# Using 8g CO2 soda bulbs in your Tap King



## Beerisyummy

This is just to stop myself and others clogging up the http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/71427-lion-introduces-tap-king-party-keg-growlers/page-25 thread with to many random offshoots.

It also makes it easier for anyone using the search function in future. 25+ pages for the odd useful post is getting ridiculous.

The title says it all so if you have any useful info (including pictures), please feel free to share.


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## Hugh Jarse

Nice work Beerisyummy, will follow and post results of second O ring soon. About to head into Supercheap to buy an O ring kit.


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## mrTbeer

30c worth of 5c coins sorts the length.


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## Hugh Jarse

Thanks mrTbeer. Finally a worthwhile use for the pesky 5c coins! Time to raid the loose change money box....


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## Beerisyummy

Ok. So I'm back home after a +4hr drive and I just cracked another TK bottle.

I don't have any 8g bottles to test until tomorrow, but I do have something else to report in relation to the amount of gas needed for each bottle.

Firstly, a picture of the first glass poured out of a new bottle into a warm glass. This is with the regulator dialled back 2/3 of a turn.





This is the second bottle I've used in this fashion. After a few glasses I just turn the reg back up and jamb it in the fridge for another day.

The big difference came when I used the last of the beer up and needed to empty the bottle of gas. I could've poured another two and a halve schooners easily.

Going on what others have posted about the 8g cartridges falling short, running the regulator at a lower pressure while pouring should yield a good pour and get the bottle emptied.

Another pic I've already posted before. It's just a stripped down unit that might help others feel brave enough to pull one apart. I hope to add some more detailed parts breakdowns soon.




PS. Loving the good use for 5c coins MrTbeer!


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## Bats

I have some 12g bulbs from ezychargers I am going to use up first but am interested to see how the 8g ones will go.

I think I read somewhere that the TK reg is dialled for around 2.5 vol. If my HB is carbonated to around this level, does anyone know if the 8g bulbs will definitely last or do you need to dial the TK reg down a bit like beerisyummy said to have enough Co2 to empty a bottle?


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## Beerisyummy

> I have some 12g bulbs from ezychargers I am going to use up first but am interested to see how the 8g ones will go.
> 
> I think I read somewhere that the TK reg is dialled for around 2.5 vol. If my HB is carbonated to around this level, does anyone know if the 8g bulbs will definitely last or do you need to dial the TK reg down a bit like beerisyummy said to have enough Co2 to empty a bottle?


Hi Bats,

I only started dialling down the regulator in order to stop the crazy foaming you can get on the TK. The first glass is normally foamy. On top of that mine doesn't fit in the kitchen fridge, which means it gets warmer as I go and the foaming begins.

I'm pretty sure I've nailed a simple method of modifying the TK to take an 8g Co2 cartridge. Stay posted for more info on that.

My first experiment with the 8g cartridge was to see just how much water it would displace. Now I know there's more to it than this, but I did a basic run anyway to see what happens.

It goes something like this;
-Fill up the TK bottle to the brim with cold tap water. 18c.
-Engage bottle with head unit and pierce co2 cartridge.
-Give the bottle 30 seconds or so to equalise.
-Pour contents into a 2l Pyrex measuring jug until the gas runs out.

3.5l later and there was around half a middys worth of gas left.

I'm pretty sure I'll get a similar result when I strap on a fully carbed bottle of beer. In a weeks time I'll have a few ready to go or my kegs will arrive and I'll force carb some fresh beer.

Time will tell.


PS. The other awesome thread that helped me start on Tap King modifications.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/74869-pimp-my-tapking/


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## barls

anyone got a pic of the bulb sitting in the right place ie not too high not too low.
having trouble getting it to puncture it atm.
also which way did you adjust the reg? might do this as well.


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## Beerisyummy

> anyone got a pic of the bulb sitting in the right place ie not too high not too low.
> having trouble getting it to puncture it atm.
> also which way did you adjust the reg? might do this as well.


I tried to take a shot mate. It doesn't really show what you need.

The correct height on my rig is 6-7 5c coins.

I'm in the middle of writing a post on how to do my mod and that should help.


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## barls

ive got the 6 in there. might try 7 tomorrow, i know 8 is too high no movement at all.
can anyone confirm that in its normal position the pin is slightly inside the unit ie about 2-3 mm.


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## Beerisyummy

Alright, here goes.

As I said, I'm pretty sure I've nailed it using just parts from the TK. I'll be leaving a bottle hooked up for a week to see if it loses pressure before I'm sure.

The only extra part involved is an extra white washer from another tap king lid. I'm sure there are many substitutes that could be found.


Pictures speak a thousand words. Let's start there.

Start off by disassembling your lid like so.



Take the yellow plastic part and shave a 45 degree chamfer on the inside top edge. This turns the two plastic parts into a compression fitting when screwed together.



You know you've shaved off enough when the rubber seal fits snugly while on the neck of the 8g bottle.



From here you will need to push the bottle through the white plastic collar. Push the o ring over the bottle. Add 2x the little white washers that came out of the yellow plastic part. Don't forget to add the pin in the usual spot before assembly.



Once you have that lot in hand you can carefully screw the white collar and yellow sleeve together. It will look like this when done. Don't go too hard on the pliers as a good snug fit is enough. The two parts didn't fit against each other tightly when I did mine and it still works just fine.



Throw in 7x 5c coins and drop the cartridge assembly in. These work but they are leaving stress marks on the cartridge holder along the leading edge. Cutting down an old bottle as an extension would be a better long term solution.



Reassemble the lid. If you don't understand each part, take the time to work out what they all do. If you have any problems it will help.



From here you can just throw the lid on a bottle and use as you need.

The only downside to this method is the use of the extra white washer from another TK lid. An easy problem to solve if you have half a brain.
The original system relies on a double seal on the head of the co2 cartridge. Copy that and you'll be fine. Both are very important.

I did have two other modifications that would work, but this one is the most simple. They both involved machining the yellow plastic part to fit suitable o rings.
They work fairly well so don't stop exploring that avenue.

Someone with a mini lathe could easily manufacture a work around.


HTH.
Ross.


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## Hugh Jarse

I had 7 and a washer in there and it seemed pretty darn close. But then I had an unfortunate accident involving a screw, a drill bit and a slip of the hand...... Hand fine but TK collar did not survive! Currently draining another bottle now, glass by glass, and then will get back on the modify wagon! 

Nice work Beerisyummy. Just as well I have a spare TK bottle top!!!!

EDIT: Keen to see how the pressure goes over the week and if we are then able to change gas without undoing all over again. Would be nice to just pull the cylinder and replace as would with the 12's.


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## Diggs

Thanks for the great post Ross, pretty much clear up all the questions that I had.


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## Beerisyummy

No problems guys.

I'm a sucker for figuring out what makes things tick. Some like crosswords, this is my thing.

