# Purchasing 50l Braumeister



## Matty3450 (19/6/13)

Hi all has anyone purchased a braumeister recently? I've done a lot of research and am very impressed with what I see. What are your experiences with it so far? I've read these forums and understand there is plenty of positive stuff about these and also some negetive some mainly based around the price.

I generally brew double batches of American ales on my old setup but like the braumeisters ability to step mash as I would like to start making more lager type beers.

If people could post there experiences it will be appreciated. 

Regards 

Matt


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## tavas (19/6/13)

Bought mine in March. Have only used it twice due to limitations of space for bottles. Unit works great, except needing to get 15amp power and lifting the pipe can be an issue. I made a lifting jig out of square tube and a boat winch.
I found that I don't really know enough about step mashing to know what I am doing. So here is my next area of education.

Another benefit I found is that because I spilt my batches, I can ferment using different yeasts to find out what each one brings to the table. Currently I have a 3 Shades of Stout split with Nottingham in one and Wyeast 1469 in the other. Hoping to crack the first bottle this weekend to see the difference.

The only negative I found is the cost. Once you get over that, you won't regret it. I fart assed about trying to make a single vessel unit, even toyed with the idea of making a Braumiser clone, but my wife explained it quite clearly: "How much time will you spend stuffing around to get it right, vs spending the coin up front and buying back that time". Sold it for me. Bought the unit when the bonus came through, chucked out all of my half started and failed attempts and just kept the urn and bag.

With me working long hours and two small kids, time is precious for us. The BM sits in the corner of the patio doing its thing while I play with the kids. I just need to attend to things when they come up (like lifting pipe, throw in hops) and then clean up. One vessel, cleanup is easy.

You will keep it forever so amortise the cost over a long timeframe, or you can sell it for a good price.

The other arguement I have seen is you can't do big beers. I know some guys have found work arounds, but I have never made a beer over about 1.065 and probably never will so it's not an issue for me.

They are still hands on: you still develop the recipe, crack the grain, measure out the hops etc. The mash part is taken care of and I find that works damn well for me.

My 0.185c


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## Batz (19/6/13)

I've had mine for two years and love it!

It replaced my very nice 3v HERMS set up. Best move I've made and never looked back.


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## Dan Pratt (19/6/13)

I got my 20lt in Dec last year and its been awesome making beer since. You wont regret it. The price up front is alot but its a long term equipment investment that has good dividends.

Positives - step mashing repeatabilty, hop addition beeper, single vessel clean up.

Negatives - Limitations on big beers - eg 20litres of 1060 with 5kg of grain is hard to do with just malt.


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## tallie (19/6/13)

I bought mine in January and have brewed on it 10 times. All but one of those times was doing a single batch with the short malt pipe. Contrary to what most people have described, I struggle to get over 70% mash efficiency, even for beers in the range of 1.045-1.050 OG. Perhaps I'm measuring it differently, or perhaps it's a limitation of the short malt pipe, or something else. The only full-size batch I've done also came in at 63%, but it was a bigger beer. Anyway, it doesn't bother me too much now - I just set most of my recipes to 70% and aim for that.

I think to get any sort of decent efficiency, sparging is a must (I'm very happy to be proven wrong on this, as long as you show me how!). This adds a bit of stuffing around to what is an otherwise very streamlined and automated brewday. Just something to be aware of. Also, don't trust the measurements on the tie-rod - mine were a few litres out to what is reported in the manual, and I've heard this from others too. The manual may be reporting volume minus dead-space, but whatever the case, it can throw your calculations out.

Price certainly is a big factor, not forgetting the need to get a 15A circuit installed if you don't already have one. The reason I went the 50 despite primarily brewing 20L batches is the ability to use the large malt pipe to brew a big beer, and gain on the OG by boiling it down longer. I haven't tried this in anger yet, but I'm confident it would work.

If you've got a local retailer that stocks them, or perhaps a local club with someone who has one, try and get along to a brewday and see what's involved. Whilst I don't think my brewdays are any shorter since moving from my old 2-tier 3V setup, the amount of hands-on time seems to be far less.


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## professional_drunk (19/6/13)

If for example you buy a 20lt BM, is there any issue with doing a smaller volume of doppelbock style wort?


