# Wadde Want, Polyclar Brewbrite. Wenna We Want It? Now



## Bribie G (28/6/10)

I have actually obtained a quantity of Polyclar Brewbrite (use in kettle in last 10 minutes of boil) - from a confidential source - and will report on results.


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## peas_and_corn (28/6/10)

Congratulations?


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## Batz (28/6/10)

peas_and_corn said:


> Congratulations?




:lol: :lol:


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## Bribie G (28/6/10)

Not really, it's just that although this product is available commercially it's not stocked by any of our Aus home brew suppliers. It's as if Isinglass was not available in Australia - please explain.


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## potof4x (28/6/10)

Hello Bribie. Have been using polyclar VT as kettle fining for my BIAB batches (only 3 so far) . The link you posted wont work on my 'puter. How is the brew brite better?

Don't really know if the vt is going any good as my lagers are lagering right now!


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## haysie (28/6/10)

potof4x said:


> Hello Bribie. Have been using polyclar VT as kettle fining for my BIAB batches (only 3 so far) . The link you posted wont work on my 'puter. How is the brew brite better?
> 
> Don't really know if the vt is going any good as my lagers are lagering right now!



Hey 4x, kettle fining? as instead of koppa, whirl? I remember maybe TB throwing this up in a BIAB thread a few moons ago, it was all a bit technical but having some unused vt on hand I gave it a go as a kettle addition, made no difference! but i didnt have a haze problem to start with <_< 
The brewbrite genda is, a lot of this is good "if" i.e
_Factors Affecting Polyclar Brewbrite Performance
Several raw-material and process factors affect the performance
of Polyclar Brewbrite in practice. These include: malt variety,
degree of malt modification, mashing temperature and profile,
time of addition, dose rate, hot wort clarity, wort gravity,
wort pH, level of cold break protein, and wort polyphenol levels._

Rest assured it`s ok in your beer so they say,.... the experts said caramel they used in the big breweries in the 70`s was ok too h34r: .


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## Ross (28/6/10)

Bribie,

Plenty of products already on the market that will give you similar if not better results. Brewbrite's MSDS, until recently, stated its shelf life once opened, as being very short (just a few months) so was not really viable as a home brew repacked item. I'm not sure if the product has been changed at all, but the lack of any "best before" now being quoted seems a little suss. With the move to our new brewery we'll be giving this product a trial & depending on results & answers to the questions we'll be asking the manufacturer we may stock it.

Good brewing practice should really make most of these products unnecessary, though I'm guillty as the next man in often taking the easy option.

Cheers Ross


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## brettprevans (28/6/10)

Hey brib, is this the stuff u guys were talking about at chappos brew day and several of u thought was shit hot? Cause u guys had pretty good results from what I remember of the day...


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## Bribie G (28/6/10)

Will be interesting to see the results, Ross. Brewers have been using stuff like Isinglass, Caragheenan, diatomeceous earth, etc for a long time for good reason and I wouldn't call it an 'easy option' as such, just that if it's available to the trade out there it's nice to be able to get it for home use as well to play around with. I agree that for, say a trad lager then a good long primary and a month or so in lagering then it's sorted itself out without further tweaking. However it there are agents to give various beers better wort collection, stability and clarity then why not.


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## Bribie G (28/6/10)

citymorgue2 said:


> Hey brib, is this the stuff u guys were talking about at chappos brew day and several of u thought was shit hot? Cause u guys had pretty good results from what I remember of the day...



Thats the stuff, crystal clear beer as we saw and tasted on the day h34r:


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## beersom (28/6/10)

Brewbrite is awesome ! I was a sceptic the first time I used it but soon became a complete convert. When combined with a good whirlpool and rest it is the best kettle fining by a mile.


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## Bribie G (28/6/10)

It seems to be well respected in the industry, I suppose from our point of view - as Ross explained - it's a question of getting a stable reliable product that can be distributed in-date to the home brewers. At a good price as well


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## Thirsty Boy (29/6/10)

I have requested samples of the stuff.. there is even a small chance I might get them one day (but I hold no great hope)

I guess if you aren't currently a PVPP user, then brew bright wont hold a lot of attraction - but I certainly am. The ability to add it as a substitute for my current carageenan addition, ditch a separate PVPP addition and kill 2 birds with one stone would take a chunk of effort out of each beer I make.

Perhaps if those of us who were interested put in a pre-order?? Then when there are enough of us it might justify Ross (or another retailer) buying a package, splitting it up and shipping it out all in one go. Whether we use it before it goes bung then becomes our problem - we bought it aware of the issue.

I'd be up for that.

TB


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## Bongchitis (29/6/10)

Count me in if you are examining that option thirsty, always looking for improvements to my process.

Cheers.


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## Batz (29/6/10)

I seem to be getting different messages on this BrewBrite depending on who I'm speaking to about it.

Does it do the same as Polyclar, that is fix chill haze or does it also act like koppa, whirl ? 
I would need to know the shelf life of the product as Ross indicates it would be very short and therefore as home brewers we may be storing it to long, I see you only need to add 2-4 gms per 23lt batch.
How long has this BrewBrite been about before we even order any?

Batz


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## Ross (29/6/10)

Batz,

It basically performs like a mix of whirfloc/polyclar as a one addition fix. They do recommend adding polyclar afterwards if still having haze issues, so maybe not a complete fix.


cheers Ross


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## Batz (29/6/10)

Ross said:


> Batz,
> 
> It basically performs like a mix of whirfloc/polyclar as a one addition fix. They do recommend adding polyclar afterwards if still having haze issues, so maybe not a complete fix.
> 
> ...




Cheers Ross, I don't have a problem with chill haze since using a stepped mash. Having said this I still use polyclar in my lagers and pils as part of my brewing regime, mainly because I have a ship load of the stuff :lol: 
I do know a brewer or two testing BrewBrite atm but if you don't have a problem before using it how can you tell if it works  

Batz


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## Ross (29/6/10)

Batz said:


> I do know a brewer or two testing BrewBrite atm but if you don't have a problem before using it how can you tell if it works
> 
> Batz



Exactly, & why I had a wry smile at the guys commenting at the brew meet on how good it was, difficult to do a true side by side when adding to the boil. That said, the beer was bright & that's what you're looking for, so definately an option worthy of further investigation.

Cheers Ross


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## brettprevans (29/6/10)

well i should be a test case then. i dont filter and only use whifloc in kettle. so my beers tend not to be too bright until they have had a lot of cold conditioning. Ive never paid too much attention to the looks becasue unless its in a comp, im brewing for myself and i dont care all that much about looks to worry about going to the extra effort.

as said, shelf life would be the make or break issue i recon.


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## SpillsMostOfIt (29/6/10)

Thirsty Boy said:


> I have requested samples of the stuff.. there is even a small chance I might get them one day (but I hold no great hope)



Good luck with that. I tried a couple of times to get a sample out of them a while back and nothing happened. I can't find the discussion thread of the moment.

Adding PVPP to the boil appeals to me due to the reduction in the number of *things* I have to do along the path, and what it does do appeals to me because I tend to have a fairly fast 'boil to glass' regime these days. It does seem to work for me, but the effects are not as marked as the separate addition, I think.


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## Bribie G (29/6/10)

The thing that attracts me to the product is that I can add the stuff to the boil, then all I have to do later on is gelatine - or isinglass - on racking to help drop the yeast in a 'running beer' such as a UK Best Bitter. So I can hopefully get a nice bright pint without the need to lager the stuff then polyclar it - which is not really the best way to treat a UK ale. In any case I don't like to open the lid on the secondary jerrycan because the beer has basically stopped emitting CO2 and every time I open it to pop this and that and the other into it, then give it a shake, that's one more dose of O2 getting into the beer. 

