# Guide To Keg Forced Carbonation.



## als_world

A few people have been asking about keg forced carbonation lately, so I thought Id take the time to document the process using The Ross Method - http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=8535. There are various opinions on whether this is the best method, but its definitely the quickest and the easiest. Some of the videos might be a bit slow for those on dialup, but Ive tried to keep them around the 500K mark.

Cheers,

Alan.


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## als_world

Step 1 Take the full keg and chill to about 4 deg C or so (this will take 24-48hrs). Note that the green square shows the keg temp.


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## als_world

Step 2 Pull on the pressure release valve to make sure the keg is depressurized. This will stop any possible back flow if the keg is already at high pressure. I recommend using backflow stop valves just in case.


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## als_world

Step 3 - Connect a liquid disconnect (black) to your gas line. Attach this liquid disconnect to the out post of the keg. This will allow you to inject the gas into the keg without having to roll or invert it. I recommend using MFL disconnects to make this step easier. It's a good idea to give the post a quick spray with your favourite no-rinse sanitiser as well beforehand.


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## als_world

Step 4 Turn on your regulator until the pressure is steady at 300kPa or about 45 PSI. You will hear some initial bubbling in the keg as the pressure increases but this will stop after a few seconds.


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## als_world

Step 5 After checking that the gas line is clear of any fragile objects, start rocking the keg back and forth for about 50 seconds. You can see from the video that only gentle rocking is required. You will hear gas bubbling into the keg as you rock it and the pressure on the regulator should stay at around 300kPa. 

View attachment Step_5.wmv


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## als_world

Step 6 Turn the gas off at the regulator and then continue rocking the keg. You will notice the gas pressure on the regulator start to drop quite quickly. The video shows the rough speed that the pressure drops back. This should stop at around about 140-160kPa. If the pressure drop stops above 160kPa you may have overgassed the beer by rocking for longer than 50 seconds. If it falls below 140kPa, the beer is not gassed enough and you will need to repeat steps 4-6 again but for 10-15 seconds only for step 4. 

View attachment Step_6.wmv


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## als_world

Step 7 Wait for an hour or so and then vent the excess pressure via the pressure relief valve. If you decide to do this right away, the video shows what will happen. 

View attachment Step_7.wmv


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## als_world

Step 8 Reconnect the gas disconnect (grey) to the gas line and connect to the keg in post,


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## als_world

Step 9 Turn on the regulator to repressurise the keg back to serving pressure (about 100kPa or 15PSI)


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## als_world

Step 10 Serve and enjoy !!!


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## Foz

Unreal als_world!

A picture truely can tell a thousand words - and a video (or three) can tell even more then that! Sure a simple method to get the job done quickly!

Cheers!

Foz


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## Phrak

Als_World, many MANY thanks. It sure helps newbies to see what's happening first hand.

I've booked-marked this page, but it get's my vote for being a "Sticky" post. 
Mods, how about it? 

:beer: 
Tim


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## Doc

Phrak said:


> I've booked-marked this page, but it get's my vote for being a "Sticky" post.
> Mods, how about it?



Indeed. Great post. Tis now Sticky.

Doc


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## Batz

Doc said:


> Indeed. Great post. Tis now Sticky.
> 
> Doc



Yes that will be very helpful to new keggers

The "als_world" method :super: 

Batz


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## KillerRx4

I will do this occasionally if i want to get stuck into the keg straight away but have never switched QD's & gassed through the liquid out post.
Do you really think it makes a difference?


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## Ross

KillerRx4 said:


> I will do this occasionally if i want to get stuck into the keg straight away but have never switched QD's & gassed through the liquid out post.
> Do you really think it makes a difference?



The only difference it makes is that you can shake upright, as the CO2 is being bubbled through from the bottom - If you don't want to gas via the beer out (I only have grey connects to my gas line & don't like forcing the connection) it's just a case of rolling the keg on it's side, back & forwards, with the gas connection lower most.

cheers Ross


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## Joel

Great thread. Great timing too as I'm in the last stages of getting my keg fridge setup. I've never gassed a keg before so my question might have an obvious answer. I don't understand why you need to use a liquid disconnect for the initial high pressure injection. Surely using a gas disconnect would do the same job without all the mucking about changing disconnects over?


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## als_world

It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine. 

One other advantage of doing it this way is that I've never had any liquid backflow into the gas tube. When I used to lie the keg down and roll I would sometime get the beer flowing back 5-10cm into the gas tube as the pressure equalised. I may have been rolling too vigorously.

In any case, use the method that works best for you.

Cheers,

Alan.


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## Joel

Why can't you connect the gas disconnect up to the liquid side of the keg? From a quick look at my disconnects they look identical to each other except for the colour. I though the colours were just to keep them from getting mixed up?


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## Phrak

Joel, be assured that the Gas & Liquid disconnects LOOK the same, but are slightly different. Check out this post for more details:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=9236

Regards,
Tim.


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## Millet Man

Good post Alan.

I gassed my first keg on Saturday with a more hit and miss approach, this will give make it more systematic next time.



Phrak said:


> Joel, be assured that the Gas & Liquid disconnects LOOK the same, but are slightly different. Check out this post for more details:
> http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=9236



I used the gas in disconnect on the beer out post to gas and it worked OK but will it do damage if done long term?

When my 4 way manifold arrives this week I will setup 3 for serving kegs/taps and put a black beer out disconnect on the other line to use for forced carbonation to get it right.

Cheers, Andrew.


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## normell

Millet Man said:


> When my 4 way manifold arrives this week I will setup 3 for serving kegs/taps and put a black beer out disconnect on the other line to use for forced carbonation to get it right.
> 
> Cheers, Andrew.



That' show I've got mine set up, works well.
Got a GMK non return valve on the black beer out disconnect tho


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## als_world

Millet Man said:


> Good post Alan.
> 
> I gassed my first keg on Saturday with a more hit and miss approach, this will give make it more systematic next time.
> 
> 
> 
> Phrak said:
> 
> 
> 
> Joel, be assured that the Gas & Liquid disconnects LOOK the same, but are slightly different. Check out this post for more details:
> http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=9236
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the gas in disconnect on the beer out post to gas and it worked OK but will it do damage if done long term?
> 
> When my 4 way manifold arrives this week I will setup 3 for serving kegs/taps and put a black beer out disconnect on the other line to use for forced carbonation to get it right.
> 
> Cheers, Andrew.
Click to expand...


Thanks Andrew.

I'm surprised you were able to get the gas disconnect onto the out post, and get it off again !!!

In most cases if you try hard enough, or if your keg posts are slightly worn, you can get the wrong disconnect to go on, but getting it off is another story. 

I don't recommend trying the "opposite" disconnect on either the gas or the liquid keg posts.

Using a manifold is an ideal way to gas your kegs as it allows one line to be dedicated to gassing. Just remember to turn off the valves to the other kegs before you increase the pressure to 300kPa, or you will get a nasty surprise next time you pour a beer from one of them !!!!

Cheers,

Alan.


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## Ross

als_world said:


> It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine.



Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
Are they a John Guest fitting?

cheers Ross


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## Agarn

Whilst we're on the subject. I currently have a Coopers Ale carbonating in the fridge. All my brews take 24 hours, once chilled, to carbonate. Any longer than that and I end up with ice creams when I pour. Problem is that this one won't carbonate! It's been four days and all I get is 1/4 inch of head and no bubbles. The only difference between this keg and all my others is that this one was sitting in the shed for 3 weeks prior to chilling. Of course living in Canberra it's been pretty cold so I don't think temperature is a problem. Any suggestions. (I have tried the Ross method)


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## als_world

Ross said:


> als_world said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
> Are they a John Guest fitting?
> 
> cheers Ross
Click to expand...


Hi Ross,

I bought all mine from the US a while back, so I'm not sure who would stock them in Oz. They seem to be pretty common, so I imagine anyone here that stocks the normal barbed disconnects should be able to get their hands on them (GMK to the rescue ??).

They aren't John Guest, they are a threaded fitting. There's a good pic here -> http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=18269. You need the disconnect, plus the swivel nut and barb.

I'll take some photos tonight when I get home to show you how they go together.

Cheers,

Alan.


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## JasonY

Ross said:


> KillerRx4 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will do this occasionally if i want to get stuck into the keg straight away but have never switched QD's & gassed through the liquid out post.
> Do you really think it makes a difference?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only difference it makes is that you can shake upright, as the CO2 is being bubbled through from the bottom - If you don't want to gas via the beer out (I only have grey connects to my gas line & don't like forcing the connection) it's just a case of rolling the keg on it's side, back & forwards, with the gas connection lower most.
> 
> cheers Ross
Click to expand...


When I used to force carb I used the gas disconnect (lazy) and you don't have to turn it on its side you just rock as above and you will hear the gas going in, it will just be a little bit more rocking as you are not getting as much gas/liquid contact as bubbling via the liquid line. Turning the keg on its side is prone to getting liquid in the line so I just don't do it unless I remove the gas line before tipping.

Regardless of connection method etc the main thing is consistancy in technique that will give you what you are after.


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## ausdb

als_world said:


> Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
> Are they a John Guest fitting?
> cheers Ross



Hi Ross,
They aren't John Guest, they are a threaded fitting. There's a good pic here -> http://morebeer.com/product.html?product_id=18269. You need the disconnect, plus the swivel nut and barb.
[/quote]

Ross if you use the semi rigid beer/gas line just try and get hold of a John Guest 5/16" joiner. The are pretty easy to release and swap around as you please
Or even better as you sell S/S stones just hook one of those up to your gas dip tube in the keg on a long piece of tubing so it goes to the bottom of the keg. Hook your gas up to it at normal carbonation pressures and then release the relief valve till you hear it bubbling. Go away for 1/2 an hour then come back and do it again, repeat about 4 times and will be pretty much carbonated up.
TIP If you leave the keg out of the fridge to warm up then make sure you bleed off the headspace before connecting it back to your gas, other wise beer will work its way bak up the stoen and tubing into your gas system!!!


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## sosman

I just use the gas disconnect and just turn the reg up flat out and shake like buggery. I used to turn the keg on its side but I don't bother anymore.

Also, I am in the habit of chilling the beer in the fermenter before I transfer to keg. Since I normally keg on the weekend, I start the chilling on say Thu night. I have no problems sampling beer pretty much after shake rattle and roll bizzo although it definitately takes a bit to settle down to the perfect carbonation.


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## Jye

Ross said:


> als_world said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's your choice as to whether you want to use the liquid or the gas post. As I mentioned, I use MFL connections so the swapover is a 30 second job and lets me keep the keg upright all the time. If you use barbed disconnects or don't mind rolling/inverting the keg, then the gas post is fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where can you get the flare fittings that connect your threaded disconnects to the line please?
> Are they a John Guest fitting?
> 
> cheers Ross
Click to expand...


The HBS literally has a box full of these, I picked up some on the weekend to make a jumper.


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## bugwan

Great thread als_world! Thanks for going to the trouble of adding the multimedia. There's nothing quite like seeing to assist learning.

My favourite sources of information for brewing (other than here) are Paul's Illustrated brewing guide, Craft Brew Radio and Brewing podcasts (among others).

Sorry to go OT, hopefully some of the links help others.

Cheers


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## Ross

Jye said:


> The HBS literally has a box full of these, I picked up some on the weekend to make a jumper.



As I was looking at using these on my soon to be released filtering system, I was looking for a main supplier rather than a hbs...

cheers Ross


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## Batz

Ross said:


> [As I was looking at using these on my soon to be released filtering system, I was looking for a main supplier rather than a hbs...
> 
> cheers Ross



I always buy this stuff from BD Ross,can't get anywhere near their price in Oz,air freight is stuff all on these little pieces

Batz

http://www.brewersdiscount.com/productCat23623.ctlg


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## dicko

Ross said:


> Jye said:
> 
> 
> 
> The HBS literally has a box full of these, I picked up some on the weekend to make a jumper.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I was looking at using these on my soon to be released filtering system, I was looking for a main supplier rather than a hbs...
> 
> cheers Ross
Click to expand...


Hi Ross,
From memory Grain and Grape do these fittings in AUS but they would come to our fair land from 3 B in the US of A. A quantity buy would be from the US I would imagine, either 3 B or BD if they are still trading.
Cheers


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## als_world

In case anyone is interested, I've taken some close up pics of the MFL disconnects. IMHO, these are much better than the barbed disconnects as they allow all sorts of connections and jumper lines to be made up without needing disconnects permantly attached, or having to resort to cutting and refitting every time a disconnect needs to be changed.

Pic1 shows the stem and lock nut before the line is connected
Pic2 shows the line connected to the stem and lock nut in place
Pic3 shows a close up of the MFL thread on the disconnect
Pic4 shows the whole thing assembled.

Note that I've left the hose clamp off for clarity.

Cheers,

Alan.


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## floppinab

Should the shake time be the same using a smaller keg, say a 7 litre. My head tells me less volume should = less shake but I'm not so sure.


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## Ross

floppinab said:


> Should the shake time be the same using a smaller keg, say a 7 litre. My head tells me less volume should = less shake but I'm not so sure.



YES....

cheers Ross


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## sstacey

Can I follow the same instructions (Ross Method to force carbonate a keg) when my keg of beer is at room temperature? I am going to use a "magic box" until I get my fridge sorted, so I can't chill the beer before carbonation.

Is this a problem, or can I still use the Ross Method? Any adjustments that I need to make?
Thanks


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## Thunderlips

SPS said:


> Can I follow the same instructions (Ross Method to force carbonate a keg) when my keg of beer is at room temperature? I am going to use a "magic box" until I get my fridge sorted, so I can't chill the beer before carbonation.


I reckon you probably could but since the beer is warm it'll take a whole lot more of "forcing".
Use Alan's idea of connecting the gas to the "beer out" line and it'll be a whole lot easier since you wont need to pick the keg up and shake it. You'll need MFL quick disconnects to do it though.


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## albrews

SPS said:


> Can I follow the same instructions (Ross Method to force carbonate a keg) when my keg of beer is at room temperature? I am going to use a "magic box" until I get my fridge sorted, so I can't chill the beer before carbonation.
> 
> Is this a problem, or can I still use the Ross Method? Any adjustments that I need to make?
> Thanks



hi,
yes ,force carb is ok at ambient or room temp, say around 20 dec c . you can try higher pressure for higher temp, but you will find that at dispensing at room temp the gas comes out of solution leaving you with a low gassed beer. or having gassed at room temp you could use an ice bucket to keep the keg in and the gas will stay dissolved in the beer at a lower dispensing pressure, say 8psi. fellow brewers have told me they take a keg to a local cold store,e.g. ice works e.t.c for cooling.
cheers alan


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## sstacey

Thanks Albrews and Thunderlips,
Actually because I'm using a magic box to cool the beer before it comes out the tap the beer should stay carbonated in the glass, so I think it should work fine. 
Many thanks. :chug:


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## albrews

SPS said:


> Thanks Albrews and Thunderlips,
> Actually because I'm using a magic box to cool the beer before it comes out the tap the beer should stay carbonated in the glass, so I think it should work fine.
> Many thanks. :chug:



hi
by a magic box do you mean a temprite machine i.e. a refrig unit, or a chillplate esky type of thing.
i have found that so long as the beer is cooled before the tap then a good beer carbonation is achieved.
i was at the hotel recently and the beer font nearly had ice on it.and the beer was nicely gassed .
i have not inspected a hotel installation as yet, but i am looking forward to one.and can anyone comment on a typical hotel installation.

cheers alan


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## sstacey

I just mean the esky type. I will use a refrigerator when I finally find one thats not too expensive.
Pubs generally use a flooded font (beer is cooled through to the tap, thats why there is condensation on it). I have not had a close look at a commercial one either but I would think they would be pretty similar to the flooded fonts that home brewers use.


