# Lager Recipe For Spiedels Braumeister



## edubrueurope (27/1/12)

BM owners.... have you successfully brewed a pilsner lager? 

What recipe did you use?

Did you use the standard settings or did you programme your own times and temperatures?

Any answers gratefully received.


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## pmash (27/1/12)

Hi, check out the recipe page on the Speidel site.

http://www.speidels-braumeister.de/Beer-Re...s5pj21lgom74ib3

Recipe is for the 200 lt. so scale to suit.

Cheers


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## edubrueurope (1/2/12)

Last night i did my first brew on the 50 litre Braumeister machine. I found a pilsner recipe that i used. Below is some facts n figures:

53 ltrs water
10kg organic lager malt
100g saaz hops
2 x 11g saflager 34-70 yeast

Mashing in 38 deg c
Phase1 - 52 deg c - zero mins
Phase2 - 63 deg c -40 mins
Phase3 - 73 deg c - 25 mins
Phase4 - 78 deg c - 10 mins

7 ltrs sparge @ 78 deg c

Hopping - 100 deg c - 80 mins
75g added after 10 mins
25g added after 70 mins

I took a few readings - ph of the wort was 5.5 and i think the OG was 1009.... does that sound right?

I added the yeast directly to the wort - below 20 deg c, and it is now sitting in my store room at 11 deg c.

Will let you know how it turns out....


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## Thefatdoghead (1/2/12)

I am doing a bohemian pilsner soon so iv'e been researching lagers (pilsners in particular). From what you have said your PH is good but OG 1009 isn't right. From 10kg of grain you should be around the 1.048-1.052 mark. Also how did you pitch the yeast? 

I have 4 packs of dried yeast that ill rehydrate and pitch into 50L. You need a lot more yeast than an ale for lager's and if you just sprinkled it on top then you definitely wont have enough healthy numbers with 2 packs of yeast for a nice clean profile.

Cheers

Also how much wort did you end up with? 10kg of grain should soak up about 16-17L and you would have boiled off 7-9L so if you started with 53L then you would only have ended up with around 36L


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## doon (1/2/12)

Isn't grain absorption 1litre per 1kg of grain?


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## Thefatdoghead (1/2/12)

1kg of grain will absorb 1.66L of water. It's in designing great beers. The units in the book are LB/gal I just converted the units


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## doon (1/2/12)

I work off 1:1 on my 20l braumeister and it's bang on


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## Thefatdoghead (1/2/12)

I have been working on the 1:1 as well and admittedly have been coming up short in volume maybe anywhere from 3-6L. Into a 60L fermentor doesn't seem much, so I really didn't click that my volume was quiet a bit out. I usually take about 2L loss to trub then 1:1 for the grain say 10L and 7L per hr for evaporation. 
All my recipes now I just start from 53L minus grain bill x 1.66 and then take off evaporation for a 90min boil. Add 2L for trub and whatever I want my final volume to be so I know how much sparge water to use. I have my efficiency set at 84%.
There is another thread about all this, im not completely sure but maybe different crush rates may vary the amount of spent grain absorption. 
Cheers


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## edubrueurope (2/2/12)

Thanks for all your replies.... plenty of food for thought in there!




Gav80 said:


> I am doing a bohemian pilsner soon so iv'e been researching lagers (pilsners in particular). From what you have said your PH is good but OG 1009 isn't right. From 10kg of grain you should be around the 1.048-1.052 mark.



I bought my hydrometer from germany and it reads in degrees Plato - 9 is around 1.037?




> Also how did you pitch the yeast?



It was getting real late and i just sprinkled the two packs over the top and gave it a good stir....

If it comes out even half drinkable i'll be happy.



> Also how much wort did you end up with? 10kg of grain should soak up about 16-17L and you would have boiled off 7-9L so if you started with 53L then you would only have ended up with around 36L



Not exactly sure about that either.... but probably nearer to 36 than 50 litres.