Be careful with those tools HJ. I'm very familiar with the sensation you get when a drill skips and you end up drilling into you're own palm or finger.
It hurts like a bitch and thankfully it doesn't happen much these days.
I always try to plan for the worst case scenario with any tool. God knows I've seen them all at some stage.

If someone has a metal work lathe I'd love to see some work done on the collar.


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## Diggs

Anyone come up with a decent source for the 8gm bulbs? Not a lot of them on FleaBay.


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## barls

catering stores, coles and woolies


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## Diggs

barls said:


> catering stores, coles and woolies


Ok cool. I hoped that was the case, just surprised not to see them online. Cheers


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## barls

they are soda syphon bulbs


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## mrTbeer

Got there eventually by following your pics, not sure best way to do chamfer i used a pen knife but it looks tight. Here's a pic with 8,12,16g bulbs.
8g loaded ready to go.
12g is spent but loaded in normal TK way.
16g is just for scale, it's too fat to go in.

I've been using the 16g external reg as I had them at home already for bikes.
Haven't ordered any 12g online yet but have used a couple TK 12g to push my beer after getting TK beer from bottle using 16g.
Bought some 8g from Kitchen shop and after 1st one leaked wasn't sure what to do with other 9, now I know, Cheers.


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## mrTbeer

Next I will hacksaw the end of a spent 12g to make a wedge and save 35c in coins.
The No2 bulbs at NightOwl are same size as 8g Co2 bulbs, in theory you've just figured out a way to pour Guinness through the TK. Might be wrong there these ones are N not NO2, cool website http://morebeer.com/products/nitrogen-cartridge-18g.html


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## Beerisyummy

Sounds like you've got 9 more bottles to get through MrTbeer.

I'm pretty keen to see how the mod goes with beer instead of water. 

When I did the chamfer it was with a pen knife too. The important thing is to keep the chamfered edge nice and smooth. 

The whole thing could probably do with some lubricant also.


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## Beerisyummy

> Anyone come up with a decent source for the 8gm bulbs? Not a lot of them on FleaBay.


I've managed to find a hospitality store in Artarmon (Sydney siders). Southern Hospitality on Hotham sells them for $9.17/ 10pack.

They can be had online for around 70c each if you shop around. If anyone can find a cheaper source please share.



> Next I will hacksaw the end of a spent 12g to make a wedge and save 35c in coins.
> The No2 bulbs at NightOwl are same size as 8g Co2 bulbs, in theory you've just figured out a way to pour Guinness through the TK. Might be wrong there these ones are N not NO2, cool website http://morebeer.com/products/nitrogen-cartridge-18g.html


Have a read up on dispensing Guiness. It's dispensed at around 35psi as far as I can tell. How to make a Tap King explode?

When you cut down the bulb let us know how you go with the length. The collar needs that little bit of pressure on the head of the soda bulb to work, so I'm guessing it's a fine line between 6-7 5c pieces.


I have tested the bottle of water this morning and it's still dispensing. For now I'm confident this method will work over a 12hr period, which is enough for BBQs.

I'd have left it for the full week, but the water is becoming carbonated to 12psi. After a week I imagine that the cartridge would have discharged 2x into the water itself.

My very basic understanding of this is that the system is designed to run with around 2.5 volumes of CO2 and the cartridge will only push approximately 1.1 volumes to displace the liquid gold. Given that I've only added still water I would imagine the experiment was doomed at conception.

I guess beer is the only way forward!

I had entertained ideas of using the TK head to carbonate the bottles over a week or two, but it seems this 8g cartridge method won't really cut it. The best way to do this still seems to be with a larger external CO2 bottle.

I'm guessing a Soda Stream bottle and regulator set to 12-15 psi jabbed into the TK lids several times over a week or so should do the trick.


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## carpedaym

Hey folks, I'm watching with keen interest having just bought a TK. Just a thought thought on the 5c coin issue. 

Having not played with it, I'm making some assumptions. The first of which is that we're shooting for a replicable solution with currency, rather than saying "just find a washer that's thinner/thicker than a 5c piece". Anyway, onto the thought... 

If the ideal number of 5c coins is between 6 and 7 and the thickness of a 5c coin is "<1.3mm" (as per wikipedia), that puts the ideal thickness of the stack between 7.8 and 9.1mm. In the middle is 8.45mm.

It looks like the 5c's are a bit of a squeeze to get in there, but $2 coins aren't much larger in diameter. These are 3.2mm thick.

3.2mm + (4 x 1.3mm) = 8.4mm

Does anyone with an empty TK bottle and a spare $2.20 want to see whether that would get the 8g tube sitting at a better height? (I know I'm driving the costs up here...  )


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## Beerisyummy

Fail. 

I'm spewing because I thought you were onto something. The $2 coin also has a much softer edge on it which would've reduced the stresses on the cartridge holder.

It turns out that the $2 coin does not fit.


It's worth noting that I've got three of these mods going and they all work very well so far. Another work around for the extra white washer is the small o ring from the collar head. It works in place of the second white washer.

So far I can get two working mods from three Tap King lids.

"Please hold pressure over a week".


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## carpedaym

Nooo! Damn. Those 5c's must be a tight fit already! I did note that 1c pieces are smaller if anybody has any of those still lying around behind a couch somewhere.


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## mrTbeer

Although sealed from beer, the coins are open to moisture in fridge air as are the Original TK bulbs. I noticed after rinsing one sealed lid there were a few drops of water inside. Maybe inconsequential but possible infection especially from copper coins. Non food safe bulbs don't worry me too much, The 8g & 16g ones are food safe, although 12g are used for air-guns I doubt they pay extra to add any oil and then fail to brag about adding oil. Just my 2c, pardon the pun.


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## Bats

I had a go using 8g bulbs last night.

6 x 5c coins were too low. The pin didn't even pierce the bulb. 

I then tried 7. It only just pierced but not enough to pressurise the bottle. My guess is the barb only just pierced and created it's own plug not allowing any CO2 out. Obviously once I disconnected I still lost all the CO2 out of the bulb.

So I tried 8. Too high and the lid would not go back together.

I didn't do any chamfer etc. Just rammed the bulb up in there tight.

I have been successfully dispensing beer using Mosa 12g bulbs from ezychargers. The Mosa website state they are food grade even though they are predominantly used for paintball guns etc.

I would still like to work out how to make the 8g bulbs work and I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I can get the 8g bulbs for $8 a 10 pack from my local IGA so it's way easier.

Until I figure it out, I'll stick to the 12g.


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## Beerisyummy

Bats said:


> I would still like to work out how to make the 8g bulbs work and I am not sure what I am doing wrong. I can get the 8g bulbs for $8 a 10 pack from my local IGA so it's way easier.
> 
> Until I figure it out, I'll stick to the 12g.


I don't get it?


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## Bats

Beerisyummy said:


> I don't get it?


The only other thing I could think of is maybe the 8g bulbs I bought from my IGA are thicker at the neck and harder to puncture. They do seem a bit tougher than the 12g one's that I have no problems with.

