# Building A Mash/lauter Tun



## lou (10/7/04)

Hey guys

i'm want to build a mash lauter tun - got an esky and am looking at building one of 

those copper lautering manifolds for the bottom. No problems with the design but whats the best way to connect the corner fittings - 
you shouldn't use lead solder of course - do i need an oxytorch or what - could i just use some sort of glue. 

and will a hacksaw do the job for making the slots 

appreciate the advice 

lou


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## dicko (10/7/04)

Lou,
I built mine by silver soldering the pipes and fittings but I have since found out that some guys just push them together and hit them with a centre pop to locate them.
The joints dont have to seal as such to work effectively and they can be taken apart for cleaning.
A hacksaw is fine for the slots, just cut the slots BEFORE you assemble the manifold.
I made mine to the design and specifications in John Palmer's How To Brew book or you can view the article on the web.
You can have a look at mine in the "gallery section" on this site under Dicko's Brewery.
Cheers


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## JasonY (10/7/04)

Lou depending on the design you may not even need to solder. Mine is a ring with a tee piece for the take off. I just press the pipe into the tee piece and it is a nice snug fit. If you are a crazy stirer you could knock it out but I have yet to have this problem.


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## Doc (10/7/04)

Mine use the plumbers compression fittings. The pvc pipe is held together with the compression fittings. The only thing is if you aren't a plumber the tool is really expensive. (My father-in-law is a plumber).

My holes I did with a drill.

Beers,
Doc


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## Jazman (10/7/04)

well my manifold i have no welds so i can pull it apart easily but on some of the joints i closed it a bit in the vice so it is a tight fitting joint and takes a bit of effort to pull apart that was mk1 no probs so far will get a bigger one soon


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## Jovial_Monk (10/7/04)

Definitely recoomend drilling holes rather than cutting slots

Easier to do neatly, copper tube retains more strength

1/8" holes are fine

Jovial Monk


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## Guest Lurker (11/7/04)

My 0.02

If the joins leak it makes the manifold more efficient. I just pushed together, put a screwdriver on the fitting, gave a tap with a hammer. Secure fit but could probably be pulled apart if I ever needed to. But I didnt do the joins into the outlet t piece, so the whole manifold swings up for cleaning.

Casing in pumping wells is always slotted, not drilled, because in a sandy aquifer once sand and gravel have packed against the pipe, holes tend to get fully blocked while slots always have some open area and drain more efficiently. 

I figure grain husks act in a similar way, so I am a slotter, not a driller. Took me about 2 hrs to hand slot with a hacksaw.


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## RobW (12/7/04)

What about a bazooka style using one of those stainless Easy Hooker fittings? Dead easy & works like a charm.


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## Darren (12/7/04)

Just my 0.02,
I would make it so it can be pulled apart, no solder. Eventually these things fill with small particles of grain and are difficult to clean. This would be an ideal "hiding" spot for heat resistent spoilage organisms.
What ever you use make sure you can clean it inside.
My experince was that holes tended to get plugged with ends of grains. Hacksawed slots were better for run-off. 
D


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## Snow (12/7/04)

Definitely use compression fittings. I did hacksaw slots and they work very well. Here's a picture of my manifold. I got everything from Tradelink.
Yes, I know it's crooked <_<


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## lou (12/7/04)

KenEasy said:


> What about a bazooka style using one of those stainless Easy Hooker fittings?


 what is this and where do i get it


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## Darren (12/7/04)

KenEasy said:


> What about a bazooka style using one of those stainless Easy Hooker fittings? Dead easy & works like a charm.


 I assume it one of those rubber hoses that are covered in a stainless braid. The idea is to cut off the ends and pull the rubber hose out of the middle. You are then left with a hollow stainless hose.
FWIW it didn't work for for me. I may have pulled too hard on it. (Story of my life) Maybe too much flour in the early days clogged it up. Once it is clogged it is clogged for good. I hated have to dive my arm into mash-temp grain to pull the bloody thing out.
Other people have had better experiences with them.
I also tried Termi-mesh but it also clogged


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## RobW (12/7/04)

Lou

It's as Darren described. Once the rubber hose is gone you can reattach the end fitting to the braid with a hoseclip & it screws straight on to the nipple. I've used one for 4 or 5 mashes so far without any sticking.