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## Kranky (19/6/13)

I got a 50l last October. The biggest issue I had was the cost of the single vessel brew system, I was concerned about it being a tinny piece of overpriced crap. I have to say I haven't regretted buying the Braumeister in any way, shape or form. It's brilliant.

I've still got my 3v system for high gravity beer, which is the one drawback of the Braumeister. I have however been looking at ways of doing higher gravity beers in the Braumeister and recently used 2 lots of grains (a double mash I guess) to make an 8.8% double IPA (the beer won a local brew comp with a BJCP score of 48). The contrast between brewing with a 3v outdoor system and indoor with the single vessel system is large. Not ever having to worry about the weather to brew is a god send. 

Step mashing is as easy as programming in your temps and times. The repeatability of brewing the same beer is superb and it's just so much less work. I'd recommend getting one. If for some reason you don't like it I'd bet the resale value isn't going to hurt that much.


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## tallie (19/6/13)

professional_drunk said:


> If for example you buy a 20lt BM, is there any issue with doing a smaller volume of doppelbock style wort?


I don't think so, and hope not, as that's what I'm banking on! 

Just pulling numbers out of the air, say you get 22L of 1.060 wort at the end of a 60 min boil with an evaporation rate of 4L/hour. If you change your boil to 2 hours, you'd end up with 18L of 1.073 wort. 2.5 hrs would give 16L of 1.082 and 3 hrs would be 14L of 1.094.

The main case I can think of where extending a boil would be problematic would be for a paler beer like a Belgian Tripel, where you don't necessarily want the darkening or flavouring characteristics you get form an extended boil. For most high OG beers though, I think those characteristics would be beneficial.

Another alternative is to bump up the OG by adding extract.

Edit: As Kranky mentioned, yet another alternative is the double-mashing. In fact, there's a whole thread about big beers on the BM at http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/60261-big-beers-for-the-braumeister/


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## stakka82 (20/6/13)

I have had a 50l since March this year and have done about 6 batches with the large malt pipe.

All in all very happy with the purchase and do not regret it in any way. Still getting my head around step mashing and am yet to do a 5 step pilsner (this is coming up soon) but with basic 55/62/72/78 mashes for ales have been getting great results. This may be more a reflection on previous brewing techniques than the equipment itself but either way I'm stoked.

I have found that you can also get 3 cubes full of moderate strength wort (around the 1042 mark) no worries, or do a big boil for bigger beers and get 1.5 cube batches, great flexibility in that regard.

Main drawback for me is hauling the unit around to clean it and getting the malt pipe out. Either are doable with 1 person but ideally you want a mate around to help unless you have a pulley set up which I have not got around to doing.


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## Bribie G (20/6/13)

Tallie, if you were at the Systems Wars comp a couple of years ago, you may recall that the BM - operated by Pocket Beers - came in at 74% efficiency which was the same as the BIAB setup - seems to be "ballpark" for the system.


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## stakka82 (20/6/13)

I regularly get 80% plus but employ 10l sparge.


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## tiprya (20/6/13)

Pratty1 said:


> Positives - step mashing repeatabilty, *hop addition beeper*, single vessel clean up.


How do you get hop addition beeps?!?

I love my 20L - I get 86% mash efficiency FWIW


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## Bribie G (20/6/13)

I set hop addition beeps with a couple of Aldi $4 timers

ah that German technology :lol:


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## davo4772 (20/6/13)

Just bought a 20l. To be honest I would marry mine if it were legal.

The advantages are previously well recorded around here.

My main issue currently with small children is I have little time to brew and the brewing day tends to be fragmented. That is I will get up early, start the mash. Let the BM do it's thing. Finish mashing at 9-10am. Then in the afternoon finish the boil etc when the kid is asleep.
Sometimes I will mash in the evening and boill in the morning. Or mash in the arvo and finish when kids are asleep.
The point being is I can reliably leave the thing unattended and attend to the kids.

Prior to the BM I could still do that with my RIMS but the eventual clean up was a pain. 2 to 3 pots, hoses, setting up etc.

BM is dead easy, one pot, no hoses. Seems to make the brewday much easier with less fluffing around.

Equally BIAB is just as easy but if you want step mashing it takes away the simplicity.


