# Pre-Boiling water?



## Edd

I am thinking about starting to pre-boil my water to rid it of chlorine (has a slight smell of chlorine occasionally). This will also precipitate calcium carbonate out, am I correct in thinking this? My question is, what effect will this have on my water profile that I plug into Bru’n water or BeerSmith? Do I need to capture this or would it be negligible? 

Cheers, Edd


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## MHB

Boiling will reduce Chlorine (lots of easier and cheaper ways) and will drop out what is called temporary hardness, mostly Bicarbonate and Carbonate, but how much you precipitate is entirely dependant on how much was there to start with.
To get rid of excess Carbonate, standard practice is to boil the water (all your water) + 10%, leave to cool overnight and decant/syphon off the top 90%, the precipitate will stay in the bottom of the kettle until you throw it out.

Water so hard that this is really necessary isn't all that common in Australia, first thing to do is to look at your local water analysis, if you don't have carbonate problems, might be worth looking at using Campden (Potassium Metabisulphite) to get rid of the Chlorine.
Mark


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## Edd

Thanks for the advice, I’m all for alternatives to running my water up to boiling twice around.


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## wynnum1

Preboiling water is going to cost time and money and if using tap water chlorine better using a chemical but if your making wine and using tank water would need to boil the good thing about beer making is that boiling sanitize even if using tank water. 
If the tap water is too hard it stuffs up the pipe system plus probably have more contaminates like heavy metal and probably illegal what are the standards for water.


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## Moog

I usually boil my water the night before, to help reduce chlorine, and also remove the oxygen.
I've made a graph of temp loss, so that when I get up at 7:00 I'm right at mash in temp, or close enough to just give it a quick boost. If I didn't do it that way, it takes longer to get the 55 degree water up to temp.


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## Dozer71

Also depends what your water authority uses. If it is chloramine (more stable than chlorine apparently and a lot use it) boiling won't get rid of it. However ascorbic acid (vitamin C) does which is available at the chemist in unflavoured powdered form. I believe the dosage is to match the chloramine content and in our area is 3mg/L.


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## MHB

Metabisulphite is more effective, arguably a blend of Ascorbic Acid and Metabisulphite is even more effective than either one alone.
The big advantage of Potassium Metabisulphite is the tablet form (Campden) containing 0.44g.
So if you wanted remove 3mg/L, always good to ad some extra I would be looking at adding about double 6mg/l
Say 35L at 6mg/L = 210mg, each tablet contains 444mG, so half a tablet would be 222mg - close enough.
Cheap, easy to use and to get a fairly controlled dose at about 5c/brew.
Mark

Oh
I went looking for Ascorbic Acid at a chemist, they had some but it was really expensive, the stuff in the health food section was Sodium Ascorbate, I'm not sure of the Cl scavenging properties of Sodium Ascorbate, But it has a different molecular mass so the dose rate wont be the same just worth being sure what you are getting when you ask for Vitamin C.
M

Just went and read the entry on NaMBS in Wikipedia it says 1 tablet will treat 75L, so about the same 1/2 a tablet in 37.5L...
M


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## BrutusB

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned using a carbon filter for removing chlorine or chloramines from tap water?


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## Dozer71

Chemist warehouse has 100% ascorbic acid for $15 for 125g. Considering the usage is approx 0.2g per batch as above, it is quite cheap as well (around 3c a brew). Do need scales to 0.01g though. Whilst there is a best before, keeping dry and air tight it will last quite some time. Will also look into the campden tablets next for their ease of use..


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## Dozer71

BrutusB said:


> I'm surprised no-one has mentioned using a carbon filter for removing chlorine or chloramines from tap water?


Make sure you have the correct/specialised filter to remove chloramine as ordinary carbon filters don't. Don't know what the cost difference is between the two is though


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## drsmurto

Dozer71 said:


> Make sure you have the correct/specialised filter to remove chloramine as ordinary carbon filters don't. Don't know what the cost difference is between the two is though


Yes they do.


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## fdsaasdf

drsmurto said:


> Yes they do.


Good doctor, thank you in advance for your fine golden ale recipes and advice over the years... My understanding is that not all carbon filters are equal and as such sometimes you will need a second filter to account for flow rate or material and ensure chloramines are removed. 

I can also attest to having noticed a distinct chloramine aroma from one home brewery I visited, where they just ran their water through the cheapest carbon filter they found on ebay, full bore out of the tap.