So I'll be able just to add gelatine/isinglass and late hop on racking, seal it up tighter than a fishes' bum and leave it for a few days before kegging :icon_cheers: Lagers are not the issue really because I now lager for at least 3 weeks and they sort themselves out as lagers have always done, but I'll still use the stuff as an insurance policy.

Edit: off topic a bit, Batz I've avoided step mashes (although I can easily do one with Urn / BIAB) because I've been worried about head retention using well modified malts - I rarely use German malts - is this an issue? Or am I off track there?


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## haysie (29/6/10)

Why is hard to get your hands on the stuff according to a few here?. Is it a goer Ross? to see who`s interested and let them split up a bag/pack/pallet.


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## Bribie G (29/6/10)

It seems the only way to get it is in a 25kg sack for about $60 a kilo, as it's basically a commercial brewery item. In itself that's not too bad considering that a 90g of Polyclar is now around $10 with dealer profit margin which not only consists of markup but also the fact you have to pay someone to bag and label the 90g lots, so it's well in the ballpark as far as cost goes.


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## haysie (29/6/10)

BribieG said:


> It seems the only way to get it is in a 25kg sack for about $60 a kilo, as it's basically a commercial brewery item. In itself that's not too bad considering that a 90g of Polyclar is now around $10 with dealer profit margin which not only consists of markup but also the fact you have to pay someone to bag and label the 90g lots, so it's well in the ballpark as far as cost goes.



I sure would substitute kettle finings for something that _maybe better_ on the market. Bribie makes a good point, does an English ale really require c/cing, gelatine, polyclar and a lagering period. I doubt it.


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## Batz (29/6/10)

BribieG said:


> It seems the only way to get it is in a 25kg sack for about $60 a kilo, as it's basically a commercial brewery item. In itself that's not too bad considering that a 90g of Polyclar is now around $10 with dealer profit margin which not only consists of markup but also the fact you have to pay someone to bag and label the 90g lots, so it's well in the ballpark as far as cost goes.




You need to put out some 100gm sampler packs Bribie, OK charge a bit more for handling etc. I'll take one and post you an addressed return post pack.

If it's as good as we are hearing it is I'm sure we'll all want a larger amount.

Batz


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## Bribie G (29/6/10)

Batz, I don't have the 25kg sack, I just got 500 from the guy who _does_ have the sack :icon_cheers:


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## Batz (29/6/10)

BribieG said:


> Batz, I don't have the 25kg sack, I just got 500 from the guy who _does_ have the sack :icon_cheers:




I know. 




> You need to put out some 100gm sampler packs , OK charge a bit more for handling etc. I'll take one and post you an addressed return post pack.
> 
> If it's as good as we are hearing it is I'm sure we'll all want a larger amount.
> 
> Batz



Same same  

Batz


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## RdeVjun (29/6/10)

BribieG said:


> The thing that attracts me to the product is that I can add the stuff to the boil, then all I have to do later on is gelatine - or isinglass - on racking to help drop the yeast in a 'running beer' such as a UK Best Bitter. So I can hopefully get a nice bright pint without the need to lager the stuff then polyclar it - which is not really the best way to treat a UK ale. In any case I don't like to open the lid on the secondary jerrycan because the beer has basically stopped emitting CO2 and every time I open it to pop this and that and the other into it, then give it a shake, that's one more dose of O2 getting into the beer.


My FSM- you shake the secondary? Perhaps I've misunderstood? :blink: 
I've become less inclined to do any secondary these days or add anything to a finishing primary, only occasionally add some hops tea and gelatine (almost exclusively on ESBs, next will actually be agar), but I just pour it in and shut it back up. Whirlfloc and gelatine seems to get most of what I need done, only a bit of chill haze from time to time which seems to be mainly a cosmetic flaw anyway.
I'd agree though, adding more flocculant to the boil is far more attractive to me.


BribieG said:


> So I'll be able just to add gelatine/isinglass and late hop on racking, seal it up tighter than a fishes' bum and leave it for a few days before kegging icon_cheers.gif Lagers are not the issue really because I now lager for at least 3 weeks and they sort themselves out as lagers have always done, but I'll still use the stuff as an insurance policy.
> 
> Edit: off topic a bit, Batz I've avoided step mashes (although I can easily do one with Urn / BIAB) because I've been worried about head retention using well modified malts - I rarely use German malts - is this an issue? Or am I off track there?


AFAIK, the head retention problem is mainly a problem with step- mashed ale malts (in particular just protein- rested) at least that's been my experience and much the same has been related in other discussions with brewers far more experienced than I could ever hope to be. FWIW, I've done much the same mash schedule with some Munich Helles (Wey Bo Pils) and then with a variety of ale malts (all TF or Bairds), the only ones with head retention issues were the decocted/ stepped ales. I only did it with the ales as it was handy to facilitate decoctions as I was using 100% base malt (for 'educational' benefit) and I don't do that much any more. 
I'd certainly be wary if stepping ale malts, unless you have a good reason of course.
Hope this helps! :icon_cheers:

Edit: Maybe this Crouch Vale English Bitter could have the answer if you want to protein rest ale malt- loads of Carafoam?? :unsure:


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## Smashin (29/6/10)

Been a few full moons past since this topic was last up. I've been using brewbrite for about 2 1/2 yrs now and have been on the samesample I was sent, so fears of shelf life efficiacy could proove in favour of brewbrite being stocked by a HB shop. Were my beers brighter clearer, more chill haze resistant compared to koppa floc etc... I couldn't really say. Out of interest i recently went to double brewing double batches and have since had haze issues. I've even trippled the dose of brewbrite with no luck, i went back and tried koppa floc and no significant differnce in the finished chilled beer. I gave whirl floc arun for the first time and it didn't resolve the issue

A fellow brewer came over for a brew day and noted that my wort doesn't boil anywhere near as hard as his and he has no issues with chill haze, so a rambo burner was hastilly purchased and used on my next brew. Hey presto clear beer and I'm back to where I was before turning to double batches, if not better... so where am I going with my yabberings..i spose my point is that look at your process before looking for the next greatest product. (i should not that this brew i used 1whirlfloc as recommended).Given my experience here i can only put farward the fact that i will continue to use whirfloc from this point on for the simple fact it is easy to use on brew day and this is hard to say coming from an avid brewbrite advocate. For those that have not used brewbrite or polyclar these products do take some some preparation time, not heaps but it is nice to just throw a tab in the kettle on brew day. KISS principal at work.

Blah blah blah.... any way hope my rambles contibute to the discusion in some useful way,

Cheers Smashin :icon_cheers: 




BribieG said:


> Batz, I don't have the 25kg sack, I just got 500 from the guy who _does_ have the sack :icon_cheers:


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## haysie (29/6/10)

Smashin said:


> Been a few full moons past since this topic was last up. I've been using brewbrite for about 2 1/2 yrs now and have been on the samesample I was sent, so fears of shelf life efficiacy could proove in favour of brewbrite being stocked by a HB shop. Were my beers brighter clearer, more chill haze resistant compared to koppa floc etc... I couldn't really say. Out of interest i recently went to double brewing double batches and have since had haze issues. I've even trippled the dose of brewbrite with no luck, i went back and tried koppa floc and no significant differnce in the finished chilled beer. I gave whirl floc arun for the first time and it didn't resolve the issue
> 
> A fellow brewer came over for a brew day and noted that my wort doesn't boil anywhere near as hard as his and he has no issues with chill haze, so a rambo burner was hastilly purchased and used on my next brew. Hey presto clear beer and I'm back to where I was before turning to double batches, if not better... so where am I going with my yabberings..i spose my point is that look at your process before looking for the next greatest product. (i should not that this brew i used 1whirlfloc as recommended).Given my experience here i can only put farward the fact that i will continue to use whirfloc from this point on for the simple fact it is easy to use on brew day and this is hard to say coming from an avid brewbrite advocate. For those that have not used brewbrite or polyclar these products do take some some preparation time, not heaps but it is nice to just throw a tab in the kettle on brew day. KISS principal at work.
> 
> ...




