# Finally Doing My 1st Ag



## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Rightio so the HLT is warming up....hopefully all will go ok. I have a little bit more grain than the receipe calls for but will use it all, I figure my effeciency will be down a bit and ball park is good enough for a first attempt.

I'm having a stab at Dr Smurto's Golden ale.

I will update this thread as I go..and post photos tonight if I get a chance.

Fingers are crossed

Pok


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## NickB (10/4/09)

Good luck mate!

Remember - things go wrong, but don't sweat the little issues! Just enjoy yourself!

Cheers!


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Filling Mash tun ready for mash in


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## crundle (10/4/09)

Good luck with the brew, don't sweat it, it will work out a treat. Dr Smurto's Golden Ale is fairly forgiving of little things like missing gravities and volumes and hop schedules.....

The hardest part is waiting for it to ferment, then condition. You wont look back!

Crundle


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Mash in done. Missed target temp by 1 deg (damn)...now to wait 90 minutes






My damn mash tun thermometer sits just under the top of the mash (14ltrs water + 5kg grain)....O well lucky I have a normal thermometer and the tun will be perfect for double batches!!

Question: As the temp of the mash will fall during the 90 mins should I add hot water from time to time to keep the mash temp up at my mash temp of 66 deg?? And then subtract the volume added from any water addition needed in the boil??


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## FNQ Bunyip (10/4/09)

Well Congratulations Pok ,,, Wow and this has only taken App 450 Threds and 1350 posts , well done and about bloody time ...


Cheers , I'm off to the tap for a dag ale .. Too raise in your honor..


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

FNQ Bunyip said:


> Well Congratulations Pok ,,, Wow and this has only taken App 450 Threds and 1350 posts , well done and about bloody time ...
> 
> 
> Cheers , I'm off to the tap for a dag ale .. Too raise in your honor..



More like 1720 posts...well 1721 now  and was oct 07 when I started building this thing so has only taken 18 months to get going ....damn time flys!!! :blink:


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## crundle (10/4/09)

Is it a 3 vessel system you have there, I can't make it out from the photos. Depends on what you are using to mash in I guess. If you are using a stainless steel vessel, like an urn to mash in, then unless it is wrapped up to insulate it, you need to either add more hot water to bring up the temp or you need to add heat.

If it is an esky type vessel, then you should only lose around 1-2 degrees over the time, and may not need to do anything.

A bit of heat loss wont kill it, but I guess the ideal is for the temp to stay up as close to the target as possible. Given that it is happening now, you may want to add some more hot water maybe half way through the mash to compensate, maybe aim to have it a touch higher than the target to allow for the loss that will occur.

Hope this is of help, but not really sure of your setup to be more specific.

Crundle


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Thanks crundle,

You are on the money, is a 3 vessel system, and the tun is a drink cooler (ss skin esky basically) 

I can really only see a loss in mash temp due to the head space in the tun (as seen in the photo above), i have put a towel over this to try and slow it down. I will keep an eye on the temp and see what I can do.

Mash is about half way through its 90 mins and has dropped in temp by approx 1.5 deg. This could have been due to the temp of the head space however.

If I want to bring the mash temp back up should I add boiling water out of kitchen kettle? Considering there is 14L of water and 5kg grain in the tun how much boiling water would I need to add to increase the temp by 1 deg??


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## crundle (10/4/09)

Beersmith is telling me that if you have 14 litres of water and 5kg of grain, and it is at 60 degrees, you will need to add 2.8 litres of boiling water to bring it up to 67 degrees.

You can reduce loss in the headspace by making up a polystyrene circle to fit in there (not today probably though) and have a couple of holes in it to run string through to be able to pull it out again. you can try wrapping the tun in a blanket or doonah (or both) in the meantime to help reduce temperature loss.

good luck,

Crundle


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

crundle said:


> Beersmith is telling me that if you have 14 litres of water and 5kg of grain, and it is at 60 degrees, you will need to add 2.8 litres of boiling water to bring it up to 67 degrees.
> 
> You can reduce loss in the headspace by making up a polystyrene circle to fit in there (not today probably though) and have a couple of holes in it to run string through to be able to pull it out again. you can try wrapping the tun in a blanket or doonah (or both) in the meantime to help reduce temperature loss.
> 
> ...



