The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread
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Quick Update - the thread topic title has been edited (Thx QldKev!) by our mod team to more accurately reflect the thread.
The following explanation has been added here and to the first post for new and potentially confused visitors:
Quote:
Ok, a quick recap for this thread for those who are new to it.
The thread started because someone was selling an original PCB kit that Matho was selling a while ago. The thread was titled ‘Bonjuino and Matho’s Controller $30’. The first half page or so of posts in this thread are about that.
Phase 2: The Thread Morphs: It turned out other people were looking for kits for Matho’s controller as well. Lael was looking for one and ended up organising to buy a set for people. Over time he did a bunch of kits. The second half of the first page of posts up to around page 22 are about that.
Phase 3: Lael decided to upgrade the kit and he is now organising a pre-built PCB kit. This includes a pre-built PCB, Arduino Mega, screws, nylon standoffs, button cables etc so you don’t need to solder at all, neutrik style power connectors, power supply, a pre-cut case, heatsink, SSRs (to allow controlling 2xheating elements), thermal paste, temp probe, buzzer. You will need to wire up the controller for 240v. Which means you will need to have it wired / certified by an electrician to ensure you don’t kill yourself. Page 23 – present are about the new kit and a list to add yourself to if you want to get in on the buy. At around page 35 it was decided to make the thread title more representative of the thread itself and this explanation was added to the first post.
Brief description of what the controller is for: (from: http://aussiehomebre...4#entry1197202)
[SIZE=10.5pt]It is a control kit called a Brauduino - commonly used for controlling a 1V recirculating system similar to a Braumeister. I've been thinking about how to improve the setup and make it more automated. I'll post that in another thread. The controller controls a pump and a heating source. How you configure that doesn't really matter. Realistically you could control up to a 2 vessel system (HLT and mashtun) with it. The logic and design isn't designed for a 3V at the moment, and the problem with trying to control a3v system is that people have to be ok with a single design - or change the code to suit themselves. To be honest... a lot of people move 'back' to a Brau style 1V from 3V for the convenience, great efficiency and ease of cleaning. There are not too many reasons I would consider going 3V.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Here is one system that someone has just completed: http://aussiehomebre...rrah-braumiser/http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81183-copper-and-jarrah-braumiser/[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Here is my system: http://aussiehomebre...-2#entry1118669http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/page-2#entry1118669[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]And this is what the completed controller from the kit I am organising will look like: http://aussiehomebre...21#entry1184680http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-bonjuino-and-mathos-controller-30/page-21#entry1184680[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]If you are having trouble with your matho's controller build – please post in: http://aussiehomebre...view=getnewpost [/SIZE]
If you would like to get on board and get a kit – add yourself to the list here: http://aussiehomebre...view=getnewpost
To be clear – this is all possible because of forum member - matho – who did an amazing job creating a brilliant brewing controller. Anyone who has one will tell you it is their best bit of brewing kit. The code has been further extended by MaxN68, to enable saving of recipes, cool timing features, iodine tests etc. If you get a chance – send a message of thanks to them!
original post - under the above explanation
The following explanation has been added here and to the first post for new and potentially confused visitors:
Quote:
Ok, a quick recap for this thread for those who are new to it.
The thread started because someone was selling an original PCB kit that Matho was selling a while ago. The thread was titled ‘Bonjuino and Matho’s Controller $30’. The first half page or so of posts in this thread are about that.
Phase 2: The Thread Morphs: It turned out other people were looking for kits for Matho’s controller as well. Lael was looking for one and ended up organising to buy a set for people. Over time he did a bunch of kits. The second half of the first page of posts up to around page 22 are about that.
Phase 3: Lael decided to upgrade the kit and he is now organising a pre-built PCB kit. This includes a pre-built PCB, Arduino Mega, screws, nylon standoffs, button cables etc so you don’t need to solder at all, neutrik style power connectors, power supply, a pre-cut case, heatsink, SSRs (to allow controlling 2xheating elements), thermal paste, temp probe, buzzer. You will need to wire up the controller for 240v. Which means you will need to have it wired / certified by an electrician to ensure you don’t kill yourself. Page 23 – present are about the new kit and a list to add yourself to if you want to get in on the buy. At around page 35 it was decided to make the thread title more representative of the thread itself and this explanation was added to the first post.
