# First Brew, Freaking Out!



## Smoop (7/8/12)

Hi guys,
Brewing my first ever homebrew beer. I am brewing a Coopers Pale Ale. The brew has been down since the 1st august and it is now the 7th August .
I have a closed brewing kit.
The effective temperature of my yeast is 18 - 32 degrees celcius.
Recommended temperature for this brew kit is 21 - 27 degrees celcius.
My brew kit has been at 16 degrees at night and 18 degress during the day.
Called my local homebrew shop and he didn't seem to think there would be a problem.
My air lock stopped bubbling this morning and I took my first reading of 1014.
Once I replaced my lid my airlock started bubbling again.
The instructions for this brew state bottling after 6 days at 21 degrees or 4 days at 27 degrees. As this is my first brew you can see why I am freaking out, 16 - 18 degrees is something not in my instructions and I am at a loss.
I am also worried about removing the lid of my brew as every book I have read states I can contaminate my beer and **** it.
Should I be freaking out ?
How many readings and at what intervals should I be taking them ?
I don't want to bottle the brew too early and have bottles exploding everywhere.
Can you leave your brew too long ?
Is there anything else I should know ?
Im so excited and shitting my pants at the same time. THIS IS AWESOME WOOO!!!


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## tricache (7/8/12)

One thing I have learnt with brewing it is actually pretty hard to screw things up haha

Low & Slow is pretty well the way to go with fermenting. I usually check my gravities about 3 days apart.


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## Smoop (7/8/12)

tricache said:


> One thing I have learnt with brewing it is actually pretty hard to screw things up haha
> 
> Low & Slow is pretty well the way to go with fermenting. I usually check my gravities about 3 days apart.



Thank you for the reply.

I checked my gravity by opening my container and dropping my sanitised hydrometer inside and spinning it. Is this method ok ? Should I be filling the test tube from the tap and testing ? If I test from the tap and test tube should I put the beer back into the brew or is that thrown out ?


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## Yob (7/8/12)

Smoop said:


> Hi guys,
> Brewing my first ever homebrew beer. I am brewing a Coopers Pale Ale. The brew has been down since the 1st august and it is now the 7th August .
> I have a closed brewing kit.
> The effective temperature of my yeast is 18 - 32 degrees celcius.
> ...



Yob


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## Yob (7/8/12)

Smoop said:


> If I test from the tap and test tube should I put the beer back into the brew or is that thrown out ?



drink it


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## woodwormm (7/8/12)

Much less than 16 degrees and you'd most likely stall the packet yeast (assuming you used the one under the can lid?) but around 16-18 will be fine if it keeps bubbling along nice and slow. You'll get a better tasting beer by keeping it at the lower range of the yeast capabilities.

i'd check it every couple days, but let it go for around 12 days in total and the last couple days if you can bump the temp just a little (ie 20 degrees) would help a bit too. 

but definitely make sure you get 3 consistent readings (hopefully around 1012 or lower) before bottling. Also make sure you measure your priming sugar accurately and treat your babies nicely for a few more weeks in the bottle... if you can wait that long! 

Kit beers are made for the average Joe, but you're on AHB so you already outrank average.. next time get a decent yeast from the LHBS Safale US05 or Nottingham are my favourites... cleaner, better tasting than kit yeast and these respond much better at lower temps, they get fruity over 20 degrees.


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## tricache (7/8/12)

Test Tube filled from the tap is best, less chance of infection from the air itself.

And no don't put the beer back in, again, a chance for infection. I use it as a taste and aroma sample


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## mosto (7/8/12)

Hi Smoop,

You've got nothing to worry about. 18 degrees is pretty much spot on for the beer you're brewing (despite what the instructions say). I've only been brewing not quite a year myself, but one of the best things I've learnt is when you think your brew is ready to bottle, leave it another week. That way you can be sure fermentation has finished, and the yeast will clean up after themselves and this makes a big difference to the quality of your beer IMO. I leave my ales for at least two weeks, and lagers for about four weeks before bottling. At 1014, I'd be inclined to think the fermentation may not have finished anyway, as the Coopers kit yeast will usually get down to about 1008.