Smashin,
Thats a great post and an unbiased one. Is brightness about personal,others or judges perception? I would say personally most of us want our beers to appear well. 
Others will always look in a glass before they taste it. 
Judges will screen it depending on their knowledge.

What is the prep time for brewbrite you mention?


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## haysie (12/7/10)

I used 10 gms of brewbrite in a Munich Helles yesterday. Not quite sure what preparation was required as smashin mentions? I simply threw mine in the boil at 30 minutes, it was clumpy but soon dissolved.
What was really amazing to us all on the day, was the massive massive amount of cold break in the fermenter via the plate chiller. Have many times observed cold break but never of this volume. Having a peek 24 hours later, the break has settled to about 3 inches deep in my carboy. Am thinking this stuff maybe :super: . Will post back finished results.







edit, hot break I didnt notice any real difference i.e had a nice same as always tight cone of trub n break, I did late hop with some csaaz and wanted to retain the aroma, therefore didnt waste much time between flame out and hitting the plate.


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## Thirsty Boy (12/7/10)

I too just tried Brewbrite for the first time on Saturday

Can't of course report on how it affect chill haze yet - but as a kettle finings it work beautifully well. Added at 10mins left in the boil - just sprinkled on top. Formed good sized flocs of hot break that settled fast and formed into a nice compact and stable trub cone. I was able to drain more and cleaner wort to my NC cube than I have ever managed before.

Cold break .. looking at my NC cube now, it seems to have formed into a tighter and lower layer than it usually does. Not sure if this is because the Brewbright has made for more compact cold break, because there is less than usual hot break in there, or a combination of both.

Anyway - its a Munich Helles.. I normally suffer from light but noticeable chill haze with no treatment - so I'll report back on the effectiveness it gives me for chill haze reduction once the beer is filtered and in the keg... maybe a month.

Cheers to the anonymous donor... worth while as a kettle finings alone.

TB


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## Batz (12/7/10)

My next brew will be having an addition of BrewBrite as well, I'll post my findings.

Batz


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## haysie (19/7/10)

I brewed a pretty simple Best Bitter and used the Brewbrite. I was wondering if you other guys are just dumping your dose in the boil or preparing? I am adding at 30 minutes prior to flameout and getting clumping of the brewbrite itself, sort of like a hard lollie, then takes about 15-20 minutes and it does eventually dissolve.
So if I was adding at say 10 as I would my whirlfloc, It wouldnt be dissolved I guess.

Again the hot break on this brew was nice n tight, good clear run off but cant see any difference betwwen brewbrite n whirlfloc, never had a prob in the past with getting clear wort to the fermenter via my simple 3v kit. So maybe its more about the end result for mine 



Again, massive amounts of cold break, this IMO can only be a good thing for the end product and again IMO is certainly a result of the brewbrite.



A very happy ferment 6 hours later


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## Bribie G (19/7/10)

I mix mine to a slurry in a small bowl with cold water then tip into the boil. I collected a spare Schott of wort to make a starter, after 24 hours there's a nice layer of cold break. This morning the cold break was hanging like a big jellyfish in the middle of the bottle but now it's settled down. The hot break (no photo available) had settled down onto the bottom of the urn like a pancake. Very impressive, and that's why I got the extra wort out, normally I would only get a cube.


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## haysie (19/7/10)

Was there a placebo :blink:

edit, brewing up a hausbrew next couple of days, I WONT use brewbrite and photo up the carboy.


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## pvpp (24/7/10)

Hello,

We,ATP Chemicals Group, are reliable supplier of Polyclar PVPP raw material,with high quality and competitive price.

Call or email to us, More info will sent to you at once.

Tel:+86 21 51698436
Fax:+86 21 51698436
atpchems dot com
Email to 
info at atpchems dot com


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## pvpp (24/7/10)

BribieG said:


> I have actually obtained a quantity of Polyclar Brewbrite (use in kettle in last 10 minutes of boil) - from a confidential source - and will report on results.




Hello,

We,ATP Chemicals Group, are reliable supplier of Polyclar PVPP raw material,with high quality and competitive price.

Call or email to us, More info will sent to you at once.

Tel:+86 21 51698436
Fax:+86 21 51698436
atpchems dot com
Email to 
info at atpchems dot com


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## haysie (29/7/10)

EDIT8 pvppp? is brewbrite available to the homebrew community? if so, where? is it competitive with other well proven finings i.e koppafloc/whirlfolc etc? 
and edit 5> A look see at your profile. Any more spam to throw up? Mods need to deal with shit like you.
(removed for the childrens sake)

no final beer to post, both above mentioned beers are c/cing and ready for a bottle or keg come the weekend, the results are looking hmmm, not convinced ...YET!


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## MHB (29/7/10)

Since it's been getting so much attention I got some to have a play with. Filtered a bit of wheat beer through the version of Pollyclar with the Silica Xerogel, must say I was very impressed with the results. The beer was 10% unmalted and 45% malted Wheat, cooled it down to about -2oC (yes that's ice in the glass), still crystal clear, normally this beer is very hazy.



MHB


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## Thirsty Boy (30/7/10)

Mixing a bit of silica gel into the fray certainly bumps up the effectiveness of the pvpp... Although, I have tried gel by itself a couple of times and haven't been able to make it work yet. been pretty cautious with it though as it goes after proteins and I was worried about killing off head retention.


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## haysie (12/8/10)

I am not sure of the science behind this stuff, hence the pics attached to my post`s, i.e commenting on experience hands on only.
I have cracked both kegs the English and the Helles and what is very clear no pun intended is the beer is brite from the very first pour, i usally have brite beer but sometimes it can take til halfway down the keg. Beers were not filtered. No noticable chill haze, although I very rarely have a prob with haze.
The English is remarkably clear considering the Marris Otter. All in all, a winner. If i did get the placebo, I put it all down to good brewing practices  , am more a brewer than a photographer.
Dont understand why it isnt available, other polyclar products are.


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## Fourstar (12/8/10)

haysie said:


> I am not sure of the science behind this stuff, hence the pics attached to my post`s, i.e commenting on experience hands on only.
> I have cracked both kegs the English and the Helles and what is very clear no pun intended is the beer is brite from the very first pour, i usally have brite beer but sometimes it can take til halfway down the keg. Beers were not filtered. No noticable chill haze, although I very rarely have a prob with haze.
> The English is remarkably clear considering the Marris Otter. All in all, a winner. If i did get the placebo, I put it all down to good brewing practices  , am more a brewer than a photographer.
> Dont understand why it isnt available, other polyclar products are.




*Haze*-ie! Lookin pretty bright to me!

Sounds like ive got to get my hand on some asap!


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## haysie (12/8/10)

Fourstar said:


> *Haze*-ie! Lookin pretty bright to me!
> 
> Sounds like ive got to get my hand on some asap!



Mate, get some if you can, with added filtering WOW factor.
Best part of brewing is trialing things,methods,ingredients. I have a double batch of Brown Porter in the mash tun as I type, my normal mash paddle come hamburger flipper wont reach to the bottom, hence I am now trialing a 9 iron as a mash paddle :lol:


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## JonnyAnchovy (12/8/10)

So when can we expect to see this, site sponsors?


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## Bribie G (12/8/10)

JonnyAnchovy said:


> So when can we expect to see this, site sponsors?


