To Bottle Or Not To Bottle

[DKS]

Hey Si, you can start using that fridge just as it is! Dead fridges plus regular changes of frozen bottles of water will make a significant improvement to your beers. Twice- daily changes at the height of summer, less- so at other times and generally none in winter, in fact sometimes a hot water bottle is needed. Stability rather than a particular temperature is important, the closer to 20C though, or slightly less if you can manage, then the better. If you can fix the fridge then that's cool too, hook up a Tempmate or similar controller and it is just happy days!

Oh, that's fine for ales I should add, doing lagers like this at 10-12C will be a real challenge in summer (ales are easily manageable at 18-20C though). I have both ale and lager fridges running at the moment, but I have an old surplus datalogger for a controller, it has capacity for eight fridges but I'm only using a pair for now, that's almost enough! I have yet another fridge in the wings...

An extra fermenter or three will make life so easy, the big green shed has excellent 25L water drums for less than twenty clams. Grab a tap, toss the lid, but before doing so, salvage the ring seal and use that to hold some cling film in place- no pesky air lock! If you're lucky, you might just squeeze four of them in the fridge like that too.

I second Screwy's sentiments, so get lazy and leave it in there for a while longer if you possibly can, then crash chill for the last few days. More fermenters will help in achieving this while helping to lift production to an acceptable level too. Sounds like you're getting the hang of it! :icon_cheers:

Siborg,
+ 1 , RdeVjun's advice is good.
Kegs are great but bottles are more flexable. In time, have both. You dont have to have the coopers type brown PET to start. Recycled tallies and/or soft drink bottles can be used to get you over the hump till you decide on keg or other. You may have seeen BribieG's pics on his Aldi cola bottles. If not check it out.Pic posted many times. They were so cheap I think he tipped the cola down the sink. (He wouldnt drink that stuff.)
Sounds like you are doing all the right things. Patience is hard. G'donya. Keep us posted on results. :icon_cheers:
Daz

 

[Siborg]

Hi Siborg,

As HARD as it is ..(we all know the anguish and eagerness to bottle it, so u can drink your creation) just wait. I'd say bottle it on friday earliest or just leave it for the weekend. You wont regret it. Use the force or something??

Friday?! That's just short of two weeks in the fermenter! I don't have access to a fridge where I can keep it cool like some have suggested. It's still out in my shed exposed to the weather. Should I rig up my towel/water system to keep it cool? Or just let it roll. Fermentation has definitely stopped. Got readings of 1.012 three days in a row.

I'm happy to leave it till friday if I can spare the cash to put another batch on in the mean time. I may have to go and grab some coopers pale ale as well (had some at the pub the other night... enjoyed more than ever).

Should I maybe buy a piece of hose and sanitise it and rack it to bulk prime? I was just reading up on that in the articles and was thinking I might try that next batch (I have bought carb drops already).

Thanks for the comments and advice guys... keep em coming!

 

[Jamieman]

In a similar dilemma myself.
Been brewing 1 kit & bits per week for bit over a year now & have finally gone to a fermenting fridge & decent yeast.
Never had an infection so i don't know what it tastes like.

Just checked the SG on my Black rock larger + dex/LDM mix + Hallertau T/Bag with W34/70 .
Been in the fermenter for 8 days @12 deg. Still bubbles every 30 sec or so.
SG came in at 1014 so not cooked yet.(Didn't take an OG)
Problem is it has a strange taste, soapy like. Almost unpleasant.
All other brews tasted from the hydrometer tube gave a fair indication of the end result.

No change to my sanitation regime. Only difference is it is in a fridge @ 12 deg instead of the 23-25 deg i have been struggling with this summer & using decent yeast.

Would these 2 things produce such a different taste.
Concerned about bottling.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jamieman]

Forgot, the only other thing different is this is the first time in a year i haven't re-hydrated the yeast prior to pitching.
Instructions on the packet said just sprinkle over the top which i did.
Airlock activity commenced at around 24hrs.

 

[Siborg]

Forgot, the only other thing different is this is the first time in a year i haven't re-hydrated the yeast prior to pitching.
Instructions on the packet said just sprinkle over the top which i did.
Airlock activity commenced at around 24hrs.

Jamie, I'm no expert so you probably know more about it than me. But if I were to take a stab, I'd say that it may be too cold and/or needs a longer fermentation at that temp. What temp range does the yeast instructions say to ferment at?

I wish I had a spare, working fridge that I can ferment in and control the temp like you... what temp range is your fridge capable of?

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious. I'm sure someone more experienced may have an idea of whats going on.

 

[Jamieman]

Jamie, I'm no expert so you probably know more about it than me. But if I were to take a stab, I'd say that it may be too cold and/or needs a longer fermentation at that temp. What temp range does the yeast instructions say to ferment at?

I wish I had a spare, working fridge that I can ferment in and control the temp like you... what temp range is your fridge capable of?

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious. I'm sure someone more experienced may have an idea of whats going on.

Temp is good for the yeast being a premium larger strain.
I'm thinking it's just not cooked yet.
Soapy taste put me off as i have never tasted that from my hydrometer tube before.
Given i still have minor airlock activity & my FG (looking for 1010 & down as a min) has not been reached, I'm hoping it is just an under done taste.

