# Can't Decide on Pot Size for BIAB



## Blazar (18/11/13)

[SIZE=medium]G’day,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]I’ve been a kits and bits man for the last 14 months, and am now looking to move to BIAB. What I can’t seem to decide on is which size pot to get as this will also determine the method I use (I think!)[/SIZE]


[SIZE=medium]Do I go for the 19L Big W pot for $20 and make a more concentrated wort that can be diluted down to 23L batch size, or;[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]Do I go the 40L aluminium pot for $90 and do a full batch from the get go?[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]Obviously the price difference is very attractive, but is there more “stuffing around” doing the smaller size then topping up, or should I just buy-once-cry-once and go the 40L[/SIZE]


[SIZE=11pt]HELP!![/SIZE]


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## QldKev (18/11/13)

For 23L I would not worry about a 19L pot, I would go the bigger full volume. I would try and source a secondhand 50L keg, you should be able to get one for less that $90 and it will be a s/s pot that will last you may years. IMHO 50L is also a better size than 40L for the pot.


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## Blazar (18/11/13)

Cheers Kev thanks for that, I am leaning towards full volume purely because I'd know straight up how much water I'd need from the get go and that's it.


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## meathead (18/11/13)

I've got a 38litre pot and wish I had a 50
The bigger pot decreases the risk of spills especially when the grain bill is large


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## wbosher (18/11/13)

What QldKev said, 50L all the way. It's the perfect size for doing up to 25L batches, and will last a very long time until you feel like upgrading.


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## fletcher (18/11/13)

if i had my time again, i'd go bigger. i started with 19L, now am using a 38L and still want to go higher for fuller batches (23L). i make do easily but having more would be so much easier and mean less dicking around. i agree that 50L is the way to go


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## angus_grant (18/11/13)

50L is a good size for single-batch BIABs, and would also be an OK size mash tun if you ever move to 2V or 3V brewing. I don't think 50L mash tun would get you double-batches, but you could start doing multiple brews on the same day for not much more time than a single brew.

I've done a BIAB with 8.5 kgs of grain in my 50L pot and that was pretty close to full during the mash.


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## nu_brew (18/11/13)

50litres is very good. Though I wish I'd gone 70.


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## Blazar (18/11/13)

Thanks very much everyone, 50ltr it is, can pick up an aluminium pot with lid for $100 brand new which is what I'll be getting this afternoon.

Kits 'n' Bits has been fun but now time to jump the fence!!


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## contrarian (18/11/13)

For an extra $50 you can get a stainless steel 70L pot which is perfect for double batches. It's great being able to knock out 45L of wort in not much longer than it takes for a single batch. Well, that's what I thought and it has served me well so far!


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## Kingy (18/11/13)

For an extra $50 you can get a stainless steel 70L pot which is perfect for double batches. It's great being able to knock out 45L of wort in not much longer than it takes for a single batch. Well, that's what I thought and it has served me well so far!

Yeah I'm glad I brought an 80litre ally pot. Felt to big for the first couple of years but now I'm double batching it's gold. Same amount of work but double the amount of product. It's great having a few labelled no chill cubes full and deciding which one to ferment


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## Keppmiestet (18/11/13)

I have a 60L pot for BIAB which is a great size for single batch 20L brews , plenty of room to prevent any overflows even with big grain bills of 10 kgs. Push the limits doing double batches tho, looking to get a 100L stainless pot soon so I can make my fav brews in bulk.


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## hoppy2B (19/11/13)

Its not just the pot, its everything that goes with it that you need to consider. For example, a large pot requires a suitable burner and stand etc.
Then you need a suitable sky hook to lift the bag when you BIAB.


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## Keppmiestet (19/11/13)

Yeah there is a limit to how far you could with size with BIAB, I have a good solid stand that has been reinforced and a nasa burner also an engine crane in my garage that I use to suspend the bag of grain to drain off cause that gets real heavy quick doing it by hand. I feel the weakest link is the bag. I wonder what it's max limit in weight would be ? 20kg maybe .