I'm not cynically suggesting that suppliers are reluctant to sell it as it would impact on sales of two other existing items. I completely accept that it's because of doubts about the shelf life. However at least one major supplier now has the on-site brewing capacity to give it a whirl. The 'samples' etc doing the rounds at the moment have not all been treated as well as packs of Brewbrite that would live in the suppliers' cold rooms or even freezers and so far getting good results. My current brews I forgot to gelatine and some yeast haze in keg still there, but dropping. However on chilling bottles that have dropped clear (I get a keg plus 4 bottles out of each brew) no chill haze.


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## haysie (12/8/10)

Brewed a double batch of Brown Porter today, wasnt going to use Brewbrite because of the color....... but did. This is my first no-chill using Brewbrite so no pics of massive cold break attached. Made a slurry as per BribieG recent post but still getting clumping of this stuff.
Post up in a few weeks the finished result.


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## AndrewQLD (13/8/10)

My experience is very similar to yours Haysie, Brewbrite only, no other finings and no filtering and only a week in the keg.


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## Fourstar (13/8/10)

yep, its official. i need to get my hands on some of this magical plastic! 

I winder of polyclar works in the boil (as its basically brewbrite without the carageenan)

My partner has an ABN, anyone ordered a sample with success?!? any cost involved? i wouldnt mind their 8oz sample... would get me through a couple of years of brewing.


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## SpillsMostOfIt (13/8/10)

Fourstar said:


> I winder of polyclar works in the boil (as its basically brewbrite without the carageenan)



I tried this a while ago (there's a thread here somewhere). It kinda does, but I cannot compare the result to true brewbrite. I'm not having too many problems without it though, if I am patient enough - which I generally am not...


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## Fourstar (13/8/10)

SpillsMostOfIt said:


> I tried this a while ago (there's a thread here somewhere). It kinda does, but I cannot compare the result to true brewbrite. I'm not having too many problems without it though, if I am patient enough - which I generally am not...



hmm i wodner if whirlfloc and polyclar together have good enough effects. been reading a few spec sheets and info.. it looks like a nifty little product. :icon_cheers:


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## dicko (13/8/10)

Fourstar said:


> hmm i wodner if whirlfloc and polyclar together have good enough effects. been reading a few spec sheets and info.. it looks like a nifty little product. :icon_cheers:



Hi Fourstar,

I tried this yesterday with an Alt.
The beer certainly looked clearer than other times in the kettle at the end of the boil and while it was running from the chiller to the fermenter.
I pitched a nice healthy starter last night and put the lot into the fermentation fridge.
Checked it this morning and no activity at all. 
Now I know I may sound like a newb but I have never had this happen before.
I tried rousing the brew by stirring and increasing the temperature and in the end I have now pitched a dried yeast.
I wonder if the floccing activity of the polyclar pulled all the yeast I pitched down to the bottom of the fermenter?
I have been thinking maybe I should have let the brew settle overnight and then rack to a clean fermenter.
My beers usually fire up within the first few hours or so.

Btw the yeast was a 1275 wyeast, the ferment temp was 18deg and the wort was aerated.

Cheers


----------



## Fourstar (13/8/10)

polyclar bonds polyphenols, i dont think it has an effect on yeast.


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## dicko (13/8/10)

Fourstar said:


> polyclar bonds polyphenols, i dont think it has an effect on yeast.



Yes that is what I believe, so, I have another problem!

So to answer your enquiry I think it does work if I can say this at the unfermented wort stage.

Cheers


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## Thirsty Boy (13/8/10)

polyclar mixed with carageenan will (does) work to an extent in the boil... but I can only assume that the Brewbrite product does something more, or more tricky about balancing the two together. Neither will (should) have any particular effect in making yeast floc out early & as a matter of fact it could _possibly_ have the opposite effect via reducing wort calcium levels vs no kettle finings.

I reckon what we might be seeing with the pictures of bright beer posted - is an example of the fact that a lot of haze you see in beer is in fact chill haze. Guys who normally consider their beer pretty clear and without chill haze issues, are seeing it _genuinely_ without chill haze and noticing the difference.

and thats where I see this product hitting its straps - if you normally suffer from chill haze (me) I'm not sure that brewbrite by itself is going to fix the problem... but if you normally make pretty clear beer - brewbrite might just change that "pretty" to a "very"


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## Thirsty Boy (15/8/10)

OK - the helles I brewed with this stuff is done with primary and I have been crashing it for about 3 days. So its beer now and its either chill haze free beer or it isn't.

I normally get a light but stubborn chill haze in all my beers, I use a malt that's slightly high in protein.. yeah yeah, there's all sorts of things I could do, but what I actually do is polyclar before filtration. Diamond bright pretty much every time after that ... No polyclar = haze.

*Here's what I got from PC Brewbrite.*

This sample was heated to 25C to make sure no chill haze could be formed and filtered through CG-50 grade glass fibre filter paper to get rid of yeast and any hot haze/bits. Photos are reasonably big to provide detail - sorry about the download burden.

This is close to as clear as this beer will ever be... a little better perhaps after going through the 1 micron. *At 23C*




Then I put it in an ice bath to chill it down and see if the Brewbrite got rid of the haze forming polyphenols or not.

*At 7C* The haze at the bottom is fog on the glass. you can see the clarity up the top though.




*At 4C *- so between 4 & 7 where you would probably be drinking a light lager... all looking good. 




*And at a truly mega-lager worthy 1.5C*. A little haze down at these icy depths, but still pretty damn good.




So -- while I understand that we will never know if this beer would have had chill haze without the brewbrite.... every single other beer I have ever made has had chill haze without treatment - and this one seems to not have a chill haze problem.

*My results from Polyclar Brewbrite so far are:*

Great job as a kettle fining with a tight trub cone, clear cast wort and far less wort lost to kettle trub than normal

&

Seemingly Chill haze free beer.

So unless it somehow makes the beer taste like crap... I think I might be sold for now.

TB


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## Bribie G (15/8/10)

One thing that I saw yesterday that I haven't ever seen with Whirlfloc tablets is that when I stirred in the paste, immediately _zap_ the wort turned into a "breadcrumb" soup with the white particles suspended in a suddenly bright wort, and on flame out they sank rapidly.


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## bum (15/8/10)

Any word on the shelf-life issue yet?


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## Thirsty Boy (15/8/10)

Yep, same here Bribie - normally when I put in my kettle finings (I use course ground k-carageenan) what happens is that over a period of time, mostly in the whirlpool... The flocs of hot break aggregate together into larger snowflake like chunks. the brew bright makes it look like someone has coarsely crumbled stale bread into the brew pot. Rounder chunkier particles that rapidly sank.

How much you using? I used 6g in a 25L post boil volume. Hydrated the stuff into a slurry with cold water before stirring it in.

TB


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## MHB (16/8/10)

I've had a long hard look at the shelf life question before spending the best part of a K on getting some into stock (the chemists that work for the manufacture were very helpful). Apparently the product doesn't degrade as such, it takes up moisture and gets gluggy and hard to use.

Comes down to finding suitable packaging, settled on 250 mL pharmaceutical jars with wadded lids (gives the best moisture and air exclusion and easy access) and packaged with a Silica-Gel moisture absorbing sachet. Choosing a smaller jar than the 500 mL jars I use for everything else means the product isn't around as long and if people take care to close the jar immediately and keep it closed when not being used the Brewbrite should be good for over a year.

Early reports coming in on both the Brewbrite and the Polyclar7030+ are very encouraging; personally I'm very impressed with the Polyclar7030+ used in conjunction with a filter. This form of Ployclar has both PVPP and Silica, so it tackles both the Polyphenols and the key proteins that combine to cause haze.

I went for a midrange number ~4 g in 25 litres (rounded teaspoon full) when trialling the Brewbrite and could pretty much cut and paste from Bribie's and TB's posts.

