Specific gravity not changing

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How was it?
tasted allright, i was hesitant to keg it as it was the highest FG i had ever done but with kegs you have the safety valve so not a big issue, but it stayed on 1020 for about 7 days before i kegged it.

just pulled the entry from my log,

it was this one,
19/07/2017 black rock golden 2 cans black rock golden, 2kg lme, .5kg wheat extract 40L 20DEG SG1055 04/08/17 FG1020 primed 100gm per keg
 
tasted allright, i was hesitant to keg it as it was the highest FG i had ever done but with kegs you have the safety valve so not a big issue, but it stayed on 1020 for about 7 days before i kegged it.

just pulled the entry from my log,

it was this one,
19/07/2017 black rock golden 2 cans black rock golden, 2kg lme, .5kg wheat extract 40L 20DEG SG1055 04/08/17 FG1020 primed 100gm per keg
Thanks mat
tasted allright, i was hesitant to keg it as it was the highest FG i had ever done but with kegs you have the safety valve so not a big issue, but it stayed on 1020 for about 7 days before i kegged it.

just pulled the entry from my log,

it was this one,
19/07/2017 black rock golden 2 cans black rock golden, 2kg lme, .5kg wheat extract 40L 20DEG SG1055 04/08/17 FG1020 primed 100gm per keg
Was it a normal strength alcohol-wise? Sorry to be a pain!
 
If OG: 1055 and FG: 1010 it should be about 6% abv.
 
Thanks mat

Was it a normal strength alcohol-wise? Sorry to be a pain!
nah your right,

i recall it was prolly somewhere in the 4.x range, doesnt stand out from memory, it was one of those batches that tasted better after longer racking. so rockers calc would be close to the mark.
 
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I have fermenting a Muntons Yorkshire Bitter (yes I'm a Yorkie!) with 1kg LDME from LHBS. This my first HB attempt in over 30 years and I'm excited by the progress in HB techniques and tools in particular temp controllers, spray sanitisers and kegging abilities. Anyway I pitched at 20 c, yeast range is 18 to 21 c, temp controlled in a fridge at 19.5c and after 3 and half days the airlock has stopped bubbling but gravity reading has been 1020 for 2 days now. OG was 1059. In your experiences could the FG still drop down another 11 or 12 points down to 1008 like the kit states ?( BTW the kit asked for 1kg brewing sugar not LDME.)
 
I have fermenting a Muntons Yorkshire Bitter (yes I'm a Yorkie!) with 1kg LDME from LHBS. This my first HB attempt in over 30 years and I'm excited by the progress in HB techniques and tools in particular temp controllers, spray sanitisers and kegging abilities. Anyway I pitched at 20 c, yeast range is 18 to 21 c, temp controlled in a fridge at 19.5c and after 3 and half days the airlock has stopped bubbling but gravity reading has been 1020 for 2 days now. OG was 1059. In your experiences could the FG still drop down another 11 or 12 points down to 1008 like the kit states ?( BTW the kit asked for 1kg brewing sugar not LDME.)
Sorry I can't add any advice mate but interested to know how it turns out. My mrs is from Middlesbrough so I should probably make one too
 
Assuming the Muntons kits are about the same size as Coopers, how did you manage an OG of 1.059 with a kit and kilo? What volume did you make the brew to? If you made it to 23 litres then your OG would be about 1.040. I wouldn't take any notice of what the kits say the FG should be, they're obviously based on a particular fermentable make up and you aren't likely to get to 1.008 with 1kg of LDM. However, the beer will taste a lot better than using brewing sugar.

Check your hydrometer in 20C water and see what it reads; it should be 1.000, anything above or below that and you'll have to either subtract or add the difference to each reading.
 
Seems fine measuring water at zero I wonder if I misread the OG as it was late at night as I waited for the wort to cool before pitching. The LDME was named a "#20 booster" suitable for strong ales so not sure if that could explain the high OG. I have emailed the HB supplier asking what's the difference between the 1kg LDME boosters they sell i.e #10 & #15 boosters, unless anyone on here knows?
 