The polystyrene circle idea went through my head last night actually....I will get my hands on some for next time. In the mean time for this batch it will be good to see what loss occurs

Thanks for the water addition calculation aswell. I will have to have a look at beersmith myself and find out how to work it out.

EDIT: found the water addition calculator in beersmith....man that program is cool ....and now I have parallels on my mac so I can run both windoze and mac at the same time so no need to use just windoze to open beersmith


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## lobo (10/4/09)

good work pok, and like the others say, dont stress. if it drops, it drops. most of the conversion is apparently done in the 1st 15mins anyway. imo it would be more important to heat the mash up to 75 to sparge, as it will help rinse the sugars easier. dont sweat the little things, its too late now your brewing. im sure u will taill make a great beer. and just recort all your stats so next time you can tweak them. ie, insulate that mash tun so it dosnt drop temp.

Lobo


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## crundle (10/4/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> ....and now I have parallels on my mac so I can run both windoze and mac at the same time so no need to use just windoze to open beersmith



Yep, run it in linux here, so no need to use windoze at all. Will be nice if Beersmith goes platform independent one day.

My first effort at Dr Smurto's Golden Ale was under expected efficiency and the gravities were lower, but still came out as a fantastic beer, and I thought it was good for my first ever AG. I am sure with your setup you will be just as happy.

Crundle


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Is mash out temp cruicial???

I have added my boiling water for my mash out however the temp hasn't made the target of 78 deg...it is currently at 75 deg.

Should I add more to bring the mash out temp up or not? I am a bit hesitant to do this as beersmith calls for an extra 3 litres....any suggestions? Should I just leave it and get on with it or top it up and then drain?

EDIT - I decided not to worry about it. Draining tun now...


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## eric8 (10/4/09)

WWAAAYYYHHHAAAYYYY!!!!
Nice work Pok, I bet that 18 months has been worth it. You must into the boil now, hows it smelling?? Well done mate, I will have a beer or 2 for the celebrations! :beer:


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

eric8 said:


> WWAAAYYYHHHAAAYYYY!!!!
> Nice work Pok, I bet that 18 months has been worth it. You must into the boil now, hows it smelling?? Well done mate, I will have a beer or 2 for the celebrations! :beer:



Still draining the tun at the moment.. looks and smells good so far


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## eric8 (10/4/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> Still draining the tun at the moment.. looks and smells good so far


Wait till you start adding those hops, then it's really going to start smelling great!!


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Tun drained and in kettle, kettle now turned of and heating up.

Missed target Pre boil gravity. Target 1043, got 1040, not too bad I guess. 

Will be interesting to see how long my kettle takes to get to a boil (start temp 53 deg)


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## NickB (10/4/09)

3 points is nothing to worry about. Most likely that your measurements will be out a bit anyway being your first brew and all... Sure you'll find you've pissed it in efficiency wise at the end of the brew! Not as hard as most people think is it?!?!? 

Oh, and get yourself a copy of Beer Alchemy for OS X... I've used Beersmith and Pro Mash, but find Beer Alchemy to be much nicer to use, as well as being a hell of a lot less complicated  Free trial at www.kentplacesoftware.com

Cheers


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Here are some photos for an update while I wait for the boil to start to boil 

Running off the tun - I drained into a fermenter as it has measurements on the side so I could easily measure volumes and then tip into kettle



Grain bed after draining before sparge



Grain bed After sparge and drain



1st runnings of mash



I couldn't help myself...a golden ale while making golden ale


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Damn kettle is taking awhile to get to a boil....30 mins so far 

How long do others electric setups take to get approx 27L to boil from 55 deg??

Edit: still not boiling after 45mins  has got to about 94 deg so far


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## NickB (10/4/09)

Not sure, my gas takes approx 20-30 mins to bring 30-33L up from 60 - boil.

Cheers

PS: Looks like my pre-boil on the Porter today hit 1.062 (WTF!!!!!)

EDIT: Just remembered I may not have stirred the kettle before taking the sample.... the 118% Efficiency Beer Alchemy is reporting confirms my suspicion!


