What is this keg coupler and how do I open it?

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AHB folks,

Another wet weekend is on the way and it's time for inside projects... Assuming there is no rust inside this keg I would like to repurpose it as a fermenter, however a few minutes into this evening's project I realised I had no idea what I am doing nor do I appear to have the appropriate tools for the job to rotate or remove the spear.

The source of the project: a few months ago I purchased a bunch of brewing equipment off a foreigner who was selling all of their brewing gear before returning to their country of origin (NZ), and as I was relieving them of the last of their miscellaneous items (silicon tubing, pbw, etc) they threw in what looks like a 1/4bbl keg that they had been looking to convert into a HLT before their sudden need to return home.

I am having trouble identifying the coupler required and how I should open it as the previous owner had already had a decent (unsuccessful) go at opening it up with something between a screwdriver and chisel by the looks of the lugs and lack whatever goes on top of the spear!

From some google image searches am guessing it may be an S type but without the seal & ball I'm really not sure.

I am hoping some of the knowledgeable members of the AHB community may be able to assist me with identifying the following keg coupler type (mangled as it is) and how to go about removing it.


Cheers!

kegspear1.jpg


kegspear2.jpg


kegspear3.jpg
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mywdx-l2VJY

looks like sanke, this vid may help ?
 
That does look promising, thank you - I will give it a go in the morning.
 
Still no luck. At the point where the video uses a flat blade screwdriver to lever up the spear, I can get absolutely no vertical movement at all.

Have already put a slight bend in one of my cheap old screwdrivers!

Wondering if I should try and put in some WD40 to see if that can loosen whatever is jammed or seized...
 
That looks like an S type keg (sanke keg) - search for "how to open an asahi type keg" and that should help (I'd link it but on phone atm). Basically you depress the centre pin and unscrew the spear, having a coupler makes it much easier.

Edit: correct coupler
 
blair said:
That looks like an S type keg (sanke keg) - search for "how to open an asahi type keg" and that should help (I'd link it but on phone atm). Basically you depress the centre pin and unscrew the spear, having a coupler makes it much easier.

Edit: correct coupler
Problem is - it doesn't look like the centre pin is actually in the spear, according to the photo
 
Is that a small keg .
The previous owner may have damaged it beyond repair.
 
Doesn't look like the spear/dip tube is there anymore. I agree with wynnum. Looks RS.

Is there a brand embossed on the rest of the keg? We can go by that as certain brands always use specific kegs.

It could be a destroyed Tooheys/coopers type, in which case the rest of the destroyed spear will unscrew once the locking lug is disengaged.

It could also be a destroyed Sankey.
 
It looks a lot like a (slightly chewed on) Euro Sanki.
The spear body should unscrew, if it only comes part way then the safety feature (designed to prevent people doing exactly what we are doing) has engaged, you should be able to put a large screwdriver down and jiggle the safety lock, then finish unscrewing.

I have used a bit of 40X6 flat bar and a large shifter to open these in the past, I think it catches on the two lugs.

Hope you don't want to uses it as a keg, I think it might be past that.
Mark
 
Thanks for all the replies, sorry have been away for work and not looked at the keg since the weekend...

blair said:
That looks like an S type keg (sanke keg) - search for "how to open an asahi type keg" and that should help (I'd link it but on phone atm). Basically you depress the centre pin and unscrew the spear, having a coupler makes it much easier.

Edit: correct coupler
Cheers, yeah I figured that was the general process but without the centre valve/rubber in place I'm not entirely sure about this. I get the feeling there are lugs around the thread at the top, there doesn't appear to be anything inside the spear that would be able to release it further down.

Yob said:
failing all that.. one of these will work for sure

attachicon.gif
2016-06-19_22-16-06.jpg
Thanks Yob, as a last resort I'll use this to cut the top off but at the moment I'm still optimistic that I can save the top coupling to have a triclover drain when I invert the keg and use it as a fermenter.

mtb said:
Problem is - it doesn't look like the centre pin is actually in the spear, according to the photo
That's right :/

wynnum1 said:
Is that a small keg .
The previous owner may have damaged it beyond repair.
Yes, it is a small keg, and I am beginning to think the same thing :/

klangers said:
Doesn't look like the spear/dip tube is there anymore. I agree with wynnum. Looks RS.

Is there a brand embossed on the rest of the keg? We can go by that as certain brands always use specific kegs.

It could be a destroyed Tooheys/coopers type, in which case the rest of the destroyed spear will unscrew once the locking lug is disengaged.

It could also be a destroyed Sankey.
I missed it originally as there is duct tape all over this keg (no idea why) - the brand is DB.

