# How High-tech Is Your Brewery?



## SpillsMostOfIt

I've been reading with great interest over the past few months about the sorts of things people are doing with their breweries. I made a conscious decision early on that my setup (prior to pitching my yeast at least) would be as 'hands-on' as possible and I have been fairly successful in that aim. Put simply:

I brew in a bag, with electric elements and no control systems outside of my own brain.
I've only just installed a tap in my aluminium boiler, which sits on a couple of milk crates when in use.
I filter my water into the mash using a bucket filter.
I have two thermometers - one alcohol and one cheap digital (from Craftbrewer).
I no-chill with a couple of Willow plastic jerry cans.
I use a cheap thermoelectric wine-cooler I bought off eBay to keep my Bunnings fermenters at temperature. I'm slowly 'improving' it.
I usually bottle-prime before storing my bottles in a cupboard I built under the stairs.
I have 90 Coopers PET, one hundred and something 1.25litre PET bottles, four dozen swing-tops and a growing collection of glass stubbies.

I've seen some amazingly automated systems which make mine look positively primitive. What do you do?


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## bonj

G'day Spills,

Well, mine hasn't been used yet. Virgin brew in 2 days. I have put a 3 vessel system together. The kettle will be boiled using a 3 ring burner, supported by 4 VW Beetle wheels. I have the same digital thermometer you use. I will be no-chilling in the 20L jerries also. I purchased my kettle and mashtun from another AHBer, and the HLT is a custom job with 2 electric elements totalling 2350W. It will be supported by an outside table.

I would like to have a brew-stand with all the whizzbang gadgets. After doing a couple of brews with Browndog, it does make the brewday quite easy. And they look pretty flash too.


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## Pumpy

SMOI,

Whilst my brewery has far too many ball valves it would be nice to use some type of actuator to electrically turn the valve ,but I have not found a source of reasonably priced actuators 

Pumpy


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## Tony

I think i get the record for most ball valves 

Even i get confused sometimes.

but i can pump from anywhere to anywhere

cheers


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## Jazman

brew stands can be cheap if you have access to cheap tubing my 3 brew stand cost me about 20 bucks thats 1 buck a meter for the 50 x 50 galv tubing


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## Tony

just counted them

15 ball valves and 2 electrical solenoids

3 PT100 temperature probes, 2 temperature controllers, 1 display unit, 3.6KW HWS element run by 45 amp omron solid state relay, not as flash as some ive seen but i like it.

cheers


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## Tony

Jazman said:


> brew stands can be cheap if you have access to cheap tubing my 3 brew stand cost me about 20 bucks thats 1 buck a meter for the 50 x 50 galv tubing



hehe pick the metal worker :super: 

on ya jaz

cheere


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## mika

3 Stainless pots with ball valves on a camping table at the moment, brewframe coming. Immersion chiller, March pump, recent addition, NASA Burner. Stick thermometer for measuring mash temps as the Dial guage was positioned too far up the kettle...DOH !
Electric HLT controlled by a mashmaster mashmate thingo. Refractometer amd hydrometer for brew gravities.
Fermentation fridge controlled by a Fridgemate, mostly keg my beers, but have got several hundred 300-375mL bottles, with a computer power supply powered sanitising jet. MDF bottle drying/rinsing platform.

Think that's it :huh:


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## Darren

Mine is the way it was 10 years ago. Nothing much and all MANUAL 

Magnetic pump will help in the brewery better than any of the other whizbang gadgets you can buy/make.

Only costs $200. One hernia or slipped disc in the back and your physio costs will easily be more.

Remember 20 litres of water weighs 20kg. 20 litres of wort weighs a bit more. Wort movement usually does not really comply with the "proper" way to lift.

Guest Lurker (as the safety officer here) should probably comment on this 8)

cheers

Darren


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## Thommo

I probably have one of the most hands on setups on this forum.

My mash tun sits on the balcony with the tap poking over the edge, then I have the boiler (keg) on the 5th step from the top to drain into, then once it's full I carry it down the stairs to the landing and put it on the NASA.

Once boiled I have to lift it off the NASA onto bricks so I can fill my No Chill Cubes (Sorry Darren). Once they have cooled enough I have to carry them under the balcony through the 5 foot doorway (I'm 6'3") to the "Brewery". I'm only 30 and still have a pretty decent back, but I know it's only a matter of time before something happens.

On the plus side I don't have a gym membership any more so carrying around 47L of unboiled wort + keg metal seems a pretty good workout to me. I've been a bit unfit in my football this season, maybe I need to brew more.


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## enoch

A March pump is the only real tech I introduced into my rejigged system and it was to avoid a dodgy back or major burns from moving 40 litres of 70+ hot water to the HLT.

I put a couple big dial thermometers in the system too which have certainly made hitting mash temp a lot less hassle.

Enoch


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## domonsura

Mine has a pump (just to save the lifting it was worth it) Has a water filter and one of my counterflows attached, bi-metal dial thermometers, only 2 vessels, and a few ball valves, Pretty simple really, sure it's all stainless, but it's all manual apart from the pump. I prefer for it to all be hands on, that's why there are no electronic gadgets, solenoids, or all that stuff. Also consequently, there's less to go wrong


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## hughman666

mine's pretty basic. converted 50L keg for a kettle, "keep cold" round esky for a mash tun (with a mashmaster thermometer) and 2 x 15L SS pots for heating my mash and sparge water on the gas stove.

i'm getting my 2nd converted keg finished this weekend to become the HLT. i've already got the heating element, just need the holes cut (if anyone in perth has a step drill or holesaw to lend, let me know - for a few pints of course  )

final stage will be a thermostat for the hlt, march pump and eventually a frame.


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## boingk

Wrong forum I know [I do kits and bits]...but I've been gazing/reading in awe at all the all-grain specific equipment lists you guys seem to easily ramble off...damn!

At the moment I have a 25L fermenter sitting in a wardrobe, atop some drawers on one side. I put a wet shirt over it and blow my fan heater on 'fan only' setting over it for lagers - gets down to 16'C if I change the shirt 4 times a day. I bottle into brown PET bottles because they're cheap and available - or sometimes I utilise a 5L demijohn and only prime to an absolute max of 6g/L sucrose.

Some day...some day...


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## newguy

I christened my high tech system (HERMS) about 18 months ago. Prior to that, everything was manual. I simply always wanted to have a worry free 'set & forget' system....I have the electronics background and I had (note past tense) some spare time so I whipped up a HERMS controller from scratch. When I finish building my new house I want to further automate the system to eliminate the hernia inducing manual movement of 10+ gallons of wort.

I had an article on my system published in Circuit Cellar magazine. If anyone is interested, PM me with your regular email address and I can send you a .pdf of the article. That is, unless someone can tell me how to somehow make the article available on this board.


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## redbeard

I have a 2 level system. hlt & esky mashtun at waist high. pump from hlt into mash, then gravity into the boiler on the ground. pump from boiler into no-chill cubes. I have a analog dial on the hlt, but use the cheap craftbrewer digital for the mash. have a fridgemate for fermenting. just use boston re-inforced hose with (marine) plastic 1/2" screw connectors for plumbing. someday silicon & ss snaps. my brewstand is made out of big boys dexion meccano


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## Kai

Very low tech. My way of lifting heavy loads is inviting fellow brewers around.


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## PistolPatch

Too right Kai and good on ya Thommo!

I reckon the high-tech award has to go to WA. Man, I have only seen 3 breweries here but they all blow me away!

