# STC 1000



## woodwormm

I just wanted to break the Electronics, Hardware & Software Section's cherry for STC 1000 threads...

this poor section is going to be like the proverbial sausage down a hall way once all the STC 1000 threads have a go.... :super:

Love the new AHB!


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## TheCarbinator

So if I have a problem with my STC 1000, do I post here or do I start a new thread?


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## woodwormm

post it here and wait for all the nay-sayers to say "did you search" .... hehe I like the cut of ur jib Carbinator


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## raven19

I would anticipate Dane will be *maybe* moving some of the bigger topics (such as STC threads) to these new areas given some time.


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## TheCarbinator

All jokes aside, I do have a problem with my new STC 1000 though.

It keeps over cooling and kicks in the heating function (I have a heat pad stuck to the inside of the chesty).

Yes I do have the probe in a two litre bucket of water.

No I haven't searched for another thread due to it not working since the upgrade.

I had it set at 18c with 1 degree tolerance and then I changed the tolerance to 0.3c and it is still doing it.

The compressor delay is set to 10 mins.

I have taped the probe to the side of the fermenter tonight with a piece of insulation over it so I will see how that goes.

My theory is that the freezer is so efficient that the ice on the inside walls continues to cool after the compressor has been switched off.

I am thinking of installing a fan so that the ice will not form so much and the temp will be more even.

Opinions???


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## woodwormm

I find chesty's always overshoot worse than fridges so you may be on the money with the ice on the walls... a fan may help the situation. on the upside though your 23L ish fermenter volume is not going to change as much/quickly as your 2L bucket so i dont think your fermenter is fluctuating quite as much as you may be worrying about... how's the beer taste?


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## stux

Your chesty is cooling flatout, cooling the cavity and then turning off. But then the fermenter keeps on cooling as the ambient is colder than it. Then it gets too cold and the heater kicks in. But the heater has to warm the chesty before it has an effect, once it warms the cavity it over warms it and then your fermenter needs cooling and the cycle continues

You need to break the cycle, and you can do this by applying direct heat to your fermenter with a heat belt, and then reading the fermenter's actual wort temperature with a thermowell.

Your chesty will probably still overcool, but at least the heater won't have to fight it anymore and you should get into an equilibrium.


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## verysupple

Yeah, I agree with Stux. I have my probe actually in my wort but it over shoots on the lower temp. I agree and think it's because the 20 - 25 L of wort takes so much longer to change temp than the air temp inside the fridge (yeah, i use a fridge not freezer). So once the wort is at, say 18C, the air temp is way lower.

Anyhoos, I found that after the vigorous primary, where there is enough heat being produced to keep wort temp within +/- 0.3C, if I raise the temp setting +0.3C it stays about right (i.e. if I want 18C I set it to 18.3C) and the over-shoot on the cool side cancels out.


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## carniebrew

TheCarbinator said:


> I had it set at 18c with 1 degree tolerance and then I changed the tolerance to 0.3c and it is still doing it.
> 
> The compressor delay is set to 10 mins.


Shouldn't it be the other way around? IIRC, the tolerance means how far below your set temp it has to drop before it turns the heat on (or vice versa). So if you set your stc to 18, with a 1 degree tolerance, and it gets to 19 degrees, it'll turn your freezer on (after the 10 min delay you've built in). As soon as it hits 18, it turns it off, and won't turn the heat on unless your temp continues to drop and reaches 17. So putting it to a 0.3 degree tolerance will actually turn the heat on when it drops to 17.7....i.e. more often.

I agree with everyone saying your freezer is so cold it's continuing to drop the temp of your wort for a long time after it reaches the desired temp. But maybe you need to increase the tolerance temp to say 2 degrees, and decrease your compressor delay (maybe 2 mins?). The only problem with that is it won't start cooling until your 2 litres of water reaches 2 degrees over your desired temp...but that may not be too bad, given the temp of 2 litres will raise much more quickly than 20 litres + of wort.

