# IPA Hopping Tips



## GundyBrewer (21/11/13)

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum, and fairly new to brewing, having only done three BIAB brews.

My fourth beer is going to be an American IPA, and I just wanted some tips with my hopping schedule. All the grain, hops and yeast have been ordered so I'm just trying to get my hopping schedule sorted. Recipe at the moment is as follows:

Boil Time: *60 min* 
Batch Size: * 23.5 liters * [SIZE=.9em] (fermentor volume) [/SIZE] 
Boil Size: * 27 liters * 
Boil Gravity: *1.052* [SIZE=.9em] (recipe based estimate) [/SIZE] 
Efficiency: * 70% * [SIZE=.9em] (brew house) [/SIZE] 


Target OG - 1.060


Target FG - 1.016


ABV - 5.79%


IBUs - 52.54

EBC - 17.0


Malt

5.2 kg

BB Ale Malt





80%

0.4 kg

BB Wheat Malt





6.2%

 0.3 kg

TF Medium Crystal Malt





4.6%

0.1 kg

Weyermann Melanoidin Malt





1.5%

0.5 kg

Weyermann Munich I Malt





7.7%

*6.5 kg*

*Total*

Single step infusion mash - 66C - 60min
Mash-out - 76C - 10min

Hops

Amount

Variety

Type

AA

Use

Time

IBU

10 g

Galaxy

Leaf/Whole

11.8

Boil

60 min

11.38

10 g

Simcoe

Pellet

13.5

Boil

60 min

14.33

15 g

Galaxy

Leaf/Whole

11.8

Boil

15 min

8.47

15 g

Simcoe

Pellet

13.5

Boil

15 min

10.66

15 g

Galaxy

Leaf/Whole

11.8

Boil

5 min

3.4

15 g

Simcoe

Pellet

13.5

Boil

5 min

4.28

10 g

Centennial

Pellet

9.2

Boil

0 min



10 g

Galaxy

Leaf/Whole

11.8

Boil

0 min



10 g

Simcoe

Pellet

13.5

Boil

0 min



30 g

Centennial

Pellet

9.2

Dry Hop

4 days



10 g

Galaxy

Leaf/Whole

11.8

Dry Hop

4 days



20 g

Simcoe

Pellet

13.5

Dry Hop

4 days





I'm fermenting it with Wyeast 1217PC at 18C.

I'm just wondering if I might be going a bit hard with the late and dry hops, given that it won't be a really big beer.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers


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## Yob (21/11/13)

Bit hard on the galaxy for my tastes, I'd push the galaxy to a late addition and go Simcoe all the way through. Use Simcoe for the work and get a galaxy burst at the end (and dry if you really want to push the passionfruit)

Not sure if you've played with those before and know what to expect?


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## GundyBrewer (21/11/13)

No I haven't used any of these hop varieties yet, but I'm trying to get a piney, resiny flavour out of the simcoe, and balance it out a bit with the citrus and fruitiness from the other two varieties. I've read that Galaxy can be a bit dominant so I might change it up to use more Centennial than Galaxy in the kettle.

Amount Variety AA% Time IBU
20 g Simcoe 13.5 60 min 28.65

15 g Centennial 11.8 15 min 6.61
15 g Simcoe 13.5 15 min 10.66

10 g Galaxy 11.8 5 min 3.4
10 g Simcoe 13.5 5 min 4.28
10 g Centennial 11.8 5 min 1.95

10 g Centennial 9.2 0 min 
10 g Galaxy 11.8 0 min 
10 g Simcoe 13.5 0 min

30 g Centennial 9.2 Dry Hop 4 days 
10 g Galaxy 11.8 Dry Hop 4 days 
20 g Simcoe 13.5 Dry Hop 4 days

Thanks for your help.


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## Yob (21/11/13)

Looks better mate (to me) and the formatting is much easier to read too.

Want pictures and tasting notes 

:icon_cheers:


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## DeGarre (22/11/13)

60m -15m - 5m -0m schedule is my current preferred one, with any bitters and pale ales/ipas. I would probably be a bit heavier with IBUs on the 60m than you, and less with 15/5 mins and to arrive at the total ibu. Just my personal preference.


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## /// (22/11/13)

Yes i am poking a bear with a stick, but its an APA at that Alc ;p. White Labs some time ago ran 100 US IPA's thru thier labs, 90% of them were 7%alc and 70 BU's. That being said, delete all those mid additions and go or just bittering and whirlpool. By the time you cool it via one of the HB type methods (cubes or immersion chiller) the hops would have fried off to bitterness. I have done lab testing, what ever the method and even with a quick run off, i get 50-70% of Bu contribution from just a 10 minute WP and run straight to a heat ex.

