# Digital Thermostats



## parktho

Has anyone used any of the digital thermostats which are readily available on Ebay for either a mash tun or converting a fridge into a temperature-controlled incubator?

Here is an example. 

Thomas.


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## porky

That will work fine mate.
Less than half the cost of ones sold here, same functions.


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## QldKev

Yep I think it will work excellent; I just got one myself :wub:


Notice the 0.1c.... herms


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## LethalCorpse

Careful Kev - 0.1C resolution, 1C accuracy. It'll still most likely be better than something with 1C resolution, but if you want to trust it at that sort of accuracy you'll need to calibrate it against a very good thermometer.


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## Flash_DG

Nice find! will be getting one of these ASAP


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## yardy

QldKev said:


> Yep I think it will work excellent; I just got one myself :wub:
> 
> 
> Notice the 0.1c.... herms




Gday Kev, did you get yours through ebay ?

cheers

Dave


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## gava

damn!! could have got three of theses for the price of one and bit tempmates.. oh well... three tempmates is also ok.


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## Batz

Will that be ok for a fridge or herms?
I'm wondering if these might have a load that frizzles that thing. 




> This device is also suitable for Laboratories use and other temperature-controlled systems.
> 
> Applications:
> 
> Aquarium
> Terrarium
> Vivarium
> Paludarium
> Chicken Incubator



Batz


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## gava

i saw the follwoing on the features

"Refrigerating control output delay protection "


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## Fourstar

Ive been looking at these for a little while now. if somone gets one and can post their results it would be good. It looks like it has compressor delays and can take multi AC inputs. Niiice


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## porky

Batz said:


> Will that be ok for a fridge or herms?
> I'm wondering if these might have a load that frizzles that thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Batz



It says 10 amps in the switch. both heat and cool. If your load is higher just use a relay.

Cheers,
bud


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## QldKev

LethalCorpse said:


> Careful Kev - 0.1C resolution, 1C accuracy. It'll still most likely be better than something with 1C resolution, but if you want to trust it at that sort of accuracy you'll need to calibrate it against a very good thermometer.



Yep I did notice that; but I checked the specs for mashmaster and they happen to also be 1C, fridgemate 1C.

So I concluded it doesn't really matter which one I get, I will need to measure it against an alcohol filled thermometer to get a base line.
QldKev


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## QldKev

yardy said:


> Gday Kev, did you get yours through ebay ?
> 
> cheers
> 
> Dave




Yep sure did, the one parktho had linked to only had one left; but if you search by the seller he has several other listings at the same price.

QldKev


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## Cortez The Killer

Just ordered one

Cheers


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## komodo

I have two. I fried my fridgemate (that'll learn me to leave the jiffy box open) and just stumbled across these and thought "bugger it". So I bought two - one for my kegerator and one for my fermenting fridge.
Just gotta find 5 minutes to set them up. Seem very simple to use so hopefully they work out. Otherwise it was a learning curve. Seems to do everything that a tempmate does - how it actually compares I dont know as I've not got a tempmate.


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## pdilley

Digital Thermostats Warning

Before hanging out on specifications alone as a decider. Here is a photograph I took 30 minutes ago after wiring up the second TempMate.

Both TempMates have their sensors in the same glass or water at the bottom in the same position. 

Both TempMates were allowed to sit for 2 minutes to stabilise.


TempMate #1





TempMate #2




Temperature differential 0.5C which finally settled on 0.4C after sitting for a period of time. Thats still nearly 1/2 a degree off so if you have been brewing off of the one TempMate for a long period of time and expand to two TempMates you will need to make note of the difference on the second unit and adjust all your fermentation temperature regimes to adjust for the difference in measurement between the two units.



I don't know what the eBay units are like but they probably will be similar differentials.



Cheers,
Brewer Pete


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## porky

Good heads up....

All units only claim to be good to 1 degree, so .5 is well within the spec.

I have to ask, does .5 degree really matter in your fermenter???? It doesn't seem to in mine.

bud


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## pdilley

I use mine for growing mould for Sake brewing as well as fermentation. I have some pretty tight temperature targets to hit for mould to hit specific enzymes production in very narrow ranges. For now most people can get away with it as I have not finished the Sake post and got many into making it.

What would be good is if people with the eBay version can post a picture of the guts. More specifically the relays used in the eBay units to switch the AC on and off and see what the Amperage ratings are stamped on the relays themselves.


Cheers,
Brewer Pete


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## QldKev

budwiser said:


> Good heads up....
> 
> All units only claim to be good to 1 degree, so .5 is well within the spec.
> 
> I have to ask, does .5 degree really matter in your fermenter???? It doesn't seem to in mine.
> 
> bud



Even running in your herms, 0.5c would be a good result, compared to the hit n miss without one.

QldKev


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## pdilley

Just noticed bluedogs post. I've read the manual on the eBay unit and the rating on hot/cool is 10 Amps. The rating on the TempMate is hot/cool 20Amps.

Cheers,
Brewer Pete


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## Batz

budwiser said:


> It says 10 amps in the switch. both heat and cool. If your load is higher just use a relay.
> 
> Cheers,
> bud




Same as the fridge-mate then, these sound like a great buy. Those will have them soon will post their comments I'm sure, give them the test of time.
I run 3 fridge-mates and 2 Dixells, I could have save a fortune.

Batz


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## kelbygreen

I have ran mine for a full brew. it works great. I threw away the wiring diagram supplied and wired it up the same as a temp mate works perfect. The wiring diagram given didnt show what connected to what only where the active and neutral main connected. the rest does not make sense haha. I do not have anything to test how accruate it is but I do know I need to make a better way to attach to the fermenter as the air in the fridge is affecting it, If I open the door the temp can rise 1 deg in a few mins if left open. but I only have a pissy 5mm bit of foam insulating it so i doubt thats enough.


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## komodo

Brewer Pete said:


> Just noticed bluedogs post. I've read the manual on the eBay unit and the rating on hot/cool is 10 Amps. The rating on the TempMate is hot/cool 20Amps.
> 
> Cheers,
> Brewer Pete



If your fridge or immersion heater is drawing anywhere near 10amps theres probably some serious issues somewhere. 10a = 2400 watts = 3.21hp. Concidering that most bar fridges are around the 100watt (0.13HP or 0.5A) and full sized fridges I dont think are that much bigger power wise (happy to stand corrected) I dont think too many people will have any serious issues running off a 10amp rated relay - I'd like to see people draw much more than 10amps out of a standard GPO to be honest...
The only people who would be affected by the current limit of these units would be people who are using them with big heating elements for HLT / HERMS or boilers and most of these people would be better off with a PID and SSR for the same price...

I found the instructions to be precise so I dont know why you would need to throw them out. The clearly show the power for the unit and the switches.

As for the 0.5 degrees out that could be the sensor/probe itself. Have you tried the same test swapping the sensors around? When I put mine together I might have a look at doing some experimentation with them and different probes


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## The Mad Hopper

Mine just came in the mail. Looks pretty easy to wire up. I'm going to give it a shot myself and then have my brother look at it (it's handy having a sparky in the family!). Someone posted this link on another thread showing how to wire up a fridgemate:

Fridgemate Wiring Diagram

Not exactly the same, but gives a fair idea of how to do it (if you can't figure it out from this and the supplied wiring diagram, you probably shouldn't be doing it yourself anyway).

Has anyone already have this up and running? I was wondering whether the probe can be immersed in the fermenter (nothing about it in the instructions).


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## pokolbinguy

Received mine in the mail today aswell.

Nice turn around time. Ordered last monday night so got it on the 6th working day after ordering, pretty good from hong kong. I must say alot of stuff I have ordered from Hong Kong have been really quick...takes longer in aus!!!

Will post some pics/feedback up once I get to wire it up.Got to buy all the parts 1st.

Cheers, Pok.


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## kelbygreen

I wired mine up as per the fridgemate. Throw away them crap instructions you will get no where looking at them. mine is still going but need to get a box not to safe sitting on the concrete with wires going everywhere. At least I am the only one that goes into the shed


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## The Mad Hopper

pokolbinguy said:


> Will post some pics/feedback up once I get to wire it up.Got to buy all the parts 1st.



Yeah, ditto. Saturday arvo should be fun!


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## LethalCorpse

kelbygreen said:


> I have ran mine for a full brew. it works great. I threw away the wiring diagram supplied and wired it up the same as a temp mate works perfect. The wiring diagram given didnt show what connected to what only where the active and neutral main connected. the rest does not make sense haha. I do not have anything to test how accruate it is but I do know I need to make a better way to attach to the fermenter as the air in the fridge is affecting it, If I open the door the temp can rise 1 deg in a few mins if left open. but I only have a pissy 5mm bit of foam insulating it so i doubt thats enough.


can you scan or photograph the supplied instructions? sounds like I'm gonna have to do another diagram


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## komodo

Its almost identical to the tempmate LC. Just switched via relays on the active. Theres also no extra terminals for people to get confused with (comparing to a fridgemate here as I've not owned a tempmate)


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## komodo

Question if these units were wired up by a "competent person" and then test and tagged by a licenced electrician - could they HBS then sell them as ready to go units?


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## SpillsMostOfIt

Komodo said:


> Question if these units were wired up by a "competent person" and then test and tagged by a licenced electrician - could they HBS then sell them as ready to go units?



Surely the best person to answer that would be the HBS' insurance broker.


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## LethalCorpse

T&T doesn't cut it, has to go through EMC testing, get C-tick, etc.


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## shmick

On a much sadder note....

After 5 odd years of faultless service, the digital controller on my fermentation freezer spat the dummy sometime Mon night - I suspect during one of electrical storms we had. The controller itself was still working the next day but the relay contact had stuck closed and frozen everything inside solid. :angry: 

It wouldnt have been a major loss except, as luck would have it, I was defrosting my main garage fridge and had moved my entire yeast collection (14 strains + back-ups), a 3 litre starter for the following days brew (Bock), a dozen assorted craft/imported beers and maybe the most painful of all my last bottle each of 5 y/o Imperial Stout and 4 y/o Doppelbock Id been so looking forward to cracking on Australia Day.

Every bottle broke except for a large Erlenmeyer starter flask & a couple of Murrays Dark Knight stubbies (kudos to Shawn & the crew).
It formed a giant frozen mass in the bottom of the freezer that took all (Australia) day to defrost and clean out.

Will be rethinking how & where I store my yeast in the future

Spewin :icon_vomit:


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## MCT

LethalCorpse said:


> can you scan or photograph the supplied instructions? sounds like I'm gonna have to do another diagram




Here you go LC.


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## SpillsMostOfIt

I got one today and looked carefully at the thermo sensor under a lupe. I think it is molded onto the wire and should be moisture-resistant but I am probably going to put some silicon on it and some heat-shrink to seal the deal, so to speak...


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## kelbygreen

yep them instructions are very helpfull :lol: but it is easy to figure out once you look at the tempmate wiring posted over this site. Has any one tested these units for acuracy???


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## LethalCorpse

If you can't figure it out from that pinout and the diagrams posted in the tempmate thread, refer to my sig.


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## MCT

Mines wired up and working perfectly, just posted the diagram in case you wanted to do a diagram for the benefit of others.
But I agree, it is straitforward.


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## pwarren

Got one of these coming, should be here early next week. Then I'll need to find a chest freezer to stick it in! (If anyone knows of a cheap one in Canberra, let me know!)

SWMBOs will be most pleased when the fermenters are out of the spare bathroom


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## LethalCorpse

Yep, sorry MCT, that wasn't directed at anyone in particular, though kelby did say he had trouble with it, and I can't see why.


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## bigfridge

shmick said:


> On a much sadder note....
> 
> It wouldnt have been a major loss except, as luck would have it, I was defrosting my main garage fridge and had moved my entire yeast collection (14 strains + back-ups), a 3 litre starter for the following days brew (Bock), a dozen assorted craft/imported beers and maybe the most painful of all my last bottle each of 5 y/o Imperial Stout and 4 y/o Doppelbock Id been so looking forward to cracking on Australia Day.



