# $25 grain mill motor from bread maker



## Truman42

My latest project was to uprade my mill motor. I was curently using a wiper motor and whilst it did the job it took me nearly 20 mins to crush my grain at a slow 60 rpm.

So I purchased a bread making machine from gum tree for $20 and ripped the motor and pulley out.

Had a guard made up to cover the motor as its windings are all visible and didnt want to risk dropping something down on them. Added a switch and made some modifications to my existing mounting board to allow the pulley to fit. I had to get my mill shaft machined down to match the pulley but was able to get this done at work FOC.

Final RPM is around 160 rpm geared down from 1100 rpm from the motor so I have plenty of torque.

So a cheap ebay or gumtree motor seems to work quite well as a mill motor and you get both pulleys and the belt.


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## Online Brewing Supplies

Nice neat job !
Nev


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## Mardoo

Legend! Great thinking. Thanks for sharing it.

Do you remember what brand the maker was?


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## Ducatiboy stu

160rpm is prob spot on


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## Truman42

Mardoo said:


> Legend! Great thinking. Thanks for sharing it.
> 
> Do you remember what brand the maker was?


It was a Tiffany brand, but any would do as they are all the same with similar motor speeds and pulley ratios. My dad did the same with a Panasonic he found on hard rubbish. The motors get warm in the bread makers so getting warm milling for 5 minutes isnt a problem.
Just dont block the front or back fans so you get good airlfow.


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## Truman42

And dont get zapped by the starter cap like I did...twice..LOL


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## Ducatiboy stu

Is it just a standard run-of-the-mill domestic kitchen bread maker.


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## Ducatiboy stu

Truman said:


> And dont get zapped by the starter cap like I did...twice..LOL


They bite HARD those things.


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## sp0rk

Hmm, might have to hit the op shops looking for bread makers


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## mxd

looks good where did you get your pulleys from ?


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## Batz

Truman said:


> My latest project was to uprade my mill motor. I was curently using a wiper motor and whilst it did the job it took me nearly 20 mins to crush my grain at a slow 60 rpm.
> 
> So I purchased a bread making machine from gum tree for $20 and ripped the motor and pulley out.
> 
> Had a guard made up to cover the motor as its windings are all visible and didnt want to risk dropping something down on them. Added a switch and made some modifications to my existing mounting board to allow the pulley to fit. I had to get my mill shaft machined down to match the pulley but was able to get this done at work FOC.
> Final RPM is around 160 rpm geared down from 1100 rpm from the motor so I have plenty of torque.
> So a cheap ebay or gumtree motor seems to work quite well as a mill motor and you get both pulleys and the belt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_2253.JPG
> 
> 
> 
> IMG_2255.JPG



Good thinking 99


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## Truman42

Yes its just your standard bread maker. Lots of them second hand on ebay and gumtree because people get sick of them. And the best thing is the pulleys come with it as the motor is to the side of the mixer and connects to the larger pulley by timex belt to turn the mixer. My dad used the whole motor assembly and frame from the bread maker to mount his.

And if the motor is turning the wrong way you just swap a wire over on the starter cap. But I didnt need to.


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## Ducatiboy stu

I am just about to re build my mill stand so that looks like a great option.


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## macca05

Hey Truman, 
Awesome job with this build. It inspired me to go on the hunt for a breadmaker which I got today. Have pulled the motor and cap out but I'm a little confused with the wires. My motor has 3 wires. Red, blue and yellow. Red and blue go from motor to cap and then onto a plug. Yellow goes from motor to plug. that's as far as I've got. Can you help out pls with a wiring diagram. If u don't want to post on here you can pm me if you like. I wired my control box easily but this confuses me. 
Cheers
Macca


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## Truman42

macca05 said:


> Hey Truman,
> Awesome job with this build. It inspired me to go on the hunt for a breadmaker which I got today. Have pulled the motor and cap out but I'm a little confused with the wires. My motor has 3 wires. Red, blue and yellow. Red and blue go from motor to cap and then onto a plug. Yellow goes from motor to plug. that's as far as I've got. Can you help out pls with a wiring diagram. If u don't want to post on here you can pm me if you like. I wired my control box easily but this confuses me.
> Cheers
> Macca


Does yours look like the photo below? If so yellow is active and blue is nuetral. If your motor spins the wrong way swap the dark blue nuetral wire over to the otherside of the cap. (So it connects in with the red wire.)

Also if your going to use the front screw holes of the motor for your mounting bracket make sure your screws arent too long and end up touching the motor windings. I used a bamboo skewer to measure the depth first then cut my screws down with my wire crimping tool. (It has the holes as the top for cutting machine screws.)

Hope this helps.


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## Maheel

dont forget to earth the whole thing.... run the green to the motor casing

your playing with 240 so be very safe....


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## Truman42

Maheel said:


> dont forget to earth the whole thing.... run the green to the motor casing
> 
> your playing with 240 so be very safe....


Yes definitely, Thats what i did.


