The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Buy thread

[QldKev]

You don't need the buttons wired to get a display.

 

[CosmicBertie]

Finally got my act together and soldered up the board and fitted the LED screen and ardiuno -uno. I have not wired in the push buttons yet and thought I would load the program and check all is OK before fitting it all in the box. I upload the program and do not get any errors but the LED screen powers up is blank. Is this normal or is there something wrong. i thought I should see something on the screen?

Does the screen power up? Its fairly obvious to tell if its got power. If so, then try turning the POT on the back to adjust the contrast.

 

[abbottdk]

Its all soldered and ready to be fitted inside the box. I have connect a temp power supply (12v) but have not connected to the relays or temp probe. The screen the LCD screen is the same even when it is removed form the board. I think the ardiuno -uno is OK because I was able to run the sample blink program?

 

[abbottdk]

Does the screen power up? Its fairly obvious to tell if its got power. If so, then try turning the POT on the back to adjust the contrast.

The screen powers up and is bright blue, maybe its too bright so I don't see any text. Is the pot on the back of the screen or is it the one I soldered on the shield?

 

[QldKev]

The pot is the one you soldered onto the board.

Also, silly question but rather ask than not, you did load the braduino program into the arduino?

 

[GrumpyPaul]

Have been watching this thread with interest for a while now but I dont hink I have a clear understanding about this controller.

Is there a description somewhere that outlines what it does ( I started reading through but 10 pages is a lot to get through)

Am I correct in thinking it is essentially for a single vessel system? - or can it be used on a 3V set up?

Is this different than the controller build Kev and Truman have recently completed?

Is the kit that is being put together everything you need?

If not what else do you need to complete the controller?

Whats a ball park figure on putting a completed controller together?

 

[QldKev]

I've built the big controller for my 3V and also have one of these for my 1V. This one is best suited to a 1V setup.


This controller allows you to enter in multiple steps for a mash, and controls the heating element and pump.
Then you also enter your hop times and it beeps letting you know to add the hops.


The kit has what you need to build the pcb, so you still need other stuff like n arduino and a box to put it all in etc.

In the I want matho's controller there is a costing spreadsheet, but from that

Arduino Shield Kit 1 $ 45.00 $ 45.00 ** this kit
Arduino 1 $ 20.00 $ 20.00
Front plate fascia panel 1 $ 25.00 $ 25.00 ** optional

JayCar Parts:
Box 1 $ 23.95 $ 23.95
Black push buttons 3 $ 4.95 $ 14.85
Red push button 1 $ 4.95 $ 4.95 2
Pin connector socket for 12v pump 1 $ 2.95 $ 2.95
2 pin connector plug for 12v pump 1 $ 2.95 $ 2.95
4 pin connector socket for temp probe 1 $ 2.95 $ 2.95
4 pin connector plug for temp probe 1 $ 2.95 $ 2.95
Heatsink 1 $ 8.95 $ 8.95
thermal paste 1 $ 3.50 $ 3.50
power socket for power to controller 1 $ 4.95 $ 4.95
sockets for pump and heater leads 2 $ 4.95 $ 9.90
power leads for pump and heater 2 $ 6.95 $ 13.90
3mm screws - 10mm long and 5mm long 1 $ 5.00 $ 5.00 ** included in this kit

Ebay Parts:
15mm standoffs 1 $ 4.30 $ 4.30 ** included in this kit
6mm standoffs 1 $ 3.40 $ 3.40 ** included in this kit
12v power supply 1 $ 8.00 $ 8.00
SSR-25A - ssr for heating element 1 $ 3.60 $ 3.60


Then you still need to sort out a temp probe

 

[Logman]

I'm doing a 3v HERMS with Matho's controller and Bonj's code but Bonj says there are some alterations to the pin assignments in his code when using Matho's controller, haven't got that far yet. Not sure if he is supplying the controllers that directly suit his code, you would need to PM him.

 

[GrumpyPaul]

Kev - thanks for the response.

So as a ball park it looks like about $200 to get it all up and running.

The question I missed in my earlier post is...

How doable is this for someone with little knowledge of electronics.

I am reasonably handy and will try my hand at most things but electricity is a bit scary....I have wired up an STC but this sounds a lot fiddlier.