Smick,

Sad to hear of your loss mate. I can't replace the beer but you are welcome to come by and help yourself to my 'out of date' Wyeast 'bargain bin'. The packs are unsaleable (as nobody seems to want to wait a few days for them to swell) but the yeast is fine. I should have most of the strains available.

You would be doing me a favour to clear out some fridge space.

Dave


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## The Mad Hopper

SpillsMostOfIt said:


> I got one today and looked carefully at the thermo sensor under a lupe. I think it is molded onto the wire and should be moisture-resistant but I am probably going to put some silicon on it and some heat-shrink to seal the deal, so to speak...



The silicon I understand, and good idea. Heat shrink, I'm not familiar with. Could you elaborate?


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## LethalCorpse

Silicone and heatshrink are not necessary, or recommended. They're both pretty good at insulating, which will slow down the temperature response of your probe, giving you worse control over your temperature, meanwhile the food safe aspect of heatshrink is probably dubious (I know it doesn't taste great). If it's for fridge control, just leave it loose in the fridge - don't put it in a bottle of water or the wort or anything like that. If it's for heater control in an HLT, HERMS, RIMS, etc, use a thermowell, and put the probe in the end of the thermowell with heatsink compound. The humidity in a fridge won't bother the probe at all.


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## kelbygreen

main problem with the dodgy instructions giving is there is no instructions on wiring just a picture that doesnt show what wire is what just few black lines. after about 2 mins on the tempmate thread it all came clear very fast.


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## QldKev

kelbygreen said:


> main problem with the dodgy instructions giving is there is no instructions on wiring just a picture that doesnt show what wire is what just few black lines. after about 2 mins on the tempmate thread it all came clear very fast.



I think that is the point on here, the 'dodgy' wiring diagram actually means something about switched connections to those who can read it; if not don't electrocute yourself.


QldKev


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## SpillsMostOfIt

Heat shrink and silicone are recommended.

I will be using mine in a chest freezer used for a fridge which seems to generate a significant amount of condensation due to a lot of opening/closing and which clings to everything in the freezer until the surface tension gives up and it falls to the drain. I expect that probe to be quite bothered if left as it came out of the box. A small amount of silicon where the cable enters the molding is not going to present any significant insulation.

In said fridge, simply dangling a probe in free air leads to way too much cycling of the compressor. The energy consumption of this fridge has dropped substantially since I effectively 'worsened' the response of the probe as the compressor spends comparatively less time bringing the system up to an active cooling state over the course of (say) a day. I rely on the mass of the contents to keep them somewhere around the average of the temperature range inside the freezer. "Worse" control is actually a good thing; if you're looking for 'better' control then a different cooling system is appropriate.


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## LethalCorpse

define "too much cycling". You may have reduced the energy consumption (and I'd be quite curious as to how much energy is saved by increasing the cycle time), but you've also destabilised the temperature of your wort (again, wouldn't be massive, but still). Whether the benefits outweigh the costs is a matter for personal consideration, but for mine, if the objective is controlling the temperature I don't go and deliberately make my control system worse unless absolutely necessary. So long as the delay is large enough to prevent damage to the compressor (most of the decent thermostats have minimum time delays), it shouldn't be a problem. Some small amount of thermal mass would help increase the cycle time (the Jaycar kit comes with a small Al bar, for example), but sticking it in your wort or in a jug of water is overkill.


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## rendo

Guys,

Can I ask a dumb question? Okay, here is DQ #2....

I am pretty handy when it comes to wiring, soldering, circuit board work etc, but I have never tinkered with a fridge, so I shyed away from this stuff as I dont understand fridge wiring, compressors etc.

However if I am reading this right, the digital thermostat is simply an ON/OFF switch for the fridge (or freezer...whatever) based on the reading taking from the temp probe. So all the dig therms are basically a glorified power switch, based on a temp reading?

If so, then all I need to do is hack into the power cord of the fridge, wire up as per diag/instructions (easy peasy) and away I go?? 

If thats the case then BRING IT ON  Woohoo...!!

Please tell me it is this simple (it looks it from the great instructions posted earlier in this thread)


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## RdeVjun

In a word rendo, yes. They're mostly just set- point with a dead band, so off at temp<setpoint-1/2threshold, on at temp>setpoint+1/2threshold. Or something like that. 

A delay is to stop fools from setting threshold as minuscule and having the thing cycling rapidly, coolant compressors are none too pleased at being cycled too frequently, a handful of Hz at most.


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## LethalCorpse

Effectively, rendo, yes. But I can't recommend hacking it directly into your power cord. Wire up a box with a power inlet and outlet, as shown in this and several other threads.


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## SpillsMostOfIt

Previously, chest freezer in question was coming on at the end of each 'compressor delay' and running for maybe a minute or so. I have reduced the number of times the compressor runs in a period and extending the time for which it runs - now usually for about 4 mins. The amount of energy consumed is considerable - in theory because there are fewer 'compressor coming up to speed' events and also in practice. I don't have one of those plug-into-the-wall energy meters; I have to rely on the instrumentation of my inverter which covers the whole house and extrapolate a little. I reckon it was certainly tens of (24V) amp-hours each day, which is significant. (Even when I spent 6 hours pumping bore water up a hill yesterday, our total electricity consumption including the kitchen fridge, the beer fridge, the fermenting fridge and a chest freezer plus a sick wife wanting to watch Oprah and '30-Something' DVDs all day remained under 5kWH.)

With this device I'm keeping beer cool - not wort.

It is a silliness to try and keep the environment around a keg of beer at a constant temperature with a domestic fridge/freezer (that is why God gave us caves and cellars). The environment inside my freezer will see greater temperature swings than my fermenting fridge, but that's okay because it is doing a different thing. There is considerable thermal mass in four kegs of beer and a few tens of litres of air has to be quite cold indeed to move it in a hurry.

I support all those who fight the practice of immersing temperature probes into fermenting wort when using domestic refrigeration systems.


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## The Mad Hopper

I wouldn't have thought that having the probe free in the fridge would have used any more power than having any old fridge plugged in normally? (And I would have thought that it would have been much less, as the temperature differential between fermenting temp and room temp would be lower (than between room temp and 4C) and therefore warming of the fridge would take place more slowly and less compressor cycling would be needed).


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## rendo

Absolutely LC,

I use the word hacking rather loosely ...

I will do the job very neatly and safely. 

I just always thought that to install a fridgemate (etc) that you had to cut other wiring and compressor controls etc etc, stuff I didnt fully understand. But really this is just a modification to the power cable. i.e glorified switch...

Thats great! Am going to buy one now for sure  totally easy peasy...(at least for me)



LethalCorpse said:


> Effectively, rendo, yes. But I can't recommend hacking it directly into your power cord. Wire up a box with a power inlet and outlet, as shown in this and several other threads.


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## LethalCorpse

rendo said:


> But really this is just a modification to the power cable. i.e glorified switch...


No, it's not any kind of modification of the power cable. That's my point. It's a box which plugs into the wall, and then has a socket on it which you plug your fridge into. No modification of the fridge, or the fridge's power cable, is required.

You are right on glorified switch, though.


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## Cortez The Killer

Mine arrived today!

At the risk of appearing silly why do the Fridgemate, Tempmate etc have a spot for the earth cable?

While the ebay ones don't?

Cheers


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## rendo

Ohhhh....I see what u mean now. SO no modification to the actual cord...okay...GOT IT....

I am SO going to do this. I cant wait...





LethalCorpse said:


> No, it's not any kind of modification of the power cable. That's my point. It's a box which plugs into the wall, and then has a socket on it which you plug your fridge into. No modification of the fridge, or the fridge's power cable, is required.
> 
> You are right on glorified switch, though.


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## coe-crl

Got mine today, going shopping at Jaycar tomorrow!


And I'm already thinking about ordering another 2.


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## The Mad Hopper

Cortez The Killer said:


> Mine arrived today!
> 
> At the risk of appearing silly why do the Fridgemate, Tempmate etc have a spot for the earth cable?
> 
> While the ebay ones don't?
> 
> Cheers



Offering up an answer (although LethalCorpse or someone else may correct me!). With the ebay ones, you run the earth from the cord, through to the fridge, without going into the box. With fridgemates etc, you run an earth into the box as well. It just means that while with both will earth the fridge, the ebay ones won't earth the box as well. (I'd assume it boils down to a cost thing)


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## LethalCorpse

In Australia, devices which are double insulated (ie, there are two layers of insulation between any mains wires or terminals and the user) do not need to be earthed. Anything with a metal chassis will usually be earthed. Since you're putting this in a plastic box, it shouldn't be a problem that it's not earthed, but there are probably a dozen reasons it wouldn't meet Australian Standards. RDWHAHB


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## hatchor

kelbygreen said:


> yep them instructions are very helpfull :lol: but it is easy to figure out once you look at the tempmate wiring posted over this site. Has any one tested these units for acuracy???




Tested mine 2 days ago using the same method as calibrating a mashmaster dial thermometer with a slurry of ice, and then boiling water. I also tested it against 50 degree water. It was measured against a thermal contact laser temp gauge, an Ikea brand digital meat thermo and the aforementioned MM dial thermo from my mash tun. The temp control unit was out by +0.3 degrees when others showed a flat zero, and measuring 50.8 degrees with the pre-existing thermometers showing a flat 50. At a flat 90 degrees the new temp control unit displayed 91.1 degrees.

So at zero, it is 0.3 degrees above. At 90 it is about 1 degree to high. Plenty accurate enough for controlling my fermenting environment!

Beers, :beerbang:


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## Cortez The Killer

LethalCorpse said:


> In Australia, devices which are double insulated (ie, there are two layers of insulation between any mains wires or terminals and the user) do not need to be earthed. Anything with a metal chassis will usually be earthed. Since you're putting this in a plastic box, it shouldn't be a problem that it's not earthed, but there are probably a dozen reasons it wouldn't meet Australian Standards. RDWHAHB


Makes sense

Thanks


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## rendo

Guys,

Considering that the dig thermo on ebay has a cooling and heating, how could you use the heating side of it? Not that i imagine i would use this often, as when its that cold, it lager time, but still....hear this out.

Wire up the therm as previously discussed in this thread, but then chuck a heatpad or heatbelt onto your fermenter, that way if it gets too cold then u have a heater too.

I would think it would be a good idea to make sure the probe is either in the ferm or attached to the outside, so you are reading wort temps not air temps. Otherwise you will get a boiled brew? 

thoughts? whats a better way to heat? kettle element in the wort?? They are cheap at jaycar...(okay, the kettle element was a joke, dont shoot)


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## pokolbinguy

other option is a light globe as a heat source.


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## Back Yard Brewer

pokolbinguy said:


> other option is a light globe as a heat source.




A bright idea  but also an old fashioned one at that.

BYB


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## SpillsMostOfIt

pokolbinguy said:


> other option is a light globe as a heat source.



... or a reptile heater.


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## herbo

What part of the fridge are you guys passing the temp sensor cord through? Just through the door seal?

If you're using a heat source where are you passing the heat source cord through, the same spot?

Cheers


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## SpillsMostOfIt

herbo said:


> What part of the fridge are you guys passing the temp sensor cord through? Just through the door seal?
> 
> If you're using a heat source where are you passing the heat source cord through, the same spot?
> 
> Cheers



Me: Condensation Drain.
Others: Door Seal.
Losers: A badly-drilled hole...


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## KillerRx4

Would it be an issue to use a RTD sensor such as linked below in place of the supplied NTC sensor?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_pag...;products_id=96


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## LethalCorpse

Yes, it wouldn't work. An RTD is much more precise than an NTC thermistor (probably much more precise than is necessary for fridge control), but the controller needs to be designed to handle it. Some controllers can handle different probe types and can calibrate for different component values, but most (like this one) are designed for a specific sensor type and value.


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## rendo

Keeping on a similar topic, who wants to help me with my fridge dilemma.....Lethalcorpse? 

Please check out this new thread I created:

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...showtopic=41799


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## pokolbinguy

Ok got to wiring my unit up.

