# Yeast nutrient



## Logan_01 (26/10/15)

I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to use bakers yeast, added to the boil, as a nutrient for the beer yeast during fermentation? 
I have an old can of bakers yeast in the fridge from when I was baking bread awhile ago. Im planning my first ag larger and wonder if I should add some to the boil to help during fermentation. 

Anyway what do you think? How much would I need for a 55L batch?


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## antiphile (26/10/15)

Hi Logan

It certainly won't hurt to add 1 teaspoon at 10 mins prior to flameout. Though it won't necessarily provide all the trace elements for "perfect" nutrition for the pitched yeast.

Only a few weeks ago I bought a 900 g (2 lb) bottle of Wyeast Nutrient powder online for approx $20 (and at the suggested rate it will last for my and my heir's natural life). I'd rather know than guess whether I'm doing the right thing.

Cheers


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## Danscraftbeer (26/10/15)

I wouldn't. On the flavour addition being possibly bad but then again it might be good to some.
I don't believe nutrient additions are too necessary for beer other than some water additions for All Grain. , and then again there is a can of worms on the subject.
I have done many all grain brews with just Melbourne water with no nutrient additions at all. Against adding nutrients. I'm still trying really hard to detect any difference for or against.


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## SBOB (26/10/15)

antiphile said:


> Only a few weeks ago I bought a 900 g (2 lb) bottle of Wyeast Nutrient powder online for approx $20


got a link?


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## Logan_01 (26/10/15)

I might give it try this time round. I wouldnt normally add nuttients either but beersmith tells me I will be underpitching by about 200b cells even with a 2.5L starter on a stir plate, with 3 packets of S23. 
My main concern was that some of the yeast will survive and spoil the batch.


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## Rocker1986 (26/10/15)

The bakers yeast won't survive a boil so you're safe there.

So, you have two options I guess. Use some as a nutrient of sorts, or make a bigger starter if you are able to.

I have some old packets of brewing yeast in the fridge that will be next to useless now so I will probably use these as a nutrient in boils at some point if I ever remember to do it.


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## Barge (26/10/15)

Logan_01 said:


> My main concern was that some of the yeast will survive and spoil the batch.


Not a chance


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## MHB (27/10/15)

For the small cost I think its a good investment, Australian malts are notoriously deficient in Zinc (caused by being an old land mass that has been rained on for a couple of million years).
You can probably get away with not using it, but like a seat belt, it doesn't do any good until you really need it them its too late to think about it.



SBOB said:


> got a link?


I think he got his same place I did mine (Brewman) I don't know where you are located, I'm sure any decent local HBS or any of the other decent online stores will have nutrient, just don't buy Di-Ammonium Phosphate (unless you know what its for and want it) its a bit like using super phosphate, a pure chemical that just supplies N and P, more like using good compost, a proper nutrient will have that and a bunch of other stuff to.
Mark


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## JDW81 (27/10/15)

You can get yeast nutrient from craft brewer, grain and grape, and the brew shop to name a few. Worth the $5-7 outlay IMHO as it is a more complete source of nutrition for you yeast.

JD


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## BrutusB (27/10/15)

I've just started using the Bintani branded yeast nutrient. I noticed the below on my standard house recipes;
1. Fermentation started a lot faster
2. Fermentation was more vigorous - krausen was 50% higher
3. Hit FG in 2-3 days faster

I've been using a very small amount in starters and 5 grams per 25l in the brew kettle. Definitely recommend using yeast nutrient No affiliation to Bintani.


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## TheWiggman (27/10/15)

Without question I have seen a difference in ferments since I started using yeast nutrient. At the extreme outlay of $5.50 for 42g I quickly realised it's going to be a good few months/years before I need to buy more. It's a few cents per brew and completely worth it.



Danscraftbeer said:


> I wouldn't. On the flavour addition being possibly bad but then again it might be good to some.
> I don't believe nutrient additions are too necessary for beer other than some water additions for All Grain. , and then again there is a can of worms on the subject.
> I have done many all grain brews with just Melbourne water with no nutrient additions at all. Against adding nutrients. I'm still trying really hard to detect any difference for or against.


I really don't understand what you're talking about. It benefits fermentation, which isn't limited to all grain and it is not a "water addition". Of course nutrients aren't necessary, just like O2, salt adjustments, step mashing, pH monitoring and fermentation control aren't necessary. If however you want to make the best beer you can then it's one small (proven) thing that will improve multiple aspects of your beer. Why be against doing something that will work towards better beer?


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## antiphile (27/10/15)

SBOB said:


> got a link?


Hi sbob

I've got a massive apology to make; I could have sworn it was only about $20, but when I went to get the link I saw it was $50. Sorry mate. I got it from G&G, and the yeast nutrients (of a few different types and sizes are listed last on page 2):
Wyeast Liquid Yeasts and Nutrients

Note, however, when I saw the quantities required, I realised I made a massive overbuy. From memory (and you've found out now that's a very dangerous thing to rely on), it's half a teaspoon in the boil @10 mins for a 50 litre batch. The 1.5 oz size will probably keep you going for a year!

All the best, Phil


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## Bribie G (27/10/15)

I occasionally use yeast nutrient with a brew that's high in adjuncts such as rice. I always have YN in stock as I use it for Aldi ciders. Hmmm... Aldi day tomorrow....

Good all purpose one is this New Zealand Wine Nutrient available from most LHBS.


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## technobabble66 (27/10/15)

Hey bribieG, is that the same formula as the beer versions. Ie: do the alter the nutrient ratios to adjust for grapes and grains having different amounts of minerals etc in them?

And how much nutrient do you stick into your ciders? 
I'm about to do a golden circle batch with wlp 775 (my first ever, aside from a quick 2L tester which tastes fantastic - because of the 775 I assume).


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