It's early and i'm a bit foggy from a head cold but I think that's right?


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## QldKev

carniebrew said:


> Shouldn't it be the other way around? IIRC, the tolerance means how far below your set temp it has to drop before it turns the heat on (or vice versa). So if you set your stc to 18, with a 1 degree tolerance, and it gets to 19 degrees, it'll turn your freezer on (after the 10 min delay you've built in). As soon as it hits 18, it turns it off, and won't turn the heat on unless your temp continues to drop and reaches 17. So putting it to a 0.3 degree tolerance will actually turn the heat on when it drops to 17.7....i.e. more often.
> 
> I agree with everyone saying your freezer is so cold it's continuing to drop the temp of your wort for a long time after it reaches the desired temp. But maybe you need to increase the tolerance temp to say 2 degrees, and decrease your compressor delay (maybe 2 mins?). The only problem with that is it won't start cooling until your 2 litres of water reaches 2 degrees over your desired temp...but that may not be too bad, given the temp of 2 litres will raise much more quickly than 20 litres + of wort.
> 
> It's early and i'm a bit foggy from a head cold but I think that's right?



You don't want to measure the wall of the kegerator, or little bottles of water. As carniebrew mentioned, the temp swing are different from your wort. You want to control the temp of your wort, so measure the temp of your wort. Stick the probe to the side and insulate it. With the bigger thermal mass of the wort you will find all the overshoot and other issue will go away. Set the Hy to a low number, and compressor delay to a couple of minutes.


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## Spiesy

get a thermowell and probe, mate - measure what's actually going on within your wort. Cheap as chips on BeerBelly.


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## Maheel

Spiesy said:


> get a thermowell and probe, mate - measure what's actually going on within your wort. Cheap as chips on BeerBelly.


plenty throw the stc probe into the fermenter

or you could make a thermo well out of a bit of plastic tube to cover the probe and wire and drop it in.


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## slash22000

TheCarbinator said:


> It keeps over cooling and kicks in the heating function (I have a heat pad stuck to the inside of the chesty).


This happens to me as well with my chest freezer. No matter what I do, freezer will always cool more than I want. Since I can't "fix" it I decided to use some Logic© to work around it. 

I figured out that, no matter what, the absolute minimum it would end up cooling is about -0.8ºC from where it started. Doesn't matter what settings I use on the STC-1000 or the freezer itself, absolute minimum it's going to chill is about -0.8ºC.

So what I did was set it to a temperature to take into account the 0.8ºC swing. if I'm making an ale (18ºC ideal fermentation temp) I set the "target temperature" to 18.3ºC and the difference to 0.3ºC with minimum compressor delay. Thus, it turns on the cooling on at 18.6ºC (I figure it's better to be slightly warmer than slightly too cool) and cools it down to 17.8ºC in about 20 seconds flat. Not ideal, but I can live with +/- 0.5ºC from the ideal environment.

If I'm chilling more than a few degrees at a time (e.g. when crash chilling from 18ºC to -1ºC), I make sure to set it maybe 1 or 2 degrees higher than the temperature I want so it doesn't barrel past at 100% compressor and end up at absolute zero or something. Then when it's down to the "almost" perfect temp I'll set it to the temp I want (keeping in mind the 0.8ºC swing again).

No idea if that helps you at all, but hey, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.


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## TheCarbinator

Thanks for all your help guys.

I am working on a thermowell for the fermenter (along with the many other things I am working on).

The probe taped to the side of the fermenter will have to do for this brew.

Is a fan in the chesty worthwhile or is it just a waste of time?


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## jaypes

Insulate your probe on the side of your fermentor with some foam or the like


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## TheCarbinator

Read the 5th post Jaypes.


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## jaypes

sorry i cant count, or read posts with more than 4 lines


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## philmud

I have a possibly stupid question. I am about to grab an STC-1000 from ebay, and I'm wondering if there's any difference between the units. I notice some are Aussie based, but I assume they are the same unit as the ones from Honkers and China - Some are also branded Elitech and some are generic - any difference? Did anyone find their seller so great they'd recommend or should I just hit "Buy it Now"?