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

NickB said:


> Not sure, my gas takes approx 20-30 mins to bring 30-33L up from 60 - boil.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> PS: Looks like my pre-boil on the Porter today hit 1.062 (WTF!!!!!)



Bloody electric setup.....Maybe I should get a burner instead ... hmmm


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## Fourstar (10/4/09)

NickB said:


> Not sure, my gas takes approx 20-30 mins to bring 30-33L up from 60 - boil.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> PS: Looks like my pre-boil on the Porter today hit 1.062 (WTF!!!!!)



+1 for boil time after sparge

my effieciencies have been all over the shop recently (brewhouse). gone from my standard 65, to a 71, 75 and a 88%

the 88 for brewhouse was for a mild! Looks like a 23L batch could be turned into two 17L batches!

I had preboil of 83% efficiency into the kettle today. and deliberatly underboiled (as i collected too much) and left some in the kettle to drop it back to 74% for brewhouse... i usually concsistently get 65% ers.

I wonder if its the crush ive got recently, the LHBS mill has crapped itself so he crushed it very slowly, possibly double.. maybe the is some extra conversion is playing a part or me using brewing salts to adjust water?!? i wouldnt know because ive started both basically at the same time. The next batch i get i will have a chat to see if anyone else has noticed anything with the crush and efficiency.


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## NickB (10/4/09)

see my edit re: my supposed efficiency...I will however update the figures once I've finished chilling....

Cheers

PS: Burnt my arm today, bloody hurts. Added a recirc valve to the kettle so I can sit and read AHB/drink while my wort chills, but forgot and leaned against the pump at the end of the boil...blisters ******* hurt!!!!


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## raven19 (10/4/09)

Well done Pok, nice work on pretty much hitting your effieciencies.

3 points in nothing to be worried about...
:icon_offtopic: our second AG today, we lifted our efficiency from 70 to 73, and that was with a stepped mash wheat beer. Next time I'm going a single mash temp for ease of brewing, with the issues we had this morning, we started at 8.30am, finished at 2.30.... 6 hours was a huge slog (for 60L).

Back OT - Dr S's GA is a very forgiving beer, of which was our cherry popper too!

Now you can get stuck into your second AG! :icon_cheers:


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## NickB (10/4/09)

Raven, 6 hours is nothing, HTFU! When you've done a triple decoction and want your 10 hours back, let me know.... h34r:














Cheers!


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

When boiling should it be a good constant rumble? My kettle seems to be having a hard time making a "rumble"...its boiling none the less and 1st hop add is in but not nice a vigerously like I would like it.

I guess I have 60 mins to see how it goes and if it doesnt get any better than I know the element is not strong enough to do what I want to do...especially if I want to do double batches.

EDIT: how ironic, while typing that post the boil started to rumble...looks good now  Shame it took nearly 1 hr 20 mins to get there. Thats craziness


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

YAY boil complete. Now time to put into no-chill vessel (which is a blue willow jerrycan)


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## flattop (10/4/09)

It took a good hour to get my 35 odd litres from 66* to boil with the crown urn...


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## Steve (10/4/09)

Onya Pok - took yer bloody time.

I reckon after a couple you'll be going straight into the kettle instead of the fermenter. Get that hopsock further into the boil too.

Cheers
Steve


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## clean brewer (10/4/09)

Good work Pok.. Are you starting to bring it to the boil after 1st Runnings???



> our second AG today,


 :icon_offtopic: Yey for Raven, must be stoked..


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Steve said:


> Onya Pok - took yer bloody time.
> 
> I reckon after a couple you'll be going straight into the kettle instead of the fermenter. Get that hopsock further into the boil too.
> 
> ...



No real need to have it any lower...its a damn big hop sock and all the hops were down in the boil nicely.

So she is in the jerry now, jerry doesnt seem to like the heat too much but I have no idea what happens to others cubes so I have nothing to compare it with. Aslong as it doesnt pop we are all good

No real issues with my brew day except the long wait to get to boil. Other than that the wort I collected seemed rather cloudy so not sure how to fix that...I used a whirlfloc...anyway bring on the next brew day 

Here she is:


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

clean brewer said:


> Good work Pok.. Are you starting to bring it to the boil after 1st Runnings???



