# Is Us-05 A Slow Fermenter?



## wbosher (15/10/12)

I put a kit Pilsener on 10 days ago but used the us-05 yeast instead of the kit yeast. It has been at a steady 18-20 degree range the whole time, but it is still going! I did this same kit with the yeast supplied in the kit once before and the fermentation was done within 5 days. Nothing is different from the first time except the yeast.

Checked the gravity and still has a few more points to go, after 10 days. 

Is this yeast known to be a little slow, or could there be a problem?


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## tricache (15/10/12)

10 days is fine....I always say to people (and also myself) "Low and Slow"

I have had beer ferment for at least 2 weeks and then leave it for another 1 or 2 weeks afterwards...not going to hurt it


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## crd0902 (15/10/12)

Well normally it is a fast finishing yeast going by everything I've heard but I use it a lot and find it goes flat out for the first 4-5 days then just Plods along slowly for another week. I always leave it for at least two weeks. Should not be a problem Chris


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## Ross (15/10/12)

wbosher said:


> I put a kit Pilsener on 10 days ago but used the us-05 yeast instead of the kit yeast. It has been at a steady 18-20 degree range the whole time, but it is still going! I did this same kit with the yeast supplied in the kit once before and the fermentation was done within 5 days. Nothing is different from the first time except the yeast.
> 
> Checked the gravity and still has a few more points to go, after 10 days.
> 
> Is this yeast known to be a little slow, or could there be a problem?




If it's a standard strength brew it should be long finished - Is your gravity still dropping or are you just expecting it to finish a little lower, as it may well be finished & just not as high an attenuator as the can yeast?
If it is still dropping & the beer is regular strength, then the yeast must have had pretty poor vitality before you pitched it. Either way, beer should still be fine.


cheers Ross


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## [email protected] (15/10/12)

If your yeast was healthy and you pitched the correct amount for the gravity and batch size you are fermenting it should be at FG after a week tops. 

US - 05 is fast and clean at 18deg in my experience. However i usually pitch 1g of dry yeast / L of wort for standard gravity 1045 - 1055, more for higher gravity worts such as a 2IPA.


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## wbosher (15/10/12)

I started off with a hiss and a roar, had a HUGE krausen after only 24 hours. Been going ever since.

It's not a high gravity beer - OG about 1040, FG should be about 1008. Well at least that's how the first time was. Its an 11g sachet, the kit yeast was only about 7g.

Might take another reading tomorrow and see where it is. I'm not too worried, just wondering why it's taking so much longer than the kit yeast I used the first time with this kit.

Sure it'll be fine.


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## DUANNE (15/10/12)

is the gravity still dropping or is the krausen just hanging around the top of the beer still. i have had that yeast hang around for weeks as a big krausen well after finishing until i crash chilled the beer finally dropping it out.


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## black_labb (15/10/12)

It isn't a slow fermentor but it is slow at dropping out and you need a long time or to crash chill to get a clear beer.


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## geneabovill (15/10/12)

Did you do this?


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## wbosher (16/10/12)

geneabovill said:


> Did you do this?




No. The instructions on the packet said to just sprinkle onto the wort. The temp was about 20 degrees though, although this could have dropped as it was a very cold night and I can't remember if I had the heat belt on for the first night.

From then on it was at a steady 18-20 degrees, but the fermentation may have already stalled though. However I think this was unlikely due to a massive foamy krausen on top.

I'll take another gravity reading tonight as the last two (Friday and Sunday) indicated that it was still dropping. 

I had a quick peek this morning (no I didn't remove the lid) before I came to work and there was still krausen on top, but it looked like the beer had cleared a little - it was very cloudy last night but quite clear ths morning, although the lighting wasn't great so could have just been the light.

I'll have to take some of my own advice and be patient. Sure it'll be fine.


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## GalBrew (16/10/12)

wbosher said:


> No. The instructions on the packet said to just sprinkle onto the wort. The temp was about 20 degrees though, although this could have dropped as it was a very cold night and I can't remember if I had the heat belt on for the first night.
> 
> From then on it was at a steady 18-20 degrees, but the fermentation may have already stalled though. However I think this was unlikely due to a massive foamy krausen on top.
> 
> ...



I had an incident with US-05 where I had a power outage in my garage just after pitching and the temp of the fermenting wort dropped to about 11degC overnight until I reset my temp control back to 18deg. Increased the lag time somewhat, but also pumped out a crapload of esters, which took some months to clear up in the bottle.