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## Truman42

Here is a short video of the mill in action

https://flic.kr/p/ogbEC8


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## contrarian

Hmmm, just bought a new mill recently and as fun as the hand crank is have been thinking about adding a motor but the cost has put me off. This looks like a perfect solution!

Now to find a bread maker!


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## Truman42

contrarian said:


> Hmmm, just bought a new mill recently and as fun as the hand crank is have been thinking about adding a motor but the cost has put me off. This looks like a perfect solution!
> 
> Now to find a bread maker!


Gumtree, Ebay, Local trader. hard rubbish, neighbours cupboard. And dont pay over $20 for it.

One thing I have found is that if I stop my mill mid crush and then start it again the motor doesnt have enough grunt to start again without having to give the pulley a flick. (But then again you shouldnt need to do this anyway.)
But you can load up your hopper and start the mill and it will fire up no probems.


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## bullsneck

Truman, I think you need to write up an article for the BBC newsletter. Looks awesome!


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## DU99

Looks good..even with a danger sign


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## Truman42

booker_h said:


> Truman, I think you need to write up an article for the BBC newsletter. Looks awesome!


I am...LOL


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## macca05

I'm sure I wrote a reply on here saying thank you very much Truman but it does not seem to be showing anymore. Will test it out tonight and build an enclosure for the motor too


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## Eagleburger

I read this thread last night, went on gumtree and there was a tiffany brand around the corner for $10. I couldnt help myself and when and bought it.


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## macca05

Finally built a housing for the motor and components last night. Motor working great. Now I just need to get a metal worker to make an adapter for my mill and I'll be in business. Thanks Truman.


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## Maheel

now i have to decide do i pull apart my spare bread maker coffee roaster for the motor ...
but then i could retire the ozito to just drilling duties h34r:

heaps of home coffee roaster use them for the base of their roasters (me included)

i even use my old capper as a heat gun mount


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## contrarian

Told me wife about this and she picked me up a bread maker from the op shop yesterday so this will be a project for the weekend. Any tips would be appreciated as although I am not a complete electronic clutz And have wired a couple of stc1000s, I haven't attempted anything like this before.


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## Maheel

take a few photos of the wiring to the motor before removing stuff so you can put it back together.
you will need to keep the capacitor starter bit to get it running

they are pretty simple once you get past the control panel.

Truman's motor mount pics are excellent with what he has done i reckon = simple and effective


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## contrarian

Thanks mate, good advice about the photos will make sure I take plenty throughout the job. 

Will be sure to keep the starter cap and try to avoid zapping myself. 

Will post photos in this thread. Hard to imagine how people did anything before the internet and smart phones!


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## contrarian

Started pulling the breadmaker apart tonight. Looks like the capacitor is attached to the circuit board. Do I need to remove it and solder some connections to it or is there a way to leave it on the board and get it going?


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## Crouch

Interesting thread ... was looking for something to power my mill, this looks like the perfect project. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers


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## Truman42

contrarian said:


> Started pulling the breadmaker apart tonight. Looks like the capacitor is attached to the circuit board. Do I need to remove it and solder some connections to it or is there a way to leave it on the board and get it going?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1405079292.523692.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1405079327.710282.jpg


How many wires are coming from your motor 2 or 3?

You could possibly leave the cap on the board if you could de solder and remove the other components and check the wiring to make sure that everything is correct. But if the cap has 2 decent feet that you can solder some wires too I would pull it off the board.
Option 2 is to just buy a new 3uf cap, there under $10.00.


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## Truman42

Here is a simple wiring diagram. (DISCLAIMER:- If you dont know what your doing DONT TOUCH IT. Get a sparky)


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## contrarian

Thanks Truman, I have a mate who's a sparky so will have it checked by a professional to make sure it is all safe. No point mucking about with 240V! Will try to salvage the capacitor and if not possible will be off to the shops. Am also wondering if it would be possible to repurpose a chain cover from a bike to cover the belt and wheel.


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## Truman42

contrarian said:


> Am also wondering if it would be possible to repurpose a chain cover from a bike to cover the belt and wheel.


Don't see why not, good idea. But unless you have young kiddies I wouldnt bother.


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## contrarian

Two kids under 3 with curious personalities, it's certainly worth looking into!


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## BungBrew

Sorry to revive a topic which has been quiet for a few weeks, but I scored a $10 sunbeam bread maker at the local salvos and pulled it apart last night. The motor looks different to the one pictured at the start of the tread but the pullies look the same. The only control board I could see only had a tiny capacitor on it (1/3 the size of a box of matches) and the motor had two wires and a ground to the metal casing of the motor.

Is the capacitor really needed? ie can I just hook the motor straight up to 240v?


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## macca05

From what I understandfrom reading alittle about these motors is they need the cap to actually start the motor spinning. Supposedly you dont need it but you need to hand crank the motor manually to get it spinning. Not really a good idea though. Motor wont last as long and you could injure yourself.
Macca


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## Ducatiboy stu

A cap start motor..

