 transistor shown on the board layout attached, with no transistor, should the top 2 pins have a short with no transistor in the board?


----------



## Deevotronics

The Q3 shouldnt have short circuit all the time between the top two pins, especially if there is no transistor in place. Check for solder or fine pieces of copper on the PCB.


----------



## neo__04

thanks for that deevo, i assumed that was the case.

I have a short on mine, so i'll have to work out what the go is.

Might just wire around it. Will be easier


----------



## Rambo

My new arduino arrived today and I had the program loaded within 5 minutes. 

Happiness soon made way to more frustration. When I connected everything up. Only half my screen is showing up.




Do I need to replace the screen aswell? Our is there anything else that could be causing this? Appreciate any advice from those who understand the inner workings better than me.

Cheers


----------



## djar007

Did you change the code for your small screen mate.


----------



## Rambo

I think I did it right...

// SETTING LCD*****
// Select your LCD

// LANGUAGE ITA
//#include "LCD16x2_ITA.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ITA.h"

// LANGUAGE ENG
#include "LCD16x2_ENG.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ENG.h"

// LANGUAGE ESP
//#include "LCD16x2_ESP.h"
//#include "LCD20x4_ESP.h"

// LANGUAGE POR
//#include "LCD16x2_POR.h" ** Not Available
//#include "LCD20x4_POR.h"

// *****


Is this right?


----------



## djar007

Yeah but did you change it further down the code too. I forget which line but up from the end about fifty lines..


----------



## Rambo

Do you mean this part?

// SETTING LCD*****
// Select your LCD
lcd.begin(16,2);
// lcd.begin(20,4);


----------



## djar007

Looks right. Did you select the correct board.


----------



## Rambo

// SETTING PCB*****
// Select your PCB Version

// Testing PCB
//#include "Pcb_05.h"
//#include "Pcb_11s.h"
//#include "Pcb_14.h"

// Supported PCB
//#include "Pcb_ArdBir_DanielXan.h"
#include "Pcb_Brauduino_DanielXan.h"
//#include "Pcb_Brauduinriginal.h"


----------



## djar007

Try original. H


----------



## Rambo

Cheers mate, will do that now.


----------



## Rambo

hmmmm.... still the same.

I fear that whatever I did to stuff the original arduino has also done something to the screen.

Thanks for your help though mate.


----------



## djar007

No worries. I have extra screens if you need one. Where are you in oz.


----------



## Rambo

Cheers mate... I'm in Brissy. I'll be in contact soon if I cant work out a solution.


----------



## dca

I think the 16x2 LCDs have separate Enable pins for each side of the display. Not sure of the P/N that is used to ID the pin number, but that is something to narrow it down ...still could possibly be a damaged LCD, tho...


----------



## rafinus

Hi guys,

I have a little problem or I don´t know what happens. I just update my system to this new version of ArdBir (ArdBir_2_6_70b7) and I try to do the most accurate config but without success (or close).

In resume, the only thing I don't get is when in the boil, if the pump doesn't work, the measured temp don't actualize very well and sometimes have a 5 to 10 degrees (Celsius) of difference.

Any tip?

PS: I tried different configs to PID (kp, kd, ki), windowset, calibration, outside, inside probe, etc. With Mathos original works with no problem.

Thanks,


----------



## djar007

What did you set calibration to?


----------



## rafinus

Yes, the first attempt 0,00, then 1, 2, 3..until 5, but without success. And negative to, -1, -2...


----------



## lael

Make sure you have pump set to on for the boil and the pump temp set high enough.


----------



## rafinus

Lael, I do this, but in my system if in the boil phase I set the pump ON, it lost efficiency and the temperature it takes too long to reach.

Why don´t work?


----------



## lael

Have you set up all the parameters for the unit? The eeprom locations are not the same between the versions and cross over. Might be worth doing an eeprom wipe (technically unnecessary) and then reflash ardbir. Set up all parameters and auto settings and then try again.


----------



## rafinus

Yes, I set all de parameters.

How I can wipe the eeprom?


----------



## lael

There is an example sketch in the arduino software.


----------



## rafinus

This one?

/*
* EEPROM Clear
*
* Sets all of the bytes of the EEPROM to 0.
* This example code is in the public domain.

*/

#include <EEPROM.h>

void setup()
{
// write a 0 to all 512 bytes of the EEPROM
for (int i = 0; i < 512; i++)
 EEPROM.write(i, 0);

// turn the LED on when we're done
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
}

void loop()
{
}


----------



## lael

That's it!


----------



## MaxN68

the reset procedure of the EEPROM is not required, the I explained repeatedly. it writes the values ​​that are not valid, however, in reading. the only correct procedure is to configure the entire system. if you have problems post your entire configuration and try to understand the error function by these parameters.


----------



## lael

Sorry Max, I know, but it eliminates a possibility of confusion.


----------



## MaxN68

with the reset procedure are written values ​​equal to 0 for each cell of the EEPROM. this value is valid if it is read in the single cell in a given mode. the procedure uses multiple modes of reading of the single cell or even of coupled cells in which the values ​​are divided exponentially to allow the recording of values ​​greater than 1 bit. do not need to reset and create even more confusion. ArdBir installed, configured ALL and then if there are any problems post your configuration and describe the problem


----------



## Eagleburger

Where can I get a pcb? Cheers


----------



## djar007

Lael is organising a few mate. Have a look at his thread.


----------



## TheLukkman

Almost finish my build, just waiting for the tempsensor. Tryed to start it up in manual but only got light signal on pump not on heat. I am running two heatelement 2200 w each, using two separate 220v but controlling the relay in parallell.


----------



## djar007

Did you set the heating temp above the water temp. Got me a couple of times.


----------



## TheLukkman

No it show 4095,75 C so i proporably have to waiting until i get my temp sensor, to get it right. I can almost not wait to connect it to my brew setup. It is an old rebuildt washing machine, max capacity 75 liters. But i run it whit suction from bottom and flysparge the innertube is from an old water heater it works very good. I also use an Speidel Braumeister 50 l, so i am exited to see and compare it whit Mathos Controller


----------



## lael

Looks cool! It won't work until you have a temp reading below the set point. It's a nice fail safe.


----------



## tateg

Any one using this controller to delay the start on brewing ? 
Just wondering how others are going about it 
Cheers


----------



## tateg

Any one using this controller to delay the start on brewing ? 
Just wondering how others are going about it 
Cheers


----------



## djar007

It's in the code. A start later option. Set time and it delays start. That's the ardbir code. Check out open ardbir Pdf.


----------



## tateg

djar007 said:


> It's in the code. A start later option. Set time and it delays start. That's the ardbir code. Check out open ardbir Pdf.


Thanks djar
But way temp and how long could h leave it before starting.
Could I put the grain in the night before and set it to starts the process at like 4 or 5?


----------



## djar007

Yeah mate you can. I don't have access to the Pdf at the moment. But it explains how to set it in that. So. Even will be able to give you link to it. Regards dave.


----------



## tateg

Thanks Dave 
I reread the manual and it seems that the time delay will only delay mash in and will still need user input to continue


----------



## tateg

Double post


----------



## MaxN68

The start delayed shifts the start of heating the water from the time when the process is active for the duration of choice. 
At the end of this waiting time the water starts heating up to the set threshold.
At this point it is required by the operator for confirmation and the inclusion of grains. 

The addition of grains and removal are the only times when you are forced to intervene personally, everything else can be automated based on the configuration choices made


----------



## MaxN68

I would like to estimate how many people are using this firmware. 
On the *facebook page* I put a post fixed with which to count the number of people who actually use ArdBir. 
I'd love to figure out how many we are. 
Thank you


----------



## pat_00

So, like an idiot I had the 12v PSU connections reversed when I started it up.

I seem to have blown the display backlight, everything else seems OK.

Is there a part number for the display? I need to replace it as I can't read it without the backight.


----------



## rafinus

Hi guys, 

Yesterday I made a batch and figure out that the sensor in the chiller time doesn't work again. I use a immersion chiller and the temp in arduino mark like 35C and the real temp inside the vessel was 24C.

Any tip?

PS: I bought another DS18B20 to test when arrive.

Thanks,





rafinus said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I have a little problem or I don´t know what happens. I just update my system to this new version of ArdBir (ArdBir_2_6_70b7) and I try to do the most accurate config but without success (or close).
> 
> In resume, the only thing I don't get is when in the boil, if the pump doesn't work, the measured temp don't actualize very well and sometimes have a 5 to 10 degrees (Celsius) of difference.
> 
> Any tip?
> 
> PS: I tried different configs to PID (kp, kd, ki), windowset, calibration, outside, inside probe, etc. With Mathos original works with no problem.
> 
> Thanks,


----------



## MaxN68

Have you set the calibration parameter?


----------



## rafinus

Yes, and try a lot of combinations.


----------



## bcavan

MaxN68 said:


> Have you set the calibration parameter?


Hi Max,

I just discovered a bug in the temperature calibration that might be relevant.
When I uploaded the latest ArdBir sketch 2_6_70b7 (previously used Mathos code) I noticed that my temperature probe was incorrectly measuring 47 degrees Celsius, but when I load the mathos original sketch it correctly reads 21 degrees celsius.
When I checked the calibration temperature in the PID config menu I noticed that the value was set to -0.1 degrees, when I tried to compensate for the higher value the maximum adjustment that I could enter was -5.0 degrees and this resulted in the display showing 42 degrees celsius (again incorrect).
When I changed the calibration value back to 0 (or any positive value), the display showed a correct temperature of 21 degrees celsius.
It looks like any negative temperature adjustment causes the temperature to read incorrectly. 
I tried several other earlier sketches and got the same calibration error problem with negative adjustment values.

Brendan.


----------



## MaxN68

The problem of the reading temperature changing the Matho's code in ArdBir is known, it depends on a parameter read from the eeprom and in general the values ​​stored in the EEPROM of the two systems use different schemes. 
That is why you should always configure the entire system before using ArdBir​​. 

Regarding the error with negative values​​, I will try to resolve as soon as possible, as well as put online the entire archive to a new Dropbox (I'm reorganizing my files)


----------



## lael

You need to configure the entire unit. Its pulling values from eeprom that are not relevant. I had the same thing and then, You know, read the instructions


----------



## bcavan

lael said:


> You need to configure the entire unit. Its pulling values from eeprom that are not relevant. I had the same thing and then, You know, read the instructions


Yeah, I thought it was an EEPROM issue but I initialised it as per the instruction manual, the negative temp calibration still throws the temp reading off by 26 degrees or so.


----------



## lael

Oh interesting. Looks like Max will be onto it. Great work BTW!


----------



## rafinus

Thats what happen...and I configure the entire unit parameters...




bcavan said:


> Hi Max,
> 
> I just discovered a bug in the temperature calibration that might be relevant.
> When I uploaded the latest ArdBir sketch 2_6_70b7 (previously used Mathos code) I noticed that my temperature probe was incorrectly measuring 47 degrees Celsius, but when I load the mathos original sketch it correctly reads 21 degrees celsius.
> When I checked the calibration temperature in the PID config menu I noticed that the value was set to -0.1 degrees, when I tried to compensate for the higher value the maximum adjustment that I could enter was -5.0 degrees and this resulted in the display showing 42 degrees celsius (again incorrect).
> When I changed the calibration value back to 0 (or any positive value), the display showed a correct temperature of 21 degrees celsius.
> It looks like any negative temperature adjustment causes the temperature to read incorrectly.
> I tried several other earlier sketches and got the same calibration error problem with negative adjustment values.
> 
> Brendan.


----------



## MaxN68

I have search and probably found the bug.
In the next days verify the solution and upgrade the file in the new dopbox space with all Portoguese language also


----------



## lael

Ok - so the new circuit board is designed and pending some final decisions I'm about to send it off for fab prototyping. 

There is one thing that I'm still a little perplexed by and would love clarification if anyone knows - what is the JU1 jumper for on the original design? 

Cheers!


----------



## rafinus

Thanks a lot...



MaxN68 said:


> I have search and probably found the bug.
> In the next days verify the solution and upgrade the file in the new dopbox space with all Portoguese language also


----------



## djar007

lael said:


> Ok - so the new circuit board is designed and pending some final decisions I'm about to send it off for fab prototyping.
> 
> There is one thing that I'm still a little perplexed by and would love clarification if anyone knows - what is the JU1 jumper for on the original design?
> 
> Cheers!


Matho mentions the reson for it in early in te thread. I will find the quote for it but it may take a reread.Not an issue in the standard board.


----------



## MastersBrewery

JU1 was part of the heater circuit shown in schematic here and rev 2 here to me looks like changing sides of the board and or circuit collision, but I'm scarey babe in the woods when it comes to this stuff. Will continue to look though.

MB


----------



## lael

yeah, but vias (the yellow dots on the board) have been used in other areas for the same thing, so it isn't clear to me why a jumper would be used in that spot


----------



## MaxN68

New link
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/96o6i39o50llama/AAD3cgNyiUxKXF73_qjhm_uia?dl=0


----------



## Eagleburger

thanks


----------



## Keynes

Hey guys,

I am looking to have some PCB boards manufactured at http://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php?r=pcb using the Gerber files Matho provided earlier in the thread (thank you!). 

I am a newbie when it comes to ordering PCB's, so I was wondering if anyone could help me out with the PCB options offered through the seeedstudio fusion service. Particularly, what PCB size should I order for compatibility with the arduino unit? (I presume the Gerber files do not specify the physical size of the PCB?)

Cheers!


----------



## MaxN68

*Upgrade and Dropbox online*

Fixed bug calibration temperature 
Added language POR 16x2 
Correct language POR 20x4


----------



## SkyNaras

Thank you very much 
Which version you should use work?


----------



## MaxN68

2.6.70b10


----------



## tateg

Is there anyway to comment out the Iodine test ?
I would prefere to move strait to the mash out stage
cheers
tate


----------



## MaxN68

Set the Iodine Time = 1.
ArdBir wait 1 minute to go to the next step


----------



## tateg

thanks max
is this the line to change ?
byte IodineTime=EEPROM.read(25);

to

byte IodineTime=1;

thanks


----------



## MaxN68

No!!!
Set in configuration unit


----------



## tateg

Thanks Max
I don't recall seeing it in the settings, I will upgrade the unit tonight and have a look

I am also going to play with the P.I.D settings also.
planning on starting with Ki and Kd set to 0,
and help on what I should start Kp on ?


----------



## MaxN68

I explained in the manual an empirical way to set the PID. 


Note: that fine tuning of the PID parameter is out of the scope of this user manual and many factors related to the
brewing system can influence the optimal setting.
For a more detailed explanation of PID control algorithm please refer to Wikipedia


A simple method to get an easy calibration of the PID algorithm suggests to set to 0 the value Ki and Kd and try to fine
tune only the Kp that allows the PID to get as close as possible to set point trying to minimize the difference between
actual temperature and set point.
Subsequently it is possible to tune the kI and kD considering that:
• In case the measured temperature overshot the set point reduce kP and Increase kD
• In case to much time is needed to get the controller to the set point increase kI
• In case of a permanent error below the set point increase kI


Since version 6.2.65 kI has been re-proportioned and is now worth 0.25 compared to the value of the previous versions, this is because I noticed an overly aggressive attitude of this parameter to changes in a single unit. 

As already explained the other changes from previous versions are: 


*MANUAL MODE*: You can switch the timer in a countdown acting simultaneously on buttons START + ENTER and setting the time with the UP and DOWN buttons. Repressing START + ENTER to activate the countdown 

*SET PID*: was placed the duration of the sampling cycle to 3500ms and rescaled the value of kI (0.25) in order to have a more precise control of this constant. 
During configuration must be rescaled by multiplying the old value by 4. 

*SET UNIT*: two configurations have been added that allow you to check the status of Remove Malt and Iodine Test. 
- *Remove Malt*: you can set the temperature control (ON/OFF) only to systems with internal temperature sensor 
- *Iodine Test*: You can set the maximum execution time of the extra time (max 90 min) after which the system automatically advances to the next step; it is always possible to manually move forward step. 
Setting the time to 0 min (OFF) user intervention is required for the advancement of the step.

*CAUTION: For proper operation, proceed to configure the unit in its entirety before you perform any of the brewing cycle.*



Then I promise you that as soon as I get time I will update the manual


----------



## tateg

Thanks max again 
Also what is the 
PID pipe option for ?


----------



## lael

Thats for if you want the PID to remain on after the controller tells you to remove the malt pipe. Eg: maintain mash out temp. A re-name to Maintain MashOut might be more intuitive? other suggestions for a better name?


----------



## tateg

Yep that would make more sense, I take it active is on and passive is off ? 
Thanks lael


----------



## MaxN68

The name can be up to 12 characters total.

PID Rem.Malt OFF


----------



## Cavemanbrew

Keynes said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I am looking to have some PCB boards manufactured at http://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php?r=pcb using the Gerber files Matho provided earlier in the thread (thank you!).
> 
> I am a newbie when it comes to ordering PCB's, so I was wondering if anyone could help me out with the PCB options offered through the seeedstudio fusion service. Particularly, what PCB size should I order for compatibility with the arduino unit? (I presume the Gerber files do not specify the physical size of the PCB?)
> 
> Cheers!


OSH Park ~ Welcome
https://oshpark.com/
This is a community printed circuit board (PCB) order. We take designs from lots of people, put them all together on a panel and then order the panel from a fab.

I've had several diffrent boards made, very nice outcome


----------



## Edak

I can vouch that osh park is really good quality and it doesn't take to long either.


----------



## MastersBrewery

For those considering a run of these boards in the comming weeks, it may be prudent to wait to see when/ if Lael will be releasing the file for his updated version of the board. As most of you know Lael has put a lot of his own time and effort into supplying the current version 2 of this board. He has over the last few months worked very hard to make some design changes to make it even better and easier/ more compatible. I am unsure if he'll call it Version 3 but it is an upgrade, and as I understand it about to undergo rigorous testing and maybe further development.The latest updates are here
I have to say it's great to see people willing to put in the effort to advance what started as a great project and has now gone world wide, a fantastic salute to matho's original work.


----------



## jwollmer

I finally completed my build and have installed the ArdBir program. All is working well with the exception of the boil phase in atuo mode. In manual mode I ge a strong boil and reach a max temp of 209.8F. In auto mode if I set the boil temp to 210F it never reaches it so the boil timer does not start.Max temp again is 209.8F. If I set the boil temp to 209F the PID will cycle from 208.2, 208.4, 208.8, and back to 208.2. and 209 is never reached so boil timer doesn´t start. 

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks


----------



## djar007

Have you had a play with the pid settings. Maybe try ramping it a little harder to get it over the line. And then adjust back.

Edit:you can set it low and get the timer started and use the arrow up button to raise temp high so the element is on full power. Sometimes on a colder day I set to 105c so I get a good strong boil and the controller doesn't try to pulse on and off . I start my boil at 100c and that works for me at my altitude etc.


----------



## MaxN68

If your temperature is ever under the setpoint, you can try to increase the kI value on PID.


----------



## jwollmer

I have to admit the PID tuning is still a mystery to me. Is there a guideline other than what is in the manual or a tutorial people have found useful. 

Another thing I noticed is you can only set the PUMP STOP to your BOILING point setting not above. So even though I have DURING BOIL set ON as soon as that BOILING point is met you will be at PUMP STOP temp and the pump will shut off. I have a chugger that can go above boil temp, and would like to circulate once and a while to make sure wort in pump is boiled. I have not had a chance to get into the boil phase due to reasons above, so maybe the DURING BOIL setting over rides the PUMP STOP but I think that would defeat the purpose. I would have expected to be able to set the PUMP STOP above the BOILING point. Am I miss understanding something?

Thanks and I cant wait for my first brew next weekend!


----------



## claudiobr74

djar007 said:


> Have you had a play with the pid settings. Maybe try ramping it a little harder to get it over the line. And then adjust back.
> Edit:you can set it low and get the timer started and use the arrow up button to raise temp high so the element is on full power. Sometimes on a colder day I set to 105c so I get a good strong boil and the controller doesn't try to pulse on and off . I start my boil at 100c and that works for me at my altitude etc.


 I have the same problem with the temperature and timer start. The problem is: when the timer starts, I can only raise the PMW not the temperature. Do you know what is wrong?


----------



## djar007

It is late. I am about to board a plane . lots of hours on the Qantas Club. But here goes. 
Max is the guy when it comes to advice on getting it working. If he suggests playing with the I part of the pid then try that. The pump in the braumeiser application is usually used to pump the wort through the grain through the mash cycle. Most remove the mash cylinder after mash out and sparging is completed . so the pump is not needed.AA good rolling boil will stir the liquid enough to mix it and provide an even temp. But back to the pid. Google pid and what it does. And read Mathos explanation of it. Then look at maxs changes and recommendations. Neither of which I can find or link to right now. But it's where the problem lies.

Edit : Mathos explanation in the original guide.Notes on setting the PID the PID output range from 0 to 100, zero being off and 100 being on all the time. The P part of the PID stands for proportional which means it affects the output proportional to the error between the setpoint and actual temperature. So if the Kp gain is 50 the p output will be 100 until the error drops below 2 then it will drop down to 0 when there in no error, with P output only there will always be a small error and it will never get to the setpoint unless the gain is set so high that it produces over shoot. The I part of the PID stands for integral, it is used to remove a constant error that is present with P output, the problem with I is it can wind up and cause over shoot. The D part of the PID stands for derivative, it is used to hold back the I if there is a great rate of change, with such slow rate of change when heating water the D doesn't do very much. The units PID has a sample time of 5 second which means that every 5 seconds the PID is fed the error and does its calculations. The unit also has its output set to on if the temperature error is greater than 5 deg if the error is less the PID is turned on and takes over the control of the output. Suggested settings for a volume of 23l with a 2400w heating element Kp = 50 Ki = 1 Kd = 10 if you get overshoot try and reduce the Kp a bit and increase Kd, if you get a constant error below the setpoint or the ramp to the setpoint is very slow increase Ki a little bit too much Ki will cause over shoot.