I checked it against my Fridgemate and also the Tempmate thread and I'm pretty darn sure I have it all correct.

BUT before I plug it in I am going to wait till I get some feedback to say its right.

Haven't wired in the sensor yet...but want the other wiring checked.

Cheers, Pok





Earth comes in from the supply (IEC – on right), and fed directly to both GPO’s via a joiner.

Neutral comes from supply, to switch on IEC, out of switch to port 2 on unit. Looped out of port 2 on the unit to a joiner. From joiner to both GPO’s.

Active comes from supply, to switch on IEC , out of switch to a joiner. Joiner feeds port 1, 5 and 7. Active leaves unit (switched) from port 6 to GPO for Heating, from port 8 for Cooling

IEC Supply / Switch wiring:


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## komodo

looks right. The only thing a little unclear in the pic is how you wired the switch.

edit : just looked at the pic - yep thats fine identical to how mine is wired excepting that I only switched the active on the switch too CBFd with extra wires


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## pokolbinguy

Komodo said:


> looks right. The only thing a little unclear in the pic is how you wired the switch.
> 
> edit : just looked at the pic - yep thats fine identical to how mine is wired excepting that I only switched the active on the switch too CBFd with extra wires



Cool, thanks for the reply.

I also emailed LC to get him to check it...always good to have things double and triple checked when its electricity on the other end.

Given he gives the all clear its fermenting time tomorrow night ..... about time!!!

Cheers, Pok


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## LethalCorpse

Yup, looks fine in terms of wires going to the right places. Cables could be a bit shorter and tidier, maybe some cable ties. It's a bit odd that you've used a screw terminal to split the active, but the neutral loops through the controller first - those terminals are smaller than the screw terms and not really designed for branching. Then again, neither are the screw terminals - that's what a BP connector is for. Also, see the small holes on the side of the mains sockets? The wires should pass through those before going to the connectors, it provides strain relief. Not a huge problem, since the wires can't be pulled on when the box is closed. Good job otherwise.
BTW, how are you passing your sensor wires through the chassis?


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## pokolbinguy

LethalCorpse said:


> Yup, looks fine in terms of wires going to the right places. Cables could be a bit shorter and tidier, maybe some cable ties. It's a bit odd that you've used a screw terminal to split the active, but the neutral loops through the controller first - those terminals are smaller than the screw terms and not really designed for branching. Then again, neither are the screw terminals - that's what a BP connector is for. Also, see the small holes on the side of the mains sockets? The wires should pass through those before going to the connectors, it provides strain relief. Not a huge problem, since the wires can't be pulled on when the box is closed. Good job otherwise.
> BTW, how are you passing your sensor wires through the chassis?



Thanks LC. On the note of the looping of the neutral...I did that one first then decided to use the terminal to split the active..its easy enough to do the same way but I figured it makes no difference. Was just a change of approach 1/2 way.

As for the strain relief on the outlets...I didnt even think of that...it did cross my mind what those holes were for but didnt really think too hard about it...but considering the whole thing is enclosed its not going to move.

As for the sensor wires...for now I think I will just drill a hole and place the cable through this...I will get myself a "headphone jack" or something similar next time I'm at jaycar/dse and put a plug in it so the enclosure is entirely seperate from the cables.

Good to see I did it right...well mostly  

Thanks guys.

Now to get this thing fired up so I can ferment my beer!!!!

Cheers, Pok


----------



## pokolbinguy

For those wanting a set of instructions for their "Ebay Temp Controller" to print out, laminate and stick with their controller attached is a version for you to print out.

got my unit up and running...will leave it till tomorrow night to pitch my ferment....mmm can smell it now ...yay!!

Cheers, Pok


----------



## komodo

I found the instructions supplied with this unit easier to understand than the instructions with my fridgemate!

I think its a little pissa for the price I cant fault it.


----------



## rendo

Thanks Pok,

I cant wait to get mine. Already printed your instructions and ready to go. Its on its was from HK to my door as we speak. Maybe it has a window seat?

What sort of fridge are you running it with? I was thinking of getting a approx 200L fridge/freezer combination. That way (just in case) if I am not brewing, then I unplug the dig thermo and use the fridge as a party/overflow fridge etc. Sounds raesonable?

Also, I fixed my wine fridge today. It was an evap sensor. Had to pull the thing to pieces to get it sorted. Now I need to decide if I should keep the fridge or sell it to fund a fermentation fridge 

Rendo



pokolbinguy said:


> For those wanting a set of instructions for their "Ebay Temp Controller" to print out, laminate and stick with their controller attached is a version for you to print out.
> 
> got my unit up and running...will leave it till tomorrow night to pitch my ferment....mmm can smell it now ...yay!!
> 
> Cheers, Pok
> 
> View attachment 35442


----------



## komodo

sell its and fund a fridge for fermenting.

As for a fridge freezer - I think they are a waste for our needs. Most fridge freezers work by keeping the freezer cold and then using the freezer to cool the fridge space - some just by vents and some by using a fan setup. 
I reacon you'd be able to pick up a decent 2nd hand full fridge and a fridge freezer for what you'll get for that wine fridge


----------



## litre_o_cola

rendo said:


> Thanks Pok,
> 
> I cant wait to get mine. Already printed your instructions and ready to go. Its on its was from HK to my door as we speak. Maybe it has a window seat?
> 
> What sort of fridge are you running it with? I was thinking of getting a approx 200L fridge/freezer combination. That way (just in case) if I am not brewing, then I unplug the dig thermo and use the fridge as a party/overflow fridge etc. Sounds raesonable?
> 
> Also, I fixed my wine fridge today. It was an evap sensor. Had to pull the thing to pieces to get it sorted. Now I need to decide if I should keep the fridge or sell it to fund a fermentation fridge
> 
> Rendo



No need to unplug it, just set your temp that you want everything to be chilled to and you will know how cold your beer is. :icon_cheers:


----------



## rendo

You're an ideas man, thats fantastic.



litre_o_cola said:


> No need to unplug it, just set your temp that you want everything to be chilled to and you will know how cold your beer is. :icon_cheers:


----------



## rendo

Hi everyone,

What sort of compressor delay do you set on your 'fridgemates' and similarly named digital thermostats?

I think the default of the ebay one is 3mins? Is that long enough?? 5mins??

Your thoughts guys??

rendo


----------



## Fourstar

Just put some cash down for one of these bad boys.

Excellent!


----------



## Cortez The Killer

rendo said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> What sort of compressor delay do you set on your 'fridgemates' and similarly named digital thermostats?
> 
> I think the default of the ebay one is 3mins? Is that long enough?? 5mins??
> 
> Your thoughts guys??
> 
> rendo


I have mine at 9 mins (the maximun on a fridgemate)

There was a theory at some point that its less intense on the compressor - but honestly I don't know

Seems to be working fine 

Cheers


----------



## rendo

I got mine today, couldnt resist, I had it hooked up in an hour and now I am having fun with it.

Works a treat. 

Am going to start a new thread about settings... 



Fourstar said:


> Just put some cash down for one of these bad boys.
> 
> Excellent!


----------



## coe-crl

I'm getting an "EE" error with my unit. According the manual this error occurs when the temperature is outside of it's operating range. Based on this I suspect my problem is interference on the sensor lines. I'm going to re-route it so that the cabling is well clear of all other wires inside my box. This means drilling another hole and running it out of the side of the unit rather than the back.

Also, thanks for all the good posts in this thread! I'm looking forward to ditching the frozen water bottles.


----------



## rendo

it 'could' be a faulty/intermittment sensor problem too...

hopefully just interference as you said though...




ChrisL said:


> I'm getting an "EE" error with my unit. According the manual this error occurs when the temperature is outside of it's operating range. Based on this I suspect my problem is interference on the sensor lines. I'm going to re-route it so that the cabling is well clear of all other wires inside my box. This means drilling another hole and running it out of the side of the unit rather than the back.
> 
> Also, thanks for all the good posts in this thread! I'm looking forward to ditching the frozen water bottles.


----------



## stew.w

ChrisL said:


> I'm getting an "EE" error with my unit. According the manual this error occurs when the temperature is outside of it's operating range. Based on this I suspect my problem is interference on the sensor lines. I'm going to re-route it so that the cabling is well clear of all other wires inside my box. This means drilling another hole and running it out of the side of the unit rather than the back.
> 
> Also, thanks for all the good posts in this thread! I'm looking forward to ditching the frozen water bottles.



your probe might be broken because my probe wiring runs out the same hole as the power and doesnt get any interference


----------



## coe-crl

Thanks guys. I'll test it tonight and see if I can find a replacement sensor if required.


----------



## coe-crl

All good, just a faulty connection on the sensor. Up and running with a 0.3 degree difference between the unit and my thermometer.


----------



## herbo

Fellas, quick question.

Any thoughts on how this would go as a heat source?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Reptile-snake-lizar...=item3efcf3e728

They're quite inexpensive and already rigged with a plug but wondering if 20 watts would push out enough heat? Gets a bit cold here in Ballarat during winter and would like to still be able to brew ales.

Cheers


----------



## rendo

Hey Herbo,

U should check out the auction description again!! 

It says: Heatmat is not waterproof and DO NOT immerse in water

I guess it doesnt say do not immerse in beer?? so MAYBE!

haha, anyway, maybe you were thinking to put the fermenter ON TOP of it...GENIUS! No idea if its good, sounds similar to a brewing heat mat really. Dont know what sort of watts they pump out. someone else will for sure (or google will). Also you'd want to make sure the mat can handle the weight? Of not, maybe it can be strapped against the side of the fermenter, the mat looks flexible.



herbo said:


> Fellas, quick question.
> 
> Any thoughts on how this would go as a heat source?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Reptile-snake-lizar...=item3efcf3e728
> 
> They're quite inexpensive and already rigged with a plug but wondering if 20 watts would push out enough heat? Gets a bit cold here in Ballarat during winter and would like to still be able to brew ales.
> 
> Cheers


----------



## herbo

rendo said:


> Hey Herbo,
> 
> U should check out the auction description again!!
> 
> It says: Heatmat is not waterproof and DO NOT immerse in water
> 
> I guess it doesnt say do not immerse in beer?? so MAYBE!
> 
> haha, anyway, maybe you were thinking to put the fermenter ON TOP of it...GENIUS! No idea if its good, sounds similar to a brewing heat mat really. Dont know what sort of watts they pump out. someone else will for sure (or google will). Also you'd want to make sure the mat can handle the weight? Of not, maybe it can be strapped against the side of the fermenter, the mat looks flexible.



Hey Rendo,

Wasn't planning on immersing the mat in the beer. Thought it might go alright just hanging in the fridge behind the fermentor as the heat source.

Cheers mate


----------



## Fourstar

ChrisL said:


> All good, just a faulty connection on the sensor. Up and running with a 0.3 degree difference between the unit and my thermometer.



I was going to say that was the issue after reading the manual yesterday but you beat me to it.

Had a go at pre wiring most of it up and gave it a test run. I can say she works.  

Now i just need to buy myself a jiffy box and same cable glands. Off to jaycar i go!

What size box did most of you guys opt for?


----------



## Supra-Jim

4*,

I used a larger box, about 150mm x 200mm, and mounted a power point on the face of the box below the fridgemate display. This reduced the cables dagging around and came up looking a little neater. My previous effort had cables running all over the place.

Cheers SJ


----------



## rendo

I'll be doing the same, i.e mounting a double powerpoint on the back of my box (soon). One for the cooling/fridge and one for the heating (no idea what yet, if it all, but I just want to have it hooked up).

Box is about 25cmx15cmx10cm approx,  a bit on the larger side, but its solid 



Supra-Jim said:


> 4*,
> 
> I used a larger box, about 150mm x 200mm, and mounted a power point on the face of the box below the fridgemate display. This reduced the cables dagging around and came up looking a little neater. My previous effort had cables running all over the place.
> 
> Cheers SJ


----------



## Fourstar

Supra-Jim said:


> 4*,
> 
> I used a larger box, about 150mm x 200mm, and mounted a power point on the face of the box below the fridgemate display. This reduced the cables dagging around and came up looking a little neater. My previous effort had cables running all over the place.
> 
> Cheers SJ



Ive already wired a powerpoint to the controller for the fridge to plug into and then im planning on running a cable gland out the rear next to it with the power cable for the temp controller. Two steps ahead of you! 

