# Braumeister Chiller Revisited



## Brew Matt (8/3/12)

After deciding that a 30 plate chiller (Chillout Mk3 or similar) was the way to go after speaking to some in the know, I have heard from others equally knowledgable backing immersion chiller (copper 14 meter or greater).

I had dismissed the immersion option, but the immersion/whirlpool argument put forward by Jamil (http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php) is a pretty convincing one - to the extent where it mentions changing from plate to immersion.

Seeking feedback, particularly with respect to the Braumeister 50L. I know Speidel make an immersion chiller themselves (which doesnt sell well; maybe for good reason?) - is anyone using using a better immersion chiller (or has anyone made a whirlpool chiller to suit)?

Some of the points mentioned in no order include: 

-The BM boil gets interrupted by the Immersion chiller when placed in wort for sterilization 20 minutes before end of boil
- Improved hop aroma for immersion/whirlpool without having to add a hop rocket or similar inline to plate chiller

Feedback invited.


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## Nick JD (8/3/12)

I wonder why BMs don't come with built-in chillers?


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## MHB (8/3/12)

The Braumeister Stainless immersion chiller is well made of good quality material problem is the designers had in mins 5-6oC tap water, not the 16-20oC more typical around here.
The Braumeister chiller should work very well with a pre-chiller; personally Im a big fan of counterflow chillers, either plate or tube in tube.
Mark


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## Florian (8/3/12)

Brew Matt said:


> -The BM boil gets interrupted by the Immersion chiller when placed in wort for sterilization 20 minutes before end of boil



This is one of the two main reasons that made my copper coil redundant. I guess if you incorporate the time it takes to reheat into your boil calculations you should be fine, I just couldn't be bothered. But it isn't too hard after all. 

The other thing to consider is, as Mark mentioned, the water temperature. I'm guessing that where you are the tap water is still quite warm all year round, so unless you chill your chill water you won't get below 20 degrees or even higher. Depends on what you wanna do I guess, but for my mainly lager brewing it just doesn't work. 
Obviously this applies to both immersion and plate chiller. 

Looks like you've finally decided to go down the BM route?


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## SJW (8/3/12)

I just finished an brew on the BM, and I used my old imersion chiller. Used the water tank water to get it down to 40 deg C, then a bucked of crushed ice water with a pump from a garden fountain in it to bring it down to 18 deg C. Took 15 min all up. To easy.


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## Sunshine_Brewer (8/3/12)

I like the idea of a stainless coil, my 10M copper coil has seen better days.
One trick to eliminate the boil losing it's vigour is to add the coil at the start of the boil. You do lose some volume but only a kettle or two.


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## DeGarre (9/3/12)

Hello all, my first post here downunder.

I have the Speidel chiller for my 20L BM and it is an absolute doddle to clean, just needs a little rinse, nothing sticks to it. I sanitise it by dumping it into a Starsan bucket and a few minutes before the end of boil start pasting the upper part of the coil with a ladle/starsan. 2 first times I brewed I dumped the chiller into the BM to sanitise but this interrupted the boil big time.

I get from 100 to 20 deg c in 20 minutes without whirlpooling but granted my water is 4 deg c in the winter and only couple of degrees warmer in the summer.


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## Stormahead (9/3/12)

I'm thinking a brown pump, plate chiller immersed in an esky of ice, pumping into the fermenter from the BM.


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## Malted (9/3/12)

Stormahead said:


> I'm thinking a brown pump, plate chiller immersed in an esky of ice, pumping into the fermenter from the BM.



I have not tried this but I do use a plate chiller gravity fed from the BM and notice the whole device doesn't really get hot, just the half where the hot wort goes in. It might be an inefficient way to use the ice. I reckon a prechiller might work better. 

I tried a big barrell of ice slurry and recirculated this through the plate chiller with a pump. It soon melted and became hot so that the cooling water soon became hotter than if I had of just used the garden hose. My innatention was the fault. It made me think about how to deal with chilled water to go to the plate chiller. I think it is best to keep the chilled water away from the heated water exiting the plate chiller. 

I am thinking it would be better to have a coil chiller in the ice in which your cooling water passes through before going to the plate chiller. The ice would only be subjected to the garden hose water temp and would last a bit longer effectively making your garden hose tap water cooler before going to the plate chiller.

I also think that a temp guage on the outlet of the chiller is a good idea; it is now on my list of things to do.


