# Perlick 545SS Stainless Steel Flow Control Taps - Problems & Solut



## DJ_L3ThAL (20/5/14)

Hey guys,

In light of the bulk buy and recent influx of these taps. Many have indicated isues with the force required to move the flow control lever arm. I have sent the below to Perlick USA and await a reply:



> Hi, Recently some friends of mine and myself purchased some 545SS flow control taps in Australia. All of us are concerned at the force required to move the flow control lever.
> 
> I have removed the bonnet over the flow control level and applied food grade lubricant to the seal but this does not seem to help. You can hear the seal squeaking as you turn the flow control level as if it has too much pressure on it from the bonnet. Loosening the bonnet over the flow control lever helps but it leaves an obvious gap and eventually fouls the flow control lever arm. I am concerned loosening this will prevent maintaining a good seal on this side lever also.
> 
> ...



In addition to the above which I hope get's addressed adequately by Perlick, please post any other concerns or problems you have with these taps whether it be general maintenance, cleaning etc.

Personally apart from the above problem, I think they are extremely well built and easy to take apart (I cleaned mine apart and lubricated the o-ring and re-assembled sanitized).

Cheers! :beer:


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## professional_drunk (20/5/14)

I bought 4 of these. None exhibit these issues.

How often should you be taking these apart for clean and lube? Currently I've just been rotating some soda water through the taps.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (20/5/14)

Where did you buy from and when if you don't mind me asking?


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## professional_drunk (20/5/14)

barwon homebrewing. 18 feb.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (20/5/14)

Right so part of the bulk buy or would have been same batch anyway... so could you turn your floe control lever with your pinky finger easily?


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## professional_drunk (20/5/14)

Got it before the bulk buy. It's a bit firm for a pinky. Thumb and index finger is ok. No squeaks. Come to think about it, my perception about how difficult it is to move the lever maybe different as I've never used the older perlicks before.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (20/5/14)

Spoke to Nibbo from Barwon Homebrewing today and he whipped up the attached instructions on how to remove the flow control shaft. I lubed up the two o-rings and now the tap flow control glides very smooth and is firm (not too hard and jerky to move as it was before). Problem solved, thanks Nibbo! 

View attachment Perlick 545SS Flow Control Removal.pdf


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## Wilkensone (20/5/14)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> Spoke to Nibbo from Barwon Homebrewing today and he whipped up the attached instructions on how to remove the flow control shaft. I lubed up the two o-rings and now the tap flow control glides very smooth and is firm (not too hard and jerky to move as it was before). Problem solved, thanks Nibbo!


I know I loosened the backing nut to make it a bit smoother, now that you have lubed it up is this tightened all the way?

Also thanks for taking it upon yourself to play Sherlock for us!


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## DJ_L3ThAL (20/5/14)

Yeah mate tightened right up and its HEAPS better no stress or strain required to operate the lever. Nibbo did say loosening that backing nut is ok and it will seal if need be. But mine are tightened right up and feel normal to operate!

Keeping my levers facing backwards to the norm to keep lever clear of the glass when pouring


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## Wilkensone (20/5/14)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> Yeah mate tightened right up and its HEAPS better no stress or strain required to operate the lever. Nibbo did say loosening that backing nut is ok and it will seal if need be. But mine are tightened right up and feel normal to operate!
> 
> Keeping my levers facing backwards to the norm to keep lever clear of the glass when pouring


Great thanks for that, going to have to get some lube! 

Stupid question but am I going to get covered in beer thats in the hose when taking the tap off?


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## DJ_L3ThAL (21/5/14)

Yes if the line is under pressure be careful it will spray beer. Theoretically if you hold the flow control position shut it shouldn't but with the lever out it moves very easily so I'd recommend taking disconnect off the kegs and opening tap to discharge line pressure and then do your work...


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## Donske (21/5/14)

Wilkensone said:


> Great thanks for that, going to have to get some lube!
> 
> Stupid question but am I going to get covered in beer thats in the hose when taking the tap off?


You shouldn't, what I tend to do is disconnect from the keg, open the tap and then depress the shaft in the quick disconnect, this will let most of the beer drain out of the line and avoid too much mess when pulling taps apart.


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## Nibbo (21/5/14)

Wilkensone said:


> Stupid question but am I going to get covered in beer thats in the hose when taking the tap off?