The capacitor gives the initial current to kick it off


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## Truman42

BungBrew said:


> Sorry to revive a topic which has been quiet for a few weeks, but I scored a $10 sunbeam bread maker at the local salvos and pulled it apart last night. The motor looks different to the one pictured at the start of the tread but the pullies look the same. The only control board I could see only had a tiny capacitor on it (1/3 the size of a box of matches) and the motor had two wires and a ground to the metal casing of the motor.
> 
> Is the capacitor really needed? ie can I just hook the motor straight up to 240v?


Your motor could be a 12volt motor. Some of them do have 12 volt motors. So dont go hooking up 240v to it. Post some pictures of the motor and the circuit board.

You can still use a 12volt motor you just have to keep the circuit board intact.


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## Truman42

contrarian said:


> Thanks Truman, I have a mate who's a sparky so will have it checked by a professional to make sure it is all safe. No point mucking about with 240V! Will try to salvage the capacitor and if not possible will be off to the shops. Am also wondering if it would be possible to repurpose a chain cover from a bike to cover the belt and wheel.


How is yours coming along Contrarian?


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## BungBrew

I'll check it out tonight and look for any marking on it.

The motor itself is about the size of a coke can.

I don't recall seeing any transformers etc to supply 12V DC.

I'll post pics tonight.

Thanks guys.


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## BungBrew




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## BungBrew




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## BungBrew




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## BungBrew




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## BungBrew




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## BungBrew

Hmm 220V DC .. Guess I might have to look for another bread maker?


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## Truman42

You can still use that motor. But you would need to use the bridge rectifier on the circuit board that converts the AC current to DC.

Unless you know what your doing or know someone who does then you might be better off just getting another bread maker.


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## BungBrew

So I could use something like this?

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZR1324


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## Ducatiboy stu

A straight out bridge rectifier will give you approx 340v DC,

AC is measured in RMS ( Root Mean Square ), but a rectified voltage is measured at Peak-to-Peak ( or Zero-to-Peak) Value wich is higher than the RMS value

If you like maths then there is some fun stuff here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square


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## macca05

I have mine hooked up and running but unfortunately it is not powerful enough to crush the grain. Even when I run it firstand then add a cup to it. I am going to resize the pulley to allow the mill to spin faster and see if that improves it


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## Ducatiboy stu

You dont want to go to fast or you will shred the grain


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## contrarian

Truman said:


> How is yours coming along Contrarian?


Haven't done much more, due to the munchkins shed time is at a premium. Will hopefully get a chance on the weekend to move things along.


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## Truman42

BungBrew said:


> ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1406625861.692066.jpg


Those 4 upright diodes on the right hand side (With grey bands around the top) are your bridge rectifier. Other than the wires that come off the motor what other wires connect to the board and where do they go? I assume the red and blue are your active and nuetral rom your supply and white and black go to your motor. But where do those grey wires go? To the control panel?

If you could bypass that so the motor runs constantly without needing the control buttons then you could just mount the circuit board inside a jiffy box. Can you take some more pics from the top showing where all the wires connect on the board and I will show my dad. its beyond my level of expertise but he did the exact same thing.


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## Truman42

Just to add you dont need a sarter capacitor with a DC motor. Post some pics and I will send them to dad.


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## Crouch

Been following this thread for a week or so ... picked up my bread maker and have jumped in.

Can't get the 3 bolts holding the motor to the frame off so I might just incorporate the frame into the design, it makes a good stand:




How would guys recommend I fix the wheel to the mill? I'm thinking to drill a small hold and then slowly and carefully file it out in the shape of the spindle ...


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## BungBrew

OK so there are two board, the main board is the one that have the 240V hooked up to it and then the smaller board with the motor connections.

Here is a better photo of the smaller board, it has 5 connectors, earth/GND, MOT - / MOT + & MOT1 / MOT2.

I really wish I had taken a photo while pulling it apart!

I am pretty sure the motor connections went to the GND / MOT - & MOT + connectors.

With the MOT1 and MOT2 connectors I can see one was going to the main board (AC MOT), the other was hooked up to the NEUTRAL 240V.

Tracing the tracks I can see:

MOT - goes to the anodes of D2 & D5 of two diodes.
MOT + goes to the cathodes of the other two diodes D1 & D3.
MOT1 goes to one side (left) of the 275V DAIN film capacitor? and the little transformer looking toroid
MOT2 goes to the other side (right) of the 275V DAIN film capacitor? and the little transformer looking toroid

I do have a multimeter .. do you think I could (safely) have a bash at connecting ACTIVE to MOT1, NEUTRAL to MOT2 and have the EARTH going to the board connector and the motor casing?

If I have 220VDC at the MOT - and MOT + I guess I'm good to go, but would rather open the floor to the idea first!!


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## Ducatiboy stu

The Multimeter will be your friend.


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## Truman42

I think it should work. The main board would just send power to the motors board as you turn the controls on etc, but Ive sent the info to my dad to verify it for sure.

EDIT:- Here is his response.... So yes you can.

