# Stc 1000 Dual Temperature Controller



## dalpets

Hi all,

I have the above controller in hand but after numerous enquiries to electrical & refrigeration trades people none are prepared to install it in my fermentation fridge. Two of which even turned up & walked away from the job saying they do not do that sort of stuff. I'm in Adelaide, SA.

So I'm sort of left in the lurch unless I can get some help from this forum to wire it myself.

I'm reasonably handy and appreciate that I need to exercise reasonable care when working with power but I would like some step by step instructions, if possible, to wire the unit into my fermentation fridge. I realize, of course the usual liability disclaimer that would necessarily come with such advice. So, if you can help me please do & it will be appreciated particularly after being messed around by the trades for weeks on end.

A couple of specific issues that I would like advice on are as follows.

* Is this controller compatible with most compressors & specifically my early model Fisher & Paykel fridge which has compressor specs of 1HP & 0.71 amps?.

* Does the wiring to the existing thermostat need to be disabled & reconnected to the cooling output of the controller. I don't know what the wiring looks like in there & I anticipate I would need some help on that score. The heater side seems straight forward enough except for the polarity issue mentioned below.

* It appears that the sensor has to be connected to outputs 3 & 4 in the correct way. How do I know which way to connect it? (NTC sensor 304 SS 200mm x9mm)

* outputs 5/6 (heating) & 7/8 (cooling) appear to need to be connected with correct polarity. Which is the correct way?


I would be really stoked if I could get some help on this.

Thanks
dalpets


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## keifer33

Might be worth while having a read through this section of a previous thread. It give you an idea of what you will end up with in the end.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...mp;#entry616337

Im currently working through wiring mine up using a similar setup and cant see too many dramas. Just respect the 240v, if you get it done by a sparky it may help you sleep easier at night.


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## michael_aussie

dalpets said:


> I have the above controller in hand but after numerous enquiries to electrical & refrigeration trades people none are prepared to install it in my fermentation fridge. Two of which even turned up & walked away from the job saying they do not do that sort of stuff. I'm in Adelaide, SA.


Some tradesmen don't like to work outside the square. I'm sure if you persisted you would find someone. Maybe a TV repair guy or similiar. Maybe you should take the wiring diagram that comes with the unit to someone like that.



dalpets said:


> * Is this controller compatible with most compressors & specifically my early model Fisher & Paykel fridge which has compressor specs of 1HP & 0.71 amps?.


The outputs are good for 10A from memory, so your fridge will be fine for this controller.



dalpets said:


> * Does the wiring to the existing thermostat need to be disabled & reconnected to the cooling output of the controller. I don't know what the wiring looks like in there & I anticipate I would need some help on that score.


If the fridge is running normally now, then don't touch the fridge wiring at all. The fridge will plug into your "cooling" outlet on the controller.



dalpets said:


> The heater side seems straight forward enough except for the polarity issue mentioned below.
> .......
> * outputs 5/6 (heating) & 7/8 (cooling) appear to need to be connected with correct polarity. Which is the correct way?


There are no polarity issues as far as coming "in" on one terminal and "out" on the other. However, it is good practice to switch the active lines rather than the neutrals. A smart sparkie should know this.



dalpets said:


> * It appears that the sensor has to be connected to outputs 3 & 4 in the correct way. How do I know which way to connect it? (NTC sensor 304 SS 200mm x9mm)


The sensor doesn't have a particular polarity either.


Good luck, but I advise you, look further for a tradesman rather than doing yourself. This isn't like home plumbing, where the worst that can happen is a leaking tap. This little unit can kill you, your family or your friends if you get the smallest thing wrong.


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## dalpets

> If the fridge is running normally now, then don't touch the fridge wiring at all. The fridge will plug into your "cooling" outlet on the controller.



I'm having trouble getting my head around this comment.

If you install & connect an external temperature controller to a fermenter refrigerator why does the pre existing thermostat & its circuitry not have to be disabled. Aren't they working against each other?.

Moreover, if it IS left connected does it have to be set to maximum/minimum cooling or neither.

Could someone please enlighten me on this?