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## lookey (7/8/12)

Smoop said:


> Thank you for the reply.
> 
> I checked my gravity by opening my container and dropping my sanitised hydrometer inside and spinning it. Is this method ok ? Should I be filling the test tube from the tap and testing ? If I test from the tap and test tube should I put the beer back into the brew or is that thrown out ?



Fill up the tube from the tap. Dont put the sample back in. Drink it!


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## Yob (7/8/12)

also, download this SPREADSHEET and have a play with it.

A great tool for those starting out, will let you get your head around what ingredients add to a brew.

Yob


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## Smoop (7/8/12)

iamozziyob said:


> also, download this SPREADSHEET and have a play with it.
> 
> A great tool for those starting out, will let you get your head around what ingredients add to a brew.
> 
> Yob



I already downloaded the spreadsheet and to be honest I have no idea what the hell I am looking at. hahaha.


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## Smoop (7/8/12)

OK,
So what I have gathered from you guys.

16 - 18 degress is good. Leave it alone, it will be fine. After around 12 days take a reading each day for 3 days from the tap.After the reading drink it  If the readings are all the same on the three consecutive days. bottle my brew.


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## lookey (7/8/12)

Smoop said:


> OK,
> So what I have gathered from you guys.
> 
> 16 - 18 degress is good. Leave it alone, it will be fine. After around 12 days take a reading each day for 3 days from the tap.After the reading drink it  If the readings are all the same on the three consecutive days. bottle my brew.



i generally leave all my brews in the primary fermenter for 3 weeks. Even if it reaches the FG after the first week. I like to give the yeasties time to clean up after themselves.

That seems to do the trick for me. No point in rushing it


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## hsb (7/8/12)

Definitely just ignore the airlock, it is indicative of nothing. Sounds like you got lucky with temperature - normally the major cause of first beer - wow this tastes bad - reaction. That and forgetting to add the yeast/boiling the wort and yeast/pitching four packs of yeast in a panic etc..

If you can manage to ferment it for 2 weeks without faffing around with it every 2 hours you've done better than most. Patience and temperature will surely turn those sugars into alcohol, then those stable hydrometer readings and you're onto to trying to make it fizzy. Just make sure your final reading is in the range of what you should be seeing, 1014 sounds like it could shift a little lower but not much.

Congratulations!! 3 weeks sounds better but I'll wager you don't make it!!

Never float the hydrometer in the beer again! Use the tube it came in! Definitely drink those samples, there's alcohol in there!

So long as you sanitise things first and don't let the cat drink direct from the fermenter/leave it all alone unless you have a specific need to check it, she'll be right!

If a bunch of weird monks with wooden equipment and no knowledge the earth is round can make beer, I rate your chances high!


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## Smoop (7/8/12)

lookey said:


> i generally leave all my brews in the primary fermenter for 3 weeks. Even if it reaches the FG after the first week. I like to give the yeasties time to clean up after themselves.
> 
> That seems to do the trick for me. No point in rushing it



This will give me a much clearer beer I am guessing ?


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## hsb (7/8/12)

Clearer _tasting_ but also a little brighter as the yeast will fall to the bottom of the fermenter.
'Cold crashing' when everything is totally finished (ie; chilling the fermenter down to 5C or lower) will clear it more but if you're not setup for that I shouldn't worry. And since this is a kit beer, without added hops?, it should be way clear enough anyway.

Just give the yeast time to convert the sugars and to clear up after themselves as they eat their own waste products. Don't rush it. Be prepared to give it a good week once it has reached final gravity for this to happen. It'll only help make a nicer beer.


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## Smoop (7/8/12)

Thanks, I really don't mind waiting if it will give me a better beer


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## Smoop (7/8/12)

Also, if I am going to be leaving my beers for up to 3 weeks it looks like I am going to have to buy another barrel so I can brew one ever 1 and a half weeks. Haahahahaha WHEEEEEEE!!!!