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## albrews

SPS said:


> I just mean the esky type. I will use a refrigerator when I finally find one thats not too expensive.
> Pubs generally use a flooded font (beer is cooled through to the tap, thats why there is condensation on it). I have not had a close look at a commercial one either but I would think they would be pretty similar to the flooded fonts that home brewers use.



hi sps, thanks for your input, and message understood. i suppose a glycol circuit just helps the chilling.

cheers alan


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## Wortgames

From what I've seen, most pubs these days (particularly in the city) seem to use a temprite, ie the kegs aren't chilled but the beer is passed through a glycol unit that does basically the same job as a 'magic' box.

In the country though, pubs often have a large coolroom, and they just keep the kegs chilled. Probably because country pubs double as bottle shops, with less frequent deliveries, and this is a cheaper way to do it. They need somewhere to keep the parmas and the raffle prizes too 

The flooded font doesn't aim to chill the beer at all, it just helps to keep it cold right up to the moment it leaves the tap. They are better in terms of foaming but they can drip a lot of condensation and obviously take energy to run too, which is worth bearing in mind for the home brewer.


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## sstacey

Interesting Wortgames, 
I've learned my one thing for the day. Time to knock-off and go home for a beer.


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## Back Yard Brewer

SPS said:


> I am going to use a "magic box" until I get my fridge sorted, so I can't chill the beer before carbonation.



I used my miracle box for the first time over Xmas/Newyear. I do have a fridge and font set-up. My problem was I also needed to chill down one of my kegs but had no room. The answer, I put it in my chest freezer over night (around 6-8 hrs). Took it out opened up the lid to make sure it was not "beer slush" put the lid back on and carbonated my usual way. Turned out great, I was very impressed with my effort. If you have a problem and it is to cold just let it stand for a while. I did not quite finish it of in one sitting so I just stored it in my cellar and nudged it a few days later.


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## PostModern

I've just discovered the joys of the Masmaster temperature controller in conjunction with a chest freezer. I held a couple ales at 18 for a couple weeks, then dialled it down to 6 for a week. Racked straight from the primary into kegs and gassed them up in the keg fridge. 

A Beautiful Thing, beer entering the keg at 6C. Carbonation is a day quicker.


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## paul d

als_world said:


> Step 9 Turn on the regulator to repressurise the keg back to serving pressure (about 100kPa or 15PSI)


thanks for the help i will try the forced carbonation


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## Kingy

im in the process now of gassing my first ever keg. and i couldnt wait so im doing it the ross method way.
just alittle note.

The hour wait after rocking the keg back and forth is like waiting 3 hours.

i just want to give my system a go.

For some reason i think if this works which im sure it will.. it means im gunna turn up to work with a hangover tomorrow

ill just tell the missus when she gets home. "i know im pissed,whats for dinner,come have a look at me kegs,feel like a beer.." or maybe not. :beerbang: 

p.s the rubber on top of my cornys lifted up when cleaning with hot water any tips on gluing it back down

cheers kingy..


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## Doogiechap

It's an exiting moment isn't it bloke ! I just had my first keg blow dry  . 
As far as repairing the ends of your Keg look HERE  
Cheers
Doug


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## Kingy

cool thx mate i know a panel beater who has this stuff, a few extra beers to him and it should all be sweet

thx again

time to get back to my kegs.


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## Kingy

just thought id add... is that.. when u finish carbing beer for your first time ,using kegs, and u get a decent pour. You quickly skull that beer just to make sure that the next one pours the same and so on.

so beware....(in my case) im very well aware of it but i still keep drinklng my beer as fast as possile just to check to see if the next one is the same.

and when the next beer is the same, i repeat again

hungover in advance
kingy..


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## Ross

Kingy said:


> The hour wait after rocking the keg back and forth is like waiting 3 hours.



You only need to wait 10 to 15 mins - just long enough for the foam inside to settle, so that when you release the pressure, beer doesn't squirt everywhere out the relief valve.

cheers Ross


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## raistlin_kell

I'd very much like to see how well the head remained for this carbonation method. Does the head remain right to the bottom of the glass or did it go flat fast? Can someone please let me know?


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## Adamt

Carbonation method has absolutely no bearing on head retention. Head retention depends on things such as glass cleanliness, amount of carbonation, and "body" of the beer. Just like all carbonation methods this one may require calibration to your system, it does work but can lead to overcarbonated (or undercarbonated) beer if your system is a little different to the norm or you do it incorrectly.


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## Cortez The Killer

Quick question I've used the Ross method on 4 kegs now

And have pretty much got it down pat

My first keg I did over carbonate but I did managed to release the pressure but rocking and opening the release valve over a few hours.

The following three were a little flat but carb up after a further 2 days at pouring pressure ~ 90kpa - I figured I was better off with slightly flat beer that over carbed beer again 

Anyway what I've noticed is that in step 6 when I keep shaking the keg it does not stabilise but rather the gauge drops to 0.

I was wondering if this is a function of the check valve installed on the gas line?

I've been limiting my keg shaking to 50 secs and haven't tried repeating this for shorter periods as I did with the first keg as I can't get the gauge to stabilise

Cheers


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## Screwtop

Cortez The Killer said:


> Quick question I've used the Ross method on 4 kegs now
> 
> Anyway what I've noticed is that in step 6 when I keep shaking the keg it does not stabilise but rather the gauge drops to 0.
> 
> I was wondering if this is a function of the check valve installed on the gas line?
> 
> I've been limiting my keg shaking to 50 secs and haven't tried repeating this for shorter periods as I did with the first keg as I can't get the gauge to stabilise
> 
> Cheers



Same here cortez, been that way since the first keg. Doesn't return to zero but the pressure just keeps dropping on the guage as long as I keep rocking. Routine here for a full keg @ 4C is to rock at 300Kpa for 70 sec, turn off gas and rock until the pressure drops to 100Kpa. Remove gas and wait 1 hour, purge gas hook up tap and gas (serving pressure 80kpa) lines and pour away. :blink: works for me.


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## Cortez The Killer

I'll give 70 secs a go next time and see how it goes

Cheers


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## bljpoad

I just did my first force carb and sample from my kegs (test run before I set the rugby team loose on them after the game on Sat). Came out quite nice with a 300KPa force, shook it down to 100KPa on the dial and left it for an hour. Not sure if this one will make it as far as Saturday now come to think of it....  
- Berwyck


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## tbone

If I made a brew, but wasn't going to tap it for a few weeks/months am i best off leaving it flat and only carbonating a few days before intend to drink it?

by the way great thread, so informative and easy to follow, thanks guys

t-bone


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## SJW

Looking at setting up my first keg system. All the info on this thread is very interesting, but.....
Back at the start of the thread it was mentioned that to balance the system is dependant on the diameter of the beer out line and length of line. What I want to do to start up is just have the tap inside the fridge on the disconect. Would this method result in loads of ice-cream or are these taps regulated? 
Steve


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## Cortez The Killer

My understanding is that you need to turn the pressure right down when pouring - this will flatten the beer a little after a couple of beers - but you can bump up the pressure again overnight or between pours

Cheers


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## Thunderlips

tbone said:


> If I made a brew, but wasn't going to tap it for a few weeks/months am i best off leaving it flat and only carbonating a few days before intend to drink it?


I'm not sure that it matters either way but the few kegs that I've carbonated and left aside for a couple of months they have always turned out real nice. Better than those that I've gotten stuck into right away.
This is why I'm trying to get ahead of myself and I've been in brew overload mode so I can store some for a while. Gotta keep stocking up on those kegs. Buy em while the prices are still decent, fill them and let them sit in the corner for a while.


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## Thunderlips

SJW said:


> What I want to do to start up is just have the tap inside the fridge on the disconect. Would this method result in loads of ice-cream or are these taps regulated?
> Steve


Do you mean a tap that connects directly to the "out" post of the keg, like this below?
http://craftbrewer.com.au/index.php?page=s...t&Itemid=29
I've got one which use with my 9L kegs and it works nicely. You just need to drop the pouring preasure.
There are regulated taps such as the Celli, which are available at the above link, but they don't fit the adaptor


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## SJW

> Do you mean a tap that connects directly to the "out" post of the keg, like this below?
> http://craftbrewer.com.au/index.php?page=s...t&Itemid=29
> I've got one which use with my 9L kegs and it works nicely. You just need to drop the pouring preasure.
> There are regulated taps such as the Celli, which are available at the above link, but they don't fit the adaptor


Yes thats it. I just can't see the point in having metres of beer line going to a font or a tap that needs a hole in the fridge. Otherwise I would just get a Pluto gun but they are about $100 so I reckon those taps directly on the keg are the go. Esspecially if u only drink one or 2 beers a night. Also I like to do a lot of big beers that go well in a bottle with a bit of age on em.
I know... some smart ass will drag this post up in 1 or 2 years time when I am asking how to set up my 6 tap glycol flooded font  

Steve


----------



## rockin49

Hi All..

After reading this forum for the past month, and learning a lot in the process, I am posting for the first time. 

I used to kit brew and bottle years ago, now am trying my hand at AG brewing and kegging. Here's a couple of pics of my fridge setup (BTW, thanks Ross for great service and stock - most of my gear is from Ross). 








Last night I kegged my first brew and today I performed the "Ross Method" forced carbonation. Not sure what I've done wrong, but it's definately overcarbonated (75% head while pouring @ 1PSI and flat). I have approx 1mtr of beer line for each tap (length that came with the twin tap font) and cranked the pressure up to 45PSI and shook for 60secs.. the pressure fell down to approx 10PSI after a couple more minutes of shaking so I bumped the pressure back up to 45PSI for 10 secs, then repeated process. Pressure sat at 15PSI so I assumed this was OK. It's been a couple of hours since gassing.

Can anyone help out? The beer is a Nelson Sauvin Summer Ale... tastes good, smells good, just flat with a big fluffy head 

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## Ross

Sounds like you've over carbed a touch.

The rocking after carbing should just be for approx 20seconds before you see the neddle slow right up & that's when you should read it. If you kept rocking for 2 minutes, then it would eventually drop lower.

Unfortunately the only solution is to open up the relief valve & leave for a day or 2.
Or, if you have another spare keg, pour half into that, which will then enable you to give them a gentle shake to release the gas quicker.

cheers Ross


----------



## Darren

Ross said:


> Sounds like you've over carbed a touch.
> 
> 
> Or, if you have another spare keg, pour half into that, which will then enable you to give them a gentle shake to release the gas quicker.
> 
> cheers Ross




Ross,

Have you ever poured carbonated (let alone over-carbonated) beer from a keg?

Rockin, just release some of the gas if you can. Pouring will be a big mess. Dont do it.

cheers

Darren


----------



## rockin49

It's been about 6 or so hours since kegging. I have released gas (through release valve) a few times since - it appears that the head has reduced about 10-15%.. beer is still flat. Have now left the release valve up and will check it in a day.

I assume a day or two of leaving release valve up will make the beer completely flat and I need to restart the gassing process again? Or will it flatten the beer to a 'drinkable' level?

I have a Porter ready for kegging and want to practise on this one first 

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## mobrien

Transfering from one keg to another is easy - all you need is a hose with liquid disconnects on each side. So I'm with Ross, transfer half to another keg and gentle shake - it'll be easier than dealing with next to no headspace to release the pressure.

I've overcarbed once, and the shake and release the pressure (an hour later! believe me, don't do it just after you shake!) does work - it took me abour 4 releases though over two days! At the end it was perfect, I just gassed up to serving pressure and it was right.

M


----------



## Jye

rockin49 said:


> I have a Porter ready for kegging and want to practise on this one first



To all new keggers... *STOP* using this method! There are dozen of posts with exactly the same story of over carbonation.

Have some patience and carbonate by hooking up at serving pressure and leaving for a week, this will allow your beer to age,clear and carbonate correctly.

The instant carbonation method works fine but you need experience and understanding of what you are doing.


----------



## Ross

Few guys kegging their first beer are going to wait a week to drink it.

If you are not comfortable with rapid carbonation & you are desperate to try your first beer - Simply roll back & forth at 300kpa for 30 seconds & disconnect from the gas. Then after waiting 5/10 minutes for the head to dissipate, release the pressure & reset the gas to 70kpa & continue to shake/roll until you can't hear any more bubbles being released into solution. 
This will take a little longer, but will make over carbing your 1st beer impossible.

Cheers Ross


----------



## KGB

tbone said:


> If I made a brew, but wasn't going to tap it for a few weeks/months am i best off leaving it flat and only carbonating a few days before intend to drink it?
> 
> by the way great thread, so informative and easy to follow, thanks guys
> 
> t-bone



Thats my understanding, and what I've done with a Coopers PA thats been sitting in the fridge for a few weeks now. Make sure you purge the head space of the keg with CO2 though.


----------



## rockin49

rockin49 said:


> It's been about 6 or so hours since kegging. I have released gas (through release valve) a few times since - it appears that the head has reduced about 10-15%.. beer is still flat. Have now left the release valve up and will check it in a day.
> 
> I assume a day or two of leaving release valve up will make the beer completely flat and I need to restart the gassing process again? Or will it flatten the beer to a 'drinkable' level?
> 
> I have a Porter ready for kegging and want to practise on this one first
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan



I ended up leaving the release valve open for 24hrs. The carbonation level had almost evened out. Left at pouring pressure for a couple more days then spot on.


----------



## reveler

About to Keg my first brew, after doing this method and putting back at serving pressure at about 100kpi do I then just leave it at that all the time, or do I turn the gas bottle off after each session?


----------



## reVoxAHB

Reveler said:


> About to Keg my first brew, after doing this method and putting back at serving pressure at about 100kpi do I then just leave it at that all the time, or do I turn the gas bottle off after each session?



I leave mine at serving pressure all the time, as I pretty much drink all the time.. can't think of a nicer way to put that one.. it's not a bad idea if you're getting started into kegging, etc. (and have doubts/concerns with procedure and your system) to leave the pressure at 100kpa (for example) in the reg but turn it off at the bottle overnight or between sessions, as you put it.

A certain amount of Co2 will dissolve into the beer until saturated, even after force-carbonation so don't be immediately alarmed if you wake to find your kpa in reg has dropped from 100 to say 80 overnight *and this would be after turning off at bottle. It doesn't necessarily mean you have a leak. I find my beers balance, carbonation wise, a good 3-7 days after force-carb, but certainly drinkable day 1.

Lots and lots of variables so if in doubt, just turn it off at bottle between sessions.

reVox

edit at: *


----------



## reveler

I gave it a shot and under carbed it. I was a bit nervous of overcarbing so now I'll just connect it up at 100kpi and leave it for a few days.


----------



## turto77

Got my keg setup together last night and used this method, beer came out a touch under carbed, but i am sure i will get it perfected over time, thanks guys.


----------



## KGB

IMO its probably easier to over carb the first time and then release some gas out of it - decreasing carbonation gradually by shaking and purging the keg a little bit at a time is much easier and faster than trying to increase carbonation a little bit at a time.
Once you get your method down pat you will be able to do it in your sleep almost. Make sure you use a stopwatch and time how long you are shaking etc.


----------



## phil4124

Well, been reading intently over this thread. Lots of good info but all leads to more questions for one who has not kegged before now. (Bloody newbies..........)

First and foremost, what is the indication of over carbonising? I understand a glass full on foam is a give away, but won't an incorrect dispensing pressure do the same? 

I have just carbonised my first keg by setting 32psi on my refridgerated keg for 3 days. I have dumped this pressure and set approx 10psi for pouring. I didn't force it by shaking as I wanted to try this method first. As mentioned, one glass of foam. I have reduced pressure to 4 psi to try and see if that makes a difference, which is marginal. I managed to get a schooner (or two.....or three!) from it and have found that by no means is it flat but I wouldn't mind a touch more carbonation. (Taste great after three days! This from someone who has brewed into bottles for 15 odd years!!)
Do I try and carbonise more or have I got too much already and the 'bubbles' in my beer will never get any 'bigger'??

