# Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Clone



## Andrew Coleman (2/1/10)

23 Litre Batch

1.7kg Coopers Pale Ale goo
1.5kg Coopers Liquid Malt Extract
0.4kg Joe White Caramalt (light crystal 60L)
0.15kg Dextrose [just to up alc slightly]

20g Perle Hops Pellets @ 30 Min
30g Cascade Hops Pellets @ 10 Min
50g Cascade Hops Pellets @ Flameout

US-05 Ale Yeasties

IBU around 33
Alc. Content around 5.7%

Haven't actually tried the original beer, just love American style pale ales, and have heard so many great things bout this beerdoff!
Hoping it's reasonably close to the actual thing but not too concerned if it's not EXACT! I have a feeling the late cascade additions and high amount of light crystal malt in the recipie are the most crucial parts of this particular beer!


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## glaab (2/1/10)

looks good to me but you ibu/sg ratoi is a bit low for my taste, it might be a bit sweet. 
38IBU would suit me but I like my ales bitter. I think SNPA is 38IBU IIRC. let us know how it turns out. Cheers


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## Andrew Coleman (2/1/10)

glaab said:


> looks good to me but you ibu/sg ratoi is a bit low for my taste, it might be a bit sweet.
> 38IBU would suit me but I like my ales bitter. I think SNPA is 38IBU IIRC. let us know how it turns out. Cheers



Well this is the original post for an AG version...

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...mp;#entry575026

Hop Schedule (33 IBU)
1/3 oz. - Magnum - 60 min.
1/2 oz. - Perle - 30 min.
1 oz. - Cascade - 10 min.
2 oz. - Cascade - at flameout

I will deffinetly get back on how this recipie worked out though, the dry hopping is insane lol, but i do love my cascade

Got hooked on the stuff from LCPA but this beer looks like a LCPA on roids, very attractive hehe


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## bum (2/1/10)

Glabb's criticisms aside, this looks like about as close as you might get with a K&B. You may not need as much crystal in a K&B version as you might in an AG - the kit would already be finishing a bit higher and too much crystal might make it a bit cloying? The only other thing I'd add would be to consider boiling off the kit flavour/aroma - very much unlike the beer you're trying to replicate. 

I am a little confused though. You say the dry hopping is insane but your recipe doesn't show any. What are you thinking of adding and for how long?


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## Andrew Coleman (2/1/10)

bum said:


> Glabb's criticisms aside, this looks like about as close as you might get with a K&B. You may not need as much crystal in a K&B version as you might in an AG - the kit would already be finishing a bit higher and too much crystal might make it a bit cloying? The only other thing I'd add would be to consider boiling off the kit flavour/aroma - very much unlike the beer you're trying to replicate.
> 
> I am a little confused though. You say the dry hopping is insane but your recipe doesn't show any. What are you thinking of adding and for how long?



Ohk, how much crystal would people suggest then, maybe drop back to 300g or 250g? And I meant the 50g at flameout, almost dry hopping, would do same thing anyway wouldnt it?
cheers


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## Andrew Coleman (2/1/10)

Also I'm using the pale ale kit because it saves me a bit on bittering hops, i've already got the kit and it has two row pale malt so figgured would be a decent idea using that over just the light malt extract


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## MattC (2/1/10)

Drewcifer said:


> And I meant the 50g at flameout, almost dry hopping, would do same thing anyway wouldnt it?
> cheers



Drewcifer, unfortunately flameout additions are not the same as dry hopping. When you add hops at flameout far less of the nice flavour and aroma compounds are lost compared to if you added them earlier. However there are quite a considerable amount of the aroma compounds that are carried away by the process of fermentation. This is why dry hopping additions should usually be added around the point when primary fermentaion is nearly complete, or when the Krausen begins to fall back into the fermenter. The later the better. I dry hop in the keg with a sanitised stocking and marbles to keep them down a bit.

Hope this helps. Cheers


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## Andrew Coleman (2/1/10)

MattC said:


> Drewcifer, unfortunately flameout additions are not the same as dry hopping. When you add hops at flameout far less of the nice flavour and aroma compounds are lost compared to if you added them earlier. However there are quite a considerable amount of the aroma compounds that are carried away by the process of fermentation. This is why dry hopping additions should usually be added around the point when primary fermentaion is nearly complete, or when the Krausen begins to fall back into the fermenter. The later the better. I dry hop in the keg with a sanitised stocking and marbles to keep them down a bit.
> 
> Hope this helps. Cheers



thanx for the filling in, i didn't know fermentation drove off flavour of the hops, anyhow the clone recipie i'm using is flamout not dry hop so i'll add them at the end of the boil and then quickly cool down the liquid!


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## MattC (2/1/10)

For what its worth, this is a scan of the SNPA clone from the BYO mags 150 clone recipes. Note it has 21g at flameout and 21 g dry hop. If you really want the same aroma, you should give dry hopping a go!!!


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## Andrew Coleman (3/1/10)

MattC said:


> For what its worth, this is a scan of the SNPA clone from the BYO mags 150 clone recipes. Note it has 21g at flameout and 21 g dry hop. If you really want the same aroma, you should give dry hopping a go!!!



Ohk changed recipie to have 25g flameout and 25g dryhop instead of just the 50g at flameout, lukin forward to this one


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## alford_j (3/1/10)

MattC said:


> For what its worth, this is a scan of the SNPA clone from the BYO mags 150 clone recipes. Note it has 21g at flameout and 21 g dry hop. If you really want the same aroma, you should give dry hopping a go!!!



I brewed this with US05. I hit the gravity etc almost exactly. Came out a fair bit too dark, mine had more hop flavour but the balance was maltier than the SNPA I tried which was quite dry and didn't have much aroma. I had them side by side and wondered if the bottle I bought was typical as I was underwhelmed (within used by etc). Not a bad recipe, but similar, not the same.

Alf


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## bum (3/1/10)

If it was lacking in hop aroma then the bottle was not a good example. It is a pretty aromatic beer.


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## Andrew Coleman (5/1/10)

bum said:


> ...the kit would already be finishing a bit higher and too much crystal might make it a bit cloying?



Would 250g or 300g be more accurate amount of crystal rather than 400g?! I don't want to make the beer too sweet so if this is quite a possible issue then what should i drop it back to?! cheers :beerbang:


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## bum (5/1/10)

Hard to say, Drewcifer. It really comes down to personal preference. I guess that in terms of "accuracy" the better regarded SNPA clones have crystal at 4 to 8%. Since you're brewing with extract I'd go on the lighter side of that, personally.


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## glaab (5/1/10)

mate, bump it up to 37-38 IBU and it'll be great. That's the only SNPA recipe I've seen that low and that was an AG recipe, extract needs a couple of extra IBUs anyway. The real stuff is 37. A little too much bittering and it's quaffable, too sweet and I'd be giving it away or making black 'n' tans wit it. Another 5g of Perle @30min gives you 4 more IBU.


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