I'm pretty embarrassed about my set-up. I brew in my bathroom and the exhaust fan is the most recent high-tech apparatus. I still have to wipe the roof from the condensation though. Bear in mind that I used to batch-sparge in an apartment but now BIAB and so only have one vessel to worry about! What I'd give for a sky-hook!

I must say though that high-tech does not necessarily mean less work. Work-wise, I'm actually very happy with my set-up. Whilst not elegant, it is easy, fast and gives me a great brew. I'm in love!

Spot,
Pat


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## Zwickel

howdy folks,

I just finished my "brewery in a box" and finally got it automatised, that means controlled by a computer programm. Let me call it "CABS" Computer Aided Brewing System.

Let me show you some pics,

first the box:






inside the box:






up to now I was brewing with that setup:






because very often I got disturbed whilst brewing and somtimes I forgot the time, so every batch went different. So I decided to automatise the system, controlled by a computer programm.

The first challenge was to automate the gas burner, means I had to look for a automated ignition.
What I found was a simple controller from the company Satronic produced to control gas burner in heatings.
Now I had to install a ignition-electrode to start the burner and a ionisation-electrode to recognize the flame.

showed here:






the second burner is showed here:






together:






the magnetic gas valve and the ignition transformer behind:






the full setup you may see here:






on the left side there you can see a box that collectes all wirings, inside is the frequency controller for the stirrer, the relais-card to switch all functions and the two ignition controllers for the burners.

here the switch box:






the computer with the programm:






to measure the temperature I used a 1wire semiconductor, the Dallas sensor 18S20.
That sensor I have mounted into a SS chopstick showed here:

http://www.elcom-mayer.de/bier/temp2.jpg

I must apologize for the poor wirings, this was just a test setup to checkout everything is running. Cosmetics will be done later.

So my first test run turned out a treat, everything worked wonderful, now Im going to do all the cosmetics.

Cheers


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## Kai

Bloody hell, zwickel!


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## redbeard

great pics, amazing setup. & u have a brew tent ! hope it wont catch on fire !
did u write the software ? the ss pot on the left is the mash tun, so what you boil into if
i assume the right is the hlt ?

is that electrical sparker / transformer the equiv of a peizo spark lighter ? is that std in europe ?

thanks

edit - more q's


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## Zwickel

redbeard said:


> hope it wont catch on fire !


dont worry, around the burners Ive mounted a sheet metal like a chimney to improve the efficiency of the burners, not showed on the pics



> did u write the software ?


No, another German homebrewer has written the software, he soon will translate it in english, so everyone who is interested in can get it for free.

the German version you may get already from my server, just to play around if you like.
There is nothing to install, just start the Brauanlage_35.exe:

http://www.elcom-mayer.de/bier/Brausoftware.zip

All what you need to use this programm is a Dallas 18S20 sensor for measuring the temp:

http://www.elcom-mayer.de/bier/DS18S20.pdf

and a relais-card like that:

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...p;rd=1&rd=1

thats all.



> the ss pot on the left is the mash tun, so what you boil into if
> i assume the right is the hlt ?



at left is the mash tun and lautering tun all in one and at right is the HLT.



> is that electrical sparker / transformer the equiv of a peizo spark lighter ? is that std in europe ?


as long as the transformer gets electricity from the ignition controller, it produces spark light with its high voltage of 16KV.

What the ignition controller is doing: first starts the transformer, then opens the gas valve. The ionisation elektrodes tells to the controller if the flame is on; if not, the controller stops the gas valve and start from begin. If the controller doesnt succeed to start a flame within 10sec., the controller switches totally off and shows an error.

I forgot to mention, all wirings around the burners are silicon insulated because of the heat


Cheers


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## berazafi

Zwickel said:


> dont worry, around the burners Ive mounted a sheet metal like a chimney to improve the efficiency of the burners, not showed on the pics
> 
> 
> No, another German homebrewer has written the software, he soon will translate it in english, so everyone who is interested in can get it for free.
> 
> the German version you may get already from my server, just to play around if you like.
> There is nothing to install, just start the Brauanlage_35.exe:
> 
> http://www.elcom-mayer.de/bier/Brausoftware.zip
> 
> All what you need to use this programm is a Dallas 18S20 sensor for measuring the temp:
> 
> http://www.elcom-mayer.de/bier/DS18S20.pdf
> 
> and a relais-card like that:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...p;rd=1&rd=1
> 
> thats all.
> 
> 
> 
> at left is the mash tun and lautering tun all in one and at right is the HLT.
> 
> 
> as long as the transformer gets electricity from the ignition controller, it produces spark light with its high voltage of 16KV.
> 
> What the ignition controller is doing: first starts the transformer, then opens the gas valve. The ionisation elektrodes tells to the controller if the flame is on; if not, the controller stops the gas valve and start from begin. If the controller doesnt succeed to start a flame within 10sec., the controller switches totally off and shows an error.
> 
> I forgot to mention, all wirings around the burners are silicon insulated because of the heat
> 
> 
> Cheers





Cool :super:


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## Adamt

And the title goes to Germany 

Looks awesome Zwickel!


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## Lukes

*Computerized Bling.* 
That C.A.B.S is the go Zwickel just like the big boys.
(insert envy face here)
Here I was thinking I was getting all high tec with the HERMS bit's Dave got me and a mashmaster temp controller....

- Luke


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## Cortez The Killer

That's brilliant

So when are you going to open your own brewery?

Cheers


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## Fents

Mash and Sparge water heated on stove

25 Lt Pail type bucket for mash tun on a outside table

Converted 50L SS Keg for boiler

4 ring burner

Fermenter for No Chill

All gravity feed from a table ---> to my decking ---> onto the ground.


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## Darren

Zwickel, Looks great.

Off-topic I know  but i spoke to a guy from Germany yesterday. He said it is illegal to make your own beer in Germany and you need a licence. Is this true?

cheers

Darren


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## Guest Lurker

Darren said:


> Remember 20 litres of water weighs 20kg. 20 litres of wort weighs a bit more. Wort movement usually does not really comply with the "proper" way to lift.
> 
> Guest Lurker (as the safety officer here) should probably comment on this 8)
> 
> cheers
> 
> Darren



Yes, manually lifting wort is very poor practice, no good for your back. So is using a pump, as the connection could break and spray you with hot fluid. The only safe way to lift a 15 kg kettle filled with 40 kg of wort is to grow a tree above your brewery. How much safer does this look? This is the highest tech part of my brewery.

Hey Zwickel - this is supposed to be a low tech brewery thread!


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## Wardhog

Fents said:


> Mash and Sparge water heated on stove
> 
> 25 Lt Pail type bucket for mash tun on a outside table
> 
> Converted 50L SS Keg for boiler
> 
> 4 ring burner
> 
> Fermenter for No Chill
> 
> All gravity feed from a table ---> to my decking ---> onto the ground.



Sounds exactly like mine except for the mash tun. I no-chill in fermenters as well.


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## jayse

PistolPatch said:


> snipped>>
> 
> ...... What I'd give for a sky-hook!



I can't see how red symonds is gunna help you <_<


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## warrenlw63

jayse said:


> I can't see how red symonds is gunna help you <_<



:lol: :lol: Jayse livin' in the 70's.

Warren -


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## boingk

[Jaw drops to floor as eyes extend from sockets, hit screen, and explode]

Whoa...GO ZWICKEL!


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## Pumpy

Dont you just love Zwickles Posts .

German Engineering .