Secondly, when force carbonating using the Ross method, after shaking the keg for 50-60 odd seconds and then turning the reg off, is there any chance that I will get beer forced back through the lines to my reg when I keep shaking? Obviously a non-return valve would solve that but....... I was going to try by lying keg on side and gasing through gas in port.

I have no doubt that practise will make perfect and over time I will master this, but I do appreciate any advice....  

Phil.


----------



## SJW

I can't understand how this method can be fcuked up if u follow steps 5 and 6 at least....

Step 5 After checking that the gas line is clear of any fragile objects, start rocking the keg back and forth for about 50 seconds. You can see from the video that only gentle rocking is required. You will hear gas bubbling into the keg as you rock it and the pressure on the regulator should stay at around 300kPa. 

Step 6 Turn the gas off at the regulator and then continue rocking the keg. You will notice the gas pressure on the regulator start to drop quite quickly. The video shows the rough speed that the pressure drops back. This should stop at around about 140-160kPa. If the pressure drop stops above 160kPa you may have overgassed the beer by rocking for longer than 50 seconds. If it falls below 140kPa, the beer is not gassed enough and you will need to repeat steps 4-6 again but for 10-15 seconds only for step 4. 

When I did it I only went for 40 seconds as I was not sure how it would work but it worked out fine. I was able to vent after 5mins and was drinking a great carbonated beer within 10.
Anyway this is not helping you. 2 things u can do.
1- Take the keg out of the fridge and let warm up overnight and vent off in the morning.

2- Gently shake the keg and vent, but if u have a nice Pilsner in the keg and dont want to stir up the yeast go with option 1.
Once fully vented leave overnight to chill and vent again prior to setting to serve pressure. No more than 100 Kpa. I set my serve pressure at 100 kpa then turn off the gas untill it stops pouring, then hit it with the gas again. With 2 kegs I get 6 beers at a time easy.

Steve


----------



## sah

Phil4124 said:


> Well, been reading intently over this thread. Lots of good info but all leads to more questions for one who has not kegged before now. (Bloody newbies..........)
> 
> First and foremost, what is the indication of over carbonising? I understand a glass full on foam is a give away, but won't an incorrect dispensing pressure do the same?
> 
> I have just carbonised my first keg by setting 32psi on my refridgerated keg for 3 days. I have dumped this pressure and set approx 10psi for pouring. I didn't force it by shaking as I wanted to try this method first. As mentioned, one glass of foam. I have reduced pressure to 4 psi to try and see if that makes a difference, which is marginal. I managed to get a schooner (or two.....or three!) from it and have found that by no means is it flat but I wouldn't mind a touch more carbonation. (Taste great after three days! This from someone who has brewed into bottles for 15 odd years!!)
> Do I try and carbonise more or have I got too much already and the 'bubbles' in my beer will never get any 'bigger'??
> 
> Secondly, when force carbonating using the Ross method, after shaking the keg for 50-60 odd seconds and then turning the reg off, is there any chance that I will get beer forced back through the lines to my reg when I keep shaking? Obviously a non-return valve would solve that but....... I was going to try by lying keg on side and gasing through gas in port.
> 
> I have no doubt that practise will make perfect and over time I will master this, but I do appreciate any advice....
> 
> Phil.



Hi Phil,

You will only risk moving beer into your gas line if the pressure in the keg is relatively higher than the pressure in your gas line. So following this method, as long as your gas line isn't leaking it will have at least the same pressure as the keg and the beer will stay in the keg.

Other possibilities for the foam are a warm gun or tap or an unbalanced setup.

Keep at it mate. You'll sort it out soon enough.

regards,
Scott


----------



## Uncle Fester

Phil4124 said:


> Well, been reading intently over this thread. Lots of good info but all leads to more questions for one who has not kegged before now. (Bloody newbies..........)
> 
> First and foremost, what is the indication of over carbonising? I understand a glass full on foam is a give away, but won't an incorrect dispensing pressure do the same?
> 
> I have just carbonised my first keg by setting 32psi on my refridgerated keg for 3 days. I have dumped this pressure and set approx 10psi for pouring. I didn't force it by shaking as I wanted to try this method first. As mentioned, one glass of foam. I have reduced pressure to 4 psi to try and see if that makes a difference, which is marginal. I managed to get a schooner (or two.....or three!) from it and have found that by no means is it flat but I wouldn't mind a touch more carbonation. (Taste great after three days! This from someone who has brewed into bottles for 15 odd years!!)
> Do I try and carbonise more or have I got too much already and the 'bubbles' in my beer will never get any 'bigger'??
> 
> Secondly, when force carbonating using the Ross method, after shaking the keg for 50-60 odd seconds and then turning the reg off, is there any chance that I will get beer forced back through the lines to my reg when I keep shaking? Obviously a non-return valve would solve that but....... I was going to try by lying keg on side and gasing through gas in port.
> 
> I have no doubt that practise will make perfect and over time I will master this, but I do appreciate any advice....
> 
> Phil.



Phil,

You have not described your tap setup. You need various lengths of beer line to drop different pressures. A search for "balanced systems" will shed more light.

If you have a beer tap attached directly to your keg, then 4psi is still way too much and yout keg will resemble a fire extinguisher. About 1psi at the tap is what I use - basically just enough to push the beer out of the tap.

If you have a length of line from the keg to the tap then you need to kow the internal diameter of the line and the length. A simple calculation will determine the optimal keg pressure for your length of line.

There are heaps of web pages out there that detail this. 

If you need more info, or the process described better, PM me.


Cheers,

Festa.


----------



## phil4124

SAH said:


> Hi Phil,
> 
> You will only risk moving beer into your gas line if the pressure in the keg is relatively higher than the pressure in your gas line. So following this method, as long as your gas line isn't leaking it will have at least the same pressure as the keg and the beer will stay in the keg.
> 
> Other possibilities for the foam are a warm gun or tap or an unbalanced setup.
> 
> Keep at it mate. You'll sort it out soon enough.
> 
> regards,
> Scott



Thanks Scott. In my head i figured that when the reg is turned off, and if shaking the keg raises the presure (ie like shaking a soft drink can), it will feed back up the lines. As you explained though, unless I have a gas leak, there is no way it will.

Got on to a good thread on here a little later last night which spelt out the whole "balancing" issue. I may have a few more things to try now. Figured that with my setup I should have a pouring pressure just over 12 psi. And it would appear that my lines are about twice as long as they should be!

I have a tap mounted through the door of my fridge at 600mm above the centre of my keg. I am using 3/16 plastic lines and have around 2 - 2.5 mtrs of liquid out line to the tap. The tap is a standard old twist tap. What I did notice is that I am getting a lot of air in the beer line from the keg when I let is sit for more than 3-4 minutes. Always makes a mess when I first poor! 

I think I am off to shorten some lines!

Thanks guys for all your input. It is appreciated.

Phil.


----------



## jlm

While we're all on the topic, after the 50s shaking then turning off the reg, if you have a valve to stop getting beer in the reg will it show the drop in pressure? Have done the Ross method a couple of times now, and havn't had the needle drop at all. Beer is generally a touch under carbed, I'm guessing due to me stopping the rocking too early. Nothing a day or two at serving pressure won't fix though.


----------



## oldbugman

the check valve will maintain pressure between it and the regulator. so no, the pressure wont drop.


----------



## jlm

Suspected as much, but wasn't quite sure. Will keep on shaking for slightly longer each time 'til I've got it right. Beer on tap at home is a wonderful thing!


----------



## Ross

OldBugman said:


> the check valve will maintain pressure between it and the regulator. so no, the pressure wont drop.



Not quite correct - as the beer absorbs the CO2, the head pressure drops & the regulator should read it perfectly. the check valve stops backflow, which is not happening in this situation.

Cheers ross


----------



## oldbugman

oh yeah... should stop answering questions when drinking..was thinking along the line of the reg wont show the pressure in the keg when venting from the regulator


----------



## phil4124

For anyone intersted...............

I did shorten my lines to 1.2m after reading the thread about balancing your system..............but made no difference.

I did turn off the CO2 and vented the keg for 12 hours. Put 10 psi back and poured the perfect beer!! Obviously I had over carbonated. 

As a newbie to kegging but a veteran of brewing of 15 years :blink: my main problem was wasting the precious drop while trying to get the system right. All new gear and no idea - makes for a headache to get it right. (As does the last 8 schooners..) As we all know we will eventually get it right, but makes for a very frustrating time.

The method of carbonating I use of 32psi for 72 hrs with a cold keg (without shaking) is obviously too much. Next keg going into the fridge this week will be gased for only 48 and we will see how that goes....


----------



## QldKev

If your ok to wait a few days; to gas just put it in the serving fridge and set the gas on serving pressure (14psi) and leave it for a few days. Your beer will be clearer, and perfect gassing.

QldKev


----------



## matti

I've read the thread through about thrice and none the wiser.
There are a few Q's regarding carbonation level I like to pose to the more knowledgeable keggers.

On heavier beers I tend to bulkprime with 6g/L, about 7-8g/L for the medium carbed beers and 9-10 for higher carbonation beer.

What serving pressure would you use for an ESB, APA or lager?

I have been looking for a guide as I am about to start kegging soonish.


----------



## Ross

Hi Matti,

I serve my ales at 60/70kpa & lagers/wheats at 110/120kpa.

Cheers Ross


----------



## matti

Cheers Ross.


----------



## drsmurto

I read this thread a few times before getting my kegs and it only hit me last night when i noticed the instructions scrawled onto a post it note on top of the keg fridge.

All this time i have been turning the pressure off at the reg after reaching 45psi and then rocking it wondering why the pressure drops so quickly and back to 0 so i just repeated this process 3-4 times. 

I also use the gas in line rather than swapping and dont roll the keg as my hoses aren't long enough.

Enlightened now.


----------



## matti

Almost emptied my 1st keg of crappy beer.
I force carbed it last w/end. I left the serving pressure at 90 kPa.
I turn the gas off at night as then pour the 1st without gas on and then put the gas on again until I go to bed.

This arvo I poured my 1st glass at the pressure on 70kPa then put the gas on and the regulator got to 130kPa.

The keg can't have more then 7-8 litres left.
I turned the gas off. and my next glass was slightly heady lol.

I swear I haven't touched the regulator since.

What is the best practice for you guys,
I know every system different just need a guide 
cheers
Matti


----------



## pokolbinguy

matti said:


> Almost emptied my 1st keg of crappy beer.
> I force carbed it last w/end. I left the serving pressure at 90 kPa.
> I turn the gas off at night as then pour the 1st without gas on and then put the gas on again until I go to bed.
> 
> This arvo I poured my 1st glass at the pressure on 70kPa then put the gas on and the regulator got to 130kPa.
> 
> The keg can't have more then 7-8 litres left.
> I turned the gas off. and my next glass was slightly heady lol.
> 
> I swear I haven't touched the regulator since.
> 
> What is the best practice for you guys,
> I know every system different just need a guide
> cheers
> Matti




I don't know about anyone else buy I'm a little lost....you force carbed and you say your serving pressure is 90 Kpa? Why did you put it up to 130??? that would be why your got more head. 

I have only naturally carbed my beer but have forced carbed softdrinks. Anyway I carbonate them (either way) and serve at 18 psi (Approx 130kPa). From then on I dont touch my reg unless it has crept down for some reason. Haven't had any problems for a long while doing this.

Pok


----------



## lagers44

After years of dispensing at 1-2psi from 500mm of hose i bit the bullet & investigated a balanced system , and how easy life has become.
I can carbonate ate 300kpa for 24hrs , vent the pressue then adjust to dispensing pressure of 10psi or I can just leave at 10psi for few days if i'm lazy. It works a treat , I can even dispense at 8psi for ales ( jut pours slower ).

I've now got 5 or 6 metres ( pre cut roll from Bunnings ) of 4mm ID tubing coiled in the fridge & all's apples.

Thanks for those who took the time to dispense with the information.  

Lagers


----------



## Sparky

Interesting reading and lagers44 has some good advice. I've run a balanced system for a few years now. 12-13 psi (just under 100kPa). The reg is left as is and newly filled kegs are connected and left for a week or there abouts at dispensing pressure and temperature. No shaking and increase in pressure etc. Haven't had a baddie yet. The lines are approx 1.5 - 1.8 metres after considering the font taps (approx 450mm above the keg outlets) and the lengths along with the internal diameter of the line. Temperature also needs consideration.

All works good for me. IMHO Patience is the key. If you can wait for your handiwork to ferment, take another week out and wait for it to carbonate.

Cheers

WayneO


----------



## stevenk

hey sparky after you force carb at 100kpa for a week and all is good do you turn your CO2 off or do you just keep it sitting at serving pressure how ever much kpa that is you like to use.

cheers.


----------



## Sparky

stevenk said:


> hey sparky after you force carb at 100kpa for a week and all is good do you turn your CO2 off or do you just keep it sitting at serving pressure how ever much kpa that is you like to use.
> 
> cheers.



Hi stevenk, I leave the CO2 on the system at 100kPa (closer to 90kPa) all the time and serve at that pressure too. Run 3 kegs on tap and up to 5 conditioning/sitting with gas on.

Cheers


----------



## SJW

I don't know if Screwy has posted on this topic yet but I do pretty much what he does. I put the empty keg in the freezer (to save the old back) and fill from primary straight to keg with gelatine. Hit with 300 or 350 kpa, vent, and leave for 12 hours and turn off the gas and within the next 12 hours she drops down to serve pressue and away we go. If its still a bit under done I just wake anther 350kpa in and turn off again. Don't like the idea of rolling kegs around and could not be bothered gassing through the beer post.

Steve


----------



## Mark_blower

HELP!!!!!!!!

I followed the instructions on the first page and having some issues. I set up my kegs last week (2 cornies with about 150cm of 6mm tube on each to the taps). 

My problem is when I pour from the tap I get about 90% head. I obviously thought that I had over carbonated but the actual beer is almost flat.

I have tried decreasing my serving pressure right down to 50 kPa with only a slight improvement.

I am hoping to have these ready for the AFL grand final so any help would be really really appreciated.



Cheers

Mark


----------



## razz

G'day Mark. You will need a lot more than 1.5 mtrs of 6 mm tube for a good pour. I run 5 mm tube at 3.3 mtrs for a balanced system of 100kpa.


----------



## Mark_blower

razz said:


> G'day Mark. You will need a lot more than 1.5 mtrs of 6 mm tube for a good pour. I run 5 mm tube at 3.3 mtrs for a balanced system of 100kpa.




Cheers Razz, Here I thought cutting it shorter was making things easier for me. I will get some longer tube tomorrow

Any other tips


----------



## razz

There is a ready reckoner on here somewhere. It will tell you what length beer line and diametre for a given pressure and temp. it might be in one of the Wiki's. I think you will need a minimum of 4.5 mtrs in 6mm beer line.


----------



## KHB

I was thinking of trying the idea of using a beer in to gas up my only thing is how do you stop beer returning up the line once you turn the gas off??


----------



## gap

KHB said:


> I was thinking of trying the idea of using a beer in to gas up my only thing is how do you stop beer returning up the line once you turn the gas off??


 

Maybe remove the disconnect before you shut off the gas?


----------



## KHB

gap said:


> Maybe remove the disconnect before you shut off the gas?




Nah they say they leave it connected and rock to let pressure on gauge drop


----------



## quantocks

just used this method, shook for 50 seconds. realised I wasn't rocking it right, or did it too hard and there was little pressure when i hit the pressure relief valve. thought I did it wrong, so released all pressure and tried again, this time rocking better and slower. bubbles stopped? turned off gas bottle but not reg and beer foam shot up the line, shit I thought I had stuffed the reg but got to it just in time, no beer in there thank christ.

vented and left for 20 minutes, still overcarbed it but better and quicker than my last effort. As soon as I pour a glass though, the bubbles in my Headmaster energy glass are absolutely whirlwinding around in my glass, after about 2 minutes the bubbles settle down and go to normal.

tad overcarbed, but at least I have something to drink tonight that's nice and cold, I'll vent it in the morning once and I should be sweet. so cheers al


----------



## raven19

Just used this method for the first time tonight also.
Very helpful indeed, with the Celli taps its all nice and easy.
Thanks Al & Ross for this method.
Cheers!