----------



## djar007

The first menu section is related to PID parameter tuning. Through this menu the relevant constant that influences the PID controlling algorithm and so the heating element control is set. It is also possible to configure output power of the heating element during the boil phase and temperature probe calibration. The details: Constant P Constant I Constant D Window ms PWM % Calibration-100 100-100 100-100 100 1000-7500 0-100-5,00° 5,00° UP Proportional part of the PID control algorithm. Integral part of the PID control algorithm. Derivative part of the PID control algorithm. PID control time window in millisecond. Heating power percentage applied to heating element during boil. Temperature probe offset calibration (0,10° step) parameter increase DOWN START ENTER parameter decrease----Confirm selection UP+DOWNExit from PID menu Note: that fine tuning of the PID parameter is out of the scope of this user manual and many factors related to the brewing system can influence the optimal setting. For a more detailed explanation http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller of PID control algorithm please refer to Wikipedia A simple method to get an easy calibration of the PID algorithm suggests to set to 0 the value Ki and Kd and try to fine tune only the Kp that allows the PID to get as close as possible to set point trying to minimize the difference between actual temperature and set point. Subsequently it is possible to tune the kI and kD considering that: •In case the measured temperature overshot the set point reduce Kp and Increase kD •In case to much time is needed to get the controller to the set point increase kI •In case of a permanent error below the set point increase kI

Wdit: this is from the ardbir manual. Best I can do on my phone. Boarding now.


----------



## MaxN68

I'm working on an upgrade of ArdBir.

We added some parameters in the system for greater customization without having to use a computer.
We are finishing the testing phase on the Italian version (16x2 and 20x4).

As soon as we finished testing the full functionality of the new parameters will provide the release of various localizations linguistic trusting your help to correct errors graphics and translation.

PID MENU
- Added Heat GAS(PWM) / Electric (PID + PWM) 
- Added Control hysteresis for GAS use

UNIT MENU
- Added Control for Pump ON-OFF before the MashIn
- Added Control Pause Add Pipe
- Added Control Pause Remove Pipe
- Added Control Pause Iodine Test


On the Sketch we have this NEW setting system:


// ==============================================
// ATTENTION!!!!!
// YOU MUST SET ONLY THIS SECTION
// ==============================================

//SET PCB
// 1 Brauduino Original (Matho's PCB)
// 2 Brauduino by DanielXan
// 3 ArdBir by DanielXan
#define PCBType 3

// SET LCD and Language
// LCD 16 or 20
#define LCDType 20

// LANGUAGE
// 1 English
// 2 Italian
// 3 Spanish
// 4 Portuguese
#define LCDLanguage 2

// ==============================================
// END OF SETTING SECTION
// ==============================================

With the next update will make possible the setting free of the maximum temperature of the pump, making it free from the temperature of boil


----------



## MaxN68

claudiobr74 said:


> I have the same problem with the temperature and timer start. The problem is: when the timer starts, I can only raise the PMW not the temperature. Do you know what is wrong?


You can vary the temperature of boiling BEFORE you reach a state of boil AFTER act on the PWM just to maintain that state.
This is because once you reach the state of BOIL we only keep it in a more or less vigorous

If you set a high PWM, you'll see that the temperature will go beyond that set for the beginning of the boil.
If the PWM is too low, the temperature will drop below the established and then the PID will return to being active


While you have the PID active you can always change the temperature set point


----------



## jwollmer

Thanks for the responses, I am traveling so will give it a try this weekend.


----------



## claudiobr74

Hi Max,

Do you believe that would be to hard to adapt or create a firmware to use a Lcd TFT of 3.2"?

Cheers


----------



## claudiobr74

MaxN68 said:


> I'm working on an upgrade of ArdBir.
> 
> We added some parameters in the system for greater customization without having to use a computer.
> We are finishing the testing phase on the Italian version (16x2 and 20x4).
> 
> As soon as we finished testing the full functionality of the new parameters will provide the release of various localizations linguistic trusting your help to correct errors graphics and translation.
> 
> PID MENU
> - Added Heat GAS(PWM) / Electric (PID + PWM)
> - Added Control hysteresis for GAS use
> 
> UNIT MENU
> - Added Control for Pump ON-OFF before the MashIn
> - Added Control Pause Add Pipe
> - Added Control Pause Remove Pipe
> - Added Control Pause Iodine Test
> 
> 
> On the Sketch we have this NEW setting system:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> // ==============================================
> // ATTENTION!!!!!
> // YOU MUST SET ONLY THIS SECTION
> // ==============================================
> 
> //SET PCB
> // 1 Brauduino Original (Matho's PCB)
> // 2 Brauduino by DanielXan
> // 3 ArdBir by DanielXan
> #define PCBType 3
> 
> // SET LCD and Language
> // LCD 16 or 20
> #define LCDType 20
> 
> // LANGUAGE
> // 1 English
> // 2 Italian
> // 3 Spanish
> // 4 Portuguese
> #define LCDLanguage 2
> 
> // ==============================================
> // END OF SETTING SECTION
> // ==============================================
> 
> With the next update will make possible the setting free of the maximum temperature of the pump, making it free from the temperature of boil


 I'm ready to translate to portuguese!


----------



## lael

Max, the new kit I'm putting together uses a MEGA, so will have a bunch of space available - so feel free to go nuts in the next version. 

Might be worth doing a feature freeze on the UNO version and moving development across to the MEGA so the space restrictions aren't an issue anymore.


----------



## Robbo2234

Just a suggestion any chance of getting a hop dropping thing added I have hardly any time to brew these days and desperate for some all grain!


----------



## xredwood

I am building a new controller box so I have room to switch my grain mill, whirlpool pump, etc on and since I had some spare ssrs I want to run my pump for my brau clone through an ssr partly to stop my screen scrambling issue (it's a 240v pump). 

How do I wire it? My plan was to attach the negative from my 12V power supply directly to the ssr then switch the positive through the pcb as you would for a 12v pump to the other terminal of the ssr. Is this the best way to do it?


----------



## MastersBrewery

xredwood, thats sort of how I did it, works for me mate.


----------



## lael

The SSR is essentially a switch, just like the relay on the board. Just re-read your post. Yes, sounds right. Only switch one side of the 12v through on board relay, and then same for ssr for 240v pump.


----------



## MaxN68

ArdBir team wants to make you a nice Christmas gift. 
Here is the link of the version already announced. 
It's a beta version but I hope will please you the same and you can help us to make it perfect.

*Attention, the proper use of the new firmware must be performed to configure the parameters in the various menus*

http://goo.gl/pCcmIF


----------



## djar007

Cheers Max.Will flash it in the morning and hopefully brewing in a day or so. Looking forward to it.


----------



## MaxN68

*Attention, the proper use of the new firmware must be performed to configure the parameters in the various menus*


----------



## djar007

Do you mean setting sheild and screen etc. Or initialise after setup?


----------



## neo__04

Thanks Max, I will be doing 2 brews in the next 2 days, so i will upload this first and give it a run


----------



## MaxN68

You must set pcb, language and display at the top of code.
The others configurations are in the menus after run


----------



## lael

Hi Max, 

What are the new changes?


----------



## MaxN68

lael said:


> Hi Max,
> 
> What are the new changes?


http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/59563-mathos-controller/?p=1240391


----------



## CapnK

Arrrgh!! 

Binary sketch size: 31,982 bytes (of a 30,720 byte maximum)

Finally got my hardware build almost done, then went to upload the ArdBir code on my older Arduino Duemilanova (ATMega328) but it appears that model uses 2Kb for the bootloader...

Tried 2.6.70b10 and 2.7.2b9

Any tips on trimming down some code, or older version that take up a little less space...


----------



## lael

I wouldn't bother. Just buy a mega / uno


----------



## MastersBrewery

Use linux to compile and upload, for some reason byte size is smaller.


----------



## lael

MastersBrewery said:


> Use linux to compile and upload, for some reason byte size is smaller.


Epic suggestion to get a smaller size on an arduino


----------



## CapnK

lael said:


> Epic suggestion to get a smaller size on an arduino


I look after a few Linux servers at work, so I could have gone there.

But $40 to Little Bird for an UNO was a bit easier right now. 
So many other software projects, so little time.


----------



## neo__04

You should be able to get a uno for about $12. Thats what i paid for my last one


----------



## MaxN68

I've buy 2 Arduino Uno for € 9.80


----------



## lael

MaxN68 said:


> I've buy 2 Arduino Uno for € 9.80


Wow! That is nuts, who is your supplier!?


----------



## Marvin Lu

*Thanks Matho and everyone's sharing informations,*
*I'm just a beginner trying to build a Matho's brauduino system by myself, and having some questions.*
*Where can I get the Bonjuino board or can I replace to Arduino UNO or others Arduino board whch can match Matho's sharing program?*
*Could anyone comment on where I may source a Braumeister 27W pump from? or suggested pump brand.*
*Any assistance would be appreciated!!*

*Thank you!*


*Regards*
*Marvin Lu*


----------



## stux

Wonder who will be the first to adapt this to grain father? Is there an available line to switch between the 500/2000 watt element?


----------



## Marvin Lu

I mean where are can I buy a Brauduino controller system?


----------



## MaxN68

ArdBir is ready to work with a recirculating system like a Grainfather.


----------



## stux

Marvin Lu said:


> I mean where are can I buy a Brauduino controller system?


Marvin, I have a Braudino V2 controller kit for sale, 45AUD + shipping. This is from Lael's original batch.

This the braudino shield PCB, PCB Components and 2 line LCD. You need to supply the Arduino, SSRs, case etc.

Full instructions and relevant links:
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-the-brauduino-matho’s-controller-buy-thread/page-19#entry1172975

PM me if you're interested.

Sorry, I think its sold


----------



## MastersBrewery

Stux said:


> Wonder who will be the first to adapt this to grain father? Is there an available line to switch between the 500/2000 watt element?


I have one of the original boards running my Braumonster, and I have one of Lael's full kits on order. If I trip over a little more cash, it's something I've thought about doing, can't have a snazzy bit of kit like that just sitting around gathering dust. switching the elements would be done prior to the ssr, not hard to sort out.


----------



## MaxN68

It's easy:
PCB --> SSR --> SWITCH --> Element A-B


----------



## MastersBrewery

I prefer switching LV

SSR--> ELEMENT A
PCB--> SWITCH--<
SSR-->ELEMENT B


----------



## stux

Thinking about it more, with the pid, you'd just ignore the 500w element. 

The only issue then is what type of temp sensor it used (my bet, the wrong type)

So you need to add another temp probe. Then you're done


----------



## lael

The new kit comes with the temp probe... so... not a hard thing to do... 10mm drill bit and happy as.


----------



## stux

lael said:


> The new kit comes with the temp probe... so... not a hard thing to do... 10mm drill bit and happy as.


Depending on how it's mounted in the grainfather, you might be able to just unscrew the existing one...


----------



## MaxN68

I have added 2 new parameter for setting pump: ON/OFF during Mash and ON/OFF during MashOut.
ArdBir is slowly turning into a universal controller, suited to handle many different situations and leaving full configurability in its entirety.
And all this in just 32K of code.

I'm testing that there are no major problems (I had to review the mapping of EEPROM), as soon as I'm sure that there are no problems there I am promulgating the link for more extensive testing


----------



## stux

So,

I was curious, and looked into the Spark Core Shield Shield for potential compatibility with the Braudiuno shield and ArdBir software...

http://docs.spark.io/shields/

The biggest issue I think is that the Shield Shield doesn't connect A3 (or A4 or A5)


// push buttons 
const char Button_up = A3; 
const char Button_dn = A2; 
const char Button_start = A1; 
const char Button_enter = A0;

A3 is used for the Up button.

Could A3 be connected up to 12?

Also, would need to verify that 5V is not going to go into the A pins... I haven't looked at the circuit diagram


----------



## MaxN68

ArdBir is full campatible whit Brauduino pcb.
Inside the code are the configuration for 3 PCB (Mathos PCB, DanielXan PCB and ArdBir PCB)


----------



## lael

Stux said:


> So,
> 
> I was curious, and looked into the Spark Core Shield Shield for potential compatibility with the Braudiuno shield and ArdBir software...
> 
> http://docs.spark.io/shields/
> 
> The biggest issue I think is that the Shield Shield doesn't connect A3 (or A4 or A5)
> 
> 
> // push buttons
> const char Button_up = A3;
> const char Button_dn = A2;
> const char Button_start = A1;
> const char Button_enter = A0;
> 
> A3 is used for the Up button.
> 
> Could A3 be connected up to 12?
> 
> Also, would need to verify that 5V is not going to go into the A pins... I haven't looked at the circuit diagram


Hey Stux,

The old shield won't work with a spark core. The new version in the kit will. One of the key reasons for changes.


----------



## enoch

Stux said:


> Wonder who will be the first to adapt this to grain father? Is there an available line to switch between the 500/2000 watt element?


Done it and it works a trick.
With pid no need to use the low power element.


----------



## lael

What voltage is the grainfather pump?


----------



## enoch

lael said:


> What voltage is the grainfather pump?


240v
It has a cable for he pump and one for the heater, both with iec ends (monitor or kettle style). The thermo well fits a Dallas 18b20 bought off eBay with a waterproof lead and stainless endy bit.


----------



## MastersBrewery

enoch said:


> stainless endy bit.


 that's tech talk at it's best pity you can only like a post once.


----------



## arzaman

Hi

If your are following our official ArdBir FB page 

(https://www.facebook.com/pages/Open-Ardbir/606829852720387)

you may know that we are working to re-engineer the board in order to have a stand alone all in one system with atmel atmega328 controller on board, USB-uart converter , LCD display on one side and all components and connectors on the other side

Here is how the board will looks like


And the good news is that PCB are finished and components sourced and in a short time we are ready for testing


Stay tuned
Davide


----------



## arzaman

The new ArdBir all in one board is almost finished and ready to test

Very compact and well engineered

Stay tuned
Davide


----------



## MaxN68

These are the news about my equipment.




Then there is news on small additions to the code ...


----------



## Guru72

Been using this on the grainfather for a few weeks now, just using the 2000w element but I am thinking of running both for quicker ramp ups. 
Just built a second one for my mate who just bought a grainfather.


----------



## lael

Very neat work! Well done! Love to see some pics of how you laid it all out for the GF. How did you mount it onto the unit?


----------



## arzaman

Guru72 said:


> Been using this on the grainfather for a few weeks now, just using the 2000w element but I am thinking of running both for quicker ramp ups.
> Just built a second one for my mate who just bought a grainfather.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1424335801.482064.jpg


Hi Guru72
Very nice integration! clean and effective , first time we see such an upgrade of a commercial product !

It seems you have used *Open AdBir software and HW* (and we are very proud of this.. :beerbang: ) can you please share what SW version are you using and if you did any modification/adaptation either on SW or HW ?

Any detail is appreciated

BR
Davide – Ardbir team


----------



## Pz212

hi. ive been looking at this thread for a while. its quite amazing. 

ive boult a mockup on my breadboard for testing purposes. the screen is booting up and reading the temperature.

but the buttons are not reacting. i have redone the wiring probably over 10 times and even tried to touch the wire directly to the resistor but no reaction. 

im using the ArdBir_2_6_63b10 firmware version and tried both the Pcb_ArdBir_DanielXan pcb and the Pcb_11s but no luck so far. any ideas to what may be the problem ? 

grateful for any help

EDIT: tried changing the atmega chip in my uno for a newone but still nothing


----------



## MaxN68

In the development of the code and in the test phase using the PCB ArdBir by DanielXan and the PCB 11s, both with ArduinoUno and ArduinoMega 2560. The only plausible error in this behavior is the correct configuration of the right PCB for compilation and transfer of Arduino .


----------



## Pz212

i used this drawing for the hookup on the breadboard, together with the settings mentioned in my past post . 

if there is any relevance im using a 20x4 display


----------



## Pz212

and here is a photo of the bradboard as it sits now


----------



## Pz212

ok. 
ehm sometimes i belive i suffer from very advanced retardation......
i forgot the cables from ground..... my bad..

admin feel fre to delete my posts......


----------



## Guru72

arzaman said:


> Hi Guru72
> Very nice integration! clean and effective , first time we see such an upgrade of a commercial product !
> 
> It seems you have used *Open AdBir software and HW* (and we are very proud of this.. :beerbang: ) can you please share what SW version are you using and if you did any modification/adaptation either on SW or HW ?
> 
> Any detail is appreciated
> 
> BR
> Davide – Ardbir team


Hi Davide,
Im using SW version ArdBir_2_6_70b10. My HW is Brauduino Original PCB, 20x4 screen and a second SSR for the Pump.
I have done a few little mods.
I added a WhirlFloc tablet reminder at 14.5 min not to interfere with a 15min hop addition and
Switched the heating element on (override PID) until its reached boil temp because I found the PID would not reach boil temp without high settings compared to setting for mash temps. Also gets to boil quicker. Once it reaches boil temp it switches to the PWM mode.

In stage loop I added

if ((x-1)==7 && IodineTest==false)Iodine_Test();




if((x-1)==8 && TimeLeft == 870){ //Time is minutes X 60 eg 15min is 15x60=900, set at 14.5 not to interfere with 15min hop additions
WhirlFloc();
Buzzer(3,1000);
}




if ((x-1)==8 && Temp_Now <= boilStageTemp) { //if temp isnt reached during boil

heat_on();

}

if ((x-1)==8 && tempBoilReached && Temp_Now >= boilStageTemp) { //if temp reached during boil

Set(boil_output,100,0,1,Timer,Verso);
Output = boil_output;


And in LCD20x4_ENG.h I added

void NoBoil(){
lcd.setCursor(1,2);
LCDSpace(9);
}

void WhirlFloc(){
lcd.setCursor(10,0);
lcd.print(F("Whirlfloc")); 
}

void HopAdd(byte HopAdd){
lcd.setCursor(10,0);

I haven't fully tested the Heat on, it works if you run it through the cycle but haven't tested if it works after being paused or on resume. Will do some more testing this weekend.

On the one I built for a mate ( the one in the photo) I change the name on the main screen to (he's name ) Hodgo"s Brewery with a beer mug symbol at the end.

The SW is great and am very happy with it.
One thing I did notice when using it is when its in PWM mode in the boil stage, If you pause it and then un-pause it the bottom line with the button labels is blank.

Thanks Greg.


----------



## MaxN68

I have closed 5 days ago the new version (2.8.2) whit some news.
I have modified also heating for boil (100% to boil temp).


----------



## Guru72

MaxN68 said:


> I have closed 5 days ago the new version (2.8.2) whit some news.
> I have modified also heating for boil (100% to boil temp).


Thanks, I will check it out.


----------



## Guru72

MaxN68 said:


> I have closed 5 days ago the new version (2.8.2) whit some news.
> I have modified also heating for boil (100% to boil temp).


Hi, Do you have a link to this version
Thanks Greg


----------



## MaxN68

We are testing all.


----------



## arzaman

Hi Greg
Thank you for clarifications, as Max said the PID behavior from mash out to boil has been already corrected (disabled) in order to speed up the process in rel 2.8 under test now
There are also some nice new features ..stay tuned!

The suggestion for a reminder for the Irish moss addition is nice we keep in mind for next release

Just a request if you modify the code remember that everything is under GNU license..and a part from this keeping the original ArdBir logo is appreciated from all the team putting lot of effort supporting the project

Ciao
Davide


----------



## arzaman

The new all in one board prototypes are ready for testing
They looks very well, compact end well engineered, just a couple of minor modifications are needed for the final version 

Test will proceed with new ArdBir sw version 2.8 with lot of news!


----------



## arzaman

The new all in one board prototypes are ready for testing
They looks very well, compact end well engineered, just a couple of minor modifications are needed for the final version 

Test will proceed with new ArdBir sw version 2.8 with lot of news!


----------



## MitchD

I have built my own controller from scratch and almost everything is working. The temp sensor was reading ~55c. I've looked at everything including buying a replacement ds18b20. I shortened the lead on the replacement and now i'm getting ~50. Closer but still about 20c higher than what it should be. Anybody seen this before?


----------



## MaxN68

Have you set the parameters in menu configurations?


----------



## MitchD

As in c or f? Yes it is set to c. I did set it to f to see what happened and it gave me 103f which is 39c.


----------



## MaxN68

Calibration?


----------



## djar007

Yeah calibrate it mate.


----------



## MitchD

Point me in the right direction and I'll get it done.


----------



## MaxN68

Fw version? Pcb vetsion? Compiling setting? Menu setting?


----------



## MitchD

Got it sorted. Thanks


----------



## Judanero

What was it?


----------



## MitchD

A combination of midnight and calibration settings. I did a search of this thread and found the answer


----------



## MaxN68

released versions are many, some distort the configuration parameters of the previous versions. This generates some strange behavior at power but everything is resolved by registering again the various parameters in the EEPROM to the appropriate address.


----------



## CapnK

Whilst waiting for Lael's master piece, I've been building one of the previous kits.

It worked ok running off the USB port, so after getting my local electrician to give it a look over I hooked it up to the 240v

Now on 240v the buzzer seems to come on, and stay on the whole time.
ArdBir 2.7.2b9, and I set the PCBtype and LCDtype settings

PCBType = 1, which I believe is correct for the Braumiser 2.1 PCB

Thoughts?


----------



## neo__04

I had the exact same problem, couldnt fix it, ended up changing the code to have the buzzer on a different pin, then wiring the buzzer direct to that pin.

That was the only way i could fix it


----------



## MastersBrewery

show us your soldering CapnK


----------



## MaxN68

This is the PINOUT of Mathos PCB




Code:


// sensor and lcd
OneWire ds(11);
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);

// push buttons
const char Button_up    = A3;
const char Button_dn    = A2;
const char Button_start = A1;
const char Button_enter = A0;

// outputs
const byte Pump = 8;
const byte Buzz = 10;
const byte Heat = 9;


----------



## djar007

Are you sure that the pcb you chose is the correct one?


----------



## CapnK

Djar, it's the board I bought off you. The buzzer seemed to work fine off usb power.


----------



## arzaman

The test of the all in one board controller are fine and I can assure that the board is a little masterpiece


We are now testing the ArdBir 2.8 release that will be released soon

Completed also the wiring and the front panel.. Here is how it looks like


----------



## arzaman

Few other pictures of the all in one board assembly


----------



## djar007

Can you send me link to the firmware capnk. I will test it today.


----------



## Eagleburger

arzaman said:


> The test of the all in one board controller are fine and I can assure that the board is a little masterpiece
> 
> 
> We are now testing the ArdBir 2.8 release that will be released soon
> 
> Completed also the wiring and the front panel.. Here is how it looks like


Impressive rig.


----------



## arzaman

djar007 said:


> Can you send me link to the firmware capnk. I will test it today.


All details on our FB page

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Open-Ardbir/606829852720387


----------



## djar007

I dont see 2.7.2b9 in the dropbox folder. 
latest I see is 2.6.65a1.
Where is the link to the latest please Arzaman?


----------



## MaxN68

The latest is 2.8.2b12 will be released next week if the tests are ok. We have modified and added much settings and the eeprom map is not compatible with the old release.