At minimum 3 gms/l of dry hops will give the hop flavour you need. Alot of the SoCal breweries i've happened to come across are now doing 'session IPA's'; which is the same WP and Dry hoping but at about 5-5.5 % alc. Funnily enough they sell more volume. I made one after I had a mates version this year (Thorn St Brewer, SD) and it went like hot cakes at a festival.

Also I'd cut right back on the crystal; no more than 2% with the melanoidin and munich unless you change it to Crystal 10 or 30 for my tastes and experience (silver medal at AIBA with a 1% Cystal IPA). One of my favs is Ballast Point Sculpin, check out the clone recipes, find em' on the interwebs, almost drank my body weight in it on the last visit. HAs more crystal than most, but is kinda killer.


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## Kranky (22/11/13)

Some good advice from Scotty.

Your recipe looks fairly similar to a pale ale I am hoping to do this weekend. With this style of beer a simple malt bill is all you need. As this is one of your first beers I'd personally just use a bit of crystal malt (say 2- 2.5%) and maybe about 4% carapils (for head retention and body). I definitely agree with Scotty's advice and cut back on the crystal. Too much crystal malt in a hoppy beer and you can kiss your hop aroma and flavour goodbye.

Your hop additions looks ok. After having made a lot of double ipa's I don't worry too much about multiple late additions, a 10 minute and flameout is the most I do, often just a flameout. I dry hop anywhere up to 10g/L but there's no way I'd do that with galaxy.

Make sure you don't add hops during primary fermentation as the hop oils released in dry hopping are volatile and will be blown off during the fermentation process. 

Also why dry hop for only 4 days? Most clone recipes for some of the best IPA's say to dry hop for 7 days, some longer. This is a matter of taste though, so if you want a lighter dry hop 4 days is fine. Keep in mind though that hop oils released during dry hopping are volatile and in my experience start to dissipate after about 3 weeks. If you cut the amount of time you dry hop that period seems to be shorter.

While I haven't used that yeast before I think you may find that your final gravity will be lower than 1016.

One final tip - if you have the patience don't rush the beer. I don't rack to secondary for at least 2 weeks, preferably 3.


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## /// (22/11/13)

The guys I mentioned, Thorn St, dry hop thier DIPA 3 times ... once at d rest, crash cool for 3 days, warm to 20c and then dry hop in 2 additions at 48 hour intervals. The hop flavor is ridicules, kinda like the time I was at band camp, and we used 30kg of wet hops into a hop back ...

I find too much crystal gives an iron or metallic flavour. My least favored beers are red/IRA or amber ales with lots of crystal and hops, tastes like a tin can to me.


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## Kranky (22/11/13)

I meant to dry hop my latest batch of Pliny the Elder clone twice but I forgot to add the second addition of dry hops. I only realised my error once I kegged it and started drinking it, so now I've got pliny light.


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## 2much2spend (22/11/13)

Get a hop sock and fill it so it in to the keg.


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## HalfWit (22/11/13)

/// said:


> The guys I mentioned, Thorn St, dry hop thier DIPA 3 times ... once at d rest, crash cool for 3 days, warm to 20c and then dry hop in 2 additions at 48 hour intervals. The hop flavor is ridicules, kinda like the time I was at band camp, and we used 30kg of wet hops into a hop back ...
> 
> I find too much crystal gives an iron or metallic flavour. My least favored beers are red/IRA or amber ales with lots of crystal and hops, tastes like a tin can to me.


I was planning on doing a Red IPA, and you have me worried now. Ill probably use a lager yeast. Would this grain bill be okay or am I complicating things?

Wey Pils 80%
Caraaroma 7%
Carapils 4%
Melanoidin 5%
Med Crystal 2%
Roast Barley to colour

Sorry for the hijack.


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## mje1980 (22/11/13)

7% cara aroma is going to dominate and clash with the hops IMHO. It's a lot, and it's quite a strong flavour. Why a lager yeast?,


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## HalfWit (22/11/13)

Hi mje1980, actually im planning on using German Ale yeast at 13C which will turn out more Lager like than Ale. Trying to make it my 1st house yeast. I like the idea of collecting the yeast off the top midway through ferment, and it went very well in my last APA/IPA. What would be a safe percentage of Cara aroma to use?