Thanks


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## tavas

You do not need to disconnect the fridge's existing circuitry. Simply put the fridge thermostat at max cold, plug it into the external controller and the controller will regulate temperature.


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## felten

The fridgemate/stc thermostat regulates the electricity to the fridge. So when the fridgemate reaches it's desired temp, it turns the power off to the fridge completely, and then it enables the power again when it wants the fridge to turn on.

If you disabled the thermostat in the fridge it might not want to run at all.


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## DanRayner

The fridge won't be working at odds with your controller, at the temperatures you set for fermentation your fridge will want to run all the time (it's own thermostat will never kick in and switch off).

It won't matter whether your fridge is set to minimum or maximum, at the temperatures you set for fermentation your fridge will want to be running all the time (ie: even the fridge's warmest setting will be cooler than whatever you set for fermentation)


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## QldKev

I think the other responses should have clarified it for you, but I'll word it another way

The thermostat in the fridge is set to something like 2 or 4 degrees. 

The STC-1000 is put inline with the power cord to feed the fridge. This will switch off the power to the fridge when it hits your setting, eg 18 degreees. The same as if you walked up to the fridge and switched off the power point to the fridge. And then it will switch back on at the preset temperature eg 19. Same as if you manually switched back on the power point. 

QldKev


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## dalpets

Thanks guys, thus far you have been very helpful in setting me straight.

I have another issue that is causing me some concern & hopefully you can allay that concern, specifically with regard to the STC-1000 (Brewmate dual controller). Perhaps this concern & my question is one that only someone qualified in refrigeration & electronics can answer with surety.

It has been put to me outside this forum (non expert) that it is very possible that this 10 amp controller is not up to specs when it comes to handling the inrush current on my compressor startup. It has been mooted that the controller should be at least a 30 amp rating for this inrush current.

I will be using the controller for fermentation (auto heating & cooling).

The compressor specs of my Fisher & Paykel fridge (model D116LRAA) is 1hp with a load of 0.71amps. There is also a sticker under the door that shows "1.1amps, class4" I'm not sure if the last menioned has any bearing.

I would really like to be confident that mating the aforementioned equipment together is within acceptable parameters & is thus not going to result in a major untoward event.

Thanks again


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## michael_aussie

dalpets said:


> It has been put to me outside this forum (non expert) that it is very possible that this 10 amp controller is not up to specs when it comes to handling the inrush current on my compressor startup. It has been mooted that the controller should be at least a 30 amp rating for this inrush current.


I haven't used mine yet to control a fridge, but many many people here do.
I have never seen anyone complaining.


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## Florian

It's always good to be on the cautious side, especially when electricity is involved, but the fact that almost every serious brewer uses one or the other temp control device - some of them for years - and without any issues whatsoever, plus the fact that some of these devices (fridgemate, tempmate etc.) are solely produced for this purpose, should hopefully be enough to put your mind at ease.

Florian


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## peaky

dalpets said:


> It has been put to me outside this forum (non expert) that it is very possible that this 10 amp controller is not up to specs when it comes to handling the inrush current on my compressor startup. It has been mooted that the controller should be at least a 30 amp rating for this inrush current.



I have 2 STC-1000 control units running 2 fridges in my garage, the cool side has the fridge plugged in and the heat side has a submersible heater (in my fermenting wort) plugged into it. 

The breakers on the main circuit board in the garage are 16 amp (yours are probably 16 amp too) and I've never had one of them trip. I think that if you needed a 30 amp rating on the unit because of the current drawn by the fridge compressor on start up you would probably be tripping the 16 amp circuit breaker.

I don't think you'd have to much of a problem with the units over-heating, catching fire or anything, the circuit breaker should trip first if anything were to go wrong, probably more chance of electrocuting yourself while wiring it up wrong. I'm not a sparky and I double and triple checked the wiring before plugging in and switching on. I haven't had any issues.


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## dalpets

Thanks peakydh.

Obviously one can't be too careful when dealing with electricity. In any event I will have a qualified electronics guy check my wiring before I attempt to fire it up.