----------



## Tumancheg

Hello!
I translate the program into Russian. Translation feature is that you need a screen LCD, which supports Cyrillic and need another library screen. In case of replacement of Russian letters on the size increased sketch. I am disabled and ArdBir1.h Presentazione.h. All Russian words within the dimensions Uno 32kb memory can not be translated. Only if you use Arduino Mega 256. I also with reference to the translation http://goo.gl/kgevbI


----------



## MaxN68

Thanks for the work done, we had already a translation for the 20x4 version of a recent release.
Now with version 2.8.2 will be updated all languages.
We are finishing the tests and the writing of the first draft of the manual.

A tip for everyone: using the new IDE 1.6 is able to optimize the code gaining on average 1K


----------



## CapnK

Neo__04 said:


> I had the exact same problem, couldnt fix it, ended up changing the code to have the buzzer on a different pin, then wiring the buzzer direct to that pin.
> 
> That was the only way i could fix it


This is what I did I the end too, after checking that the arduino had enough current to drive the buzzer.

Couldn't see anything obviously wrong with djar007's soldering, so I routed around the problem 

Next job, finish the plumbing.


----------



## arzaman

*1st ArdBir Contest !!*​
*Post on our Facebook page your BIAB system ArdBir powered and WIN a assembled all in one boar*d

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Open-Ardbir/606829852720387

*Basic rules*

write on the post “ArdBir contest”
describe briefly your set up (SW and HW version, litre, recirculation, heating, pump..)
insert one ore more picture showing ArdBir integration and any relevant technical details

The winner will be selected based on “like” on the post and ArdBir Team evaluation (criteria: most professional, innovative, original, well designed..)

Contest duration 2 weeks
people who has already posted their rig should resubmit !

Enjoy
Davide - ArdBir Team


----------



## arzaman

Braking news !!

ArdBir software release 2.8.3 is ready for download !!

http://goo.gl/SXVZxn

It's the release candidate and we need your test and feedback

Please remember that after uploading the sketch you need to set all parameters!

Enjoy
Ardbir team


----------



## MaxN68

Release Candidate: *2.8.3RC *updated


----------



## arzaman

Opne ArdBir and the single vessel brewing system have been selected for Arduino Day 2015 event

very proud of this and may thanks to all people in this forum that contributed to this project






you can follow the event in live streaming and on twitter #Ardbir #ArduinoD15

https://youtu.be/sGCiiL0JQ5s

stay tuned!
Davide


----------



## copytko

Hi there,

for some time I had been working do add some features to original Brauduino modded by Mike Wilson, since ArdBir has many features that I personally do not need, while lacks some important ones to me.

I have managed to control the brewing process using Arduino and a PC interface simultaneously, like in SCADA systems. Also, the system is able to generate graphs and store raw Arduino data (when pump was turned on or off, temperature reads, etc.) Currently I am testing database and code on the server side, which is running on ScadaBr system on Apache.

My modification is compatible with any ArdBir shield and requires an USB connection to a PC (I am thinking about using WiFi through ESP8266, though).

Below you can find a quick demo movie as proof-of-concept.

https://youtu.be/KE3j6BpJNNE

Also I am thinking about an application uploading BeerXML recipe data from BeerSmith directly to Brauduino (I already have a prototype app).

What do you guys think about this?


----------



## MaxN68

The latest release have PID diagram for setting. This feature derived from official PID front end and use an additional software (processing) and one library. 
This solution is for test and work only in manual mode after disabled auto mode from sketch by #define.
Whit an Arduino Mega it's possible work with complete code after modify the sketch


----------



## copytko

Nice! Good to know, what to expect from ArdBir in the future.

My SCADA allows full modifications of all parameters "on the go" in all modes, since Arduino only updates registers later sent to the server.

The app I am doing to transfer BeerXML file is also capable of making graphs and also uses Processing (what a coincidence) as a main and only software.

Unfortunately, I cannot make SCADA parse an XML file, which would cut on software, since all I need is already there in case of controlling the whole process. My code is about 22 kB, since I started with "bare" Baruduino code, so I can implement some more things like SD card support (already bought a part for testing).


----------



## MastersBrewery

copytko said:


> Nice! Good to know, what to expect from ArdBir in the future.
> 
> My SCADA allows full modifications of all parameters "on the go" in all modes, since Arduino only updates registers later sent to the server.
> 
> The app I am doing to transfer BeerXML file is also capable of making graphs and also uses Processing (what a coincidence) as a main and only software.
> 
> Unfortunately, I cannot make SCADA parse an XML file, which would cut on software, since all I need is already there in case of controlling the whole process. My code is about 22 kB, since I started with "bare" Baruduino code, so I can implement some more things like SD card support (already bought a part for testing).


hey, love your work, and continuing Dev on this. Is this written for Linux, and if so would it run under Raspbian?
Do you have a blog detailing your work?Either way keep the updates coming sounds very exciting.
MB


----------



## copytko

Hello MastersBrewery, thanks for your kind words!

SCADA is running on ScadaBr (a branch of Mango M2M - Apache Tomcat based system), which is a servlet, so is based on Java, what gives a theoretical possibility of installing it on any Linux, Windows or Mac OS supporting Java. Though, I have not looked for it now - mine runs on Windows 7, but connecting it with a remote Raspberry Pi is tempting. 

Also, my BeerXML parser is written in Processing, which is Java-based, what gives me opportunity to compile it for Linux, Windows, Mac OS and even Android.

I do not have a blog, you are the first person to ask for that, but if there would be a greater number of audience I might think of something like that.


----------



## arzaman

copytko said:


> Nice! Good to know, what to expect from ArdBir in the future.


In The ArdBir future there are lots of features, enhancements, ideas... That is for sure !

We run also a feature candidate poll few times ago in order to prioritize the development according to customer needs

Here is the result page

https://infogr.am/ardbir_features_roadmap_poll_results

As you can see what you are requesting and implementing is in the top list so we are on the same line!

As Max already wrote we reached the limit of the arduino uno board and a part from experimental integration with pid front end libraries just for test and debugging (not officially released) it's quite difficult to evolve current platform

We are thinking medium term for a new ArdBir platform with more juice and capable to integrate all the feature request

Stay tuned and off course in the meanwhile we follow closely your development!

Davide
ArdBir team


----------



## stevemc32

G'day ArdBir team.

Just loaded the latest version 2.8.3RC onto my controller and noticed an issue with the 16 x 2 English display. There is a problem with the PidSet function in LCD16x2_ENG.h which can be fixed by replacing it with a copy of the PidSet function from LCD16x2_ITA.h

Cheers.


----------



## enoch

There is an rc3 they posted on 27 March on FB which may have fixed it. It's a long time since they released it though would be good to know when it's likely to be finalised.
I have run the rc3 without major issues but without a forum for logging bugs etc it's not clear how to draw issued to the developers attention. Great work though so not not a whinge just would be nice to help.


----------



## enoch

Make that 29 March.


----------



## MaxN68

sorry but I have several connection problems and are often cut off from the computer world. We arrived at the RC6, as soon as I can this public version that is almost completely debugged.


----------



## enoch

That's great news. Thanks for your excellent work on this.
I've done a ghetto version of the controller on a proto shield which is running my Grainfather. Currently moving it to a nice waterproof box to keep the wet and electrical side suitably separated. 
Cheers,
Bill


----------



## stevemc32

Cheers,

I'll keep an eye out for the RC6.


----------



## MaxN68

Grainfather powered ArdBir. Great idea.


----------



## arzaman

enoch said:


> That's great news. Thanks for your excellent work on this.
> I've done a ghetto version of the controller on a proto shield which is running my Grainfather. Currently moving it to a nice waterproof box to keep the wet and electrical side suitably separated.
> Cheers,
> Bill


You definitely need to move to all in one board...very compact, professionally engineered and easy to fit in a box

D.


----------



## enoch

arzaman said:


> You definitely need to move to all in one board...very compact, professionally engineered and easy to fit in a box
> D.


It's dead simple to do on a proto shield. You can use a mega and not need to worry about code size too!


----------



## Ferg

Hi All,

Hopefully this is the correct place to post this question.

I got into the homebrew world through cider making which I do every year using the apples & pears from relations gardens, roadside fruit etc. I also love beer and decided that I want to get into brewing so am in the process of building a braumeister clone using the kit that Lael is organising in the bulk buys.

If you glance at the non-beer brewing section of this forum you will find that it is common for people to be unhappy with their cider because it is too dry and normally too acidic (the sugar masks the acid). All ciders naturally will finish around 1.000 sg unless some action is taken to prevent it; commercial ciders are generally around 1014 (even the ones which have dry on the label!).

Pasteurising of ciders is one of the more common practises worldwide, the other common routes are sterile filtration or chemicals both of which are not really suited to the homebrewer. The major drawback of pasteurising is that it is almost always overdone leaving the cider to have a cooked taste.

In comes the mathos controller. Do people think it would be difficult to add another function to the controller to calculate pasteurising units and give an audible alarm when they have been reached? Here are two links which detail exactly what is required:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/cider-workshop/3mM4sIEkVJk
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/cider-workshop/rJjxsXSzLl0/discussion

I think it would be an amazing feature to have. I am imagining you would have a second temperature probe measuring the temperature inside the bottle which would provide the feedback to the controller.

Cheers,

Fergal.


----------



## lael

Good idea. I've pasteurised cider with my machine a couple of times. Works well. Takes a few weeks for the cider to return to normal taste, but then is delicious. I haven't measured inside a bottle yet. There would be differences as one is under pressure (the cider) and the open bottle would not be. I've tended to do 78C for ten mins. Which should be quite overkill, but worked well for me.


----------



## MaxN68

You can use manual mode section setting Temperature and Timer.


----------



## Ferg

It will definately be used for pastuerising one way or another thats for sure. I was just wondering if the guys who were doing the programming thought it might be a useful thing to add to the current program? Using the equations for PU's in those links I suppose it would only be a matter of working out how long your system takes to reach 50 PU's and then following the exact same sequence each time. Thought it would be kind of cool to see the units couting up on the screen though!


----------



## MaxN68

It's me that I follow the programming and I can assure you that there is no longer a margin to implement anything right now


----------



## MastersBrewery

Margin to implement is purely down to code space on the arduino, I"m sure the ArdBir team have a whole list of add-ons they'd more than love to load up, but where it's at now, most users are using a standard Arduino. I know the controller build Lael has been scouring the world for, for parts to complete will be using the Arduino Mega, which has ample room to add further features. These could quite easily be added as modules to the current ArdBir release. Obviously The controller lends itself to more than just brewing, pastuerising and yogurt are two that quickly come to mind. I'm sure somewhere down the track, one of the many smart cookies using this controller in one of 7 or 8 countries around the world will decide to dedicate some code to it. Patience it will all happen.

Ed: Almost missed it 1500 posts, I need to find something else to do that's way too many ... maybe I should drink more.


----------



## enoch

MaxN68 said:


> Grainfather powered ArdBir. Great idea.


Finally have it in a suitable box courtesy of some dumpster diving. The danger sign was already on the box.
The pump and arduino are fed from one 240V circuit while the heater comes from another hence the four power leads on the bottom. Still need to hook it neatly onto the GF.
Any update on the new firmware?


----------



## MitchD

I have built my one controller based on the Daniel Xan schematic and everything has been working fine, except i have only used an 8v external power supply to power the unit. This has been fine as I'm not using a pump and 8v is enough to drive the SSR and led's. But I've just tried to add a 12v power supply connected through the VIN pin because I'm about to add recirculation, now my SSR is permanently on as well as the buzzer, screen is working fine.

I've been over my wiring and the available schematics and have found a bit of a problem, there seems to be multiple versions that have the diodes in a different direction.

My PCB is connected as per the Daniel Xan pcb with the cathode to the 12v line and anode to heater on


OpnArdBir-lc by Mitch Dalton, on Flickr

Also like this


Line diagram by Mitch Dalton, on Flickr

However i have found this on the Open Ardbir FB page with the diode reversed


danielxan 1 by Mitch Dalton, on Flickr

And lastly the schematic also shows this


Danielxan schematic by Mitch Dalton, on Flickr

These 4 images have all either come from the drop box files or the Open Ardbir FB page so I am taking them as legitimate it just puzzles me as to why there are differences and which drawing is correct?


----------



## zwitter

Hi MitchD
The original Matho board is none of those. If you browse the early sections of this? Thread there are links to the circuit diagram and the construction manual for the board. The 12 v goes to the arduino power in and drives a few other bits and the relay for the pump. If you put 12v into the wrong part you will blow it up.

If you can not find schematic PM me and I will send it to you
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MitchD

Thanks, but i have already built my controller to the schematic posted above, which is an updated version of Mathos. The problem I have is which drawing is correct. I think I've nailed part of the problem down to the PN2222a transistor being opposite to a P2N2222a.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Mitchd
Are you talking about D1 and D2?
They are LEDs they will only work one way round.

Mathos board had a diode across the coil of the relay to stop the back EMF blowing the transistor. Once again it can only work one way. The other the relay will not switch.

What, if any, board are you using?
What test equipment do you have? Multimeter?
What is your electronics knowledge level.
What spares do you have on hand.

With those answers I can suggest some tests to assist you.

I have blown up a few bits along the way fiddling with mine. 

James

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MitchD

Yep d1 and d2 but they are not LEDs, don't know where you got that from?
As stated above i have used the Daniel Xan schematic to build my own using a blank prototype shield. Also stated above I have it working but when I go from 8v-12v it starts to have some issues. 

Please re read my first post.

I am pretty sure the root of the problem is the transistors being backwards (my fault)

I am an electrician with experience with electronics, I am not worried about blowing things up but I really wanted to know why ardbir are posting multiple versions of the same product with mistakes.


----------



## zwitter

Hi MitchD
Ok re read the posts and used a proper computer instead of the tablet. They are diodes and they are probably intended to stop the lines from being dragged to level s that may blow the transistors. The Matho's board does not have them. Transistors backwards may not really explain why it works on 8v and not at 12?
I do not have the parts list for the Danny board. The BC337 in the other one are fairly standard. I think the One I have currently is using the 2n2222. Either works if used correctly but I guess you are not planning to invert the signals in the sketch either. You could put a resistor around 800 to 1000ohm in as the load for the two SSRs and measure the pin in manual mode and see if it changes. can also measure the pin on the arduino at same time. If you have Leds in the other "Htr" on and Pump On then can probably just watch those and disconnect the SSRs? The normal SSRs are AC switches not DC and will not switch 12 v dc for a pump? That is why Matho used a relay. With Relay you need protection diode across the coil and it also put 240v on the main PCB which can catch you out if not careful.
Like any problem make it a linear process. measure the arduino pin then the transistor output then the SSR etc.


----------



## MitchD

Thanks for your help. I have it all working now after completely rebuilding the shield because trying to remove 3 transistors wasn't going to happen, no matter how much solder sucking and goot wick.

Now that its sorted I've had a look/think and I think that my v1 board worked for heat only because the transistor stopped enough voltage through and the arduino board also played along to stop the ssr from being dragged low, when I added 12v there was just enough to drag the ssr down. I didn't look too hard into which component was doing me the favor. The transistors were PN2222a, not 2222a. Basically pins 1&3 are swapped, Matho posted about this around p45 and at 40c each they were quick to go.

The top 2 images I posted above are correct bottom 2 are wrong. Why the others exist/are in the open ardbir files is still a mystery and the reason the diode is there is exactly as you said above i just got tied up chasing one problem i seem to have found another.


----------



## dca

Sorry if this is available somewhere else, but I could not find it... Are 4x20 LCDs with the HD44780 controller supported. Just got it all wired before I realized the pinouts were mostly wrong (schematic v. LCD). My LCD display pin out is:

1: Vss/GND
2: Vdd
3: Vo (contrast)
4: RS
5: R/~W
6: EN
7-14: DB0-DB7
15: Vdd for LED b/l
16: Vss for LED b/l

Thanks!
Dave


----------



## dblunn

Yes, just change which include file for the screen is used in the build. If you don't it will still work but only the top two lines will be used.
Dave


----------



## dca

Thanks for the reply, Dave. I had that part covered (include file LCD selection). 

Can you or someone else send the pin descriptions? I still need to know which pin on the Arduino serves which function for the LCD. 

Some are obvious, but I am not sure about the data and R/W and EN lines. If I had the datasheet for the LCD it was designed around, I could tell from that as well.

Dave A.


----------



## MitchD

A quick search showed that the 2*20 and 4*20 have the same pinouts with 16 pins each. Look at the PCB diagram I posted above its the top image of the 4, it is correct BUT it is a mirror image so pin 1 of the screen goes to the first pin on the right and the rest will be in order working towards the left. This shield was designed to have a screen slot directly into it. Hope that helps


----------



## dblunn

Hi Dave, have a look at the code and you will find the constructor (remember that Arduino is basically C++) instantiates an instance of a LCD class (which is overloaded) with the pinouts you specify (see https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/LiquidCrystalConstructor). The particular setup is defined in the pcb.h include file. Sorry to be a bit dismissive but I think it will help to look at the source code and get a feel for how it all fits together. 
regards, Dave


----------



## dca

EDIT: I saw Dave's post after I posted below. So, that gets me closer. I will need to review ArdBir source code and see which syntax it uses in the LCD function call. Then, see what pin numbers are passed to the function, and relate them to the pin functions at the link you sent. 
Thanks
—-----------------
Pls forgive me, but I do not see the LCD pin functions, only the Arduino pins. 

I did check the BOM, and the HD44780 is the controller family supported. 

So, I need a link to an LCD data sheet that is known to work with the above schematic. That should solve my issue.

Thanks, 
Dave


----------



## MitchD

I'm on my phone but Google "arduino LCD pins" all LCD screens use the same pins and they are arranged in the same order on the PCB. But trust me if you connect the LCD back to front it won't kill it. That's how I worked it out.


----------



## dblunn

For instance for PCB_5.h we have 

OneWire ds(8); 

LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7); 
// push buttons
const char Button_enter = A2; 
const char Button_start = A3; 
const char Button_up = A4; 
const char Button_dn = A5; 
// outputs
const byte Pump = 9; 
const byte Buzz = 10; 
const byte Heat = 11; 


now in the Arduino site it says 
Syntax
LiquidCrystal(rs, enable, d4, d5, d6, d7) 
LiquidCrystal(rs, rw, enable, d4, d5, d6, d7) 
LiquidCrystal(rs, enable, d0, d1, d2, d3, d4, d5, d6, d7) 
LiquidCrystal(rs, rw, enable, d0, d1, d2, d3, d4, d5, d6, d7)
which lists the various overloaded functions and the first line give the particular instance which takes 6 values (ie 4 bit data and no R/W, because we don't give a toss about reading stuff back from the LCD). So in this case we have pin 2 is rs (register select), pin 3 is the enable, pin 4 to pin 7 is data 4 to 7.
Regards, Dave


----------



## dca

Thanks - I think that clears it up. So, most of my pins will need rewired. :-( Additionally, all pins are wired in, but not all used. Also good to know. --Dave A


----------



## luisdepaula2001

Hello everyone,

I'm finishing up my Brauduino controller and have a doubt.

I found 2 wiring diagrams in the forum; 1 from Matho and another one from lael for the latest kit and they have a difference in the pump wiring.

On Matho's version, the load is connected to the pump and the neutral to the PCB
On Lael's version, the load is connected to the PCB and the neutral to the pump pump.

My PCB is version 2.1 

How should I wire my 220v pump?

Thanks in advance.

Luís


----------



## MitchD

Post up your diagrams but with a 240v pump you will only be driving a relay which will control the pumps voltage.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Luis
The circuit Matho originally designed was setup to allow the relay to switch 12v dc or 240v ac. Some people use the LBP little brown pump on 12v and others use the chugger or march pump on 240v.

The relay will switch either but if you switch 240v you need to be very careful as the PCB will have 240v that can kill. I would have preferred it used a second SSR for 240v pump just like the heater. 

Good electrical practice is to switch the active conductor in 240v circuits. The brown is the active. The relay is just a switch so it will work in either conductor. The relay is only rated for a low amperage and would be damaged if you tried to switch the heater at 10A. If you switch the neutral the wire to the pump will remain live even when it is switched off.

The relay on the board switching 240v is one of the reasons for the disclaimer that appears several times throughout the braumiser build notes. 

I have 240 switched by the relay on mine and it works fine but I never open the box when it is connected to power. 

I recommend that a safety switch be installed in the circuit you run the braumiser on. Water and power make a potential hazardous situation. 

Make sure the pot and motor are connected to earth, it may save a life.

James

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## luisdepaula2001

Zwitter,
Thanks for your answer and a 2nd SSR is a really good idea.
I plan to have the controller away from the pot as another safety matter.
Rgs,
Luis


----------



## stevemc32

I'm trying to learn how to tune the pid and have a quick question on the Ardbir pid ranges.

My research indicates that the P setting is a gain, and the I and D settings are units of time. The question is how do the negative values in the Ardbir software work? The ranges are listed in the manual as P from -100 to 100, I from -100 to 155 and D from -100 to 100.

A simple tuning method starts with removing the I and D terms from the calculation by setting them to zero. Does this mean setting them in Ardbir to 0 or to -100?

Cheers,
Steve.


----------



## stevemc32

No-one's looked at the PID settings? 

The reason I'd like to do some tuning is that I noticed a few updates ago that my system seems to waste 5-10 minutes ramping up the last degree to each of the setpoints. I've unsuccessfully played with the numbers and now want a baseline for tuning but don't know whether to start with zeros or start at the bottom of the ranges.


----------



## dca

You should begin with I & D terms at zero. This will be purely proportional gain. 

The 'I' term integrates (adds up) the error, which will force it back toward the setpoint after gathering enough error (depending on the gain setting. 

The 'D' term is the derivative term and tends to force the process back to the setpoint more quickly, as its gain number increases.

I think you would want to stay away from the negative numbers all together, as they are probably just there for special cases. 

My $0.02, without getting into too much detail. My advice is just to only change one term at a time in order to isolate it's effect. So, using water, tune with just P, making I & D zero. Go next to the I term, keeping P the same and D = zero. Then, if needed, you can adjust D. But, you probably will want to keep it a relatively low number to prevent overshoot.

Dave A


----------



## stevemc32

Thanks Dave. 

I'll give that a go.


----------



## enoch

There is a post on tuning on the ardbir Facebook page which works ok with my Grainfather.
Also the final 2.8.3 (whenever it is released) I think has a tuning interface.