----------



## raven19

Rehashing an old thread here, keen to hear thoughts on the following "semi forced" carbonation method my mate uses:

1. Beer into keg from fermentor
2. Increases pressure on regulator to 150 - 200 kPa and leaves for 48 hours (use gas in post still)
3. After 48 hours, drop back to serving pressure (50kPa on his system)
4. Burp keg to reduce headspace pressure
5. Drink!

I am giving this a go with my 3rd keg of beer to see how it goes. Will report back after Saturday...


----------



## Cocko

I have kegged about 6 batches now all force carbed... Great method and when you understand and get it nailed it is great to have carbed beer within an hour or so...

Report:
Last batch [double] went into to 2 kegs, 19L, and were left in keg fridge for 3 weeks - Holidays! NB: Always leave a double batch ageing if you are of on leave!! anyway.... 

BUT in my so far experience I have kegged and still bottled a dozen or so beers out of each batch. The forced carbed beer out the keg has had a similar underlying flavour, even after 3 weeks in keg, through it for the first 2 weeks or so but if I crack a stubbie of the same brew it does not have this taste and is much more what I planned the brew to taste like.... So if I force carb does it need to age still for the flavours to really develop and blend?

So what I am getting at is: Does force carbing flavour the beer? 

Hmm...

Cocko.


----------



## KHB

Ive got a new regulator coming and was thinking of putting a t piece with a line coming off with a liquid dissconnect on it and a tap after the t piece. As i havnt tried this method of gassing through the outpost. What stops beer flowing pack in line once you turn the gas off at the bottle??I have a non return valve built in on the new reg but just want to be sure before i try it.

Cheers KHB


----------



## KHB

KHB said:


> Ive got a new regulator coming and was thinking of putting a t piece with a line coming off with a liquid dissconnect on it and a tap after the t piece. As i havnt tried this method of gassing through the outpost. What stops beer flowing pack in line once you turn the gas off at the bottle??I have a non return valve built in on the new reg but just want to be sure before i try it.
> 
> Cheers KHB




BUMP!!!


----------



## samhighley

KHB said:


> I have a non return valve built in on the new reg but just want to be sure before i try it.



The non-return valve will stop the liquid flowing back into the regulator. That is its purpose.

Sam


----------



## bradsbrew

Tried this method twice now good results the first time, slightly overcarbed but settled ok, better results the second time nice carbonation and nice head. But with this keg after I pour the beer the beer starts to foam in the line and heads back to the keg with th result being that about 200mm before the tap and 200mm after the disconnect is empty which results in the next pour being slow and a bit foamy in places but I still get a nicely poured beer. I only use a bronco and using a soda stream cylinder which I am thinking is almost empty, would the cylinder being almost empty cause this??

Cheers Brad


----------



## KHB

Hi i just bought a new regultor an ebay and teh pressure realese vale kicks in at 300pka. :angry: I am going to try carbing at 250kpa for 55 seconds instead of the usual 45 i do. Hopefully it works ok.


KHB


----------



## NeilArge

KHB said:


> Hi i just bought a new regultor an ebay and teh pressure realese vale kicks in at 300pka. :angry: I am going to try carbing at 250kpa for 55 seconds instead of the usual 45 i do. Hopefully it works ok.
> 
> 
> KHB


I've been trying to force carb my first keg with a sodastream bottle using the Ross method but I have been struggling to get a beer out of the thing. It barely trickles out and is flat. I've upped the pressure to 100kpa and left it like that for days but still not much change - flat beer. The dorothy dixer is: what am I doing wrong?

Ta in advance,

ToG (aka Neil)


----------



## cliffo

Have you checked for leaks?


----------



## Morrie0069

Is the sodastream bottle fully screwed into the reg adaptor? I had a new type bottle a month or so ago, and it needed an extra couple of mm's of turn to get the pin depressed on the bottle. 

Can you get gas out of bottle without it being connected to the keg?

If you have a non return valve, is it the right way round?

Could there be a blockage on the keg out tube?

OT - As I don't have a large gas bottle, I bulk prime my keg and let it carb up like you do in the bottles, which saves on gas. 1 day I'll grab a MKOL cylinder!


----------



## NeilArge

cliffo said:


> Have you checked for leaks?



No :huh: . I guess some soapy water solution brushed on to all joins would be the go?

Cheers

ToG


----------



## NeilArge

Morrie0069 said:


> Is the sodastream bottle fully screwed into the reg adaptor? I had a new type bottle a month or so ago, and it needed an extra couple of mm's of turn to get the pin depressed on the bottle.
> 
> Can you get gas out of bottle without it being connected to the keg?
> 
> If you have a non return valve, is it the right way round?
> 
> Could there be a blockage on the keg out tube?
> 
> OT - As I don't have a large gas bottle, I bulk prime my keg and let it carb up like you do in the bottles, which saves on gas. 1 day I'll grab a MKOL cylinder!



Thanks for the response. Gas is definitely getting into the beer as it is being into the line and does pour. I haven't tried disconnecting the gas line and turning the reg. on to get gas out - might try that tonight. I'll check the direction of the non-return valve also. There doesn't appear to be a blockage in the beer out line/post but the main thing is that the beer is flat anyway. But thanks for the action-prompting questions - I'll check this out tonight.

Best

ToG


----------



## SpillsMostOfIt

Morrie0069 said:


> Is the sodastream bottle fully screwed into the reg adaptor? I had a new type bottle a month or so ago, and it needed an extra couple of mm's of turn to get the pin depressed on the bottle.



On a hot day a while ago, I could not screw the cylinder into the adapter enough. I put the bottle into the fridge for a while and voila! everything was okay.

A reminder for young players in warm environments that physics is (usually) your friend...


----------



## moonshadow

Joel said:


> Why can't you connect the gas disconnect up to the liquid side of the keg? From a quick look at my disconnects they look identical to each other except for the colour. I though the colours were just to keep them from getting mixed up?



Good question...they have different connections internally. Ive had a gas disconnect stuck on a Liquid out post before and swore quite a bit when I found it would not come off!!! 

I just tip my keg upside down with the gas connections on its gas post and gently rock back and forth without bumping the disconnect on the ground. Works a treat as the gas is still travelling up through the beer via the little gas tube- thus more efficient- but no rolling and sweating like a nanny-goat. 

I do tend to wait 24hrs after force-carbonating with a head of 300kpa in the keg before attempting to pour though. All that motion can make for too much froth and a flat body if 'burped' and poured too early. As shown in vid.

If anyones in Brissy on the 7th March come to my kegging & filtering demo. It'll clear up alot of Q's for you (I hope) Ive got some all grain on for tasting, yum yum. See the retail section under kegs kegs kegs.


----------



## brettprevans

i was playing with force carbing my kegs last night...

now with kegs at 300psi (or a bit more) i didnt go near the releif valve, but i had made the mistake of connecting the gas line before I had turned the ghas on..so beer in the gas line. no worries i think, just take of the gas disconnect and and a qquick depression on the disconnect to let the beer dribble out of the gas line.....after copping a face full of beer at 300psi I realise I forgot to turn the gas off and that having my finger in the disconnect just made the spray even worse. after a bit more cursing and playing I get all my gas/pressures right. thank christ i have cellis and dont have to balance this bastard!

hmmm kegged beer. willl be read for the weekend. the bonus is that its my 2nd daughters 1st birthday. a special day indeed. birthday and fist kegged beer.


edit: i also had some cursing with the multiple bumping of the tap and beer pissing out the taps. yes it took me 3 times before i thought, maybe i should disconnect the beer line. not a good night.


----------



## brettprevans

more dumb arse dramas for me.

trying to work out why beer is coming up the gas line. I speak with Ross (ill omit the part about me needing to get a non return valve)

paraphrased...
Ross: One of the problems with force carbing kegs is that you can over carb them. that sounds like your problem. 
Me: its only been 2 days @ ~120psi! how the hell did I manage that?
R: hmmm, nah it cant be that. hmmmm. How far did you fill the keg up? cause if the beer is above gas inlet tube.....
Me: ohh crap! thats where my extra few litres of brew went that I couldnt account for. what a dumb arse i am!

ok so tip for young players. dont over fill your kegs and force carb. 

The only up side on this is that i now have to go home and get the beer level down. means i'll just have to force myself to drink a few pints!


----------



## raven19

citymorgue2 said:


> ok so tip for young players. dont over fill your kegs and force carb.
> 
> The only up side on this is that i now have to go home and get the beer level down. means i'll just have to force myself to drink a few pints!



That is a tough gig! :icon_cheers: 

I tend to fill to about the weld line (about 30mm from the top).


----------



## brettprevans

raven19 said:


> I tend to fill to about the weld line (about 30mm from the top).


smart arse!  thats exactly what ross said.


----------



## Fourstar

citymorgue2 said:


> R: hmmm, nah it cant be that. hmmmm. How far did you fill the keg up? cause if the beer is above gas inlet tube.....
> Me: ohh crap! thats where my extra few litres of brew went that I couldnt account for. what a dumb arse i am!




My question for you CM2 is how the hell did you manage to get the Corny lid back inside the keg and sealed again without scooping beer onto the top of the lid and around the seal?!?!

Thats the 1 thing im alwyas so cautious of when kegging, any seal points on the keg must remain clean and beer free at all times whilst filling a keg. I dont want any nasties shawshanking their way in thru a pressure relief valve, poppet or keg lid seal. :icon_cheers: 

I never knew Brett and Lacto looked like Morgan Freeman and Tim Robbins!! :lol:


----------



## brettprevans

well it wasnt that full, bu it was pretty full. the fact that when i lifted the keg over the chesty and put it down, beer got around the seal and came out from under the lid, should have been a tip off for me. but no. i was too interested in making the keg do what i decided it should do rather than listening to it tell me what it was capable of doing. 

all good. just more experiance and lovely stories to share with others. at least it wasnt a face full of beer again (see my above post #128).

Edit: I recon brett would look like freeman.


----------



## Fourstar

citymorgue2 said:


> all good. just more experiance and lovely stories to share with others. at least it wasnt a face full of beer again (see my above post #128).
> Edit: I recon brett would look like freeman.



Dont worry mate, i still havn't learnt my lesson using bronco taps. After every keg empties give them a sodium percarbonate wash out and quick flush with iodophor when prepping my keg. I usually leave the faucet open to dry out. When im ready to tap the keg i have twice forgotten to close the tap on the bronco. 1st one shot all over my chest, a nice hoppy APA and the scond was a porter..... yep all over the wall.  


The aftermath of the porter was horrendous.. I was still cleaning some marks up from it yesterday and it happened in December!


----------



## mr_tyreman

I have written and re-written this post so many times....

I'd really like to know what steps seem to be the best for carbing my particular beer...

its an AG DrSmurtos Golden ale (My first AG ever)

Its been NC'd overnight, and fermented in a single fermentor for 2 weeks

Now i want to Keg... I was planning on filling up the keg from the bottom up with a pipe to prevent foaming...

Then force carbing it up, letting it finish fermenting for a week...

then chill for 2 days and consume


i have so many questions but i hope this is a good start


----------



## als_world

mr_tyreman said:


> I have written and re-written this post so many times....
> 
> I'd really like to know what steps seem to be the best for carbing my particular beer...
> 
> its an AG DrSmurtos Golden ale (My first AG ever)
> 
> Its been NC'd overnight, and fermented in a single fermentor for 2 weeks
> 
> Now i want to Keg... I was planning on filling up the keg from the bottom up with a pipe to prevent foaming...
> 
> Then force carbing it up, letting it finish fermenting for a week...
> 
> then chill for 2 days and consume
> 
> 
> i have so many questions but i hope this is a good start




That's a good idea about filling the keg from the bottom up. They are very hard to fill from the top down  

You have the rough idea, but slightly out of order - The fermentation should be finished by 2 weeks. Fill up the keg, chill, then carb, then consume. That's it.


----------



## NeilArge

G'day all

Sorry for the stupid question, but do you have to make any adjustments to your beer tap before using it. I'm using a stainless gun. I've had a CSA in a corny keg on gas for the last 5-6 days carbing up and I thought I'd try it tonight. I get a nice creamy head but no beading in the glass. What appears to be the problem here?

Any advice gratefully accepted!

Cheers

ToG


----------



## krusty_oz

raven19 said:


> Rehashing an old thread here, keen to hear thoughts on the following "semi forced" carbonation method my mate uses:
> 
> 1. Beer into keg from fermentor
> 2. Increases pressure on regulator to 150 - 200 kPa and leaves for 48 hours (use gas in post still)
> 3. After 48 hours, drop back to serving pressure (50kPa on his system)
> 4. Burp keg to reduce headspace pressure
> 5. Drink!
> 
> I am giving this a go with my 3rd keg of beer to see how it goes. Will report back after Saturday...



I did it that way on my first keg last week, left the gas on at 150kpa for a couple days. Dropped to 10psi and connected up Andale pluto gun with 3m of 4mm hose (cursed putting it on the disconnect - had to drill out some hose) and poured a near perfect beer (about 1cm too much head due to the air in the hose, second beer was perfect).


----------



## Cocko

Rather than starting a new thread.... I will post here.


I was lucky enough to score myself one of the 'rare' 45L kegs with the cornie style post and lids today on evil bay!

Anyway, I have my 'Ross' method down pat on a 19L but I was just thinking about force carbing this big boy up!

Would I just rock for twice as long? I figure it has to absorb twice the amount of C02 so that sorta makes sense or is there something I am not realising here? :unsure: 

Any thought appreciated.
 :icon_cheers:

These:

View attachment 29399


----------



## Fourstar

Cocko said:


> Would I just rock for twice as long? I figure it has to absorb twice the amount of C02 so that sorta makes sense or is there something I am not realising here?



Gold! sure you didnt steal that from daves shop? 

I dont follow ross method. i crank my reg up, balls to the wall and shake the arse out of it, just cos it doesnt take as long and then back it off. You could always just push a crapload more pressure into it to speed it up. either way, the ross method will work. I still do the whole "turn off the tap and watch the reg drop pressure until equilisation." Just keep doing that i suppose.


----------



## Cocko

Fourstar said:


> Gold! sure you didnt steal that from daves shop?
> 
> I dont follow ross method. i crank my reg up, balls to the wall and shake the arse out of it, just cos it doesnt take as long and then back it off. You could always just push a crapload more pressure into it to speed it up. either way, the ross method will work. I still do the whole "turn off the tap and watch the reg drop pressure until equilisation." Just keep doing that i suppose.



No, not from Dave although I did offer him more for one of his than I paid!! B) 

Yeah, I figured if I drop the pressure by shaking back to where I usually do cant be to far wrong?

Cheers for your thoughts mate, appreciated! :icon_cheers:


----------



## chappo1970

Bejeebus Cocko your going all super size me! First the 100lt MT now 45lt kegs. Next ya will be doing 5000lt brews?

Mate I would do as said and she how she blows, it's only a couple of burps and trial and error to get it right, no?

I'm gunna have to put you on my must see list and see if we can dent that sucker one evening?

Cheers

Chappo


----------



## Cocko

HAHA!

Yeah mate, more beer = same amount of work is my current mantra! B) 

Used to take me 4 hours to do a 25L BIAB - now takes me 5-6 hours to pull out 88 odd litres... Takes me 20-40 minutes to keg 20 L, so i assume it will take me 20-40 minutes to keg 45L...

Yep, I am sure I will iron it out... looks like I will have to suck it and see, as the priest said  as the old saying goes...

The challenge is set mate, name the date and a denting we shall go!! :icon_chickcheers: 

Now, gotta run and win that ebay bid on the milk tanker.... new kettle! :lol: 

Thanks for your tips chaps!