_"All you need to do is:- connect the motor to the + and - terminals, then earth the motor to the earth terminal. Then connect AC Mains to Mot1 and Mot2 (either way) . don't forget to insulate the board all round. Put it in a plastic bottle etc."_


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## pscarazza79

Hey all, though i would post some picks of my motorised grain mill, havent quiet finished the top hopper section but the idea is to drill a hole on top of the table so a cut water bottle will feed the lower hopper on top of the mill then into a bucket. For those that want to connect the pulley to the mill i went to www.smallparts.com.au (not affiliated) and they have a coupling which goes from 8mm pulley shaft to 10mm mill shaft with a couple of grub screws.


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## BungBrew

Thanks Truman (and your dad)!!!

Will give it a go tonight and buy a jiffy box from Jaycar.


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## Truman42

pats said:


> Hey all, though i would post some picks of my motorised grain mill, havent quiet finished the top hopper section but the idea is to drill a hole on top of the table so a cut water bottle will feed the lower hopper on top of the mill then into a bucket. For those that want to connect the pulley to the mill i went to www.smallparts.com.au (not affiliated) and they have a coupling which goes from 8mm pulley shaft to 10mm mill shaft with a couple of grub screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2014-07-31 08.53.18.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2014-07-31 08.40.27.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2014-07-31 08.53.08.jpg


Looks awesome Pats. And that coupler will come in handy for some too.


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## pscarazza79

Thanks truman, yeah i tried to find something that didnt need maching due to budget, the company i got it from are great because they have alot of small machine parts that are normaly hard to find. If anyone wants the part number let me know.


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## Crouch

pats said:


> Thanks truman, yeah i tried to find something that didnt need maching due to budget, the company i got it from are great because they have alot of small machine parts that are normaly hard to find. If anyone wants the part number let me know.


I'd love to know the part number ... I've been wondering how to attach the wheel to the mill spindle

Edit: oh yeah! That setup looks amazing, very inspiring!

Cheers


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## BungBrew

Well good news, hooked up 240V and the multimeter .. 220VDC

Hooked up the motor and it hummed along beautifully!

Now to figure out how to mount it all 

Thanks Truman for your help (and your dad's)

No more handheld drill crushes for me :beerbang:


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## pscarazza79

Crouch said:


> I'd love to know the part number ... I've been wondering how to attach the wheel to the mill spindle


Part no is cp-080-100-25-025-r-3g 
description - coupling - rigid - set screw
8mm x 10mm


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## contrarian

Well had a bit of a chance to play with this on the weekend. Wired everything up and could get the motor to run but only with a bit of manual help to get things going, couldn't get the capacitor to kick it off. Rather than muck about I am waiting to get some qualified eyes to have a look at it for me.

Fortunately the brew for yesterday was a mild so the hand crank wasn't too laborious!


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## 5150

Hey Guys,

I just managed to score myself a bread maker, pulled it apart this morning and the motor says it 1/28 HP which equates to FA or 26.6 Watts. The gearing is 17/140, about 1:8.2.

I'm just wondering if this is a complete waste of time due to a serious lack of power. If other people have found motors which have more power can you let me know the brand and model of bread makers. I just don't want to tearing down working bread makers for no reason.

Thanks in advance.


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## mofox1

5150 said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I just managed to score myself a bread maker, pulled it apart this morning and the motor says it 1/28 HP which equates to FA or 26.6 Watts. The gearing is 17/140, about 1:8.2.
> 
> I'm just wondering if this is a complete waste of time due to a serious lack of power. If other people have found motors which have more power can you let me know the brand and model of bread makers. I just don't want to tearing down working bread makers for no reason.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


What was the make/model of the one you have? Might help to list those that just don't have it in them too...


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## 5150

The one that I have is Called a "Breadman". Made by Maxim.


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## contrarian

I pulled apart a breadman but couldn't tell you if it works or not as I still haven't been able to wire it up so it runs. The start capacitor was on the circuit board so I took it off but haven't had a chance to fiddle with the wiring. 

From other peoples experience I assume there are other bread makers that are much easier to convert than the breadman and given the cost it might be easier to get another one. 

Not sure the power would be an issue, they all knead dough which would take a bit of torque so should be fine, especially if your electronic skills are better than mine!


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## 5150

Thanks for your reply contrarian, Yeah, I've got the same issue with the cap being soldered to the board. I haven't removed it yet and still have all the wiring together, so I could still possibly use this motor and mount the bread control panel on my mill bench and just set it to Dough. I was more concerned with the power output, but as you said, they all have to knead dough.

My other option is there is a Sunbeam Quantum Smartbake BM7800 locally that I could probably get for about $20. Has anyone else used one of these?

Cheers.


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## Mardoo

Just pulled apart a bread machine from hard rubbish, a Sunbeam BM3500. It has the separate capacitor, and a case that does not yield to non-destructive means. Now to work out which wires are who...


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## ohgoodthinking99

I scored a free breadmaker locally that was going to the tip due only to the cooking container's coating peeling off.
I'm excited! I'm going to try my luck using the knurled ends of a weight lifting barbell as the textured rollers.