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## wbosher (16/10/12)

I don't think it got quite that low, but could have gone as low as 14 or 15 degrees. I think 15 is still ok with this yeast though.

Even if it did drop, something was still happening though. There was a very thick gooey krausen the next day.


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## wbosher (17/10/12)

Checked it last night, looking good now. After about 11 days the Krausen has all but gone and the beer is clearing up. Haven't taken an FG reading yet, but I'm confident that it will be ok. Should be able to bottle this weekend.

As usual, looks like I was worried about nothing...


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## geneabovill (17/10/12)

In my experience US-05 is a fickle beast. I've had the krausen stick around for two weeks, and then the next batch (same recipe) it went nuts for two days, then went silent with the SG dropping steadily.

FWIW, I'd let it go until you reach a plateau on your hydro readings then bottle/keg.


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## wbosher (17/10/12)

I was going to try my hand at washing and storing this yeast for my next brew (probably an extract APA), never done that before. 

Not sure I want to now with this yeast...


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## geneabovill (17/10/12)

wbosher said:


> I was going to try my hand at washing and storing this yeast for my next brew (probably an extract APA), never done that before.
> 
> Not sure I want to now with this yeast...



You can do it, but with a pack of US-05 costing less than $5, I wouldn't. I seem to remember reading/hearing that dry yeast mutates too much in the first generation, so your results might not be consistent. Having said that, it may mutate into something beautiful after all. 
If you're set on reusing the yeast, make some beer bread with it.


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## wbosher (17/10/12)

Not so much set on reusing it, just wanted to give it a go...something new to try. But yeah, for the price, it's probably not worth it.


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## geneabovill (17/10/12)

Next batch, use a liquid yeast, and then reuse that. I reckon it hits its peak flavour after the fifth generation or so.


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## wbosher (17/10/12)

geneabovill said:


> Next batch, use a liquid yeast, and then reuse that. I reckon it hits its peak flavour after the fifth generation or so.



Probably not yet. Still brewing kits, and may be doing an extract soon. I don't think its worth spending almost $20 on a liquid yeast for those beers.

Maybe when I get into something a little more advanced.


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## Malted (17/10/12)

geneabovill said:


> Next batch, use a liquid yeast, and then reuse that. I reckon it hits its peak flavour after the fifth generation or so.



That statement is possibly too broad. Some liquid yeasts this may be true, I am skeptical if it is true for all liquid yeasts. For instance, I have found with reuse that some liquid wheat yeasts seemed to loose their ability to produce banana esters and became more dominant in clove phenols. This is desireable for some but I personally like the banana flavour in a wheat beer. These days I split wheat yeasts into four vials and spin them up on a starter for use. This way they are essentially first generation each use. I am led to beleive that 1469 West Yorkshire Ale can improve with reuse.


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## petesbrew (17/10/12)

If you're worried it's taking a long time, ramp the temp up to 30c.
It'll taste like shit but...


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## geneabovill (17/10/12)

Agreed. I wouldn't repitch certain strains, but OP was discussing US-05, an American Ale strain. Wyeast 1056 would be my pick for a liquid equivalent, and certainly find that it improves after a few generations, provided its managed appropriately.

IMO, the wheat yeast is too estery on the first pitch, but by second gen its definitely more balanced. This is just a subjective preference, not science, though.


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## wbosher (17/10/12)

petesbrew said:


> If you're worried it's taking a long time, ramp the temp up to 30c.
> It'll taste like shit but...




I'm not THAT worried  Anyway, seems alright now. 

Thinking maybe I should reuse it, just to practice it and see if it turns out ok. Would hate to try it on an expensive yeat sometime down the track, and completely balls it up.


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## bugeater (17/10/12)

The krausen definitely hangs around for a while with US-05. But it doesn't seem particularly slow. Pitch onto a US-05 yeast cake from your previous ferment and it will be mostly done in in a day


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## kevo (17/10/12)

geneabovill said:


> You can do it, but with a pack of US-05 costing less than $5, I wouldn't. I seem to remember reading/hearing that dry yeast mutates too much in the first generation, so your results might not be consistent. Having said that, it may mutate into something beautiful after all.
> If you're set on reusing the yeast, make some beer bread with it.