Brief description of what the controller is for: (from: http://aussiehomebre...4#entry1197202)
[SIZE=10.5pt]It is a control kit called a Brauduino - commonly used for controlling a 1V recirculating system similar to a Braumeister. I've been thinking about how to improve the setup and make it more automated. I'll post that in another thread. The controller controls a pump and a heating source. How you configure that doesn't really matter. Realistically you could control up to a 2 vessel system (HLT and mashtun) with it. The logic and design isn't designed for a 3V at the moment, and the problem with trying to control a3v system is that people have to be ok with a single design - or change the code to suit themselves. To be honest... a lot of people move 'back' to a Brau style 1V from 3V for the convenience, great efficiency and ease of cleaning. There are not too many reasons I would consider going 3V.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Here is one system that someone has just completed: http://aussiehomebre...rrah-braumiser/http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/81183-copper-and-jarrah-braumiser/[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]Here is my system: http://aussiehomebre...-2#entry1118669http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/page-2#entry1118669[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]And this is what the completed controller from the kit I am organising will look like: http://aussiehomebre...21#entry1184680http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/69155-bonjuino-and-mathos-controller-30/page-21#entry1184680[/SIZE]
[SIZE=10.5pt]If you are having trouble with your matho's controller build – please post in: http://aussiehomebre...view=getnewpost [/SIZE]
If you would like to get on board and get a kit – add yourself to the list here: http://aussiehomebre...view=getnewpost
To be clear – this is all possible because of forum member - matho – who did an amazing job creating a brilliant brewing controller. Anyone who has one will tell you it is their best bit of brewing kit. The code has been further extended by MaxN68, to enable saving of recipes, cool timing features, iodine tests etc. If you get a chance – send a message of thanks to them!
original post - under the above explanation
blotto
Well-Known Member
Are you just using the single screen lael? I have replaced my single on my "Original" controller with the double and its much nicer!
Edit: Whoops sorry I should have had a look, I see that your using the larger one.
Edit: Whoops sorry I should have had a look, I see that your using the larger one.
Hi Wort,
I've got about three controllers lol, plus the pcb you see there. Two are old school with the small box from Jaycar, one is with a 20x4 screen and a larger box with a clear lid. The 20x4 is much nicer to use. That said, to be honest, I use them interchangeably and don't have a preference really. The magic about the controller is the fact that I don't need to see it. Just program it and come back to it once it has done it's thing.
I've got about three controllers lol, plus the pcb you see there. Two are old school with the small box from Jaycar, one is with a 20x4 screen and a larger box with a clear lid. The 20x4 is much nicer to use. That said, to be honest, I use them interchangeably and don't have a preference really. The magic about the controller is the fact that I don't need to see it. Just program it and come back to it once it has done it's thing.
1. Lael (x2)
2. natdene
3. shaodw
4. gap
5. kingy
6. barneey
7. ArnieW
8. Putrino
9. Mitch_76
10. tateg
11. LiquidCurrency
12. rafinus
13. crazyhorse
14. marksy (x 2)
15. JB
16. Neo__04
17. Masters Brewery
18. Cervante
19. Cervantes
20. sipahono
21. BobCharlie
22. jubilakka
23. CoxR
24. Capnk
25. breakbeer
26. lael
27. marksy
28. micbrew
29. Screamadelica
30. pats
31. claypot
32. redlegger
33. pklakeside
34. lynchman
35. Bigbern
36. real_beer
37. gus the bus
38. Shaunous
39. jonasbegood
40. havebeer
41.Tassiehopper
42. jonasbegood
43. Misterwilson
44. jonnir
45. parktho
46. MrDave
47. Brutusb
48. Luisdepaula2001
49. tommy160
50. bigmacthepunker
51. nainsook
52. nainsook
53. moffatl
54. glen
55. kiwisika
56. sluggerdog
57. smokomark
58. SBOB
59. Marc280
60. Dug
61. rhart00
62. kezza (x3)
63. MitchD
64. camelbak28
65. 620rossco
66. Nick R
67. Cavemanbrew
68. Seemore
69. Eucyblues
70. Wort
71. Lluisdomene
72. Red Rocket
73. Seamad
74. captinsmash
75.fortmonty
76.
77.
78.
79.
80.
Hi guys I'll go in for one .