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## tricache (7/8/12)

Start *bulk priming* and you can pretty much fill any bottle (2LT Coke Bottles  ) with beer


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## woodwormm (7/8/12)

Smoop said:


> Also, if I am going to be leaving my beers for up to 3 weeks it looks like I am going to have to buy another barrel so I can brew one ever 1 and a half weeks. Haahahahaha WHEEEEEEE!!!!



that's the way, just pick up a cheap barrel/cube from the big green shed or an army disposals store


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## Johndec (7/8/12)

Smoop, for what it's worth, this is what I've learnt in 4 months of brewing:

1. Don't panic, it's really hard to screw up a kit beer. You've accidently done this brew a favour by keeping the temps low. I wouldn't go any lower though as kit yeast goes to sleep below 16 degrees. 

2. Toss the lid and airlock and use glad wrap instead. There is plenty of info here about using cling wrap. All the airlock does is confuse new brewers.

3. I haven't got to the stage of brewing in a temperature controlled fridge but I have got a heater pad and an stc-1000 thermostat (plenty of info here about them). I suggest you do the same. I've got mine set to 18 degrees and it's set and forget... When summer rolls around and I don't need the heater pad, I might look at grabbing an old fridge to continue brewing at a constant temperature. It's good for your beer and good for your sanity 

4. You will quickly graduate from kit and kilo (your current brew) to kit and bits (substituting the kilo of dextrose/brew booster with malt extract and maybe chucking in some extra hops) to doing fresh wort kits (that's were I'm at) to all grain brewing. 

5. For you first few brews you will be checking the gravity every other day. You will soon realise that all that does is waste good beer  especially as you have to pour off a bit out of the tap and chuck it (gunk accumulates in the neck of the tap and will throw off your reading) before you take a sample. I leave my brews in the fermenter for 2 weeks and only take 2 readings, 1 when I first put it down to check OG and one on bottling day to check FG so I can work out the alcohol content. I've never had a brew that wasn't at an acceptable FG after 2 weeks. 

6. Even the worst kit beer is better than VB :icon_cheers:


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## QldKev (7/8/12)

Smoop said:


> Also, if I am going to be leaving my beers for up to 3 weeks it looks like I am going to have to buy another barrel so I can brew one ever 1 and a half weeks. Haahahahaha WHEEEEEEE!!!!



search for Bunnings fermentor, including tap <$20


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## thylacine (7/8/12)

from menu at top of homepage:

"Articles" then
"New to Brewing" ie. http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...o&showcat=2


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## Smoop (7/8/12)

You guys are awesome. Thank you all for your information. You have definitely put my mind at ease and saved me from bottling a brew too early and given me information on making my first brew a lot better than it would have


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## soundawake (7/8/12)

Here's another tip- don't expect your first brew to taste really awesome. It will be drinkable, but remember you can't expect to pour in a can of goop and some sugar and water and expect it to taste exactly like the commercial offering. 

So relax, it's only your first of many brews to come! If you happen to make some that you don't like, never fear- you can make more!

My other recommendation is- despite the instructions saying you can drink it after 2 weeks, it will likely not taste very good and will definitely not be carbonated properly yet. 

If you can, and especially in this weather, wait a month before cracking one. The wait will be worth it. 

My last tip- go to one of the forum sponsors and buy some Star San no rinse santiser. It lasts FOREVER and is the easiest way of sanitising your bottles. And after you pour out a beer, rinse the bottle out with water straight away, then all it will need is a spray of Star San next time you're ready to bottle and you're done! Easy!


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## pmastello (7/8/12)

I found what got me up to speed on all things brewing was a book - How to Brew by John Palmer. 
I have read that book front to back at least 10 times and still sit down with it to brush up on my brewing skills.
you can get it from good homebrew stores, amazon http://www.amazon.com/How-Brew-Everything-...rds=how+to+brew , or the first edition is available free on the net http://www.howtobrew.com/

This is hands-down the best brewing resource out there. Read it, love it, know it back to front. Your future beer will thankyou


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## Jay Cee (7/8/12)

Smoop said:


> I have a closed brewing kit.



What does this mean, if you dont' mind me asking.


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## Johndec (7/8/12)

Jay Cee said:


> What does this mean, if you dont' mind me asking.



