Water Report In Mg/l, Not Ppm

[iralosavic]

Keeping it simple to make almost ANY beer regardless of colour.

For Malty beers
3g CaSO4 in mash
6g CaCl2 in kettle

For Hoppy beers
3g CaCl2 in mash
6g CaSO4 in kettle

The buffering capacity of the pale malt will keep the pH down in an acceptable range in majority of instances. From my experiences, its very hard to end up with a high or low mash pH outside of "normal" ranges. Also with the smidge of alkalinity you already have it should be acceptable for almost all beer styles. Don't be fearful of attempting to brew beers with 100% Pilsner Malt. As long as you add some calcium you will have a good enough security blanket. IMO, calcium is essential to make good beer consistently and its so simple to do.

These additions will cover sufficient Calcium required for enzyme activity 50ppm~ and will hit an upper range of around 80-100ppm Ca on your final post boil volume.

The post-boil malty/hoppy So4 to Cl ratios

Hoppy= SO4:Cl = 2:1
Malty Cl:SO4 = 2:1

perfect for 80%~ of beer styles. As for a bohemian Pilsner, simply add 3g CaCl2 and omit the kettle addition. Happy days. :icon_cheers:

Were you basing this on Melbourne water? I've been putting this data in the ez water calculator and your suggestion for malty beer is under 30ppm for calcium in the mash. I understand Melbourne water is more calcium rich than mine...

Can you please clarify why you would split the gypsum and calc chloride between the mash and the boil? The mash pH would benefit from the entire lot being added at once, from what the calculator demonstrates. I hear what you're saying re there being no need for concern for ph in normal circumstances, but it makes more sense to me to add all pH lowering additions at the mash, as it's always better to be more acidic than basic.



Cheers

 

[Fourstar]

Were you basing this on Melbourne water? I've been putting this data in the ez water calculator and your suggestion for malty beer is under 30ppm for calcium in the mash. I understand Melbourne water is more calcium rich than mine...

Incorrect, if you set the volume to your mash volume (lets say 15 L for a 23L final vol batch) its roughly 65ppm with a starting base of 10ppm. Yes this is for Melbourne water.

Can you please clarify why you would split the gypsum and calc chloride between the mash and the boil? The mash pH would benefit from the entire lot being added at once, from what the calculator demonstrates. I hear what you're saying re there being no need for concern for ph in normal circumstances, but it makes more sense to me to add all pH lowering additions at the mash, as it's always better to be more acidic than basic.

Carry over of minerals is not guaranteed from mash to kettle, they don't all dissolve. Also for repeatability and i don't want 150ppm of calcium, not to mention all of my other minerals at my full mash volume.

Also calcium or sulfate only has so much buffering power and adding tablespoons of the stuff isn't always going to help your concerns with pH. As noted, the only real way to know when and how to add salts to effect pH is to take a pH reading. For the purpose of my responses earlier, this is to give you some of the enzymatic benefits of adding calcium to the mash with the main outcome for the whole exercise (adding the second salt to the mash) being flavour adjustments to your water. By not focusing on the effect it has on pH (This is why i say stay away from carbonates) to avoid a lot of the 'arm waving' these calculators throw into the mix.

Either way, make the decision for yourself. If you feel comfortable throwing it all into the mash, do it. Personally I don't and prefer not to screw with my mash water too much. Calcium is all it needs for 90% of cases so it give it all it requires, nothing more.

Also, i have been doing this for close to 100 batches, i don't plan on changing my process now unless someone can convince me a good reason otherwise.

 

[iralosavic]

Thanks for taking the time to reply, mate. I BIAB, so my mash volume is around 26L. With my water having .9ppm calcium and the disparity of your assumed and my actual mash volume, our different results are no longer a mystery.

For the record, I haven't been questioning your methods or challenging your reasoning. I'm a noob and you have my respect. I simply strive to understand the WHY so that I am not just being a sheep. Your answers have been very helpful and have left me with no desire to branch off and do things differently.

I may still do some pH testing purely for my own education, but I'm glad you clarified the mash vs boil question as your method certainly makes sense and will be of great benefit to me. Cheers