----------



## whitegoose

als_world said:


> Step 3 - Connect a liquid disconnect (black) to your gas line. Attach this liquid disconnect to the "out" post of the keg. This will allow you to inject the gas into the keg without having to roll or invert it. I recommend using MFL disconnects to make this step easier. It's a good idea to give the post a quick spray with your favourite no-rinse sanitiser as well beforehand.


Am I thinking about this wrong or is step three on the first page incorrect? Shouldn't it be telling me to put the gas disconnect on the beer out post? Not sure what the beer out line has to do with carbonating?


----------



## buttersd70

this means put a _liquid _disconnect onto your _gas _line, and attach it to your _liquid out_ post, so that the gas is blowing down through the dip tube....it says to use the liquid disconnect, cos the posts, whilst they look the same, are actually slightly different sizes. Use a gas disconnect, and you'll have fun and joy getting it off again.


----------



## whitegoose

buttersd70 said:


> this means put a _liquid _disconnect onto your _gas _line, and attach it to your _liquid out_ post, so that the gas is blowing down through the dip tube....it says to use the liquid disconnect, cos the posts, whilst they look the same, are actually slightly different sizes. Use a gas disconnect, and you'll have fun and joy getting it off again.



right, gotcha - it never occurred to me to actually have my gas line attached to a liquid disconnect - I think of the gas line and the gas disconnect as the same thing!


----------



## funkym

Hi I posted this and then realised that I could have added it in this section.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=36167

Basically my way to gas a 19lt post mix keg, quick. No pre-chilling, no rocking, no singing it a lullaby. 

Cheers Big ears

Funkym


----------



## NeilArge

funkym said:


> Hi I posted this and then realised that I could have added it in this section.
> 
> http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=36167
> 
> Basically my way to gas a 19lt post mix keg, quick. No pre-chilling, no rocking, no singing it a lullaby.
> 
> Cheers Big ears
> 
> Funkym



Hey all

I've got my keg of dopplesticke carbed up nicely now after setting the reg to serving pressure and keeping the keg at 5C. If I now disconnect the gas from that keg will the CO2 stay in solution and the beer continue to pour well? Just seeing if I can save on gas (using a sodastream bottle) for the next keg.

Cheers

ToG


----------



## zoidbergmerc

I did this last night, worked a treat!


----------



## tgarland

I have been using 70 Kpa for about 2 years now. Sometimes I find my beers a little sweet / rich. I see below that 100Kpa is used. Am I under carbonating for APA's and Australian type ales?


----------



## mxd

there is a spreadsheet about balancing. But it depends on your temp and beer style, for me 2degrees 2.5 to 2.6 carbonation and 75-80 kpa.


----------



## mxd

your beer and headspace will (over same time) equalise. So if you pour a couple of litres same co2 will move out of beer into headspace (I thin it takes a while) 


TunofGrunt said:


> Hey all
> 
> I've got my keg of dopplesticke carbed up nicely now after setting the reg to serving pressure and keeping the keg at 5C. If I now disconnect the gas from that keg will the CO2 stay in solution and the beer continue to pour well? Just seeing if I can save on gas (using a sodastream bottle) for the next keg.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> ToG


----------



## kwazzie

:drinks: hey......man ive been doin it the hard way gassing my 19Ltr party keg up to 300Kpa then charging it back up the next day and so on for a week then drinking but this method freakin blew my mind to be honest really pleased i got onto this site and look forward to learning plenty more cheers boys​


----------



## stux

I suspect the method documented in this thread should actually be called "Crash Carbonation"

Its basically a way to force carbonate a keg in a very minimal amount of time, me personally, i can't be arsed with all this physical shaking stuff 

The simple way to force carbonate is to set a keg to 300kpa for 30hrs when its been pre-chilled.

Tada.


I brew in a fridge with hot/cold controller, so about 6+ hours before I intend to keg I just set the controller to 4C or so, and knock the temp down.

The brew rapidly clears, and then I just gravity feed into a C02 purged keg. 

Bung the whole thing into the keg fridge and pop the gas on at 300kpa, burping the keg a couple of times before closing the door.

Turn off gas at regulator 30hrs later, release pressure, and turn gas back on at dispensing pressure (circa 80kpa for me)

If I've undercarbed I just set the pressure to 100kpa, and it'll carb up in a few days. 

If you over carb at 30hrs, just reduce the amount of time you force carb, say 26 or 28 hrs.

The key is to have a consistent keg temperature when you carb so you get consistent results. 

If you're waiting 30 hrs to cool the keg... you might as well wait 30 hrs to carbonate it instead, and cool the beer in the fermenter instead!


----------



## ///

Tried google and AHB for ages but cant find the spreadsheet I used to use at the brewery. I'm sure theres a spreadsheet from Wort Games which is in celcius vs pressure. Anyne got it on hand or the location??

Scotty


----------



## razz

/// said:


> Tried google and AHB for ages but cant find the spreadsheet I used to use at the brewery. I'm sure theres a spreadsheet from Wort Games which is in celcius vs pressure. Anyne got it on hand or the location??
> 
> Scotty


http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...;showarticle=24


----------



## np1962

/// said:


> Tried google and AHB for ages but cant find the spreadsheet I used to use at the brewery. I'm sure theres a spreadsheet from Wort Games which is in celcius vs pressure. Anyne got it on hand or the location??
> 
> Scotty


THREAD

Cheers
Nige


----------



## globe

Hi everyone 
i just kegged my first keg tonight after force carbonating 
the keg...but its got too much head....the beer that is!
what went wrong?

Please help?

Parko





NigeP62 said:


> THREAD
> 
> Cheers
> Nige


----------



## Cocko

Too much head and the beer is a itself little flat?


----------



## kelbygreen

its over carbed. did you barp the keg befor you poured some beer? how long did you leave the gas on and at what pressure???


----------



## globe

yeh i did i let some air out of the keg.
i left it like that for 5 mins before attmepting first pour.
the gas was normal between 50-75kpi and the other gauge was 1 bar.
is there any way to under carb the beer?
its a muntons scotch ale!!

Parko



kelbygreen said:


> its over carbed. did you barp the keg befor you poured some beer? how long did you leave the gas on and at what pressure???


----------



## kelbygreen

you mean psi??? what pressure did you force carb at? and how long did you force carb for?


----------



## globe

ok i attached all the ball locks....put the co2 at 200kpi for 5 mins
while rocking back n forth.then at 300kpi for 30seconds. then let
the keg sit in the fridge for 2 days then as ive written in the posts before 
thats what ive done today.
by the sounds its over carbed and cant be rescued.

I hope so though

Parko


----------



## michael_aussie

globalbrewing said:


> ok i attached all the ball locks....put the co2 at 200kpi for 5 mins
> while rocking back n forth.then at 300kpi for 30seconds. then let
> the keg sit in the fridge for 2 days then as ive written in the posts before
> thats what ive done today.
> by the sounds its over carbed and cant be rescued.
> 
> I hope so though
> 
> Parko


Never fear ... your beer will be able to be rescued.
If it its over carbonated, disconnect the gas from the keg.
Burp the keg (release all the the gas by pulling open the pressure relief valve).
Let the keg sit = hours or even a day.
Test again = try to pour another beer.
If still overcarbed repeat.


----------



## globe

awesome Michael aussie will try it right now....as im on holidays 
its all the more better to try and work out these things while I have
time.

Cheers to the audience of aussiehomebrewer.com

when my first proper pour from my keg happens...i cheers you

Parko


----------



## kelbygreen

to force carb search "ross method" I think its best to carb at serving pressure by connecting to the beer out and rocking for 15mins you cannot over carb it that way


----------



## Cocko

A good way I find to sort an over shook keg is:

Disconnect gas all together.

serve a heady beer.

Then keep pouring until the keg cannot serve anymore.

Tomorrow, repeat. 


2c.


----------



## globe

Does anyone have the issue of the beer pouring to quickly?
Because i get beer but its only 1/4 of the glass. If it happens
again tomorrow i'll take a photo and post.
If i try and half pour its all head......

Parko


----------



## Leigh

kelbygreen said:


> to force carb search "ross method" I think its best to carb at serving pressure by connecting to the beer out and rocking for 15mins you cannot over carb it that way



Just go back to Post 1 in this thread...


----------



## Amber Fluid

Even though this will still take a while but here is a quicker way to "de-gas" your keg:

Burb the keg
Shake shit out of it
Let it sit for around 10 minutes or so and repeat.


----------



## mattric

I'm in a little bit of a dilema. I put a brew of Kriek in last week which is due to be done fermenting on wednesday next week. The wife is having a get together on Sunday and is wanting me to put my beer on tap on my newly untested kegerator.

I've checked out all of the gear with water but I'm going to need to force carb the been to be ready in time.

Am I correct in understanding that the Ross method you connect the gas to the OUT connection on the keg? If this is the case then when pressure is applied wouldn't the beer fill into the reg? (gas applying pressure on top of the liquid)


----------



## fcmcg

mattric said:


> Am I correct in understanding that the Ross method you connect the gas to the OUT connection on the keg? If this is the case then when pressure is applied wouldn't the beer fill into the reg? (gas applying pressure on top of the liquid)


Mate...
What you do is have a "beer -out " ball valve connected to your gas line( disconect your tap)...provided your keg is cold ( in which case any gas you put into the keg , when you filled the keg from your fermenter, would have semi dissolved into the beer..so your keg is actuallty now holding less gas pressure than what your about to put in), attachch the appropriate ball valve to the beer out.This dip tube goes alway the way to the bottom of the keg.It makes the gas come up through the beer , instead of being put in via the normal gas in tube.Follow the Ross method , as suggested.
When you need to serve , swap your ball valves back to the appropriate lines ( that is put the beer out ball valve back to your tap/pluto line and put your gas line ball vale back onto your gas line)
As long as you are putting in a greater amount of gas volume into the keg , than the pressure you already have in it , you won't keg beer back up the line , into the keg.Beer won't come up the dip tube and into the line as long as gas in flowinhg into the keg !
Hope this helps !
Ferg
( who really should go to bed and stop drinking this saison)


----------



## ledgenko

I am not sure if I am on my own here but I wind my CO2 out to about 250 - 300 and hit it through the out post wait til the bubbling stops and remove the gas line .. let it sit for a day or two and then the gas seems to be just right to put the pouring pressure of 80 - 100 and life is good.. 

Am I creating a time bomb by doing this ?? 

This is the method I have used for past 8-9 kegs with out issue ..


----------



## raysailing

it is a very good method 

View attachment Aluminum_beverage_cylinder_from_SinoCleansky.pdf


View attachment Aluminum_beverage_cylinder_from_SinoCleansky.pdf


----------



## GrainStain

Guys,

Need some help here I think I am going loopy. I always have my reg set to 80 Kpa forserving. I noticed it creeping up past100 Kpa the other day. I kept bringingit back to 60 Kpa but after several hours it would keep climbing past 90 Kpa. After days of trying to adjust it, I gave upand connected a new cylinder.

The new cylinder sat bang on 80Kpa for several days with noissue. For an experiment I re connectedthe old cylinder and behold after a few hours it climbed to 100kpa again

Can anyone tell my why a near empty cylinder is pushing outmore pressure than a new one?

Both are 2.x Kg units from brewcraft, and both live outsideof the fridge (unit in question used to be inside the fridge)

Cheers,

Tony


----------



## maxi75

Hi Guys

Just a quick question regarding forced carbonation. Once you have gassed the keg and it says to leave for an hour, is it ok to leave in fridge or does it have stay at room temp??
Sorry for the dumb newbie question and thanks in advance.


----------



## Amber Fluid

Put it in the fridge mate.


----------



## maxi75

Amber Fluid said:


> Put it in the fridge mate.




Thanks for that
it's in the fridge now and hopefully i will having my first glass tommorrow night while the footy finals are on. :icon_cheers:


----------



## cat007

Hey

I tried the 40psi/275kpa (can't do 45psi as my reg does strange things above 42psi) and rocking for 50 seconds method - but when I turn the regulator off, the pressure settles back to about 28-30psi/190-205kpa.

I thought 'OH CRAP I've over carbonated the beer!' but when let the keg sit for an hour I released the pressure and tested the beer by pouring it into a glass and it's only slightly carbonated.

I really want to get this 'fast carbonating' method down packed - as I don't really want to have to wait for over a week for each batch to carb up.

Any pointers?

Hunt


----------



## Jace89

Im still learning myself, but I've cut the rocking back to about 40secs. I'd rather have under carbed then over. Over a couple of days it balances out anyways, I'm sure yours will at some point


----------



## cat007

Hey

Just wondering - I've got a Y splitter from my gas bottle regulator going into the top of 2x50L sanke kegs. Just wondering if having two kegs hooked up to the same reg will have any effect on the carbonation time? 

For example, if one keg takes 7 days, will 2 take 14? 

Cheers!


----------



## real_beer

Hunt said:


> Hey
> 
> Just wondering - I've got a Y splitter from my gas bottle regulator going into the top of 2x50L sanke kegs. Just wondering if having two kegs hooked up to the same reg will have any effect on the carbonation time?
> 
> For example, if one keg takes 7 days, will 2 take 14?
> 
> Cheers!


No. just make sure you've got a non return valve after your regulator in case you run out of gas & the pressure in the kegs tries to push beer back up the lines back into the regulator. 
This subject is a well covered in this post: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...c=26473&hl= :icon_cheers:


----------



## Maheel

just had a go at my 1st eva keg and force carbing


after i charged it up to 300 and gave it a shake for 1 min i took the gas off and put it back in the fridge 

going to go get a curry and come back and burp..... 

does that sound right / ok ?

if you had a no-return on the line do you still see the gas drop ? i dont but the gas did not really "go down" 
# i am using a fire X to charge then a small co2 bottle to pour


----------



## jbowers

Why not use the fire extinguisher to pour also?

That all sounds fine. Similar to what I do. I generally shake for 50 seconds then turn the gas off and continue to shake just to absorb a little more CO2. Definitely try to leave it for a little while before you burp it though - it's not fun getting a face full of foam...


----------



## Maheel

bit of a fail... flat beer with no real head ? <_< 

chucked my small co2 bottle in the fridge with it and shot a bit more gas into it and will leave it alone 
will pour some more tonight and see what happens 

taste is ok just needs some bubbles 





Maheel said:


> if you had a no-return on the line do you still see the gas drop ? i dont but the gas did not really "go down"



i had a think about this over the curry  the pressure would drop inside the keg and lower the pressure on the other side of the valve ...drr :lol:


----------



## jbowers

Maheel said:


> bit of a fail... flat beer with no real head ? <_<
> 
> chucked my small co2 bottle in the fridge with it and shot a bit more gas into it and will leave it alone
> will pour some more tonight and see what happens
> 
> taste is ok just needs some bubbles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had a think about this over the curry  the pressure would drop inside the keg and lower the pressure on the other side of the valve ...drr :lol:




If your beer was cold (under 5 degrees), there is no way you could have a flat beer after a minute of shaking at 300 kpa? Did you have the keg on it's side with the gas disconnect closest to the ground? That's how I do it, and I've had great success.


----------



## Maheel

jbowers said:


> If your beer was cold (under 5 degrees), there is no way you could have a flat beer after a minute of shaking at 300 kpa? Did you have the keg on it's side with the gas disconnect closest to the ground? That's how I do it, and I've had great success.




yeah rolled it on it's side DC down low and heard some bubbling in the keg. 
I filled the keg from the fermenter that was sitting at nearly 2"c and would have lost a little chill in the process but still very cold

i just had another pour and there is "some" bubble action but beer is WAY cloudy  ....lol
it was not that cloudy coming from the fermenter so maybe some chill haze?

i know the the little bottle is very low, hence hitting it with the fire X to begin 

i have to leave it alone for a while, i need to use the car....


----------



## jbowers

I find when it's first carbed up the carbonation isn't very well 'integrated'. Takes a couple of days. Also, you need to remember that being so pressurised and disturbed, the beer is going to scream right out of the tap at quite a speed. This will cause a lot of foaming and consequently, a lot of CO2 loss.


