# Copper Coil



## thunderchild (9/3/09)

Hi Group,

I need to source 2 x coils of copper, I need enough to two wortchillers. Is bunnings my cheapest option or is their a better supplier?

Thanks in advance.

TC


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## chappo1970 (9/3/09)

thunderchild said:


> Hi Group,
> 
> I need to source 2 x coils of copper, I need enough to two wortchillers. Is bunnings my cheapest option or is their a better supplier?
> 
> ...



Try PHD at Loganholme and or Labradore and or Tradelink at Underwood or Nerang (I think they are still there)

PHD here

*ARCHERFIELD: *
3/166 Beatty Road ARCHERFIELD QLD 4108 
Phone: (07) 3274 1104 Fax: (07) 3274 1015
Manager: Bradley Stephens 0414 361 334

*LOGANHOLME:* 
1/19 Pintu Drive LOGANHOLME QLD 4129
Phone: (07) 3801 2766 Fax: (07) 3801 2788
Manager: Adam Poole 0434 609 574

*LABRADOR *
2/20 Gibbs Street LABRADOR QLD 4215
Phone: (07) 5563 9244 Fax: (07) 5563 9266
Manager: Steve Goode 0438 786 268




Tradelink have this only - 1800 BATHROOM ( 1800 228 476 ) for your local branch 

They should have everything you want at 1/2 the price of bunyips IMO. Should also have the copper coiled which may help what your trying to make. They will have all your pressure/olive, 90 deg corners fittings as well.BTW you will need on of these a pipe cutter.







it does this very easily...






You can rent one from me for one of your finest beers!


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## JonnyAnchovy (9/3/09)

There was a bloke selling bulk lots of 18M copper coils on ebay very cheaply recently - never got it together to arrange for a bulk buy...... slightly regretting it now.

-J


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## Jakechan (9/3/09)

I very recently bought an 18m coil of 1/2" copper from Binnings for $99. Only used half for the chiller, and this works nicely in the 50 litre kettle.

Cheers,
Jake


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## Wolfy (9/3/09)

It's seems that *Chappo *knows his stuff, so go with what he's said. 

I found that 3/8inch copper pipe was about 1/2 the price at a refrigeration/air cond supply shop than the 1/2 inch stuff at Bunnings, it will also allow me to make a counter-flow chiller much more easily, and yes the pipe cutter will be an invaluable tool, trust me on that - I don't have one yet.


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## Stinky Nightgown (9/3/09)

*In best Yoda voice*
Hmmm....Copper...Yes.....decision make, you must. 
The force you must use.......Avoid Darth Bunnings if you are to succeed 
Try a plumbing supplies store young Beverage Jedi....
:lol:


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## thunderchild (9/3/09)

Chappo said:


> Try PHD at Loganholme and or Labradore and or Tradelink at Underwood or Nerang (I think they are still there)
> 
> PHD here
> 
> ...




You Legend Chappo!

LB


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## thunderchild (9/3/09)

Will be bottling some of finest this evening which should be ready for said barter :chug:


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## chappo1970 (9/3/09)

Wolfy said:


> It's seems that *Chappo *knows his stuff, so go with what he's said.
> 
> I found that 3/8inch copper pipe was about 1/2 the price at a refrigeration/air cond supply shop than the 1/2 inch stuff at Bunnings, it will also allow me to make a counter-flow chiller much more easily, and yes the pipe cutter will be an invaluable tool, trust me on that - I don't have one yet.



I don't know about that Wolfy but ta!
I would do exactly as you have done the 3/4 aka 19mm tube. More surface area and if your using a pond pump to recirculate water it will flow better without adding too much back pressure IMO.



Stinky Nightgown said:


> *In best Yoda voice*
> Hmmm....Copper...Yes.....decision make, you must.
> The force you must use.......Avoid Darth Bunnings if you are to succeed
> Try a plumbing supplies store young Beverage Jedi....