For the Fridge:






I was thinking of running another point for the temp controller but couldnt be arsed re wiring a extension lead with two male ends or buying a kettle plug. 

One of those Iris style waterproof glands should make it neat enough i think.


----------



## Supra-Jim

Two steps aheah eh? I suppose you think pretty clever!!  Pretty much the same as i have done, even down to the choice of glands!

I'm using the stainless immersible probe and i put some male connecters on the end of this, and female plugs into the side of the box. Makes it a little neater, and i can easily unplug the temp probe as i swap between using this to control the fermentation fridge and the HLT urn for brew days.

Cheers SJ


----------



## Fourstar

Supra-Jim said:


> I'm using the stainless immersible probe and i put some male connecters on the end of this, and female plugs into the side of the box. Makes it a little neater, and i can easily unplug the temp probe as i swap between using this to control the fermentation fridge and the HLT urn for brew days.
> Cheers SJ



Cant say im going that far, Simply glanded out the side for me.


----------



## coe-crl

I used one of these (Jiffy Box - Black - 197 x 113 x 63mm - $6.95) from Jaycar. It's a bit tight inside because of the way I have it arranged, but if you off-set the controller to the power in and heating/cooling points out, you'd have no worries. A little bit more pre-planning and I reckon I could use the next size down comfortably.

Does anyone have advice on how these would affect the freezer unit of a fridge freezer? 

My feeling is that it would hamper the freezer unit. I would guess that it depends on how the fridge controls the two parts. If it's the one compressor and the cooling effect is distributed differently, then there's no chance. If it's two compressors and the power is split, controlled by thermostats, then it could be mated directly to the fridge compressor.


----------



## under

I dont know which to get. The fridgemate or this?? Heh.


----------



## Fourstar

under said:


> I dont know which to get. The fridgemate or this?? Heh.



get this, or two of them for the same price as a tempmate and the same functionality!


----------



## moovet

Hi guys,

Thinking of buying one and getting a fridge set up but couldn't actually find the instructions/pictures of how to wire *this *one up despite the many references. Can someone please give me the link to the A-Z instructions including the components required. I may get the materials and get a sparky to do it for me but need the details.

Cheers,


Geoff


----------



## gava

I've got two tempmates and i've just purchased one of theses cheap ones.. once i get them I'll give them a side by side test.. im pretty sure they'll be the same.. ordered two for $10 cheaper than one tempmate..



Fourstar said:


> get this, or two of them for the same price as a tempmate and the same functionality!


----------



## Fourstar

moovet said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Thinking of buying one and getting a fridge set up but couldn't actually find the instructions/pictures of how to wire *this *one up despite the many references. Can someone please give me the link to the A-Z instructions including the components required. I may get the materials and get a sparky to do it for me but need the details.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Geoff



wiring diagram comes with the temp comtroller, alternativly its pretty much identical to woring up the tempmate minus wiring a earth to the controller. (only requires N and A.)


----------



## LethalCorpse

moovet said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Thinking of buying one and getting a fridge set up but couldn't actually find the instructions/pictures of how to wire *this *one up despite the many references. Can someone please give me the link to the A-Z instructions including the components required. I may get the materials and get a sparky to do it for me but need the details.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Geoff


Take it to an appliance shop, or a friend who's good with electronics. If you can't work out how to do it after the screeds of information and diagrams posted by myself and others in this thread and others, you've got no business working with a 240V appliance. Sorry, pal, that's just how it is.

EDIT: Didn't see that last sentence the first time - at least you recognise your limitations. If you can find a sparky willing to do it for you, he won't need more detailed instructions than what is provided with the unit. The detailed parts list has been provided in these threads.


----------



## rendo

I couldnt agree more. It is not really that complex, BUT, if you have any doubt then dont do it. If you have no experience with electronics etc then I would say you definitely need to get a electrician or mate who knows what they are doing.

You really are dealing with a loaded gun (240V kills, electricians included, it just takes one very quick slip or misunderstanding) and really is beer worth dying for? Seriously...no. I bet your family wont think so, even if so many of us brewers may  Cant drink much beer when ur toasted! Maybe could be buried in a pit of beer?? hmmmmm...beeeeeer ...pit of beeeeer!! It'd be like a beer spa!




LethalCorpse said:


> Take it to an appliance shop, or a friend who's good with electronics. If you can't work out how to do it after the screeds of information and diagrams posted by myself and others in this thread and others, you've got no business working with a 240V appliance. Sorry, pal, that's just how it is.
> 
> EDIT: Didn't see that last sentence the first time - at least you recognise your limitations. If you can find a sparky willing to do it for you, he won't need more detailed instructions than what is provided with the unit. The detailed parts list has been provided in these threads.


----------



## beerDingo

I ended up using a box similar to these:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HB6128

With the see through lid. Not sure of the exact size.

However, after wiring it up, I plugged it in, and got NOTHING! Checked, ..., triple checked, and it looks like it's wired correctly. I suppose I will hunt down an electricion, to confirm that it is DOA, and if so, I will try and get a replacement.


----------



## coe-crl

ChrisL said:


> I used one of these (Jiffy Box - Black - 197 x 113 x 63mm - $6.95) from Jaycar. It's a bit tight inside because of the way I have it arranged, but if you off-set the controller to the power in and heating/cooling points out, you'd have no worries. A little bit more pre-planning and I reckon I could use the next size down comfortably.
> 
> *Does anyone have advice on how these would affect the freezer unit of a fridge freezer?*
> 
> My feeling is that it would hamper the freezer unit. I would guess that it depends on how the fridge controls the two parts. If it's the one compressor and the cooling effect is distributed differently, then there's no chance. If it's two compressors and the power is split, controlled by thermostats, then it could be mated directly to the fridge compressor.




Might be a bit quick to repost, but it looks like my question got lost at the end of the thread.


----------



## LethalCorpse

Most fridge/freezer combos work by having a single compressor driving the freezer and controlled by the freezer's thermostat. There's then a second thermostat which controls airflow between the fridge and the freezer - either cutting a fan in and out, or simply closing a vent. My brew fridge (before it died ) was the latter - just a bimetal strip with a flat plate on the end over a hole, with a fan in the freezer that was on when the compressor was on. I just removed the whole plate to allow better airflow between the two compartments. If you can come up with a means of controlling or replacing the thermostat between the two compartments in your fridge, you can control them at different temperatures - lagering and fermenting if the freezer is big enough, or hops or yeast store and fermenting. If it's an electrical control, that's really easy - just add another digital thermostat to the wires that power it. If it's mechanical, like mine was, it's a bit more fiddly, though not impossible - a digital thermostat controlling an actuator/solenoid driving the plate over the hole would do it.


----------



## herbo

herbo said:


> Fellas, quick question.
> 
> Any thoughts on how this would go as a heat source?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Reptile-snake-lizar...=item3efcf3e728
> 
> They're quite inexpensive and already rigged with a plug but wondering if 20 watts would push out enough heat? Gets a bit cold here in Ballarat during winter and would like to still be able to brew ales.
> 
> Cheers



Just re-posting this. Does anyone know if these reptile mats would have a similar heat output to the proper brewing heat mats?

A site search on 'heat source' tells me that many people hang their brewing heat pad in the back of the fridge somewhere as the heat source. Wondering if this reptile mat could do the same job?


----------



## rendo

Herbo,

I was just joking about submersing it 

ANyway, a quick search on google "brewing heat mat watts" got me this & more

http://homebrewheaven.com/brew-heater-pad.htm

most of the mats I saw were about 20W-30W. So they seem to be around the same wattage. I couldnt say if it would be as good as I really dont know, but if its the same watts then I couldnt see why? Maybe a light bulb really simply does the same trick, or better if you start using a 40W globe or higher

Anyway, i think you should be an AHB pioneer and give it a go and report back on your findings  then I can get one (or not) based on what you say 





herbo said:


> Just re-posting this. Does anyone know if these reptile mats would have a similar heat output to the proper brewing heat mats?
> 
> A site search on 'heat source' tells me that many people hang their brewing heat pad in the back of the fridge somewhere as the heat source. Wondering if this reptile mat could do the same job?


----------



## Doogiechap

Fourstar said:


> I was thinking of running another point for the temp controller but couldnt be arsed re wiring a extension lead with two male ends or buying a kettle plug.



4* please promise me that you will NEVER do that h34r: 

2 males on an extension lead will probably not get you killed because you know about it. It will kill your mate who unplugs the wrong end first  .
Be careful with this stuff fellas.
cheers
Doug


----------



## LethalCorpse

Nice spot, Doug, I missed that one. He's dead right, 4*, an extension with two male ends is EXTRAORDINARILY unsafe. It's a question of when it will kill someone, not if. Don't ever do this.

It is for very good reason that outlets are ALWAYS female, and inlets are always male. Whether it's on a wall socket, a cable or an appliance, this ensures that it is impossible to connect something that's live into something else that's live, and makes it impossible for someone to touch live pins.


----------



## coe-crl

LethalCorpse said:


> Most fridge/freezer combos work by having a single compressor driving the freezer and controlled by the freezer's thermostat. There's then a second thermostat which controls airflow between the fridge and the freezer - either cutting a fan in and out, or simply closing a vent. My brew fridge (before it died  ) was the latter - just a bimetal strip with a flat plate on the end over a hole, with a fan in the freezer that was on when the compressor was on. I just removed the whole plate to allow better airflow between the two compartments. If you can come up with a means of controlling or replacing the thermostat between the two compartments in your fridge, you can control them at different temperatures - lagering and fermenting if the freezer is big enough, or hops or yeast store and fermenting. If it's an electrical control, that's really easy - just add another digital thermostat to the wires that power it. If it's mechanical, like mine was, it's a bit more fiddly, though not impossible - a digital thermostat controlling an actuator/solenoid driving the plate over the hole would do it.



Cheers LC.


----------



## moovet

LethalCorpse said:


> If you can't work out how to do it after the screeds of information and diagrams posted by myself and others in this thread and others, you've got no business working with a 240V appliance. Sorry, pal, that's just how it is.



I spent about an hour today going through this thread to find the details I was wanting before posting this request. Disappointingly, no-one has actually highlighted the post(s) in this thread with the info I was after. 

I have been through all Lethalcorpse's profile after he made reference to clicking his signature for a diagram of the tempmate wiring but I couldn't find what I was after. This may be because I am new to this forum or the info I am after is on a different thread.

A little guidance was all I was after as I thought that was what these forums were for. As I said, I was not necessarily going to do it myself but thank you for all the warnings about electricity. I thought it only tickled.


----------



## under

Put those pliers down and call an electrician before you hurt someone.


----------



## rendo

Moovet,

Here is what you are after 

http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29

Its a great post with excellent pictures. We care for you and others, hence the warnings or i'd term it 'genuine concern'. I would hate to think someone hurt/killed themselves because of advice from AHB or myself or that I didnt do enough to prevent someone from making a lethal mistake.

The link above should make it very clear for someone with electrical experience and don't try this at home 

Rendo





moovet said:


> I spent about an hour today going through this thread to find the details I was wanting before posting this request. Disappointingly, no-one has actually highlighted the post(s) in this thread with the info I was after.
> 
> I have been through all Lethalcorpse's profile after he made reference to clicking his signature for a diagram of the tempmate wiring but I couldn't find what I was after. This may be because I am new to this forum or the info I am after is on a different thread.
> 
> A little guidance was all I was after as I thought that was what these forums were for. As I said, I was not necessarily going to do it myself but thank you for all the warnings about electricity. I thought it only tickled.


----------



## moovet

Thank you rendo, I did see the fridgemate instructions but was after the ebay units instructions. Someone said it was the same as the TempMate but I couldn't find those instructions either. Must be in a different thread so I will try and find them.

Thanks again.