To calculate Alcohol By Volume (ABV) its just the change in gravity/7.5
so from 1.050 to 1.020 you have a change of 30 (points) / 7.5 = 4%
For 1.050 to 1.010 you have a change of 40 so 40/7.5 = 5.3333%
Simple little equation that is well worth every brewer remembering - or tattooing on the inside of your eyelids...
The "Points" way of expressing gravity is just a handy way to play with the numbers, and the 7.5 is an approximation
7.53 is closer and the standard form of the equation is (OG-FG)/0.00753 = ABV%
or as above (1.050-1.020)/0.00753 = 3.98%
Which ever way you do it well worth being familiar with it.
Mark
 
Seems fine measuring water at zero I wonder if I misread the OG as it was late at night as I waited for the wort to cool before pitching. The LDME was named a "#20 booster" suitable for strong ales so not sure if that could explain the high OG. I have emailed the HB supplier asking what's the difference between the 1kg LDME boosters they sell i.e #10 & #15 boosters, unless anyone on here knows?

1kg is 1kg, all of them pretty much provide the same gravity in a given amount of water. 1kg of one of them added to a kit isn't gonna make the batch 1.040 while replacing it with 1kg of a different one makes it 19 points higher. They'll all be around the same. The only way to increase the gravity is to add more fermentables, or reduce the volume of the batch. The difference in the "boosters" is just the makeup of the different things they use in them, i.e. dry malt extract, maltodextrin and dextrose. Some may also contain wheat malt. They all contain different percentages of these ingredients.

How many litres was the batch volume?
 
According to the instructions that used to come with the Coopers kits, the number to divide by is 7.46. So the equation is (O.G.-F.G.)/7.46
There is actually a noticeable difference between LDME and dextrose. I think LDME will give a similar gravity to sugar, whereas dextrose will give a lower gravity. I have the numbers written down somewhere. Looking for them at the moment. I typically bulk prime with 5 grams of sugar per litre. If I try and bulk prime with 5 grams of dextrose a litre my carbonation is practically non existent.
 
I found an online calculator that says you multiply the number by 131.25.

So 1.050-1.020 = 0.03 x 131.25 = 3.9375.
 
The "on-line" calculator is in effect using 7.62, coopers kit say 7.46, most people use 7.5 (because its easy to remember?) one of my brewing textbook says 7.53.
In any case the results (say 4%) are probably well inside the measurement error of a home hydrometer.

Glucose Mono-Hydrate (Dextrose) comes in at ~91% solids, so yes it will give a lower OG than most other common dry adjuncts. Mind you it isn't going to make all that much difference, in a 23L brew a 1.7kg kit will give 1.36kg of solids (~80%), add 1kg of DME and you have 2.36kg's or 2.27Kg's in solution for adding Dextrose, roughly a 4% lower OG.

5g/l Sucrose and 5g/l Dextrose same thing ~4% less fizz from the dextrose, not really a matter of concern.
1g of fermentable gives 0.468g of CO2, 5g/l gives 2.34g/l, bit low even for UK Pale Ale (typically 3-4g/l) so if you drop off the fizz a titch its likely to be pretty obvious.
Mark
 
1kg is 1kg, all of them pretty much provide the same gravity in a given amount of water. 1kg of one of them added to a kit isn't gonna make the batch 1.040 while replacing it with 1kg of a different one makes it 19 points higher. They'll all be around the same. The only way to increase the gravity is to add more fermentables, or reduce the volume of the batch. The difference in the "boosters" is just the makeup of the different things they use in them, i.e. dry malt extract, maltodextrin and dextrose. Some may also contain wheat malt. They all contain different percentages of these ingredients.

How many litres was the batch volume?
I made 23 litres.
 
Yeah, no way you'd get 1.059 OG from a kit and kilo in 23 litres. You're looking more around 1.038-39, maybe 1.040-41 depending on the size of the Muntons kit.

Also, if kegging don't worry about priming sugar if you're carbonating from a gas cylinder. Don't need it. Actually one of my favorite things about kegging, not stressing about whether the bloody things are warm enough for carbonation to occur.
 
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