----------



## MarkBastard

After doing forced carbonation a fair bit I've got a system down pat that I'm happy with. This works for me, it may not for you.

I keg my beer, then purge air out of the head space with co2. I then connect a gas line with a beer disconnect and hook it up to the keg at about 275. I shake it for 45 seconds, then just pull the disconnect off and shake it for a minute. I don't bother turning the gas bottle off and watching the regulator to see what it drops to or anything like that. I then put it in my bar and let it sit for about 20 minutes before burping the keg (I give it a little burp to make sure it's not going to piss out beer first). Once I have burped out all of the co2 pressure in the head space I connect up a gas disconnect as per normal (including normal pouring pressure) and taste my beer.

I reckon the beer is probably 80 or 90% of the way towards perfect carbonation when I do it this way, and it gets to 100% by absorbing the serving pressure co2 over the next day or two. I see it as a lower risk. When I followed the instructions in the OP I found I was over carbing my kegs, so I'd rather deliberately under carb them and then let them get to proper carbing more slowly.

A slightly under carbed beer is still good enough to drink and satisfy your curiosity with regards to how the brew turned out.


----------



## Kingbrownbrewing

I found that for me the whole shaking of the keg was an inconsistent science, and after talking to one of my customers who happens to be a member of AHB (snow) he told me to just hook it up to the gas at 275 - 300 (depending on how carbed you want your beer) and leave it for 24 hours.

Every one I have done so far has been perfectly carbonated, whereas before I was always over carbonating it.


----------



## freezkat

King Brown Brewing said:


> I found that for me the whole shaking of the keg was an inconsistent science, and after talking to one of my customers who happens to be a member of AHB (snow) he told me to just hook it up to the gas at 275 - 300 (depending on how carbed you want your beer) and leave it for 24 hours.
> 
> Every one I have done so far has been perfectly carbonated, whereas before I was always over carbonating it.


Has anyone done a video of this and posted to youtube? This guide thread needs to be a 1 page locked sticky. 10-11 pages of discussion. I would like an empirical method.

cheers
bob


----------



## TBird

Ross said:


> Few guys kegging their first beer are going to wait a week to drink it.
> 
> If you are not comfortable with rapid carbonation & you are desperate to try your first beer - Simply roll back & forth at 300kpa for 30 seconds & disconnect from the gas. Then after waiting 5/10 minutes for the head to dissipate, release the pressure & reset the gas to 70kpa & continue to shake/roll until you can't hear any more bubbles being released into solution.
> This will take a little longer, but will make over carbing your 1st beer impossible.
> 
> Cheers Ross



Hi

Last night I tried this method. After the last step of resetting the gas to 70 kpa and rocking it, I could hear the bubbles being released into the solution. However, it kept on going and after a couple of minutes I stopped because I feared overgassing. Are my concerns unwarranted and should I have just kept on going with the roll, roll, roll, gurgle, gurgle, gurgle until it stopped gurgling even though it could take several minutes.

I've left the keg in the fridge overnight with the gas attached (at around 80 kpa).

Hope this is explained OK.

Cheers


----------



## Flewy

TBird said:


> Hi
> 
> Last night I tried this method. ... Are my concerns unwarranted?



I have used Ross's method above a few times, and as he says, by doing it this way it is impossible to overcarb the keg. If the beer's fully carbed up, and your pressure is still sitting at 70kPa, you can keep shaking as long as you want, no more gas is going to go into solution. If you've given it a decent effort as described by Ross, and had it sitting at 80kPa overnight, you should be good to go.

Relax!


----------



## MarkBastard

Flewy said:


> by doing it this way it is impossible to overcarb the keg.



Where does the 70kpa come from though? You need to know the temperature of the beer and the desired level of carbonation before working out a pressure.


----------



## TBird

Thanks Flewy

This morning I set up the keg again and starting rolling the keg and listening for any gurgling. I must have pulled up short on my original attempt because it took about another 15 mins of rolling for the gurgling to stop. The brew is a bit hazy at the moment so it's hard to see any bubbles in the glass, but I'm fairly confident it's close to an acceptable carbonation level.

By the way, the beer was about 6 degrees c while I was carbonating.

Cheers


----------



## Flewy

Mark^Bastard said:


> Where does the 70kpa come from though? You need to know the temperature of the beer and the desired level of carbonation before working out a pressure.



Yeah, fair point. The 70kPa came from Ross's original post, and should probably just say "whatever your normal carbing pressure is, based on temp and desired level of carbonation". Personally I used 85, because that is what works for me with my setup, but the basic theory stays the same.


----------



## HaveFun

i will get my first beer in 2 weeks and i will try the ross carbonation method ...

before i try it with my beer can i give it a go with a keg full of water ?

thanks
cheers
stefan


----------



## stux

BavariaStefan said:


> i will get my first beer in 2 weeks and i will try the ross carbonation method ...
> 
> before i try it with my beer can i give it a go with a keg full of water ?
> 
> thanks
> cheers
> stefan



You could, but I find its much harder to carbonate soda water than beer for some reason. And I normally carbnate the soda water at a much higher pressure.

Anyway, I leave my soda keg on 300kpa for 3-4 days to get it nice and fizzy. After that there's plenty of gas to dispense just based on my standard dispense pressure (85kpa)

I've used the ross method to get a soda water on tap quickly, but it takes a helluva lot of effort to get it ready.

My point is, soda water at beer carbonation levels tastes almost flat, so you're not really going to get much beer relevant experience from playing with water... But why not make some soda water while you're waiting


----------



## nala

Stux said:


> You could, but I find its much harder to carbonate soda water than beer for some reason. And I normally carbnate the soda water at a much higher pressure.
> 
> Anyway, I leave my soda keg on 300kpa for 3-4 days to get it nice and fizzy. After that there's plenty of gas to dispense just based on my standard dispense pressure (85kpa)
> 
> I've used the ross method to get a soda water on tap quickly, but it takes a helluva lot of effort to get it ready.
> 
> My point is, soda water at beer carbonation levels tastes almost flat, so you're not really going to get much beer relevant experience from playing with water... But why not make some soda water while you're waiting



Why does everyone talk in kpa pressure instead of PSI or Bar.....am I the only forum member with a Harris
CO2 regulator which registers in PSI or Bar ?


----------



## nala

Stux said:


> You could, but I find its much harder to carbonate soda water than beer for some reason. And I normally carbnate the soda water at a much higher pressure.
> 
> Anyway, I leave my soda keg on 300kpa for 3-4 days to get it nice and fizzy. After that there's plenty of gas to dispense just based on my standard dispense pressure (85kpa)
> 
> I've used the ross method to get a soda water on tap quickly, but it takes a helluva lot of effort to get it ready.
> 
> My point is, soda water at beer carbonation levels tastes almost flat, so you're not really going to get much beer relevant experience from playing with water... But why not make some soda water while you're waiting



Why does everyone talk in kpa pressure instead of PSI or Bar.....am I the only forum member with a Harris
CO2 regulator which registers in PSI or Bar ?


----------



## crd0902

I have a harris too. I understand your drama. You do know how to convert it


----------



## michael_aussie

crd0902 said:


> I have a harris too. I understand your drama. You do know how to convert it


1 psi = 6.8948 KPa

in rough terms 1psi = 7kPa..


so divide by 7


70kPa = 10psi (approx)


----------



## emmack33

Any tips on kegging a brew and storing it for a later date, i only have a small fridge in my shed which can only hold one keg, i have only started kegging recently, so would like to know if storing is possible


----------



## pokolbinguy

Beers2U said:


> Any tips on kegging a brew and storing it for a later date, i only have a small fridge in my shed which can only hold one keg, i have only started kegging recently, so would like to know if storing is possible



Sure is possible. You have a few options if storing 

- Natural Carbonation, just like in bottle you prime keg with "sugar" (dextrose usually) and let it go through secondary fermentation during storage. When you are ready to drink it (atleast 2 weeks later to allow for the secondary ferment) then it will be carbonated and ready to get cold.

- Forced carbonation - you can do this either prior to or after storage, you will have to chill the keg to make life easier for force carbonation. If you plan on carbonating afterwards you should "burp" the keg with CO2 before storing to get rid of any left over oxygen in the keg which will oxidise your beer and make it go off.

My recommendation is that if you are planning on storing multiple kegs, so you can basically rotate them is to rack to the keg from your fermenter, prime and store. That way it will carbonate itself in the mean time and will be ready to rock and roll when you need it (given you can wait a couple/few weeks).

Allowing your beer to "age" for atleast a month or so will in general (very big generalisation here) make it taste better anyway. 

Hope this helps.

Pok


----------



## emmack33

pokolbinguy said:


> Sure is possible. You have a few options if storing
> 
> - Natural Carbonation, just like in bottle you prime keg with "sugar" (dextrose usually) and let it go through secondary fermentation during storage. When you are ready to drink it (atleast 2 weeks later to allow for the secondary ferment) then it will be carbonated and ready to get cold.
> 
> - Forced carbonation - you can do this either prior to or after storage, you will have to chill the keg to make life easier for force carbonation. If you plan on carbonating afterwards you should "burp" the keg with CO2 before storing to get rid of any left over oxygen in the keg which will oxidise your beer and make it go off.
> 
> My recommendation is that if you are planning on storing multiple kegs, so you can basically rotate them is to rack to the keg from your fermenter, prime and store. That way it will carbonate itself in the mean time and will be ready to rock and roll when you need it (given you can wait a couple/few weeks).
> 
> Allowing your beer to "age" for atleast a month or so will in general (very big generalisation here) make it taste better anyway.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Pok




Whats your tips on fixing Flat beer from keg?


----------



## jakethesnake559

Beers2U said:


> Whats your tips on fixing Flat beer from keg?



Chill it and re-carb using your CO2 cylinder.
You could force carb if you are thirsty or set to desired pressure and leave it for a week.


----------



## Thefatdoghead

nala said:


> Why does everyone talk in kpa pressure instead of PSI or Bar.....am I the only forum member with a Harris
> CO2 regulator which registers in PSI or Bar ?


Australians use the metric system S.I units. I don't get people who use imperial like lb's, PSI inches etc to bloody confusing! specific gravity of water is 1 (about close enough) 1 litter of water weighs 1 kg. Barometric pressure of atmosphere is 1 bar (close enough) is that not easier i say? 

That milling machine I used to use was in thousandth of an inch increments bloody pain in the ass! You can have you psi.


----------



## whitegoose

Will this method work using the same pressure and same rocking times if I am force carbonating a 9L mini corny keg?


----------



## whitegoose

whitegoose said:


> Will this method work using the same pressure and same rocking times if I am force carbonating a 9L mini corny keg?


Anyone?


----------



## wood88

I would say the same method would work but instead of shaking it for 50 seconds do it for 25 secs since its half the amount otherwise you will over carb it.


----------



## Maheel

i am finding i over carb by forcing, but i do shake and roll a bit longer than the norm.

to fix i a pour a few beers in a night with no gas "on" and let it push itself out. 
carb level drops and the next day or so it comes good


----------



## whitegoose

wood88 said:


> I would say the same method would work but instead of shaking it for 50 seconds do it for 25 secs since its half the amount otherwise you will over carb it.


Thanks for the inpur - I took your advoce. I just gave it a wack and shook for 22 seconds... pressure ended up dropping too low so did it again for 10 seconds... pressure ended up resting at about 20 psi so I figure I'll leave it there and slow carb it the rest of the way... I've got 6 days before I need it ready for drinking. Note that I could only get the pressure up to 42 psi.


----------



## sgw86

Hi All,



Created a new topic but really should have just posted here....apolagies. Mods can delete my other topic if they wish.

I recently setup a new keg setup and am completely puzzled on trying to get the correct carbonation.

I am after a carbonation volume of about 2.5-3....something similar to your commercial Australian Lagers would be best (i believe this is about 2.5??)


If I wanted to achieve consistent results everytime what is the best method to achieve my carbonation volume over a day or two? I did read that you can hook up the keg and then set the reg at 30-40 PSI for 2 days but wasn't sure what carbonation level this would give me. 

If I wanted to go the slower method for carbonation should I hook up the keg to the correct PSI (as per the carbonation table) for 7 days and then back it off to pouring pressure?

My keg is also sitting at roughly 2-3C in the keg fridge.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Sam.


----------



## Calais_5sp

Quick question,
Just done this method as described and pressure dropped to 160 so all looking good.
But now i have beer flowed into the gas lines and possible into the regulator.
Can i take the disconnect off the keg while i am waiting the hour to clean the lines and check the regulator?


----------



## craigo

How long should i leave my keg at 150kpa for carbonating for its at 3 degress i read about 48hrs is this correct?


----------



## 6tri6ple6

Hi all,
Is there any correlation between the final gravity of a beer and and the absorbsion of co2 into said beer?
I've just kegged a Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast clone which had an fg of 1.026 due to all the oats in the mash.
Force carbed it as I normally do, which is the Ross method and then rocking for a further 5 to 10 minutes at serving pressure just in case it fell short. I poured my first beer, and it's flat. Almost no fizz. 
Is it just the case of I need to crank it up for longer whilst rocking the keg?

Cheers


----------



## cat007

6tri6ple6 said:


> Hi all,
> Is there any correlation between the final gravity of a beer and and the absorbsion of co2 into said beer?
> I've just kegged a Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast clone which had an fg of 1.026 due to all the oats in the mash.
> Force carbed it as I normally do, which is the Ross method and then rocking for a further 5 to 10 minutes at serving pressure just in case it fell short. I poured my first beer, and it's flat. Almost no fizz.
> Is it just the case of I need to crank it up for longer whilst rocking the keg?
> 
> Cheers




I always thought the rocking method only works when you crank the psi up. At serving pressure I would've thought you'd get the same result as you have - flat beer....

Maybe rock it for 5-10 mins at 20-25psi?


----------



## rotten

Hook up as you would for Ross method. Crank the reg up to 350psi for 15 seconds. No rocking required. Leave for 15 mins, release pressure. Set to serving pressure and enjoy. It will take a few more days to be perfect but you will be drinking carbed beer before you know it.
:beer:


----------



## 6tri6ple6

rotten said:


> Hook up as you would for Ross method. Crank the reg up to 350psi for 15 seconds. No rocking required. Leave for 15 mins, release pressure. Set to serving pressure and enjoy. It will take a few more days to be perfect but you will be drinking carbed beer before you know it.
> :beer:



Ok no worries. Thought that would have been the case.Cheers.


----------



## Nick JD

I roll on the floor at 150kpa for 60 seconds, put in the fridge and wait for a few hours. 

Connect the gas back up at serving pressure and pour.


----------



## Maheel

i over carbed one on Thurs doing this method.... i hate that.... nothing but froth... 

it's just about come good but by letting out some every time i go past the fridge


----------



## Spork

Have done this a few times now, as I ran low on grain and my consumption outpaced production. :huh: 
I CC my beer at 0.5c, so after filtering into keg I can force carb easily with the near freezing liquid absorbing the bubbles really well.
Haven't got the method perfect yet, and hope to soon get ahead in my production so I can resume slow carbing on a spare line while serving form other 3 kegs, but for times of crisis (no beer on tap!) this is a winner.


----------



## wood88

If you want to force carb a warm keg of beer say around 22 deg Celsius.
What would be the best way to do this?

I have seen the force carb charts but they don't tell you how long you need to do this for?
This is for my dad who used to force carb by chilling with his chest freezer (kegerator) but that died and he bought a ice chiller, so the kegs stay warm.

Any help on this would be great, we currently need to carb a cider in a 9L keg and an ale an normal corny keg.

Cheers


----------



## slash22000

So I got greedy and tried this method rather than my normal "Set to 30 PSI and wait 2 days" approach.

Went well until Step 6 "Turn the gas off at the regulator". Ended up blowing beer right up the line into the regulator. I turned it off straight away and blew the beer out of the regulator with the gas. It still seems to work. Hopefully?