I'm probably reading too much into this, but other than the tripping of the house circuit board scenario what happens if the current compressor startup load is greater than the 10 amps rating of the solid state relay but less than the tripping current. Are the relay(s) liable to melt and/or catch fire?.

It's encouraging to know that your setup works without a hiccup but there again I don't know what your compressor specs are.


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## Brewindo

dalpets said:


> Thanks peakydh.
> 
> Obviously one can't be too careful when dealing with electricity. In any event I will have a qualified electronics guy check my wiring before I attempt to fire it up.
> 
> I'm probably reading too much into this, but other than the tripping of the house circuit board scenario what happens if the current compressor startup load is greater than the 10 amps rating of the solid state relay but less than the tripping current. Are the relay(s) liable to melt and/or catch fire?.
> 
> It's encouraging to know that your setup works without a hiccup but there again I don't know what your compressor specs are.



If your fridge has information stating 1.1 amps, I really don't think it will melt a 10 amp relay.

The concern you mentioned earlier is that when the compressor initially starts the motor will draw extra current until it gets up to speed. A few seconds at the most. I don't think it will draw higher than 10 amps even then. However, with all of that said, the 10 amps rating on the relay is a constant draw rating, not a peak spike rating. In other words, you should be able to put 10 amps continuasly through the relay switching contacts. 

I think that the units rating is the least of your concerns. Please make sure you have somebody check your wiring if you do this yourself.

I have something similar to this controller that I wired myself for my fermentation (chest freezer). I have some electrical background and completely understood what I was doing and why the wiring should be a certain way. Sometimes it is better to have a complete understanding of what you are doing, rather than just follow instructions from DIYers on a forum (even though there is great advice on here, on less risky subjects). Please take care, as other have said electricity is fatal. Your life and others around you is not worth saving $100 bucks on a qualified sparkie.

Cheers mate... :beer:


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## dalpets

Thanks everybody for your help & advice. As I have said previously I will have a qualified electronics guy I know check my wiring before I attempt to fire it up.

cheers
dalpets


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## dalpets

I found the below link which says that the wiring shown for the STC1000 was done in the presence of a qualified electrician, but it clearly indicates that it is subject to a safety disclaimer & the safety recommendations therein. 

It may be of value to others in this forum but be aware that it is would be very wise to have a qualified electrician check any DIY wiring before connecting it to a live circuit. A miswiring could cost you or others their life and we don't want that to happen.

http://urowiki.filecore.net/index.php/Ther...ital_thermostat


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## forbestp

thought i'd post my experience here as when i got mine in the mail was really confused with their crap wiring diagram. I have just finished wiring and boxing mine up with my sparky mate and tested it for both heating and cooling and it works. i would recommend getting an electrician to do it for you so you are 100% legal and safe.

this is what the finished product looks like -> 
front - http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/...in/photostream/
back - http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/...in/photostream/

some progress pics:
just before box up - http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/...in/photostream/
without box - http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/6741424473/

i basically followed this wiring diagram (thanks!) -> http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&id=37080
it is pretty much the same as this one (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/213/stc1000wiringv2.png/sr=1, http://media.photobucket.com/image/stc%201...10/stc1000.png), with the exception that the brown wire from the female connections from the fridge and heater go to the left connection point instead of the right. i don't think this makes a difference though as it is AC 

here is my printed out coloured in copy so I can interpret a little more clearly (can't read the tiny writing with my dodgy eyes) -> 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/...in/photostream/

to cut the square hole i drilled a whole pile of small holes then filed it out. certainly not the most efficient way but worked okay. i only had small files but would have some larger ones on hand if i did it again.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/6741421195/

to cut the round holes i just used a hole saw which was pretty straight forward

i used cable ties on the inside of the box around cords etc to try and hol them in place which i didn't do a really good job of so it still feels a little home made when plugging and unplugging devices.

when i screwed on the lid to the project box i used a power drill which was a big mistake - 2 of the screws went straight through so i had to superglue 2 corners down. doh!