As to efficiency. I had my old system (RIMS) tuned to 70%. When I bought the BM I am easily hitting 80% with the same crush. I'm not obsessed with effficiency as long as it's consistant and I would'nt want to go higher than 80% anyway.

Anyway, don't hesitate. they are a great bit of gear. Yet to find anyone whom has regretted the purchase.

Dave


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## Matty3450 (20/6/13)

Thanks everyone for their replies I will be hopefully picking one up in Perth when I'm in town at the end of the month. Pending stock arrival. 

Fingers crossed don't get to Perth often and I like to take the opportunity when there to buy lots of grain and other heavy things that are expensive to freight. 

Thanks again


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## tavas (20/6/13)

Ring Roy at TWOC to put one aside. He had 4 50Lt units when i bought mine so should have one available.


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## mrTbeer (20/6/13)

Saw one (50L) being used commercially yesterday by Siobahn at brewbake.
2 brews a day everyday, be interesting to see how the machine goes long term.


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## Batz (20/6/13)

> Saw one (50L) being used commercially yesterday by Siobahn at brewbake.
> 2 brews a day everyday, be interesting to see how the machine goes long term.


There you go, being used commercially. What better rap can you get than that.


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## dicko (20/6/13)

i had an excellent 50 litre 3v with a herms but I found that the equipment was just getting to heavy when cleaning and generally moving the gear around.
After much thought I decided to downsize and rather than build a smaller system I bought a 20 litre BM. I know what it cost me to build the 3v and I figure the BM purchase was on par if everything is taken into account.
Well I just am stoked with the BM. It is so easy to use and easy to clean. It produces beer that is repeatable which makes for an enjoyable brewday.
I get around the 80% efficiency out of mine with an average OG under 1.050.
As I go higher the efficiency drops a bit but nothing that you can't account for once you have used it a few times.
Each owner seems to have their own methods but in the end the result is still good beer.
Buy one mate...you wont regret it..

Cheers


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## Dan Pratt (20/6/13)

tiprya said:


> How do you get hop addition beeps?!?
> 
> I love my 20L - I get 86% mash efficiency FWIW


while we are all on about mash efficiencys I get +/- 80% aswell. but i was doing that with biab.

The hops beeper comes std on the new units. YOU get 3 options to set a timer after you have dialled in the boil length and temp.

From memory new units come with hops beeper, rubber caps on the legs and steel mesh to replace the cloth style filters.


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## nathan_madness (20/6/13)

How much grain can you fit in the 50l model?


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## Batz (20/6/13)

nathan_madness said:


> How much grain can you fit in the 50l model?


How much grain would you like to fit in a 50lt BM?


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## sillyboybrybry (20/6/13)

you can fit a lot in - but ideally you need to keep it within the malt pipe for it to work well
I put 13kg in a few weeks ago on my 4th brew and was a little worried but it went well.


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## nathan_madness (20/6/13)

Batz said:


> How much grain would you like to fit in a 50lt BM?


I was just wondering? Lets say would it fit 15kg.


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## Batz (20/6/13)

nathan_madness said:


> I was just wondering? Lets say would it fit 15kg.


Not easily, what are you planning on brewing with 15kg of grain?


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## nathan_madness (20/6/13)

A double batch of Tripel would be around 15kg.

Also how does it drain when you lift the grain up? Does it splash back into the hot wort?


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## Malted (21/6/13)

nathan_madness said:


> A double batch of Tripel would be around 15kg.
> 
> Also how does it drain when you lift the grain up? Does it splash back into the hot wort?


I am pretty sure I squeezed 16.5kg into my 50L recently. Mashed in a bit and then mashed in a bit more until it was all in. The flow through the grist was quite restricted and I was therefore worried about the potential for scorching to occur. It did not want to sparge either and I had to stir the top 2/3rds of the grain bed to get it to let the sparge through. I wouldn't recommend using this much grain.

Yes the malt pipe lifts up above the wort level but remains inside the 'pot' as it drains (i.e when you tip water over the grain to sparge them). It probably does 'splash' back into the wort but does not 'splash' out of the pot. I'd prefer to say it drips or drains into the wort.