Make sure you disconnect from the keg and then bleed the line through the tap to take off any pressure in the line before taking out the flow control mech. That would be messy and a waste of beer if you didn't.


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## Beerisyummy (23/5/14)

My new taps have emptied all my kegs. Every time I walked past them the beer would leak out and subsequently vanish.
The problem is they work too well!

Nice tip about the flow control levers. Mine were seriously tight when I received them.
It surprises me that they don't lubricate the seals during assembly.


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## Beerisyummy (27/5/14)

Now it turns out I do actually have a complaint. It may not be sensible, but I tried turning the lever into the backwards facing position on my taps, and it turns out they seem to snag a little on the return run.

Does anybody else feel this in the flow control lever?

Note:
This is not a defect as I'm pretty sure they are meant to face forward.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (27/5/14)

Did you lube the orings?


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## Beerisyummy (27/5/14)

Yes. I did the whole disassemble and lube thing.

It's more of a mechanical "snag". It occurs just after you take the control lever out of the fully closed position from the backwards orientation.
Obviously, I'm talking about the lever facing backwards and not myself. Not tonight at least!


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## DJ_L3ThAL (27/5/14)

Hmm strange, so its doing the same thing on both? If the cap over the control lever is not tight enough it does foul the lever are you sure its not that simple? Does putting it back to other orientation fix it?


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## Beerisyummy (28/5/14)

Yep. It does the same thing on both.
It only does it with the control lever pointing backwards and the caps definitely aren't fouling it.

I'll have another play with the taps later and suss things out.


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## mr_wibble (28/5/14)

Beerisyummy said:


> My new taps have emptied all my kegs. Every time I walked past them the beer would leak out and subsequently vanish.
> The problem is they work too well!


The problem is with your drinking hardware - it's probably too big.
Try using a smaller tasting glass.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (28/5/14)

Beerisyummy said:


> Yep. It does the same thing on both.
> It only does it with the control lever pointing backwards and the caps definitely aren't fouling it.
> 
> I'll have another play with the taps later and suss things out.


Hmm mine aren't live yet so ill turn mine around and see if any easier to operate to see if perhaps they are not designed to be turned backwards!


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## DJ_L3ThAL (28/5/14)

I couldn't tell a difference with the flow lever orientation either way around.

I also pulled out the thicker o-ring inside the tap body past the flow control lever's two smaller o-rings. That being lubed up made an even bigger difference and they now glide very easily and smooth.


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## Beerisyummy (1/6/14)

Sorry for not getting back on this. I'll need to check later in the week as work getting in the way of beer.

Now without having a go at anyone, I bought both of mine from Cheeky Peak. The service was quick and I have not contacted them about any issues. I'm a happy customer who would use them again at this stage.
Notes:
- One of the taps was slightly damaged on the front of the outlet. How fine a grit do I need to get the polish back after dressing? This could be useful for anyone who drops a tap in the future and is a big advantage over the CP tap.
- The taps that I ordered had the long stainless shank fitted and one of them had a defect in the star pattern where the tap and shank meet. I managed to get things working in the end. The Perlick stainless cut the shank without much wear on the perlick side of things.

I'll need to check the movement thing, but I'm pretty sure you can move the FC to both positions while there is no pressure in the lines. Once the taps are loaded there is only one choice available. I'll need to check this of course.


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## Batz (1/6/14)

Very happy with my 545PC's. Have been for several years now. 

Batz


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## Beerisyummy (1/6/14)

Batz said:


> Very happy with my 545PC's. Have been for several years now.
> 
> Batz


I wasn't having a go at the 545PCs. I just happened to come into the tap market while the SS version was coming into play.
Would you pick the SS over PC if it was available?

My comment about the SS version relates to the ability to repair the SS without the problems of replating.


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## Batz (1/6/14)

Beerisyummy said:


> I wasn't having a go at the 545PCs. I just happened to come into the tap market while the SS version was coming into play.
> Would you pick the SS over PC if it was available?
> 
> My comment about the SS version relates to the ability to repair the SS without the problems of replating.


I know you weren't, just saying I'm still happy with my 545PC's.

Nothing more than that.


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## Beerisyummy (1/6/14)

Then at least answer the question Batz.

TBH, I nearly bought the plated versions, but I only needed a couple so the cost difference was easy absorb.