The 1st runnings didnt cover the element so I couldn't


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## Steve (10/4/09)

Congrats Pok - piece o piss isnt it?
Cheers
Steve


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Steve said:


> Congrats Pok - piece o piss isnt it?
> Cheers
> Steve



Yep was nice and simple. Glad I have the last one down and one now....Just got to ferment, condition and drink it now


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## shmick (10/4/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> YAY boil complete. Now time to put into no-chill vessel (which is a blue willow jerrycan)



Congrats Pok

Bet your glad it's all done now the clean up's finished  

I found putting a lid on the kettle will get it to the boil a lot quicker (30% at least).
Just remove it when you get there or it's boilover city.

shmick


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## Steve (10/4/09)

Remember....you put all the hard work into making it...keep up the hard work into fermenting it properly.


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## chappo1970 (10/4/09)

Congrats Pok! :super: 

Thanks for updatin' the thread all day mate. Been great watching your progress today. Well done but 18 months ya sook? You've made me day! Cheers mate raising the glass with me Dad in congrats :icon_cheers:


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

shmick said:


> Congrats Pok
> 
> Bet your glad it's all done now the clean up's finished
> 
> ...



I am still cleaning up as I type...and had a lid on the boiler at all times



Steve said:


> Remember....you put all the hard work into making it...keep up the hard work into fermenting it properly.



Yep will have her in my ferment fridge with a nice yeast aswell


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

Chappo said:


> Congrats Pok! :super:
> 
> Thanks for updatin' the thread all day mate. Been great watching your progress today. Well done but 18 months ya sook? You've made me day! Cheers mate raising the glass with me Dad in congrats :icon_cheers:



Thanks Chappo....can't wait to sit down with a beer...at the moment im standing


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## eric8 (10/4/09)

That sure was a full looking cube, nice work POk!! 
Congrats!
Eric
sitting and drinking


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## pokolbinguy (10/4/09)

How do I calculate my efficiency?.

I am fiddling with beersmith as I have a feeling the target SG etc spat out for my recipe may be incorrect, I really need to learn how to use this program correctly. The beersmith recipe I had shows a target OG of 1043 but after considering the volumes etc I used this does not seem right.

Not sure what info is needed to work it out but I used the following (all standard CB purchased grains):

-3kg Weyermann Pilsner
- 1kg Weyermann Munich I
- 1Kg Weyermann Pale Wheat Malt
- 0.3kg Weyermann Caramunich I

Mash was 5.3KG + 14L water, Mash out 9L, Sparge 10L - Pre boil volume of 28.5L. Final volume I would hazard a guess at approx 20-23L, I did not measure it but just put it straight into a 20L blue willow jerry and from memory these hold more than 20L


Mash was for 90 mins and pre-boil gravity came out at 1040

If someone can tell me how to calculate efficiency that would be great.

Does anyone know if there is a good way to learn how to use beersmith other than "fiddling" with it? Does it have a tutorial or something like that.

Cheers, Pok

EDIT: Ok I didnt realise that the SG reading is effected by heat. The reading of 1040 was taken at approx 53 deg (right before start of boil). So this would change things.


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## Steve (10/4/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> How do I calculate my efficiency?.
> 
> I am fiddling with beersmith as I have a feeling the target SG etc spat out for my recipe may be incorrect, I really need to learn how to use this program correctly. The beersmith recipe I had shows a target OG of 1043 but after considering the volumes etc I used this does not seem right.
> 
> ...



Sorry- cant answer that one. Dont use the stuff. But dont leave the lid on the kettle all the time. Take it off once its reached a rolling boil.