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## sp0rk

ohgoodthinking99 said:


> I scored a free breadmaker locally that was going to the tip due only to the cooking container's coating peeling off.
> I'm excited! I'm going to try my luck using the knurled ends of a weight lifting barbell as the textured rollers.


I'd be wary whether the bar is chromed or stainless/mild steel, would pay to check


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## ohgoodthinking99

sp0rk said:


> I'd be wary whether the bar is chromed or stainless/mild steel, would pay to check


Good point, thanks. I don't have the bar yet, so I'll be shopping around the OpShops, Cash Converters, tip shop and keeping that in mind.


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## Grainer

Wifey just gave me permission to rip apart the bread maker..so I have to go through this thread and build me one..


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## Grainer

Grainer said:


> Wifey just gave me permission to rip apart the bread maker..so I have to go through this thread and build me one..


Doh..she renegged and gave me the mixer.. but it is all exposed capacitors and shaft is different..maybe back to the drawing board..or hard rubbish is out if I get really lucky??


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## Grainer

Doh..nothing in hard rubbish around the neighbourhood.. Found one bread maker with the lot but either I wired it wrong or it don't work  On a positive note found an electric golf buggy and it works  just missing the battery


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## Mardoo

That golf buggy motor'd be a hell of a mill motor.


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## Grainer

maybe I can use it for both LOL.. its got 2 motors


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## Grainer

Mardoo said:


> That golf buggy motor'd be a hell of a mill motor.


Found a sunbeam on the way home after beerfest same as urs ...now gotta work out all the wiring.. same as u


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## Mardoo

Once you sit down and have a look at it, it's not actually that bad. As far as I can tell the motor had no speed controller so the signaling unit functioned as an on/off switch in regards to the motor. Definitely want to find a sparky mate to have a look at it.


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## Grainer

Motor is up and running now just have to work out the couplings

woohooo


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## Grainer

Just need to couplers...seems they rate all on backorder..and have to build a mount

cheers


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## The Village Idiot

Is this one suitable??


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## Grainer

Open it up and have a look I am sure it is..looks similar to the one i found


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## mattlea266

Hey fellas
Got this half setup but motor going the wrong way.
Have tried switching the wiring on the starter cap around and no change. 



Not sure where to go with it now. Any help would be appreciated.
Will be pissed if I cant change the direction.

Thanks


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## blotto

mattyl said:


> Hey fellas
> Got this half setup but motor going the wrong way.
> Have tried switching the wiring on the starter cap around and no change.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20141002_190011.jpg
> Not sure where to go with it now. Any help would be appreciated.
> Will be pissed if I cant change the direction.
> 
> Thanks


Look at post #15 in this thread from Truman I think this will sort your problem.


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## mattlea266

So I got everything going with a motor that is the same as post #15. I think it is from a breville breadmaker. 
Unfortunately it did not have enough power to crack the grain. Tried turning it on with grain in the hopper which resulted in nothing happening. 
Took grain out, started her up again and trickled grain in. This worked briefly but as soon as grain numbers intensified she stopped again. 
I run a pretty wide gap setting. It usually just cracks the grain. I have dismantled for now as I need the mill tomorrow. 
Looks like im back to the electric drill.
Any input from anyone who got this motor to work.


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## Eagleburger

Have a look at the circuit board too. A lot of components can be used for a arduino shield (mathos controller).


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## sgtpinky

Semi-related, has anyone used a washing machine motor before? I have a spare one I salvaged. It is capacitor start as well. It seems to run on the fast side, but I think it should have enough power (I can't stop it by hand).


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## zappa

sgtpinky said:


> Semi-related, has anyone used a washing machine motor before? I have a spare one I salvaged. It is capacitor start as well. It seems to run on the fast side, but I think it should have enough power (I can't stop it by hand).


Have thought about this myself. An old Malley's Whirlpool motor with 12-16uF start cap and the large drive pulley off the top of the gearbox. Not sure that they'd be that easy to find these days, but i reckon it would be a perfect setup.


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## mattlea266

mattyl said:


> So I got everything going with a motor that is the same as post #15. I think it is from a breville breadmaker.
> Unfortunately it did not have enough power to crack the grain. Tried turning it on with grain in the hopper which resulted in nothing happening.
> Took grain out, started her up again and trickled grain in. This worked briefly but as soon as grain numbers intensified she stopped again.
> I run a pretty wide gap setting. It usually just cracks the grain. I have dismantled for now as I need the mill tomorrow.
> Looks like im back to the electric drill.
> Any input from anyone who got this motor to work.



Anyone.
Dont wont people to go down the same path and realise after putting it all together that it doesnt work.


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## MartinOC

sgtpinky said:


> Semi-related, has anyone used a washing machine motor before? I have a spare one I salvaged. It is capacitor start as well. It seems to run on the fast side, but I think it should have enough power (I can't stop it by hand).