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## Snow (12/7/04)

At the request of Chiller, I should point out that the manifold in my tun, above, has the slots facing downwards to maximise drainage capacity. I just had them pointing up to show the design. For those interested, here is the rest of the plumbing on the outside of the tun:


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## lou (15/7/04)

Was looking round for a way to attach a tap to my esky - my one doesn't have a drainage hole.  The guy at the hardware store said there was no way you coulld attach a tap and run a mainfold off it. has to be a good seal. Has anyone tried drilling a hole in an esky? And what sort of fittings do you use. and where do ya gettem?



I may save up and buy another esky with drainge hole as i got the last one for $6 at a life line store but its only 15 L ( how many kilos of grain can i do in it ya rekon, i thinking 3.5Kg)

any way I'm going to set up a siphon connected manifold for now so i won't need a tap but i've seen the pictures and i know its possible somehow? But i still am not sure what sort of fittings are on the pictures

any advice 

lou


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## SJW (15/7/04)

OK LOU,
Your about right with your grain capacity for 15 litres, i am doing 4kg's in mine tomorrow. Anyway i asked all these questions about drilling thru eski's & taps & stuff and it was far easier, for me, to go for the old "up "n" over, as described in the Palmer book. Just make sure u install a tap fitting to your hose to regulate rate at which you lauter at.
Also cut the vertical pipe short enough so it fits in the esky with the lid on, so there is no need to cut any holes in the esky, so if there is ever a day when your not mashing in it you & the little Mrs can fill the esky with a little bit of cold chicken, bread rolls, a couple of custard tarts and a bottle of your finest and go for a picnic in the country. :wub:
(sorry about all that crap i just got carried away) :wacko:


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## Trough Lolly (15/7/04)

The wonders of syphoning!
Did you notch the lid so you can leave the copper in place with the lid on so you minimise heat loss?
TL


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## dicko (15/7/04)

Lou,
When you are ready to get an esky or cooler that is for the purpose of a mash tun then get a bulkhead fitting which is a length of thread( usually brass or stainless steel ) two nuts to fit the thread and a tap or ball valve to fit also.
Drill a hole in the esky the size of the bulkhead thread and fit it through with the two nuts and seal it with silastic that they use to assemble fish aquariums. You could also use a couple of fibre or rubber washers if you wish.
Make a copper manifold like the one Snows pictured above and fit to the inside and there you have it.
If you are considering doing full mashes you will need a thirty litre esky as an absolute minimium but preferably forty litres will be better for making higher SG beers.
John Palmers " How to Brew" outlines the design for the manifold.

Cheers


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## big d (15/7/04)

i must agree with dicko on the mash esky/cooler size.i started with a 20 ish litre size cooler and now wish i went bigger as inveriably you will do a recipe that will be big on grain and if using a size as i purchased you will push it to the max.it makes the mash interesting size wise but the extra space comes in handy.btw i use a s/s braid hose and have had no problems thus far.

cheers
big d


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## sosman (15/7/04)

If you want to get some inspiration on various types of manifold (copper, ss braid, falst bottom) then over time I have collected a few pics and stuck them in:

brewiki: manifold gallery

Whether this has got much to do with the design I have no idea but using the mashtun in the second pic on that page (figure 8 SS braid), I got over 90% efficiency on my second AG. Maybe I will never hit that again but we will see.


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## wedge (15/7/04)

I work at a Hardware like store and talk to the suppliers of the easy hookers as i was planning on using these as my piping the brewery. The problem is they are rated for water up to almost boiling, however they are not rated for anything acidic, ie hot wort. This would ware away at the hoses. I was pretty keen to use them but thought better of it.

I saw tonight snowys has a 10 gallon esky, tubular not square, for $120. Pretty damn good. Coleman though not rubber made. It may not be cool but it will do the job. 

As for the manifold i did something similar to Doc manifold using polyethylene piping and brass fitting the same stuff their starting to use in houses now. Only because the price was similar.... maybe even cheaper and ifts much easier to cut and drill poly then it is copper. However copper is just as good. As for the slotted drilled arguments i live by the saying....*Different Strokes for Different Blokes* Provided you put in enough holes their should be no probs.


