# Food-safe Sealant?



## glitchpop (10/3/08)

Hi all. I have learnt so much from here. I don't post much because I tend to UTSE and most of the time I find more than enough info. This forum is great! :icon_cheers: 

Here's the thing I just made myself my first mash/lauter tun using an old esky, Palmer's braid technique and hose and fittings. But there is one problem. I have passed the hose though a hole in the base of the esky ( a very tight fit) but that's it and its got a little weeping leak. I know I could use a bulkhead fitting but the hole is small and I'm happy with what I have for the moment (except for the leak!)

Is there any sealant that you guys know of that is food-safe? I trauled around Selleys site for a while but I couldn't find exactly what I'm after. Any ideas?

cheers


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## kevnlis (10/3/08)

I used the clear stuff that is safe for fish tanks to seal inside mine. If it is safe for fish, it is probably safe for me. Done a heap of brews with it and I am still alive... 

http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Glass-Si...ne/default.aspx

EDIT: added link


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## Sammus (10/3/08)

I also had this problem a while ago, I emailed Selleys about it and they said their only food grade product which would withstand up to 100C (I was sealing my kettle before I realised I could use a silicone washer) was their multipurpose kneadit. Looking at the MSDS it says to keep it away from foodstuffs so I'm not really sure what the go is there.

Either way, I've read of many people using aquarium sealant, I'd feel OK using it, probably a better idea to do up a proper bulkhead thingy tho...


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## Sammus (10/3/08)

That glass sealant seems like it's a lot better to use, from the MSDS:

Ingestion: Swallowing may result in irritation to the mouth and throat. No adverse effects expected after swallowing
cured (solvent free) sealant.

Skin contact: Contact with skin may result in irritation. Cured sealant (solvent free) is not expected to be a skin irritant.

Dunno what the guy was thinkin who told me to use the kneadit, that stuff sounds deadly compared to this. Oh well, I didn't suffer from it - I bet the silicone is easier to make a seal with though


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## Doogiechap (10/3/08)

Sammus said:


> I also had this problem a while ago, I emailed Selleys about it and they said their only food grade product which would withstand up to 100C (I was sealing my kettle before I realised I could use a silicone washer) was their multipurpose kneadit. Looking at the MSDS it says to keep it away from foodstuffs so I'm not really sure what the go is there.
> 
> Either way, I've read of many people using aquarium sealant, I'd feel OK using it, probably a better idea to do up a proper bulkhead thingy tho...



Dow Corning RTV 732 Food Grade Silastic Sealant. Available from Bearing Suppliers and real hardware shops. I'll have to check the temp rating to confirm the 100+C requirement but a quick google should help 
Cheers
Doug


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## Quintrex (10/3/08)

I used aqua knead-it to do a running repair on my mash tun and it worked great.

It's rated food safe to high temps >100 deg C.

Highly recommended!!!!!

Edit: I think once it has cured it is fine near food-stuffs !


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## justsomeguy (10/3/08)

+1 for the Selleys Kneed-It stuff.

There are three different versions of this stuff though. Just make sure you use the right one. There is multi-purpose, metal and aqua. On a brew kettle, etc you should use the multi-purpose one. It is specifically rated for sealing potable water tanks, ie:drinking water. The aqua stuff is just a stickier version that can be applied whilst submerged. From what I could figure out it wasn't rated for potable water and the metal version isn't really rated for potable water either. Its rated to 120c continuous so I'd be a little wary using it on a gas fired brew kettle. Flame and heat coming up the side of a gas fired kettle might drive the heat up a little too much. Fine for an electric one though.

Comes in a stick with a hardener and the epoxy in one tube. Real easy to use, just break off a piece, squish it around in your fingers for a minute or so then put it on the parts you wish to stick together. Wait 72 hours for it to cure completely and you're done. It hards in around an hour but complete cure time is 72 hours.

I've replaced my silicone washer-based fittings with fitting that have been mounted using the Kneed-it stuff. Working well so far though there were a few problems initially. This stuff is quite brittle so if you bang the side of it, it may crack. I had a case where I was moving me brew kettle and banged the outlet on my leg. The epoxy cracked necessitating a rework.

If you are going to mount your fittings using this epoxy I highly recommend that you make sure your fitting goes THROUGH the side wall of the kettle. Then put the epoxy around the fitting on both the inside and outside of the kettle wall. That way the fitting will be supported more fully and the epoxy is less likely to crack.

Linky

I've also tried JB WELD but found it to be too runny and harder to work with.

gary


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## Franko (10/3/08)

A great product to use is Stag Jointing Paste it comes in a tube 200g that will probably last you a lifetime
this stuff is great for leak proof joints with air,water,steam,oil,petrol,kerosine,gas,beverages and foodstuffs.
is available at any auto store,I use it on all my fittings 

Franko


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## glitchpop (11/3/08)

Thanks heaps everyone. Great stuff. I'll check out as many of those as I can find. Once I seal it and try my first mash :beerbang: I'll let you know how it all went.

cheers


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