The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[NealK]

I don't think I did that. I'll give it a try and report back!

 

[sluggerdog]

My controller has been outstanding for the last year or so since I got everything up and running. Today however as I brew probably 15th batch with the controller the temperature seems out?

I've only noticed it since the boil started, I have my boiling temp set to 98c which usually is about right, I hit it quite easily after mashout.

Today however the temperature is sitting around 95.5c - 96.5c so the timer hasn't kicked in, quite a rapid boil too, similar to my usual 98c boils. I compared it to my thermopen which is reading 98.9c.

Not a huge drama for the boil as I am just running a manual timer to finish today but it makes me wonder if the temperature was out during my mash as well?

Has anyone run into this issue before? Do I maybe need to calibrate the controller once I am done with today? Could the probe be somewhat damaged? Any other possible causes?

Note: My probe is located within a t-piece between the out of the kettle and where it runs into the pump and back into the kettle.

Thanks

 

[lael]

My controller has been outstanding for the last year or so since I got everything up and running. Today however as I brew probably 15th batch with the controller the temperature seems out?

I've only noticed it since the boil started, I have my boiling temp set to 98c which usually is about right, I hit it quite easily after mashout.

Today however the temperature is sitting around 95.5c - 96.5c so the timer hasn't kicked in, quite a rapid boil too, similar to my usual 98c boils. I compared it to my thermopen which is reading 98.9c.

Not a huge drama for the boil as I am just running a manual timer to finish today but it makes me wonder if the temperature was out during my mash as well?

Has anyone run into this issue before? Do I maybe need to calibrate the controller once I am done with today? Could the probe be somewhat damaged? Any other possible causes?

Note: My probe is located within a t-piece between the out of the kettle and where it runs into the pump and back into the kettle.

Thanks

Hi Slugger,
I've not noticed an issue with mine, but I only usually measure during the mash. It is consistently within 0.5-1C at the top of the malt pipe.

How is the T piece situated? Could it be an air pocket that is insulating the probe slightly? If there is consistent flow, I would expect that the liquid temp would be virtually the same as in the kettle as I wouldn't think it would have time to cool, and you've said it's been fine before (is that also with a temp measurement?). My guess is an air pocket, but you'll have to say if that is possible.

 

[sluggerdog]

Hi Slugger,
I've not noticed an issue with mine, but I only usually measure during the mash. It is consistently within 0.5-1C at the top of the malt pipe.

How is the T piece situated? Could it be an air pocket that is insulating the probe slightly? If there is consistent flow, I would expect that the liquid temp would be virtually the same as in the kettle as I wouldn't think it would have time to cool, and you've said it's been fine before (is that also with a temp measurement?). My guess is an air pocket, but you'll have to say if that is possible.

Yeah it could be an air pocket, to be honest, I haven't measured my temp for 6+ months. The controller was always spot on with my thermopen so I didn't worry and got lazy, I will in future though.

After today I might just run a water-only trial and see how it compares along the stages.

Cheers

 

[lael]

Let me know how it goes, if the t join has the temp probe above, it might be worth rotating it so it is coming up from below and air can't get stuck.

Yeah, I'm the same. Just happened to test it last time because I was at a friend's brewing and he asked

I like to think that is testament to how reliable the system is... I just trust mine to do the job and leave it to its thing.

 

[Jase]

After spending most weekends over the last two years completing a Masters at uni which I completed in December and a well deserved break overseas over Christmas, it's time to start thinking about building the controller and the new 1v brewery.

Started to put the controller together and noticed that the fascia only had three holes drilled, slightly cracked the fascia putting the 4th hole in. The buzzer was missing from the kit, so I'll need to pm Lael for details on what buzzer to get.

My 3v system is gas fired, so I have a few questions relating to an all electric setup. I'm planning on building the 1v system with a 80 litre pot and a 35 litre malt pipe. I usually brew double batches.

Should I grab a single 4800 w element ( I'm happy to install a 20 amp circuit if need be), or two 2400 w elements, so I can switch off the 2nd element when boil has been reached? ( I have no idea if 4800 watt is overkill or 2400 w is not enough, I'm not even sure how long a double batch takes to get to boil using electricity).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Jase

 

[lael]

After spending most weekends over the last two years completing a Masters at uni which I completed in December and a well deserved break overseas over Christmas, it's time to start thinking about building the controller and the new 1v brewery.

Started to put the controller together and noticed that the fascia only had three holes drilled, slightly cracked the fascia putting the 4th hole in. The buzzer was missing from the kit, so I'll need to pm Lael for details on what buzzer to get.

My 3v system is gas fired, so I have a few questions relating to an all electric setup. I'm planning on building the 1v system with a 80 litre pot and a 35 litre malt pipe. I usually brew double batches.

Should I grab a single 4800 w element ( I'm happy to install a 20 amp circuit if need be), or two 2400 w elements, so I can switch off the 2nd element when boil has been reached? ( I have no idea if 4800 watt is overkill or 2400 w is not enough, I'm not even sure how long a double batch takes to get to boil using electricity).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Jase

Hi Jase,

Congratulations on the Masters - an excellent achievement!

PM your details and I'll send through a new fascia and buzzer.

The wattage of your elements doesn't matter, provided: it is low density so you don't scorch wort, you can provide the required power and you have the space. Adding 20A outlets will cost money, adding 2x10A elements will take more space in your brewpot. Assuming you keep the same watt density on your element, a 20A element will need to be twice as long, which will impact your minimum volumes (make them larger as your minimum wort height will be higher). To be honest, if I was to go 20A, I would probably go 2x 4800w elements, and trust that the PID and PWM functions would allow control of the boil appropriately. That will speed up your ramp times. It will cost more initially, but be more satisfying in the long run.