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## RobW (16/7/04)

wedge said:


> I work at a Hardware like store and talk to the suppliers of the easy hookers as i was planning on using these as my piping the brewery. The problem is they are rated for water up to almost boiling, however they are not rated for anything acidic, ie hot wort. This would ware away at the hoses.


 They are OK in the mash tun though because you remove the rubber hose & the mash pH won't worry the stainless components.


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## Doc (16/7/04)

wedge said:


> As for the manifold i did something similar to Doc manifold using polyethylene piping and brass fitting the same stuff their starting to use in houses now.


 My god that pic looks very deja-vu  
Wedge, I also put a mesh filter bag over my manifold. Makes the runoff clearer quicker and helps avoid a stuck sparge when doing big beers and wheat beers.

Looks the buisness.

Beers,
Doc


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## dicko (16/7/04)

I was just talking to Dave Stewart from Goliaths and apparently on Sat 24th there is a guy doing a mash at the shop with a grain bag of shade cloth like material in an esky and from all reports it works really well.
A different approach to manifolds.
Might be worth a look for the Adelaide guys. :blink:

Damn it !!!!!  
I dont think I can make it to the brew session unless my daughter in Adelaide can give birth to her first child about a week early and then the missus will be there for the birth of course. Well I might as well just tag along as well.
Not my scene - childbirth. :unsure: 
But brewing with a new technique, yep!!! sounds good.  
Could wet the newborn babes head. Yep! Any excuse. :chug: :chug: :chug: 
Cheers


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## lou (17/7/04)

Ok I think I got this sorted out now

I think for my proper mash lauter tun I will get a nice big 25-30L esky with drain hole. the only thing I'm not sure how to get is the 1/2 inch threaded pipe. My local hardware store has the taps/washers etc but the only threaded pipe they had was brass and brass isn't food safe. think i may have to go to an engineering place to get a SS one made up. if it isn't too expensive

Question 

how hard is it to take out the tap of an esky - ive seen the screw piece on the inside but what is the hole size - is it threaded, 

lou

brew on B)


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## lou (17/7/04)

Ok I think I got this sorted out now

I think for my proper mash lauter tun I will get a nice big 25-30L esky with drain hole. the only thing I'm not sure how to get is the 1/2 inch threaded pipe. My local hardware store has the taps/washers etc but the only threaded pipe they had was brass and brass isn't food safe. think i may have to go to an engineering place to get a SS one made up. if it isn't too expensive

Question 

how hard is it to take out the tap of an esky - ive seen the screw piece on the inside but what is the hole size - is it threaded, 

lou

brew on B)


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## Jazman (17/7/04)

well brass is ok doenst need to be fod safe as u boil the wort and that is sanitized


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## dicko (17/7/04)

Lou,
You can buy Stainless steel bulkhead fittings and nuts.
Try the Brisbane branch of Tube Fittings. ( I thinks that is what they are called )
Lots of people use brass with no ill effect.
Some US suppliers offer their systems with brass and stainless as a more expensive option.
Cheers


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## Crispy (17/7/04)

Here is my Mash Tun, picked it up earlier this week

36 Litre "Keep Cold" Cooler - $85+gst


Cheers,

Crispy


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## JSB (17/7/04)

Same for me Crispy $77+GST

Cheers
JSB


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## Crispy (17/7/04)

and here is the manifold,

I used grade 18 pressure pipe, which should handle the temp and is food safe (grade 12 presure pipe is not food safe, due to the higher lead content).

Slots are cut halfway through at about 10mm spacing on the underside.

(yes GMK it is a square, not a bloody octagon) :lol: 

Have'nt tested it out yet, 


Cheers,

Crispy


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## dreamboat (17/7/04)

I never heard anything about a differing lead content before - in fact I find it very difficult to believe. CLass 18 PVC has a thicker wall than Class 12.... etc. Outside diameters stay the same, just smaller bore for higher pressure rating. All PVC is considered safe for potable water.
All fittings down at these type of small sizes are Class 18 rated, unless you can find some of the cheap and dodgy stuff imported from the USA.


dreamboat


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## dicko (17/7/04)

I think I read in John Palmer's book about lead in brass, and from memory I think you treat it with vinegar or at least some sort of acid to make it safe.
I am not sure and anyone thinking about using brass might do some reading.
Cheers


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## Crispy (17/7/04)

hmmmm, 

difficult as some may find it to believe,  

I spent good hour at a reputable plumbing supply store yesterday, when they were unable to answer my questions about the temp ratings and food grade compatibility of PVC piping, they called the manufacturer, who apparently said, and which was then passed on to me, "Do not use grade 12, because the lead content is too high and it is not food safe"

Now, this is just a wild guess, but I'm tipping that the company that makes this stuff, may just have a fair idea of the chemical composition of their own product.