----------



## rendo

its all the same really....

the wires are in a different 'order' or 'sequence' on the ebay one, but its all the same logic.

anyway, here is the instruction sheet for the EBAY one......(page 2 of this thread)

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...st&p=589310

AND...here is pok's ebay unit wired up. (page 3 of this thread) He when to town and wired it up really well, good on him, but between the link I previously sent you, the instructions above and pok's pics and post....its all there  

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...st&p=591068

hope that all helps



moovet said:


> Thank you rendo, I did see the fridgemate instructions but was after the ebay units instructions. Someone said it was the same as the TempMate but I couldn't find those instructions either. Must be in a different thread so I will try and find them.
> 
> Thanks again.


----------



## LethalCorpse

And I say again, the reason you've not figured it out so far is not because the information you seek is not there, but because you lack the ability or experience to understand it. There's nothing wrong with that - I lack the ability and experience to grasp open heart bypass surgery, golf course design and maintenance and hairdressing, for example. I don't attempt them - without that experience I could easily kill myself or someone I care about attempting any one of them. I leave them to the people who know how to do them. When I said refer to my sig, I wasn't telling whoever it was that the instructions were there, somehow encoded in the text or hidden as a super compressed image in the full stop at the end. I was telling them to put the bloody pliers down and call an electrician. You also need to put the bloody pliers down and call an electrician, or a TV repair shop, or a mate who's stripped a wire or three in his time. You can not do this job.


----------



## LethalCorpse

moovet said:


> A little guidance was all I was after


"A little guidance" is exactly what we're hoping to avoid giving you. "A little guidance" will give you just enough information to think you can have a crack at it, but not enough for you to do it properly. "A little guidance" will get you killed. For you, it'll have to be either a LOT of guidance, as in stand next to you and do most of it for you, or none at all. I'm going with none at all. I'm not saying this to be an arse, I'm not saying it because I don't want to be helpful to a newcomer, I'm not saying it because I think you're an idiot, or incapable, or otherwise useless. I'm saying it because, whether you realise it or not, you've demonstrated with undeniable clarity that you do not have the skills to do this. I'm sure you've been told that 240V is dangerous, and I'm sure you think you'll be careful. You haven't even begun to consider the ways in which you need to be careful. Do I need to lay it out any more clearly for you?


----------



## moovet

Thanks Rendo much appreciated. 

Interesting what you say about the heart bypass surgery LC as I could probably help you with that. Tell you what, when the time comes I'll trade you a bypass for a fully functional beerfridge then nobody dies!! Sounds like a fair trade eh?


----------



## LethalCorpse

Fine by me, if I ever need a heart bypass, and you're fully qualified to perform it, I'd be happy to wire your beerfridge, TV, computer and anything else that needs hooking up. In the meantime, you stick to the ELVAD wires and I'll handle the copper.


----------



## moovet

LethalCorpse said:


> Fine by me, if I ever need a heart bypass, and you're fully qualified to perform it, I'd be happy to wire your beerfridge, TV, computer and anything else that needs hooking up. In the meantime, you stick to the ELVAD wires and I'll handle the copper.




Will do. Cheers.


----------



## goomboogo

moovet said:


> Thanks Rendo much appreciated.
> 
> Interesting what you say about the heart bypass surgery LC as I could probably help you with that. Tell you what, when the time comes I'll trade you a bypass for a fully functional beerfridge then nobody dies!! Sounds like a fair trade eh?



Do you know anyone in orthopaedics who would do a posterior spinal fusion in exchange for a couple cartons of home brew? I've got a passable APA and BPA at the moment.


----------



## mjfs

MCT said:


> Here you go LC.




thanks for posting this been looking for some instructions for a couple of weeks now, just got a massive fridge off my mate for free, im ready to brew some beer! :icon_cheers:


----------



## husky

edit:nevermind, problem solved


----------



## herbo

husky said:


> can someone please tell me what the four functions F1, F2, F3 and F4 are on the ebay temp controller?
> Mine is all wired up but I have lost the destructions on how to use it.
> cheers



Husky,

Try this http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...st&id=35442

It's on page 4 of this thread.

So far this temp controller has been great. Has been keeping a pretty accurate temp for me


----------



## rendo

+1

I have had mine running solid for a month now, hasnt missed a beat, temp is great, I have a good fridge too which helps (4 yrs old, good seals etc)

ebay temp controller = happiness....

I am sure the ones from our sponsors are a little more reputable and you have the support of a local retailer who will genuinely care if you have a problem, with the ebay one....well ur on ur own 



herbo said:


> Husky,
> 
> Try this http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...st&id=35442
> 
> It's on page 4 of this thread.
> 
> So far this temp controller has been great. Has been keeping a pretty accurate temp for me


----------



## Phoney

I am looking to buy one of these to control my mash temperature on my electric urn. (I already have a tempmate for my fermentation fridge) 

So I need the probe to go through the lid of the urn and then be immersed in the wort. Can anyone tell me if the Temperature Controller Stainless Steel Probe from Craftbrewer would be compatible with this unit?

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955



Also, at $32 for the probe + $34.80 for the ebay unit, would I better off buying a temperature controller with probe for an additional $22?


----------



## moovet

My ebay thermostat arrived. Took it to a local sparky who is quoted $200 + GST including materials. Seems a bit steep when folk here are able to put it together in an hour with 20-$30 materials.

M


----------



## Fourstar

moovet said:


> My ebay thermostat arrived. Took it to a local sparky who is quoted $200 + GST including materials. Seems a bit steep when folk here are able to put it together in an hour with 20-$30 materials.
> 
> M



Thats abit much but considering its labour thats always the costy part, im not suprised.

sounds like you need a friend in the trade.


----------



## moovet

Fourstar said:


> sounds like you need a friend in the trade.



Sounds like I do. Maybe someone who would like some of my fresh honey straight from the hive for some mead-making. Will be harvesting again next week!!


----------



## Pete2501

Fourstar said:


> Thats abit much but considering its labour thats always the costy part, im not suprised.
> 
> sounds like you need a friend in the trade.



Kinda. But that $20 - $30 dollars voids you're insurance policy. For $200 you get a new $200k house if there's an electrical fire.


----------



## benno1973

moovet said:


> Sounds like I do. Maybe someone who would like some of my fresh honey straight from the hive for some mead-making. Will be harvesting again next week!!



Where are you located? If you're in Perth, while I'm not an electrician I'd be happy to wire it for you and get my mate (who _is_ an electrician) to check it over.


----------



## Pete2501

moovet said:


> Sounds like I do. Maybe someone who would like some of my fresh honey straight from the hive for some mead-making. Will be harvesting again next week!!



:icon_offtopic: Can you make a video of you harvesting the honey then the process/steps in making it? That would be an epic thread to post. I know there's been rising interest in mead on the forums myself included.


----------



## gava

I called my insurance firm to confirm this when i got a mate to rig mine up.. Said it was fine it wont void my house insurance.. 
Although I think I paid more for some extras..



Pete2501 said:


> Kinda. But that $20 - $30 dollars voids you're insurance policy. For $200 you get a new $200k house if there's an electrical fire.


----------



## Spoonta

pete if you want to wach and get some honey straight from the hive let me know


----------



## barls

moovet said:


> Sounds like I do. Maybe someone who would like some of my fresh honey straight from the hive for some mead-making. Will be harvesting again next week!!


are you near sydney?


----------



## moovet

Thanks guys for the offers but I am in the Eastern suburbs of Melbourne. Might try and find another sparky to see if they quote something similar.


----------



## rendo

try another sparky for sure....sounds expensive.

Sounds like a sweet trade (pun sort of intended) too bad I am in sydney.  Sorry Moovet.

Maybe ask a few people at work if they know or are related to an electrician etc....

Regardless, once you get this puppy up and running, you wont look back, expensive or not, your beers will be so much better. Cold crashing, constant fermenting temps, lagers all year round....no more off flavours or 30deg fermentation....its just the ducks nuts!!!



moovet said:


> Thanks guys for the offers but I am in the Eastern suburbs of Melbourne. Might try and find another sparky to see if they quote something similar.


----------



## pokolbinguy

Sounds like the sparkie just priced himself out of a job because they didn't want to do it. Just find another brewer/friend/relo that can do it for beer.


----------



## benno1973

Or maybe try a small appliance repair shop? Or a tv repair shop? Both options would probably be more open to doing the work, and often have a shopfront that you can deliver the unit to, rather than them having to make the house call. Also, try to provide all the parts so they are just quoting on the labour. The parts (over and above the thermostat itself) shouldn't cost more than around $20 to buy at Dick Smith or Jaycar.


----------



## moovet

Kaiser Soze said:


> Or maybe try a small appliance repair shop? Or a tv repair shop? Both options would probably be more open to doing the work, and often have a shopfront that you can deliver the unit to, rather than them having to make the house call. Also, try to provide all the parts so they are just quoting on the labour. The parts (over and above the thermostat itself) shouldn't cost more than around $20 to buy at Dick Smith or Jaycar.



Yeah I like that idea Kaiser


Cheers


----------



## Pete2501

Spoonta said:


> pete if you want to wach and get some honey straight from the hive let me know



That sounds like a good idea. A start to finish vid of making some mead.


----------



## Phoney

Kaiser Soze said:


> The parts (over and above the thermostat itself) shouldn't cost more than around $20 to buy at Dick Smith or Jaycar.




When I built my tempmate the parts were as follows:

Instrument case frm Jaycar: $19.95
2x AC power inputs from John R Turk that fit into the rear panel of the instrument case: $38
Old computer power cables: Free
Getting a mate to wire it up for me: Priceless (nah, actually I gave him a half a dozen bottles of beer) 

So $58 + beer, + $74.95 for the tempmate (or $36 for this ebay jobbie)


----------



## benno1973

Project box from DS: $5.95
Extension cord: ~$5
Terminal strip: ~$4
Cable glands/screws/odds and sods: ~$5


----------



## Fourstar

Kaiser Soze said:


> Project box from DS: $5.95
> Extension cord: ~$5
> Terminal strip: ~$4
> Cable glands/screws/odds and sods: ~$5



mine was more like this except i got a AC power point - slimline on mine for the fridge connector and the extension cord was a 3M jobby @ 8 bucks.


----------



## [email protected]

Got mine set up over the weekend works an absolute treat


----------



## ramu_gupta

nelsonbrewer said:


> Got mine set up over the weekend works an absolute treat



Yeah me too... Thanks to all AHB members for the advice and photos. Now I gotta good excuse to brew ....


----------



## Wolfy

kelbygreen said:


> I wired mine up as per the fridgemate. Throw away them crap instructions you will get no where looking at them. mine is still going but need to get a box not to safe sitting on the concrete with wires going everywhere. At least I am the only one that goes into the shed





kelbygreen said:


> yep them instructions are very helpfull :lol: but it is easy to figure out once you look at the tempmate wiring posted over this site. Has any one tested these units for acuracy???


Ebay feedback must have made it all the way to AHB.
Mine arrived with an additional instruction sheet, which I think is actually easier to understand then the tempmate one:


----------



## Wolfy

As a backup to my Tempmate and to be used infrequently only to cold-crash and lager, there was no need to get fancy:
STC-1000 - $31.56
2x 3m extension cords - $7
Plastic box - $1
Terminal block and some cable ties.




Holes and wires cut and ready.




All wired up.




And tucked away neatly.


----------



## goomboogo

Wolfy, that is a very flash looking jiffy box. They're very versatile. Temp controllers, stir plates and you can even put your lunch in them. I've got the same controller in the drawer here. It's about time I got it hooked up so I think I'll pick up one of these multi-purpose boxes.


----------



## Wolfy

goomboogo said:


> Wolfy, that is a very flash looking jiffy box. They're very versatile.


Microwave and freezer proof too, both very useful I'm sure. :blink:


----------



## Yeastie Beastie

Wolfy said:


> As a backup to my Tempmate and to be used infrequently only to cold-crash and lager, there was no need to get fancy:
> STC-1000 - $31.56
> 2x 3m extension cords - $7
> Plastic box - $1
> Terminal block and some cable ties.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holes and wires cut and ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All wired up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And tucked away neatly.