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## donburke (9/3/12)

Malted said:


> I have not tried this but I do use a plate chiller gravity fed from the BM and notice the whole device doesn't really get hot, just the half where the hot wort goes in. It might be an inefficient way to use the ice. I reckon a prechiller might work better.
> 
> I tried a big barrell of ice slurry and recirculated this through the plate chiller with a pump. It soon melted and became hot so that the cooling water soon became hotter than if I had of just used the garden hose. My innatention was the fault. It made me think about how to deal with chilled water to go to the plate chiller. I think it is best to keep the chilled water away from the heated water exiting the plate chiller.
> 
> ...



cooler water going into the chiller should result in cooler wort out, so this should be a better result

you would also need to agitate the pre-chiller that sits in the ice, as it will soon form thermal pockets and wont be that effective in pre-chilling your water

work out how much water you use for the chiller, then if possible, chill this volume of water in the fridge the day before, then pump this through the chiller


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## Stormahead (9/3/12)

Good points, makes perfect sense.

This might go hand in hand with the miracle box I'm hoping to make up this week.


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## bear09 (9/3/12)

Florian said:


> This is one of the two main reasons that made my copper coil redundant. I guess if you incorporate the time it takes to reheat into your boil calculations you should be fine, I just couldn't be bothered. But it isn't too hard after all.
> 
> The other thing to consider is, as Mark mentioned, the water temperature. I'm guessing that where you are the tap water is still quite warm all year round, so unless you chill your chill water you won't get below 20 degrees or even higher. Depends on what you wanna do I guess, but for my mainly lager brewing it just doesn't work.
> Obviously this applies to both immersion and plate chiller.
> ...



Good thread. I have always used an immersion chiller and I have always stirred the wort whilst cooling it. I have always been worried that this may be damaging the wort but it seems as though I may have been doing the right thing. My issue was that I couldnt just sit there and let 100's of litres of water go down the drain. If I stirred the wort it cooled rapidly.

Anyhow in response to the thread above, I solved this issue with an immersion element. Just before I put the immersion cooler in I would hit the wort with the immersion element. This would cause a rapid heavy hard boil (way too hard), then Id drop the cooler in. The boil would balance back to rolling within 30 seconds at which time id quickly remove the immersion heater. Another important thing that helps is to make sure your immersion cooler is EMPTY of water. If its full of cold water youll knock the crap out of your boil. If it full of air the boil come back really quickly.


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## Malted (9/3/12)

donburke said:


> you would also need to agitate the pre-chiller that sits in the ice, as it will soon form thermal pockets and wont be that effective in pre-chilling your water
> work out how much water you use for the chiller, then if possible, chill this volume of water in the fridge the day before, then pump this through the chiller



Both good points, cheers.


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## eamonnfoley (9/3/12)

Both methods (CFC and IC) have their pros and cons. You wont get one answer. personally use a Blichmann therminator and love it. But I make sure it gets a bake in the oven before use. And I circulate boiling wort through it for 15 mins during the boil. One trick with a CFC is to circulate back into the brewpot when chilling, meaning you get several passes through the chiller, before directing to the brewpot. You can also get your cold break to stay in the kettle using this method.


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## Ross (9/3/12)

If you are using a fermentation fridge for your brews, then there really is little need to get your beer all the way down to pitching temp.
Just get it down to whatever temp you can quickly & easily, then finish it over a few hours in the brew fridge.

Cheers Ross


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## sim (9/3/12)

Florian said:


> The other thing to consider is, as Mark mentioned, the water temperature. I'm guessing that where you are the tap water is still quite warm all year round, so unless you chill your chill water you won't get below 20 degrees or even higher. Depends on what you wanna do I guess, but for my mainly lager brewing it just doesn't work.
> Obviously this applies to both immersion and plate chiller.



Thinking systems-wise, for what its worth i find it works nicely enough if you already use a fridge to ferment to prechill water in it the day before in an old fermentor or cube or two. Doesnt interupt any brewing processes as its just using the fridge before the brew goes into it. Tap water to take it to 35c, 2c chilled water to take it to 15c, ice slurry if you want to get to 6c.


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## argon (9/3/12)

Ross said:


> If you are using a fermentation fridge for your brews, then there really is little need to get your beer all the way down to pitching temp.
> Just get it down to whatever temp you can quickly & easily, then finish it over a few hours in the brew fridge.
> 
> Cheers Ross


After a few attempts at a prechiller and prepping chilling water in the fridge etc etc. I could never get it much below about 25C without using an unconscionable amount of water. I now just get it down to as low as it will go without too much buggering about... usually about 30C then bung it in the fridge and pitch yeast the next morning. I brew at night and after filling it about 10.30pm, get up and pitch about 6.00 6.30am and give it a thrashing with the sanitised perforated strainer spoon for aeration. Hassle free and pitching at the correct temps, whilst not dragging out the brew day.

