# Sierra Nevada pale ale



## Bloodymint (7/7/13)

Hi

Would like to know if anyone has a recipe for the Sierra Nevada pale ale? Very interested. Great tasting beer. 

Cheers


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## Cocko (7/7/13)

Obviously adjust to batch size.


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## Charst (7/7/13)

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/40797-sierra-nevada-pale-ale-clone/
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/40716-sierra-nevada-pale-ale-clone/


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## Cocko (7/7/13)

Oh, I found the single batch BIAB version - hop additions not time adjusted for no chill:


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## Cocko (7/7/13)

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/27767-snpa-show-us-your-recipe-ag/


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## slash22000 (7/7/13)

SNPA doesn't use Chinook.

19 litres
OG 1.052
FG 1.011
IBU 38

94% 2-row pale malt
6% crystal malt (60 °L)

Magnum hops (60 mins) (5.1 g of 12% alpha acids)
Perle hops (60 mins) (19 g of 7% alpha acids)
Cascade hops (15 mins) (28 g of 5% alpha acids)
Cascade hops (0 mins) (21 g)
Cascade hops (dry hop) (21 g)

US-05 yeast
That is the official clone recipe. Anything wildly different to the above is not authentic to the original beer, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but if you want to make SNPA you use that recipe.


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## Cocko (7/7/13)

Rules seem to be rules.

You use that recipe!


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## Helles (7/7/13)

slash22000 said:


> SNPA doesn't use Chinook.
> 
> 19 litres
> OG 1.052
> ...


If you get enough hop flavour and aroma out of that it will be a miracle 
No where near enough finishing / dry hops


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## slash22000 (7/7/13)

Thought it would be easier to read. **** me, right? When I said "official" I meant that it's the most common recipe, if you Google it that is the recipe that will turn up 9 times out of 10, but I guess we're just busting balls today.

Yeah, it doesn't have a lot of hops. Neither does the original SNPA, it's not "ridiculously explosive" hoppy like some IPA's etc. I've made the recipe I linked many times and it's always been very, very close to the original. If you want to chuck in Chinook etc go ahead, but Sierra Nevada don't.


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## Cocko (7/7/13)

USE IT!!


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## hoppy2B (7/7/13)

Do you brew with all grain Bloodymint or make beer from extracts?


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## Bizier (8/7/13)

It is probably the most cloned beer ever, and a quintessential example of a US pale ale, so it is easy to get info on. The good thing is you have a fair bit of leeway to play around, all the modern hops will provide something pleasant and slightly unique if you want to see what a change of ingredients does.

One approach is to get brewing software like Brewmate (free) or Beersmith and you can aim for the same overall IBUs by using different hops, but keep the weights the same for your late additions and subtract the necessary amount from your early additions to balance. The late additions will contribute tasty oils which give you the delicious citrus etc flavours. The issue is that you do need to have your chilling under control to a degree, or you can utilise techniques like adding well after flameout.

If you are doing kits and bits or extract, you can still employ all of this logic.


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## krausenhaus (8/7/13)

Isn't the Perle meant to be at 30min?


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## bum (8/7/13)

In the commonly accepted version (whatever that might be worth), yeah.

Slash is prone to making decrees. You'll get used to it. I won't but you probably will.


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## krausenhaus (8/7/13)

bum said:


> In the commonly accepted version (whatever that might be worth), yeah.
> 
> Slash is prone to making decrees. You'll get used to it. I won't but you probably will.


I hadn't picked up on that one, but one habit I'm prepared for is for CM2 to drop in here and smudge his iPhone keys about doing a search very soon.

For OP, the original thread with the recipe that's apparently from the brewery itself is http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?t=15532]here[/url].


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## sp0rk (8/7/13)

There was an issue of BYO some time last year with a clone recipe in it
I'll dig it out when i get home this afternoon


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## carniebrew (8/7/13)

From BYO's 2012 edition of "250 Classic Clones":

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale clone
(Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., California)
(5 gallons/19 L, extract with grains)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.011
IBU = 37 SRM = 11 ABV = 5.3%
Ingredients
1.8 lbs. (0.82 kg) Briess Light dried malt extract
4.0 lbs. (1.8 kg) Briess Light liquid malt extract (late addition)
1 lb. 6 oz. (0.62 kg) 2-row pale malt
10 oz. (0.28 kg) crystal malt (60 °L)
2.5 AAU Magnum hops (60 mins) (0.18 oz./5.1 g of 12% alpha acids)
4.8 AAU Perle hops (60 mins) (0. 7 oz./19 g of 7% alpha acids)
5 AAU Cascade hops (15 mins) (1.0 oz./28 g of 5% alpha acids)
0. 75 oz. (21 g) Cascade hops (0 mins)
0. 75 oz. (21 g) whole Cascade hops (dry hop)
1 tsp Irish moss
Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or White Labs WLP001 (California Ale) yeast (1.5 qt./-1.5 L yeast starter)

And I recall from the "Hops" book that SN substitute the bittering hops for SNPA regularly, depending upon availability, quality, etc.