I chose to take a gamble, and believe them.  


Cheers

Crispy


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## dicko (17/7/04)

My apologies Dreamboat and Crispy,
I thought you were talking about the lead that is in brass.
I wasn't aware that there is lead in PVC.
Cheers


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## Kai (18/7/04)

Non food grade PVC may use lead as a stabiliser. Use it if you can accept the risk that one day you might want to marry your horse.


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## sosman (18/7/04)

lou said:


> I think for my proper mash lauter tun I will get a nice big 25-30L esky with drain hole. the only thing I'm not sure how to get is the 1/2 inch threaded pipe. My local hardware store has the taps/washers etc but the only threaded pipe they had was brass and brass isn't food safe. think i may have to go to an engineering place to get a SS one made up. if it isn't too expensive
> 
> Question
> 
> ...


 I have used a 26 litre esky for a mashtun a few times and it is not really big enough for a full grain (can be done though). If you are buying a new one consider something over 36 litres (I have 48L).

There are pictures here of the bits that I took out of my esky YMMV depending on brand.

brewiki: allgrain #2

The inside of my bunghole (actually my esky's) is not threaded.

I used brass pipe and dissolved the surface lead according to John Palmer at howtobrew.com. Ie 1 part hydrogen peroxide and 2 parts white vinegar (check his site for more details).


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## johnno (18/7/04)

dicko said:


> I was just talking to Dave Stewart from Goliaths and apparently on Sat 24th there is a guy doing a mash at the shop with a grain bag of shade cloth like material in an esky and from all reports it works really well.
> A different approach to manifolds.
> Might be worth a look for the Adelaide guys. :blink:


 dicko or anyone else that may get to see this. I would be interested in trying this method. I brought this up on a thread here previously and not much was said about it.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...hl=calico&st=30
It would be very interesting to try this method I reckon.
Hopefully some body that goes will post some feedback.

cheers


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## sosman (18/7/04)

Jazman said:


> well brass is ok doenst need to be fod safe as u boil the wort and that is sanitized


 Boiling the wort does not remove lead.


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## Jazman (18/7/04)

weel read palmers book he is a metualugest and from brass there is bugger all lead to be worried about ine the components i use brass in my tun like lots of other brewers and i got stainless in my kettle cause i can get it but a lot of other brewers also use brass in thre kettles like Jovila Monk i personlay dont see a big problem with it but take a bit of caution from the brass to stainless as being disimailr metals


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## wedge (18/7/04)

I think sometimes we all need to just relax. SS is better brass has lead. But it cant be that much if vinegar can remove ut. 

I'm no expert but i reckon we dont have to worry about obly 35 litres running through a brass tap. I'd be more worried about the lead contact in the air we all breath


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## dicko (18/7/04)

Hi Johnno,
I dont think I'll make it on Saturday but I'm sure someone on here will let you know how it all goes.
Cheers


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## sosman (19/7/04)

> weel read palmers book he is a metualugest



And what does John have to say about cleaning the surface lead off brass:

http://howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html

"Some brewers use brass fittings in conjunction with their wort chillers or other brewing equipment and are concerned about the lead that is present in brass alloys. A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 5-10 minutes at room temperature."

He is not saying lead is a problem - I am not saying it is a problem. I was just stating that the contaminants in brass are not removed by boiling.

Many brewers I know of clean their brass using this method. Brass varies in lead content but IIRC it is around 3%. It is such a simple procedure that it is easy to play it safe.


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## sosman (19/7/04)

> SS is better brass has lead. But it cant be that much if vinegar can remove ut.



Well since wort is acidic, what you don't dissolve with vinegar is likely to end up in your beer.