I think it's worth reusing even dry yeast - a few generations along the track, docile yeasts turn into monsters in my experience.

Give it a wash and reuse within a short time and you should be fine.

Kev


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## Black Devil Dog (17/10/12)

"Thinking maybe I should reuse it, just to practice it and see if it turns out ok. Would hate to try it on an expensive yeat sometime down the track, and completely balls it up."





I'm going to practice on couple of cheaper yeasts, try and confine as many of my trial and error experiences on my K&K's as I can rather than when I eventually upscale.


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## wbosher (18/10/12)

kevo said:


> I think it's worth reusing even dry yeast - a few generations along the track, docile yeasts turn into monsters in my experience.
> 
> Give it a wash and reuse within a short time and you should be fine.
> 
> Kev




After washing it, would I just pitch the whole lot, or just some of it? I've seen a link on this site somewhere, which I can't seem to find at the moment, to a calculator which says how much washed/reused yeast to pitch based on how old it is, and the OG of the wort.

I've also read somewhere that over pitching is as bad as under pitching.


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## jameson (18/10/12)

wbosher said:


> I put a kit Pilsener on 10 days ago but used the us-05 yeast instead of the kit yeast. It has been at a steady 18-20 degree range the whole time, but it is still going! I did this same kit with the yeast supplied in the kit once before and the fermentation was done within 5 days. Nothing is different from the first time except the yeast.
> 
> Checked the gravity and still has a few more points to go, after 10 days.
> 
> Is this yeast known to be a little slow, or could there be a problem?


I have two ipas double batch. Used two different packs of us05. The gravity was 1065 to start and took 14 days to get to 1028 and another 6 to get to 1.020. It is the first time I have done a big beer over 1.055 with it. Maybe there is a poor batch or I simply under pitched. I have recently bought yeast slants to start splitting wyeast packs for culturing. 
Will I ever use us05 again? Hell yea I have used it in 30 plus very drinkable beers most of them kits and bits.


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## geneabovill (18/10/12)

Wolfy (I think) has a few good tips on yeast management, and the links to his blog are in his sig. There also loads of videos on YouTube, rinsing/storing yeast. Also read through the articles on AHB. The links are at the top of the page.


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## wbosher (18/10/12)

geneabovill said:


> Wolfy (I think) has a few good tips on yeast management, and the links to his blog are in his sig. There also loads of videos on YouTube, rinsing/storing yeast. Also read through the articles on AHB. The links are at the top of the page.




Yep, just reading through this one - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...l=harvest+yeast - farkin brilliant!!!

Trying to read through all 12 pages but my boss keeps giving me work to do. :lol:


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## Parks (18/10/12)

I haven't read all the posts here but I have had US-05 struggle when used under 17 degrees.


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## wbosher (18/10/12)

Parks said:


> I haven't read all the posts here but I have had US-05 struggle when used under 17 degrees.




I'm not sure, but I suspect this _may_ have been the case early in the fermentation. Anyway, seems to have finished ok now.  

I'll be bottling this weekend so I'm going to have a crack at harvesting it for my next brew.


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## Malted (18/10/12)

wbosher said:


> I've seen a link on this site somewhere, which I can't seem to find at the moment, to a calculator which says how much washed/reused yeast to pitch based on how old it is, and the OG of the wort.



Mr Malty Pitching Rate online calculator LINK

:super:


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## wbosher (18/10/12)

Malted said:


> Mr Malty Pitching Rate online calculator LINK
> 
> :super:




Gold!!! I think it's somewhere in Wolfy's post about harvesting yeast, but I lost it somewhere in the 12 pages...which I'm still trying to read. My boss seems to think I'm here to _work_ or something. :lol:


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## wbosher (22/10/12)

Fermentation is now well and truly done (been at around 1.008 for a few days now), but beer is VERY cloudy. I'm probably going to leave it for another week, already been two.

I've heard cold crashing can help to settle the yeast, but I don't have a fridge to do this. I've got in sitting in a tub of ice water and got it down to about 12oC but it won't go any lower than that. Is that low enough to get the yeast to drop?

The other problem is I've got to get it out of the bath to get to the tap to bottle it, which will stir it all up again, so this whole thing might be futile anyway.


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## Liam_snorkel (22/10/12)

after the bottles have carbed up, store them upright in the fridge for at least few days before serving.