2. natdene
3. shaodw
4. gap
5. kingy
6. barneey
7. ArnieW
8. Putrino
9. Mitch_76
10. tateg
11. LiquidCurrency
12. rafinus
13. crazyhorse
14. marksy (x 2)
15. JB
16. Neo__04
17. Masters Brewery
18. Cervante
19. Cervantes
20. sipahono
21. BobCharlie
22. jubilakka
23. CoxR
24. Capnk
25. breakbeer
26. lael
27. marksy
28. micbrew
29. Screamadelica
30. pats
31. claypot
32. redlegger
33. pklakeside
34. lynchman
35. Bigbern
36. real_beer
37. gus the bus
38. Shaunous
39. jonasbegood
40. havebeer
41.Tassiehopper
42. jonasbegood
43. Misterwilson
44. jonnir
45. parktho
46. MrDave
47. Brutusb
48. Luisdepaula2001
49. tommy160
50. bigmacthepunker
51. nainsook
52. nainsook
53. moffatl
54. glen
55. kiwisika
56. sluggerdog
57. smokomark
58. SBOB
59. Marc280
60. Dug
61. rhart00
62. kezza (x3)
63. MitchD
64. camelbak28
65. 620rossco
66. Nick R
67. Cavemanbrew
68. Seemore
69. Eucyblues
70. Wort
71. Lluisdomene
72. Red Rocket
73. Seamad
74. captinsmash
75.fortmonty
76.
77.
78.
79.
80.
Hi guys I'll go in for one .
blotto
Well-Known Member
Too true mate these things just take the hard work out the brew day! I guess with the clear lid box you could go either way with little to no mods needed to the enclosure. Loving your work Lael!
sluggerdog
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So I was wondering about the power out ports. I am planning to run the heat source as my crown urn and the pump as a keg king magnetic pump, both have round 3 pin plugs on them. From a scroll though it looks like your setting up the ports with 3 pin square instead?
Is this correct?
If so how do I get around the round issue. I'd assume I wouldn't be the only one in the situation. I don't want to modify anything so I'm guessing an adapter or some sort.
Thanks
UPDATE: maybe it's a simple as a couple of travel adapters? e.g. http://www.dicksmith.com.au/printers-office/adaptors-power/travel-adaptors (I couldn't find the specific one needed but I'm sure it's out there)
Is this correct?
If so how do I get around the round issue. I'd assume I wouldn't be the only one in the situation. I don't want to modify anything so I'm guessing an adapter or some sort.
Thanks
UPDATE: maybe it's a simple as a couple of travel adapters? e.g. http://www.dicksmith.com.au/printers-office/adaptors-power/travel-adaptors (I couldn't find the specific one needed but I'm sure it's out there)
MastersBrewery
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Actually Lael I believe is going to be using a hybrid plug Neutrik, but he will be including both sides of the connector so all you would need to do is get a extension cable cut off the Male connector (input) and attach the one supplied with the kit. The reason I believe he went this way is these come as safe power in/ power out, with no exposed contacts, and your not able to cross inputs with outputs, they're also colour coded.sluggerdog said:
MB
sluggerdog
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Ok thanks, I think I understand. Once the kits come out I'm sure there will be photos of this floating around the forum if I have any issues / queries.MastersBrewery said:
Woohoo! PCBs arrived yesterday! Preliminary testing looks good - soldered a board up and buttons plug in nicely (so nice to simply push them together using the custom cables - anyone who soldered the buttons previously will know what I am talking about!) but... I am out of relays, so I've ordered some in from RS components, but they will take some time to arrive.
Is there anyone out there who has a controller wired up, system already working, and has experienced screen scrambling issues? (preferably in Sydney/close so if there is anything wrong I can come and see and check over it all).
Is there anyone out there who has a controller wired up, system already working, and has experienced screen scrambling issues? (preferably in Sydney/close so if there is anything wrong I can come and see and check over it all).
Ok, so it's not fully wired up yet, and is missing the pump relay, but I can confirm it registers buttons fine and can tell the temp 
Here are some pics for those that want to see what is going on:
The new pcb can accept a uno, a mega, or an arduino spark core (using a shield shield). Please note - there is NO code available that I am aware of to run the brauduino using the spark core. However, if someone wants to make the time, we now have the option of using wireless for something on the Brauduino (this is untested and should not be considered working at this stage - if you have experience with the spark core and want to port the code - PM me and I'll work out something for you).
It is a tight fit! but it just fits on. The pin out on the old pcb was the wrong for the buttons on the spark core shield shield. The voltage (5v) would also fry a couple of the ports on the spark core - there are three that take max 3.3v. There is a jumper on the pcb to switch the circuit to a different pin out for when you are using the spark core. That way both a normal arduino or the spark core can be used.
You can see the new pcb mounted on the box cover, with LEDs in place - they slide onto pcb headers using dupont headers (no soldering mission - check!).
You can see the micromatch has been replaced with easier and more reliable dupont terminals onto pcb headers and the custom cables have spade terminals that you push onto the buttons - so nice and simple! (It was seriously finicky trying to solder the tiny wires onto those buttons).