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## Donske (19/11/13)

Keppmiestet said:


> Yeah there is a limit to how far you could with size with BIAB, I have a good solid stand that has been reinforced and a nasa burner also an engine crane in my garage that I use to suspend the bag of grain to drain off cause that gets real heavy quick doing it by hand. I feel the weakest link is the bag. I wonder what it's max limit in weight would be ? 20kg maybe .



I've had a bit over 12kg of grain in the craft brewer bag, with how slow they drain I'm sure it was more like 35-40kg when first lifting, handled it fine, didn't even get the sense it was too much weight.


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## mxd (19/11/13)

angus_grant said:


> I don't think 50L mash tun would get you double-batches,


I used to do tripples (12 to 15 kg of grist and then fill it up) with my 50 ltr keg MLT, it generally meant there were 2 or 3 batch sparges required.


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## Spiesy (19/11/13)

contrarian said:


> For an extra $50 you can get a stainless steel 70L pot which is perfect for double batches. It's great being able to knock out 45L of wort in not much longer than it takes for a single batch. Well, that's what I thought and it has served me well so far!


Bang. Spot on. I do single batches, 95% of the time - but I love my 70l ss pot from CraftBrewer. I have the ability to do double batches when I need, which is perfect for brewing with mates, and no issues at all with a single batch. To be honest, with some high gravity, 90-min boil single batches, I'm also glad I have the 70.


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## Spiesy (19/11/13)

hoppy2B said:


> Its not just the pot, its everything that goes with it that you need to consider. For example, a large pot requires a suitable burner and stand etc.
> Then you need a suitable sky hook to lift the bag when you BIAB.


For big single batches you'll generally be able to lift it yourself - unless basic strength is something you struggle with.

I lift it out and let it drain in a clothes basket (with perforated bottom) that sits in a SCA tub. Light work.


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## Spiesy (19/11/13)

mxd said:


> I used to do tripples (12 to 15 kg of grist and then fill it up) with my 50 ltr keg MLT, it generally meant there were 2 or 3 batch sparges required.


12-15kg for a tripple? Did you have a super-high efficiency, make small batches or make mid to low gravity wort?


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## MashPaddler (19/11/13)

A 40L urn is a tried and true step up from kits as a starting point, electric, concealed element, easy and cheap way to move up. As Hoppy2B said, you will also need a gas burner or be comfortable drilling holes in the pot for electric elements (bad drilling = buggered pot) , ball valves etc so which ever way you go, make sure you know all the costs involved.


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## Midnight Brew (19/11/13)

As mentioned there is a few factors which you will need to decide on.

Material of pot. Stainless steel or aluminum. Stainless steel is easier to clean and looks the bling and to an extent may last longer. Aluminum you cant soak clean with sodium percabonate (learnt the hard way) but then its cheaper, easier to drill a hole into.

Size of pot. In the future will you be brewing larger batches? If you will then you will be better off to buy a larger kettle now. 40L works for single batches, 50L is more comfortable/easier to get a second hand keg and convert over. 80L does doubles easy and will do double high gravity beers too, the weak link here would be the bag.

Size of the pot will influence the size of the burner as hoppy mentioned. Dont get a massive mongolian if you're batch size is only going to be 20-25L. There's always the electric avenue too.

Then there the cost of the setup, although I would view this not as an expensive cost but as an investment. After all, you're drinking the profits.


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## mxd (19/11/13)

Spiesy said:


> 12-15kg for a tripple? Did you have a super-high efficiency, make small batches or make mid to low gravity wort?


 sorry for the OT

80% so 12 kg will get me 1.048, e.g here

always 64ltrs batches and never diluted.


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## Blazar (19/11/13)

Wow this thread took off overnight!! Love the responses guys thanks heaps.

I settled on the 50ltr aluminium pot with lid, an even $100 (I had some birthday cash to spend, the balance of the cash went on 2x 19ltr kegs woo hoo!!)