'Been using an old washing machine motor to run my Corona mill for over 20 years. Not the best (ie. uniform crush - it tends to shred), but absolutely NO problems with grunt. Definitely runs fast & needs to be geared-down.


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## Grainer

Got the motor all sorted but having trouble chasing a coupler ..any suggestions..everywhere seems outta stock


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## contrarian

What sized coupler do you need? I have a 12mm to 1/2 inch that I purchased in error if that would help.


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## Camo6

Grainer said:


> Got the motor all sorted but having trouble chasing a coupler ..any suggestions..everywhere seems outta stock


I got mine from ebay but it took a few weeks. Have you tried Jaycar? Otherwise I think Spiesy(?) mentioned a place in Melbourne that put one together for him. Can't remember which thread that was mentioned in though.


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## Grainer

8mm & 10mm.. ended up ordering from china


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## smoo

mattyl said:


> Anyone.
> Dont wont people to go down the same path and realise after putting it all together that it doesnt work.


Can you put up a pic of your setup and wiring?


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## Truman42

mattyl said:


> So I got everything going with a motor that is the same as post #15. I think it is from a breville breadmaker.
> Unfortunately it did not have enough power to crack the grain. Tried turning it on with grain in the hopper which resulted in nothing happening.
> Took grain out, started her up again and trickled grain in. This worked briefly but as soon as grain numbers intensified she stopped again.
> I run a pretty wide gap setting. It usually just cracks the grain. I have dismantled for now as I need the mill tomorrow.
> Looks like im back to the electric drill.
> Any input from anyone who got this motor to work.


These motors should be about the same in all bread makers. other than some are AC and some DC but that doesnt matter.

If they can turn a lump of sticky dough they should run a grain mill no problems. Although I have found that if I stop the motor mid crush and try to start it again i have to spin the pulley by hand to get it started again. Not that I stop mid crush generally anyway so its usually not a problem. However i think it might be a clue to yours. You say you have a wide gap and Im wondering if grain is falling down into the the gap and causing the motor to stall. Try it on a smaller gap setting 1mm or less and see how it goes.

If that is your problem and you want to use a larger gap (although if it just cracks your grain your not going to get very good efficiency) then try a different pulley size to increase torque.


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## tateg

Do you recon one like this would work


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## Grainer

yes


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## ohgoodthinking99

To those asking about specific models of bread makers being suitable as motor donors, I would think they all will work just fine.
Mine happened to be a 220VDC motor.
The source AC went to the main controller board (and was transformed to 14VDC for use with the buttons etc)
The same original AC was routed out the motor's circuit board by the controller, in pulses of course for making bread.
It's there that it's converted to DC for the motor.
It was easy to take to the controller board out of the loop and connect the source AC (via the switch still) direct to the motor's board.

My next challange is to work out how to connect a roller to my big wheel!


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## blekk

Grainer said:


> Found a sunbeam on the way home after beerfest same as urs ...now gotta work out all the wiring.. same as u


Where are you guys finding these?! The best things I've every found out and about is a broken thong and half eaten curry!


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## Eagleburger

gumtree.already got a mill motor so will use mine in a 500-1200g coffee roaster.


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## [email protected]

Hey All,
I got a Breville 1.5Kg Bread Maker from the local Recycle place for $10. As my mill shaft and the Breadmaker's shaft were the same diameter, I used one of the bearings from the Breadmaker as a coupling. It spins at about 80 rpm and does not even grunt under a full hopper of grain. I'll post some pics when I get home.

Cheers,

Andrew.


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## motiondynamics

Hi guys, 
for those of you with the AC motors that are running the wrong way, turn the large rectangular capacitor around!
Make sure you leave any and all fuses intact! If possible remove the boards in their entirety! Most motor driver boards will be separate to keep the motor noise away from the delicate control circuitry!
If the motor doesn't have enough grunt, then either decrease the pulley size on the motor, or increase the pulley size on the drive.
Be wary of overloading the DC motors from the ac appliances that use rectifiers! Usually they are low current diodes. You can replace these with bigger rectifiers if you need more current, but remember, a lot of these motors have thin wiring so that's also something to think about!
If they have filters and smoothing capacitors on additional boards, make sure you keep these intact! 

If you can find multiple bread makers and one doesn't have the right motor, make sure you keep the gears! They may come in handy for the one you find that does have the grunt, but maybe not the correct speed!

What you guys are doing looks like a heck of a lot of fun! I wish I had time to do this stuff!
Good luck!


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## nosco

I got my bread maker on ghe weekend. It made big loaf bread so it has 2 pulley wheels. The motor has 4 wires coming out of it? 2 are blue which i guess make 3 wires. I have a sparky mate who said he can rig up a fancy on off switch for it. But id like to have it workin asap and hes not known for being in a hurry. Do i hook it straight to the mains with the cap as in the qiring diagram? If i can get it mostly wired and get him to check it i might save some time.


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## nosco

Truman said:


> Your motor could be a 12volt motor. Some of them do have 12 volt motors. So dont go hooking up 240v to it. Post some pictures of the motor and the circuit board.
> 
> You can still use a 12volt motor you just have to keep the circuit board intact.


