SOLVED - Brand new Buffalo urn won't reach rolling boil

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Rambo said:
Glad you got it sorted Hathro. Although I'm happy with my boil at this stage, some discussions on another thread (the pistol pat BIAB podcast) has got me thinking I should be looking for a more vigorous boil. If you have time could you post where you got your parts from and what is require for this mod? Cheers
Rambo just on this. I have spoken to Pat specifically re the boil and vigour on electric urns. Seems To not matter too much, although you don't want cutouts if you can, which those mods Hathro pointed out fix.

The urns we have though are all 2400 watt elements, so compared to a propane burner will never have the same input of energy into your kettle. The upside is we are pretty well regulated on heat input, whereas wind and gas valve settings will affect boil off or evaporation rates from brew to brew in propane. So we may expect more consistency of boil or evaporation as compared to propane but less evaporation.

Anyway I use Pat's Biabicus, and have found my hourly evaporation rate is about 3.6litres per hour, where his software allows a default of around 5.6 or so. After a chat seems for urns at least to adjust your expected evaporation rate down as we will never achieve what a gas burner can.

Bottom line though is final outcome and quality of brew shouldn't be affected be it electric or propane heat source.
 
How long does it take to get from 15-20C water to strike temp ~66C in these?
Also how long to a rolling boil?
 
I've got one of these and it's more like around 40 minutes for me.
I'm down Geelong way so a bit cooler than Perth no doubt.
 
Making wort in them probably voids the warranty. They are not guaranteed to boil continuously but with a little help they do ;)
 
Why would making wort in them void warranty? They are sold as a water boiler, we are just boiling sugary water.
 
DU99 said:
:icon_offtopic: wouldn't these mod's void the warranty
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/78765-solved-brand-new-buffalo-urn-wont-reach-rolling-boil/page-2#entry1173078

If you need to make a warranty claim, mods 1 and 2 can be reversed (just screw in items).

Mod 3 can also be done but it depends on your ability to make it look "factory".

There are that few working parts in this urn that I doubt you would ever need to make a warranty claim - it would be something you could fix with the above mods.
 
hathro said:
All this info came from bundy so big cheers to him!

1. Added some insulation between the bottom of the urn and the temperature probe

TqwEU.jpg


After.

86GEa.jpg


2. Replaced the cutout sensor to a 130ºC one

Instructions: http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=42675

Part required: [SIZE=11pt]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350769820823?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649[/SIZE]

3. Replaced the thermal fuse with a 170ºC one

Instructions: http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=42675&sid=be5677f4d05a101b4ad6d239831cfbbd&start=15

Part required: [SIZE=11pt]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300604641346?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649[/SIZE]

The eBay links might be dead, can't check them at work. Will update later.
Is that just Silicone insulating the temperature probe?
 
To combat cut out due to wort scorching on element can I put a silicone coating on element or is there a better way?
 
Cut out is due to high temperature, which is not exclusively caused by scorched wort. Best to do the mods above.
 
cant get a 130c NC temp switch locally, only a 183c, any issues in using this?
dont want to wait a month to get one from HK

cheers
 
lukasfab said:
cant get a 130c NC temp switch locally, only a 183c, any issues in using this?
dont want to wait a month to get one from HK

cheers
Hi lukasfab,

You could put it in but at 183'C you may as well just bypass or remove the Switch all together as 183'c is too high a temp and its not going to do it's job. (you'd probably have a fire before you got to that temp!) :)

So if you are in a rush, bypass the Switch (Join the 2 wires together) and you are away. (Then order form HK and when it comes in replace it.

Or try ring a few local electronics suppliers. Decent electronics shops like Radio spares, Altronics, Jaycar should stock these things, or I just did a quick ebay search for you and there's a guy in Melbourne selling them also

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/THERMAL-SWITCH-TEMPERATURE-135-deg-N-C-12V-24V-250V-10A-/281215376844
 
bundy said:
Hi lukasfab,

You could put it in but at 183'C you may as well just bypass or remove the Switch all together as 183'c is too high a temp and its not going to do it's job. (you'd probably have a fire before you got to that temp!) :)

So if you are in a rush, bypass the Switch (Join the 2 wires together) and you are away. (Then order form HK and when it comes in replace it.

Or try ring a few local electronics suppliers. Decent electronics shops like Radio spares, Altronics, Jaycar should stock these things, or I just did a quick ebay search for you and there's a guy in Melbourne selling them also

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/THERMAL-SWITCH-TEMPERATURE-135-deg-N-C-12V-24V-250V-10A-/281215376844



cheers bundy!!

must have missed that one
cant find a 130 locally, will get that one from east
 
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