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## bowhunterslodge

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-purpose-Temperature-Controller-STC-1000-Whit-sensor-/320628773067?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160

I ORDERED TWO FROM THIS FELLA A DAY AGO,SEE HOW I GO,SAYS POSTED ALREADY..


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## philmud

That's the one I was looking at actually! I think I'll probably just give them a go too


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## Amber_Man

I converted my freezer to a fridge, works heaps better now. It doesnt cool as quickly and the temperature stays a lot more stable. I also used the same method for my 700 litre kegarator.

http://negergy.com.au/products/freezer-to-fridge-conversion?gclid=CP3cjuXy6LQCFcsipQodpyYAKw


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## bowhunterslodge

if there ok,ill order another,let you know.cheers pat


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## Spiesy

Maheel said:


> plenty throw the stc probe into the fermenter
> 
> or you could make a thermo well out of a bit of plastic tube to cover the probe and wire and drop it in.


$24.60 for a purpose-built stainless thermowel with grommet from BeerBelly, delivered...


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## tricache

Well I WAS doing alright last night, wired up my 12V STC-1000...no problems at all (apart from a flat battery drill and a busted finger from broken plastic) and even a 15min test which it just plugged into a light to make sure it worked without blowing something up (I would rather it fry a lamp than my fridge) worked perfectly. It was only when I had my beer in the fermenter and yeast pitched already did the 12V power supply fail (flash and crack!!!) and I was left with a non fuctional temp controller and a fridge with beer ready to ferment in it.

Lets just say I was not having a fun night since this was at about 9pm. Fridge is now set on the warmest and I hope and pray it sits on something the yeast and work with.

I'm just glad my STC-1000 is fine and my wiring wasn't the problem...just the stupid ebay power supply <_<


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## tim0850

my two stc 1000 builds


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## BenLister

I just ordered one of these also, can you please let me know when you receive yours so that I know rough arrival time? Thanks!


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## tim0850

about 2 weeks on average


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## bowhunterslodge

Amber_Man said:


> I converted my freezer to a fridge, works heaps better now. It doesnt cool as quickly and the temperature stays a lot more stable. I also used the same method for my 700 litre kegarator.
> 
> http://negergy.com.au/products/freezer-to-fridge-conversion?gclid=CP3cjuXy6LQCFcsipQodpyYAKw


so can you set it to sit around 1 or 2 degrees? what setting /temp do you set for your kegs,cheers pat


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## Fergus

If anyone in the albury area needs help setting a temp controller up let me know. I'm new here and to brewing, but I'm a sparky and a fridgey. My setup with an STC-1000 is working a treat. Happy to help out with the hardware for tips on brewing.


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## dicko

tricache said:


> Well I WAS doing alright last night, wired up my 12V STC-1000...no problems at all (apart from a flat battery drill and a busted finger from broken plastic) and even a 15min test which it just plugged into a light to make sure it worked without blowing something up (I would rather it fry a lamp than my fridge) worked perfectly. It was only when I had my beer in the fermenter and yeast pitched already did the 12V power supply fail (flash and crack!!!) and I was left with a non fuctional temp controller and a fridge with beer ready to ferment in it.
> 
> Lets just say I was not having a fun night since this was at about 9pm. Fridge is now set on the warmest and I hope and pray it sits on something the yeast and work with.
> 
> I'm just glad my STC-1000 is fine and my wiring wasn't the problem...just the stupid ebay power supply <_<


If the fridge is getting too cold for fermentation you can get a timer and plug the fridge into it and have it come "on" every so often to just keep the fermenter cool.
You will need a thermometer so you can muck around with the timer until you get it close.
It wont be accurate control but it will get you by until you get another power supply  :icon_cheers:


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## breakbeer

I've been using my stc1000 with my single vessel brew rig for a while now with no problems, until today. Worked perfectly for the whole brew & I unplugged it during the boil as it was no longer required.