The picture on the right shows it in sparging mode (this is a 20L unit as the 50L has two separate elements and two pumps). Relatively speaking, you would expect the wort level to be about the level of the arrow that says connecting rod:


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## nathan_madness (21/6/13)

So would "HSA" be of any concern with the wort dripping back in? I am just about to go either 3v or 50l Braumeister and so torn to which way I should go.


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## Kranky (21/6/13)

nathan_madness said:


> So would "HSA" be of any concern with the wort dripping back in? I am just about to go either 3v or 50l Braumeister and so torn to which way I should go.


I thought it would be an issue but it's not.


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## Batz (21/6/13)

> So would "HSA" be of any concern with the wort dripping back in? I am just about to go either 3v or 50l Braumeister and so torn to which way I should go.


I think you should go 3v.

batz


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## nathan_madness (21/6/13)

Batz said:


> I think you should go 3v.
> 
> batz


Why Do you say that?


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## sillyboybrybry (21/6/13)

you could definitely build a 3v for a fraction of the cost. And just think of the level of satisfaction you would get out of it?


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## dicko (21/6/13)

nathan_madness said:


> So would "HSA" be of any concern with the wort dripping back in? I am just about to go either 3v or 50l Braumeister and so torn to which way I should go.


A Sabco or a Beerbelly unit would suit you better. I dont think a BM is for you.

Cheers


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## surly (21/6/13)

dicko said:


> A Sabco or a Beerbelly unit would suit you better. I dont think a BM is for you.
> 
> Cheers


This interests me. Care to elaborate?


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## Midnight Brew (22/6/13)

Holy shit a braumseister 50L is $3600. :blink: Is it gold plated?

Steep upfront investment. Forgive my ignorance but thats some serious coin for what is achievable on alternative systems.

My system:
80L Ali pot $140
Reg $40
Burner $80
Thats $260 already plus maybe a $100 for tap, fittings, homemade bag, pulley parts, gas bottle
$360 which is a 10th of the price. Just missing the gold.


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## stakka82 (22/6/13)

Additional:

1. Are you sure you can replicate mash temps every single time with that? What about that time you had too many cans and went to 68 instead of 65...
2. Maybe one day you actually realise the dream and run a pico/pub/micro brewery. Do you want something that can mimic the big systems and run a pilot batch for you? Ok BM can do that.
3. I'm an average guy and I earn average national male wage. That's what, 70k or a bit more? Fortnightly pay is 2k, i got 50L for 2.7k 6 months old. So you are talking about less than 3 weeks pay for an average dude, all the above advantages plus all the other documented ones. 1-3 cube production dependent on OG. Win.

Yeah. Rationalisation city, wasted style.


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## aldee (22/6/13)

What's the most popular method of cooling when using a 50 lt braumeister?


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## dicko (22/6/13)

aldee said:


> What's the most popular method of cooling when using a 50 lt braumeister?


You have the same options as any AG brewery.
I use an immersion chiller or no chill into a cube. Others have a hop back or Randall and then through a plate or counterflow chiller.. Or just strait through the CFWC. The choice is yours..

Cheers


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## humulus (22/6/13)

Had my 20l around 2years now done 50+ brews on it and i cant fault it,worth the $ when you tell other people what it costs,in their eyes not,in mine definately,there are now 3 of them in our brewclub


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## Midnight Brew (22/6/13)

stakka82 said:


> Additional:
> 
> 1. Are you sure you can replicate mash temps every single time with that? What about that time you had too many cans and went to 68 instead of 65...
> 2. Maybe one day you actually realise the dream and run a pico/pub/micro brewery. Do you want something that can mimic the big systems and run a pilot batch for you? Ok BM can do that.
> ...


1. Can and do reguarly step mash with no issues at all. Sure it takes an extra 20 minutes standing around the kettle but it is my hobby and if I didnt enjoy it I wouldnt be doing it. Usually get stuck into the brews after cubing. No doubt it will happen and I'll overshoot one day by a few degrees, all comes down to planning.
2. Most would dream to do this one day but IMHO I dont want to make my hobby my job. BM would be fantastic for this I agree.
3. Im an average guy too however I earn well below half of that sum per year. In the process of gaining an apprenticeship. In the long run that would be a great investment but it's just unrealistic in my budget. When you put it like that its a great investment and affordable for most, it would depend on time factor if you wanted to build your own system which adds to the hobby. 2 cubes dependent on OG.

