Stc 1000 In Pictures

[philmud]

I don't want to be the best earth path! By benefit of the doubt, I don't mean I'll trust his wiring, I just mean I trust that with better initial info, he'd have done the job correctly, though, as you say, I'm surprised he didn't figure it out.

I can see what needs to be done now!

 

[Screwtop]

Haha, cheers gents, after I posted last night I did see a post a few topics down that addressed this, so apologies for being repetitive. One further question, my BiL cut the earth wires, saying they weren't necessary as the STC casing is plastic. All the diagrams I've seen have earth wires connected, presumably, if I fixed the active/neutral wiring but left the earth disconnected, the fridge won't be earthed? Is this correct?

Edit: Screwy, I did read your instructions re: the earth wires, just wanting confirmation that my BiL's reasoning that the STC is housed in plastic is ignoring the fact that the fridge at least, needs to be earthed.

Phil, the STC unit does not require earthing, thus no earth connection/terminal. However the earth from the GPO (power outlet) must be extended to the outlets. This is why only two earth wires are extended from the inlet cable, one to each outlet cable.

If using a fridge as the cooling device this must be earthed, the lead will contain three conductors and will have an earth pin on the plug. If using a lamp for instance in the fridge as a heating device then this will most likely only have two conductors in the cable (active and neutral) and will not have an earth pin in the plug. Fridges are earthed, one of the reasons ceiling fluro's in kitchens are required to be earthed is because people stand on fridges (earthed cabinet) to change tubes :blink:

Screwy

 

[angus_grant]

I assume your sparky mate is clued on enough to look at the wiring diagram on the unit itself?

THAT WIRING DIAGRAM ABOVE IS WRONG!

Also if he just cut off the Earth leads he is a ********. As you said, you need them joined for the fridge to have the earth circuit.

Edit: Here is my wiring pic, all that is different is the heat and cool are reverse. So you dont actually need to change anything, just update the output names.

stc1000heat.jpg

Thanks Kev. Your diagram saved me from asking a question somewhere.

I was wondering why it needed 2 power leads coming into the unit. Given that the STC switches between heating and cooling automatically surely you just need 1 power lead coming in and throw it to all 3 power inputs for STC.

If the STC craps out (fuses both relays at once) and heats and cools at the same time it will still be drawing the same current through your house wiring regardless of 1 power input or 2. From vague memory of my fridges I don't think they pull that many amps so should be under the 10 amp rating of most normal house wiring. I can check that tonight.

Cheers!

 

[Screwtop]

If the STC craps out (fuses both relays at once) and heats and cools at the same time it will still be drawing the same current through your house wiring regardless of 1 power input or 2. From vague memory of my fridges I don't think they pull that many amps so should be under the 10 amp rating of most normal house wiring. I can check that tonight.

Cheers!

Average fridge 1 hp, so around 750 watts or 3 amps.

 

[HalfWit]

Here is a helpful video....

 

[barls]

Here is a helpful video....

dodgy as.
twist wires together then heat shrink.
id highly recommend not following anything other than his wiring configuration and operation discription

 

[punkin]

Thanks very kindly for such a great explanation and pics Wolfy. Made the job very simple for me.

 

[Clutch]

Is there anyone in Brisbane who's qualified to wire these up and will do a cash job fitting one to my keezer?

 

[contrarian]

I posted this in another thread but thought it might be more appropriate to this thread.

Instead of starting yet another stc-1000 thread I thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any ideas.

I've hooked it up following the designs in this thread, double and triple checked it and everything seems to be fine. It is switching both heat and cool sides on and off relative to the measured temperature.

The problem is that after running for about 10 minutes the measured temperature goes completely haywire and starts reading 80-90C even though the probe is in a chesty running flat out. I'm wondering if the temp sensor is faulty but after going to Jaycar and dick smith it doesn't look like it will be easy to get another sensor to test the theory... Any ideas?

 

[QldKev]

I posted this in another thread but thought it might be more appropriate to this thread.

Instead of starting yet another stc-1000 thread I thought I'd post here to see if anyone has any ideas.

I've hooked it up following the designs in this thread, double and triple checked it and everything seems to be fine. It is switching both heat and cool sides on and off relative to the measured temperature.

The problem is that after running for about 10 minutes the measured temperature goes completely haywire and starts reading 80-90C even though the probe is in a chesty running flat out. I'm wondering if the temp sensor is faulty but after going to Jaycar and dick smith it doesn't look like it will be easy to get another sensor to test the theory... Any ideas?

refer the other thread

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/45747-stc-1000-temp-controller/page-27#entry1038104

 

[Logman]

Is the wiring of a non STC that doesn't auto switch from hot to cold (but looks the same) identical to an STC1000?

 

[QldKev]

Post a pic of the wiring diagram that is on it so we can verify it

 

[Logman]

Will try to hunt the diagram down today, it was a couple of years back when I got it. I always just used one of the non switchers for the fridge (it's got a hot and cold socket), but it's cold enough on the coast ATM that I've got a heatpad in the fridge. I've also got an STC as a spare unwired so was going to switch that over.

I guess the diagram might be on Ebay now that you mention it.

Edit - Found it in the fermenting room - same set of instructions :beerbang:

 

[punkin]

Bumping to the top

 

[Robrock]

Got my stc 1000 in the mail today about 30 mins later it's wired and being used . Happy to help with any questions . Best thing I bought re controlling brewing temp

 

[Nullnvoid]

I have a chest freezer which I have been using to keep my home brew at a constant level. I was wondering if the st-1000 is suitable to go on a freezer, or whether it's only suitable for a fridge?

 

[elcarter]

I have a chest freezer which I have been using to keep my home brew at a constant level. I was wondering if the st-1000 is suitable to go on a freezer, or whether it's only suitable for a fridge?

Mine works perfectly on the beer chest freezer.

 

[Nullnvoid]

Thanks elcarter. Good to know!

 

[MartinOC]

I have a chest freezer which I have been using to keep my home brew at a constant level. I was wondering if the st-1000 is suitable to go on a freezer, or whether it's only suitable for a fridge?

As long as you don't exceed the 10A limit on the internal relays, it's all sweet.

 

[acrow]

deleted - as sorted in different post.