 

[rendo]

Jamie,

have u used real lager yeast before? If not, then it does let off a different smell. Did u notice an eggy type smell (sulphur) when brewing? This is normal for lager yeast.

see: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=31634

MAYBE this is the soapy taste?? Not that soap tastes like sulphur to me.....anyhow...my 5c

the egg smell can sometimes take 3-6 weeks to clear once bottled.

Temp is good for the yeast being a premium larger strain.
I'm thinking it's just not cooked yet.
Soapy taste put me off as i have never tasted that from my hydrometer tube before.
Given i still have minor airlock activity & my FG (looking for 1010 & down as a min) has not been reached, I'm hoping it is just an under done taste.

 

[Siborg]

So, to bring this back to topic...

Should I keep my finished brew till Friday AND keep it relatively cool? It is going to be warm all week and I don't want to spoil a good brew by letting it get too warm. What's it called when the yeast cells starts eating each other after they have depleted all nutrients? autolyse-something?

 

[stm]

Yeah, just leave it till friday (or the weekend) - two weeks in the fermenter is perfectly okay and will allow the yeast to clean up after itself, and more of the hops etc will drop out. Little risk of autolysis in this timeframe. And because the fermentation has virtually finished, it is not critical to keep it cool, so don't worry about that if it's too much hassle.

If you like, put another batch on in the meantime - your only additional cost is less than $20 at Bunnings for a 25L drum and a tap.

 

[Siborg]

Yeah, just leave it till friday (or the weekend) - two weeks in the fermenter is perfectly okay and will allow the yeast to clean up after itself, and more of the hops etc will drop out. Little risk of autolysis in this timeframe. And because the fermentation has virtually finished, it is not critical to keep it cool, so don't worry about that if it's too much hassle.

If you like, put another batch on in the meantime - your only additional cost is less than $20 at Bunnings for a 25L drum and a tap.

it's funny you say that. I just bought two with taps and a 2 meter hose for $40. I just need to get another kit. I'm thinking I might have two on at a time and use the other to bulk prime my brews. I'll use the hose I bought to rack one into the other.

 

[Jamieman]

Jamie,

have u used real lager yeast before? If not, then it does let off a different smell. Did u notice an eggy type smell (sulphur) when brewing? This is normal for lager yeast.

see: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=31634

MAYBE this is the soapy taste?? Not that soap tastes like sulphur to me.....anyhow...my 5c

the egg smell can sometimes take 3-6 weeks to clear once bottled.

Cheers man.
This is the first time i have used W34/70 yeast.
I think you are right.

 

[rendo]

Well done Siborg,

That is with regards to i) resisting the urge to bottle until fri or so. ii) getting another fermenter or two ....

My opinion is dont worry about bulk priming this time. Just put sugar or dex (either is just fine) in each bottle and whammo. Work your way up to bulk priming. Its really not that hard at all, but either way, dont feel that you need to bulk prime. I have done it many times and I really cant say its better than not bulk priming.

Beer brewing is a journey. Just change one or two things each time u brew, so u can see the difference it makes etc.

What bottles do you use?

it's funny you say that. I just bought two with taps and a 2 meter hose for $40. I just need to get another kit. I'm thinking I might have two on at a time and use the other to bulk prime my brews. I'll use the hose I bought to rack one into the other.

 

[Siborg]

Well done Siborg,

That is with regards to i) resisting the urge to bottle until fri or so. ii) getting another fermenter or two ....

My opinion is dont worry about bulk priming this time. Just put sugar or dex (either is just fine) in each bottle and whammo. Work your way up to bulk priming. Its really not that hard at all, but either way, dont feel that you need to bulk prime. I have done it many times and I really cant say its better than not bulk priming.

Beer brewing is a journey. Just change one or two things each time u brew, so u can see the difference it makes etc.

What bottles do you use?

Yeah, I already bought a pack of carb drops for the Pale Ale when I bought the kit, so I'm gonna do it that way. I'll probably try my next brew bulk priming, purely to see what difference it makes for myself and to say that I've done it.

Beer brewing is a journey. Just change one or two things each time u brew, so u can see the difference it makes etc.

Yeah, I've found it has been so far. Its a journey I definitely want to continue. Now I have these new fermenters, I'll be able to take a few more steps rather than waiting all the time.

What bottles do you use?

I've used the coopers PET bottles since they came with the initial kit, but my mum threw them out. I bought another lot from Big W when I did my "unreal ale" and I bought a set of the brewcraft ones (not that there's a diff) for my pale ale that I am eagerly awaiting, so I have 60 (more or less) of them now.

I have decided to stop being so stubborn and paranoid about glass bottles and start collecting stubbies. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who buys the larger bottles regularly, so it'll have to be the smaller ones.

All this talk of beer has made me thirsty! :chug:

 

[rendo]

Thirsty u say??

