The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread

[lael]

I suspect the pot is to be able to change the screen brightness from outside the box (at least that has been my assumption...) but I'm sure elpiratella will tell us

 

[MastersBrewery]

Lael, did you get screen scamble issue sorted and if so what was the problem/fix?

 

[elpiratilla]

Hello, is simply to regulate the flow of the pump.
It is this: http://www.ebay.es/itm/AC-50-220V-10A-50-60Hz-SCR-Motor-Speed-Control-Controller-with-Knob-High-Quality-/390582860973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af08d7cad&_uhb=1
regards

 

[jwollmer]

Cool so this eliminates the need to put a ball valve to reduce the flow through the mash. I like it, no cleaning required.

Jim

 

[lael]

Lael, did you get screen scamble issue sorted and if so what was the problem/fix?

Hi Masters! - didn't get it sorted out yet, but didn't have the issue with the yoghurt I was making... I suspect it is either the soldering on the connection from the temp probe or to the socket for the temp probe (mic jack for removal). Or... I have a feeling that the element might be pulling more than it is supposed to. I think the heatsink is getting a lot hotter than when I run the first system - but I'm not sure what impact that would have on the other components / and if / why it would cause issues?

 

[jwollmer]

Just a caution I was reading on the chugger pump site that it is not good for the pump to not run at full power. It is better to restrict the output.

 

[jwollmer]

What is the current recommendation for pumps? The chugger is quite big.
Kaixin ( not sure where to purchase)
Braumeister uses vortex bw 152

Looking for input.

Thanks
Jim

 

[joshF]

You can find a kaixin pump from craftbrewer, keg king, alot of people sell them around the $65 mark. I've used a kaixin for about 5 months now and it's been great. No issues whatsoever. For the extra price of a march or chugger you'd want to be doing quite alot of brewing otherwise it's a little harder to justify paying 3 or 4 times as much. Then down the track if you want to up your system, go ahead and buy an expensive pump and just use the kaixin for pumping water or something.

 

[livetoride]

Hey everyone, I know that the default temp is 4095.75c when there is no probe attached.

But mine shows 0c but it looks like all my joints are reasonable color, one might not have quite enough soilder on it but yeah had my local jaycar/wiltronics look over it and he doesn't seem to see a issue!

Can you check the joins with a multimeter or is it purely visual? Any tips would be massively appreciated, thanks daniel!

 

[jwollmer]

I looked at kaixin. I am in the US and shipping is $60. I can get a chugger for $140 so price is similar. I have 2 concerns. One is the chugger is a big pump to put under kettle. Two I think the chugger pump may be significantly louder.

Any experience or other ideas? I am using a 40l kettle.

Thanks

 

[joshF]

Hey everyone, I know that the default temp is 4095.75c when there is no probe attached.

But mine shows 0c but it looks like all my joints are reasonable color, one might not have quite enough soilder on it but yeah had my local jaycar/wiltronics look over it and he doesn't seem to see a issue!

Can you check the joins with a multimeter or is it purely visual? Any tips would be massively appreciated, thanks daniel!

I made mine ages ago now but i think i had a similar issue. Make sure the G, N, D wires are all wired up properly to the plastic bracket and the soldering underneath the shield is making good contact. I remember some different temp sensors label the 3 wires differently so it can be a little confusing (for a non-technical person like me)

Or... the temp sensor may dodgy

 

[CosmicBertie]

Hey everyone, I know that the default temp is 4095.75c when there is no probe attached.

But mine shows 0c but it looks like all my joints are reasonable color, one might not have quite enough soilder on it but yeah had my local jaycar/wiltronics look over it and he doesn't seem to see a issue!

Can you check the joins with a multimeter or is it purely visual? Any tips would be massively appreciated, thanks daniel!

As JoshF has stated, it sounds like you have the wires from the temp sensor wired up incorrectly. Thinking back, I had the same issue and found that the document was for a different revision of the board and that the connections had been switched around.

 

[livetoride]

Thanks for the help team, I'm just running arduino via usb with it plugged into mathos controller with nothing connected bar the usb. Maybe this is where im going wrong? Hopefully my psu will arrive tomorrow so I can test the whole board properly!

 

[joshF]

If you wire up the 3 wires of the sensor it should still show you the temperature regardless of whether the power is coming from usb or 12v. Not really sure what the 0 is suggesting but it's hard to tell until you wire it up. i know the 4095c was the default message for most people unless the shield has changed or you're using a different arduino board? Best to just wire it up mate and go from there

 

[livetoride]

If you wire up the 3 wires of the sensor it should still show you the temperature regardless of whether the power is coming from usb or 12v. Not really sure what the 0 is suggesting but it's hard to tell until you wire it up. i know the 4095c was the default message for most people unless the shield has changed or you're using a different arduino board? Best to just wire it up mate and go from there

Josh thank you so much, I just pit in 3 off cuts of wire and it came up with the magical number of 4095c, some how I must have over looked that step! Cheers for the help greatly appreciated!

 

[lael]

As JoshF has stated, it sounds like you have the wires from the temp sensor wired up incorrectly. Thinking back, I had the same issue and found that the document was for a different revision of the board and that the connections had been switched around.

I just thought I'd comment on this - I've got a copy of the original board as well as the newer ones - the terminals are all the same - positive, data, negative for the temp probe. The thing that does differ is how each temp probe wires up their probes and what colours they use.

The sure electronics data probes are wired up red - yellow - black

The heat-shrinked data probe (not in bulkhead/thermowell) I bought off ebay is wired up red - yellow - green (left to right)

If you buy something that is different - just check what the specs on the probe say.

If you wire the temp probe up the wrong way around the shield won't work, and some people have reported the temp probe dying.

 

[CosmicBertie]

Ah, sorry lael, I wasnt trying to start a **** fight. I hazily remembered something being said about how things were different....and I'm more than prepared to stand corrected

 

[catcher]

For a newbie like me do you have a link of what you are building?

 

[djar007]

They are building a Braumeister clone. Here is a good example of one.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/page-2?hl=%2Bmathos+%2Bcontroller#entry1119652

 

[lael]

Ah, sorry lael, I wasnt trying to start a **** fight. I hazily remembered something being said about how things were different....and I'm more than prepared to stand corrected

all good! just wanted to make sure any newbies / late to construct people knew how to wire them easily!