As long as everything is properly sanitised and sealed up there is very little risk.


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## Murdoch (10/3/12)

I use an immersion cooler in the BM to cool
I have used both methods mentioned previously, putting in preboil & leaving in for the whole boil & supplementing the boil with an immersion heater when putting it in during the boil & both worked well
I have found its important to have the cooler empty prior to putting in as it will absorb too much heat energy
Run the pumps in manual to circulate the wort with a towel over the top & it will drop to below 50 degrees in 10-15 minutes but the heat transfer slows down a lot after that but its generally high 20`s by 30 mins then I cool the rest of the way in the fermenter fridge but I do intend to make up a prechiller sooner or later.
I`ve wondered how effective a SS immersion cooler would be ?
SS doesnt have anywhere near the heat transfer qualities of copper
I suspend my cooler by SS hooks so as it doesnt rest on the BM`s heating coils
I notice within a few seconds of putting the cooler in the hot/boiling wort the top tails of the copper pipe are so hot it will burn you.
The SS hooks it sits on dont get anywhere above warm even after a 90 minute boil


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## Brew Matt (10/3/12)

Murdoch said:


> I use an immersion cooler in the BM to cool
> I have used both methods mentioned previously, putting in preboil & leaving in for the whole boil & supplementing the boil with an immersion heater when putting it in during the boil & both worked well
> I have found its important to have the cooler empty prior to putting in as it will absorb too much heat energy
> Run the pumps in manual to circulate the wort with a towel over the top & it will drop to below 50 degrees in 10-15 minutes but the heat transfer slows down a lot after that but its generally high 20`s by 30 mins then I cool the rest of the way in the fermenter fridge but I do intend to make up a prechiller sooner or later.
> ...



Interesting point with the copper vs stainless steel - i think we all know that copper is the better conductor of heat (and this can be seen in electronics, with the more effective heatsinks coolers being made from copper), but it is easy to be blind sided by the lure of stainless steel - but not as effective in this application. Makes you wonder why Speidel went for stainless steel (though it has been mentioned before that their water supply temperature is lower than ours - maybe they were not expecting to have as much demand for the BM abroad in hotter countries). 

Murdoch, can I ask what make model of immersion chiller (IC) you are using - in the photo it appears to fit into the BM nicely (is that a 20 or 50 in the photo?). I would like to find out which IC would offer the highest cooling surface area to suit a 50L BM. 

In the Jamil article, i think it says that the optimum circumference for the cooler coil is close to that of the containing vessel. Prior to reading this I would have guessed having the cooler coil circumference bisecting the vessel radius half way would have been the most desirable.

I am thinking that if you already have a pump attached, that an alternate method to prevent boil interruption when placing the IC into the BM would be to recirculate some boiling water through this first, and therefore the chiller would be close to same temp as the boil when inserted.

I have heard that the BM pumps can be modified some how to create a whirlpool effect - providing this is possible, I wonder how much difference in cooling there would be in doing this vs manually running the pumps during cooling without any modification. I believe that pumps will not manually turn on until wort temp of less than 80 degrees C is reached.

One thing for sure, there's definitely are a lot of factors to consider when planning the 'perfect' brew setup!


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## MHB (10/3/12)

Brew Matt said:


> Snip
> I have heard that the BM pumps can be modified some how to create a whirlpool effect - providing this is possible, I wonder how much difference in cooling there would be in doing this vs manually running the pumps during cooling without any modification. I believe that pumps will not manually turn on until wort temp of less than 80 degrees C is reached.
> 
> One thing for sure, there's definitely are a lot of factors to consider when planning the 'perfect' brew setup!




90oC before the pumps will work
M


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## Murdoch (10/3/12)

Brew Matt said:


> Interesting point with the copper vs stainless steel - i think we all know that copper is the better conductor of heat (and this can be seen in electronics, with the more effective heatsinks coolers being made from copper), but it is easy to be blind sided by the lure of stainless steel - but not as effective in this application. Makes you wonder why Speidel went for stainless steel (though it has been mentioned before that their water supply temperature is lower than ours - maybe they were not expecting to have as much demand for the BM abroad in hotter countries).
> 
> Murdoch, can I ask what make model of immersion chiller (IC) you are using - in the photo it appears to fit into the BM nicely (is that a 20 or 50 in the photo?). I would like to find out which IC would offer the highest cooling surface area to suit a 50L BM.
> 
> ...