equipment used:
stc 1000 from ebay - ~$20
extension cord - $7
female power plug from bunnings ~$5
wire stripper borrowed from mate but cost ~$9 from bunnings
already had a power drill and drill bits
set of small files from bunnings ~$9
hole saw set of 6 pieces + drill bit attachment ~$30
project box from jaycar -~$10
no1 size phillips and flathead screwdrivers which i already had

fyi - copy of instructions for stc 1000 - http://www.rise.com.hk/ebayproducts/manual...roller_mini.pdf

i'm pretty pumped for my next brew!

forbesy


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## np1962

forbesy said:


> with the exception that the brown wire from the female connections from the fridge and heater go to the left connection point instead of the right. i don't think this makes a difference though as it is AC
> forbesy



I'm not 100% sure what you mean by this comment but if you think it makes no difference which way you wire a plug or socket in AC situations then good luck!
The wires are a different colour for a reason, brown for active , blue for neutral. Get it right or you will have current where you least expect it.
Your sparky mate should know this...


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## black_labb

Set mine up today. Built it into a baking tin from woolies which actually looks pretty reasonable. I did the flying octopuss creature version as I couldn't find suitable plugs without going to jaycar which is further than I wanted to go. I should get a star washer for the grounds to get it to meet standards when I find one laying around. I need an isolated terminal so that I can connect some extra wires to get the heating working but I won't need that for a while. 

the cost of the extras were 

$7 baking tin
1 bolt and nut for the grounding($0.20 ish) 
2x2m extension chords (2x$3) 
4 grommets ($1ish) 
3 ring terminals for the grounds (1.20ish)


aside from the baking tin and the extension chords I had most of it laying around. 

=15.40 + 20.something for the unit. not bad and seems to be working well.


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## stux

NigeP62 said:


> I'm not 100% sure what you mean by this comment but if you think it makes no difference which way you wire a plug or socket in AC situations then good luck!
> The wires are a different colour for a reason, brown for active , blue for neutral. Get it right or you will have current where you least expect it.
> Your sparky mate should know this...



I think he means the left or right side of the heat or cool screw down terminals on the STC.

which side direction you run through does not matter


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## np1962

Stux said:


> I think he means the left or right side of the heat or cool screw down terminals on the STC.
> 
> which side direction you run through does not matter


True and I was hoping this is what he meant just couldn't open his photobucket link to the diagram.
My point is still valid though, don't mix active and neutral. B)


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## alfadog

forbesy said:


> with the exception that the brown wire from the female connections from the fridge and heater go to the left connection point instead of the right. i don't think this makes a difference though as it is AC



Usually the active from the power supply will go on the side without the switch, otherwise the actual switching mechanism will always be live.

So as you look at it from the back the power supply will go on the right and the fridge and heater will go on the left, as you have done.


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## forbestp

Stux said:


> I think he means the left or right side of the heat or cool screw down terminals on the STC.
> 
> which side direction you run through does not matter



stux, correct, this is what i mean


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## QldKev

lol at the comment by forbesy 'with a sparky mate' and 'i would recommend getting an electrician to do it for you so you are 100% legal and safe'
Then you look at the plugs cut of an extension cord and not being too sure about reading the wiring diagram, then not being sure about that brown wire hookup difference.
I'm taking a guess there was no qualified sparky present.


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## Amber Fluid

black_labb said:


> Set mine up today. Built it into a baking tin from woolies which actually looks pretty reasonable. I did the flying octopuss creature version as I couldn't find suitable plugs without going to jaycar which is further than I wanted to go. I should get a star washer for the grounds to get it to meet standards when I find one laying around. I need an isolated terminal so that I can connect some extra wires to get the heating working but I won't need that for a while.
> 
> the cost of the extras were
> 
> $7 baking tin
> 1 bolt and nut for the grounding($0.20 ish)
> 2x2m extension chords (2x$3)
> 4 grommets ($1ish)
> 3 ring terminals for the grounds (1.20ish)
> 
> 
> aside from the baking tin and the extension chords I had most of it laying around.
> 
> =15.40 + 20.something for the unit. not bad and seems to be working well.