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## joecast (11/4/09)

hey pok nice job. doing my second ag today (should really start heating my mash water)

anyway, i put your figures in promash and got a corrected OG of 1.052 thats with a cal temp of 20C
i used that in the recipe and it worked out to 68% efficiency with a volume of 22L. nice work.
dont sweat the numbers (though they look pretty good for a first ag), as long as the brew tastes good! cheers
joe

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

10-A American Ale, American Pale Ale

Min OG: 1.045 Max OG: 1.060
Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 54
Min Clr: 5 Max Clr: 14 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 22.00 Wort Size (L): 22.00
Total Grain (kg): 5.30
Anticipated OG: 1.052 Plato: 12.81
Anticipated SRM: 7.9
Anticipated IBU: 0.0
Brewhouse Efficiency: 68 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 25.88 L
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.044 SG 10.96 Plato


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
56.6 3.00 kg. Weyermann Pilsner Germany 1.038 2
18.9 1.00 kg. Weyermann Munich I Germany 1.038 8
18.9 1.00 kg. Weyermann Pale Wheat Germany 1.038 2
5.7 0.30 kg. Weyermann Caramunich I Germany 1.036 51


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## crundle (11/4/09)

Good to hear it all went well Pok, hope to hear good reports when the fermentation is complete and you have kegged or bottled the beer. Still struggling with the whole efficiency thing myself, so can't offer anything helpful there as for calculating it properly. Once again though, DSGA is very forgiving, and you will still have a very drinkable beer even if it comes out under the expected gravity.

So what beer is next for you?

Crundle


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## pokolbinguy (11/4/09)

crundle said:


> So what beer is next for you?



No idea to be honest, will have to think about that.

How long should I leave the wort in the jerry for to cool before puting in fermenter and pitching? 24 hrs? I was hoping to do it this afternoon as I am going away for a few days and then got uni graduation on thurday so may aswell get it ticking over otherwise it will have to wait a week


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## eric8 (11/4/09)

Pok it should be fine to throw into the fermenter by this afternoon especially if you left it outside over night. Get that baby bubbling away and before you know it you will be drinking the best beer ever.


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## crundle (11/4/09)

Mine are normally fine to ferment after being in the garage overnight. If it is cool to the touch, then it is likely to be good to go, you can always sit a thermometer on the outside of the container to give you the correct temp.

Thinking of making an APA now, DJ1984 had a really nice extract recipe that would be good as an all grain. Mmmm.... All..... Grain.....

Crundle


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## Steve (11/4/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> How long should I leave the wort in the jerry for to cool before puting in fermenter and pitching?



get her in the fermenter now pok - she'll be right


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## pokolbinguy (11/4/09)

She is in he fermenter now, pictched and in the fermenting fridge.

Ony one strange thing, took a SG reading and it came to 1040 (which is 1041 when adjusted), which is what the reading was pre-boil (and at 53 deg)...now I would assume that the SG reading at pitching (around 20 deg) should be higher??

The only thing I can think of is that my SG reading pre-boil was wrong, maybe it was actually 1030 not 1040 (1040 @53 deg = 1052, 1030 @ 53deg = 1042). Anyway too late now, aslong as it tastes good it wont matter. But wish I knew what I did wrong.

If the SG at pitching is 1040 with fermenting volume of 23 L using the 5.3 KG of grain what would my efficiency be? And how do I work this out using beersmith?

Here she is (damn crappy photo):




Pok


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## flattop (11/4/09)

Someone mentioned lid on to get a better boil.... you need the lid off to get rid of bad stuff, see my first AG post.... Anyhow i guess you could use the lid to raise the temp then take if off but it needs to be off at boil..


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## pokolbinguy (11/4/09)

flattop said:


> Someone mentioned lid on to get a better boil.... you need the lid off to get rid of bad stuff, see my first AG post.... Anyhow i guess you could use the lid to raise the temp then take if off but it needs to be off at boil..



Interesting, Lid was on while getting to boil but on and off while boiling so hopefully what ever needed out got out.


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## crundle (11/4/09)

I have the lid on after mashout to help it get to the boil quicker, and then take the lid off for the whole of the boil. It isn't as strong a boil as a gas burner or dual element electric, but it must get rid of some stuff if I lose 7.6% of the pre boil volume at the end of one hour boiling.

I am still confused over efficiency, and am now thinking of getting my grain to be milled twice for me by Beerbelly to crush it finer (OK for BIAB, no stuck sparges to worry about) in an effort to reach my target gravities without resorting to using more grain.