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## sosman (19/7/04)

lou said:


> Was looking round for a way to attach a tap to my esky - my one doesn't have a drainage hole.  The guy at the hardware store said there was no way you coulld attach a tap and run a mainfold off it. has to be a good seal. Has anyone tried drilling a hole in an esky? And what sort of fittings do you use. and where do ya gettem?


I did this with my first (smaller) esky.

I drilled though the outer skin and foam insulation with a hole saw. Make sure you leave enough clearance to get a spanners etc onto the nuts you use.

Then you drill the inner skin to take the pipe/fitting you are using. Lets say you are using half inch BSP threaded brass. The hole is a bit over 20mm. Then you just clamp it to the inner skin with nuts. If your tap has a flange already then you just need a nut on the inside. I sealed this with an o-ring.

Its not a closeup but you can see where I drilled out the outer casing here:


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## dreamboat (26/7/04)

IF there really is an issue with the foodsafe ability of class 12 PVC, then I would suggest that everyone who reads this gives up on drinking any water that comes out of their taps at home, as it has almost certainly passed through some class 12 or 9 PVC before it gets there.

Better to be safe than sorry - especially if that is the official word from the PVC manufacturer.









And put on your tinfoil caps while you are at it!


dreamboat


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## Backlane Brewery (16/2/05)

Picked up a couple of 20l food grade buckets from behind the local Subway last night. Won't eat their food, happy to nick their rubbish.  
Thinking of making a "bucket-in-bucket" mash tun. Drill the bottom of one full of 3mm holes, put a tap on the other, insulate with one of those camping mats cut to size.
May also add a probe type thermometer and a small electric element.
Has anyone tried this method? Papazian recommends it, I know, but is it a waste of time? Should we just save up for a big Esky with an SS braid manifold?
The main attraction ATM is low cost and simplicity.


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## GMK (16/2/05)

I have made one this way.

I got advice from Wes Smith at Maltcraft ref the size of the holes - he said to go 1.5-1.75mm.

3mm is too big.

It will take a long time.

Alternatively, get a dremel with a cutting wheel and mark out slits and cut them with that - will take half the time.

Hope this helps


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## RobW (16/2/05)

How about a SS braid straight into the (well insulated) bucket? Easier than drilling all those holes.


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## pint of lager (16/2/05)

Many many people have gone down the bucket in bucket mash/sparge tun. It is cheap and works well. It is your choice, what you can scrounge, how much you spend and how handy you are. Every homemade brewery is a unique mixture.

Make sure the bucket is spotless. Some of the pickle bucket take a long time soaking to get rid of the pickle aroma. Sour cream and mayonaise buckets are better.

Use a tap that you can regulate the flow rate with.

Minimize the gap between the two buckets, the dead space.

Have fun.

My old bucket in bucket served me well for many brews, until I went all SS. Now it makes a great strainer for malting grain.

As you said, low cost and simplicity.

Clean 20 litre buckets and lids are very very handy in the brewery. Storing grain, weighing grain out, washing up brew gear, using to drop wort into for aerating, keeping one full of sanitiser on brewday for soaking equipment and you will work out other uses. Picking fruit for fruit wine, primary fermenting of fruit wine and washing the dog are more uses of the useful bucket.


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## kungy (16/2/05)

Backlane brewery, have you thought about using a bung tap setup ALA denny conn

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/#BREWING%20WITH

Will


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## kungy (16/2/05)

or 

http://cruisenews.net/brewing/decoction/page1.php


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## kungy (16/2/05)

or 

http://cruisenews.net/brewing/decoction/page1.php


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## Batz (16/2/05)

Interested in buying a mash tun already made?

5 Gallon Rubbermaid ?

Batz


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## Backlane Brewery (16/2/05)

PMed you Batz.


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## SteveSA (16/2/05)

I started out with a bucket in bucket. The biggest drawback is the deadspace (about 2L) and the size restriction for the mash (only about 16-17L usable space)

3mm holes are fine. In my experience I never had a problem with them. Just drill the holes from the bottom and don't bother deburring them as the burrs will help catch the bottom of the grain bed.

POL,
You must have a very small dog or a very large 20L bucket 

Steve


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## morry (16/2/05)

This is what Ive used. Im still scrounging around for last few bits, but the Zapap tun should do the trick. I think I used 3mm holes. 