Bwahahaha! Very good! :lol: 

Copper prices (like most) metal prices have been tumbling as of late (60% odd) so your trade centres are much more in tune with that situation than Bunyips who really don't give a flying toss about Traddies (we are too tight to get ripped off) and rather sell to Mum's and Dad's who don't know any better.

EDIT: Give us a call tonight on the mobile and we will organise something to get this sorted for ya mate.


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## technocat (9/3/09)

The hardware stores shoot for big bucks on copper products. Give them a miss and try polyaire for the best prices on copper tubing. 

http//www.polyaire.com.au/


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## afromaiko (9/3/09)

Beernut said:


> The hardware stores shoot for big bucks on copper products. Give them a miss and try polyaire for the best prices on copper tubing.
> 
> http//www.polyaire.com.au/



Direct link: 

http://www.polyaire.com.au/copperprices.htm


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## RdeVjun (10/3/09)

Apologies in advance, this would be getting a bit off topic. Those pipe cutters: 





are just fantastic bits of kit and they also cut stainless pipe with ease as well. I scabbed one from work over the weekend a while back and was outfitting my lager fridge with a bubbler vent as it was a teensy bit cramped (it was only a bar fridge at the time, is bigger now). To my complete surprise and with me for some reason not paying enough attention, it was like the proverbial hot knife and was through the job in a jiffy. Moreso to our wee maltese Munchkin's surprise when it sliced through the pipe quite unexpectedly and, with her hanging around, sniffing underfoot and being the smart, brew- minded and inquisitive type, it dropped fair on her teensy little head. The poor mite thought the sky had fallen on it, you should've heard the noise! :blink: Man, I thought I'd done her in!
But thankfully, to her credit, she still hangs around on brewday and when I'm tinkering, so you really can't fault her enthusiasm or commitment! Good dog, I tell her, bl**dy good dog!
We use the bigger models at work for heavy 2" gal pipe, takes a bit more grunt, but if you're way out in the bush and a hacksaw is the only other cutting option, I know which one I'll be reaching for! Just watch out for the sharp edges when you're done...


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## WilBier (10/3/09)

afromaiko said:


> Direct link:
> 
> http://www.polyaire.com.au/copperprices.htm




The copper prices on this link from polyaire are dam cheap! Well done, good find.

Not sure if you need a trade account to secure them though. Sometimes suppliers can be brutal to walk-in purchasers. 

To be honest, I use a hacksaw on all copper over 1". Little tube cutters are good on 1/2" and 3/4" Remember to use a de-burring tool to rheem out the inside, as the cutting wheel will fold the tube in, and you can loose 25% internal diameter without realising. Or just stick something - like the corner of a pair of shifters in the inside and twist back and forward to open up the inside.

Cheers. 

Wilbier


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## Jakechan (10/3/09)

afromaiko said:


> Direct link:
> 
> http://www.polyaire.com.au/copperprices.htm


Well, it's no cheaper than what I paid at Bunnings a coupla weeks ago.


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## Sully (10/3/09)

Bunnings Morayfield as of the weekend:-

1/2" Soft Drawn Annealed 3m Coil - $15.00
1/2" Soft Drawn Annealed 6m Coil - $27.00
1/2" Hard Drawn 6m Length - $47.00-ish (IIRC - within $5, it was under $50 anyways)

Hope that helps with price comparison.
Cheers
Sully


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## technocat (10/3/09)

WilBier said:


> The copper prices on this link from polyaire are dam cheap! Well done, good find.
> 
> Not sure if you need a trade account to secure them though. Sometimes suppliers can be brutal to walk-in purchasers.
> 
> ...



No need for a trade account prices quoted on their site is just that. Of course if you buy in quantity that would qualify you for a discount. Fifteen metre coil like this 46 bucks ex tax

View attachment 25290


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## afromaiko (10/3/09)

Jakechan said:


> Well, it's no cheaper than what I paid at Bunnings a coupla weeks ago.



Bunnings prices have are becoming more competitive lately. But not that long ago you'd be paying triple what Polyaire charged. I've just walked in and bought the tube over the counter, no trade account required. However, with all these kind of places it's best to know exactly what you want and get to the point rather than asking them a lot of questions. I know that some places can get a bit uncooperative if they think you are going to be using it for illegal DIY work.