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## Batz (1/6/14)

Beerisyummy said:


> Then at least answer the question Batz.
> 
> TBH, I nearly bought the plated versions, but I only needed a couple so the cost difference was easy absorb.





> Would you pick the SS over PC if it was available?


No, I have had a lot of taps over my 25 years of kegging, I don't believe stainless make a scrap of difference. Yes I have had both over the years.

But hey all too there own, we really do all brew and serve our beers to our own liking.

Batz


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## Beerisyummy (1/6/14)

Fair play mate. Thanks for the input from several years of experience with different taps.

I'm amazed at how much restriction you can place on a highly carbed beer with the perlicks. They work better than I expected.

Have you ever had to fix any scuffs on taps over the years? It's poor handling of the taps, I know, but do you have any advice in this regard?


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## StalkingWilbur (1/6/14)

Mr Wibble said:


> The problem is with your drinking hardware - it's probably too big.
> Try using a smaller tasting glass.


Worst piece of advice I've seen given on this site.


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## mckenry (1/6/14)

StalkingWilbur said:


> Worst piece of advice I've seen given on this site.


Haha


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## Beerisyummy (1/6/14)

StalkingWilbur said:


> Worst piece of advice I've seen given on this site.


And right now I'm wishing I took a photo of the pluto gun in action on Australia day. Think no drinking hardware at all. Just a bunch of 20 somethings in bikinis getting their fill by mouth courtesy of the boat's captain.
A mate built a couch that fit two kegs and ice just for the occasion. Funny stuff.

IMHO. You need a decent size glass appropriate for the style, or nothing at all.
I am yet to do the Oral B ad trick with the new taps, although I'd imagine the flow control would come in handy.
I have been using the double glazed pyrex tea cups for samples. Really good for keeping a small serve cold.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (1/6/14)

Interesting that leaving my taps for a few days now the flow control is very tight to move again even with the lube. I use the Lubri-FIlm Plus, but a bit of searching does not show whether this is suitable for moving parts... is the Paraliq stuff from craft brewer much better over time and on moving parts (ie. would keep flow control running smooth without needing to re-apply every few days)?


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## JaseH (2/6/14)

Having to keep taps lubed to get free movement doesn't sound right to me - sounds like a band-aid fix to a manufacturing tolerance problem? Maybe they will free up over time once they wear in a bit? As has been mentioned this isn't an issue with the PC's, I've never lubed mine, they've had really nice action from the day I installed them. I'd assume the SS versions 'should' theoretically be the same?


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## DJ_L3ThAL (2/6/14)

Hmm, im waiting on my original enquiry to Perlick so perhaps they will elaborate for us if they reply...


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## Beerisyummy (9/6/14)

Frothie said:


> Having to keep taps lubed to get free movement doesn't sound right to me - sounds like a band-aid fix to a manufacturing tolerance problem? Maybe they will free up over time once they wear in a bit? As has been mentioned this isn't an issue with the PC's, I've never lubed mine, they've had really nice action from the day I installed them. I'd assume the SS versions 'should' theoretically be the same?


So, I finally got around to testing the taps again. The slight catch on the flow control is real if it's reversed. I don't notice it when the tap is connected and there's pressure in the line.
It's also possible that the tester became intoxicated during the test and the results are flawed.

I agree with Frothie about the taps being good to go from day one. Any stiffness is a design issue.
One thing that does come to mind is the difference between plating and solid stainless. Anyone who's played around with metals and different platings should understand the different properties from each type. Friction plays a massive part along with softness and malleability.
My take on the taps is that they are probably exactly the same as the PC version. The stainless is less slippery than the PC version and you'll just have to wait for the seals to bed in.

In summary:
- Constantly lubricate the taps with plenty of beer and get those seals bedded in.
- Don't be shy with the FC levers. Treat them like they're advertised and report back if the seals fail.

PS.
I've noticed that these taps work quite well by creating a Guinness style head if you are force carbing and taking samples with the FC lever throttled way back. It's probably nothing, but I'm toying with the idea of a nitrogen mix tap on my bar project.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (18/6/14)

Got a response from Perlick saying there may be burrs in the flow control assembly, which suggests the flow control levers should operate easily and smoothly. They asked for my address to send replacements out but ive replied explaining I am in the US so will update when I hear back. Finally seems to be evident that it was a faulty batch.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (9/7/14)

Well replacement 650SS taps arrived this week and they are so smooth to operate the lever even before assembly! Looking forward to installing them and pouring some beer/playing with the flow control.