Don't get me wrong as I am no sparky or electrical expert and stand to be corrected. However, I really thought the jiffy boxes were made from plastic, or other nonconductive product, for a reason??.. and for less than $7.


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## Yob

the baking tray worries me too... aint they metal usually? :blink: 

electric and metal... shouldnt come together in the same converstaion unless we is talkin music.

good luck with this one


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## QldKev

Amber Fluid said:


> Don't get me wrong as I am no sparky or electrical expert and stand to be corrected. However, I really thought the jiffy boxes were made from plastic, or other nonconductive product, for a reason??.. and for less than $7.






iamozziyob said:


> the baking tray worries me too... aint they metal usually? :blink:
> 
> electric and metal... shouldnt come together in the same converstaion unless we is talkin music.
> 
> good luck with this one
> 
> View attachment 51869



I'm no qualified sparky either, 

But a non earthed device MUST be insulated, otherwise your potentially up for a Darwin award


QldKev


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## forbestp

NigeP62 said:


> I'm not 100% sure what you mean by this comment but if you think it makes no difference which way you wire a plug or socket in AC situations then good luck!
> The wires are a different colour for a reason, brown for active , blue for neutral. Get it right or you will have current where you least expect it.
> Your sparky mate should know this...



Seeing as my words are not too clear, hopefully this diagram clarifies things. As the current is AC there is no polarity as such - the current swings back and forward so if it is just a simple switch between connections 5 & 6 and 7 & 8 then it should not matter if the wires are swapped around per the attached diagram.


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## Yob

I'm stunned he's still with us. ..

how's about a photo of said unit?


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## Spiesy

anyone know why they don't sell these already wired up?

Australian Safety Standard, C-Tick thing? 

I wonder how much cost this would add to the unit... must be a lot if nobody is selling them, good to go.


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## DU99

the cost involved of getting approval and the time it takes..AS/NZS 3000


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## Amber Fluid

Spiesy said:


> anyone know why they don't sell these already wired up?
> 
> Australian Safety Standard, C-Tick thing?
> 
> I wonder how much cost this would add to the unit... must be a lot if nobody is selling them, good to go.



There was someone on Ebay buying and wiring them for resale (legit or not I have no idea). I believe he/she still is but I don't have the link at hand sorry. They were pretty expensive imo and would be a lot cheap/safer to purchase a temp controller from Keg King if you are not able to get one wired yourself.


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## tricache

Spiesy said:


> anyone know why they don't sell these already wired up?
> 
> Australian Safety Standard, C-Tick thing?
> 
> I wonder how much cost this would add to the unit... must be a lot if nobody is selling them, good to go.



http://www.ibrew.com.au/collections/temper...tat-auto-switch

Freaking expensive IMO


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## Spiesy

^ that is offensive.


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## Nick JD

Spiesy said:


> ^ that is offensive.



Go to the store one day. It's like walking into a circus. The guy's a whisker off wearing a red nose.


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## Spiesy

lol :lol:


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## Screwtop

forbesy said:


> As the current is AC there is no polarity as such



Can I simply say your understanding is very basic. Both ac and dc electrical current is dangerous. There is much more to the domestic single phase MEN power system.



forbesy said:


> Seeing as my words are not too clear, hopefully this diagram clarifies things.
> 
> it should not matter if the wires are swapped around per the attached diagram.
> 
> View attachment 52059



You are correct A switched active is still a switched active no matter which side of the switch contacts you connect the wires to. In your diagram you have correctly wired the correct coloured wires from the supply to each load/device via the switch contacts of the STC-1000

Australian equipment wiring (such as power cords on equipment)
Current colour code (single phase):
Active - Brown
Neutral - Light Blue
Earth - Green/Yellow

Old colour code (single phase)
Active - Red
Neutral - Black
Earth - Green

Don't confuse the Red and Brown you could end up Black and Blue

HOWEVER:
Most electricians would test out the wiring using a meter to correctly identify Active and Neutral, never trust colour coding of home brewed circuits. It the GPO has been installed by a licensed electrical contractor and the plug and lead (wiring into the unit) are factory then up to there the colour code should be correct. 