I am Gobsmacked 

Pumpy :blink:


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## devo

I started out with a simple gravity fed system but the tinkering aspect led me away from the simpler ways of dong things. Although I'd have to say that my brew days tend to go much smoother/relaxed with all the mod-cons that I've added.


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## Zwickel

Darren said:


> Off-topic I know  but i spoke to a guy from Germany yesterday. He said it is illegal to make your own beer in Germany and you need a licence. Is this true?


Not anymore. Til the 80s it was forbidden to brew your own beer in Germany. But then they made a new law that everyone can brew up to 200Litres per year for free. If one exeeds the 200l, he has to pay a little tax.

Since then, Germany has a growing homebrew society.


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## berazafi

Zwickel said:


> Not anymore. Til the 80s it was forbidden to brew your own beer in Germany. But then they made a new law that everyone can brew up to 200Litres per year for free. If one exeeds the 200l, he has to pay a little tax.
> 
> Since then, Germany has a growing homebrew society.





You better hide mate, that setup looks like its brewing 200l a week with all that control they will think you are going into buisness


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## Zwickel

berazafi said:


> You better hide mate, that setup looks like its brewing 200l a week with all that control they will think you are going into buisness


who tells you, that I dont pay my tax for exeeding litres?


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## Whistlingjack

Great stuff, Zwickel.

Just make sure you don't burn your house down before we get there...  

WJ


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## lokpikn

I bow my head to the EVIL BEER LORD

The Great Zwickel.

What a way to go. :beer:


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## floppinab

Zwickel said:


> at left is the mash tun and lautering tun all in one and at right is the HLT.



Hey zwickel, just to confirm I guess you are controlling mash temps with the stirrer and burner switching on and off??? This right??? If so how finely can you control mash temps (i.e. what's the hysteresis)


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## Zwickel

floppinab said:


> Hey zwickel, just to confirm I guess you are controlling mash temps with the stirrer and burner switching on and off??? This right??? If so how finely can you control mash temps (i.e. what's the hysteresis)


yes its right. The inertia is the hysteresis. for example, I set the temp at 52C and the burner heats up to 52 then stops the gas valve. The heat overhangs about 0,5, means the temp overshoots til 52,5C.
Now it takes about 20min the temp comes down to 52. In case the temp gets lower than 52 for more than 15sec. (stable signal) the burner starts again.

In the end, there is a hysteresis depends on the mass.

edit: the stirrer is running all the time, the relais switches it only from forward to backward.
So I can set the time for forward run and for backward run. Mainly I set the Stirrer to 5min forward run then switch for another 5min backward run.

@WJ
dont worry, as long as I was brewing manually the danger to burn the house down was even more.
Im going to do a special brew for your visit, Im alredy prepared  

Thank you all mates for your positive resonance, Prost :beer:


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## fixa

Can't win a war, but those damn germans can brew!!! 

Go that man!!!!!


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## Doogiechap

I showed mine off recently but coulden't resist the urge to pimp it again  .
The controller has some more images here so won't get too indulgant. Darren will love this. I Filled up my HLT to the brim for a big batch and didn't allow for 2 things.... Expansion of the water when it heats...and a leaky gate valve that kept on slowly filling my HLT via my filter..... You can all see where my controller is located... The long and the short of it was OVERFLOW :angry: . I tripped my earth leakage breaker, and lost the ability to control my temps. Thankfully my temps had pretty much made it to what I needed to sparge so I didn't write off the batch but lets just say that my brow was somewhat furrowed  . I cleaned, dried the controller and alls well. I will work at waterproofing the area... I loved using it. It basically controls my Herms and HLT temps and switches everything electrical on and off. My ball valve count falls short of Tony's by about 5  . I love playing with this sort of thing as much as actually brewing. My brewday is certainly much more relaxed with this sort of setup.
Cheers
Doug


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## sqyre

I reckon i'm gunna win the "High Tech" award...

I came across a new Space age high-volume pump at about a Tenth the normal pump size.

I was so impressed i bought 7 of them!!!! and a steal at $100 each!!

The bloke down the pub who i bought them off said just mount them to the bottom of the tank and when you want to pump the water out just turn the switch...

And it must be high tech cause theres no power lead..must be some sort of mini power pack somewhere in it..

The only thing is the bloke said its not the strongest pump as it wont pump any higher than the highest point you fill the tank...buts thats ok i will just make sure the tanks full when i use the pump.

Its amazing!! it so small and compact !!! If you didn't know better you would say it was just a ball....... valve...........

.......................... :blink: ................................uh oh.......

Iv'e just goto duck down the pub for minute....................... :angry: 



Sqyre


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## Zwickel

fixa said:


> Can't win a war, but those damn germans can brew!!!


maybe therefore? who knows


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## Pumpy

fixa said:


> Can't win a war, but those damn germans can brew!!!
> 
> Go that man!!!!!




Easy Fixa ,

they came second !!

Pumpy


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## head

for all you guys with solid state piping on your stands.......How do you get around the cleaning dilemma? Especially when it comes to getting the old Malt out for disposal? Just the old scoop and rinse method or am I missing something?


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## Zwickel

head said:


> for all you guys with solid state piping on your stands.......How do you get around the cleaning dilemma? Especially when it comes to getting the old Malt out for disposal? Just the old scoop and rinse method or am I missing something?


just wanna tell ya how I clean my system: 

as soon as the lautering is finished and the boil in the HLT begins, I empty the mash pot, fill it up with caustic soda, start the stirrer and heat it up to 65C. Leave it til the boil is finished.

After the wort is cooled down, filled into the fermenter and the yeast is pitched, I pump the hot caustic soda through all the pipes, hoses and heatexchanger Ive used into the HLT. There Ill leave it for a while.
After the used caustic soda is drained, I do the same procedure with citric acid, to wash out all remaining CS.
Finally Ill rinse everything with clear water.

After that procedure you may have a look into everything using a endoscope and if youll find even a little debris inside, Im going straight to serve you a huge stein of homebrew


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## Tony

head said:


> for all you guys with solid state piping on your stands.......How do you get around the cleaning dilemma? Especially when it comes to getting the old Malt out for disposal? Just the old scoop and rinse method or am I missing something?



when i start to chill the brew the water out of the chiller is about 70 deg c. I run the first 50 liters back into the HLT (this is effective for a 2nd batch also) when its done, i scoop out the grain into a couple of buckets to dump elswhere and wheel the rig outside.

I hose the mash ton and kettle down and give them a good scrub and pump out the slush.

I then pump half the hot water through the pipework into the MT then into the boiler nad out to the drain.

Repeat with the rest

then open all the taps and drain it all out.

Works great.

you should see the shit that washes out the first time with hot water. 

I have been thinking of giving it a run with some keg cleaner. leave it in the pipes for 15 min and pump out with fresh water.

cheers


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## fixa

Pumpy said:


> Easy Fixa ,
> 
> they came second !!
> 
> Pumpy



Just like the porn star who couldn't get work... h34r: h34r: 

I know... hat, coat, door..


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## lucas

zwickle, thats amazing stuff! can you tell me about that card you linked to on ebay, I cant read German but I gather it allows you to switch on and off 240V to 8(?) devices controlled by a parallel port?