I'd assume a bog stock LHBS fermenter


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## Jay Cee (7/8/12)

as opposed to an open brewing kit, such as a yorkshire square :lol: 






Was curious, because someone mentioned to me a style of coopers fermenter that sounded like it had no airlock or screw on lid, just an outer sleeve that pushed upwards when co2 was produced. Sounded gimmicky. But yea, smoop, as mentioned before, bunnings sell perfect fermenting barrels for around 15 bucks. Get a couple, so you can run a few brews at different stages, and never run out.


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## GuyQLD (7/8/12)

Jay Cee said:


> as opposed to an open brewing kit, such as a yorkshire square :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The new coopers kits in Big W use a "collar" where it just lifts up once the pressure gets high enough instead of mucking around with an airlock. Couple of my mates use them - but I don't think they'd be very good past primary fermentation. I know one friend actually didn't get to his brew for a week or so after it "fell" and he got an infection out of it. 

You'd be better off with a trip to the big green shed and some glad wrap than those things...


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## Johndec (7/8/12)

GuyQLD said:


> The new coopers kits in Big W use a "collar" where it just lifts up once the pressure gets high enough instead of mucking around with an airlock. Couple of my mates use them - but I don't think they'd be very good past primary fermentation. I know one friend actually didn't get to his brew for a week or so after it "fell" and he got an infection out of it.
> 
> You'd be better off with a trip to the big green shed and some glad wrap than those things...



Going OT here but thought I'd throw this in. I've got one of those new Coopers fermenters, it's called the "DIY" fermenter. Got it off a mate unused for a carton of VB (unwanted present). I used it a few times and it works but has both really clever and really dumb design features.

Really clever: Clear rather than opaque plastic so you can clearly see what your brew is doing. Click to detach tap that easily comes apart for thorough cleaning. No bubbling airlock to confuse new brewers. It works on positive pressure to keep carbon dioxide in and oxygen out, much like glad wrap.

Really dumb: The Krausen collar. As if a coopers kit brew would ever need the extra height of a removable collar to stop the thing overflowing. Never used it, never needed it, just one more thing to clean. The tap is too high in the fermenter. You have to start tipping the fermenter to get the beer out a lot earlier than a traditional LHBS fermenter hence stirring up the trub earlier than necessary. I found that I got one less longneck out of the DIY compared to a standard fermenter due to all the crap being stirred up. Also it has little legs molded into the plastic that might make it nice and stable but makes a heating pad all but useless...


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## kymba (7/8/12)

Jay Cee said:


>


looks like Niles has made my bed..toodlepip!


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## krisisdog (7/8/12)

QldKev said:


> search for Bunnings fermentor, including tap <$20



This. I bought a Coopers kit from Big W mainly because of the accessory's in it.
I then bought a fridge, a temp controller and 2 of the square 30L water containers from bunnings.
I strongly urge you to spend the $50-100 on a fridge (ebay, gumtree, papers) that you can fit 2+ fermenters in as well as the $15 on a temp controller. 
With a fridge you can brew your ale's at a good temp then once theyre done you can cold condition them for a week or two, all in one unit, without having to move them or rack to secondary.
A fridge will also let you brew lagers, and brew them all through summer.


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## Smoop (8/8/12)

Jay Cee said:


> What does this mean, if you dont' mind me asking.




There are two types of brew barrels I believe. One witch is sealed and has a bubbler and the other is open with just a cloth draped over it. I believe it was in a book a read and thought it was important to add as much info in my post as possible.


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## Smoop (8/8/12)

krisisdog said:


> This. I bought a Coopers kit from Big W mainly because of the accessory's in it.
> I then bought a fridge, a temp controller and 2 of the square 30L water containers from bunnings.
> I strongly urge you to spend the $50-100 on a fridge (ebay, gumtree, papers) that you can fit 2+ fermenters in as well as the $15 on a temp controller.
> With a fridge you can brew your ale's at a good temp then once theyre done you can cold condition them for a week or two, all in one unit, without having to move them or rack to secondary.
> A fridge will also let you brew lagers, and brew them all through summer.




I already have a temperature controller that I bought from the brew shop for a style of cooking called Sous Vide so all I need now is a fridge


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## krisisdog (8/8/12)

Get one asap lol, you wont look back!