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## bugeater (22/10/12)

wbosher said:


> Fermentation is now well and truly done (been at around 1.008 for a few days now), but beer is VERY cloudy. I'm probably going to leave it for another week, already been two.



Yeah US-05 isn't a great flocculator. I've used gelatine from the supermarket a few times to help it along and it works great. Not sure how much you are meant to use, but I think I've used about 8g dissolved in water that has been slightly cooled from boiling for a 20 litre batch. You can definitely see the yeast drop out (well if your fermenter is transparent).


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

Yeah, I thought about using gelatin but I want to wash and reuse the yeast for my next batch...hopefully my first AG one.  

I've read a lot of conflicting reports on the affects of gelatin when harvesting yeast, so I'm a little hesitant in doing that. 

I guess the best thing is just to wait a little longer and then bottle. As Liam said, the yeast should settle in the bottle on refrigerated, just want to avoid huge amounts of sediment in the bottles...time will tell I guess.


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## bum (23/10/12)

There's always the option of racking on to the gelatine if you like - many used to suggest this as being better than adding it to primary anyway. That way you get the benefits of using gelatine (such as they are) and get to use the yeast from primary as you wish (not that gelatine would necessarily prevent this anyway).


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

bum said:


> There's always the option of racking on to the gelatine if you like - many used to suggest this as being better than adding it to primary anyway. That way you get the benefits of using gelatine (such as they are) and get to use the yeast from primary as you wish (not that gelatine would necessarily prevent this anyway).




I don't have the equipment to do this, and to be honest I'd be more than a little nervous racking with the added riskes of infection etc...

It seems to be about a 50/50 split opinion on this subject, some say they wash the gel off of the yeast and have no problems with it, others say rack to secondary or the yeast is buggered.

Got a coin?


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## geneabovill (23/10/12)

Beer goes reasonably clear during bottle conditioning anyway. IMO, the clarity doesn't really affect the taste, but some styles call for crystal clear product.

If you're careful with your pour and leave about 25mm of beer in the bottom of the bottle, it should be satisfactory.

With regard to infection, rinsing yeast can introduce infection just as much as racking can. Unless you reculture from a single cell a la Braukaiser (www.braukaiser.com).


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

geneabovill said:


> Beer goes reasonably clear during bottle conditioning anyway. IMO, the clarity doesn't really affect the taste, but some styles call for crystal clear product.
> 
> If you're careful with your pour and leave about 25mm of beer in the bottom of the bottle, it should be satisfactory.
> 
> With regard to infection, rinsing yeast can introduce infection just as much as racking can. Unless you reculture from a single cell a la Braukaiser (www.braukaiser.com).




I't a kit Pilsener (hopfully my last kit beer), so needs to be pretty clear. Yeah, I might forget about the gel, I'll just try to get it as cold as I can over the next few days and then bottle.

I don't have the gear to rack anyway, I do have some jars ready to go for the yeast though. I'm doing this (harvest yeast) more as a practise exersise that anything else, just want to try it, but should still save me some $$$.


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## juzz1981 (23/10/12)

Parks said:


> I haven't read all the posts here but I have had US-05 struggle when used under 17 degrees.



I have and usually ferment US05 at about 16c and will take 7 days to ferment out a 1050 OG to 1010 FG

I typically use a pack of US05 then split yeast cake into 4 containers which will give me 5 brews from the one pack, had no problems so far.
Since using brewbrite instead of whirlflock though, i cant seem to seperate the yeast from other trub so I just pitch the whole lot in to the new batch.


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## Parks (23/10/12)

juzz1981 said:


> I have and usually ferment US05 at about 16c and will take 7 days to ferment out a 1050 OG to 1010 FG
> 
> I typically use a pack of US05 then split yeast cake into 4 containers which will give me 5 brews from the one pack, had no problems so far.
> Since using brewbrite instead of whirlflock though, i cant seem to seperate the yeast from other trub so I just pitch the whole lot in to the new batch.


It's worth noting that my 16 degrees might not be your 16 degrees. Variance in thermometers, placement etc will give different readings. If you are measuring your fridge temp wort temp will most definitely be higher.

You also may be better at oxygenating your wort than me which would make a big difference at lower temps.


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## bugeater (23/10/12)

wbosher said:


> Yeah, I thought about using gelatin but I want to wash and reuse the yeast for my next batch...hopefully my first AG one.
> 
> I've read a lot of conflicting reports on the affects of gelatin when harvesting yeast, so I'm a little hesitant in doing that.