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## InCider

sqyre said:


> I reckon i'm gunna win the "High Tech" award...
> 
> I came across a new Space age high-volume pump at about a Tenth the normal pump size.
> 
> I was so impressed i bought 7 of them!!!! and a steal at $100 each!!
> 
> The bloke down the pub who i bought them off said just mount them to the bottom of the tank and when you want to pump the water out just turn the switch...
> 
> And it must be high tech cause theres no power lead..must be some sort of mini power pack somewhere in it..
> 
> The only thing is the bloke said its not the strongest pump as it wont pump any higher than the highest point you fill the tank...buts thats ok i will just make sure the tanks full when i use the pump.
> 
> Its amazing!! it so small and compact !!! If you didn't know better you would say it was just a ball....... valve...........
> 
> .......................... :blink: ................................uh oh.......
> 
> Iv'e just goto duck down the pub for minute....................... :angry:
> 
> 
> 
> Sqyre


I just got a call from Mrs Sqyre to come over and service the grain mill  h34r:


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## Zwickel

lucas said:


> zwickle, thats amazing stuff! can you tell me about that card you linked to on ebay, I cant read German but I gather it allows you to switch on and off 240V to 8(?) devices controlled by a parallel port?


yeah, youre absolutely right. Thats a card connected to the parallelport, bearing 8 relais, able to switch 240V 10A.

Relais1 switches the burner1 on and off
Relais2 switches the direktion of the stirrer (in my case, but u may use it fore what ever you want)
Relais3 switches the Programm over to burner2 to control the boil (by depressing the button Extra1)
Relais4 switches the burner2 on and off manually
Relais5 switches anything you want by depressing Extra2
Relais6 switches anything you want by depressing Extra3
Relais7 is unused
Relais8 is an alarm controlled by the "Braumeister call", you may use for a siren.

The "Braumeister call" you can define by yourself at any time or any event, the siren will yell 

That card you may produce by yourself as well, its quite easy.

Cheers


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## JoePolvino

Mine is pretty low-tech. It consists of a couple keggles and a mag pump. Part of me wants to automate more of it, but then I think it would take away from the "hands on" experience I enjoy.


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## Franko

I still havent finished yet, 
got to start on the control panel now

Hi-tech not yet but here's hoping

Zwickel youve just given me some more ideas (oh No) and now automation 

Here's some pics of it so far
Youv'e got to love brewporn
Franko


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## mika

Stop Polishing it and finish it Franko !


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## Zwickel

wow Franco,

has your equipment ever been used?
It seems to me like something for an exposition or exhibition room, too shiny to use it.

What a pity youre going to use it for brewing beer


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## SpillsMostOfIt

Although Zwickel has clearly blitzed the field, I'm impressed with the effort (and number of ball-valves) a lot of people have put into their kit. 

Perhaps I should have named this thread:

"What Size Vehicle Do You Need To Transport Your Brewery?",
or​"How Many Apollo Missions Worth of Compute Power Controls Your Brewery?",
or​"How Many Kilometres of Tubing/Cable are in Your Brewery?",
or​"How Many Hours a Week Do You Spend Polishing Your Brewery?"

(For the record, my answers would have been: Smart ForTwo with space for passenger, I use digital scales, 1.5metre silicon tube / 6metre power cord, and [redacted]).

  

I guess it shows that while it is _clearly_ all about the beer, this craft provides opportunities to play with all sorts of things. All cool stuff...


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## Batz

Not really high-tech,but does everything I need.






Batz


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## bugwan

Where's ArnieW??? I've never seen a more automated homebrewery than his. Not that I've actually seen it, just the pics.

I hope he doesn't mind me linking to the site. He has plenty more photos in the Automating a Brewery thread. Still one of my favourites :beerbang:


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## warrenlw63

bugwan said:


> Where's ArnieW??? I've never seen a more automated homebrewery than his. Not that I've actually seen it, just the pics.
> 
> I hope he doesn't mind me linking to the site. He has plenty more photos in the Automating a Brewery thread. Still one of my favourites :beerbang:



Yep, had the pleasure of seeing it in the flesh myself a few years ago Bugwan. Like a giant version of a Lego Mindstorm kit. :super: Arnie's a bit of an automation/electronics whizz. Makes a killer beer too.  

Can't wait to see pics of the new version when it's ready.

Warren -


----------



## mika

"How Many Apollo Missions Worth of Compute Power Controls Your Brewery?",

The Apollo missions are actually extremely low tech by todays standards, it's almost to the point where your desktop calculator has more processing power than the computer that put men into space. Scary stuff :blink:


----------



## ArnieW

bugwan said:


> Where's ArnieW??? I've never seen a more automated homebrewery than his. Not that I've actually seen it, just the pics.
> 
> I hope he doesn't mind me linking to the site. He has plenty more photos in the Automating a Brewery thread. Still one of my favourites :beerbang:



Hi bugwan,

you can see a heap of photos of progress on my blog site: http://hermanmachine.spaces.live.com/

I've been slowly working on my other web site, but it takes quite a bit of work to maintain a plain html space, so the info there has not been updated for a couple of years. 

HERMAN Version 6 hardware is complete (except for control system), so the stainless steel kitchen rack has been converted into a mobile brewing trolley. I'm very happy with the result.

I've nearly completed testing of the new control system which means it is nearly ready to put together properly. When this is done I'll send out an invitation for a public HERMAN brewday.

cheers, Arnie


----------



## bugwan

ArnieW said:


> Hi bugwan,
> 
> you can see a heap of photos of progress on my blog site: http://hermanmachine.spaces.live.com/
> 
> I've been slowly working on my other web site, but it takes quite a bit of work to maintain a plain html space, so the info there has not been updated for a couple of years.
> 
> HERMAN Version 6 hardware is complete (except for control system), so the stainless steel kitchen rack has been converted into a mobile brewing trolley. I'm very happy with the result.
> 
> I've nearly completed testing of the new control system which means it is nearly ready to put together properly. When this is done I'll send out an invitation for a public HERMAN brewday.
> 
> cheers, Arnie



Thanks for the reply Arnie - probably should have checked with you, to get the most up-to-date site address!

Looking fantastic mate, my experimentation with a DS18S20 has worked OK, but getting it going under Windows has been tough. My soldering is SHOCKING though. It's a wonder it works at all. I'm yet to employ it in the brewery yet, even then, it will be purely for monitoring, rather than automation.

Time brings everything


----------



## SpillsMostOfIt

bugwan said:


> Looking fantastic mate, my experimentation with a DS18S20 has worked OK, but getting it going under Windows has been tough. My soldering is SHOCKING though. It's a wonder it works at all. I'm yet to employ it in the brewery yet, even then, it will be purely for monitoring, rather than automation.



I got a couple of the DS18S20s and have found them to be a bit temperamental. One that I have in my fermentation fridge - after about a month of working perfectly - started generating CRC errors on each read. I haven't got to the bottom of why yet, but it has put a bit of a dent in my enthusiasm for them. Problem is that there doesn't seem to be a credible alternative.


----------



## berazafi

SpillsMostOfIt said:


> I got a couple of the DS18S20s and have found them to be a bit temperamental. One that I have in my fermentation fridge - after about a month of working perfectly - started generating CRC errors on each read. I haven't got to the bottom of why yet, but it has put a bit of a dent in my enthusiasm for them. Problem is that there doesn't seem to be a credible alternative.





I think there is a analogic device that basicly converts a thermocouple input into a digital data streem i cant remember the part number, but it looked simple to intergrate into a pc or PIC circuit. I just asked them for a couple of samples and they provided them for nothing



The best thing about thermocouple is that there is no acutal device needed at the point of measurement, just two wires joined together


----------



## ArnieW

SpillsMostOfIt said:


> I got a couple of the DS18S20s and have found them to be a bit temperamental. One that I have in my fermentation fridge - after about a month of working perfectly - started generating CRC errors on each read. I haven't got to the bottom of why yet, but it has put a bit of a dent in my enthusiasm for them. Problem is that there doesn't seem to be a credible alternative.