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## Lord Raja Goomba I (8/8/12)

QldKev said:


> search for Bunnings fermentor, including tap <$20



25L $15 + $2 for tap
30L $20

I got one the other day - and posted the pic and I'm as happy as they come with it - needed it for a 20L Weissbier using 3638 (no 3068 at the time).

Most of my beers are 25L or so, so I get some excellent head room in it for the non-agressive yeasts.


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## B1n0ry (8/8/12)

Johndec said:


> Going OT here but thought I'd throw this in. I've got one of those new Coopers fermenters, it's called the "DIY" fermenter. Got it off a mate unused for a carton of VB (unwanted present). I used it a few times and it works but has both really clever and really dumb design features.
> 
> Really clever: Clear rather than opaque plastic so you can clearly see what your brew is doing. Click to detach tap that easily comes apart for thorough cleaning. No bubbling airlock to confuse new brewers. It works on positive pressure to keep carbon dioxide in and oxygen out, much like glad wrap.
> 
> Really dumb: The Krausen collar. As if a coopers kit brew would ever need the extra height of a removable collar to stop the thing overflowing. Never used it, never needed it, just one more thing to clean. The tap is too high in the fermenter. You have to start tipping the fermenter to get the beer out a lot earlier than a traditional LHBS fermenter hence stirring up the trub earlier than necessary. I found that I got one less longneck out of the DIY compared to a standard fermenter due to all the crap being stirred up. Also it has little legs molded into the plastic that might make it nice and stable but makes a heating pad all but useless...



I have one of these kits, and i agree with this assessment 100%. Using as a primary is no problem at all. Using it for racking, where fermentation has slowed or stopped, might be a bit risky because it relies on the positive pressure created by the CO2 production.


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## Smoop (12/8/12)

OK, I woke up this morning and had a look in at my brew just to make sure my baby was still there  and I found something interesting. there has been a small layer of sediment on the bottom and I knew this was normal but this morning I woke up to a 2 - 3 inch layer of cloudy stuff above the sediment. 
What could this be ? 
Is this normal ? 
Is this the reason you guys have told me to leave my brew longer to get a clearer beer ?
This is exciting stuff and I need to know.


I hope to can see it here.


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## Yob (12/8/12)

what yeast did you use? Could just be break material etc... 

dont fret, if it's edible the yeast willl get to it, if it isnt it'll drop out

Yob


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## warra48 (12/8/12)

Smoop said:


> OK, I woke up this morning and had a look in at my brew just to make sure my baby was still there  and I found something interesting. there has been a small layer of sediment on the bottom and I knew this was normal but this morning I woke up to a 2 - 3 inch layer of cloudy stuff above the sediment.
> What could this be ?
> Is this normal ?
> Is this the reason you guys have told me to leave my brew longer to get a clearer beer ?
> ...



Looks perfectly normal to me.

And learn not to be in a hurry. Fermentation is best left to do it's own thing. I never even look at mine in under 2 weeks (well, apart from dropping dry hops in).
I bottle mine only after 2 to 3 weeks in primary.

I know my fermentations take off, because I use enough yeast for the job (liquid yeast starter), add yeast nutrient at the end of the boil, and ensure I aerate properly before I whack the fermenter into the fridge and dial in the TempMate. I only take a final gravity hydro reading when I'm ready to bottle, and just for record keeping.


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## Smoop (12/8/12)

I know there is nothing to worry about, I am interested to know what this cloudy layer is and what is causing it. I just like know stuff.


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## thylacine (12/8/12)

Smoop said:


> I know there is nothing to worry about, I am interested to know what this cloudy layer is and what is causing it. I just like know stuff.




http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...o&showcat=2


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## adryargument (12/8/12)

The cloudy stuff is just yeast settling on the rounded parts of the fermenter. Not all of it ends up on the very bottom.


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## Smoop (14/8/12)

adryargument said:


> The cloudy stuff is just yeast settling on the rounded parts of the fermenter. Not all of it ends up on the very bottom.




Thanks mate, straight answer and to the point. ( My local brew shop owner knew exactly what I was talking about and gave me some finings to put in a few days before bottling to settle it down into the sediment layer.

I also found out what yeast I used with this kit also, it was a Brew Cellar Premium Ale Yeast.

