Uxcell Elements...

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It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.

Hi Malted,
That's not how it works I'm afraid.

The 'constant' is the resistance of the element not the current it draws. An element that draws 15A at 240V has a power rating of 3600W... from a combination of Ohms Law (V=I*R) & the Power Law (P=I*V) we can calculate the resistance as 16 ohms, which is - more-or-less - constant.

So say you only have a 10A max supply, you can then calculate the maximum supply voltage to the element so as not to exceed that current.

I=10A
R=16Ω
V= what we need to know

V=10*16 = 160V

So with an AC voltmeter across the element terminals you wind up your do-hicky until you reach 160V. Note the position of your do-hicky knob as this is the maximum setting for that specific element not to exceed 10A current draw from your socket/supply. You'll be using 1600W btw.

As a practical example... I have ordered 2 x 2kW elements for my keggle. In the UK our max current is 13A per supply ring and we're still basically running @ 240V despite the Euro-bollocks. So I could connect each element to a separate supply, say, one on the dedicated leccy cooker ring and the other on the down-stairs sockets ring and I would have a total 4kW of heating power. Or, I could connect one element direct to my 13A supply (it will draw approx. 8.3A) and the other thro a do-hicky - on the same supply - and limit it to 4.7A. Combined they will draw the 13A maximum.

The upshot being that I can have either 2kW (one element connected), 3kw (one element direct & one variable) or 4kW (both elements connected on separate supplies) depending upon how much heating power I require for batch size, boil control, whatever.

Caveat: This is all in theory. Don't mess with stuff you don't understand especially if it can lead to your death or your house burning down. Always consult a qualified person, etc.


Edit: to add warning.
 
I don't understand why you would use this do-hicky.

It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.

If you're running it on a 15 amp circuit then why the do-hicky? Is it just used as a temperature controller type of do-hicky to regulate it's heating potential (like a temperature dial on an urn)??

Yeah I am using it on a 15amp circuit to throttle back the 3600W element in my kettle. I didnt read the entire thread, just assumed you guys were looking for some form of element voltage control and I figured this was simpler than the method being discussed. Sorry if I was off track.
 
Yeah I am using it on a 15amp circuit to throttle back the 3600W element in my kettle. I didnt read the entire thread, just assumed you guys were looking for some form of element voltage control and I figured this was simpler than the method being discussed. Sorry if I was off track.

Mate it was probably me who was off track. It is all good discussion.
 
My 2.5kw element arrived from uxcell yesterday, seems like a solid unit
I plan to hook it up through a die cast box as per Kev's and adding a voltage regulator
 
so I installed the 2.5kw spiral element into the wall of my keggle, without the die cast box & wiring, just to see how well it fit on the curved surface

I went to remove the element & realised I've cross threaded one side of it..

cross_thread.jpg

I'm a bit spewin coz now I can't undo the nut, believe me I tried. Even more spewin coz I just upgraded to a 70L s/s pot that planned on installing this element in, with a 2nd one that's on it's way from Uxcell right now

might be back to the drawing board as fas as my choice of element goes
 
cut the nut off with a dremal or hacksaw slowly

the thread looks "ok" for now

then buy some better nuts.....are the ones on there square ?
 
so I installed the 2.5kw spiral element into the wall of my keggle, without the die cast box & wiring, just to see how well it fit on the curved surface

I went to remove the element & realised I've cross threaded one side of it..

View attachment 56081

I'm a bit spewin coz now I can't undo the nut, believe me I tried. Even more spewin coz I just upgraded to a 70L s/s pot that planned on installing this element in, with a 2nd one that's on it's way from Uxcell right now

might be back to the drawing board as fas as my choice of element goes

Mate, I would say you will be fine with the 70L pot install with the 2nd element.... just dont cross thread the nut! :p

That said, I have read about some success with these bad boys...

Also, Punkin [A Member here, has some elements that dont explode ;) ]

3.14519... pies.
 
Maheel, the nuts are hex but very cheap & rounded quite easily after an hour or so of me trying to remove it. I've been looking for an excuse to buy a Dremel

Cocko, I wanna use 2 elements, so hopefully I can salvage this one & use it with the one that's in the mail. Thinking about installing both of them in the bottom of the pot so they're mounted to a flat surface. Only issue with that is they're 100mm high from the base of the pot
 
Cocko, I wanna use 2 elements, so hopefully I can salvage this one & use it with the one that's in the mail. Thinking about installing both of them in the bottom of the pot so they're mounted to a flat surface. Only issue with that is they're 100mm high from the base of the pot

Hopefully you can save it mate... I guess the only chance, if you can't undo it is, cut it off and dress the thread with a thread file or re-tap it.. or take to a engineer and see what they can do for you maybe... no easy solution I can see, others may know better.

What is the issue with the 100mm from the base?
 
I reckon my main issue is that if I choose to go with these elements then I'm kinda stuck with them coz of the specific hole diameter & spacing. On the plus side they're only $20 each

to add insult to injury, I also now have an unused Keg King element that I bought from a different retailer so thought I was safe from the problems I read about in the thread

elements.jpg

one element I can't remove and another I can't use. :angry:
 
This thread couldn't have hit my radar at a more opportune time, two 2kw U shapes ordered.
Thanks to all
 
so I installed the 2.5kw spiral element into the wall of my keggle, without the die cast box & wiring, just to see how well it fit on the curved surface

I went to remove the element & realised I've cross threaded one side of it..

View attachment 56081

I'm a bit spewin coz now I can't undo the nut, believe me I tried. Even more spewin coz I just upgraded to a 70L s/s pot that planned on installing this element in, with a 2nd one that's on it's way from Uxcell right now

might be back to the drawing board as fas as my choice of element goes


Was it cross threaded when you did it up? ie did you need to do it up with a spanner, or could you do it by hand?

Is there a reason you bolted it horizontally across the pot and not vertically. I've put all of mine in vertically to minimise the pots wall curvature on them, and have bolted them pretty tight. I wonder if doing it up against the curve of the pot, being horizontally and without the diecast box in place has cause the issue by pulling the nut on the angle of the pots sidewall?


QldKev
 
Was it cross threaded when you did it up? ie did you need to do it up with a spanner, or could you do it by hand?

Is there a reason you bolted it horizontally across the pot and not vertically. I've put all of mine in vertically to minimise the pots wall curvature on them, and have bolted them pretty tight. I wonder if doing it up against the curve of the pot, being horizontally and without the diecast box in place has cause the issue by pulling the nut on the angle of the pots sidewall?


QldKev

Yeah, needed to use a spanner and am probably to blame for cross threading it. In hindsight I should've mounted them vertically. Ah well, ya live n learn
 
Yeah, needed to use a spanner and am probably to blame for cross threading it. In hindsight I should've mounted them vertically. Ah well, ya live n learn


It's probably good news for you at least, you should be ok to use the other element in the new pot.
 
reckon your gonna have to drop the $21 and see what they come like .

it's a strange looking mounting plate on it

yeah i was wondering if it could be mounted into a 3" triclamp ferrule & rig up something like Punkin's element guard....

Thanks Wort, but want a more permanent / safe solution.
 
yeah i was wondering if it could be mounted into a 3" triclamp ferrule & rig up something like Punkin's element guard....

for the price you might just be better going the 1" screw in.
at least you know they work and can get parts easy. (and use Punkins mount / guard thing)

because if you weld on 3" triclover flange then you have a 3" hole in your boiler...
 

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