# Brigalow Kits.



## Jonez (17/4/09)

Hello everyone,
Has anyone had a good experience with the Brigalow kits. I saw they were in special at Coles and picked up two cans (Club Gold) for $2.99 each. I just read the bad reviews about this kit here and was wondering: has anyone had a bit of success with this? I have only done Coopers kits o far.

I am planning to add dex and ldme. Also have some coopers lme i could use... is this going to a be a waste of time/ingredients?

The instructions say their optimum ferm temp is 25 -27 but " it starts better at 30 -32" how extrange is that! 

it says if temp drops under 25C you should use a heater. bizarre! I suppose I could ignore the instructions if I don't use their yeast...am I right?


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## chappo1970 (17/4/09)

Jonez said:


> Hello everyone,
> Has anyone had a good experience with the Brigalow kits. I saw they were in special at Coles and picked up two cans (Club Gold) for $2.99 each. I just read the bad reviews about this kit here and was wondering: has anyone had a bit of success with this? I have only done Coopers kits o far.
> 
> I am planning to add dex and ldme. Also have some coopers lme i could use... is this going to a be a waste of time/ingredients?
> ...


+1 JoneZ
You answered your own questions and I'm sorry but I can't help ya as I never brewed a Briggas. Maybe some other the other lads can chime in with suggestions.

Cheers

Chappo


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## clean brewer (17/4/09)

Jonez said:


> Hello everyone,
> Has anyone had a good experience with the Brigalow kits. I saw they were in special at Coles and picked up two cans (Club Gold) for $2.99 each. I just read the bad reviews about this kit here and was wondering: has anyone had a bit of success with this? I have only done Coopers kits o far.
> 
> I am planning to add dex and ldme. Also have some coopers lme i could use... is this going to a be a waste of time/ingredients?
> ...



Havnt used them, my Stepfather used them about 25 years ago, below average kits I hear, dont use dex.... <_< 

Use all malt, maybe some hops and ferment at 18-20 degrees with Safale US-O5 or similar and you should get an ok beer...

:unsure: CB


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## Bribie G (17/4/09)

Brigalow, did they offer you a set of steak knives with it?

Oh dear. Just to present my position clearly, I ran a home brew shop in the late 1970s and at that time in Queensland Brigalow were the popular home brew tin, in the days before Coopers and Morgans got going. It was a bloody awful brew but would make a bland beer you could get intoxicated on. 

I got back into brewing about a year ago after a 15 year gap and just out of curiosity I tried a Brigalow again. Hasn't changed one little bit. 

My suggestion would be to chuck the pathetic yeast and get a sachet of something reasonable like US-05, obtain a pack of Coopers Brew Enhancer 2 and put in a hop teabag such as Saaz.

Then you should get a marginally drinkable brew. Also forget about that ridiculous temperature range and ferment below 20 degrees. This mob should be run out of town with flaming torches and pitchforks, they are giving home brew a really really bad name. 

Sue me.
:icon_cheers:


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## manticle (17/4/09)

I made a couple of brigalow ciders as straight kk a while ago. Turned out ok but very bland. Made a brigalow kk ginger beer that was ok especially when mixed with rum. I wouldn't be in a hurry to grab either again now that I know what else is possible with homebrewing. However $2 is hard to turn away from and I'd be inclined to experiment if I were in the same boat.

If you want to turn them into something decent, boil a kit for 10 -30 mins to remove the brigalow attempt at hop flavouring. You should end up with a bittered malt extract. Add your coopers liquid, 1 kg of dried malt extract, a good yeast, and some flavouring and aroma hops (at various points between the first part of the boil and the end part). You should get a well drinkable beer resulting from that, provided you ferment it properly. 

Don't heat it up.


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## Jonez (17/4/09)

BribieG said:


> Brigalow, did they offer you a set of steak knives with it?
> 
> Oh dear. Just to present my position clearly, I ran a home brew shop in the late 1970s and at that time in Queensland Brigalow were the popular home brew tin, in the days before Coopers and Morgans got going. It was a bloody awful brew but would make a bland beer you could get intoxicated on.
> 
> ...