The Facebook post follows:
"PID tuning!!!
Here you are a test of my BIAB after PID tuning...amazing good temperature control.
Setup:
100 KP 
50 KD
10 KI
1500 Sampletime
3000 Window ms
Set Point was 65°C
2800W heater
20 liters of water"


----------



## arzaman

Tuning of PID constant is not easy task
If you look on Wikipedia there are few suggestions on how to find the correct triplets

For sure starting with Kd and Ki set to 0 and just running Kp is a good suggestion

Don't under evaluate also the other parameter configuration that ArdBir provide like sample time and window size...this again depends on your set up and thermodynamic behavior

Davide - ArdBir team


----------



## claudiobr74

arzaman said:


> Tuning of PID constant is not easy task
> If you look on Wikipedia there are few suggestions on how to find the correct triplets
> For sure starting with Kd and Ki set to 0 and just running Kp is a good suggestion
> Don't under evaluate also the other parameter configuration that ArdBir provide like sample time and window size...this again depends on your set up and thermodynamic behavior
> Davide - ArdBir team


Hi Davide,

Do you suggest any place to learn about the Sample time and Window size? I didn't find at any place.

Cheers,

Claudio


----------



## MaxN68

WindowSize must be >= 2×SampleTime.
You should have these values ​​as low as possible, but with the electric heating that is not possible. 
A good compromise might be SampleTime 1500-2000
WindowSize 3000-4500
You need try


----------



## woodwormm

Is there an instruction list and or working example of Mathos controller? 

I'd really like to understand all it can do. 

Lael are there any left?


----------



## MaxN68

You can find the all information and the user manual at the link on my signature (dropbox)


----------



## arzaman

In my vessel set up with low inertia (no external insulation) I try to use lower range value, 2000 sample time and 3000 window size is a good compromise

Consider that reducing window size increase stress of the SSR so maybe add a proper heat sink

Davide


----------



## MastersBrewery

printed forms section said:


> Is there an instruction list and or working example of Mathos controller?
> 
> I'd really like to understand all it can do.
> 
> Lael are there any left?


Lael's kit is listed in the bulk buys section, he has said he's happy to add further orders to the list. Best to PM him.


----------



## arzaman

*Open ArdBir NEW Release 2.8.3RC8 is now avaialble !*
https://goo.gl/qMhPgu
New features, some enanchements and corrections...lot of work since the original code adoption hope you appreciate it !

RELEASE NOTE
-Cooling process automation added
-Whirlpool process automation added
-pwm control for boil enhancement
-EEPROM remapping
-Bug Fix

Davide - ArdBir Team


----------



## enoch

Yey!


----------



## Oggie

Awesome work! Such a collaboration.
I got my PCB assembled and running off the bat, so thanks for such great detail and clear instructions. I'm building mine to go on a Grainfather too encoh, so may want to pick your brains later.

I did find the pid setup confusing but noticed the english screen output was missing the P,I,D after prompting for the constant. Possibly due to the double spacing after the Constant. I removed the extra space and it now displays clearly as in kP,kI and kD.
Also displaying Whirlpool after IodineTime there was a stray e from ...Time so added an extra space after Whirlpool to blank out the stray e.
I fixed the code below if that makes it easy for you just paste in, talk about gilding the lily, it just displays easier.


char *PIDName[] ={"Use ", "Constant kP", "Constant kI", "Constant kD", "SampleTime ", "WindowSet ms", "Heat in Boil", "Calibration " , "Hysteresi "};
char *stageName[] ={"Mash In ", "Phytase ", "Glucanase ", "Protease ", "\xE2""Amylase ", "\xE0""Amylase1 ", "\xE0""Amylase2 ", "Mash Out ", "Boil ", "Cooling ", "Whirlpool "};
char *unitName[] ={"Set Degrees", "Sensor ", "Temp Boil ", "Temp Boil ", "Pump Cycle ", "Pump Rest ", "Pmp PreMash", "Pmp on Mash", "Pmp MashOut", "Pmp on Boil", "Pump Stop ", "Pump Stop ", "PID Pipe ", "Skip Add ", "Skip Remove", "Skip Iodine", "IodineTime " , "Whirlpool "};

The good thing I noticed was I didn't loose my setting programming the Uno again.


----------



## MaxN68

Thanks


----------



## Oggie

Another thing I did was to change the buttons, so down is on the left and up is on the right, more standard convention for me, as I automatically seem to turn down from the left, does anyone else naturally press the wrong button, or just Kiwi's and Aussies on the bottom of the planet, our water goes the wrong way down the sink too. I also changed the naming from "Up* *Dwn" to just "Down Up" ties in better with the other button labels.


----------



## arzaman

Open ArdBir and all in one board used for grainfather controller replacement.

Almost plug and play substitutíon and huge improvement of functionalities ..from simple on / off thermo regulator to a complete automated system whit PID / PWM controller of heating element and pump controller..And much more

Full details in a dedicated post








https://picasaweb.google.com/mysobry.picasa/GrainFatherTransformationWithArdBir#6174463283379314866


----------



## Oggie

That looks really cool arzaman, I've been working on a similar project, just 3d printing the top of my case for it now(still just prototype). What did you do with your SSRs, not worry about a heatsink? Only 2kw 10amp I suppose, do they heat up? I don't have any experience with SSRs, was going to have heat sinks on the right side of the body.
I don't have all the high voltage side yet so a bit away from testing yet.
I was also thinking of puting a manual pump override switch, so if in full auto mode I can flick on the pump to sterilize the wort chiller etc.


----------



## arzaman

Oggie said:


> That looks really cool arzaman, I've been working on a similar project, just 3d printing the top of my case for it now(still just prototype). What did you do with your SSRs, not worry about a heatsink? Only 2kw 10amp I suppose, do they heat up? I don't have any experience with SSRs, was going to have heat sinks on the right side of the body.
> I don't have all the high voltage side yet so a bit away from testing yet.
> I was also thinking of puting a manual pump override switch, so if in full auto mode I can flick on the pump to sterilize the wort chiller etc.


[SIZE=10.5pt]SSR used is the classic 40A / 240V AC[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Heat sink is strongly suggested , I try to post a couple of picture of internal set up (has not build by me but from and ArdBir Italian supporter)[/SIZE]


Manual switch for pump override is not need: you can switch on and off pump from ardbir …softswitch J
Moreover you can decide during set up to keep the pump on during boil

Davide


----------



## arzaman

Some other nice picture to highlight how the Open ArdBir with all in one board is almost PLUG and PLAY for grainfather STC200 subsitituion!


----------



## luisdepaula2001

Experts,

My pot arrived and my mathos controller based on the 2.1 board is ready, the pump is not working and the element is heating the water extremelly slow.

I tested the outlets of the controller, and they have 127v for the pump and for element.

What may I have done wrong?

Thank you,

Luís


----------



## zwitter

Hi luis

Please be very careful as this is mains power and can be lethal. I strongly suggest asking some one with electronics experience take a look. An earth leakage safety switch is highly reccommended.

Can you hear the relay switch?
Does the led light for the pump and heater?
If your SSR has an led, does it light up when heater activated?

With power off.....
Do you have a volt meter and resistance meter?
If so measure the earth continuity from the power in cord to the sockets for the pump and heater. Repeat for the neutral connector. Both earth and the neutral should both be very low resistance and basically are connected straight through.

Then look at the active / line power connection. The active should go to one side of the relay switch section and also to one side of the SSR. 

Let us know and we can advise further. Photos could also help.

James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## luisdepaula2001

Hi James,

I have some eletronics experience but it was 25 years ago, so I'm revisiting everything and going very slow to avoid risks.

In my apartment, in Brazil, the power outlets do not have ground but I did all the installation with the ground.

I have checked the fase and neutral from the wall outlet and all the controller wiring.

The pump and heat led lights on the controller work perfectly and the led light in the SSR also is on.

The only abnormal thing in the controller is the buzzer that is off all the time when I power on.

Cheers,

Luis


----------



## MaxN68

Heve you set all parameters?


----------



## luisdepaula2001

No parameter setting, I did the test in manual mode.

Also, when I tested the power out for pump and heat in the controller; if I do Line and Ground, I get 66 volts and the same for Neutral and ground.


----------



## zwitter

Hi
What is the voltage at the wall socket?
Have you connected the ground to a ground some where? In Australia we have 240v and every socket has ground and there are connections (earth bonds) to the water pipe and gas pipe coming into the house / apartment.

If the ground is not earthed to a good earth point then it will float and potentially be a shock hazard. The heatsink and pot may also float at roughly half the supply voltage.

Photos?
Thanks
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MaxN68

luisdepaula2001 said:


> No parameter setting, I did the test in manual mode.
> 
> Also, when I tested the power out for pump and heat in the controller; if I do Line and Ground, I get 66 volts and the same for Neutral and ground.


You must configure ArdBir before using it in any part.


----------



## MaxN68

zwitter said:


> Hi
> What is the voltage at the wall socket?
> Have you connected the ground to a ground some where? In Australia we have 240v and every socket has ground and there are connections (earth bonds) to the water pipe and gas pipe coming into the house / apartment.
> 
> If the ground is not earthed to a good earth point then it will float and potentially be a shock hazard. The heatsink and pot may also float at roughly half the supply voltage.
> 
> Photos?
> Thanks
> James
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


ArdBir is a controller for your pot and use 12 volt DC.
ArdBir haven't any power output.


----------



## luisdepaula2001

Max, 
What configurations to I need to set?
PID parameters?
What is your suggestions for the values?

I know Ardbir has no power output.


----------



## luisdepaula2001

picture of the wiring, I'm following Matho's wiring diagram.

From right to left; power in, Heat, Pump

The blue wire from power in to heat is Neutral, all the other white wires are neutral

All grounds connect to the SSR


----------



## MaxN68

All information can be found in the manual.
But you read the manual before you ask?


----------



## luisdepaula2001

Max, yes I did read.
The only part I did not configure any parameter in the settings, were the PID.
Rgs,
Luis


----------



## zwitter

Hi Luis

That picture sent shivers down my spine! For the sake of a few dollars of cable you have a whole lot of confusion. 
I notice that the pump you are switching the neutral. (Assuming the white wires far left and far right go to relay on board.). Switching the neutral is BAD. It means the pump is always live even when off.

But as your power in Brazil is not grounded is it like USA where plug can go either way round? I know USA do have grounded sockets and if that is an option where you are that would be a good idea.

I assume the other white and green in middle connected to the low voltage side of SSR go to the heat output on the board. You said the led on the SSR turns on and off correctly so that sounds like it is ok.

I can see the wiring on the two outputs are IECs but the input I assume is an IEC but can not quite see it well enough to check the pins and if it is correct. Does it have a switch or fuse in that power in socket? I would double check here that you have the pins correct. Remember power in is a socket and power out are plugs so the active and neutral will be on opposite sides so when plugged together they would be connecting correctly.

I would do the checks I mentioned before. 

Max, it is a matho board not ArdBir.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MaxN68

If you don't set the pid heat not work fine


----------



## MaxN68

Set the code before compilation for your board.

Set your configuration parameters for your pot before use ArdBir


----------



## luisdepaula2001

James,
Thanks for the help, I will check the wiring today, specially the pump. I followed Mathos wiring diagram for that.
On the heat element, I will do another test as It could have been done wrong. I ordered 110v element but they could have done 220v.
Cheers,
Luis


----------



## Lorenzo99

Hi guys i don't know anything about the controller builds but i do know the power in brasil is 240v not 110v


----------



## luisdepaula2001

Lorenzo,
Brazil uses 220 and 110v. In Rio de Janeiro, where I live it is 110v


----------



## luisdepaula2001

some pictures of the board


----------



## luisdepaula2001

I have done some tests and the relay turns on as soon as I switch the power and it only goes off when I switch the power off.
I have tested the diode and it is working fine.


----------



## arzaman

Even during summer holiday ArdBir team has not stopped design and engineering

we are very proud to announce the reals of a new version of the control board..after the all-in-one the* ArdBir NANO* a new PCB with “piggy” Arduino NANO MCU

the final result is a ultra compact board, more powerful (more I/O), easy to build and low cost (single side PCB and all trough hole component)







what do you think about?

In a few days we are going to deliver CAD file an BoM

enjoy
Davide


----------



## mord4z

Hey arzaman, this looks very promising, when this will be ready?


----------



## arzaman

Few days..
Just the time to review the CAD file and optimize little bit the current code.
Stay tuned
Davide


----------



## arzaman

PCB of nano ArdBir board just arrived
Time to assemble and test and we come back to you


----------



## matho

anyone want a piece of history? thinking of selling my original brauduino setup, I'm not including the home etched sheild but ill include a braumiser v2.1 PCB, relay and connector (all the other parts can be got from jaycar or ebay).






ill also include the topsflo 12v pump I originally planned to use.









so to sum up,
thinking of getting rid of the box, 12v power supply. SSR, heatsink, push buttons, all connectors, DS18b20, PCB, relay, ribbon cable connector and trim pot for PCB and a 12v topsflo ts5 15PV pump, thinking about $60 + postage


----------



## arzaman

[SIZE=10.5pt]Nice piece of history (personally I was aware of it and [/SIZE]fascinated) !
[SIZE=10.5pt]In term of HW at the end of the day nothing has really changed , just engineering differently various shield, all in one board or ready to assemble kit, mega or nano….but your prototype is still valid and actual and you can run last version of ArdBir SW[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]What is greatly changed is the SW level in term of feature and functions and also stability. And we are still evolving and adding new things ![/SIZE]

BR

[SIZE=10.5pt]Davide[/SIZE]


----------



## real_beer

matho said:


> anyone want a piece of history? thinking of selling my original brauduino setup, I'm not including the home etched sheild but ill include a braumiser v2.1 PCB, relay and connector (all the other parts can be got from jaycar or ebay).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so to sum up,
> thinking of getting rid of the box, 12v power supply. SSR, heatsink, push buttons, all connectors, DS18b20, PCB, relay, ribbon cable connector and trim pot for PCB and a 12v topsflo ts5 15PV pump, thinking about $60 + postage


Hi de ho Steve my man :beer:
I've got one running, one still to make, and one of Lael's kits coming :lol:. If no-one takes it within a week I'll buy it, you can't have enough of stuff like this. The only reason I hesitate until next week is because it'd be good too see someone who hasn't got one, or can't afford a new one get it.

Best wishes mate.


----------



## antadl5000

matho said:


> anyone want a piece of history? thinking of selling my original brauduino setup, I'm not including the home etched sheild but ill include a braumiser v2.1 PCB, relay and connector (all the other parts can be got from jaycar or ebay).
> 
> so to sum up,
> thinking of getting rid of the box, 12v power supply. SSR, heatsink, push buttons, all connectors, DS18b20, PCB, relay, ribbon cable connector and trim pot for PCB and a 12v topsflo ts5 15PV pump, thinking about $60 + postage


Hey, I am interested in this, if available... PM sent.


----------



## real_beer

antadl5000 said:


> Hey, I am interested in this, if available... PM sent.


You should ask him to autograph it :lol:


----------



## Barge

I was keen but it's a bit beyond my skill level atm. I was watching QldKev's youtube vids and got a bit over excited, I think.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Barge said:


> I was keen but it's a bit beyond my skill level atm. I was watching QldKev's youtube vids and got a bit over excited, I think.


 Some times jumping in with both feet and closed eyes is the only way. 99.9% of the time you will make beer, and better than even chance a good beer. I can't see where you are, but if there is a particular system you like, and someone on here is using one nearby hit em up for a brew day. Then you get to see what you do and don't like about it.

Take a few beers with you to help lubricate the day.

MB


----------



## Barge

Would if I could. I've got 5 kids here, 3 with special needs. And a missus that barely tolerates brewing as it is. I can barely get a brew on as it is without getting out to someone else's

I'd be buggered without the helpful posts/pics/vids/recipes from you blokes (and presumably sheilas).

I'm liking the look of QldKev's setup. A keggle is probably pushing it but I'm thinking one of the 38L crab cookers from BCF. I've got some big w kettle elements, a grain bag and a ball valve so should be good to throw together a decent 1V system. 

One question though. If I'm using the IEC plugs is there any need to earth to the casing/kettle? Shouldn't the earth from the cable to the element be sufficient?


----------



## MastersBrewery

ALWAYS earth your kettle when installing elements. Have a half dozen or so kids myself, some grown up (sort of), though none with any great difficulties. My twin has a 4 year old son with autism, he's gorgeous, but it takes a special kind of patience and lots of support. Hats off to you sir, and the missus.

MB


----------



## Oggie

We'll I just finished my Grainfather controller, thanks to everyone who contributed towards the final result, thanks to all the detail online, fired up first time. I had the PCBs printed in China and ordered all my components off Aliexpress. It works superbly with water, the pid settings needed some play with but it ramps up and overshoots by .75 degree then settles back and stay within .25 of a degree,very stable.
I 3d printed my case, leaning the CAD software was probably the most difficult task. Here are a few pics.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/22033505095
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/21412348763
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/21845643338


----------



## real_beer

Great job Oggie it looks really professionally made :beer:
Now put some grain in the water and make some beer!


----------



## Oggie

Thanks God, you're the expert you turned water into wine a few years ago too, I read .
Yes planning a brew this weekend a coconut stout which is my favorite.

A couple of question while brewing the water.

In the manual mode the pump stops working at 80 degrees. For the Grainfather I run the boiling wort thru the Chiller to sterilise it so can't do that, yet. I am I missing something?



In Auto mode you only get the option to use the pump/chilling at the end of the boil, not while still in boil, once again to sterilise.
I would prefer the pump on off buttons where the %power on boil is(that could be in the configuration)


----------



## nfragol

Oggie, what PID settings did you configure in the controller ?


----------



## real_beer

In your 'CONFIGURATION' menu cycle through until you reach 'UNIT PARAMETERS' then cylcle through to 'Pump on Boil' and set it to 'ON' :icon_cheers:


----------



## cherryphilip

Oggie said:


> We'll I just finished my Grainfather controller, thanks to everyone who contributed towards the final result, thanks to all the detail online, fired up first time. I had the PCBs printed in China and ordered all my components off Aliexpress. It works superbly with water, the pid settings needed some play with but it ramps up and overshoots by .75 degree then settles back and stay within .25 of a degree,very stable.
> I 3d printed my case, leaning the CAD software was probably the most difficult task. Here are a few pics.
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/22033505095
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/21412348763
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/21845643338


Hi Oggie,
I'm Italian homebrewer and happy owner of the grainfather.
I built my controller for this kettle and optimized the management in terms of pump and priority processes with positive results (+/-0.2°C) and development ardBIR-GF based on 2.8.3RC8 .
I would to share my video, link here below.
https://vimeo.com/138392796
Case is wooden made. I would like to catch the opportunity of making my case in 3d print. Can you help me?

Best Regards
Cheeryphilip


----------



## nfragol

Hi there cherryphilip,

I saw your video a few weeks ago and was really impressed. It made me want to build one for my grainfather, excellent job.

Can you please post the PID settings you have done for the PID configuration ?

@oggie, is it possible for you to share the CAD model for your box ? It looks great !


----------



## cherryphilip

Hi nfragol,
I'm very glad that you like the results; the pid parameters have been optimized by open ardBIR team, that worked on grainfather customed version.

Yes,
I'm available to share the configuration file if you agree to share the 3d printer STILL file.


Best Regards
Filippo


----------



## cherryphilip

Oggie said:


> Thanks God, you're the expert you turned water into wine a few years ago too, I read .
> Yes planning a brew this weekend a coconut stout which is my favorite.
> 
> A couple of question while brewing the water.
> 
> In the manual mode the pump stops working at 80 degrees. For the Grainfather I run the boiling wort thru the Chiller to sterilise it so can't do that, yet. I am I missing something?
> 
> 
> 
> In Auto mode you only get the option to use the pump/chilling at the end of the boil, not while still in boil, once again to sterilise.
> I would prefer the pump on off buttons where the %power on boil is(that could be in the configuration)


Hi Oggie,
Manual/Automatic mode the pump stop set at 80C, 
Infact by my customed version you can sterilise the chiller at the end of the boiling phase,

The new sequence is:

BOILING (no active pump) ---> START COOLING (pump actived by user even if the wort is at 99C) ---> The beer is ready .


The pump management has been optimized for grainfather activity.

Best Regards
Filippo


----------



## nfragol

What is the difference between open Ardbir grainfather version and regular version ?

Where can we get the Grainfather version?

I don't have the 3d printer file, If Oggie is so kind as to let us use it, that would be great!


----------



## Oggie

hi Guys
Thanks for your feedback, I created it in Sketchup. I can also share the stl files but with so many different pc boards better to have the cad files, so you can modify them yourself.
if we got some standard on the board for those without 3d printers, they could just use a print service, Maybe Ardbirs new Nano board. 
Probably 15 hrs printing on my printer, 8 components, $5 plastic.
I also have a 9v battery, that keeps all the settings, if I unplug it while using or want to program in. 
I also changed the code, so the left button is down and changed the case to lower and upper case.
I will post some better and more detailed pictures over the weekend, and cad cross sections.
I believe this has been an amazing community project and only too happy to share my penny's worth.
how do I share the files, if you give me your email, I can send them to you, they are not big 3-4mb.
I had seen your video CheeryPhilip I was envious as I was still in the early stages, it encouraged me. 
My completed unit cost less than $50us including SSrs and power supply, but I bought in bulk off Aliexpess. Probably spent hundreds on components,I could open a factory, but I have some mates that will get them for Xmas now.


----------



## Oggie

My pid setting at the moment are:
Kp 100
Ki 50
Kd 50
Sample time 1500
WindowsSet 3000
Overshoots by .75 then settles back to .25 under then real stable in 3 mins.
I would like CheeryPhilips settings as he seems to have mastered it for the GF, which would be better I am sure.
real_beer -I thought pump on boil would have the pump on in auto cycle. I want it to pump on boil in manual mode, I will play tonight, must go to work now. cheers


----------



## McMelloW

Local 3d Printing service.

Go to 3Dhubs.com find a 3D printer service nearby you. Upload the STL file and ask for a quote. Most of the hubs are private persons doing cheap 3D printer service for other private persons.
This ArdBir Panel, designed by Gutosan. I had it uploaded to a local 3D Hub. within a couple of days I could pick the panel only 3 mile s from my home. For a fair price.

All you need is the STL file. Don't forget to tip the designer.

About the PID settings for the Grainfather.
Gutosan advice me to use the following settings for the PID. P=100; I=20; D=5. When the set point reaches within 1.5 degrees the heating is swithed on and off.
Within 2.5 - 3 minites the temperature is on the set point without any overshoot. The temperature is stable within 0.25°C I think this is pretty good.


----------



## cherryphilip

My PID setting for the GrainFather are different respect to you.
When the set point is reached, i had a max value within 0.25 degrees (see my video), now it has been further optimized within 0.1C without any overshoot, this is pretty good.
See picture here below

I Already created the ArdBir Panel, designed by Gutosan, but i would like to make the case for grainfather only.
My email for further informations or for sharing is: [email protected]

Best regards,
cherryphilip


----------



## nfragol

Thats really great Cherryphilip, can you share your settings ?


