The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread

[Northfleet]

Hello Lael, this is my first time here, I live in Angra dos Reis, Brazil and I'm interested to know how I can buy your Lael Kit?
Not sure this is the correct place, if not I apologize, but it was the place I found to make this contact. Grateful for your help.

 

[lael]

Hi Northfleet,

I'll PM you with options. Best if you can get more than one kit and split with peope to reduce the postage cost. Essentially the kit is $50, postage is $30 for international and can fit up to 500gr (about 4-5 kits max).

Cheers,

Lael

 

[Northfleet]

Lael Ok, thanks for your reply.
So following your suggestion, we will negotiate 3 kits!
The price mentioned is in AUD$?
How do I pay and what are the next steps?

Thanks

Northfleet

 

[Raf]

I have about 6 kits ready to go, but they are missing 15mm nylon mounts (got sent the wrong thing and ran out). If anyone wants one, just PM me.
I've just ordered a fresh round of PCBs which I'm intending to be the last batch of kits that I do. They are amazing, but take a bit of time to organise and package and send.

Lael,
Do you have any more of these kits left. Willing to take one if you have
Thanks

 

[Northfleet]

Lael,

Now just look at the profile of my forum e-mail.
Sorry was not enabled before!
Waiting for your response in PM!
Thanks

 

[tateg]

hi all
is anyone still having any issues with the screen scrambling with a 240volt pump?
the new one I just finished seems to scramble when ever the 240v live wire is connected to the board.
any ideas??

cheers
tate

 

[MastersBrewery]

hi all
is anyone still having any issues with the screen scrambling with a 240volt pump?
the new one I just finished seems to scramble when ever the 240v live wire is connected to the board.
any ideas??

cheers
tate

There is a fix in the main controller thread, or you could decouple it using an SSR

 

[drevinfr]

Hi Lael,

I received the kit last week and I have everything assembled minus the lcd. The kit did not come the screws, you could tell me what extend they have?

Cheers.
Fran

 

[adom]

Hi Lael,

Im interesting to buy Controller Kit. Please let me know if you have one for sale.

Thank you
Andrej

 

[bcavan]

Hi Lael,

I too would be interested in a controller kit.

Thanks

Brendan

 

[drevinfr]

Hi!
I've already put some M3 screws which my father in law had.
Everything works fine!!!

Fran

 

[lael]

HI Everyone!

About to send out some kits this week - if you want one and haven't already been in touch - PM me and let me know.

Cheers!

Lael

 

[lael]

There is a fix in the main controller thread, or you could decouple it using an SSR

Masters - do you have the link to that post? I had issue with my new build scrambling as well and don't like that much. Someone today told me that he's found simply re-flashing the arduino might fix it which sounded strange.

If the arduino is scrambling EVERY time you connect power I would think there is something wrong with your wiring or similar.

 

[MastersBrewery]

yeah scrambled screens are a sign of EMI caused by switch an inductive load, the boards that lael have been producing already has a snubber circuit across the switch but it seems not to suppress the EMI enough. I'm looking into whether putting another snubber circuit across the load will cause any problems with the exisiting snubber circuit. Another thing that might help is to put an electrolytic capacitor across the 12 supply to further decouple the power supply, 2200uf 16v worked for me when I was switching a fridge compressor.

cheers steve

This is the post I was referring to. From what I understand if the house supply is noisy/dirty it will interfer with the unit also, if you remember turning on a blender and the TV screen getting snow you'll understand what I mean( I note one of SWMBO's electric massages does this) so a snubber across the supply may be required.

In the end if you have eliminated EMI from high voltage(240v) and eliminated electronic noise from pumps and input power, it would then have to be a issue with the solder joints(more likely) or software(possible not probable and a reflash should resolve). If you have access to one of those lit magnifying glasses on a stand grab it and go over all the LCD joints, perhaps even switch out the LCD.

ED further reflection has me wondering, you could try a computer psu as they are made to supply clean 12v your pentium is a lot more fickle a bout the juice it gets

 

[tateg]

This is the post I was referring to. From what I understand if the house supply is noisy/dirty it will interfer with the unit also, if you remember turning on a blender and the TV screen getting snow you'll understand what I mean( I note one of SWMBO's electric massages does this) so a snubber across the supply may be required.