The knurled (not slotted) cap on the side can be done up normally without the need for backing it off with no impact on flow control level resistance.

Big thumbs up to Perlick for the customer support and standing by their products, even if it was giving me a newer model


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## Camo6 (10/7/14)

Awesome! Now can I have your old ones?


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## Eagleburger (10/7/14)

Dam. mine have been superceded before I have even used them.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (10/7/14)

Camo6 said:


> Awesome! Now can I have your old ones?


Haha! Well I am thinking of going 4 tap, two with flow control and two without! Selfish, I know ;-)


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## Tahoose (10/7/14)

I haven't really followed this thread but I also have found problems with the flow control action.. It is quite stiff and almost feels like it's grinding when I try to turn the flow control lever...

I'll have a read through later when I get a chance.


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## Camo6 (10/7/14)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> Haha! Well I am thinking of going 4 tap, two with flow control and two without! Selfish, I know ;-)


Do it! Two is never enough (even though I struggle to keep one flowing). That's fair decent of them not to request the faulty ones back first before replacing. Kudos to Perlick.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (10/7/14)

From the limited info about the problem I got they said it's machine burrs inside. So when I get the time I may open them up completely and have a feel to see if it can be repaired. Otherwise they still pour beer fine just best not to operate the flow control lever.

Yes the theory of 4 taps sounds good but your right, in practice must be tough!!!!

Btw I thought you had 4 perlicks camo? ;-)


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## Camo6 (10/7/14)

Alas only the PC version. Nothing wrong with the finish on them though. I do find they tend to 'funnel' on first use but a quick on off action gets them pouring a solid stream again. Does anyone else find this from any of the Perlick range?


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## DJ_L3ThAL (10/7/14)

By funnel do you mean pour through sling one half of the tap outlet wall? If so mine do it if you have dialled the flow control back a bit. Not sure about the 650ss yet though


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## Camo6 (10/7/14)

Tunnel is probably a better explanation. Like the barrel of a wave - hollow on the inside. Closing and reopening usually solves problem.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (10/7/14)

Hmm nah haven't noticed that. Have you taken them apart and soaked/cleaned all seals, lubed and assembled? Sounds like the front o ring is pinched cos it sticks to the ball and when you open the ball drags the oring with it slightly?


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## tiprya (10/7/14)

I just got 3x 545SS and the flow control levers are epically stiff and hard to operate.

Did you email perlick directly, or talk to your Aus supplier?


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## DJ_L3ThAL (10/7/14)

Emailed Perlick directly through their US tech support enquiry site. It only took so long as they waited for the release of the 650ss to replace them with.

I'd advise to talk to your supplier first though, as I bought mine in a Bulk Buy so the circumstances were a little different. If you bought them straight out as a single purchase from an Aus. supplier, I'd say return to them to discuss, would probably be less hassle.


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## tiprya (10/7/14)

Thanks mate, i'll do that.


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## Batz (10/7/14)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> If you bought them straight out as a single purchase from an Aus. supplier, I'd say return to them to discuss, would probably be less hassle.


Bet your on the money there. :beerbang: 
Batz


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## Camo6 (11/7/14)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> Hmm nah haven't noticed that. Have you taken them apart and soaked/cleaned all seals, lubed and assembled? Sounds like the front o ring is pinched cos it sticks to the ball and when you open the ball drags the oring with it slightly?


Cheers Nathan that's probably what they need. And it aah, wouldn't be the first time they've aah, been pulled apart and cleaned. (Looks away sheepishly)


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## Beerisyummy (11/7/14)

What is the difference between the 650s and the 545s?


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## DJ_L3ThAL (11/7/14)

650ss compared to my 545ss is the flow control lever works as intended and smoothly with normal force. They are also a bit shorter on the spout, the flow control lever cap is slotted not knurled and the perlick P is the new style. Otherwise they are similar.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (11/7/14)

Ill take a side by side photo tonight...


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## lobo1 (22/7/14)

Djl3thal, do you have the photo? I am interested in why the 650ss isnt availablein australia yet, im planning a keezer build and am looking to buy them, might have to buy them from o/s.