----------



## Oggie

Here are snapshots of my design/build, I will upload the stls and cad files to Thingiverse over the weekend. I will also publish the components I used so you can buy the same components if you can't alter the cad files. I designed the case around the components.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/22040017612
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nedgokram/21864241360

I will send you the Sketchup files and you can alter them if you want, it might take a couple of days for me to sort out the stls and upload.

If we can come up with a standard, any one can get it printed,with no CAD experience required.

Cheers....Mark


----------



## nfragol

Thats great Mark, thanks for sharing


----------



## cherryphilip

Great job Mark!!


----------



## arzaman

[SIZE=10.5pt]Preparation to maker faire on going ( -7) [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Long journey for this project: from initial original Matho's controller to current ArdBir version presented in the biggest innovation event in EU ![/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Have a look to MakerFaire home page..[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt][/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]http://www.makerfairerome.eu/en/lets-make-a-beer/[/SIZE]

stay tuned for lot of news !


----------



## Oggie

Fillipo
Your pid settings look rock solid, fantastic job!
Are you familiar with sketchup?
I just use the free version, if the mounting holes for the pub are different you just need to move 4 mounting posts for the shield. 
There are only about, 4 boards out there at present I believe, if anyone sends me a dimensioned PDF of your PCB I will upload the appropriate STL to Thingiverse for the case.
If there are requirements for a case, not for the grainfather, happy to modify where the outputs and mountings are.
I have two case designs, one for the mega and one for the uno, the one I am using is for the uno as the mega is longer, the case is about 20mm wider. The Uno is more symmetrical which I like, the mega and uno are interchangeable at this stage anyway.
I don't use relays, just two SSRs, left it going all evening at various temps and boiling, the SSRs are only warm to touch, the heat sinks work even though the case is enclosed. Now to do its first real brew, wish me luck, let the brew day begin.

David - good luck with the Faire preparations, looks like an awesome event. Are you showcasing the Nano unit?


----------



## cherryphilip

Yes, beginner only! Installed free version on my desktop.

Thanks a lot, tomorrow i will send you the dimensioned PDF of your PCB 
(ALL-IN-One).


Please tell me as you want to share by forum or private message?

Best Regards,
Filippo


----------



## Oggie

Here is the 3d Print Thingiverse link
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1063665


----------



## arzaman

Oggie said:


> David - good luck with the Faire preparations, looks like an awesome event. Are you showcasing the Nano unit?


Thank you will be an amazing event...we wait for more than 100k people and on Friday 20k students

And is also the first time ArdBir team meat physically ..very exited to meet Max , Filippo, Luigi, Savio, Luciano

we will showcase not only NANO...lot of surprise and disruptive news for the community..

Stay tuned


----------



## arzaman

Have you ever seen 1L micro(nano) brewery in action ?

Used to test ArdBir and for live demo but fully working 

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTqW2OnCGT0[/media]


----------



## arzaman

Oggie said:


> Here is the 3d Print Thingiverse link
> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1063665


Hi Oggie
I can share the 3D Sketchup model of the full all-in-one board if you would mind to adapt the case to it and build a full model
contact me for file exchange 
Davide


----------



## Oggie

[SIZE=10.5pt]Hi Davide[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]My email address is [email protected] if you want to send me the file, it won't take much to change. It is currently designed for the #3 ArdBir PCB. If you want to send the Nano as well, I'll do them both for you.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Any changes you would like let me know.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]I did my first brew with it yesterday - sweet! The ArdBir makes it so simple, takes the Grainfather to a new level - well done team.[/SIZE]

BTW, how do you post the actual pictures.

Cheers...Oggie
[SIZE=10.5pt][/SIZE]


----------



## arzaman

a little bit of history for this incerdible project..

demo panel for the Maker Faire


----------



## dca

Trying to go from 2.6.70b10 to 2.8.3rc8
Getting "sketch too big" error. 
33,486 bytes of a 32kbtye max.

Any ideas of what is wrong? It's not much over, but I seem to recall a large vs. smaller one wire temp sensor lib. 

Thanks,
Dave


----------



## MaxN68

Version of IDE?


----------



## dca

Arduini 1.0.6
Downloading 1.6.5 now.


----------



## dca

Compiles now, I see the comment in code @ 1.6.x

Have a USB problem now, but I will try to sort that one out. 

Thanks


----------



## lael

Is anyone using ArdBir software version 2.8.RC8?
Thoughts on stability and effectiveness?


----------



## MitchD

I've been using it since it was released it is very stable but i have had some issues with the 2*16 screen configuration. When set to English it is fine for the home screen menu settings and during operation, however the configuration menu is a bit scrambled but fine if you use Italian 16*2. I have tried comparing the English to Italian code but i haven't found the solution yet. To set the configuration parameters (PID, temp calibration, etc) I upload the Italian 16*2 config and make my changes then switch back to English.

The no PID in boil is great as is being able to set the boil %.


----------



## cherryphilip

Please could you to specify the discrepancy found, so will fixed it.
I'm using the ardbir-gf on 2.8.3 base.


----------



## MaxN68

I use 2.8.4 version


----------



## MitchD

It looks like there are too many characters for the screen to display, rather than scroll it displays the first few characters then scrambles the rest 

eg: constant kp. Only comes up as constantscramble and you have to guess what value you are setting. It gets worse the further you go through that menu. Hysteresis and windows set are fully scrambled.


----------



## cherryphilip

It's clear. 
first solution: 20x4 lcd instead 16x2 lcd.
Second solutions: I try to fix for you.


----------



## lael

MaxN68 said:


> I use 2.8.4 version


Lol - of course you do! Is it stable? Available for public release?


----------



## MitchD

cherryphilip said:


> It's clear.
> first solution: 20x4 lcd instead 16x2 lcd.
> Second solutions: I try to fix for you.


I thought this would be the case and it's the reason I haven't been bothered by it.


----------



## ArnieW

lael said:


> Is anyone using ArdBir software version 2.8.RC8?
> Thoughts on stability and effectiveness?


Hi Lael,

I've brewed maybe four times with this one. I am impressed with the improvements compared to previous code releases. I have not felt the need to do any minor code changes with this release as I have in others. 

I've only used the 20x4 LCD setting, and I wouldn't say I've done bullet proof testing. I did have an issue where it did not fire up the heater after a manual resume but I can't exactly specify what the issue was. For a full brew run through it was excellent.

cheers, Arnie


----------



## MaxN68

lael said:


> Lol - of course you do! Is it stable? Available for public release?


Is my eperimental release.


----------



## Barge

I've ordered a little brown pump. What sort of relay do I need to run it from a Daniel Xan pcb?

Is this one okay?

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Relays-%26-Accessories/PCB-Mount/12V-SPDT-3A-Relay/p/SY4066

Cheers


----------



## cherryphilip

Vin: 12V// Vout: tbd, based on pump type. e.i 220Vac or 12Vdc.

Your relay in attached is a Vout 12V.


Daniel Xan, all in one etc are only supports.

Cheer
Cherryphilip


----------



## cherryphilip

Vin: 12V// Vout: tbd, based on pump type. e.i 220Vac or 12Vdc.

Your relay in attached is a Vout 12V.


Daniel Xan, all in one etc are only supports.

Cheers
Cherryphilip


----------



## Barge

Thanks. The pump is a 12V D.C. pump so that should be fine. I think it only draws 0.65A so the 3A relay should also be okay. 

I'm just not sure it I need a SPDT or DPDT relay. And is there anything else I might not be thinking of.

Basically, what relay do people use when they use a 12V pump?


----------



## MitchD

That relay will be fine but it would be better if you got a din mountable relay, they will have screw terminals so you can easily connect the wiring. The relay you linked to will need some breadboard and soldering.

Connect 13 &14 to the pump output of the controller and use a normally closed contact to switch the pump output.


----------



## Barge

MitchD said:


> That relay will be fine but it would be better if you got a din mountable relay


Can you recommend one?

Or would this be suitable 

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Relays-%26-Accessories/PCB-Mount/12V-DPDT-Special-PC-Mount-Relay/p/SY4052

Mounted onto 

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Relays-%26-Accessories/Cradle-Mount/DIN-Rail-Relay-Mounting-Socket/p/SY4063

Thanks for your help.


----------



## dca

I used one of these, purchased from a domestic seller. They also sell on the hobbiest sites, maybe for a bit more. Used one for pump, one for 12v buzzer:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/5V-2-Channel-Relay-Module-Shield-for-Arduino-ARM-PIC-AVR-DSP-Electronic-10A-ASUS-/301143217104


----------



## Barge

dca said:


> I used one of these, purchased from a domestic seller. They also sell on the hobbiest sites, maybe for a bit more. Used one for pump, one for 12v buzzer:
> 
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/5V-2-Channel-Relay-Module-Shield-for-Arduino-ARM-PIC-AVR-DSP-Electronic-10A-ASUS-/301143217104


Thanks for the info. That seller doesn't ship to Oz unfortunately. Did you mount it to the enclosure?


----------



## dca

Yeah, you can find them all over as they are sourced from China (of course). It's got some small MTG holes that can be used with a small screw or stand-off. I have a roomy enclosure that I repurposed from another product, but this module is only about 1.5 x 2.5 inches. Two panel mounted relays with screw terminals would be same size or larger.


----------



## cherryphilip

It's ok -http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Relays-%26-Accessories/PCB-Mount/12V-DPDT-Special-PC-Mount-Relay/p/SY4052 - 
Do you create a specific pcb with connectors.


----------



## cherryphilip

Barge said:


> Can you recommend one?
> Or would this be suitable http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Relays-%26-Accessories/PCB-Mount/12V-DPDT-Special-PC-Mount-Relay/p/SY4052
> Mounted onto http://www.jaycar.com.au/Electromechanical-Components/Relays-%26-Accessories/Cradle-Mount/DIN-Rail-Relay-Mounting-Socket/p/SY4063
> Thanks for your help.


----------



## Barge

MitchD said:


> Connect 13 &14 to the pump output of the controller and use a normally closed contact to switch the pump output.


The first bit I get but I'm not sure what you mean by "normally closed contact". I thought I had to wire the controller to one side of the relay and the pump directly to the other and the relay would do the switching.


----------



## MitchD

The controller is only capable of driving a relay. You will need a separate 12v positive to run the pump. Take a positive 12v from your power supply into one side of the relay contact, the other side gets wired to the pump positive. The negative runs from the pump back to the power supply without being switched. 

When the controller turns the pump on a click will be heard and the pump will run.


----------



## Barge

Got it. Cheers


----------



## Tumancheg

Do you planning to transfer the project of ArdBir from the Arduino to ESP8266?


----------



## heffa35

*Is the PID settings fixed??????????*

I have build a brewsystem based on 2.8.3.RC
Ran a testrun with water yesterday to tune the PID.
After several hours, many parameter changes, I'm not able to get this correct.
I ending the regulation severel degreed below setpoint every time, the higher setpoint the higer offset.

I looked at the code and have a question regarding some of the code.
Is the PID parameters read from eeprom other places than in the function listet below?
Find it odd that this is been commented out

_void load_pid_settings () {
//byte eepromKp = r_set(1);
//byte eepromKi = r_set(2);
//byte eepromKd = r_set(3); 
//byte SampleTime = r_set(4);

//r_set(eepromKp, 1);
//r_set(eepromKi, 2);
//r_set(eepromKd, 3);

//myPID.SetTunings(eepromKp - 100, (double)((eepromKi - 100.00) / 250.00), eepromKd - 100); // send the PID settings to the PID
myPID.SetTunings(r_set(1) - 100, (double)((r_set(2) - 100.00) / 250.00), r_set(3) - 100); // send the PID settings to the PID

//r_set(SampleTime, 4);
//r_set(WindowSize, 5);
WindowSize = r_set(5);

//myPID.SetOutputLimits(0.0, 255.0);

//myPID.SetSampleTime(SampleTime * 250);
myPID.SetSampleTime(r_set(4) * 250);

} _

In the definition section I find this code:
_PID myPID(&Input, &Output, &Setpoint, 100, 40, 0, DIRECT);_

Does this add up to that the PID has been changed to a fixed setting???


----------



## SBOB

heffa35 said:


> *Is the PID settings fixed??????????*
> 
> I have build a brewsystem based on 2.8.3.RC
> Ran a testrun with water yesterday to tune the PID.
> After several hours, many parameter changes, I'm not able to get this correct.
> I ending the regulation severel degreed below setpoint every time, the higher setpoint the higer offset.
> 
> I looked at the code and have a question regarding some of the code.
> Is the PID parameters read from eeprom other places than in the function listet below?
> Find it odd that this is been commented out
> 
> _void load_pid_settings () {
> //byte eepromKp = r_set(1);
> //byte eepromKi = r_set(2);
> //byte eepromKd = r_set(3);
> //byte SampleTime = r_set(4);
> 
> //r_set(eepromKp, 1);
> //r_set(eepromKi, 2);
> //r_set(eepromKd, 3);
> 
> //myPID.SetTunings(eepromKp - 100, (double)((eepromKi - 100.00) / 250.00), eepromKd - 100); // send the PID settings to the PID
> myPID.SetTunings(r_set(1) - 100, (double)((r_set(2) - 100.00) / 250.00), r_set(3) - 100); // send the PID settings to the PID
> 
> //r_set(SampleTime, 4);
> //r_set(WindowSize, 5);
> WindowSize = r_set(5);
> 
> //myPID.SetOutputLimits(0.0, 255.0);
> 
> //myPID.SetSampleTime(SampleTime * 250);
> myPID.SetSampleTime(r_set(4) * 250);
> 
> } _
> 
> In the definition section I find this code:
> _PID myPID(&Input, &Output, &Setpoint, 100, 40, 0, DIRECT);_
> 
> Does this add up to that the PID has been changed to a fixed setting???


Isnt the definition section just to initialise the PID settings and the line that isn't commented out
_myPID.SetTunings(r_set(1) - 100, (double)((r_set(2) - 100.00) / 250.00), r_set(3) - 100); // send the PID settings to the PID_
is the one thats called when needed (both in manual mode and auto mode) whenever the gas setting is false?


----------



## MaxN68

The correct code is 


void load_pid_settings () {
myPID.SetTunings(r_set(1) - 100, (double)((r_set(2) - 100.00) / 250.00), r_set(3) - 100);
WindowSize = r_set(5);
myPID.SetSampleTime(r_set(4) * 250);
} 

This section call the parameter from EEPROM and set the PID before start the elecrical Mash process.

I have downloaded this code from public dropbox space


----------



## SBOB

MaxN68 said:


> The correct code is
> 
> 
> void load_pid_settings () {
> myPID.SetTunings(r_set(1) - 100, (double)((r_set(2) - 100.00) / 250.00), r_set(3) - 100);
> WindowSize = r_set(5);
> myPID.SetSampleTime(r_set(4) * 250);
> }
> 
> This section call the parameter from EEPROM and set the PID before start the elecrical Mash process.
> 
> I have downloaded this code from public dropbox space


MaxN68, while you are here...do you maintain/modify any of the code
While playing with Lael's kit I found an error in the LCD20x4_ENG.h file which causes the PID settings to show an invalid character at the end of the line on every setting except the first, as the first settings (Electric/Gas) are offset by one too many chars (current cursor offset is 10,2 but needs to be 9,2 to make the Gas and Electric strings stop at the same location as the other settings). Looking at the history of the file it seems it was modified back in Feb and changed from (9, 2) to (10, 2).

e.g.

_void PidSet(int pidSet, byte i){_
_ if (i == 0) {_
_ lcd.setCursor(9, 2); //<- This line was previously lcd.setCursor(10, 2);_


----------



## heffa35

I see that the dropbox code is same as github code if we remove all the comments.
Thats a good sign. Maybe it is correct and working just my process thats wrong.


Today I realized that the r_Set array is set in the set_PID () function.

Back to square one. 

I will give it another go tonight.

Thanks for the responses


----------



## MaxN68

The released code is Open Source nature and as such is maintained, particularly as regards the various translations.
The files in question are sent by people they did a tremendous job for the good of the community, some of them even make beer.
I can not verify every time the accuracy of that code, it would be impossible to do so, but I will only control the bugs reported on the program logic.
Very often this feedback even happens and we find ourselves continually to debug to ensure that you do not have serious errors on the procedure.

I'm sure that there are no errors on the PID procedure, also because I use ArdBir and I have a temperature error <+ - 0.25.
The process of setting the PID is long and tedious, but it can very well be done one step at a time to every Mash. Do not come into play only the values ​​of PID constants but also the values ​​assigned to SampleTime and WindowSize. Sampling time high reactivity minor damage but facilitate the setting, lower speeds can make everything very fast intervention of correction but also less stable.

As for the display error would have liked to have a feedbak with a proper file to be sent to the email address [email protected]

I thank you for the attention you show in our project, we will soon have some news to announce.

Stay tuned

[Google Translate]


----------



## megabyte

SBOB said:


> MaxN68, while you are here...do you maintain/modify any of the code
> While playing with Lael's kit I found an error in the LCD20x4_ENG.h file which causes the PID settings to show an invalid character at the end of the line on every setting except the first, as the first settings (Electric/Gas) are offset by one too many chars (current cursor offset is 10,2 but needs to be 9,2 to make the Gas and Electric strings stop at the same location as the other settings). Looking at the history of the file it seems it was modified back in Feb and changed from (9, 2) to (10, 2).
> 
> e.g.
> 
> _void PidSet(int pidSet, byte i){_
> _ if (i == 0) {_
> _ lcd.setCursor(9, 2); //<- This line was previously lcd.setCursor(10, 2);_


Ahh, I just came across this post. I submitted a code fix and pull request on github earlier today to clear that last character but I think moving the "Electric/Gas" text one position left as SBOB suggested would have been a more elegant solution.

Pull request can be viewed here: https://github.com/ArdBir/Open-ArdBir/pull/3/files

Incidentally, can anyone point me to the specifics about compatibility with the particle photon shield shield? I read there was a pin mapping issue but I can't find the specifics. Surely nothing that a stanley knife and soldering iron can't fix?


----------



## MaxN68

Sorry for the lack of maintenance of GitHub but I can not do it.
I don't have a DSL connection and I had to delegate the maintenance to others.
My only possibility to connect at internet is my phone, but I have low GB profile of data traffic.
I can connect in office also, but in this moment I don't have work.

Please give me any suggestion, bug report or correction in email: [email protected]

Thank you.


----------



## real_beer

MaxN68 said:


> Sorry for the lack of maintenance of GitHub but I can not do it.
> I don't have a DSL connection and I had to delegate the maintenance to others.
> My only possibility to connect at internet is my phone, but I have low GB profile of data traffic.
> I can connect in office also, but in this moment I don't have work.
> 
> Please give me any suggestion, bug report or correction in email: [email protected]
> 
> Thank you.


Max, you and your team have done a great job with all the new features in the code, it can't be easy writing technical information, code and answering questions from around the world in so many different languages, excellent work. :beer:


----------



## megabyte

Hey MaxN68, just wondering why is the temperature rounded to the nearest half-degree? E.g. 25.00c, 25.50c


----------



## MastersBrewery

Michael Burton said:


> Hey MaxN68, just wondering why is the temperature rounded to the nearest half-degree? E.g. 25.00c, 25.50c


The resolution ie accuracey would increase code size of the PID library. There is simply no more space for code on the arduino uno. If you are using Laels kit or arduino mega the code space is there to expand these sorts of capabilities. How ever I know nothing of coding at all so some smart bunny would have to put in the work and create a variation for the mega with changes to increase resolution (the probe is capable of easily 0.1) .

MB


----------



## lael

Do people really need more than 0.5 accuracy for brewing?


----------



## real_beer

If you've ever seen the 'Vicar Of Dibley' .. Yes ............. yes, yes, yes, yes yes........... No! :lol:


----------



## SBOB

lael said:


> Do people really need more than 0.5 accuracy for brewing?


I think its more the OCD side of things of seeing the temp jump in 0.5 steps 

And on that note, Lael can you tell me the exact model of the temperature probe? 
The current adruino code is progammed to assume's its a 'DS18S20 or DS1820'. Its part of the 'one-wire' library.

_The code to read the temperature needs to be slightly different for the DS18B20 (and DS1822), because it returns a 12-bit temperature value (0.0625 deg precision), while the DS18S20 and DS1820 return 9-bit values (0.5 deg precision)._

From the checklist it says 'DS18B20'. Is that correct?


----------



## MaxN68

The probe resolution with oneWire library is 0.25.

You can put the probe resolution at 0.125 or 0.0625 whit Dallas additional library.
The space for coding is 99.9% full, you can use Arduino Mega for this solution but the probe resolution (0.125) cause a delay of 65%, for 0.0625 probe resolution the delay is 135% (it's verified!!!); .
The ArdBir code run on Arduino Uno shield with minimal delay problems with 0.25 resolution.

We have evaluated every possible solution to add new features, but this would necessarily lead to the PCB's restructuring and rewriting code.

if I write code, I'll totally rewriting with new proprietary algorithms simplifying some logical and reviewing the entire structure and layout and of course a new PCB dedicated


----------



## lael

Sbob, its an ds18b20. You can prob check previous versions of ardbir to see versions that have .25 resolution. The mega has plenty of space


----------



## MaxN68

lael said:


> Sbob, its an ds18b20. You can prob check previous versions of ardbir to see versions that have .25 resolution. The mega has plenty of space


It's not an ArdBir Version problem!!!!

The probe resolution is RESIDENTIAL in the probe.

If you have used the _DS18x20 whit another resolution these is permanent in probe._
_You must reprogram the resolution probe with any example sketch of Dallas Library_


it's NOT a space question, the Mega is not a solution


----------



## lael

Hi max, I thought the max resolution was in the probe and you can read a lower resolution using software?

So the natural resolution of the ardbir software is normally 0.25?


----------



## MaxN68

The max resolution of the probe is 0.0625. In ArdBir and Brauduino has always used a resolution of 0.25, it is clear also from the temperature settings that have just steps of 0.25.
If you set 0.125 resolution you have the 60sec of timer = 96sec real time


----------



## MaxN68

If you want to use 0.125 resolution you need to rewrite timing code using a RTC module and a new PCB and use 3 new library (1 for the probe and 2 for the RTC).


----------



## MaxN68

the benefit you get going from 0.25 to 0125 does not justify the amount of work and recoding necessary hardware and software, regardless of the increase in spending.


----------



## lael

To be honest Max, I don't even think that 0.5 increments are a big problem. I think for most people it is something that would be nice. I think mainly because it shows the heating changing faster. 

I confirmed last night it is the probes. One temp probe I stuck in went up by .25, the other up by .5 (different styles of probe).


