Think I've Ruined My First Few Batches...

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v8manic

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Hey guys i think i may have ruined my first few batches of beer. They seem to have an odd taste to them when i have that first mouth full and have very little head about them. Think i may have pitched the yeast to early on some of the first batches like while temp was still high.

Any help would be great cause now have 5 batches done and don't want to ruin any more.
 
Hi Wade,
Where to start ... yes, fermenting your beer while it is too warm will produce different flavours. I'd guess though that its probably about the temperature of the beer for the first few days rather than the temperature of the beer when the yeast first goes in (depends where you live and how fast it continues to cool after the yeast is in. You might like to try to cool the fermenter using the old wet towel and fan method (just remember to keep wetting the towel regularly) You probably want to aim for a temperature around 20C

Next up, your lack of head retention. This is usually caused by doing exactly what the beer kit tells you to do. Its the sugar which is the culprit. It adds alcohol to your beer without adding flavour or head retention. The kit says to use it because its the cheapest way to get started. On the shelves of your local supermarket right next to the kits you should also find such products as brew enhancer and malto-dextrin or corn syrup. These are a small step up in quality. If you really want to see an improvment go to your local home brew shop and get a tin of liquid malt. While your there talk to the owner as he or she will be happy to help you (not only are they pleased to see more people brewing because its their hobby too, but they are also pleased to see a potential new customer ;-)

Anyway this just the most general sort of advice, if you want some real specifics, we need to know exactly what went into the recipies (coopers larger kit + sugar?) how it was bottled (glass or plastic, bulk prime or individual or keg) what you steralised with (bleach and hot water or idophor?) and if you can, what the off flavours tasted like. This page might help you idenffy the flavour howtobrew.com. A word of warning about that web site, its full of fantastic information, but trying to read it front to back without a background in chemistry can be a little intimidating.

Anyway, hope some of this helps. Good luck.

--
Mesa
 
ok ingrediants that went into the first one was 1 tin or Brewcraft Munich Lager, 1kg of brewblend no15. I stored it under my house in my little concrete floored store room and it seemed to stay around the 20-22C mark.
I just have a feeling i may have pitched the yeast while the wort was still up around the 38C mark instead of letting it cool down first(New brewer being bit to keen). After a week i racked it in to another fermenter and added the finnings. Just has a bit of a wine taste and smell about it thats all.
Next brew was a Black Rock Dry Lager it seems to hold the head a little longer but still nothing to write home about. It had 1kg of no10 brew enhancer in itand was racked after a week with the finnings added also.

Hope this info gives you guys a little more of an idea of what i may have done
Thanks Wade
 
Is the taste a "hot, alcoholic" taste?

Pitch at 20-22C next time and hold it at that temperature and it'll be much better.

I don't know what is in these brew blends, but most of them contain high proportions of sugars in them. Sugars ferment without leaving any "body" behind. This "body" is what is required to get head retention. The solution is to reduce the amount of sugar you use and use malt extract instead, which may be more expensive, but you get what you pay for in this case.
 
The winey flavour could be a slight infection.
The head retention issue could be related that.
Residual Detergent is bad too.

Here is a link that is super IMHO
Brewing

Somewhere in there is a thread about head retention
 
Yeah I don't trust those 'brew enhancer' packs either. Generally if I want to test a kits quality I'll make it up with ~650g light dried malt and 300g dextrose. I find this gives a good balance between malt character and final body - both are quite reasonable and result in a beer that has decent body whilst still being fairly easy to drink and refreshing on a hot afternoon.

Going further I just add some hops and a better yeast to the mix and call it beer.

Cheers - boingk
 
You would probably get funny flavours if it starts at 38 degrees! It may take a day to drop to 20 by which time that yeast may have already made some off flavours. I know my beers improved 10 fold once I kept the temp < 20.

One the day before brew day fill a large container, or cube, with water and put it in the fridge. Using that water instead of tap water will help lower the starting temp.

Cheers!
 
You would probably get funny flavours if it starts at 38 degrees! It may take a day to drop to 20 by which time that yeast may have already made some off flavours. I know my beers improved 10 fold once I kept the temp < 20.

One the day before brew day fill a large container, or cube, with water and put it in the fridge. Using that water instead of tap water will help lower the starting temp.

Cheers!

Could you just add some ice to bring the temp down?
 
Could you just add some ice to bring the temp down?

you could add Ice but I would do it by 3/4 filling a couple of pet brew bottles which have been sterilised before freezing and once again just before throwing them in the fermenter. This way you eliminate the risk of throwing an infection into the mix. Even though the temps in your freezer will inhibit the growth of most bacteria there are some that still thrive at that temp.

