Wyeast Trappist Blend

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

j1gsaw

Certified Pisswreck
Joined
15/1/09
Messages
732
Reaction score
1
Hey Gang.
Im doin a Bel Tripel tommorow using the Wyeast Trappist blend.
Now.... i just had a bit of a google on the yeast and was partially worried about certain feedback it has,
one bloke said you would need to use all new gear, ie tubes, carboy etc due to it having Brett, and it can linger and cause future infections with other brews ??
What the :huh:
Apparenty he only uses glass carboys when doing these brews.

I was just under the impression it was a standard bel strain, but now im up in arms about doing it.
Surely if i just ferment as norm at 18-20deg until primary is done, and bottle, the brett or "pellicle"? (spelling)
some bloke said, can form in the bottle with a few months rest?
This is the first time i have used this kind of yeast, just wondering if anyone can shed some light.
As i always just bottle right off primary, should it be more wise to transfer to secondary for these kind of beers? So as to let this Bloody brett thing perform better, or just stick to what i know.
Cheers
 
There's 3787 (trappist high gravity) and 3789 which contains brett.

Which one are you using?
 
Can't specifically advise - I have experience with 87 but not 89.

Additionally many brewers seem to state contrary things - some swear that wild/sour/funky type yeasts require their own equipment and some swear that a good sanitation regime removes everything.

All I can offer is this - I'm about to brew an aged, deliberately soured beer which will contain sacch, brett and lacto. I'm using new fermenters and a new ageing vessel as the cost is minimal, ageing requires something other than plastic and I don't want to tie any of my other vessels up for a year.

The costs for new bits are fairly minimal so play it safe. If you really want to know the answer, buy two new vessels, brew brett beer in both then use one of them for a big sacch beer, age it and see how it goes. Sanitise everything like you mean it.
 
Can't specifically advise - I have experience with 87 but not 89.

Additionally many brewers seem to state contrary things - some swear that wild/sour/funky type yeasts require their own equipment and some swear that a good sanitation regime removes everything.

All I can offer is this - I'm about to brew an aged, deliberately soured beer which will contain sacch, brett and lacto. I'm using new fermenters and a new ageing vessel as the cost is minimal, ageing requires something other than plastic and I don't want to tie any of my other vessels up for a year.

The costs for new bits are fairly minimal so play it safe. If you really want to know the answer, buy two new vessels, brew brett beer in both then use one of them for a big sacch beer, age it and see how it goes. Sanitise everything like you mean it.

Many will swear that the equipment must be kept separate as manticle says, but to quote one brewer from here "it's a yeast and it can be killed like a yeast". I don't think the level of Brett that blend will likely contain will be an issue with a good sanitising routine, but it's a personal choice really...

You don't need to age in something other than plastic when dealing with brett and other sours. I aged mine in plastic for over a year...

I actually retire my older scratched looking fermenters into sour beer production, as I don't care that the scratches may hide bugs...

Like almost anything in brewing you'll find a bunch of answers and you have to decide on the way you want to go...
 
If sanitising isn't going to kill the bugs then we are all buggered.
Isn't that why we bother cleaning and sanitising in the first place?
I always clean and sanitise as if the bugs are there anyway, not just for the sake of it.
If it were me though I would use a seperate vessel as Manticle suggests. Only so my brewery isn't tied up for the amount of time it takes to age one of these buggas. I want some oak barrels. The thought of having something in plastic for an extended amount of time doesn't appeal to me even though it does allow oxygen to enter to some degree. Glass would be impermeable to oxygen so I'm not sure on it's application for these purposes.
 
Righto, thanks for that.
I also read that i will need to add yeast to the brew before bottling after about 6 months rest in secondary?
Do i get another pack of the same Wyeast to dump in the beer or which kind?

Also, should i have the brew sitting at 18-20deg while in secondary or can it stay at room temp.. which is about 25-35 deg atm.
 
Righto, thanks for that.
I also read that i will need to add yeast to the brew before bottling after about 6 months rest in secondary?
Do i get another pack of the same Wyeast to dump in the beer or which kind?

Also, should i have the brew sitting at 18-20deg while in secondary or can it stay at room temp.. which is about 25-35 deg atm.

You can condition at room temp. Lower is better but I had mine in a room that is generally around the 25-28 mark in summer.

With bottling yeast you don't need to use the same sort. People often use Us05 or champagne yeast. Just something simple and neutral.
 