A bit OT from the Bonj/matho controller - as a ball park how much did your big controller for the 3v set you back.

I am still trying to decide between the small step from Biab to 1V or big step to 3V.

 

[breakbeer]

Grumpy, I initially bought the kit & when it turned up & was just a big bag of electronic parts I realised I'd bitten off more than I can chew. It is a REALLY fiddly job & without the right skills would be a nightmare to try & get working.

Wiring the arduino into the box was quite easy though, just actually assembling the kit is the tricky part

 

[QldKev]

I'm with breakbeer. I'm perfectly happy with 240v and the 240v side of this project, but this fiddly electronics stuff kills me. Following the pcb build manual is easy. It's just getting the soldering iron to do what it's meant too is not that easy. Although I'm now blaming my solder as I have a lot less issues with my good stuff; and after watching EEVBlog #180 I was using the wrong soldering tip for the job. If it was not for matho helping me out I'd still be pulling my hair out, with soldering and shit everywhere. But if your good with a soldering iron it would be a lot easier.

I'll take the other control panel discussion offline.

 

[micbrew]

hey Paul

im in the process of acquiring all the bits n pieces for the braumeister clone ie 1v system

and have hope to have most parts in the next few weeks ...
1 have a 70 ltre pot and a list of goodies to assemble

I don't have the skill set either .. but im gunna give it a shot
flying by the seat of my pants and loving it !! :beerbang:
the amount of information on here is brilliant just need to focus on what you want !! and go for it

when I finaly decide my design etc ... I will begin the build in the next few weeks or so ....
now only waiting on parts ..more funding and time :blink:

cheers mick

 

[MastersBrewery]

Link to the original controller thread http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/59563-mathos-controller/
Had one of the mods alter the name as too many people were complaining it was hard to search for.

MB

 

[CosmicBertie]

The screen powers up and is bright blue, maybe its too bright so I don't see any text. Is the pot on the back of the screen or is it the one I soldered on the shield?

Its the one that you soldered onto the PCB. You'll find that you have to turn it with a flathead screwdriver.

 

[abbottdk]

I have found my problem and thanks for all your helpful hints. Once I turned up the brightness using the pot I was able to see the text.

 

[lael]

If you have never soldered or done electrical wiring it is finicky... that said - that is where I started with it all. I would make sure you get a fine tipped soldering iron, and watch the youtube video i posted a few pages back. The kit is $50, the parts from Jaycar for the box and parts (with plugs and connectors, not just cable glands) cost me a little over $110.-? the fascia panel makes it look real nice and is about $25 from superoo - PM him to confirm. Arduino is about $25 or so. So yeah - about $200.- or just over.

It is an awesome bit of kit once finished, but does take some time to get there.

 

[Mattmedia]

Is there going to be any more of these shields made? This project looks excellent.

 

[abbottdk]

I have completed fititng the box and the soldering is finicking the first time but it all works out even if some re-soldering is required like in my case. That said I still have one problem and the screen still goes funny occasionally when the 240 v pump turns off/on. Matho recommended installing a 16V 2200 uF on the 12 v inputs (from another post). I fitted a 25v 2200uF (16V out of stock) but are still getting the screen garble . I am using one of the boards supplied by Lael which was supposed to fix the problem. Does this mean I have some poor soldering? and what causes the screen to gargle?
Is anyone else have this problem?

 

[lael]

I have completed fititng the box and the soldering is finicking the first time but it all works out even if some re-soldering is required like in my case. That said I still have one problem and the screen still goes funny occasionally when the 240 v pump turns off/on. Matho recommended installing a 16V 2200 uF on the 12 v inputs (from another post). I fitted a 25v 2200uF (16V out of stock) but are still getting the screen garble . I am using one of the boards supplied by Lael which was supposed to fix the problem. Does this mean I have some poor soldering? and what causes the screen to gargle?
Is anyone else have this problem?

hey barrel, can you post a picture of your board? both sides would be great.

 

[abbottdk]

Lael I have attached some photos if it helps. the big green capacitor is something that Matho recommended in a different post and the red bridge wire you see on the front side of the board was necessary to get the down button to work. I suspect I may have damaged the etched circuit during soldering.