Not for all but for me $360 wins over $3600 and I'm really happy with the results.


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## Batz (22/6/13)

A BM is a big investment.

I have been brewing for over 30 years and consider it my hobby, others like photography, golf, bike riding, hunting, fishing, etc. If you get into any interest it will cost you money, I don't see brewing as anything different.

Batz


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## MastersBrewery (22/6/13)

Batz said:


> A BM is a big investment.
> 
> I have been brewing for over 30 years and consider it my hobby, others like photography, golf, bike riding, hunting, fishing, etc. If you get into any interest it will cost you money, I don't see brewing as anything different.
> 
> Batz


Have to agree with this ... the father inlaw is into his hunting a cheap rifle can set you back $1000 new, he has more than a few guns, then there's gun safes etc, it's a hobby. While I don't have a BM, if I had the money I'd get one, as with others there's always something happening on brew days with the kids, and the control the BM offers would be right handy. Most systems you can't just walk away from after mash in, or during the boil.


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## sillyboybrybry (22/6/13)

aldee said:


> What's the most popular method of cooling when using a 50 lt braumeister?


straight into a cube then chuck it in the pool.
buying a pool could be a significant expense though if you are worried about the cost of the braumeister to begin with.


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## sillyboybrybry (22/6/13)

I was lucky enough to join a club and meet a guy that wanted to go halves in one. We have set up guidelines for use and pricing if either of us ever decide we want out. Also have a sinking fund based on how many brews done so that we have money to buy more bits (better pumps/short malt pipe) If ever we decide we want to.
As soon as I saw one I knew it was the machine for me. 

Small footprint (I live in an apartment) 
I don't have to cut/drill/weld anything (skills I do not have)
As previously said you don't have to hover over it with a thermometer adjusting temps
One vessel means less mess - nil transfer of liquids.
My wife initially was not impressed with the price - but when I explained that I _*would eventually get one*_ and we can just skip buying all the bits and pieces inbetween 19l BIAB on the stove and 50l Braumeister she agreed it was a good idea.
I have been brewing for less than a year and I expect the braumeister to last the next 20 years at least.


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## Black n Tan (22/6/13)

I am on my second Braumeister. I decided to upgrade from my 20L to a 50L. I love it. It is compact, easy to use, time saving, and makes excellent beer. I can can play around with different step mash profile until my hearts content. it is expensive, and if you are short on cash, handy and have plenty of spare time then making your own system may be the way to go. For me however, I will never look back. I take comfort that it will pay for itself in about 1 year (based on not buying slabs of LCPA anymore) and I get the satisfaction out of making great beers. If you have the cash you wont regret it. Get the 50L (preferably with the short mash pipe so you can experiment with small batches) and save the expense of upgrading at a later date.


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## Kranky (22/6/13)

aldee said:


> What's the most popular method of cooling when using a 50 lt braumeister?


I have a 30 plate chiller that I got with my 3v system but I got sick of cleaning it. I could chuck it in the oven for 3 hours on max, flush it out with my hose for an hour (the water pressure at my place is very high) and I could still get black carbon coming out of it. I switched to an immersion chiller and now that I have the BM I just turn the pumps on it chills pretty quickly. The immersion chiller is a lot easier to clean and it doesn't get stuck with trub and hops at the end of a long brew day.


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## Matty3450 (22/6/13)

Black and tan have you got a good recipe for a lcpa ish beer that you make in your 50 liter ? I love that beer do much


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## Black n Tan (22/6/13)

I have not brewed this yet (but it is on the list), but Tony's LCPA clone gets a good review.

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/recipe/960-little-fellas-pale-ale/


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## Dan Pratt (22/6/13)

.


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## Matty3450 (28/6/13)

Picked up a braumeister today exciting times ahead


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## Batz (28/6/13)

Matty3450 said:


> Picked up a braumeister today exciting times ahead



Welcome, it's an exclusive club but one of which you'll enjoy being a member of.


