Which PID controller? Auberins vs Sestos? Which Sensor?

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In the settings menu you change PB to calibrate your probe. I heated some water to 65C measured with a glass thermometer, and sat my probe and glass thermometer in the water then noticed how much it was out by. Then you just change PB up or down and check again.
 
Qldkev??

Do you use heat sinks with your ssr?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Output-24V-380V-25A-SSR-25-DA-Solid-State-Relay-For-PID-Temperature-Controller-/370812041158
ThIs one does not seem to have an option for one but the below looks like it would fit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-For-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-Small-Type-Heat-Dissipation-/330862162902?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d08ebf3d6

I quite like the look of the auberins ones with the option to externally mount the heat sink, have you been able to do this on the fotek ssr?

Somebody mentioned normally a closed ssr so the HLT element only runs when hx one is pulsed off. Understand the wiring, but can,t seem to find one on evil bay. Any ideas?

Cheers all
 
IMHO always use heat sinks with a SSR, you may be able to get away without one with a small load, but wire it up to suit what else may get plugged into it.

Most my builds use those rack mount heat sinks you linked too as they are cheap, but take up space in the box. Jaycar also have these heat sinks that are external and fairly priced. They are the ones used in the Matho's controller build. You could also use the Fotek SSR on the Auber heat sink. Also the electric brewery sells external heat sinks.

Here's a NC SSR. Good idea to use of for sharing element outputs. There is a circuit diagram on the forum somewhere to wire up what you have asked using normal NO SSR's. I asked the same question a while back.

QldKev
 
Thanks
Am i right in thinking that the NormClosed ssr is only going to be 12V input, and also 12V load?
(Its put in serial with the 12V input going to the SSr that controls the 'other' element, ie HLT.

If that's the case, wouldn't something like this do? Think this is Norm Open, but spec / rating wise, it would be enough?

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=SY4093

or

http://www.futurlec.com.au/RelSS.jsp
2nd one down shows load terminals 1 -- 2&3 so 2or3 is NO and the other NC?

Will look for that circuit diagram now
 
Edak said:
Nah I have arduino based PID units in my brewery and those terrible Rex ripoffs in my smoker and sous vide. I was only commenting on the auberins because they are apparently the ducks nuts according to the many posts I have read. Sorry i didn't help.
Hi Edak, where did you get the code & cct for the arduino PID controller?
Dave
 
With the previously mentioned PID controllers, does anyone those with an analog output? I think everyone just uses the digital ON/OFF control. Do these switch slowly, or are they more like a PWM with faster switching? Does this make sense?

I hope I am also not hijacking the thread.
 
Edgebrew said:
With the previously mentioned PID controllers, does anyone those with an analog output? I think everyone just uses the digital ON/OFF control. Do these switch slowly, or are they more like a PWM with faster switching? Does this make sense?

I hope I am also not hijacking the thread.

None use true PWM / analogue, they just switch ON/OFF at a rapid rate if you use the SSR model, or a slower rate using the relay version.
 
QldKev said:
None use true PWM / analogue, they just switch ON/OFF at a rapid rate if you use the SSR model, or a slower rate using the relay version.
Ah cool. Thanks QldKev.
 
QldKev said:
None use true PWM / analogue, they just switch ON/OFF at a rapid rate if you use the SSR model,
PWM is basically that, at least it acheives the same thing, no?

I can only speak for the Sestos but it is able to output anything between 0-100% power with an SSR by doing this which would not be possible with a relay which is only on or off.
 
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