Might be a corrosion problem or just a fault with that particular unit. I've only had trouble with lead corrosion which was really my lack of protecting it. I've been using about 6 of them in my brewing rig for about 3 years without a single fault.

I'd say try another one and see how you go. You can put them is sealed stainless or copper tubes, or dip them in epoxy to protect them.

cheers, Arnie


----------



## Swifty

Well all this high tech stuff is making me look prehistoric. I have a $20 esky for a mash tun with braided hose for manifold. Heat sparge and mash water in 2 19 litre pots. Then split boil into two pots and no-chill in fermenter. Not high tech by any means but makes bloody delicious bears


----------



## redbeard

Welcome swifty, if your current gear works for you & your happy then keep going. Some beer afficionadios love to tinker & upgrade their beer hardware stuff, and thats cool too 
Its up to you what you want, & there's plenty of advice here if you want it


----------



## bonj

4 VW wheels (5 lug) and 4 bricks.... that's my kettle stand.


----------



## THE DRUNK ARAB

Bonj said:


> 4 VW wheels (5 lug) and 4 bricks.... that's my kettle stand.



BREWSTAND OF THE DECADE!!!  

Classic Bonj!

C&B
TDA


----------



## Jono_w

This is my irst attempt at brewing and an automated RIMS all grain brewery.
It consists of:


HLT:
50L SS
2.4KW Element
Temp Probe
Pressure Sensor for level indication

MLT:
50L SS
2.4KW RIMS Chamber on side.
Temp Probe
SS Mesh false bottom
Pressure sensor for level indication

Boiler:
50L SS
3.6KW Element
Temp Probe
Reverse Chiller

7 Motorised valves and one magnetically coupled pump move the water and wort around.

The control cabinet houses a USB IO controller and various OPTO isolaters and realys.


The software was writted in Visual Basic.



This is my pneumatic capper, so much easier.



I have successufully completed 2 brews, looking forward to more.

Cheers..


----------



## PistolPatch

Obviously you plagiarised Bonj's design Jonathon 

That's definitely the most amazing first post I've seen anyone put on AHB!!!

Welcome to the forum Jonathon.


----------



## Adamt

Wow, top stuff! I think only 1 first post beats that, that I've seen... it was entitled "Bar... Shed... Pub?" I had to change my pants after that one 

Edit: Not sure if it was sqyre's first post, but anyway!


----------



## Zwickel

wow Jonathon,
Im speechless. Great stuff.

Thats absolutely brewers hardcore porn  

Ive never seen an amateur brewery like that.

I bow for you, youre the King :beer:


----------



## facter

frack.


this really outclasses my freakin esky.

i think i need to start putting together a proper brewery =/


----------



## Uncle Fester

Zwickel said:


> I forgot to mention, all wirings around the burners are silicon insulated because of the heat
> Cheers




Man!..... What is it with Germans and Engineering?

Zwickel, your setup is GOLD!

Fester.


----------



## oldbugman

Since upgraded the mashtun


----------



## berazafi

Jonathon said:


> This is my irst attempt at brewing and an automated RIMS all grain brewery.
> It consists of:
> View attachment 12601
> 
> HLT:
> 50L SS
> 2.4KW Element
> Temp Probe
> Pressure Sensor for level indication
> 
> MLT:
> 50L SS
> 2.4KW RIMS Chamber on side.
> Temp Probe
> SS Mesh false bottom
> Pressure sensor for level indication
> 
> Boiler:
> 50L SS
> 3.6KW Element
> Temp Probe
> Reverse Chiller
> 
> 7 Motorised valves and one magnetically coupled pump move the water and wort around.
> 
> The control cabinet houses a USB IO controller and various OPTO isolaters and realys.
> View attachment 12602
> 
> The software was writted in Visual Basic.
> View attachment 12600
> 
> 
> This is my pneumatic capper, so much easier.
> View attachment 12603
> 
> 
> I have successufully completed 2 brews, looking forward to more.
> 
> Cheers..







This is what i had in mind, nice :super:


----------



## Lukes

Jonathon said:


> This is my irst attempt at brewing and an automated RIMS all grain brewery.



Nice first post welcome aboard.
Mate not a bad effort at your first AG rig.
Like many here, mine was a keg, mayo bucket and 1 liter jug. :blink: 



Jonathon said:


> The control cabinet houses a USB IO controller



Can you tell us were did you pick that up from and what was the damage in $?

Good stuff. I think your the winner so far for the "I push one button" brewing trophy.

BTW: has anyone automated the removal of spent grain (your Mates or kids don't count as automation).​- Luke

Edit: Spelling...


----------



## kirem

I am very interested in the automated capper. Can you post more details on it please?

Nice RIMS system.


----------



## ArnieW

Jonathon said:


> This is my irst attempt at brewing and an automated RIMS all grain brewery.
> It consists of:
> View attachment 12601
> 
> HLT:
> 50L SS
> 2.4KW Element
> Temp Probe
> Pressure Sensor for level indication
> 
> MLT:
> 50L SS
> 2.4KW RIMS Chamber on side.
> Temp Probe
> SS Mesh false bottom
> Pressure sensor for level indication
> 
> Boiler:
> 50L SS
> 3.6KW Element
> Temp Probe
> Reverse Chiller
> 
> 7 Motorised valves and one magnetically coupled pump move the water and wort around.
> 
> The control cabinet houses a USB IO controller and various OPTO isolaters and realys.
> View attachment 12602
> 
> The software was writted in Visual Basic.
> View attachment 12600
> 
> 
> This is my pneumatic capper, so much easier.
> View attachment 12603
> 
> 
> I have successufully completed 2 brews, looking forward to more.
> 
> Cheers..


Oh crap, it looks like Zwickel and I have been pipped at the post  

Well done Jonathan - that is simply amazing. It looks as though you've spent a couple of $ on that rig. Can you give us some details on your mechanised valves. I've been scared off everything I find because they demand top dollar.

But it looks like you've spent too much time inventing and not enough brewing. I keep making and drinking beer and it has slowed my work down considerably  

Thanks for sharing that beer porn with us, your work rocks :super: 

Arnie


----------



## Stuster

OldBugman said:


> Since upgraded the mashtun



Flasher than mine.  :lol:


----------



## therook

Bonj said:


> 4 VW wheels (5 lug) and 4 bricks.... that's my kettle stand.



Thats an absolute classic Bonj, i can see a lot of time and effort went into it

:beer: 

rook


----------



## Jono_w

Wow, Thanks for the reply's ,
I'll try to answer as much as I can, I don't get on the net very often, as i'm in the sticks and can only use dial up.

"Obviously you plagiarised Bonj's design Jonathon " Not sure who that is but I will check out his rig. 
edit: Checked it out! where were you when i needed insperation Bonj! awesome!!

This has totally been designed around a drawing of a brewery I saw on a black board, I took a photo and with the parts I could source I made somthing similar.

To start with, I would say the whole rig has cost me no more than $1500.

The Motorized valves are Honeywell VC6012 240v valve actuators. They were purchased for around $20 each surplus from www.oatleyelectronics.com they are good because they slowly (6 seconds ) actuate.

The USB controller is from HYTEK controls 
http://www.hytekautomation.com/Products/IUSBDAQ.html
around $100 for 16 digital IO and 8 analog inputs, software and drivers for Visual Basic ,Absolute gem.
Totally relies on a PC, so if your PC locks up, could make an interesting beer..