In the end if you have eliminated EMI from high voltage(240v) and eliminated electronic noise from pumps and input power, it would then have to be a issue with the solder joints(more likely) or software(possible not probable and a reflash should resolve). If you have access to one of those lit magnifying glasses on a stand grab it and go over all the LCD joints, perhaps even switch out the LCD.

ED further reflection has me wondering, you could try a computer psu as they are made to supply clean 12v your pentium is a lot more fickle a bout the juice it gets

Was a bad solder joint in my case only way I sorted it out was to go back over all the solder joints
None actually looked like a cold joint but one of them must have been

 

[lael]

Hmm - I might double check my soldering...

 

[elpiratilla]

Running a 220v pump and LCD without any problem, and that I bought a ssr for pump but in the end I have not been used.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnm_QfQtR4Q
A special greeting and Lael

 

[lael]

That looks fantastic! Nice work elpiratella! So satisfying to see them come together nicely. Brilliant job on the build!

 

[livetoride]

Pm sent Lael

 

[jwollmer]

Elpiratilla, very nice build! I see you added a potentiometer. Was this wired in between the SSR and the element, to turn down the heat in the case of a potential boil over. Or is it an over ride of the PID to get a stronger boil?

Thanks in advance.

 

[lael]

I suspect the pot is to be able to change the screen brightness from outside the box (at least that has been my assumption...) but I'm sure elpiratella will tell us

 

[MastersBrewery]

Lael, did you get screen scamble issue sorted and if so what was the problem/fix?

 

[elpiratilla]

Hello, is simply to regulate the flow of the pump.
It is this: http://www.ebay.es/itm/AC-50-220V-10A-50-60Hz-SCR-Motor-Speed-Control-Controller-with-Knob-High-Quality-/390582860973?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af08d7cad&_uhb=1
regards

 

[jwollmer]

Cool so this eliminates the need to put a ball valve to reduce the flow through the mash. I like it, no cleaning required.

Jim

 

[lael]

Lael, did you get screen scamble issue sorted and if so what was the problem/fix?

Hi Masters! - didn't get it sorted out yet, but didn't have the issue with the yoghurt I was making... I suspect it is either the soldering on the connection from the temp probe or to the socket for the temp probe (mic jack for removal). Or... I have a feeling that the element might be pulling more than it is supposed to. I think the heatsink is getting a lot hotter than when I run the first system - but I'm not sure what impact that would have on the other components / and if / why it would cause issues?

 

[jwollmer]

Just a caution I was reading on the chugger pump site that it is not good for the pump to not run at full power. It is better to restrict the output.

 

[jwollmer]

What is the current recommendation for pumps? The chugger is quite big.
Kaixin ( not sure where to purchase)
Braumeister uses vortex bw 152

Looking for input.

Thanks
Jim

 

[joshF]

You can find a kaixin pump from craftbrewer, keg king, alot of people sell them around the $65 mark. I've used a kaixin for about 5 months now and it's been great. No issues whatsoever. For the extra price of a march or chugger you'd want to be doing quite alot of brewing otherwise it's a little harder to justify paying 3 or 4 times as much. Then down the track if you want to up your system, go ahead and buy an expensive pump and just use the kaixin for pumping water or something.

 

[livetoride]

Hey everyone, I know that the default temp is 4095.75c when there is no probe attached.

But mine shows 0c but it looks like all my joints are reasonable color, one might not have quite enough soilder on it but yeah had my local jaycar/wiltronics look over it and he doesn't seem to see a issue!

Can you check the joins with a multimeter or is it purely visual? Any tips would be massively appreciated, thanks daniel!

 

[jwollmer]

I looked at kaixin. I am in the US and shipping is $60. I can get a chugger for $140 so price is similar. I have 2 concerns. One is the chugger is a big pump to put under kettle. Two I think the chugger pump may be significantly louder.

Any experience or other ideas? I am using a 40l kettle.

Thanks