Starsan

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Goodbeer

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G'day Brewers

Noticed when bottling last batch my Starsan mix became a bit cloudy/milky towards end of bottling...didn't notice at first but once I was pulling caps out of it it was quite noticeable.

Last night was bottling again, noticed it again. Had a look in the bottle and there is a brown chunk of something in the bottle...anybody seen anything like it before?

The last batch is fine so seems it is still doing it's job.

Cheers ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1491592087.407682.jpg
 
That's just a bit of crap in the bottle. Don't worry.

Starsan turns milky when it runs out of magic.

The instructions on the bottle will mention thus. Nothing to worry about.
 
spryzie said:
Starsan turns milky when it runs out of magic.
Not quite right. If you add starsan to Adelaide water it turns milky straight away but is fully useable. The best indication is the pH level, test and if in the range of 1-3 is still ok.
 
I made up a fresh batch of starsan the other day and it was instantly milky. Wondered what was going on? Really should do get a ph meter one day.
 
Curly79 said:
I made up a fresh batch of starsan the other day and it was instantly milky. Wondered what was going on? Really should do get a ph meter one day.
Yep, noticed the same thing with plastic rainwater up here. Can't be a problem with rainwater.

Not particularly fussed about it as long as it does its job.
 
Curly79 said:
I made up a fresh batch of starsan the other day and it was instantly milky. Wondered what was going on? Really should do get a ph meter one day.
You can get a book of 80 pH strips on eBay for about a buck including postage.
 
I read somewhere that the milkiness is caused by one of the surfactants in Starsan dropping out of solution. You can see it collecting at the bottom of a vessel if you leave it sitting for a while. It happens quicker in water that has more crap in it (excuse my chemistry ignorance). Hence why Starsan made with distilled water will stay clear and effective for longer.
 
I use cool boiled rain water and the only time I've had a milky colour, I put down to not enough rinsing beforehand on the items being soaked.
The same batch in a spray bottle was clear.
 
The surfactant in Starsan (sodium dodecyl sulphate aka sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), commonly found in shampoo) is apparently reasonably easily oxidised, forming dodecanol. Dodecanol is less soluble than SLS and also reacts with calcium phosphate forming hydroxy apatite (the stuff your teeth are made from).

Putting these togerther, hard water and oxygen will cause the Starsan to go cloudy.

The first is probably not a problem, the second is more likely to cause issues: the surfactant is the part that does the heavy lifting, if it degrades the sanitising effect will be diminished.

Measuring pH won't tell you anything useful.
 
Lyrebird_Cycles said:
Measuring pH won't tell you anything useful.
So Five Star Chemicals and all sellers that advise that if the pH is below 3 the sanitiser is still effective are not correct or if it is correct then I suggest it is useful information to the user.
 
Lyrebird_Cycles said:
Putting these togerther, hard water and oxygen will cause the Starsan to go cloudy.
So boiling water first might help a bit. If nothing else, it will drive off some oxygen, although I believe that boiling water can help with water hardness too, in some cases.
 
grott said:
I use Diggers demineralised water from Coles, $3.12 for 4 litres. Is crystal clear with starsan.
Do you add 6ml (1.5mL/L) starsan to the 4L bottle, then keep topping up a 1L sprayer as required over a period of a few months? Do you think it would it keep well enough in the 4L?
 
Yes 6ml for the 4 litres and it keeps for ages (months). Top up spray bottle as required and I put some into a large jar to use for other sanitation needs, pouring back into the jar for reuse.
 
grott said:
So Five Star Chemicals and all sellers that advise that if the pH is below 3 the sanitiser is still effective are not correct or if it is correct then I suggest it is useful information to the user.
As I understand it that's the wrong way around: a pH below 3 is a necessary, but not sufficient, criterion for effectiveness.

The SLS works as a membrane disrupter if the pH is below 3 but if the SLS has degraded the pH won't tell you that.
 
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