I usually then hook it up to my fridge to take care of fermentation. Plugged it in & get the error 'EE' and a long beeeeeeeeeeep

I've checked the instructions & am trying to make sense of the broken english. From what I can tell it says it must have an open sensor or short circuit. I opened her up to check if the wiring was fried but everything looks exactly as it did the day I wired it up.

Anyone else had this problem? How'd ya fix it?


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## labels

TheCarbinator said:


> All jokes aside, I do have a problem with my new STC 1000 though.
> 
> It keeps over cooling and kicks in the heating function (I have a heat pad stuck to the inside of the chesty).
> 
> Yes I do have the probe in a two litre bucket of water.
> 
> No I haven't searched for another thread due to it not working since the upgrade.
> 
> I had it set at 18c with 1 degree tolerance and then I changed the tolerance to 0.3c and it is still doing it.
> 
> The compressor delay is set to 10 mins.
> 
> I have taped the probe to the side of the fermenter tonight with a piece of insulation over it so I will see how that goes.
> 
> My theory is that the freezer is so efficient that the ice on the inside walls continues to cool after the compressor has been switched off.
> 
> I am thinking of installing a fan so that the ice will not form so much and the temp will be more even.
> 
> Opinions???


Leave the probe dangling in the bottom of freezer with a 10 min compressor dealy and TWO degrees differential, you won't have a problem.

The reason for overshoot is it won't turn off until the water bath is at the set temperature, in the meantime you 'air' is way cooler. In my experience with temperature controllers over the last seven years, leaving the probes dangling near the bottom of fidge or freezer works out best.

-=Steve=-


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## Fergus

I have my probe insulated with an old stubby holder I cut up, and taped to the side of the fermenter. I have switches on the stc1000 that allows me to turn off either the heat or the cool outputs. Set at 18ºc with 1º differential. Seems to work a treat. The heat is switched off. Doesn't drop much below 18ºc, gets up to 19º but not a problem. Fridge holds temp well so compressor doesn't work hard.


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## tim0850

breakbeer said:


> I've been using my stc1000 with my single vessel brew rig for a while now with no problems, until today. Worked perfectly for the whole brew & I unplugged it during the boil as it was no longer required.
> 
> I usually then hook it up to my fridge to take care of fermentation. Plugged it in & get the error 'EE' and a long beeeeeeeeeeep
> 
> I've checked the instructions & am trying to make sense of the broken english. From what I can tell it says it must have an open sensor or short circuit. I opened her up to check if the wiring was fried but everything looks exactly as it did the day I wired it up.
> 
> Anyone else had this problem? How'd ya fix it?


stc 1000 makes that noise etc when sensor is not connected. get a multimeter and check that you dont have a broken wire in your sensor


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## breakbeer

Thanks for the reply. I've checked the sensor cable & all seems to be fine. Where the cable meets the probe is very slightly loose, which I've never noticed before, so maybe the problem is inside the probe 

Might be time for a new probe


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## Amber_Man

bowhunterslodge said:


> so can you set it to sit around 1 or 2 degrees? what setting /temp do you set for your kegs,cheers pat


You can set it at any temperature, you just need to play around with the setting until you get it running at the temperature you want. I have a 700 litre westinghouse freezer converted that I am in the process of setting up as my new kegerator and I am running at about 2.0 degrees for my kegs.


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## p2beer

Keg King in Melbourne now sell these in a 10amp model and a 16amp model 
anyone interested should look them up www.kegking.com.au 
reasonably priced not sure on post if your interstate

cheers


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## bowhunterslodge

my two turned up today..


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## Truman42

breakbeer said:


> Thanks for the reply. I've checked the sensor cable & all seems to be fine. Where the cable meets the probe is very slightly loose, which I've never noticed before, so maybe the problem is inside the probe
> 
> Might be time for a new probe


Did you check it with a multimeter like suggested or did you just look at it? A multimter will tell you if there is a broken wire inside that you cant see.