Every bit of work was done by myself, I tried to get mates to come around and help but they seem to laugh at me alot and drink, while i do all the geeky stuff.
Funny thing is, now its producing beer, they are alot more interested...
I am an industrial electrician with a decent workshop, Mills lathes and so forth and no missus.

"But it looks like you've spent too much time inventing and not enough brewing." Very true .. The cahllenge now is to brew some great beers..

The capper is as simple as it looks..
A SS frame, with a 50mm bore pneumatic cylinder with around 200mm stroke so it covers long necks and stubbies. The bell is out of one of those $3 hammer bottle cappers, its been drilled out so i can screw it to the cylinder shaft that i machined a 6mm thread into, a DCV (directional control valve) a push button (foot) and your done.. around 30 psi is plenty but 50psi is nice.

This is what my brother picked up for me yesterday at an auction, a 1150 litre jacketed mash tun (Milk vat)
For $220,, one day!!!


----------



## bonj

Hey Jonathon,

If you scroll up the page, you'll see the photo of my stand. When you see it, you'll notice that PP was making a joke about how high-tech your brewery is compared to mine. I'm a software guy, so this engineering stuff is way beyond my knowledge. Your rig looks awesome... I would love something like that, but of course would have to run it on Linux. 

Beers,

-Bonj


----------



## Jono_w

Bonj said:


> Hey Jonathon,
> 
> If you scroll up the page, you'll see the photo of my stand. When you see it, you'll notice that PP was making a joke about how high-tech your brewery is compared to mine. I'm a software guy, so this engineering stuff is way beyond my knowledge. Your rig looks awesome... I would love something like that, but of course would have to run it on Linux.
> 
> Beers,
> 
> -Bonj


Bonj,

Yeah, I took it serious for a second, then i did have a look, I love it, Hey if it works.. The old Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) . 
Hmm, Linux, heard good things never tried it. Good old XP sp2, hasn't locked up during a brew yet. not bad thats Two out of two brews! I'm sure it will.
I have purchased a Moeller PLC off ebay, so the next Rig will be independant of a PC.


----------



## bugwan

Jonathon said:


> This is my irst attempt at brewing and an automated RIMS all grain brewery.
> It consists of:
> View attachment 12601
> 
> .
> .
> .
> .
> 
> Cheers..



Holy crap Jonathon! That is one of my favourite posts on this site!

Do you have a website, with more details on the construction etc? Would love to know more, including the process control software you've put together and the parts used etc.

Brilliant mate. Well done.

Dave.


----------



## MAH

Jonathon said:


> To start with, I would say the whole rig has cost me no more than $1500.



If you build me a rig like yours I'll pay you $3000 for it.

Cheers
MAH


----------



## SJW

Wow TONY I thought I was going ok with 9 ball valves. But it is great to be able to pump from anywhere to anywhere.

Steve


----------



## Fents

MAH said:


> If you build me a rig like yours I'll pay you $3000 for it.
> 
> Cheers
> MAH



Then after your done building MAH's you can build me one WITH that milk VAT and i'll pay $3500. :beerbang:


----------



## sqyre

Holly Molly!!!!

That is....WICKED!! JONATHON!!! :super: 

i think you have pretty much just built the very thing that most of us "equipment makers" have been trying to build but havent yet succeeded at...

I was only just playing with those brand of Temp probes at work last week..

Well done...I raise my glass to you....  

Sqyre....  

(green with envy)


----------



## Cortez The Killer

Here is my amazing set up






More pics here http://hyperfox.info/webalbum02/index.html

It does the job - I'm gonna look into a stand when I get some time

Cheers


----------



## Kingy

Doesnt get much better than this K and K all the way,cant wait to transfer my shed into something along the lines of what u guys are doing


My you beuty 6 litre water boiler and my billy can for softening tin contents. h34r: 




my soon to be transformed shed into a AG Penthouse


----------



## Zizzle

Jonathon said:


> Yeah, I took it serious for a second, then i did have a look, I love it, Hey if it works.. The old Keep It Simple Stupid (KISS) .
> Hmm, Linux, heard good things never tried it. Good old XP sp2, hasn't locked up during a brew yet. not bad thats Two out of two brews! I'm sure it will.
> I have purchased a Moeller PLC off ebay, so the next Rig will be independant of a PC.



+1 for Linux. Knocking code togther in Python is easier than VB too (IMO).

As for control, I'd probably grab a nice little Atmel AVR controller board. They have plenty of IO capability (you can get rid of your usb thingy) and are pretty cheap ~$40.

I have absolutely no experience with PLCs. Can anyone compare using a PLC with using a general purpose micro controller?

I think I'd prefer to bash out a bit of C code than ladder logic.

How do PLCs go interfacing with PCs or other display technology (LCDs)?


----------



## oldbugman

OldBugman said:


> Since upgraded the mashtun








Oh and stuster this shows you how little room I have.


----------



## SpillsMostOfIt

Zizzle said:


> +1 for Linux. Knocking code togther in Python is easier than VB too (IMO).
> 
> As for control, I'd probably grab a nice little Atmel AVR controller board. They have plenty of IO capability (you can get rid of your usb thingy) and are pretty cheap ~$40.
> 
> I have absolutely no experience with PLCs. Can anyone compare using a PLC with using a general purpose micro controller?
> 
> I think I'd prefer to bash out a bit of C code than ladder logic.
> 
> How do PLCs go interfacing with PCs or other display technology (LCDs)?



The AVR stuff is really cool. You can program them in BASIC or C (etc, etc) and pay as little or as much as you want for the compiler, programmer, board, etc. I built my own board (for a robotics project) out of veroboard, built my own programmer and use WinAVR. I'm just trying to decide on a bootloader so I can permanently leave the Bluetooth interface in place.

If you don't want to go there, the NetMedia things are fantastic - either with your own board or one from Peter Anderson, or Parallax. The BASIC they use is very like VB (not the beer, or the airline) and quite pleasant as such things go...


----------



## redbeard

That looks like luxury to me oldbugman, dont you think Stuart ? I reckon I could swing a cat in that space ! perhaps, a small cat ... 

 :lol:


For those keen on microcontroller boards, check out www.sparkfun.com for reasonable single item prices on such

cheers

edit - avr info


----------



## Stuster

redbeard said:


> That looks like luxury to me oldbugman, dont you think Stuart ?
> 
> :lol:



Yep. Flash b*&(*(&d.


----------



## Pumpy

Zizzle said:


> +1 for Linux. Knocking code togther in Python is easier than VB too (IMO).
> 
> As for control, I'd probably grab a nice little Atmel AVR controller board. They have plenty of IO capability (you can get rid of your usb thingy) and are pretty cheap ~$40.
> 
> I have absolutely no experience with PLCs. Can anyone compare using a PLC with using a general purpose micro controller?
> 
> I think I'd prefer to bash out a bit of C code than ladder logic.
> 
> How do PLCs go interfacing with PCs or other display technology (LCDs)?



You tell him Zizzle !!!!

Pumpy


----------



## Duff

SpillsMostOfIt said:


> The AVR stuff is really cool. You can program them in BASIC or C (etc, etc) and pay as little or as much as you want for the compiler, programmer, board, etc. I built my own board (for a robotics project) out of veroboard, built my own programmer and use WinAVR. I'm just trying to decide on a bootloader so I can permanently leave the Bluetooth interface in place.
> 
> If you don't want to go there, the NetMedia things are fantastic - either with your own board or one from Peter Anderson, or Parallax. The BASIC they use is very like VB (not the beer, or the airline) and quite pleasant as such things go...



