Stone & Wood Pacific Ale

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I've been toying with trying to make something like this. I was more leaning to
20L batch
2 can Morgans extra pale (or as 1 extra pale with 1 wheat).
25gm Galaxy 15 minutes 22IBUs
20g Dry Hop

Will take on board peoples comments about dry hop. I was gonna hit it after krausen, but considering the comments. I know there's some wheat content, but thinking 2 extra pale cans would give that uber light colour. (I have some caramel wheat which I toyed with hitting 250gms with, but its not the right flavour.)

There is defintely a grassy hint to the S&W, albeit very subtle.
 
I've dry hopped with Galaxy, left it for 4 days and it came out fine. No grassy notes.
 
After krausen was what I was thinking. beabout 4 days before bottling at that stage . it will have more alcohol to dissolve the pellets, disperse the flavor and aroma. won't escape out of the airlock as much as when it's peak of co2 in fermentation and chance of infection is slim.
open to hear what others think.
I'm using 1kg wheat malt. 1kg light malt. 500g Amber malt and 500 dextrose. Slightly darker colour more what I want and slightly different flavor. Otherwise it's the same. No kit for me, all extract and no extra grains.
 
I dry hopped with Galaxy at around 3.5g/L for a S&W clone and it was magical. I used flowers though, and have had less success dry hopping with Galaxy pellets.

Basically I let if ferment for a week, then put half the hops in a hop bag with a weight, tied some fishing line on it and lowered into the fermenter. Pulled it out after 2-3 days and then repeated with the second half.

That was only my second or third brew though, I would probably be more likely to do something like half during end of ferment and then the second lot during cold conditioning maybe.
 
wasn't too overpowering like that? I'd imagine the aroma would kick you hard in the face!
why the stepped approach? why not all at once?
 
RJB510 said:
wasn't too overpowering like that? I'd imagine the aroma would kick you hard in the face!
why the stepped approach? why not all at once?
I thought it was about the same level of aroma as a stubby of Pacific Ale, but may be overpowering for some.

The idea of splitting up the hop additions is to avoid grassy notes by dry hopping too much for too long. I usually do it for anything that I dry hop with 3g/L or over (i.e. IPAs).. whether it's actually necessary every time I don't know, but I would prefer to spend a little bit of time dicking around hoisting out hop bags than ending up with a beer that tastes like a wheatgrass shot.
 
I can't wait to try earles s&w pacific ale recipie it will be 2 weeks since I put it down on Monday. Crash chill and bottle on Friday. Don't think I will be able to wait the usual month to try it though!!!??
 
Galaxy is defiantly the go for this one. I actually added 50g of Galaxy flowers to the brew 4 days before bottling it. It had turned out amazing and the aroma and flavour is powerful, just the way I like it being the hop head I am. In previous methods of dry hopping I have noticed that I have lost a bit of the aroma through the airlock so I now dry hop later than earlier.
 
Hey fella's how are we?

I'm looking to knock this badboy out as I've never actually done an extract brew (I went straight from K&K to all-grain) so I thought I'd do this for sh!ts and giggles. As for the IBU target for this beer of around 20, I punched in all the nessessary data into Beersmith and with those quanties of hop at that boil duration, the total IBU was going to sit at 13 or so. I used the IBU toggle and brought it up to 20 and saw that the hop weight increased by 5g on all 3 additions.

I'm just looking to find out if it's worth keeping the recipe as it is or to go for the IBU target stated?

Cheers,
Mitch.
 
To be honest, I think I've read the IBU target for this beer is about 16 or 18. Could be wrong, but she's pretty light on. I made a beer the missus dubbed Passiona that was 11IBU by Beersmith due to shortening a boil. Was bloody delicious. Reckon it was far off S&W, just lacked a bit of bitterness. I think your hop schedule looks good. Mind you, I'm just about to put an AG down that is 20g 15, 20g 10, 30g 0, & 20g dry hop 5 days, just to get a bit more punch.
 
I really should have a go at that original recipe, except that I love the one that I amped up a bit. Had a crack at it twice, and both times I dry hopped for two weeks plus. I have the passionfruit and I have been lucky enough not to get the Banana skins that Nick speaks of. Both times my hop schedule (pellets) was 20G @ 40mins, 15g @ 25, 15g @ 10 all in a 6l boil. The first batch was dry hopped with only 10g while the 2nd was 15 g, both were 21 litres with 1.5 kg LME and 1.5kg WME. threw in 250g of spec grains for good measure.
 
I did on the other week and i tasted it the other day after 2 weeks in the bottle. i thought it needed more hops but i havnt drank it side by side with the original.
I am currently doing take 2 with a different boil but it made a bloody great beer anyway.
my recipe was:
2 cans coopers light
250g wheat malt - 20mins at 70 degrees then strained into fermenter
50g galaxy 30g - 25mins 10g - 10 mins later and 10g at flameout.
yeast us 05.
 