I personally try to avoid using sugar of any kind and avoid using cascade brew kits (long story envolving longwinded debates with fosters group.)

I think that home brewers should learn to brew with ales and stouts before attempting to brew lagers, as ales are a lot more tollerant to higher temps and fluctuations in temp. Also lagers should be brewed at 15 degrees c or less. Lagers will also produce a rotten egg gas smell if not matured long enough, I know that coopers reccomend leaving them in the bottle for 12 weeks before drinking. I have also noticed that if kit lagers are brewed at high temps the secondary fermentation can be slow to start and when it does start the head/foam can be rather dishwashing liquid suds like.

personally I would recommend that for a beginner to try brewing something like a coopers blonde ale if you want a sort of lagerish tasting beer. DONT waste your time on more expensive kits until you can get an acceptable beer from the less expensive kits. At the end of the day it is cheaper to throw down the sink if it doesn't work. When I say acceptable tasting I mean one that obviously doesnt taste off or smell sour or plastic like and is drinkable. Once this has been achieved and repeated then move on to things like adding hops to the mix to enhance the flavours and using things like maltodextrin and other adjuncts. also taste the beer as it is fermenting as if it is an infection you may be able to detect it early on. This will also give you a feel of what to expect when you brew in the future.

Another way that you can go, as you have obviously been to or live near a brew shop is to buy 3 kilos of malt extract, some hops and a packet of safale us 56 (which is now called s 05). You can ask about the flavour profiles of the hops you see at the shop. Personally I reccommend for beginners cascade and northern brewer. boil approx 50 to 60 grams of hops for half an hour in a sufficient amount of waterthen just put it all together as you would a kit brew. taste a small amount every day during fermentation, with this yeast fermentation should be complete within 10 days and may be even 7 days or less (check with a hydrometer and it is done when you get 2 readings the same over 2 consecutive days.) Dont leave the brew in the fermenter for longer than necessary. This should give a beer that when tasted during fermentation will taste like beer should. I recommend that particular yeast as the properties it exhibits are always consistent and reliable. Get to know the taste and smell, sniff the gas escaping from the gravity seal, it should smell nice not too sour or plastic like. If it does smell plastic like or extremely sour toss it and thoroughly sterilise your fermenter and equipment. you can use the coopers or brewcraft steriliser but you will find the likes of napi san will work just as well and are generally cheaper, Personally I just use the cheapest nappy sanitiser powder I can get that has a good concentration of sodium percarbonate. (I know I will cop flak from some stalwarts about that comment.)

Any way if you have any more questions you can PM me directly and I will try to help you out. Trav
 
Oh I also recommend putting sme wood or something between the fermenter and the concrete to insulate it.
 
Hey guys i think i may have ruined my first few batches of beer. They seem to have an odd taste to them when i have that first mouth full and have very little head about them. Think i may have pitched the yeast to early on some of the first batches like while temp was still high.

Any help would be great cause now have 5 batches done and don't want to ruin any more.

Firstly: welcome to the hobby. Secondly: good to see you found AHB. Thirdly: Ask three homebrewers a question and you'll get five different answers.

For better temperature control I would recommend a 100 Can cooler that you can get from Anaconda. Using 1.25L bottles 3/4 full of water and then frozen, you can accomplish pretty good temperature control.

Bringing the temperature down to around 20 to 25 degrees when pitching the cap yeast will also help. In order to help bring the initial temperature down, so that you can pitch soon after the mixing, you could get put some water in the fridge (in a sterile container, of course) and add that after the hot/boiling water you use to mix. Note that you will need a fair bit (at least 5 to 10 litres) to counter the heat.

Using malt, malt extract, "body brews" from HBS's, dextrose or other alternatives to white sugar will make for a better beer. Note that white sugar is fine for priming.

Also have a look at howtobrew.com and also search AHB for help. There is masses of information out there to assist new brewers.If you can't find what you are after then don't be afraid to ask. I find AHBers to be a pretty helpful lot.

EK.
 
No worries will try using pre-cooled water on my next brew the brew in at the moment i let cool right down to about 26c before adding the yeast. Been thinking about making myself a brew fridge since my uncle is a fridgie. Only thing though is he's talking about making a small coolroom to do what i want ie. one for each fermentor and a fridge to put kegs in.
 
No worries will try using pre-cooled water on my next brew the brew in at the moment i let cool right down to about 26c before adding the yeast. Been thinking about making myself a brew fridge since my uncle is a fridgie. Only thing though is he's talking about making a small coolroom to do what i want ie. one for each fermentor and a fridge to put kegs in.

Just remember that you will need a sterilised, food-grade container to chill it in.

EK.
 

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