Stone & Wood Pacific Ale

[Nizmoose]

0 minutes is flameout, and I also dry hopped with 60gm on Day7. All pellets mate.

Doesn't matter what size batch, as the percentages and G/pl remain the same. FWIW though, I made 23L with 2.8kg Pale, 1.8kg Wheat and 100gm Dextrine - 10gm Galaxy @ 30, 10gm Galaxy @ 0, 60gm Galaxy dry.

Your volume matters for the dry hop because you said g/L for all additions then 60g dry hop which we're assuming isn't 60g/l?

 

[slcmorro]

If you go back and read post #53, you'll see quite clearly where I wrote 'Dry hop with 60gm on day 7'. The only time g/L is mentioned is in the kettle additions at specified times in the exported recipe. Either way, the answer is known now.

 

[Moad]

If you go back and read post #53, you'll see quite clearly where I wrote 'Dry hop with 60gm on day 7'. The only time g/L is mentioned is in the kettle additions at specified times in the exported recipe. Either way, the answer is known now.

Thanks mate.

So dry hop about 3g/l...

A 60g dry hop in 1000L is very different to 60g in 20.

I'll give this recipe a try since I have 500g of galaxy to use up!

 

[slcmorro]

Hold onto some of that Galaxy very tightly. It's apparently going to be a be a valuable commodity if rumours are anything to go by. Let me know what you think of the finished beer.

 

[slcmorro]

Ah yes, and I see the point about about g/L now. Makes perfect sense. Pprbably shouldn't post first thing in the morning while fasted for a procedure. No coffee makes me something something.

 

[Matplat]

Righto, another new guy here!

I saw this recipe and got pretty excited, as S&W is deee-licious! Then I found out I couldn't get galaxy hops...

Anyway, I had also been looking at the Cascarillo Amber ale recipe on the Coopers DIY website which uses, yep, you guessed it Cascade and Amarillo!

I saw the few previous posts about mixing in some Cascade so thought I would give it a whirl, but I really like the sound of galaxy passionfruit, so I decided to substitute Citra to get those fruity flavours going, and while I was at it I ordered some Amarillo too.

So I have 50g of Cascade, Amarillo and Citra on order!

As I am a newbie (getting carried away), I'd be keen for any thoughts/recommendations on a hopping schedule, assuming I follow the rest of this recipe.

Cheers, Matt

 

[menoetes]

Hey Mayplat,

Are you looking at doing a kit & bits recipe or extract or all grain? I've done a couple of kit clones of the Pacificale as well as one or two extract/partials. I've got some galaxy in the freezer and will be making my first All Grain version of it this weekend.

It's a shame you can't get your hands on the galaxy but a citra + cascade mix will turn out a real nice beer, though it won't be anything like the S&W Pacificale. Without galaxy hops there's just no getting around that. :unsure:

Let us know how you brew though and one of us should be able to help you out with a pretty good recipe along similar lines.

 

[Matplat]

Yeah I've just put down my first Coopers Pale Ale kit... but aiming higher at unhopped extract brewing . I was looking at that recipe generator spreadsheet and to get closer to an APA style it was telling me to add an extra 0.5kg LDME on top of the two cans of LME....?

 

[burrster]

Yeah I've just put down my first Coopers Pale Ale kit... but aiming higher at unhopped extract brewing . I was looking at that recipe generator spreadsheet and to get closer to an APA style it was telling me to add an extra 0.5kg LDME on top of the two cans of LME....?

Yep that's right. If your aiming for around 5% in 23L then that's what you need. I often use one 'can' of liquid extract and then use dry extract to make up the difference. I do this because When doing my boil for the hops I need roughly 800g of dry extract ( or 1000g of liquid) to get the gravity correct for my 8L boil, and its far easier(and less messy) measuring dry extract. So a typical recipe might have a can of liquid(1.5kg), and 1.5kg of dry extract to get about 5% in 23L.

 

[Matplat]

This is my recipe so far,

The only things i'm not sure about are whether the boil volume includes the LDME, and when to add the LME tins.

I also don't understand the hop concentration factor, and whether to use it or not. It changes the position of the recipe on the chart fairly wildly.

Cheers, Matt

 

[NewtownClown]

It means add 533 grams of DME to 5 litres of water - this gives you a wort of approx 1.040 SG which is good for hop utilisation - and bring to the boil.
Use the HCF, adjusting the boil volume will alter the amount of malt required to hit the above figure and you will notice a difference in hop utilisation, resulting in a change in IBU. Better hop utilisation = less hops required.

