# Starter Yeast From Fermentis Dry Sachet



## The man in the black hat (21/8/10)

Hi all. 

First post for me, I am making my first brew after five years off the scene (checked the dates from my home brewing book I kept when brewing previously). Having kids really cramps your style, doesn't it? 

I am planning a pilsner urquell replica, using a Muntons Pilsner can as the base, with some malt extract and Saaz hops - nice and simple. 

I am using Fermentis Saflager s23. Brewing in Brisbane where the night time temperates have been around 10 degrees and under of late, so hoping to keep a nice cool ferment going on under the house. 

QUESTION: 
Is it worth the bother of trying to harvest any of the s23 yeast to use for my next brew (and share with a mate)? I am planning to make up a mix of cooled boiled water and malt powder, pitch the yeast, and let it feed up overnight before pitching into the final brew. I am thinking of splitting the yeast into a couple of jars once it gets going in the starter jar, feeding them both up to build them up, then using one to pitch, and the other to split out further to another couple of small jars and keeing in the fridge for the next few lagers. 

Feedback and suggestions are asked for! In particular, let me know if you have a particular feeding regime you have followed for building multiple culture from a dry yeast. 

Cheers
Hat man


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## seemax (21/8/10)

Dry yeast is ready to pitch.
You might as well just collect some yeast after you rack from fermentation... 3-4 stubbies worth of slurry.


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## Bribie G (22/8/10)

I collect slurry from S-189 Lager Yeast brews all the time. Usually a couple of 500ml jars which I fill to the top and fridge. Then I put each into a 1 litre jar with some boiled cooled Light dried malt extract solution, leave on the kitchen bench and they are up and running in a few hours if they are only a couple of weeks old.
Personally, having tried all the dried lager yeasts I always go for S-189 as it is very forgiving in temperature, and if your brew ends up hovering around the low to mid teens in temperature it will ferment just fine. Some guys even do it at ale temps and get good beers. My 2c.

Welcome back to the craft. :icon_cheers:


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## Screwtop (22/8/10)

Welcome back, similar questions are asked often on AHB. Dried yeast has a higher count of wild yeast and bacteria simply due to the manufacturing process, this is why manufacturers provide such a large cell count per pack. Repitching dried yeast is ok, so long as you are able to collect good clean yeast from mid depth in the trub. Some commercial breweries do this, easy using a racking arm in a conical base fermenter. Difficult in the homebrew situation, yeast slurry can be acid washed, but this is pretty much the realm of advanced homebrewers, the process requires specific knowledge. 

Dried yeast is cheap, use new and prepare it according to manufacturers instructions prior to use. Cutting corners produces cheap beer, you can buy that from the mega brewies without the risk of throwing out a bad batch.

Screwy


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## The man in the black hat (22/8/10)

Thanks guys, based on the advice here I won't waste any time mucking around the yeast, and just buy a new sachet for the next brew.

Laid the brew down today which was good fun - everything went surprisingly well (so far!). 

Cheers
Black hatted man


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## Midnight Brew (22/8/10)

The man in the black hat said:


> Thanks guys, based on the advice here I won't waste any time mucking around the yeast, and just buy a new sachet for the next brew.
> 
> Laid the brew down today which was good fun - everything went surprisingly well (so far!).
> 
> ...




hey hey

You can collect and farm some yeast after the brew is finished to save a bit of money and getting more out of the one yeast. Chiller has a great guide to use, here is a shorter version of the same guide if it helps.

*Yeast Farming Instructions*





*Equipment:*

- PET 2 litre bottle

- 2x 500ml Jars

- 3x 50ml - 100ml Sample Vials





 *Method:*



1) Prepare 2 litres of sterile water by boiling it and then cooling it down.



2) Transfer beer off the yeast cake leaving no liquid.



3) Pour 500ml of sterile water into fermenter and swill around. Collect this in a jar and shake, and then seal in fridge for 15 minutes.



4) Pour the top of the liquid into a second jar and then top up with sterile water. Shake and seal then put in fridge for 15 minutes.



5) From the big jar fill the sample vials full & top up with sterile water and put these in the fridge. What remains in the larger jar can be used for a starter or discarded.



6) After 24 to 48 hours the yeast will settle. There will be a compact layer of yeast. Pour off the top liquid and top up with sterile water, shake well then let it settle for 24 hours.



7) Pour off top liquid again and top up with sterile water.



8) Check samples over the next week and if the water shows any sign of discolouration replace it with sterile water.





*Samples will remain viable for 12 to 18 months.*



*Make a starter with each sample before pitching and bring it up to 500 mls. 
**Use this method again when down to the last vial.*


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## manticle (22/8/10)

It can be done but the few times I've had infected recultured yeast has been from dried. Not a hugely scientific viewpoint I'll grant but I tend to use dried new and reculture liquid.


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