Pfffttt ^_^ 

Can a PC or software system tell you when you have added too much roast barley to that stout, or just added to a porter  , or if you truely believe that munich belongs in a Kolsch? Nope. 

Mine's basic BTW.

Cheers.


----------



## oldbugman

Stuster said:


> Yep. Flash b*&(*(&d.



says MR GARAGE minus EARTH


----------



## Stuster

OldBugman said:


> says MR GARAGE minus EARTH



How can people can be so unkind.







PS. I'm with Duff. I sit at a desk all day. Brewing is a chance to do something a bit more hands on.



:lol:


----------



## bonj

I tried to put an AVR project together a couple of years ago, but never managed to get it to work. I told you I wasn't that good with hardware. How many computer scientists does it take to change a lightbulb? None... that's a hardware problem. :lol:

I've never tried Python... should check it out. C and PHP are my usual weapons of choice.



Zizzle said:


> +1 for Linux. Knocking code togther in Python is easier than VB too (IMO).
> 
> As for control, I'd probably grab a nice little Atmel AVR controller board. They have plenty of IO capability (you can get rid of your usb thingy) and are pretty cheap ~$40.
> 
> I have absolutely no experience with PLCs. Can anyone compare using a PLC with using a general purpose micro controller?
> 
> I think I'd prefer to bash out a bit of C code than ladder logic.
> 
> How do PLCs go interfacing with PCs or other display technology (LCDs)?


----------



## poppa joe

Bonj.......
You got a blinker switch to go with those wheels.......?????????????  
I need one for my car......  
SORRY O.T. I know..... :lol: 
Cheers
PJ


----------



## PistolPatch

Glad you got my joke about plagiarising Jonathon. Phew!!!

BTW, Poppa Joe is Bonj's dad. It'll take a while for you to get that one but don't worry, it's not half as good or quick as Jayse's sky hook joke though I think it could possibly be true.

LOL
Pat


----------



## Jono_w

Pat,
Once I realized I had a damn good laugh..

Dave,
I have no webpage but if i find some time I might try and throw one together with some more info.

MAH,
Keep going $$$$ lol.


----------



## bonj

PistolPatch said:


> BTW, Poppa Joe is Bonj's dad. It'll take a while for you to get that one but don't worry, it's not half as good or quick as Jayse's sky hook joke though I think it could possibly be true.



Okay PP, enlighten me. Totally lost me on that one. :lol:
Although I can tell you that it isn't true. My dad doesn't live in Nowra, and drinks the cheapest light beer he can find. :lol: Or my homebrew when he's up from Victoria.


----------



## reVoxAHB

Jonathon said:


> Hmm, Linux, heard good things never tried it. Good old XP sp2, hasn't locked up during a brew yet. not bad thats Two out of two brews! I'm sure it will.



Another vote for linux here  

If you must stick with XP, consider using a stripped version like TinyXP(rev.5) or build your own using the following software: nliteos from your existing XPSP2 integrated .iso/CD. 

That way, you can keep only the parts of XP your rig requires. In doing so, you will free resources, improve stability and hopefully decrease the potential of XP/PC locking during a brew.

XP in and of itself, running processes or otherwise, is bloatware. 

For example,
TinyXP Rev5 Stats:
Windows Performance Info... 

Operating System RAM Memory Usage > 42Mb ( 3Mb)
WINDOWS folder > 397Mb
Running Processes on 1st install > 12
Install Time for Windows > 8 Minutes 
-----------------------------------------------------

That's a beautiful rig you've built! Well done and welcome to the forums!

I think you've created a new sub-genre: brewer's porn porn. :blink:
edit: dubbel porn


----------



## Jono_w

reVox, 
Tiny XP sounds good.
I still need to be run Visual Basic because the software is still very much under construction. I will look into it.


----------



## Pumpy

Duff said:


> Pfffttt ^_^
> 
> Can a PC or software system tell you when you have added too much roast barley to that stout, or just added to a porter  , or if you truely believe that munich belongs in a Kolsch? Nope.
> 
> Mine's basic BTW.
> 
> Cheers.



Duff ,

You must understand that some people get a lot of fun 'Pimping up their Brewery' 

Its like putting Mag wheels on your car .

Its like wearing a Bugs Bunny or Daffy duck neck tie in bright colours .

I suppose its the 'Wow factor' playing here .

It is not totally disimilar to a flashing logo that changes colour it used to be special but now even Batz has got one  

One should never knock R& D even in the Home brewery . 

Pumpy


----------



## ArnieW

Jonathon said:


> The Motorized valves are Honeywell VC6012 240v valve actuators. They were purchased for around $20 each surplus from www.oatleyelectronics.com they are good because they slowly (6 seconds ) actuate.


Hey Jonathon, I don't suppose you know if Oatley still has any - did a search on their website but could not find any. I don't suppose you have any spare either do you?

cheers, Arnie


----------



## Jono_w

ArnieW said:


> Hey Jonathon, I don't suppose you know if Oatley still has any - did a search on their website but could not find any. I don't suppose you have any spare either do you?
> 
> cheers, Arnie



Arnie,
Unfortunatly they had 8 and i used 7, they may be able to tell you if they could source some more.. Drop them an email.


----------



## oldbugman

Jonathon said:


> Arnie,
> Unfortunatly they had 8 and i used 7, they may be able to tell you if they could source some more.. Drop them an email.



Threw out quite a few(a couple of boxes full) of these recently

Not quite sure I'd be sending 100deg liquid thru them.


----------



## oldbugman

Found some info for you



> Two-way Cartridge Cage Valves. These 2-position (open/closed) hydronic valves are intended for use in a normal indoor environment to
> control the flow of hot and/or cold water, or glycol solution to 50% concentration. These valves are designed for on-off zone control of
> heating/cooling systems, or to control individual fan coil, baseboard radiator or convector applications. Depending on the model
> selected they can be controlled by either a low or line voltage SPST or SPDT controller, such as a room thermostat, aquastat or flow
> switch. For trouble-free operation of the product, good installation practice must include initial system flushing, chemical water
> treatment, and the use of a 50 micron (or finer) system side stream filter(s). Remove all filters before flushing.
> Valve Type: Unitary
> Body Pattern: Two-way, straight through
> Controlled Medium: Water w/max of 50% Glycol
> Stem Travel: 0.4 in. (10 mm)
> Valve Action: Stem up to close A port
> Maximum Operating Pressure: (20 Bar)
> Maximum Close-off Pressure: 60 psi (4 Bar)
> Timing (sec, min.) when used with VC series Actuator: On/Off
> models with 6 sec; Floating and modulating with 2 min.
> Fluid Temperature Range: 36 F to 230 F (1 C to 95 C)
> Ambient Temperature Range: 32 F to 150 F (0 C to 65 C)
> Materials
> (Body): Bronze
> (Stem): Stainless Steel
> (Cartridge): Ryton, Noryl engineering plastic
> (Packing): EPDM rubber
> Comments: Characterized cartridge for use with floating and modulating
> actuators
> Approvals:
> Canadian Standards Association: CSA Certified



Also a handy hint is you can change the guts of them with out removing the body from the pipe work.


----------



## Tony

Jonathon said:


> This is my pneumatic capper, so much easier.
> View attachment 12603
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers..



Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh thats what i did wrong.

I tried to build one based on a conventional bottle capper design but it just felxed backwards, and believe me it was strong.

That would eliminate the flex.