EDIT: Just realised that's the same recipe Slash posted above, his is just a lot neater....


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## chunckious (8/7/13)

krausenhaus said:


> Isn't the Perle meant to be at 30min?


+1?


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## Bloodymint (8/7/13)

At the moment I'm still using kits and extracts but I hopefully will be getting into all grain when I get the equipment.


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## piraterum (8/7/13)

A guy emailed the head brewer at SN a while back and much to his surprise he wrote back with this suggested recipe

I've brewed it a few times and it's spot on if you want to create a faithful clone of SNPA. You could of course throw in more hops if you like it hoppier 

http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?t=15532


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## krausenhaus (8/7/13)

Bloodymint, there is a kit recipe on the last page of the thread that piraterum linked above (that I already linked earlier).


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## ScottyDoesntKnow (17/3/16)

slash22000 said:


> SNPA doesn't use Chinook.
> 
> 
> ```
> ...


I'd like to give this a try for my second brew, just did a kit and bits first and looking for a bit more of a challenge. Can anyone elaborate a bit more on this recipe for a newbie? E.g. The grain amounts and how they are used? I understand the hop schedule and yes I have read several times Sierra Nevada don't dry hop this beer but I'd like to try it. As this post and recipe is a few years old, does using currently harvested hops differ the result much compared to hops harvested years before? Do the alpha acids change much therefore changing the IBU? Thanks


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## Spiesy (17/3/16)

ScottyDoesntKnow said:


> I'd like to give this a try for my second brew, just did a kit and bits first and looking for a bit more of a challenge. Can anyone elaborate a bit more on this recipe for a newbie? E.g. The grain amounts and how they are used? I understand the hop schedule and yes I have read several times Sierra Nevada don't dry hop this beer but I'd like to try it. As this post and recipe is a few years old, does using currently harvested hops differ the result much compared to hops harvested years before? Do the alpha acids change much therefore changing the IBU? Thanks


Do you have brewing software, mate? If so, for the grain - throw in the percentage as grams and then scale the recipe up until you hit OG, based on your batch size. 

Yes, AA% change over years and these will impact your IBU's, so you need to account for that. Some brewing software will factor that in for you, otherwise you can just calculate the IBU you need for each addition by multiplying the AA by the grams.


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## Judanero (17/3/16)

The above is for all grain brewing, it is 94% pale malt and 6% 60L Crystal malt, so you could use 94% Barrett Burston or JW trad ale (local malts) and 6% Medium crystal (Bairds or Simpsons). If you wanted to follow the recipe to the letter use US malts. Mash for an hour at 66 and then add hops as required.

Currently harvested will usually be fresher (if older hops are stored well in vac sealed bags at fridge or less temps they'll be fine) if you use a brewing program you can account for the differences in alpha acids to end up with the same IBUs.

Edit: Beaten to it by Spiesy


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## ScottyDoesntKnow (17/3/16)

Ahh cheers, I have downloaded Ian's spreadsheet and saved it on my laptop but haven't really played around with it yet, will that work? I'm a tight ass so anything free is good!


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## Judanero (17/3/16)

Are you still going to be brewing kits n bits or going all grain?

Not sure about ians spreadsheet, brewer's friend is a free online calculator that can help formulate recipes.

I use beersmith and can't recommend it enough.


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## ScottyDoesntKnow (17/3/16)

Judanero said:


> The above is for all grain brewing, it is 94% pale malt and 6% 60L Crystal malt, so you could use 94% Barrett Burston or JW trad ale (local malts) and 6% Medium crystal (Bairds or Simpsons). If you wanted to follow the recipe to the letter use US malts. Mash for an hour at 66 and then add hops as required.
> 
> Currently harvested will usually be fresher (if older hops are stored well in vac sealed bags at fridge or less temps they'll be fine) if you use a brewing program you can account for the differences in alpha acids to end up with the same IBUs.
> 
> Edit: Beaten to it by Spiesy


Ok cool so I could buy something like this 2 row pale malt http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/30-Fresh-Malt-Malted-Barley-Grain-PER-KG-All-Grain-Brewing-Home-Brew-/281146893364?nav=SEARCH&varId=580213211368 which says it comes crushed/ cracked, put in a stocking with the crystal malt and steep at 66 degrees for an hour? Is it that simple?