The method I've been using with the Polyclar is to add it to a keg of well chilled well racked beer, leave it over night (in the fridge), then shake it up before filtering (I posted a picture a page or so back) that was through a sub-micron DE paper filter which clogged up pretty quickly, so next time I'm going to add some filter-aide (paper pulp).

I always knew these products worked, guess I'm just a bit surprised at how well.

Interesting Times

MHB


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## Bribie G (16/8/10)

Thirsty Boy said:


> Yep, same here Bribie - normally when I put in my kettle finings (I use course ground k-carageenan) what happens is that over a period of time, mostly in the whirlpool... The flocs of hot break aggregate together into larger snowflake like chunks. the brew bright makes it look like someone has coarsely crumbled stale bread into the brew pot. Rounder chunkier particles that rapidly sank.
> 
> How much you using? I used 6g in a 25L post boil volume. Hydrated the stuff into a slurry with cold water before stirring it in.
> 
> TB



two rounded teaspoons. 
I've repackaged mine into these in the freezer and it's free running and not getting sticky at all.


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## bum (16/8/10)

Thanks, MHB.


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## Thirsty Boy (16/8/10)

+1 Thanks Mark.

I've used silical gel in conjunction with polyclar VT... now that seriously kills off any chill haze, and if you are careful about oxygen and perhaps can bring yourself to use a little S02... you'd get almost big brewery shelf life out of filtered and kegged beers.

Your method with the polyclar is exactly why the brewbrite is a product that interests me so much... I almost always filter via gravity, directly from the primary. So to get normal polyclar into the beer, I have to open up the primary, stir the stuff in without stirring up the yeast etc close it up and let it sit for a while, hoping it all gets enough contact to do its job. The brewbrite has done its work already, so I can just bung the beer through the filter without any further interference.

I'm still not totally sold... taking the polyphenols out in the kettle can have other effects, reduction of cold break volume being one of them. That may well be a good thing - or it might not. But for now, I like the way its looking.

TB


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## matr (20/8/10)

I'm gonna pick some of this up tomorrow. 
Has anyone used it directly into the fermenter? 
If so what were the results like ?

Cheers, Mat


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## Banshee (21/8/10)

Anyone heard and/or tried this. Add about 30g of finely crushed black malt to your light beers at the end of mash. the addition will not change the colour greatly but will absorb some of the polyphenols, tannins and long chained proteins that cause chill haze and astringent character in beers. Some of the largest breweries in the USA use this method for some of their lightest beers. You may have already noticed that chill haze is less of a problem (even nonexistant) in dark beers.Aha

20 litre batch size


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## haysie (22/8/10)

MHB said:


> I've had a long hard look at the shelf life question before spending the best part of a K on getting some into stock (the chemists that work for the manufacture were very helpful). Apparently the product doesn't degrade as such, it takes up moisture and gets gluggy and hard to use.




Exactly the problem I am having, gluggy and floats around doing nothing, thats what happened again this morning. I didnt transfer from original packaging thou? so am guessing in my very very cold brewhaus a fair amount of moisture has been absorbed?
Added a half koppa tab as well for justin.
If you are stocking this MHB, how do recommend people prepare it? Is there really a need to make a slurry if as your packaging suggests includes a moisture absorbant?


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## MHB (22/8/10)

The Moisture Absorber is one of those little bags of silica gel, like you get in a lot of packaged food and electronic equipment it's inside the jar to keep the Brewbrite dry, you don't (please) add it to the kettle.

I got the best result by adding two rounded teaspoons (50 L batch) to some water to make a slurry, then just poured it into the whirlpool.

Very effective kettle fining, the amount of break and the way it clumped was amazing, as mentioned by a couple of other people who have tried it. I'm still a couple of weeks away from knowing how effective the PVPP part is at reducing chill haze, but it will be my kettle fining of choice from now on.

MHB



Bribie

I looked at the Ziploc barrier bags as an option, they are cheaper than the jars I chose, the problem was that if some of the Brewbrite powder got into the Zipper you lost your moisture seal, Ok if you're very careful, and are willing to keep it in a freezer where the relative humidity is effectively zero. Not really a good choice for commercial packaging where you are protecting someone's investment often from the purchaser.

M


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## haysie (22/8/10)

What I am asking is, not adding moisture absorbant packets to the boil BUT if thats how you read it, I am asking and providing feedback, this stuff may have a shelf life problem IMO with moisture, as MHB`S chemist verified. So adding a or a couple of moisture absorbant packs will fix? then great. Comparative to other finings re. preparation? why is there a need to make a slurry? its absorbant aka other pvpp products, why not add 10 minutes out and its absorbed and done its job. In my case I think my batch has already absorbed a heap of moisture, it will not break down but only clump like flour balls. Then I guess one has to persuade the crowd re. price? am guessing this stuff cost`s a shedload more than other kettle finings. Hence the commercial side of it. If it doesnt cost a shedload more, something has been done re moisture, then its probably going to be a winner.


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## matr (22/8/10)

I paid $7.95 for 100grams


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## haysie (22/8/10)

matr said:


> I paid $7.95 for 100grams



You sure you havent got your V`s n B`s mixed up? Kettle finings = Polyclar Brewbrite, Other finings/after kettle = Polyclar vt.

$7.95 100 grams would put the koppa outa business wouldnt it?


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## under (22/8/10)

Where are people getting this from???


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## MHB (22/8/10)

Ah sorry my bad, thought you might have meant that you thought the moisture absorber was part of the product rather than part of the packaging.

I would definitely make a slurry, it only takes a couple of minutes and you get much better dispersal. One of the things I noticed was that the flock is much bigger what you get with Koppafloc or Whirlflock so if you add the Brewbrite too early, you tend to shred them when your start whirlpooling.

Best result was a slurry added a well established whirlpool

Brewbrite is more expensive than just Carrageen products, not surprising as it does more.
The recommended dosage is 10-20g / 100 L (call it 15g/hL), so 3.75g in 25 L, conveniently turns out 1 well rounded teaspoon is pretty much on the money.

MHB


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## haysie (22/8/10)

MHB said:


> Ah sorry my bad, thought you might have meant that you thought the moisture absorber was part of the product rather than part of the packaging.
> 
> I would definitely make a slurry, it only takes a couple of minutes and you get much better dispersal. One of the things I noticed was that the flock is much bigger what you get with Koppafloc or Whirlflock so if you add the Brewbrite too early, you tend to shred them when your start whirlpooling.
> 
> ...




If your stocking it and giving the reviews, you could be a little less coy, and tell peeps what they want to know.......... the price? they now have a fair assumption of what it is and does.


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## MHB (22/8/10)

I will soon do just that in a Retail Thread, have been doing my own tests and getting a few locals to try it as well. So far the reports are excellent; one of the good things about AHB is that you get a lot of different people using different systems reporting their observations. That information can be very helpful when trialling a new product, hope I haven't been too heavy handed trying to solicit feedback.

MHB


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## matr (22/8/10)

haysie said:


> You sure you havent got your V`s n B`s mixed up? Kettle finings = Polyclar Brewbrite, Other finings/after kettle = Polyclar vt.
> 
> $7.95 100 grams would put the koppa outa business wouldnt it?



The 500gram container he measured mine from was labelled "Brewbrite". He called it kettle finings with PPV but said it can also be used in the fermenter. 

Pretty sure it's the same stuff this thread is about...


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## under (22/8/10)

Someone hook me up for a trial!


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## haysie (22/8/10)

matr said:


> The 500gram container he measured mine from was labelled "Brewbrite". He called it kettle finings with PPV but said it can also be used in the fermenter.
> 
> Pretty sure it's the same stuff this thread is about...



I would pay $8 for 100 gms of Brewbrite.


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## under (22/8/10)

Bulk buy!