You will also notice there are no jumper wires - they've been replaced with pcb headers and (not shown as I don't have them yet - jumper / shunts to select 12v / 5v. I didn't get any answer on why there was JU1 on the original board... so it was left in... lol. also a jumper/shunt. (no soldering mission - complete! ).
The little empty sockets next to the cables are the zener diode holes, and the one underneath is the cap for across the 12v input to help reduce emi (screen scarmbling).
All working!
- Heat on
- summoning the death star - I mean, pump on. (seriously blinding, I'm getting lower brightness ones in the production version of the LEDs - glad I got samples of them both.
What the LEDs look like. If you come up with some other cool idea... like an LED rope around the inside of your box... you can unplug the single LEDs and plug something else onto the male pcb header pins.
There are some minor positioning changes to make, and testing to do, but I hope to order the pre-production prototypes from the PCB shop next week when China gets back from holiday.
Woohoo!
Here are some pics for those that want to see what is going on:
The new pcb can accept a uno, a mega, or an arduino spark core (using a shield shield). Please note - there is NO code available that I am aware of to run the brauduino using the spark core. However, if someone wants to make the time, we now have the option of using wireless for something on the Brauduino (this is untested and should not be considered working at this stage - if you have experience with the spark core and want to port the code - PM me and I'll work out something for you).
It is a tight fit! but it just fits on. The pin out on the old pcb was the wrong for the buttons on the spark core shield shield. The voltage (5v) would also fry a couple of the ports on the spark core - there are three that take max 3.3v. There is a jumper on the pcb to switch the circuit to a different pin out for when you are using the spark core. That way both a normal arduino or the spark core can be used.
You can see the new pcb mounted on the box cover, with LEDs in place - they slide onto pcb headers using dupont headers (no soldering mission - check!).
You can see the micromatch has been replaced with easier and more reliable dupont terminals onto pcb headers and the custom cables have spade terminals that you push onto the buttons - so nice and simple! (It was seriously finicky trying to solder the tiny wires onto those buttons).
You will also notice there are no jumper wires - they've been replaced with pcb headers and (not shown as I don't have them yet - jumper / shunts to select 12v / 5v. I didn't get any answer on why there was JU1 on the original board... so it was left in... lol. also a jumper/shunt. (no soldering mission - complete!
). The little empty sockets next to the cables are the zener diode holes, and the one underneath is the cap for across the 12v input to help reduce emi (screen scarmbling).
All working!
- Heat on
- summoning the death star - I mean, pump on. (seriously blinding, I'm getting lower brightness ones in the production version of the LEDs - glad I got samples of them both. 
What the LEDs look like. If you come up with some other cool idea... like an LED rope around the inside of your box... you can unplug the single LEDs and plug something else onto the male pcb header pins.
There are some minor positioning changes to make, and testing to do, but I hope to order the pre-production prototypes from the PCB shop next week when China gets back from holiday.
Woohoo!
GrumpyPaul
Well-Known Member
I know the controller is designed to use on a 1v recirc system....
Could the controller be used to run a herms - ie switch hex on an off to maintian mash temp, and do steps are timed intervals etc.
As pump runs all the time it doesnt really need much controlling.
Could the controller be used to run a herms - ie switch hex on an off to maintian mash temp, and do steps are timed intervals etc.
As pump runs all the time it doesnt really need much controlling.
Thanks raf!
Hi Paul, Sure can! Max put in a setting on whether the sensor is inside or outside the mash tun. If outside, the pump remains on the whole time. It might be worth messaging him to check. Alternately, you could just run the pump off 240v and remove any uncertainty. Then it would be like a PID, but with saveable programs and much much easier configuration (actually, this is a guess, I went straight to this controller).
Hi Paul, Sure can! Max put in a setting on whether the sensor is inside or outside the mash tun. If outside, the pump remains on the whole time. It might be worth messaging him to check. Alternately, you could just run the pump off 240v and remove any uncertainty. Then it would be like a PID, but with saveable programs and much much easier configuration (actually, this is a guess, I went straight to this controller).
Cavemanbrew
Well-Known Member
Very very nice Lael,
MastersBrewery
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Lael,
Great work, your attention to detail really shows. I'm still thinking down the path of Brewpi/kegbot/RaspberryPints, but with an NRF24L01 to link wirelessly to the PI. And no I'm not good with Python but with three open source projects doing similar stuff thought I might Hack something together, may take a while though.
MB
Great work, your attention to detail really shows. I'm still thinking down the path of Brewpi/kegbot/RaspberryPints, but with an NRF24L01 to link wirelessly to the PI. And no I'm not good with Python but with three open source projects doing similar stuff thought I might Hack something together, may take a while though.
MB
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