# Coopers Australian Pale Ale



## reardo (20/4/11)

So, Ive finished (or almost, maybe another day) fermenting my Coopers Australian Pale Ale. A total of 20 litres is in the wort, and I will keg 19 tl of it. The basic kit ingredients was what I used. What I would like to know is;



1. How can I make it a better tasting brew from as it sits now? Which leads into question 2



2.Would it be worth secondary fermenting? Also, how do you secondary ferment? Is it just transferring from one fermenter to the other then adding another yeast sachet?



Any help is much appreciated.


Reardo.


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

Ok guys. I have just read this topic http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry765548 

So it seems secondary fermenting isn't worth it anyhow.

Sweet


----------



## seemax (20/4/11)

The key ingredient is the yeast. You can culture some from the bottles - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=17276

The kit is ok, needs some malt extract as well as sugar to help it along. 

Primary is fine, leave it in there for 2 weeks around 18-20C... check gravity... if ok then keg it.


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I (20/4/11)

For Kit & Kilo:

Yeast - either decent from a HBS, or culture from a bottle
Grains (or extract if grains too hard at the time) - extra malt and flavour in the beer.
Hops - add extra flavour and aroma (or bitterness) depending on the length boil. Word of caution - Kit beer is already hopped, so be aware of bittering levels.

Once you get K&K downpat, you may choose to move onto extract brewing (where the goo is unhopped), or straight onto AG (if you are satisfied you've got the grain thing downpat).

Goomba


----------



## petesbrew (20/4/11)

I assume you used sugar & kit yeast?
Here's some really basic tips which should help.

1.replace that with BE1, BE2 or Light Malt Extract (LME). (worst to best)
2. look in the articles section - click in kit n kilo, and look up steeping grains.
3. look into using hops. You could go either two ways, British - goldings/fuggles, or American - cascade/amarillo.
4. yeast - go for S-04 for English ale, or S-05 for American Ale.

5. yep, really basic tips, but as you're a beginner, I just kept it simple.


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I (20/4/11)

petesbrew said:


> <snip>
> 
> 3. look into using hops. You could go either two ways, British - goldings/fuggles, or American - cascade/amarillo.



4 ways - British, American, Noble (generally German) - Saaz, Hersbrucker, Tettnang or NZ - Nelson Sauvin, Riwaka, Motueka, Pacific Hallertauer.

I personally would have a crack at the pale ale and either late boil some Nelson Sauvin and dry hop with Riwaka, or alternatively dry hop with a truck load of Saaz, depending on the brewer's individual tastes.

And pete is right, get rid of sugar - it's as important as decent yeast (and I suspect the two are included in instructions for the same reason).

With yeast - look at the ideal temp range and brew in that - no yeast (except Belgian Saison, but that's another story) should be brewed above 24 degrees - ever! Temp control is extremely important because your yeast is what turns wort into beer, so it needs a gentle touch and consistent conditions.

Goomba


----------



## manticle (20/4/11)

Make that 5 ways. It is originally an Australian beer you unpatriotic bastards.

Pride of ringwood, judiciously used will push the original coopers flavour, especially in conjunction with the real coopers yeast.


----------



## haysie (20/4/11)

Question1... Patience grasshopper
Question2... I see you answered that yourself

Good luck with the brew.


----------



## J Grimmer (20/4/11)

give the above a go i would try one at a time, ie BE to LME or dry hopping, adding steeped grains, to get an understanding of how each will change the beer and take haysies advice, patience.

Jan.


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I (20/4/11)

manticle said:


> Make that 5 ways. It is originally an Australian beer you unpatriotic bastards.
> 
> Pride of ringwood, judiciously used will push the original coopers flavour, especially in conjunction with the real coopers yeast.



Isn't it already pre hopped with POR?

Either way, I'd rather it go to bro-town. Coopers Pale Ale is very much a beer that breaks all the rules that Aussies generally like to set for bog-standard beer (clear, yellow, little aroma, no yeast in bottle, boring), so doing something very Aussie with it, kind of seems like the antithesis of what coopers were achieving. 

Goomba


----------



## petesbrew (20/4/11)

manticle said:


> Make that 5 ways. It is originally an Australian beer you unpatriotic bastards.
> 
> Pride of ringwood, judiciously used will push the original coopers flavour, especially in conjunction with the real coopers yeast.


I still haven't used Pride of ringwood. [holding my head in shame]
One of the Hills brewers has made an impressive Australian IPA with coopers yeast & POR throughout. Very nice.