Mitcho89 said:
Hey fella's how are we?
I'm looking to knock this badboy out as I've never actually done an extract brew (I went straight from K&K to all-grain) so I thought I'd do this for sh!ts and giggles. As for the IBU target for this beer of around 20, I punched in all the nessessary data into Beersmith and with those quanties of hop at that boil duration, the total IBU was going to sit at 13 or so. I used the IBU toggle and brought it up to 20 and saw that the hop weight increased by 5g on all 3 additions.

I'm just looking to find out if it's worth keeping the recipe as it is or to go for the IBU target stated?
Cheers,
Mitch.
Hi Mitch,
The recipe in the original post is actually mine and was prepared in beersmith. I'm not sure why you're getting a different ibu. Sometimes beersmith is a bit funny for kit and extract brews. If you post your your recipe from beersmith maybe I can see where the difference is coming from.

Cheers
Earle
 
earle said:
Hi Mitch,
The recipe in the original post is actually mine and was prepared in beersmith. I'm not sure why you're getting a different ibu. Sometimes beersmith is a bit funny for kit and extract brews. If you post your your recipe from beersmith maybe I can see where the difference is coming from.

Cheers
Earle
If you both punch in the harvest %AA, and use different boil volumes, the IBU will be different. Maybe that is why.
 
I've just started drinking S&W's Pacific Ale recently after discovering it on tap at my local. I couldn't believe the passion fruit taste it had. I loved it and thought they had either added the fruit itself or used a Belgium saison yeast. So that taste comes from the Galaxy hops? Good to know, I'll be sure to pick some up as I have just started using my own hops in my kit + bits brewing.

Would a galaxy pale ale (such as the fresh wort kits I can buy at my LHBS) have a similar taste then?
 
Hi guys, sorry for the noob questions here but I have been chasing Stone & Wood Pacific Ale for ages, can't buy it where I live (nearest is Dan Murphy's 2 hours away and don't think they have it in stock) and I stumbled across this post.

I've never homebrewed before, is this an easy one to make? Or more advanced?

Also what are the costs and where can I buy the Coopers stuff, aside from online? Is it available in supermarkets etc?

Would appreciate a reply, thanks heaps.

Michael
 
Hi msabell

S&W PA is a lovely beer, I first had it on tap while travelling through Byron Bay and later got hold of a six pack from a bottle shop - don't remember if it was Dan Murphy's or not.

I agree with menoetes comment above and couldn't believe the passionfruit notes. Better on tap but the bottled stuff is close.

I would strongly recommend that you do not buy the Coopers extracts from a supermarket - they are almost always old stock and very rarely will you find the Coopers premium extracts in a supermarket.

If you can't get to a specialist brew shop for your supplies, go the online root and they may be cheaper anyway if you shop around. But I always enjoy going to my local brew shop to buy my stuff and have a chat about making various brews.

If you don't have your brewing kit, it will cost you about $80 for the fermenter, hydrometer, steriliser and other essential odds and bobs. You can buy the additional stuff as you go.

For the brew ingredients, for similar that I have purchased from my local brew shop, it will cost you between $40 and $48 which will give you 23 litres at start of fermentation - and about 58 - 60 x 375 ml stubbies at the end after you have racked your brew once and left the gunk in the bottom of the fermenter at the end. For your first brew, I would also recommend that you follow the recipe exactly and do not skimp on the ingredients including the specialist yeast - they may a big difference and a good success at the start means that you are more likely to continue with the home brewing.

The recipe would be good one to kick off with - looks fairly simple to me and I am only up to my 9th kit and bits brews

Hope this helps

Cheers
Fred
 
Coopers stuff online (from Coopers) is well priced and they offer discounted to free delivery at times, plus a members discount.
 
Hey Msabell,

Welcome, brewing isn't hard but like any new hobby you might stumble a few times along the way to making really nice beer. The equipment you need is most likely available from your local kmart or big W, or from coopers as Indica said or even check ebay and gumtree to see if someone in your area is selling off their old equipment cheap.

Stone and Wood Pacific Ale is one of my favourite beers too. SInce my post here last year I have made a few clone/copy beers and have come really close to the taste of the real thing. It's actually an easy beer to copy, for instance, here is a super simple (and affordable) list of ingrediants to make 23 liters (just over 2 cartons) of something that tastes pretty close to it at home.

1 x coopers lager kit (not the european lager kit just the plain lager kit) - $12.95
1 x 1.5kg tin of coopers liquid wheat malt (or 1kg of Dry light malt) - $11.00
50g of Galaxy hops (you can get 110g bags off hop dealz aust. for $6.60) - $03.30
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total $27.25
Postage for all this stuff online $20.00

So you can see that postage is almost as much as the ingrediants themselves, so if you have a way of getting to a local homebrew shop (your nearest HBS is in Sale I think) you will be able to cut postage off of that price list. Mind you some kmarts and Big W's (and the odd woolworths) stock the lager kits and maybe even the dry malt as well as the brewing equipment.

It gives you an idea of how cheap homebrewing can be after the initial small outlay for equipment and this is just the simplest way of making it I know of. In time a novice brewer could try a slightly more complicated recipe with steeped grains and a better strain of yeast, that would get them even closer to the taste of the real thing.

That and brewing is just a great manly hobby :D
 

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