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## mje1980 (22/11/13)

I wouldn't use any for an IPA, just use the RB for colour. Use like .5-1%. Melanoiden could go too. I'd go 2% carapils and 2% med crystal looking at your recipe. Though I don't like crystal in IPAs, so I might be biased. I like em dry. Using the wey pils should give you enough maltiness to nicely compliment the hops without being cloying. Mash low and use lots of late hops. My .02c. /// is a professional brewer so definately take his advice too. He's unfortunately also a cyclist, so keep that in mind ( hi scotty! ).


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## HalfWit (22/11/13)

Thanks mje1980, Ill probably drop the crystal as well. And /// advice is always very appreciated and adhered to.


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## /// (22/11/13)

I disagree with the use of things like hop sock, to do the job properly the hops need full exposure to the beer, cant gaurantee that with a hop sock or bag. And they fall out easy with a bit of cooling.

But I agree with Mark, too much time on a bike makes strange things happen ... like inappropriately tight lycra ...


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## contrarian (22/11/13)

Have been enjoying this thread as I will be brewing an IPA tomorrow although the thought of homebrewers in tight lycra has pretty much ruined my afternoon, thanks fellas!


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## /// (22/11/13)

I'm lucky I can test BU's, the pickup from whirlpool no matter the brewery (HB or Pro) is at minimum 30%. Adding all the mid-additions without knocking back the initial hopping will see over-bittering. One beer I make is bittered from the first hops at 5 BU, the whirlpool hops add 20 Bu's ... 

Dont worry mate, there is a sub-culture of lycra in the illawarra, only one of us rides hundreds of kilometres from home, and as yet none is know to brew in said gear ...


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## Ross (22/11/13)

/// said:


> I disagree with the use of things like hop sock, to do the job properly the hops need full exposure to the beer, cant gaurantee that with a hop sock or bag. And they fall out easy with a bit of cooling.
> 
> But I agree with Mark, too much time on a bike makes strange things happen ... like inappropriately tight lycra ...


Using a bag properly does not limit exposure of hops to the beer... Sierra Nevada use hop bags in their hoppiest ales...

We have to use bags in our hoppiest beers, but then with the volume we use just letting them fall out doesn't help


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## HalfWit (22/11/13)

So back on the off topic, what would you add to a sesionable Red IPA grain bill that had Weyermann as a base?


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## GundyBrewer (22/11/13)

Thanks for the tips. I'm locked in with my grain bill, got posted home this week but I'll definitely throw in less crystal malt next time I try a similar beer. I'll perhaps substitute the wheat for a bit of rye as well. 

I'll go for 4-5 g/L of dry hops and do them for a week to try and get the hop flavours in over the maltiness.


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## hoppy2B (22/11/13)

For my taste 100 grams of Caraaroma wouldn't be too much in an IPA, as long as I didn't have any other crystal in there. It depends on which yeast you are using though, so 50 grams would be safer.
TF dark crystal is just too sharp and toffee like for an IPA. Don't know if the medium is much better. Caraaroma just gives a malty caramel flavour and deeper colour.
I've gone off IPA's a bit and especially IPA's without a bit of malt in there as they can just taste a bit too vegetable. I also prefer lower IBU's so I can pick up the different flavours better.
IPA's are easy. Just dump a heap of flameout hops in and no chill.


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## /// (23/11/13)

Kinda have to disagree on the hop bagging Ross, but you and I disagree on stuff all the time ;p. Used em at 2 plants without success, may work better in a smaller environment I guess.

Vegetative flavous I'm guessing are from too long exposure ... i may at 3 days at d rest, 4 days chill and the beer is kegged and gone.


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## Spiesy (23/11/13)

Sorry if I've missed this, but you're chilling method is crucial to the amount of late hopping you should do. 

Do you chill?


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## GundyBrewer (24/11/13)

Spiesy, I haven't got a wort chiller, I put my wort into a cube, throw it in the pool, then put it in the freezer with a wet towel over it. Since I don't chill, does that mean that I should do my biggest hop addition at whirlpool to maintain the hop aromas?


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## Markbeer (24/11/13)

Some people such as myself have sensitive tastebuds to vegetative/herbal/grassy flavours some hops give. Sone love that flavour some hate it.

I have often heard on podcasts from numerous US pros that they dry hop for as little as one day up to 3 only to avoid those vegetable harsh flavours. And some were dry hopping rediculous amounts in hop socks. Like over 5g a litre.

Their thoughts were the goodness is given onto the beer more quickly than the badness.

Me i prefer hop bursting.


