# Wyeast London Esb



## gibbocore (21/8/08)

Hi Y'all,

I've used london ESB and it was bubbling away nicely with a strong krausen until over the last 2 days the foam has subsided and FG has remained steady at 1020 for 48 hours ish. 

The vitals;

Mashed at 64 degrees, finished after 75 mins at 63 degrees.
OG 1050
has been fermenting at 18 degrees except the latest reading shows about 16 degrees.

I'm wondering if its slowed due to the temp drop or if this yeast generally slows down towards the end? Should i bring it inside and sit it somewhere warm, as the wyeast website reccomends a diacetyl rest for this yeast as well.

Cheers in advance.


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## bouncingcastle (21/8/08)

I'm interested to read peoples thoughts on this, as I've used the same yeast twice now and both times have been unable to get it below 1020.

The second time I had an OG of 1062, so it did a fair bit of work - but the first time it was at similar levels to yours.


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## wrangler (21/8/08)

This yeast is a low attenuator, but I would expect it to go lower than 1.020. I have had some experience with the fermentation stopping at 1.020 in the past when the temp dropped too low overnight. Seems to be the magic SG in this situation. Are you fermenting at ambient temperatures or in an insulated temp-controlled environment?


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## gibbocore (21/8/08)

ambient.

Seems the last couple of nights have been a bit to cold.

The American ale next to it finished off the wort down to 1010 in 3 days at 16-18 degrees.


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## ozpowell (21/8/08)

gibbocore said:


> Hi Y'all,
> 
> I've used london ESB and it was bubbling away nicely with a strong krausen until over the last 2 days the foam has subsided and FG has remained steady at 1020 for 48 hours ish.
> 
> ...



I always ferment with this yeast at around 19 to 21C - 16 is too cold for this strain IMO. If you can, raise the temp to 21C and give the fermenter a decent swirl/rock - this strain is also extremely flocculant.

At those mash temps, you should expect an FG of around 1015 at least.


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## wrangler (21/8/08)

Sounds like the overnight temps may be your downfall. Definitely try stirring up the yeast, but in my experience this doesn't tend to work. I have never found a reliable way to get the last 5 or so points out of the ferment. Usually once its decided to stop, its stopped for good.


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## braufrau (21/8/08)

I've heard that this yeast flocculates so solidly that it stops fermenting. 
Dunnow if that's true, but rousing the yeast might help.


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## BoilerBoy (21/8/08)

braufrau said:


> I've heard that this yeast flocculates so solidly that it stops fermenting.
> Dunnow if that's true, but rousing the yeast might help.



Completely true!!

This yeast notoriously drops out of suspension before FG is reached.
Constant rousing of the yeast is often required, but as stated it is a low attenuator.

Makes a nice bright clear beer though.

Cheers,
BB


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## warrenlw63 (21/8/08)

Hey Gibbocore

Bump the temp up to around 20 degrees, "carefully" tilt your fermenter on its axis a bit and gently swirl the beer around to re-suspend the yeast a little. Do this once or twice daily for around 3 days.

You'll knock a couple of points of the FG.

Don't be too upset if it finishes a point or two higher than what you're used to. The finished beer will be worth the result.  

Warren -


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## gibbocore (21/8/08)

jerk yeast.

Imagonna stir the crap outta it.


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## PJO (21/8/08)

gibbocore said:


> The vitals;
> 
> Mashed at 64 degrees, finished after 75 mins at 63 degrees.
> OG 1050
> has been fermenting at 18 degrees except the latest reading shows about 16 degrees.



Another vital is how much crystal or roasted malt you put in. If its a substantial portion of the grist then you will end up with a higher than expected FG. Even such I would expect it to get to 1.015 (from 1.050) with a good dose of crystal in the grist.

Warm it up to 20+C and give it a really solid rousing by swirling the fermenter for a good minute or two, and then do it again the next day, and the next.

If that doesn't fix it, pitch some rehydrated Safale S-04 to finish off the last few points.

I have used the ESB yeast a number of times and it does require rousing to get it to finish, and it doesn't like the cold much so keep it above 18C.

Great yeast for a really chewy bitter ESB, or a full tasting Mild, and also good for getting a beer from mash to mouth in very short time.

Cheers,
PJO


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## gibbocore (21/8/08)

warrenlw63 said:


> Hey Gibbocore
> 
> Bump the temp up to around 20 degrees, "carefully" tilt your fermenter on its axis a bit and gently swirl the beer around to re-suspend the yeast a little. Do this once or twice daily for around 3 days.
> 
> ...



cheers mate, will do.


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## gibbocore (21/8/08)

PJO said:


> Another vital is how much crystal or roasted malt you put in. If its a substantial portion of the grist then you will end up with a higher than expected FG. Even such I would expect it to get to 1.015 (from 1.050) with a good dose of crystal in the grist.
> 
> Warm it up to 20+C and give it a really solid rousing by swirling the fermenter for a good minute or two, and then do it again the next day, and the next.
> 
> ...




actually this is one beer that i've not used any kilned grains in (first for me).


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## PJO (21/8/08)

gibbocore said:


> actually this is one beer that i've not used any kilned grains in (first for me).



In that case you should be getting down to 1.012-13. I reckon it was the cold snap...