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## thebigwilk (28/6/13)

AHH yes the age old argument is the braumeister really worth rolling that big coin for. Simple answer look no further I will tell you in short , those who have one will swear best money ever spent and will have a list of reasons to justify it . Those that don't own one will argue its the biggest con ever, and your crazy spending that much money to do so little. Ahh human nature its a beautiful thing?

P.S

I don't own one, what do you think I am crazy. Imagine spending that much money just to make beer


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## Batz (28/6/13)

thebigwilk said:


> Ahh human nature its a beautiful thing?



it is...so is a braumeister


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## gilmoreous (28/6/13)

I have a 50L Brau and struggle to get good efficiency. How do you get 80% efficiency? How much water do you mash into and how much grain do you use? How much do you sparge?


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## Rowy (28/6/13)

Batz said:


> it is...so is a braumeister


You still got that bad boy for sale for $800 Batz?


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## GuyQLD (28/6/13)

Why do you care about efficiency... you've got enough money to pay for a brau.


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## Batz (28/6/13)

Rowy said:


> You still got that bad boy for sale for $800 Batz?


that was only between you and me big boy


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## stakka82 (28/6/13)

gilmoreous said:


> I have a 50L Brau and struggle to get good efficiency. How do you get 80% efficiency? How much water do you mash into and how much grain do you use? How much do you sparge?


Mate a few things I would look at:

1. Your crush - I find 1mm on my mill is perfect
2. Sparge can add 5-10 points - I sparge with 10L mashout temp water after lifting the pipe

I mash in with about 50-53 litres, including sparge this gets me about 45+ litres of finished beer (2 cubes) if doing a 1050 strength wort. Hit 80% on average brewhouse efficiency, leaving about 2-3 litres trub in the brau.


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## Black n Tan (28/6/13)

hmmm i must be doing something wrong. I get 85% mash efficiency, but lose 7-8L in trub which drag down my brewhouse efficiency to low 70s. I use whirlfloc and whirlpool. What gives?


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## thebigwilk (28/6/13)

gilmoreous said:


> I have a 50L Brau and struggle to get good efficiency. How do you get 80% efficiency? How much water do you mash into and how much grain do you use? How much do you sparge?


Ahh yes how silly of me I forgot one more group, and that's the group that spent all that money and still don't know how to use them!! Silly silly me!


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## stakka82 (28/6/13)

Black n Tan said:


> hmmm i must be doing something wrong. I get 85% mash efficiency, but lose 7-8L in trub which drag down my brewhouse efficiency to low 70s. I use whirlfloc and whirlpool. What gives?


Get a good whirlpool going, then when you get down to about 8 litres tilt the brau from the back, a block of wood I use about 5cms thick gets my losses down to about 3l, if you have a good cone you will still get clear wort till the end.

You can see when the cone will start to get sucked into the tap, stop at that point. Should get you nudging 80% assuming no other issues.

MHB used to stock a pickup for the Brau, I have messaged him about it to no avail, would be handy to ditch the tilting.


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## sillyboybrybry (28/6/13)

thebigwilk said:


> Ahh yes how silly of me I forgot one more group, and that's the group that spent all that money and still don't know how to use them!! Silly silly me!



thats me!


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## thebigwilk (28/6/13)

That's just silly!!!


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## Black n Tan (28/6/13)

I dont get a good cone so need to practice the whirlpool


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## Rowy (28/6/13)

thebigwilk said:


> That's just silly!!!


You're obviously not only a psychologist but a beer expert. How about you give the boys some advice.


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## stakka82 (28/6/13)

Get a wide ass mash paddle, I got mine from keg king for $50 odd, stainless steel. No way you can **** the whirlpool up with a beast like that. It weighs about as much as a club lock too.

http://www.kegking.com.au/Downloads/Catalogue%20-%20Retail%20Price%20List.pdf


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## Black n Tan (28/6/13)

Fcuk I was just there today! Thanks for the suggestion stakka82.


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## gilmoreous (28/6/13)

Hey thebigwilk what is your problem? I'm asking for help and all you can do is try and shit on me. Maybe I'm not some master brewer like you sure as shit seem to be but it's something I enjoy and want to get better at. 
Thank you Stakka82 for your advice. How much grain do you use? Maybe I'm not measuring my efficiency right.


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## stakka82 (28/6/13)

For the numbers I posted before probably around the 10kg mark.