I'm surprised the gelatin would affect the yeast in any major way. The yeast in my current batch fermenting has been through two prior ferments. Gelatined each time. First reuse was pouring straight onto the yeast cake. Second reuse was storing some yeast in a glass bottle in the fridge for a few days with a single wash with cooled previously boiled water.


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

bugeater said:


> I'm surprised the gelatin would affect the yeast in any major way. The yeast in my current batch fermenting has been through two prior ferments. Gelatined each time. First reuse was pouring straight onto the yeast cake. Second reuse was storing some yeast in a glass bottle in the fridge for a few days with a single wash with cooled previously boiled water.



That's the problem. So many say almost exactly what you just said, and an equal amount say the opposite.

Might go with a coin toss.


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## bugeater (23/10/12)

What is the bad that happens with using gelatine? I must say I've not heard of this till now.

Yeast are pretty hardy little beasties. I used to work with them in the lab for many years and you wouldn't believe the things we would do to them and what they would survive.


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

From what I've read (well the bad half anyway), it's not about killing the yeast because you're not. It's about encasing the yeasties in a gelatinous goo that they can't escape from when you repitch - no _all _of the yeast but a good number of them.

Obviously this hasn't been your experience.

Bugger it, I might just give it a try anyway...my coin says tails.


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## bum (23/10/12)

Your gut tells you this is an iffy situation. Why are you even thinking about this for your first AG batch? Try to limit the number of things you can stuff up, dude. Don't try to maximise them.


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

bum said:


> Your gut tells you this is an iffy situation. Why are you even thinking about this for your first AG batch? Try to limit the number of things you can stuff up, dude. Don't try to maximise them.




Shit bum, you're right. I'll just gel it, and buy some more yeast. I'll play around with this another time.


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## Mike L'Itorus (23/10/12)

without getting into a pissing match of dry yeast vs liquid yeast, let's just look at it from a cost perspective:

Time outlayed, vs cash outlayed. In either case, if in doubt, throw it out. It rhymes, so it must be true.

Liquid yeast is more expensive (on the initial purchase) than dry, so there is a natural tendancie to want to get future return on the initial expenditure. Fair enough, up to a point. But _only _to a point. I sometimes (but admittedly, not often) use dry yeast....bit given how cheap it is, eaven if everything goes 100% hunky-dory, it's so cheap it's not worth my time and effort to faff around with saving it. I consider it to be a throw-away item. _*ESPECIALLY *_when doing AG, which takes anywhere from 4 to 8 hours (if you want to get fancy-schmancy with all kinds of ridonculously kerfuffle-ish techniques) to do. Last thing I want to do is waste all that time and effort in order to shave $4.00 off the cost of 19L of kegged beer.....bigger picture, man. Look at the _bigger _picture. 

2c.


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

Bum, Mike, you're both right. When I first came up with the idea of trying this, doing AG was the furthest thing from my mind. At _best_ I was thinking about the possibility of doing an extract brew.

As far as saving money, that depends on who you believe. Some say that you can get 5 generations out of us-05 with out any problems. Even if you take a more conservative view and go with say three generations, that's about 7 brews - assuming you get enough for 2 brews out of each harvest. If you go to 5th gen, your looking at 31 - that about NZ$215!!


Anyway, the main reason for me doing this was practice and just wanting to try something different. I'll take both your advice and keep things simple for the 1st AG.


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## bugeater (23/10/12)

wbosher said:


> From what I've read (well the bad half anyway), it's not about killing the yeast because you're not. It's about encasing the yeasties in a gelatinous goo that they can't escape from when you repitch - no _all _of the yeast but a good number of them.



I guess you could just use a higher pitch rate if that is the case. Or you could use less gelatine to minimise the problem. Once they get growing the problem will be gone, since the majority of the yeast will be "new" yeast.

I've just had a quick read around and it looks like many of the "anti-reuse of gelatinised yeast" crowd actually haven't tried it and it failed. They just haven't tried.

Anyway, I agree with the others - if you are going to do your first AG batch, minimise the variables and just use a fresh packet of yeast. You can still harvest the yeast from your current batch to work through the workflow to harvest and wash the beasties for reuse.


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

Yeah, I think I'm still going to do it even after the gelatine, just won't use it for this batch (or probably the next couple).