Are you able to clarify what is on the end of each white cable, which are male and which are female, which is to mains etc?


----------



## jiesu

Great Idea with the cable tie heads to stop the leads being pulled out. 
I have to admit Barls did a nice job of hooking mine up to an old extension cable in about 5 minutes. 
I just cut a hole in the cardboard box mine came in and rigged it in that although i am thinking it might be a wise 
idea to try out the Tupperware alternative. I better wait for this brew to finish first


----------



## Yeastie Beastie

I have spent some time tinkering with this and have attempted to draw up some schematics for the wiring of the STC-1000.
I had a leco hardwire mine to my fridge and now want to make up a protable unit too.

I did it from the photo earlier and am hoping for some feedback to see if it 100% correct as to the photo.

EDIT: The cables in the diagram are respective to their position in the box in the photo, as is the cable connector.
EDIT: Added original photo too. 
EDIT: I am assuming the bottom "Lead" is the main power supply but am unsure as yet which is which with the left and right "Leads"

Please ensure you have everything installed by a licenced electrician and save your own life etc...If you do attempt this yourself you are doing it at YOUR own risk!!!
*PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS DRAWING AS A WIRING DIAGRAM UNTIL IT IS 100% CORRECT - YOUR HOUSE AND BEER MAY BURN DOWN AS A RESULT, AND WE WOULDN'T WANT THAT NOW WOULD WE!!! *


----------



## Wolfy

Yeastie Beastie said:


> Are you able to clarify what is on the end of each white cable, which are male and which are female, which is to mains etc?


Here is the finished unit, should answer your questions.




The wiring diagram provided with the unit should be all you need to put it together: http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x37/k_w...eer/stc1000.jpg


----------



## Yeastie Beastie

Wolfy said:


> Here is the finished unit, should answer your questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The wiring diagram provided with the unit should be all you need to put it together: http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x37/k_w...eer/stc1000.jpg



Assumtion being the mother of all mistakes but I am assuming the green tie is cooling and the red tie heating? 
Im just confused as they seem to be coming from the opposite sides?


----------



## Wolfy

Yeastie Beastie said:


> Assumtion being the mother of all mistakes but I am assuming the green tie is cooling and the red tie heating?


That's the theory, but follow the wiring diagram not what I did - I tend to make things up as I go along.
If you look really-really closely to the pictures above, you might notice, I actually had the green-tie-cord attached to the heating circuit - so follow the correct diagram not what I did.


----------



## Yeastie Beastie

Wolfy said:


> That's the theory, but follow the wiring diagram not what I did - I tend to make things up as I go along.
> If you look really-really closely to the pictures above, you might notice, I actually had the green-tie-cord attached to the heating circuit - so follow the correct diagram not what I did.




Cheers mate, all sorted....good to see people guessing.


----------



## Florian

Thanks for the pics Wolfy, they helped me a lot. I initially wired it up according to a description for the fridgemate (I think), which is slightly different. worked, but didn't cool when supposed to, so just did it from your pics, and it works perfectly now. 
I know that the diagram supplied is all I need, but a real photo says more than 1000 diagrams...


----------



## raven19

Got around to ordering one of these units and it arrived today in the mail.

Its a tiny little unit! Will grab a jiffy box, etc tomorrow.


----------



## Maheel

Hi all, fairly new to the site but have been brewing spirts for years but am going to go back to beer for a while  stove top BIAB  ...... scored a free fridge and am going to buy one of these controllers to run it.

I have question 

when you want it on "heat" do you pull the plug from the cooling side so the fridge does not come on? or does the controller just not turn on any cooling?

eg temp here is around 10-20 if i want it to run +- (1) @ 17 what happens if it's all plugged in.

eg. at night heater comes on a bit, during the day the cooling "might" come on if needed.

thanks 
Maheel


----------



## Wolfy

Maheel said:


> when you want it on "heat" do you pull the plug from the cooling side so the fridge does not come on? or does the controller just not turn on any cooling?


It depends on your temperature controller.
If you had a "Fridgemate" or similar controller, they can only switch on/off heating OR cooling so with those you need to manually swap the plugs and switch it into heating or cooling mode.
However, for these ebay-controllers or a "Tempmate" they automatically switch between heating and cooling, and only one will operate at a time.

I currently have a 'London Ale' fermenting in the fridge, the ebay-type-controller set at 20DegC +- 0.3.
So at night when the temp drops below 19.7 the heat-belt is turned on on, and in the day if it gets over 20.3 the fridge is turned on - only one of those occurs at a given time, and the circuit is switched off when the temp reaches 20DegC.


----------



## Maheel

many thanks Wolfy 

that makes it clear, time to buy one of these "ebay" ones and get brewing


----------



## raven19

raven19 said:


> Got around to ordering one of these units and it arrived today in the mail.
> 
> Its a tiny little unit! Will grab a jiffy box, etc tomorrow.



Whipped this up last week - use an IEC plug for power in too.

All bits from Jaycar (no affiliations, etc).


----------



## LethalCorpse

Looks the good, Quoth, WD.


----------



## Murdoch

Great job there Raven ....... looks good
I used the project box next sized down from Jaycar
But I just used extension cords for power in & out ......... not as flash as yours
How did you cut the holes ?
I used a jigsaw but the heat of the blade seemed to "weld" the cut closed again as it sliced through  
In the end I just used a hacksaw blade by hand & followed the previous cut that now looked like a plastic weld


----------



## Yeastie Beastie

Murdoch said:


> Great job there Raven ....... looks good
> I used the project box next sized down from Jaycar
> But I just used extension cords for power in & out ......... not as flash as yours
> How did you cut the holes ?
> I used a jigsaw but the heat of the blade seemed to "weld" the cut closed again as it sliced through
> In the end I just used a hacksaw blade by hand & followed the previous cut that now looked like a plastic weld



Invest in a holesaw, great tool to just have around.

For anyone worried about accuracy, don't. I stood mine along my Fridgemate, dial thermo, and alcohol filled thermo (not me with a wet finger) during a cold and warm test. All read the same but the STC 1000 has 0.5 deg increments of course.


----------



## Trusty1

I've just bought one of these fellas, have knocked up a box for it and will be hooking it up to a mates fridge I am acting as a custodian for as soon as the controller turns up. Bought some used HB gear from a bloke around the corner which included a fermenter and a heat pad that will have a new home in the (mates) fridge.


----------



## Drew

Yeastie and Raven - love the look of the recessed sockets. Where are these from? I had a look on jaycar website but couldn't see any. I assume they come ready to mount? I reckon it's got the style factor that having the 3 cables running out doesn't have. IEC for input power will also be nice 

Got my thermostat in the mail and just need to pick up the parts.


----------



## gap

Try CAT PS4094 in Jaycar Catalogue.

Regards

Graeme


----------



## Drew

Thanks - that's perfect!

I bought all my bits - just waiting on the thermostat to arrive. I'm hoping to squash it all into a 20 x 11 Jiffy box but fear it may be too tight, we'll see.

What IEC connector do people use? I picked up Cat PP4003





However the Jiffy box is 3mm thick, but the switch seems to indicate it will only handle 1mm thickness. If I stretch the little tabs perhaps it will work. Has anyone else made this work?



gap said:


> Try CAT PS4094 in Jaycar Catalogue.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Graeme


----------



## pokolbinguy

Drew said:


> However the Jiffy box is 3mm thick, but the switch seems to indicate it will only handle 1mm thickness. If I stretch the little tabs perhaps it will work. Has anyone else made this work?



you can cut the tabs so they are shorter. Just use a pair of side cutters/scissors


----------



## LethalCorpse

The tabs are stepped, and I've used them in boxes up to 5mm thick.


----------



## Drew

LethalCorpse said:


> The tabs are stepped, and I've used them in boxes up to 5mm thick.



Funny, they don't look stepped... i'll give it a go.

In the meantime I've bought a few different project boxes because I want one that's small as possible without being too small. I'll end up returning half a dozen unused ones once I'm done


----------



## raven19

Drew said:


> Yeastie and Raven - love the look of the recessed sockets. Where are these from? I had a look on jaycar website but couldn't see any. I assume they come ready to mount? I reckon it's got the style factor that having the 3 cables running out doesn't have. IEC for input power will also be nice



Sorry I missed your question - I used the IEC Male Chassis Plug. This fixes to the outside of the jiffy box. I also used similar on my Kettle electrics. Part # PP4005

Linky: Here - no affiliations, etc...

I did not bother with the version with a built in switch, as it will always be plugged in and on at my place!

To cut the jiffy boxes, I concur on holesaws - however I had access to a jigsaw also. It does melt, but I found drilling all 4 corners plus some more random holes with a normal drill then linking the holes with the jigsaw worked ok. It still melted, but with a second cut / grinding using the jigsaw blade I got there eventually.

I had a few spare old PC monitor cables hanging around too - so I just needed the male chassis plug.


----------



## raven19

pokolbinguy said:


> you can cut the tabs so they are shorter. Just use a pair of side cutters/scissors



For sure, or a stanley knife.

I went the plug mounted on the outside to avoid this issue as per the above post. But the included switch units are very tidy!


----------



## Drew

raven19 said:


> For sure, or a stanley knife.
> 
> I went the plug mounted on the outside to avoid this issue as per the above post. But the included switch units are very tidy!



I did see the chassis plug with the mounting holes - but I prefer having less metal going from inside to outside of the box. I've been considering whether to use a 3.5 mm plug for the sensor - but again adding metal to the outside of an unearthed unit seems as though it wouldn't meet the 'double insulated' definition. I've now bought another box (my third one...LOL) which is 2mm thick so should be able to make it work with the switched IEC.

I'm really keen to do this now c'mon postage...!


----------



## coe-crl

A quick tip for the hasty ones amongst us. Arrange all the components in the way you want them mounted and make sure you've got enough space inside your box for the wiring. If I did mine again I would have offset the unit to leave more space for plugs, or alternatively used the box lengthwise rather than widthwise.


----------



## Drew

Good pint chris.

I've actually bought three boxes now and have been laying out all the items trying to figure out how it will all fit.

The first was the 19.7x11 jiffy box from jaycar (same that you used?) but I think it's going to be too tight with the inbuilt mains sockets and IEC socket that I want to use. So then I got a slightly bigger polycarb from DSE - but it's really thick material. Then I got this one 





and being 20 x 16 cm I think it will be perfect! I'd like the smaller box to work, but don't want all those 240v wires too cramped.

I assume they'll let me return the unused boxes!

Funny actually - I took the jiffy box, outlets and wire etc to the counter, and the staff member said "are you building a beer thermostat?"!


----------



## coe-crl

Well, at least you can't fault them for knowing their stuff!!!

Yeah, I used a small box because I'm a tightarse and it cost about $7, while the bigger ones were double the price or more. Everything fits in okay, but could be tidier with a bit better planning.


----------



## dr K

These controllers are rather good.
Mashematics (disclaimer I have financial interest in Mashematics) sell these for a tad more than the HK supplier ..currently $44 to your door in just a few days..www.mashematics.net.. but the savings you may make being an account customer by picking up the odd bargain from mashematics..(web-site under constant construction) may put a smile on your face.
Brickbats via the mashematics site thank you.

K


----------



## Yeastie Beastie

Drew said:


> Good pint chris.
> 
> I've actually bought three boxes now and have been laying out all the items trying to figure out how it will all fit.
> 
> The first was the 19.7x11 jiffy box from jaycar (same that you used?) but I think it's going to be too tight with the inbuilt mains sockets and IEC socket that I want to use. So then I got a slightly bigger polycarb from DSE - but it's really thick material. Then I got this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and being 20 x 16 cm I think it will be perfect! I'd like the smaller box to work, but don't want all those 240v wires too cramped.
> 
> I assume they'll let me return the unused boxes!
> 
> Funny actually - I took the jiffy box, outlets and wire etc to the counter, and the staff member said "are you building a beer thermostat?"!




Similar to the one I used in post #171 in this thread.


