What Did I Do Wrong?

[RobNewy]

Hi all,
I'm not sure what happened here but help would be appreciated.
I Tried to brew a Krackenback Pale Ale using Morgans Stockmans Draught, 1kg of light malt and 2 hop bags of 30g, Cascade, Simcoe and Amarillo.
After 9 days The SG hadn't budged from 1020, although we did have a cold snap.
Went back to my supplier and bought a Saflager W-34/70 yeast to make it happen. Chucked it all in the fridge at around 9 - 12 deg but the new yeast failed to fire after another 10 days.
So in the end i binned it.
Any ideas of what not to do next time.???
Cheers peeps
Rob

 

[JaffaMan]

What was the O.G at the start?

I usually get faily high S.G readings with my extract brews through the winter.

 

[manticle]

1. Don't bin it.

The only reason to bin is if the resulting brew is infected or equally horrible tasting.

2. That sounds too cold for a pale ale. Was it really a lager (specifically a lager yeast?)

 

[Phoney]

Why on earth would you bin a beer that's finished at 1020? Ive bottled plenty of brews that have finished even higher ( eg 1022) and they've turned out beautiful.

But in short, what cab make your gravity stop can be cool temperatures, or the presence of unfermentable sugars (like light malt to an extent)- the latter isnt a bad thing so long as you balance the sweetness with bitterness using hops.

 

[roverfj1200]

Very hard to say what went wrong but I would have lifted the temp first to see if it fired up say 20deg.

Was 1020 your starting SG, ? ? ?

If pitching dry yeast at 12deg 2 packets would be better. Rehydrate the yeast even better. Starter even better.

 

[manticle]

2. That sounds too cold for a pale ale. Was it really a lager (specifically a lager yeast?)

Sorry just re-read - the second yeast was saflager (a lager yeast).

What was the first and what were your ferment temps the first time?

As mentioned 1020 is not without the realms of possibility and is certainly not a chuckable offence. I had a big stout (OG 1090+) finish at 1038 and it tasted superb.


Next time try warming it up a little and giving it a gentle swirl. Repitching can work but try that first.

Also depends on your OG and expected FG but essentially you have just wasted beer.

To add to my first statement - the other reason to bin a brew is if it has lead or broken glass in it. The only brew I've ever chucked contained bits of my hydrometer.

 

[raven19]

Next time try warming it up a little and giving it a gentle swirl. Repitching can work but try that first.

+1 or rack to a secondary fermenter.

 

[JaffaMan]

Whoa 1038, ha thats where most basic extract kits start around. (1038-1044).

 

[manticle]

Sat at 1038 despite everything (warming, swirling waiting, repitching) for about 4 or 5 weeks. There were a lot of unfermentable things in the brew (lactose, lots of malt) and it was only 18 L. Ended up tasting fantastic (even my lady love wanted more).

 

[RobNewy]

Thanks for your help guys, I'll have a look through my info when I get home but I'm pretty sure the start SG was 1037 or so.
Sounds like I shouldnt have binned it..............................
Again, much appreciated

 

[Bribie G]

You might want to check your hydrometer as well. If it's a cheapy with a paper insert scale sometimes they can 'slip' and give a false reading, check it with pure cold water.

 

[Leigh]

Not sure where you are from, but in the cooler months down here it usually takes my ales 4-7 days to get down to 1020 and then another 7-14 days to get down to 1007-1014 depending on what it is I'm brewing.

 

[petesbrew]

Thanks for your help guys, I'll have a look through my info when I get home but I'm pretty sure the start SG was 1037 or so.
Sounds like I shouldnt have binned it..............................
Again, much appreciated

I just cried when I read you binned it.

Taste that bloody hydrometer before you even consider binning it.
If it tastes good, just keep waiting.

 

[RobNewy]

I just cried when I read you binned it.

Taste that bloody hydrometer before you even consider binning it.
If it tastes good, just keep waiting.

I'm an idiot I know :unsure:

 

[RobNewy]

You might want to check your hydrometer as well. If it's a cheapy with a paper insert scale sometimes they can 'slip' and give a false reading, check it with pure cold water.

It is a cheap nasty hydrometer and it has slipped but I check it with cold water before i do anything and ten just add orsubtract as neccesary.
I assumed you could only get cheapy's. Were do you get a decent one from??

 

[Interloper]

I just cried when I read you binned it.

Same, unless there was white fungus/algae bloom growing on a brew I wouldn't chuck it...and even then I would have a sip to see if it was salvagable!

PS: Edit - even if it was drinkable but disgusting I would force my self to drink it as a lesson not to screw up next time.

 

[petesbrew]

Same, unless there was white fungus/algae bloom growing on a brew I wouldn't chuck it...and even then I would have a sip to see if it was salvagable!

PS: Edit - even if it was drinkable but disgusting I would force my self to drink it as a lesson not to screw up next time.

Yes, I have bottled MANY of those beers.
I force myself to drink some, but after a while I crack one open, taste it, think "NAH!" and tip it.... happily thinking, "I'm freeing up bottles for a GOOD Beer"

 

[Phoney]

Say while were on the subject of binning, ive got a batch that's been bottled for 4 weeks now and it tastes very "yeasty" not very pleasant drinking at all. It finished at 1012 (from 1052) - Ive never had this before, will the yeast flavour dissipate in the next few months or should I just force myself to drink it & free up the bottles?

 

[flattop]

Yes it will improve, but you didn't mention the type of kit or yeast.
I did a number of Cerveza's and in my opinion they need about 6-8 weeks to really improve and longer to come really good.
I did a number of batches last year and worked really hard to get rid of the yeast taste, in the end a decent yeast and time will heal most ill's

 

[Phoney]

Sorry it was a CPA recultured yeast..