I have access to a 2 ring burner, and figure i'll just use some bricks as a base, burner on top of the bricks then the pot. I have a covered outdoor area to brew in and will use the exposed roof truss to rig up a basic hook/pulley system to lift the bag if need be, although only doing single batch I may not need to go to that extreme.

MidnightBrew, what did you end up using to clean the aluminium pot?? I'm guessing dishwashing liquid is safe, my normal practice for cleaning stainless fry pans is to mix the dishwashing liquid and just boiled water then let it cool.


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## Spiesy (19/11/13)

sorry for the OT

80% so 12 kg will get me 1.048, e.g here

always 64ltrs batches and never diluted.


Nice efficiency for BIAB, particularly for such an amount of grain!

Sorry for the OT.


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## HBHB (19/11/13)

50L Minimum for 20-25L batches. 70L if you might want to do some slightly larger batches (like 30-35L) I do most of my BIAB's for singles and development brews in a 70L these days

It's also a useful size if you decide to move on later to a 2 or 3V system. Bigger mash tun for those out there style beers is always handy.

Just my 2c worth.

Martin


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## Midnight Brew (19/11/13)

Blazar said:


> MidnightBrew, what did you end up using to clean the aluminium pot?? I'm guessing dishwashing liquid is safe, my normal practice for cleaning stainless fry pans is to mix the dishwashing liquid and just boiled water then let it cool.


I think percabonate is okay if you use it quickly and dont soak but im not willing to try after almost stuffing my pot the first time. I use boiling water out of the kettle and just a dish washing brush to remove the crap. Then rinse and let it dry. The pot is clean to use but yeah do not soak anything in it. I read on here that it can be saved by burning in a new layer of oxide, cosmetically the pot looks rooted but its fine and all my beers have been fine since.


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## jaypes (19/11/13)

I have a 40L pot and it is always full to the brim during mashing which really shits me - as careful as I am it seems to always overflow and spill only when I have thongs on (the footwear type), which also shits me

If I were you grab a 50L or if you can afford a 70L - but then you would prob need to upgrade your burner/element to suit (which probably will shit you)


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## Bribie G (19/11/13)

Keppmiestet said:


> Yeah there is a limit to how far you could with size with BIAB, I have a good solid stand that has been reinforced and a nasa burner also an engine crane in my garage that I use to suspend the bag of grain to drain off cause that gets real heavy quick doing it by hand. I feel the weakest link is the bag. I wonder what it's max limit in weight would be ? 20kg maybe .


Well said, I've often thought that BIAB should have been the way that beer had always been brewed except that commercial breweries don't really have a way of hoisting a five tonne bag of wet grain  Mind, they are getting towards that with the modern use of mash filter "presses".

Pistol Patch (who runs the BIABinfo forum) and I spent a drunken evening once bemoaning the fact that there are no 50L electric urns available in Australia, they would be an absolutely perfect BIAB out of the box brewery.
Quite happy with my 40L but and extra 10L up my sleeve would be excellent.

Another thing to bear in mind is that if you get a NASA or rambo burner for your pot, the cost of gas per brew is quickly going to escalate until it's well over the cost of a 40L urn which only takes about fifty cents per brew. I once worked it out that if I'd gone gas, I would already have spent enough to buy five urns.

However gas is bloody fast and furious, all depends whether running costs are an important factor for you.


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (19/11/13)

If I'd grabbed this thread earlier, I'd have said "go for the bigger pot".

If you're looking for an interim solution (or a tight-wad solution), then you can go 2 x 19L pots. There's nothing to say you need only 1 Big W pot for the stovetop method. That saves dilution issues, though the Maxi-BIAB boys do get some excellent efficiency.

Edit: and the argument about batch cost on gas with a bigger pot holds true - whereas the 2 x 19L solution does give you an electric solution and low equipment for entry point as well.


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## Blazar (19/11/13)

I'd be using bottled gas to start with, but am looking at converting my BBQ over to natural gas now that my suburb has caught up with the modern era.