Use an electrician/electrical contractor

Screwy


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## Amber Fluid

tricache said:


> http://www.ibrew.com.au/collections/temper...tat-auto-switch
> 
> Freaking expensive IMO



That thing is ugly... too many cords coming out of it and bulky imo and that price is ludicrous!!


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## Boogaone

Hey guys, I don't seam to be able to find an STC-1000 on ebay and now, after reading this i'm not sure I want one...I'm not a sparky and don't know any.

I have however, in my searching found quite a few others. This one appears to be all wired up and ready to go...plug n play.

CLICK HERE

Are there any comments (pos/neg) you guys could pass on to me before I purchase this unit?

Much appreciated,
Marty.


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## Maheel

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Temperature-Con...=item2c67ce92f8

or local 

http://brewadelaide.com/retail/index.php?m...products_id=354

but out of stock 

*the one in your link* only seems to cool or heat but not both *and is 5amp only *


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## Ironhorse

Depends what you want to use it for , but 5 amps is very light on....probably not well suited for a fridge or heating element...any electrical experts out there with comment? (I'm no sparky) . From what i have seen, the decent ones seem to be a minimum of 10 amps, keg king sells a fully wired 16 amp one.


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## Spiesy

there's heaps of them available mate.

I just ordered this one HERE

$21.50, to your door.


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## Muscovy_333

Spiesy said:


> there's heaps of them available mate.
> 
> I just ordered this one HERE
> 
> $21.50, to your door.




I ordered 2 from the same supplier yesterday.
Takes the stc count up to 5!

Love em!


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## Boogaone

Maheel said:


> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Temperature-Con...=item2c67ce92f8
> 
> or local
> 
> http://brewadelaide.com/retail/index.php?m...products_id=354
> 
> but out of stock
> 
> *the one in your link* only seems to cool or heat but not both *and is 5amp only *





Spiesy said:


> there's heaps of them available mate.
> 
> I just ordered this one HERE
> 
> $21.50, to your door.






Muscovy said:


> I ordered 2 from the same supplier yesterday.
> Takes the stc count up to 5!
> 
> Love em!



While reading the listing I must have missed the part about heating "and" cooling separately and I'm assuming (*and is 5amp only*) is bad? 

Thanks for the links guys, your champions!!

I was just about to click purchase and thought I better ask the question on the forum before I do...so glad I did  

Marty.


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## Hippy

Boogs said:


> While reading the listing I must have missed the part about heating "and" cooling separately and I'm assuming (*and is 5amp only*) is bad?
> 
> Thanks for the links guys, your champions!!
> 
> I was just about to click purchase and thought I better ask the question on the forum before I do...so glad I did
> 
> Marty.




Just bear in mind that these ones will need to be wired up before you can use them


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## Boogaone

Hippy said:


> Just bear in mind that these ones will need to be wired up before you can use them



Oh, true!! I'll cross that bridge when I get it in my hand and re-read the instructions. It may be more clear to me once I have the unit in front of me. Failing that I have a good mate who is a servicing contractor that may have a contact that could help me out.

Thanks for the heads up/reminder that this unit isn't plug n play.

Cheers,
Marty.


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## carniebrew

A buddy of mine just received his last week, and found this video on Youtube showing how to wire it up. I haven't watched it, and believe the guy solders rather than uses terminal blocks, but it'll give you an idea how it all goes together regardless: 

Personally I used this guide when I wired mine up: http://urowiki.filecore.net/index.php/Thermostat


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## Hippy

The diagram on post 111 of this link is widely recognised as a sound way to wire it up and easy to follow.


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## Diesel80

Hippy said:


> The diagram on post 111 of this link is widely recognised as a sound way to wire it up and easy to follow.




I use the same diagram. Looks like NJD was p1ssed when sketching it, but it works well none the less.

Cheers,
D80

Edit: suggest you don't get p1ssed before wiring up yours.


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## Wolfman

STUPID me bought the 12v ones. Is there any difference in how you wire the 12v ones up?


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## carniebrew

Wolfman said:


> STUPID me bought the 12v ones. Is there any difference in how you wire the 12v ones up?