Maybe I'll try a different brand before I give up on the 8's all together.


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## Beerisyummy

Bats said:


> I didn't do any chamfer etc. Just rammed the bulb up in there tight.


Follow the instructions I posted and you can use the 8g bulbs. Is there some part of the instructions that are unclear?

Please let me now if they're unclear so I can fix them up.


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## Bats

Beerisyummy said:


> Follow the instructions I posted and you can use the 8g bulbs. Is there some part of the instructions that are unclear?
> 
> Please let me now if they're unclear so I can fix them up.


I did it last night before I read your instructions. 

I will give it another go the way you described.


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## Beerisyummy

Cool.
Let me know if you get stuck.


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## Beerisyummy

Just a quick update on how much beer you can pour with the 8g bulbs. 1x 8g bulb will happily pour the whole 3.2l. :beerbang:


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## barls

giving the chamfer a go tomorrow as cant get the bulb to pierce otherwise


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## Beerisyummy

barls said:


> giving the chamfer a go tomorrow as cant get the bulb to pierce otherwise


Probably a good thing as it'll leak without the o ring slotted into the chamfer.

I've got another mod you guys might like. Just cut off the tabs from the white collar and remove the retainer tabs from inside the lid.

With this done you don't even need to undo the screws on the lid. Just pop the gas in when you're ready to go and remove the bottle by hand when you're done.



I guess I can try carbonating a bottle now. Not really an economical exercise, but more of an experiment to see just how many bulbs it takes and how long.

:beer:


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## carpedaym

Beerisyummy said:


> Just a quick update on how much beer you can pour with the 8g bulbs. 1x 8g bulb will happily pour the whole 3.2l. :beerbang:


That is excellent news. For a slower drinker, would there be any foreseeable reason the 8g wouldn't last for a week or two?

Also, I've looked in a few supermarkets and they haven't stocked them. What section should I be looking in? (I'm the sort of guy who likes to waste 20m walking down every isle before asking somebody.)


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## barls

they are normally behind the counter with the cigs


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## Hugh Jarse

Have you tested the cut down mod yet Beerisyummy? Would it affect the stability of the cylinder while piercing/puncturing or while dispensing? Would be a good mod so you wouldnt have to worry about those pesky screws again!
Definitely have to screw down the reg on mine as you only have to look at the tap and you will get a glass of foam! How much gas did you have left after you dispensed the beer using the 8g? And over what time period of time did it dispense? Just thinking that if your beer is carbed to 2.0 and your TK reg was set for 2.5, would this carb the beer over time? 
Just about to finish draining the last bottle and then I can do a full strip down before my next two bottles of bought beer go on for the weekend. Then I can have at least 2 hb of American Amber on TK for when I get home from work next time :beerbang:


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## Beerisyummy

Hugh Jarse said:


> Have you tested the cut down mod yet Beerisyummy? Would it affect the stability of the cylinder while piercing/puncturing or while dispensing? Would be a good mod so you wouldnt have to worry about those pesky screws again!
> Definitely have to screw down the reg on mine as you only have to look at the tap and you will get a glass of foam! How much gas did you have left after you dispensed the beer using the 8g? And over what time period of time did it dispense? Just thinking that if your beer is carbed to 2.0 and your TK reg was set for 2.5, would this carb the beer over time?
> Just about to finish draining the last bottle and then I can do a full strip down before my next two bottles of bought beer go on for the weekend. Then I can have at least 2 hb of American Amber on TK for when I get home from work next time :beerbang:


The cut down beer mod works a treat. When you pull the bottle back out of the head unit the bulb just stays in the machine. Nothing too hard about pulling it out.

The 8g bulb was enough to do the whole bottle with approximately half a glass extra. Pretty much similar to the test with just water. The whole bottle lasted a few hours.

I've filled another bottle for testing today and hopefully will have an operational kegging setup next week. With that I can just fill the bottles from the kegs without all the sediment and waiting for them to naturally carbonate. That's when I can really test out the system.

My biggest complaint about using the TK for HB is that my lovely lager was as cloudy as my wheat beer. Hopefully adding pre carbonated beer will solve this one. Even if you had to use three bulbs to carbonate and dispense each TK bottle, I suppose it's still pretty cheap. $2.10 to $2.70 per bottle in cartridges is doable for those without a keg setup.


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## Hugh Jarse

I was going to investigate the use of a Sodastream bottle for the carb setup (when I get there). Carb as you would for a normal keg (accounting for TK bottle), bang in the 8g for the dispense and should be all smiles, hope fully no need for bulk prime and sediment. A little off with that one yet.


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## lael

Just looking into Tapking as a cheap kegging setup. What is the advantage of going for the 8g bulbs instead of the 12g ezychargers or the minireg+16gr bulbs? (I'm assuming cost?)


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## Beerisyummy

8g bulbs can be purchased cheaply from your local hospitality store.
They're also a little cheaper than the bigger ones for obvious reasons.


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## mrTbeer

The 12g can't be purchased from stores at least not that I've found, only online.
8g are stocked at more places including Kitchen stores and even some convenience stores (cheaper).
16g are also stocked at bike shops and brew shops. Advantage other than size is that it can be changed part way through a bottle without disconnecting Tap.


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## lael

ok, cool - so cheaper, and still serve a whole bottle. sounds good. Over time would 16gr and the minikeg regulator pay for itself?


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## Bats

Obviously these trials are still in the early stages of development. But in relation to naturally carbing the TK bottles, wouldn't any sediment be gone in the first pour or so? 

I know there will be sediment which will all settle to the bottom once the bottle is laid on its side. Wouldn't the tube draw up all the sediment before eventually clearing?
I would like to naturally carb half a dozen TK bottles for rainy days. Not going to bother if sediment is an issue.


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## barls

just finished playing with one to get it to pierce properly found 7 5 cents and a piece of silicon bake tray worked perfectly.
just about to start modding the second one.


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## barls

second one modded. now to chill the very first one i did down and change the head to a modded one.


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## Beerisyummy

> ok, cool - so cheaper, and still serve a whole bottle. sounds good. Over time would 16gr and the minikeg regulator pay for itself?


I short, no. The mini regulator will be a one off cost but it won't save you any money long term over the 8g setup.

From what I've found so far, the cost of the different CO2 cartridges is similar no matter which size you buy. If you hunt around and buy bulk you should be sweet either way.

Given that the 12g cartridges are more than enough to pour a whole bottle, I'd say they are the most wasteful option.


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## barls

found the bulbs in big W for 10 bucks a pack yesterday so they should be most of the big w’s


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## lael

Awesome. Pack of 10?


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## Diggs

mrTbeer said:


> Advantage other than size is that it can be changed part way through a bottle without disconnecting Tap.


Forgive my ignorance, how? I thought the idea with the 8s is that they just replace what normally does in the lid?