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## Swinging Beef (10/3/09)

What do you guys use to put fittings on the end to attach to the water hose?
Are they welded or the ones that use a flared end?
And if flared, how is this done cost effectively?


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## Jakechan (10/3/09)

Swinging Beef said:


> What do you guys use to put fittings on the end to attach to the water hose?
> Are they welded or the ones that use a flared end?
> And if flared, how is this done cost effectively?


A simple compression fitting with reducer then garden tap fitting.


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## Swinging Beef (10/3/09)

Jakechan said:


> A simple compression fitting with reducer then garden tap fitting.


Right, cool.
Do you need to flare the ends to fit them?


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## chappo1970 (10/3/09)

Yep as per Jake compression fittings but I use the copper olive inserts as shown. Plumber mate recommended them as being better to stand up to the heat and for food grade stuffs. Also they pull down for easy cleaning and repair IMO.







And one ready to go. You have to buy the copper inserts/olives separately only $0.50 or so. Not a big outlay in the scheme of things really.


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## Swinging Beef (10/3/09)

Chappo said:


>


Ok, I think I got it now


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## chappo1970 (10/3/09)

SB they are really easy you just need 2 adjustable spanners to tighten them and some plumbers tape to seal the threads. They come in T sections, elbows, terminations basically what ever config you might need. Also the 20mm ball valves screw right in without any need for reducers etc.


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## Swinging Beef (10/3/09)

Chappo said:


> SB they are really easy you just need 2 adjustable spanners to tighten them and some plumbers tape to seal the threads. They come in T sections, elbows, terminations basically what ever config you might need. Also the 20mm ball valves screw right in without any need for reducers etc.


Actually Ive used them before repairing hydraulics on trucks, but a looooong time back.
The brain cells storing this information have long since died... its like bloody deja vu looking at them now.
I had forgotten entirely they existed!
Damn rectal alien probe mind erasing devices! <_<


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## chappo1970 (10/3/09)

Swinging Beef said:


> ...brain cells storing this information have long since died... its like bloody deja vu looking at them now.
> I had forgotten entirely they existed!
> Damn rectal alien probe mind erasing devices! <_<



:lol:

EDIT: SB sorry if I was tad overly condecending you just never know what skills/experence ppl have on these forums.


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## reviled (10/3/09)

Chappo said:


> :lol:
> 
> EDIT: SB sorry if I was tad overly condecending you just never know what skills/experence ppl have on these forums.



 What are you trying to say Chappo? <_<


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## chappo1970 (10/3/09)

I don't know... really? I don't? :unsure:


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## reviled (10/3/09)

Chappo said:


> I don't know... really? I don't? :unsure:



:lol: haha awesome


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## afromaiko (10/3/09)

This is what I used. It's a flare fitting from Reece with a hose connector from Bunnings screwed into it. Very neat.

2 x Reece part # 604060 - Comp Union Flared 6fi x 10c = $12.38 ea.

This is for a 3/8" pipe.

Then take these to Bunnings and look in the hose connector section, you'll find the other parts. Use brass ones, not plastic. About $2 ea.

A good flare tool will make things easy. I stuffed around for ages trying to flare the pipe with screwdrivers etc and then gave in and bought one.


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## Swinging Beef (10/3/09)

Chappo said:


> SB sorry if I was tad overly condecending you just never know what skills/experence ppl have on these forums.


Not at all... i came here looking for advice... happy to be taught how to suck eggs :icon_cheers:


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## rude (10/3/09)

Another question sorry crew do you use the soft or hard copper?
Do you just bring the other end up the middle or weld a elbow on & bring it up that way?cheers


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## chappo1970 (10/3/09)

rude said:


> Another question sorry crew do you use the soft or hard copper?
> Do you just bring the other end up the middle or weld a elbow on & bring it up that way?cheers



Ok soft and hard refer to the method that the tube is formed or drawn from a die. I think what your asking is you want annealed copper, it's easier to work with bend etc. Err? I not sure what your asking in regards to welding/brazing elbow but compression/olive fittings require no brazing at all and seal incredibly well in any domestic application IMO.