Not sure what I did wrong. Maybe I am cursed. "Turn the gas off at the regulator" - does this mean at the actual regulator itself, or at the bottle? Can somebody clarify exactly what this means? I'm sure I've just done something ******* stupid since it seems to work for everybody else. I am not actually sure exactly what I did, the stress and freak out of seeing beer shoot up the gas line has erased my memory. :wacko:


----------



## glenwal

slash22000 said:


> Not sure what I did wrong.


You didn't put a non return valve in.


----------



## raven19

I had to gas up a keg of golden ale for cricket mates, I simply went 300kPa for 24hrs in the fridge.

Normally I never touch my reg settings.

A non return valve is a must imo - cheap insurance for your reg.


----------



## bignath

slash22000 said:


> Went well until Step 6 "Turn the gas off at the regulator". Ended up blowing beer right up the line into the regulator. I turned it off straight away and blew the beer out of the regulator with the gas. It still seems to work. Hopefully?
> 
> You'll need to replace the seal inside the regulator.
> 
> I did the same thing once only, when i first started kegging (it's a common problem) and of course your reg will still work, but over time, the liquid that was inside your regulator will start rusting all the parts inside the reg. Trust me, get a new rebuild kit. Craftbrewer sell them. Others probably do too, but i KNOW they sell them.
> 
> Not sure what I did wrong. Maybe I am cursed. "Turn the gas off at the regulator" - does this mean at the actual regulator itself, or at the bottle?
> 
> At the bottle.
> Think about it. If you leave the bottle with the valve open 'cause you've been carbing the keg, and then just turn the regulator down, all the pressure inside the keg will go back into the regulator because now all of a sudden, the pressure going into the keg is less than what's in the keg already. Instant problem.
> 
> Turn the bottle off without touching the regulator, and then continue as normal per step 6. (shake the shit out of the keg and watch the pressure guage drop).



Answers in red.


----------



## slash22000

Thanks for that Big Nath. 

I'm assuming the kit you're talking about is this one? How about the "WARNING" part there? Not going to blow myself up am I? :mellow: 

I'll be buying a no-return valve ASAP for sure. I didn't even know they existed until the posters above mentioned them. You'd think that's the sort of thing that should come standard. Ah well, live and learn.

All that said, the force carbing did work, aside from the "ruining my regulator" part!


----------



## Truman42

Just a quick queston, but if I use a NRV in my gas line how do I read the gas pressue in my keg? Wont the NRV stop the gas pressure from coming back into the regulator??

on a diferent note, I went to put 40 PSi into my keg to let it sit for 24 hours and read the wrong part of the gauge. I ended up trying to put 40 BAR which is 58 PSI but the regulator stopped at about 35 BAR and started stuttering the reg releif valve.

Ive just let it sit all weekend and will see how it pours tonight.


----------



## Nick JD

Truman said:


> Just a quick queston, but if I use a NRV in my gas line how do I read the gas pressue in my keg? Wont the NRV stop the gas pressure from coming back into the regulator??



Non return valve is betwen the kegs and the regulator. Regulator gauge reads the regulator pressure it's "giving", not it's "given".


----------



## Truman42

Thanks for that informative diagram Nick.

But Ive read carbing how tos that say on day 3 connect up your regulator and check to see what pressure is in the keg. I still dont get how I can do this espeically as you say the reg gauge shows reg presure its giving not what its being given?


----------



## GalBrew

Truman said:


> Thanks for that informative diagram Nick.
> 
> But Ive read carbing how tos that say on day 3 connect up your regulator and check to see what pressure is in the keg. I still dont get how I can do this espeically as you say the reg gauge shows reg presure its giving not what its being given?



I don't see how hooking up a keg to your regulator will tell you the pressure in the keg? The regulator regulates gas pressure out not in. You may have the bottle off and some residual pressure within the reg that shows up on the second dial, but that is not keg pressure. You can buy a thing that you plug into your keg that has a dial on it that will tell you keg pressure (I think craftbrewer sells one) but that is a different thing altogether. Also if you have a check valve nothing should be running back to the regulator from the keg at all.


----------



## stux

Basically, you can't tell the pressure in the keg when you have an NRV.

All you can tell is that the gas in the line between the reg and the NRV pressure. which means the keg will be that, or higher.


----------



## kahlerisms

Does this method need any adjusting if you're carbing a keg that's maybe half full or less?


----------



## jaymzica

raven19 said:


> I had to gas up a keg of golden ale for cricket mates, I simply went 300kPa for 24hrs in the fridge.
> 
> Normally I never touch my reg settings.
> 
> A non return valve is a must imo - cheap insurance for your reg.
> 
> Ive got no idea when it comes to force carbing. some how ive managed to carb 2 kegs so far, but that's rocking them, adjusting gas ect, leaving for a day or so. I might just try that 300kpa for 24hrs next time


----------



## ash2

Beers2U said:


> Any tips on kegging a brew and storing it for a later date, i only have a small fridge in my shed which can only hold one keg, i have only started kegging recently, so would like to know if storing is possible


When storing a brew in a keg does it matter what temp it is,will your beer age in a keg like it does in bottles ?


----------



## Doug2232

Guys,

Sorry new to the kegging game and about to christen my new kegs. Stupid question but just wanted to be sure.

I have just done my first CC and its currently at 4 degrees. I am assuming i can skip the 24-48 hr wait for the temp to fall to 4 degree in the keg and just carb straight away after transfer as the beer temp is at 4 degrees. Didnt know if the actual keg also needs to be cold? Was going to sterilise, transfer and carb...

Thanks
Doug

**EDIT** Think Spork answered my question above... **


----------



## Ross

Yes, you can. If you're unsure on anything please don't hesitate to give me a call & I'll take you through it over the phone 07 3823 5252.


cheers Ross


----------



## Steve

Doug2232 said:


> Guys,
> 
> Sorry new to the kegging game and about to christen my new kegs. Stupid question but just wanted to be sure.
> 
> I have just done my first CC and its currently at 4 degrees. I am assuming i can skip the 24-48 hr wait for the temp to fall to 4 degree in the keg and just carb straight away after transfer as the beer temp is at 4 degrees. Didnt know if the actual keg also needs to be cold? Was going to sterilise, transfer and carb...
> 
> Thanks
> Doug


The keg itself doesn't need to be cold just the beer....so yes sanitise that first and then transfer and carb.
Good to see Ross is still happy to guide people through this over the phone. I remember stuffing up my first force carb and he was straight on the phone. I over carbed it!!!
Cheers
Steve


----------



## roastinrich

Has anyone ever experienced off flavours from force carbing using contaminated co2. I've been getting mine refilled from an aquarium guy and sometimes my beers have a funky taste. Can't figure out if it's from the co2, or chlorine in the top up water ( k&k).


----------



## NewtownClown

Steve said:


> The keg itself doesn't need to be cold just the beer....so yes sanitise that first and then transfer and carb.
> Good to see Ross is still happy to guide people through this over the phone. I remember stuffing up my first force carb and he was straight on the phone. I over carbed it!!!
> Cheers
> Steve


 You are correct in that the keg _needn't _be cold, but it sure helps keep the beer close to the temperature it is at already and reduces foaming


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## rehabs_for_quitters

you mentioned sometimes my beers have a funky taste, do you use the same CO2 bottle with all brews? I am going to assume you have one CO2 bottle and my guess is CO2 is fine and you have other issues in your process as if the CO2 was bad all kegs would suffer the same symptoms,

Can you decribe the funky taste?


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## Liam_snorkel

NewtownClown said:


> You are correct in that the keg _needn't _be cold, but it sure helps keep the beer close to the temperature it is at already and reduces foaming


foaming? my kegs have been rinsed with boiling water immediately prior to transferring (and are quite hot to the touch) and I don't get any foaming at all.


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## roastinrich

rehabs_for_quitters said:


> you mentioned sometimes my beers have a funky taste, do you use the same CO2 bottle with all brews? I am going to assume you have one CO2 bottle and my guess is CO2 is fine and you have other issues in your process as if the CO2 was bad all kegs would suffer the same symptoms,
> 
> Can you decribe the funky taste?


It's kind of a bandaid / medicine aroma. Yes I only have the one tank and lately i haven't been getting the funky smell , I thought cos I was priming the keg with a bit of dextrose, instead of force carbing. Still using co2 tank to push it through. Do you think it's more a sanitisation problem?


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## manticle

How chlorinated is your water?

Do you use bleach at all in your sanitation?

Band-aid/medicinal is commonly associated with chlorephenols which are caused by chlorine so more likely that than the co2.

However wild yeasts can also create medicinal flavours/smells so contamination is not impossible.


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## roastinrich

manticle said:


> How chlorinated is your water?
> 
> Do you use bleach at all in your sanitation?
> 
> Band-aid/medicinal is commonly associated with chlorephenols which are caused by chlorine so more likely that than the co2.
> 
> However wild yeasts can also create medicinal flavours/smells so contamination is not impossible.


Not sure how to test chorine level manticle but the water used to top up is run through an underbench carbon filter (culligan). The sanitation process of kegs is PSR in hot water push through with steam pressure then a boiling water rinse then spray with phosphoric acid. Have since changed to starsan.


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## NewtownClown

Liam_snorkel said:


> foaming? my kegs have been rinsed with boiling water immediately prior to transferring (and are quite hot to the touch) and I don't get any foaming at all.


Then you must have very little to no co2 in suspension.
Pouring a beer into a hot glass will foam more than when pouring into a chilled glass


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## 431neb

I'm breaking in a new font and I've had real trouble with foaming.

I have read everything there is on the forums about rogue taps and plutos, warm fonts , leaky seals, o-rings, beer out posts, temperature differentials, sanitizer residue plus the rest and was leaning heavily towards a perforated dip tube ( sounds painful!) but - I am pleased to report that my initial fears were well founded.

I am a retard. It was over carbonated.

It seems the success I have had in the past with my shake if for a bit at 400 kpa was a little unscientific.

**** I'm glad it's working now. I have been testing all afternoon!! / falls down.


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## cliffybb

King Brown Brewing said:


> I found that for me the whole shaking of the keg was an inconsistent science, and after talking to one of my customers who happens to be a member of AHB (snow) he told me to just hook it up to the gas at 275 - 300 (depending on how carbed you want your beer) and leave it for 24 hours.
> 
> Every one I have done so far has been perfectly carbonated, whereas before I was always over carbonating it.


I'm only new to home brewing and This is how I would like to carb my beer, when you say carb for 24hrs are you meaning the beer is already cold (4 degrees c or so) when you do this. By the way I have 23litre kegs. Should I maybe add a couple more hrs on for the extra litres.?


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## catcher

Thank you


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## Tahoose

Seeing as I am new to kegging I just wanted to input on this thread, as I'm pretty sure that this have me the idea for my setup.

In my keezer I have 2 regulators, reg 1 runs to a 4-way manifold which holds my main kegs at serving pressure (12 psi) the 2nd reg runs a 2-way manifold, with 1 gas disconnect and one liquid disconnect. 

This allows me to run all 5 taps on my system, with optional pressures and when I have a new keg if I wish to carb it a little quicker. I increase the pressure on reg 2 and run it through the liquid disconnect and liquid out post on the keg, this enables me to run the gas down the dip tube and carbonate from the bottom-up.

I generally hit it with a little co2 and then burp the keg to remove oxygen, then attach for a day at 30psi.


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## Proffs

Tahoose said:


> In my keezer I have 2 regulators, reg 1 runs to a 4-way manifold which holds my main kegs at serving pressure (12 psi) the 2nd reg runs a 2-way manifold, with 1 gas disconnect and one liquid disconnect.


Nice idea. I wish I had a little more foresight at times. And extra cash. Haha


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## Tahoose

Probably cost $120 for the dual reg adapter, reg and manifold. 

I only wanted to build one keezer so I have gone for it all at once. Praying I don't need to throw any more money at it.


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## beercus

Help please.....

I think this maybe a stupid question.

Trying my hand at force carbing. Followed all the steps, but when I turn the tank off, the gauge does not move, it just stays on 44psi...
I don't get the bit (step 6) where the pressure drops. I have the standard keg king regulator...
Thanks
Beercus


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## danestead

beercus said:


> Help please.....
> I think this maybe a stupid question.
> Trying my hand at force carbing. Followed all the steps, but when I turn the tank off, the gauge does not move, it just stays on 44psi...
> I don't get the bit (step 6) where the pressure drops. I have the standard keg king regulator...
> Thanks
> Beercus


You are turning the bottle off at the blttle, not the regulator right? If so, not sure why the pressure isnt dropping.


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## Tahoose

beercus said:


> Help please.....
> 
> I think this maybe a stupid question.
> 
> Trying my hand at force carbing. Followed all the steps, but when I turn the tank off, the gauge does not move, it just stays on 44psi...
> I don't get the bit (step 6) where the pressure drops. I have the standard keg king regulator...
> Thanks
> Beercus


After you turn of the bottle there is a pressure valve to vent the excess pressure in the regulator, vent this and it will drop to '0'


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## beercus

danestead said:


> You are turning the bottle off at the blttle, not the regulator right? If so, not sure why the pressure isnt dropping.



Yep off at the bottle



Tahoose said:


> After you turn of the bottle there is a pressure valve to vent the excess pressure in the regulator, vent this and it will drop to '0'


Yes, Release the valve and it goes to 0,

I have a one valve in the line, could this be why I do not get a reading off the keg


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## Tahoose

As far as I know your not going to get a reading from the keg as such. But you are best to look up a kegging chart and see what psi/kpa you need to set your regulator to, in regards to desired volumes of CO2 and knowing the temp of your fridge is a good start also.

Then when you set your regulator it will maintain that pressure.


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## Kingy

I take it you are force carbing as in rocking the keg? If you are : 
I just turn the pressure off at the regulator then rock the keg untill the pressure steadys around 120-150kpa. (If it's lower than that It needs more pressure and more rocking) leave for about 15mins then vent the pressure at the keg. Set to serving pressure (I use 65-70kpa (ales) it's carbed but still takes a day or 3 to reach equilibrium.


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## Pirate323i

Hi all, this was asked by someone earlier, but no response... 
I would like to carb my keg at "basement temp" currently about 15*C. I am not in any hurry, can I just set to serving temp and leave for a few weeks? I will be serving through an ice box...


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## Pirate323i

Bump!


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## mxd

No, use the spreadsheet for temp and pressure or use sugar to carb


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## contrarian

Has anyone used this method for a 9L keg with success? I have tried it a few times and while I have never had any major issues with a standard corny I don't seem to get a good result with a 9L. Have tried reducing time etc but all without success.


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## danestead

If you are having trouble with overcarbing, try just setting your regulator to dispensing pressure(10-14psi) and shaking the bejesus out of it. You will never over carb your beer that way. The more head space in the keg, the easier with this method as it helps the co2 dissolve easier.


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## hwall95

I'm not sure if I overcarbed my beer or not, but I force carbed my english mild around 2 hours ago and I'm struggling to get the beer QD locked in without beer leaking out.. Anyone have any solutions, it's kinda sad to see beer leak everywhere everytime I try to connect the tap.


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## scon

Did you depressurise?


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## hwall95

Yeah it was depressurised, the ball vavle just wouldn't close properly basically :huh:


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## dblunn

Is the o-ring on the post ok?


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## hwall95

Yeah it is know, just needed a bit of lubing and it's good. Shanks to beer line still leaking but I'll just get a new less-frigidity connection and it will hopefully be good. 

Have another keg to in a day or two so hopefully it'll sort itself


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## droid

Hi all, just a quick one - poured from my first keg yesty, stoked!

Have another beer ready to keg - Will 15 ltrs going into a 20 ltr keg be treated any different or same same pressure?

tIA


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## Crusty

Same, same.


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## Liam_snorkel

I find that the more head space, the more readily it accepts the CO2.