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## barls

think it was or it could of been 8 didnt really pay that much attention. did also find them at essential ingredient in balmain for about 7.50


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## mrTbeer

Diggs you've taken that out of context. 16g can be changed. 8g and 12g cannot.


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## Beerisyummy

> Diggs you've taken that out of context. 16g can be changed. 8g and 12g cannot.


Precisely.
You can't change a bulb without releasing any gas that's left. I'm pretty sure the 16g with mini reg gives you a little more leeway in that regard.

MrTbeer, do you think it would be possible to swap out 3.2L bottles mid use with a tap on the low pressure side of the mini regulator? That would be a good mod.

If you do it with a half full 12g it shreds the little black o ring that slots into the on board regulator.


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## mrTbeer

Yeah that'd be good as you'd be able to leave the reg on the same pressure without dialing in each time.


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## lael

barls said:


> found the bulbs in big W for 10 bucks a pack yesterday so they should be most of the big w’s


Barls whereabouts in the storw did you find these? And what are calling them when you ask store people for them? All I'm getting is blank faces and no..


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## Beerisyummy

Not all stores sell them. There was a push to have them banned a while back to stop kids blowing stuff up with them.
They generally keep them behind the counter from what I've heard.

The local hospitality store was cheaper and easier for me.


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## barls

lael said:


> Barls whereabouts in the storw did you find these? And what are calling them when you ask store people for them? All I'm getting is blank faces and no..


it was top ryde mate, and they were with the mr beer units. didnt pay attention to what they were calling them.
so in homewares and with the home brew section.


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## lael

Cheers!


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## carpedaym

They look like this, if it helps...


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## Beerisyummy

Can you force carb using this method? Hell yeah!

When I sober up I'll post up some photos of how it's done.

For now, in short;

-Fill TK bottle from FV.
-Attach modified TK lid with 1x 8g bulb fitted.
-Fit to TK unit and engage.
-Turn bottle upside down and burp out air using the tap.
-Cool down in the fridge.
-Shake the shit out of it until the co2 gets low.
-Slowly release the TK unit from the bottle.
-Swap out the co2 bulb.
-Shake the shit out of the bottle.
-Pour a beer and enjoy.

Shortly after the first pour the 2nd co2 bulb will run out. Swap it out with a new one and your good to go with the rest of the bottle.

It worked for me first go.


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## Captain Morgan

Beerisyummy said:


> Can you force carb using this method? Hell yeah!
> 
> When I sober up I'll post up some photos of how it's done.
> 
> For now, in short;
> 
> -Fill TK bottle from FV.
> -Attach modified TK lid with 1x 8g bulb fitted.
> -Fit to TK unit and engage.
> -Turn bottle upside down and burp out air using the tap.
> -Cool down in the fridge.
> -Shake the shit out of it until the co2 gets low.
> -Slowly release the TK unit from the bottle.
> -Swap out the co2 bulb.
> -Shake the shit out of the bottle.
> -Pour a beer and enjoy.
> 
> Shortly after the first pour the 2nd co2 bulb will run out. Swap it out with a new one and your good to go with the rest of the bottle.
> 
> It worked for me first go.


Thats gold! Thanks for that, I'll give that one a try


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## Beerisyummy

Turns out I'm partially sober now! Pics as promised.




This is a shot of what happens to the little o ring on the yellow plastic part when you release the bottle with some Co2 left.
The two o rings shown started out the same size. If you leave them they go back to normal in an hour or so.



A quick shot of the modified collar after several uses. I can see the coins need to go and a good measurement for the spacer needs to be found.



Yeah! That is force carbed beer.
That was a 12 day old lager that had been poured straight from the FV with no cold crashing, finings or filtering. It did not get time to settle out either. Some planning here could easily solve the issues with beer clarity.



I'd say that looks to be a nicely carbed beer for ten minutes of my time and a few 90c cartridges.

Enjoy!


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## carpedaym

I'm just getting my TK sorted out and have a few questions:

- With the 8g mod, has anyone come up with an alternative option for the extra white washer or black o-ring that is required? I.e. something from around the home that will do the job, or from bunnings etc.

- To adjust the regulator while a bottle is loaded, do you need to drill a hole in the top cover? Or can you remove the screws after loading to access the reg.? (For some reason I optimistically tried to mount a bottle without the top cover on. The bulb didn't pierce properly and I lost all my CO2.) 

And finally;
- If I decide to revert back to using a 12g bulb for some reason, would the cut chamfer be a problem with the stock TK configuration? Or should everything still work after making the chamfers...?


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## carpedaym

I'm going to bump this (again) since email alerts seem to be working again.


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## Beerisyummy

> I'm just getting my TK sorted out and have a few questions:
> 
> - With the 8g mod, has anyone come up with an alternative option for the extra white washer or black o-ring that is required? I.e. something from around the home that will do the job, or from bunnings etc.
> 
> - To adjust the regulator while a bottle is loaded, do you need to drill a hole in the top cover? Or can you remove the screws after loading to access the reg.? (For some reason I optimistically tried to mount a bottle without the top cover on. The bulb didn't pierce properly and I lost all my CO2.)
> 
> And finally;
> - If I decide to revert back to using a 12g bulb for some reason, would the cut chamfer be a problem with the stock TK configuration? Or should everything still work after making the chamfers...?


Hi Nala,

-The extra white washer is on my to do list. No quick fix just yet.

-I used my rig without the top cover for some time but have since drilled a hole in the top of it. I now just turn a DIY knob to adjust the serving/carbonating pressure.

-As far as I can tell the chamfer should not have an effect on the use of a the 12g cylinder at a later date.


I'm several TK bottles into this experiment and have to say it works well for what it is. My corny kegs shit all over it but I'm still impressed.


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## carpedaym

Thanks for the answers! Bottling next week, can't wait to have some on tap. Kegging will come one day...


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## AzzA68

G'day Gents,

been watching this thread keenly and doing some of my own experiments... I've found the 8g bulbs can vary considerably; there's a good few mm's difference in height between Mosa and Leland 8g CO2 bulbs (a good 10cents if you're using coins).

To check if the 8g bulb would fully evacuate a 3.2litre keg, I filled a keg with freshly made soda water (highly gassed) and then ran the lot down the sink... it will empty it, but only just. This would likely result in a glass or two being left in a keg if you didn't drink it all in the one or, maybe, two sessions.

I'm also keen on the idea of using N2 (nitrogen) to push out some stouts and porters; I like my beers with less fizz, even when the style does not.

Someone, sorry can't remember who, posed the idea of modifying the bulb retainer so that bulbs can be slid in and out of the assembled lids without the need of disassembly. I like this idea very much; it opens up the possibility to force carbonate, top-up pour pressure if the bulb is empty, and to mix gasses (for stout etc). It also means that pressure from natural carbonation is less likely to be lost when you stuff up, or get, the bulb height wrong; no need to take the lid off the bottle, just separate the tap mechanism and swap in a new bulb... replace the tap and you're ready to go. We just need a satisfactory method to clean/sanitise the fully assembled lids between uses. I think some metal safe sanitiser and a blast/jet of CO2 would do the job of cleaning the two internal valves.