Yes me too. Here's cheers, beer for lunch (at home from work....on leave...so that means I should have more than one)

All this talk of beer has made me thirsty! :chug:

 

[Hatchy]

I'd recommend bulk priming. I haven't drunk any of the batch that I bulk primed so I can't talk about results but I did find it easier than using the pesky little fermentation drops.

To get my bottle supply up I stopped drinking tinnies (good start) & started buying cartons of Coopers longnecks. My brewery isn't at a point yet where I can get away from commercial beer. We had an Australia day party here & put on the invite that beer could only be brought in longnecks, we'll do the same for our housewarming. I've bottled in PET before & it works, I just don't like beer in plastic. I've bottled in stubbies but have decided that life's too short to bottle in stubbies. Most HB shops sell crown seal bottles, the ones I've seen haven't been 375ml or 750ml though so yr fermentation drops may not be the best idea for those. I've managed to collect about 20 dozen coopers longnecks in under a month since moving house.

 

[rendo]

Each to their own Hatchy, Dont get me wrong, I like bulk priming, but its pretty easy to drop 30/60 pellets, one/two per bottle, rather than get another fermenter, sanitise it, sanitise the hose, make up the sugar solution, transfer the brew, bottle, then have to wash two fermenters, hose, etc.

I mainly bulk prime when I am using odd sized bottles, but if its 750ml or 375ml the whole way, then bulk priming gets a miss..

Anyway, its personal choice.

I'd recommend bulk priming. I haven't drunk any of the batch that I bulk primed so I can't talk about results but I did find it easier than using the pesky little fermentation drops.

To get my bottle supply up I stopped drinking tinnies (good start) & started buying cartons of Coopers longnecks. My brewery isn't at a point yet where I can get away from commercial beer. We had an Australia day party here & put on the invite that beer could only be brought in longnecks, we'll do the same for our housewarming. I've bottled in PET before & it works, I just don't like beer in plastic. I've bottled in stubbies but have decided that life's too short to bottle in stubbies. Most HB shops sell crown seal bottles, the ones I've seen haven't been 375ml or 750ml though so yr fermentation drops may not be the best idea for those. I've managed to collect about 20 dozen coopers longnecks in under a month since moving house.

 

[Siborg]

So I just bottled this brew (see original post)

I found that it had cleared out nicely. There is still the occasional 'flake' of hops in there, but that should settle in the bottom of the bottle. I did the majority of them with the carbonation drops and a did 7 of them with white table sugar, to see if I can tell the difference. I took another sample and got the same reading as the start of the week and tasted that... I think if it carbs up right, it should be quite a nice beer.

I also put on another brew that I think is what is referred to as a 'partial' because it had a bag of cracked malt grain and a can of IPA extract and LME and a bag of wheat powder. I'll get more into it in the appropriate forum as I have a couple of questions re this brew.

 

[manticle]

I also put on another brew that I think is what is referred to as a 'partial' because it had a bag of cracked malt grain and a can of IPA extract and LME and a bag of wheat powder. I'll get more into it in the appropriate forum as I have a couple of questions re this brew.

If it's specialty grain (grain that has had its starches converted to sugars by kilning) then it's not a partial. A partial is short for partial mash and that's because a part of the sugars for the beer come from the grain and in order to do that the grain is mashed.

To simplify a bit though - mashing is essentially holding the cracked grain in water of a certain temperature for a certain amount of time. It sounds complicated and there are appropriate processes and precautions but it's not rocket surgery.

The addition of any grain to your brew, whether mashed or steeped will add a whole new dimension. The above sounds like it will make a tasty brew. Did you add any extra hops and what did you do with the grain?

 

[Siborg]

If it's specialty grain (grain that has had its starches converted to sugars by kilning) then it's not a partial. A partial is short for partial mash and that's because a part of the sugars for the beer come from the grain and in order to do that the grain is mashed.

To simplify a bit though - mashing is essentially holding the cracked grain in water of a certain temperature for a certain amount of time. It sounds complicated and there are appropriate processes and precautions but it's not rocket surgery.

The addition of any grain to your brew, whether mashed or steeped will add a whole new dimension. The above sounds like it will make a tasty brew. Did you add any extra hops and what did you do with the grain?

Hey
I was gonna post that in another forum, but what the hell, ey?

The grain was simmered for 20mins and then I added 15g oh saaz and another type (I can't remember the name). Then the whole lot was strained straight into the fermenter and the IPA kit and LME was added, then the dry wheat extract and topped up to 21L.

That mix of the grain and the hops smelt AWESOME. I rate it up there with the smell of cooking bacon and bread baking! Makes me want to move to AG. I've been reading alot more than I've been posting. The "BIAB for 30 bucks" sounds tempting.

 

[manticle]

I'm sure the beer will be great but next time just steep the grains in hot water, strain, rinse with hot water then boil the resulting liquid. 60 -70 degrees is a good rough guide. Steep for anything between 30 and 60 minutes.

If you boil/simmer them, you run the risk of extracting astringent tannins.

When you boil the liquid you can add hops at different points to impart bitterness, flavour and aroma. Earlier is bitterness, later is aroma with flavour sitting somewhere in between.

That smell only gets better as your grain bill gets better. Bread, bacon and beer. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm