# Brewtech SS fermenting vessels discussion thread



## Bribie G

The Brewtech thread in "retailers" was turning into a discussion thread so I have started a fanboi column here, to free up the other thread for Full Pint, Newera etc for retail / sales / orders / deliveries issues.

Now the product is in active use, here's a thread for tips n tricks, problems if any, photos, etc.

ed: Discussion was also split between the two other threads, for example Pete having to post in two threads re passivation, so this will free up the dedicated Newera thread as well.


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## Bribie G

Yay.. now we're talking, now we're definitely bloody well talking. 

I can ferment a Full batch lager in the BrewBucket and there's still room in the Kegmate for a cornie with a cut down dip tube, to ferment a 15 L batch of lager for the forthcoming comps. Doing two lager brews today. :beerbang:


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## Spiesy

Bribie G said:


> The Brewtech thread in "retailers" was turning into a discussion thread so I have started a fanboi column here, to free up the other thread for Full Pint, Newera etc for retail / sales / orders / deliveries issues.


Was kind of hoping our thread would open up for discussion.


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## mckenry

Spiesy said:


> Was kind of hoping our thread would open up for discussion.


As much as I hate multiple places for the same kinds of info, Bribie is right. This one will be about the gear, hence in gear and equip, whereas the other one is in retail shop, so discussion should be limited to retail issues / releases etc. There is nothing wrong with a bit of cross info (its going to happen anyway, but I believe retailers cant spruik in these threads?)
So, I hear you, but I like the tips tricks etc here


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## mckenry

Just another thread I have to subscribe to...


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## SmallFry

How did you end up doing your initial passivation, Bribie?

Did you just spray on the concentrated Starsan?


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## Bribie G

Yes. I washed the BB with Selly's sugar soap first, that solution ran off and I was expecting the Starsan to run off as well so I might need to fill the vessel.

However the solution (15 ml in one of those little $4 spray bottles from the hardware shop) clung to the surface when I misted it, so I gave it about four treatments over half an hour, and I let it sun dry. However it's turned out streaky so I'll rinse off the outside and buff it up, inside no problem.


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## TidalPete

It's worth sacrificing a couple of hundred ml of Starsan or whatever to protect your $250 investment. :beerbang:

I've been experimenting with phos acid (I've got heaps of the stuff but no Starsan) & am passivating my bucket in a plastic garbage bin containing 32-litres of 40ml Phos\4.0 litres water at the recommended temps for 20 minutes or so.
Seems to work ok as you can notice a slight change of colour after the stainless has dried & slight surface rust marks on the scrap SS have disappeared.


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## Bribie G

I'd say the Starsan spray would have the same effect as filling the BB, the metal surface doesn't know whether the film on its surface is a film or part of a larger body. Actually Palmer, in How to Brew recommends using Bar Keepers Friend then rinsing and drying thoroughly. :unsure: :unsure:

Other sources say to thoroughly clean the surface to bare metal (hence the trisodium phosphate), rinse and dry and the surface will passivate itself automatically on contact with oxygen.

Citric acid will also work, but I used all mine last night renovating the urn.

Hey how about a new thread on passivating SS h34r: h34r:


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## Bribie G

After more research, the following seems to be the accepted facts:

Stainless steel will passivate itself in the presence of oxygen

It will *not *do so if it's not bare metal: i.e some grease or other substance on the surface that will prevent the layer of chromium dioxide developing.

Hence the need to take the BrewBucket back to bare metal, recommended usage of Trisodium Phosphate to do this.

The use of acids is to remove any iron traces from welding or other industrial processes. Industrially they use nitric acid, but citric acid (and presumably phosphoric acid which is and active ingredient in Starsan) can also work.

The UK Stainless Steel Institute stresses that this is NOT passivation per se, although it's often described as such: it is just cleaning the ss manufactured object up further so it can passivate itself, as Pete found happened with his scrap.

I'm not confident that the sugar soap did the job properly so I'll grab some Trisodium Phosphate from Masters tomorrow and use that to rewash the bucket, dry thoroughly and the bucket should passivate itself in the presence of oxygen.


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## TidalPete

Thanks for all your research Bribie. Much appreciated.
I'll probably re-passivate redo the lid once I get my TIG welding done.


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## Natdene

So will this work to passivate?


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## Maheel

why do you need to passivate it ?


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## mckenry

Here's my first question re conicals. After doing a bit of reading on the US forums I _think_ I understand about yeast dumping.

I want to do everything in a single vessel, so I think I can do a secondary in the one vessel if my understanding is right.

1. Ferment to terminal gravity
2. Dump trub, which is a bit darker than th eyeast. (Dont know how I'm going to get that right first time, but meh, trial and error)
3. Collect yeast into a sanitised container until beer starts to run out
4. Add any dry hops and brew dependant, leave for x days
5. Crash chill
6. Remove beer via racking arm

What I am a bit confused about is, why dump yeast at FG if you have a racking arm anyway? Wouldnt you just be able to do everything until kegging day, dump trub, followed by yeast then beer through racking arm?


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## Bribie G

I'd agree with your thoughts.

Say for an ale, the first lot of shyte into the cone will be trub: some hot break and the cold break. I find that the cold break tends to get "pickled" and drops out fairly soon. So you can rotate the racking arm down into the cone, run off much of the break, thus getting rid of most of that before FG, then rotate back up into the beer.

Then during fermentation over the next few days, yeast will rain down into the cone, filling it up.

However at this point, (edit: particularly if doing a lager) if you wish to collect the yeast for subsequent brews, you need to decide whether you are going collect the yeast at FG then proceed to cold crashing, or cold crash and collect the yeast at the end of lagering or cold conditioning.

If kegging straight away without saving yeast, you can just position racking arm, hopefully, above yeast cake level and go about your business then dispose of the yeast.

However if you want to harvest yeast it's probably the best time to do so, because if you leave the yeast there then crash chill, you could end up with shocked yeast and other issues.

So if cold crashing and harvesting, I'd rotate down into the yeast cake at FG before chilling, then draw off yeast for reculturing, then lager the beer.

I'd speculate that if you don't have the long racking arm then, if you have disposed of the trub earlier, then the short racking arm as supplied should only be picking up yeast. Any remaining trub would be sitting in the bottom of the cone out of the reach of the racking arm.


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## CrookedFingers

That logic sounds ok to me mckenry.
I was always under the impression that the conical base already reduces the surface contact with the yeast, I do suppose the option to dump it all together when ever you like is good. Who doesn't love options !?!?

My query is, say i bought a thermowell for my brew bucket….How high up the fermenter is optimal ? I was going to put it just below the etched SS logo.
….sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, I have read most of these threads and not seen it……...

Looking forward to a good idea or two !
CF


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## Spiesy

CrookedFingers said:


> How high up the fermenter is optimal ? I was going to put it just below the etched SS logo.


Depends on the length of your thermowell.

Ideally you'd like the bottom of your thermowell smack-bang in the middle of your fermenting wort, or as near to.
I'd be going in from the top, if your thermowell allows.

Not that I'm advocating drilling holes in your BrewBucket, by any means...


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## Camo6

TidalPete said:


> Thanks for all your research Bribie. Much appreciated.
> I'll probably re-passivate redo the lid once I get my TIG welding done.


Ooh ooh, did I miss something. Whatcha doing to the lid TP?

Starting to wish I'd just paid for the freight on mine. Me want shiny _now._


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## CrookedFingers

Thanks Spiesy,
Lower down sounds like a good place, right near the action !
To be honest I was going to just middle it, using the logic that it could only be better than attaching it to the outside. 


CF


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## bradmelb

Shiny, shiny bucket arrived yesterday. Its christmas in july!


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## alcoadam

Has anyone sized up the BB in regards to fitting into a bar fridge?

I'm sure there's a few out there like me that have a bar fridge modified which comfortably holds the plastic fermenter, though fitting the brew bucket looks a close call...


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## Natdene

Natdene said:


> So will this work to passivate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg


 bump - anyone as I want to clean mine tonight.


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## sluggerdog

alcoadam said:


> Has anyone sized up the BB in regards to fitting into a bar fridge?
> 
> I'm sure there's a few out there like me that have a bar fridge modified which comfortably holds the plastic fermenter, though fitting the brew bucket looks a close call...


Check Bribie's post in this thread, the second one. Looks like a bar fridge to me. Fits nicely too.


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## mckenry

Bribie G said:


> I'd agree with your thoughts.
> 
> Say for an ale, the first lot of shyte into the cone will be trub: some hot break and the cold break. I find that the cold break tends to get "pickled" and drops out fairly soon. So you can rotate the racking arm down into the cone, run off much of the break, thus getting rid of most of that before FG, then rotate back up into the beer.
> 
> Then during fermentation over the next few days, yeast will rain down into the cone, filling it up.
> 
> However at this point, (edit: particularly if doing a lager) if you wish to collect the yeast for subsequent brews, you need to decide whether you are going collect the yeast at FG then proceed to cold crashing, or cold crash and collect the yeast at the end of lagering or cold conditioning.
> 
> If kegging straight away without saving yeast, you can just position racking arm, hopefully, above yeast cake level and go about your business then dispose of the yeast.
> 
> However if you want to harvest yeast it's probably the best time to do so, because if you leave the yeast there then crash chill, you could end up with shocked yeast and other issues.
> 
> So if cold crashing and harvesting, I'd rotate down into the yeast cake at FG before chilling, then draw off yeast for reculturing, then lager the beer.
> 
> I'd speculate that if you don't have the long racking arm then, if you have disposed of the trub earlier, then the short racking arm as supplied should only be picking up yeast. Any remaining trub would be sitting in the bottom of the cone out of the reach of the racking arm.


Ah, BribieG - thanks for your thought, but I am getting the 17 gal chronical. I will therefore have 2 removal points. I think you answered my question assuming I am getting a brew bucket.
So, the racking arm sits up fairly high and the yeast dump valve is at the very bottom.
So, if you read my question again, with that in mind, why would I dump yeast early as I can take the beer off without disturbing the yeast at all, or dump the yeast out, crash chill etc.
Just throwing up ideas - I guess after FG is reached that is the best time to harvest yeast? Maybe thats the only reason, with option to remove beer without harvesting if you like?


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## alcoadam

sluggerdog said:


> Check Bribie's post in this thread, the second one. Looks like a bar fridge to me. Fits nicely too.


Thanks mate, but that's a kegerator...lots of room without the compressor hump.


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## TidalPete

Camo6 said:


> ​
> 
> Ooh ooh, did I miss something. Whatcha doing to the lid TP?


Have drilled a hole dead centre in the lid to accommodate a home-made thermowell (half a corny dip tube). Probe should sit in the middle of a 22-litre wort.
Have also enlarged the existing hole at the edge to take a 25mm length of ss tube from a 50-litre keg which should make for better blow-off capabilities since the BB is only 26.3 litres capacity.

Natdene --- What your pic shows seems to be less than half the strength of Starsan so to be safe in regards to the Brew Bucket instructions (one ounce Starsan per gallon water --- US measurements) I'd at least double the amount per litre if you plan to immerse.

Maheel --- I'd hazard a guess that part of the reason these products are cheaper than other similar gear is because they haven't been finished off properly to cut costs. E.g. cutting compound, coolant residue, etc still needs to be cleaned off by the customer. 

Alcoadam --- Bribie's kegerator has more room than a normal bar fridge as it's custom built to fit 3 x corny's or 1 x 50-litre keg & that's probably why his BB fits inside with room to spare.
Brew Bucket fits inside my old bar fridge but mind you I've folded the freezer compartment back to make room for a 30-litre fermenter. You might be ok height-wise as some bar fridges are slightly bigger than others.
Brew Bucket is 530mm high X 337mm dia at its widest point & approx. 255mm at the bottom because of the taper.

Hope all this helps someone?




For anyone interested, here's the Brew Bucket\Conical Preparation & Cleaning Instructions for a bit of a read. 

View attachment cleaning_instructions__for_brew_bucket_and_conical.pdf


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## SnakeDoctor

Bribie G said:


> Yes. I washed the BB with Selly's sugar soap first, that solution ran off and I was expecting the Starsan to run off as well so I might need to fill the vessel.


This might be a dumb question - but why did you use Selleys Sugar Soap? Did you use the powder or the liquid? 

In the SDS it doesn't appear to be the recommended Tri-Sodium Phosphate? 

EDIT: Just read your next posts about not being sure of it doing the job - let us know how you go at Masters - I couldn't find any TSP cleaner.


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## SnakeDoctor

http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=309&SZIDX=0&CCODE=41200&QOH=32&CATID=227&CLN=1&pageCount=2


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## TidalPete

'Diggers' brand sugar soap doesn't contain TSP either but I had it on hand in liquid form & it did the job.
Just my little contribution to (hopefully) saving the Barrier Reef.


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## Bribie G

Selleys sugar soap is supposed to contain TSP. However I'm off to Masters shortly to see if I can get the pure stuff in the paint dept.


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## SnakeDoctor

Bribie G said:


> Selleys sugar soap is supposed to contain TSP. However I'm off to Masters shortly to see if I can get the pure stuff in the paint dept.


SDS attached - looks like it was substituted out for other (not as effective) chemicals for environmental or other reasons.

View attachment LIQUID_SUGAR_SOAP-AUS_SDS.PDF


View attachment SUGAR_SOAP_POWDER-AUS_SDS.PDF


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## alcoadam

Thanks Pete, that's just the info I was looking for. I've done the same to my bar fridge. I noticed the BB gets narrower at the bottom but the specs couldn't be found. 

Thanks again


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## Bribie G

SnakeDoctor said:


> SDS attached - looks like it was substituted out for other (not as effective) chemicals for environmental or other reasons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LIQUID_SUGAR_SOAP-AUS_SDS.PDF
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SUGAR_SOAP_POWDER-AUS_SDS.PDF


Sodium Tripolyphosphate is an alternative name for Sodium Triphosphate.


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## Natdene

Thanks Tidal Pete. Now for the next question after cleaning which one of the follow are you guys doing
1.spraying with starsan the inside/outside with the recommended 1oz/gallon
2. filling the inside (which will use a shed load of starsan) and spraying the outside
3. filling a bucket with the starsan and putting the the BB and lid in, fully immersed (which will use even more than a shed load of starsan)


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## mje1980

Lot of work for a fermentor, a flash one at that


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## Spiesy

mje1980 said:


> Lot of work for a fermentor, a flash one at that


You don't have to do it. But if you want your modest investment to last you as long as possible, it is strongly recommended.


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## mje1980

I'm just kidding mate, it's not that hard and it's such a nice bit of gear I'd be doing the same


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## SnakeDoctor

Bribie G said:


> Sodium Tripolyphosphate is an alternative name for Sodium Triphosphate.


That's right but neither of those two [Na5P3O10] are Trisodium phosphate [Na3PO4], unless I'm horribly mistaken.

How'd you go at Masters? Only source for TSP that I can find in Aust is http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=309&SZIDX=0&CCODE=41200&QOH=32&CATID=227&CLN=1&pageCount=2 but i've found Challenge does one: 


http://www.challengechemicals.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Challenge-Chemicals-SDS-TSP.pdf


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## TSMill

alcoadam said:


> Has anyone sized up the BB in regards to fitting into a bar fridge?
> 
> I'm sure there's a few out there like me that have a bar fridge modified which comfortably holds the plastic fermenter, though fitting the brew bucket looks a close call...


I can confirm they fit in a Westinghouse bar fridge (RA-141S) with ease.


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## Bribie G

SnakeDoctor said:


> That's right but neither of those two [Na5P3O10] are Trisodium phosphate [Na3PO4], unless I'm horribly mistaken.
> 
> How'd you go at Masters? Only source for TSP that I can find in Aust is http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=309&SZIDX=0&CCODE=41200&QOH=32&CATID=227&CLN=1&pageCount=2 but i've found Challenge does one:
> 
> 
> http://www.challengechemicals.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Challenge-Chemicals-SDS-TSP.pdf


Bought da good sheeyut at Bunnings, a kilo for about $14 - 99% TSP




It claims to clean out rusty washing machines as well and numerous safety warnings, so this should do the trick.

Was talking to a guy who knows all about stainless and he says it would have been passivated already and he's puzzled by why they are stressing passivation, you don't deliberately passivate your dinner knives and forks and they don't rust. Come to think of it my crown urn has been to hell and back and no sign of rust. Reckons they may have had problems in the past and probably covering their bums in case there were some rough bits / pitting on welds etc that they missed out on when they smoothed ("brushed") them out, and that as long as the metal is taken back to absolute clean surface it will passivate itself in the presence of air. Mine is perfectly smooth inside and outside although the feet welds are a bit industrial looking.

So I'll use da good sheeyut fairly concentrated, dry well and put in the sun.


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## Bribie G

The 3/8" ball valve tap can't be taken apart.

The barbed tail could presumably be taken off (Guy at Bunnings showed me an almost identical tap in brass with a barbed tail that can be bought separately the the two screwed together) but that's as far as it can be dismantled.

Strikes me that this would be fine for a boiler but for a fermenter, chance of infection building up.

Bunnings can't help with a 3/8 three piece, does anyone know of a source for a 3/8" 3 piece ball valve?

edit: would it damage anything to take off any rubber o rings and boil the tap for half an hour or even pressure cook it after every use?


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## SnakeDoctor

TSP sounds a bit toxic for me, I think i'm going to give it a decent wipe down and maybe soak with PBW mix and follow up with the starsan.


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## Bribie G

When I ran a LHBS in Maryborough in the late 1970s we used to bag up 500g lots of TSP out of a big sack for glass cleaning.  Never had any bad effects but then it's all PC and cover your arse nowadays.

Might have two bob each way and head round to BILO for some rubber gloves 

ed: and do all my glasses :beerbang:


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## SnakeDoctor

Yeah I wonder how it would go in the dishwasher powder compartment to clean up a load of beer glasses.


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## Bribie G

Well as the Welsh Say,

there's interesting:

After nuking with a fairly strong solution (one cup to ten litres of hot water) TSP by standing it in a laundry bowl with the level of solution up over the legs and washing it inside and out with a soft cloth , the resulting water is a bit muddy, suggesting that even with the use of the sugar soap yesterday there were still remnants of flux or coating or whatever. So presumably it's now down to bare metal.





yup would probably give the dishwasher a good cleanout as well.


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## alcoadam

TSMill said:


> I can confirm they fit in a Westinghouse bar fridge (RA-141S) with ease.


Thankyou! Looks like all systems are GO on this one :beerbang:


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## Black Devil Dog

I cleaned mine with Selleys Sugar Soap, rinsed, wiped dry and then sprayed with the recommended mix of starsan. 

Maybe I hadn't cleaned them properly, but I noticed the runoff from the starsan mix was grey. 

So I repeated the process and I'm fairly sure they're clean now. 

The time it took me to re - clean, would be about as long as it would take me to tip out a couple of tainted batches and clean, if I hadn't.

Time investment well worth it.


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## Bribie G

Here's a piccy of the Brew Bucket next to a Bunnings 30L for comparison. I no longer have Coopers style barrels.


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## elcarter

Bribie G said:


> The 3/8" ball valve tap can't be taken apart.
> 
> The barbed tail could presumably be taken off (Guy at Bunnings showed me an almost identical tap in brass with a barbed tail that can be bought separately the the two screwed together) but that's as far as it can be dismantled.
> 
> Strikes me that this would be fine for a boiler but for a fermenter, chance of infection building up.
> 
> Bunnings can't help with a 3/8 three piece, does anyone know of a source for a 3/8" 3 piece ball valve?
> 
> edit: would it damage anything to take off any rubber o rings and boil the tap for half an hour or even pressure cook it after every use?


My prochem supplier can get 3/8 3 piece ball valves in. Not cheap but will last you a life time. Part number below;


VFB13010NGA



10 NPT (3/8″)


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## Bribie G

Sounds like a good long term investment. As they used to say in the 1960s :

emma chissit ?


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## TSMill

alcoadam said:


> Thankyou! Looks like all systems are GO on this one :beerbang:


I should qualify, that's with all the door shelving cut out...but you wouldn't get a regular fermenter in without doing that either.


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## TSMill

Vagina boob.


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## CrookedFingers

Huh ??


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## Natdene

I kegged some beers tonight so freeing up the fermenting fridge, my two fit easily height wise but will need a little door shelf trimming


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## Batz

Natdene said:


> I kegged some beers tonight so freeing up the fermenting fridge, my two fit easily height wise but will need a little door shelf trimming
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg



Where's the value on the BB? Have you got it facing the rear of the fridge?


Edit...I see not fitted yet.


Batz


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## Natdene

Batz said:


> Where's the value on the BB? Have you got it facing the rear of the fridge?
> 
> Batz


Not installed yet Batz was just trying out the fit, but yes will fit with the valve facing out towards the door


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## Batz

Natdene said:


> Not installed yet Batz was just trying out the fit, but yes will fit with the valve facing out towards the door


Yep noticed that, so whats the total height of the two?

And they are only 26lt right?

Batz


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## Natdene

Batz said:


> Yep noticed that, so whats the total height of the two?
> 
> And they are only 26lt right?
> 
> Batz


yes 26lt each and for two stacked it's 1052mm to top of the clip, 1055mm to top of bung plus your air lock or blow off tube


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## Batz

26lt is useless to me, nothing under 30lt in Batz Brewery.


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## TidalPete

Bribie G said:


> The 3/8" ball valve tap can't be taken apart.
> 
> The barbed tail could presumably be taken off (Guy at Bunnings showed me an almost identical tap in brass with a barbed tail that can be bought separately the the two screwed together) but that's as far as it can be dismantled.
> 
> Strikes me that this would be fine for a boiler but for a fermenter, chance of infection building up.
> 
> Bunnings can't help with a 3/8 three piece, does anyone know of a source for a 3/8" 3 piece ball valve?
> 
> edit: would it damage anything to take off any rubber o rings and boil the tap for half an hour or even pressure cook it after every use?


Would imagine you'd have to screw a 3\8" ss nipple into the 3\8' three-piece valve to attach it to the BB?
Would the supplied pickup tube (with O-rings) fit firmly inside a standard 3\8" ss nipple? I have no idea but interested in finding out. 
Just saying!
Of course you don't HAVE to use the pickup tube which might make things easier?

If you took the O-rings & the plastic handle off the valve before boiling what's left is just stainless & should be ok but why not just treat the supplied ss valve like any other ss valve in your brewery?

Surely a 24-hour soak (open AND closed 12 hours each) in 100% sodium perc or similar would suffice before rinsing, re-attaching to the BB then boiling a few litres of water with an immersion heater to sterilise everything before emptying through the supplied valve?


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## alcoadam

Slightly off topic but any goss on the FTSS? (ferment temp stabilisation system)

I've only found pictures of the unit with expected release this year. No idea how it works, but looks impressive to say the least...


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## Natdene

Batz said:


> 26lt is useless to me, nothing under 30lt in Batz Brewery.


You need the 17gal/64ltr Batz


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## Batz

Natdene said:


> You need the 17gal/65ltr Batz


Two will not fit either my budget or fermenting fridge. :lol:

Other than I'll like them.

Batz


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## rbtmc

Batz why 30L when cornies are only 19?


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## Batz

rbtmc said:


> Batz why 30L when cornies are only 19?


I brew 55lt, I fill two cornies and one 9lt party with each brew.
Just the way I brew.

Batz


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## Natdene

Batz said:


> I brew 55lt, I fill two cornies and one 9lt party with each brew.
> Just the way I brew.
> 
> Batz


so just go one 64ltr, go on you want one


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## Batz

Lets see how lotto plays out tonight.


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## Spiesy

alcoadam said:


> Slightly off topic but any goss on the FTSS? (ferment temp stabilisation system)
> 
> I've only found pictures of the unit with expected release this year. No idea how it works, but looks impressive to say the least...


We should have some more details on this shortly. 

We'll likely make an announcement in the retail thread when we do.


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## Natdene

Finally got my two full after a weekend doing stuff with the kids. Citra smash on the top and a experimental mid on the bottom. Will have to set up my thermowell for next time


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## TidalPete

Sure looks pretty Natdene.

I've been doing (non-brewing) stuff with my kids today too, but apparently the past has come back to haunt us? 

There's no such thing as an empty nester in the current political climate more's the pity. :lol: :lol:

To keep on-topic, another brewer plus myself have both followed the BB Prep & Cleaning instructions absolutely so please take note Newera just in case. 
I'll post a pic if my BB lid conversions when they happen in a week or so.

Good luck with it!


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## Bribie G

The silicone gasket seems to be holding an excellent seal, as you can see by the different levels in the airlock. Only just pitched so no activity as yet. Off to the pet shop for kittens just in case.




I'll definitely experiment with pressure transfer to keg, I know it says it isn't guaranteed to be pressurised, but as long as the keg is flushed I don't mind waiting ten minutes or so for a relatively low pressure transfer, and I have a naked gas line. I'll be lagering in keg initially to free up the BB for next brew.


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## CrookedFingers

First brew on !
Just a pale ale.
Added the thermowell for the KK temp probe.





CF


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## Bribie G

Brave man, drilling into your little chicken-woos 
My Bo Pils has been in for 9 days now and to my surprise when I drew off a small sample from the tap it's quite dry tasting already. That's something I could never do with my Bunnings fermenters. At this rate I might even buy a hydrometer :blink:

I'll check again on Monday, rotate the racking arm up into the body of the brew and if the sample comes out clear enough I'll transfer to SS keg for lagering in the other fridge, and whack and English Special Bitter into the SS.


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## TidalPete

Bribie G said:


> Brave man, drilling into your little chicken-woos


+1
TTBOMK you've probably voided your warranty but stand to be corrected?

Lids OTOH seem to be ok to put holes into (I asked).


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## CrookedFingers

Yeah, thought about that. 
Then RHAHBADidntW !!

Ha !


CF


----------



## Newerabrewing

TidalPete said:


> Sure looks pretty Natdene.
> 
> I've been doing (non-brewing) stuff with my kids today too, but apparently the past has come back to haunt us?
> 
> There's no such thing as an empty nester in the current political climate more's the pity. :lol: :lol:
> 
> To keep on-topic, another brewer plus myself have both followed the BB Prep & Cleaning instructions absolutely so please take note Newera just in case.
> I'll post a pic if my BB lid conversions when they happen in a week or so.
> 
> Good luck with it!


Noted Pete noted


----------



## TidalPete

Posting this for Sav who is having uploading hassles. 





> [SIZE=medium]100 grams dry hopped no beer left[/SIZE]


----------



## TidalPete

TidalPete said:


> Posting this for Sav who is having uploading hassles.


And again!

Racking to keg at 2.0 psi.

These BB's are great or they will be once I get my (modified) lids back.  

Come on the Cows!
9 penalties in the first 40 minutes. WTF!


----------



## Black Devil Dog

Never has the term 'a picture tells a thousand words' been more apt.

Nice one T.P.


----------



## sav

Thanks pete for the photos. 
Bit slower than normal filter but all good. Buckets easy too clean than the normal 42t batch. 
I did save on cleaning a keg for keg to keg filter transfer. 
The pick up worked well kept turning till the end. 
It's nice not having to lift a 60 lt plastic fermenter anymore.


----------



## SmallFry

TidalPete said:


> And again!
> 
> Racking to keg at 2.0 psi.
> 
> These BB's are great or they will be once I get my (modified) lids back.
> 
> Come on the Cows!
> 9 penalties in the first 40 minutes. WTF!


What OD silicone is that going into the top of the BB?

Tried to get a piece of my standard 12mm ID (the thick-walled stuff from Craftbrewer) into the top hole, without success. Do I just need to man up a bit and give it more oomph, or are you using thinner walled hose?


----------



## sav

Nah thick hose mate


----------



## sav

Only tempory though might change to a nipple blow off set up because it's a sharp thin lid that's cutting easy. 
Sav


----------



## TidalPete

> Have drilled a hole dead centre in the lid to accommodate a home-made thermowell (half a corny dip tube). Probe should sit in the middle of a 22-litre wort.
> 
> Have also enlarged the existing hole at the edge to take a 25mm length of ss tube from a 50-litre keg which should make for better blow-off capabilities since the BB is only 26.3 litres capacity.


Re Post 26

Still to get the lids back before I can use the ss fermenters but hopefully the above will sort out any hassles space-wise & improve temp accuracy from probe\occy strap method?
Adding some sort of ss tubing/thermowell to the (original) hole in the BB lid will solve any "sharp edge" problems that WILL happen sooner or later.
Fingers crossed & all that. 
Blow off capabilities should be around 3.4 times that of a normal blow off tube via standard air lock.

Just can't wait!


----------



## Bribie G

Rather simple question, but in the joy that surpasseth all understanding when I got the BrewBucket I clean forgot to buy transfer hose: :blink:

What exact diameter of hose do I need to transfer to keg? I'll pop up to BCF tomorrow and buy a metre or so off the roll.


----------



## TidalPete

In the absence of any suitable silicone hose I got a metre of this from Ross. It's food-grade & a nice firm fit.
Saw it at Clark Rubber too & usually available at local hardware stores.

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=2781


----------



## kenlock

Bribie G said:


> Rather simple question, but in the joy that surpasseth all understanding when I got the BrewBucket I clean forgot to buy transfer hose: :blink:
> 
> What exact diameter of hose do I need to transfer to keg? I'll pop up to BCF tomorrow and buy a metre or so off the roll.


The barb has a 8mm diameter at it's outlet end progressing to a 10mm diameter near the tap end, so 8mm ID as TidalPete just posted.

For those looking to use a blow-off tube, I'm using this tube from Beerbelly, as I had it lying around from an unfinished project, stuck straight into the provided stopper without the grommet.






Also drilled a hole in the lid for a thermowell.





Edit: as TidalPete just posted, and pictures


----------



## Bribie G

Thanks, didn't think about Clark Rubber, 8mm it is.


----------



## Natdene

This is what I had left after kegging my dark mid 
and just out of the fermenter


----------



## Bribie G

Great piece of kit, isn't it 

I just now ran most of a keg off, it was almost clear, with the racking arm just above parallel.

Then I turned the racking arm down a bit into the cone and drew off a bottle for a comp. Just hazy and perfect for bottle conditioning.

I turned the racking arm down a bit more, drew off a second bottle and it was still just hazy.

Swirled the remainder to bring the yeast back into suspension, turned racking arm right down and drew off a Schott bottle of yeast slurry.

Using a flat bottomed Bunnings fermenter I'd be looking at a litre and a half of wastage, after much tipping and cursing, here I'd guess about two cups at most and total control over the process.

:beerbang:


----------



## breakbeer

Brew Bucket is by far the easiest fermenter to clean out of any fv I've ever used!


----------



## Bribie G

Yes, amazing. I'm so used to having to fill the Bunnings job with perc solution, leave overnight, drain, wash inside with dishwashing liquid and a yellow washer, rinse, starsan.....

With the BB it's basically just a quick wash inside with TSP solution then rinse off.. it all exits via the hole and even the tiniest speck of anything really stands out against the stainless steel .. put in the sun to dry and spray inside with Starsan before filling. I was thinking "too easy, I must have forgotten something"

I soaked the ball valve overnight in strong perc solution, turning the tap handle a few times.


----------



## sjp770

So does anyone have the Chronical 26L yet? Thoughts on if its worth grabbing that over the BB? I'll probably purchase next week.


----------



## Newerabrewing

sjp770 said:


> So does anyone have the Chronical 26L yet? Thoughts on if its worth grabbing that over the BB? I'll probably purchase next week.


Hi as posted in the retail thread 7 and 17s expected to be delivered into Brisbane on the 4/ or 5th of August so we will be getting them out a bit after that.
They got delayed getting out of the factory. Conical 7s will now come with new weld less thermo wells as std.


----------



## sjp770

Ahh, I was just looking for that thread.. I'll move my questions there


----------



## Camo6

Well, my first use of the Brewbucket was a definite success. Fermented an overdue harvest session ipa using magnum/chinook for bittering and 150-200gms of homegrown cascade flowers at whirpool - no chilled. Will use a blow off next time as it got awful close to making a mess. I got a little brazen and threw in 50gms of flowers to dryhop and while the flow did block while filling the corny, a twist of the pickup got it flowing again. Nice piece of bling this.


----------



## CrookedFingers

Yep. Too easy. 6mm nylon tube straight on to the barb, down into my baby kegs !
Krausen ring just wiped away.




CF


----------



## sjp770

If anyone finds a triclamp fitting for the Chronical fermenter lid with a 90 degree 12mm barb post it here. I have a 90 degree triclamp elbow and a triclamp to 12mm straight fitting but I'm not sure about my height clearances yet.

I grabbed a stainless pitcher from Kmart for $7 to feed the blowoff tube into.it should hang on the side handle nicely.


----------



## blekk

I was lucky to be surprised by the wife with a Chronical 7 today  Happy days!!


----------



## Blind Dog

blair said:


> I was lucky to be surprised by the wife with a Chronical 7 today  Happy days!!


That is so wrong


----------



## Jaded and Bitter

blair said:


> I was lucky to be surprised by the wife with a Chronical 7 today  Happy days!!





Blind Dog said:


> That is so wrong


My crystal ball says recently married.

Sorry Blair, I do have a name to live up to.


----------



## blekk

Haha I wish! Nope married 7 yrs and together for 12..... I know a glutton for punishment  was a b'gift. I popped up a quick pic in the retail thread but will put some high res ones up later


----------



## blekk

Ok sorry for the delay but as promised some decent photos.... A big thank you to Gary at newera for going above and beyond with the customer service!









Thermowell





Optional [SIZE=11pt]Thermometer[/SIZE]


----------



## breakbeer

Gonna have to get me one of those thermowells & the digi thermometer 

Finishes it off nicely!


----------



## SimoB

how accurate are the thermometers? Can they be calibrated?


----------



## mckenry

The big daddy arrived!
Chronical 17 Gal
Fits in the all fridge fermenting fridge with ease. Fridgemate probe in the thermowell.
Happy Days.


----------



## vykuza

Looks the goods! What size is your fridge?


----------



## Newerabrewing

mckenry said:


> The big daddy arrived!
> Chronical 17 Gal
> Fits in the all fridge fermenting fridge with ease. Fridgemate probe in the thermowell.
> Happy Days.


Looks like its fitting in right at home in that fridge.


----------



## Newerabrewing

SimoB said:


> how accurate are the thermometers? Can they be calibrated?


Accurate enough for the job at hand no way of Calibrating it though


----------



## mckenry

Nick R said:


> Looks the goods! What size is your fridge?


Westinghouse 430L, which is 390L storage volume.
580mm across at the smallest section (the runners for shelves) abd 470mm deep from the refrigerator plate at the back to the front edge.
There is some wriggle room as the door allows a few more cm's, but not required.
Plenty tall enough obviously.


----------



## mckenry

Newerabrewing said:


> Looks like its fitting in right at home in that fridge.


Just needs a beer fermenting in it. This weekend. Yeast is spinning up as I type.

Edit - although I need a 3/4" SS hose tail. Anyone know where is quickest to get from?
I need to pump from the kettle to the fermenter (via chiller) and assume it will need to go in via the dump valve. I suppose it can go in via the beer out racking arm. A little splashing never hurt.


----------



## blekk

mckenry said:


> Just needs a beer fermenting in it. This weekend. Yeast is spinning up as I type.
> 
> Edit - although I need a 3/4" SS hose tail. Anyone know where is quickest to get from?
> I need to pump from the kettle to the fermenter (via chiller) and assume it will need to go in via the dump valve. I suppose it can go in via the beer out racking arm. A little splashing never hurt.


Pirtek or enzed should have them as stock.


----------



## Batz

mckenry said:


> Westinghouse 430L, which is 390L storage volume.
> 580mm across at the smallest section (the runners for shelves) abd 470mm deep from the refrigerator plate at the back to the front edge.
> There is some wriggle room as the door allows a few more cm's, but not required.
> Plenty tall enough obviously.


Are you going to pump out and into your kegs as well?


----------



## mckenry

Batz said:


> Are you going to pump out and into your kegs as well?


No Batz. I will push out with co2. I read somewhere it'll take 5psi. That with the help of gravity will get it through my filter and into the kegs.
Also, I'm going to put another hole in the airlock bung with a tube and tap arrangement so I can flush the headspace after pitching yeast and oxygenating.

There may be some kind of attachment out there already that I can tri-clamp onto the lid that will do what I'm thinking of doing anyway?


----------



## Spiesy

mckenry said:


> No Batz. I will push out with co2. I read somewhere it'll take 5psi.


Correct.


----------



## mombius hibachi

Hi guys,

I bought a 100L SS conical from Keg King, which came with ball valves. First ferment was fine, then an infection crept in. You guessed it! Turns out it was the ball valves. Fermenting wort enters the chamber around the ball valve every time you take a sample, which I've found to be a pain in the arse to clean.
I've since bought butterfly valves and a reallly nice sprayball from glacier in the US. As every commercial brewery uses butterfly valves on their fermentors, why are companies supplying us with ball valves? Happy to be corrected here, but I think ball valves are just for flow control, thread and ball valves don't belong on fermentors...
Happpy and infection free fermenting!

Cheers


----------



## sjp770

Probably a cost thing. I plan to update to butterfly valves soon, and the great thing the the Brewtech SS Chronical fermenter is that all the fittings are trip clamp allowing for a nice upgrade path.

Not to mention the ball valves are three piece so you can and should pull them apart for cleaning.


----------



## blekk

Shouldn't be a problem if you give the valve port a quick spray with no rinse sanitiser before sampling.


----------



## blekk

mckenry said:


> No Batz. I will push out with co2. I read somewhere it'll take 5psi. That with the help of gravity will get it through my filter and into the kegs.
> Also, I'm going to put another hole in the airlock bung with a tube and tap arrangement so I can flush the headspace after pitching yeast and oxygenating.
> 
> There may be some kind of attachment out there already that I can tri-clamp onto the lid that will do what I'm thinking of doing anyway?


Why not just purge with co2 before putting on the tri clamp?


----------



## mckenry

blair said:


> Why not just purge with co2 before putting on the tri clamp?


I dont have one extra and I will want to take samples during the course of fermentation. I'll also be dumping trub and yeast. I want to just hook up the co2 and push out whatever I am after at the time, without opening the fermenter or sucking in air.


----------



## Florian

mombius hibachi said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I bought a 100L SS conical from Keg King, which came with ball valves. First ferment was fine, then an infection crept in. You guessed it! Turns out it was the ball valves. Fermenting wort enters the chamber around the ball valve every time you take a sample, which I've found to be a pain in the arse to clean.
> I've since bought butterfly valves and a reallly nice sprayball from glacier in the US. As every commercial brewery uses butterfly valves on their fermentors, why are companies supplying us with ball valves? Happy to be corrected here, but I think ball valves are just for flow control, thread and ball valves don't belong on fermentors...
> Happpy and infection free fermenting!
> 
> Cheers


Triclover buttefly valves are also at the very top of my shopping list.

I highly recommend for anyone with a Chronical to completely pull the ball valves apart (including the actual ball and white plastic discs) as there is quite a bit of oil in there which might taint your first batch.


----------



## mombius hibachi

Florian you are 100% correct.
They come supplied with lovely black oil (at least mine did) around the ball. 
The problem is once you open a ball valve once, the wort which is inside the ball when you twist it shut then drains into the chamber around the ball. 
I found when taking a sample, the fermenting wort would build pressure and the valve would fart on opening. Potentially sending shit back into the fermentor. Not cool...
Sorry to hijack the thread, and in no way trying to criticise the fermentors build quality. Butterfly valves are not that much more expensive ($60US), and they save the heartache of pouring beer down the drain....
Just trying to save others from my mistakes....
Cheers


----------



## Black n Tan

Florian said:


> Triclover buttefly valves are also at the very top of my shopping list.
> 
> I highly recommend for anyone with a Chronical to completely pull the ball valves apart (including the actual ball and white plastic discs) as there is quite a bit of oil in there which might taint your first batch.


Very good and salient point. I just finished my first batch with my new stainless fermenters (not Chronicals) and obviously didn't clean the ball valves well enough. I soaked them in PBW for an hour and opened and closed the valve a few times, but it wasn't enough. Every time I took a sample I would get this horrible solvent/oil smell and taste. I almost considered tossing the batch, it was so bad, but decided to persist and think I have managed to salvage it. So I highly recommend pulling apart the ball valve prior to first use and giving it a good scrub. I found tricleanium worked well, followed by PBW.

EDIT: typo


----------



## mckenry

Florian said:


> Triclover buttefly valves are also at the very top of my shopping list.
> 
> I highly recommend for anyone with a Chronical to completely pull the ball valves apart (including the actual ball and white plastic discs) as there is quite a bit of oil in there which might taint your first batch.


Thanks Florian,
Just pulled mine apart and the smell reminded me of a mechanics workshop. I followed the instructions on the brewtech website for cleaning and obviously its just not enough.
Am due to brew this weekend and I think you saved my arse!


----------



## blekk

mckenry said:


> I dont have one extra and I will want to take samples during the course of fermentation. I'll also be dumping trub and yeast. I want to just hook up the co2 and push out whatever I am after at the time, without opening the fermenter or sucking in air.


Sorry thought you had a spare tri clamp.... must be someone else. Will you be using a standard air lock?


----------



## mckenry

blair said:


> Sorry thought you had a spare tri clamp.... must be someone else. Will you be using a standard air lock?


Probably at first. I might use a blow off tube if things get out of control.
Still, not a big deal as I cant see a way around opening up for dry hopping. It would be nice to have two hole in the bung. One for CO2 in, and use the other for air out.


----------



## sjp770

I grabbed an elbow and two more triclamps with cap with a 12mm barb. Thinking of making it a t piece and making the other end a CO2 barb. Thoughts?


----------



## SmallFry

Only used my brand new Brew Bucket once, and already I've got SS Brewtech envy.
Damn you high-falutin' Chronical people...


----------



## Florian

mckenry said:


> Thanks Florian,
> Just pulled mine apart and the smell reminded me of a mechanics workshop. I followed the instructions on the brewtech website for cleaning and obviously its just not enough.
> Am due to brew this weekend and I think you saved my arse!


No worries mckenry, am glad that I remembered to do it myself.





I'll post a few pics of what I have done so far.

After cleaning the whole unit with the recommended TSP I filled it with a Star San solution at the recommended strength. A bit of overflow helps passivating the outside as well.




I brewed a batch this morning and decided to no chill straight in the fermenter, rather than in the Braumeister which I have been doing on the last few brews. The idea being that at least I can no chill away from the trub at the bottom of the BM, and any junk that might still accumulate at the bottom of the Chronical once chilled can be easily dumped out the bottom valve.

Before I transferred the wort I purged the Chronical with Co2, the hose fits neatly into the rotating racking arm which is inside the ball valve.




In the above pic you can also notice that I have ditched the 90 degree elbow that comes standard and is normally attached between bottom outlet and ball valve.
I just can't see the point of beer and yeast and trub sitting in that elbow during ferment.
Once I have a triclover butterfly valve I might attach the elbow _behind_ the valve for easier trub removal.

After purging I racked the hot wort directly through the lid port into the Chronical. The silicone hose goes all the way to the bottom to avoid oxygenation at this stage. Once the wort is chilled to ferment temp I will then oxygenate the wort before pitching.




My plan was to attach one of those sanitary air filters to the bung in the lid port, but the brew shop around the corner had no idea what I was talking about and I didn't want to steal the one from my oxygen setup, so I just used 137 layers of different tissue papers and attached them with a hair band to the port. Hopefully that will let enough clean air through so my new fermenter doesn't implode before the first ferment.




Once the wort is chilled I will carry the full fermenter into the garage (I have tested carrying it full with Star San and it works quite well), stick it in the fridge and push the STC-1000 probe into the thermowell.

As for fridge, I had one that I thought was suitable but of course the door shelves were in the way as usual. Rather than hacking into them I took it off completely and reattached the seal in an amateur effort with duct tape.
I could have just used the big fridge next to it but there was too much stuff in the freezer compartment which I couldn't be bothered shifting around.


----------



## vykuza

Thanks for that Florian! I like the idea you can get the CO2 line in the racking arm.

Is that hair band sanitised?


----------



## blekk

Bit more info. For anyone who does smaller batchs like myself sometimes (or anyone really) the chronical 7 bottom is around 6.5 liters give or take a couple of hundred mLs.


----------



## sjp770

Pretty sure this eBay item number is the right butterfly valve BTW.

121350278324

Copy and paste into eBay search.


----------



## Florian

Chilling down to pitching temp


----------



## davedoran

Bribie G said:


> The 3/8" ball valve tap can't be taken apart.
> 
> The barbed tail could presumably be taken off (Guy at Bunnings showed me an almost identical tap in brass with a barbed tail that can be bought separately the the two screwed together) but that's as far as it can be dismantled.
> 
> Strikes me that this would be fine for a boiler but for a fermenter, chance of infection building up.
> 
> Bunnings can't help with a 3/8 three piece, does anyone know of a source for a 3/8" 3 piece ball valve?
> 
> edit: would it damage anything to take off any rubber o rings and boil the tap for half an hour or even pressure cook it after every use?


Did you end up changing the ball valve out Bribie or stay with the supplied valve with hose barb?


----------



## Bribie G

Elcarter (retailer) said they were available but he never got back to me.

edit: however I realise I read his post wrong and have got onto Prochem myself, awaiting their response. I pointed out to them that they might get a few repeat sales as a lot of the buckets have been imported.


----------



## davedoran

Ok thanks.

I got a brew bucket yday and would never have thought the ball valve would have been an issue but there you go. Presuming the change over is a long term thinking thing as everyone seem really pleased with initial brews.


----------



## Jord

Dave and Bribie,

Are you trying to replace the factory valves due concerns over sanitation? I've just been doing a bit of light reading through the extensive BB thread over on HBT, and some of the guys there have shown that you can actually break the supplied taps down for cleaning. They also highly recommend it, with reports of trapped liquid and beery smells upon opening after only a couple of brews! :unsure:

It sounds like a pretty simple process... hold the body of the tap padded in the vice and remove the barb with a shifter. Then with the valve in the closed position, push the ball and outer seal through from the inlet side with a dowel or whatever. The internal seal sounds a bit trickier to remove, but could probably remain in place for the purposes of cleaning. There are photos provided in that thread here - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/brew-bucket-ss-brewing-technologies-446675/index28.html, but I only received my bucket yesterday so haven't tried it myself yet. I will guinea pig it tonight and let you know how it goes if you care.


----------



## Bribie G

Thanks, would appreciate that.


----------



## sjp770

Picked up some TSP (tricleanium) from bunnings. 2.2kgs @ $24


----------



## davedoran

Jord said:


> Dave and Bribie,
> 
> Are you trying to replace the factory valves due concerns over sanitation? I've just been doing a bit of light reading through the extensive BB thread over on HBT, and some of the guys there have shown that you can actually break the supplied taps down for cleaning. They also highly recommend it, with reports of trapped liquid and beery smells upon opening after only a couple of brews! :unsure:
> 
> It sounds like a pretty simple process... hold the body of the tap padded in the vice and remove the barb with a shifter. Then with the valve in the closed position, push the ball and outer seal through from the inlet side with a dowel or whatever. The internal seal sounds a bit trickier to remove, but could probably remain in place for the purposes of cleaning. There are photos provided in that thread here - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/brew-bucket-ss-brewing-technologies-446675/index28.html, but I only received my bucket yesterday so haven't tried it myself yet. I will guinea pig it tonight and let you know how it goes if you care.


Cheers Jord. 
Don't go to too much effect. If it starts getting tricky leave it alone. I was nervous drilling a hole in mine for a thermowell.


----------



## Bribie G

Got a reply back from Prochem. The 3 piece ball valve is $27 .. not too bad at all, but $25 freight :unsure:
As a one off purchase I'll probably buy one for peace of mind.

[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Thanks for your enquiry. Prochem do not have specific distributors or re-sellers, but you are welcome to buy these direct from us.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]I can offer the valve per below. Pick up is OK or I have include a freight charge, just keep in mind we have a minimum order value of $100.00 for cash sale customers.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Any questions about this just let me know.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]P/N: *VFB13010NGA*[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]10NPT 3-PIECE FULL BORE BALL VALVE 1000WOG GRTFE SEAL CF8M[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]$27.00EA – EXSTOCK[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]FREIGHT $25.00 [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Kind regards[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt] [/SIZE]

*[SIZE=11pt]David Kingsley[/SIZE]*
[SIZE=10pt]Prochem Pipeline Products Pty Ltd[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]27 Lisbon St Villawood NSW 2163[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Ph: 02 9727 0044[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Fax: 02 9728 6766[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Email: [email protected][/SIZE]
[SIZE=10pt]Web: www.prochem.com.au[/SIZE]


----------



## Jord

dave doran said:


> Cheers Jord.
> Don't go to too much effect. If it starts getting tricky leave it alone. I was nervous drilling a hole in mine for a thermowell.


Was no effort mate, there's nothing too complicated about them! 

The barb comes out easy enough with some padded multigrips holding the body and a shifter. Then open the valve to half way and poke the blunt end of a bamboo skewer or something through the ball from the inlet side to catch the edge of the external seal and give a nudge to push it up off the ball. Then gently work it up the thread and out of the body (has a flange that mates and seals with the female thread inside the body). Turn the valve back to the closed position and the ball will drop out. Then you just need a small hook pick or a bent pin to reach in and lift up the internal seal. This comes out easy from there as it doesn't have the flange. And voila, that's all there is too it. The only tricky bit is getting that flanged seal out, and getting the ball back in afterwards takes a bit of jiggling. 




barb removed, external seal exposed with the tight mate between flange and thread 



pushing through from the back to unseat the seal



ball will fall straight out, the flanged edge of the external seal shown removed, and the internal seal 



all broken down, minus the tap handle and stem assembly 

This all literally took me two minutes, its quicker than stripping down a three piece! Care does need to be taken removing the external seal, as that flange is quite delicate and will likely strip off with excessive force, and even then I can't see it holding up very long to frequent removals. My gut tells me this won't be an issue to the function of the valve or cause any leaking, but I do not guarantee that the tap won't leak once this seal to the thread becomes damaged. This is a shame, because otherwise it is a dead simple operation, and one I personally feel is important to maintaining good sanitation in your fermenter. These things are ball valves after all, and we all know how nasty these things can get after a while!

All things considered, I intend to strip and clean mine after each fermentation, and will replace the tap one way or another should I ever run into trouble. At that time I will be happy in the knowledge that I have been eliminating this potential source of infection, and will consider it as nothing lost.


----------



## Bribie G

Thanks for that. Even Bunnings sell plain brass versions that look identical to the SS supplied one, so I'd guess they are around the place in various guises. The barb is actually a separate accessory because I'd guess in general usage the valve would often be inline in a pipe system.

If worst comes to the worst you can buy the Prochem one.


----------



## SimoB

Bribie, what batch size are you getting out of the buckets??


----------



## Bribie G

Keg plus about two bottles for archive. Although they hold less than the 30L Bunnings, I get around the same beer out because with a flat bottomed fermenter I seem to waste a litre when the beer gets down to trub level and even though there is a layer of clear beer it starts sucking the yeast through as well. With a conical this level is lower as the yeast is down in the cone so less wastage.

ed: for the odd brew that gets a very big krausen, to avoid a boilover through the airlock I'd guess you could go Lion Fosters and brew over gravity then dilute to "serving strength" towards the end of fermentation.


----------



## Yob

Or some foam control?


----------



## SimoB

OK Cool I keg, so really making that size batch makes sense. I look a pics of these at least once a day... Actually, about 5 times. !!


----------



## blekk

What about fermenting under pressure to keep the krausen down?


----------



## davedoran

Bribie G said:


> Got a reply back from Prochem. The 3 piece ball valve is $27 .. not too bad at all, but $25 freight :unsure:
> As a one off purchase I'll probably buy one for peace of mind.
> 
> [/size]
> Thanks for your enquiry. Prochem do not have specific distributors or re-sellers, but you are welcome to buy these direct from us.[/size]
> I can offer the valve per below. Pick up is OK or I have include a freight charge, just keep in mind we have a minimum order value of $100.00 for cash sale customers.[/size]
> [/size]
> Any questions about this just let me know.[/size]
> [/size]
> P/N: *VFB13010NGA*[/size]
> 10NPT 3-PIECE FULL BORE BALL VALVE 1000WOG GRTFE SEAL CF8M[/size]
> $27.00EA – EXSTOCK[/size]
> [/size]
> FREIGHT $25.00 [/size]
> [/size]
> Kind regards[/size]
> [/size]
> 
> *David Kingsley[/size]*
> Prochem Pipeline Products Pty Ltd[/size]
> 27 Lisbon St Villawood NSW 2163[/size]
> Ph: 02 9727 0044[/size]
> Fax: 02 9728 6766[/size]
> Email: [email protected][/size]
> Web: www.prochem.com.au[/size]


Prob get away with it at this size but they have quoted an npt thread. Most hose tails and threaded fittings here are bsp.


----------



## Spiesy

And there's a $100 minimum on your order, mate.


----------



## Camo6

I bought a few parts as a cash sale from Prochem in Melbourne. There was no minimum order from memory and came in under $100. It was a Saturday morning which may have made a difference. Quality fittings too but pricey as they're pressure rated.


----------



## SmallFry

Maybe an EOI on a BB? Not like we don't have enough TLA's on AHB.


----------



## Fat Bastard

Mine's so purdy I got a glass door fridge so i can gaze upon it's beauty at all times... I've also modified it to take butterfly valves, which wasn't particularly difficult and it's not something that changes the actual vessel.






I kind of screwed up with the dimensions, so my blow off doesn't work with this fridge... hoping lids will be available so I can cut and weld mine without stress!


----------



## davedoran

Fat Bastard said:


> Mine's so purdy I got a glass door fridge so i can gaze upon it's beauty at all times... I've also modified it to take butterfly valves, which wasn't particularly difficult and it's not something that changes the actual vessel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I kind of screwed up with the dimensions, so my blow off doesn't work with this fridge... hoping lids will be available so I can cut and weld mine without stress!


Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??


----------



## Boozed

Bloody nice FB!


----------



## Florian

dave doran said:


> Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??


Yes it does, but honestly, seeing you have such a pretty fridge, I wouldn't compromise the beauty of the domed lid just so you can fit a blow off. You say you don't need the extra height of the domed lid so why do you need a blow off then?

Just attach a sanitary filter to the bung that is supplied with the lid and you will be sweet.




EDIT: added quote


----------



## Newerabrewing

dave doran said:


> Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??


Yep it sure does well the 7 at least not the 17


----------



## Fat Bastard

dave doran said:


> Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??


Apparently it will! This is too easy!



Boozed said:


> Bloody nice FB!



Thanks!


----------



## spog

dave doran said:


> Wonder If the brew bucket lid would fit the chronical??


Reminds me of one of those " in emergency break glass " cabinets.
Cheers..spog...


----------



## Cocko

Jeebus FB - that is ******* awesome... :super:

Mine is passavisationing as I type.

Also, you know you posted a swear word? The sign on the fridge? Sorry....



Reported.


----------



## Fat Bastard

7 posts to report my puerile sense of humor that took me 5 seconds with a razor blade? You should have seen what I had planned for the cat and dog sillhouttes on it before Mrs Bastard peeled them off and stuck 'em on the inside fridge before I could commit an act of unspeakable bastardry on them!

_How dare you sir!_


----------



## sjp770

Wuhoo! Got mine today


----------



## Florian

Nice blow off assembly! Is that just a water jug?


----------



## sjp770

Yep, stainless jug from Kmart, $7. Still waiting on triclamp seals and the cap with a 12mm barb to show up. So happy they included a bung so I can use my old airlock in the meantime.

BTW, I will be building a new shelf to hold it over the weekend.


----------



## Camo6

Jeez they look nice. Not quite as blingy but I have today off so managed to fill my new brewbucket and test their stackability.

From this: To this:




Hmmm. Maybe I should use a fresh piece of hose for that blow-off.


----------



## sjp770

I did think of the brew bucket for the dual batch capability, but tri clamp fittings won me over.

I just realised I will have to put the blow off assembly on the other side, away from the electrics of the fridge.


----------



## Endo

How much headspace is too little headspace on the 27l jobby?

I do around 21L batches, which would leave 6L of headspace. Is that too little? Or is that why most pic's have a blow off hose?

Its stainless. I luuuuuuuuuuuuuuve stainless, its shiney. Soooooooooooooooooooo shiney................ My shiiineeeey


----------



## Weizguy

Endo said:


> How much headspace is too little headspace on the 27l jobby?
> 
> I do around 21L batches, which would leave 6L of headspace. Is that too little? Or is that why most pic's have a blow off hose?
> 
> Its stainless. I luuuuuuuuuuuuuuve stainless, its shiney. Soooooooooooooooooooo shiney................ My shiiineeeey


Depends how much head volume your beers normally throw up.

If you pitch consistent size yeast/ starters and aerate the same and don't upgrade to oxygen injection, you could be fine, based on experience.

I brew wheat beer and will need to ferment them in another vessel or decrease batch size to cope with 30% headspace (at least).


----------



## Spiesy

Endo said:


> How much headspace is too little headspace on the 27l jobby?
> 
> I do around 21L batches, which would leave 6L of headspace. Is that too little? Or is that why most pic's have a blow off hose?
> 
> Its stainless. I luuuuuuuuuuuuuuve stainless, its shiney. Soooooooooooooooooooo shiney................ My shiiineeeey


With an aggressive ferment, you're probably pushing it with only 6-litres headspace available. 

You can either knock your batch volumes down a little, stick to yeasts that don't go nuts, or get a blow-off tube setup.


----------



## blekk

Anyone see any issues with putting quick disconnects on the ballvalve instead of butterfly valves? Would keep costs down and more convenient to use....


----------



## Weizguy

blair said:


> Anyone see any issues with putting quick disconnects on the ballvalve instead of butterfly valves? Would keep costs down and more convenient to use....


more cleaning, and places for problems to hide


----------



## elcarter

Bribie G said:


> Elcarter (retailer) said they were available but he never got back to me.
> 
> edit: however I realise I read his post wrong and have got onto Prochem myself, awaiting their response. I pointed out to them that they might get a few repeat sales as a lot of the buckets have been imported.


Sorry Bribie I only just saw this, if you haven't had any luck and a few of you guys need some I can sort something out at my end.


----------



## Bribie G

No problem. I have a couple of irons in the fire but will contact you if I run out of luck


----------



## Endo

Spiesy said:


> With an aggressive ferment, you're probably pushing it with only 6-litres headspace available.
> 
> You can either knock your batch volumes down a little, stick to yeasts that don't go nuts, or get a blow-off tube setup.



My IPA I use America II... The Imperial Stout I over boiled looks like it blew the lid off(calculated max off 22% abv :blink: ).... one of those run of the mill barrel fermenter with about 8litres in it... lol

The fermenter needs to be able to handle any standard size batches I do (usually the 21L mark) or any experimental half batches I do.

if a blow off tube setup is going to solve any issues then happy to go down that path as long as its not going to be to the detriment of the final product.


----------



## Spiesy

Endo said:


> My IPA I use America II... The Imperial Stout I over boiled looks like it blew the lid off(calculated max off 22% abv :blink: ).... one of those run of the mill barrel fermenter with about 8litres in it... lol
> 
> The fermenter needs to be able to handle any standard size batches I do (usually the 21L mark) or any experimental half batches I do.
> 
> if a blow off tube setup is going to solve any issues then happy to go down that path as long as its not going to be to the detriment of the final product.


What yeast are you using to get to 22% ABV? Champagne yeast? White Labs Super High Gravity?

You blew the lid of a 30L fermenter (not sure what size, you haven't said) with 8L of this wort?

A blow-off tube shouldn't be detrimental to your final product, but I reckon a 22% stout might be detrimental to your health!


----------



## Endo

Spiesy said:


> What yeast are you using to get to 22% ABV? Champagne yeast? White Labs Super High Gravity?
> 
> You blew the lid of a 30L fermenter (not sure what size, you haven't said) with 8L of this wort?
> 
> A blow-off tube shouldn't be detrimental to your final product, but I reckon a 22% stout might be detrimental to your health!


It was a half batch for a RIS, was meant to be around the 10% mark but I didnt watch the boil close enough.... and i went foamy and reduced down... a lot, I've got the white labs stuff. Lesson's learned... Keep an eye on the damn boil!

The outside of the fermenter was clean... now its got brown stains.. I'd say it blew its top... It was in a fermentation fridge.. So unless Aliens did it.... :huh:


Be interesting to see how / if it turns out once its done.... For science! 

Might have to do my tax return so Uncle Joe can buy me a brew bucket


----------



## Spiesy

Good Lord!


----------



## 620rossco

EC1118 will get close to that high.
Its Chanpaign yeast.
I'd believe it, these washes really go off.


----------



## Fat Bastard

What diameter blow off tube is everyone using? I'm a newcomer to the blowoff, and had planned on using a 1" diameter tube, but I've been stymied by the available height in my fridge. I can just squeeze in a 16mm push fit fitting on top of the chronical lid with some subtle mods. Is that big enough? I can see some advantage to using the push fit fittings for pressure ferments and transfer, but I'm not sure if the 14mm ID of the tube is adequate to allow egress of the envisioned krausen monsters.

Cheers,

FB


----------



## TidalPete

I'm STILL waiting for my modified lid to come back to me but as well as a home-made thermowell it's getting a short length of spear from a 50-litre keg TIG'd in for the blow-off which should allow for over 3.5 times the C02 extraction of a normal plastic bubbler.
25mm ID reinforced FG hose from Clark Rubber is a nice firm fit.

FB ----- Would a couple of 25mm FG poly elbows from an irrigation shop solve your problem?


----------



## Fat Bastard

Looking at it, it looks too tall. The welders at work have decided that the lid itself is too thin to weld easily, but they were happy to cut the triclover fitting off and lower it, leaving just enough room for the clamp. That should give me enough room without chopping the legs. Given that the lids will be available as a spare part in the future, I think this is the first port of call.


----------



## sjp770

I was a little disappointed with how thin the lid is I must say...


----------



## HeavyNova

I'm happy to say I've just taken delivery of a 26L Chronical and after reading about the potential sanitation difficulties with the included ball valves I'm keen to switch them out to butterfly valves. Sounds a bit silly but I have no prior experience with valves so the various types, sizes and thread patterns have me a little confused.

I'd like to avoid buying the wrong ones! Can anyone let me know the right pair for to replace the 2 that came with the Chronical?

The one previously linked in Ebay (a few pages ago) appeared to have a triclover on each side...so what do you get to connect a 1/2" hose or quick disconnect fitting to that?


----------



## sjp770

1.5" Triclover to 12mm barb


----------



## HeavyNova

Cheers sjp770, I think I've got my head around it now.

I just need an extra tri-clamp, gasket and a 1/2" female threaded section to fit behind the butterfly valve to easily attach a QD or whatever else...and just make sure it's all 1.5" triclover stuff.


----------



## Florian

If you're going down the route of triclover and butterfly I would stay well clear of any threads. Every fitting you need is available as triclover as well.


----------



## HeavyNova

OK, I hear what you're saying. Cheers for the advice Florian.


----------



## pat_00

Would it be silly to try no-chilling in one of these? Anybody done it?

My idea would include allowing for the shrinkage, some kind of reverse airlock or something similar.

Then you could suck out the break with the long racking arm and start fermenting.


----------



## Florian

yep. can't link to it from phone but it's post 129 on page 7.


----------



## mckenry

pat_00 said:


> Would it be silly to try no-chilling in one of these? Anybody done it?
> 
> My idea would include allowing for the shrinkage, some kind of reverse airlock or something similar.
> 
> Then you could suck out the break with the long racking arm and start fermenting.


Its only silly if you cant replace the vacuum created when the liquid cools. An airlock - standard, (not reverse whatever that is) would allow air in and stop your bucket or chronical caving in due to the vacuum created as wort shrinks. There are sanitary air filters that will do the job. Still, its air getting in, which isnt the best idea. You could try to rig up a CO2 system on low to keep it positive pressure, but then you run the risk of carbonating unfermented wort. Not good for yeasties. Just no-chill in airtight plastic if you must no chill. I use the CO2 in my keg fermenter, but just give it a squirt to bump the pressure up a bit. A keg is a whole lot stronger than a bucket or chronical though. I had to chill wort down from 19 (post chiller) to 12 to pitch my lager yeast in my 17 gal chronical.
I'm thinking, as the chronical can be pressuried to 5psi and there is a relief valve built in, I might set my reg to 5psi when chilling next time, just to keep the headspace at neutral pressure.


----------



## Florian

also, no need to rack out trub via racking arm, just dump through your bottom valve, that's what it's there for.


----------



## pat_00

I was thinking of the brew bucket, no the chronical.

Yeah a sanitary air filter was what I was thinking. Just trying to eliminate plastic where I can in the brewing process.

As soon as we get a water tank, chilling is on the cards so maybe I'll wait.


----------



## Florian

pat_00 said:


> I was thinking of the brew bucket, no the chronical.


Maybe time to split the thread up?

Maybe leave all brew bucket posts here and move the Chronical stuff to here: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/79956-ss-brewtech-chronical-7-gallon-conical-fermenter/

Happy to supply a list with post numbers to be moved to the other thread if that helps.


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies

For those contemplating the change of ball valve to a butterfly valve please look at an exploded view of the butterfly first.
You will see there is just as much potential for it to harbor bacteria as a ball valve, as with any valve its how you clean the product that counts.
I have worked professionally with both and can not say I have had more problems with one or the other.
Save your money and spend it on good cleaning and sanitising products.
NeV


----------



## Newerabrewing

Hi All

I Have to agree with Nev on the above it is entirely up to the individual regarding the ball vs butterfly I have spoken to Ss Brewtech and they have received zero issues directly relating to any of the valves supplied with either the bucket or Chronicals forums excluded. Obviously this does not mean that proper sanitation should not be carried out before and after each use. I have also supplied some of these units to both small and larger breweries as test units for recipe design and none are switching out the valves. Again entirely up to you guys and if you want to change them but there is a heap of other brewing goodies out there to spend money on. 

Besides the valve differing of opinions I would be interested to hear about what improvements you think could be made to either the bucket or the chronicals I have several small beer related prizes for the top five ideas on what we could do better.


----------



## Camo6

I'd love to see a lid for the bucket with a dry hopping port. I'm currently stacking mine and it's a pain shifting them around to take a lid off.


----------



## Florian

Newerabrewing said:


> Besides the valve differing of opinions I would be interested to hear about what improvements you think could be made to either the bucket or the chronicals I have several small beer related prizes for the top five ideas on what we could do better.


Extendable legs. Some sort of legs that can be pushed into each other or extended out and then locked with a pin or similar.
Helps people with small fridges as they can bring the bottom valve right down to the floor, and also helps if you want your fermenter to sit higher for easier gravity transfer or to add extra valves and other connections.

Something similar to this:


----------



## lukencode

Brewbuckets would be even more awesome with:

- themowell
- metric markings
- bigger pickup tube
- some sort of hatch to dry hop though


----------



## Newerabrewing

lukencode said:


> Brewbuckets would be even more awesome with:
> 
> - themowell
> - metric markings
> - bigger pickup tube
> - some sort of hatch to dry hop though


Good one
I think at least two of these might be in future revisions


----------



## Newerabrewing

Florian said:


> Extendable legs. Some sort of legs that can be pushed into each other or extended out and then locked with a pin or similar.
> Helps people with small fridges as they can bring the bottom valve right down to the floor, and also helps if you want your fermenter to sit higher for easier gravity transfer or to add extra valves and other connections.
> 
> Something similar to this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 21B79fFPAuL.jpg


Mmm that's an interesting one there is definatly something like this on the books for 2015 but not sure if its going to reduce the height any its more for boosting.


----------



## blekk

Would love a small viewing port


----------



## blekk

blair said:


> Would love a small viewing port


Could also double as a dry hopping port


----------



## mckenry

Newerabrewing said:


> Besides the valve differing of opinions I would be interested to hear about what improvements you think could be made to either the bucket or the chronicals I have several small beer related prizes for the top five ideas on what we could do better.


I would like a vertical window in the chronical. From about the 60L mark to just above the top of the cone. This allows us to see fermentation (how many 'my chronical airlock is not bubbling' threads can we have :lol: ) and also when draining we can watch to see when to turn the racking arm, or stop draining if it had a massive dry hop, to avoid the crud going into the arm.
BTW my T-shirt looks awesome. Thanks newera. Mrs mckenry reckons its up my sexiness from 3.5/10 to a 4 !!


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies

mckenry said:


> I would like a vertical window in the chronical. From about the 60L mark to just above the top of the cone. This allows us to see fermentation (how many 'my chronical airlock is not bubbling' threads can we have :lol: ) and also when draining we can watch to see when to turn the racking arm, or stop draining if it had a massive dry hop, to avoid the crud going into the arm.
> BTW my T-shirt looks awesome. Thanks newera. Mrs mckenry reckons its up my sexiness from 3.5/10 to a 4 !!


Care to model it on here ?
I havent seen one yet.


----------



## SmallFry

Some form of simple handle on the brew bucket lid.

When pitching yeast, or dry-hopping, it would be great to lift the lid with one hand and quickly throw the hops/yeast in with the other. At the moment I have to use 2 hands to take the lid off, place it down somewhere upside-down to keep things sanitary, pitch, then replace the lid.
Only a small problem, I know, but it should only be a small engineering rework to fix it, too. Less time with the lid off lowers the vectors to infection.


----------



## mckenry

Online Brewing Supplies said:


> Care to model it on here ?
> I havent seen one yet.


Here you go Nev. Do not print this and put it up in the workshop. Nor can you pin it to the back of your cell mate....


----------



## Florian

When I clicked on 'like' I meant the bar, not the shirt (or the model, sorry).


----------



## Tahoose

Haha I was thinking the same. Stuff the t-shirt I want the font.


----------



## Spiesy

SmallFry said:


> Some form of simple handle on the brew bucket lid.
> 
> When pitching yeast, or dry-hopping, it would be great to lift the lid with one hand and quickly throw the hops/yeast in with the other. At the moment I have to use 2 hands to take the lid off, place it down somewhere upside-down to keep things sanitary, pitch, then replace the lid.
> Only a small problem, I know, but it should only be a small engineering rework to fix it, too. Less time with the lid off lowers the vectors to infection.


I can open the lid enough with one hand to drop hops in. Even with one latch still on. 

I pitch yeast before I put the lid on.


----------



## MastersBrewery

Florian said:


> When I clicked on 'like' I meant the bar, not the shirt (or the model, sorry).


Yeah have to say I'd almost sleep with that model for the font and drip tray setup.... don't tell Cocko h34r:


----------



## Camo6

TidalPete said:


> In the absence of any suitable silicone hose I got a metre of this from Ross. It's food-grade & a nice firm fit.
> Saw it at Clark Rubber too & usually available at local hardware stores.
> 
> http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=2781


I've found that a length of 9.5mm ID silicone hose from craftbrewer is a nice snug fit on the 10mm step after the barb. There are a couple of flats on this section but the hose is flexible enough to contour around this and not draw air as far as I can tell.


----------



## SnakeDoctor

Camo6 said:


> I've found that a length of 9.5mm ID silicone hose from craftbrewer is a nice snug fit on the 10mm step after the barb. There are a couple of flats on this section but the hose is flexible enough to contour around this and not draw air as far as I can tell.


+1


----------



## Florian

Got these babies in the mail yesterday...


----------



## sjp770

Nice! Saw those at stilldragon.com.au, I was wondering if it would work. I guess if your sitting your fermenting gear in a fridge light exposure wouldn't be an issue.


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies

Florian said:


> Got these babies in the mail yesterday...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140902_173556.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140902_173353.jpg


Just wondering why you need the sight tube ?


----------



## Florian

sjp770 said:


> Nice! Saw those at stilldragon.com.au, I was wondering if it would work. I guess if your sitting your fermenting gear in a fridge light exposure wouldn't be an issue.


I've got a glass door fridge coming, though... Not too worried about it to be honest.

The problem I have is that the whole assembly is a tad longer than I have space under the fermenter, means I need to sit the three legs on on some bricks or something.
Which is fine, what I didn't think of is that I can't just carry the fermenter around when/after filling, as I can't just sit it down somewhere when it gets to heavy due to the appendage.

Might have to build a dolly with leg stands to transport it from brewing to fermenting area. Certainly not going back to no chill cubes.

Or I could turn it around and attach the valve to the fermenter and then the sight glass once the fermenter is in place, but I rather have it the other way round so i don't introduce air into the beer when opening the valve.

EDIT: added quote for clarity


----------



## Florian

Online Brewing Supplies said:


> Just wondering why you need the sight tube ?


I don't need it at all, but I can then observe fermentation and also have better control over what I dump out the bottom valve as everything that goes through the valve goes through the sight glass first, therefore I can see what and how much it is. Dump trub, collect yeast etc.


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies

Florian said:


> I don't need it at all, but I can then observe fermentation and also have better control over what I dump out the bottom valve as everything that goes through the valve goes through the sight glass first, therefore I can see what and how much it is. Dump trub, collect yeast etc.


As a dump valve I can see the advantage but as observing ferment I dont see how that works?


----------



## Florian

Online Brewing Supplies said:


> As a dump valve I can see the advantage but as observing ferment I dont see how that works?


I didn't get it from morebeer but that's where the idea came from:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kgpcauFflA


----------



## MastersBrewery

with the glass door fridge , wouldn't window tint solve the issue, after all it's those UV rays your trying to avoid and that's what most tints claim to block.

MB

ED: sprung to mind you could just tint the out side glass of the sight glass!


----------



## sjp770

Best thing would be two bits of pipe, one with a hole ( as seen in the vid above) and one that is just a cover you rotate into position.


----------



## Florian

Mine's got a full glass channel, not 'windows' like in the video.

Honestly though I'm not worried, the fridge is in the garage with no direct sunlight.


----------



## Blind Dog

Camo6 said:


> I've found that a length of 9.5mm ID silicone hose from craftbrewer is a nice snug fit on the 10mm step after the barb. There are a couple of flats on this section but the hose is flexible enough to contour around this and not draw air as far as I can tell.


----------



## Blind Dog

MastersBrewery said:


> Yeah have to say I'd almost sleep with that model for the font and drip tray setup.... don't tell Cocko h34r:





Camo6 said:


> I've found that a length of 9.5mm ID silicone hose from craftbrewer is a nice snug fit on the 10mm step after the barb. There are a couple of flats on this section but the hose is flexible enough to contour around this and not draw air as far as I can tell.


I read those posts one after the other, and it's clearly a whole new world


----------



## sav

Florian said:


> Got these babies in the mail yesterday...
> 
> IMG_20140902_173556.jpg
> 
> IMG_20140902_173353.jpg


----------



## sav

Where from mate. They look good.


----------



## Cocko

Florian said:


> No worries mckenry, am glad that I remembered to do it myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140819_130442.jpg




I have just tapped my first brew from the 26L Chronny... Was great but first samples did have a 'mechanic' aroma... keg is fine but just throwing it our there - to clean the bejeebiz out of the fittings IMO.

Strip down. Soak. Rinse - boiling water the key.

Carry on.


----------



## Camo6

I resent that comment, kinda, even though I'm now ex communicado. Maybe you detected an 'automotive specialist' taste?

Gotta say I'm loving fermenting in stainless. Although there's been a few variants in my brewing lately, ie switching to Pid controlled mash schedules, resuming my use of Brewbrite and fermenting in stainless, I was impressed with my latest batch of a Centennial Smash. An eight day ferment, five days CCing at only 3-4 degrees and after three days in the keg was pouring clear. I noticed after dry hopping (at the start of CCing) the hops formed a neat layer over the yeast cake and I wonder if this had some effect filtering the final beer. Anyway, the beer looked great, smelled great and tasted great ( though a slight dankness could be perceived Spiesy :angry: ). I'm not sure whether it's the change in my mash sensors or the use of stainless, or both, but my beers are clearing quicker and hitting FG 2 points under what I was used to before.


----------



## Fat Bastard

Florian said:


> Got these babies in the mail yesterday...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140902_173556.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140902_173353.jpg


I was looking at those sight glasses on ebay but had planned to use it after the dump valve to see when it started to run clear. I'll probably hold off for a while on it to see if i can judge it from the view through silicone tube into a glass jug first.

I was planning to fill my 7gal this weekend, but as the weather is likely to be shit in Sydney and I have to go in for foot surgery tomorrow, I think I'll just write the weekend off and just give my baybee a good seeing to... Ive got a kilo of TSP, bulk PBW and some butterfly valves. Phwoooar!


----------



## Spiesy

Camo6 said:


> though a slight dankness could be perceived Spiesy :angry:


Lol


----------



## Florian

sav said:


> Where from mate. They look good.


Aliexpress.

Also got a sanitary sample valve in the mail yesterday. Easy to pull apart for cleaning and great for sampling and transferring to keg.





Also picked up my new fridge. Not quite sure yet what to do about the 'decorations', but so far I've cleaned off those JB stickers from the door and gave the inside floor a good spray paint to hide the rust.
Turned it on to day and noticed that it is bloody loud! No way that fridge could live inside the house. Also can't find a way to turn the light off. Do these things usually come with an on/off switch? You would think in a shop setup you would be able to turn the lights off at night?


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies

Take the bulb out, thats kinda what I did , actually I cut the wires.
Nev


----------



## Florian

I want to have the light on though 'when I look at it', that's the whole point of a glass door fridge, right? Just don't want to run the light all day all night if avoidable.


----------



## Dan Pratt

Florian said:


> IMG_20140904_122159.jpg


 Florian,

I have a single door display fridge like that but without the megaswill decorations....anyway I found mine to be loud too with the fans running so i have it in the shed with the brew gear and since its been installed only notice it when it kicks the compressor in.

As for the light, I removed mine cos the fluro was lighting up the entire shed at night, at the end of teh day you can still see the fermenter with or without it...if you know a sparky get a switch installed.


----------



## HeavyNova

Wanted to emphasis to those with or thinking about getting on of these fermenters that a decent clean prior to use is recommended. I cleaned my Chronical and the fittings with TSP on the weekend and the water ends up pretty murky!

Then I filled with a StarSan solution for about half an hour to assist the passivation of the clean stainless steel.

There was some previous confusion on passivating etc, my understanding is that stainless steel will passivate on contact with air but an acidic solution such as StarSan will assist the process. So, I don't think the StarSan is absolutely necessary but it doesn't hurt to do it.


----------



## Bribie G

Yes I think the vessels may be coated with some sort of light oily spray to protect during transit, because when I cleaned mine with TSP the resulting liquid was grey, very grey :blink:
I did a Starsan spray from my general nuke bottle then left the BrewBucket in the sun to dry.


----------



## Crofty

Just placed an order for two of these... Big mistake or greatest decision of my homebrewing life? 

Guess I'll find out soon


----------



## Camo6

You'll love them. I have two of the Brewbuckets and my beers are leaving the fermentor clearer than they ever did in plastic. So easy to clean and put back into service too.


----------



## Cocko

Florian said:


> Aliexpress.
> 
> Also got a sanitary sample valve in the mail yesterday. Easy to pull apart for cleaning and great for sampling and transferring to keg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140904_124954.jpg



Mate, can you please link us to where you got this? - My google machine is wearing out...

Cheers.


----------



## Crofty

Camo6 said:


> You'll love them. I have two of the Brewbuckets and my beers are leaving the fermentor clearer than they ever did in plastic. So easy to clean and put back into service too.


Already impressed with the service. Got an email tonight and they'll ship out Monday.


----------



## SimoB

hi all - I finally have the permission to purchase a brew bucket. woo hoo! Just thought I'd ask how everyone is finding them now the dust has settled. Would you still buy one ???

Simo


----------



## Spiesy

SimoB said:


> hi all - I finally have the permission to purchase a brew bucket. woo hoo! Just thought I'd ask how everyone is finding them now the dust has settled. Would you still buy one ???
> 
> Simo


Put it this way... I have a BrewBucket and a Chronical, and I'm just using the Bucket right now.

Keen as mustard to try the Chronical out, after I mod my fridge to accommodate it, but the BrewBucket certainly has it's advantages - and it shits all over my previous plastic fermenters. No aroma or flavour compounds absorbed. Yeast and trub drops out more effectively. Easier to clean. Highly recommend it.


----------



## SimoB

Spiesy said:


> Put it this way... I have a BrewBucket and a Chronical, and I'm just using the Bucket right now.
> 
> Keen as mustard to try the Chronical out, after I mod my fridge to accommodate it, but the BrewBucket certainly has it's advantages - and it shits all over my previous plastic fermenters. No aroma or flavour compounds absorbed. Yeast and trub drops out more effectively. Easier to clean. Highly recommend it.


Thanks mate. I want to purchase right now and I'm thinking I might. Waiting for the brewmaster for just a thermowell and longer tube seems silly.


----------



## Weizguy

SimoB said:


> Thanks mate. I want to purchase right now and I'm thinking I might. Waiting for the brewmaster for just a thermowell and longer tube seems silly.


and the true conical bottom and ability to draw off ALL the trub


----------



## doon

Seems like brew master only has longer racking arm and thermowell different to standard according to their site


----------



## Bribie G

Love my brewbucket, but as it's a tad smallish compared to my 30L plastics and some of the fermentations can go nuts, so to give more headspace I'm going to try brewing over gravity and "adjust to sales strength", as CUB put it, :blink: on kegging. Probably go for a 17L yield into the keg then 2 litres of deox water.

Losses to sediment are a lot less than my plastic vessels due to the cone feature so I don't think I'll actually need to brew very much over gravity.

I expect the size of the brewbucket is dictated by the American's historic standard batches of five gallons that ain't our five gallons.


----------



## SimoB

Just made the purchase! I keg so happy enough for 18l in the keg.


----------



## Grainer

Only thing stopping me is the loss of valuable fridge space.. going from 90L of brew able space to 40L max


----------



## Spiesy

Grainer said:


> Only thing stopping me is the loss of valuable fridge space.. going from 90L of brew able space to 40L max


Get a new fridge and a Chronical 64. Problem solved


----------



## Grainer

Then ur limited to 1 brew with double batches.. I can ferment about 4 different brews at once with current setup.. they need to build a jerry can setup with similar base to maximise space


----------



## Spiesy

Grainer said:


> Then ur limited to 1 brew with double batches.. I can ferment about 4 different brews at once with current setup.. they need to build a jerry can setup with similar base to maximise space


No they don't mate.


----------



## paulgcorfu

I have a brewbucket and have brewed 3 times in it now,I have found that if I fill to the top line 6 us gallons I can get 20.5 litres out to fill my plastic pin cask with a little tilting of the bucket but still have a small amount of beer above the yeast/trub.
The biggest beer I have brewed was a 1.052 porter and the krausen blew out the airlock so had to use a blowoff tube.
I agree much easier to clean rhan plastic fermenter and less bits to clean than a proper conical


----------



## Spiesy

Yeah, I use a blow off tube exclusively with mine - enables me to make the most of the Bucket's volume.


----------



## CrookedFingers

Spiesy said:


> Put it this way... I have a BrewBucket and a Chronical, and I'm just using the Bucket right now.
> 
> Keen as mustard to try the Chronical out, after I mod my fridge to accommodate it, but the BrewBucket certainly has it's advantages - and it shits all over my previous plastic fermenters. No aroma or flavour compounds absorbed. Yeast and trub drops out more effectively. Easier to clean. Highly recommend it.


As far as the trub dropping out and getting clarity in beers, this is the first sample drawn off after nearly two weeks.
The trub must be packed real nice and tight-like down in the cone !!
I have NEVER had a sample so clear !!
That matters not, taste does.
It tastes great too ! 
Nice hoppy pale ale, trad ale and crystal 120. Hops were Simcoe and Amarillo.






CF


----------



## pat86

I just cleaned mine yesterday (thanks Barleyman)! Doing the Tricleanium soak and then acid rinse. 
After the TSP,the water was definitely grey and had some little blobs of oil that might have congealed a bit that I think I saw. After the acid cleaner, the water turned a blueish tinge. I just filled the bucket both times and gave a good splashing/ wipe down of the outside. 

Can't wait to get it into action! 

Interested to hear from other people with the brew buckets on collecting yeast - what, how and when you turned the racking arm and collected etc?


----------



## tiprya

mckenry said:


> Here you go Nev. Do not print this and put it up in the workshop. Nor can you pin it to the back of your cell mate....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> photo (18).jpg


OT, but where are those tap handles from mate?


----------



## mckenry

tiprya said:


> OT, but where are those tap handles from mate?


I bought them from kegworks in the USA. They're Krone brand I think. They were just north of $170 for the 6 delivered.
Worth every cent


----------



## SimoB

OK. So I have my bucket, and I love it and havent even used it. reading through this thread, there seems to be a lot of different methods for passivation. 

I have on hand Sodium Perc and the kegking phosphoric no rinse sanitiser. Is it possible to passivate with the chemicals I have on hand??

Cheers,
Simo


----------



## Spiesy

I have NEVER seen a yeast cake like this, and this is after a splash of hot water to loosen it up. Love my BrewBucket.


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies

You want fries with that ?


----------



## Florian

Yep, every time I opened the dump valve on my chronical it dispensed a solid yeast sausage which curled up in the container like the perfect frozen joghurt or dog poo. Almost the consistency of play dough.


----------



## Spiesy

Florian said:


> Yep, every time I opened the dump valve on my chronical it dispensed a solid yeast sausage which curled up in the container like the perfect frozen joghurt or dog poo. Almost the consistency of play dough.


Crazy styles.


----------



## Camo6

Spiesy said:


> Crazy styles.


Mad playdough cits.


----------



## Spiesy

So very true, Sir Camalot.


----------



## SimoB

Any idea about my question, can phosphoric acid from keg king passivate the bucket?? Can't wait for yeast poo ... Hmm that's sounds wrong


----------



## Camo6

> Uses for phosphoric acid with stainless steel
> Phosphoric acid is used as a chemical-cleaning agent for stainless steels.
> It is used in commercially available stainless steel cleaning preparations and so if used in accordance with the manufacturers / suppliers instructions will not etch or corrode the steel surface.
> Phosphoric acid is not considered to be a 'passivating' acid but the clean surface left after treatment should allow the stainless steel to naturally self passivate.


----------



## SimoB

Thanks, Camo.

Passivating time.


----------



## Camo6

Just quoting words of the great oracle Google. (Thereby exempting myself from any responsibility in the extremely unlikely event that something on the internet is untrue!)


----------



## mckenry

Hey All,
Ive been searching through heaps of these SS brewtech, chronical type threads looking for a post. I cant remember who, but they linked to an ebay seller, all the butterfly valves you'd need to get sanitary dump and sample triclover fittings.
Can anyone remember where it was posted?
The reason I ask is, I went and bought my own, but I stuffed up in that the butterfly valve I bought for sampling, wont take the racking arm. Its too big.
I want to see it there's another fitting that takes the racking arm, that I can fit up to my purchased butterfly valve.
Cheers,
mckenry


----------



## Florian

not exactly sure how to solve the racking arm issue as mine doesn't fit into the back of my sanitary sample valve either, but another option for transferring to keg could be to take the beer out at the dump valve via a barb or similar. once you have crash chilled for long enough you should be able to get all trub etc out the dump valve, then connect to keg and get every last drop of beer out. 

that still doesn't solve your sampling issue, though. 

have a look on aliexpress and see if you can find something suitable there, that's where I got all my gear from.


----------



## Spiesy

SimoB said:


> Any idea about my question, can phosphoric acid from keg king passivate the bucket?? Can't wait for yeast poo ... Hmm that's sounds wrong


Just get some StarSan mate. Every brewer should have it on hand. A little bottle goes a long way.


----------



## vykuza

Extremely similar, different bottle, half the price!

Actually, I might make a thread and see if we can get some wisdom gathered on the matter.


----------



## mckenry

Florian said:


> not exactly sure how to solve the racking arm issue as mine doesn't fit into the back of my sanitary sample valve either, but another option for transferring to keg could be to take the beer out at the dump valve via a barb or similar. once you have crash chilled for long enough you should be able to get all trub etc out the dump valve, then connect to keg and get every last drop of beer out.
> 
> that still doesn't solve your sampling issue, though.
> 
> have a look on aliexpress and see if you can find something suitable there, that's where I got all my gear from.


Thanks Florian,
I had thought of that, but my first trub and yeast dump was a frigging mess and I didnt get it all out anyway. I was thinking this would just add yeast to my filtering process. I guess I could adjust my numbers wrt equipment and not use the racking arm at all. I.m not sure how many extra L the racking arm can get to anyway?


----------



## Florian

Yep, I won't be using my racking arm either for now. It's seriously only an extra half litre at the most. Have a look at it when the fermenter is empty, it doesn't make much of a difference.
The only real advantage of the racking arm is that the sample comes from in the middle of the fermenter, as opposed to from that triclover port where the beer might not get as much movement.


----------



## Fat Bastard

I made a replica racking arm out of SS tube and welded it into a butterfly valve hole sized bung with an o-ring groove and a small step so it does not slip further down into the butterfly valve. I'd post a picture, but it's submerged in beer at the moment!


----------



## mckenry

Fat Bastard said:


> I made a replica racking arm out of SS tube and welded it into a butterfly valve hole sized bung with an o-ring groove and a small step so it does not slip further down into the butterfly valve. I'd post a picture, but it's submerged in beer at the moment!


Please show us Fat Bastard. Care to make some more for a $ ?


----------



## Fat Bastard

Unfortunately I'll have to say no to making a few more for sale at this point. I don't have the correct grooving tool for the o-ring and grooving stainless with a HSS ground up tool was a pain. I also had to put a chamfer on the valve body for the step to sit in so it wouldn't nip between the tri clovers.

Will post up pics later.

What are you blowoff tube guys doing for the cold crash? I've got a little HEPA disc filter I've been attaching to the blowoff when I've been dumping yeast. I screwed up and left it on for the crash. I'm assuming that it'll only be sucking in and it won't be breathing yeasty CO2 into the disc. Should I chuck it and get a cleanable one?


----------



## Florian

I've been wondering about the same thing for a while. Was determined about getting another one of those (one is on the oxy setup which I don't want to pinch and the other I bought just disappeared...), either the cheap ones (then mark top and bottom as to not mix it up between ferments) or the autoclavable one. 

But lately I thought I might just go down the $7 Kmart water jug route with a bit of silicone hose running of the supplied 90 degree triclover elbow coupled with a triclover barb (all parts due to arrive in a week or so). The idea is that the cooling loss from crash chilling is not big enough to draw the blow off jug sanitiser all the way up into the elbow (and from there into the fermenter), but not sure if I'm correct there. 

Then there's also the issue of dumping. Might do a combo of the two. 

Most importantly I should get brewing to see my new sight glass in action...


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

I think its purely a volume calc, is the shrinkage from cooling in volumetric units equal to the volume of air inside the hose or less. If its more then you will suck in some of the water from the jug.


----------



## Camo6

With my Brewbuckets I'm using a 1/2" hd silicone blowoff hose that's a snug fit into the hole in the lid. When it comes time to CC I swap the hose for a two piece airlock and the supplied bung.
I tried CCing with the blowoffs left in but too much water got sucked up the tube. I didn't realise this the first time I drew a 'clarity' h34r: sample and, due to the slight vacuum inside the bucket, the tap sucked a heap of air right through the brew . I quickly closed the tap and to release the vacuum I pulled the blowoff hose out of the bottle of water only to watch the remaining water in the hose get sucked straight into the bucket! :angry:
For now the two piece airlocks seem to do the trick. Only problem is making sure I don't crash chill too quickly or the water freezes and another vacuum is created. One thing's for sure, those lids hold a seal.


----------



## blekk

Perhaps a spunding valve would be of use?


----------



## Florian

Camo6 said:


> With my Brewbuckets I'm using a 1/2" hd silicone blowoff hose that's a snug fit into the hole in the lid. When it comes time to CC I swap the hose for a two piece airlock and the supplied bung.
> I tried CCing with the blowoffs left in but too much water got sucked up the tube. I didn't realise this the first time I drew a 'clarity' h34r: sample and, due to the slight vacuum inside the bucket, the tap sucked a heap of air right through the brew . I quickly closed the tap and to release the vacuum I pulled the blowoff hose out of the bottle of water only to watch the remaining water in the hose get sucked straight into the bucket! :angry:
> For now the two piece airlocks seem to do the trick. Only problem is making sure I don't crash chill too quickly or the water freezes and another vacuum is created. One thing's for sure, those lids hold a seal.


They sure do hold a seal!

Glad I'm not the only one with those troubles, have done some similar doozies as Camo did. I once sealed the lid port off with a triclover end cap, then crash chilled and a few days later dumped trub. Was wondering why there was nothing coming out of the ball valve, thought the beer close to the valve was frozen, opened the valve even more to increase pressure on the 'frozen bit', was then greeted with a massive trub burst followed by a 3 second break followed by another trub burst.
Realised that air had to enter the vessel somehow in order to let liquid out, similar to a full, open PET bottle held up side down, short bursts of liquid out followed by bursts of air in and repeat.

I might just have to dedicate a Co2 bottle at very low pressure to the lid triclover port in order to deal with all those 'situations'.

EDIT: Insert quote


----------



## Florian

blair, I was going to dismiss you idea until I realised:

Building up pressure during ferment up to only a carefully calculated kPa value (not overshooting manufacturer specs of course), then once crash chilling / drawing a sample / dumping trub 'eating up that build up pressure' in order to dispense from the vessel without getting any externals (air, separate Co2 etc.) into it.

Seems to be a sound idea, will re-think tomorrow once sobered up. The only issue I have is that those spunding valves are so damn hard to 'calibrate' to a certain pressure. Wish they were digital.

Also, dumping trub after no-chilling and before pitching yeast (and therefore no Co2 build up yet) might be an issue, although you could always connect Co2 or better yet O2 to the lid port at that stage.


----------



## Spiesy

Shit, I hadn't thought of that. Looks like I've got a little StarSan in my Belgian Pale Ale. 

At least my insides will be clean after emptying that keg.


----------



## blekk

Florian said:


> Also, dumping trub after no-chilling and before pitching yeast (and therefore no Co2 build up yet) might be an issue, although you could always connect Co2 or better yet O2 to the lid port at that stage.


I was thinking along the same lines florian. I also have a cross piece and was thinking about including a quick connect so co2 could be pumped in for transfer but would also work for dumping...... hmmm or maybe a vacuum relief??


----------



## mckenry

I have a super long blowoff tube for the crash chill. Water is sucked up somewhat, but didnt reach the brew. I assume the headspace doesnt shrink enough to create enough 'vacuum suck' to bring the water that far. Its about 1m I guess.
For transfer I use CO2 via the same blowoff tube.


----------



## MastersBrewery

During CC why not attach co2 regulated at 4 psi or so, would certainly solve vacuum issues, I note I've seen systems setup with spunding and co2 attached, perhaps the best overall solution when each are set at appropriate pressures.


----------



## pat86

So has anyone had great success removing yeast from a BrewBucket without the use of anything fancy?

E.g. maybe aiming the racking arm down after say 4-5 days, letting some of the break material out. Then waiting for fermentation to finish a week or so later, and then sucking some of the yeast out to rinse?

Or is it better just to wait until end of ferment as normal, rack off beer then scoop some yeast out ala florian?


----------



## Camo6

I don't think I'd reach any yeast early on with the standard racking arm. Maybe with the extended arm you could. My only hesitation would be turning the tap early in the ferment as I've induced slight leaks from the tap o ring from doing this. Its probably a case of me overtightening the nut but its not something you want to happen with a full bucket.
I did a CPA the other day with recultured yeast and mixed a couple of jars of sterile water with the yeast cake and poured it back into the jars from the tap. Too easy.


----------



## Spiesy

pat86 said:


> Or is it better just to wait until end of ferment as normal, rack off beer then scoop some yeast out ala florian?


This. If you want to be able to dump yeast, you'd be better off with a Chronical. 

I'd also be concerned about yeast blocking the tap, if you'd crash chilled and were trying to remove said yeast through the tap.


----------



## sluggerdog

By any chance does anyone have a brew bucket in a Westinghouse RA 140 MR bar fridge? My current fermenting fridge is too small so to be able to get a brew bucket I must change the fridge first. Found one of these online but from the photos it doesn't look big enough.


----------



## TSMill

sluggerdog said:


> By any chance does anyone have a brew bucket in a Westinghouse RA 140 MR bar fridge? My current fermenting fridge is too small so to be able to get a brew bucket I must change the fridge first. Found one of these online but from the photos it doesn't look big enough.


Hey mate, I've got the RA 141 SR with the door shelving removed, and one fits. From what I can find the external dimensions are the same, so unless yours has a larger freezer and/or compressor, you should be ok.


----------



## sluggerdog

TSMill said:


> Hey mate, I've got the RA 141 SR with the door shelving removed, and one fits. From what I can find the external dimensions are the same, so unless yours has a larger freezer and/or compressor, you should be ok.


Great Thanks.

Here's some photos of the one I am looking at. How does it compare to yours?






AND


----------



## TSMill

Looks about the same. I think the base dimensions (area in front of compressor hump) is the key. If a 30l fermenter fiTS in that space (ex tap) then you will be fine.


----------



## sluggerdog

sluggerdog said:


> By any chance does anyone have a brew bucket in a *Westinghouse RA 140 MR* bar fridge? My current fermenting fridge is too small so to be able to get a brew bucket I must change the fridge first. Found one of these online but from the photos it doesn't look big enough.





TSMill said:


> Looks about the same. I think the base dimensions (area in front of compressor hump) is the key. If a 30l fermenter fiTS in that space (ex tap) then you will be fine.



I had the seller check out the internal dimensions for me. They said the following:



> internal dimensions are as follows. 400 deep 590 high and 430 wide. The compressor hump starts at 290deep and is approx350 at highest point (tapered).


I guess the compressor takes up more room then you fridge, it doesn't look like this one will fit the brew bucket due to the depth.

Thanks


----------



## TSMill

The brewbucket is I think 260mm diameter at the base. My rough measure was 300mm in front of the compressor and fits fine.


----------



## brewchampion

Im doing my first double batch in a pair of ss buckets from grain and grape.
Very happy so far.
But at first i had issue getting the pickup into the tap without the orings sliding over it. I ended up warping my orings.
Garry from ss Brewtech was very helpfull and sent some extras out to me quickly (Thanks heaps!)
and the second lot fitted in ok.
Although its definitely easier fitting the pickup tube in to the tap before putting it into the fermenter!


I have two buckets which I store on top of each other inside my fridge (awsome!)
however, when I switched them over so the one at the bottom was now on the top, I lost seal on my top one, so had to put a bit of card under the latch (weird)


----------



## Spiesy

brewchampion said:


> Im doing my first double batch in a pair of ss buckets from grain and grape.
> Very happy so far.
> But at first i had issue getting the pickup into the tap without the orings sliding over it. I ended up warping my orings.
> Garry from ss Brewtech was very helpfull and sent some extras out to me quickly (Thanks heaps!)
> and the second lot fitted in ok.
> Although its definitely easier fitting the pickup tube in to the tap before putting it into the fermenter!
> 
> 
> I have two buckets which I store on top of each other inside my fridge (awsome!)
> however, when I switched them over so the one at the bottom was now on the top, I lost seal on my top one, so had to put a bit of card under the latch (weird)


Grain & Grape don't do Ss BrewTech, do they?

Cannot find it on their site.


----------



## doon

I couldnt either and havent seen them in there


----------



## Spiesy

I think our misguided friend actually purchased these from us


----------



## Bribie G

Brewbucket: Couple of items: bad news then good.

I'm finding that when I rotate the racking arm the tap hole starts leaking (more like a slow bleed) with a little rivulet of beer running down to the tip of the cone and dripping off. Not a big problem as it's just happened during kegging. But today I pitched a brew then when I came back in half an hour there was a little pool of wort - probably just a teaspoons worth - right under the cone "point". Remembering the racking arm thing I rotated the tap a couple of degrees and all sweet now.

I've got a three piece ball valve and just trying to track down a bulkhead adaptor to screw it into, so no problem in the future hopefully but just wondering if other users have had a "bleed" situation from the tap hole using the supplied tap and washers.

Hey, I've set up a blow tube and it's good to note that the hose that I bought for the hose tail on the tap also perfectly fits the supplied bung of the brewbucket. Neat as. Kitten drowning pool hey. 






Still at ambient here 19 degrees in garage but not for much longer.


----------



## Andy_Chil

Has anybody had an issue trying to get the racking arm into the tap?
I might have missed something, but I can't seem to get the bugger in without completely warping the two little o rings. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## Weizguy

Bribie, I had the very same issue, with my first lager in the Brewbucket. Just tightened up the valve and decided not to use it again.
I rack with an auto siphon, which I may have mentioned elsewhere.


----------



## Newerabrewing

Andy_Chil said:


> Has anybody had an issue trying to get the racking arm into the tap?
> I might have missed something, but I can't seem to get the bugger in without completely warping the two little o rings. What am I doing wrong?


Hi All

If the tube will not fit into the tap without the o,rings warping and you have tried everything with no avail then please get in contact with whoever you purchased it from and we can sort it out for you.


----------



## antiphile

I bought 2 brewbuckets and just love them. I had the same issue with the tap leaking on one, but I know it's my fault because I didn't remove them to rinse and flush and spray them between batch one and two.

However, my whinge (that I haven't seen any others reporting) is the fragility of the silicon bung. After 2 batches in each, they both showed signs of splitting in the area where the bungs contact the hole in the lid. So now I just cover the hole with starsanned cling wrap pushed in to block it off instead of using airlocks. Yet, I would have assumed they would be a little sturdier than that.

Cheers
Phil


----------



## Newerabrewing

antiphile said:


> I bought 2 brewbuckets and just love them. I had the same issue with the tap leaking on one, but I know it's my fault because I didn't remove them to rinse and flush and spray them between batch one and two.
> 
> However, my whinge (that I haven't seen any others reporting) is the fragility of the silicon bung. After 2 batches in each, they both showed signs of splitting in the area where the bungs contact the hole in the lid. So now I just cover the hole with starsanned cling wrap pushed in to block it off instead of using airlocks. Yet, I would have assumed they would be a little sturdier than that.
> 
> Cheers
> Phil


Hi Phil
This is another one I have not heard of and again if you think something isn't holding up then please let me or whoever you bought off know as we can make some arrangements to rectify.

Happy to help you out with some new bungs as they should defiantly last more then two brews. My original sample unit has had about 10 through on same bung.

Cheers

Gary


----------



## antiphile

Hi Gary

I'm not seeking a replacement because I can't totally rule out pushing them in a bit too far to ensure a good seal (and then even further by placing the airlocks in them). So taking them out may have caused the problem.

But, I've still got them and I'll send you some pics tomorrow to your website email address just to show what I'm talking about.

Cheers and thanks for your kind offer and quick response
Phil


----------



## paulgcorfu

reading on the american home brew talk forum .I believe there was some problems with the bung and the manufacturers have upgraded to a harder compound bung now to stop this problem.


----------



## pat86

Hey Slugger, hope this isn't too late for ya, but that fridge looks just like mine. I had to do a bit of surgery and slice some of the middle door shelf off to fit the bucket in. It has very annoying door shelves so I'd been meaning to remove all of them but left things to pitching time and just rambo'd the thing with my fishing knife. 

I'm also contemplating getting rid if the freezer section though unsure if this will create tonnes of condensation drippage?


----------



## mckenry

Question time - maybe more 'Statement' time.
I have the 17 Gal.
I've noticed ferments are taking longer than in my round fermenters, either plastic of SS keg.

Nothing springs to mind as to why, except the surface area of the compacted yeast to wort.

All else remains the same - SG, volume, O2, pitch rate (as best I can do with yeastcalc) and of course FG. - Its possible Im getting a point or two lower, but my eyes arent that good these days and I dont think the delay in reaching stable FG is 1 or 2 points.

Now the stranger part - the ferments seem stronger - i.e. blowoff goes harder, bubble rate is increased for sure.

It just goes longer, as in days longer to reach FG.

The resultant 3 beers (small sample pool I know) are very very good, so I am happy with the results, just perplexed as to why they look faster and stronger, yet take longer.

Anyone else experiencing this? I may have to adjust brewing schedule if all ferments are going to take 4 or 5 days longer.

On a side note - how is everyone going dumping yeast? I am a long way from perfecting it. I seem to get a lot of beer and bugger all yeast out. I use the bend too if that makes a difference? I saw Florian dumps vertically.


----------



## sav

I don't know if it been said here but the bungs can be replaced by a ss skin fitting I got 2 from eBay from boat hardware with a barb. 
Sav.


----------



## TidalPete

Careless me has lost the ss lock nut that holds the ss valve onto the Brew Bucket. 

I have organised for the purchase of another valve complete with nut, O-rings, etc but a couple of spare lock nuts would not go astray.

TTBOMK the thread is 3\8” NPT as a 3\8” BSP nut will not screw on & the market was originally directed at the Yanks ITFP.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?

If the nut is 3\8" NPT then a link to a website that sells them would be much appreciated remembering that these ss lock nuts are grooved on one side to hold the O-ring securely in place.
Tried Evilbay without much success.


----------



## TidalPete

TidalPete said:


> Careless me has lost the ss lock nut that holds the ss valve onto the Brew Bucket.
> 
> I have organised for the purchase of another valve complete with nut, O-rings, etc but a couple of spare lock nuts would not go astray.
> TTBOMK the thread is 3\8” NPT as a 3\8” BSP nut will not screw on & the market was originally directed at the Yanks ITFP.
> Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
> If the nut is 3\8" NPT then a link to a website that sells them would be much appreciated remembering that these ss lock nuts are grooved on one side to hold the O-ring securely in place.
> Tried Evilbay without much success.


Bumping for the weekend mob.
It may be YOU who loses his Brew Bucket locknut next time so any info is important to all of us.
There's no point in having a BB ball valve without a locknut so a spare locknut (or two) will always come in handy.
Just saying. :icon_cheers:


----------



## billygoat

TidalPete said:


> Careless me has lost the ss lock nut that holds the ss valve onto the Brew Bucket.
> 
> I have organised for the purchase of another valve complete with nut, O-rings, etc but a couple of spare lock nuts would not go astray.
> 
> TTBOMK the thread is 3\8” NPT as a 3\8” BSP nut will not screw on & the market was originally directed at the Yanks ITFP.
> Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
> 
> If the nut is 3\8" NPT then a link to a website that sells them would be much appreciated remembering that these ss lock nuts are grooved on one side to hold the O-ring securely in place.
> Tried Evilbay without much success.


Pete,
Can confirm they are 3/8 NPT.
Can't give you a link where to buy them though.
In the past I have used BSP and run a NPT tap through them, works ok but only if you have the tap.


----------



## Bribie G

Pete I have a 3 piece ball valve assembly now, you are most welcome to the old assembly, but first *let me test the new one for leaks. * 

How many taps does one man need? Happy to post but as I said I'll check first.


----------



## TSMill

Are the nuts really grooved on one side? I recall mine looking quite symmetrical.


----------



## Camo6

Yeah, both sides are bevelled to accomodate the o ring on my buckets.

I've considered going down the 3pc route due to sporadic leaks but don't want to lose the pick up tube. Spose there's no harm tilting it for the last few mls.


----------



## Bribie G

Pete, new assembly is leaking at the bulkhead, but I forgot to buy o rings / washers when I was at Pirtek getting the bulkhead fitting and tail, so I'm using the washers from the original BrewTech valve but I seem to need something a bit more robust. .

Will get me to Pirtek or Bunnings tomorrow then report back in the afternoon.



Edit: when you are in tradie places like Pirtek they assume, when you front the counter, that you know exactly what you are doing and what precise parts you are after :lol: :lol:


----------



## TidalPete

Bribie G said:


> Pete, new assembly is leaking at the bulkhead, but I forgot to buy o rings / washers when I was at Pirtek getting the bulkhead fitting and tail, so I'm using the washers from the original BrewTech valve but I seem to need something a bit more robust. .
> 
> Will get me to Pirtek or Bunnings tomorrow then report back in the afternoon.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: when you are in tradie places like Pirtek they assume, when you front the counter, that you know exactly what you are doing and what precise parts you are after :lol:


Offer gratefully accepted mate but no need to post  (pending your successful 3-piece ball valve rehabilitation of course) 
The main reason why I didn't get a 3-piece was the problem of the locking nut not being recessed & spreading the O-ring whilst tightening.
Can you please try sealing (from the inside) using (lubed) O-ring -- flat ss washer -- locknut, in that order & tell us how you get on?


----------



## Bribie G

Will get a flat SS washer, alone amongst every 60++ in Australia, I don't have lots of jars of every nut, bolt, screw and washer ever produced in labelled jam jars affixed to a wooden rack by means of a screw through the lid of the jar. Oh my wasted life.


:lol: :lol:


----------



## Online Brewing Supplies

I keep my balls in one of those jars so the missus doesnt put them back in her handbag.
Nev


----------



## spog

I listened to the Beer Smith podcast #91 about fermentation and the guest Chris Graham gives the Brew Bucket and Chronical a good wrap.
He talks briefly about them near the 6 minute mark from the end of the podcast.
Cheers....spog..


----------



## CrookedFingers

AAAAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHH !

Idiot.






Anyone else forgotten to put this in ?
Spose it won't make a huge difference.
Will have to be careful when kegging it.


CF


----------



## TidalPete

> Anyone else forgotten to put this in ?
> Spose it won't make a huge difference.
> Will have to be careful when kegging it.


Without it it's just another fermenter albeit stainless.
Your beer will turn out pretty much how you planned but without the advantage of siphoning off the yeast somewhere along the line.
Assuming that you cold crash, if you need to get your full keg volume just tilt the BB or do a slightly bigger volume next time to allow for dry hopping etc, of course.

You seem to be missing an O-ring there CF. 

Just don't loose the valve lock nut like I did. That causes lots of hassles & hand-wringing.


----------



## CrookedFingers

No worries hey, just feel silly. Not doing things properly irks me.
Ah well. 

Those tiny o rings easy to source ?
Admittedly I haven't tried yet, but any info to make my life easier would be awesome !

Cheers


CF


----------



## TidalPete

BB O-ring kits are available from your BB supplier CF.
Pirtek supplied mine when I took a sample before the supplier started stocking them.


----------



## CrookedFingers

Sweet as.
Thanks Pete 


CF


----------



## GalBrew

How does the thermowell go with these things? Is anyone measuring wort temp to see if there is a difference in what the temp controller says compared to the wort itself?


----------



## CrookedFingers

I have the thermowell, set 1/3 of the way up the bucket...or there abouts.
I'm not taking any comparison measurements, just trusting that the probe is in there and set at 18, so the wort is at 18.
In happy with how m beers ferment out so not about to start faffing around with tests.



CF


----------



## GalBrew

I only ask as I recently put a thermowell in my plastic fermenter and there is quite a temp difference, especially in the active phase of fermentation (up to 1.8 degrees above what my STC-1000 reads). This can have quite a large impact on your finished beer and I am not that pleased. At least when I taped the probe to the side the wort was usually a touch cooler than the STC read not hotter (which is better IMHO). Not that this is strictly a BB issue. 

Is anyone taping the probe to the side of the bucket and measuring wort temps?


----------



## CrookedFingers

I get what you mean now !
There are only a few of us who use thermowells, me from the side of the fermenter and maybe two or more with them dropping down from the lid.
Most others still tape or strap it to the side.

We all still make great beer no matter the temp measuring method I reckon.


CF


----------



## blekk

Has anyone else tried fermenting under pressure in their Chronical? I've got a cider on the go atm and am finding the pressure won't rise above 1.2psi. When I gently press on the edge of the lid I can hear gas escaping. I know it's not a pressure vessel but you would think it would be able to hold 5psi as per manufacturers transfer guidelines.

Not a massive deal just a little something I thought I'd mention.


----------



## Spiesy

blair said:


> Has anyone else tried fermenting under pressure in their Chronical? I've got a cider on the go atm and am finding the pressure won't rise above 1.2psi. When I gently press on the edge of the lid I can hear gas escaping. I know it's not a pressure vessel but you would think it would be able to hold 5psi as per manufacturers transfer guidelines.
> 
> Not a massive deal just a little something I thought I'd mention.


Be very careful. Anything above 5psi and you risk damaging your unit and voiding your warranty. 

I would only use pressure for transferring.


----------



## blekk

Cheers Spiesy  I guess 1.2 will have to do.


----------



## sav

I can smell the 17 gallon ,I have a feeling of a courier tomorrow. 
Sav


----------



## HeavyNova

My first brew for my Chronical is about one week into the ferment. I didn't know I could love stainless steel so much!


----------



## Cocko

Wait until you fall in love with cleaning it :blink:

No joke, it becomes another process that you will enjoy - well I do... 



Shut up - you cant judge me.


----------



## sav

Monday for me I just want too see it. 
I've always been inpatient. 
Sav


----------



## sav

HeavyNova said:


> My first brew for my Chronical is about one week into the ferment. I didn't know I could love stainless steel so much!


----------



## sav

Do you feel like a pro now lol. 
7 or 17 mate. 
Sav


----------



## HeavyNova

Haha yeah, I feel a little closer to the pros. Should wait for the results before I get too carried away though.

I have the 7 Gal.

Yeah Cocko, I'm actually looking forward to cleaning it! First time I've ever looked forward to cleaning....


----------



## Wolfman

I feel like one of the cool kids now!


----------



## Spiesy

Wolfman said:


> I feel like one of the cool kids now!


Lol. Welcome aboard!


----------



## Florian

Did my 2nd pressure transfer about two weeks ago, this time without filtering and straight to keg via the sanitary sample valve.


----------



## Spiesy

Florian said:


> Did my 2nd pressure transfer about two weeks ago, this time without filtering and straight to keg via the sanitary sample valve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DSC_0097.JPG


Good Lord!


----------



## 620rossco

17 Gallon arrived earlier this week.
Very nice, cheers mate.

Rossco


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Florian said:


> Did my 2nd pressure transfer about two weeks ago, this time without filtering and straight to keg via the sanitary sample valve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DSC_0097.JPG


What the actual ****?

Mate that's incredible!!! Why is there a tap tee'd off your liquid transfer line?


----------



## Florian

It's not tee'd off the transfer line, it's just attached to the keg (it's one of my party kegs) . The liquid line that comes off the tap usually just attaches to a QD.


----------



## sav

I can't find these sample valves bud. 
Sav
Oh and I have a 17 gallon turned up this week. Thanks GARRY.


----------



## Florian

Oh shyte, you sent me a pm ages ago, didn't you? Sorry mate, completely lost track:

Take your pick

Actually, this here is the one I ordered. It didn't come with the elliptical handle as pictured but rather with a round one. Looks shinier in reality than on the ebay pics.


----------



## Florian

As for the other gear, sight tube, butterfly valves etc (see pics page 11 and following) I got that from this mob.

They don't have everything 'on display', but I just told them what exactly I wanted as they had some stuff that others hadn't and they sent everything together via SF Express, or you can just go slow mail for even cheaper. Easy to deal with as long as you are precise with what you want and how you want it (applies to 99% of chinese suppliers).


----------



## huez

Florian said:


> As for the other gear, sight tube, butterfly valves etc (see pics page 11 and following) I got that from this mob.
> 
> They don't have everything 'on display', but I just told them what exactly I wanted as they had some stuff that others hadn't and they sent everything together via SF Express, or you can just go slow mail for even cheaper. Easy to deal with as long as you are precise with what you want and how you want it (applies to 99% of chinese suppliers).


hey mate where did you get/what are those tube reducer things you have? going from the 1/2inch silicone hose to your gas hose?


----------



## Black n Tan

huez said:


> hey mate where did you get/what are those tube reducer things you have? going from the 1/2inch silicone hose to your gas hose?


you can get them from Andale

http://www.andale.com.au/beer-dispensing-equipment/tubing-python-joiners


----------



## Florian

huez said:


> hey mate where did you get/what are those tube reducer things you have? going from the 1/2inch silicone hose to your gas hose?





Black n Tan said:


> you can get them from Andale
> 
> http://www.andale.com.au/beer-dispensing-equipment/tubing-python-joiners



Nah, not Andale.

They're those things (not 100% sure if correct size).

I have used them for years transferring from fermenter to keg, just push silicone hose onto fermenter tap and attach beer line to JG adapter. 
Exactly like this, actually. 




It sits a little loose on the sanitary sample valve, hence the cable tie. That way no air gets sucked into the line.


----------



## Wolfman

Righty O. Pitched my first batch into the new brewbucket. Had a bit of over flow from the aeration of the wort, tipped it in as per normal. Waited for the foam to dissipate before pitching the yeast. Nervous times I tell ya.

Anyone keen to share how they do it without spilling foam everywhere?


----------



## Camo6

With starsan and a clean wipe! I now try and tip in a cube with minimal splashing (pretty unavoidable though) and the odd spray of starsan to reduce the foam. Then the lid goes on and I drop the airstone in the bunghole (hehehe). Add o2 and as the foam comes out the hole I try and disperse it with starsan and wipe up the mess with paper towel or similar. So you could say I need TP for my bunghole.
Keen to hear others approaches too.


----------



## Spiesy

Aerate gently and don't overfill your bucket.


----------



## Yob

Aah, the immortal bungholio.. 

Sorry, cams fault..


----------



## huez

cheers for that florian!


----------



## sav

Great brew day today 60lts in too bed. Pics too come thanks pete. 
Florian I have done a order through that link on eBay how long for delivery. 
Sav


----------



## TidalPete

Getting a little battered here so apologies if some pics of Sav's Big (conical) Brewday present sideways.
So jealous but everything's


----------



## Florian

Nice one sav! Hope you gave those ball locks a good clean beforehand though.

Delivery on that sanitary sample valve was just under two weeks, but better to expect 3 and a half and then be pleasantly surprised if it comes earlier. Not that you could change it over half way through ferment anyway.


----------



## Fat Bastard

I think I read a while back about someone having problems with pressure transfers.

Well I am too. My 7 gal wouldn't hold enough pressure to initiate the transfer ( fermenter higher than the keg, transferred via 8mm OD beer line) and would leak gas pretty much from the get-go. Pressure was so low it wouldn't register on the regulator. I eventually fixed it by wedging bottle caps under the clamp wires, which of course bent the shitter out of them (caps and wires) and even then would only hold around 1.5 PSI, which seemed adequate for the transfer. I've now re-bent the wire clamps to provide more force, although it remains to be seen if this will be adequate.

I'm currently using a sample valve similar to what I've seen Florian using with a modified racking arm (3/8 SS) and try to transfer via the beer out post on the keg so I knew I'd need some gas once the head of pressure got too low to let it flow under gravity, but it would have been nice to not have to frig around with the clamps to make it happen.

New design seal in the offing yet?


----------



## sluggerdog

Howdy,

I've just received my brewmaster bucket and have an APA fermenting away nicely at the moment. I was wondering if because of the Stainless fermenter, racking arm and cone bottom that maybe I could skip adding gelatine to my kegging process?

My existing process is as follows:

- Ferment for 10 days
- Cold crash for 4 days
- Keg with gelatine
- Force Carb
- The beer is ok that day but within a week it's bright clear

I was hoping from what I have read I may be able to do this now:

- Ferment for 10 days
- Cold crash for 4 days
- Keg, no gelatine (the stainless fermenter (previously plastic) + racking arm helps with removing the yeast I would normally get and have gelatine remove)
- Force Carb and enjoy


Anyone else noticed they can skip finings / gelatine since going to a brewbucket / conical etc?

Thanks


----------



## blekk

Fat Bastard said:


> I think I read a while back about someone having problems with pressure transfers.
> 
> Well I am too. My 7 gal wouldn't hold enough pressure to initiate the transfer ( fermenter higher than the keg, transferred via 8mm OD beer line) and would leak gas pretty much from the get-go. Pressure was so low it wouldn't register on the regulator. I eventually fixed it by wedging bottle caps under the clamp wires, which of course bent the shitter out of them (caps and wires) and even then would only hold around 1.5 PSI, which seemed adequate for the transfer. I've now re-bent the wire clamps to provide more force, although it remains to be seen if this will be adequate.
> 
> I'm currently using a sample valve similar to what I've seen Florian using with a modified racking arm (3/8 SS) and try to transfer via the beer out post on the keg so I knew I'd need some gas once the head of pressure got too low to let it flow under gravity, but it would have been nice to not have to frig around with the clamps to make it happen.
> 
> New design seal in the offing yet?


That was me FB. Not transferring under pressure but fermenting under pressure. I was only able to hold 1.2psi and when pushing gently (clamping down) on the lid around the edge I could hear gas escaping from the seal, then when fermentation started to slow pressure dropped back to 0.

I was thinking perhaps a drum clamp would work but there doesn't seem to be enough of a lip around the body to clamp down on. I'm going to see if some Food Lube will help the situation next brew but I doubt it.


----------



## Fat Bastard

Yeah, I don't think food lube will cut it. What it really needs is better clamps that can provide useful force, and/or a fatter seal. I know where I can get a food grade silicone seal made locally, but their prices are eye-wateringly expensive. I might enquire to see how much it will cost to make a few up if it's not stupidly expensive.


----------



## Florian

My seal seems to hold up well, not that I have paid particular attention to it though, but increasing pressure did also lead to increased transfer speed, even when pushing the beer through a filter, so it seems to be all good.

have you tried turning your fermenter upside down when cleaning (with a triclover end cap or bung attached to the lid port)? I know that mine doesn't leek that way, although this doesn't really resemble a pressure situation, but if your leaks than that's a dead giveaway that something is not right. 

If you are convinced that you don't get a decent seal then I would contact your retailer and see what they say, it might just be a matter of exchanging the seal.

As for making one yourself, possible, I recently played around with RTV-2 silicone on another project, and since I had a little left over I made a triclover seal by filling the liquid silicone between two end caps. The trick in your case is to obviously get a got enough cast which even with some alginate might be a bit difficult to achieve as you need a correctly sized seal to begin with. Plus, the RTV-2 silicone seems to be hellishly expensive here in Australia (prob why the place you know is expensive too). I ended up sourcing mine from Germany from silikonfabrik.de for about half the price delivered. 

All a bit too much hassle for a fermenter seal really, I would just contact the retailer or distributor and go from there. They are advertised to hold up to 5 psi after all.


----------



## Fat Bastard

Yeah, I think that ideally the manufacturer should come to the party with a thicker seal, but as pressurised ferments and transfers are relatively esoteric at the cheaper end of the market, the vast majority of purchasers will be happy with the way it works as-is. The guys I know do all manner of silicone extrusion and I'm hoping that they'll have something off the shelf that can be obtained by the metre and joined with CA (super glue) type adhesive. We use similar methods at work to make similar, but larger seals. Given that we just bought 6m of pharma grade 3/4 polyester reinforced silicone tube for about $1500, it ain't going to be cheap.


----------



## mckenry

Fat Bastard said:


> Yeah, I think that ideally the manufacturer should come to the party with a thicker seal.


I'd buy one. Mine loses pressure when transferring. Hard to get all the beer through the filter.
Would a second same sized seal, seal properly? Or would they just kink on each other?


----------



## Camo6

What about shimming the top of the lid with a ring of plastic or steel? Similar to your bottle cap trick FB but would spread the load a bit.


----------



## hotmelt

What about pulling a vacuum through the gas post.


----------



## Black n Tan

SS Brewtech claim that "If you plan to do pressurized transfers from your ChronicalTM fermenter, be sure NOT TO EXCEED 5PSI. Pressures beyond 5 psi are both dangerous and potentially damaging to your fermenter." I therefore think it is reasonable to assume that the SS conical should hold pressure to 5psi. If it does't take it up with the retailer.

I almost purchase an SS conical, but in the end went with a stout tank, for three reasons: 1/ it had more head space and 2/ I was worried that the latch design of the SS con would be inferior to the ring clamp, although I do fight with my ring clamp on occasions 3/ I was lucky enough to be offered a Stout Tank at the same price as the SS conical (sorry guys these were the last ones from someones bulk order). Stout Tanks claim that there tanks can handle 4psi for transfer. I recently contacted them to see if it was possible to pressure ferment in them or pressure cold crash at 4psi, and they thought it would hold pressure but no-one had tried it. I gave it a go and it worked fine, no leaks over 7 days at 4psi. That said Stout Tank usually retail for almost double the SS conical in this country, so I think the SS conicals offer good value for money, but if they make a claim they should be held to it.


----------



## mckenry

yep, i reckon mine starts to leak at about 2psi. Hard to tell on the gauge though as I imaging the accuracy isnt great. Its below 5 though.


----------



## Weizguy

> Righty O. Pitched my first batch into the new brewbucket. Had a bit of over flow from the aeration of the wort, tipped it in as per normal. Waited for the foam to dissipate before pitching the yeast. Nervous times I tell ya.
> 
> Anyone keen to share how they do it without spilling foam everywhere?


Decrease batch size


----------



## Dan Pratt

My SS brewbucket arrived and is going under the Xmas tree.......come on Christmas Day! :super:


----------



## Feldon

Pratty1 said:


> My SS brewbucket arrived and is going under the Xmas tree.......come on Christmas Day! :super:


Christmas trees are full of wild yeast. Then there's that grubby old bloke in a red suit and a filthy white beard full of biscuit crumbs who'll have his hands all over it on Chrissy Eve.

Better open it now and start using it before it becomes contaminated.


----------



## Weizguy

> My SS brewbucket arrived and is going under the Xmas tree.......come on Christmas Day! :super:


Is it a glycol-cooled Christmas tree?


----------



## Dan Pratt

Les the Weizguy said:


> Is it a glycol-cooled Christmas tree?


my wife is quite accepting of my hobby but to have a glycol-cooled tree would require some in depth conversation........


----------



## blekk

Put another batch down yesterday and had a play with the spunding valve today. Managed to hold a stable 4psi with a little bleed on the valve.


----------



## blekk

Quick question for all you chronical owners. Are your clamp and clamp wires tight when closed on the lid? When my lid is locked down I have some slack in the clamp and clamp wire.


----------



## sav

Your clamps loose a bit of tension. Grab 2 screw drivers one horizontal and the other vertical and hook and bend. It's on there website. 
Sav


----------



## Cocko

As a user:

I really love my Chronical, 26L - It is just fun. I am sure you all agree after building something or throwing a bit of coin at it, for your own beery benefit, you take ownership.

As I have said before - even cleaning it becomes a fun part.

Well, brewing in the 26L Chronny is just plain rad- you some how care about everything - Temp. attachments, Cleaning, yeast health etc...

Not just Ss stuff but I am saying its cool when you make a new piece of the puzzle, it is all of a sudden SO important... or just plain fun.

Again, as a user - Go Ss.




And jyo - eabod.


----------



## Black n Tan

blair said:


> Put another batch down yesterday and had a play with the spunding valve today. Managed to hold a stable 4psi with a little bleed on the valve.


Hi blair, where did you source the triclamp spunding valve? Looks like nice one.

EDIT: typo


----------



## blekk

Black n Tan said:


> Hi blair, where did you source the triclamp spunding valve? Looks like nice one.
> 
> EDIT: typo


[SIZE=11pt]The spunding is a home job. Couldn’t find one at a reasonable price so built this up for about $50.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]Gauge - [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]SWAGELOK - PGI-63C-PC30-LAOX INDUSTRIAL PRESSURE GAUGE 1/4" NPT Male 30/30[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]Relief Valve - [/SIZE]
[SIZE=11pt]Control Devices CR Series Brass Pressure Relief Valve, 0-100 psi Adjustable[/SIZE]

Triclamp – 
½” with BSP thread. The T piece is ¼” NPT female, female, male to match the gauge and relief valve threads (they’re both NPT). I had the BSP reducing bush lying around but had to tap the ¼” BSP to NPT to fit the T piece. Thread tape is O2 thread tape.

Over all I’m happy with the setup however I’m going to change out the spring in the relief valve after this batch as I’ve found it doesn’t pop off and snap shut properly until around the 40psi mark (tested before using it so I wouldn’t ruin the new toy!). Below 40psi it opens but doesn’t close so I have just been letting it bleed very lightly to accommodate the 5psi of the chronical (keeping it around 3-4psi on the gauge). The one good thing about the light bleed is I can tell when the ferment has finished as the pressure starts to drop off, then I just screw the relief all the way in and let it sit slightly pressurised.


----------



## mckenry

Hey Blair. Genuine question. Not taking the piss. Why use a spunding valve at all? If u close off the blow off/airlock the built in relief should let co2 escape at 5psi anyway? Or doesn't yours have one?


----------



## mckenry

Oh. I just read your second in depth post. I understand what you're doing now but why not just let the built in safety so it's job at 5psi?


----------



## Florian

built in safety? Are you talking about the lid clamps?

Or do you have something on your 17gal that we 7galers don't have?


----------



## mckenry

Florian said:


> built in safety? Are you talking about the lid clamps?
> 
> Or do you have something on your 17gal that we 7galers don't have?


OK. Yeah the 17 has a small spring loaded pressure relief 'knob' that lets go at 5psi. Well I thought it was 5psi from the chit chat here. It's in the lid. Not on the 7?


----------



## mckenry

That's what I use to purge the headspace after oxygenating the wort and fitting the lid. Hook up the co2 to the blowoff, pressurise the fermenter, release the air. Repeat until I'm happy it's only co2 coming out of the relief.


----------



## blekk

No, don't have that on the 7's, would be great tho. I haven't got too many brews under my belt with the new bit of kit (I also certainly don't have the experience that others around here have) but I know 4psi is probably doing very little (I read somewhere 15 is the optimal pressure??) I figured if I'm going to have some bling I may as well pimp it up and make it look impressive


----------



## blekk

mckenry said:


> That's what I use to purge the headspace after oxygenating the wort and fitting the lid. Hook up the co2 to the blowoff, pressurise the fermenter, release the air. Repeat until I'm happy it's only co2 coming out of the relief.


Co2 is heavier then air so shouldn't need to 'burp' multiple times when flushing. All I do is run a gas line in through the top port and flush for about 10 secs, seal her up and let it do its thang. Even if there is a small amount of air trapped it will sit above the co2 layer and be pushed out when the ferment kicks off.


----------



## mckenry

Yep. When I say repeat- it means once or twice. I would only gas up for 6 or 7 seconds. I just like to be 100% sure no air is in there ever. Just coz I can with the chronical.


----------



## HeavyNova

Cleaned mine after bottling on the weekend...

Got the vast majority of crud off with a just a hose, then all she needed was gentle wipe to remove the remaining stuff! About 1,000,000 times better than cleaning out the Willow jerry can with a sponge on a stick, like I used to!


----------



## bullsneck

mckenry said:


> That's what I use to purge the headspace after oxygenating the wort and fitting the lid. Hook up the co2 to the blowoff, pressurise the fermenter, release the air. Repeat until I'm happy it's only co2 coming out of the relief.





blair said:


> Co2 is heavier then air so shouldn't need to 'burp' multiple times when flushing. All I do is run a gas line in through the top port and flush for about 10 secs, seal her up and let it do its thang. Even if there is a small amount of air trapped it will sit above the co2 layer and be pushed out when the ferment kicks off.


Can I ask why it's necessary to fill the vessel with CO2 before fermentation has begun? Surely any oxygen will be absorbed by the yeast in the growth phase.


----------



## roller997

Given that there were plenty of breweries using open fermenters and the fact that the wort should be oxygenated, I am curious as well on why you would purge the air with CO2?

The CO2 created by the fermentation would displace the air pretty quickly.

I have tried to create oversized batches via open fermentation in a fridge. Works really well as per my avatar and when the fermentation begins to subside I put the lid on my conical and shield it from air at the latter part of the fermentation.

Interesting article relating to open air fermentation.
http://hbd.org/brewery/library/OpenFerm.html


----------



## Camo6

Checked a Landlord I had CCing last night to find the tray under it filling with beer and a stalagmite forming under the cone. Quickly transferred to a keg but couldn't figure out why the tap o ring had started leaking until I realised the little stalagmite was frozen beer and the airlock was frozen solid. The only problem with using an upright freezer as a ferment chamber is it chills too damn quick. Must remember to drop 5c at a time.

Has anyone tried sourcing thicker silicone o rings for the tap seals? I know some replace the tap completey but I kind of like the racking arm.


----------



## blekk

booker_h said:


> Can I ask why it's necessary to fill the vessel with CO2 before fermentation has begun? Surely any oxygen will be absorbed by the yeast in the growth phase.


For me its so I know it will give consistent results. I don't use fresh/liquid yeast (for now anyway) so fermentation is a little slower to kick off and I would like to give it the best start in life. If for some reason there is wild yeast trapped inside my fermenter, I'd imagine it could possibly establish itself faster then my dormant strain.


----------



## TidalPete

Posting these for Sav re his conical.


> Filtering 60 lt. Can you post this mate no where near 5 psi claimed before leaking co2. Love the ease of it


----------



## bullsneck

blair said:


> For me its so I know it will give consistent results. I don't use fresh/liquid yeast (for now anyway) so fermentation is a little slower to kick off and I would like to give it the best start in life. If for some reason there is wild yeast trapped inside my fermenter, I'd imagine it could possibly establish itself faster then my dormant strain.


Ok. Fair enough. If it's for consistency.

Bear in mind you are pitching a lot of yeast, compared to the much fewer spores in the air. Yes, the CO2 will inhibit growth of wild spores, but remember yeast is essentially a spore too.


----------



## Spiesy

blair said:


> For me its so I know it will give consistent results. I don't use fresh/liquid yeast (for now anyway) so fermentation is a little slower to kick off and I would like to give it the best start in life. If for some reason there is wild yeast trapped inside my fermenter, I'd imagine it could possibly establish itself faster then my dormant strain.


Rehydrate your dried yeast. Shouldn't be any more noticeable lag times with decent, healthy dry yeast.


----------



## Bribie G

One of the tiny o rings on my racking arm disintegrated, are there kits available for the Brew Bucket? Feel a bit silly fronting up to Pirtek or somewhere.... :blink:


ed: also on the dried yeast question, I've always found that properly rehydrated dried yeast always kicks off far quicker than liquid so-called "pitchable" yeasts if they are pitched directly out of the smack pack or vial, which is why I always start my liquids for a couple of days before brewing then pitch on the third day.

I'd guess liquid yeasts such as Wyeast and Whitelabs are probably direct-pitchable when they are fresh but many if not most of us are using liquids that are a month or two old or even older. I generally order three or four at a time as part of a larger order to minimise freight so my current Wyeast and Whitelabs library are average four months old. Always fire up - eventually.


----------



## mckenry

booker_h said:


> Can I ask why it's necessary to fill the vessel with CO2 before fermentation has begun? Surely any oxygen will be absorbed by the yeast in the growth phase.


Definitely not necessary. I never did it with plastic carboys. Air sitting on my wort prior to fermentation has always slightly bothered me. I do it and I know its overkill, but its so easy to do with the chronical and I have piece of mind that no airborne nasties are in there, competing with my yeast. I'm not so sure about your last statement though. The yeast chews through the o2 in solution. The headspace oxygen, no. In a fermentation situation, with an airlock, the air _should _be expelled. In a bottling situation, with the build up of pressure in an enclosed space, yes (assuming it was bottled with the correct headspace etc).




Roller997 said:


> Given that there were plenty of breweries using open fermenters and the fact that the wort should be oxygenated, I am curious as well on why you would purge the air with CO2?
> 
> The CO2 created by the fermentation would displace the air pretty quickly.
> 
> I have tried to create oversized batches via open fermentation in a fridge. Works really well as per my avatar and when the fermentation begins to subside I put the lid on my conical and shield it from air at the latter part of the fermentation.
> 
> Interesting article relating to open air fermentation.
> http://hbd.org/brewery/library/OpenFerm.html


Yep, I love the open to air ferments in breweries. I cant do that as I cant gaurantee I'll be home when I need to, to protect the ferment towards the end.
Homebrewers tend to put too much faith in the 'all powerful blanket of co2 protection'.
I do have a specialist gas testing background, and while chemically speaking the mass of co2 is greater than oxygen - If they couldnt mix, there would be co2 all over the earth surface and 7 billion dead people.


----------



## Bribie G

Yup in the early stages there's a good blanket (see this frame from the 1930s German Brewery you tube) where the brewer is lowering a candle towards the surface of the brew, candle goes out. At the later stages the beer is pumped into sealed lagering vessels.


----------



## TidalPete

Another upload for sav.




> So happy with my fermenter I ended up transferring into keg without filtering the 40lts. After cleaning I had under 1 lt left.
> So easy too clean with a valve on the bottom, and I think it wasn't holding pressure because after cleaning the silicone seal just fell out so see how next brew will go.
> Over all very happy with my purchase.


----------



## Dan Pratt

I put the new SS brewbucket into use today withe my EOY Ale - 5.7% & 55ibu

Had to use the old jockey straps for holding the KK temp probe on and then realized the senior airlock was sucking starsan solution back into the FV while it cooled from 28c to 17c in the fridge. Its been years since I used an airlock and so I tipped out the starsan out and just left it to cool before I pitch.

One question - can these be hole punched to fit a thermowell for inserting the 100mm temp probes?


----------



## Bribie G

Pete (previous post to yours) may be able to advise, he's drilled his lid if I'm not mistaken. Being SS and thus an excellent conductor as opposed to plastic, I just tape my probe to the side and cover with a pad of bubble wrap.


----------



## CrookedFingers

I did it Pratty.

I think I went with a 12mm hole, used a step drill. Nice and slow and kept the fluids to it so it didn't heat up.
Thermowell from CheekyPeak.
Fits the temp probe beautifully.


----------



## Dan Pratt

CrookedFingers said:


> I did it Pratty.
> 
> I think I went with a 12mm hole, used a step drill. Nice and slow and kept the fluids to it so it didn't heat up.
> Thermowell from CheekyPeak.
> Fits the temp probe beautifully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1420074107.561278.jpg


Thanks CF. I had seen yours and thought that was a good way to get the probe inside.

I think I might try the lid option first and use a beer belly SS tube and see how that goes, replacing a lid v's the FV is less risk.


----------



## CrookedFingers

Yeah the lid option is a good one.
Had I seen it before I drilled into mine I think I would have dome it too !


----------



## Bribie G

lid option #2, also thanks to Tidal Pete, is to get a cornie dip tube and cut it to size, then hammer the end shut and either weld it perfectly closed or use some sort of silicone sealer (forget which). Reportedly makes excellent thermowell, as well as having that cute little o ring at the lip end. I have a couple of dip tubes I got for another purpose and will have a stab at it - a local engineering mob I found in Taree will do a drill and weld for me for twenty bucks or so. Sticking on the bubble wrap etc does get a bit annoying after a while.


----------



## Dan Pratt

Today I done my first brewbucket transfer to keg.....with the wrong size hose. I got 1m of 10mm hose and it felt slightly loose and sure enough I had wort leaking and wort bubbling into the keg...fark! 

Can someone tell me what size hose we use to transfer from the ss tap barb?


----------



## Bribie G

10 mm inside diameter?

I took my barb into the LHBS and bought some soft vinyl tubing that looks like 8mm ID.


----------



## Camo6

I bought 10mm silicone hose from craftbrewer and it fits over the stepped section of the tap spout with a twist and a push. Doesn't leak or draw air and won't come off easily.


----------



## Dan Pratt

Bribie G said:


> 10 mm inside diameter?
> 
> I took my barb into the LHBS and bought some soft vinyl tubing that looks like 8mm ID.


yep it was 10mm ID hose and it was loose. ended up using 1/2 inch hose that attached to the bit just above the barb.

I will grab some 8mm and try that out, thanks Bribie.

Another thing i noticed was the krausen ring was quite black and the stainless finish after cleaning had a darker mark around it where the krausen was, ive tried to clean it without using anything abrasive but it wont come off. The lid also where the center drops had krausen and that too had black and now darkened area's....?




that doesn't appear normal. Its soaking now in sodium percarb and water solution, i think I go overboard and use like 1g per liter. I done the passivisation as per the SS bretech website incase your wondering.


----------



## jlm

Use something abrasive, that's part of the beauty of stainless. Get a green scotchbrite onto it and scrub all yer gunk off.


----------



## Camo6

Pratty1, I've found my krausen rings seem to be a bit condensed and 'blackened' as compared to the old plastic fermentors. Hasn't hurt the taste or attenuation any and doesn't occur with every yeast. I get that discolouration on mine and find it cleans well with a green scrubby and/or a bit of barkeeper's friend.


----------



## Dan Pratt

Thanks lads, after a 24hr soak with 60c water and sodium perc solution they have cleared up and it's back to its normal finish. 

I will keep that in mind for using a green scrubb clothe to clean that away, just wasn't sure about the scratching after so many years of using the plastic and avoiding that.


----------



## Spiesy

Camo6 said:


> Pratty1, I've found my krausen rings seem to be a bit condensed and 'blackened' as compared to the old plastic fermentors. Hasn't hurt the taste or attenuation any and doesn't occur with every yeast. I get that discolouration on mine and find it cleans well with a green scrubby and/or a bit of barkeeper's friend.


I've never had to use anything harsher than soft cloth for cleaning, certainly no scourers.


----------



## CrookedFingers

Same.
Hose on with Jet setting on nozzle, blast the krausen ring.
Soft cloth wipe.
Sometimes takes a good time to clean up, but have not wanted to crack out a scourer.


----------



## jlm

Nothing wrong with using a green scotchbrite on ss. Have seen them used in dairy applications and used them first hand in commercial brewing.


----------



## barls

they are also used on gunnery parts to remove caked on carbon.


----------



## Dan Pratt

I'm going for the blow off tube on this current batch. The 1st batch was 20lts and the krausen reached the lid center that is lower but didn't get to the airlock. This batch is just a half liter more than the first one, from memory reading this thread the hose size for the lid hole will fit a 1/2 silicon hose right?


----------



## Camo6

Spiesy said:


> I've never had to use anything harsher than soft cloth for cleaning, certainly no scourers.


I've just voided my warranty haven't I? :lol:


----------



## Spiesy

Camo6 said:


> I've just voided my warranty haven't I? :lol:


Lol


----------



## blekk

Obvious but make sure you scrub with the grain.


----------



## GNU

Bit off topic

What is your take on the temp control lid that has just been released for these by brew tech with immersion coil, water pump, temp probe and neoprene jacket?

Doesn't seem that great to me as you need to change the water temp in the res from chilled to heated manually. Seems it would just be easier to setup and run a brewing fridge. 

http://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/ftss/products/ftss-temperature-control-for-chronical-7-gallon


----------



## Brendandrage

I've been looking at this 
http://www.brewjacket.com/product/immersion-beer-cooling-unit/


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Does anyone use caustic to clean these guys? My caustic approach is generally to fill the vessel with hot (not too hot) water and then pour in a (irresponsibly not well measured) pour of caustic, emptying and rinsing the next day.

I did that with the BB this week, but found a decent amount of caustic had dropped right to the bottom of the cone and had only absorbed enough moisture to cake solid at the bottom. There was enough dissolved caustic to do the job, but the caked caustic wouldn't budge with pressure hose or hot water. In the end I had to very carefully pour tiny amounts of boiling water into the BB to get the caustic moving - looked kinda cool but wasn't not something I'd like to make a habit of.

Has anyone had this caking or ideas to avoid it? I'd rather not have to pre-liquify the caustic.


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Also, has anyone had issues with mould above the liquid line in these fermenters? I have used my BB twice and each time have seen what looks like mould - first time under the lid and second time at the krausen line and under the lid.








I can't really think of anything about these vessels that make them more susceptible to mould. Both of these batches were opened for dry hopping/sugar additions, but I've done that before without getting mould. Both have been cleaned and santised both times, of course.


----------



## Fat Bastard

I think you're going over the top with caustic... I only ever use my home brew PBW (25kg Sodium Perc/5kg Sodium Met) and Starsan on mine and it comes up sparkling each time, even at work (Big Pharma) they only use a Sodium Met based cleaner and 70% Ethanol to sanitise. No caustic, ever. Can't say I've noticed mould on mine, but the Krausen ring seems darker for whatever reason. Looking at the bottom pic, the spacing of those dark stains looks a bit regular. Do they line up with the spot welds on the clamps perchacnce?

Anyway, I'm still struggling with pressure transfers on mine. I can get enough pressure to get the transfer happening, but well below the 5 PSI rating, although it's hard to tell using a standard regulator pressure gauge. I've bent the clamps to buggery to get more force onto the seal, but it still leaks over about 2.5PSI on the gauge.

I think I need to get a properly scaled gauge into the system to see if it's actually in the range the reg gauge is indicating first though.


----------



## mckenry

Fat Bastard said:


> Anyway, I'm still struggling with pressure transfers on mine. I can get enough pressure to get the transfer happening, but well below the 5 PSI rating, although it's hard to tell using a standard regulator pressure gauge. I've bent the clamps to buggery to get more force onto the seal, but it still leaks over about 2.5PSI on the gauge.
> 
> I think I need to get a properly scaled gauge into the system to see if it's actually in the range the reg gauge is indicating first though.


Hey Fat Bastard,
I had the same problem early on too. It seems to have 'magically' fixed itself now. Maybe the silicone gasket has softened somewhat and seals better? Read on for my theory.
But, yesterday I pressure transferred at 5psi with no leaks, through a filter and into the keg.
What I really think is helping is that I leave my receiving kegs vented the whole time so there is no back pressure on the chronical. I could ramp up the pressure and leave the kegs closed, burping them once in a while, when I was fermenting in a 50L commercial keg. The commercial keg could obviously take a lot more pressure. So with the silicone gaskets and weak little clamps, I think it pays to have no back pressure from your receiving kegs whatsoever.
See how that goes.


----------



## Spiesy

Mr. No-Tip said:


> Also, has anyone had issues with mould above the liquid line in these fermenters? I have used my BB twice and each time have seen what looks like mould - first time under the lid and second time at the krausen line and under the lid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MouldLid.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MouldKrausen.jpg
> 
> I can't really think of anything about these vessels that make them more susceptible to mould. Both of these batches were opened for dry hopping/sugar additions, but I've done that before without getting mould. Both have been cleaned and santised both times, of course.


I've never had mould, no.

With a sealed fermenting vessel, there should be no way mould can grow - as long as everything is clean. That's a bit of a worry, mate. Is your sugar sterilised? When are you are adding hops - how and when are you adding them (i.e. in a hop sock, hop tea, loose)?


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

@FatBastard, there was Brett in the ferment so I felt more comfortable with caustic. Not my usual routine.

I didn't think about the clamps. Interesting - too late to check. 


@speisy, dextrose in boiled solution and loose hops. Both techniques I've used many times. The dry hop (maybe) mould was only in the inside of the lid where condensation drops had formed. The second time it was inside the lid and krausen ring, I had use a blow off tube.


----------



## bullsneck

This is a question to those using a blow off tube in their conicals...

My usual practice is to fill my half barrel conical at whatever temp I can reach with the immersion chiller (usually 18°c on cooler days, higher when it's hotter) then do the rest of the cooling in the fridge. Bonus is that by the time the wort is at the required pitching temperature, the trub that made its way into the fermenter has settled to the bottom and I can draw it off.
Anyway, I fit my blowoff tube whilst chilling in the fridge (I don't want nasty fridge spores in my beer, particularly when only fermenting 20L in the 64L conical). As the wort cools in the conical, it sucks in sanitiser from the blow off reservoir. I lost a lot of sanitiser this time. Unfortunately, it ends up in the beer.
So my question is... How can I avoid this? Anyone got any tips?

The only thing I can think of is using a sanitary air filter on the end of the blow off, then swap to sanitiser bucket once the wort Is at the right temperature for fermenting.

Something like this...



Thoughts?

edit - spelling


----------



## mckenry

booker_h said:


> This is a question to those using a blow off tube in their conicals...
> 
> My usual practice is to fill my half barrel conical at whatever temp I can reach with the immersion chiller (usually 18°c on cooler days, higher when it's hotter) then do the rest of the cooling in the fridge. Bonus is that by the time the wort is at the required pitching temperature, the trub that made its way into the fermenter has settled to the bottom and I can draw it off.
> Anyway, I fit my blowoff tube whilst chilling in the fridge (I don't want nasty fridge spores in my beer, particularly when only fermenting 20L in the 64L conical). As the wort cools in the conical, it sucks in sanitiser from the blow off reservoir. I lost a lot of sanitiser this time. Unfortunately, it ends up in the beer.
> So my question is... How can I avoid this? Anyone got any tips?
> 
> The only thing I can think of is using a sanitary air filter on the end of the blow off, then swap to sanitiser bucket once the wort Is at the right temperature for fermenting.
> 
> Something like this...
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> edit - spelling


Exactly what I use when I have to wait for the wort to chill to pitching temp. They have an in/out printed on them, but apparently it doesnt matter which way it goes. I was worried about caving in my conical if the pressure inside was decreasing too much and I'd created a vacuum by putting it on backwards, so did some reading. The suggested practice is 'it doesnt matter, air will flow either direction, just keep it the same each time' This is so the 'bad' air is always on the outside. If you turn it around, the filtered air, from last time, will be on the inside and carried into the wort when air is sucked in. For the record, I have mine facing 'IN' towards the wort, 'OUT' on the outside just to keep it easy to remember. You can use them as an airlock if you like, in the same configuration, but be wary of blowoff. I dont use it as an airlock, just a filter at the end of the blowoff tube when cooling, then pull it out and put the tube into the blowoff bottle.


----------



## Dan Pratt

^ ^ I just put a senior airlock that is sanitized with just enough sanitizer that the top part just touches the sanitizer, it bubbles up and creates a foam protective layer inside the airlock and only a few mls of sanitzer goes into the FV. Then when I pitch the yeast I remove the airlock & bung and replace with the silicon hose into the 1litre container. 

also, If your worried about nasties in your fridge, then I hate to say it but......clean the fridge!


----------



## bullsneck

Thanks for that, @mckenry. I guess you put it back on when it is time to crash chill, too. I'll have to go pick one up next time I'm at the LHBS.



Pratty1 said:


> also, If your worried about nasties in your fridge, then I hate to say it but......clean the fridge!


The fridge is clean, but spores are everywhere. I am only worried as at that stage (the cooling of the wort in the conical) I have not yet pitched yeast, so it's a microbes playground until a hundred billion yeastie boys are swimming in the wort.


----------



## mckenry

booker_h said:


> Thanks for that, @mckenry. I guess you put it back on when it is time to crash chill, too. I'll have to go pick one up next time I'm at the LHBS.


Yep. But prior to owning one, the blowoff tube was long enough that the water wasnt sucked all the way back in. It only came back about a quarter of the way.


----------



## RobW

booker_h said:


> This is a question to those using a blow off tube in their conicals...
> 
> My usual practice is to fill my half barrel conical at whatever temp I can reach with the immersion chiller (usually 18°c on cooler days, higher when it's hotter) then do the rest of the cooling in the fridge. Bonus is that by the time the wort is at the required pitching temperature, the trub that made its way into the fermenter has settled to the bottom and I can draw it off.
> Anyway, I fit my blowoff tube whilst chilling in the fridge (I don't want nasty fridge spores in my beer, particularly when only fermenting 20L in the 64L conical). As the wort cools in the conical, it sucks in sanitiser from the blow off reservoir. I lost a lot of sanitiser this time. Unfortunately, it ends up in the beer.
> So my question is... How can I avoid this? Anyone got any tips?
> 
> The only thing I can think of is using a sanitary air filter on the end of the blow off, then swap to sanitiser bucket once the wort Is at the right temperature for fermenting.
> 
> Something like this...
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> edit - spelling


Use a jar of sanitiser with a tube from the fermenter that sits above the liquid and a tube to the outside that is under the sanitiser.
Just a big airlock really. Apologies for the pathetic artwork.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

RobW said:


> Use a jar of sanitiser with a tube from the fermenter that sits above the liquid and a tube to the outside that is under the sanitiser.
> Just a big airlock really. Apologies for the pathetic artwork.


How do you sanitize the initial volume of air though above the sanitizer?


----------



## Dan Pratt

^ ^ I think that the picture is supposed to show the hose from the FV into the sanitized jar below the water line.

That way the pressure of the cooling phase would cause air to be drawn in from the hose that goes from the jar into the air.


----------



## TSMill

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> How do you sanitize the initial volume of air though above the sanitizer?


The same way you sanitise the air in the headspace of yoour fermenter at the start of fermentation.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Yeah ermmmm, exactly! Haha. I suppose the initial purge of CO2 Would push it out the opposite way anyway, nice idea!


----------



## Dan Pratt

filmed the airlock the other day after years of gladwrap on the FV. B)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oMqkilH2iY


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Has anyone used these as a bottling bucket for bulk priming? I am thinking that with a small bit of hose, the pickup tube could get pretty much every drop of beer (unlike a plastic FV which leaves a fair bit even if you tilt it).

What I am a little concerned about is whether the conical bottom might stop proper dispersal of the dextrose syrup as I pour the beer on top - in a plastic fermenter it's spread quite evenly and it's quite easy to get a whirlpool going. I don't want to end up with flat beers and bottle bombs...


----------



## Mardoo

When bulk priming I fill from the tap on my plastic fermentors and have never had problems with uneven carbonation. Could that be done on the brewbucket as well?


----------



## Dan Pratt

I was wondering how to attache the little bottler with the blue tip to the SS brewbucket??

has anyone bottled from the SS BB ?


----------



## Camo6

10mm id silicone hose pushed right over the entire barb then onto bottle wand. Haven't bottled from a BB but can't see why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Camo6 said:


> 10mm id silicone hose pushed right over the entire barb then onto bottle wand. Haven't bottled from a BB but can't see why it wouldn't work.


Sure, I know it will be fine on the way out, my interest is whether the internal geometry might not mix the bulk prime solution as well...I guess I'll see today...


----------



## Parks

Mr. No-Tip said:


> Sure, I know it will be fine on the way out, my interest is whether the internal geometry might not mix the bulk prime solution as well...I guess I'll see today...


I reckon if you can fill via the tap with the little hose extension you mentioned it would mix fine. Or even a hose right down into the point of the cone.

TBH I reckon it would mix better because your fresh liquid in would always be entering through the syrup in the bottom.


----------



## Camo6

Mr. No-Tip said:


> Sure, I know it will be fine on the way out, my interest is whether the internal geometry might not mix the bulk prime solution as well...I guess I'll see today...



That wasn't the post you're looking for. (Waves hand in Jedi fashion) You can go about your business. Move along, move along.

(Was replying to prattys post below yours!)


----------



## elcarter

Well I think I my have been one of lucky ones to get one of the first half barrels. Only just managed to source a upright freezer to fit the thing.

Not to mention my 36hr battle with the defrost timer, heater sensor and various other modifications need to hold this bad boy.

So my first "fermented in stainless" beer is slowly getting to pitching temp and I figured it was well past time to photograph this achievement, before I smash this freezer with a hammer if it fails to hold temperature one more time :angry2:


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Parks said:


> I reckon if you can fill via the tap with the little hose extension you mentioned it would mix fine. Or even a hose right down into the point of the cone.
> 
> TBH I reckon it would mix better because your fresh liquid in would always be entering through the syrup in the bottom.


I used it for two batches today. It did appear to whirlpool pretty strongly for the whole fill with the tube at horizontal. I did have a small problem with leaking around the tap, but I think I was being a bit haphazard about my turns.

I'll let ya'll know how they carbonate.


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Camo6 said:


> That wasn't the post you're looking for. (Waves hand in Jedi fashion) You can go about your business. Move along, move along.
> 
> (Was replying to prattys post below yours!)


I see said the blind internet man. All good/grain!


----------



## Fat Bastard

So, I'm still having trouble with pressure transfers from my 7 gal conical. I've bent the clamp wires as far as I'm game to, and it still won't hold anywhere near 5 PSI. I reckon the problem is a combination if the thin lid distorting and the seal being too hard to compensate for it.

It did hold enough to transfer, but was leaking bulk CO2. 

Anyone got a solution to this yet? I might see if I can cut a shim for the lif"d and see if that helps, but even if it does work, it's an inelegant solution.


----------



## mckenry

Fat Bastard said:


> So, I'm still having trouble with pressure transfers from my 7 gal conical. I've bent the clamp wires as far as I'm game to, and it still won't hold anywhere near 5 PSI. I reckon the problem is a combination if the thin lid distorting and the seal being too hard to compensate for it.
> 
> It did hold enough to transfer, but was leaking bulk CO2.
> 
> Anyone got a solution to this yet? I might see if I can cut a shim for the lif"d and see if that helps, but even if it does work, it's an inelegant solution.


FB - I had this exact problem. It would transfer, but leak as well. I can however transfer successfully, through a filter, if the receiving keg is vented to atmosphere the whole time. The kegs obviously have far stronger seals than the conical, so the conical leaks first. So, I just clean a keg, flush it and use the relief on that keg as the tool to start the transfer (just as the conical leaks - although I know at what point that is now, so it doesn't happen anymore) and just leave it open the whole time.


----------



## Fat Bastard

Cheers mckenry!
That's pretty much the procedure I've been using. Everything happens as long as I have the keg PRV open, although I have yet to try filtering. 

I suppose you could say it works, just the leaks are mighty annoying!


----------



## stux

I would think you would need the keg PRV open in order to transfer into it, otherwise you will quickly compress the volume of gas in the keg and provide equal back pressure to your transfer pressure


----------



## Fat Bastard

Well, yes this is the theory espoused by traditional Newronian Physics. And a theory I whole heartlessly endorse, whether transferring under pressure or by gravity.

I think I'm gonna send an email to Brewtech about it. Dunno if I've got a dud or it's a problem they know about or it's only me. I reckon a vessel should be able to easily handle it's rated pressure, and be capable of handling at least three times that before it fails in a safe manner, and probably ten times the rated pressure before it fails catastrophically.


----------



## Fat Bastard

And in other conical fermenter discussion: how is everyone handling dry hopping? I've noticed a drop in efficacy of the dry hop charge. My typical process involves dry hopping for 7 days @ below 4 degrees. I've had a noticeable drop in aroma for a given dry hop charge. I've put this down to the reduced surface area compared to a traditional flat bottomed plastic fermenter. I'm thinking about cold crashing after primary for a week, dumping twice in that period and letting it rise to 7-10 degrees and dry hopping for 7 days before cold crashing for 3 and dumping the hops through the bottom port before an extended period in the fermenter.
Any thoughts on this?


----------



## zwitter

I have been umm-ing and ah-ing since Christmas about buying either a brewbucket or Chronical7. Probably the only reason I have not is the lack of stock.

Fat Barstard. I will make a few comments regarding pressure. They are not 'rated' pressure vessels. And pressure is almost always misunderstood. Just a quick calculation assuming the lid is 30cm across at 5psi it will have a force of about 250kg pushing it open. As it is made of quite thin material and only held at six points it is going to leak. I think their 5 psi is more of a "you wont break it at 5 psi"

I am interested in some answers.
If I buy one will it have the small or longer racking arm?
Are the ball valves an issue? Ie sanitary fittings but unsanitary valves?
Are there better / improved versions coming?
Would you recommend?


James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Weizguy

> I have been umm-ing and ah-ing since Christmas about buying either a brewbucket or Chronical7. Probably the only reason I have not is the lack of stock.
> 
> Fat Barstard. I will make a few comments regarding pressure. They are not 'rated' pressure vessels. And pressure is almost always misunderstood. Just a quick calculation assuming the lid is 30cm across at 5psi it will have a force of about 250kg pushing it open. As it is made of quite thin material and only held at six points it is going to leak. I think their 5 psi is more of a "you wont break it at 5 psi"
> 
> I am interested in some answers.
> If I buy one will it have the small or longer racking arm?
> Are the ball valves an issue? Ie sanitary fittings but unsanitary valves?
> Are there better / improved versions coming?
> Would you recommend?
> 
> 
> James
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Best to address these questions with NewEraBrewing.
There will always be improvements, as with computers. Just jump in.
I bought a Brew Bucket and just stating to realise how much better and cleaner it is than plastic fermentors.
I recommend what you can afford, or just start fermenting in an old keg, of whatever size suits.


----------



## SimoB

I have a strange questions:

The surface of my brew bucket, on the inside varies. smooth to slightly rough... like there is a calcium build up or something - but I can't seem to scrub it off.

Would like to point out that it's not effecting my beer... is it beer stone or something?

anyone else suffer from this?


----------



## Weizguy

Is it just the tooling marks from when the sheet was rolled/spun into a cylinder?
Parallel to the top?
Stone has a darkish colour, so prob not that.
My BB has not yet had enough use to develop/create any character.


----------



## SimoB

Yes, it probably is just the tooling marks, it does run that way. I knew I was just being paranoid.

Cheers!


----------



## Weizguy

Ah, if it is only that, then it's a feature and not a flaw!

I never thought to question it, but that may be due to age and experience with cheap methods of manufacture.


----------



## SimoB

I imagine so - I don't see it on anything else I own that's stainless.... but for the price point, it's fine.


----------



## zwitter

Les the Weizguy said:


> Best to address these questions with NewEraBrewing.
> There will always be improvements, as with computers. Just jump in.
> I bought a Brew Bucket and just stating to realise how much better and cleaner it is than plastic fermentors.
> I recommend what you can afford, or just start fermenting in an old keg, of whatever size suits.



Hi Les

Yes I can ask NewEra except I am in Sydney. But was more wanting a users perspective on those issues?
Price is important but would not take many screwed brews to account the difference.

Funny how nothing for 3 weeks then whoosh a whole lot in 3 hours.....

I may visit local agent on the weekend.
James


----------



## Weizguy

I contacted New Era via email and had several fruitful conversations before deciding to purchase.

I'm in Newcastle, and email is universal. Sorry, that's what I meant by ask. Phone calls can get exxy.

I can explain my presence here, and answering your question. I was trying to help out a bloke at work who was thinking about looking into S/S fermentors, so this thread was one of my first stops.

Good onya, James. After the sting of the cost of stainless has subsided, you will continue to feel the shiny, shiny love for a long time.


----------



## Spiesy

zwitter said:


> I have been umm-ing and ah-ing since Christmas about buying either a brewbucket or Chronical7. Probably the only reason I have not is the lack of stock.


Stock has been pretty solid other than a few weeks.




SimoB said:


> The surface of my brew bucket, on the inside varies. smooth to slightly rough... like there is a calcium build up or something - but I can't seem to scrub it off.



Doesn't sound right. And you shouldn't need to scrub your bucket at all. A soft cloth and hot water always gets my bucket nice and shiny - I do treat it to a hot water and PBW soak afterwards, for good measure, before a thorough rinse and no-rinse sanitise.

What is your cleaning regime, and where are the rough parts?


----------



## zwitter

Hi
Yeah, in January up until mid February there was not a chronical 7 in the county on the shelves. I rang around as had christmas money burning a hole in my pocket.

Wife spent some of it for me....

I may go take a look on weekend if I can get out.

Still concerned with the ball valves etc compared to butterfly. That is where you guys can comment. 

Currently I use the plastic fermenters and get satisfactory results but I do like shiney 

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## elcarter

I've got the 60L chronical and it's great. 

That said I've passivated it when it arrived and after every brew with I hit it with some PWB and let it sit over night.
Despite this I still have to get in there with some green scotch bright to get the krausen off form time to time. 

I suspect this is due to the cheaper stainless used and then the continued use with the scotch bright but I've got no concerns considering the price and design.


----------



## Spiesy

Have seriously never had to use more than a quick wipe with a soft cloth and hot water to get krausen marks off. 

Mind you, I always clean immediately after decanting the beer.


----------



## SimoB

I checked last night, and I can scrape whatever it is off with my finger nail. It looks white on the vessel, but grey black on my fingernail..

I never did a decent clean with TSP, I just used soapy water. So I might try that....


----------



## Spiesy

SimoB said:


> I checked last night, and I can scrape whatever it is off with my finger nail. It looks white on the vessel, but grey black on my fingernail..
> 
> I never did a decent clean with TSP, I just used soapy water. So I might try that....


My first clean was sodium percarbonate wipe and soak with hot water. Followed by a thorough rinse in hot water.
And then a soak in strong Star San - and then air dry (passivation), as per the manufacturers recommendations. 

Ever since then, it's been a breeze to clean.


----------



## Kodos

SimoB said:


> I checked last night, and I can scrape whatever it is off with my finger nail. It looks white on the vessel, but grey black on my fingernail..
> 
> I never did a decent clean with TSP, I just used soapy water. So I might try that....


It could be a calcium build up like you get on kettles etc? I would try a mild acid solution try to clean using that CLR or a bit of citric acid or white vinegar diluted? Starsan Phosophoric acid can work.

If it's beerstone then an acidic clean before a PBW (alkaline) clean should do the trick.


----------



## SimoB

Thanks guys - I'm going to re-do the first use instructions and see how it comes up.


----------



## SimoB

What the rough part looks like... Hard to tell from photo

Edit: lines going vertical are marks from my sponge, not scratches


----------



## spog

Looks to me to be either a build of calcium or cleaning solution that hasn't been cleaned off completely .
Maybe another good soak over night with the recommended solution or as Kodos said try some other cleaners that are suited .


----------



## sheep

Fat Bastard said:


> Well, yes this is the theory espoused by traditional Newronian Physics. And a theory I whole heartlessly endorse, whether transferring under pressure or by gravity.
> 
> I think I'm gonna send an email to Brewtech about it. Dunno if I've got a dud or it's a problem they know about or it's only me. I reckon a vessel should be able to easily handle it's rated pressure, and be capable of handling at least three times that before it fails in a safe manner, and probably ten times the rated pressure before it fails catastrophically.


I had similar issues, fixed them by using the seal the other way round so that the thick solid part is showing and seems to leak less.

The other big difference was assembling a tri-clover fitting with a gas post to fit to the lid and pressurising using this, now I can reach 4-5 psi.


----------



## SimoB

update guys - i did an hour soak with sodium pre-carbonate. it's good as new and smooth as. So it was clearly my cleaning which was the issue.

Cheers,


----------



## CheekyPeakBrewery

Yes, we recommend a good soak and a quick clean before and after use. That way when you are using it is as shiny as possible - They are such a sexy beast


----------



## meathead

I've got a brewbucket and must have turned the dip tube the wrong way because when I went to take a sample for Gravity all I get is a drip 
I've loosened the lid so it's not air flow
Any suggestions would be appreciated


----------



## Spiesy

meathead said:


> I've got a brewbucket and must have turned the dip tube the wrong way because when I went to take a sample for Gravity all I get is a drip
> I've loosened the lid so it's not air flow
> Any suggestions would be appreciated


Open and close the tap a few times. Tap could be blocked. 

Other than that. You could try pressurising the bucket to a few psi with CO2. Failing that, clean and sanitise a stainless brew paddle, and get in there, give the elbow a turn.


----------



## meathead

Thanks yes the elbow is blocked 
How do u connect the gas to the lid?


----------



## Milk-lizard84

Anyone have trouble maintaining cold crash temps with there brewbucket?
Maybe it's my fridge thats the problem but it struggles to get down low and when it does it's constantly fluctuating. 
I was thinking that since steel is a better conductor of temp is the reason it may change so constantly. Anyone used like a neoprene jacket to help keep temps in?


----------



## mckenry

Milk-lizard84 said:


> Anyone have trouble maintaining cold crash temps with there brewbucket?
> Maybe it's my fridge thats the problem but it struggles to get down low and when it does it's constantly fluctuating.
> I was thinking that since steel is a better conductor of temp is the reason it may change so constantly. Anyone used like a neoprene jacket to help keep temps in?


I have a 17 gal conical. No probs holding temp. I do have a larger volume though.
I think its your fridge.
Test it without you brewbucket in there. Get a cheap temperature data logger.


----------



## Camo6

meathead said:


> I've got a brewbucket and must have turned the dip tube the wrong way because when I went to take a sample for Gravity all I get is a drip
> I've loosened the lid so it's not air flow
> Any suggestions would be appreciated


I've got an ipa with 200gms of ahtanum in one atm that's getting blocked. I've given a gentle blast of co2 through the tap to free it but it's become blocked again. I just butted the gas line up to the outlet (just be quick to close the tap afterwards!). I'm hoping another squirt a few days into the cold crash will keep me out of trouble.


----------



## Kodos

Camo6 said:


> I've got an ipa with 200gms of ahtanum in one atm that's getting blocked. I've given a gentle blast of co2 through the tap to free it but it's become blocked again. I just butted the gas line up to the outlet (just be quick to close the tap afterwards!). I'm hoping another squirt a few days into the cold crash will keep me out of trouble.


To avoid this happening to my recent IPA I turned the dip tube sideways why I dry-hopped, and only turned it upwards to take samples.

I've also replaced the hosetail on the tap with a 5/8" John guest fitting, so I could connect my CO2 line directly to the tap. Meant I could bubble co2 through the tap to purge oxygen after adding dry hops.

I've fitted a bulkhead into the lid so I could pressurise, but despite it sealing nicely during a test it hasn't sealed properly during fermentation. Not worried though.


----------



## stux

Imagining you could also blow C02 through the tap to blow out anything which is blocking the dip tube too. Would probably want a checkvalve between the tap and your reg tho!


----------



## meathead

Thanks for all the ideas
What about attaching some tube and sucking instead of blowing


----------



## Camo6

Kodos said:


> To avoid this happening to my recent IPA I turned the dip tube sideways why I dry-hopped, and only turned it upwards to take samples.
> 
> I've also replaced the hosetail on the tap with a 5/8" John guest fitting, so I could connect my CO2 line directly to the tap. Meant I could bubble co2 through the tap to purge oxygen after adding dry hops.
> 
> I've fitted a bulkhead into the lid so I could pressurise, but despite it sealing nicely during a test it hasn't sealed properly during fermentation. Not worried though.


Nice ideas. I had been leaving the dip tube sideways until final transfer as per Brewtech instructions ( I think everyone has their own opinion on what's 'finger-tight') but was getting intermittent leaking from the tap o rings. Once those leaks start it's hard to stop them and I hate wasting beer. So I've gotten lazy and just leave the diptube pointing down.
But, like the fly by the seat of my pants guy I am, I brewed an all cube hopped IPA in a 17l cube with around 150gms of Ahtanum. Instead of straining into the bucket I just threw it all in, then dry hopped another 50gm. Add a couple of inches of compacted Greenbelt and I was pushing shit uphill trying to get anything out of that tap. I just spent the last hour siphoning the brewbucket and probably wasted a few litres (not completely wasted, I didn't tip it out :drinks: ) and used some pretty average sanitation in the process. That IPA, as much as I want to let it age a few weeks, will need to be consumed quickly.

I'll chalk this one up to experience!


----------



## Milk-lizard84

mckenry said:


> I have a 17 gal conical. No probs holding temp. I do have a larger volume though.
> I think its your fridge.
> Test it without you brewbucket in there. Get a cheap temperature data logger.


Thanks for the quick response. I'm pretty sure its the fridge now. Had it set to 6 degrees today before I left for work. It was at 12 this morning and was struggling to get to 9.5 degrees.


----------



## Spiesy

I keep my elbow sideways too. I'd rather an easy extraction and less gunk than compromising for another 500ml-1L (which is usually rubbish anyway).


----------



## Milk-lizard84

So after I passivated my bucket it has become spotty and streaky one the outside.
I know it's only a visual thing but just wondering if I used a bit of bar keepers friend on it would it damage the exterior of the bucket at all?


----------



## Milk-lizard84

A pic may help


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Not sure about bar keepers, but PBW should shine it up - can it fit in your kettle?


----------



## elcarter

I got streaks as well. Was not interested in trying to submerge my 17 gal in star san solution to get a streak free look.

I don't care to me it's an instument for beer production not a show piece


----------



## Camo6

elcarter said:


> I don't care to me it's an instument for beer production not a show piece


Whaaaaaaaaaa....!


Must admit the outside of mine only get a quick clean. Inside is so easy to clean though.


----------



## breakbeer

I didn't realise my dip tube was pointing downward & started filling my keg, got more than a few litres in before I figured it out & now have a keg full of very yeasty beer


----------



## Florian

Milk-lizard84 said:


> So after I passivated my bucket it has become spotty and streaky one the outside.
> I know it's only a visual thing but just wondering if I used a bit of bar keepers friend on it would it damage the exterior of the bucket at all?


if you're really concerned then sponge it off with PBW, sodium percarbonate or whatever else, rinse clean with a hose and polish dry with a towel. the streaks are just dried on water and cleaner deposits.

Polishing dry is the secret ingredient here.

I have done it once but now that everyone has seen it and patted my back I don't bother anymore.


----------



## Camo6

Florian said:


> if you're really concerned then sponge it off with PBW, sodium percarbonate or whatever else, rinse clean with a hose and polish dry with a towel. the streaks are just dried on water and cleaner deposits.
> 
> Polishing dry is the secret ingredient here.
> 
> I have done it once but now that everyone has seen it and patted my back I don't bother anymore.


Haha! The only time I clean the outside of my brewrig is to post upgrade pics. The rest of the time I'm lucky if I flick the earwigs off it.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Poser.


----------



## Milk-lizard84

Got another question in regards to holding a good seal on the lid of my brew bucket. Any body else having any dramas with the top seal at all?
I know that airlock activity isn't the only sign that the fermentation is occuring but I kind of enjoy it. Past 2 brews I've had no activity through the airlock and was curious if anyone else has had the same problem.


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Milk-lizard84 said:


> Got another question in regards to holding a good seal on the lid of my brew bucket. Any body else having any dramas with the top seal at all?
> I know that airlock activity isn't the only sign that the fermentation is occuring but I kind of enjoy it. Past 2 brews I've had no activity through the airlock and was curious if anyone else has had the same problem.


Bit that I've experienced. I guess try reseating the rubber? Could it be the airlock bung?

On that note, I've lost my airlock bung. Anyone know of a readily available replacement?


----------



## WarmerBeer

Mr. No-Tip said:


> Bit that I've experienced. I guess try reseating the rubber? Could it be the airlock bung?
> 
> On that note, I've lost my airlock bung. Anyone know of a readily available replacement?


10mm ID (iirc) vinyl tubing from Bunnings fits snug enough to cause a seal. Just run a bit off into a flask of Star San for a blow off tube.


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

WarmerBeer said:


> 10mm ID (iirc) vinyl tubing from Bunnings fits snug enough to cause a seal. Just run a bit off into a flask of Star San for a blow off tube.


Nice idea. In fact, I think I already have silicon tubing that might do the job. Cheers!


----------



## meathead

Milk-lizard84 said:


> Got another question in regards to holding a good seal on the lid of my brew bucket. Any body else having any dramas with the top seal at all?
> I know that airlock activity isn't the only sign that the fermentation is occuring but I kind of enjoy it. Past 2 brews I've had no activity through the airlock and was curious if anyone else has had the same problem.



Fill bb with water, fi lid, attach filled air lock and turn on tap
If water is sucked in thru air lock you're all good
Don't ask how I know


----------



## Milk-lizard84

meathead said:


> Fill bb with water, fi lid, attach filled air lock and turn on tap
> If water is sucked in thru air lock you're all good
> Don't ask how I know


Cheers meathead. Ill give that a crack. Maybe my past 2 brews haven't fermented vigirously enough to warrant any airlock activity.


----------



## Weizguy

Milk-lizard84 said:


> Cheers meathead. Ill give that a crack. Maybe my past 2 brews haven't fermented vigirously enough to warrant any airlock activity.


If the vessel has a seal, any ferment action will cause airlock bubbling, unless you leave the airlock empty.

I am going to try my Brew Bucket with some cling wrap next time. I like to see if there's any activity after the airlock slows down. I think my last 2 beers just dropped to the bottom of the cone and went to sleep.

Will test run with my 50 litre fusti for 2 reasons:- Smaller lid/ rubber band size, and 25 litres of wheat beer which would fill my ferment fridge with foam. Yeast just pitched and whipped with a large sanitised whisk

Oh. and it fits in the fridge better


----------



## Bribie G

I'm having disappointing and continuing problems with the supplied tap on the brewbucket. I obtained a 3 piece ball valve that I still can't get to seat properly so still using the original. 

I often get a weep from the base of the valve and a little rivulet that then drips off the base of the cone.

If I half fill the vessel with water first to test I can do a problem free fermentation but today I trusted the vessel and put the wort in. Dribble dribble dribble.

Wiggling the tap around is no help so I just transferred into old school FV.

What solutions?


----------



## zwitter

Depends where the leak is.
New o ring
Thread tape
Tighten a bit more?

Where did you buy the ball valve? I have some from an aussie supplier up Brisane way and no problems but some chinese ones the finish is rough and they leak sometimes.

I always test the plumbing after any change.

I Hate leaks

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Camo6

I have similar issues with mine. I think the problem is the o rings are too thin and of a hard composite. Once it starts to dribble it's a horrible feeling when you think you might have to transfer it to _plastic. _I've been lucky before and stopped it by quickly rotating the tap clockwise. I also find initial over tightening can cause it to leak.

I've become reluctant to set my racking arm at 90 degrees but with my last batch the tube got blocked by hops and yeast.

While I'm determined to source some better o rings, until then my approach will be : keg lube on the o rings, 'lightly' finger tighten ( I'm an ex-mechanic, finger tight was til it stripped then back off half a turn), set the tap and arm at 90 degrees (horizontal) and only move it down once after cold crashing and only when I'm ready to transfer to keg.


----------



## Bribie G

Thanks. Will test filled with water and use the keg lube and light tighten trick.


----------



## Weizguy

Bribie G said:


> Thanks. Will test filled with water and use the keg lube and light tighten trick.


I have to agree witht he keg lube option. Was going to post that after reading your initial question, so now I'm just confirming and agreeing with Camo6.
Tighten lightly also may pay dividends, but not if the gasket/o-ring is now flat.


Camo6 said:


> I have similar issues with mine. I think the problem is the o rings are too thin and of a hard composite. Once it starts to dribble it's a horrible feeling when you think you might have to transfer it to _plastic. _I've been lucky before and stopped it by quickly rotating the tap clockwise. I also find initial over tightening can cause it to leak.
> 
> I've become reluctant to set my racking arm at 90 degrees but with my last batch the tube got blocked by hops and yeast.
> 
> While I'm determined to source some better o rings, until then my approach will be : keg lube on the o rings, 'lightly' finger tighten ( I'm an ex-mechanic, finger tight was til it stripped then back off half a turn), set the tap and arm at 90 degrees (horizontal) and only move it down once after cold crashing and only when I'm ready to transfer to keg.


I really can't see much point having the weak tap and arm, with the tiny outlet. I tried to put a hose on the tap for the first time, to rack a beer into a keg recently and my 1/2 inch hose was too big, so I went back to the auto-siphon (which has it's own problems).

However, the tap on my Brew Bucket still seals fine, and it's the $30 you-beaut SS tap on my fusti that leaks when you open it. Still working on that one. Decided to disassemble and lube.

How good is it to see that SS fermentation opens up it's own world of new problems?


----------



## Bizenya

I've seen the earlier posts but how many people are taking their taps apart on the brewbucket/brewmaster after each brew? 

Or are most people going with the sodium percarb / starsan soak with the tap being turned often? 

I've only done one brew (Epic Pale) but am planning the next and just a bit unsure if the go is to soak or disassemble


----------



## Camo6

I run the hose on high pressure through the tap while opening and closing. Then it gets soaked in PBW and then starsan. Haven't pulled one apart yet.


----------



## Bizenya

Sounds good- I am planning the same

Any one have any discoloration on the inside where the legs are? I've noted some on one leg


----------



## Milk-lizard84

Howdy all. I'm looking at making a blow off valve for my brew bucket and was just wondering if anyone had rigged up there own one using 1/2inch stainless steel bits instead of purchasing the actual blow off assembly from ss brewtech.


----------



## WarmerBeer

WarmerBeer said:


> 10mm ID (iirc) vinyl tubing from Bunnings fits snug enough to cause a seal. Just run a bit off into a flask of Star San for a blow off tube.





Milk-lizard84 said:


> Howdy all. I'm looking at making a blow off valve for my brew bucket and was just wondering if anyone had rigged up there own one using 1/2inch stainless steel bits instead of purchasing the actual blow off assembly from ss brewtech.


----------



## Black Devil Dog

Bizenya said:


> Sounds good- I am planning the same
> 
> Any one have any discoloration on the inside where the legs are? I've noted some on one leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1428130362.714718.jpg


I haven't seen that, but I noticed some discolouration on the welds around the legs on the outside of the fermenter. Re-passivated it and now the discolouration is less noticeable.

Turn your fermenter over and see how those welds look, they could be the cause.


----------



## Bribie G

Milk-lizard84 said:


> Howdy all. I'm looking at making a blow off valve for my brew bucket and was just wondering if anyone had rigged up there own one using 1/2inch stainless steel bits instead of purchasing the actual blow off assembly from ss brewtech.


I use a standard LHBS two piece airlock in the bung that came with the bucket. Take off the top section and slide a metre of beer line onto the bit that sticks up in the bottom section (LHBS will sell you some to fit the airlock) then drop the other end into a bottle of water.


----------



## Camo6

I've some standard 1/2" silicone hose that is a snug fit in the hole.

On the leaking tap issue I bought a heap of 16mm x 2.65mm silicone o rings from aliexpress. Originals are 1.8mm thick so I'm hoping these work. They should be a bit softer than the brewtech ones going by the description. If they work I'm happy to post a few out to any with similar issues.


----------



## stux

Bribie G said:


> I use a standard LHBS two piece airlock in the bung that came with the bucket. Take off the top section and slide a metre of beer line onto the bit that sticks up in the bottom section (LHBS will sell you some to fit the airlock) then drop the other end into a bottle of water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 piece airlock.jpg


Did exactly this for the first time the other week, been thinking of doing it for a while. Works a treat.

I use starsan in the bottle


----------



## pat_00

Just received a brewmaster bucket from Auspost. Looking forward to using it this weekend for a stout.


----------



## Chris7

It seems as though not many people have got the FTSS? To those that do, do you think it works well? Thinking about getting a 7gal chronical and would love to not have it jammed in a fridge.


----------



## Bribie G

How would you supply the chilled water source for, say, ten days? Might be ok in Oregon in the winter when the local tap water is probably near freezing.


----------



## GalBrew

Bribie G said:


> How would you supply the chilled water source for, say, ten days? Might be ok in Oregon in the winter when the local tap water is probably near freezing.


Yeah the FTSS doesn't really seem like a convenient solution, I would rather use a fridge.


----------



## Frag_Dog

Without owning one, I would think you would have a bucket or something in a fridge / freezer with ~5L of water / glyco and pump it around in a loop.

I guess the advantage would be you could to more than one fermenter off of a fridge / freezer that could only fit one....


----------



## GalBrew

You also can't switch from cooling/heating, I just don't see the point if you still need a fridge to run your coolant out of. It's not all that cheap either.


----------



## angus_grant

I can't see the point of an FTSS for my setup where I'm really only fermenting maybe 2 batches at once on the odd occasion.

I can see the point where somebody was fermenting multiple batches at a time consistently. You just have a freezer or fridge cooling a big source of water for your fermentors instead of a bunch of fridges (or cold room).

Automatically switching from heating to cooling would be an issue in Brisbane I suppose. Probably end up replacing their control unit with STC 1000 and run pumps from cold fridge or hot urn. Or you purchase 2 FTSS's.

EDIT: I should say it reduces the volume problem. My system needs about 22L to fill malt pipe and cover heating element. This mesh pipe would need probably 1/4 that, so you could do reduced batch sizes for experimental brews or quicker school night brews. Hmm, not a bad idea: reduced height malt pipe for school night brewing. Do half the recipe each night, cube them, and then full ferment..


----------



## Chris7

Bribie G said:


> How would you supply the chilled water source for, say, ten days? Might be ok in Oregon in the winter when the local tap water is probably near freezing.


I would use the esky method, switching out frozen bottles etc. I guess it would be a bit of a pita, but just thought it would be pretty good. The other option would possibly be the Brewjacket Immersion, but getting one to aus will total over $400 so that stops that unfortunately. Perhaps getting another fridge will be the best option.


----------



## Chris7

I suppose the other option would be a reservoir in my keezer, perhaps a corny full of water.


----------



## zwitter

On the topic of FTSS, Has anyone considered using aquarium chiller to maintain fermenter temp? 
I saw the FTSS and wondered why? As there is no actual chilling or heating included.

They come in small versions with peltier( solid state cooler) and bigger ones with fridge type compressor coolers. Some have heat and cool options. Many rely on external pump and you would still need the stainless coil in the fermenter.

If they work could be up for a BB?.

James

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----------



## Bizenya

Black Devil Dog said:


> I haven't seen that, but I noticed some discolouration on the welds around the legs on the outside of the fermenter. Re-passivated it and now the discolouration is less noticeable.
> 
> Turn your fermenter over and see how those welds look, they could be the cause.


Legs look ok, bit of scoring but nothing out of the ord 

I've had it fermenting a AIPA for two weeks which is getting cold crashed and bottled next week so I'll check to see what it's like then-if worse might shoot em a line 

Cheers

Brett


----------



## GalBrew

Having picked up my 7gal Chronical today, I thought
I'd go through this thread. On the topic of pressurised transfers it does state that the receiving keg must be 'open to the atmosphere, otherwise the transfer may stall'. Also it is designed to vent at 3-4 psi, not 5. 5 is the max rating before you damage the vessel.


----------



## sav

If you want a fitting for the bucket for a ss option for a blow off use a SKIN FITTING from eBay. 
They have a barbed end in boat fittings. 
SAV


----------



## zwitter

Hi brewers

Ok I just picked up my Cronical7.
Has anyone bought extra tri clamp fittings?
I am a little miffed the valves only have tri clover fitting on one side!

I have seen lots on Ebay from China but wondering about quality?
Cheers

Zwitter


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----------



## Spiesy

zwitter said:


> Hi brewers
> 
> Ok I just picked up my Cronical7.
> Has anyone bought extra tri clamp fittings?
> I am a little miffed the valves only have tri clover fitting on one side!
> 
> I have seen lots on Ebay from China but wondering about quality?
> Cheers
> 
> Zwitter


What do you mean by a "tri clover fitting on one side". 

Both outputs on your Chronical should end with a ball valve.


----------



## Parks

I reckon he means the ball valve only has triclover on one side, the other side is threaded.


----------



## zwitter

Hi
Yes they have thread not Tri-clover or sanitary fittings. 

I know ball valves have been discussed as having "dead" zones in them qand wondering if anyone has tried any butterfly style valves from the China suppliers?
This is mentioned on the SS brewtech site.

Zwitter


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## Florian

zwitter said:


> I know ball valves have been discussed as having "dead" zones in them qand wondering if anyone has tried any butterfly style valves from the China suppliers?


These links show most of the gear that I have added, see also comments below those posts for clarification.

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81167-brewtech-ss-fermenting-vessels-discussion-thread/page-11#entry1217901

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81167-brewtech-ss-fermenting-vessels-discussion-thread/page-12#entry1218487

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81167-brewtech-ss-fermenting-vessels-discussion-thread/page-18#entry1242678

EDIT: all from ebay and aliexpress.


----------



## booargy

zwitter said:


> Hi
> Yes they have thread not Tri-clover or sanitary fittings.
> 
> I know ball valves have been discussed as having "dead" zones in them qand wondering if anyone has tried any butterfly style valves from the China suppliers?
> This is mentioned on the SS brewtech site.
> 
> Zwitter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


I got some from brewershardware got a 2" from another and the quality is similar the cheaper one did come with silicon seat though.
One on the left is the eBay type. I still buy the brewershardware so all my 1"1/2 are the same valve.


----------



## Spiesy

Parks said:


> I reckon he means the ball valve only has triclover on one side, the other side is threaded.


Got you. The other side is beer out. Not so much an issue.


----------



## Parks

It defeats the point of sanitary though if you have threads to deal with.


----------



## zwitter

Dam you Booargy!
brewershardware just had me for $300 plus shipping..... 
Lots more shiney on its way...
I think that may be a new place to spend my hard earned. You should be on commission. Thanks


I dabble in the art of TIG welding and tempted to put a second sanitary fitting in the lid. but it is so thin. might have to do lots more practice first.

james


----------



## Camo6

In regards to the leaking tap O ring issues I've had, I think I've found a solution. I bought a whole heap of silicone O rings somewhat thicker than the original 16mm ID x 1.8mm CSand of a softer composite. They're a tad too thick to replace the inside O ring without bulging but they squeeze up nice and tight in lieu of the outer O ring. I filled the bucket with water and tested and was able to rotate the tap freely in both directions multiple times without leaks.

I then really put it to the test last weekend by fermenting 19l of a wheat beer with 3068. Pushing the limits, I know, but figured a blow off tube should cover it...
Came home to find the blow off had stuck and yeast had spewed past the lid seal and filled the fridge with the smell of banana and cloves! But the tap seals held true!

I ordered another set of O rings in a size that fall between the two to see if they'll be a suitable replacement for the inner one but they may not be necessary now.


----------



## TOF

Recently got a Brew Bucket and wasn't happy with the way the ball valve assembly sealed, "o" rings don't
seal properly on chamfered faces and a curved surface, too many are having leak problems so I rolled up at
the Tool Room where I worked before I retired.
We have all seen the nuts that are used on weld less fittings have a recess machined on one face of the nut, took me 5 minutes to set up and fix the nuts supplied with the B.B., now a totally proper feel when you
tighten the nut and only with your fingers and the "o" ring don't try to slip out from under the nut,
hope this helps, Cheers, Ken.


----------



## Dan Pratt

Recently added a Thermowell to the Brewbucket, its having its maiden run currently after brewing a red ale yesterday.


----------



## breakbeer

That's next on my list of things to do. Where'd you get that one from?


----------



## Dan Pratt

Online through keg king. $35


----------



## blotto

I stuck mine through the lid, I like the fact I can buy a new lid if I want and I'm back to stock. Also no chance of leaks. http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=3480&SZIDX=0&CCODE=18766&QOH=46&CATID=311&CLN=1


----------



## Boozed

Florian said:


> Aliexpress.Also got a sanitary sample valve in the mail yesterday. Easy to pull apart for cleaning and great for sampling and transferring to keg.
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140904_124954.jpgAlso picked up my new fridge. Not quite sure yet what to do about the 'decorations', but so far I've cleaned off those JB stickers from the door and gave the inside floor a good spray paint to hide the rust.Turned it on to day and noticed that it is bloody loud! No way that fridge could live inside the house. Also can't find a way to turn the light off. Do these things usually come with an on/off switch? You would think in a shop setup you would be able to turn the lights off at night?
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_20140904_122159.jpg


Hey Florian, does the racking elbow fit into the sanitary valve? That looks like a much better option than pulling apart ball valves!


----------



## zwitter

Hey boozed
Check the SS Brewtech USA website for "sanitary racking adaptor" i just received mine through newera and it will get a run when my current belgian dubbel is done in the chronical7. Basically it is a lump of stainless with sanitary fittings both sides and a centre sized to take the racking arm. I was thinking of making a similar item when I saw this on USA site and ordered one.

Will let you know how it goes.

I love the chronical, so easy to clean. I have never used the ball valves. I bought butterfly valves from USA and stacks of other sanitary fittings from USA and China on ebay. It sits in a glass door fridge controlled by home made brewpi for perfect temperature control of fermentation. Next thing is to use a window on the sanitary connection on the lid with a T piece and have a camera so can see the yeast doing its thing...

James


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----------



## Boozed

Thanks zwitter, I will do just that. Sounds like you have one pimped out system! Look forward to the photos.


----------



## mikeybycrikey

Just did the same to mine TOF. Just machined a slightly bigger groove. Hope it works cos that slow dribble is mighty frustrating. Small leaks aside I'm really happy with my purchase of two brew buckets. Also ordered 50 replacement orings for $9.something shipped http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silicone-o-rings-Size-016-Price-for-50-pcs-/160961414852?hash=item257a0c46c4  (or thicker ones for $14ish http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silicone-o-rings-Size-114-Price-50-pcs-/200883500310?hash=item2ec596f516)


----------



## blekk

Fat Bastard said:


> Well, yes this is the theory espoused by traditional Newronian Physics. And a theory I whole heartlessly endorse, whether transferring under pressure or by gravity.
> 
> I think I'm gonna send an email to Brewtech about it. Dunno if I've got a dud or it's a problem they know about or it's only me. I reckon a vessel should be able to easily handle it's rated pressure, and be capable of handling at least three times that before it fails in a safe manner, and probably ten times the rated pressure before it fails catastrophically.


FB did you get a reply from Brewtech? Mine started leaking at exactly 4.2psi when attempting to ferment under light pressure. I could only put it down to the latches deforming or stretching and not providing equal tension around the lid.


----------



## Fat Bastard

No, still haven't sent it! I've been slowly bending the wire latches in and seeing how it goes. I'd be happy if mine held 4.2 though, last transfer I did under pressure it leaks at 2psi! It was still enough to get it flowing and complete the transfer.


----------



## blekk

Perhaps a drum locking ring would work better than a latch system...... hmmm I wonder.....


----------



## zwitter

A couple of photos of the chronical7 in the brewpi fermenter
Belgium Dubbel due to keg on Saturday
James


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----------



## Dan Pratt

zwitter said:


> A couple of photos of the chronical7 in the brewpi fermenter
> Belgium Dubbel due to keg on Saturday
> James


Hi James,

What is the tolerance setting you use for the BrewPi ?

I set my STC at +/- 0.3c using a thermowell for interanal temps.

Also, does that brewpi log the data for you ?


----------



## GalBrew

zwitter said:


> Hey boozed
> Check the SS Brewtech USA website for "sanitary racking adaptor" i just received mine through newera and it will get a run when my current belgian dubbel is done in the chronical7. Basically it is a lump of stainless with sanitary fittings both sides and a centre sized to take the racking arm. I was thinking of making a similar item when I saw this on USA site and ordered one.
> I bought butterfly valves from USA and stacks of other sanitary fittings from USA and China on ebay.


Apparently Brewtech are going to have their own butterfly valves soon according to the US website.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Pratty
The brewpi does log the lot. Up to 3 temps and when door is opened and closed when the heater or cooler is turned on and off etc. you can set the hysteresis but i used the default and the temp probe in thermowell in middle of conical says the temp only varies by 0.13 of a degree. Way better than it needs to be. Plus can set a temp profile and it will change and follow what ever you set. Amazing. Really looking forward to being able to ferment year round at the best temp for the yeast and have it 100% repeatable.

I am no linix expert but there is more that can be done with brewpi and I am slowly learning. I want to be able to save the log files and to be able to edit the web page. Both are possible and i am learning from my mistakes. There is oodles of info on the web.

As far as SŚBrewtechs own butterfly valves they said they would have them soon some time last year. I gave up waiting and was happy with what I got. Easy to strip down and clean. Parts available. Choice of seal material. For other bits i got from China i was happy with price but the items have little dents all over. For the sake of plastic caps they could have been perfect. 


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----------



## Boozed

Pratty1 said:


> Hi James,
> 
> What is the tolerance setting you use for the BrewPi ?
> 
> I set my STC at +/- 0.3c using a thermowell for interanal temps.
> 
> Also, does that brewpi log the data for you ?


"... InterANAL TEMPS..." Thought I was on the wrong forum for a moment there lol


----------



## Weizguy

Boozed said:


> "... InterANAL TEMPS..." Thought I was on the wrong forum for a moment there lol


depends if that word specific search brought you here....


----------



## vortex

Has anyone got a Chronical 17 gallon handy, and able to measure it up for me? I'm specifically looking for the outside diameter of the main fermenter body itself, I'm looking to design some Peltier blocks in solidworks and have them CNC machined. I ordered a 17g but I don't have it on hand yet and would like to get something moving. Seriously considering peltiers for cooling as I have a couple of fridges but due to the compressor hump the 17g won't fit without modifying the legs, and I don't fancy hunting for (or paying for) an all-fridge.

Has anyone heard when the lids with the 3" TC will be available? I'm very keen to get a CIP spray ball up and running; a 3" ferrule is available from brewers hardware but heard the lid is not very thick and would be a pain to weld.

Also, what is the weldless thermowell like in these? I hate weldless fittings and would have preferred a 1/2" TC - so it's kind of making me a bit nervous. I guess the ball valves are a bigger concern though, they definitely won't stay on mine very long.


----------



## vortex

Contacted their Support and they were most helpful:



> Hi James,
> 400 mm is the ID of the body ... the wall thickness is 1.1-1.2 mm nominal.
> Cheers
> Chad
> Ssupport


----------



## bingggo

I got the 14 gallon fermenter and disassembled the ball valves for clearing. The white seats in the 3/4" valve both have a chunk missing on their internal face. I'll ask the shop about replacement seats.

On both valves, the seats don't go back in flush despite my fingers of steel (less than a millimetre off flush). I'm not familiar with ball valves - do you just reassemble them slightly off flush and tightening the bolts pops them back in?

Cheers.


----------



## zwitter

I have the 7 gal Chonical.

Never used the ball valves. I ordered fittings from ebay out of china and they are ok.
Bought butterfly valves from USA about 50$ a piece. Rebuildable!
Got a glass flow tube and a glass end stop. All sanitary fittings.
I do prefer the sanitary fittings.
I got the sanitary fitting that takes the racking arm by SS brewtech.

I love the ease of use and cleaning.

It has the weld-less thermo well and it is ok. Has silicone seals and as long ascareful to clean it is good. I would have liked a sanitary fitting but not available.

The wall is very thin and welding would be a pain for anyone other than an expert or a computer welder.

Am thinking would like another but would make some changes. Really the lid should be held on like a huge sanitary fitting like a huge clamp around the outside.
Probably thicker walls. More sanitary fittings. Sturdier legs.

I do use pressure to purge the beer into kegs but keep pressure down as the lid will just flex if you push it.
James


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----------



## O-beer-wan-kenobi

Just received my 14gal chronically and some tsp to clean with. I don't have any instructions for the tsp, what ratio to water do you guys use for cleaning the stainless?


----------



## vortex

My 17G Chronical was just delivered 
Nice bit of kit! For the money it just can't be beaten I don't think. The Weldless thermometer probe isn't bad - It'll be simple to pop it out between batches and make sure it's clean - I'd be doing that with all the other fitting as well anyway. Latest version has a PRV in the lid to protect the unit, a very nice addition.

I have begun designing a peltier cooling system for it as it won't fit in my fridge. Does anyone have a resonable source for butterfly valves? Can't see any under $100 online.
I'm also planning on ordering the 3" TC lid the moment it's available in Australia so I can run CIP for cleaning and sanitising.



Untitled by vortexau, on Flickr



Untitled by vortexau, on Flickr



Untitled by vortexau, on Flickr

Will run the ball valves and fittings through the dishwasher on the weekend but the fermentor unfortunately won't get any wort in it for a little while until I can control the temps.


----------



## fdsaasdf

vortex said:


> Will run the ball valves and fittings through the dishwasher on the weekend but the fermentor unfortunately won't get any wort in it for a little while until I can control the temps.


Great pics, thanks. Why not put on a saison while you wait for temp control?


----------



## antiphile

I'm so jealous of you guys. I've got 2 of the standard 7 gallon (US gallons) brew buckets and I just love them. But I'm saving up for a half barrel chronical (from memory it might be 64 litres or so), and there are quite a few addons you can get (including chillers etc) designed for it.

There's also a link on the SS BrewTech page for the half barrel that gives intructions for a homemade glycol chiller IIRC, but I'm not smart enough to undertake it.


----------



## Clever Brewing Bloke

O-beer-wan-kenobi said:


> I don't have any instructions for the tsp, what ratio to water do you guys use for cleaning the stainless?


You've probably already done your own research on this  , but the recommended dose is 10g/L & HOT!!!

75-80C is going to get you where you want to be. Recirculation if you can do it, but otherwise, a good overnight soak, then flush with lots of hot tap water.

Passivate with a good acid solution (Strong Star-san will do it).

Good to go.


----------



## vortex

fdsaasdf said:


> Great pics, thanks. Why not put on a saison while you wait for temp control?


I'd already given that some thought and there's a chance I'll give that a go.



antiphile said:


> I'm so jealous of you guys. I've got 2 of the standard 7 gallon (US gallons) brew buckets and I just love them. But I'm saving up for a half barrel chronical (from memory it might be 64 litres or so), and there are quite a few addons you can get (including chillers etc) designed for it.


I'm actually considering getting a 7 gallon brew bucket for small batches/yeast starters 

Regarding the cooling, personally I don't want anything other than the conical itself and directly associated fittings touching the beer, but more importantly from what I can tell the SS brewtech solutions are kind of expensive and inflexible; having to maintain a cold water source for the duration of fermentation is something I would prefer not to bother with.

I've re-designed this https://conical-fermenter.com/AL-Block-394-Peltier-Cooling-Block-for-14.5-gal.-Fermenters.html to suit a SS Brewtech 17G and at the moment I am looking for someone who can draw it up in CAD for me, and then have it machined. I will use at least 3 cooling blocks on mine with 2 peltiers each. I'm considering what it would also take to mount at least one cooling block on the cone for small batches (pro conicals often have separate cone/upper half temp control).


----------



## vortex

Which TSP are you guys using to clean the conical and parts? Bunnings sell http://www.bunnings.com.au/cleaner-all-purpose-2-2kg-tricleanium-_p1670021 which is >99% TSP according to the MSDS. Kind of expensive.


----------



## GalBrew

vortex said:


> Which TSP are you guys using to clean the conical and parts? Bunnings sell http://www.bunnings.com.au/cleaner-all-purpose-2-2kg-tricleanium-_p1670021 which is >99% TSP according to the MSDS. Kind of expensive.


You can get a smaller tub of the stuff at Bunnings.


----------



## vortex

GalBrew said:


> You can get a smaller tub of the stuff at Bunnings.


I'd probably go the bigger one anyway, not a bad price and seems like decent gear for cleaning after doing some more reading.


----------



## vortex

I dismantled my ball valves tonight so I could wash them and the 1/2" was shockingly hard to get the ball out of. The 3/4" ball just slid out, as they also do on my brewery.

Did anyone else have issues with the 1/2" ball valve?


----------



## GalBrew

vortex said:


> I dismantled my ball valves tonight so I could wash them and the 1/2" was shockingly hard to get the ball out of. The 3/4" ball just slid out, as they also do on my brewery.
> 
> Did anyone else have issues with the 1/2" ball valve?


Mine came apart quite easily for the record.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Vortex
I have the Chronical 7 but the ball valves came apart easily, I just never put them back together as purchased butterfly valves from USA and other sanitary fittings from China.


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----------



## vortex

I contacted SS Brewtech on Thursday and they also said it's abnormal, and would probably send me a new valve. They would have to advise next week however due to Christmas.


----------



## Mr. No-Tip

Does anyone find powdered caustic will drop to the bottom of the cone and soldify, even in hot water? I guess pre dissolving would work, but it's pretty annoying! Might need to get some of the good liquid stuff for home.


----------



## Grainer

Just wondering if anyone has a 1/2 BBL (64L) SS chronical if you can measure the maximum width of it including attachments legs etc.. what eve the widest part is.. there are conflicting messages of witch 17" vs 18" is a big difference of me fitting it into my fridge..cheers


----------



## stilvia

Says on their site it is 18" wide by 37" high


----------



## Grainer

Did you read the post? Yeah and all other references are different To ss...looking for real measurements fom someone that owns one


----------



## 620rossco

I measured mine and I get 14 1/2 for the fermenter and the legs add 1 1/4 each side so a shade over 17 inches.
Due to the shape it is really difficult to measure. Maybe someone else can confirm.


----------



## vortex

I'm not sure what else you need Grainer. The manufacturer isn't going to provide a size which is wrong. The size provided in PM from me is correct. There is nothing that sticks out past the legs.

At some point you'll just have to trust the information you've already been provided.


----------



## Grainer

With all due respect Vortex. You stated 46cm without measuring. 620rosco says 43cm and measured it.. this is huge variation for me to get it into my fridge.. hence why i need confimation of exact maximum width.


----------



## stilvia

Grainer said:


> Did you read the post? Yeah and all other references are different To ss...looking for real measurements fom someone that owns one


Yeah I read your post. No where in your post did you say you were questioning the manufacturer's dimensions. I know that SS Brewtech don't list product dimensions in an easy to find spot, so just thought I'd be a helpful bloke and post them for you. Obviously not..


----------



## Grainer

stilvia said:


> Yeah I read your post. No where in your post did you say you were questioning the manufacturer's dimensions. I know that SS Brewtech don't list product dimensions in an easy to find spot, so just thought I'd be a helpful bloke and post them for you. Obviously not..


All good mate.. hence why this is frustrating.. wish they would just put up schematics..make life easier


----------



## vortex

Grainer said:


> With all due respect Vortex. You stated 46cm without measuring. 620rosco says 43cm and measured it.. this is huge variation for me to get it into my fridge.. hence why i need confimation of exact maximum width.


Well, I just measured mine and the 43cm is the size of the lid - and not the measurement you need. The legs welded to the main body, stick out past this to - guess what - 460mm!

Did you honestly think the manufacturers own blurb would be incorrect?


----------



## Grainer

Pulled the trigger ! next for all the accessories ! Bringing the bling..and a new stainless glass fridge ! Cause it wouldn't fit in the other by 1cm!

64L Big Jim and little 26L Shelly !


----------



## MastersBrewery

Can we get a envious/jealous button? Nice work Grainer.


----------



## Grainer

MastersBrewery said:


> Can we get a envious/jealous button? Nice work Grainer.


Brew bucket billy was hiding around the corner sculling RIS with Mangrove Jack 26L..building up the SS!


----------



## Grainer

I like this cleaning setup ! One big arse pump there


----------



## paulyman

So, we are all waiting Grainer. Was it 460mm exactly... ;-)


----------



## Grainer

470-475mm at widest point (measuring in the dark) Not accounting for the fact that the digital meter protrudes further.... hence the queries being justified ! Glad I got the new fridge tho.. very sparkly !

Just checking through the thread at pressure control during transfer ..thinking of an inline regulator straight from the cylinder to ensure no blowouts EVA ! plus a few other options


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Hopefully helps someone, but I bought some of the SS brewtech butterfly valves. I advise stripping down and TSP soaking/scrubbing. Lots of grease inside which works it's way onto the internal valve seal where your beer is in contact. TSP got the lot off except for some slight grease staining around where the valve spigot comes through the seal hole.


----------



## zwitter

Hi DJ-L3thal

What are the valves like quality wise?
I bought butterfly valves for mine but out of USA and they are very nice, even can get spare rubber seals etc. so much better than the ball valves. And cleaning is easy.

SS ones were not available back then.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Very very good quality. Nice smooth operation, good sturdy Spring on the handle latch. I've got one eBay Chinese type and it doesn't even fully close properly without fighting it. Sucks if you are trying to close and beer or yeast is spitting out everywhere! SS Brewtech all the way. Happy I bought two as I'll get a sanitary sample valve for the mid cone port and use my two butterfly valves to isolate a sight glass on the dump port to see what I'm dumping. Haven't checked dimensions though this may not work...


----------



## bullsneck

I'd love to see a photo of that setup when you sort it, please and thank-you.


----------



## 2much2spend

Grainer said:


> I like this cleaning setup ! One big arse pump there


 hey man nice setup even the fridge too! Do you have any pics of the inside of the cleaning setup. Do you use a spray ball?


----------



## stilvia

I purchased one of the SS Brewtech butterfly valves two brews back. I found it was actually fairly free of grease on tear down. Quality is top notch (although i dont have any others to compare it with). Very well made and feels like it's made to last.

This brew I purchased a sight glass and end cap. If you've got one of these fermenters, well worth the $60-70 investment to see when to dump trub/yeast.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Stilvia

Very similar to mine except mine is the Cronical7

I recommend putting closing caps on any open sanitary fittings to prevent any nasties getting in. I actually put a glass end cap on the top with a T piece so could look down and see what the Krausen was like.


James

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## themonkeysback

stilvia said:


> I purchased one of the SS Brewtech butterfly valves two brews back. I found it was actually fairly free of grease on tear down. Quality is top notch (although i dont have any others to compare it with). Very well made and feels like it's made to last.
> 
> This brew I purchased a sight glass and end cap. If you've got one of these fermenters, well worth the $60-70 investment to see when to dump trub/yeast.
> 
> IMG_2365.JPG


Where did you buy the sight glass/end cap?


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Link to such a glass piece?


----------



## stilvia

Links to the sight glass and end cap below. Free delivery as well. The machining quality is exceptional and received within 2 weeks. I prefer to shop locally but the only few places online that had them wanted $150 plus.



φ38mm 1.5'' SS316 Sanitary End Cap - $4


1.5" 38MM Flow Sanitary Sight Glass Tri Clamp Type Stainless Steel SS316 - $54


----------



## themonkeysback

stilvia said:


> Links to the sight glass and end cap below. Free delivery as well. The machining quality is exceptional and received within 2 weeks. I prefer to shop locally but the only few places online that had them wanted $150 plus.
> 
> φ38mm 1.5'' SS316 Sanitary End Cap - $4
> 1.5" 38MM Flow Sanitary Sight Glass Tri Clamp Type Stainless Steel SS316 - $54


Great, thanks mate.


----------



## Stunts

Got mine a month finaly organized enough to fill it up tomorrow


----------



## Stunts

Didnt work the first time


----------



## Bribie G

My original series brew bucket (7 US gallons model) sort of seals, but not a true kittens seal. So with the two piece airlock in place you can see a difference in levels of airlock liquid but no bubbling.

Is there something I should be doing with the silicone lid gasket, like hit it with keg lube before seating, or something? Nothing seems to be working.

Initially I got a very good seal with bubbling through the airlock.


----------



## Black Devil Dog

The lid on one of my Brewbuckets doesn't seal very well, it seems that 2 of the toggle latches don't pull down as firmly as they should.

I place a strip of poly dampcourse  between the latches and the lid, it seems to do the trick.


----------



## Bribie G

Right on, that seems to be the case here as well, I thought they weren't pulling down properly because of faults in the seating of the gasket, as opposed to a fault in the latches, will find something to use as a "shim" and will report back.

Hey that's a cute arse litle airlock thingo, what's that?


----------



## Camo6

Please keep this thread on topic Bribie and post relevant questions in the Steri Lock thread.


----------



## Black Devil Dog

SteriLock, as Camo said. I mostly just use them when lagering.


----------



## barls

Camo6 said:


> Please keep this thread on topic Bribie and post relevant questions in the Steri Lock thread.


thats funny cause he just got told the same in the sterilock thread.


----------



## Bribie G

I should start a new thread about how to fit a kitten into a sterilock when fitted to a SS Brew Bucket and why isn't my kitten bubbling.

Camo's got you covered, Barls


----------



## barls

Bribie G said:


> I should start a new thread about how to fit a kitten into a sterilock when fitted to a SS Brew Bucket and why isn't my kitten bubbling.


you have to use the orange hair kittens for them to bubble.


----------



## Bribie G

Well, isn't it amazing how the Universe works out.
A few days ago I unpacked a thingo I'd bought online and part of the packaging included some cute little cardboard rectangles. It occurred to me that if a man went out to actually buy such things they would be unobtainable, and surely such sensible looking items would some day come to the rescue.




So I put them in my box of useful things in the brewhouse.





We have bubbling........kittens will not face the same fate as NSW greyhounds. ..... This will henceforth be called the Black Devil Dog Manoevre.


----------



## Parks

I haven't read back through all the pages but was there a reason you couldn't bend the latches a little to put more pressure on Bribie?


----------



## Bribie G

I have a bad history of totally destroying things when I fiddle with them.


----------



## zwitter

I think SS actually have a guide on how to bend the latches with a couple of screwdrivers, macgyver style!

Mine still seem to work but i use bugga all pressure when transferring to kegs.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Bribie G




----------



## MastersBrewery

Bribie G said:


> sleeping dogs.png


Reported! Totally off topic those aren't kittens ffs, dogs are for helping with mashing and boiling. Nothing to do with shiny bling fermenters!


----------



## Stunts

Hey Guys, I am just working out how to transfer the beer from my 1bbl to kegs just wondering if anyone had any pics of there set up which could make things abit easier for myself
Cheers


----------



## Grainer

Stunts said:


> Hey Guys, I am just working out how to transfer the beer from my 1bbl to kegs just wondering if anyone had any pics of there set up which could make things abit easier for myself
> Cheers


In the process of setting mine up.. but there are plenty of pics on google with spunding valves etc..

e.g. 
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=579308


----------



## Stunts

Thanks will have a look


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Seen a few in this thread were having dramas earlier with the various options of airlock versus blow-off on buckets and chronicals.

Recently had issues with a Sterilock as posted here http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/86659-sterilock-airlock/page-2 so implemented a blow off tube. Worked great until I decided to be an idiot and dump the yeast from the bottom valve on my Chronical. I completely ignored physics and left my blow off installed. Next few days wondered why I was no longer hearing the bubbling of the blow off in the starsan. Figured out yesterday when I looked into the blow off jug to see half the starsan (~100mL) was missing. Once I lifted the hose above the liquid level I heard the blow off tube filled with starsan drop a whack of starsan into the brew and a little bit into the blow off jug :S 

What are people doing when taking samples or dumping out the bottom, simply swapping over to a Sterilock or Airlock and returning to a blow off? Problem with that for me and I assume others is that you gotta remove the triclover from the top, exposing the fermenter to the room air potentially.

Thinking a tee piece with a 3-way valve could be handy, one side blow off and one side Sterilock (or other sanitary air filter), or even a CO2 bottle to counter the increased volume when drawing out liquid. Can't think of anything else unless I choose to live with the small risk by opening the top of the Chronical to change it over.


----------



## mckenry

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> Seen a few in this thread were having dramas earlier with the various options of airlock versus blow-off on buckets and chronicals.
> 
> Recently had issues with a Sterilock as posted here http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/86659-sterilock-airlock/page-2 so implemented a blow off tube. Worked great until I decided to be an idiot and dump the yeast from the bottom valve on my Chronical. I completely ignored physics and left my blow off installed. Next few days wondered why I was no longer hearing the bubbling of the blow off in the starsan. Figured out yesterday when I looked into the blow off jug to see half the starsan (~100mL) was missing. Once I lifted the hose above the liquid level I heard the blow off tube filled with starsan drop a whack of starsan into the brew and a little bit into the blow off jug :S
> 
> What are people doing when taking samples or dumping out the bottom, simply swapping over to a Sterilock or Airlock and returning to a blow off? Problem with that for me and I assume others is that you gotta remove the triclover from the top, exposing the fermenter to the room air potentially.
> 
> Thinking a tee piece with a 3-way valve could be handy, one side blow off and one side Sterilock (or other sanitary air filter), or even a CO2 bottle to counter the increased volume when drawing out liquid. Can't think of anything else unless I choose to live with the small risk by opening the top of the Chronical to change it over.


Sanitary Air filter here. If I am really energetic, I'll then purge that (sanitary) air with CO2. Some debate whether or not this really works, so thats why I sometimes do or dont. Hasn't seemed to make any difference to the packaged product. I tend to only do these days if I know the beer will be sitting for longer than normal before kegging.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

What size barb fittings are on those filters? I assume for 5mm ID beer/gas line.

I'm contemplating just making an adaptor so I can just remove the blow off from the stars an and connect CO2 in at a very low pressure of 1psi to allow sample taking and then just put back into starsan. I'd typically have a co2 bottle next to my ferment fridge anyway so it wouldn't be a huge hassle. Thoughts?


----------



## zwitter

I have a Tpiece on the top of my Chronical 7 mounted onts side and a glass window in the top of the straight and a 1/2 barbed fitting on the side going to the blow off jug of starsan. 
I haven't the new rotatable sanitaty style racking arm and a sanitary sample valve on that too.
At the bottom I have a sanitary butterfly valve and usually a cap on the bottom.

Looks really good with all the extra bling. 
I can look down the top and see what is happening so no lifting the lid. 
When I want to drop yeast or move to Keg i lift the tube from the blow off and use a ball valve/ bottle carbonation fitting and connect to low pressure CO2. The connection at the CO2 is very loose so any pressure over 1-2psi and it leaks to stop over pressure of the fermenter.
I have a temp probe in the thermometer hole connected to a brewpi in the fridge to give perfect temps.
I use the racking arm and sample valve as output to keg. At the keg I open the lid and have purge CO2 flowing in there as well. It works well.

I would like a quality regulator that can actually deliver 1 or 2 psi but very low pressure regs are expensive. Spunding valves tend to trip and then not re-seal.

One way to prevent sucking the blow off in is to permanently have positive CO2 pressure but must be at very low pressure and to get it to work correctly is very difficult but possible but really not for home brewers.

A simpler way for avoiding getting the starsan in the fermenter is to have the blow off pipe have a large diameter section in its length so that if you suck it gets to the wide section and sucks all the blow off in and then sucks air past/ through the starsan and into fermenter. Better than the liquid.

I plan to try getting a better spunding valve maybe using a valve and pressure sensor and an electronic circuit to control it. I have searched for mechanical valves but still looking.

I do love the SS though, so much better than plastic.

Currently it has a brewdog punk IPA clone in it. 

Got to get out more I think

Zwitter
James
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Black Devil Dog

Could use a refractometer, that way you draw a very small amount out, so any air sucked in, is a bare minimum and you could keep your blow-off setup as it is..

I don't do it, but I'm thinking it might be a worthwhile idea.


----------



## 2much2spend

Black Devil Dog said:


> Could use a refractometer, that way you draw a very small amount out, so any air sucked in, is a bare minimum and you could keep your blow-off setup as it is..
> 
> I don't do it, but I'm thinking it might be a worthwhile idea.


doesn't a refractometer only measure unfermented sugars?


----------



## stilvia

There are calculators to convert fermenting gravity with a refractometer. I use a refactometer as I only need to take a small sample.


----------



## Mardoo

The only time I've found refractometers to be problematic is when you're doing multiple sugar additions during fermentation. Then some drift between the calculations and reality starts to show.


----------



## tugger

Does anyone know if there's a brew shop in Sydney that has a ss brewmaster bucket on the shelf ready to purchase now.


----------



## 2much2spend

stilvia said:


> There are calculators to convert fermenting gravity with a refractometer. I use a refactometer as I only need to take a small sample.


can you suggest a calculator?


----------



## Mardoo

The one in Beersmith works well. PM me your email and I can send you an adjustment chart by email. Posted it in a few refrac threads and don't have time ATM.

Edit: Time made itself. Here's the adjustment doc. I got it from someone on here, but can't remember who, so apologies for no attribution.

View attachment Refractometer_Chart___During_Fermentation___Brix_to_SG.pdf


----------



## stilvia

2much2spend said:


> can you suggest a calculator?


http://onebeer.net/refractometer.shtml


----------



## meathead

My Brewbucket is not air tight any more
No bubbling in airlock during fermentation
I have put in a temporary fix by placing folded paper between the clamps and the lid to get a tighter seal and it works
No big deal but a bit disappointing from a piece of kit that cost $250 and has only been used maybe 20 times
Also the welds failed on one of the handles

Any suggestions would be much appreciated


----------



## stilvia

meathead said:


> My Brewbucket is not air tight any more
> No bubbling in airlock during fermentation
> I have put in a temporary fix by placing folded paper between the clamps and the lid to get a tighter seal and it works
> No big deal but a bit disappointing from a piece of kit that cost $250 and has only been used maybe 20 times
> Also the welds failed on one of the handles
> 
> Any suggestions would be much appreciated


Here's a link:
https://ssbrewtech.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202956225-Is-there-a-way-to-adjust-the-lid-clamps-on-a-Brew-Bucket-


----------



## evildrakey

Bribie G said:


> After more research, the following seems to be the accepted facts:
> 
> It will *not *do so if it's not bare metal: i.e some grease or other substance on the surface that will prevent the layer of chromium dioxide developing.


actually... Stainless Steel in air if you are doing it right will passivate to Chromium(III) oxide


----------



## zwitter

Hi Meathead
Have you raised this with where you bought it?
Or with importer/agent Newera
Or with feedback to SS Brewtech?

The clips can be bent
The handle is spot welded so many car body repairers should be able to put a few welds to hold it in place again? Would need to be careful not to make holes.

Could make handle arrangement that strapped on too i guess

I have Cronical7 and while I love it I think the foil it is made from is a bit thin and some of the welds are light for purpose. I try to be very careful lifting it when it is full.

Zwitter
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## meathead

Thanks for the replies 
Unfortunately it's out of warrantee


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

zwitter said:


> I have a Tpiece on the top of my Chronical 7 mounted onts side and a glass window in the top of the straight and a 1/2 barbed fitting on the side going to the blow off jug of starsan.
> I haven't the new rotatable sanitaty style racking arm and a sanitary sample valve on that too.
> At the bottom I have a sanitary butterfly valve and usually a cap on the bottom.
> 
> Looks really good with all the extra bling.
> I can look down the top and see what is happening so no lifting the lid.
> When I want to drop yeast or move to Keg i lift the tube from the blow off and use a ball valve/ bottle carbonation fitting and connect to low pressure CO2. The connection at the CO2 is very loose so any pressure over 1-2psi and it leaks to stop over pressure of the fermenter.
> I have a temp probe in the thermometer hole connected to a brewpi in the fridge to give perfect temps.
> I use the racking arm and sample valve as output to keg. At the keg I open the lid and have purge CO2 flowing in there as well. It works well.
> 
> I would like a quality regulator that can actually deliver 1 or 2 psi but very low pressure regs are expensive. Spunding valves tend to trip and then not re-seal.
> 
> One way to prevent sucking the blow off in is to permanently have positive CO2 pressure but must be at very low pressure and to get it to work correctly is very difficult but possible but really not for home brewers.
> 
> A simpler way for avoiding getting the starsan in the fermenter is to have the blow off pipe have a large diameter section in its length so that if you suck it gets to the wide section and sucks all the blow off in and then sucks air past/ through the starsan and into fermenter. Better than the liquid.
> 
> I plan to try getting a better spunding valve maybe using a valve and pressure sensor and an electronic circuit to control it. I have searched for mechanical valves but still looking.
> 
> I do love the SS though, so much better than plastic.
> 
> Currently it has a brewdog punk IPA clone in it.
> 
> Got to get out more I think
> 
> Zwitter
> James
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Please send link or pics of said glass tri clamp piece. Where'd your get from? I like to watch...

I think I'm gonna go for the slight positive co2 pressure route for sampling and kegging. How about cold crashing? It really gets a lot of starsan sucked up the hose... The sterilock is an absolute POS. Might get a sanitary air filter and try that...


----------



## zwitter

Hi Dj
Has a brewdog punk IPA clone in it in the brewpi fridge but should be able to take a photo later in the week.

Will look for the order details too but this week is just madness at work and home but will see what I can do.

It is a sanitary fitting with a thread on the other side with silicone washer, ground glass tablet, silicone washer and a threaded cap with a hole. Works well but I thonk came from USA as the Chinese ones did not seem to exist?.

Got the butterfly valves on the same order.

Was some time back.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## zwitter

Hi Dj

Ok the IPA is in the kegs

Here are the photos of the looking glass I use on the top of the chronical7.

Will find where it came from shortly
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Nifty! Thanks for postin


----------



## Black Devil Dog

Copied this photo from the Brewtech site, showing how to fix the clamps.


----------



## zwitter

Hi DJ

Found where I got the sight glass.

https://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Compatible-Process-View-Sight-Class.html

I made a big order when the dollar was at parity and got 2 butterfly valves and a few other bits. never seen this particular type of sight glass on the Chinese sites?

zwitter
james


----------



## MastersBrewery

Stilldragon usually has the sight glasses in stock, quick local shipping.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Florian said:


> These links show most of the gear that I have added, see also comments below those posts for clarification.
> 
> http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81167-brewtech-ss-fermenting-vessels-discussion-thread/page-11#entry1217901
> 
> http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81167-brewtech-ss-fermenting-vessels-discussion-thread/page-12#entry1218487
> 
> http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81167-brewtech-ss-fermenting-vessels-discussion-thread/page-18#entry1242678
> 
> EDIT: all from ebay and aliexpress.





zwitter said:


> A couple of photos of the chronical7 in the brewpi fermenter
> Belgium Dubbel due to keg on Saturday
> James
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD



Guys who have the sanitary sample valves from eBay (ie. this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-5-Tri-Clamp-Sanitary-Sample-Valve-Elliptic-Handle-Ferrule-OD-50-5MM-SS304-Hot-/191539666431?hash=item2c98a75dff:g:yQAAAOSwv0tVCnGv)... do you have any issues with rust in yours? When I bought mine it was a bit oily but I did a real good soak and scrub in TSP, then hot PBW, then rinsed and soaked in passivation strength star san and let air dry in same fashion I did my Chronical upon receipt. I have noticed today when pulling apart that the rust seems to have appear on the rough inner surface.

Any thoughts as to what I could use to attack this and bring it back into clean SS? Another option is to claim back on the eBay seller and ask for another one but shipping is slooooooooow. Pics below...

View attachment 91292
View attachment 91293
View attachment 91294


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL




----------



## blekk

Roll up one of those green scouring pads and pass it through like a pipe cleaner a few times. Just looks to be some surface rust and should clean off quite easy.


----------



## brewdjoffe

Sorry if this question has already been answered - I'm planning on brewing a DIPA in my SS Brewbucket this weekend. I found the recipe on BYO - https://byo.com/mead/item/2808-hop-stands

19L Brew, OG = 1.074, FG = 1.012, ABV = 8%

Considering it has a pretty high OG do you think I need a blow off valve? The SS Brew bucket is about 26.5 litres as I understand so there is room for the Krausen to build, but I will be pitching 2 packets of Safale US-05 (rehydrated), so I imagine that fermentation will be pretty vigorous. 

I currently just have a standard airlock. If I were to use a blow off tube, do you guys recommend the 10mm piping from Bunnings? 

Thanks for your help


----------



## pat_00

I did a 19L 1.10 OG Imperial Stout in mine, definitely needed a blow off tube. 1/2" Silicon hose works great just pushed into the hole.


----------



## Camo6

Doesn't hurt to use a blow off with your BB. Takes two seconds to set up which is a quarter of the time it takes to clean up a krausen eruption. 
I use good 1/2" ID silicone hose which makes a good seal in the existing hole and doesn't kink easily. Straight into a half filled 1-2l bottle with a bit of foil wrapped around the mouth. I use a sanitised bottle with sterile water incase you catch some yeast. Tried it with starsan but the recovered yeast was kaput.

Just be aware if you take a large sample or cold crash and your unit is well sealed, it will draw water up the hose which can end up in the beer.


----------



## zwitter

I have Chronical7 and only ever use a blow off into a tall thin jug with starsan in it. I have had yeast everywhere when doing a wheat beer as they just go mad really quickly but was not a problem with the blow off.

I use low pressure CO2 pressure to keep O2 away when transferring and actually use the blow off tube to apply it so have never sucked the starsan in.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## TidalPete

> Quote
> Just be aware if you take a large sample or cold crash and your unit is well sealed, it will draw water up the hose which can end up in the beer.


Agree here with Camo6 but remember that the bigger the diameter of your blow-off tube, the less likely that this will occur.
Widening the lid hole to suit an 18mm ss barb & food-grade tube seems to have resolved the above problem.

With the BB having so small a volume, a blow-off tube is a must-have. Sterilise the container correctly & you have the perfect volcanic yeast collection receptacle.


----------



## fdsaasdf

I've read this thread start to finish and searched around, but haven't located an answer so far... Can anyone tell me the precise dimensions of the Brew Bucket 7 with the stopper installed?

The SS brewing website says 20.6" height x 12.5" width. Note that height does NOT include stopper, bubbler, and blow off setup (~53cm x 32cm); but I can't seem to find a measurement of the stopper.

I have a small fridge under my bar that I'd like to use it in... usable space is around 38 (w) x 40 (d) x 61 (h) - will this be too tight?


----------



## Moad

meathead said:


> Thanks for the replies
> Unfortunately it's out of warrantee



if purchased in Australia you can refer to the Australian Consumer Guarantee to deal with warranty. I'd consider that to be a major fault which means you are entitled to a replacement, repair or refund.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Meathead

I actually have a spotwelder if you are in Sydney I could have a go at reattaching the handle?
James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Weizguy

fdsaasdf said:


> I've read this thread start to finish and searched around, but haven't located an answer so far... Can anyone tell me the precise dimensions of the Brew Bucket 7 with the stopper installed?
> 
> The SS brewing website says 20.6" height x 12.5" width. Note that height does NOT include stopper, bubbler, and blow off setup (~53cm x 32cm); but I can't seem to find a measurement of the stopper.
> 
> I have a small fridge under my bar that I'd like to use it in... usable space is around 38 (w) x 40 (d) x 61 (h) - will this be too tight?


Do you need the stopper AND airlock height? I'll measure it today, if you provide me with your requirements.

Frankly, you could easily just leave the lid off and use clingo wrap.


----------



## 2much2spend

Can someone pls show me the link on the cheaper tri clover butterfly valves.


----------



## fdsaasdf

Les the Weizguy said:


> Do you need the stopper AND airlock height? I'll measure it today, if you provide me with your requirements.
> 
> Frankly, you could easily just leave the lid off and use clingo wrap.


Stopper and airlock height would be very helpful. I do suppose you're correct that I needn't cease using the costco roll of cling wrap just because I am moving on from my plastic fermenter, but I am still keen to know!


----------



## zwitter

Hi 2much2spend
I posted earlier in this thread the place I purchased butterfly valves from in the USA. Not the cheapest though but the dollar was more favorable back then. I did buy sample valve with sanitary/triclover mount from China and elbows and T fittings and they have all been good quality. I can not speak for the China butterfly valves but realistically they probably all come from the same place. I think I spent $350 USD in the US site and probably over $150 in the chinese sellers mainly through ebay. 

Some of the bits I purchased I could not find in ebay.
I had a T piece I was not happy with and they sent be another one FOC so I bought more through same seller.

If you can not find whatyou are after I can look up the place I went to but cheap was not my main concern, I went for known quality and a place that would be around to back the product and sell spares.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Weizguy

fdsaasdf said:


> Stopper and airlock height would be very helpful. I do suppose you're correct that I needn't cease using the costco roll of cling wrap just because I am moving on from my plastic fermenter, but I am still keen to know!


The stopper is the same height as the latch ~ 527 mm, and to the top of the airlock ~ 615 mm.
Pic 1 - stopper and short 3-piece airlock



Pic 2 - entire vessel


Pic 3 - 50 litre Aginox stainless olive oil drum (similar total height for comparison ~ 530 mm)


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Those with the sanitary sample valves, any nifty ideas to make the silicone transfer hose fit leak tight on the barb? I've got hose clamps but almost end up snapping the plastic butterfly part tightening up so much given the valve barb is much smaller than the 1/2" silicone hose. I'd like to keep the silicone hose so I can sterilise it better than PVC or other materials. Unsure if there are suppliers of smaller ID silicone hose at brewing shop prices?


----------



## zwitter

Hi DJ_L3thal

Really? I have a sanitary sample valve and 1/2" silicone is a good tight fit no clamps? Admittedly I would not have any great pressure as it is used to do a gravity feed to kegs with about 2-3 psi co2 pressure in the fermenter just to keep the O2 away.

I can photo and measure my valve and hose tonight if that helps. 

Silicone hose comes in lots of sizes and thicknesses.
James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## DJ_L3ThAL

Where'd you get your valve? I've got two now from different eBay sellers, I'll measure the valve barb but at a guess it's 6mm so 1/4" not 1/2"?


----------



## Camo6

Yo Deej. Craftbrewer used to sell 10mm ID silicone hose. Assume they still do. Have a few metres in the shed. Works a treat on the brew bucket, the auto-sparge and even the Perlicks as a bottle filler. One of the handiest additions to the brewery.
Anything smaller and you might want to try an aquarium supplier. That's where I got my O2 airstone hose from.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Looks like they only have 12.7mm ID.

Found this ebay seller but still a bit exxy... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Silicon-Tube-Hose-Medical-Food-Grade-ID-from-0-5mm-to11mm-/121841722645?var=&hash=item1c5e552515:m:mWz_9mCJuyGyKmuev7v65-Q


----------



## Camo6

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3539

Au contraire.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Legend.


----------



## welly2

Alright, the beer I've been making today will be my second batch I'm fermenting through my Chronical. First beer I just fermented it as I normally do with a plastic fermenter. Obviously not taking advantage of the ability to dump trub, so my question is about dumping trub. When should I do it? And then just literally open up the bottom valve and let it pour out until I see beer? I assume it's as simple as that!


----------



## zwitter

Hi welly2

Just wondering if you have loaded up a Chronical and then opened the bottom valve?

Ok on mine I have butterfly valves ant it empties in just a handful of seconds!

But what you say is correct just open and flow until clear!

I would suggest a clean container incase you need to put some back in the top.


James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## welly2

zwitter said:


> Hi welly2
> 
> Just wondering if you have loaded up a Chronical and then opened the bottom valve?
> 
> Ok on mine I have butterfly valves ant it empties in just a handful of seconds!
> 
> But what you say is correct just open and flow until clear!
> 
> I would suggest a clean container incase you need to put some back in the top.
> 
> 
> James
> Zwitter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Yeah, butterfly valves will be the next upgrade. Where did you get yours from?

Also found this short article with some useful info: http://byo.com/mead/item/524-cylindroconical-fermenters-advanced-brewing


----------



## zwitter

Hi Dj L3thal

Ok so I took a photo of my valve and where I bought it from
https://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-X-1-2-Sample-Valve.html

Hope that helps.
James
Zwitter



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## zwitter

Hi Welly2

I purchased my butterfly valves same place
https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15VBFVPT.html
They work really well easy enough to strip down and can buy replacement parts.
When they first arrived one of the nuts was missing but an easy bit to replace.
I bought 2 but then actually not used the second as i also got the sample valve.

Am planning to use two and a glass tube sight glass thing to sample the yeast out the bottom ? 

Most of the time I just leave the yeast in the bottom but I do not do much racking to anything other than a keg.

The idea of conical is to reduce the surface are of the yeast cake?

I love the conical, it just never stuffs up. Just does what it is meant to do. But I have swapped the valves and added a few extra bits on the top.
James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Shibby

Im having issues with both my ss brewbuckets tap ball valve and racking adapter. On one bucket I cant turn the tap/adapter in any direction without loosening the nut and causing a leak.
The other brewbucket can turn clockwise a little but still loosens. Can anyone please share how the installed theirs, and how tight they make it thanks.


----------



## Camo6

Shibby said:


> Im having issues with both my ss brewbuckets tap ball valve and racking adapter. On one bucket I cant turn the tap/adapter in any direction without loosening the nut and causing a leak.
> The other brewbucket can turn clockwise a little but still loosens. Can anyone please share how the installed theirs, and how tight they make it thanks.


I had the same issue. I bought some silicone o rings off ebay and use them in place of the outer o ring. They are thicker and softer than the original so they seal perfectly and allow the tap to turn easily. I still use the genuine o ring on the inside of the bucket. I don't tend to use the racking arm anymore as I had it block with yeast or misalign too many times.

Can't remember the size of the o ring but they were the same diameter as the original but atleast twice the thickness.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Shibby

I would suggest some food grade lube too.

I have the racking adapter for the sanitary fittings on my chronical7 and it turns so much better if there is some lube on the sanitary fittings and orings.


Cammo6
I always turn the racking arm to face down during the ferment and then up if required when racking. Never had a blockage yet.
James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

For food grade lube it's worth mentioning the 'Skerra' lube that national homebrew sells (not sure if others do), literally is THE LUBE TO BEAT ALL LUBES! Hahah, did I say that out loud?

Anyway, it's so good you hardly need any and it lasts even in mechanical seals or seals with lots of movement (ie. keg posts, keg lids, poppers, brew bucket tap orings)... you get the drift!


----------



## kaiserben

I'm thinking about buying either the Brewbucket or Brewmaster Bucket. 

With the Brewmaster version, I don't really want the thermometer thingo, but would like to access the thermowell for the probe from my temp controller. I assume that's what most people do with it? 

And/or are people just happy with the Brewbucket version and taping a temp probe to the side with a little insulation?


----------



## hairydog

I use my brewbucket digital indicator because it is more accurate than the probe that came with mt STC-1000.

 Both were compared against a thermopen,the ferm fridge just controls the temperature to a bucket of water the STC

probe sits in and I adjust until the brewbucket is at right reading.


----------



## zwitter

Hi
I have the Chronical7 but the thermo well is probably identical.
I actually use a brewpi to control the fridge for fermentation. The brewpi has many temp sensors of the one-wire type. I got one of the probes and put thermo pase in the thermo well and then pushed the probe down to the end and then silicone to seal the end. This then sits in the side and the temp is of the liquid in the chronical7. There are also temp of the inside of the fridge and ambient.

I have a Thermopen and know the temp is within .2 of a degree but the point is repetition as much as accuracy in this application. The DS18B20 are generally very good at repetition and accuracy 

Thermo wells can be purchased locally and fitted. The Chronical came with one but not with the actual temp gauge.

As mentioned before i changed most of the accessories on my Chonical7

Love it though

James
Zwitter

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## kaiserben

I'm also using DS18B20 with a Pi controller, so that sounds promising.


----------



## panspermian

Due to personal circumstances (wife and I separated in Feb), I've been splurging quite a bit this year. 
I can't really afford it but I got the 64L chronical fermenter on order.
Material things make me happy...... [emoji53]

I can't even brew where I've been living for the last 10 months.

At least now I can follow threads like this......

Tramadol keeping me up tonight [emoji15]


----------



## Mardoo

Dude, been there. Shit. The struggle to regain my balance. Brewing is definitely part of that balance for me. I get it.


----------



## BKBrews

So I've been tossing up whether to purchase the brewmaster brew bucket.... I've just been given a Tilt Brewometer, so I no longer really need the temp gauge to check the temp.

Is it worth still getting the one with the thermowell to plug in my temp control, or should I just buy the brew bucket with no thermowell and save myself $65?


----------



## bingggo

I find if I tighten my thermowell into position with a spanner as I believe the instructions suggest, the o ring warps out of position, but finger tightening seems to do the trick.


----------



## fdsaasdf

panspermian said:


> Tramadol keeping me up tonight


Not combined with alcohol I hope!


----------



## panspermian

fdsaasdf said:


> Not combined with alcohol I hope!


Ha, no way [emoji4]

Haven't had a drink for prob two weeks.


----------



## fdsaasdf

So I finally got my brewbucket, and am too impatient to wait for the steel shelf I plan to put in my small fermenting fridge so I don't have room for a blow-off tube just yet. First brew is in with clingwrap over the top, looks very schmick!


----------



## Lethaldog

Just about to buy the SS 17G conical, getting pretty excited! 
Who's got them? Are they as good as they look? Pros, cons?


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

I've got a 7 gal.

Love it.


----------



## Brownsworthy

I've got the 14gal and it is absolutely brilliant for my needs. Have done single batches and doubles of 46L with no worries. 
With being able to remove the trub and yeast from the bottom tap I have been able to produce beautifully clear beer without using any clearing agents at all.

Cheers


----------



## Black Devil Dog

There's a 14 gal Brewbucket on the way.

I've already got 2, 7 gals and I'm tossing up whether to grab another couple of 7s or go the 14. 

Pros and cons with both for me.


----------



## Lethaldog

Black Devil Dog said:


> There's a 14 gal Brewbucket on the way.
> 
> I've already got 2, 7 gals and I'm tossing up whether to grab another couple of 7s or go the 14.
> 
> Pros and cons with both for me.


 I rarely ever brew single batches which is why I'm going for the 17g conical, usually brew about 50-55L at a time so the brewbucket was not big enough for me but I guess it depends on the individual, how much room you have and how much you brew at once!


----------



## Black Devil Dog

I always brew double batches too and that's why the bigger Brewbucket appeals to me, but it would be a pretty tight fit in my fermenting fridge and the weight of it when full is my other issue.


----------



## Mr B

Lethaldog said:


> Just about to buy the SS 17G conical, getting pretty excited!
> Who's got them? Are they as good as they look? Pros, cons?


Ive been considering this too. New Era Brewing have them for $900 at the moment.


----------



## Lethaldog

I've just ordered one through them, Gary was very helpful and a pleasure to deal with, just have to pay the funds today when they clear and my new shiny kit will be on its way [emoji41]


----------



## Lethaldog

Woohoo my new shiny chronical arrived today, you reckon I'm just a little bit excited[emoji16]


----------



## zwitter

I have Chronical 7 and love it
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Brewnicorn

I love the look of these Chronical numbers. The reasons for them is pretty obvious but I'm tempted by the Mangrove Jacks as an entry-level stainless start.


----------



## DJ_L3ThAL

Hot tip- ALDI dolleys currently on sale $15, the round type are PERFECT size for the 7 gal...


----------



## malt junkie

My glass door fridge that houses my 20Gal stout conical is on wheels, I just wheel the the whole thing over, fill, wheel it back, plug it in. Put better casters on the ferment fridge. 



ED: punctuation


----------



## gezzanet

malt junkie said:


> My glass door fridge that houses my 20Gal stout conical is on wheels, I just wheel the the whole thing over, fill, wheel it back, plug it in. Put better casters on the ferment fridge.
> 
> 
> 
> ED: punctuation


Looking for a glass door fridge. Got a picture for some ideas. Cheers


----------



## Lethaldog

Just got finished cleaning and passivating my new chronical for the first time and noticed on the outside of it that it looks a bit streaky almost like that slicky look you get when there is oil on the road and it gets wet if that makes sense, is it anything to worry about?


----------



## Black Devil Dog

Probably not. I remember there was quite a bit of dirty liquid coming off mine when I did my Brewbuckets a couple of years ago. I passivated them 2-3 times just to be sure.


----------



## Lethaldog

Good to know, I'm a bit upset cos it's not as shiny now though!


----------



## Black Devil Dog

It should look shiny. What did you passivate it with?


----------



## Lethaldog

Starsan, I did exactly by the book but on the outside I just sprayed it on and left it to dry and now the outside has that oil slick look but the insides fine as far as I can tell, maybe I should have just left the outside but I didn't think it would be a problem!


----------



## Black Devil Dog

The streakiness will clean off and doing the outside is good. I'd just do it again and if you want to be extra certain, do it a 3rd time.

Better to spend a bit more time cleaning it than dump a batch of beer by rushing.


----------



## Lethaldog

Just re cleaned and it's a bit better but still there, hopefully it will be all good


----------



## gezzanet

Make sure you pull apart and clean the ball valves. I did mine and they had lots of soluble oil in them from manufacturing


----------



## Lethaldog

Yep I did all that, my only concern is the streaky discoloration of the outside, almost looks like the starsan has reacted with it[emoji35] I'll keep cleaning but I may just have to live with it now!


----------



## zwitter

Those ball valves!

Every time you turn them you let the liquid into the "dead zones" and they then grow nasties in them. I chose to replace with a butterfly valve on the bottom and a sample tap on the side. The ball valves are ok to use but clean and lube after every batch!

I clean everything every time any way.

The outside of mine looked a bit dodgy to but the thing performs soo very well I do clean the outside but the looks are not important.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Lethaldog

zwitter said:


> Those ball valves!
> 
> Every time you turn them you let the liquid into the "dead zones" and they then grow nasties in them. I chose to replace with a butterfly valve on the bottom and a sample tap on the side. The ball valves are ok to use but clean and lube after every batch!
> 
> I clean everything every time any way.
> 
> The outside of mine looked a bit dodgy to but the thing performs soo very well I do clean the outside but the looks are not important.
> 
> James
> Zwitter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


yeah I always planned on upgrading to the butterfly valves but they were not in the budget just yet so soon hopefully!

How do you go dry hopping? Do you use a bag or something or just chuck em in to swim free?


----------



## CJW

zwitter said:


> The outside of mine looked a bit dodgy to but the thing performs soo very well I do clean the outside but the looks are not important.


Just get the neoprene jacket and forget about it. Simples!


----------



## Weizguy

Brewnicorn said:


> I love the look of these Chronical numbers. The reasons for them is pretty obvious but I'm tempted by the Mangrove Jacks as an entry-level stainless start.


 I overlooked the Mangrove Jack's item, based on the availability of the larger olive oil drums. (There was a BB at the time. Thanks, Yob).



gezzanet said:


> Looking for a glass door fridge. Got a picture for some ideas. Cheers


If there was meant to be a question mark after the ''ídeas'', I can help out with a catalogue of pics/sizes, if desired... or you find one yourself online. I searched for Quirk's fridges, as that's the brand of mine, fwiw.



Black Devil Dog said:


> Probably not. I remember there was quite a bit of dirty liquid coming off mine when I did my Brewbuckets a couple of years ago. I passivated them 2-3 times just to be sure.


Gee, I hope you cleaned the vessel with Tricleanium/ sugar soap and disassembled the valves and cleansed them thoroughly too. I thought it was specified in the directions (Before Use). There was a bit of muck in my brew bucket and ball valve, as well as my (other branded) SS conical and valves.


----------



## Black Devil Dog

Les the Weizguy said:


> Gee, I hope you cleaned the vessel with Tricleanium/ sugar soap and disassembled the valves and cleansed them thoroughly too. I thought it was specified in the directions (Before Use). There was a bit of muck in my brew bucket and ball valve, as well as my (other branded) SS conical and valves.


Ahh yes, I remembered cleaning and passivating the bejeezus out of them, I forgot about the sugar soap though.


----------



## Brewnicorn

Les the Weizguy said:


> I overlooked the Mangrove Jack's item, based on the availability of the larger olive oil drums. (There was a BB at the time. Thanks, Yob).


Yeah good call. I like the stainless taps on these units too. The conical styles also make good sense, but the price difference is pretty significant for the home brewer.


----------



## gezzanet

Les the Weizguy said:


> If there was meant to be a question mark after the ''ídeas'', I can help out with a catalogue of pics/sizes, if desired... or you find one yourself online. I searched for Quirk's fridges, as that's the brand of mine, fwiw.
> 
> Yep thanks I'll have a search


----------



## kaiserben

Brewnicorn said:


> I'm tempted by the Mangrove Jacks as an entry-level stainless start.


I have one. No complaints. 

I'm thinking about getting another. Mainly due to price, and the fact I'm restricted by what my fridge will fit inside it.


----------



## Mr B

I'm strongly considering a Chronical, and shot an email off today to confirm the dimensions (might be a go/no go with my fridge for the 17 gal - 44.8cm fridge gap and 45.7cm spec diameter, which just might include the extra diameter from the legs.)

But, if I do this, it would mean I most likely wouldnt crash chill in the fermenter, as my fermenting fridge is pretty big and I crash in another one, which it wouldnt fit in to.

I contemplate that I will ferment and decant yeast etc, then transfer to keg (or maybe secondary, but not too keen on the extra contamination risk) and crash in that.

Any thoughts? I reckon I could get a fair bit of yeast drop out in the kegs, though not really sure how much that might be or what effect it might have on the beer. Probably a fair bit and not much......

I could do another step to transfer from keg to keg, but really that would just be too much stuffing around.... probably...

Validation of my thinking or otherwise?


----------



## zwitter

Hi Mr B

I do add hops during the boil and used to just chuck them in but had issues blocking things up. So now I use a small hop bag and put them in that. I use the same kind of bag in kegs to dry hop after ferment as well.

I run a filter in my rig as I also have a plate heat exchanger and dont want to block it or fill with crud. I had major issues to start with as the pressure would just bend the top plate and extrude grain out the top and into the pump. I tried several things and eventually took the fine 1mm screen out of the top and just left a plate with 3 or 4mm holes. But the biggest trick and the solution was to use rice hulls (gulls) about 250g in a batch of 6Kg of grain. I do a lot of brews with wheat that gums up more than barley.

I have the filter in line with the heat exchanger and I run the brew through it at the end of the boil and back into the pot until temp comes down. I use water from our rain water tank to cool it and back into the tank. The last few brews have been a pleasure and getting shorter time wise as well. First brew in the rig took about 13 hours as I fixed lots of issues along the way. Still fermented and drank the beer though.

The filter is an all stainless thing with sanitary fittings both ends and a big sanitary fitting to split it to clean. It has a stainless steel mesh inside as well. It used to just jam up but these days it stays together the whole way and gets cleaned at the end.

I also have a set of scales in my rig so I can zero at the start and monitor the fluid volume from start to finish realtime.

The whole rig is mounted in an old 19" rack so bolting bits on is easy.

I need a mistress, I am sure that would be cheaper and take up less time!!!! Maybe should just give the rig a name?

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Bribie G

Sugar Soaps ain't Sugar Soaps.
Brands such as Selleys took the Trisodium Phosphate out of it years ago to avoid algal blooms in the waterways, whatever. If you want the good stuff, Bunnings sell Tricleanium. I guess the very limited use of it in the real world isn't too harmful as opposed to the old school sugar soap from supermarkets that got splashed around with gay abandon.

Also no need to fill with Starsan solution, just a good spray a few times. The SS only "knows" about the layer of Starsan it's in contact with.
Might repassivate today actually, thanks for reminders. Comp season on the way. woot.


----------



## Bribie G

Mr B said:


> I'm strongly considering a Chronical, and shot an email off today to confirm the dimensions (might be a go/no go with my fridge for the 17 gal - 44.8cm fridge gap and 45.7cm spec diameter, which just might include the extra diameter from the legs.)
> 
> But, if I do this, it would mean I most likely wouldnt crash chill in the fermenter, as my fermenting fridge is pretty big and I crash in another one, which it wouldnt fit in to.
> 
> I contemplate that I will ferment and decant yeast etc, then transfer to keg (or maybe secondary, but not too keen on the extra contamination risk) and crash in that.
> 
> Any thoughts? I reckon I could get a fair bit of yeast drop out in the kegs, though not really sure how much that might be or what effect it might have on the beer. Probably a fair bit and not much......
> 
> I could do another step to transfer from keg to keg, but really that would just be too much stuffing around.... probably...
> 
> Validation of my thinking or otherwise?


Your problem isn't really to do with the Chronical as such. Drawing off the yeast then cold conditioning in the SS would be the best. However your problem (as I had for many years) is basically lack of fridge space.
Eventually I bit the bullet and shelled out for an extra fridge.
Would a Chronical 7 fit into a Keg King Kegmate?
That would be my pick, the series 4 can be dialled to any temp you want. $500 will soon "amortise" itself over a few months of brewing compared to Dans.


----------



## paulyman

Loving my Brew Bucket with FTSS and my two brew bucket minis. I have drilled an extra hole in my kegerator for the FTSS hoses and have a corny keg as my chill water source. Have run two brews through it so far during the current heat wave in NSW and it held Ale temps fine for both brews. Unfortunately this setup means I can't cold crash or lager (at least in summer), but I can live with that for the short term. My old fermentation fridge is now 100% devoted to sours, funky brews and mead.

Longer term I do want to do lagers and cold crash with more than one bucket at a time possibly at different stages of fermentation. So I was wondering what people thought of using the Keg King Icemaster G40 to house the FTSS pumps as a devoted glycol chiller? My thinking is it is designed for rapid chilling so should better handle the job compared to a keg of water in a fridge. The other option is waiting for the ssbrewtech glycol chiller but I imagine it won't compete on price, but may be a far superior product for the task? 

Thoughts.

Edit - Just to clarify before people jump on about just using a ferm fridge. Ultimately I want 4 buckets to and ferment one to two weeks apart so each is at a different stage of fermentation, that will likely require 4 fridges and all the space that will take up, not to mention the plugs required. Or one glycol chiller and 4 buckets stacked 2x2 each with FTSS in a much smaller space. Also bling factor.


----------



## Lethaldog

First brew in and bubbling away nicely in the new shiny !


----------



## Mr B

Thanks all 



zwitter said:


> Hi Mr B
> 
> I do add hops during the boil and used to just chuck them in but had issues blocking things up. So now I use a small hop bag and put them in that. I use the same kind of bag in kegs to dry hop after ferment as well.
> 
> I run a filter in my rig as I also have a plate heat exchanger and dont want to block it or fill with crud. I had major issues to start with as the pressure would just bend the top plate and extrude grain out the top and into the pump. I tried several things and eventually took the fine 1mm screen out of the top and just left a plate with 3 or 4mm holes. But the biggest trick and the solution was to use rice hulls (gulls) about 250g in a batch of 6Kg of grain. I do a lot of brews with wheat that gums up more than barley.
> 
> I have the filter in line with the heat exchanger and I run the brew through it at the end of the boil and back into the pot until temp comes down. I use water from our rain water tank to cool it and back into the tank. The last few brews have been a pleasure and getting shorter time wise as well. First brew in the rig took about 13 hours as I fixed lots of issues along the way. Still fermented and drank the beer though.
> 
> The filter is an all stainless thing with sanitary fittings both ends and a big sanitary fitting to split it to clean. It has a stainless steel mesh inside as well. It used to just jam up but these days it stays together the whole way and gets cleaned at the end.
> 
> I also have a set of scales in my rig so I can zero at the start and monitor the fluid volume from start to finish realtime.
> 
> The whole rig is mounted in an old 19" rack so bolting bits on is easy.
> 
> I need a mistress, I am sure that would be cheaper and take up less time!!!! Maybe should just give the rig a name?
> 
> James
> Zwitter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Oooh thats a thought, I generally no chill and cube hop. Will have to see how that goes and maybe deal with it.



Bribie G said:


> Your problem isn't really to do with the Chronical as such. Drawing off the yeast then cold conditioning in the SS would be the best. However your problem (as I had for many years) is basically lack of fridge space.
> Eventually I bit the bullet and shelled out for an extra fridge.
> Would a Chronical 7 fit into a Keg King Kegmate?
> That would be my pick, the series 4 can be dialled to any temp you want. $500 will soon "amortise" itself over a few months of brewing compared to Dans.


Yeah, I already have a big double door fermenting fridge and a crashing/hops storing fridge/freezer. Too many is never enough. Perhaps a rethink is in order.

I have changed to approx 45l batches, so perhaps the 14 G would do the job, but means I couldnt do the odd triple. And a leeetle bit more gets a lot more space. Gotta think bigger Bribie, the 17 is where its at!



paulyman said:


> Loving my Brew Bucket with FTSS and my two brew bucket minis. I have drilled an extra hole in my kegerator for the FTSS hoses and have a corny keg as my chill water source. Have run two brews through it so far during the current heat wave in NSW and it held Ale temps fine for both brews. Unfortunately this setup means I can't cold crash or lager (at least in summer), but I can live with that for the short term. My old fermentation fridge is now 100% devoted to sours, funky brews and mead.
> 
> Longer term I do want to do lagers and cold crash with more than one bucket at a time possibly at different stages of fermentation. So I was wondering what people thought of using the Keg King Icemaster G40 to house the FTSS pumps as a devoted glycol chiller? My thinking is it is designed for rapid chilling so should better handle the job compared to a keg of water in a fridge. The other option is waiting for the ssbrewtech glycol chiller but I imagine it won't compete on price, but may be a far superior product for the task?
> 
> Thoughts.
> 
> Edit - Just to clarify before people jump on about just using a ferm fridge. Ultimately I want 4 buckets to and ferment one to two weeks apart so each is at a different stage of fermentation, that will likely require 4 fridges and all the space that will take up, not to mention the plugs required. Or one glycol chiller and 4 buckets stacked 2x2 each with FTSS in a much smaller space. Also bling factor.


Perhaps a fridge gives you more flexibility? I assume the glycol doesnt heat in winter? You will be tied to one temp for all buckets as well. I like a dedicated fermenting fridge, then put diff fermentors in other one to crash. Space dependent of course.... Cant knock the bling though.


----------



## paulyman

Mr B said:


> Thanks all
> 
> Perhaps a fridge gives you more flexibility? I assume the glycol doesnt heat in winter?.


The FTSS controls a pump which runs glycol through coils in the fermenter when the temp rises too high then shuts it off once it gets to temp. Since each FTSS is independent each fermenter can be set at a different temperature and theoretically be maintained there all from the same chill source. You can update the controller to also control a heat pad around the cone of the bucket.

So theoretically if the chill source was up to the task (and apparently the ssbrewtech chiller is), you could have one fermenter at Ale temp, one at lager temp, one rising to diaceytl rest then dropping to cold crash and even one long term lagering all from the same small footprint chill source! Also since the buckets stack this could all be housed in the same volume as one fridge!

Since posting it has been brought to my attention on the ssbrewtech users group on FB that maybe the pumps won't fit in the kegking unit, hadn't even thought about that one. I guess I have some homework to do.


----------



## Mr B

paulyman said:


> The FTSS controls a pump which runs glycol through coils in the fermenter when the temp rises too high then shuts it off once it gets to temp. Since each FTSS is independent each fermenter can be set at a different temperature and theoretically be maintained there all from the same chill source. You can update the controller to also control a heat pad around the cone of the bucket.
> 
> So theoretically if the chill source was up to the task (and apparently the ssbrewtech chiller is), you could have one fermenter at Ale temp, one at lager temp, one rising to diaceytl rest then dropping to cold crash and even one long term lagering all from the same small footprint chill source! Also since the buckets stack this could all be housed in the same volume as one fridge!
> 
> Since posting it has been brought to my attention on the ssbrewtech users group on FB that maybe the pumps won't fit in the kegking unit, hadn't even thought about that one. I guess I have some homework to do.



Egad!

Bugger the fridge then!


----------



## CJW

paulyman said:


> Since posting it has been brought to my attention on the ssbrewtech users group on FB that maybe the pumps won't fit in the kegking unit, hadn't even thought about that one. I guess I have some homework to do.


I can confirm the pumps wouldn't fit in the reservoir, but there is another option I think. The is 4 separate immersion coils that are in addition to the glycol circuit. You use this to recirculate via four external pumps through the FV immersion coils and return to a common external reservoir and then switch the pumps as needed. Maybe an external esky with four pumps in it?

Posting from my tablet so sorry if it isn't clear what I mean.


----------



## malt junkie

You do see ex commercial chillers pop up every now and then that are much bigger, I have my doubts the KK one setup as stated above would hold 4 buckets to even ale temps in the current weather(36°c+) over days. I'm sure many are using the backyard shed as their brew house and like me it ain't air conditioned or lined. As for fridges well they're made to meet the conditions we see here and offer their own layer of insulation.

5c


----------



## Lethaldog

Just did my very first yeast dump out of my new shiny, lots of firsts lately, looking forward to tasting the end result!


----------



## gezzanet

Lethaldog said:


> Just did my very first yeast dump out of my new shiny, lots of firsts lately, looking forward to tasting the end result!


when did you do the yeast dump? I just dumped a baby poo prior to cold crash. Slow to come out but then when the yeast plug was done i had to quickly turn it off. Was going to do another after cold crash to see how it goes.


----------



## bullsneck

Best time to yeast dump is just prior to FG in my experience. YMMV.


----------



## Lethaldog

gezzanet said:


> when did you do the yeast dump? I just dumped a baby poo prior to cold crash. Slow to come out but then when the yeast plug was done i had to quickly turn it off. Was going to do another after cold crash to see how it goes.


i have always racked my beers just prior to fg as booker said which used to be obviously transferring from one plastic fermenter to another in my case so I just did the same with the yeast dump after about 5 days! Now I've dry hopped and will probably begin dropping temp tomorrow then dump again just before kegging as I just dropped hop pellets straight in( not sure if that was the greatest idea but I'll see how it goes)


----------



## gezzanet

Yep might have left it a little late. In my old fermenters I used to collect the lot post cold crash and sometimes wash it. I'll collect more post cc and compare the before and after.


----------



## Nugg3t

Hi all,

I'm looking at purchasing a Ss Brewtech Chronical fermenter. Just wanted to get some feedback from you all. My questions are below.

Should I get the 7 or 14 Fermenter - Brewmaster Edition? My brewery is a 20L Braumeister.

Also, I'm looking at purchasing the Ss Brewtech heating and cooling control. How does everyone who owns one control their temperature?
I was thinking of filling a keg of water, and running through the rear outlet of my Kegerator.

Any feedback from you all will be appreciated.

Cheers

Nugg3t


----------



## zwitter

Hi Nugg3t

I bought the Chronical 7. Sometimes thought of getting a 14 but I doubt I could lift the 14 when full. Recently I have thought I would like a 3.5 but they dont do those.

I use a brewpi and an old drinks fridge. The fridge has a glass door and cost about $250 with all the bits for the brewpi and heater etc. I have just bought one of the bluetooth specific gravity things and will combine with the brewpi software so all ends up on same graph which I can see from anywhere on the web. One advantage of fridge is you can put anything in it. With the CTSS it is fixed to the chronical.

I would suggest upgrading the taps on the chronical to butterfly type and go sanitary fittings everywhere.

I love the ease of use of the chronical, cleaning etc it is so much better than plastic.
One of the best things I have ever bought for home brew. 

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## Lethaldog

I bought the 17 gallon but just the standard version not the brewmaster, I've got a fridge that it fits in and I just put it in empty and fill it in there, I've done one batch in it so far and it was great, so easy but as above I'll be upgrading to the butterfly valves shortly so I can use the sight glass to collect/remove trub and yeast etc


----------



## Nugg3t

zwitter said:


> Hi Nugg3t
> 
> I bought the Chronical 7. Sometimes thought of getting a 14 but I doubt I could lift the 14 when full. Recently I have thought I would like a 3.5 but they dont do those.


Hi Zwitter,

Is the Chronicle 7 heavy when full?


----------



## zwitter

Hi Nugg3t

Well the actual Chronical7 is only a couple of kilos but the liquid weighs the same regardless of what it is in. So if I have 26 litres in it it is close to 30kg and a bit awkward but the handles hold up ok. I have temp probes etc hanging off it too.

But twice that would require filling in place or a hoist.

James
Zwitter


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## CJW

zwitter said:


> Hi Nugg3t
> 
> Well the actual Chronical7 is only a couple of kilos but the liquid weighs the same regardless of what it is in. So if I have 26 litres in it it is close to 30kg and a bit awkward but the handles hold up ok. I have temp probes etc hanging off it too.
> 
> But twice that would require filling in place or a hoist.
> 
> James
> Zwitter
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


I don't know that I'd lift from the handles, I usually (only had it a few brews so far) get the missus to help lift it via the legs. Only having three legs means it is awkward to do this on my own.


----------



## Brewnicorn

Hi brewers. I'm pretty well sold on getting the SS Brewtech Brewbucket or Brewmaster Bucket in 26L as my entry stainless vessel. I've looked at the olive oil drums and so on, but as a hobby brewer developing some skills the 'by design' system looks like the one for me. I've been reading through the threads with interest. Different strokes for diff folks, but Can I please ask you all; what are:
1. Options to include,
2. Things to avoid doing? 
3. The Drawbacks
4. Best place to get a bargain (pricing seems pretty universal everywhere).

Many thanks all
Sam


----------



## Black Devil Dog

Brewnicorn said:


> Hi brewers. I'm pretty well sold on getting the SS Brewtech Brewbucket or Brewmaster Bucket in 26L as my entry stainless vessel. I've looked at the olive oil drums and so on, but as a hobby brewer developing some skills the 'by design' system looks like the one for me. I've been reading through the threads with interest. Different strokes for diff folks, but Can I please ask you all; what are:
> 1. Options to include,
> 2. Things to avoid doing?
> 3. The Drawbacks
> 4. Best place to get a bargain (pricing seems pretty universal everywhere).
> 
> Many thanks all
> Sam


I use Brewbuckets, the Brewmaster, I think is the same, just that it comes with a temp probe.

1. I assume you've got a temperature controller and fermentation fridge, if not, you definitely need to.
You'll need a blow off tube and a large container to catch the krausen, I use a 3 litre milk bottle.

2. Even though it comes with a rotatable racking arm, I'd avoid using it as such, the seals don't seem to cope very well and you could get leakages. 

3. Size, 26 litres is a bit on the small side, I believe they have a 35 litre one coming out, but for me the diameter of the big one was an issue.

4. You might save a few bucks on freight if you can pick up from the retailer, but other than that, price is pretty much the same everywhere.
Newera Brewing might be able to do it slightly cheaper.


----------



## Nugg3t

Hi Brewnicorn

The SS Brewtech fermenters are a good bit of kit. I agree with Black Devil Dog, good temp control is the key. I recently got the 14 chronicle with FTS, but I'm still trying to think how I can pump cool liquid through to cool.


----------



## Brewnicorn

Black Devil Dog said:


> I use Brewbuckets, the Brewmaster, I think is the same, just that it comes with a temp probe.


Thanks for the response Black Devil Dog - sorry for diving into the discussion thread. The other threads seemed a bit disused. Sorry to hijack.

Yeah that's the one. I have the temp control sorted to a greater or lesser degree and that's formed part of my thinking here for the new set up. I'm really hoping to ramp things up a bit. 

The tips are great. I'd looked at NewEra and Grain and Grape and a handful of others. Local should t be an issue here in Melbourne. Just didn't want to get blindsided in store and have to sell a kidney to pay for it all. 

Very grateful thank you.


----------



## Brewnicorn

Nugg3t said:


> Hi Brewnicorn
> 
> The SS Brewtech fermenters are a good bit of kit. I agree with Black Devil Dog, good temp control is the key. I recently got the 14 chronicle with FTS, but I'm still trying to think how I can pump cool liquid through to cool.


Thanks Nugg3t. 

Temp control I'm just going to grab an old fridge off gumtree and an stc- failing that shell out for the keg master fridge from keg king if the brew buckets fit. I'm yet to check that, but the bigger fridge could still be a favoured option. [emoji52]


----------



## nosco

I've only brewed 2 batches with my brew bucket but I'm very happy with it so far. I just have the 27 lt one. More accurate volume markings on the inside would be nice but no big deal. The brewmaster version didn't seem worth the price for a thermo well and a thermometer that I wouldn't use. 

Having said that the only pain I have with it is trying to tape a temp probe to stainless fermenter covered in condensation is a real pain. Once the temp equalises it's ok though. So as Tidal Pete said at the start of the thread I'm looking at putting a well through the lid. I have a bit of beer dip tube I can use.

For the price you pay for it I think the valve is pretty shit but I've taken it apart as much as you can (removing the ball) and then boiled it for 10 minutes so it shouldn't be a problem.

Re using the yeast is the same as any regular plastic fermenter but the cone shape really work wonders for compacting the yeast cake and clearing the beer especially after chilling for a few days.

So if you are going to get a cheap fridge off the net then get a decent size one. You can't chill @ 0 deg for a few days with a bar fridge. A good size fridge gives many options. I'd go a good fridge before a brew bucket. If you have the room.

Edit: condensation wouldn't be a problem if you only brew ales.


----------



## Brewnicorn

Thanks nosco. I reckon the thermowell will be less of an issue in a decent fridge with the stc attached, but I know as I get pickier that kind of thing becomes important. 
An elastic jockey strap might do the job to hold your thermometer in place - you might have to electrical tape a flat spot in to hold it but just a thought? I've been using a cube of polystyrene foam with a little well in it that sits flat on the side of the (plastic) fermenter and exposes a thermo probe just to the fermenter wall and nothing outside. Good pick up on the thermometer though. Not sure that justifies the $50-60 price hike jump. 
Still... the plastic fermenters are starting to smell like an old bar runner, especially with some hot water and perc in them...


----------



## Brewnicorn

Black Devil Dog said:


> 3. Size, 26 litres is a bit on the small side, I believe they have a 35 litre one coming out, but for me the diameter of the big one was an issue.


Can I ask a follow up. I've seen the guys on here talking about larger fermenters. And frankly I need to drink more to make that viable. Not a dilemma so much as a lack of days in the week.  
Why do some folks go so large? Is it to keg a lot more beer, less actual brews for the return? (How long can beer even keep in a keg?) I'm doing the 21-23 partial grains and so on at the moment. AG eventually...


----------



## Black Devil Dog

For me, wanting a slightly larger fermenter was to have more head space.

Some brewers like to ferment double batches, so they'd need a fermenter capable of holding that volume.


----------



## Dan Pratt

get yourself a 100mm stainless thermowell and a step drill from Bunning's ($25) and add that to your SS brewbucket like this:









And you may need to upgrade the orings for the thermowell, I use black 3mm ones which compress much better when assembling to the FV


----------



## nosco

I was thinking of going through the lid because the lid is replaceable. Getting the probe in a long thermowell might be tricky though. Im putting one through the side of my kegmenter so ill see how that goes.


----------



## WarmerBeer

I've recently gotten a 52 lt Chronical.

Has anybody found a place that sells the following:
- 1" NPT to Barb fitting
- 3/4" - 1" ID Silicone Hose

I'm looking to put these onto the output of my dump valve, but don't want to constrict flow by using the smaller 1" to 1/2" reducer I have.


----------



## Lethaldog

WarmerBeer said:


> I've recently gotten a 52 lt Chronical.
> 
> Has anybody found a place that sells the following:
> - 1" NPT to Barb fitting
> - 3/4" - 1" ID Silicone Hose
> 
> I'm looking to put these onto the output of my dump valve, but don't want to constrict flow by using the smaller 1" to 1/2" reducer I have.


Craftbrewer have most of the stuff you will need!


----------



## nosco

I just saw this on FB. A belgian quad bent the lid. Maybe there is something to be said for extra head space


----------



## Brewnicorn

nosco said:


> I just saw this on FB. A belgian quad bent the lid. Maybe there is something to be said for extra head space [emoji16]


Holy ****! Wow I would not have tipped that to happen. Thought the tap seals would be first.


----------



## nosco

1 in a million id say. Its reasonably thick ss.
Im not sure how the blow off tube didnt go though. I should have read the whole post.


----------



## Brewnicorn

The tube looks to have liquid in it at the lids base in that image? Could be wrong. The side of the fridge may have been damaged already but it *looks* like it exploded. Gnarly outcome all the same.


----------



## Black Devil Dog

It would take a bit to bend those lids, maybe they froze the brew and there was no else where for the expansion to go.


----------



## nosco

It seems either the blow off got blocked or using an airlock to fit the blow off tube made the hole to small. Peolpe suggesyed 1/2" silicone hose, which fits perfectly or a 90° adapter. I might try the silicone hose next brew. Sounds like an easy cleanup.


----------



## zwitter

Hi Brewnicorn

As said before I have chronical 7 but the taps are similar. The ball valves should be stripped and cleaned after every brew!

I went the chronical because of the sanitary fittings and never used the ball valves, upgraded to butterflys.

I use a brewpi to control the fridge for ferment and it was surprisingly cheap. The chronical came with a thermowell and i just fitted the temp probe into that and it works a treat. Fridge is easier than the FTS and can also be a kegerator or a fridge!

I use blow off tube and have had lots of yeasty mess come out and never bent the lid.

I just reduced the size of my brews to increse headspace.
I would actually like a smaller one.

Zwitter
James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Black Devil Dog

Silicon tube directly into the hole in the lid, works a treat.

I find it hard to believe the cause of the lid bending like that would be because of the hole size being reduced.

It would take some real force. Maybe the tube got blocked.

Whatever the cause, that is a very impressive **** up. :lol:


----------



## kaiserben

What size tubing do I need to transfer beer out of the tap? 

(I attempted to use my usual transfer tubing (which is set up to fit plastic taps) and it was obviously too big and oxygen was getting sucked in despite a clamp keeping the tubing attached to the tap).


----------



## Black Devil Dog

I use this stuff from Craftbrewer. Butterfly clamp it around the tap.


----------



## nosco

8 x 5 mm nylon hose from bunnings is a nice snug fit.

You are talking about the Brew Bucket?


----------



## kaiserben

Yep - Brew Bucket. Cheers!


----------



## quadbox

CJW said:


> I can confirm the pumps wouldn't fit in the reservoir, but there is another option I think. The is 4 separate immersion coils that are in addition to the glycol circuit. You use this to recirculate via four external pumps through the FV immersion coils and return to a common external reservoir and then switch the pumps as needed. Maybe an external esky with four pumps in it?
> 
> Posting from my tablet so sorry if it isn't clear what I mean.



I dont suppose you know if it's possible to either a) remove the product lines to make room for the pumps, or alternatively b) unscrew the service panel the pump/impeller is attached to, stick the pumps down the hole and route the power cables back up the outside of the product coils? It looks from photos that the latter should be possible, but it'd be nice to have confirmation... 

My thinking was I'd add some hose-barbs to the service lid, same way as SS appear to do it for their own unit (so, a length of hose running to each pump outlet from one set, and some short hose from the others for return)


----------



## quadbox

They just sent out an email announcing they're doing half-barrel and 14gallon versions of the unitank from later this year, exact same specs as the 1BBL unitank. Timing is epic, since she who must be obeyed just approved the purchase of a half-barrel BME and a glycol system of some description ~ january next year . Fair sure I can upgrade that to the unitank


----------



## fdsaasdf

quadbox said:


> They just sent out an email announcing they're doing half-barrel and 14gallon versions of the unitank from later this year, exact same specs as the 1BBL unitank. Timing is epic, since she who must be obeyed just approved the purchase of a half-barrel BME and a glycol system of some description ~ january next year . Fair sure I can upgrade that to the unitank


Thanks for the heads-up. If some dreams/stars align in the next year I'd be pretty keen on a 1/2BBL unitank.


----------



## razz

quadbox said:


> They just sent out an email announcing they're doing half-barrel and 14gallon versions of the unitank from later this year, exact same specs as the 1BBL unitank. Timing is epic, since she who must be obeyed just approved the purchase of a half-barrel BME and a glycol system of some description ~ january next year . Fair sure I can upgrade that to the unitank


Does she have a sister?


----------



## SolitaryBee

Re: 6 gal Brewbucket. I have some trouble with the racking arm.

When I rotate the racking arm counter-clockwise, the thread loosens off the nut inside and detaches the outlet barb from the arm inside. If I really screw that nut down tight, I warp the o-ring so much that it doesn't seal and the BB leaks wort. 

Any ideas on how to solve?


----------



## hopnotic

I had this problem originally. It helps if you put some food grade lube around the o-rings. Tighten by hand when it's empty then it should spin freely without grabbing on the stainless wall.


----------



## krz

I have a SS Unitank. The sampling tap got quite tight the other day, so during preparation for next brew, I dissembled it (never done before), then cleaned it.
There's was a lot of gunk in there. (> 10 brews)

After pressure testing using soapy water technique, I found that the tap was leaking using.
Did some web research and found that because there are no o-rings in the tap, you need to lube the tap, I used food grade silicone lube.
Doesn't leak anymore.


----------



## krz

Used these fuel line quick disconnects for my fermenters cooling immersion coil.
Valves on both ends. https://www.thirdgear.com.au/fuel-line-fast-connector/


----------



## stux

Anymore feedback on the Unitanks?

Finally got the go ahead for a 64lt conical, and am seriously thinking about the 1/2bbl uni. Looking forward to carbing triple batches in situ 

But how do you clean them? I’d get a CIP setup eventually... but what about at first?


----------



## RobW

Well there's your problem  but experience indicates that if you sanitise the hose there don't seem to be any problems.
On reflection you could fill the upper tube with sanitiser before attaching the trap and then let it drain back in but it's hardly worth the effort IMO.
Or fit an inline filter?


----------



## razz

stux said:


> Anymore feedback on the Unitanks?
> 
> Finally got the go ahead for a 64lt conical, and am seriously thinking about the 1/2bbl uni. Looking forward to carbing triple batches in situ
> 
> But how do you clean them? I’d get a CIP setup eventually... but what about at first?


Hi stux. For the first clean I used the recommended TSP to get rid of any residual oils. Tricleanium is the product I used. After brewing you can either use a bit of elbow grease to clean them out, I used PBW and a sponge. Now I use a spray ball connected to a March pump and run hot PBW through for about 20 minutes. The spray balls are a bit of a gimmick as I think they are used in commercial setups to save time and elbow grease but for home brewers they are just another tool in the kit. I use the 64lt unitank and I can reach into that quite easily, I don't know about the 1/2 barrel I'm assuming it maybe a bit deeper.


----------



## stux

razz said:


> Hi stux. For the first clean I used the recommended TSP to get rid of any residual oils. Tricleanium is the product I used. After brewing you can either use a bit of elbow grease to clean them out, I used PBW and a sponge. Now I use a spray ball connected to a March pump and run hot PBW through for about 20 minutes. The spray balls are a bit of a gimmick as I think they are used in commercial setups to save time and elbow grease but for home brewers they are just another tool in the kit. I use the 64lt unitank and I can reach into that quite easily, I don't know about the 1/2 barrel I'm assuming it maybe a bit deeper.



Thanks Razz,

17gal unit is the 64L unit is the half bbl unit


----------



## hopnotic

For those with chronicals or uni tanks, when dumping trub and yeast have you ever had a problem with the wort blowing a hole in the sediment and coming through the bottom outlet before all of the trub/yeast has been dumped?


----------



## hopnotic

stux said:


> Thanks Razz,
> 
> 17gal unit is the 64L unit is the half bbl unit


I think 17gal equates to 64L whereas half bbl is 80L.


----------



## stux

hopnotic said:


> I think 17gal equates to 64L whereas half bbl is 80L.



Referring to this one
https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/all-unitanks/products/half-bbl-unitank

Which I suspect has been rebranded from “17” in the US

https://www.newerabrewing.com.au/ss-brewtech-uni-tank-17/


----------



## Truman42

hopnotic said:


> For those with chronicals or uni tanks, when dumping trub and yeast have you ever had a problem with the wort blowing a hole in the sediment and coming through the bottom outlet before all of the trub/yeast has been dumped?


YES. Especially if Im dumping out trub before pitching yeast or I havent cold crashed. So now I dont bother dumping before Ive CC'd.

But if Ive cold crashed for a few days I get a nice thick yeast sludge come out first and then as the wort starts to flow I shut the valve. i brought a butterfly valve from keg King.


----------



## hopnotic

So it sounds like a uni tank is pointless given you can't reliably drop the yeast until fermentation has fully completed (cold crashed) meaning your brew sits on the yeast cake for the duration - off flavours are likely.


----------



## Meddo

You certainly can dump trub or yeast, you just need a flow control dump valve rather than a butterfly. Try a diaphragm or ball (sanitary issues unless encapsulated) valve instead to slow things down.


----------



## hopnotic

stux said:


> Referring to this one
> https://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/all-unitanks/products/half-bbl-unitank
> 
> Which I suspect has been rebranded from “17” in the US
> 
> https://www.newerabrewing.com.au/ss-brewtech-uni-tank-17/



Half barrel and 17 gal unitank are different items with different capacities. Listed separately on brewtech's website.


----------



## stux

hopnotic said:


> Half barrel and 17 gal unitank are different items with different capacities. Listed separately on brewtech's website.



I really don't think so, but happy to have my misconception debunked





Also, https://ssbrewtech.zendesk.com/hc/e...1-2bbl-tank-Aren-t-they-almost-the-same-size-



_The 7gal and 14gal unitanks and chronicals are named after the max volume you can fit in the vessel, not the appropriate batch size. These are designed for 5.5gal and 11gal batch/brew size respectively with about 20% headspace included. 

The 1/2bbl and 1bbl+ tanks are NOT named after max volume you can fit in the tanks, but ARE named for the batch size. The half bbl tanks are about 17gallons in total volume and the 1bbl tanks are closer to 42 gallons in volume instead of 15.5gal and 31.5gal. 
_
If the 1/2 BBL was named after its approx max volume like the 7 and 14, it'd probably be called a 17, which is what they originally called it before release, as far as I can tell from my internet searches

And on New Era's website they *do* refer to it as the 17, but as far as I can tell, it *is* the 1/2 BBL as per SSB's website


----------



## hopnotic

Good pickup stux. That's really confusing.

So in terms of batch size, how much finished beer can we produce from the 17 gal / half barrel unitank? Give or take a few litres for different trub levels, etc.

I'm trying to figure out how many 375mL cans I can produce, as a number of friends sell beer and wine through their businesses.


----------



## stux

hopnotic said:


> Good pickup stux. That's really confusing.
> 
> So in terms of batch size, how much finished beer can we produce from the 17 gal / half barrel unitank? Give or take a few litres for different trub levels, etc.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how many 375mL cans I can produce, as a number of friends sell beer and wine through their businesses.



3 corny kegs. Or as the yanks call that, a triple batch, since everything they do is in units of 5Gal. Same as what I can get out of my 60L (closer to 64L total capacity) plastic fermenters... if I fill them close to the top... and have a massive blow-off system 

3 corny kegs is 15 US Gal precisely, aka about 19L each, so 57L finished beer.

Reason I originally got excited for a Chronical 17 a few years ago when they were first announced , the 14 was too small to do 3 kegs.

And 1/2 BBL is 59.62L


----------



## Truman42

Meddo said:


> You certainly can dump trub or yeast, you just need a flow control dump valve rather than a butterfly. Try a diaphragm or ball (sanitary issues unless encapsulated) valve instead to allow things down.


My past experience was with a ball valve as I have only just brought a butterfly valve. You can transfer wort and dump cold break/trub etc an hour later but the OP asked if you lose wort. Yes you do, but YMMV.

You can dump yeast once fermentation is finished but you will also lose some wort even when using a ball valve. Ive found that the best way to dump just yeast is to cold crash. Then I get a nice thick yeast sludge come out first. Other than that im getting a mixture of wort, but with practice you can minimise the amount you lose.


----------



## Meddo

Yeah, @hopnotic posited that: "a uni tank is pointless given you can't reliably drop the yeast until fermentation has fully completed (cold crashed) meaning your brew sits on the yeast cake for the duration - off flavours are likely."

I disagree with that, using a flow control valve you can certainly slow the yeast dumping enough that it doesn't "blowing a hole in the sediment". It may take multiple dump stages - you'll never get it all completely in one step before it does break through - but it can certainly be done for the flocced yeast before CC if required without losing too much beer/wort. I allow an extra half litre or so in my batch size to negate this issue regardless of timing. I use a diaphragm valve BTW.

Dumping cold break prior to pitching is a different issue given how fluffy it is.


----------



## razz

stux said:


> Thanks Razz,
> 
> 17gal unit is the 64L unit is the half bbl unit



I’m a dick, mine is the 14G.


----------



## stux

razz said:


> I’m a dick, mine is the 14G.





Does anyone have the 17G/64L/ 1/2bbl unitank and care to comment on cleaning? About the same as the 14?

Meanwhile, was checking up on Triclovers,

https://www.brewershardware.com/how_to_use_tri_clover_fittings.html
_Each connection requires a clamp and gasket. Tri Clover Compatible gaskets are available in a wide variety of materials but the most useful ones to us as home brewers are Silicone, PTFE Teflon® and BUNA-N. Silicone offers great heat resistance and is soft so it forms a seal very easily. Silicone sanitary gaskets are my favorite for almost any connection. *Teflon®* is more rigid than BUNA-N and requires a little more clamping pressure to get a good seal. It also has a high heat resistance, and *it's definitely the material of choice if the connection is a rotation point like in a fermentor racking arm or rotating pickup tube.*_

I think the normal gasket on the racking arm is silicon. Seems to me it’d be a good upgrade to get a PTFE/Teflon gasket for that. 

Brewers Hardware is great btw, used them for lots of my hot side in the past.


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## Truman42

So Ive just finished brewing a lager and its currently sitting at 18C. I opened the dump valve quickly for a 1 second burst and closed it again and a lot of yeast came out. I did it a second time and some more yeast but a bit of wort came out. Did it a 3rd time and it was 90% wort so left it at that. 
I will try it again once Ive cold crashed for 48 hours. So your always going to lose some wort but if you allow for it in your recipe volumes its not an issue.


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## razz

To be honest stux, i don't even rotate the racking arm on the SS. I install it sitting just above horizontal and leave it that way. I don't do any yeast collection either, I just dump trub and then yeast from the bottom valve and then chill the whole thing down and rack the beer off when it's about 4-5 degrees. I did have a hard gasket in a previous conical (ptfe maybe) I always put silicon grease on it when I installed it so I could rotate it easily.


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## camNZ

Truman42 said:


> My past experience was with a ball valve as I have only just brought a butterfly valve. You can transfer wort and dump cold break/trub etc an hour later but the OP asked if you lose wort. Yes you do, but YMMV.
> 
> You can dump yeast once fermentation is finished but you will also lose some wort even when using a ball valve. Ive found that the best way to dump just yeast is to cold crash. Then I get a nice thick yeast sludge come out first. Other than that im getting a mixture of wort, but with practice you can minimise the amount you lose.



First brew in SS Brewtech 1/2BBL Unitank, ESB using Wyeast 1084 been 1.5 weeks at 20ºC no CC, no major issues with dumping trub through 1.5" TC B/V. Got about 500ml of soft serve consistency trub oozed out, shut off B/V as soon as wort broke through but it did make abit of a mess. Would of been good to get a video, but needed 3 hands just to dump the trub. Going to setup B/V directly to bottom of unitank with a capped sightglass under that to make this easier, fill unitank with B/V open, when sightglass is full of trub close B/V and empty sightglass. Purge sightglass with CO2, reconnect and open B/V to harvest yeast cake. This is the part I'm not sure about, the bubble of air/CO2 up into the tank. This would be a better solution https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-1.5-Inch-x-3-Inch-Yeast-Brink.html

View media item 10955
Has anyone had issues with the carb stone blocking as it's left in the wort for the whole fermentation before being used?


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## razz

Hey CamNZ. Nice job on the first brew. Did you allow the beer to carb up towards the end of fermentation? Or are you planning to use the carb stone, hence your question? I haven't used the carb stone, when I first set up the unitank I left the carb stone out and added a blank plate to the TC fitting. I pressurise the fermenter after 2-3 days of primary and then when I'm ready to push the beer into kegs I hook a gas line into the blow off fitting.


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## camNZ

razz said:


> Hey CamNZ. Nice job on the first brew. Did you allow the beer to carb up towards the end of fermentation? Or are you planning to use the carb stone, hence your question? I haven't used the carb stone, when I first set up the unitank I left the carb stone out and added a blank plate to the TC fitting. I pressurise the fermenter after 2-3 days of primary and then when I'm ready to push the beer into kegs I hook a gas line into the blow off fitting.



Thanks, but it's not quite finished, stuck at 1.020 right now. 

Was planning on carbing in uni with gas, hence the question. So you pressure ferment after 2-3 days and allow to naturally carb? Using a spunding valve to set the pressure?


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## razz

camNZ said:


> Thanks, but it's not quite finished, stuck at 1.020 right now.
> 
> Was planning on carbing in uni with gas, hence the question. So you pressure ferment after 2-3 days and allow to naturally carb? Using a spunding valve to set the pressure?



I use a blowtie valve and go by the reading on the pressure gauge. Usually sits around 100 kpa.


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## camNZ

On to the second brew in the ss unitank. Tried a different setup for trub and yeast harvesting with a 1.5" TC sightglass. Good for trub dumping but gave up trying to collect all the yeast with it. Ended up just cracking the valve direct into a mason jar, this worked really well!

Question for you guys about naturally carbing; How do you get the carb levels you want? I know i can set the spunding valve to the desired pressure for the volumes of CO2. But at fermenting temps i.e. 18degC the pressure required is higher than the PSV i.e. 26psi and close to the design pressure of the vessel. Are you only part naturally carbing then force carbing after cold crash?


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## razz

I usually don’t worry about accurate carb levels Cam. My current batch is 9 days in the fermenter and sitting at 80kpa and 13 degrees. It was at FG about 3-4 days ago. I do know that the pressure won’t drop much between now and getting the beer down to 3-4 degrees for kegging. After a week in the kezeer the carb level is sitting around 60kpa (which is the permanent setting on my reg) Any slight discrepancy after that corrects itself when I try a schooner or two!


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## camNZ

What's everyone do with dry hopping whole cone hops? Hop bag keeps blocking the racking arm outlet and there's no where internally to tie the bag to.

P.S. I replaced the cooling coil lid with a 6" to 3" plain tri clover adapter as the hop bag just got stuck in the coil.


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## fdsaasdf

camNZ said:


> What's everyone do with dry hopping whole cone hops? Hop bag keeps blocking the racking arm outlet and there's no where internally to tie the bag to.
> 
> P.S. I replaced the cooling coil lid with a 6" to 3" plain tri clover adapter as the hop bag just got stuck in the coil.


I would have suggested you hang it off the cooling coil  I rarely use cones because they're expensive, take up so much room when they expand in the tank and make racking a real PITA.


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## camNZ

fdsaasdf said:


> I would have suggested you hang it off the cooling coil  I rarely use cones because they're expensive, take up so much room when they expand in the tank and make racking a real PITA.


@fdsaasdf I'm with you on that, but friends grow them tho. I've asked them if the can pelletise them for me, but for some reason they don't seem to want to do that for me when I complain about their free hops?????


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## fdsaasdf

camNZ said:


> @fdsaasdf I'm with you on that, but friends grow them tho. I've asked them if the can pelletise them for me, but for some reason they don't seem to want to do that for me when I complain about their free hops?????


yeah, well, not a bad problem to have... I also grow them but keep them out of the conical! 

I'd probably use a paint strainer bag and hang it on fishing line tied off to the inside of the blow-off valve


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