Someone, sorry again I forget who, mentioned that Mosa 12g bulbs fit without modification. Has anyone else confirmed if these fit or not? 
I've contacted Mosa for data sheets and availability. 
I've also asked Mosa Taiwan about minimum orders etc; because no-one I can find stock 12g or 8g N2 bulbs for retail in Australia. 
Is anyone else interested in establishing a supply line or placing a group order for modification free 12g CO2 and N2 bulbs?


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## barls

Mate I've dispensed a couple of the bottles with 8g cartridges. Works fine. Poured perfect and still had plenty of gas left in the bottle.
Because your not factoring in the carbonation in the beer helping you out as well.
On the 12g cartridges maybe ask in the main thread not the one dedicated to the use of 8g ones


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## carpedaym

Barls, how long did you leave the tapped keg sitting around?

I have some Leland ones I'm trying to work out. AzzA, how many 5c pieces did you use for the Leland ones?


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## barls

Bottled it a month before and bulk primed it to 2.3 volumes of co2. Then tapped and finished in one day. 


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## barls

I'm using the ones from essential ingredient which look the same as the woollies ones. They have the isi Austria logo on them
Work fine for me and I'm using 8 5 cent pieces and a thin piece of silicon baking tray



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## Beerisyummy

> G'day Gents,
> 
> been watching this thread keenly and doing some of my own experiments... I've found the 8g bulbs can vary considerably; there's a good few mm's difference in height between Mosa and Leland 8g CO2 bulbs (a good 10cents if you're using coins).
> 
> To check if the 8g bulb would fully evacuate a 3.2litre keg, I filled a keg with freshly made soda water (highly gassed) and then ran the lot down the sink... it will empty it, but only just. This would likely result in a glass or two being left in a keg if you didn't drink it all in the one or, maybe, two sessions.
> 
> I'm also keen on the idea of using N2 (nitrogen) to push out some stouts and porters; I like my beers with less fizz, even when the style does not.
> 
> Someone, sorry can't remember who, posed the idea of modifying the bulb retainer so that bulbs can be slid in and out of the assembled lids without the need of disassembly. I like this idea very much; it opens up the possibility to force carbonate, top-up pour pressure if the bulb is empty, and to mix gasses (for stout etc). It also means that pressure from natural carbonation is less likely to be lost when you stuff up, or get, the bulb height wrong; no need to take the lid off the bottle, just separate the tap mechanism and swap in a new bulb... replace the tap and you're ready to go. We just need a satisfactory method to clean/sanitise the fully assembled lids between uses. I think some metal safe sanitiser and a blast/jet of CO2 would do the job of cleaning the two internal valves.
> 
> Someone, sorry again I forget who, mentioned that Mosa 12g bulbs fit without modification. Has anyone else confirmed if these fit or not?
> I've contacted Mosa for data sheets and availability.
> I've also asked Mosa Taiwan about minimum orders etc; because no-one I can find stock 12g or 8g N2 bulbs for retail in Australia.
> Is anyone else interested in establishing a supply line or placing a group order for modification free 12g CO2 and N2 bulbs?


Thanks for sharing your findings on the different sizes of 8g bulbs. All the ones I've seen have been identical so it's good to know.

I'm not sure about the exact science in regards to the gassing of water and beer. I'm still learning the basics of kegging.
All I can say is that beer and water are two very different liquids. Try your experiments with beer.

It was me that modified the retainer. In my eyes it is a must for anyone using the bulbs instead of an external regulator.
All of my TK bottle tops have the retainers removed.

I'm several TK bottles into things and still find the 8g cartridges will dispense a whole bottle if it's correctly carbed.

Nitrogen is not very soluble in liquids so you need a shirtload of pressure to pour. From memory it's around 35 PSI pouring pressure. I can't remember if this is for pure N2 or the N2/CO2 mix that bars use. If you find a way I'd love to know how you go.
You can buy 8g N2 cartridges at most hospitality stores.




> Mate I've dispensed a couple of the bottles with 8g cartridges. Works fine. Poured perfect and still had plenty of gas left in the bottle.
> Because your not factoring in the carbonation in the beer helping you out as well.
> On the 12g cartridges maybe ask in the main thread not the one dedicated to the use of 8g ones
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


 Be nice mate.  I want them to work out how to use N2 cartridges.




> I found cutting off the barbed end off a 19mm irrigation fitting (such as an elbow or t-piece) to the right length works well as a spacer, and the 8g CO2 cartridges fit perfectly into the 19mm black irrigation pipe, which makes them fit snuggly into the TK receptacle. I used this for my bike-pump carbonator, where the size was even more critical:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DSCN0520.JPG.JPG


Freakin awesome! Love your work mate.




> Bottled it a month before and bulk primed it to 2.3 volumes of co2. Then tapped and finished in one day.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Shame on you. I've done that twice with my 70% wheat beer. I just had a keg go dry half way through filling a bottle today.



> I'm using the ones from essential ingredient which look the same as the woollies ones. They have the isi Austria logo on them
> Work fine for me and I'm using 8 5 cent pieces and a thin piece of silicon baking tray
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Could you give us some pics and instructions on the silicone baking tray washer?


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## barls

Cut out the same size as a 5 cent piece. In between the last two coins as a buffer. It brought it up to the right height but still gave flex in the stack. 
It's one of the cheap trays from a discount store. 
As for the coins it's 7 now I go back and count not 8


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## Beerisyummy

Ahhh.

I thought you'd made a replacement washer for the little white ones that go between the bulb and the yellow collar.

Definitely like the idea though.


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## barls

Thought about but couldn't get it small and neat enough. Need a set of wad punches


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## Beerisyummy

> Thought about but couldn't get it small and neat enough. Need a set of wad punches
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I still need to see the boys at http://www.fluidseals.com.au/ if you get the chance drop in.


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## FmC

AzzA68 said:


> G'day Gents,
> ....../ Someone, sorry can't remember who, posed the idea of modifying the bulb retainer so that bulbs can be slid in and out of the assembled lids without the need of disassembly. I like this idea very much; it opens up the possibility to force carbonate, top-up pour pressure if the bulb is empty, and to mix gasses (for stout etc). It also means that pressure from natural carbonation is less likely to be lost when you stuff up, or get, the bulb height wrong; no need to take the lid off the bottle, just separate the tap mechanism and swap in a new bulb... replace the tap and you're ready to go. We just need a satisfactory method to clean/sanitise the fully assembled lids between uses. I think some metal safe sanitiser and a blast/jet of CO2 would do the job of cleaning the two internal valves.
> 
> Someone, sorry again I forget who, mentioned that Mosa 12g bulbs fit without modification. Has anyone else confirmed if these fit or not?
> I've contacted Mosa for data sheets and availability.
> I've also asked Mosa Taiwan about minimum orders etc; because no-one I can find stock 12g or 8g N2 bulbs for retail in Australia.
> Is anyone else interested in establishing a supply line or placing a group order for modification free 12g CO2 and N2 bulbs?