Give more information on what your trying to do I will see if I can help ya!


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## Jakechan (10/3/09)

rude said:


> Another question sorry crew do you use the soft or hard copper?
> Do you just bring the other end up the middle or weld a elbow on & bring it up that way?cheers


Yep, just bring it up and out the middle. Best not to have any joins inside the kettle at all..


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## shmick (11/3/09)

afromaiko said:


> This is what I used. It's a flare fitting from Reece with a hose connector from Bunnings screwed into it. Very neat.
> 
> 2 x Reece part # 604060 - Comp Union Flared 6fi x 10c = $12.38 ea.
> 
> ...



Looks expensive

You could just get a double ended (click on type) hose joiner for $2, hacksaw it in half and silver solder the pieces directly on the ends of the pipe.

Easier to clean too


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## WilBier (11/3/09)

Chappo said:


> SB they are really easy you just need 2 adjustable spanners to tighten them and some plumbers tape to seal the threads. They come in T sections, elbows, terminations basically what ever config you might need. Also the 20mm ball valves screw right in without any need for reducers etc.




With compression fittings, you don't use any tape. If it is leaking, it hasn't been done up tight enough.

When you do it up properly, the olive will sort of bind with the tube. The nut will back off, but the olive will be firmly squeezed onto the tube and you can still undo the fitting


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## chappo1970 (11/3/09)

WilBier said:


> With compression fittings, you don't use any tape. If it is leaking, it hasn't been done up tight enough.
> 
> When you do it up properly, the olive will sort of bind with the tube. The nut will back off, but the olive will be firmly squeezed onto the tube and you can still undo the fitting



Meh! 
Your right but just some extra insurance which usually floats my boat. It's easily removed when you do a major clean and tidy. Mainly use the tape when connecting the ball valves to the threaded rod thru the manifold as shown.


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## thunderchild (11/3/09)

Now here is a thought for dicussion, when I initially posted this I was thinking about a dual system with one coil running through ice water and then speed chilling the wort.

I am now thinking that by the time I buy two coils and associated bits, garden hose etc, Craft brewers plate chiller @ $129.50 is startng to look good.

Thoughts??


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## chappo1970 (11/3/09)

thunderchild said:


> Now here is a thought for dicussion, when I initially posted this I was thinking about a dual system with one coil running through ice water and then speed chilling the wort.
> 
> I am now thinking that by the time I buy two coils and associated bits, garden hose etc, Craft brewers plate chiller @ $129.50 is startng to look good.
> 
> Thoughts??



Plate chiller hands down NO contest. I got one myself and I do my hair in it's shineyness every morning. Seriously it's simple and no fuss, I can drop 22lt of 98C wort to 27C (tap water temp) in less than 15 mins. I just have a patience issue with getting the wort to 18C and or 10C so I can pitch.


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## KHB (11/3/09)

Chappo said:


> Plate chiller hands down NO contest. I got one myself and I do my hair in it's shineyness every morning. Seriously it's simple and no fuss, I can drop 22lt of 98C wort to 27C (tap water temp) in less than 15 mins. I just have a patience issue with getting the wort to 18C and or 10C so I can pitch.




I use a plate chiller and can get 40lt work down to 30degrees in bout half hour. I then run through my HERMS which is filled with ice water and drop to 15.c. Works great

KHB


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## Stinky Nightgown (11/3/09)

*puts on yoda voice again*
Hmmm.....the force....yes....strong in this one it is......
use the chiller plate O Beer One Kenobi......
and you can defeat the evil forces of Mega swill
:icon_cheers:


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## thunderchild (11/3/09)

Mmmmm Thankyou Master. Do this I will. Drink Beer I must.


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## cubbie (11/3/09)

Gee I just used a couple of hose clamps to connect to my chiller. You could probably even get away with a cable tie.