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## Yob (24/11/13)

GundyBrewer said:


> Spiesy, I haven't got a wort chiller, I put my wort into a cube, throw it in the pool, then put it in the freezer with a wet towel over it. Since I don't chill, does that mean that I should do my biggest hop addition at whirlpool to maintain the hop aromas?


Yes.. Or in the cube.. Recently, I only do a single kettle addition, rest into the cube.


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## piraterum (25/11/13)

Hey guys,

This thread has given me some pointers I’d like to incorporate in a brew I’m doing this weekend.

I hopping to brew an American Pale ale with plenty of floral, citrus and pine hop flavour. Around 5.5% ABV and 40-45 IBU.

I was initially going to use the hop schedule below, but after reading this thread I’m keen to change scrap the mid additions so there are just bittering and late additions.

As Scotty said whirlpool additions can provide the majority of the IBU’s. I’m using Beersmith (v2) which doesn’t calculate late addition IBU contribution very well. Should I list the whirlpool additions as 10 mins additions so I can get a more accurate estimated IBU?

I've got plenty of hops so amounts aren't an issue including US Magnum, Simcoe, Chinook, Columbus, Cascade and Centennial. My only concern is the hop trub building up and blocking the fermenter tap.

The estimated IBU (53.6) in Beersmith appears to be overestimated for partial brews. Previous brews I’ve done were estimated at 37 IBU and they weren’t bitter enough.

As I’m doing a partial should I add the extracts straight to fermenter? In the past I’ve always added at last 15mins of boil and added 10-15% to account for decreased hop utilisation. What are the pros and cons of 15 mins vs straight into the fermenter?


Recipe Specifications (Partial Mash)

Boil Size: 9.50 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l 
Estimated OG: 1.056 SG
Estimated Color: 15.6 EBC
Estimated IBU: 53.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 72.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes


Ingredients:

------------

Amt Name 

1.80 kg Pilsner (Weyermann) (4.0 EBC)
0.30 kg Crystal (Joe White) (130.0 EBC)
1.50 kg Pale Liquid Extract [Boil for 15 min]
1.00 kg Light Dry Extract [Boil for 15 min]


10.00 g Magnum [12.20 %] - Boil 60.0 min

10.00 g Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 30.0 min
10.00 g Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.60 %] - Boil 30 min

15.00 g Cascade [5.60 %] - Boil 20.0 min 
15.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min

15.00 g Cascade [5.60 %] - Boil 10.0 min
15.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min

40.00 g Cascade [5.60 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min
40.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 m

1.0 pkg US-05 (Yeast Starter)


Mash in 66-67 °C for 60 mins

Mash out 75.6- 76.7°C for 15 mins


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## nu_brew (25/11/13)

Yes.. Or in the cube.. Recently, I only do a single kettle addition, rest into the cube.


Yeah I'm getting good flavour and aroma from cube hopping.


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## piraterum (28/11/13)

Released on 26th Nov 2013 Beersmith 2.2


Support for Steeped/Whirlpool Hop IBUs :beerbang:

http://beersmith.com/blog/2013/11/26/beersmith-2-2-desktop-released/


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## GundyBrewer (28/11/13)

Brew day was yesterday, I ended up going for this hopping schedule.

Amount Variety AA% Time IBU
20 g Simcoe 13.5 60 min 28.65

15 g Centennial 11.8 0 min (WP)
15 g Simcoe 13.5 0 min (WP)

20 g Galaxy 11.8 Cube
20 g Simcoe 13.5 Cube
20 g Centennial 11.8 Cube

30 g Centennial 9.2 Dry Hop 5d
20 g Galaxy 11.8 Dry Hop 5d
30 g Simcoe 13.5 Dry Hop 5d

I mashed at about 64-65 degrees to try and make it a bit drier. My grains were already ordered mixed and I wasn't keen to pick the crystals out one by one.

I haven't had Ballast Point Sculpin yet but I've had Ballast Point Big Eye and enjoyed it, and it looks and tastes like it might have a decent bit of crystal in it too.

Gunna hit it with some Wyeast 1217 later on today anyway.


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## bmarshall (28/11/13)

Thats a lot of tasty hops.
We must have similar tastes.
Ive way under hopped all of my brews so far.
Im going with the theory of just doubbling my estimated schedule every time.