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## mabrungard

Preboiling can be effective when chlorine is the disinfectant, but is far less effective on chloramines. The effects on calcium carbonate precipitation is directly dependent on the temporary hardness level of that tap water. If the temp hardness is only modest, then the precipitation may be low. The other thing about precipitating temp hardness is that it takes more boiling time than you might expect. While the solubility of CaCO3 is at minimum when the boiling starts, it takes several minutes for that reaction to proceed. All of the texts that I've read, point to a need to boil about 15 minutes to get that reaction to proceed to its fullest extent. That is a lot of wasted time and energy.

The comment above on carbon filters is also important. The treatment capacity of those typical 10 inch carbon housings is limited. To remove chlorine, you need to limit the flowrate through the filter to about 3L per minute. To remove chloramines, that flowrate needs to be less than 0.3L per minute. As you can see, using a filter for chloramines is kind of ridiculous.


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## drsmurto

mabrungard said:


> Preboiling can be effective when chlorine is the disinfectant, but is far less effective on chloramines. The effects on calcium carbonate precipitation is directly dependent on the temporary hardness level of that tap water. If the temp hardness is only modest, then the precipitation may be low. The other thing about precipitating temp hardness is that it takes more boiling time than you might expect. While the solubility of CaCO3 is at minimum when the boiling starts, it takes several minutes for that reaction to proceed. All of the texts that I've read, point to a need to boil about 15 minutes to get that reaction to proceed to its fullest extent. That is a lot of wasted time and energy.
> 
> The comment above on carbon filters is also important. The treatment capacity of those typical 10 inch carbon housings is limited. To remove chlorine, you need to limit the flowrate through the filter to about 3L per minute. To remove chloramines, that flowrate needs to be less than 0.3L per minute. As you can see, using a filter for chloramines is kind of ridiculous.


Citation needed for the flow rates on chlorine and chloramine please.


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## fdsaasdf

mabrungard said:


> The comment above on carbon filters is also important. The treatment capacity of those typical 10 inch carbon housings is limited. To remove chlorine, you need to limit the flowrate through the filter to about 3L per minute. To remove chloramines, that flowrate needs to be less than 0.3L per minute. As you can see, using a filter for chloramines is kind of ridiculous.


Interesting. Those flow rates are far lower than I've heard mentioned activated carbon filters. I was advised by a technician who installs filtration systems (including RO for breweries) that 2L/min for a single activated carbon cartridge or 3L/min for a dual cartridge would remove chloramines to almost the maximum level of effectiveness of any reasonably-priced filter.

I too would be interested in some further literature to support the numbers, as I have no education on anything to do with water composition and the references I've found online have been wildly contradictory.


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## Edd

Some very interesting responses to the thread, thanks all for taking the time to respond. All things considered, including weighing up costs of additional equipment, I believe my best best is to give Campden tablets a whirl. I will use the same recipe as before but this time I am going all in for mash PH adjustment, water adjustment and seeing how that improves the brew. I’m hoping for a big difference, should be interesting!


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## peterlonz

This post has me re-thinking what I had considered established & reliable procedures.
I am on QLD's Gold Coast & the water quality is acknowledged to be very good.
I run all my brewing water through an activated carbon filter, (the typical cylindrical type seen on many sinkbenches) at a modest flow rate of about 3 l/min. My standard practice, & it's claimed to remove other biological stuff also.
I am fairly sure that the chlorine/chloramine removal capacity is not great & I should probably change filters more often than I do.
BTW I gather that now chloramine is used instead of chlorine, for water treatment, because it is overall more effective as a sterilant. Unfortunately it is significantly harder to remove than chlorine.

That said on another note: my wife keeps goldfish & changes the tank water about 80% every 10 days.
If we had no access to collected tank water we would need to do what other fishkeepers do: either prefill drums of tap water & allow 1 week for chlorine to dissipate or treat the tap water with rather expensive additives to remove chlorine/chloramine.
Two important questions arise in my mind:
1) If you have access to good quality water how important in the overall scheme of things is chlorine/chloramine content, given that you can't actually smell it, & to what extent will it influence the taste of your brew?
2) The simple & relatively low cost option by carbon filtration appears now to demand 2 carbon filters, one especially designed to remove chloramine, the other standard chlorine removal. Cost likely to be about $50 per pair. Given that these filters may remain effective for only about 1 year this is adding a few bucks to every brew cost.