----------



## manticle (20/4/11)

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> Isn't it already pre hopped with POR?
> 
> Either way, I'd rather it go to bro-town. Coopers Pale Ale is very much a beer that breaks all the rules that Aussies generally like to set for bog-standard beer (clear, yellow, little aroma, no yeast in bottle, boring), so doing something very Aussie with it, kind of seems like the antithesis of what coopers were achieving.
> 
> Goomba



Coopers is an aussie beer with PoR. The main difference is that it's an ale and bottle conditioned.

The kit is pre-hopped but pretty mildly from memory - some freshening up never hurts.

Main reason I suggest it is because the OP may be looking to make something along the lines of what the kit promises but without the yeast and a touch more PoR, it won't deliver.


----------



## going down a hill (20/4/11)

The last CPA can I did had 1 kg of malt without any hop additions, it came out too sweet and not enough bitterness for my liking. Luckily I have a mate who doesn't mind sweet beers so he got a slab.


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

petesbrew said:


> I assume you used sugar & kit yeast?
> Here's some really basic tips which should help.
> 
> 1.replace that with BE1, BE2 or Light Malt Extract (LME). (worst to best)
> ...



Thanks, but what is BE1 and BE2? Are they types of yeasts. I was on http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/index.php?...amp;&page=2 but could't find anything....

I actually had some armarillo hops that i FORGOT to add! Stupid me, but i'll use it in the next brew.


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

seemax said:


> The key ingredient is the yeast. You can culture some from the bottles - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=17276
> 
> The kit is ok, needs some malt extract as well as sugar to help it along.
> 
> Primary is fine, leave it in there for 2 weeks around 18-20C... check gravity... if ok then keg it.




Thanks seemax. If i take off the lid and check the gravity, will that ruin the brew if the yeast is still working??


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I (20/4/11)

reardo said:


> Thanks, but what is BE1 and BE2? Are they types of yeasts. I was on http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/index.php?...amp;&page=2 but could't find anything....
> 
> I actually had some armarillo hops that i FORGOT to add! Stupid me, but i'll use it in the next brew.



Brew Enhancer - they are both different mixtures of dry (powdered) malts and dextrose.

Goomba


----------



## Amber Fluid (20/4/11)

reardo said:


> Thanks seemax. If i take off the lid and check the gravity, will that ruin the brew if the yeast is still working??




Oh dear..... Don't take the lid off to check the gravity!

Run a sample off and drink it.... then run another sample into the tube your Hydrometer come in and then test the gravity.

BE1 = Brew Enhancer 1
BE2 = Brew Enhancer 2


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> 4 ways - British, American, Noble (generally German) - Saaz, Hersbrucker, Tettnang or NZ - Nelson Sauvin, Riwaka, Motueka, Pacific Hallertauer.
> 
> I personally would have a crack at the pale ale and either late boil some Nelson Sauvin and dry hop with Riwaka, or alternatively dry hop with a truck load of Saaz, depending on the brewer's individual tastes.
> 
> ...



I actually used the 'cooper brew enhanser no. 2" which i think is part dextrose and malt....??? I have a Kegerator from "KegKing" and have held the temp of 18-21 for the past 10 days. Sounds like it might be ok then


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

Amber Fluid said:


> Oh dear..... Don't take the lid off to check the gravity!
> 
> Run a sample off and drink it.... then run another sample into the tube your Hydrometer come in and then test the gravity.
> 
> ...




Ah, sweet. I did use Brew enhanser 2


----------



## petesbrew (20/4/11)

Here's a list of the abbreviations here. It's annoying to remember, but it saves typing.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...;showarticle=15

Oh man, the amarillo would've been perfect!

Also, another style, I reckon you could even turn this into a belgian pale ale. 
the kit, 1.5kg ldme, 20g styrian goldings (rough guess at amount), and T-58 yeast. Why not?


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

petesbrew said:


> Here's a list of the abbreviations here. It's annoying to remember, but it saves typing.
> 
> http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...;showarticle=15
> 
> ...




Thanks for that info - saved that page as favourite!
Will give it a go. Actually, i have a Beermakers Cold, some 1kg of light malt dried extract and those unused armarillo hops. Recon they will work together ok with the T-58 yeast at 18deg?


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I (20/4/11)

reardo said:


> Thanks for that info - saved that page as favourite!
> Will give it a go. Actually, i have a Beermakers Cold, some 1kg of light malt dried extract and those unused armarillo hops. Recon they will work together ok with the T-58 yeast at 18deg?



Sounds good. Let us know how much Amarillo and at what boil times. Unless you want to dry hop, which will be nice at any rate.

Goomba


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> Sounds good. Let us know how much Amarillo and at what boil times. Unless you want to dry hop, which will be nice at any rate.
> 
> Goomba




I have 40gm of armarillo hops. So you suggest to boil for 20-30mins?