I see I am in real trouble..
I do have ldme and liquid malt (both coopers) also got some cluster and zaas hops on my fridge(I was thinking cluster as zaas seems to be a better thing for lagers). Will need to get some yeast..( have some coopers which I though I could use/get rid off)

The reason I bought the cans is because they were very cheap and I though: why not finding out what they are like?


edit:
i did not get the set of knives.. I must have been late. 
cheers


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## Bribie G (17/4/09)

Actually the Coopers kit yeast would be a quantum leap over the Brigalow, and by all means use it but keep it below 20 and you should get a reasonable kit beer with the added hops and malts. Cluster (the hop of XXXX) should also work very nicely. :icon_cheers:


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## Jonez (17/4/09)

manticle said:


> I made a couple of brigalow ciders as straight kk a while ago. Turned out ok but very bland. Made a brigalow kk ginger beer that was ok especially when mixed with rum. I wouldn't be in a hurry to grab either again now that I know what else is possible with homebrewing. However $2 is hard to turn away from and I'd be inclined to experiment if I were in the same boat.
> 
> If you want to turn them into something decent, boil a kit for 10 -30 mins to remove the brigalow attempt at hop flavouring. You should end up with a bittered malt extract. Add your coopers liquid, 1 kg of dried malt extract, a good yeast, and some flavouring and aroma hops (at various points between the first part of the boil and the end part). You should get a well drinkable beer resulting from that, provided you ferment it properly.
> 
> Don't heat it up.



Thanks mate!


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## Jonez (17/4/09)

BribieG said:


> Actually the Coopers kit yeast would be a quantum leap over the Brigalow, and by all means use it but keep it below 20 and you should get a reasonable kit beer with the added hops and malts. Cluster (the hop of XXXX) should also work very nicely. :icon_cheers:



I must add: I have the brigalow yest pack in my hands now and it says it has been imported from Europe.


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## mwd (17/4/09)

Used a Brigalow New with Coopers Sparkling Toucan with US-05 turned out nice.

Could be useful for making up toucans.


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## manticle (17/4/09)

Jonez said:


> I must add: I have the brigalow yest pack in my hands now and it says it has been imported from Europe.



Not sure that means a hell of a lot besides the possibility has less of a shelf life.

ABBA were imported from Europe.


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## microbe (18/4/09)

Tropical_Brews said:


> Used a Brigalow New with Coopers Sparkling Toucan with US-05 turned out nice.
> 
> Could be useful for making up toucans.


I'd second using them in toucans.

Cheers,

microbe


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## Weizguy (18/4/09)

Brigalow kits, IIRC, were a major cause of homebrewers giving up after their first brew.

May have improved, but most likely not, by all feedback.

Cheap enough, and they will get U hammered if U drink enough...but is it what you really want?  

Les out


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## Mr.Moonshine (18/4/09)

Did a toucan brigalow apple cider a few months back with some lactose and pear juice, turned out to be a fairly nice drop after a while.
Can't say I've tried the brigalow, but around my area coopers cans are only a few dollars more and from what I hear lightyears ahead in terms of quality. For less than $5 a pop though, I'd be considering a toucan (If you've got decent yeast and some steepable grain).


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## HoppingMad (19/4/09)

+1 Agree with Manticle and others, the Brigalow Cider and Ginger can come up well if done right. 

+1 with Tropical and others, the Brigalow beer kits are really only good as Two Canners, I used to find them quite watery and thin (mind you last one I fermented would have been in 1994!) - you really need two or to stick one with a more flavoursome coopers can of goo.

Hopper.


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## Bizier (19/4/09)

When I started brewing I got both a coopers and a brigalow starter kit (in hindsight a waste of money, did it on a whim). I did a toucan of both the coopers lager and brigalow lager that came in the boxes... has to be the worst beer I have brewed that wasn't infected.

I want to know how much malt are in the tins, they are smaller for one, less viscous and taste sugary rather than malty.