Your hop additions are all made in the boil which can be strained at flameout and the hot liquid used to dissolve your LME's and remaining malt in the fermenter or it can be cooled in an ice bath (covered) and carefully poured, to leave the kettle trub behind, into the malts already mixed and dissolved in the fermenter.

Of course, if you have the capacity, you can just dissolve the malts directly in the kettle at the end of the boil and strain/decant into the fermenter, but the sugars caught in the trub (hops and break) will be highly concentrated as opposed to what remains if straining/decanting a ~1.040 wort.

As per your recipe, I personally would be adding another 10 IBU if, in fact, an APA is what you wish to create. As the spreadsheet indicates in column N, you IBU is LOW, meaning it is less than the minimum specified in the Style Guidlines. As is also indicated in the graph. The blue box is an illustration of the Gudline specs for a particular style. Your recipe leans more to the malty (sweet) side than is appropriate for an APA.

 

[Matplat]

It means add 533 grams of DME to 5 litres of water - this gives you a wort of approx 1.040 SG which is good for hop utilisation - and bring to the boil.
Use the HCF, adjusting the boil volume will alter the amount of malt required to hit the above figure and you will notice a difference in hop utilisation, resulting in a change in IBU. Better hop utilisation = less hops required.

Your hop additions are all made in the boil which can be strained at flameout and the hot liquid used to dissolve your LME's and remaining malt in the fermenter or it can be cooled in an ice bath (covered) and carefully poured, to leave the kettle trub behind, into the malts already mixed and dissolved in the fermenter.

Of course, if you have the capacity, you can just dissolve the malts directly in the kettle at the end of the boil and strain/decant into the fermenter, but the sugars caught in the trub (hops and break) will be highly concentrated as opposed to what remains if straining/decanting a ~1.040 wort.

As per your recipe, I personally would be adding another 10 IBU if, in fact, an APA is what you wish to create. As the spreadsheet indicates in column N, you IBU is LOW, meaning it is less than the minimum specified in the Style Guidlines. As is also indicated in the graph. The blue box is an illustration of the Gudline specs for a particular style. Your recipe leans more to the malty (sweet) side than is appropriate for an APA.

Thanks for that detailed response!

I have re-jigged quantites to suit both the equipment I have, and inventory that I have, and that I don't want to up the IBU too much just out of personal preference.

So I will boil 4L in my 5L pot, add 427g DME, re-boil, 30 min boil with hop additions, rest of DME + Dex at flame out.

Chill wort in ice bath down to 21deg, pour it through the colander into the fermenter, dissolve LME tins in fermenter, top up with cool boiled water then pitch the yeast and stick it in the fridge at 18 deg.

Sound about right?

By the way I apologise for the thread hijack.... wasn't intentional!

 

[NewtownClown]

No problem.
Sounds almost right.
Just dissolve the required DME in warm water (I have found it mixes in better than hot/boiling water) and bring that to the boil for your hopping. No need to boil the water first.

You need some heat to mix the remaining DME and the LME, so put those in the fermenter with as little hot water as needed before adding the chilled wort and topping up.

A 4 litre boil in a 5 litre pot could be precarious. You may get a boil over without a lot of attention. Especially when the hops are added, they act as nucleation sites and cause foaming. Keep a spray bottle of cold water handy and spray the foam as it threatens to climb out of the kettle and briefly pull the pot from the heat as each hop addition is made, stirring as you do so.

 

[Bob_Loblaw]

Hey All

I threw this one down on Saturday 3rd January and started noticing some weird rubbery off tastes after a couple of days. I started thinking yeast autolysis, but kept it going and dry-hopped on Sunday 10th January with 15g of Galaxy. After reading up a bit about autolysis it seems it would be such a vile taste/smell that I couldn't even get near it. I tasted it yesterday and the rubbery taste has just about vanished, but I can barely detect any Galaxy taste, and no aroma even after dry-hopping.

I followed the recipe below:

Recipe: 109 Stone & Wood Pacific Ale
Style: American Pale Ale
TYPE: Extract

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 23.00 L
Estimated OG: 1.038 SG
Estimated Color: 4.9 EBC
Estimated IBU: 20.8 IBU

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
1.50 kg Coopers Liquid Light Extract (3.5 EBC) Extract 50.00 %
1.50 kg Coopers Liquid Wheat Malt Extract (4.2 EBC) Extract 50.00 %
10.00 gm Galaxy [13.40 %] (20 min) Hops 11.0 IBU
15.00 gm Galaxy [13.40 %] (10 min) Hops 9.9 IBU
20.00 gm Galaxy [13.40 %] (0 min) Hops -
1 Pkgs American Ale US05 Yeast-Ale

Bring
4L of water and approx 520g of the light extract to the boil. Add 10g Galaxy hops, after 10 minutes add another 15g Galaxy hops, after another 10 minutes take off the heat and add the final 20g Galaxy Hops. I usually put the lid on the pot for the last 2 minutes so that the steam sterilizes the lid.