I have sent an email to try and recover the lost artifact from my previous employment and modify it to get it going.

I had it set up with a pressure switch so when the ram reacked a certain pressure after capping it operated a solenoid and sent the ram back up automaticly. Push buttin operation with indication lights............. man i was upset when it wouldnt push a cap on.

cheers


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## ArnieW

OldBugman said:


> Found some info for you
> Also a handy hint is you can change the guts of them with out removing the body from the pipe work.


Thanks OldBugman, but the problem with most of these types of valves is the small aperture which means you need things like the 50 micron filter. They would only be suitable for the most well behaved and filtered brewing machine. While I've never tried them, I think they are asking for trouble as any small grain husks will either block the valves or block the filters. Those motorised valves act more like normal large aperture ball valves - that's the kind I'm looking for.

Jonathan, I've sent off an email enquiry to Oatley.

cheers, Arnie


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## kirem

ArnieW said:


> Jonathan, I've sent off an email enquiry to Oatley.
> 
> cheers, Arnie



I would be interested in their response.


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## Jono_w

OldBugman said:


> Threw out quite a few(a couple of boxes full) of these recently
> 
> Not quite sure I'd be sending 100deg liquid thru them.



http://www.honeywell.se/energi/vceng.pdf
1 - 95deg C . 
Whats 5degC between friends!


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## oldbugman

yeah. didnt think they'd even go up to 95(hence why I posted the info I found on them), we use them with heating water in HVAC, thats 70ish deg.


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## PistolPatch

Bonj said:


> Okay PP, enlighten me. Totally lost me on that one. :lol:
> Although I can tell you that it isn't true. My dad doesn't live in Nowra, and drinks the cheapest light beer he can find. :lol: Or my homebrew when he's up from Victoria.



LOL Bonj. Poppa Joe is the master of BOAB - brewing on a budget. He would just love your creative brew stand of table, chairs, bricks and tyres. He'd be proud to call you, 'son.'

And Jonathon, Adamt mentioned Sqyres' possibly first post. You better check it out to give you some ideas for surroundings to match your brewery. Have a look here


Pat


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## Jono_w

Very Impressive.
Would you ever go to work?


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## apd

THE DRUNK ARAB said:


> BREWSTAND OF THE DECADE!!!
> 
> Classic Bonj!
> 
> C&B
> TDA



I think it could do without the table and chairs. They look a little too sturdy.

More tyres and bricks, I say!


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## bonj

:lol: I'll need to take the wheels off the Focus... but then it'll need the bricks under it.



apd said:


> I think it could do without the table and chairs. They look a little too sturdy.
> 
> More tyres and bricks, I say!


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## Jono_w

Hey Wally,
I use resistive type temp sensors..


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## browndog

I would not call my brewery Hi tech, it's a three vessle single tier system with a march pump. However, I am pretty proud of my mash tun. It is S/S with an aluminium inner liner and has a fibreglass/polystyrene float that sits on the mash to keep the heat from leaking into the headspace. There is a hole in the center to allow the temp probe to pass though into the middle of the mash. The lid of the tun is S/S and lined with polystyrene, and this has (wait for it) a carbon fibre liner. Now if anyone else uses carbon fibre in their brewery I want to know about it. 

check it out





cheers

Browndog


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## Fents

Nah thats not high tech at all browndog. Apart from the controlled HLT temp controller i see h34r:


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## ArnieW

ArnieW said:


> Thanks OldBugman, but the problem with most of these types of valves is the small aperture which means you need things like the 50 micron filter. They would only be suitable for the most well behaved and filtered brewing machine. While I've never tried them, I think they are asking for trouble as any small grain husks will either block the valves or block the filters. Those motorised valves act more like normal large aperture ball valves - that's the kind I'm looking for.
> 
> Jonathan, I've sent off an email enquiry to Oatley.
> 
> cheers, Arnie



So much for the email enquiry. Not happy - pretty half-assed response to the question:

I wrote:

_Dear Oatley sales people,

some time ago you sold some motorized Honeywell VC6012 240v valve actuators to a friend. I think they may have been a limited run item, but I was wondering if you had more available or were able to source something similar. _ 

And they answered:

_arnie,

probably not, have you checked our website._

So I guess the answer is exactly that - probably not.
:angry:


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## mika

That's a classic !!! Pat needs to put this in his funniest post thread :lol:


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## JSB

In other words - margins to tight...$3 profit....bugger off hairy legs

Cheers
JSB


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## ArnieW

JSB said:


> In other words - margins to tight...$3 profit....bugger off hairy legs
> 
> Cheers
> JSB



Yep, I guess it's like a no-frills warehouse. The consumer gets the benefit of cheap items, but there is no support or advice there if you need it.

I've done pretty well out of Oatley for bits and pieces - but they might as well not have bothered replying.


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## randyrob

my brewery is $9.99 more hi-tech now i have a control box  




there's even some room for a couple of DEI-106's

life is good

Rob.


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## Tony

Why didnt you put the 2 switches in the one face plate mate?

Ahhhhhh it looks more technical with 2 hey 

Your doomed now........ once you start, you cant stop. In a month you will have radio links to the dedicated computer in the lounge room, PLC's, SCADA, ahhhhhh 

cheers

Edit...... oh i see. The red hole is a light is it?

Bling Bling 

You wont catch me putting bling and tech toys on my gear


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## Doogiechap

Good to see Rob !!
I love the inginuity on this site, hmmm whats a good solid box I can mount stuff in, looks the part, has a hinged access door for easy future mods? A $250 electrical enclosure ?.....no..... a $10 toolbox ........ priceless :lol: .

Edit: Rob make sure you connect the electrical earth to the flash new case h34r: :wub:


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## chiller

Congrats to all the mad scientists on the list. some of the breweries are spectacular. 
Some of the stands are truly death defying 

Mine is gravity feed, Doberman protected and has a march pump.

Steve


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## tazman1967

chiller said:


> Congrats to all the mad scientists on the list. some of the breweries are spectacular.
> Some of the stands are truly death defying
> 
> Mine is gravity feed, Doberman protected and has a march pump.
> 
> Steve
> 
> View attachment 18200


O/T...Love your Doby Chiller..I miss my girl heap..Great setup ! Hope your fridges havent died in Hells Kitchen called Adelaide


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## damoncouper

Does any one know of a link that explains how a RIMS Chamber works?


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## damoncouper

MaltChew said:


> Does any one know of a link that explains how a RIMS Chamber works?




Hate to answer my own question but in case any one else is interested in flow rates ect , http://hbd.org/kroyster/ .


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## damoncouper

Jonathon, 



Can I suggest that for you next assignment, if you choose to accept it, you get a couple of robotic arms that are able to select grain, crush the grain, put into the tun, do hop and adjunct additions and most importantly cleanup. And if you are feeling adventurous, make them get you a beer while you sit in your recliner watching the symphony of brewing.


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## Jono_w

MaltChew said:


> Jonathon,
> 
> 
> 
> Can I suggest that for you next assignment, if you choose to accept it, you get a couple of robotic arms that are able to select grain, crush the grain, put into the tun, do hop and adjunct additions and most importantly cleanup. And if you are feeling adventurous, make them get you a beer while you sit in your recliner watching the symphony of brewing.




Funny you should say that, I actually have 4 adept robots in my shed (ebay)  .. Got to have some manual intervention otherwise it might get a mind of its own and start brewing VB..


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## FE2EK

I need an automated bottle washer that delabels, gets the growths out of the inside, cleans and sterilises. Can Jonathon help with a design please. Geoff


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