Want to give it a go to see how quick and easy it is (or not). Then I can make a decision on whether I'll do it in the future.

Thanks for the advice guys, you may very well have saved my first AG batch.


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## wbosher (23/10/12)

I just pulled the fermenter out of my ice bath trying to keep sloshing to a minimum. Looks good.

Got it down to about 10oC and the yeast seems to have settled nicely. Even with the sloshing around lifting it out and moving it, didn't even disturb the trub.

Might not even need to worry about the gelatine.


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## Killer Brew (17/8/16)

Bumping this necro thread because I'm experiencing a slow ferment with US-05 in a IIPA and am wondering if it is going to effect flavour adversely? Once it hits FG i intend throwing a large chunk of dry hops at it but don't want to waste them if the beer is going to be no good anyway. Thoughts?

A few details:
IIPA
21.5L
OG: 1071
Glad American Ale 5kg
Wey Wheat 0.4kg
Xtal Mdm 0.3kg
Acidulated 0.1kg

2 x pckts US-05 rehydrated and pitched in at 18 degrees after oxygenating by shaking the **** out of the fermenter. Has held between 16 - 18 degrees (cold overnight early on let it slip down a couple of degrees but have snuggled it with a hot water bottle in the fridge overnight since). After 24 hours gave the FV a bit more of a shake to get a little more oxygen in and last night gave it a swirl to rouse the yeast.

Adjusted refractometer readings after:
36 hrs 1062
96 hrs 1032
120 hrs 1027

Expected FG according to Beersmith is 1013 so still has a ways to go.


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## razz (17/8/16)

All looks good to me mate, not sure you need to add O2 to dry yeast as it has plenty stored from the drying process. Down to 1.027 in 120 hours is a good result. Don't sweat!


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## goatchop41 (17/8/16)

Considered bumping your temp to 20-21-ish to help it finish out? Wouldn't have thought that it would give you unwanted flavours after this much time/in the last third of the gravity. Looks like it's managing well for 5-6 dys in anyhow.
I believe I read that Pirate Life use US-05 at ~21o the whole way through for their beers


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## MHB (17/8/16)

You are asking US-05 to reach nearly 82% apparent attenuation, you are or have been near the bottom of the temperature range and didn't by the sound of it really aerate properly at the start.
I suspect 1.013 might be a bit ambitious, to get that sort of performance out of US-05 you really have to do everything right. Good to see that you pitched two packets in a high gravity beer, but I suspect that the temperature might be moving around more than you realise.
I'm going to suggest that you invest in a STC-1000 (they cost about the same as two packets of yeast on eBay) and find an old fridge, ideally put a fan in it and you wont need a heater. Temperatures moving around aren't very helpful if you are trying to push a yeast to its limits.

Shaking the fermenter after the start of ferment wont introduce any O2, its already been pushed out of the head space by CO2, nor is aeration usually necessary with good pitches of dry yeast - at or near the yeast's limits it can help but only at the start, after that introducing more O2 in not recommended.
Mark


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## Killer Brew (17/8/16)

Thanks MHB. Yeah, I can see that 82% AA would be a stretch, perhaps more like 75% AA to get to 1.018 would be more realistic? I do have the STC-1000 controlling the fridge in the laundry and usually have no issues. However a very cold night saw the temp drop overnight, perhaps I need to get a heat pad or are you saying a fan moving the air would stop this happening? Or perhaps my money will be better spent on an aeration stone. I had read on here about others hitting high gravity beers with further oxygen at around the 24hr mark so was trying to replicate that although obviously now, as you point out, shaking at this stage won't achieve this as the headspace is all CO2.

Should I expect any adverse flavours from this relatively slower ferment?


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## MHB (17/8/16)

A 5W fan is a 5W heater so yes with a fan you don't need a heater.
The other advantages of a fan are that the whole fridge is at one temperature, without it can be easily be 5oC different top to bottom. A fan makes the air move so you get faster heating/cooling rather than just relying on convection.

Set up a chest freezer recently for controlled carbonation, used a little Jaycar computer fan, two screw on grill and the cord/plug set they sell. Its a big chesty that holds 3 X 50L kegs, holds temperature within 0.2oC top to bottom - end to end and the temp of the beer barely moves off the set point - so we get exact carbonation control (having a digital gauge that reads reliably to 0.1kPa helps).

Put in a fan
Mark


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