The volume of wort you get out of the brau and the gravity of that wort will determine your brewhouse efficiency given the amount of grain you use. A simple and free program like brewmate is enough to be able to plug those figures in and come to your efficiency. With brewmate you can scale the efficiency box up and down until the figures match. Plug in the amount of grain you use, and the finished volume of wort you get, and move the efficiency until your OG matches what you measure using a hydro at the cubing/chilling/end of boil stage. What the efficiency reads is then your brewhouse efficiency.

If you get a handle on that and want more accurate measurements use beersmith. With beersmith you can mess around with measurements preboil, post boil, etc and figure out where you're losing out.


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## sillyboybrybry (29/6/13)

stakka82 said:


> Get a wide ass mash paddle, I got mine from keg king for $50 odd, stainless steel. No way you can **** the whirlpool up with a beast like that. It weighs about as much as a club lock too.
> 
> http://www.kegking.com.au/Downloads/Catalogue%20-%20Retail%20Price%20List.pdf


I knew my mash paddle wasn't big enough. My wife said it was fine. She said she hadn't ever seen any bigger.


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## Dan Pratt (29/6/13)

MHB used to stock a pickup for the Brau, I have messaged him about it to no avail, would be handy to ditch the tilting.
[/quote]

I use a bit of 2x4 and tilt her forward to get maximum wort out of the rig, gets another 3 Lt into the FV. 

I have a pickup tube and seal if your interested in buying from me, I only used it once and haven't since?


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## Dan Pratt (29/6/13)

The photo is upside down...lol. You get the idea of the pickup tube though.


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## Batz (29/6/13)

I wonder why some non Braumeister people get their little cotton tails in such a twist when they read a Braumeister thread?

Sometimes I even wonder if it's a itty bitty of jealously showing.....no surely not...silly, silly me.


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## Florian (29/6/13)

Another way of doing it, and that's how I've done it for well over a year now, is to not whirlpool at all.

Use some good kettle finings like brew brite or whirlflock and just let the stuff settle as is.
It will settle in a nice compact flat layer, then drain the vessel until you reach the tap, then _*carefully*_ tilt and put a wooden block or whatever under the back leg.

From my personal experience I found that I get more clear wort that way as there's no cone that could possibly 'tip over', the wort will just run over your flat layer *when done carefully*.

If I no chill I always start my run off when the temp hits 93 degrees, by then I have a compact layer of crap down the bottom and I can be confident that the wort is still hot enough for some decent pasteurisation happening in the cube. YMMV though.

EDIT: Might just be worth pointing out that this is specifically applicable for the BM, as the tap seems somewhat higher than other boil vessels.


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## sillyboybrybry (29/6/13)

A hot tip I should mention as I came close to being undone today. Your grain must be milled if you are using a braumeister.


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## Florian (29/6/13)

yeah, that's clearly one of the down sides compared to traditional 3 vessel brewing.


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## Kranky (29/6/13)

Florian said:


> Another way of doing it, and that's how I've done it for well over a year now, is to not whirlpool at all.
> 
> Use some good kettle finings like brew brite or whirlflock and just let the stuff settle as is.
> It will settle in a nice compact flat layer, then drain the vessel until you reach the tap, then _*carefully*_ tilt and put a wooden block or whatever under the back leg.
> ...


This is what I do. After it's chilled I just let it sit for about 20 minutes then start to drain and as others have said, gently tilt the BM as it gets low. I found this is better than trying to whirlpool.

When I first got the BM I'd decant the last 8 or nine litres into 5l demijohns and then put them in the fridge overnight before putting them in with the beer but this was a pita.


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## Batz (29/6/13)

Pratty1 said:


> image.jpg
> 
> The photo is upside down...lol. You get the idea of the pickup tube though.



Yes, use one of these and you'll drain most of your wort without tilting.


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## Black n Tan (29/6/13)

sillyboybrybry said:


> I knew my mash paddle wasn't big enough. My wife said it was fine. She said she hadn't ever seen any bigger.


It because she is having a bit of my new big shiny new mash paddle on the side


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## mckenry (16/10/13)

So, are G&G, Marks homebrew and craftbrewer still the only 3 sellers of BM?


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