----------



## sluggerdog

pokolbinguy said:


> Ok got to wiring my unit up.
> 
> I checked it against my Fridgemate and also the Tempmate thread and I'm pretty darn sure I have it all correct.
> 
> BUT before I plug it in I am going to wait till I get some feedback to say its right.
> 
> Haven't wired in the sensor yet...but want the other wiring checked.
> 
> Cheers, Pok
> 
> View attachment 35420




Any chance someone has a picture / photo like this but without the switch included? I'm pretty sure I know what I need to do however I would prefer if I could see someone elses. I will be using the STC-1000 with heating only (at this stage).

EDIT: DAMN the quote didin't include the picture: see here: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...mp;#entry591068


Thanks


----------



## drsmurto

LethalCorpse said:


> Looks the good, Quoth, WD.



They look so good Lethal that i got the raven to wire up 2 for me. He obviously knows what he is doing and i have shown i am capable of electrocuting myself changing a lightbulb (true story).

So now i have 2 el cheapo tempmates fully wired up for the grand total cost of $140 (which includes the cost of the 2 units) plus a few beers for the raven. :beerbang:


----------



## komodo

Love these things! Im getting me another 2. One for another fermenting fridge and I'm "toying" with the idea of a small fridge for cheese and trial batches. I think I have a fetish for temperature controlled fridges...


----------



## raven19

DrSmurto said:


> They look so good Lethal that i got the raven to wire up 2 for me. He obviously knows what he is doing and i have shown i am capable of electrocuting myself changing a lightbulb (true story).
> 
> So now i have 2 el cheapo tempmates fully wired up for the grand total cost of $140 (which includes the cost of the 2 units) plus a few beers for the raven. :beerbang:



Will have to post some piccies tonight if I remember of the latest efforts.

I reckon I spotted on of these controllers in the Lobethal Bierhaus the other week too through the viewing area of the brewery! (Hence we must be onto a good thing!)


----------



## drsmurto

Komodo said:


> Love these things! Im getting me another 2. One for another fermenting fridge and I'm "toying" with the idea of a small fridge for cheese and trial batches. I think I have a fetish for temperature controlled fridges...



I'll be using one of these to germinate vegie seeds and to keep the seedlings growing until its warm enough to plant out.

And i understand the addiction to fridges, i have 4 being used for brewing and another dead one i havent thrown out. :blink:


----------



## raven19

DrSmurto said:


> They look so good Lethal that i got the raven to wire up 2 for me.



Here they are in all their glory! :icon_cheers:


----------



## drsmurto

raven19 said:


> Here they are in all their glory! :icon_cheers:
> 
> View attachment 39409



:wub:


----------



## MeLoveBeer

Raven, they look porn... you should do the math on materials, labour etc and resell them to fund your brewing.

Maybe compile a how to?


----------



## raven19

MeLoveBeer said:


> Raven, they look porn... you should do the math on materials, labour etc and resell them to fund your brewing.
> 
> Maybe compile a how to?



I appreciate the kind words, but I am by no means a sparky - all learnt reading other posts on this great forum and other bits I have picked up around the traps.

The wiring is pretty straight forward as per posts in the Craftbrewer Tempmate thread iirc.

Other materials set us back a total of around $140 for two (as per Dr S's post above). So $70 each including the temp unit itself.

Tools used - jigsaw with wood blade, drill, pliers, screwdrivers.


----------



## MeLoveBeer

You've inspired me guys... just ordered one of the temp controllers and am well on my way to having complete temp control (finally).

Raven, any chance you've got a list of the part numbers I need to make it happen? (it'd be nice to walk in to jaycar with a list of proven components, but can fumble my way through if need be)

I've already for the details for the Chassis Power Plug (PP4005 IEC320 Male Chassis Power Plug)


----------



## Acasta

MeLoveBeer said:


> You've inspired me guys... just ordered one of the temp controllers and am well on my way to having complete temp control (finally).
> 
> Raven, any chance you've got a list of the part numbers I need to make it happen? (it'd be nice to walk in to jaycar with a list of proven components, but can fumble my way through if need be)
> 
> I've already for the details for the Chassis Power Plug (PP4005 IEC320 Male Chassis Power Plug)


 +1, would love to see the parts you've used.

Also, did u use wolfy's wireing?


----------



## chadjaja

To power a HLT you have the hi and low set points that you have to change as brew day goes from strike temp to sparge. What does the set point do itself? Its seperate from the hi and low so does that change with each setting change to the low temp limit?


----------



## Silo Ted

Most of the discussion is around using these devices for cooling control, or occsional heating at fermentation temperatures. How well would this work as a mash day addition, with the temp controller switching on/off an electric kettle element at 65 degrees. I am looking at one on ebay now that is operates up to 99 degrees. How would the lead and the probe stand up to higher temperatures fully immersed? Is the device OK for switching on & off regularly within a 0.5 degree range several times through a one to two hour period? 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item4151ae21ac


----------



## Wolfy

@*Silo Ted*, the probe (as you can see in the Ebay picture) is a small plastic/rubber type one, so I'd not be too confident on it being suitable for heating mash liquor.
(But I have no evidence to back that up, just looking at mine I don't think it would last in the situation you outlined).


----------



## Banshee

Silo Ted said:


> Most of the discussion is around using these devices for cooling control, or occsional heating at fermentation temperatures. How well would this work as a mash day addition, with the temp controller switching on/off an electric kettle element at 65 degrees. I am looking at one on ebay now that is operates up to 99 degrees. How would the lead and the probe stand up to higher temperatures fully immersed? Is the device OK for switching on & off regularly within a 0.5 degree range several times through a one to two hour period?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Digital-Temper...=item4151ae21ac



I use two in my brew system. 
One is a thermostat which i use in my HLT
Second is a thermometer which I use in my mash tun.

The thermpmeter probe in the mash tun (kettle) is place inside my pickup pipe. I turn my pick up pipe so it is facing up and place the probe down the tube. This way when I stir the mash it does not get tangled.

I have had them for years and no problems with em.


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## Silo Ted

Thanks Wolfy that was a concern I had too, the long term performance of plastic probe and cable. Apart from that, is the electronic device accurate under hot liquid conditions? 

Banshee - with your HLT setup do you use an after market SS probe and temp-rated insulated cable, or have you found the standard probe to be fine after repeated use? Just looking at the SS probe on Craftbrewer, but not sure if this is compatible with the cheap ebay controllers. I would be looking at only one unit that can be moved from mash day to fermentation fridge when I get one. So a probe wont be hard installed in the kettle but just dangle in there. 

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955


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## Banshee

Silo Ted said:


> Banshee - with your HLT setup do you use an after market SS probe and temp-rated insulated cable, or have you found the standard probe to be fine after repeated use? Just looking at the SS probe on Craftbrewer, but not sure if this is compatible with the cheap ebay controllers. I would be looking at only one unit that can be moved from mash day to fermentation fridge when I get one. So a probe wont be hard installed in the kettle but just dangle in there.
> 
> http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=955



I use the probe that came with it. The one with the little rubber tip.
I have compared the temp with various thermometers and it is very accurate.
I use mine on my fermaentaion fridge as a guide as I use a liquid filled analogue thermostat in my fridges.


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## raven19

I use one for my HLT, with the probe inside a beerbelly thermowell. Works a treat.


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## Silo Ted

Thanks, think I will grab myself one. Before I do, can someone explain to me what a PID controller is, and how does it differ from the the temperature controllers being discussed on this thread?


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## LethalCorpse

PID stands for Proportional, Integral and Differential. An on/off controller like most of those discussed here is very simple - when the measured temp is below the setpoint, its output is on, when it's above the setpoint, it's off (or vice-versa for one controlling a cooler rather than a heater). A PID controller has a variable output, dependant on the difference between the measured temp and the setpoint (the error). Its output is the sum of three values: P - proportional to the current error , I - proportional to the integral of the error (the sum of all previous errors - allows it to approach the correct value over time) and D - proportional to the derivative of the error, (used to overcome fast changes in error). More information here


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## felon

I would love to have one to control my HLT but I run a 3600w element 15A. I am not confident enough yet to work out how to set up a relay to switch from this unit. 
P.s My one has just arrived and I am currently wiring it to run a second fermentation/conditioning fridge.


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## Banshee

felon said:


> I would love to have one to control my HLT but I run a 3600w element 15A. I am not confident enough yet to work out how to set up a relay to switch from this unit.
> P.s My one has just arrived and I am currently wiring it to run a second fermentation/conditioning fridge.



Look here they have 16amp ones which means no need for a relay.

http://www.kegking.com.au/Downloads/Catalo...rice%20List.pdf


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## LethalCorpse

felon said:


> I would love to have one to control my HLT but I run a 3600w element 15A. I am not confident enough yet to work out how to set up a relay to switch from this unit.
> P.s My one has just arrived and I am currently wiring it to run a second fermentation/conditioning fridge.


If you're not confident enough to hook it up to a relay, why the hell do you think you're fine to wire it up to run a fridge?


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## felon

I have just rewired my house and garage with the help of a sparky mate. All of my circuits are RCD protected including 32A 415V in my garage. General wiring is easy and help is just a phone call away. If I let the smoke out of a 20 year old fridge that's a great excuse to upgrade my fridge knowing that my house won't burn down.


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## leonjw

Hi Everyone

Does anyone know what the specs are for the NTC probe that comes with the STC1000 mini temp controllers off ebay?

I am looking at making myself a new probe for my temp controller but don't know what NTC thermistor to buy 

Any help would be great. 

cheers


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## Defacto

sorry to bump this thread, but raven's case looks damn good. raven where did you get your case/supporting parts from?


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## Silo Ted

Defacto said:


> sorry to bump this thread, but raven's case looks damn good. raven where did you get your case/supporting parts from?



Looks like the one I used, its about $6 from Jaycar.


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## MeLoveBeer

Defacto said:


> sorry to bump this thread, but raven's case looks damn good. raven where did you get your case/supporting parts from?



As Silo Ted said it's from Jaycar... if I remember tonight I'll post the complete jaycar part list if you're interested (just brought all the parts to wire up another one this weekend).


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## MeLoveBeer

As promised, this is the list of part numbers from Jaycar I used to wire up my stc-1000:

1 x HB6012 Black Enclosure (197x113x63mm), $6.95 Ea
2 x PS4094 SKT PNL Mains Aus White, $7.95 Ea
1 x HM3204 Terminal block, $4.95 Ea
1 x PP4009 Plg Pnl IEC320 Snap In, $4.95

Note that the terminal block I brought is a 12way 60A, so you could go smaller if they have stock (which they didn't at my local) and I already had the wire and power cord to hook it all up.


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## Defacto

you guys are absolute legends!!!!


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## raven19

Yep Jaycar was where I went to get all my goodies for the build.


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## pimpsqueak

Just finished wiring and mounting my STC1000. Tested and it works a beaut.
Wanted to say thanks for all the handy contributions in this thread. (I was fine working off the supplied wiring diagram, but it doesn't hurt to have a peek at what others are doing.

Now to find an appropriate fridge...


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## ada

Done a few brews with my stc 1000 now, bloody fantastic 

















View attachment fridge_controller.pdf


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## rude

Love seeing pics, whats that blue thing in you're fridge ada & do youput youre probe against the side of your'e fermenter.

Here's a few pics of my fridge mate nothing flash but it gets the job done


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## ada

rude said:


> Love seeing pics, whats that blue thing in you're fridge ada & do youput youre probe against the side of your'e fermenter.



The blue thing is a heat pad.

As for the temp probe, I have a stainless one now not as per photo, I have used it both in the wort and against the fermenter, I honestly believe it is best off against the fermenter not in the wort (here we go again) 

Probe against the fermenter, the fridge air temp swings about +- 1.5 degree, wort temp swings hardly measurable 

Probe in the wort, fridge air temp swings about +- 8 degree, wort temp swings about +- 1.5 degree


Obviously the settings in my controller will change my readings but they are the best I could manage and yes I have good measuring gear. 
I fully agree with the argument that fermenting wort will create some heat and it will be slightly higher than fridge air temp so controlling the wort is more accurate however I dont think the cyclic nature of on/off control is much good for your wort either.