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## Conestoga (14/12/13)

/// said:


> Yes i am poking a bear with a stick, but its an APA at that Alc ;p. White Labs some time ago ran 100 US IPA's thru thier labs, 90% of them were 7%alc and 70 BU's. That being said, delete all those mid additions and go or just bittering and whirlpool. By the time you cool it via one of the HB type methods (cubes or immersion chiller) the hops would have fried off to bitterness. I have done lab testing, what ever the method and even with a quick run off, i get 50-70% of Bu contribution from just a 10 minute WP and run straight to a heat ex.
> 
> At minimum 3 gms/l of dry hops will give the hop flavour you need. Alot of the SoCal breweries i've happened to come across are now doing 'session IPA's'; which is the same WP and Dry hoping but at about 5-5.5 % alc. Funnily enough they sell more volume. I made one after I had a mates version this year (Thorn St Brewer, SD) and it went like hot cakes at a festival.
> 
> Also I'd cut right back on the crystal; no more than 2% with the melanoidin and munich unless you change it to Crystal 10 or 30 for my tastes and experience (silver medal at AIBA with a 1% Cystal IPA). One of my favs is Ballast Point Sculpin, check out the clone recipes, find em' on the interwebs, almost drank my body weight in it on the last visit. HAs more crystal than most, but is kinda killer.


Great post. I've been making my IPA's with bittering charges, 30m hop stands with flame out additions only, and then high dose short term dry hops. I refuse to buy any off the shelves anymore. The results have been that good.


7% @ 70IBU really is the US standard for IPA it seems, and you're not kidding about the session IPA's being popular. I have mixed feelings about them, as it seems like a gimmick more than anything else. They were a huge end cap item this past summer, with Founder's All Day IPA leading the charge. They could easily be marketed as APA's in my opinion, but that doesn't have as much mass appeal I suppose.

The only one I would say was hopped enough to be called a SIPA is Brooklyn Scorcher, and it just doesn't go well at such a low gravity. Even the Founders beer listed above could use more of a malt backbone, but it's good.

So far, my respect goes to Maine Beer Co as far as commercial examples go. Their Peeper Ale, and MO are shining examples of hitting the red line with hops on low gravity pale ale .. in a good way. All just one man's opinion though, of course ... 

Also, thanks for the Crystal/Melanoidin layering info. I have been wanting to do this, and had nowhere to start.


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## law-of-ohms (17/12/13)

Dry hopping my IPA with 100g of Citra too much?


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## JB (17/12/13)

It should be good, but might depend on your recipe scary clown. Imo citra is one I could go heavy with, especially dry hopping. If you can spare it then whack it in - what's the worst that can happen? 
I did read somewhere, someone mentioned making a hop tea using less hops & getting same results - but that's something I have to research first before recommending

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk


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## NewtownClown (17/12/13)

JB said:


> It should be good, but might depend on your recipe scary clown. Imo citra is one I could go heavy with, especially dry hopping. If you can spare it then whack it in - what's the worst that can happen?
> I did read somewhere, someone mentioned *making a hop tea* using less hops & getting same results - but that's something I have to research first before recommending
> 
> Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk


BYO magazine's Hop Lovers Guide printed in 2008 and still available from www.BYO.com


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## Donske (17/12/13)

Yob said:


> Yes.. Or in the cube.. Recently, I only do a single kettle addition, rest into the cube.



Finally gave this a crack the other day on an American amber, 1.5g/l each of cascade and ahtanum, smelt amazing going into the fermenter last night, I'll see how it comes out but if it's as nice as it smells I'll be using cube hopping to get a good supply of cubes up over my time off.


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## Yob (17/12/13)

Thjats the spirit!! Im at 6 cubes now but 2 of those are destined for an FV by the end of the week allowing me to punch out a double batch prior to xmas :beerbang:

6 is a good number to have at the ready h34r:

May your kegs always be full :beer:


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## law-of-ohms (17/12/13)

I did a "sort a" tea...

Put the 100g of Citra in a nylon stocking, tried it off and poured hot water over it to expand the pellets.

I hope there is enough, can I add more hops or will it taste like grass clipping?

I've got loads of hops and need to use them up....

This "Lighting IPA" currently has

50g of sazz for 60min boil (yes sazz)
??g Nelson Saviun @ 10min (?? becuase I was too pissed to remember by this stage)

Was ment to be ~60IBU i think .