Took a reading today and it is down from my original 1014 down to 1012 (More out of curiosity than for any other reason as I want to let it stay in the brewer for 3 weeks as has been suggested by many people in my thread) 
It has been in the brewer for 13 days now and on everyones advice I drank my test sample. 
I found it very bitter. Will this bitterness mellow out after its is primed and bottled and stored ? 
Is an ale supposed to be very bitter ?
Or is this a good indication of what the final product will taste like ?

Thanks for the help guys


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## GuyQLD (14/8/12)

Shouldn't be overly bitter, since I'm assuming your first brew has just been a standard kit + kilo (sugar). Could just be a little green and some time in the bottle will do it wonders. 

I don't believe that kit is all that bitter and it sounds like you've done everything else right up till this point. I'd get it bottled and see what it's like in a couple of weeks.


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## Smoop (17/8/12)

Finings ? Mix packet in hot water and pour over the top gently ? Is this it ? Do I stir my brew at all like I seen in this video ?



I cannot seem to find anything that "explains" what to do.

Im guessing the guy in the video is not doing the right thing as he hasnt even mixed the finings with water to dissolve them.


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## FuzzyDropbear (17/8/12)

I've only investigated the use of Gelatine as it's a little cheaper than using packets of finings but I assume that the principals are the same.

I was going to use the method below when I brewed by first batch of DSGA, but I was in a hurry to bottle (first extract brew so got a bit excited, plust had limited time available thanks to work  ). 

Mix gelatine in water (boiled and cooled to ~70deg) or beer from fermenter (room temp), stir in gelatine and wait till dissolved, add to fermenter and crash chill for a couple of days (optional) before bottling.

However, it isn't necessary to add a fining agent, I haven't used it as yet and have had crystal clear beers, when they're left for a little while to condition and clear on their own.


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## Smoop (17/8/12)

your recipe says ----> add to fermenter.

That is all I have been able to find. I know that for the finings to work I have to add them, but the thing that everyone seems to take for granted is that everyone is an expert brewer. 

Do I just plop it straight in ?
Do I try and spread it around the top ?
Do I put it in and mix the shit out of my brew ?
Do I not mix it ?
If I mix it will it pull more stuff to the bottom ?
If I don't mix it is it going to just go straight to the bottom and only grab some particles with it ?


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## tricache (17/8/12)

I have never stirred in my fining but I have stirred in my bulk priming sugars (obviously very very carefully so not to stir up any muck from the bottom)


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## FuzzyDropbear (17/8/12)

tricache said:


> I have never stirred in my fining but I have stirred in my bulk priming sugars (obviously very very carefully so not to stir up any muck from the bottom)



So you just dumped your finings in the fermenter? I would have thought that a gentle stir would've been required to ensure that the agent was distributed throughout the fermenter to pickup as much as it could.



Smoop said:


> your recipe says ----> add to fermenter.
> 
> That is all I have been able to find. I know that for the finings to work I have to add them, but the thing that everyone seems to take for granted is that everyone is an expert brewer.
> ...



Nope, I'm not an expert brewer so why would I expect anyone else to be? Sorry if my last post came out that way, I'm only a noob who's only done 10 batches or so.
You don't want to stir the stuffing out of your brew now, doing so could oxidise your beer and cause funky flavours to come through. If you stir, just do it gently. The way I was intending to do it, was just to stir the very top of the fermenter slowly, just enough to get some movement. 
As with everything regarding brewing, there's 101 ways to do anything. I just did a quick search and some people say just dump it in, others say stir gently.


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## tricache (17/8/12)

I pour it in slowly in a circular motion (if that makes sense)


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## FuzzyDropbear (17/8/12)

Yep perfect sense, thanks mate. I'll give that a whirl next extract brew I do (my kit brews don't seem to need it). Cheers.


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## Smoop (17/8/12)

FuzzyDropbear - I was not directing it at you but in the information I found on the internet 

Thanks for the info guys. What I have gathered is either, pour it in a circular motion or/and pour it in and slowly stir it not enough to not upset the bottom.



Poured in a circular motion it is.