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## breakbeer

Brought it into work today so the sparkies can run a multimeter over it


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## Truman42

breakbeer said:


> Brought it into work today so the sparkies can run a multimeter over it


Was it the probe? if so you can buy them on ebay.


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## breakbeer

Yep, it was the probe. Gonna stop in @ Keg King on my way home & pick up a new one.

edit; old one was the long stainless type


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## verysupple

I know it was a while ago but concerning TheCarbinator's question about overshooting when cooling:

I think someone already mentioned it but I find that if I raise the temp setting by 0.3 C after the vigor of the fermentation reduces it stays about right without too much overshoot - that is, if I'm aiming for 18 C then I raise it to 18.3 and it swings between 18.6 and 17.5. I have my differential set to the min (0.3 C) and have my probe in my wort. At the moment because it is warm I don't have a heating element connected so it warms naturally.


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## ivars

temperence said:


> my two stc 1000 builds


Very nice clean setup. Could you please tell me where you got the power points from? I've been looking and can't find any like these.


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## tim0850

ivars said:


> Very nice clean setup. Could you please tell me where you got the power points from? I've been looking and can't find any like these.


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321058088631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648


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## ivars

temperence said:


> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321058088631?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648


Many thanks


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## Nedasaurus1

temperence said:


> my two stc 1000 builds


job well done


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## Truman42

My STC1000 has failed. It wont switch the fridge off even though the temp is down to - 7C. The heat light is on but it just wont switch the fridge off. Anyone experienced that before?

I have 3 blue and 6 camemberts that are probably now stuffed.


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## verysupple

Truman said:


> My STC1000 has failed. It wont switch the fridge off even though the temp is down to - 7C. The heat light is on but it just wont switch the fridge off. Anyone experienced that before?
> 
> I have 3 blue and 6 camemberts that are probably now stuffed.


This is a bit like the IT response "have you turned it off and on?", but is it possible that your fridge is plugged into the heat side? Someone playing funny buggers on you?


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## stux

Truman said:


> My STC1000 has failed. It wont switch the fridge off even though the temp is down to - 7C. The heat light is on but it just wont switch the fridge off. Anyone experienced that before?
> 
> I have 3 blue and 6 camemberts that are probably now stuffed.


I've had a probe fail before. It happens I guess. 

Good reason to keep two on hand


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## QldKev

Amber_Man said:


> I converted my freezer to a fridge, works heaps better now. It doesnt cool as quickly and the temperature stays a lot more stable. I also used the same method for my 700 litre kegarator.
> 
> http://negergy.com.au/products/freezer-to-fridge-conversion?gclid=CP3cjuXy6LQCFcsipQodpyYAKw



You can get those thermostats a lot cheaper, here is a under $7 one posted

And another if you need an earth pin

I still like the stc-1000, you can see what the temp is, and when you want to dial up 18, you set it to 18 and not take a guess at a setting. But the manual bi-metal ones are good if you use it in a kegerator and set and forget.

QldKev


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## Truman42

verysupple said:


> This is a bit like the IT response "have you turned it off and on?", but is it possible that your fridge is plugged into the heat side? Someone playing funny buggers on you?


No its still pluged into the cold side, been working fine for 2 weeks now. the heat light is on and if i swap it over to the heat plug the fridge comes on, but if I then plug it back into the cold side the fridge still comes on even though its at - 7C.

Its also not the probe. The temperature shown on the display is exactly the same as the temperature on my wireless hygrometer that I have in the fridge.
One thing I forgot to check as I was going out was if I can hear the relay clicking off when the temp is reached.


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## pcmfisher

I had a similar thing happen once.
I just unplugged it took the lid off the box to see if all was well, which it was.
Put the lid back on and plugged it in again and it worked. So I dunno.

Your cheese will be fine.


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## Truman42

> Your cheese will be fine.


Are you speaking from experience here? Or just making me feel good??