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## MHB

Here is a clip from _"A Handbook of Basic Brewing Calculations" S Holle_
Read the paragraph and I think you will get a fair idea what pro brewers think of water.
Mark


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## Matplat

peterlonz said:


> to what extent will it influence the taste of your brew?



It will **** it up royally. Someone more knowledgeable than I can explain the mechanism, but chlorine in your brewing water ends up as chlorophenols in the beer which gives a beautiful taste of band aid, which doesn't dissipate with conditioning.

I run my brisbane water through a two stage filter (although I think the first stage is sand) at a very approximate 2l/min and have never had a chlorophenol problem.


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## scomet

mabrungard said:


> To remove chloramines, that flowrate needs to be less than 0.3L per minute. As you can see, using a filter for chloramines is kind of ridiculous.


The 'Man' has spoken, thank you Martin; the best bit of electronic kit I got was a simple tds inline meter you will see how well your filtering water....


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## Edd

peterlonz said:


> 1) If you have access to good quality water how important in the overall scheme of things is chlorine/chloramine content, given that you can't actually smell it, & to what extent will it influence the taste of your brew?



You can definitely smell if your tap water supply has high levels of chlorine. By no means is it like walking into a public swimming pool but the faint odour will certainly present itself. I find that I notice it if I pour a glass of water (fresh drawn, agitated water), it’s there ever so briefly but if you stick your beak into it and have a big old drag you wouldn’t notice. 
As for the extent it’s affecting my beer, it’s hard to describe. I am getting a pronounced chemical aftertaste to the beer, not harsh or bitter but it lingers and builds up the more you sip, for some reason much more prevalent in beers with high levels of galaxy hops (yeah, figure that one out!). It’s far more notable the warmer the beer, it’s not quite ‘band-aid’ in mine but it’s not something you would want to pay for the privilege of trying. And as @Matplat has mentioned, it doesn’t f##king disappear!


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## Quokka42

If you can smell the chlorine it is probably good news, if it means they are using gaseous chlorine. In this case pre-boiling will remove it, but where I am I find the post-mash boil is enough. Get a water report for where you are - if it is chlorinated with gas, no problem. If the use chloramines you want to use campden tablets, but be aware sulphites cause problems for many with sinusitis and other allergies.


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## MHB

Quokka42 said:


> If you can smell the chlorine it is probably good news, if it means they are using gaseous chlorine. In this case pre-boiling will remove it, but where I am I find the post-mash boil is enough. Get a water report for where you are - if it is chlorinated with gas, no problem. If the use chloramines you want to use campden tablets, but be aware sulphites cause problems for many with sinusitis and other allergies.


I disagree with nearly all of that.
Chlorophenols can form in the mash, quite a lot of the total phenol content of the wort comes from grain husks, mixing hot water and grain provides ideal conditions for their formation. Sure the hotter it is the more Cl is ejected but even a full boil takes a fair while to get hid of chlorine.
Different people have different sensitivity to Chlorophenols some find it off-putting at very low concentrations, others are fairly blind to it, you might not be very sensitive - that doesn't mean there aren't Chlorophenols and that other brewers/consumers wouldn't taste it.
If you use the right amount of Metabisulphite it is consumed it wont be there to offend anyone's sensitivities (a case of 1+1=0). Shure if you add way too much it will cause problems, but the same applies to most of the other ingredients in brewing.
Mark


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## Edd

I’m doing BIAB so usually dealing with about 30 odd litres in total. I saw from your earlier post @MHB that it seems 1/2 tablet will do roughly 38l. For the sake of it, would it be a good idea for me to go 1/3? I’m unsure as to whether it would make much difference for the sake of faffing about trying to split a tablet into 3rds.


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## wynnum1

Vitamin C also to neutralize chlorine how are the campden tablets marked can they be divided into quarters can both be used together Vitamin C and campden tablets or do they react could use both in smaller amounts .


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## MHB

As mentioned earlier a combination of Ascorbic Acid* and Metabisulphite works better than either alone, tho metabisulphite is better than Ascorbic Acid alone.
Ascorbic Acid < Metabisulphite < (Ascorbic Acid + Metabisulphite)

*Just note when people say Vitamin C, they are often referring to an Ascorbic Acid salt (commonly Sodium Ascorbate), a bit like saying Sodium Chloride (common salt) is the same as Hydrochloric Acid (seriously wrong)
It also reacts with other Acids in hot aqueous (wet) conditions, any excess is pretty much decomposed before the end of the boil.
Half a tablet in 30L is less of an overdose than 1/3 of a tablet in 30L, I would stick with the half tablet and let any excess decompose later.
Mark


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## scomet

Edd said:


> By no means is it like walking into a public swimming pool


It is in parts of WA!