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## Smoop (19/8/12)

OK 20 days in the brewer, close enough to 3 weeks 

So I will be bottling tommorrow and understand I have to clean and sanitise my bottles and have some buckets ready for this. 

I have carbonations drops instead of sugar for priming.

Do I put the drops in the bottle before filling or after ?
Do I have to keep the beers steady when capped or shake em up , tip them up once ?

A full run down on bottling would be good if anyone has the time. I have already read about sanitising my caps while bottling, it is just the transfer and priming I would like info if you could thank you


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## DU99 (19/8/12)

i tend add drop's in before bottling,once all the bottles have been filled then i cap..i only give mix a small shake is when i use sugar.


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## warra48 (19/8/12)

Which sanitiser are you using? 

No matter, I can't see the need for buckets to sanitise your bottles. My bottles are always cleaned immediately after I empty them, and stored in a clean dustfree dedicated cupboard. So, all they need is the quick sanitising process.

All I do is to mix up a litre or two of StarSan, and pour a little into each bottle. Give each bottle a shake to distribute the sanitiser over the entire inner surface, and leave for a couple of minutes. Empty the bottles of sanitiser. Wait another couple of minutes and empty out any remaining sanitiser. What then stays behind is fine, because StarSan is a no-rinse sanitiser. It is then good to reuse.
Then I prime (I use caster sugar). Carbonation drops will work OK. Put them in before bottling.

Fill the bottles, and place a cap loosely on each bottle as it's filled. I only use the capper once they are all filled. I actually notice there is some dissolved CO coming out of solution filling the headspace of the bottles, as the caps bubble up and down a bit between filling the bottles and using the capper.

If you are using carbonation drops, there is no point in shaking or inverting your bottles. The drops will dissolve over time, and the yeast will find the sugar to do its carbonation work without further help from you.


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## fletcher (20/8/12)

very keen to hear how your first brew turns out mate...i'm new myself from about 3 days ago and literally everything you'd thought about and asked are all going through my head too! haha

keep us updated if you can mate, i'll learn alongside you 

i'm fletcher, a newbie also. this forum looks amazing for new people. i've already got a few little tips for my second batch now before i've started.


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## Smoop (20/8/12)

fletcher said:


> very keen to hear how your first brew turns out mate...i'm new myself from about 3 days ago and literally everything you'd thought about and asked are all going through my head too! haha
> 
> keep us updated if you can mate, i'll learn alongside you
> 
> i'm fletcher, a newbie also. this forum looks amazing for new people. i've already got a few little tips for my second batch now before i've started.




haha, No worries Fletcher. I am about to bottle my brew today or tommorrow and have just started watching some you tube videos on how to bottle and even how to cap, even though capping is as easy as pulling a lever, finding out when its too late that you did something that simple wrong would crush me haha.

So far so good, I took a sample yesterday and the overly powerful bitter taste I said was there has now all but gone. And the beer tastes good. If bottling and storing go well I think I might have nailed my first brew. Anyways Will keep you all posted.

And thankyou again for everyone who gave me all the helpful tips.

Paul.


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## FuzzyDropbear (20/8/12)

Hey Paul, you can't really go wrong with bottling, as long as you've washed and sanitised your bottles. Capping is pretty straight forward, if you're using one of the bench top cappers the only thing you have to set is the height of the capper, as long as it crimps the cap on she'll be all good.

Not sure if this is what others do, but after I sanitise the caps, I rinse (I'm still yet to move to a no rinse sanitiser) and leave them in hot water, it makes the rubber a bit softer and should create a better seal. Again, not sure if it actually does anything, but it sounds good to me  

I use sugar instead of carbonation drops, I used them for my first brew, but the carbonation turned out a bit variable because the drops were different sizes (due to breaking up in transport I suppose). But it was still a good brew.

If it tastes good now and especially when it's warm, it's going to taste great once it's got a few weeks on it in the bottle and it's cold!!


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## Smoop (20/8/12)

FuzzyDropbear said:


> Hey Paul, you can't really go wrong with bottling, as long as you've washed and sanitised your bottles. Capping is pretty straight forward, if you're using one of the bench top cappers the only thing you have to set is the height of the capper, as long as it crimps the cap on she'll be all good.
> 
> Not sure if this is what others do, but after I sanitise the caps, I rinse (I'm still yet to move to a no rinse sanitiser) and leave them in hot water, it makes the rubber a bit softer and should create a better seal. Again, not sure if it actually does anything, but it sounds good to me
> 
> ...