----------



## petesbrew (20/4/11)

reardo said:


> Thanks for that info - saved that page as favourite!
> Will give it a go. Actually, i have a Beermakers Cold, some 1kg of light malt dried extract and those unused armarillo hops. Recon they will work together ok with the T-58 yeast at 18deg?


I'd go with S-05 with the amarillo, but it's up to you.


----------



## Lord Raja Goomba I (20/4/11)

reardo said:


> I have 40gm of armarillo hops. So you suggest to boil for 20-30mins?



Given your tin appears to be pre bittered, I'd chuck the 40g in at 15 minutes boil. That way you let the tin do the bulk of the bittering and have a real flavour hit from the amarillo.

Goomba


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

Thanks heaps guys. Will experiment and record as much as possible.
I'm obvoiusly new to this so i appreciate all the feedback you've given.

About to try my stout http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...mp;#entry759765 that has been 'chilling' for for the past 8-9 days. Did a bit of experimenting with that, so will leave feedback once the buds get punished :icon_chickcheers:


----------



## argon (20/4/11)

here you go... do this;


----------



## MaltyHops (20/4/11)

reardo said:


> 1. How can I make it a better tasting brew from as it sits now? Which leads into question 2


Most of the responses seem to be geared towards what to do for reardo's next
brews - but for the brew currently near/at end of primary fermentation, could hops
be added as a very late dry hopping for extra aroma/flavour and left for another
week or so? I realise this might be complicating things a bit but an option none the
less?

T.


----------



## Adam Howard (20/4/11)

I made one that was hugely similar to the real CPA by using the tin, 600g of light dry malt extract, 400g of dextrose, 15g of Pride of Ringwood hops boiled for 20 mins and then fermented with yeast from a 6 pack of stubbies.

I've made another one with a 200g of light crystal malt added for some more body.

Using the Coopers yeast from their bottles is the only real way to get that flavour.


----------



## dougsbrew (20/4/11)

MaltyHops said:


> Most of the responses seem to be geared towards what to do for reardo's next
> brews - but for the brew currently near/at end of primary fermentation, could hops
> be added as a very late dry hopping for extra aroma/flavour and left for another
> week or so? I realise this might be complicating things a bit but an option none the
> ...



+1. yeah i reckon thats a great idea, throw some hops in there and it doesnt have 
to be there for another week or so, 4 days should do it.


----------



## MitchyP (20/4/11)

Just put a CPA down myself about 30 mins ago. Haven't done a brew in about 12 months and have never done a CPA before so wanted to get back on the bike (so to speak).

Coopers CPA tin, BE2, 250g LDM, 15g Amarillo boiled for 15 minutes with 100g of the LDM. Using the cling wrap method for the first time too. Should be no trouble keeping the brew at around 20 degrees in the shed up here in Ceduna.

A bit limited for HB supplies up here so was thinking of dry hopping with maybe 10g of Cluster after 5-6 days just to give it a bit more of a floral, fruity non-HB flavour. I have about 50g Cluster in the fridge. 

This should hold me over until mid-May until I get back to the big smoke to re-stock on supplies.


----------



## reardo (20/4/11)

dougsbrew said:


> +1. yeah i reckon thats a great idea, throw some hops in there and it doesnt have
> to be there for another week or so, 4 days should do it.




Beauty! So if i boil the hops, then add to the wort it should change the flavor? So i assume this should be done after it ferments, and then what, stir it up then let it sit for a few days?


----------



## MaltyHops (20/4/11)

reardo said:


> Beauty! So if i boil the hops, then add to the wort it should change the flavor? So i assume this should be done after it ferments, and then what, stir it up then let it sit for a few days?


Might be a good idea to read through:
* _AHB Wiki: Dry Hopping_
* _AHB Wiki: Dry Hopping, Discussion Topic_
* _Dry Hopping Advice, Seeking feedback from the pro's_
* _Dry Hopping, Grassiness And Cold Conditioning_
just some results from doing _THIS SEARCH_ - note the last one listed looks into
not leaving dry hopped hops for more than 4 days to avoid grassiness.

Also the hop variety you use would be significant I would guess - POR
would accentuate what's already there and other hops? experiment time!

T.


----------



## reardo (5/5/11)

Well guys, i have had the Aussie Pale Ale kegged and chilled for over a week now and i'm proud to say it is the best resulting brew in terms of flavour i'd ever made! Probably throw in the fact i've only ever made 15-20 batches but even my mate 'longlostbelgian' agrees, that it tastes bloody good!

I don't really want to tinker with it, so for the mean time, i will call this my 'session' beer and will experiment with others.

I hear that the 'Coopers Dark Ale' is a nice drop, so i'm thinking that adding some choc malt might be the way to go??? Any suggestions......


----------