I have a couple of packets of S04 here, so is it basically as simple as sprinkling a packet in, very gentle stir, and bottle as norm?
Any chance of bottle bombs with the new yeast added?
 
Im also just about to use this yeast 3789

looking at making belgian blonde or belgian pale ale for starters, this will get my yeast count up for a belgian dark strong.

going to age the drak strong in king browns until forever or at least 12months.

the blonde or pale will be aged but shorter possibly 6months.

on the advice that the yeast strain contains brett, as said above its a yeast and can be killed cleaned out with a good schedule, ive got an old fermenter that i will be looking to replace shortly so it may just be retained for styles that could handle a little brett.

Kleiny
 
could you guys report back with results of the yeast once you've brewed... was considering making an orval clone with this yeast ;)
 
I brewed with this yeast recently. I didn't have much to go on as it was fairly new and I couldn't find any feedback at the time.

I was looking to get a similar flavour and aroma to Orval, and from memory, it has been successful! It is an awesome beer, the best I have made!

It took 2 and a half months all up fermenting in the warm bedroom upstairs. Temps would probably get to around 30 in there. Final gravity was 1009 and had been that reading for 3 weeks. The pellicle film started about 4 weeks in, when the weather warmed up.

I used the same amount of sugar as with any brew to prime after that 2 and a half months. I bottled the entire batch so I could age some. Carbonation in the bottle did take longer than usual. But after 4 weeks, carbonation is quite good, I would like it just a little more carbonated though for this type of beer. It may continue to increase in carbonation, I don't know. As I said, it tastes brilliant right now!

I have 3 fermenters so I will keep 1 for the "funky" types of beers from now on. I have a 2nd one in there at the moment using this yeast. I'll get another one on as soon as this finishes. Did I mention it it fantastic?

Cheers,
Craig
 
I brewed with this yeast recently. I didn't have much to go on as it was fairly new and I couldn't find any feedback at the time.

I was looking to get a similar flavour and aroma to Orval, and from memory, it has been successful! It is an awesome beer, the best I have made!

It took 2 and a half months all up fermenting in the warm bedroom upstairs. Temps would probably get to around 30 in there. Final gravity was 1009 and had been that reading for 3 weeks. The pellicle film started about 4 weeks in, when the weather warmed up.

I used the same amount of sugar as with any brew to prime after that 2 and a half months. I bottled the entire batch so I could age some. Carbonation in the bottle did take longer than usual. But after 4 weeks, carbonation is quite good, I would like it just a little more carbonated though for this type of beer. It may continue to increase in carbonation, I don't know. As I said, it tastes brilliant right now!

I have 3 fermenters so I will keep 1 for the "funky" types of beers from now on. I have a 2nd one in there at the moment using this yeast. I'll get another one on as soon as this finishes. Did I mention it it fantastic?

Cheers,
Craig

Great stuff! I have had my tripel fermenting with this yeast for about 8 days now at 18deg, it is just starting to drop its huge krausen. I might even take it out of the cool and let it sit at ambient for a week (25-28deg) if this is advisable?? I plan to use a glass carboy for secondary rest.
 
I would increase the temperature. Mine seemed to enjoy the warmer temp.
 
It was AG;

88% JW Pilsner
6% Weyermann Caramunich 1
6% Weyermann Wheat
400g home made candy in a 24 litre batch

Hopped to 30 IBU with Styrian Goldings

Kept in primary the whole time (no secondary). Finished with a magnificent 7% beer.
 
It was AG;

88% JW Pilsner
6% Weyermann Caramunich 1
6% Weyermann Wheat
400g home made candy in a 24 litre batch

Hopped to 30 IBU with Styrian Goldings

Kept in primary the whole time (no secondary). Finished with a magnificent 7% beer.

Sounds similiar to the brew i did
Dingeman pils / wey caramunich / carapils / amber candy sugar.
used Nth Brewer and Mt Hood hops.

So basically you just left it sit for 2.5 months on primary? And it formed pellicle no worries? then bottled?
 
Yep, initial (standard) fermentation was over in a few weeks. The krausen dropped, the weather warmed up, the pellicle formed (just a fine white film and filmy bubbles). Two and a half months after pitching the yeast it was bottled. Really simple, bloody good!
 
Righto, sounds good, i might do the same.
What was your OG by the way goossey?
I got 1.075-80 for my tripel, which is pretty good for style i reckon.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top