----------



## MaxN68

You can set the probe with any Dallas Library example


----------



## MaxN68

An increase by 0.25 is the standard. If we lower the resolution to 0.50 we have a faster response of the probe (minimum sampling time to reading) but the controller would not have reason to be a control to 0.25, if we raise the resolution we will have sampling times more lenses and an increased delay compared to real time.
The 0.25 resolution is perfect for our use.


----------



## megabyte

Wow, sorry to open up a can of worms. I thought it might have been smoothed out in the UI to save us pedantic users from sleepless nights trying to tune out 0.1c overshoots with our PID settings :lol: I had no idea it was done to keep the code size down. A very good reason.



lael said:


> Do people really need more than 0.5 accuracy for brewing?


I don't think the accuracy is all that important so long as it's consistent between your brews. The _precision_ of 0.0625 degree steps could be helpful for the pid holding a steady temperature though.




lael said:


> I confirmed last night it is the probes. One temp probe I stuck in went up by .25, the other up by .5 (different styles of probe).


Wow I'll have to try this. The DS1820 (without the B ) can only do 0.5C so it sounds like it's smart enough to scale the precision based on the probe type.

Edit: B and ) was turning into a smiley so I added a space betwen them.


----------



## lael

I did some playing with this this morning. It looks like the temp probes that I'm providing with the kits are set to a resolution of 9bits. I'll post a video showing how to change it to 10 tonight ( will show .25 degree increments) 

Essentially for the impatient or more savvy, download the libraries from the software update video and replace the old ones with the new ones. There will be an additional DallasTemperature library. Open up the DallasTemperature library folder, one up the basic example. Change the one wire pin to 11, and the resolution to 10. Upload the sketch, open tools>serial monitor. Check that it increments by .25. 

Re-upload ardbir and go through set up. Watch the glorious .25 temp changes for hours on end


----------



## dca

OK, voice of reason here  you guys need to pull this into perspective. I have been an EE for ~20 yrs, working on precision temp control systems for 14 yrs. 

This DS1825 sensor is only accurate to 0.5*C / 0.85*F in the range of -10 to +85*C.....at boiling in the range of -55 to 125*C, it is only accurate to +/- 2*C (3.4*F). 

So, having the extra resolution w/o accuracy does not really buy you anything.
Yes, you can calibrate, but it is still subject to accuracy of your source and the curve of the DS1825. 

ave


----------



## lael

Yep, I agree, and am happy with 0.5 accuracy. It is nice to see the temp change faster though


----------



## SBOB

lael said:


> I did some playing with this this morning. It looks like the temp probes that I'm providing with the kits are set to a resolution of 9bits. I'll post a video showing how to change it to 10 tonight ( will show .25 degree increments)


I ran out of enthusiasm before working out what needed changing, so thanks for saving me more thinking


----------



## SBOB

dca said:


> OK, voice of reason here  you guys need to pull this into perspective. I have been an EE for ~20 yrs, working on precision temp control systems for 14 yrs.
> 
> ave


Yeah, but pretend we are operators...Voices of reason dont work.. We just want to see little numbers moving around 
(just had a discussion with one today wanting 4 decimal places of accuracy shown in his SCADA for a water turbidity meter... )


----------



## MaxN68

I'm happy with 0.125 accuracy on my ArdFerm


----------



## lael

lael said:


> I did some playing with this this morning. It looks like the temp probes that I'm providing with the kits are set to a resolution of 9bits. I'll post a video showing how to change it to 10 tonight ( will show .25 degree increments)
> 
> Essentially for the impatient or more savvy, download the libraries from the software update video and replace the old ones with the new ones. There will be an additional DallasTemperature library. Open up the DallasTemperature library folder, one up the basic example. Change the one wire pin to 11, and the resolution to 10. Upload the sketch, open tools>serial monitor. Check that it increments by .25.
> 
> Re-upload ardbir and go through set up. Watch the glorious .25 temp changes for hours on end



this is proving a little more elusive than I first thought. You might need to enjoy watching 0.5 temp changes for hours on end for a little while longer


----------



## SBOB

lael said:


> this is proving a little more elusive than I first thought. You might need to enjoy watching 0.5 temp changes for hours on end for a little while longer


why?...worked for me based on your one line explanation, I did it this evening....
or you mean elusive as you dont have time to do the video for people?


----------



## lael

SBOB said:


> why?...worked for me based on your one line explanation, I did it this evening....
> or you mean elusive as you dont have time to do the video for people?


Have you turned it off and on again?


----------



## SBOB

lael said:


> Have you turned it off and on again?


damn you dashing my 0.25c hopes and dreams...
I had not


----------



## lael

Lol, yeah, that's what my reaction was too


----------



## SBOB

lael said:


> Lol, yeah, that's what my reaction was too


strange..
even when i enable the Dallas define as 'True' within the Ardbir code (which then is suppose to/appears to perform the same sensors.setResolution command) I still only get 0.5c resolution

Did have a small panic when I re-started a new Ardbir project and forgot to configure the correct board and language type.. had a screen full of solid lines 1 and 3


----------



## zwitter

Hey guys
While you are all knee deep in t he code, I have a request.

We have some LCD scrambling issues due to the use of a relay to switch the pump. If the wiring is neat it really is not an issue but for some it can be a big problem. 

So the request is can the LCD be refreshed / re-drawn after the pump is turned on or off each time? Or maybe once a minute instead?

I Guess that is either easy or near impossible depending on how the code is written. Any future boards will use SSRs but as we have Mega boards space is not the limitation.

Thanks
Zwitter
James

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## SBOB

zwitter said:


> So the request is can the LCD be refreshed / re-drawn after the pump is turned on or off each time? Or maybe once a minute instead?
> 
> I Guess that is either easy or near impossible depending on how the code is written. Any future boards will use SSRs but as we have Mega boards space is not the limitation.


while others know the code much better than me, I'll say it would be quite difficult to implement.
As the screen sections/words are only written/changed when they are changed in the code, its not like there are 4 strings within the code holding what should be displayed at any time which you could simply re-write to the LCD. For instance the top line is written once on startup and never again.

I'm pretty sure its a memory reason, but if memory wasnt a concern (like in the mega) a simpler way would be to have 4 strings (one for each line) and you re-write them as required then output them to the screen. This would allow for the screen to be 'refreshed' whenever you wanted, whereas currently you would need to know what mode/display you currently have so you could re-create what may be scrambled on the screen


----------



## tateg

zwitter said:


> Hey guys
> While you are all knee deep in t he code, I have a request.
> 
> We have some LCD scrambling issues due to the use of a relay to switch the pump. If the wiring is neat it really is not an issue but for some it can be a big problem.
> 
> So the request is can the LCD be refreshed / re-drawn after the pump is turned on or off each time? Or maybe once a minute instead?
> 
> I Guess that is either easy or near impossible depending on how the code is written. Any future boards will use SSRs but as we have Mega boards space is not the limitation.
> 
> Thanks
> Zwitter
> James
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Hey zwitter,
Is it possible to use the ssr for the second heating element for the pump if I have no intention of a second element.


----------



## lael

Hey Tate,
The issue is when people don't organise their wiring well. There's been two reports from almost a hundred kits sent out(unsure how many have been built at this point). I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## real_beer

lael said:


> Hey Tate,
> The issue is when people don't organise their wiring well. There's been two reports from almost a hundred kits sent out(unsure how many have been built at this point). I wouldn't worry about it.


The beauty of your latest design lael is that the two halves of the box can be unplugged to work on allowing much less wiring that has to be squashed inside. I had scrambling issues with my original Matho's Controller but eventually sorted it out using the same method you advocate.

I'm also waiting on a slow boat from China for a USB panel mount to fit outside the box software updates can be done without having to keep opening the box and moving the wires around unnecessarily all the time. It's not such an issue with the new design but I think keep opening them up repeatedly is always best avoided if possible. My controller is mounted high and well away from the system so getting liquid and steam on it isn't a problem for me, although I'll still put a cover over the USB port. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB-2-0-type-B-male-to-A-Female-host-case-panel-mount-screw-short-cable-cord-/310790581002?

Looks like your next design upgrade will be a wiring loom kit :lol:

Edit: You could probably charge $250 for it by itself :lol:


----------



## tateg

lael said:


> Hey Tate,
> The issue is when people don't organise their wiring well. There's been two reports from almost a hundred kits sent out(unsure how many have been built at this point). I wouldn't worry about it.


Thanks Lael,
I had a few issues with the old controller but the box was pretty tight. Just thought that as a safe guard I could use the second ssr as I do not have any plans on adding a second element.
Cheers


----------



## MitchD

Using a second ssr to switch the pump wont fix the problem because it is the 240v causing the scrambling. You may also find that the element switching on and off causes the scramble. If you cant re route your wiring try getting some shielded cable and connext the shield to earth. It may help but if the wiring is that bad it may not either.


----------



## lael

This isn't true. The element is a resistive load vs an inductive load which has a different pattern for drawing current.

The combination of switching 240v for a motor/pump through a relay on the board causes chatter/arcing which creates the scrambling. SSRs provide isolation between the AC and DC and so would also deal with the issue by removing the 'chatter' and by preventing the 240v from interacting with the board. SSRs (that we are using) also switch at zero on the AC wave, which means even if the SSR switches do 'chatter' its still a 'clean' switch.

So why stick with the current design? It provides flexibility - you can use a DC pump OR an AC pump, it's compact which allows us to fit 2xSSRs in the box for heating which makes the unit great for bigger or faster batches, and it works.

We've tested the boards thoroughly and the emf shielding through the snubber circuit and board design provided has worked with chugger, march and kaixin/kegking pumps without scrambling. But... If you are sloppy with your wiring, then yeah, you might still get issues.

I haven't tried this - but if you really want to use an SSR for the 240v side of the pump, you should be able to run 12v out from the power supply into the relay (pump terminal) on the board and then out to the +ve DC side of the SSR, then run the -ve side of the DC side of the SSR back to the -ve of the power supply. The relay will switch the DC on and off, which will trigger the SSR, which will switch the 240v pump. Please note you can't use a single SSR to switch both heat and pump at the same time. 

Or... You could just be neat with your wiring 

Of course... If your wiring is neat and you are still having issues - PM me and I'll help.



MitchD said:


> Using a second ssr to switch the pump wont fix the problem because it is the 240v causing the scrambling. You may also find that the element switching on and off causes the scramble. If you cant re route your wiring try getting some shielded cable and connext the shield to earth. It may help but if the wiring is that bad it may not either.


----------



## MitchD

The ac voltage is the problem. Induced voltage created by the 240v ac is what is causing the scrambling, weather its a resistive or inductive load makes no difference. The use of ssr or relay makes no difference.

If the load side of either the pump or element is ran parallel to the screen wiring it will induce a small amount of ac voltage into that wiring scrambling the screen, turning that ac load off wont fix the scrambled screen because it doesnt have time based reset written into the code.

I'm sure you have done some strenuous testing and you are correct that neat wiring is the way to fix the problem. I wasnt part of you bulk buy because i was impatient and capable of building and assembling it on my own, I built my own by following the schematics posted by matho and max.
While testing (very sloppy wiring) I had a scrambling problem while only using the element run off the same type of ssr you are using.


----------



## lael

So I called Mitch this morning to chat about this, Mitch was really helpful - here's what we talked about (Mitch feel free to correct / clarify anything).

1. Induced voltage generally occurs when you have two sets of cables running parallel - one with high(er) AC voltage. This will induce a voltage an AC voltage in the lower powered cable nearby. The worst situation (from chatting to Mitch - licensed electrician) is when running high current (Amps) for longer runs (>10m). The principles of - keep wires running parallel either shielded or separated is true in any situation, including the Brauduino. Ideally wires should cross at right angles to reduce induction and the shorter the cable, the smaller the effects.

2. The key issue for screen scrambling in the new Brauduino kit is still the pump. Mitch's setup is a little different in that his LCD is further away from the arduino, with wires running through an electrical cabinet, which means the induction for him was in the wires leading to the LCD as both the element cable and the lcd screen cables were running parallel. It was from his heating element only (no pump involved), however, he runs a 5500w element which is higher than most people and therefore more likely to induce AC in the LCD wires. In the Brauduino kit the LCD is connected with PCB headers, which essentially means the induction is almost impossible to happen in this way (the pins are perpendicular to nearly all the wiring).

3. If your wiring is a mess, with long AC cables and long DC cables, you make yourself more susceptible to EMF both from the pump switching and potentially from the heating elements (though seemingly not very likely with 10A elements being used). Tips - same as given before - keep the wiring short as practically possible, push the wiring down and route it at the back of the box as much as possible. Keep it neat and running around the outside of the box, and DC running separately (not parallel) to the AC cabling. Twist the Pump cables going into the board so they look like a helix with a reasonably tight twist and cable tie them together so they won't come undone (the spiralling helps reduce/cancel the emf around the cord). Twisting the AC cables for the elements going from the SSR to the heat outlet sockets would also potentially assist to cancel any emf/induction.

If your wiring is neat and well run, you will likely find your controller working beautifully for a long time without issues  

As always - please ask any questions you have and consult with your electrician for verification and advice about anything mentioned here before implementing it.


----------



## nikgr

Hi there .
I am interested on making a controller as such ...
I found on the OpenArdbir site 3 pcb designs
GTO Ardbir Controler
PCB Final
PCB OpnArdbir

Which one should I prefer to develop ?
I can find both Arduino Uno and Nano Boards in my country .Other than that ,are all compatible with initial settings of Ardbir?
If I choose to develop the pcb with the arduino nano how is registered at the initial settings?
Thank you in advance.


----------



## nfragol

Nikgr hi, I am from Greece too, what do you need to know ?


----------



## nikgr

Hi if the arduino nano pcb is worth or I would face problems (I've read on the description that may needed a usb programer (why is that?)) and which one of the two other pcb's provided is best for use with the Arduino uno ...
I need to clarify this before starting gathering parts .


----------



## MaxN68

PCB OpenArdbir by DanielXan (bmp file or CAD file) is for Arduino Uno
PCB GTO Controllet by Guto is for Arduino Nano


----------



## [email protected]

Hey guys,

I've got a question, however I'm not sure if this is the correct place to ask it.

I've got the Ardbir all-in-one board and have wired it up following the PDF guide supplied by Ardbir. When I turn it on, everything starts up fine, I can go into manual mode and switch on either the heater or the pump and the LEDs on the board come on. However my SSR does not seem to be activated when I turn switch it on. It's like the terminals on the board get no power despite the LED coming on. 

Does anyone have any ideas? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Peter


----------



## MastersBrewery

Peter,
I'm not familiar with that particular board, matho's original had the LEDs inline so if they were lit; the on board relay was closed (pump circuit) or there was power to the SSR (heating circuit). Max the poster directly above yours would be able to help you out also a picture of your wiring would be helpful to anyone trying to trouble shoot this. If max hasn't replied in the next day or two send him a pm.

MB


----------



## [email protected]

MastersBrewery said:


> Peter,
> I'm not familiar with that particular board, matho's original had the LEDs inline so if they were lit; the on board relay was closed (pump circuit) or there was power to the SSR (heating circuit). Max the poster directly above yours would be able to help you out also a picture of your wiring would be helpful to anyone trying to trouble shoot this. If max hasn't replied in the next day or two send him a pm.
> 
> MB


Hi MB, Thanks for the reply. The wiring for the all-in-one board is pretty simple, you kind of just hook it up to the 12v and then hook up the relay...

Here's the image provided by ardbir.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.ecwid.com/images/6605042/306558246.jpg

Hopefully I'll hear from Max.


----------



## MastersBrewery

ok so circuits look the same/similar; if the LED is lit the Relay out puts should have power, insure you have the board wired to the DC side of the relay, once again a quality pic of your work would be helpful.
Ed: Just a thought you do realise the high voltage side of the relay is just a switch; usually put on the path of the active 240v


----------



## [email protected]

MastersBrewery said:


> ok so circuits look the same/similar; if the LED is lit the Relay out puts should have power, insure you have the board wired to the DC side of the relay, once again a quality pic of your work would be helpful.
> Ed: Just a thought you do realise the high voltage side of the relay is just a switch; usually put on the path of the active 240v


Thanks, I understand how the relays work, I built a fermentation chamber with the brewpi system that switches a heater and fridge using similar SSRs.

I can take a pic of my specific wiring when I get home tonight, I'll also double check the output with my meter to make see if there is actually any output coming out or if my heater relays or 12v pump are dead, but it seems unlikely to me that they both would be.

On the curcuits, one thing I notice is that the bus to the LED seems to run in parallel with the bus to the transistor. Is it possible that the transistor, diode or resistors are damaged and so the LED lights up but the circuit breaks down there?


----------



## heffa35

Peter, the picture provided by Ardbir has an error. The pump relay is wrong. It illustrates connection form the board and into the 'load' side.
Make sure you connect both the pump relay/SSR to the IN - DC connectors.


----------



## [email protected]

heffa35 said:


> Peter, the picture provided by Ardbir has an error. The pump relay is wrong. It illustrates connection form the board and into the 'load' side.
> Make sure you connect both the pump relay/SSR to the IN - DC connectors.


Thanks, yes I get that, but the other relay doesn't work either, nor if I connect my 12v pump directly to the ardbir board as I've read other people do.


----------



## MastersBrewery

ok just to make sure all is good I'll post up matho's destructions page 17 is the diagram you want to check out just note his board has a relay onboard for the pump so you will need to wire that through, actually I'd be more inclined to use 2 SSR's but thats just me
View attachment brauduino controller build1.pdf


----------



## [email protected]

OK, so I broke out the multimeter, when I have the "pump off" I get 11v over the pump terminals, of I have the "pump on" I get 10v over the pump terminals. Both "heat off" and "heat on" give me 0.01v over the heat terminals. This sounds like the transistors are dead?


----------



## mord4z

Hi guys, here the status of my controller:






PCB mounted and Ardbir running, I made a 3D sketch, feel free to use: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5at4r51bbMd-caixa


----------



## Barge

After about 3 months I have finally finished building my controller. I would like to thank Oggie for helping me get started.

I'm super excited to use this in anger for the first time.


----------



## NealK

I have been using my original control box for about 18 months now and run the latest version of ArdBir. I use the original kit that was a board that I had to solder together myself and it has worked brilliantly for the last year and a half.
I had to do a talk today at my brew club (Westgate Brewers) on how to build your own Braumeister type brewery. Everything went pretty well until I opened up the control box. I haven't opened it for a few months and was pretty shocked when I saw what has happened to my SSR.




I have a 3kw Birko 40l urn and did upgrade the mains connectors to be 20 amp. I very surprised to see how badly cooked the ssr is. A new is on its way from ebay but I think I will have to add some extra cooling to the heatsink when I fit the new ssr.
Has anybody else had a similar issue?


----------



## Hpal

I have a 4500w element and use a 40A SSR, that may be your issue.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Nealk

Yep that does not look the best.

A quick google brings up hits about fake 25A fotek SSRs

It is possible that the SSR you have is not an original?

I actually am still running my original SSRs that I have had for almost 30 years and they are still good but I have a 2000w element. 

Regardless of brand SSRs do get hot and there are a few factors that can help.
First is the heatsink. But even mounting direction changes the amount of heat that can be dissipated. Ideal position allows the fins to run vertically and allow convection to create a flow across the heatsink. Heatsink paste is a must. A fan makes an enormous difference. But even the size of the wires connecting to the SSR will change the amount of heat that is dissipated.

I will post the way to tell if is a counterfeit device and note that they have been sold through Amazon and other large retailers not just ebay.

I think the kits have the 40A version and not heard stories about them as yet.

i would consider a bigger heatsink, mounted vertically or a fan when you replace the SSR.
James



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## zwitter

Hi Nealk

SSR counterfeit 25A Fotek

https://ul.com/newsroom/publicnotices/ul-warns-of-solid-state-relay-with-counterfeit-ul-recognition-mark-release-13pn-52/

there are many other sites and some look to be lower amperage versions relabeled to higher current.

I use other brand ones in my original kit and the latest kit is being set up this week with an Easter brew planned. Fitting a fan will prolong the life of a counterfeit but probably worth checking if you have a 25A version for the beveled corner on the label.

I will check my ones tonight.

James
Zwitter


----------



## NealK

Holy shit man!, I never even thought that it could be counterfeit. Thank you very much for sharing the info. My melted one looks like it is definitely a fake. I have a new one on its way from ebay and the picture shows a genuine one and if that is not what I get I will be very pissed off. This one is coming from Darwin so at least communication will be easier if something goes wrong.
I think I will start a new thread with this information to warn people that they should check their SSR's.
Thanks again James, I really would not even have thought to check this.
Cheers
Neal


----------



## MastersBrewery

I use 2 40 amp SSRs both melted using 2400w each. Here's the tip: good heat sink, good thermal contact(quality thermal paste, clean flat contact surfaces, lapping maybe over the top but my next tear down.. ) add a fan. You will then have zero issues.


----------



## eucyblues

I have a Braudino kit - (Many thanks again for your massive effort Lael) and I've also recently become 'embedded' in Arduino stuff and was wondering where I can get a copy of the sketch for the Braudino - is it straight Ardbir or modified (for reasons best left unasked, I've yet to fire up my Braudino so I don''t know if it straight Ardbir or not ) 

Cheers


----------



## zwitter

Hi eucyblues

The code is "straight" Ardbir which was all originally based on Matho's system

When you go to load it there are some selections in the code you need to make as the basic code supports several versions of boards and display sizes and languages.

The instructions are in the users guide.

There is a youtube showing how it is all done. At this time the code the arduino ships with from Lael is as good as any later version for our purposes.

There is some mucking about with arduinos so unless you are pretty cluey with technical stuff it may be something you can put off for a rainy day? None of it is difficult but for those used to googling answers and downloading etc it is just trial and error.

James

Zwitter

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## nfragol

Hi guys,

Can someone tell me where I can get the grainfather version of Ardbir? I really need the pump on in manual mode when boiling.

Anyone with the grainfather, what sampletime and windowsize are you using ?

Thanks.


----------



## eucyblues

Thanks zwitter - much appreciated

When I say embedded in Arduino I really mean it (ask my wife- OMG!!) - for the last few months I've been eating, drinking and sleeping it even on sunny days (at least it feels like it ) So I should be OK

Thanks again

Eb


----------



## andreas_swe

Hey guys, this might be a bit off topic. But i'm looking for the sketchup files for oggies case, has anyone received it? I'm looking at doing my own take on a controller (to do more stuff than just making beer with the grainfather) and as i liked his design i wanted to build on it and modify it, and the STL files, while good for printing a copy, is not really that great for modification. 

I've tried contacting Oggie, but have not received any replies, hence my question in this thread.