Brew Matt its just 18M of 1/2" copper wrapped round to fit a 98L Robinox pot
When I got the BM (50L) I wanted to keep the immersion cooler & I found it fitted fine
I got some SS hooks made up to suspend the cooler on so it doesnt touch the heating elements
Probably dont need to do this ? ......


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## SJW (10/3/12)

I put the copper chiller in the BM and use tap water to get the wort down to 40 deg C then i pump ice slurry through for 10mins to bring it down to 20 deg C. 
It works heaps quicker if you turn the BM pump on while chilling also.
My chiller sits on the bottom inside the diameter of the BM's element and the pump outlet blows the wort straight up the inside of my copper chiller coils.


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## donburke (10/3/12)

Brew Matt said:


> Interesting point with the copper vs stainless steel - i think we all know that copper is the better conductor of heat (and this can be seen in electronics, with the more effective heatsinks coolers being made from copper), but it is easy to be blind sided by the lure of stainless steel - but not as effective in this application. Makes you wonder why Speidel went for stainless steel (though it has been mentioned before that their water supply temperature is lower than ours - maybe they were not expecting to have as much demand for the BM abroad in hotter countries).
> 
> Murdoch, can I ask what make model of immersion chiller (IC) you are using - in the photo it appears to fit into the BM nicely (is that a 20 or 50 in the photo?). I would like to find out which IC would offer the highest cooling surface area to suit a 50L BM.
> 
> ...




a stainless steel immersion chiller works just fine, given its not as good a conductor as copper, then allow for that, longer, narrower coil, giving enough time for the heat exhange to take place via the conductor


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## Tony (10/3/12)

I have been thinking about these things for a while now, planning a better cooling system

An idea i have is to use a plate chiller to give a similar result as an imersion chiller.

Theory is to recirculate hot wort through the plate chiller, back into the kettle untill the temp drops to a point where it can be easily chilled to tap water temp on its way to the fermenter. This way the wort and hops get a similar treatment as they would with an imersion chiller with late hops getting a rest in cooled wort before getting pumped out of the kettle.

Im sure plenty of people already do this or something similar, and i think it cound work for the BM.

cheers


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## the_new_darren (10/3/12)

Tony,

I have found returning cooled wort to the boiler is VERY ineffective. In fact the temp drops really slowly. I dont know why, it could be that the cooled wort falls to the bottom and straight back into the pick-up tube. You would be better dropping your late hops into the 10 litres of wort before your boiler is empty.

tnd


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## alford_j (10/3/12)

my trick with my 18m immersion chiller takes a little fore-thought but I can chill to lager pitching temp no problem.

1) Make 2 x 8L bucket ice blocks in the fermenting fridge 2 days before brewing. 
2)The night before brewing, put fermenter in the brew fridge with about 20L water in it.
3)Use an esky/bucket with a pond pump in it to hold chilled water and ice.
4)Use tap water to chill wort to say 40c where the temp difference between the wort and the tap water becomes small and cooling slows down considerably.
5)Swap to iced water and pump it through the coil to finish the cooling.

I have chilled 30L to 13c with this setup no problem. The trick is to let the tap water do the bulk of the work to avoid melting your ice, then the ice water completes the job. This trick would apply also to counterflow chillers, plate chillers etc providing you recirculated them for a bit as per Tony's idea.

Alfie


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## sim (10/3/12)

the_new_darren said:


> I have found returning cooled wort to the boiler is VERY ineffective.
> 
> 
> Maybe pump to different vessel (whirlpool tank), and pump back if required? Toying with this idea at the moment to, but with stainless immersion.


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## the_new_darren (10/3/12)

As Ross pointed out, the easiest and most cost effective way to do it is to get the wort to water temp, put the fermenter in the fridge overnight, then pitch the next morning.

Recirculating cooled wort back into the boiler uses twice as much water (and time) than directly chilling into the fridge.

I use a copper counterflow chiller. 70 litres down to +2 degrees or water temp in about 30 minutes.

tnd


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## manticle (10/3/12)

the_new_darren said:


> put the fermenter in the fridge overnight, then pitch the next morning.



Sounds almost like no-chill.