Ok so I wont be hooking it up to a power point then :blink: Ill have to use a drill until I can get a sparky to help me. It helps to read the whole thread :lol:


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## nosco

Wait...good old you tube. As it turns out I can hook it up to 240 B) At least I can knock up a mill stand, wire it up and then get it checked out. Im gonna use the housing from the bread machine too so it will hopefully be pretty neat.


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## Grainer

Gave up on the bread maker and did this after the bread mill failed to operate properly !


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## Mr B

Grainer said:


> Gave up on the bread maker and did this after the bread mill failed to operate properly !



Yeah, its ok, a little better than a bread maker.........


Mate, that is fantastic, great job. What does the second dial and push button do? Fan speed and switch?


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## Grainer

petentiometer incase a rock gets caught it stops the motor and motor speed..the other buttons are a brake and reset


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## hobospy

Sorry to drag up an old old thread but after joining in on the mill BB I was looking for motor options. I already have a drill with adjustable speed which should work but I am keen to build something I can just flick on and off. Keen to understand if anyone is still using a bread machine motor to drive their mill and if so any hints on finding a suitable donor. My only thought at present is to look for one that is able to make larger loaves, hoping that means the motor has a little more torque to handle the dough and therefore should be OK to handle milling the grain.


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## nosco

I had one going at first from a bigger machine i found on Gumtree. It wouldnt work under load. I has to turn it on first and then slowly trickle in the grain in. If i filled the hopper too much it would jam and id have to start all over again.

Eventually i bit the bullet and got the Motion Dynamaics motor which i highly recommend. Set and foget. Mills about 12kg of grain in about 15min without shreading it.


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## hobospy

Yeah, it was actually your post that made me ask the question, don't want to waste time/money sorting out the bread machine motor if it just isn't good enough


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## nosco

Theres could be something im missing because im pretty useless with electrics but if you fillow the wiring diagtam that comes with the MD motor then you cant go wrong. I reckon a good mill deserves a good motor.


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## Mardoo

Nosco, did you use a pulley on your setup?


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## nosco

Nah direct drive with a spider coupler


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## Mardoo

Sorry, I mean when you used the bread machine motor.


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## nosco

Yeah thats what i meant. Pretty sure thats what i did. I accumulated a few couplers. The bread machine came with some pretty cool toothed wheels and belts but to use them i would have had to lathe the mill shaft. I dont have access to a lathe plus i didnt really want to change it.


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## Mardoo

Cheers!


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## hobospy

Ahhhhh, I think the pulleys were a necessary part of the build to increase the torque or something (and possibly reduce the speed to the correct remember) ....... seems the bread maker option might still be alive, currently following one at $1 so worth a punt


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## nosco

Did i mention that im also pretty useless at engineering?


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## nosco

Yeah looking at the original post thats the exact same pulleys i had from my brrad machine. Moding the mill shaft wasnt an option though.


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## hobospy

Would the coupler get round that though? Seems like in one of the posts they were able to work with two different shaft sizes?


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## nosco

I havnt read the whole thread in a long time and i got rid of the bits in the last garage purge. Overdue for another one.
Sorry cant help you there


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## hobospy

That's cool, thanks for all the tips


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## Tony121

hobospy said:


> Ahhhhh, I think the pulleys were a necessary part of the build to increase the torque



Pulleys won’t increase the torque, it is dictated by the motor.


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## Lionman

Tony121 said:


> Pulleys won’t increase the torque, it is dictated by the motor.



The pulley system is a gear reduction mechanism which divides speed but multiplies torque. Effective torque is increased by gear reduction.


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## Tony121

Lionman said:


> The pulley system is a gear reduction mechanism which divides speed but multiplies torque. Effective torque is increased by gear reduction.


Apologies, I stand corrected.


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## nosco

From memory (which i wouldnt trust) the smaller gear on the motor is already attached. So you might only have to tap a thread in the end of the mill shaft to bolt on the larger one. Getting the spacing to tighten the belt would be the only other thing. I think it was a Sunbeam or similar nread maker.


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## Truman42

nosco said:


> From memory (which i wouldnt trust) the smaller gear on the motor is already attached. So you might only have to tap a thread in the end of the mill shaft to bolt on the larger one. Getting the spacing to tighten the belt would be the only other thing. I think it was a Sunbeam or similar nread maker.


That is correct and also why yours didnt work as you didnt have the torque because you were driving it directly instead of with the pulleys used in the bread machine.


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## nosco

My lack of engineering knowledge was not enough to tell.
Alas poor bread machine motor, I did not know thee well[emoji25]


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## Mardoo

nosco said:


> Alas poor bread machine motor, I did not know thee well[emoji25]


And wantonly drove it to its death for your own pleasure. You’re a real cnut nosco


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## nosco

Just another sacrifice to the beer gods.[emoji120]


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## Mardoo

nosco said:


> Just another sacrifice to the beer gods.[emoji120]



LOL! At least it wasn’t a burnt offering.