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## matr (22/8/10)

It was $7.95 for 100grams or $40 for 500grams.... Cheaper by the 100 bag???? 

I'll only be using it in the fermenter to get rid of chill haze. Got this cos I couldn't get the vt.


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## Fourstar (22/8/10)

matr said:


> It was $7.95 for 100grams or $40 for 500grams.... Cheaper by the 100 bag????
> 
> I'll only be using it in the fermenter to get rid of chill haze. Got this cos I couldn't get the vt.




why waste your time?! add it to the boil where its supposed to be used.


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## matr (22/8/10)

Fourstar said:


> why waste your time?! add it to the boil where its supposed to be used.



Cos I brew extract and only do 3L boils. I could add it to the small boil do you think it would work ok?


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## haysie (22/8/10)

matr said:


> Cos I brew extract and only do 3L boils. I could add it to the small boil do you think it would work ok?



Wow, throw a cat among the pidgeons, I have absolutely no idea the science of it, but, if i was doing a small boil and suffering chill haze issues, I would be more inclined to use the VT model as you will be dosing the _whole batch_. Hitting up a couple of litres with the Brite seems to me a little superflous, but??????? its brewing.

edit, didnt make much sense sorry matr, i was saying the vt model used after primary is your best bet as an extract brewer!


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## matr (22/8/10)

That's what I was planning. I know it's overkill using the brewbrite but couldn't get the vt 

I'll see how it goes this week

cheers, Mat


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## under (22/8/10)

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=726


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## matr (22/8/10)

under said:


> http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=726



yeah I know craftbrewer has it but wanted it this weekend. 

This is cheaper too!!


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## haysie (22/8/10)

Lets keep the *BREWBRITE* thread on topic please.


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## under (22/8/10)

Want some.


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## hoohaaman (6/9/10)

What's the latest news in regards to Brewbrite.I have tried sourcing it from the States,but can't find it anywhere.

Do the yanks use a different name?

Cheers.


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## alkos (6/9/10)

Me too. Will pay for postage


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## dr K (30/11/10)

I am possibly out of place here as a source I am sure has been found, none the less here in Kanbeera it is available, though very expensive some 8 times the price of whirlfloc from (note I have a financial interest in Mashehematics) mashematics.net

K


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## Aus_Rider_22 (19/10/11)

So are Bribie and the other guys still just using the Brewbrite exclusively? I am thinking about picking up a jar from MHB to eliminate the use of Polyclar.


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## Bribie G (19/10/11)

I brought 4 tubs home from my recent Novocastrian excursion, 2 for me and 2 for TidalPete. I'll definitely be re ordering. Love the stuff. What I particularly like is the kettle action - heaped teaspoon mixed to a thin slurry with some hot water and added right at the end of the boil and *BAM* instant breadcrumb / cornflakes soup that settles out beautifully. 

Also I haven't been using Polyclar in secondary and get nice bright brews. I still have half a pack of CB Polyclar left over to keep as an "insurance policy" but haven't needed it yet.


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## DKS (19/10/11)

Bribie G said:


> I brought 4 tubs home from my recent Novocastrian excursion, 2 for me and 2 for TidalPete. I'll definitely be re ordering. Love the stuff. What I particularly like is the kettle action - heaped teaspoon mixed to a thin slurry with some hot water and added right at the end of the boil and *BAM* instant breadcrumb / cornflakes soup that settles out beautifully.
> 
> Also I haven't been using Polyclar in secondary and get nice bright brews. I still have half a pack of CB Polyclar left over to keep as an "insurance policy" but haven't needed it yet.



Do you know a local supplier Bribie? Keen to give it a go.
Daz


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## paxx (19/10/11)

DKS said:


> Do you know a local supplier Bribie? Keen to give it a go.
> Daz



was thinking about ordering some from here http://www.ubrew.com.au/web/showproduct.asp?prodid=299 daz if your keen


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## Bribie G (19/10/11)

MHB's your man and will courier.

edit: I didn't actually carry them around with me, Mark just popped them in a Fastway satchel (of which he has heaps) and coincided with my return home.


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## DKS (19/10/11)

paxx said:


> was thinking about ordering some from here http://www.ubrew.com.au/web/showproduct.asp?prodid=299 daz if your keen


Yep Ill PM you Paxx
Daz


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## Bada Bing Brewery (19/10/11)

I've used brewbrite in the last 5 brews - I'm converted. Good gear. No more gelatine for me .....
Cheers
BBB


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## NickB (19/10/11)

Would be keen for some too if there's a bit of a buy going on...


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## Online Brewing Supplies (19/10/11)

Bada Bing Brewery said:


> I've used brewbrite in the last 5 brews - I'm converted. Good gear. No more gelatine for me .....
> Cheers
> BBB


I should show you how to brew, you wont need any magical powder  
Nev


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## Bada Bing Brewery (19/10/11)

Gryphon Brewing said:


> I should show you how to brew, you wont need any magical powder
> Nev



I was going to say your sense of humour is back, then on second thoughts, was it ever there .....
Just stock it Nev ....
Cheers
BBB


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## Batz (19/10/11)

MHB said:


> I will soon do just that in a Retail Thread, have been doing my own tests and getting a few locals to try it as well. So far the reports are excellent; one of the good things about AHB is that you get a lot of different people using different systems reporting their observations. That information can be very helpful when trialling a new product, hope I haven't been too heavy handed trying to solicit feedback.
> 
> MHB




I have heaps of both kopperfloc and whilfloc from wink wink bulk buys but I will never us and either again. Brewbite is fantastic and obviously the latest addition to home brewing, just try it otherwise your in the dark ages with out dated practices.

My thanks to MHB for introducing me to it, I suggest if you want to give some a try contact Mark (MHB) that's where I get mine.

You can't beat a nice bright, clear beer. 

Batz


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## Online Brewing Supplies (19/10/11)

Bada Bing Brewery said:


> I was going to say your sense of humour is back, then on second thoughts, was it ever there .....
> Just stock it Nev ....
> Cheers
> BBB


Mate, just for you. You Cunny Funt.  
Nev


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## Fourstar (19/10/11)

For those in Melbourne that want it, The Brewers Den has some on hand from the request i made for Pete to stock it. the more people buying it, he will continue to keep it in stock.

A handful of us from the Melbourne brewers purchased some and i can say the difference between whirlfloc, no whirlfloc and then to brewbrite = a world a difference. I eventually gave up on the inconsistencies of whirlfloc and went commando with nothing as a kettle fining for 12 months. The difference in wort clarity out of a cube from being turbid to diamond bright sold me. :super: 

From here on in, i wouldnt have it any other way.

Cheers! :icon_cheers:


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## milob40 (20/10/11)

Batz said:


> I have heaps of both kopperfloc and whilfloc from wink wink bulk buys but I will never us and either again. Brewbite is fantastic and obviously the latest addition to home brewing, just try it otherwise your in the dark ages with out dated practices.
> 
> My thanks to MHB for introducing me to it, I suggest if you want to give some a try contact Mark (MHB) that's where I get mine.
> 
> ...


+1
thanks batz for puttin me onto it, my chill haze is long gone and beer is bright as can be.


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## Dazza88 (7/11/11)

Just tried this for the first time - the clarity of the wort from the kettle to the cube has me sold. Awesome stuff.


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## argon (14/11/11)

Craftbrewer Brewbrite


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## Aus_Rider_22 (14/11/11)

DazDog said:


> Just tried this for the first time - the clarity of the wort from the kettle to the cube has me sold. Awesome stuff.



My thoughts exactly. Haven't began fermenting the beer but the clarity and reduction in break material into the cube was noticeable. I have to say I was using a hop sock which helps minimize the extra trub in the wort. I am interested to see if the chill haze is gone without the use of polyclar after cold conditioning. 