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## Truman42

pcmfisher said:


> I had a similar thing happen once.
> I just unplugged it took the lid off the box to see if all was well, which it was.
> Put the lid back on and plugged it in again and it worked. So I dunno.
> 
> Your cheese will be fine.


Tried that when I got home from work and it fixed it. And yes the cheese seems fine. 
Crisis averted. 

Thanks


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## fcmcg

I know it's fixed now but checking your wiring is also a good idea !


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## Truman42

I did that too. Cheers mate.


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## QldKev

Did ya also kick it, always makes me feel better after something stuffs up :lol:


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## Truman42

No but I called it a dirty female who sleeps around. That helped lol


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## Nedasaurus1

Truman said:


> No but I called it a dirty female who sleeps around. That helped lol


 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## pcmfisher

Truman said:


> Are you speaking from experience here? Or just making me feel good??


Well, actually I was also doing camembert when mine went haywire, so you could say its from experience.


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## dicko

Truman said:


> Tried that when I got home from work and it fixed it. And yes the cheese seems fine.
> Crisis averted.
> 
> Thanks


Yes, that reminds me when I used to drive a truck for a bloke with a reasonable sized fleet.

When you reported something wrong with the truck he would park it in the yard next to some good ones and it would "heal up"

True story :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## m3taL

Just finished my stc build, no box just freestanding basic, may box it one day but not too concerned. All cables are furroled as I borrowed the crimpers and furrols from work. Cable tied the cables together and the cable tied that to the unit so they won't pull out or have any pressure on it.

All earths are solder joined.

It lives on the fridge, out of the way and will be basically set & forget.


















Setup the diffence to 1c at the moment just to trial, iv seen some members have it too .3 

Sensor inside a pocket that is a stubby holder cut down and duck taped to the side to insulate it at about the 15l mark.


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## Nedasaurus1

does anyone know if those stc's get hot when placed in a jiffy box? was wondering would i need to drill a few holes for ventilation???


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## Amber Fluid

No need for vent holes Ned... it'll be fine.


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## Mick74

Nedasaurus1 said:


> does anyone know if those stc's get hot when placed in a jiffy box? was wondering would i need to drill a few holes for ventilation???


You don't need vent holes Ned....but if you are anything like me you'll f*#ck it up and end up with extra holes anyway :blink:


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## Nick JD

Nedasaurus1 said:


> does anyone know if those stc's get hot when placed in a jiffy box? was wondering would i need to drill a few holes for ventilation???


Also, the cockoroaches will make it their home.


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## Amber Fluid

m3taL said:


> Just finished my stc build, no box just freestanding basic, may box it one day but not too concerned. All cables are furroled as I borrowed the crimpers and furrols from work. Cable tied the cables together and the cable tied that to the unit so they won't pull out or have any pressure on it.
> 
> All earths are solder joined.
> 
> It lives on the fridge, out of the way and will be basically set & forget.
> 
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> 
> Setup the diffence to 1c at the moment just to trial, iv seen some members have it too .3
> 
> Sensor inside a pocket that is a stubby holder cut down and duck taped to the side to insulate it at about the 15l mark.


 :unsure: Sorry M3tal but I really don't like this setup and not that you really care if I do or don't, I'm just saying for less than $8 you can make 10000% improvement and have piece of mind. :unsure: I never needed insurance for my car until I had an accident :unsure:


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## Nedasaurus1

Muddy Waters said:


> You don't need vent holes Ned....but if you are anything like me you'll f*#ck it up and end up with extra holes anyway :blink:


hahahahahaha i was thinking that exact same thing today lol....


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## browndog

m3taL said:


> Just finished my stc build, no box just freestanding basic, may box it one day but not too concerned. All cables are furroled as I borrowed the crimpers and furrols from work. Cable tied the cables together and the cable tied that to the unit so they won't pull out or have any pressure on it.
> 
> All earths are solder joined.
> 
> It lives on the fridge, out of the way and will be basically set & forget.
> 
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> 
> Setup the diffence to 1c at the moment just to trial, iv seen some members have it too .3
> 
> Sensor inside a pocket that is a stubby holder cut down and duck taped to the side to insulate it at about the 15l mark.