Andreas


----------



## GibboQLD

andreas_swe said:


> Hey guys, this might be a bit off topic. But i'm looking for the sketchup files for oggies case, has anyone received it? I'm looking at doing my own take on a controller (to do more stuff than just making beer with the grainfather) and as i liked his design i wanted to build on it and modify it, and the STL files, while good for printing a copy, is not really that great for modification.


Haven't tried it myself, but there's apparently a plugin for SketchUp to import/export STL files...


----------



## andreas_swe

Hey GibboQLD,

I have imported the STL files into sketchup, but the problem with that is that the when the original model is exported to STL the whole geometry and "wireframe" is divided into many smaller faces and many times triangulated. The process is also an approximation meaning that the model has not clean polygons, and many more control points making editing (and selecting right stuff to edit), very time consuming and error prone.


----------



## terragady

Hi, are there any shared boards on OSH Park which I can order?


----------



## mariosab

Hello,
Thank you very much for all the work you have shared. Now I have my ArdBir working perfectly. I am very grateful.

I would ask if anyone has tried to plot the temperature signal through the USB port using free software Stamp Plot. I've used this program with other Arduino projects and it works perfectly and in a very high quatilty screen, but when I look at the ArdBir sketcht not dare touch it because it seems like a house of cards after a lot of optimizations.

Anyone is encouraged to try? At least to point the place in the sketch to insert the sub routine...
One of the several reference links could be: http://ianlangelectronic.webeden.co.uk/#/stamp-plot/4566546858 

Thanks and regards.
Please apologize my poor english


----------



## terragady

I do not think there is much space left for anything else, thats why they never implemented bluetooth etc. There is although a as I remember Taiwanease guy who did very similar software with this and bluetooth. You might check.

BTW here is my designed PCB for Arduino nano which is cheaper and works with one for 2$ from china. You can easily order one from elecrow or dirtypcb for cheap or I can send some as I ordered 10pcs and need only 1 

https://github.com/terragady/ArdBir


----------



## zwitter

Hi Mariosab 
Terragady is sort of correct but the final controller we supplied an Arduino Mega and it has plenty of spare room in it for additions. The original used an R3 and it does just fit the latest ArdBir but no extra space.

Why do you want to log the temp?
I guess you could and I guess could use bluetooth too. 
I actually enjoy sitting and watching. 

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## terragady

You can connect arduino to the computer and just extract temperature reading and plot it somehow, this is durable without any additional stuff.

There is also nice project out using Raspberry Pi (any version) CraftBeerPi which I would recommend to check for everyone. PCB can be easily adopted to Raspberry, just connect GPIOs and you do not need LCD because the control is through home website (wireless or wired).


----------



## mariosab

Hello Zwitter and Terragady.

I have an Arduino UNO R3 with the Brauduino Daniel Xan shield working very well. And I want to keep this version of Arduino because one of the goals is to reach this good behavior with such low resourses.

Now I want to plot as mashing temperature varies depending on the time while being controlled by our project. This would be very useful to see the AirBir control performance and for to adjust the PID controller.


I have used in other projects the free software "Stamp Plot" alowing to graph values on the screen of any computer from Arduino through the USB connector without additional hardware. 

The problem is our Arduino UNO already has a highly optimized sketch and it is necessary to know very well where to insert the required small subroutine.

This task could be more easy for the people who optimized our sketch.

If it is necessary a a little bit of free additional memory, could be erased languages and display formats that are not used.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Mariosab

Fortunately or unfortunately maybe is the ArdBir is the latest in the software for the Mathos controller and is written by a team in Italy. There are other versions and I guess as the sketch is freely available can be edited and optimised. 
We chose to use a bigger capacity Arduino to allow future options and at AUD17 is hardly a big expense. Cheaper if you order direct from China or buy bulk. Certainly a lot less than the time required for someone to optimise the software to add a feature.

Generally with open source it is those who can do and those that can't take what is offered.

Me I am a hardware person and generally not so good at the software side. I can write SW but often do not have the time to learn. I am about to try and learn more in the sketch language for Arduino as I want to play with load cells to combine into some brewing projects. I have 3 kids and a very busy household so time is limited and already have too many things vying for my time but I hope to encourage the kids to learn as well. Last weekend I had my 10 year old daughter using my 350A welder and she could do better welds than me! We built a trellis for growing passionfruit and hops.

I would encourage you to give it a go and edit the sketch then test each time you are successful save it and then repeat. If it does not work go back to the previous working one and try again.
Then share the results. As long as you give credit to the people who came up with the ideas and whose work you are building on then it is all good.

James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MaxN68

I tried to insert a routine for the check printing via PC and the problem is not only the space for the code. 
The routine generates a lag that makes necessary the use a rtc to properly manage the mash.


----------



## MastersBrewery

MaxN68 said:


> I tried to insert a routine for the check printing via PC and the problem is not only the space for the code.
> The routine generates a lag that makes necessary the use a rtc to properly manage the mash.


Guessing this was done with a Uno, some of us are using the mega bet it would work on that.


----------



## zwitter

You can buy an rtc= real time clock on fleabay for only a couple of bucks.

The ArdBir sw does have timing subroutine if you want to mod your addition.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MaxN68

ArdBir use system time of Arduino, if you want to use a rtc you need coding for rtc.

Using rtc you need a new pcb board and an Arduino Mega only for a graphical pid?

In the code you can find a graphical PID, temperature and pump BUT this is for helping the pid setting.
You need other code for additional program and library.

For activation you can find the variable on reserved debug section in the code.


----------



## terragady

or more simple, buy arduino nano (clone ~2$), temp probe (1$) connect it to computer and use as an additional thermometer and you can graph and sketch whatever you want 
you can add sd card and write data to it and read it later, you can add wifi as well and do it wireless. You can do it even without arduino using ESP8266 but this is a bit more work but you can have WiFi and even controller through website.


----------



## GibboQLD

Side thought -- if you have network connectivity (or the ability to add it), you could just push sensor values to a web API like Grovestreams or Plotly, which timestamps the data server-side and allows you to configure a graph that you could access from any internet-enabled device (tablet/phone/laptop/etc).

You might get a small lag of a few seconds due to server-side processing (depending on how you set it up), but you could theoretically keep an eye on your brew whenever you have to step away for a short time.

Here's what the Grovestreams one looked like when I used it for a DIY fridge controller (the graph is highly configurable) -- click for a bigger version.


----------



## terragady

there will be a lag for arduino and ardbir if you will do it that way. One more solution is to add ESP8266 directly to ardbir build and if its possible to connect same temp sensor to both, arduino and WiFi module, flash simple program to WiFi module and use thingsspeak to graph it or make http server on the module which is easy and possible. Actually this is a nice idea


----------



## mariosab

Thank you very much to Zwitter and to MaxN68, may be "the master" of this software version.
I understand the lag issue because the printing routine.

It is very easy to do it with another Arduino used only for this task.
But I still thinking in the beauty of to use as low resourses as possible with only one Arduino UNO.

The RTC option is cheap by itself, but leads to the change the shield and major changes in the sketch....

Really is not an easy task.


----------



## terragady

check this out, latest post http://vito.tw/ you just need ESP module in addition nothing else
and if you want only graph you can do what I was saying with also ESP and share temp sensor readings with it.


----------



## terragady

oh and something in addition to all,
check out the new ArdBir version by Dutch brewers here https://github.com/mbroek/MBSE-ArdRims
similar to ArdBir with something extra and new code


----------



## megabyte

Can anyone direct me to the pinout for the probe used in the Matho's Brauduino controller?

I used to wire them like this for my projects:




But I'm pretty sure it's wired up differently for the brauduino.


----------



## GibboQLD

Michael Burton said:


> Can anyone direct me to the pinout for the probe used in the Matho's Brauduino controller?


Don't have a Brauduino, but had a look at the build manual PDF I saved a while back -- does this help?:






Edit: This was bugging me so I  (around 1m34s) -- it looks like the Brauduino has V+ and Data swapped compared to how you wire them up:





You can see the pullup resistor on the yellow data line, the red wire for V+ and of course the black wire on the ground terminal. The terminal numbering on the socket should then be 1 = top, 2 = base/ground and 3 = middle.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Michael Burton said:


> Can anyone direct me to the pinout for the probe used in the Matho's Brauduino controller?
> 
> I used to wire them like this for my projects:
> Sensor Pinout.png
> 
> But I'm pretty sure it's wired up differently for the brauduino.


Specifically is this one of Laels kits? If so probably best to post this in the buy or build thread, specifically related to his kit as your question doesn't look to be brauduino generic if you get my drift.


----------



## zwitter

Hi
Regards pinouts.
I am almost certain that
tip is positive
the collar is signal
and the base is ground.

I found that the new pre-wired versions from the kit has a short threaded section so had to rewire my older ones and went and bought a plug wired it up and then found the plug I bought would not fit through the hole so had to chop it off and then redo it once it was fitted to the sandwich base of my pot. This was only a week back so I am almost certain the above is correct but will check tonight and correct if it is wrong.

Note that in the kit the socket has a resistor in line with the positive I think and that was so that when you plug the probe in it would not short the positive to ground and hence blow up the arduino or the probe. I am happy to say that little idea has saved soo many bits being blown up!

Zwitter
James




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## megabyte

GibboQLD said:


> Edit: This was bugging me so I  (around 1m34s) -- it looks like the Brauduino has V+ and Data swapped compared to how you wire them up:


Perfect, thanks!



MastersBrewery said:


> Specifically is this one of Laels kits? If so probably best to post this in the buy or build thread, specifically related to his kit as your question doesn't look to be brauduino generic if you get my drift.


Sorry, my bad yes it is specific to Lael's kit. I didn't think it fit into the "buy" thread and didn't notice the other build thread.



zwitter said:


> tip is positive
> the collar is signal
> and the base is ground.


Awesome, that backs up GibboQLD's advice so the world makes sense! Brew day is tomorrow, gotta get soldering!

EDIT: Success, it works! Thanks for all the advice guys.


----------



## zwitter

Pinouts for the temp probe.

Confirmed 
Tip is positive with the 470ohm resistor in line between the socket and the brauduino board. Red wire
The collar is the signal can be white or yellow
The base is ground almost always black wire

Confirmed by measuring one.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## nfragol

Hi guys,

Can someone be so kind as to share the Grainfather version of Open Ardbir?

Or at least share some fine tuned PID, windowsize, sampletime settings?

I've been struggling for a couple of weeks with no real success, I would deeply appreciate it.

Thanks.


----------



## zwitter

Hi nfragol

To my knowledge there is no grainfather version of ArdBir

The PID values are just like any vessel. There are guides on how to set and I think there are some values posted for others who are using the grainfather.

It is easy to adjust "on the fly". Can just use water and set the profile and sit back and enjoy a brew while watching the temps.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## sixfignig

I'm quite interested in eventually upgrading my rig to a 1V recirculation system with a PID/Matho style brew controller. I'm smart enough to not even consider 240v wiring myself, but don't think I know anyone that could help either.

If any kind soul in SE QLD would consider lending a hand at some point please send me a PM. Thought I'd post it up here instead of starting a new thread.


----------



## nfragol

Hi James,

There is a grainfather version of the Ardbir software but for some reason that's beyond me, they don't seem willing to share it with us.

The thing is that I have tried all the previous published settings but nothing seems to come close to a working solution. I constantly overshoot by 2 degrees Celsius.

One weird thing that's happening is if I change the temp probe calibration by 0.20 Celsius then the overshoot is even higher.
I don't know what to think.


----------



## NealK

I have the original mathos controller and I think I have killed my arduino uno. It will not load any sketches and when plugged in I only get the solid green light and not the flashing light that I used to get. I have ordered another arduino from ebay and I hope that somebody here can confirm for me that I have ordered the correct model for a straight swap (after I have loaded ardbir to the new board).
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162135730111?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=461106071583&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Cheers
Neal


----------



## zwitter

Hi NealK 
Yep that one is the correct one.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## NealK

It seems to work but my display is cooted. I am thinking that if I have to check all the soldering for a dry joint I may as well remove the 16x2 and replace it with a 20x4. I know the screen is probably not the problem but resoldering all the connections may fix the issue. Advice would be appreciated!


----------



## zwitter

Hi Nealk

Did you edit the options before compiling the file and downloading to the arduino?

You get to choose 2x16 or 4x20 and language and the board type etc.

What do you see on the display?

Mind you I swapped mine for a 4x20 and the difference is great. Note there are some bugs in the text that have been mentioned in the thread but not sure they have been fixed in the download file.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## NealK

Hi Zwitter
I get squares that kind of fade in and out and move around. I did check the settings before uploading the sketch but I am no expert at this. I know that I have had enough of a surge somewhere to kill the arduino, finding where the damage is is the challenge at the moment I think. I connected it to the brewery and set it to manual and the pump works fine. The heater didn't' but because I can't read the screen' I am assuming the temp was set at a lower temp than the water inside. It's good to hear that swapping the screen has been done before successfully. Where did you buy your screen?


----------



## zwitter

Hi NealK

Possible you blew the display too?
I got my display on ebay and one from RS components and more as well.

They all work except when you blow them up of course.

With boxes it is hard to say what the problem is. Could be the display could be the software. I would suggest checking the software while you wait for the display to arrive? Could be a connection too?

Hard to tell.
Where are you ?

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## dblunn

Just out of curiosity, how is the contrast setting on the screen? Could it be set too high?

Dave


----------



## OneEye

Ok Lads, a question.

I have a raspberrypi that is itching to be incorporated into the brewery somehow. Can matho's controller be easily adapted to incorporate the Pi so as to take advantage of something like craftbeerpi? Is it as easy as swapping out the arduino for the pi? Why can I not just leave well enough alone!


----------



## zwitter

OneEye said:


> Ok Lads, a question.
> 
> I have a raspberrypi that is itching to be incorporated into the brewery somehow. Can matho's controller be easily adapted to incorporate the Pi so as to take advantage of something like craftbeerpi? Is it as easy as swapping out the arduino for the pi? Why can I not just leave well enough alone!


In a word NO!

You could use a Pi in a brewpi setup to control the fermentation temp of a fridge.

I have several PIs and they are all on the home network and ported to the WEB. one is Brewpi connected to Arduino via Bluetooth, one is a power monitoring setup connected to several Arduinos via 900Mhz FM. they can be used as home video players and other brewing purposes but the Arduino is more than enough for the Matho's Brewmiser.

Find another use for the Pi there are lots.

zwitter
james


----------



## dca

OneEye - The answer to your question is basically 'yes'. Main difference in h/w looks like craftbeerpi does not use a dedicated local LCD display, but instead appears to use a PC/network connection. This, in turn, opens up a lot more feature opportunities. I like the 1,2, or 3 kettle setup, profile monitoring, and recipe import.

I refer you to the thread:
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/90757-craftbeerpi-brew-controller/

and the creator's h/w diagram:
https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi/blob/master/README.md

Dave A.


----------



## malt junkie

OneEye said:


> Ok Lads, a question.
> 
> I have a raspberrypi that is itching to be incorporated into the brewery somehow. Can matho's controller be easily adapted to incorporate the Pi so as to take advantage of something like craftbeerpi? Is it as easy as swapping out the arduino for the pi? Why can I not just leave well enough alone!


So far you have one yes and one no . 



dca said:


> OneEye - The answer to your question is basically 'yes'. Main difference in h/w looks like craftbeerpi does not use a dedicated local LCD display, but instead appears to use a PC/network connection. This, in turn, opens up a lot more feature opportunities. I like the 1,2, or 3 kettle setup, profile monitoring, and recipe import.
> 
> I refer you to the thread:
> http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/90757-craftbeerpi-brew-controller/
> 
> and the creator's h/w diagram:
> https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi/blob/master/README.md
> 
> Dave A.


I see this as building an entire new controller.

Yes someone has ported code for Ardbir for use with wifi and logging however it was a complete rewrite, and was written for the Adbir pin out not matho's, if your good with code I'd be happy to point you to the project.


----------



## zwitter

Hi dca
That is not incorporating into a Matho's controller.
That is just a controller based on a Pi.

If you want that then there are many alternatives to Arduino.
Why when Arduino is so cheap would you want to use anything else?

I rather like the BCS controllers but the Matho was designed at a price point low on the spectrum. It works. There are alternate SW that can be loaded into it to add wifi, bluetooth, extra elements, temp probes, logging menu storage and import etc electric valves etc

But the Matho's is what it is and does a great job at what it was designed to do.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## zwitter

Hi dca
That is not incorporating into a Matho's controller.
That is just a controller based on a Pi.

If you want that then there are many alternatives to Arduino.
Why when Arduino is so cheap would you want to use anything else?

I rather like the BCS controllers but the Matho was designed at a price point low on the spectrum. It works. There are alternate SW that can be loaded into it to add wifi, bluetooth, extra elements, temp probes, logging menu storage and import etc electric valves etc

But the Matho's is what it is and does a great job at what it was designed to do.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## malt junkie

Zwitter,

I know ya got mad skillz but come on how do you do a 4 hr delayed double post?????


----------



## lael

Take a look at PeteQ's post on the craftbeerpi thread. All you need is an adapter from arduino to RPI. Of course the LCD won't work or the buttons, and you may need to modify the pin out on the pi code. 

Pete mentioned the pump took some time to switch, but apart from that appears to work well with the functionality it has. At the moment that is more limited than ardBir, but setting steps etc via phone is easier apparently, which makes sense, though the 1-2 mins time cost to set up the controller has not yet led me to even save recipes. 

Pete's comment to me was something like: for $30 for the pi zero and the adapter, it was a cool change, just waiting on more development to increase functionality


----------



## nosco

Ive just scored a Matho's controller from AHB member. Pretty stocked but it will take a bit of time to get going. Its been set up to use a LBP but I want to use a KK MKII pump which I also scored for a bargain price.

The plug for the LBP is an RCA audio plug. What plug or what else would I have to do to be able to use the MKII (240v) pump with the controller? 

Edit: Will an RCA plug still work with the MKII pump?



CHeers.


----------



## nosco

So what exactly have i got here? The screen seems smaller to the other brauduino's im looking at on the net.


----------



## blotto

Looks like one of his original versions with the smaller screen. I have one myself. Should work fine and the latest firmware.


----------



## nosco

Do you know if I would be able to swap the pump plug to a 240v plug? or should I swap the plug on the pump to an RCA one?


----------



## 5teve

No it's not that simple. The controller will be switching 12Vdc for the LBP, you will need it switching 240Vac for the MkII pump.

You'll have to open up the controller and have a look inside at what is doing the switching. I'm guessing there's probably a 12Vdc relay now which you'll (via your licensed electrical contractor of course) need to swap out for a 240Vac relay to switch active for the new pump. 

Here is some sweet MS Paint art to roughly explain in pictures what I'm envisaging.





Edit - Of course you could also use the existing DC relay as an interposing relay to switch the coil on an AC relay.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Nosco

It looks like maybe one of Lael's first series. I bought one just like it.

There will be a relay on the board doing the switching. It will switch 12 or 240 volts. The wiring will need to be changed as Rca socket is not suitable for 240v. Can use IEC socket for the pump. The active wire is switched by the relay he neutral and earth just go straight from the power input to the pump output.

It is possible to upgrade to the bigger 4x20 display but takes some skill and soldering tools and then some computer and software skills.

These ones did not have the second power SSR circuit for extra heating circuit or the mod on the temp transducer to stop blowing them up if unplugged and replugged. And the snubber circuit was a little different and it may suffer the scramble on the display. But they can be upgraded to a point. Oh and probably had 10amp IEC sockets on the back not those lovely 20amp jobs on the latest ones

At one time I actually posted instructions on how to change the relay out for a small SSR for the pump switching.

This should support the 2.8 version but maybe not the other variants unless you swapped the arduino from a R3 to a Mega due to the memory space. The programming is described in the instruction manual and you need to choose the pcb, lcd, language etc before compiling and loading.

I did eventually change my rig to the later version controller and just now am installing a second element in the pot for faster heating and stop using the over the side element.

All the data is on AHB 

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## nosco

I am fairly comfortable with a soldering iron and ive flashed an stc1000 to "+" it but im sure its more involved than that. If i can get a mkII pump working with it ill be happy with that for now.

I was planning on getting the matho's to control a small hot water urn with a herms coil in it and use the element in my brew kettle to ramp.


----------



## malt junkie

Do Not Use An RCA plug for 240v!!

I have a few spare 20x4 LCDs PM me if you want one, cost of postage.
Before flashing there are instructions on what lines of code need to be commented, a PDF copy of which I posted a few pages back, follow those and all will be good.

Your kit looks a lot like the very original ones we got from matho, replacing the LCD will work but then will need a reflash of software to enable full use of the screen.

cheers 
Mike


----------



## MaxN68

You can use a speakon plug for 240v


----------



## nosco

malt junkie said:


> Do Not Use An RCA plug for 240v!!
> 
> cheers
> Mike


Thanks Mike. Duly noted.


----------



## nosco

Would this be the best thread to be reading to find out this kind of info?


----------



## nosco

I think i have buckleys of reading this whole thread so ill try and see if its worth my while trying to upgrade it and reading the thread. This what i have.


----------



## nosco

Changing the plug might not be so simple for me as the plug (on the right under the power supply) is hooked up to the 12v power supply. In the last picture the I am guessing the bit of wire is supposed to be a jumper?!?

The screen looks easy enough to take off so I might have a go at putting the biger one on but that would depend on if I can change the pump ppower or not.


----------



## nosco

So i am guessing this is the relay next the the pump terminals?


----------



## malt junkie

nosco said:


> Would this be the best thread to be reading to find out this kind of info?


Do you mean replacing the lcd? The reflashing? Or using the controller for herms? Or changing the pump power over?

For me, all of those things have been done by others using this controller. Their experiences would be more than relevant to what you are trying to achieve. Therefore your questions are relavent to the thread. But add to your reading and knowledge with the herms thread in gear and equipment, it has some really good system specific info.


----------



## malt junkie

Yeah thats the pump relay


----------



## nosco

malt junkie said:


> Do you mean replacing the lcd? The reflashing? Or using the controller for herms? Or changing the pump power over?


All of the above



malt junkie said:


> But add to your reading and knowledge with the herms thread in gear and equipment, it has some really good system specific info.


Ok Ill get back to you about this time next year 

Yep I knew it wasnt going to be a quick job. I guess Ill just use it as is for now with a LBP (not my ideal at all) and nut out what I can down the track. Changing the pump would be the first step though.