So I've put in 100g of Citra now, and I have :-


Type AA% CU% Notes
AHTANUM™ 5-8% 30-35 Floral, citrus, lemon
CASCADE 5-9% 33-40 Lychees, floral, grapefruit
CENTENNIAL 7-12% 29-30 Lemon, herbal, resinous
CHALLENGER 5-9% 20-25 Spicy, cedar, green tea
CHINOOK 11-15% 29-35 Grapefruit, citrus, pine
CITRA™ 11-14% 22-24 Mango, tropical fruit, lime
CLUSTER 6-9% 37-43 Blackberry, spicy
EKG 5-8% 26-32 Spicy, honey, earthy 
FUGGLE 4-7% 29-30 Grassy, minty, earthy
GALAXY 13-15% 32-35 Passionfruit, peaches
PILOT 7-10% 28-33 Lemon, spicy, marmalade
SIMCOE 11-15% 15-20 Pine, grapefruit, passionfruit
SUMMER 4-7% 22-25 Apricot, melon
Victoria 


Keep going with the hops or leave it?


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## JB (17/12/13)

NewtownClown said:


> BYO magazine's Hop Lovers Guide printed in 2008 and still available from www.BYO.com


Many thanks other scary clown. I know where I'll be for the next hour  Cheers


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## NewtownClown (17/12/13)

JB said:


> Many thanks other scary clown. I know where I'll be for the next hour  Cheers


 Only an hour?


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## law-of-ohms (17/12/13)

stuff it, i'm ganna add 50g of cascade and 50g of simcoe, so 200g all up in the dry hop


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## Lecterfan (17/12/13)

Good.

Please tell us the result.

I've recently gone back to dry hopping and added 30gms each of citra, cascade and chinook to an 'APA' (although the chest beating does nothing for me and I like doing sessionable AIPAs at around %5.8-%6 and 65 IBUS so I cal what I did an AIPA) and the first two days smelled amazing in the whole back porch but not much now. Primary fermentation had died down but I still suspect if the porch smelled so great then I might have lost a lot of potential aroma from the beer itself.


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## law-of-ohms (17/12/13)

fermenter smells good, dry hops for me was added 5 days after start primary and into secondary, so no more bubbles from air lock...


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## Yob (17/12/13)

Lecterfan said:


> Good.
> 
> Please tell us the result.
> 
> I've recently gone back to dry hopping and added 30gms each of citra, cascade and chinook to an APA


Sounds like you might need some help with it.. Will be down directly


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## law-of-ohms (19/12/13)

I'll let you know how it turns out..... 10g per L, maybe I would be better off spreading hop pellets on my toast. yum!


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## Donske (19/12/13)

bmarshall said:


> 200g for 20L? ;} have read 60g is good and noticeable and 120g on the over powering side. I do love a hoppy beer though. Could be like a red dick hop bach!


I have a keg of IIPA on tap now that had 10 and 1 minute additions north of 10g/l along with 10g/l dry hop and have a keg hop planned in the coming weeks as it's taking a while to get through a 10% beer with the weather we've had recently and the aroma is starting to fade slightly.

The first couple of weeks in the keg the aroma was amazing though, Simcoe and Centennial in equal parts as a dry hop is drool worthy.


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## bmarshall (19/12/13)

Oops just noticed should say red duck!!!!


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## law-of-ohms (19/12/13)

um yea.... I normally have a red one once a month.....


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## law-of-ohms (25/12/13)

Bottled the IPA, smells and tastes oh soooo good 

Can't wait to crack the first one...


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## GundyBrewer (30/12/13)

Yob said:


> Looks better mate (to me) and the formatting is much easier to read too.
> 
> Want pictures and tasting notes
> 
> :icon_cheers:



[attachment=67314:ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1388403801.481298.

There's the result (erm hope the photo works). In the end, I put 125g of dry hops in it total (~6g/L), about 50-50 Simcoe and Centennial with a few Galaxy flowers. Had 95g in the primary for 6 days, then 30g of the Simcoe went into the keg. It's a little stronger at 6.3% ABV than I aimed for in the recipe, since it attenuated pretty well (1.061 down to 1.013).

It's definitely got the fresh pine/resin hop character that I was aiming for, that dominates along with a bit of citrus. The bitterness is fairly smooth, it doesn't catch the back of the throat at all. I can't get too many tropical fruity taste I would expect from Galaxy, but that doesn't really bother me. There's some malt and caramel flavours there as well, which increase at the finish.


It's a not a bad drop overall. Next time I'll probably follow a bit of the advice in the thread and use a bit less crystal and no melanoidin, since it would improve with slightly less malt flavour. It could afford to be a little bit more bitter as well. I'll definitely keep experimenting with high rates and multiple stages of dry hopping though. WY1217 is definitely a winner too.


Thanks again for the advice.


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