There used to be a bloke called LethalCorpse that would have a bit to say on this build.


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## Cocko

Its only exposed 240v 10a... Surely that cant kill you :blink: 

Seriously, WTF are some people thinking when they are toying with electricity..... **** me.

Even worse to post it and make any new user/readers who find the post think it is ok to do that.

Bad form all round m3taL.

2v.


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## Edgebrew

I agree that it needs to be in a case. I am building one as well. I am adding in a din rail to mount a breaker and cooling side contractor too. I don't really trust the Chinese relays. I'll post pics soon.


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## Nedasaurus1

m3taL said:


> Just finished my stc build, no box just freestanding basic, may box it one day but not too concerned. All cables are furroled as I borrowed the crimpers and furrols from work. Cable tied the cables together and the cable tied that to the unit so they won't pull out or have any pressure on it.
> 
> All earths are solder joined.
> 
> It lives on the fridge, out of the way and will be basically set & forget.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> Setup the diffence to 1c at the moment just to trial, iv seen some members have it too .3
> 
> Sensor inside a pocket that is a stubby holder cut down and duck taped to the side to insulate it at about the 15l mark.


i know absolutely nothing about electricity but i know im not doing that!! the missus (nor I) could sleep at nite if i did that.


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## Nick JD

m3taL said:


> Just finished my stc build, no box just freestanding basic, may box it one day but not too concerned. All cables are furroled as I borrowed the crimpers and furrols from work. Cable tied the cables together and the cable tied that to the unit so they won't pull out or have any pressure on it.
> 
> All earths are solder joined.
> 
> It lives on the fridge, out of the way and will be basically set & forget.
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Setup the diffence to 1c at the moment just to trial, iv seen some members have it too .3
> 
> Sensor inside a pocket that is a stubby holder cut down and duck taped to the side to insulate it at about the 15l mark.


Just because everyone else has annoyingly quoted without removing the photos, I though I'd do it too - just to make this page really, really long.

Personally - I think it's up to the individual to decide what is and what isn't safe for them and theirs. It's the social anarchist in me.


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## Nick JD

m3taL said:


> Just finished my stc build, no box just freestanding basic, may box it one day but not too concerned. All cables are furroled as I borrowed the crimpers and furrols from work. Cable tied the cables together and the cable tied that to the unit so they won't pull out or have any pressure on it.
> 
> All earths are solder joined.
> 
> It lives on the fridge, out of the way and will be basically set & forget.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Setup the diffence to 1c at the moment just to trial, iv seen some members have it too .3
> 
> Sensor inside a pocket that is a stubby holder cut down and duck taped to the side to insulate it at about the 15l mark.


Double post. Ignore.


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## bignath

Nick JD said:


> Personally - I think it's up to the individual to decide what is and what isn't safe for them and theirs.


yeah, but that's assuming the uneducated are capable of making that decision.

People don't injure themselves by deciding they can't do something....they injure themselves because they assume they can.


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## pcmfisher

Nick JD said:


> Personally - I think it's up to the individual to decide what is and what isn't safe for them and theirs. It's the social anarchist in me.


Personally - I think this is almost as ridiculous as posting pictures of a temp controller wrapped in insulation tape. Its just the responsible side of me.


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## dicko

Here is the go Nick :lol:







This would be OK... wouldn't it??


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## Nick JD

M3tal has the right to decide what is, and what is not safe for himself.

The irony is delicious on a website dedicated to making insane amounts of tax-free booze, the clear overconsumption of which will take years off the lives of the forum members and cost the tax payer millions.

But yeah, let's decide what's safe for others', hey?


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## dicko

How dare you speak to a *PRO MEMBER* like that, Nick.