MHB said:
It looks a lot like a (slightly chewed on) Euro Sanki.
The spear body should unscrew, if it only comes part way then the safety feature (designed to prevent people doing exactly what we are doing) has engaged, you should be able to put a large screwdriver down and jiggle the safety lock, then finish unscrewing.

I have used a bit of 40X6 flat bar and a large shifter to open these in the past, I think it catches on the two lugs.

Hope you don't want to uses it as a keg, I think it might be past that.
Mark
Thanks Mark, I don't wish to use the keg with spear in it, I was hoping to invert for use as a fermenter.

I suspect you are correct that the safety feature is the issue, as the spear will only rotate about 1cm in either direction from centre. On Sunday I actually ground the edges off a piece of flat bar to use as a large flat-blade screwdriver that can rotate it back and forth with ease - so the initial part of the thread shouldn't be an issue. The problem is I think the safety feature is jammed as for all my efforts levering the lugs (as in Maheel's video) I cannot raise the spear at all.


I won't be back in the shed until Friday night, will pour a beer and start from step 1 again to try and see if I have more success. I'd like to think I've exhausted all options before resorting to a grinder...
 
Thanks to all the advice provided here I'm quite confident this is a European Sanke coupler now. I am able to slightly move the top of the coupler clockwise and anti-clockwise (less than 2cm each direction), but no matter what I try with screwdrivers I can't lever up either of the lateral lugs.

Will see if I can source a longer screwdriver tomorrow to increase the length of my lever, but failing the success of that I think the inverted fermenter idea will be shelved and the top cut out to make a standard bucket-style...
 
It may as well be cut it off neatly with a grinder and a thin cut off disc, then get the fitting you want welded on.
If you get it undone, you'll be left with an oddball internal thread that you wont be able to use, and will need to get the fitting welded on anyway.

I recently modified 5 kegs for a winery, making mini stainless wine barrels, by cutting the spear and coupler out and welding on 2 x 2" bsm fittings, one where the coupler was and one halfway up. (they use them laying on their sides)

The bits are still laying under the workbench, I'll get some photos when I go back to work next week so you can see how these came apart.
There was a couple of different types of keg but they look similar to yours.

From memory, basically the inner bit of the coupler unscrews from the neck, but there is a little locking tab in there that you can get to from behind once you cut it off :]
 
Sorry if I've missed someone else mentioning it but please de-pressurise (outside) first.
 
He doesn't have to worry about that manticle, someone's been kind enough to remove the spear for him already ;)
 
Some progress today as I've determined that I can use a 7/8" spanner pushed into the spear and depress the lower sprung section. By doing this I can just see the top of the internal thread - confirming it to be a Euro Sanke but so far can't get around the locking pin...

kofo500 said:
It may as well be cut it off neatly with a grinder and a thin cut off disc, then get the fitting you want welded on.
If you get it undone, you'll be left with an oddball internal thread that you wont be able to use, and will need to get the fitting welded on anyway.

I recently modified 5 kegs for a winery, making mini stainless wine barrels, by cutting the spear and coupler out and welding on 2 x 2" bsm fittings, one where the coupler was and one halfway up. (they use them laying on their sides)

The bits are still laying under the workbench, I'll get some photos when I go back to work next week so you can see how these came apart.
There was a couple of different types of keg but they look similar to yours.

From memory, basically the inner bit of the coupler unscrews from the neck, but there is a little locking tab in there that you can get to from behind once you cut it off :]
I'd really appreciate some photos if you could share them, as it's trying to navigate that locking tab that is the difference between a locked spear and a vessel ready to use as my fermenter :)

Thanks for the suggestions, however if the spear is removable I don't need to worry about welding (and the sanitary implications) as I can simply use a triclover fitting.

Cheers
 
Sort of an all else fails, you might be able to go down the middle with a step drill or an engineering hole saw and cut the bottom out of the spear mounting.
Be careful there might be some spring tension and you don't want a spear in the cranium!
Mark
 
if its like some of mine that are Guinness kegs you might need to have the coupler inserted to remove the spear. as they screw out after the retaining ring is removed (custom made removal tool) if it doesn't come out id suggest you try lifting it if its loose and turning at the same time as there may be a locating lug that stops it from coming out and will only allow it out from one position.
hope this info helps
 
Might help - picture is of an stype spear but i assume they're all pretty much the same. Not sure if you can see it but the locking ring/tab locates into the slots around the bottom of the spearhead preventing it from being removed. If you could flatten out the tab the spear should unscrew.

1467071581246.jpg
 

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