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## justahobby

hi all,

i bought a stc 1000 and having heaps of trouble....

i did what the instructions said and the dam thing will start for 1 second then off again.... i want it wired straight into the freezer on the side and have done it once before with a different model... the problem i think is that this freezer has a capacitor.

anyone who can help or show me a wire diagram that would be awesome.

cheers sean


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## pimpsqueak

justahobby said:


> hi all,
> 
> i bought a stc 1000 and having heaps of trouble....
> 
> i did what the instructions said and the dam thing will start for 1 second then off again.... i want it wired straight into the freezer on the side and have done it once before with a different model... the problem i think is that this freezer has a capacitor.
> 
> anyone who can help or show me a wire diagram that would be awesome.
> 
> cheers sean



Try here... http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...45747&st=20
There are a few other threads with wiring diagrams in them too I believe.


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## barabool

Got my STC1000 from eBay and instructions were in Chinese so very happy for all these posts and instructions. Thanks to Wolfy - your diagrams worked a treat. After a quick trip to Bunnings - outlaying an extra $12 (2 extension cords, plastic clip lunch box, cable ties and joiner) 
My daughter asked if I was building a bomb!!! LOL
Wired up and running great. I don't have a heating appliance but have wired it up anyway.
Heard of some people using a lamp and others a heating pad. Any suggestions?


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## michael_aussie

Bara said:


> Got my STC1000 from eBay and instructions were in Chinese so very happy for all these posts and instructions. Thanks to Wolfy - your diagrams worked a treat. After a quick trip to Bunnings - outlaying an extra $12 (2 extension cords, plastic clip lunch box, cable ties and joiner)
> My daughter asked if I was building a bomb!!! LOL
> Wired up and running great. I don't have a heating appliance but have wired it up anyway.
> Heard of some people using a lamp and others a heating pad. Any suggestions?


I use a standard (although harder to buy now days) incandescent globe.
Only need low wattage = 40W or even 20W may be enough depending on how effective your insulation is.


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## raven19

Others put the globe under an earthernware pot inside the fridge, to reduce any possible light effects on the brew, and to provide a more even heat output.


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## barabool

raven19 said:


> Others put the globe under an earthernware pot inside the fridge, to reduce any possible light effects on the brew, and to provide a more even heat output.


 Was wondering about that - and also condensation. Earthenware pots....I thought of possibly using red cellophane..lol
Are the heat pads just no good, I thought they would be perfect - water proof heat from bottom or wrap around and also dont take much space.
I don't want to heat the fridge just the brew. 

Cheers


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## raven19

Trying not to drag this too far :icon_offtopic: however I use a heat pad in one of my fridges, and a heat belt in my other ferment fridge.

Both work fine with varying temp levels and varying moisture levels (my older fridge condenses all moisture in the air resulting in puddles in the bottom of the fridge!)


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## Nevalicious

As previously mentioned, an incandescent globe, somewhere around 40-60W will work just fine, with no ill effects of light strike. All of my ales last year were warmed up this way over winter to ferment temp in a fridge of course...


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## pimpsqueak

Nevalicious said:


> As previously mentioned, an incandescent globe, somewhere around 40-60W will work just fine, with no ill effects of light strike. All of my ales last year were warmed up this way over winter to ferment temp in a fridge of course...



Why a bulb over a heating belt? Cost?


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## raven19

pimpsqueak said:


> Why a bulb over a heating belt? Cost?



Yup, guilty as charged for most of us tight ass brewers!  

(My heat pad/belt were given to me as gifts).


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## pimpsqueak

raven19 said:


> Yup, guilty as charged for most of us tight ass brewers!
> 
> (My heat pad/belt were given to me as gifts).



Sweet! My heating belt came with the package and I have yet to break it out.


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## Nevalicious

pimpsqueak said:


> Sweet! My heating belt came with the package and I have yet to break it out.



Ebay it, and buy a globe and batten holder (or rip one down from your living room ceiling h34r: )

Yes, it is well known, I am a tightarse


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## pimpsqueak

So many temperature controller threads, so I guess this one is as good as any...

Has anyone used a different temperature sensor on their STC1000?
I see it has an NTC type sensor as standard and has 2 wires running to the unit. Does this mean I can attach any sort of sensor/thermistor/thermocouple as long as it has 2 wires?

I scored a bloody cheap K type thermocouple with 2 wires which I would like to install in my BIAB pot, but I would like to get some more info before I start punching holes in stuff.

Apologies if this info is already in one of these threads, a search didn't seem to bring this topic up.


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## QldKev

Nevalicious said:


> Ebay it, and buy a globe and batten holder (or rip one down from your living room ceiling h34r: )
> 
> Yes, it is well known, I am a tightarse




even cheaper, live in qld and then you don't need to heat it; saves a light globe :icon_cheers:


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## pimpsqueak

pimpsqueak said:


> So many temperature controller threads, so I guess this one is as good as any...
> 
> Has anyone used a different temperature sensor on their STC1000?
> I see it has an NTC type sensor as standard and has 2 wires running to the unit. Does this mean I can attach any sort of sensor/thermistor/thermocouple as long as it has 2 wires?
> 
> I scored a bloody cheap K type thermocouple with 2 wires which I would like to install in my BIAB pot, but I would like to get some more info before I start punching holes in stuff.
> 
> Apologies if this info is already in one of these threads, a search didn't seem to bring this topic up.



Anyone have any info on this?


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## raven19

Pimp, my initial thought is why bother when the thermostat unit you get from evilbay or similar comes with a probe.

You could easily plug the other probe in to see if it reads the same temperatures - assuming a different probe will not damage the unit.


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## Nevalicious

FWIW, these are still going cheap. I bought a couple. They are indeed the STC1000's. I have to get another for Hatchy! Good little unit


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## pimpsqueak

The reason I am wanting to use a different probe is that the one with the unit is a plastic/rubber tip type thing and I am dubious about dangling it in the pot. Also, I could drill a hole in the pot for a thermowell, but I am a tight bastard and want to do this as cheaply as possible. I paid something like $5 for the new K type sensor and it can be mounted in the wall of the pot weldlessly, so I was hoping it would work. If not, I can always drill the hole out to take a proper thermowell and just use the original sensor. 

Lucky for me I like mucking about with this sort of thing, so it could provide a few hours of entertainment


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## pimpsqueak

Nevalicious said:


> FWIW, these are still going cheap. I bought a couple. They are indeed the STC1000's. I have to get another for Hatchy! Good little unit



I might have to stock up in case I fry my current one...


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## michael_aussie

Nevalicious said:


> FWIW, these are still going cheap. I bought a couple. They are indeed the STC1000's. I have to get another for Hatchy! Good little unit


omg $16.28 including postage.

That is soooo cheap!!!!

and I thought I was kissed on the arse buying them about 6 months ago at $33 each??


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## Wolfy

michael_aussie said:


> and I thought I was kissed on the arse buying them about 6 months ago at $33 each??


That was what I just paid 


... for two of them.


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## Deebo

MeLoveBeer said:


> As promised, this is the list of part numbers from Jaycar I used to wire up my stc-1000:
> 
> 1 x HB6012 Black Enclosure (197x113x63mm), $6.95 Ea
> 2 x PS4094 SKT PNL Mains Aus White, $7.95 Ea
> 1 x HM3204 Terminal block, $4.95 Ea
> 1 x PP4009 Plg Pnl IEC320 Snap In, $4.95
> 
> Note that the terminal block I brought is a 12way 60A, so you could go smaller if they have stock (which they didn't at my local) and I already had the wire and power cord to hook it all up.



Thanks for this list, just ordered the temp controller and the bits from jaycar online.


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## bigfridge

pimpsqueak said:


> The reason I am wanting to use a different probe is that the one with the unit is a plastic/rubber tip type thing and I am dubious about dangling it in the pot. Also, I could drill a hole in the pot for a thermowell, but I am a tight bastard and want to do this as cheaply as possible. I paid something like $5 for the new K type sensor and it can be mounted in the wall of the pot weldlessly, so I was hoping it would work. If not, I can always drill the hole out to take a proper thermowell and just use the original sensor.
> 
> Lucky for me I like mucking about with this sort of thing, so it could provide a few hours of entertainment



I beleive that you are out of luck.

Controllers for ambient temperatures (ie 0-100 Deg C) use NTC Thermisters as they provide a good accuracy (less than 0.5 deg) and are very cheap (only a few cents each).

The Type K termocouples are used for temperatures up in the hundreds or thousands of degree where being a few degrees out is not significant.

NTC Thermisters are resisters whose resiistance value changes with temperature - NTC stands for Negative Temperature Coefficient so their resistance decreases as the temperature increases. This means that the controller needs to measure the temperature probes resistance and any use a polynomial equation to calculate the temperature.

Thermocouples use 2 different metals to give a voltage that is proportional to the temperature so the controller just has to convert the voltage to temperature.

They are different things used for different purposes by measuring different physical characteristics with different accuracy.

HTH,
Dave


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## Deebo

MeLoveBeer said:


> As promised, this is the list of part numbers from Jaycar I used to wire up my stc-1000:
> 1 x PP4009 Plg Pnl IEC320 Snap In, $4.95



What is the correct way to connect wire to the above part? (On the wiring side it has the 3 pins with holes through them) but no screw type connection etc.


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## stux

Deebo said:


> What is the correct way to connect wire to the above part? (On the wiring side it has the 3 pins with holes through them) but no screw type connection etc.



I used http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...SUBCATID=1001#3 in my build

I just soldered the connections and used heat shrink insulation


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## Wolfy

Deebo said:


> What is the correct way to connect wire to the above part? (On the wiring side it has the 3 pins with holes through them) but no screw type connection etc.


On my 12V work (so much less critical than working with 240V) I strip the wires, push the wire through the hole and then twist it back over itself, add a good dob of solder so that it seals the hole and the wire and then use shrink-wrap to cover, protect and insulate it.

Something that I've noticed (with various appliances like washing machines) is that they solder the wire onto a small (plastic covered) plug (which I'm sure you can buy at JayCar, they are small/cheap/nasty) and use that to slide onto the pins.


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## dcvin

Sorry to bring an old thread back to life but was wondering if a bar freezer would be able to turn that into a incubator using the STC-1000? 

Or would i be better off buying a fridge?


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## claypot

dcvin said:


> Sorry to bring an old thread back to life but was wondering if a bar freezer would be able to turn that into a incubator using the STC-1000?
> 
> Or would i be better off buying a fridge?




Hey mate,
No problem with freezer. Would actually be better than a fridge as will most likely have better insulation, thus less run time and cycling.
I am looking to swap my beer serving fridge to a freezer for this reason, as my fridge is in the shed and struggles to keep temp during hot Adelaide heat waves.
The above temp controllers are good to keep temp with in 1 deg dependinging on set up. If you need a finer control a PID temp controller with a PT100 probe would be good to with in.2 degree depending on set up.
Cheers, Clayton.


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## hirns

Well, I've just wired up two of these ready to go. I've found heaps of threads on temp probe placement in relation to fermentaion, but nothing in relation to simple temp control for a serving fridge. My genuine kegorator has it behind the grill just off the bottom, whilst my bar fridge has the probe about half way up. I understand that cold air sinks, but that does not address the question of best position for overall controll. I'm guessing middle to even out the temp difference beteen top and bottom. Suggestions or am I splitting hairs???


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## pk.sax

Mine's in a bottle of water that sits on the hump.


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## hirns

Thanks PracticalFool,

I had read that, just needed reminding.


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## Wolfy

hirns said:


> Suggestions or am I splitting hairs???


You're probably splitting hairs. 
There is not any fermentation to increase the internal temp of the serving-fridge, so the only time it's going to change is when you open the door or due to cold-loss through the insulation, so the inside temperature should equalize quite quickly no matter where you measure it.
I have my fridge probe wedged between two kegs and insulated with a bit of foam, so in theory it's measuring the exact temperature of the beer.


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