# Help with STC 1000 controller wiring help



## jhay (2/2/13)

I'm not very handy with mechanical problems but the new STC 1000 controller wiring diagram has me beat.Can somebody tell me whether I'm better having an electrician visit or take it to an appliance repairer for them to do the wiring? Any assistance would be appreciated


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## Cube (2/2/13)

Watch the vid and at the end has very good pictures that you can screen capture of the wiring and colour wires going where. I'll put them here anyway. I made one up last week exactly like this video. Jar car parts were 12 bucks, box, lead holder in things, and a 3 dollar extension lead.

Any muggins can wire this up...... SOBER!

As in the video and pictures below I only used the cooling wiring because heating is not required for me. You may be the same.


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## Cube (2/2/13)

Picture worth 1000 diagrams......

EDIT: oops.....i'll upload them later today when I have time to edit out some screen capture data i don't want on the net that are on the pics...... pics deleted.


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## breakbeer (2/2/13)

this thread was a great help to me:

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/66428-stc-1000-in-pictures/


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## carpedaym (2/2/13)

I just wired mine up today. I only hooked up the cooling end to start with as its all I'll need for a few months. I have never done electrical work before, but I found it quite easy. I didn't even have wire strippers and I was able to get by with just a knife.

This post and wiring diagram helped me, as it is just for cooling:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-hard-wire-stc-1000-a-385792/
Note: the grey, neutral wire in the diagram is usually blue in Australia.

Also, I went to get Wire Nuts from bunnings and Mr Bunnings man told me the Americans are crazy about Wire Nuts but other things are better. The ones he told me to get are marked: HPM, Heavy Duty Connector, 1 Screw, 6mm hole.


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## Cube (2/2/13)

Ok - 2 year old has stopped pulling at my pants long enough to post the edited pic..... helped me visualise it all.


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## Nick JD (2/2/13)

If this diagram (which is well-proven to be correct and safe) is difficult then I strongly advise you not to wire it yourself. Otherwise - wire it up!


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## Hippy (2/2/13)

Nick JD said:


> If this diagram (which is well-proven to be correct and safe) is difficult then I strongly advise you not to wire it yourself. Otherwise - wire it up!


Yep 
That's the one I used and a shitload of others.


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## carniebrew (2/2/13)

This wiki can also be very helpful, with a step by step guide towards the bottom, with pics: http://urowiki.filecore.net/index.php/Thermostat


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## jhay (2/2/13)

Thanks everybody for the help.Seems easy enough especially with all the helpfull diagrams


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## ploto (2/2/13)

Here's my effort in a Jaycar jiffy box. I used a headphone jack for the sensor, though a bnc connection would be better option.


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## jhay (4/2/13)

Just finished wiring up the STC 1000 .Photo attached as I've used a 2 junction boxes for the wiring and only wired up the cooler.Thanks for all that responsed as I would never had constructed it without your help.


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## kahlerisms (4/2/13)

ploto said:


> Here's my effort in a Jaycar jiffy box. I used a headphone jack for the sensor, though a bnc connection would be better option.


Ohhh. Is that what those little loops on the GPOs are. I have used 100% the same parts as you (actually I have a third manually switched GPO for my stir plate) but mine is about 15,000 times messier than yours.

Well done, mate!


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## Hop Thief (16/3/16)

Nick JD said:


> If this diagram (which is well-proven to be correct and safe) is difficult then I strongly advise you not to wire it yourself. Otherwise - wire it up!


My stc is due to show up Friday and I'm having trouble finding an electrician who's not booked out for at least the next 2 weeks, so I,m gonna have a go at it myself. This diagram looks easy enough to follow. Is it reliable? I figure if I get it all done then I can take it to one of the electricians to check it over and I won't take up too much of their time.

Cheers.


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## Benn (16/3/16)

That is the diagram I use to wire mine, I've not had any issues.
I have no electrical qualifications, I'd suggest consulting a qualified electrician to check over it before use.


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## Hop Thief (16/3/16)

Benn said:


> That is the diagram I use to wire mine, I've not had any issues.
> I have no electrical qualifications, I'd suggest consulting a qualified electrician to check over it before use.


Thanks mate, I will definitely get an electrician to check it out before using it.


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## Rocker1986 (16/3/16)

That's the same diagram I used as well, or at least a neater version of it I found somewhere, have had no problems with it either.


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## rude (17/3/16)

Th earth joiner should have 2 screws


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## Camo6 (17/3/16)

Earth connector doesn't need two screws if screw is 80% of tunnel diameter. Most tunnel screw connectors comply with this reg. Certainly doesn't hurt though.

Definitely get an electrician to check it out. Last thing you want to do is burn your brewery down or die.


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## rude (17/3/16)

Stand corrected
Old electrician here & not a licenced contractor
Was always taught 2 screws for earth as what came with connection boxes for ceilings
We always have connectors with single & double at work
Old days they were called blue point connectors with the dark outside
The earth connectors were bare brass no outside insulation
I always tape my connectors but this isnt needed either
Have seen some wiring where the elec has twisted,soldered & taped connections

Thanks for that Camo6


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## Camo6 (17/3/16)

Hey Rude,

I have always been taught to use two screw BP's for earths too and think it's still pretty much the norm for most applications, especially when they are supplied with the component. It's only due to my taking on a new trade that has brought it to my attention as we need to know the regs backwards. Suspect the clause is a relatively new inclusion to the AS3000? Someone told me the two screws were for a time when A&N were solid but the earth stranded (bare earth system) and promoted more secure contact.

Twisted and soldered is still an acceptable join but solder cannot be used in conjunction with a screw tunnel connection due to differing thermal expansion between the metals.