I would treat the can as if it were a sugar addition to a brew. It is amazing that they are still in business after so many years of preaching ingorant technique.


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## manticle (21/4/09)

Bizier said:


> When I started brewing I got both a coopers and a brigalow starter kit (in hindsight a waste of money, did it on a whim). I did a toucan of both the coopers lager and brigalow lager that came in the boxes... has to be the worst beer I have brewed that wasn't infected.
> 
> I want to know how much malt are in the tins, they are smaller for one, less viscous and taste sugary rather than malty.
> 
> I would treat the can as if it were a sugar addition to a brew. It is amazing that they are still in business after so many years of preaching ingorant technique.



Don't even get me started on their hydrometers. At one point I thought 1.040 was the upper limit.

Thank god I broke mine and joined this forum (both incidents were connected).


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## Bribie G (22/4/09)

That extra malt and the hops should hit the spot. Main criticism of Brigalow is not that it has off flavours, just has NO flavours so overlaying it with a bit of flavour it should make a drinkable beer. Plus the better yeast of course.


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## Jonez (23/4/09)

I made a mistake in this post but don't seem to be able to edit it. The amount in grams of dextrose I used is 470 not 370



Jonez said:


> Made the brew last Sat anyway.
> Used all the leftovers I had around:
> 1 (1.7kg) can Brigalow (gold club)
> 260 g Coopers LDME
> ...




I took a sample last night and it was very cloudy, a bit watery(not looking good) and the gravity was still 1.012 (down from 1.039). The temp was under 20C and the activity seemed to be very slow if any. I decided not to replace the frozen PET bottles in the fermenter bath and the activity seems to be picking up. 

The bloody strip thermometer still reads 20C since last night. I don't think mine works well. The other day, while waiting for temp to drop to pitch I realised there were tow reading (six colours showing). Above the bath water level there was a reading (three colours with the one in the middle showing whatever number above 30C) and below the water level there was another (same three colours with the middle one showing 26C I think it was). It may be better to stick the strip horizontally instead of vertically. I think I've seem someone here has done that.


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## Jonez (24/4/09)

Here I am after two consistent readings at 1.010 wondering if I should wait a bit more. The temp has been under 20 (coppers yeast instructions say 21-27) and I am wondering if the yeast has gone dormant. I was expecting a lower FG. You all guys say this brand can get you pissed, which I understand as being highly fermentable = more alcohol = lower FG. I did add some malt which won't ferment completely but also added DEX and sugar. OG was about 1.038 to -39

Tonight's sample tasted a bit better...drinkable, not bad. I don't seem to taste sweet on it but I may be wrong.

What do you guys think is happening here...according to formula I should have (38-10)/7.46 = 3.7 % before bottling. Is this an expected number given the ingredients I used?

Cheers,


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## chappo1970 (24/4/09)

I reckon your about done. Give it another 24hrs it won't hurt then if the same result start washing up bottles. Remember yeasts are natural breathing organism. They can't read instructions or follow computer programs they do their own thing when they want how they want. Sometimes as expected sometimes not.


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## Jonez (24/4/09)

Chappo said:


> ... if the same result start washing up bottles...



The bottles!! that's right!.. I had forgotten about them!... I was planing to transfer to a second fermenter (bucket) tonight and chill in the fridge. Just before doing it (after all the cleaning) I realised the tap was leaking. No transfers then.


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## chappo1970 (24/4/09)

At least you remembered the tap... I once gave the brewery floor a free drink due to racking to a fermenter which didn't have a tap... Drunk_Chappo's fault (loser <_< ).


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## Jonez (24/4/09)

Chappo said:


> At least you remembered the tap... I once gave the brewery floor a free drink due to racking to a fermenter which didn't have a tap... Drunk_Chappo's fault (loser <_< ).



That would have been heart breaking,, how many litres?


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## Matplat (16/1/15)

Morning all,

I'm resurrecting an old thread rather than starting a new one as I have some related questions.

I am about to start my first brew using the brew kit my dear wife bought me for christmas, which happens to be a brigalow 'lager' can.