While this is boiling add a few litres of water to the fermenter and then the rest of the malt extract, stir thoroughly. Cool the pot in a sink of cold water and then add to the fermenter (I don't strain the hops out). Top up to 23L. Pitch the yeast and ferment at 18C. I bottled after 3 weeks.

The only thing I can think affected it was that I re-hydrated the US05 in warm water and then pitched into the 18C fermenter after stirring vigorously to aerate the wort. Maybe I've done something to the yeast when re-hydrating? I usually just sprinkle from the packet and forget it, but I thought as I'd bought the better yeast I should put in a bit more effort. I followed the rest of this recipe to the letter.

Anyone had this issue with this recipe?

Unfortunately I didn't take any hydro samples as I dropped my hydrometer the day before putting the brew down and smashed it. I'm going to cold crash tonight and keg it on Saturday night so we'll see how it goes. If it still has a weak flavour by then I might just smash it with the remaining galaxy pellets in the freezer...

UPDATE.

So after dry-hopping and cold crashing for a full week, the rubbery off taste was still present. I kegged it and gassed it up hoping that might make a difference to no avail. The S&W fruitiness is not there and it tastes like water out of a rubber tube. The only thing I can think of is that I've done something to the yeast when I re-hydrated it in warm water (maybe too warm) and this has tainted the beer.

Anyway, I'm going to try it again and alter the hop schedule a bit to have more galaxy going in later in the boil. This time I'm just going to sprinkle the dried yeast on top after stirring vigourously.

 

[Matplat]

So I finally put down my above recipe last night after having to wait an agonising 2 weeks for the hops to arrive! The seller ended up having to re-send the package, due to auspost eff-up!

All went pretty well I think, I got the wort down to about 27deg within about 20 mins before tipping into the FV, and having my pre-boiled/cooled water sitting at 10deg in the fermentation fridge meant that after dissolving all tins etc in the FV and topping up, temp was perfect at around 17deg for pitching. Straight into the fermenting fridge set at 20 deg.

The only thing that wasn't great was the amount of boil-off during the boil, I reckon I would have lost at least 1litre if not 1.5! I don't know what you can do about that, as I'm aware that leaving the lid on is a no-no. Also I think I put too much Dextrose in (0.4kg), I am concerned that the ABV will be get too high and ferment will stall, but we shall see how the sachet of s-04 yeast handles it. OG came out almost spot on at 1.052 compared with 1.055 predicted.

I could smell the spent hops in the bin this morning.... seriously a bin has never smelt that good! I reckon Citra could go pretty close to the galaxy aroma, because S&W was the beer I immediately thought of when I smelled the hops....

 

[Matplat]

Oh yeah, this was my final version of the recipe, I changed the hop additions slightly to get the most out of the bittering properties of the citra....

 

[Nizmoose]

1.5L boil off sounds bang on to me! Giving a pacific ale recipe a go tomorrow morning will post here during!

 

[Matplat]

So my brew has been in the fermenter for 6 days now... And I just opened it up to add 25g Amarillo dry hop and then take hydro sample.

OG was 1.052 and so far it has only reached 1.030. Does that sound right, I've read people saying they've nearly reached FG in 5 days sometimes.... So I was expecting to be a bit closer than 1.030? There is still good air-lock action and I dropped the temp to ferment at 17-18 after reading a bit more about S-04 which would have slowed things down a bit, and I only sprinkled the yeast on instead of re-hydrating, so I may be worrying about nothing.... but just wondered peoples thoughts on it all?

Cheers, Matt

 

[Matplat]

The other thing about it was the hydro sample tasted awesome!!!!

Very bitter, which I assume will mellow with conditioning, but super tasty hop flavour provided I can get the gravity over the line, I will be one happy camper

 

[paulyman]

I wouldn't stress at the moment it sounds like it's still happy and active. If it is still at 1.030 in a fe days then it may have stalled, give the fermenter a gentle swirl to get the yeast back into suspension and up the temp in the fridge a degree or 2.