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## chappo1970 (11/3/09)

KHB said:


> I use a plate chiller and can get 40lt work down to 30degrees in bout half hour. I then run through my HERMS which is filled with ice water and drop to 15.c. Works great
> 
> KHB



So KHB just so i understand your technique (i know I am thick) you run your wort thru the chiller twice?Once with tap water and then with chilled water from your HERMS? I gather your using the HERMS as the resorviour for the plate chiller? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?


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## KHB (11/3/09)

Chappo said:


> So KHB just so i understand your technique (i know I am thick) you run your wort thru the chiller twice?Once with tap water and then with chilled water from your HERMS? I gather your using the HERMS as the resorviour for the plate chiller? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?




Nah i run it through my cileer than it goes through the HERMS coil which has the ice water in it then onto fermenter.

KHB


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## chappo1970 (11/3/09)

WOOF! WOOF! :lol: 

KISS Method: Keep It Simple Stupid! Got it ta KHB....


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## redbeard (4/12/09)

For those peeps in Syd, the bunnerz in Norwest still have some 6m 1/2" china copper coils for $15 ....


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## JonnyAnchovy (4/12/09)

redbeard said:


> For those peeps in Syd, the bunnerz in Norwest still have some 6m 1/2" china copper coils for $15 ....


Sounds like a very good deal- might finally get around to making that pre-chiller...


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## lespaul (10/11/10)

just called polyaire and they seem to be out of stock temporarily (they still quote 47.27 +GST).
Called Tradelink and they want $174 for 18m copper coil
plumbers supplies want $95
bunnings still $99
anyone else got any suggestions?


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## husky (10/11/10)

lespaul said:


> just called polyaire and they seem to be out of stock temporarily (they still quote 47.27 +GST).
> Called Tradelink and they want $174 for 18m copper coil
> plumbers supplies want $95
> bunnings still $99
> anyone else got any suggestions?



I tried reece yesterday and they want $154. waiting for my brother to get pricing from his aircon supplier today.


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## [email protected] (10/11/10)

Bunnings randwick had 3m lengths for $15, so for 18m this ends up $90, but then you have to deal with connecting them all.


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## Supra-Jim (10/11/10)

I might have about 7-8m of an 18m roll of 1/2" available fairly shortly, just finishing off my Herms heat exchanger and then it's good to go.

Cheers SJ


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## berto (10/11/10)

I got 15m of 3/8 coil from polyaire for about $35 2 weeks ago.

The whole thing fis perfect in a 25L brew and drops the temp down to pitching in about 20 minutes with a bit of stirring. 

It was another $20 for fittings so I can snap my garden hoses straight on. Alternatively I could probably have just clamped them on with a worm clamp to save some $$.


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## sav (10/11/10)

lespaul said:


> just called polyaire and they seem to be out of stock temporarily (they still quote 47.27 +GST).
> Called Tradelink and they want $174 for 18m copper coil
> plumbers supplies want $95
> bunnings still $99
> anyone else got any suggestions?




I have one mate finished havent used it I got my plate chiller pitty your not in QLD mate


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## lespaul (11/11/10)

cheers for the replies!!!
spoke to polyaire and they have ordered more in for me, but they dont stock the hard drawn. So my mate whos a plumber is just going to borrow some from work...
already have all the elbows and compression fittings from bunnings, so should be able to nock it up next weekend!
Cheers!


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## brocky_555 (11/11/10)

i made a chilling coil for my set up i found that anealled copper works better because it is easier to handle, as it is pre softened. I just used a piece of 200mm electrical condiut ( not everybody will have access to this i know ) to form the shape and just silver soldered it together.


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## asis (11/11/10)

brocky_555 said:


> i made a chilling coil for my set up i found that anealled copper works better because it is easier to handle, as it is pre softened. I just used a piece of 200mm electrical condiut ( not everybody will have access to this i know ) to form the shape and just silver soldered it together.



A corny keg is 220mm or there abouts and works equally well. (I guess not everyone will have one of those either)


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