I have been reading up on John Palmers website, and his instructions conflict fairly wildly with those on the side of the brew can, and it seems from the previous posts in this thread that everyone on here agrees with Mr Palmer!

So, as this is a 'lager' brew, should I be aiming for a ferment temp aroung 15°? I get the feeling that this brigalow kit won't be a lager in the true sense of the term, so perhaps 20° is sufficient? I will be using an esky as my cooling medium so i'm not too optimistic about being able to achieve consistently low-low temps as the ambient temp in Dalby is 30-35 at the moment.

What hop additions would you all recommend? I have literally no idea which to choose apart from the whether its a bittering or finishing hop!

I don't expect to produce the perfect drop first time round, but it would be nice to at least have 23l of something palatable!

I humbly await your learned opinions 

Cheers, Matt


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## Grott (16/1/15)

Hi Matt, Sorry to say but if your not able to control your fermentation temperatures I'd leave the lager until you can or until the colder winter months. Lager is not forgiving with "off flavours" with poor brewing temps. (why homebrew kit Companies provide a lager with their kits is beyond me when most kit purchases are bought by people just starting out). Personally look at the Coopers home brew cans and start with what you like other than lager. Follow Palmer's advice and this forum, lots of top help/information. 
Enjoy your brewing, ask questions and enjoy. Cheers


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## Matplat (16/1/15)

Okey doke, thanks grott.

I'm keen to get something going this weekend, so i'l just have to see what else Woolies has on the shelf....

I am yet to experiment with exactly what temperature I can achieve with a few freezer blocks... but I guess I'l leave the lager for now... or maybe not even bother with it at all if it is as bad as people say it is.

Cheers, Matt


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## stux (16/1/15)

Ferment the "lager" as an ale. The goo won't know the difference. 

Add 1kg of dried malt extract (DME)

Saaz hops are the traditional Pilsner/lager hop
Pride of ring wood is the traditional Aussie lager hop
Cluster = xxxx
Fuggles and east kent goldings = English beer
Hallertau is a traditional German hop

Grab a packet of us05 from your lhbs, ferment as cold as you can manage, but above 16C. I target 18C personally. 

Hop as per this thread


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## wynnum1 (16/1/15)

How big is the esky have a chest freezer and can get to 15° air temperature with a 5 liter and 3 liter plastic ice bottles .


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## Feldon (16/1/15)

grott said:


> Hi Matt, Sorry to say but if your not able to control your fermentation temperatures I'd leave the lager until you can or until the colder winter months. Lager is not forgiving with "off flavours" with poor brewing temps. (why homebrew kit Companies provide a lager with their kits is beyond me when most kit purchases are bought by people just starting out). Personally look at the Coopers home brew cans and start with what you like other than lager. Follow Palmer's advice and this forum, lots of top help/information.
> Enjoy your brewing, ask questions and enjoy. Cheers


The lager kit comes with an ale yeast, not a lower temp lager yeast.

Companies usually include lager with their starter kits because most people come to homebrewing from years of drinking tasteless commercial megaswill. Robust malty and hoppy flavours in their first homebrew will probably turn a lot of new brewers off. The supplied lager is meant to meet the customer's pre-existing expectations.


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## Matplat (16/1/15)

My esky is 68l, it fits the fermenter almost perfectly with a bit of space on top for an ice block, so maybe I will be able to go low enough...

Either way, I think I need to start with something simpler, just to get my head around the whole process, and then add from there.

Looking through the recipes on the coopers DIY website, there looks to be some tasty brew to be made without too much fuss, provided you have a good starting point (which I seemingly don't at the moment!)

Thanks for all your input.


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## squirt in the turns (16/1/15)

Feldon said:


> The lager kit comes with an ale yeast, not a lower temp lager yeast.
> 
> Companies usually include lager with their starter kits because most people come to homebrewing from years of drinking tasteless commercial megaswill. Robust malty and hoppy flavours in their first homebrew will probably turn a lot of new brewers off. The supplied lager is meant to meet the customer's pre-existing expectations.