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## drsmurto (21/8/08)

PJO said:


> Great yeast for a really chewy bitter ESB, or a full tasting Mild, and also good for getting a beer from *mash to mouth *in very short time.
> 
> Cheers,
> PJO



Grain to brain and now mash to mouth. Some top quotes there!

I have a pack of this in the fridge that i am itching to give a go. Having used 1187 successfully it looks as tho this beast needs the same subtle encouragement to keep working. 

Must be a public servant h34r:


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## jimi (21/8/08)

I love this yeast, but it is one that takes a little more care, but is well worth it IMHO. 
You need to pitch a good size starter or it will pete out. You should also watch that you don't leave it on the yeast cake for too long as autolysis is a chance. It's a low attenuator, but I've pitch onto a yeast cake with this puppy and a planned English mild (3.5%) ended up fermenting out to about 5% (not too bad all the same). 
So my tip is to make sure you pitch a good vol. 
The shake thing and temp up to 20 that others have suggested is prob your best bet. If you want the marmalade this yeast can give aim for 20 from the start if you can.
I love this yeast


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## gibbocore (21/8/08)

cheers blokes.

I've got the temp up to 19-20 not and gave it a swirl before and its already edging on 1018, seems the goods. The cold temps could also have been knocking a point or two off my hydro.

I didn't use a starter for this batch. Will defs be saving the cake though cause its the maltiest beer i've brewed and it smells/tastes fantastic.


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## edoeven (21/8/08)

I recently made an ESB with this yeast, grain bill was -
85% MO
8.57 med crystal
1% choc
4.5% raw sugar
mashed 66-65
with wy 1968 it dropped from 1045 --> 1008 in about 3 days, suprised the hell out of me! I was thinking around 1012-1014. anyway, beer is tasting great so all good


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## gibbocore (21/8/08)

DrSmurto said:


> Grain to brain and now mash to mouth. Some top quotes there!
> 
> I have a pack of this in the fridge that i am itching to give a go. Having used 1187 successfully it looks as tho this beast needs the same subtle encouragement to keep working.
> 
> Must be a public servant h34r:



Dude, the recipe is your TTLPA clone. Smells and tastes absoloutly fantastic.


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## gibbocore (22/8/08)

Hi All, gravity is down to 1015. I take it i wont get it down much further?

Cheers for the advice, seemed to have hit the proverbial nail and all that...

For anyone thinking about using this yeast, don't let this thread discourage, its made one cracker of a beer.


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## drsmurto (22/8/08)

gibbocore said:


> Dude, the recipe is your TTLPA clone. Smells and tastes absoloutly fantastic.



Ah, the penny drops. MO + munich?

Checked my data and i had OG 1.046, FG 1.012 but that was with 1469. So 1.015 from 1.050 gives an apparent attenuation of 69% which is right in the middle of the range for this yeast according to the Wyeast website


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## gibbocore (22/8/08)

hahaha, crisis averted


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## Dave86 (22/8/08)

I just bottled my fiddlers elbow type beer a week ago (first use of 1968) and got about 73% attenuation. 1042 down to 1011, fermented at 19 degrees. I racked as soon as ferment had slowed down after 4 or 5 days in primary, gravity reading 1014 and got it down the three extra points, so was pretty happy with those numbers.


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## kram (22/8/08)

Dave86 said:


> I just bottled my fiddlers elbow type beer a week ago...


I'd be very interested in seeing this recipe and hearing how it turned out.


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## Dave86 (22/8/08)

Here you go  

BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: Fiddlers Elbow Type
Brewer: Dave
Asst Brewer:
Style: Special/Best/Premium Bitter
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 23.50 L
Boil Size: 31.25 L
Estimated OG: 1.042 SG
Estimated Color: 6.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 25.5 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 67.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.50 kg Bairds Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 75.27 %
0.64 kg Wheat Malt, Malt Craft (Joe White) (1.8 SRGrain 13.76 %
0.26 kg Wheat Malt, Dark (Weyermann) (7.0 SRM) Grain 5.59 %
0.21 kg Crystal Wheat (47.6 SRM) Grain 4.52 %
0.04 kg Carawheat (Weyermann) (50.0 SRM) Grain 0.86 %
16.00 gm Northdown [6.90 %] (90 min) Hops 12.7 IBU
15.00 gm Styrian Goldings [5.30 %] (15 min) Hops 3.8 IBU
15.00 gm Northdown [6.90 %] (15 min) Hops 5.5 IBU
15.00 gm Styrian Goldings [5.30 %] (10 min) Hops 2.8 IBU
1 Pkgs London ESB Ale (Wyeast Labs #1968) Yeast-Ale


Can't remember exactly where the basis of the recipe came from as the one I found on jim's beerkit here isn't much like this. I think it may have been the inspiration and I got the crystal wheat and northdown from the wychwood site:



> ABV: 4.5%
> Bottle: 500ml
> Cask: as a seasonal beer only
> Hops: Styrian and Northdown
> Malts: Pale Wheat and Crystal



The only reason for the different wheat malts and crystal wheat malts is that I was using up some odds and ends. Been in the bottle a week now, going to try it out in a fortnight, can't wait to see how it went :icon_drool2:


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## kram (22/8/08)

Awesome, thanks. I'm not a real fan (not that i've brewed any) of Normans Real Ale Almanac recipes as they don't match up with what Wychwood says. I'll have a stab at Goliath also one day.

I'll certainly be referring to your recipe when I formulate mine. Let us know how it goes. I've got some 1968 waiting.


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