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## Benn

droid said:


> Hi all, just a quick one - poured from my first keg yesty, stoked!


I poured my first on Tuesday night, it's like magic, I was so exited I could hardly sleep. I really want to get stuck into it now...


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## danestead

droid said:


> Hi all, just a quick one - poured from my first keg yesty, stoked!
> 
> Have another beer ready to keg - Will 15 ltrs going into a 20 ltr keg be treated any different or same same pressure?
> 
> tIA


Opposite to what some have said, yes it definitely makes a difference.

It takes a long time to shake about and carb up a keg which is filled to the brim. If it is filled a few cm below the brim, it will accept the co2 much easier because there is more room for it to be shaken around. Be careful to not over carb your beer! If you are putting considerably less beer in that a full keg, like you are, I find you can set your regulator to serving pressure and shake the hell out of it. You will never over carb your beer this way. You don't need the 45psi/300kpa if it isn't full. You will end up over carbing your beer if you arent very careful.


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## Diesel80

Look at all these happy new keggers! Warms the heart it does.

Cheers,
D80


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## Lovemebeer

Hi all, just seeing if anyone can give me some answers. I have kegged and c02 carbed my last 3 beers, and have just left my keg connected to serving pressure at 13-14 psi for about 7 days. The first 2 have been perfect, but the 3rd is still pretty flat. I cranked it to 30 odd psi, rolled on the ground for a few minutes, then released back to serving pressure and left for another few days but still flat. Wondering if anyone has answers or tips for a still newby to c02 carbonating.


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## danestead

Have you checked the keg for leaks? Is it a similar style beer to the successfully carbed batches?


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## Lovemebeer

danestead said:


> Have you checked the keg for leaks? Is it a similar style beer to the successfully carbed batches?


Yea it is the same beer and definitely no leaks.


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## osprey brewday

Check the poppet spring on the gas in post or quick connect . i had one where it had a to strong a spring in it and would not open to allow the correct pressure through it was like a second regulator in the line.


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## Grott

Since you did a bit of a forced carb ("I cranked it to 30 odd psi, rolled on the ground for a few minutes") I'd say gas is not getting in, when you forced carbed did you here gas bubbling in the keg for those minutes? If so, sounds like a leak so recheck.
Cheers


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## Lovemebeer

Must have been something to do with the gas in connect. I pulled it apart, and put it back together.then tried force carb for the first time, and within the hour she was good. Couldn't wait another week


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## doctr-dan

Just a quick one , I've been force carbonating at 40psi for 48hrs and have found this a little hit and miss but not to bad.

I now have my kegerator setup with a single co2 line into the fridge and then a splitter of to each keg. 

Since I only have one regulator I wanted to try carbing at serving pressure so I don't need to adjust the regulator up and down etc etc 

I've got it set to about 70kpa / 10psi 

At this pressure how long does it take to carbonate? I've read through a fes threads and it seems to range from 4-7 days 

Thanks


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## danestead

doctr-dan said:


> Just a quick one , I've been force carbonating at 40psi for 48hrs and have found this a little hit and miss but not to bad.
> 
> I now have my kegerator setup with a single co2 line into the fridge and then a splitter of to each keg.
> 
> Since I only have one regulator I wanted to try carbing at serving pressure so I don't need to adjust the regulator up and down etc etc
> 
> I've got it set to about 70kpa / 10psi
> 
> At this pressure how long does it take to carbonate? I've read through a fes threads and it seems to range from 4-7 days
> 
> Thanks


Probably 7-10 days if your beer is cold to be at a stable carbonation. Probably about 5 days until there is enough fizz to not think you are drinking a hand pumped real ale.


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## Grott

Hi doctr-dan, IMO carbonating a keg for 7-10 days at serving pressure ("set and forget") is fine if you can have multi kegs being chilled or have a slow consumption rate. Using a two outlet manifold attached to the outside of the fridge I have an external gas connect line from the regulator so I can purge and force carb kegs. The other line goes into the fridge and splits to a dispensing keg and another keg to just finish off and prepare the next keg (a forced carb keg).

Try this, assuming you have 19l kegs chill down to 3-4 degrees, remove from fridge/kegerator, release any pressure and attach external gas disconnect to the gas in, set reg to 30psi, lay keg on its side and rock back and forth for 100 seconds (use stop watch on mobile) - you will hear gas bubbling through the beer. After 100 seconds turn gas off at bottle and continue to rock, the pressure gauge will go to zero and continue rocking until the pressure gauge drops to 20psi. If it goes past 20psi open tap on bottle, turn off again and repeat rocking. (do this only once). This keg will now be just slightly under carbonated, put in fridge and leave min. of 3 hours to allow beer to settle, then release pressure in keg, connect other gas line at dispensing pressure and it will be ready to drink when the other keg finishes.
Cheers


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## tonyod

The rule of thumb I use is to carbonate for 70 psi-days. Since I pour at 10psi that takes 70/10 = 7 days to properly carbonate. If I'm in a hurry 2 days at 35psi (2 x 35 = 70) will do. Or 3 days at 24 (=72. Close enough). Those times I accelerate the process I disconnect, release pressure, hook up and pour at 10psi - perfect.

Cheers.


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## danestead

tonyod said:


> The rule of thumb I use is to carbonate for 70 psi-days. Since I pour at 10psi that takes 70/10 = 7 days to properly carbonate. If I'm in a hurry 2 days at 35psi (2 x 35 = 70) will do. Or 3 days at 24 (=72. Close enough). Those times I accelerate the process I disconnect, release pressure, hook up and pour at 10psi - perfect.
> 
> Cheers.


Interesting. I'd like to try that myself.


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## sixfignig

What adjustments should I make when force carbing a 9.5L keg (if any) ?


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## tonyod

sixfignig said:


> What adjustments should I make when force carbing a 9.5L keg (if any) ?


Half the beer (9.5 vs 19L) means we need half the gas to carbonate - so try 35 psi-days as the rule of thumb. If you pour at 10psi then it will take 3.5 days to carbonate.

Cheers.


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## Grott

sixfignig said:


> What adjustments should I make when force carbing a 9.5L keg (if any) ?


or 50 seconds with the force carb method mentioned above.
Cheers


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## danestead

Word of warning, this force carb method is very variable by the amount of headspace in your keg. You are better under doing it than over doing it and having over carbed beer.


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## doctr-dan

I've had mine since last Wednesday afternoon at serving pressure 70kpa and this morning (morning of the tenth day) it's still pretty flat!


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## Lord Raja Goomba I

Never been able to get the rock n roll method right, so I just turn up to serving pressure and wait a week.


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## bradsbrew

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> Never been able to get the rock n roll method right, so I just turn up to serving pressure and wait a week.


Having it sit at 3 bar for 24hrs works a treat as well.


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## razz

doctr-dan said:


> I've had mine since last Wednesday afternoon at serving pressure 70kpa and this morning (morning of the tenth day) it's still pretty flat!


Take a couple schooners out of it, it will carb up ok.


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## doctr-dan

razz said:


> Take a couple schooners out of it, it will carb up ok.


How does taking a couple of schooners out of it help?


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## manticle

Makes the waiting less painful


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## razz

A bit more head space, works for me.


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## Grott

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> Never been able to get the rock n roll method right, so I just turn up to serving pressure and wait a week.


Just give my method above one go, I'm sure you will be pleased. Cheers.




danestead said:


> Word of warning, this force carb method is very variable by the amount of headspace in your keg. You are better under doing it than over doing it and having over carbed beer.


Use the seam below the gas tube as your guide, repeatability is fairly consistent. With my method (adaption of the Ross Method) as described, never over carbed, just under.
Cheers


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## GNU

Easiest and fastest way to force carb beer that is 15 degrees


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## Rocker1986

Dunno about 15 degrees but I use a variation of tonyod's method for my kegs.

I always put three full kegs into the kegerator at once, and fill the next three while those are being consumed. Then I wait until the last of the three is empty before the next lot of three goes in, and so on. This also allows me to clean out the kegerator periodically if needed without having to move partially full kegs around. Anyway...

My kegs are at room temp when they go in as I don't have a keg storage fridge (yet), so they go in and I hook up the gas at 45 PSI, and leave it there for about 20-22 hours. At this point I remove the gas disconnects and let the kegs sit for another 6 or 7 or whatever hours before bleeding any pressure and hooking the gas lines back up at normal serving pressure, and the beer lines as well. I find this results in slightly under carbonated beer, but still carbed enough to enjoy a glass or two and by the next day they're fully carbed. So all up about one or two days and they're all good.


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## GNU

I've got 3 kegs to do at once with a line splitter. Does this change the pressure? Also I can't fit all three in the fridge.


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## Pirate323i

I dont have a keg fridge at all. (I use a jockey box) so I force carb at room temperature. (I found a calculator on line). It works perfectly well.


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## Rocker1986

Line splitters don't (or shouldn't) change the pressure. I used to use them before I got my manifold.


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## TROY SWEETING

Awesome steps thanks heaps, hoping mine will be ready to taste shortly


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## Lord Raja Goomba I

Splitters are awesome. 

Also got the micromatic secondary reg. Awesome investment. Does lower carbonated beers on the same line and I can isolated carbonated beers whilst force carbing a new keg.


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## Boxcar

GNU said:


> Also I can't fit all three in the fridge.



THAT changes the pressure required to achieve the same volume of CO2.  You'll need a higher pressure for warmer keg(s).


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## Hangover68

Hi gents, did a search but couldnt find an appropriate answer. I have a 4l ikegger keg thats ready to carbonate using the 16g co2 cartridges, whats the correct procedure for this ?
The how to video's on their site dont really explain it.


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## Grott

Assuming you have a mini regulator, a 16gm cartridge will carbonate about 3/4 of the 4 litre mini therefore you will need two to carbonate and there will be enough left over for dispensing.
Chill keg overnight, connect reg/gas set up and set gauge to dispensing pressure ( say 8 to 10 psi) and put back in the fridge. After a day or so it should be empty and connect the next.
If going to " force carbonate" chill keg, connect reg/gas set up and lay keg on its side ( best to have non return valve to reg). Rock back and forward until you can not hear any more bubbling. Connect next cartridge and put in fridge, should be ok in a few hours.


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## Hangover68

Grott said:


> Assuming you have a mini regulator, a 16gm cartridge will carbonate about 3/4 of the 4 litre mini therefore you will need two to carbonate and there will be enough left over for dispensing.
> Chill keg overnight, connect reg/gas set up and set gauge to dispensing pressure ( say 8 to 10 psi) and put back in the fridge. After a day or so it should be empty and connect the next.
> If going to " force carbonate" chill keg, connect reg/gas set up and lay keg on its side ( best to have non return valve to reg). Rock back and forward until you can not hear any more bubbling. Connect next cartridge and put in fridge, should be ok in a few hours.



Hi Grot, no mini reg just yet, just using the co2 injector and picnic tap.


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## Grott

I take it you have no other co2 source other than the injector. If so you need to give the keg a good blast of gas, chill and keep giving it a blast ( every hour or so) until cartridge empty. Attach a new cartridge and test pour, if still a bit flat keeping doing until you are happy with the pour. When at that stage you only need to give smaller blasts of co2 to dispense. You will get the hang of it.


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## Hangover68

Thanks mate, only need to get thru this fill then i'll move on to a mini reg.


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## Brewnicorn

Hangover68 said:


> Thanks mate, only need to get thru this fill then i'll move on to a mini reg.


Let us know how you go - I am looking at the 4l and 5l mini kegs for parties.


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## Hangover68

Brewnicorn said:


> Let us know how you go - I am looking at the 4l and 5l mini kegs for parties.



Just having my first test now, needs some more carbing but otherwise excellent, flavour of this coopers euro lager and saflager189 yeast is great


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## Hangover68

Just got my mini reg today so will gas up a lager i have in the keg ready to go, also got a tap shank adapter to use untill i finish a fridge tap and font conversion.


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## DrJez

sosman said:


> I just use the gas disconnect and just turn the reg up flat out and shake like buggery. I used to turn the keg on its side but I don't bother anymore.
> 
> Also, I am in the habit of chilling the beer in the fermenter before I transfer to keg. Since I normally keg on the weekend, I start the chilling on say Thu night. I have no problems sampling beer pretty much after shake rattle and roll bizzo although it definitately takes a bit to settle down to the perfect carbonation.



As a first time kegger, might I ask how long you shake for?


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## DrJez

Are we talkin like, the time it takes for a polaroid picture?


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## TheBigD

I cold crash my batches and keg at 4 degrees or less then I take them to my kegerator where my gas is and purge the air out. I disconnect any other kegs, bump up the pressure to about 20psi and rock them standing up right so you can hear the gas mixing in for about two minutes or so and then leave it sit for ten minutes to settle then repeat until it almost right or just a little under carbed. I'll then adjust the pressure down purge any excess pressure, reconnect the other kegs and away I go. I use to rock them on the sides but I find my way much easier. I'm never in to much rush as the keg needs a week or two to clear anyway.


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## devoutharpist

humour this new kegger. I kegged my second beer last night and am hoping to have it carbonated by Saturday week. By the time this is cooled to 6C or so, that gives me about 11-12 days to get it carbonated. BUT, i also have another beer in there that should be at max carbonation. 

I was thinking maybe burst the new keg with 30-40PSI for 24 hours, then purge and set back to serving pressure/"set and forget" pressure? 11-12 days could be cutting it fine to just go set and forget with this keg as well.


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## Timbo

11 or 12 days would just about get you there. If you’re worried, I’d just Ross method for 30 psi at 30 secs. Give it 10 minutes to settle or just pull the prv with a towel covering the little spray that’ll come out. Then give her a quick burp, leave at set and forget.


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## Timbo

That way it’d kick things a long a little, but less likely to overcarb than 40psi for 24hrs...


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## Stokesy

I'm going to try the Ross method tonight on a 50L


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## devoutharpist

i ended up doing 1 24hr at 30psi then an additional 12hr at 30psi. Then back to set and forget pressure. Seems to be pretty close to done now. However, i am serving around 6C though, so i assume i needed more pressure than someone doing it at 2C or similar.


----------



## Stokesy

I normally do 280kpa for 26 hrs @ 1.5 degrees( after I've purged the keg a couple of times) but I often forget to turn the gas off and over carb them, I'm hoping I can get better control of carbing.


----------



## Timbo

Honestly, in an ideal world, we’d all have a decent enough brewing pipeline, enough kegs in cold storage and just set and forget everything. Totally understand why people opt to have huge keezers that fit 10 kegs or a second fridge for carbing/lagering.

I’d always suggest to err on the conservative side with quick carbing and give yourself an extra day. I’ve been bitten a couple of times being to eager, much more of a pain trying to correct an overcarbed beer.

I quick carb slightly under and 24hrs later it’s usually perfect when left at serve pressure.


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## TheSumOfAllBeers

Timbo said:


> I’d always suggest to err on the conservative side with quick carbing and give yourself an extra day. I’ve been bitten a couple of times being to eager, much more of a pain trying to correct an overcarbed beer.



Yeah, I have to wonder, under what circumstances do you really need those kegs at perfect carbonation in < 1-2 hrs.

Who schedules a house party for the same day as kegging day?


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## Timbo

TheSumOfAllBeers said:


> Yeah, I have to wonder, under what circumstances do you really need those kegs at perfect carbonation in < 1-2 hrs.
> 
> Who schedules a house party for the same day as kegging day?


That’s it. I tried and organise my keg setup much like a brew day. Plan in advance! 

Though, it only takes one alcho mate to roll round unannounced and that’s up the proverbial....

I’m always one or two kegs behind where I’d like to be!


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## Stokesy

Well I tried it out, took me 2 go's, 300kpa and rocked for 1 min 20 seconds each time. I kept to the method at the start of the post and then winged it for the 50L.

I did the IPA on the left it's a bit cloudy as it should be after first kegging.

This is my preferred method of carbing now, quick, easy and no more over carbing.

[emoji482][emoji482]


----------