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## Brew Matt (10/3/12)

Murdoch said:


> Brew Matt its just 18M of 1/2" copper wrapped round to fit a 98L Robinox pot
> When I got the BM (50L) I wanted to keep the immersion cooler & I found it fitted fine
> I got some SS hooks made up to suspend the cooler on so it doesnt touch the heating elements
> Probably dont need to do this ? ......



Murdoch, if you were making the chiller again to suit the BM 50, would you make any changes? (ie increase the length, coil diameter, copper thickness etc).

The hooks seem like a good idea, as I have heard of the BM elements getting bent.


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## the_new_darren (10/3/12)

manticle said:


> Sounds almost like no-chill.



Yeah almost except I only do it for lagers. I most often brew in winter and can hit pitching temps for ales no problem.

tnd


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## manticle (10/3/12)

Good natured joke only.


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## the_new_darren (10/3/12)

manticle said:


> Good natured joke only.




Taken as


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## Brew Matt (26/3/12)

Brew Matt said:


> After deciding that a 30 plate chiller (Chillout Mk3 or similar) was the way to go after speaking to some in the know, I have heard from others equally knowledgable backing immersion chiller (copper 14 meter or greater).
> 
> I had dismissed the immersion option, but the immersion/whirlpool argument put forward by Jamil (http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php) is a pretty convincing one - to the extent where it mentions changing from plate to immersion.
> 
> ...



Is anyone able to comment on this immersion chiller and its suitability to a 50L Braumeister. Could not find a link from the manufacturers site, so have linked to a seller of this product. Also open to similar products put out by other manufacturers.

http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product_in...roducts_id=7047

Wondering if there is something with more surface area than this, and also whether the one pictured is going to make contact with the BM element (which is not desired).


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## Brew Matt (26/3/12)

Brew Matt said:


> Is anyone able to comment on this immersion chiller and its suitability to a 50L Braumeister. Could not find a link from the manufacturers site, so have linked to a seller of this product. Also open to similar products put out by other manufacturers.
> 
> http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product_in...roducts_id=7047
> 
> Wondering if there is something with more surface area than this, and also whether the one pictured is going to make contact with the BM element (which is not desired).



Or this one (manufacturers site) http://www.homebru.com.au/index.php?main_p...products_id=116


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## micblair (10/9/12)

I've done a couple of brews now with a 50L immersion chiller purchased from grain and grape, and extremely happy with the time taken to get below 40-45C, where I use ambient cooling in my garage to do the rest. 

Whilst the first batch was cooled quite rapidly with the pumps running (NS lager), the latest batch which was an IPA with lots of late hop additions, caused a lot of sedimentation/break material to be persistently re-suspended. 

Simply whirlpooling and waiting (up to 15 mins) didn't result in clear wort (note: brewbrite _was_ used), or at least approaching the clarity at 'flame-out' prior to re-circulating the wort in conjunction with the immersion chiller.

There are a few factors I believe which could have contributed to this:

-More hop material caused increase trub
-Not cooling all the way to ambient temperature
-Not waiting long enough 
-Half batch

Whilst I probably won't be doing another half batch for some time, I'm reluctant to use the pumps, and perhaps just rely on vigorous whilpooling, at least for an IPA... would like to hear your experience.


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## wobbly (10/9/12)

I have found running the pump on my 20lt unit results in a lot more sediment in suspension. Maybe the pump breaks up the hop material.

So I now use a hop sock and don't rum the BM pump with much inproved results

Cheers 

Wobbly


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## Brew Matt (10/9/12)

micblair said:


> I've done a couple of brews now with a 50L immersion chiller purchased from grain and grape, and extremely happy with the time taken to get below 40-45C, where I use ambient cooling in my garage to do the rest.
> 
> Whilst the first batch was cooled quite rapidly with the pumps running (NS lager), the latest batch which was an IPA with lots of late hop additions, caused a lot of sedimentation/break material to be persistently re-suspended.
> 
> ...



Hi Micblair,

Was this the immersion chiller you used? http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product_in...roducts_id=7047


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## micblair (10/9/12)

Brew Matt said:


> Hi Micblair,
> 
> Was this the immersion chiller you used? http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product_in...roducts_id=7047



Yes. All though I got it during whilst it was on sale, 20% off! :kooi:


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## DarkFaerytale (18/2/13)

for those useing a 50L brau with immersion chiller, roughly how much water in liters would you be useing to cool the wort down to pitching temp?