Cheers,

Lobo


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## Westo (22/7/14)

i have this tap and had a hell of a time with pouring issues after trying everything i could think of i ended up removing the flow control and ever since it pours perfectly... lesson learnt there i will never buy another flow control tap


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## Eagleburger (22/7/14)

I have two newly installed. I first did a clean and light grease which freed up the levers. the flow control levers work easy after a keg through each. just checked on my last pour.Interestingly, they come box-less. Then I recently made another order of different items which were packed in a 525SS labelled box.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (22/7/14)

650ss is on the left


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## leighaus (24/7/14)

giddy up. good time to be buying.. i was about to get the CP flow controls and whilst yagoogling around i noticed the 650's... Gonna take the drop on a pair from O/S... Best i've found at current is;

https://www.homebrewing.org with 2 650's + shipping coming to $188... anyone found better?


edit--- bought them anyway.. hope the boss doesnt murder me in my sleep now.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (24/7/14)

I'm selling the original 545ss if anyones interested also. Check out the for sale forum. 

As for fhe 650ss I havent seen them in Oz just yet.


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## Camo6 (24/7/14)

DJ_L3ThAL said:


> I'm selling the original 545ss if anyones interested also. Check out the for sale forum.
> 
> As for fhe 650ss I havent seen them in Oz just yet.


What happened to four taps? Buk buk bakurk!


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## DJ_L3ThAL (24/7/14)

Haha I know I know!!! Few things led me to the decision. Mainly needing top fridge real estate to carbonate kegs for my mates and our camping trips so can put a bottom shelf in kegerator to allow more than 3 kegs at a time... first world problems...


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## leighaus (24/7/14)

well there will be another set of 650s in aus very shortly  Ill post up some pics, but from what i've heard they are to die for


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## DJ_L3ThAL (24/7/14)

Yea mate they work beautifully!


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## JDW81 (17/12/16)

Finally about to hook up my Perlick FC taps and will be running 5mm line to them (bloody work has been getting in the way).

I know that the idea with flow control taps the line length is less important, however was wondering what beer line length people have had the most success with.

Am carbonating slowing at serving pressure, aiming for about 2.5 volumes. 

I was thinking of running about 1m of line between each keg and tap, is this enough length, or should I run a slightly longer beer line just to be sure?

Cheers to all, and I hope the silly season is relaxing and more importantly safe for all (especially those travelling).

JD


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## Tahoose (17/12/16)

That's the beauty of these taps it takes the line length pretty much out of the equation. 

I run roughly 1.1m, your 1m will be fine.


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## mstrelan (17/12/16)

Shorter is probably better. Less beer not in the keg between pours.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (17/12/16)

Yeah for those (like me) who don't have daily or even for some taps weekly pours through then the beer in the line does go stale and 'eggy', so shorter the better and the flow control works perfectly.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (17/12/16)

Yeah for those (like me) who don't have daily or even for some taps weekly pours through then the beer in the line does go stale and 'eggy', so shorter the better and the flow control works perfectly.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (17/12/16)

Have had a problem with a slow drip drip drip on mine. Have finally got around to pulling them off with 3 empty kegs and buying some lube. 

Any reports of the same sort of thing? Hoping this fixes it.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (17/12/16)

Get Skerra lube from Natuonal Homebrew. It goes VERY far. Amazing what lube does for o-rings...


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## Batz (17/12/16)

Lord Raja Goomba I said:


> Have had a problem with a slow drip drip drip on mine. Have finally got around to pulling them off with 3 empty kegs and buying some lube.
> 
> Any reports of the same sort of thing? Hoping this fixes it.


I had one of my five taps leak after 3-4 years. Overhaul kits are cheap so I re-kitted the whole five. Easy to do and use a little keg lube.
Have heard you can just rotate the main sealing 'o' ring and lube again and all's good.


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## DJ_L3ThAL (17/12/16)

If there's no dents, nicks or scratches in an o-ring it's ok to use.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (20/12/16)

Have done the rotation of the o-ring within the tap. Also lubed up all the bits that would cause the issue.

As it stands, if I use the FC lever, I can get it to an almost no-existent leak. Cannot use the main handle at all.

I'm thinking that I'll look at a refurb kit. Given one of the taps is cross threaded on the top, if it is too expensive (please provide linky poos, someone, please?), I'll grab a couple of intertap SS ones, which the one I have, has been awesome.


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