And Steve, thanks for the tip about deburring, I was a bit worried about bits breaking off and ending up in the boil but meh.


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## Backlane Brewery (17/2/05)

> Some of the pickle buckets take a long time soaking to get rid of the pickle aroma.



PoL, how did you know it was a pickle bucket? Psychic or what? :blink: 

The rat was in it when I picked it up behind the local Subway, honest. Another reason not to eat there.

Bucket is currently getting a good long soak in Napisan.


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## quincy (17/2/05)

Jeez BB. After seeing the pic - are u sure napisan is enough !!


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## Backlane Brewery (15/3/05)

Well, I answered the burning question- can Home Brand Napisan get the smell out of a Subway pickle bucket with 3 weeks of soaking and several changes of water?
NO.  

Pricing/buying a 30-40l esky this weekend. :angry: 
While I think of it, is there a trick to getting the rubber pipe out of those SS braid fittings? I was thinking just cutting off one end & getting the pliers in seemed too easy. May be better off doing both ends & joining to a T-piece a la Sosman's pic on Brewiki. :huh:


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## mikem108 (15/3/05)

oooh yeah, some good samaritan at work was bringing in 20l containers that kalamata olives were imported in and offering them as fermenters.
I don't think anything will get rid of that pickling smell and we've tried everything including some nasty stuff that melted the plastic but did not remove that olivey smell!

No trick other than brute force for getting the pipe out of the SS braiding, I used pliers as you have suggested


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## Batz (15/3/05)

I just cut the ends off with an angle grinder and cut off wheel
Put the rubber hose in the vice , pull it out , I 've done heaps and it always been a snap , you can push the braid together this will increase the diameter of it making it easier to pull out the rubber inner hose

Batz


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## NRB (15/3/05)

The trick is to smear diswashing liquid onto the braid. The rubber insert will then come out with finger pressure.


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## wee stu (15/3/05)

NRB said:


> The trick is to smear diswashing liquid onto the braid. The rubber insert will then come out with finger pressure.
> [post="49179"][/post]​



Maybe it's just me, but I read that and look at NRB's avatar, and the connection with beer seems to escape me


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## NRB (15/3/05)

Beer and tits; our 2 favourite things. Sorry to go OT, but I felt it necessary to explain h34r: 

Just make sure you wash all the soap out of the braid Trevor.


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## deebee (15/5/05)

Well I made a manifold for my 45 litre esky today and went the stainless steel braided route despite having access to lots of free copper pipe. It was extremely easy even for a total unco like me. I am so glad I didn't spend hours measuring, sawing and slotting together a copper manifold (and it would have taken ME hours). If you are tool-challenged and wondering which way to go, the S/S braid is the go.

Now the copper pipe can all be dedicated to my chiller!!

For the manifold, I attached the ends of the braided wire to a t-shaped compression fitting that I had bought for the copper manifold option. Looks the goods and fits nice and snug through my esky's bunghole. Lucky esky! Just need a silicon washer to give a seal.

I nearly went the rubber washer option but don't really like the idea of rubber in the wort. The other thing I baulked at was galvanised washers inside the tun.

Question: what sort of washers do you use on the threaded pipe that goes through the esky wall? For the hard one I am guessing just plain steel? I couldn't find brass washers and galvanised washers seem wrong to me. For the soft one, I also couldn't find silicon washers and rubber doesn't seem right in beer.

Any thoughts on this?

cheers 
dee(getting-close-to-AG)bee


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## GMK (15/5/05)

I use Stainless Steel and fibre washers...