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## contrarian (19/11/13)

Plenty of different opttions for plenty of different situations. For me the 70L with a fairly serious burner was something I thought I would not want to replace in the near future. Also having young kids means not being able to brew as often as I would like so double batches made sense from a time perspective. I also only have one power circuit in the garage where I brew which meant that electric elements were not an option without running extensions cords from upstairs or getting another circuit put in. For the $6-7 a brew for gas at the most I'm happy to wear the cost. Reusing yeast saves that much on each brew.

Blazar, enjoy the pot. Once you've knocked out 3 or 4 brews you'll be well ahead of where you would be paying for beer!


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## fletcher (19/11/13)

jaypes said:


> I have a 40L pot and it is always full to the brim during mashing which really shits me - as careful as I am it seems to always overflow and spill only when I have thongs on (the footwear type), which also shits me


why don't you mash in less water, then top up to the right boil volume, post-mash and pre-boil?


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## Lethal (13/5/14)

Sorry to drag up an old thread however I would be interested in comments regarding the last question about mashing a smaller volume (say 80% of water volume) in a 40 litre pot and then diluting in the fermenter?

I am about to undertake BIAB after many years of kit brewing and I am considering an electric urn. I can get a 40 litre one for a good price but it seems everyone is recommending going to a larger pot which would take me to a gas ring and a pot which would be double the cost of the urn.

Any thoughts on this?


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## lukiferj (13/5/14)

Lethal said:


> Sorry to drag up an old thread however I would be interested in comments regarding the last question about mashing a smaller volume (say 80% of water volume) in a 40 litre pot and then diluting in the fermenter?
> 
> I am about to undertake BIAB after many years of kit brewing and I am considering an electric urn. I can get a 40 litre one for a good price but it seems everyone is recommending going to a larger pot which would take me to a gas ring and a pot which would be double the cost of the urn.
> 
> Any thoughts on this?


 What size brews are you planning on? I can easily make 23 litres of up to 7% beers in a 40 l urn doing full volume mashing.


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## stm (13/5/14)

Your assessment is spot on. 40L urn is perfectly fine (as per above reply which came up as I was typing this) for normal gravity beers at normal batch size (23L). Sometimes, if I want to make a bigger beer and use a 90 min boil, I will hold back just 2L or 4L of water from the mash and then add it in post mash-out and pre boil.

And electricity is much cheaper than bottled gas.


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## Damn (13/5/14)

I bought a 50L aluminium pot, was going to do gas but soon added an elec element, tap and aeroflex insulation. Soon after this conversion I wish I bought an 40L elec urn. 9 months on now I'm happy with my 50L pot and think I'd struggle with some of the higher gravity beers fitting all the grain into an 40L urn. I don't like scaling recipes down as this means less beer. In retrospect I would consider a 70L pot but would want to be sure a single 2-2.4kw element could heat it and provide a decent boil. Yeah Nah Yeah I think 50L is the sweet spot for me.


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## stux (13/5/14)

You should google maxi-biab, it's all about making big/long beers in small pots (relatively)

I've regularly do a 75L brew length in a 98L pot using maxi-biab techniques


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## Bribie G (13/5/14)

I recently made a double batch of a fake Pils using 6.5 kg of wey pils in a 40L urn and added the wort to a tin of Canadian Blonde, came out 5% plus.
If I had simply made a single batch using the grain only it would have turned out over 7% and the urn wasn't even full during mashing.

It doesn't matter what method you use for mashing, high gravity beers will always retain a fair bit of wort trapped in the spent grain, whatever size of pot.
So you can sparge if you like, which gives you a weaker wort that needs boiling longer.

In any case, 40L can handle just about anything you throw at it. Agree about the electricity, I'd rather spend the gas burner's four bux per brew on hops or good yeast.


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## Lethal (19/5/14)

Just looking at doing 23L at this stage so it sounds like it could be the go then. Thanks for the replies


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## stux (27/5/14)

If you want to go electric, then I'd go the 40L urn. If you want to go gas and think that there is any chance that you'd want to do doubles, then you should get a 70L


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