You can still use it, you'll just need a 12v power pack to power it up, and run 240v wiring separately to power your heating/cooling. Check this post.


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## Nick JD

Diesel80 said:


> I use the same diagram. Looks like NJD was p1ssed when sketching it, but it works well none the less.
> 
> Cheers,
> D80
> 
> Edit: suggest you don't get p1ssed before wiring up yours.



I didn't draw that wiring diagram. I would have done it pissed if I did, but. 

Just don't print it out in greyscale when your printer is out of coloured ink, go round to Damien's place and connect the grey wire to the greyer wire not the dark grey wire. :huh:


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## Wolfman

carniebrew said:


> You can still use it, you'll just need a 12v power pack to power it up, and run 240v wiring separately to power your heating/cooling. Check this post.



Cheers mate.


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## semco

Good day!

Is it possible in this temperature controller settings to make sure that in the 'idle' mode, two relay contacts of these relays are closed? When the temperature is lower than a predetermined lower temperature opens the contact 'Heat,' contact 'Cooling' remained closed. If you exceed the upper temperature of openers another contact - 'Cooling' and number 'heating', respectively, remained closed?


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## mr_wibble

semco said:


> Good day!
> 
> Is it possible in this temperature controller settings to make sure that in the 'idle' mode, two relay contacts of these relays are closed? When the temperature is lower than a predetermined lower temperature opens the contact 'Heat,' contact 'Cooling' remained closed. If you exceed the upper temperature of openers another contact - 'Cooling' and number 'heating', respectively, remained closed?


Hi, I do not know the answer to your question.

But I suspect this could influenced by the "Difference Set Value" under F2 which defaults to 0.5°C
Perhaps you can set this to 2°C (or more) and test to see if both the relays stay closed when neither heating nor cooling is necessary?

When my keg refridgerator is at the set temperature, the LED dot next to "Cool" on the front panel is not illuminated.
So I expect this means both relays are open, but I do not know for sure.

My fermentation fridge is currently in heating mode, so I cannot check it right now.

cheers,
-kt


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## pat86

I've just wired mine up yesterday to use with a bar fridge as a fermentation fridge, can post up pictures of the set-up though I based it on the diagrams and pictures from AHB.


I am yet to get it checked by a qualified electrician, don't know many so would definitely be open to buying someone a few beers or paying them to inspect my wiring if there are any qualified electricians hanging around! I'm based in Sydney - just PM me. 


I did not connect anything for heating, and just came across Nick JD's photo, which basically looks almost identical to my set up, except I used a larger box and did it width ways (probably should have gone length ways): 









*My Set Up: *

1 x STC 1000 (~$19 off ebay)
1 x 3m Arlex extension cord ($3 from Bunnings) (Cut roughly in half and then cut 2 x 12 CM sections for additional wires)
2 x Cable Glands (Jaycar)
1 x 15A 12 way terminal strip ($1.85 - They didn't have 3-way, so I sawed off plastic to just use 3 - Jaycar)
1 x Jiffy Box ($7 Jaycar)
1 x Wire strippers/ cutters ($9 Jaycar)
2 x Cable Ties (Bunnings)
Drill - Already had - as a heads-up though to anyone, my largest drill bit was still not large enough for the cable glands, and it is a monster 13mm. I had to widen them manually with my pocket saw 
Pocket Saw (couldn't find small hack saw - didn't want to use a crappy jig saw)
Block of scrap wood & clamps - to provide stability and clean exits when drilling the jiffy box

*Total Cost: *
~ $40 with some left over parts and tools ( Wire strippers, cable ties) Quite a few hours of time reading literally hundreds of pages on AHB!


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## pat86

OK, so tallied the above and cost might have been $3-$5 for cable glands so I think the total cost is actually more like $45-$50 all up, more or less depending on how much stuff you already have. I could have borrowed the wire strippers and used a not as solid plastic box although I am already a bit sketchy on the safety of this! 

A few photos of my STC 1000 box attached:









Pretty ugly but you gotta do what you gotta do...












Finished product:


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