# new to brewing got question ,stc1000 fridge problem



## zuzu (10/1/18)

well this is schematic what i did





i cutout old thermristor wires .i left from compressor 4 wires 2 black (neutral i think) blue live and yellow ground 
when i connect blue with any of black i get 0v when i connect to ground i get 23x v
and these wires are seperated and isolated

then i did that on pic
i get 2 ,1 and 3 sockets ,,1m of cable
i prep all and connect new 220v cable out of wall to 2 sockets
blue to pin 1 in stc ,brown to pin 2
blue to pin 7 (i do only cooling)
brown to pin 2
brown to 1m cable socket to brown
yelow ground to 1 way socket to yelow to 1m cable
blue out of pin 8 to socket to 1m cable
pins 3 and 4 are sensor

then on ground after i clean 220v old cable and connect to 3 way socket ,(blue,brown.yelow)
i connect out of 1m extension cable
yelow on yelow
brown to brown
blue to blue
reading say on top socket is 23x volt same on ground socket

i set stc1000 ,f1 18c ,f2 1c ,,,, f 3 f4 default
it show 29.9c and when it stop blink stay like that now 3h
where i did wrong ?
do i need to do something with these 4 wires from old thermistor (2 black 1 blue 1 yelow ) ??

please help

p.s https://imgur.com/IBUa5hX


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## zuzu (10/1/18)

which wire of these 4 from comressor to old thermistor
i need to connect to close circuit and start fridge ?

out of comressor i got this
blue is live ,yelow is ground (when i connect these 2 i get 23x volt)
and 2 blacks .. (i guess these are neutrals)


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## Camo6 (10/1/18)

I have no idea what your talking about so now that makes two of us. I don't know how you've made plugging a fridge into an stc controller so complicated.
For starters, don't assume black is neutral as it's an active 'colour' in other countries. And if you do suspect it is a neutral why would you short it to an active?
I'd be taking a step back personally but if not just remember: Red to red, black to black and blue to bits.


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## zuzu (10/1/18)

i short over voltmeter .to see which is live .. 
and after i return live power back to old cable 
i have now 2 lives ,one blue one black .one brown neut + ground from brakebox 
i guess neut go to light ,and live (which one?) to thermistor where he switch on/off to light ,but what trigger brakebox to turn compressor on 
from these 3, 2 live + ground +1 neut ?


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## Garagebrew (10/1/18)

Is it possible to turn the original thermostat right down and connect everything as it was and set up the new controller with a GPO and plug the fridge straight into that?
I’ve done that with my fermenting fridge and it’s working great.


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## Garagebrew (10/1/18)

Your gonna have a start, run, neutral cable and Earth, the start should only be temporarily live as it just gets the unit running and will come off a relay somewhere in the compressors control box.


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## Garagebrew (10/1/18)




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## pcqypcqy (10/1/18)

Yeah, I think having a plug and play set up is the way to do it. Let's you move it around and use it for other things as well if required.


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## Garagebrew (10/1/18)

Haha I used mine to maintain temp for my chilli seedlings so they’d be ready to plant in spring, my neighbor thought I was wasting my talent by only growing veggies


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## zuzu (10/1/18)

Garagebrew said:


> Your gonna have a start, run, neutral cable and Earth, the start should only be temporarily live as it just gets the unit running and will come off a relay somewhere in the compressors control box.


ok thanks

when i use direct power to stc1000 .only blue was live other 2 are null 
plus ground out of brakebox to old thermristor (no i cant bring back old one he was dead before i start ,it's older fridge)
and i return power cord back to old place (to compressor)

so i connect blue to pin 1 in stc like live and to pin 7 in cooling (out of brake box) 
and out of 8 to that temp live black 
and null brown to pin 2 
but nothing ,it wont start .stc1000 click when he start to cool 
and nothing change .
what i need to do to start i see on some videos that ppl tie together some lines and put that in stc .i can tie blue and black but where i send pin 8 now ..huh

fridge work before thermristor die 
i up temp to 40 so he clik on heating and back to 18c for cooling to test it


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## zuzu (10/1/18)

Garagebrew said:


> Is it possible to turn the original thermostat right down and connect everything as it was and set up the new controller with a GPO and plug the fridge straight into that?
> I’ve done that with my fermenting fridge and it’s working great.


well thermristor die .so i cant 
i know it will be easy way ..just plug fridge to controler and that was it 
like that post down .stc 1000 in box ..


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## timmi9191 (10/1/18)

With your hap-hazard approach to 240v, id say its lucky the thermristor is the only thing to die


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## Garagebrew (10/1/18)

Is there any way that you can get to the thermostat wiring it should just be 2 cables (power in and out) if it’s an older fridge and plug it into the cooling relay in and out of the STC 1000?
You can use it to make and break the original connection that the thermostat used to operate and the fridge won’t know the difference.


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## zuzu (10/1/18)

ok thatnks for advices .i make it to work kinda ..
i set temp f1 to 18 .f2 to 0.5 f 3 f4 default
ambient temp is 23-24 and stc show that
so when i connected all and make it to work
i connect in loop in and out of thermostat to force always on (find that on youtube)
and from pin 8 (live exit for cooling) to compressor rest from cable

and it start compressor ))
he lower temp to 18- on17.5 turn colling off and heating mode start ..
but problem is stc1000 wasnt switch off pin 8
and fridge now run all time i turn off on 14 manualy ..
what i need to set in stc1000 to turn off pin 8 after he get to f1 temp ??
i set f1 to 18 that shuld turn pin8 off but dont... 
my version is ,,pin 12 main power ,34 sensor ,56 heating 78 cooling
on schematic pins 6 8 have switch like exits ...

thanks again


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## laxation (11/1/18)

Whether or not OP is interested, I think it's worth saying for others that might stumble across this in some google search... you can get a temperature controller for $15 off ebay if you only need to do hot OR cold at one time. If you need both (heating belt or fridge), an Inkbird is around $50.

I think you're mad to not just buy one of them - ******* around with electricity is not a good idea for the sake of saving $20


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## zuzu (12/1/18)

i got stc1000 which is rebranded name of inkbird how i see it so.. 
i dont get it why you say that ?? advertising ?


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## pcqypcqy (12/1/18)

zuzu said:


> i got stc1000 which is rebranded name of inkbird how i see it so..
> i dont get it why you say that ?? advertising ?



You can get an inkbird controller that's fully wired up, you just plug in the plugs and set the temperature and it works.

They do sell that un-wired one which sounds like you have. No issues with it, but it takes some knowledge of wiring to make it work.

Some people enjoy the hobby/challenge of wiring it themselves, but others don't and prefer an out-of-the-box solution.

If you're confident in what you're doing, then there are no issues. But 240v can kill you so just be careful.


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