 

[malt junkie]

A note Lael missed there: If your running more than 15 amps (total) through the SSRs you need to put a fan on the heat sink. It takes a standard 60 mm computer type fan. If you go two 4800w elements I'd fit 2 fans.

For your batch size 3600w would probably get the job done, however with 60-70L of wort (pre-boil) in there it'll be slow going. Using two 2400w elements (this is the set up I have) means you can use two separate circuits(every house has 3) therefore if you move or go to a friends you'll still be able to use the system. As Lael mentioned I just let the controller run the elements.

35L is the same as my small malt pipe good for large singles and medium doubles.

Enjoy the rest of the build!

 

[Jase]

Hi Jase,

Congratulations on the Masters - an excellent achievement!

PM your details and I'll send through a new fascia and buzzer.

The wattage of your elements doesn't matter, provided: it is low density so you don't scorch wort, you can provide the required power and you have the space. Adding 20A outlets will cost money, adding 2x10A elements will take more space in your brewpot. Assuming you keep the same watt density on your element, a 20A element will need to be twice as long, which will impact your minimum volumes (make them larger as your minimum wort height will be higher). To be honest, if I was to go 20A, I would probably go 2x 4800w elements, and trust that the PID and PWM functions would allow control of the boil appropriately. That will speed up your ramp times. It will cost more initially, but be more satisfying in the long run.

Thanks Lael,

And thanks for your kind words.

If I ran 2 x 4800 w elements, would I be correct in thinking that I would need 2 x 20a circuits?

Cheers,
Jase

 

[Jase]

A note Lael missed there: If your running more than 15 amps (total) through the SSRs you need to put a fan on the heat sink. It takes a standard 60 mm computer type fan. If you go two 4800w elements I'd fit 2 fans.

For your batch size 3600w would probably get the job done, however with 60-70L of wort (pre-boil) in there it'll be slow going. Using two 2400w elements (this is the set up I have) means you can use two separate circuits(every house has 3) therefore if you move or go to a friends you'll still be able to use the system. As Lael mentioned I just let the controller run the elements.

35L is the same as my small malt pipe good for large singles and medium doubles.

Enjoy the rest of the build!

Thanks for the reply MJ,

I will put two fans on the heatsink as per your recommendation. Can I power these from the controller itself?

Cheers,
Jase

 

[malt junkie]

Yeah the fans you need are 12v and can be wire to the 12v power supply inside the case, the power draw from those is negligible.

 

[niftinev]

Thanks Lael,

And thanks for your kind words.

If I ran 2 x 4800 w elements, would I be correct in thinking that I would need 2 x 20a circuits?

Cheers,
Jase

not a sparky

I would go 2 x 30a circuits or 1x 30a for 4800 watts

15a house circuit is for 2400 watts, so 4800 watts for 30a

 

[malt junkie]

Thanks Lael,

And thanks for your kind words.

If I ran 2 x 4800 w elements, would I be correct in thinking that I would need 2 x 20a circuits?

Cheers,
Jase

I have 4800w (total) @ 2x 2400w and use two standard house circuits. I have 53L malt pipe and regularly tripple batch (60L odd to fermenter). I also have a 35L malt pipe max batch is a decent double(40L odd to the fermenter). 4800w (total) will give you a good hard boil with reasonable ramp times at that batch size. 3600w (total) would get the job done, just. Your max pre boil volume should be no more than 50L.

9600w (total) @ 2x 4800w for a double batch is complete over kill.

2c (this is a 1970's 2c)

 

[Mr_Brewer]

laelhttp://aussiehomebrewer.com/user/26092-lael/ hi pm sent

still cant run this

Brauduino

 

[Jase]

I have 4800w (total) @ 2x 2400w and use two standard house circuits. I have 53L malt pipe and regularly tripple batch (60L odd to fermenter). I also have a 35L malt pipe max batch is a decent double(40L odd to the fermenter). 4800w (total) will give you a good hard boil with reasonable ramp times at that batch size. 3600w (total) would get the job done, just. Your max pre boil volume should be no more than 50L.

9600w (total) @ 2x 4800w for a double batch is complete over kill.

2c (this is a 1970's 2c)

Thanks MJ,

Great advice.

If I ran 2 x 2400 w to get to boil, is there a way to throttle the elements so I get a rolling boil rather than a hard boil or will the controller manage/run the elements?

Btw, that 1970s 2c would be worth quite a bit today!

Cheers,
Jase

 

[malt junkie]

You can adjust the vigor of the boil with the controller

Cheers

 

[malt junkie]

For those just building this kit or reprogramming after a few years here are the instructions for program setup, the drop box where they were located no longer works.View attachment ArdBir Manual ENG (2.8.x).pdf

cheers

 

[Jase]

Hi All,

Spent a few hours yesterday putting together the controller.

Planning on getting a sparky to look at it this weekend or next week if I don't finish it tomorrow. I'm struggling with the notion of using figure 8 from the Active In on the SSR ( grouped with 2 strands of 2.5mm active cable) to the board and figure 8 back to the active on the pump socket. Figure 8 seems too thin. I'm almost looking for assurance that figure 8 will be ok.

Cheers,
Jase

 

[malt junkie]

figure 8????? never heard the term.

 

[Jase]

figure 8????? never heard the term.

The guys refer to it in their video and I believe it is mentioned in this forum,

Out of curiosity, what cabling did you use on the pump active pin MJ?

Cheers,
Jase