Thanks Fuzzy.

Oh one last question, Can I use my bench top capper on threaded bottles ? I have half a dozen 750ml bottles I saved from last week which are twist tops. Is there any difference to crimping on a normal flip top bottle and a twist top ?

A part from that last question I think I am good to go.


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## homebrewkid (20/8/12)

Smoop said:


> Thanks Fuzzy.
> 
> Oh one last question, Can I use my bench top capper on threaded bottles ? I have half a dozen 750ml bottles I saved from last week which are twist tops. Is there any difference to crimping on a normal flip top bottle and a twist top ?
> 
> A part from that last question I think I am good to go.




you wont have any problems doing that ive been using them bottles for 10 years

Cheers: HBK


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## FuzzyDropbear (20/8/12)

I don't think the twist top are as good as the flip top bottles. I think I read somewhere that the seal may not be as good (stands to reason I suppose). But I found a stash of them under the missus' house and used them when I was low on bottles and I didn't have any problems with sealing etc.

I just capped them the same as the flip tops.

*edit: Beaten by HBK


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## tricache (20/8/12)

As all of us have learnt over the years...you can pretty much do anything and not have a drama...still beer none the less 

I haven't even bothered getting into glass bottles yet, still using PET bottles (all shapes and sizes) and I think after I save for a bit I will be straight into kegging


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## Smoop (20/8/12)

tricache said:


> As all of us have learnt over the years...you can pretty much do anything and not have a drama...still beer none the less
> 
> I haven't even bothered getting into glass bottles yet, still using PET bottles (all shapes and sizes) and I think after I save for a bit I will be straight into kegging




I have heard of a few people who brew into recycled plastic 1.25 and 2l bottles. Is there any difference in taste at all ? Or is it exactly the same as brewing into glass ?


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## tricache (20/8/12)

Smoop said:


> I have heard of a few people who brew into recycled plastic 1.25 and 2l bottles. Is there any difference in taste at all ? Or is it exactly the same as brewing into glass ?



I haven't noticed an off taste at all and my latest batch is in a mix of 390mL, 500mL, 740mL, 1.25L & 2L bottles since I already had beer in my normal 740mL bottles.

I think its more forgiving for beginners since they can expand slightly if you are early bottling (will still explode if way too early) and I notice its good to see if they are carbing well since the bottles go nice and hard


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## Smoop (22/8/12)

Thanks for everything Everyone 

I waited the 3 weeks
Just finished bottling
Beer was crystal clear which was very surprising.

Washing, sanitizing and filling my bottles and capping them was a bigger job than I expected. Once I get my tree and sanitizing attachment this should be a lot easier.


I could not have done it without you guys. Thanks.


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## tricache (23/8/12)

YAY!  

Congrats and welcome to the addictive world of homebrewing


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## warra48 (23/8/12)

Doesn't it make you proud to stand back and look at all those bottles, thinking ''I made this myself''?

Just one more hint, it's what I do. Use a permanent marker on the bottle cap to mark it with your batch number. If you don't, you'll forget what the beers are, once you are into future batches.


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## Smoop (23/8/12)

warra48 said:


> Doesn't it make you proud to stand back and look at all those bottles, thinking ''I made this myself''?
> 
> Just one more hint, it's what I do. Use a permanent marker on the bottle cap to mark it with your batch number. If you don't, you'll forget what the beers are, once you are into future batches.



Excuse my french but I am PROUD AS ****! 

Thanks Warra48 I will definitely do this.


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## fletcher (23/8/12)

haha good on you mate! keep us updated (especially me your fellow newbie) about when you're doing stuff, as well as taste differences etc!

well done 

i've now had my batch 1 in the main fermenter for close to 6 days - how long was yours in primary fermentation for? 2 or 3 weeks? and then once you bottled them, are you keeping them at the same room temp for 10 days before putting them somewhere cooler? (that's what i read to do...hopefully that's right) haha


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