I dont get this, put something else in (water) to take something out, change it yes but not remove, it has to be still in there in some form or another?


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## Edd

Remove/change, I think it’s the same thing we are talking about. For me I like to think of it as ‘removing’ the chlorine, for simplicity’s sake. I am a self confessed chemistry duffer so would have no idea how the chlorine is ‘changed’ but it leads to the same outcome in my eyes - better beer!


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## MHB

Well sort of, if you add bleach or Sodium Hydroxide to a Cyanide solution (both things that you don't want in water) you end up with Common Salt (NaCl), Carbon Dioxide, Nitrogen gas and water - all a lot easier to live with than either of the precursors!
For Chlorine removal it goes like this (Sodium and Potassium are pretty interchangeable)





So the residues are a bit of Sulphuric and Hydrochloric Acids and a touch of Sodium/Potassium Sulphate.
All of which (at low concentrations) wont have any negative effect on beer/brewing, in fact will just lower the pH a touch (not enough involved for that to matter), but the Chlorine will.
Mark


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## garage_life

My 2c I use these (2 in series) at 1-3l/m in and although I haven't had the difference in chlorine)chloramine analysed, the beer I've made (with mineral additions to suit style) has been greatly improved over pre boiling straight Brisbane (north west Metro / Stafford) tap water. Also it tastes great and greatly improved as drinking water.

These filters are rated for 1500l life and the most budget option I could find as a reasonably new brewer.
Not sure if this is the actual listing I have but eBay search "caravan water filter" and there's a lot available around the place.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/222284213698


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## Moog

I love this site. So much to learn.


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## fdsaasdf

garage_life said:


> My 2c I use these (2 in series) at 1-3l/m in and although I haven't had the difference in chlorine)chloramine analysed, the beer I've made (with mineral additions to suit style) has been greatly improved over pre boiling straight Brisbane (north west Metro / Stafford) tap water. Also it tastes great and greatly improved as drinking water.
> 
> These filters are rated for 1500l life and the most budget option I could find as a reasonably new brewer.
> Not sure if this is the actual listing I have but eBay search "caravan water filter" and there's a lot available around the place.
> 
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/222284213698


A few years ago I picked up a couple of similar filters in a trade that were unused, however I found I could still notice a slightly chlorine smell from the strike water. Definitely better than Brisbane tap water but not quite what I was after.

In a trade completely unrelated to brewing I picked up an under-bench housing and dual caravan filter housing with a bunch of spare unused cartridges for next to nothing. These seem to have removed the chlorine aroma from our water, though I've not done any water analysis.

The caravan filter is a pair of these, no idea what the retail price is: https://www.purewatersystems.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/PWS_BROCHURE_-CARAVAN_2016-1.pdf


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## scomet

Edd said:


> better beer!


G’day Edd, ‘Better Beer’ on that we totally agree, the only reason Triumph Brewing Exists…. the taste(s) you described I *had* too.

Mark, Thanks for that explanation, I dont really understand it but; you can take 3 fairly nasty chemicals and end up with just salty water?

Tackling ‘water’ was one of my last serious challenges, since I got the ro unit (imho) my beer has improved quantitively, our water in WA sucks (for beer) 

The only thing I want in my beer is what I put in there, TDS meter reading is now 1 from 160+! love it……

ps no chill, over-pitch Notto, RO++, aerate, keep an ‘eye’ on the temp, clean & sanitise like a mf, and now filter (since I retired and have the time) keg and start again :-}


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## rude

scomet said:


> G’day Edd, ‘Better Beer’ on that we totally agree, the only reason Triumph Brewing Exists…. the taste(s) you described I *had* too.
> 
> Mark, Thanks for that explanation, I dont really understand it but; you can take 3 fairly nasty chemicals and end up with just salty water?
> 
> Tackling ‘water’ was one of my last serious challenges, since I got the ro unit (imho) my beer has improved quantitively, our water in WA sucks (for beer)
> 
> The only thing I want in my beer is what I put in there, TDS meter reading is now 1 from 160+! love it……
> 
> ps no chill, over-pitch Notto, RO++, aerate, keep an ‘eye’ on the temp, clean & sanitise like a mf, and now filter (since I retired and have the time) keg and start again :-}



What TDS meter did you purchase & where from
cheers Rude


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## scomet

G'


rude said:


> What TDS meter did you purchase & where from
> cheers Rude


G'day rude, I purchased mine from here when I bought my ro unit, it measures the in and the out https://www.psifilters.com.au $28 ea. click on Chloromine systems and its in the extras, I got the $280 ro model, a bit $ but, I figured it was only the cost of three water tests. Give Tony a call I found them very 'easy' to do business with...