Hi All, Long time lurker here...

I've been 're-charging' my TK with home-brew since I bought it a few months ago, with help from the info from the origional TK thread here.

I've 're-packed' around 60 TK bottles, all with the Ezy-Chargers 12g MOSA bulbs, & can confirm that they are identical in size & fitment.

I'm interested in the 8g bulbs due to thier lower cost & better availability, but will stick with the 12g's for now (at least untill I run out of them...) I'm sure I contributed to EzyCharger's lack of stock of the 12g bulbs :unsure:

Azza68 brings up a good point regarding Beerisyummy's bulb retainer mod. It's a great idea, & it needs to be pursued further in regards to the cleaning aspect. I think I'm going to convert 8 (1 'batch') of my TK's with the retainer mod. I love my HB, but christ it takes a lot of time dissassembling, cleaning, & re-assembling the TK bottle heads for re-use. The last two times I've done 16 at once - took me about 2 & a half hours from go to woah....  

Cheers. :beer:

- edit -

TK anyone.....


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## AzzA68

I've been giving the cleaning of assemble lids a thought... while I was Dremel'ing the retainers off of 6 lids... committed now.

If you were to fill the fresh empty "keglet" with cleaning solution (like sodium percarbonate) and then invert the bottle and gently squeeze the sides (to make a bit of pressure but not enough to damage/distort the bottle) then, using a small blunt tool, push the valves open to allow the chambers to flush with fluid. Let the whole lot sit for a few hours and then drain, rinse well, and refill with fresh water or non-corrosive sanitising mix. Then flush the chambers again by opening the valves. Job done.

Overall, it's much like cleaning lines in a pub... but on a micro-scale.

Let the whole lot dry until ready for use. Then sanitise the outside of the assembly... fill bottle... prime bottle (or bulk prime)... cap it... wait... wait... wait... wait for the fizz and the maturation... chill for 9 hours... add CO2 bulb... connect dispenser... enjoy HB on tap... go off tap.


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## Beerisyummy

FmC.
Love your work mate.


Now I haven't left any of my TK bottles for long term storage but, I have done a few pretty basic cleans without disassembly of the lids.

Treat em like a keg boys! Was it infected?

I've been flushing mine with water and giving them a starsan rinse if they aren't getting filled up straight away. It seems to work well.


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## AzzA68

The Mosa bulbs took 7 of my 5c coins... I have not yet tried the Leland bulbs, but I reckon they'll need about 9 5c coins; give the length/height difference.

I liked the idea of not having to pull apart the lids so much, that I committed to the idea... damned now  Best of all is it will give the flexibility to use any bulb that can be made fit, be it 8g or 12g. 

rexmybeer, I like your mod; the 5c coins were easy to do but they were damaging the plastic moulding.

If you don't need to pull the lids apart then the seals should last longer. 
The white seals on top of the CO2 bulbs could well likely be replaced with O-rings... it's just a matter of finding the right size.
They grey seat washer gaskets on the gas and beer valves are the ones that will be hard to replace... but... like I said, if they can be left undisturbed they should last longer.


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## AzzA68

The nitrogen thingy is a bit more complex... N2 doesn't compress as well as CO2, so you need more to push the same quantity of beer. Pubmix gas was he answer to that and other issues. N2 and CO2 and isn't available in bulbs... but... according to the Mosa website... you can order custom gas mixes. Obviously there would be a minimum order.

The other option is to naturally carbonate, and then push with N2 a a reduced rate... if you've enjoyed a draught Guinness then you've enjoyed the wait.

I have access to LN2 at work (liquid nitrogen) so I could naturally carb and then open the keglet and drop in some LN2... it boils off immediately and turns to gas... so you have to seal the lid ASAP and be very careful about how much LN2 you add; otherwise the whole keglet goes boom! A beer-grenade! Spectacular but such a waste. This BTW is how Guinness fizz their draught cans, with LN2 and a million dollar pingpong ball (AKA "widget").


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## FmC

Beerisyummy said:


> FmC.
> Love your work mate.
> 
> 
> Now I haven't left any of my TK bottles for long term storage but, I have done a few pretty basic cleans without disassembly of the lids.
> 
> Treat em like a keg boys! Was it infected?
> 
> I've been flushing mine with water and giving them a starsan rinse if they aren't getting filled up straight away. It seems to work well.


Thanks :chug:

When I was building up my stock of TK bottles, some sat for maybe a month or so. I had rinsed them, but there was obviously still some dregs in the valves.
When I got around to using them, I found two problems; Mould forming in/around the valves, & the co2 bulb starting to corrode.

I now take them apart after they are empty, clean the parts, & put them in a container, ready for the next bottling session.


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## AzzA68

FmC said:


> ....
> I've 're-packed' around 60 TK bottles, all with the Ezy-Chargers 12g MOSA bulbs, & can confirm that they are identical in size & fitment.
> 
> I'm interested in the 8g bulbs due to thier lower cost & better availability, but will stick with the 12g's for now (at least untill I run out of them...) I'm sure I contributed to EzyCharger's lack of stock of the 12g bulbs :unsure:
> 
> ... Beerisyummy's bulb retainer mod. ...


60!! my liver salutes you 

I've committed my first 6 TK lids to the retainer-less mod, and have another 2 newbies chilling/emptying, and to be honest I think the valves and seals will last the longer for it... and my patience. (seriously? you pulled down and reassembled 60 of those lids?!?!? makes bottling into stubbies sound easy  )


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## FmC

AzzA68 said:


> 60!! my liver salutes you
> 
> I've committed my first 6 TK lids to the retainer-less mod, and have another 2 newbies chilling/emptying, and to be honest I think the valves and seals will last the longer for it... and my patience. (seriously? you pulled down and reassembled 60 of those lids?!?!? makes bottling into stubbies sound easy  )


lol - not 60 at once... but I have cleaned/bottled 16 at once, the last two times I have brewed a double batch.
I'll be putting down another brew within the next few days, which should be ready by the time I have 8 empty TK's, so I'll have to test this retainer mod out.


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## Beerisyummy

> lol - not 60 at once... but I have cleaned/bottled 16 at once, the last two times I have brewed a double batch.
> I'll be putting down another brew within the next few days, which should be ready by the time I have 8 empty TK's, so I'll have to test this retainer mod out.


You won't regret modifying the bulb retaining system. It serves no purpose other than to keep the bulb inside the lid before and after use.

The only downside is that you have to remember to reach inside the head unit to remove the bulb assembly after removing the botte. Definite first world problem!


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## FreeBaseBuzz

I think I've found out why people are having some small issues using Beerisyummy's mod described on the first page of this thread, with regards to 7 5c pieces or 8.