----------



## malt junkie

Note the box is still available from Jaycar if all the holes and hardware layout won't work for you


----------



## nosco

malt junkie said:


> Note the box is still available from Jaycar if all the holes and hardware layout won't work for you



Putting it in a new case would be a good move. Sean_0 (the guy I bought it from) may be an electrical engineer but he did a shit job of putting it together :unsure: 

_Is_ that peice of wire in the pic supposed to be a jumper?


----------



## malt junkie

If your talking the red wire on the Bonjuino then you'd have to ask Bonj (AHB user name) or just replace it with an Arduino Uno ( less than $10 I may even have a spare some where )


----------



## nosco

I have an uno that I used to flash the my stc


----------



## nosco

I think I got dudded


----------



## malt junkie

nosco said:


> I think I got dudded


PM sent


----------



## nosco

Thanks Malt Junkie for the support. The enormity of the task has finally dawned on me along with the missing plug screws, dodgey silicone and bend wire jumpers. Only day 2 and Im falling apart


----------



## NealK

Nosco, If you haven't already got this you should read this. This is the guide I used to build my first controller.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=66015


----------



## nosco

Thanks Neal! Working out the history of it all is part of the puzzle for as Its all new for me.

Cheers!


----------



## nosco

Dam I would have never found that necro thread.

[SIZE=11pt]http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-bonjuino-and-mathos-controller-30/page-5#entry1023959[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]More reading.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]OT Im 43 and I'm getting reading glasses soon for the first time. Its very exciting! Really it is very exciting! Will it help me read faster? I hope so.[/SIZE]


----------



## zwitter

Hey Nosco

A little respect please for the years of development across the globe for the great Mathos controller and beyond.

I personally know of people who put incredible amounts of time and money into developing this controller. Both hardware and software have come an amazing way for a privately developed product. This is still growing globally. There is talk of a new board to upgrade the latest version adding even more capabilities.

Even the very first one I bought just like the one you now have in your hands still works and is so much better than not having one.

Back then it was literally home brew controller. Everyone built their own so they were all different and the quality varied. That is why Lael took on the enormous job of the almost pre built controller and it is a very professional product but the price was significantly greater than the early ones. I would think Lael still has them available for sale.

So before slating the controller think about the incredible product you are now potentially part of and enjoy the process of making what you have into the best home brew controller there is!
One you have personally been involved in constructing and improving.

It was a very long wait for some between stumping up the wads of cash and the final delivery of the controller. A very worthwhile wait.

Zwitter
James

We are here to support all those who have these controllers but embrace the love brother, have a beer, read the posts and we will help you get the controller to where you want to take it.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## nosco

Sorry zwitter! and others...No disrespect meant at all.

I wasnt referring to the kits/projects/info themselves I was refering to my individual second hand purchase and on that note Ill blame my total lack of knowledge rather than the controller that I bought.

I am in awe of the skill and know how that goes into these (and other Arduino/other) projects. The fact that its open source, in this day and age...is ******* incredible! 

I am only just realising that some of the people posting on here are the ones who are creating/pioneering the stuff and giving advise for free.

No disrespect meant.


----------



## malt junkie

so in other news



has been ordered  , now to chase down the parts. That way when it arrives in around 8 weeks I should be able to knock it together. I'll be sending a couple to Lael so Zwitter you might again be a guinea pig, hope you haven't lost you knack with the iron mate. 

Mike


----------



## zwitter

Hi Malt junkie

Nah all good mate and I may have slightly more free time than Lael.

All good.

Zwitter
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Futur

Has anyone had any issues with the boil temperature setting to 110C during the ramp to boil, even though you've set it to something completely different in the settings? 

This is causing me problems because once I'm at the boil and lower the boil temp to start the boil timer which works, but the PWM doesn't kick in!

So PID continues to try and maintain the boil temperature which is ultimately useless and can't maintain a boil. If I then exit and go into setup and then resume the auto mode, PWM then kicks in with a reset boil timer.

This is giving me a bit of a headache, there is a workaround but it's quite annoying. Has anyone got any suggestions?


----------



## zwitter

Hi Futur

No but I would suggest you double check ALL the setup parameters.

And then post the details here so the version and the variants you have like language, LCD, PCB, type of settings in the PID, etc and then we can try to replicate what you are seeing

Cheers
James
Zwitter

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Futur

zwitter said:


> Hi Futur
> 
> No but I would suggest you double check ALL the setup parameters.
> 
> And then post the details here so the version and the variants you have like language, LCD, PCB, type of settings in the PID, etc and then we can try to replicate what you are seeing
> 
> Cheers
> James
> Zwitter
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Hi zwitter,

Thanks for offering to help! I have laels kit with ardbir 2.8.3 from github.

A complete list of settings are:
Heating Mode - Gas
P - 100
I - 30
D - 10
Window ms - 2000
Sample time - 1500
PWM - 85%
Calibration - 0.3C

Temperature - C
Sensor - Internal
Boiling - 97C (I've played with this and it's made no difference)
Pump Cycle - 5
Pump reset - 1
Pump premash - off
Pump on mash - on
Pump Mashout - on
During Boil - off
Pump Stop 100C
PID Pipe - active
Skip add - no
Skip remove - no
Skip iodine - yes
Whirlpool - Hot


I've since completely wiped the arduino mega EEPROM and reflashed with 2.8.3 and have the same issue. I've also tried the development RC of 2.8.3 on github and the boil temp still starts at 110C no matter what boil temp is configured in the setup.

There was another bloke with the same issue in the other thread here.

I'm just wondering why this is occurring for me on a completely fresh install of ardbir. Unless it's a feature? I'm keen to try older versions of ardbir, however I can't find them anywhere.

I'm also curious as to why ardbir uses PID for the ramp to boil and doesn't just use a hard temperature set point and run full power? Seems like a lot of time is wasted during the ramp to boil trying to make it to the last few degrees unnecessarily.


----------



## zwitter

Hi futur

Lael's kit is electric NOT gas. Change that to electric and then set all parameters again.

Then give it a try

James 
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MaxN68

Futur said:


> ....
> I'm also curious as to why ardbir uses PID for the ramp to boil and doesn't just use a hard temperature set point and run full power? Seems like a lot of time is wasted during the ramp to boil trying to make it to the last few degrees unnecessarily.


Ardbir use the PID only during the mash.
Until reaching the boiling point the power are 100% and then is maintained through a PWM directly adjustable


----------



## Futur

zwitter said:


> Hi futur
> 
> Lael's kit is electric NOT gas. Change that to electric and then set all parameters again.
> 
> Then give it a try
> 
> James
> Zwitter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Well this is embarrassing - I never had it set to gas, I typed that by accident. If it was set to gas it would have never worked in the first place.

I still don't know what the issue is unfortunately.



MaxN68 said:


> Ardbir use the PID only during the mash.
> Until reaching the boiling point the power are 100% and then is maintained through a PWM directly adjustable


Are you sure about that? The last few degrees when ramping to the boil temperature are painfully slow and I can see the element being switched on and off using PID!


----------



## zwitter

Hi Futur

Ok
I think you need to adjust your P, I & D values in setup.

There are several brief guides to help set the values. They change the speed to reach the temp and by how much you will over shoot by and the hysteresis or how soon it heats again..

I mess with mine often. In fact maybe Sunday arvo or monday as have just added a second element. 2400watts plus another 2400watts = big heat!

The values will vary for every different system. The element size, pot size, temp sensor placement, pump placement and volume etc, the mash pipe position and size etc.

You can sort of edit them on the fly. I usually use water and change the values and target temp and just keep playing to get it to reach target with minimum time and small overshoot.
'
James 
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## MaxN68

Futur said:


> Are you sure about that? The last few degrees when ramping to the boil temperature are painfully slow and I can see the element being switched on and off using PID!


I'm sure


----------



## Fatamorgana

Im seling one controller who is just assembled never used. Contact med if interested


----------



## MitchD

MaxN68 said:


> I'm sure


Depends on the software version actually. Previous versions did use pid to reach boil then switch over to pwm to maintain. There may be a setting such as "use pid in boil" or you may need to update to a more recent version.


----------



## ken_gilchrist

Hey guys, I'm having a small problem with my controller and I have no idea why. When I fill my Grainfather up with my strike water and set all the automation settings, I then start the brewing process; well my controller starts beeping to say that I am at my strike temp even if it is only at 35 deg (I normally set it for 65). I just let keep beeping until it actually reaches temp then continue but it is a little odd and annoying that it does the "double beep" up until I hit continue button.

Anyone have any ideas what it might be?


----------



## grimpanda

Hey y'all.

I've got an original Matho's/Lael's controller that has been running great with the original Brauduino software, and thought I would upgrade to ArdBir take advantage of the newer features like delayed start. 

I've just flashed my Uno to ArdBir 2.8.3 but am having issues on the Setup menu. When cycling through the PID settings my display only shows a faded barely readable text once I scroll past the first option (which is Constant kP)... then it comes good again when I reach the 'Heat in Boil' setting. Obviously not being able to see and set the kI and kD settings presents a problem...

I correctly set the PCB type (Brauduino Original/Matho's kit), LCD size (16x2) and language (English) prior to uploading 2.8.3.

I'm thinking that upgrading to a 4x20 LCD might solve the problem. Does anyone know which module I need?


----------



## Neolithic

Hi guys built my second controller tonight. Not done the 240v wiring side yet.

This one has a problem. When you power up from usb it boots into ardbir etc then the screen contrast starts to fade out and the screen goes blank. The mega leds also stop so its as if the power is fading out. Mega is ok I tried it in my other controller.

Could this be a screen or a board problem? Is the screen changeable?

Cheers 

Matt


----------



## grimpanda

Unless something has changed since I built mine, you should have a 12v power supply for the controller.

I'm guessing 5v from the USB isn't supplying enough juice.


----------



## Fatamorgana

Hello my friends from down under.

I seem to have a problem with my brauduino, I think its the latest version, the arduino board is this type: "Board model Mega 2560 R3", and the Brauduino board is "braduino sparky Shiled V. 1.0" Its not been flashed or upgraded on some point

The problem is that my Pump Switch on the board is always in state "1", its always connected, so as soon as I power up my Brauduino the pump starts to run, when I go in manual mode and tries to manipulate the pump by giving command start pump nothing happens with the switch (besides the light go green and I can hear a relay that makes a sound, its just the same, state "1" (connected) all the time. Is there something I can do, or is the board somehow broken? The rest of the Brauduino works great.

Desperate need of help since I have fallen in love with this great little piece wich have taken me through soon my #100 brew <3


----------



## pmp3

Hi, does the PCB attachment "View attachment Birraduino-AIO-2.zip" (page 45 # 884) compatible with "Version 2.8.3-RC"?

Danielxan, MaxN68 and all who contributed to the creation and development of this project, accept my thanks 
Regards
Piotr


----------



## Meddo

Hey @zwitter , I've got what appears to be a serious problem with the arduino in my kit build at the moment, which until yesterday had been running well for 18 months. Basically it turned itself off in the middle of a cleaning cycle. Checked all the HV side and no dramas there so pulled the LV side out and hooked it up to the PC via USB power.

So when I plug in the USB and power up the board I get a blue screen for about five seconds, then the area circled in the photo below gets bloody hot and the whole thing shuts down. This only occurs with the shield and display attached (I haven't yet tested it with shield and no display) - if it's only the arduino plugged into the PC it stays cool and powered on indefinitely. I can't tell which specific component is heating up because it only happens when that side of the board is facing the shield.

Do you have any ideas what might be going on, or pointers for further testing to identify the problem?

Thanks,


----------



## DTrain123

That black chip that you've circled is a voltage regulator. I'm guessing that's getting hot because there is too much current being drawn through it.

If it only happens when the shield is attached, then it's probably because something on the shield is drawing too much current. Maybe something has short circuited somewhere.

Edit: That green chip that is marked 5 X 5 where the X is a weird squiggle thing, is actually a resettable fuse. That's supposed to break the circuit when you draw more than 500mA through it. Once it cools down then it reconnects the circuit again. That fuse is probably saving you from having magic smoke come out of the board somewhere else.


----------



## Meddo

DTrain123 said:


> That black chip that you've circled is a voltage regulator. I'm guessing that's getting hot because there is too much current being drawn through it.
> 
> If it only happens when the shield is attached, then it's probably because something on the shield is drawing too much current. Maybe something has short circuited somewhere.
> 
> Edit: That green chip that is marked 5 X 5 where the X is a weird squiggle thing, is actually a resettable fuse. That's supposed to break the circuit when you draw more than 500mA through it. Once it cools down then it reconnects the circuit again. That fuse is probably saving you from having magic smoke come out of the board somewhere else.



Thanks DTrain, that's basically been my thinking re a short-circuit on the shield - that info about the fuse pretty much confirms it. I had a quick look at the shield yesterday and nothing jumped out but I'll take the display panel off this afternoon and go over it properly.


----------



## Ferg

Not sure if this is the right thread or not but here goes:

I've got one of the Lael controllers and have been using it frequently for years now. A few niggles but that's more because I haven't fine tuned it enough (taking a long time to get the last couple of degrees etc.). I was wondering in the passing years if the software had been updated? It would be nice to be able to pre program whirlpool temps and times for some of the big Hoppy neipas. From memory the whirlpool timer only goes up to 10 minutes.

Does anyone know if anything has been updated or if there are any new features?

Cheers, Fergal.


----------



## pbezza

Brewmaniacex is a fork of this controller but runs off an esp8266. It has the same LCD and menu structure and also has a web interface. It has a few extra features and the project is still active. Hit up the developer to add or tweak features. https://github.com/vitotai/BrewManiacEsp8266


----------



## nzbrad

Hey guys,
Just finished my Ardbir box. Thanks to everyone for all the great info. I ordered the PCBs from pcbway, by terragedy ones, cheers for making them available.

When I put power on it works fine, then after around 10 seconds the screen fills with white squares.
If I’m i get to manual mode quick enough, and use the pump and Heat buttons the corresponding ssr works as it should, even though the screen is all whacked. I played around with the contrast pot and if I tone it down it works for longer but will eventually loose parts of characters and become unreadable. Also when I dial the contrast down the top left 3rd of the screen is a lot dimmer than the rest.
I’ve played around with the power supply voltage and it doesn’t seem to change anything... 
any ideas? I’m thinking possibly/hopefully just a defective screen. All components bought off Ali express.


----------



## pbezza

nzbrad said:


> Hey guys,
> Just finished my Ardbir box. Thanks to everyone for all the great info. I ordered the PCBs from pcbway, by terragedy ones, cheers for making them available.
> 
> When I put power on it works fine, then after around 10 seconds the screen fills with white squares.
> If I’m i get to manual mode quick enough, and use the pump and Heat buttons the corresponding ssr works as it should, even though the screen is all whacked. I played around with the contrast pot and if I tone it down it works for longer but will eventually loose parts of characters and become unreadable. Also when I dial the contrast down the top left 3rd of the screen is a lot dimmer than the rest.
> I’ve played around with the power supply voltage and it doesn’t seem to change anything...
> any ideas? I’m thinking possibly/hopefully just a defective screen. All components bought off Ali express.


Is your hand or any other object resting against the LCD pin solder points whilst it is running?


----------



## nzbrad

Hey mate, nope I checked everything and all clear. Also thought it might be due to some interference issue so moved the SSR away.
Anyways, I changed the LCD for a 2x16 one and reloaded the software. Seems to be working fine with that display so im picking the old one was dodgy. I'm a big fan of aliexpress but I think this time I got what I payed for!
Thinking I might stick with the smaller display for now. Now onto finishing my keggle setup.


----------



## nzbrad

Well it was working. But now when i turn on the temp says 0.0c. When I plug the thermometer in it goes straight to 84.3c and doesn't respond at all to temp changes. When I unplug the thermometer it remains at 84.3c.
I've reloaded software, and checked soldering on plug. Any ideas??
I went from super stoked with this thing to starting to feel frustrated, would be awsome to get it going properly.


----------



## nzbrad

Just an update, I followed these instructions https://randomnerdtutorials.com/guide-for-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-with-arduino/ but changed to read from pin D7 on the arduino to test the DS18B20.
Serial monitor works fine and displays the current temperature on my computer monitor.
Anyone think it could be another dodgy display? It works normal apart from the unresponsive and high temp.


----------



## real_beer

nzbrad said:


> Well it was working. But now when i turn on the temp says 0.0c. When I plug the thermometer in it goes straight to 84.3c and doesn't respond at all to temp changes. When I unplug the thermometer it remains at 84.3c.
> I've reloaded software, and checked soldering on plug. Any ideas??
> I went from super stoked with this thing to starting to feel frustrated, would be awsome to get it going properly.


When your trying to


nzbrad said:


> Just an update, I followed these instructions https://randomnerdtutorials.com/guide-for-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-with-arduino/ but changed to read from pin D7 on the arduino to test the DS18B20.
> Serial monitor works fine and displays the current temperature on my computer monitor.
> Anyone think it could be another dodgy display? It works normal apart from the unresponsive and high temp.


When you've been doing these tests with the serial monitor that show the probe works okay on your computer, is it with the probe plugged into its socket, or directly connected to the board?
If you've been connecting it directly to the board, go to your audio plug & switch the two wires soldered to the middle & tip of the audio plug around.

I had similar issues with Lael's Controller because I couldn't use his temp probe through the bottom of my pot because the base was to thick for the thread to reach, so I had to make my own. I think Lael's probe was wired differently to other instructions I initially followed on the internet but when I switched the wires around all my problems disappeared. https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/the-brauduino-matho’s-controller-build-advice-question-thread.88675/page-41#post-1523159

With these controllers nearly every question has been answered already, you might have to check 5 or 6 different threads, which I know takes a lot of effort, but the problem you face is that although a lot of people have solved the same problems you have now, unless they've done it very recently they've usually forgotten the path they took to do it 

All the new boards and the enhancements they have will probably also be unfamiliar to the majority of builders who have now just been happily using the one they built for a long time now.

There is a post in one of the threads that lists all the various threads about the controllers together in one spot ............. but I can't remember where  Hope this helps & good luck. Also, a lot people who used to post most of the information about this topic now seem to have had enough or moved on to other interests.


----------



## nzbrad

Real_Beer, thanks for that really helpful post. When I ran the test with the serial monitor it was with the probe plugged into its socket. Tomorrow I will try switching the two wires around for the temp probe. Fingers crossed!
I have a suspicion that maybe something is going on with my circuit causing the LCD to go crazy, considering the 20x4 display shat itself, and the current 16x2 one seemed to be working normally for the first half our or so.

And failing that I will have a real good look through all the boards and see if i can find someone with the same problem. 
I'm thinking I might just hook up a STC until I can get this sorted.. Or I could just keep using my inlaws grainfather... But it's way more fun making beer on a home made setup .


----------



## real_beer

nzbrad said:


> Real_Beer, thanks for that really helpful post. When I ran the test with the serial monitor it was with the probe plugged into its socket. Tomorrow I will try switching the two wires around for the temp probe. Fingers crossed!
> I have a suspicion that maybe something is going on with my circuit causing the LCD to go crazy, considering the 20x4 display shat itself, and the current 16x2 one seemed to be working normally for the first half our or so.
> 
> And failing that I will have a real good look through all the boards and see if i can find someone with the same problem.
> I'm thinking I might just hook up a STC until I can get this sorted.. Or I could just keep using my inlaws grainfather... But it's way more fun making beer on a home made setup .


nzbrad, I think by what you just said you've probably got the probe wired up properly already. I see the BrewManiacEx can cater for monitoring multiple temperature probes so maybe there's a software setting that needs setting differently, but I'm just guessing. The problem with 99% of these problems is they're usually really quick fixes but can take weeks to track down even when the answers out on the internet.

I'm only competent with Matho's early controller & Lael's final one so I'm limited in helping you. A few pics of the system & wiring would help. If the LCD wasn't working at all I'd think it might be a dud, but to me it seems like your wiring or a problem on the board is the most likely cause. Try to keep your wires running DC as much as possible to one side of the box, and wires running AC to the other. I used to get screen scramble raise its head fairly frequently, even with all the wiring mods and extra resistor additions, until I saw it explained as above. I'd cast the widest net as possible on as many brewing forums around the world until you hit one in a country that the members are starting to embrace DIY automation using BrewManiacEx. It's probably getting harder as the Grainfather & Bewzilla style machines are such great value for money now. To all intents and purposes this thread & topic seems to have run its course here and is virtually dead. It sure was exciting and great fun to be part of when it was alive and leading the world on the topic.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Nzbrad

As one of the designers for the Lael controller I can help you. But you did things ass about. Boards from pcbway!
Why did you not just buy one from Lael?

There were changes made along the way.

Including a resistor inline with the temp sensor to stop it blowing up when plugged and unplugged when the unit was switched on.

Photos may be a starting point.
What software are you running?
Did you edit the software to set the display, language, board type etc before compiling and loading?

James
Zwitter


----------



## buckerooni

after 50+ brews with my trusty Brauduino, was doing a test run with my new Coolossus counterflow chiller and some PBW ramping to 80c and looked around and instead of seeing a blue backlight I saw an orange flame! shiiiiiite! switched off the 2 x 20amp plugs. Checked the temp of the top of the unit after 3 mins, was sitting at 60c. Gonna wait till it cools down before taking a look inside. Upside is I didn't have 18kg of grain in there at the time I guess....


----------



## zwitter

Bugger!


----------



## buckerooni

blue wire from the power input, got a sparky mate who will look into this for me, hopefully the rest of the unit is still OK.


----------



## MaxN68

Hi everyone, it's been a long time since I started working for ArdBir, and after the break-up of the working group I never even craft beer. Are there any news? What firmware version are you using?


----------



## djar007

Hi Max, I am not aware of any updates to the firmware since the last ardbir one. I am still using the last one of those quite successfully. I think since the guys went to the smartpid unit this project finished as far as I know. And buckerooni, I posted on the merri mashers page in response to you. I can help if you like but I am no sparkie.

edit:Looks like there has been a little progress I didnt see.


----------



## MaxN68

Smartpid is a personal project by Davide.


----------



## MaxN68

In my archives I have the version 2.8.4 never published with some predetermined mash profiles and some bugs correction on cooling and whirlpool process and a first partial 3.0.0 rewriting version.


----------



## stux

Does anyone have the manual package that’s always referred to fro the GitHubs via a broken Dropbox link?


----------



## MaxN68

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r5j37dqm6ctuap0/AACxVUDE1soCFBUrDzwjj0exa?dl=0


stux said:


> Does anyone have the manual package that’s always referred to fro the GitHubs via a broken Dropbox link?


----------



## djar007

MaxN68 said:


> In my archives I have the version 2.8.4 never published with some predetermined mash profiles and some bugs correction on cooling and whirlpool process and a first partial 3.0.0 rewriting version.


I would really like to try that code max! Do you have a link to it?


----------