The decision making process that leads the kit manufacturers to think including a "lager" can is good idea is beyond my understanding. Probably the marketing department have something to do with it. It makes sense, I suppose, for the purpose of selling as many starter kits as possible, but the fact that it's basically impossible to make anything remotely like your favourite megaswill using the supplied yeast and instructions means they're unlikely to win themselves any repeat customers. Maybe it doesn't matter as the majority of them are probably fathers' day and Christmas presents that end up unused, gathering dust in a cupboard.


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## Grott (17/1/15)

Matplat said:


> My esky is 68l, it fits the fermenter almost perfectly with a bit of space on top for an ice block, so maybe I will be able to go low enough...


This should work fine, have a look at the topic on "Fermenter temperature control" to give you some ideas and encouragement.
Cheers


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## Nizmoose (17/1/15)

squirt in the turns said:


> The decision making process that leads the kit manufacturers to think including a "lager" can is good idea is beyond my understanding. Probably the marketing department have something to do with it. It makes sense, I suppose, for the purpose of selling as many starter kits as possible, but the fact that it's basically impossible to make anything remotely like your favourite megaswill using the supplied yeast and instructions means they're unlikely to win themselves any repeat customers. Maybe it doesn't matter as the majority of them are probably fathers' day and Christmas presents that end up unused, gathering dust in a cupboard.


Totally agree, I think coopers is on the right track, homebrewing is perfect for making a cloudy sedimented pale ale somewhat like a coopers and I think people starting with a Coopers Pale Ale kit hoping for a Coopers Pale Ale would be a LOT less disappointed with the results.


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## panzerd18 (17/1/15)

In terms of ranking between Coopers, Morgan's and Brigalow kits, who would you rank best to worst?


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## Nizmoose (17/1/15)

panzerd18 said:


> In terms of ranking between Coopers, Morgan's and Brigalow kits, who would you rank best to worst?


Coopers all the way with insanely large bias because I'm south Australian, but still, coopers.


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## Matplat (18/1/15)

Nizmoose said:


> Totally agree, I think coopers is on the right track, homebrewing is perfect for making a cloudy sedimented pale ale somewhat like a coopers and I think people starting with a Coopers Pale Ale kit hoping for a Coopers Pale Ale would be a LOT less disappointed with the results.


Funny you should say that, I went out yesterday and bought a pale ale kit!

I'm going to do it in the complete 'newbie' fashion, without boiling the wort just to keep it simple first time round.


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## Nizmoose (18/1/15)

Matplat said:


> Funny you should say that, I went out yesterday and bought a pale ale kit!
> 
> I'm going to do it in the complete 'newbie' fashion, without boiling the wort just to keep it simple first time round.


Good to keep it simple the first time  if you are able to keep fermentation at 18-20C you should definitely make a drinkable beer  my first beer was great and used a 5 minute boil and some grain, a great next step, if you'd like me to pm you the recipe and methods let me know


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## wynnum1 (21/1/15)

Coopers website has free shipping orders over $100 .


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## ASYLUM_SPIRIT (21/1/15)

Anyone used the brigalow Cup airlocks, by any chance?


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## Mattrox (22/1/15)

ASYLUM_SPIRIT said:


> Anyone used the brigalow Cup airlocks, by any chance?


I have one on a Bunnings water drum. Works great.


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## stux (22/1/15)

ASYLUM_SPIRIT said:


> Anyone used the brigalow Cup airlocks, by any chance?


Wasn't sure what a briglow cup airlock was...

...google...





Looks like a standard "2 piece airlock"

Love em. Very easy to clean, and when you're taking sample, or draining your fermenter, you just remove the top piece to break the airlock.

I tried a 3 piece airlock too. Its much much harder to remove the top piece.

Only problem with the 2 piece airlocks is its very easy to crack the plastic if you're not careful.

I use them in a bung... means I can remove the bung to add hops etc. Or I can remove the airlock and put a blow-off tube in if its going to be a krausen monster


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