It is suggested to use 2 white washers due to the offset caused by the yellow section and the fatter neck of the 8g bulbs. Doing it this way means the spike that pierces the bulb has to travel around 2-3mm further than with the stock 12g bulb.

I used a Dremel with the narrow sanding drum to widen the neck on the yellow section so the head of the 8g bulb can sit up at the same height as the 12g one does. Apart from that, I followed Beerisyummy's guide exactly.

(the narrow ones of these.)






I also used the Dremel to cut off the 12g bulb at the right height to use as a spacer. 
Seems to work well, but I'll be able to let you know for sure this weekend, as I won't be kegging (and kegletting) till Sunday.


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## donrisotto

Just a heads up guys; Keep the CO2 caddies AWAY from hot water, just found out the hard way they melt like cheese in the sun.  managed to get them all back together but I think i've significantly shortened their lifespan.

however, if you're really keen a bit of careful hot gun application/steam/boiling water could solve all your spacing issues


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## AzzA68

If people are keen to only ever use 8g bulbs of one particular brand; you could fill the bottom of the bulb holder with resin or modeling putty. Something like 2 part Araldite, JB Weld, or Selleys Knead It. Use a spent bulb to make the casting... either wrap it in cling-wrap or paint it with PVA glue as a release agent. 

EDIT: use a fine brush for the PVA, make sure the coating is thorough, and let it dry first.

There are also two part modeling putties available that set into a silicone rubber compound, these might be useful if you want to use 8g bulbs from different manufactures; the set putty is quite rigid but still flexible, so it should have enough give to account for bulbs that have a ~2-3mm difference in height. These putties are used for making dental moulds, and ear-plugs, etc... I have some and will give it a try, in about a month when my next batch nears drink-ability.

Using either of these methods would overcome the stress damage that the 5c coins do to the bulb holder; enough damage and the plastic will become porous... which is, obviously, bad.


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## Brewa

Thanks for all the info on the mods, I'm convinced I can easily do the conversion for the 8G bottles (once I find some).
A couple of questions, (as I have had to return my faulty tap king unit and can't experiment), can you use plastic wine corks as a spacer instead of the 5c coins? You could cut them into whatever shape/height you want and it has a little flex in it as well.

Also, where is the piercing pin, in each bottle or in the tap king dispenser?


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## barls

In each bottle mate


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## Beerisyummy

It's too early in the morning to crack a bottle of wine and find out! :drinks:

Just compare the cork to the diameter of a 5c piece. It doesn't really matter what you use as a spacer, as long as it does the job.



Freebasebuzz,
I just noticed your post on drilling out the plastic to accept the fatter neck on the 8g bulbs. That was the way I first tried making things work. I had varying results with the handheld machining. 
I'll have to give it another go with the dentists drill.


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## sticksy

sorry if this has been asked. when using the tap king do we carb as usual in the tap king bottle or bulk prime? ive only got the one fermenter ATM and no space.

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## Beerisyummy

sticksy,

Both bulk priming and adding sugar directly to the bottle will work. It really depends on what you want from the finished product.
Personally, I find bulk priming easier. 

If you naturally carb the beer you'll end up with more sediment than force carbing. Simple as that.


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## sticksy

does it affect the taste much either way? 

im restricted by space and funds to bottle priming at the mo but have a few donated TK bottles and am keen to try this. 

how long do you need to chill the conditioned bottle before the TK system will pour correctly? 


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## Beerisyummy

Taste is a personal thing. Many styles of beer will taste just fine with a little sediment.
Just do it and see what you think.

The bottle needs to be below 4c before it will work as intended. You can tweak the regulator to adjust the unit from factory settings if you want.


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## sticksy

thanks for the help!

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## Brewa

Thx for your earlier replies.

For those using the 5c pieces to get the 8 G cannister to the correct height, I tried using a plastic wine bottle cork but that was too hard to shape, instead I used a proper wine bottle cork (made of cork, of course). 

I sanded it to fit into the bulb holder and it didn't take long to do. All you need is a bit of sandpaper and a sharp blade/Stanley Knife.

Sand around the side of the cork until it slides in to the bulb holder ( you can make it as tight or loose as you like) then you can take out the cork and slice it until it's the desired height. Being cork its also got a bit of sponginess for a bit of give and take. If you force the cork in and can't get it out, use a corkscrew or long screw to pull it out and sand some more off it.

Using a wine cork means you can switch between 8G, and other length cannisters (12G). 

Now when I manage to get my hands on an 8G cannister and get a replacement TapKing, ( I had a faulty one), I can try out the mods properly.

Anyone know where in Melbourne I can walk in and buy the 8G cannisters? I've tried numerous supermarkets, and am now well-versed in the dumb look followed by "No, we don't have em" scenario. Whilst Big W stock them, the CBD store does not stock them nor intend to get any in.

I've ordered some from Ezychargers, but I have a brew ready for bottling next weekend and not sure if they will arrive by then.

The other thing I'm finding is the on-line sites are charging almost and sometimes more than the 10 Pack costs itself in shipping. I don't want to buy in bulk until I can get the mods working.


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## FreeBaseBuzz

Brewa, try catering stores or kitchen supply stores. 

Also, if you do Beerisyummy's mod (on page 3 of this thread, i think), to remove the tabs, you can bottle without having the canisters, as you can just slide them in after the beer is bottled and sealed


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## Brewa

FreeBaseBuzz said:


> Brewa, try catering stores or kitchen supply stores.
> 
> Also, if you do Beerisyummy's mod (on page 3 of this thread, i think), to remove the tabs, you can bottle without having the canisters, as you can just slide them in after the beer is bottled and sealed


Thanks FreeBaseBuzz, I will try to find some in the CBD.
I've done the mods to two empties (thats all I have), but haven't had a chance to try them out because I've had to return my faulty Tapking and 4 suspect bottles for investigation and waiting on the replacements now. I visited about 7 stores looking for 8G cannisters and whilst everyone in those stores claims to know where to get them, none could name a store. I have some on order off the internet, hopefully they (and the Tap King) arrive soon.
I have a 10 litre IPA brew bubbling away and would like it to be my first tapking with real beer.


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## carpedaym

FreeBaseBuzz said:


> It is suggested to use 2 white washers due to the offset caused by the yellow section and the fatter neck of the 8g bulbs. Doing it this way means the spike that pierces the bulb has to travel around 2-3mm further than with the stock 12g bulb.


I was starting to wonder about this. My experience *with the Leland / Mr Fizz* brand bulbs was causing me some headaches.

My tests:

6 x 5c pieces: no puncture. 
7 x 5c: pin only just punctured and pluged its own hole. Discharged gas upon removal of bottle.
"7.5" x 5c (achieved using thicker, foreign coins): pin still plugged its own small hole. Upon removal, the gas blew the black o ring which sits around the top of the yellow bit in half. NARRG! Swapped o rings from second bottle.
8 x 5c: Almost. It seemed to puncture and after wriggling the bottle it seemed to work... but eventually lost pressure. Upon removal I found the black o-ring had rolled up over the yellow piece slightly. I've since tightened some of the screws in the tap king unit in case that was causing problem.