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## rude

Cheers thats where I got my R/O from no worries will have to order
for filters so will include


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## rude

I see they are $44.90 now for the dual one
Still once you have it you got it


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## GregTheBrewer

Guys, let's take a step back here. First of all Edd, as has been said, contact your local water authority to check what type of chlorinating agent they use. If you can't smell it, is more likely chloramine, and boiling won't help. But if it is chlorine, why add campden tabs or do a double boil? When I was doing extract brewing in the early days, I was not aware of the chlorine problem and had some shocking bandaid brews. But remember: chlorophenols are produced when residual chlorine interacts with phenols produced by the _yeast. _Anyone doing BIAB or full mash is boiling the wort anyway, so this will drive off any residual chlorine- no need for extra treatment! By the time you have finished your boil, there should not be any chlorine left to worry about


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## Edd

Greg, thanks for response. You can definitely smell the chlorine, I'm almost certain that its not Chloramine. I have done a bit of research and led to believe that its not used in our drinking water here. (Kinross, WA) 

I'm laying a brew down this weekend and as I am unable to find Campden tablets anywhere in Perth this week (all stock is out through LHB suppliers!) I am going to try a pre-heat and leave water for 24hrs just as an experiment. I am coupling this with tackling my mash PH (with Bru'n water assistance) and adding Gypsum and Epsom to get the flavours to pop a bit more. I'm hoping a combination of these will get rid of the off taste that is certainly apparent in the background of my beer. Looking forward to posting the results in a few weeks time.

I get what is being said about others having different taste thresholds as some friends can taste it in my beer whereas others cannot see the problem. (Could be that they are A. Being too polite or B. They are used to dodgy beer!)


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## MHB

GregTheBrewer said:


> Guys, let's take a step back here. First of all Edd, as has been said, contact your local water authority to check what type of chlorinating agent they use. If you can't smell it, is more likely chloramine, and boiling won't help. But if it is chlorine, why add campden tabs or do a double boil? When I was doing extract brewing in the early days, I was not aware of the chlorine problem and had some shocking bandaid brews. But remember: chlorophenols are produced when residual chlorine interacts with phenols produced by the _yeast. _Anyone doing BIAB or full mash is boiling the wort anyway, so this will drive off any residual chlorine- no need for extra treatment! By the time you have finished your boil, there should not be any chlorine left to worry about



A case of too little knowledge leading to a very wrong answer.
Not all alcohols are made by the yeast, yeast makes a lot of Ethanol, a small amount of Methanol and traces of higher alcohols (Propanol, Butanol...)
Chloro-Phenol (clue in the name) or more properly 2,6-dichlorophenol is a basic Phenol (6 carbon ring with an Alcohol group attached) which has picked up a couple of Halogen atoms (usually Chlorine but could be Bromine, Iodine or Fluorine).
The Phenol can come from Water, Malt or Hops. Most of it is derived from the breakdown of Polyphenols (Tannins) found in Malt Husks and Hops, *NOT* from yeast derived alcohol.
So lots of good reasons to remove Chlorine from brewing water.
Mark


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## MHB

Edd said:


> Greg, thanks for response. You can definitely smell the chlorine, I'm almost certain that its not Chloramine. I have done a bit of research and led to believe that its not used in our drinking water here. (Kinross, WA)
> Snip
> I get what is being said about others having different taste thresholds as some friends can taste it in my beer whereas others cannot see the problem. (Could be that they are A. Being too polite or B. They are used to dodgy beer!)