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## QldKev

I hear m3taL also works on power lines


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## Black Devil Dog

Nick JD said:


> M3tal has the right to decide what is, and what is not safe for himself.
> 
> The irony is delicious on a website dedicated to making insane amounts of tax-free booze, the clear overconsumption of which will take years off the lives of the forum members and cost the tax payer millions.
> 
> But yeah, let's decide what's safe for others', hey?



Some of us are all too quick to point out debatable shortcomings of other peoples brewing techniques, but are then happy to let them potentially fry themselves, their family, their visitors and maybe burn down their neighbourhood.

How ironic.


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## benno1973

dicko said:


> Here is the go Nick :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMAG0415.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> This would be OK... wouldn't it??


At least that one's in a box of sorts.


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## Nick JD

Black Devil Dog said:


> Some of us are all too quick to point out debatable shortcomings of other peoples brewing techniques, but are then happy to let them potentially fry themselves, their family, their visitors and maybe burn down their neighbourhood.
> 
> How ironic.


Seeing as I advocate quite possibly the most clandestine brewing method on this forum, I'm gonna guess you are not familiar with the correct meaning of _ironic_.


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## barls

branching in to data cabling as well i hear


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## dicko

Nick JD said:


> Seeing as I advocate quite possibly the most clandestine brewing method on this forum, I'm gonna guess you are not familiar with the correct meaning of _ironic_.


I thought we were talking about a suspected, less than safe electrical fit up, not someone who documented an already well known method for brewing in a bag in a small pot on a stove...

"Insert a big "smilie" emoticon here as I am currently using my IPad and have no access to this function"

Cheers


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## Nick JD

In your kitchen there's a 240V appliance that has completely exposed live wires about 30mm from your fingers.

Email your local MP to complain about the dangers.

M3tal's wiring is correct, and won't cause a fire. Only problem is if a 6'8" child gets on top of his fridge and starts chewing on the chocolate wire. Not ******* likely.

Put it in a jiffy box and the risk is under the rug.

Just get RID OF THAT DAMNED TOASTER!


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## Cube

dicko said:


> I thought we were talking about a suspected, less than safe electrical fit up, not someone who documented an already well known method for brewing in a bag in a small pot on a stove...
> 
> "Insert a big "smilie" emoticon here as I am currently using my IPad and have no access to this function"
> 
> Cheers


http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4976


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## dicko

Hi Cube,
I just tried it on here in a new post and the emoticons didn't work, or at least did not appear on my post, so I deleted it.

It does state in the instructions that the icons may not work or may appear as some other figure.

Cheers


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## Amber Fluid

Nick JD said:


> M3tal's wiring is correct, and won't cause a fire. Only problem is if a 6'8" child gets on top of his fridge and starts chewing on the chocolate wire. Not ******* likely.


Or if a child pulls the cord from the bottom near the power outlet..... you don't need to be tall to get at these! I know, my 2yo pulled mine off the top of the fridge so it can happen and kids do climb on chairs or anything they get to and drag to where they want.

I am bewildered that an Electrical Fitter who is married with 5 young kids seems pretty blasé about it. :blink:


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## Cube

dicko said:


> Hi Cube,
> I just tried it on here in a new post and the emoticons didn't work, or at least did not appear on my post, so I deleted it.
> 
> It does state in the instructions that the icons may not work or may appear as some other figure.
> 
> Cheers


Ok - some websites may ignore them. iMessages, txting etc all work fine. Hit and miss on websites by the sounds of it.


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## MaltyHops

barls said:


> branching in to data cabling as well i hear


Isn't this just someone testing if their spaghetti is cooked "al dente" or not?


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## homebrewkid

dicko said:


> How dare you speak to a *PRO MEMBER* like that, Nick.
> 
> 
> :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


so thats the way its going to be now with this pro thingy hey









im amazed no-one has asked why he didnt spend another $2 to get a lead the dog hasnt chewed on.

cheers: HBK


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## Yob

I'm no plugging my hfat into that thanx..


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## Cocko

Gotta be careful what you plug your hfat's in to aye mate!


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## Yob

After that one time in Thailand when I plugged my hfat into....


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