I think efficiency depends on both what you extract from the grain during the mash itself, as well as what you get out of the mash during your sparge, so you may need to take a reading at both points to be able to see where you are able to improve your efficiency. For your purpose today, I think beersmith has an input in the brewhouse efficiency up near the top right of the recipe parameter screen that you can enter your collected SG readings to better tune your efficiency from the standard 75%b or whatever it has as default (I am at work, so don't have it in front of me for reference).

By entering the gravities you recorded, it will work out your efficiency for you.

hope this helps more than confuses things.....

Crundle


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## pokolbinguy (12/4/09)

Blup blup blup blup.....sheeeeee's going


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## Frank (12/4/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> How do I calculate my efficiency?.



A quick way to check your efficiency is adjust the batch size on BeerSmith recipe to the actual amount of wort produced, plus trub wastage (add 2L if you did not measure it, but need to ensure you have trub loss = 0 in My Equipment section). 
Then keep changing your Brewhouse Efficiency in the top right hand corner until your estimate OG = your actual OG. 
Then that's your efficiency. Use this efficiency for the start point of your next recipe and see how you go.


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## np1962 (12/4/09)

Boston said:


> A quick way to check your efficiency is adjust the batch size on BeerSmith recipe to the actual amount of wort produced, plus trub wastage (add 2L if you did not measure it, but need to ensure you have trub loss = 0 in My Equipment section).
> Then keep changing your Brewhouse Efficiency in the top right hand corner until your estimate OG = your actual OG.
> Then that's your efficiency. Use this efficiency for the start point of your next recipe and see how you go.




Isn't it easier to go into 'Brewhouse Efficiency' in Recipe View in Beersmith and enter your actual figures. This will give you your Efficiency of this batch without changing the actual recipe.

Nige

Edit:-speelink


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## Frank (12/4/09)

NigeP62 said:


> Isn't it easier to go into 'Brewhouse Efficiency' in Recipe View in Beersmith and enter your actual figures. This will give you your Efficiency of this batch without changing the actual recipe.
> 
> Nige
> 
> Edit:-speelink


Just checked. You're right (for efficiency alone), will do it this way next time. Although changing the recipe will recalculate your IBU level (which was not part of the original question though), with correction for SG. Or is there another way this can be recalculated with out changing the recipe?


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## pokolbinguy (24/5/09)

So I finally got off my arse and gassed up my 1st AG beer last night as it had been in the kegerator nice and cold for about a week waiting for gas. Unfortunatly I seemed to have over carbonated it  as it is pouring nice glasses of foam...have bled off the excess pressure but will just have to wait for it to come down to serving pressure (about 100kpa).

Notes on the beer itself (aside of carbonation):

- Clarity - not really all that great. Beer is a little hazy...sort of resembles that of Coopers pale ale with the yeast in suspension....will need to pull out my beer filter and finally use it for the 1st time.
- Flavour....nice...maybe a little bitter than I would like but that. No distinct off/infected characters which is always a bonus. Got the thumbs up from the old man aswell which is good 

So seems to have all worked out for my 1st AG...aslong as I can get the carbonation right.

With the carbonation can I just set to my serving pressure (1 bar = 100kap) and let the keg "equalise" (this is what I was planning on doing)? or should I take the keg out, let it warm up and let the pressure out in the morning and then re-cool???

Cheers, Pok.


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## raven19 (24/5/09)

pokolbinguy said:


> With the carbonation can I just set to my serving pressure (1 bar = 100kap) and let the keg "equalise" (this is what I was planning on doing)? or should I take the keg out, let it warm up and let the pressure out in the morning and then re-cool???



If it is indeed overcarbonated, then best to take it out of the fridge, open relief valve, then shake. I would be inclined to leave it out for 24 hours giving it a shake every now and then. Then put back in fridge at serving pressure. Should gas up no worries within a week or so.


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## pokolbinguy (18/6/09)

Finally got this puppy down to the correct carbonation after weeks of stuffing around with shitty pouring...and I tell you ...YUM....1st AG and its a great beer. A few weeks in keg + proper carbonation...this was a winner. Thanks to who ever suggested the recipe to me.

Can't wait till I move now and can get all the gear out again and brew...unfortunatley considering I am moving in a few weeks the brewing will have to be put on the back burner


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## BennyBrewster (19/6/09)

How strong is the aroma Pok?


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