The only thing I am a bit worried about is the powder going stale/rendered useless by the air before I use the lot of it. It's not a huge expense but it will be interesting to see how it lasts before we notice a loss in performance..


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## Dazza88 (14/11/11)

Aus_Rider_22 said:


> My thoughts exactly. Haven't began fermenting the beer but the clarity and reduction in break material into the cube was noticeable. I have to say I was using a hop sock which helps minimize the extra trub in the wort. I am interested to see if the chill haze is gone without the use of polyclar after cold conditioning.
> 
> The only thing I am a bit worried about is the powder going stale/rendered useless by the air before I use the lot of it. It's not a huge expense but it will be interesting to see how it lasts before we notice a loss in performance..



I could see the compacted trub layer before I had even began to to drain the kettle. 

Another trip to craftbrewer. . .


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## mckenry (14/11/11)

Sorry Guys,
Can I be a slack arse and not read the entire 6 pages and still ask questions? :unsure: - I'm at work so cant really anyway...

1) does this stuff replace kettle finings such as whirlfloc?
1a) If so, when is it added during the boil?
2) does it have any other benefit post fermentation? e.g. prevents chill haze?
3) do you still need your other regular clearing agents, e.g. gelatin and the other Polyclar to act against chill haze?
4) is it gods gift to brewing or just something that is 'an option'


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## Dazza88 (14/11/11)

mckenry said:


> Sorry Guys,
> Can I be a slack arse and not read the entire 6 pages and still ask questions? :unsure: - I'm at work so cant really anyway...
> 
> 1) does this stuff replace kettle finings such as whirlfloc? Yep
> ...



Otherwise, read the six pages . ..


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## Bongchitis (14/11/11)

argon said:


> Craftbrewer Brewbrite



YAY!!!!

I knew it wouldn't take him long. Good on you Ross.

$10 for Brewbrite........... another $100 to make the order worthwhile, well thats how I rationalise it to myself anyway


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## Bribie G (14/11/11)

To Mckenry, yes it's a combo of carragheenan (sp?) which is the active ingredient of whirlfloc and Irish Moss, but in a pure form, plus PVPP. The Carra whacks the hot break and flocs it into a breadcrumb soup almost instantly, depending on the wort composition some of the flakes are almost as big as flaked maize/oats, and the PVPP flocs the Polyphenols that can go on to cause chill haze. 
Mix to a slurry with boiling water in a small bowl and dump in right at the end of the boil. When it flocs, you see it floc right before your eyes, no need to keep on boiling (MHB recommends add it to the whirlpool if you do that thing).
I cover the urn and give it around 25 mins to settle out, then start to drain that lovely clear wort into the cube. 

Keep it in a ziplock in a cold fridge and it keeps for months and months. I bought half a kilo about 18 months ago - I picked it up at Chappo's brewday so that's how long ago  - I gave the last bit I had in the ziplock to DazDog a week or so ago, and that's the one he's referring to in his post - so it was still on top form obviously.


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## Paul H (14/11/11)

Does this present a problem for those who have a pick up tube in the centre of the kettle? What about transfer to the cube & then into the fermenter??

Cheers

Paul


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## Florian (14/11/11)

No need to use boiling water to make the slurry, cold water works great without clumping. 
I also noticed that CB says on the website that it's not required to prepare a slurry. Haven't tried that myself yet, though.


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## mckenry (14/11/11)

Bribie G said:


> To Mckenry, yes it's a combo of carragheenan (sp?) which is the active ingredient of whirlfloc and Irish Moss, but in a pure form, plus PVPP. The Carra whacks the hot break and flocs it into a breadcrumb soup almost instantly, depending on the wort composition some of the flakes are almost as big as flaked maize/oats, and the PVPP flocs the Polyphenols that can go on to cause chill haze.
> Mix to a slurry with boiling water in a small bowl and dump in right at the end of the boil. When it flocs, you see it floc right before your eyes, no need to keep on boiling (MHB recommends add it to the whirlpool if you do that thing).
> I cover the urn and give it around 25 mins to settle out, then start to drain that lovely clear wort into the cube.
> 
> Keep it in a ziplock in a cold fridge and it keeps for months and months. I bought half a kilo about 18 months ago - I picked it up at Chappo's brewday so that's how long ago  - I gave the last bit I had in the ziplock to DazDog a week or so ago, and that's the one he's referring to in his post - so it was still on top form obviously.



cheers BribieG,
So does that mean you negate the need for Polyclar VT prior to kegging? Just use the gelatin to drop out the yeast?


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## Bribie G (14/11/11)

Paul H said:


> Does this present a problem for those who have a pick up tube in the centre of the kettle? What about transfer to the cube & then into the fermenter??
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Paul



Not as long as the tube is above the trub layer, which would be generally the case you'd think. 
I haven't been game to just sprinkle the stuff on top, wouldn't hurt to try I suppose - just sticking with what works.


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## Bribie G (14/11/11)

I generally use gelatine in a cold conditioning cube, not straight into the keg. Gelatine settles yeast, Polyclar settles cold break and they work on opposite electrostatic charges anyway. On a couple of occasions when I had to had to had to have a crystal clear comp lager (I don't filter) then I did use Polyclar as an insurance policy, probably didn't do anything, but generally I don't get chill haze any more using BB.


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## Paul H (14/11/11)

Bribie G said:


> Not as long as the tube is above the trub layer, which would be generally the case you'd think.
> I haven't been game to just sprinkle the stuff on top, wouldn't hurt to try I suppose - just sticking with what works.



Michael,
Given I rack to cube immediately after flameout would I be able to add to the cube?

Cheers

Paul


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## beers (6/12/11)

Paul H said:


> Michael,
> Given I rack to cube immediately after flameout would I be able to add to the cube?
> 
> Cheers
> ...



Sure. But would you prefer the break in the cube, or left behind in the kettle?


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## JonnyAnchovy (6/12/11)

Florian said:


> No need to use boiling water to make the slurry, cold water works great without clumping.
> I also noticed that CB says on the website that it's not required to prepare a slurry. Haven't tried that myself yet, though.



It's a fair bit different when adding it to a 14HL boil, but I always make up a slurry - the time(s) I didn't resulted it the polyclar turning into a big hard, insolluable lump.

Gets my vote, though. great product, albeit very exxy!


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## Paul H (8/12/11)

Holy ****, added 1 teaspoon to some cold water & to the boil 10 minutes out. I drained most of the kettle using my hopscreen (with pickup in the centre of the kettle) to find 1 inch of break compacted nicely on the bottom of the kettle. Will be interested to see how the beer comes up.

Cheers

Paul


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## CosmicBertie (9/12/11)

I just got some from Ross. I'm going to brew tonight and see how this goes and hopefully have a 'Eureka!' moment.

Fast delivery too, thanks Ross


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## Spork (9/12/11)

Mine just arrived (brewed a batch yesterday - didn't expect such fast delivery, thanks Anthony). Have done some reading but still not sure as getting some conflicting stuff:
This is a keetle fining, so replaces my koppaflok yes? Where I'm unsure - can I also use it to drop the yeast in secondary / cc? Or do I continue to use gelatine as before?
Cheers.


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## Ross (9/12/11)

gelatine as before - it has no effect on yeast.

cheers Ross


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## Spork (9/12/11)

Thankyou.


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## Phoney (9/12/11)

Do you guys use it in conjunction or in place of whirfloc?


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## Spork (22/12/11)

Holy shit!
Funny stuff isn't it? Very, very fine powder. Blows around in slightest breeze, and difficult to reclose the bag as the superfine powder gets into the ziplock thingo.
Didn't rehydrate it, just measured into container with the yeast nutrient and chucked it all in @ 10 mins. Needed a bit of a stir as it clumped up (Brew balls?) but it soon disolved. Still has a lot of convection going on (90c) but already can see the difference to the wort between this and the koppafloc I have been using.
I've never had such bright wort 10 mins after the boil!