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## ScottyDoesntKnow (17/3/16)

Judanero said:


> Are you still going to be brewing kits n bits or going all grain?


This would only be my second brew, haven't even bottled my first yet so who knows how that will turn out haha. I don't have a huge amount to invest on gear just yet so probably just sticking with brews that require a couple of cooking pots and fermenter.


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## Judanero (17/3/16)

Will require a big stocking! Yes it is that simple, that is the premise of BIAB.

Buy a couple metres of swiss voile from spotlight (will be <$20) and you're in business. It is that easy, as long as you maintain the temp for an hour you're all good, remove the bag with the grain in it after the mash (60 mins) and begin the boil.

http://www.brewman.com.au/web/index.asp

If you join brew man you can use brew builder to design the recipe (though the SNPA clone is already in the recipes) order all the grain, hops and yeast and delivered to your door.

This is the second time I've recommended Steve in <10 mins but I really have no affiliation, he just has great customer service.

edit: If you want to get into all grain, BIAB is the cheapest and easiest method. Yes you can do it with a couple stock pots, and you will have greater control over your beer.
Hopefully you have temp control for your fermentation and you will be well and truly in business.


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## ScottyDoesntKnow (17/3/16)

Thanks mate, this forum rocks! I am starting to realise I've probably posted this in the wrong section but I'm a lot clearer on the process now. Yes I have a temp controlled fridge for fermenting so I'm definitely going to have a crack at this. Cheers


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## ScottyDoesntKnow (18/3/16)

So next newb question, this recipe says 19l which im assuming is batch size? How do I work out what the boil size would be? The IBU's line up with a boil size of 23l but the SG and FG are out by a point(probably not a big deal). Would I just mash according with 10.5 litres according to calculator for 4.5kg of grain then top up with tap water to 23litres for the boil? Cheers


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## Rocker1986 (18/3/16)

This is the recipe I've used for brewing clones of SNPA, done it three times now so far and as with piraterum they've all turned out bloody close to the original. I had to convert it to metric and then scale it to my actual batch size of 25 litres, but it is a bloody good recipe and one I definitely recommend. The only difference in my versions is that the base malt is Maris Otter since I don't usually have any other pale ale malt on hand, but it works well anyway.



piraterum said:


> A guy emailed the head brewer at SN a while back and much to his surprise he wrote back with this suggested recipe
> 
> I've brewed it a few times and it's spot on if you want to create a faithful clone of SNPA. You could of course throw in more hops if you like it hoppier
> 
> http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?t=15532


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## Gigantorus (29/3/16)

Bought a couple cans of this from the bottlo on the weekend and can't help think that there is some rye in their recipe. SNPA always seems to have that little peppery rye thing going on.


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## Rocker1986 (29/3/16)

According to their website there isn't, all they use is pale malt and crystal. But who really knows...


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## droid (29/3/16)

Gigantorus said:


> Bought a couple cans of this from the bottlo on the weekend and can't help think that there is some rye in their recipe. SNPA always seems to have that little peppery rye thing going on.


amarillo?


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## Droopy Brew (29/3/16)

ScottyDoesntKnow said:


> So next newb question, this recipe says 19l which im assuming is batch size? How do I work out what the boil size would be? The IBU's line up with a boil size of 23l but the SG and FG are out by a point(probably not a big deal). Would I just mash according with 10.5 litres according to calculator for 4.5kg of grain then top up with tap water to 23litres for the boil? Cheers


Probably best to mash the full volume if you have the equipment.
So if you were after 20L you will need to account for:
-evaporation from the boil- lets say 5L (it will vary on equipment),
-loss to trub which is crap at the bottom of the kettle after the boil- say 2L
-and absorption to grain- work on 1l/kg+ 4.5L
-cooling volume loss of 0.5L ( wort is like a cock, it shrinks when cooled).

So you will need to mash in with 32L to get your 20L batch size.

BIAB is a full volume so you mash with your complete volume of water. So you would need a 40L pot to do this. An electric urn is a great way to do it as your garden variety stove will take for ever to get that much wort to the boil.

Alternatively look at this-

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/60922-2-pot-stovetop-ag-with-lauter/


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