ANYWAY, getting to the point: How much higher does the top of the yellow piece have to sit, compared to where it would be with a 12g cartridge?

(Pics for reference)





_Do I need my 8g cartridge to be higher so the top of the bulb aligns with the 12g one? _I had been worried that if the yellow tip ended up stickup up too high then it would hit the silver/chrome part in the TK unit, and that as you mounted the bottle it would put excessive pressure on the system.

I thought I'd seek some advice before trying any more, as I don't want to end up blowing up my only other o-ring.


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## AzzA68

carpedaym said:


> ANYWAY, getting to the point: How much higher does the top of the yellow piece have to sit, compared to where it would be with a 12g cartridge?
> 
> (Pics for reference)
> 
> 
> 
> tk-8g-differences.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> tk-8g-diff-naked.jpg
> 
> _Do I need my 8g cartridge to be higher so the top of the bulb aligns with the 12g one? _I had been worried that if the yellow tip ended up stickup up too high then it would hit the silver/chrome part in the TK unit, and that as you mounted the bottle it would put excessive pressure on the system.
> 
> I thought I'd seek some advice before trying any more, as I don't want to end up blowing up my only other o-ring.


Well, thing have been quiet in here; everyone must be brewing... or drinking.

The two must end up the same height; otherwise you will not get the seal at the dispenser and you will not get the piercing pin to travel the required distance.

The biggest issue, between the 12g and 8g bulbs, is not just the height... that's the easiest issue to overcome... the issue is that once the height is corrected the neck of the 8g bulb is still different to the 12g bulb. Of the two 8g bulb brands, I have tried, both have wider necks... one also has a slight stepping at the top (where the seal is welded on)... this can be overcome by using the Dremel (as outlined in FreeBaseBuzz's post @ #87)... or by choosing different sized seals to replace the originals. This will depend on your mechanical skill level and which bulbs you're going to use.

It is critical that:
1. the height of the yellow plastic neck be the same as original; so that the seal is made good against the dispenser and the fixed-pin and the moving piercing pin mate.
2. the height of the 8g bulb be within ~+/-0.5mm (or less) of the 12g height; so that the piercing pin will pierce the foil so that the barbed head passes fully through the foil and the gas may flow past the narrower section of the pin.

Getting #1 right is easy... getting #2 will require some measurements, guesswork, a collection of O-rings, trial and error, some modification (like FreeBaseBuzz), and always using one brand of 8g bulb (unless you really nut it out well).


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## lael

FreeBaseBuzz said:


> I think I've found out why people are having some small issues using Beerisyummy's mod described on the first page of this thread, with regards to 7 5c pieces or 8.
> 
> It is suggested to use 2 white washers due to the offset caused by the yellow section and the fatter neck of the 8g bulbs. Doing it this way means the spike that pierces the bulb has to travel around 2-3mm further than with the stock 12g bulb.
> 
> I used a Dremel with the narrow sanding drum to widen the neck on the yellow section so the head of the 8g bulb can sit up at the same height as the 12g one does. Apart from that, I followed Beerisyummy's guide exactly.
> 
> (the narrow ones of these.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also used the Dremel to cut off the 12g bulb at the right height to use as a spacer.
> Seems to work well, but I'll be able to let you know for sure this weekend, as I won't be kegging (and kegletting) till Sunday.


Hi Freebase,

Did you use the bottles with your mod yet? How did it turn out?


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## Brewa

Hello everyone, I have been experimenting with a couple of brands of 8G soda chargers and had limited success. I have done both mods developed by Beerisyummy but my beer is not ready yet so have been using water only. 

I have had no success with the iSi soda chargers, as they seem to have a thicker top and are difficult to pierce. I found the pin only just pierces the charger and seems to block the gas coming out until you go to take the TK bottle out then it all escapes into thin air. 

I've had success with the Mosa 8g chargers but found that it did not do a full 3.2 litres of water, this could improve with a carbonated beer .

With both mods in place, when you remove the TK bottle, the charger stays in the TK unit (dispenser) does this mean if you needed to, you could top up the gas mid way through the bottle, by disengaging the TK bottle, putting in a new charger? 

Also, when you first engage the bottle, does the charger expel all the gas into the bottle, or does it do it gradually until the beer runs out? 

Any recent experiences people have had would be useful as you must have had more time to try out the mods.


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## Choppy

Hi All,

I'm using 8g "Kayser" brand soda bulbs and found 7 coins didn't pierce, 8 did but blocked the gas, 9 pushes the pin right in like the original and works perfectly.

Empties 3.2 litres of water and has some gas left afterwards.

Also discovered holding the yellow fitting against the end of a spinning 13mm drill bit works spot on to give that 45 degree edge.

I've done 4 now and they all work fine.

The Kayser bulbs are on eBay but I got mine from "House" kitchen shop.


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## Beerisyummy

> Well, thing have been quiet in here; everyone must be brewing... or drinking.


Whoops! I must've turned off the automatic notifications settings. Both of the above reasons are correct.

I'm at the lager stage with my TK's now so I'll get back with an update soon.

The goal is to have clear beer for parties. That is where I think the TK shines.


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## Brewa

Merry Christmas everyone.

I managed to get my hands on the Kayser bulbs from a House store and they do pierce much easier than the iSi bulbs I had. All set, just waiting for my brew to be ready - 1-2 weeks. 

Question on whether gassing is needed. I have a bottle of IPA almost ready for drinking and the tap king bottle is hard as a rock. Should I attempt to put it into the tap king without a charger first? Or should I do something else (let some gas out of the bottle and then put the charger in). I don't want to waste any of the IPA, the last lot I made was so good.


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## Beerisyummy

Brewa said:


> Merry Christmas everyone.
> 
> I managed to get my hands on the Kayser bulbs from a House store and they do pierce much easier than the iSi bulbs I had. All set, just waiting for my brew to be ready - 1-2 weeks.
> 
> Question on whether gassing is needed. I have a bottle of IPA almost ready for drinking and the tap king bottle is hard as a rock. Should I attempt to put it into the tap king without a charger first? Or should I do something else (let some gas out of the bottle and then put the charger in). I don't want to waste any of the IPA, the last lot I made was so good.


Just throw the charger in the bottle and attach it to the head unit. It may be overcarbed, but it should settle down once you chill it below 4c.
Do a search on co2 at different temps and you'll get the idea.

If it does turn out to be overcarbed you can warm it up, give it a shake and depress the tap while holding the bottle upside down. Co2 will come out of solution easily at room temp and the regulator won't be able to do its thing.


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## barls

As he mentioned rock hard while warm then a little flex when cold. 
Never had a problem with the isi ones.


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