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## MHB (22/12/11)

Thats why I ended up using a screw top jar, its also hydroscopic, so you want to make sure to keep it well closed between uses.
I get the best results by mixing in cold water (fridge water is best), making sure you break up any lumps and allowing to stand for 10 minutes or so before adding it to the whirlpool.
The clumps of flock that form are so big that I found I was breaking them up by stirring after adding the BrewBright.
MHB


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## Fents (22/12/11)

whats the ideal storage conditions MHB? Fridge or room temp?


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## Spork (22/12/11)

Thanks for the tips MHB.
Will pinch one of Mrs Spork's jars for storage.
Will try rehydrating too next time, and adding to whirlpool instead of to boil.

Edit:
Just whirlpooled, and it has all broken up into fine suspended particles.
Can I add more BB at this stage, or just wait and it will settle out?


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## seamad (22/12/11)

Noticed a touch of chill haze using this on one beer, none on the other couple using this. Have used whirfloc and pooyclar before with good results. Brewbrite is fantastic floccer but do others use polyclar as well?


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## Ross (22/12/11)

The manufacturers state that polycar can still be used in the final beer, which would suggest to me it's a step you may well need to take.

cheers Ross


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## seamad (22/12/11)

Cheers ross, helps to read instructions


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## MHB (22/12/11)

Fents said:


> whats the ideal storage conditions MHB? Fridge or room temp?


Cool and low humidity, I wouldnt recommend putting it in the fridge and one of those little desiccant sachets is a god idea.



Spork said:


> Thanks for the tips MHB.
> Will pinch one of Mrs Spork's jars for storage.
> Will try rehydrating too next time, and adding to whirlpool instead of to boil.
> 
> ...


Just wait it will still settle, just find it is faster when added to the whirlpool.

If you are still experiencing chill haze, you could try upping your dose a bit, or if you really want crystal clear beer try some of the 70/30 version as a post cold conditioning treatment.
Its a mixture of PVPP and Silica Xerogel, the PVPP binds polyphenols and the Silica binds high molecular weight proteins so it tackles both sides of the haze equation.
MHB


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## Spork (23/12/11)

Where can I get the 30/70 stuff MHB?
Post cold conditioning. So - between CC and kegging / bottling?
Exactly how / when is this added. 

The cube had lots of jellyfish - I've never seen so many.
I racked it into fermenter (from top of brew fridge so it gets aerated and left the break that had settled in the bottom behind, but several of the floaty jellyfish things went through.
IIRC jellyfish OK, cottage cheese bad? There was lots pf the cottage cheese in the bottom of the urn after it settled following whirlpool, but not in the cube. So, all good I'm hoping.


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## MarkBastard (23/12/11)

So would most people suggest that this is all you need apart from when doing very pale beers you want to be bright?


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## wobbly (23/12/11)

Can you add the Brewbrite (Polyclar) to the whirl pool after you have chilled with an immersion chiller or does it need to be added to the hot wort and hence the whirl pool prior using a plate chiller or No Chilling??


Cheers

Wobbly


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## MHB (23/12/11)

Spork said:


> Where can I get the 30/70 stuff MHB?
> Post cold conditioning. So - between CC and kegging / bottling?
> Exactly how / when is this added.
> 
> ...


Not touching the first question
The info sheets at the end might help with the rest.
M




Mark^Bastard said:


> So would most people suggest that this is all you need apart from when doing very pale beers you want to be bright?


I use BrewBright in all my brews as a replacement for any/all other finings and generally find it to be more than adequate.
Have only used the Polyclar 70/30 to test the products performance and in a couple of brews where I wanted stunning clarity (showing off) I posted a picture earlier in this thread post # 40.
Normally I couldnt be bothered, but its nice to know there are options if you want to exercise them.




wobbly said:


> Can you add the Brewbrite (Polyclar) to the whirl pool after you have chilled with an immersion chiller or does it need to be added to the hot wort and hence the whirl pool prior using a plate chiller or No Chilling??
> 
> 
> Cheers
> ...


One of the two ingredients in BrewBright is k-Carrageenan, selectively extracted from seaweed (Irish Moss and others) in a highly refined form called Kappa-Carrageenan and is the most effective kettle fining of the many types of Carrageenan.
It is insoluble under 60oC so yes it needs to be added to the wort above this temperature.
Getting the most out of is going to be a matter of trial for each system, if you are going to use an immersion chiller it might be a good idea to try adding the BrewBright to the whirlpool, allow the rotation to stop, then put the immersion chiller in, that shouldnt disturb the cone too much.
BrewBright View attachment 51218

Polyclar 70/30View attachment 51217

MHB


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## Camo1234 (28/12/11)

hhhmmmmm... I got all excited yesterday and added 10g at 10 mins instead of 4g of Brewbrite..... Anyone have an idea of how this will effect the brew?


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## Parks (23/1/12)

I have just filtered my first brew using this and wow - crystal clear out of the fermenter with the most solid trub I've ever seen. The filter looked like I could put it straight back in the cupboard after use.

No idea if it was all to do with the Brew Brite but I haven't seen it this good before, and the beer was the clearest beer I've ever made (it was Argon's LFPA recipe).

We'll see the difference in time with different types of beer but on first impressions I'm pretty stoked.


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## Dazza88 (23/1/12)

Camo1234 said:


> hhhmmmmm... I got all excited yesterday and added 10g at 10 mins instead of 4g of Brewbrite..... Anyone have an idea of how this will effect the brew?


Better bigger and compact trub layer, like you dropped a bag of bread crumbs into your kettle.


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## [email protected] (12/2/12)

Just used this for the first time, crystal clear wort into my cube.
Produced the most perfect, solid and compact trub cone i have ever seen.
Stayed intact all the way to the last drop, it sat there like a sand castle for a while, i only had 500ml left in the kettle and after letting that settle out in a jug, only 100ml of that was wort = not even worth batting an eyelid over. Knock out volume was 12L

Will be interesting to see how the beer turns out, planning on using no other finnings but running through the filter before kegging.


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## Phoney (12/2/12)

I've used this a few times now and I havent found it to be any better than whirfloc.  

I add a heaped teaspoon into a cup of boiling hot wort, stir it round to dissolve it, & chuck it back in at 10 mins to go...

Am I doing something wrong?


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## barls (12/2/12)

just a question what dosage are people using.


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## Batz (12/2/12)

barls said:


> just a question what dosage are people using.




1 teaspoon per 25lt


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## twizt1d (12/2/12)

this stuff works really well, i think ill add it to the whirlpool next time though since i seemed to break the bigger floc's up by adding first then whirlpooling
will definately stick with it though.. its good gear


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## [email protected] (12/2/12)

I am using at rate of 4g / 23L - mixed in some water at the start of the boil, added with 10min to go.

Have always used whirfloc previously at the recommended rate on the packet, it works but the brewbrite just seemed to leave the wort a lot clearer and i got more of that clear wort because the cone was so solid. 
Whirfloc cone was always more loose and easily disturbed, maybe if i played around with how much i used it could be better? who knows 

All i know is today i was really surprised by this stuff straight out of the box.


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## altstart (13/2/12)

Storage is not an issue if kept in an airtight container. I am useing the same batch I obtained in March 2010 and it is still as good as the day it arrived. I use 40 grams into 80 Litres of wort 15 mins before flame out. When fermentation has ceased I crash chill to 2 degrees and add Gelatine to the fermenter leave for 2 days drain the gelatine through the dump valve at the bottom of my conical prior to kegging. I have not filtered since I obtained this stuff and all of my beers are crystal clear.
Cheers Altstart


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