But I'm just a fledgling Rude and I'm sure you'd teach me a lot more than I could learn from the regs. I bet you saw your fair share of vulcanised india rubber! Apparently Master's were selling a Chinese equivalent a couple of years ago that is due to start failing now with only 40% of recalled stock recovered. There's been suggestion of an amnesty for unlicensed electrical work by the home handyman in order to prevent house fires and electrocution.

Anyway, as usual, I'm veering way off-topic.

Cheers
Cam


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## Lasith (18/6/18)

Nick JD said:


> If this diagram (which is well-proven to be correct and safe) is difficult then I strongly advise you not to wire it yourself. Otherwise - wire it up!




G'day Nick and all, 

I am wiring my STC1000 and found above diagram to be the most common in forums. However I found a few with slightly different setup for port number 5 / 6 / 7 / 8. 

As per the above diagram port 6 and 8 are connected to "power in" cable where the port 5 and 7 are connected to heating and cooling outlets respectively . In some diagrams I found port 5 and 7 are connected to power in and the port 6 and 8 are connected to heating and cooling outlets. 

Can someone clarify this for me please ? Is this really matters ? 

Cheers


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## Garagebrew (19/6/18)

Im not looking at one as we speak mate but basically theyre a relay (electronic switch) so all its really doing is making and breaking a connection.
I typically bridge the supply to terminal 5 and 7 and havent run into any dramas.
Just make sure you know what your doing mate, electricity hurts.


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## Ben Davies (20/6/18)

My 2c is order a branded stc like Elitech (one i use) them cheapo ones dont last or / cant handle 240v. Cheers


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## jackgym (20/6/18)

I was lucky enough to have a home brewer in my area see my post re the STC1000 and offer to wire it up for me, which I greatfully accepted. After a couple of years I've graduated to a pre-wired Inkbird Temp. Controller (eBay) and keep the STC as a backup.
The Inkbird at around $50 gives you more peace of mind re any electrical fault that may occur from a bodgie wiring job with an STC.


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## bttjn (20/6/18)

This worked for me


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## Lasith (20/6/18)

Thanks for all your replies  I kinda wanted to do the project my self and enjoy doing it. Its just the diagrams are little different when I compare them. Someone might understand them better than me. See the above diagram by bttjn shows port 6 runs directly to heat outlet and port 8 runs to cool outlet. on my previous diagram they are swapped with port 5 and 8 (picture attached) -- The diagram i followed represent below, little green circles show the differences. any thoughts ?


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## ianh (20/6/18)

It does not matter, both are correct. When the temp is low and heat is required the relay between 5 and 6 closes and completes the circuit. Similarly with 7 and 8 when cooling is required again the relay closes and completes the circuit.


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## Lasith (20/6/18)

ianh said:


> It does not matter, both are correct. When the temp is low and heat is required the relay between 5 and 6 closes and completes the circuit. Similarly with 7 and 8 when cooling is required again the relay closes and completes the circuit.



Thanks ianh for the confirmation. I wasnt sure if the relays needed power (live wire) to be connected in a certain direction. thumbs up for sorting that out for me.


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## krusty_oz (22/6/18)

AS3000:2007 clause 3.7.2.11(b)(ii) allows single screw terminals for earth conductors provided screws have an outside diameter of not less than 80% of the tunnel diameter. A few people got caught out for missing that clause when Clipsal stopped shipping 2screw connectors with junction boxes.


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## Mick0269 (9/2/20)

jhay said:


> I'm not very handy with mechanical problems but the new STC 1000 controller wiring diagram has me beat.Can somebody tell me whether I'm better having an electrician visit or take it to an appliance repairer for them to do the wiring? Any assistance would be appreciated


I have a wiring drawing, it is very easy to wire I used an extension cord with the female end cut off for my main power in active (brown) terminal # 1 neutral (blue) terminal # 2 loop a brown wire from terminal # 1 to terminals # 5 and # 7 ( i used a double power point on the out put side of my unit ) from terminal # 6 and terminal # 8 run 1 brown wire from each connect # 6 wire to heat power connect # 8 to cool power. Loop a wire from # 2 to both heat and cool out run the earth wire to both heat and cool out. That is it wired ready to go. It will work great I have had no problems with mine it is a great unit for the price $ 11.26 at the door.


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## Grok (10/2/20)

Mick0269 said:


> I have a wiring drawing, it is very easy to wire I used an extension cord with the female end cut off for my main power in active (brown) terminal # 1 neutral (blue) terminal # 2 loop a brown wire from terminal # 1 to terminals # 5 and # 7 ( i used a double power point on the out put side of my unit ) from terminal # 6 and terminal # 8 run 1 brown wire from each connect # 6 wire to heat power connect # 8 to cool power. Loop a wire from # 2 to both heat and cool out run the earth wire to both heat and cool out. That is it wired ready to go. It will work great I have had no problems with mine it is a great unit for the price $ 11.26 at the door.



Eh Mick.......you might want to check the date of the post before you jump in to reply


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## Nullnvoid (10/2/20)

Grok said:


> Eh Mick.......you might want to check the date of the post before you jump in to reply



He might still need help and is just being very, very patient [emoji23]


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## MHB (10/2/20)

Fair cop, mind you we often enough give new people a bit for not doing a search before posting.
At least Mick0269 who is pretty new has done a search, he has also posted a drawing that is safe, which is a step in the right direction.
Maybe a bit late, but wont be the worst post this week.
Mark


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## Nullnvoid (10/2/20)

MHB said:


> but wont be the worst post this week.



Agree


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