Variable wattage controller?

[trq]

I have a herms system with a 2200w in my HLT which I currently control manually by simply turning the element off/on at the wall to try and maintain something close to temperature. I let it get my HLT up to temp, then turn it off, let it drop a few degrees then turn it back etc etc. It's not ideal obviously, but at this stage it is all I have.

My question, relates to, if this is possible (without blowing me or my element/house up), not so much about the level of control.

My idea is to put get one of these (or something similar):

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-220V...OSwxbJZhWN6:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!2257!AU!-1

My question is, will this work? I understand control still wont be great, but I imagine it would still be better than what I have.

If it matters, my element is one of these:

https://www.keg-king.com.au/catalog/product/view/id/71/s/2200-watt-stainless-steel-heating-element/

Any help/advice much appreciated, thanks.

 

[MHB]

Yes but its a Voltage controller - not a Watt controller, Watts = Volts X Amps, so by reducing the Volts the wattage goes down...
Wouldn't be easier to just wire up a thermostat (STC 1000 or similar), set the temperature you want and leave it alone.
Mark

 

[adoom]

I’m using more or less the same thing. Works a treat!
I have found that to start a boil I do need to connect my element direct to the power board as the internal resistance even turned to 100% is too high. It’ll get there, but just takes longer.

Mine has been hacked by my friendly sparky to have the output the same as the element lead so I’m not tempted to plug anything else into it, and fix the fact the the case was not earthed.

Keep in mind that the metal case may not be earthed and is completely open to any liquids that may want to enter.

 

[trq]

Thanks guys.

> Wouldn't be easier to just wire up a thermostat (STC 1000 or similar), set the temperature you want and leave it alone.

Maybe if I was a sparky, but I'm not. No idea how to get that done.

> I have found that to start a boil I do need to connect my element direct to the power board as the internal resistance even turned to 100% is too high. It’ll get there, but just takes longer.

This is just for my HLT, my boil kettle is completely separate, and won't be using this controller.

 

[tugger]

You need a fridge controller with heating and cooling.
They can handle 10a and will hold a preset temperature setting.

They have 240v plugs on the back.
It’s basic plug and play.

 

[trq]

I've gone through a few of those (one kegking^ and an inkbird) heating my HLT. I'm not sure they can actually handle the amps can they?

 

[MHB]

Some can, last time I brought some on eBay were were 30A versions available for about $2-3 more so bit of a no brainer!
Mark

 

[altone]

Some can, last time I brought some on eBay were were 30A versions available for about $2-3 more so bit of a no brainer!
Mark

Err so better than the inkbird ones and all the STC1000 stuff?
Care to give me a linky? need to get a couple soon.

 

[MHB]

Went to eBay and searched for STC 1000 30A and the first one to pop up was this
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital...01:m:mV90TaPqxwnIppRNS0JVcOg&var=581911155967

Wasn't real hard! Mark

 

[Wobbly74]

I used a plain Jane 10a stc-1000 without any dramas on a 2200w element for about a year. I'd imagine an itc-308 would work just fine?

 

[trq]

Hmmm, I have an ITC-308 on my fermentation chamber at the moment and another in the cupboard that no longer works on the hot side. It actually stopped working on the hot side the last time used it on my HLT. It really struggled to get to temp, and eventually I unplugged it. It's not worked at all on the hot side since, so I kinda just assumed it didn't like it and haven't been willing to try it again with the new one.

I might give it a go again next brew, but it's a bit of a worry. Wish I knew more about this stuff.

I have ordered on of these manual voltage controllers anyway now... so I might just have some testing to do.

Thanks guys.

 

[Dubzie]

If your burning through the 10a STC-1000
Might be worth getting a 20a AC-AC SSR and getting your sparkey mate to wire it up for you.
EBAY Link