Uxcell Elements...

[Wolfy]

Is there any problem running the 2500W 220V element on a standard 240V? Will it shorten it's life or is it really a non-issue?

Also 2500W on 220v = ~12Amps I'll take a wild guess this will trip a standard 10Amp circuit?

According to Wiki, we actually run 230V now:
"As of 2000, the mains supply voltage specified in AS 60038 is 230 V with a tolerance of +10% -6%.[4] This was done for voltage harmonisation - however 240 V is within tolerance and is commonly found. Mains voltage is still popularly referred to as being "two-forty volts".
Most all standard kettle-elements are actually marked with volt/watt, which from memory (my element is stuck inside a container now) is 220-240V.

 

[seemax]

I run a 2200W element, laptop, big fluro lights, speakers, keezer, heating lamp and the odd power tool all off the same 10A circuit.

She'll be right lol

 

[QldKev]

According to Wiki, we actually run 230V now:
"As of 2000, the mains supply voltage specified in AS 60038 is 230 V with a tolerance of +10% -6%.[4] This was done for voltage harmonisation - however 240 V is within tolerance and is commonly found. Mains voltage is still popularly referred to as being "two-forty volts".
Most all standard kettle-elements are actually marked with volt/watt, which from memory (my element is stuck inside a container now) is 220-240V.

I though my power voltage was down when I tested it at 232v, but this makes it sound more on the mark.

QldKev

 

[glenwal]

I run a 2200W element, laptop, big fluro lights, speakers, keezer, heating lamp and the odd power tool all off the same 10A circuit.

She'll be right lol

A circuit and a GPO (power point) are two different things. You don't actually have 10A circuits in your house, the breaker will be at least 16A. The house wiring is also designed to handle > 16A so that the breaker is the "weak" link and trips before the wiring melts and burns your house down. If you are running all those things from different powerpoints on the same circuit, then there isn't a problem - and you've probably actually never had all of them draw current at the same time (your keezer will be on a thermostat and running at fridge temps wont be on very often - and how often do you use a power tool whilst brewing with your 2200W element?).

A standard GPO however is only rated to 10A. This is the reason using a large number of powerboards (or double adapters) can be dangerous. Appliances with a standard 10A plug can have a maximum rating of 2400W (ie. 10A), which means the most you will draw from a single GPO is 10A. Add in a double adapter or powerboard and you can eaisly excede the rating of the GPO.

The problem with going over the 10A is that you won't trip the breaker. If it was a burst current (like the startup on a fridge or air con unit) then it wouldn't be anything to worry about. For a sustained draw though (and for an element is a very long time - say 90 min boil + 20min ramp up = near 2 hours) this is a very bad thing as the current will cause the outlet to heat up, and if you are drawing more than its rated for the heat can cause it to melt (see the keg king elements thread for examples of melted wiring). Now 12A probably won't be a problem (after all, a 10A GPO is rated to 10A, but realistically will be able to handle more), but the probably comes with a very big risk if a failure happens (ie. You can burn down your house and kill your self and your loved ones).

Now you may want to risk it - but if it was me, i'd either get a sparkie to install a 15A GPO (will need to be on a dedicated circuit) which also means you can go bigger if you want - or find a 2400W or less element to use.

 

[BlueSky]

Clueless/QldKev,
I do have a quick question for you guys please

Would you happen to know the diameter of the mounting flange for the 'U-Shaped Elements' (3kW double coil specifically)?

Cheers,
Steve

 

[QldKev]

Clueless/QldKev,
I do have a quick question for you guys please

Would you happen to know the diameter of the mounting flange for the 'U-Shaped Elements' (3kW double coil specifically)?

Cheers,
Steve

I'm not sure on the 3kw double coil, as I have only got the 2kw single u-bend ones. The 2kw u-bend are 24mm.

QldKev

 

[BlueSky]

Hi Kev,
Many thanks for the info.

Measured off the image - via computer screen & ruler, lol - I got the 3kW flanges to be about 27mm.

Not sure whether to go 1 x 3kW or 2 x 2kW in my keggle conversion :unsure:

Feck it, as Jeremy Clarkson says 'More Power!', so I'll order 2 x 2kW direct from Uxcell as I want the stainless flanges.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[QldKev]

I'm a more power man, I hate a soft boil. If you have the power to run the 2 x 2kw ones I would go that way. If it ends up boiling too hard for what you want throw one of these in line and drop it back to the desired boil level.