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## Thefatdoghead (2/2/12)

Yep 9 plato is SG 1.036. I think if you had of sparged more like 15-20L your gravity would have gone up. 

2 packs of yeast sprinkled on top ey. Im pretty sure from reading you will only have about 20% viable yeast with healthy cell's. I have not tried a yeast in a lager by just sprinkling it on top but im sure your numbers will be down and the yeast may produce unwanted fusel alcohols or may not attenuate all the way and your beer will be more susceptible for infection to take over, or your beer might be all good.


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## edubrueurope (7/2/12)

Just a quick update.... the fermentation has been going on for a week now... did a reading - 6 plato / 1024.
Its been cold here recently and the temperature in the store is 10 deg C - but the brew is still bubbling along!

How do i know when its done?

To return to the sparging / mash efficiency question.... am i right in thinking that the objective is to sparge with enough water to bring the volume of wort up to the starting volume of water ie 53l?

Hows this for next time:

Water - 53l

10kg Malt - minus 10 x 1.66 = 16l

Boiling - minus 9 l for 80mins

Total sparge water - 25l


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## edubrueurope (1/3/12)

The brew has finally finished fermenting.... after three weeks! Its still only 11 - 12 deg C so maybe thats why it has taken so long.

My next problem is how to get it fizzed! I intend to bottle in 500ml flip top bottles and have been advised to add 4gms of sugar to each bottle before filling. I understand that the bottles then need to be put somewhere warm to produce the CO2 needed to make a good lager.

Any advice on how to get the CO2 levels up?

What temperature and for for how long?

Thanks


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## Nick JD (1/3/12)

edubrueurope said:


> The brew has finally finished fermenting.... after three weeks! Its still only 11 - 12 deg C so maybe thats why it has taken so long.
> 
> My next problem is how to get it fizzed! I intend to bottle in 500ml flip top bottles and have been advised to add 4gms of sugar to each bottle before filling. I understand that the bottles then need to be put somewhere warm to produce the CO2 needed to make a good lager.
> 
> ...



Check out "diacetyl rests". I notice you have hopped this beer quite lightly. 100g of Saaz in a double batch is probably less than 20 IBUs.


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## iralosavic (1/3/12)

That is a 100 bottles! I'd definitely bulk prime! Google "bulk priming calculator". Use the beer style drop down menu and find pilsner and enter the co2 volume it recommends in the calculator. The temperature field is for the highest temp reached during fermentation. Simply boil the calculated amount of dextrose with just enough water to submerge it and pour it into the bottom of another sanitized vessel (a fermenter with a wide mouth is easy, but I usually spray sanitiser on a clean tea towel and use that to cover the opening to prevent airborne bateria entering while siphoning. Siphon the beer onto the sugar and gently stir for a few minutes then bottle as usual (skipping the sugar adding 100 times part). Have fun!


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## stux (1/3/12)

1L/Kg sounds like apparent absorption
1.66L/Kg sounds like real absorption

The difference being you extract extract from grain which increase the final total volume


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## edubrueurope (2/3/12)

iralosavic said:


> That is a 100 bottles! I'd definitely bulk prime! Google "bulk priming calculator". Use the beer style drop down menu and find pilsner and enter the co2 volume it recommends in the calculator. The temperature field is for the highest temp reached during fermentation. Simply boil the calculated amount of dextrose with just enough water to submerge it and pour it into the bottom of another sanitized vessel (a fermenter with a wide mouth is easy, but I usually spray sanitiser on a clean tea towel and use that to cover the opening to prevent airborne bateria entering while siphoning. Siphon the beer onto the sugar and gently stir for a few minutes then bottle as usual (skipping the sugar adding 100 times part). Have fun!



Thanks for the reply.... good suggestions - should save me a LOT of time and hassle!!!

One other question - it should be ok to use white sugar instead, right?


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## QldKev (2/3/12)

This thread sux...


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