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## ausdb (16/5/05)

deebee said:


> Question: what sort of washers do you use on the threaded pipe that goes through the esky wall? For the hard one I am guessing just plain steel? I couldn't find brass washers and galvanised washers seem wrong to me. For the soft one, I also couldn't find silicon washers and rubber doesn't seem right in beer.
> [post="59167"][/post]​



Hi deebee
Does this mean we can look forward to a Bludgeon AG Ale in this years Sandgropers case? yum

Don't worry about looking for washers, just make sure you get the brass nuts which have a flange on them (Bunnings have them). If you are coming to Goats brewday I will bring my portable mash tun screen (fits a 45 or 54 qt esky) and you can see what I mean 

Cheers
Ausdb


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## Guest Lurker (16/5/05)

ausdb said:


> Don't worry about looking for washers, just make sure you get the brass nuts which have a flange on them (Bunnings have them). If you are coming to Goats brewday I will bring my portable mash tun screen (fits a 45 or 54 qt esky) and you can see what I mean
> 
> Cheers
> Ausdb
> [post="59170"][/post]​



Exactly, those flange nuts are great. Plumbing suppliers (Reeces) tell you they dont exist cos they only sell the small hex nuts. Its about the only useful plumbing piece that you need to go to Bunnings for. Before I found them I tried both a galv and a steel washer, both corroded incredibly fast and flaked crap into the beer.


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## deebee (16/5/05)

ausdb, Yes I will be there on Saturday and keen to see what a flange nut is. And an Blunt Instrument Ale MkII (AG) for the Chrissie Case might be a nice touch.


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## big d (16/5/05)

its only a drawing but you will get the idea of what a flange nut looks like deebee.


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## deebee (16/5/05)

Thanks for the pic bigd, that clears it up. I actually have these at home. I just wasn't sure whether it would cover up the hole in the esky wall and wanted a larger washer to make sure. I'll check.

I am still presuming that this won't seal and I will need a fibre, silicon or rubber washer between the flange nut and the esky wall.


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## RobW (16/5/05)

deebee said:


> I am still presuming that this won't seal and I will need a fibre, silicon or rubber washer between the flange nut and the esky wall.
> [post="59245"][/post]​



You may not. I have the same setup & if you snug the flange nuts up firm but not over tight they seem to seal OK. Caveat is you need to disassemble & wash it after each mash because a little bit always seems to end up between the tube & the sides of the hole in the esky wall. Only a couple of minutes though & well worth the effort - you can imagine what's likely to grow there between brews if you leave it.


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## ausdb (16/5/05)

RobW said:


> deebee said:
> 
> 
> > I am still presuming that this won't seal and I will need a fibre, silicon or rubber washer between the flange nut and the esky wall.
> ...



One neoprene O-ring between the inner flange nut and esky and a bit of teflon tape around the threaded pipe does the trick for me. As for taking it apart both of my eskys still get used as eskys and my partner does not approve of the stainless ball valve hanging out of the side in that mode so I clean mine routinely anyway.


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## sosman (16/5/05)

deebee said:


> Question: what sort of washers do you use on the threaded pipe that goes through the esky wall? For the hard one I am guessing just plain steel? I couldn't find brass washers and galvanised washers seem wrong to me. For the soft one, I also couldn't find silicon washers and rubber doesn't seem right in beer.
> [post="59167"][/post]​


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## Torsion (16/5/05)

sosman said:


> deebee said:
> 
> 
> > Question: what sort of washers do you use on the threaded pipe that goes through the esky wall? For the hard one I am guessing just plain steel? I couldn't find brass washers and galvanised washers seem wrong to me. For the soft one, I also couldn't find silicon washers and rubber doesn't seem right in beer.
> ...



Sosman, where did you get the S/S all thread in that pic? also, did you cut it down or get it in that length?

Cam


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## TidalPete (17/5/05)

Just ordered mine from www.geordi.com.au . They have 150mm lengths of stainless 1\2" BSP parallel all-thread for $15 each + postage ($12.50 to SE Qld) or can get longer lengths made to order if required. Also got SS BSP nuts if you want them.


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## TidalPete (17/5/05)

[/quote]
Exactly, those flange nuts are great.
[/quote]

Flanged nuts are the go alright. Got mine from Bunnings too. Am still looking for the stainless steel version if it exists. May eventually have to get a ss nut & washer welded together & re-tap the thread.


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## Torsion (17/5/05)

Tidalpete said:


> Just ordered mine from www.geordi.com.au . They have 150mm lengths of stainless 1\2" BSP parallel all-thread for $15 each + postage ($12.50 to SE Qld) or can get longer lengths made to order if required. Also got SS BSP nuts if you want them.
> [post="59349"][/post]​



Ah! will be ordering a couple of those somtime soon. Thanks for that.
Cam


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