QldKev

 

[booargy]

Clueless/QldKev,
I do have a quick question for you guys please

Would you happen to know the diameter of the mounting flange for the 'U-Shaped Elements' (3kW double coil specifically)?

Cheers,
Steve

28mm and the thread is 18mm OD. They also have a 4kw version but 2x2kw would be easier to clean.

 

[BlueSky]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Well, I've just ordered the 2 x 2kW - like Kevs - from Uxcell.

I want to mount one as low as possible in the keg and that will be adjustable via one of the various circuits around (already have the potentiometer-controlled-SSR** to try). The other can be directly connected to another ring in the house until I move to the garage & upgrade the supply (13A max @ 240V (3kW) here in the UK for a single socket/circuit).

Cheers,
Steve


**

 

[kjparker]

I'm not sure on the 3kw double coil, as I have only got the 2kw single u-bend ones. The 2kw u-bend are 24mm.

QldKev

I just measured my 3kw one, and it's the same, and all stainless....

 

[kjparker]

Thanks for the replies guys!

Well, I've just ordered the 2 x 2kW - like Kevs - from Uxcell.

I want to mount one as low as possible in the keg and that will be adjustable via one of the various circuits around (already have the potentiometer-controlled-SSR** to try). The other can be directly connected to another ring in the house until I move to the garage & upgrade the supply (13A max @ 240V (3kW) here in the UK for a single socket/circuit).

Cheers,
Steve


**

I dont see how that's going to work. the ssr doesnt turn down the power, it turns it on or off

 

[BlueSky]

Hi Clueless,
Thanks for the flange size confirmation.

Re. the controller, basically, you can buy cheap, Chinese knock-off copies of the PSR-25 (PSR-25 .pdf)

Here's the thread I nicked the circuit off... 'Cheap Simple Voltage Controller'

Probably calling it an SSR is technically incorrect :unsure: but they seem to work.

 

[kjparker]

Hi Clueless,
Thanks for the flange size confirmation.

Re. the controller, basically, you can buy cheap, Chinese knock-off copies of the PSR-25 (PSR-25 .pdf)

Here's the thread I nicked the circuit off... 'Cheap Simple Voltage Controller'

Probably calling it an SSR is technically incorrect :unsure: but they seem to work.

interesting.

the links they gave to buy it are no longer working, but the "real " psr-25's i saw when googling are nothing like a regular ssr.

Got a link where you bought yours from?

 

[BlueSky]

Hi C.,
I got mine from Ebay... just do a search for 'resistance SSR' (set Location to Worldwide) and you should get 100's of listings.

Here's what I get for Ebay Oz & 25A... >>CLICKY<<

Same for Uxcell ...Google their site & then just search for 'resistance SSR' (their website won't let me link direct to it at all! )


Edit: links.

 

[JaseH]

If its just a simple voltage controller for the element you want, then use one of these.

Been working fine on my 3600W kettle element so far.

 

[kjparker]

My spiral element turned up today.

Nice and compact, just the thing for the heat exchanger. Feels fairly solid too

 

[Malted]

If its just a simple voltage controller for the element you want, then use one of these.

Been working fine on my 3600W kettle element so far.

I don't understand why you would use this do-hicky.

It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.

If you're running it on a 15 amp circuit then why the do-hicky? Is it just used as a temperature controller type of do-hicky to regulate it's heating potential (like a temperature dial on an urn)??

 

[kjparker]

I don't understand why you would use this do-hicky.

It seems that you are suggesting so that it can be used on a 10 amp circuit? I think I am wrong but am unsure.
So a 3600W element is 15 amps at 240 volts. So you 'dim' the voltage to 160 volts to run your 15 amp element at 2,400 watts? Is this how it works? I thought that this would still be an innapropriate amperage for a 10 amp circuit.

If you're running it on a 15 amp circuit then why the do-hicky? Is it just used as a temperature controller type of do-hicky to regulate it's heating potential (like a temperature dial on an urn)??

I think what he is referring to is that if the 3600w element has too much grunt, you can use that to turn it down.

Doesnt negate the requirement for the proper circuit

 

[kjparker]

No its not. I need to know if the nuts will also fit into the flat spot. A centre-to-centre measurement would not provide that, unless I also had the OD of the nuts on the threads.

It's approximately 60mm