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## scooterism

Re-awakening an old thread,

So, I picked up one of these for a tenner off GT, it's a Breville Breadman with the big block 425W motor.

Can I just ask, if I remove the blue and yellow from the board and connect to the mains with a switch, I'm good to go? (w/ earths intact)


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## Truman42

No it hs to connect through the starter capacitor. Check out posts 15 and also 34.


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## Peregrine

I don't want to seem patronising (God knows how guilty I've been in this department) but if you're not completely sure what you're doing with mains power wiring at least get someone who is to check it over - preferably a sparky. 240 volts can be unforgiving and even if it "works" the next person (or child) who comes along can get a rude shock.


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## scooterism

I'm trying to work out what my final rpm is, any tricks?


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## timmi9191

scooterism said:


> I'm trying to work out what my final rpm is, any tricks?


Count how many revolutions it does in a minute


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## ceptic

Thanks for the inspiration... Got mine finished, sits on a bucket and less awkward than a drill. https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRiVVcnqqP/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1n80jjk04qmx2

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRjQ0AHYEt/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=7l55ybs9uabx


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## real_beer

ceptic said:


> Thanks for the inspiration... Got mine finished, sits on a bucket and less awkward than a drill. https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRiVVcnqqP/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1n80jjk04qmx2
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRjQ0AHYEt/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=7l55ybs9uabx



Love it mate!


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## Truman42

ceptic said:


> Thanks for the inspiration... Got mine finished, sits on a bucket and less awkward than a drill. https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRiVVcnqqP/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1n80jjk04qmx2
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRjQ0AHYEt/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=7l55ybs9uabx


Good stuff. Mine is still going strong almost 5 years later.


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## Ballaratguy

ceptic said:


> Thanks for the inspiration... Got mine finished, sits on a bucket and less awkward than a drill. https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRiVVcnqqP/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1n80jjk04qmx2
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BrRjQ0AHYEt/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=7l55ybs9uabx


Hey cepticwhat sort of motor is that?
It looks nice and neat and a complete package
I’ve also been looking at a similar type of motor on eBay for about $14 12v 120rpm that also has a 10kg torque


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## ceptic

It is the base housing from an old Kambrook Bread Maker that I purchased new in '97. I replaced it with aI$10 salvo's machine that makes bigger loaves.

Using the existing housing keeps the motor and reduction pulley in alignment. The motor cover is the aluminium bread pan with switch added and vent holes drilled. I wanted to try this option, using an 8mm to 10mm spider coupler, as it minimised the sideways torque on the pulley, removed mounting issues and allowed me to enclose the belt, 240v and other bitey bits.


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## ceptic

Here are some pics of how I mounted the housing on the bamboo base board that came with the mill. I had to cut and notch the base board to mount the casing. A hammer sorted out the aluminium bread-pan mounting points.


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## captain crumpet

definitely makes mine look like overkill, just finished it this week


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## Mikeyr

captain crumpet said:


> View attachment 114471
> definitely makes mine look like overkill, just finished it this week



How many bodies can you get through in an hour ..... my brain immediately went to the woodchipper scene in Fargo!


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## solidute

The thread that (hopefully) keeps on giving.

All pics will be put on at the end.

Picked up a breville bread maker today and just ripped it apart. The cap has no tabs just 2 wires soldered directly to the motor see pics. 

Any help on this side of things would be appreciated. 
Cheers


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## Truman42

AC1=Active 240V in
AC2= Neutral out
M01 and M02 are power to the motor.

Unscrew and remove the Blue and brown wires from that terminal block (Otherside of the 240 v plug) and cut the wires at M01 and M02 and screw them into the terminal block (Either way is fine) Turn the power on and the motor should work. 
You then just need to add a switch on the active (Brown wire)


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## solidute

Thanks mate, much appreciated.


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## solidute

Works well. Thanks.


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## Tony121

captain crumpet said:


> View attachment 114471
> definitely makes mine look like overkill, just finished it this week


Where’s the VSD?


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## Hangover68

After reading this thread i thought i would jump on the band wagon, picked up a breville BM for $10 and will pull it apart tomorrow.


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## Hangover68

Gutted the bm and made a start on the motor mount bracket by utilising the original bracket redrilled, need to fold up some alloy sheet to raise the mill so the drive wheel clears the base board.


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## Ballaratguy

Why not just cut a slot for the drive wheel and guard as required?


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## Hangover68

Ballaratguy said:


> Why not just cut a slot for the drive wheel and guard as required?



That did cross my mind but i need to try and keep the centerlines of the motor and mill inline so the belt doesn't hit the mounting bracket, its a close fit as the belt is short.


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## Hangover68

All done bar painting of the base plywood, tested it out on 500g of crystal which it made light work of.
Then i filled the hopped with dark munich and it ate thru the 5kg in no time all, very happy with the result.
After looking at various options it work out easier to recess the mill drive wheel which meant less fabrication.


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