There is a genetic dispersal, some people are very sensitive to Chlorophenols, some people aren't.
I know I'm not very sensitive, so when I'm judging, if I can detect it other people might think its undrinkable.
Mark
BA Info worth bookmarking


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## louistoo

Edd said:


> You can definitely smell if your tap water supply has high levels of chlorine. By no means is it like walking into a public swimming pool but the faint odour will certainly present itself. I find that I notice it if I pour a glass of water (fresh drawn, agitated water), it’s there ever so briefly but if you stick your beak into it and have a big old drag you wouldn’t notice.
> As for the extent it’s affecting my beer, it’s hard to describe. I am getting a pronounced chemical aftertaste to the beer, not harsh or bitter but it lingers and builds up the more you sip, for some reason much more prevalent in beers with high levels of galaxy hops (yeah, figure that one out!). It’s far more notable the warmer the beer, it’s not quite ‘band-aid’ in mine but it’s not something you would want to pay for the privilege of trying. And as @Matplat has mentioned, it doesn’t f##king disappear!


Strange you should say that about galaxy, at a recent brewclub meet I brought along an amber hopped with half a kilo of wet galaxy (19l) and had a couple of comments about a faint background phenolic thing going on. Hence my renewed interest on chlorine/chloramine removal, my routine involves letting the strike water sit maybe overnight and an amount (variable!) of sodium metabisulphite added. I use Hobart water specifically Moonah.


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## Edd

Really? I wonder if others have had that. Maybe something about the amount of oils in Galaxy that may pronounce the effect of chlorophenol. 
On a side note, I brewed yesterday with pre-boiled water and the added lactic, gypsum and epsoms for a hoppy pale ale. Might be coincidence but the hot break foam was an absolute beast! I had the cat travel basket on standby as it was certainly ready to climb out and head for the door...


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## MHB

Probably has more to do with the hops not being dried out properly, leads to all sorts of strange flavours.

If it's a really foamy boil, its more likely to be a "Blue Mash" name comes from the wort failing the Iodine test (still showing Blue colour) that shows the wort still has unconverted starch. Always makes the wort foam like a daemon.
Mark


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## Edd

I guess that’s a possibility, the krausen is looking good and thick too.


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## ABG

MHB said:


> Metabisulphite is more effective, arguably a blend of Ascorbic Acid and Metabisulphite is even more effective than either one alone.
> The big advantage of Potassium Metabisulphite is the tablet form (Campden) containing 0.44g.
> So if you wanted remove 3mg/L, always good to ad some extra I would be looking at adding about double 6mg/l
> Say 35L at 6mg/L = 210mg, each tablet contains 444mG, so half a tablet would be 222mg - close enough.
> Cheap, easy to use and to get a fairly controlled dose at about 5c/brew.
> Mark
> 
> Oh
> I went looking for Ascorbic Acid at a chemist, they had some but it was really expensive, the stuff in the health food section was Sodium Ascorbate, I'm not sure of the Cl scavenging properties of Sodium Ascorbate, But it has a different molecular mass so the dose rate wont be the same just worth being sure what you are getting when you ask for Vitamin C.
> M
> 
> Just went and read the entry on NaMBS in Wikipedia it says 1 tablet will treat 75L, so about the same 1/2 a tablet in 37.5L...
> M



How much ascorbic acid would you recommend adding in addition to the 1/2 a campden tablet Mark (assuming you're treating 37.5L)? Also, do you filter your water in any way?

Finally for those that do filter their water, how do you adjust your water profile in Brewsmith, or program of your choice (i.e. how do you know how much Ca, Mg, Na, Cl, SO4 & HCO3 your filter is taking out)?


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## goatchop41

ABG said:


> How much ascorbic acid would you recommend adding in addition to the 1/2 a campden tablet Mark (assuming you're treating 37.5L)?



A local pro brewer who claims to have a background in chemistry gave me these numbers for ascorbic acid:
PPM of chloramine X 2.5g per 1000L of water = amount of ascorbic acid that you need to add.
Your local water authority should be able to give you the PPM of chloramine - if it's a range, then just use the highest number. Around my way the highest is usually 3PPM.
So, for 37.5L with a PPM of 3 for chloramine, you would need 3X2.5=7.5g per 1000L, which comes to 0.28g in 37.5L (7.5g / 1000 X 37.5 = 0.28g).


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## goatchop41

You'll definitely need speed dealer scales for measuring it out...ahem, I mean hop and water addition measuring scales


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## ABG

goatchop41 said:


> You'll definitely need speed dealer scales for measuring it out...ahem, I mean hop and water addition measuring scales



Just ordered myself a set. No doubt the drug squad will come busting down my door soon and be very interested in all the white powder I've got lying around.


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