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## MastersBrewery (18/2/13)

DarkFaerytale said:


> for those useing a 50L brau with immersion chiller, roughly how much water in liters would you be useing to cool the wort down to pitching temp?


don't use this system but I think the basic laws of physics would apply, temp of wort vs temp of chilling water vs length of tube vs material tube is made of. I guess your looking at bang for your buck, in water used?


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## Batz (18/2/13)

Keg King


_These stainless steel immersion chillers are an easy way to chill your wort. Simply connect standard ¾ inch BSP garden hose fittings to the end and run tap water through the chiller while immersed in your wort. This is idea for batch sizes up to 45litres._
_*Dimensions*:
Coiled part of the chiller: 28cm high x 26cm diameter_
_Total height of the chiller: 65cm
12mm x 14meter 304 Stainless with ¾” BSP female/male fittings_


_*Part Number*_


_*x 1 unit*_


_*x 4 unit*_


_*x 8 unit*_


_006707_


_$140.00_


_$110.00_


_$105.00_


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## Edak (18/2/13)

I use tap water in my immersion chiller until it's not so effective, then use a pre-chill coil in a small esky full of ice and water (I get one of those bags of ice from the servo).

Works pretty well, but sometimes still needs two hours in the f-fridge depending on the ambient/tap-water temp.

EDIT: I might try the pond pump idea for circulating the ice water rather than a pre-chill coil. I also run the pump during the process then whirlpool after removing the coil..


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## micblair (18/2/13)

DarkFaerytale said:


> for those useing a 50L brau with immersion chiller, roughly how much water in liters would you be useing to cool the wort down to pitching temp?


roughly 60L will get you to 45C on a 50L BM without any kind of pre-chiller. I sometimes collect this water and mash in again if i'm doing a double batch; otherwise I collect as much of the hot waste water and use it to sanitise virtually everything from fermenters, kegs, and the BM itself.


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## bullsneck (18/2/13)

I use a tank (free water from the sky!) and I will easily burn through 150L. That said, I'm not too concerned with water usage as its recycled/reclaimed water. During summer I pump the water into a spare 200L tank (an old olive drum I picked up for $20) due to infrequent rain.
I'm usually getting to pitching temps using ambient water temps in 30mins during winter and longer during summer (this is where my pre-chiller comes in handy).

Edit - I'm using an immersion chiller from G&G and a sump pump for water transfer.


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## DarkFaerytale (19/2/13)

thanks guys, the reason i asked was because i will be useing bore water and i was hopeing to collect it back into a tank for use on my plants.... after it's cooled down of course. needed to figure out what size tank to get.


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## Crusty (20/6/14)

Batz said:


> Keg King
> 
> 
> _These stainless steel immersion chillers are an easy way to chill your wort. Simply connect standard ¾ inch BSP garden hose fittings to the end and run tap water through the chiller while immersed in your wort. This is idea for batch sizes up to 45litres._
> ...


I'm struggling to get consistent results with no chill & looking at giving the chilled recipes another shot.
Does anyone know if the Keg King wort chiller will fit the 50lt BM without getting in the way of the heating element?
From the description above it would seem so but who's got one.
I'm not keen on forking out $300.00 for the original BM wort chiller.
Cheers


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## Black n Tan (20/6/14)

Crusty I don't use a KK IC but have a G&G copper IC that fits inside the inner heating elements of my 50L Braumeister. Admittedly it is littler taller than it needs to be, but pretty happy with performance but I use tank water. Personally I would go copper, especially if using tai water to be as efficient as possible. Would you use tank or town water?


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## Batz (20/6/14)

Crusty said:


> I'm struggling to get consistent results with no chill & looking at giving the chilled recipes another shot.
> Does anyone know if the Keg King wort chiller will fit the 50lt BM without getting in the way of the heating element?
> From the description above it would seem so but who's got one.
> I'm not keen on forking out $300.00 for the original BM wort chiller.
> Cheers


Yes it will.
But I use seldom.


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## Crusty (20/6/14)

Black n Tan said:


> Crusty I don't use a KK IC but have a G&G copper IC that fits inside the inner heating elements of my 50L Braumeister. Admittedly it is littler taller than it needs to be, but pretty happy with performance but I use tank water. Personally I would go copper, especially if using tai water to be as efficient as possible. Would you use tank or town water?


Just town water.
Might look at copper instead.



Batz said:


> Yes it will.
> But I use seldom.


Cheers Batz.


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## Black n Tan (20/6/14)

Can you install a small tank, only needs to be a few hundred litres (more preferably)? It makes for guilt free chilling.


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