Yeast pitching.....FFS there is enough in pack

[manticle]

Do you hop your starters? DME or mash?

Mash and they are hopped by default.

I no chill so I run the last bit out, with break into an erlenmeyer. Next day decant off the break, re-boil, cool and add my yeast. Shake and ferment at intended ferment temps, when active I pitch the lot into aerated wort.

 

[TidalPete]

Mash and they are hopped by default.

I no chill so I run the last bit out, with break into an erlenmeyer. Next day decant off the break, re-boil, cool and add my yeast. Shake and ferment at intended ferment temps, when active I pitch the lot into aerated wort.

+1 more or less. Same whether chill or no-chill.
Have 4 x frozen ready for new starters when needed.

 

[slash22000]

"In my experience I've never had a problem underpitching yeast."

... does not mean ...

"It is a fact that underpitching yeast is not a problem."

...

Underpitching and overpitching are absolutely potential problems. Appreciate your advice you've obviously been doing this way longer than I have, but let's not pretend that ideal yeast pitching rates are some kind of scam/myth.

 

[Bada Bing Brewery]

I do a starter for everything (might only be for 4-6 hrs, longer for lagers of course kids)
Why?
Coz I bought a stirplate for 80 bucks - that's why.
Mr Malty - bite me .......
Cheers
BBB

 

[iralosavic]

I think Stu's main point is that starters are a process that complicates home brewing to the degree where a lot of noobs are becoming overwhelmed and that simply pitching what comes in the smack pack is not that bad of a compromise to simply switching to liquid yeasts. I have a tendency to agree when it comes to mid gravity ales, but a inclination to disagree when it comes to mid+ gravity lagers. Two packs of dried yeast will cost less and assuming all other factors are equal, will produce a superior result (assuming the chosen strain is reasonable). 34/70, for example, is available in both wyeast and white labs and is massively widely used and produces good beers if cold conditioned long enough to clear the sulphur. However, if you under-pitch it, it starts to introduce flavours you'd expect more in a Belgian and without the backbone to hide them, the beer becomes obviously flawed.

 

[bum]

I think Stu's main point is that starters are a process that complicates home brewing

No. He literally means that the amount of yeast supplied in a sachet is always enough.

Said that in a thread about Coopers kit yeasts very recently (yesterday?).

He's completely wrong, of course.

[EDIT: strikethrough]

 

[Rowy]

No. He literally means that the amount of yeast supplied in a sachet is always enough.

Said that in a thread about Coopers kit yeasts very recently (yesterday?).

He's completely wrong, of course.

[EDIT: strikethrough]

Quote your source. (About him being wrong)

 

[Econwatson]

Well there's not always enough for a 22 litre batch in a sachet.

I think a Windsor Sachet is only good for 11 litres or so, learnt that to my cost with a stout I brewed.

 

[slash22000]

http://seanterrill.com/2010/05/09/yeast-pitching-rate-results/

http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pitching-rate-experiment-part-deux-results/

Etc etc. Too tired to Google more of them. The point is that overpitching/underpitching has been demonstrated roughly five billion times to have an obvious effect on beer. Not in every case, of course, but to say that underpitching/overpitching is a non-concern is patently false.

I get what OP is trying to say, that in most cases a pack of dry yeast is enough, which is probably true, but there is a difference between saying that and saying ideal pitching rates are a myth.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

For what it's worth my simple rules of thumb:
i
1. If it's ale wort under 1050 and the pack is a month or two old and swells on the same day - pitch directly or into 2 L of identical wort saved from an NC brew. Pitch when active.
2. If using dry (rarely do), sprinkle straight in
3 If over 1050 or if it's a lager, I definitely make an active starter - strong beers and lagers will get up to 6-8 L from a single, whole smack pack. I no longer split.

Not theoretically best practice by any means and I recommend anyone interested in cell counts and the effect on beer gets reading (plenty of references) and possibly invest in a microscope and start cell counting.

For me, the above approach works well. All my batches are 18-22 L.

FFS ....Just throw the whole pack in...

 

[bum]

Quote your source. (About him being wrong)

Are you shitting me? You're saying 7gms of dried yeast is ALWAYS enough?

What a piggish attitude!

 

[jc64]

Are you shitting me? You're saying 7gms of dried yeast is ALWAYS enough?

What a piggish attitude!

Who uses 7g packets of dry yeast? I thought they were all over 11g?

 

[bum]

Who uses 7g packets of dry yeast? I thought they were all over 11g?

Are you for real?

 

[jyo]

I always make a starter now, unless pitching into a low gravity wort and only if the smack pack is fresh. Talking ales here.

When I first started using liquid yeast I had way too many beers with massive lag times and stalled ferments.

 

[manticle]

FFS ....Just throw the whole pack in...

FFS.....just let other brewers do whatever they do.

My process suits me. My process sometimes includes throwing the whole pack in.

Sometimes it doesn't.

It's not about whether or not it works. Bread yeast would work too (if getting yeast to eat sugar and fart co2 and ethanol is considered 'working'). It's about getting the results you're happy with, using processes that suit. I make many compromises between ideal and real and will continue to choose when and how I make them.



As you were chief.

 

[jc64]

Are you for real?

No, I'm a bot.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Said that in a thread about Coopers kit yeasts very recently

[EDIT: strikethrough]

No. I did not.

 

[bum]

Coopers (the standard range, at least, maybe the others too) definitely use 7gm packs of yeast. Generally stored in ****** conditions at POS, too.

The generally-given advice to always throw away the lid yeast isn't something I agree with but saying that it is enough for the general case is worse, IMO.

 

[rbtmc]

There is enough in a packet to successfully turn wort into beer, but it's clearly not ideal in plenty of circumstances.
I find there is a HUGE difference in the end product when it comes to pitching rates. If you want to brew higher gravity brews, forget about it.

 

[bum]

No. I did not.

Yes, you did. Click the thing that shows you your most recent posts.

That may not be what you meant but it is what you actually said. Also what you said here.