Single Vessel Electric Brew Rig Build

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My question is why do the Braucloners want a grain bed, where this setup appears to disturb the bed, creating a mash stirring system?

Cant speak for the others that have built rigs in a similar style to mine, but for me i'm not trying to get a grain bed. Quite the opposite actually.

I remember reading about some (not all) biab'ers experiencing loss of efficiency. I thought, well i need to keep the temp of the mash relatively stable, and if i stir it regularly i should be able to increase efficiency too. So if i put a return tube for the wort that releases it down into the grain, the temp should eventually remain stable (once the rig equalises) and this action should also resemble some kind of stirring benefit too.

I am coming from a 3v brewery, so i'm familiar with grain beds for clarity and lautering etc...I am more than happy to lose some clarity, to gain simplicity on my brewday provided my efficiency is not too different.

Typical efficiency for me into the fermenter on my 3V is 83%. Used the single vessel last brewday for the first time (without the aluminium basket though) and landed on 82%. Drained and squeezed the bag, and poured maybe 4-6litres over the top of the bag hoping to extract some trapped sugars. This time though using the basket, i'll be able to open the bag with the basket hanging off my pulley, and pour the sparge water straight through the grain. I'm expecting a higher efficiency next brewday (this weekend). Not necessarily a big increase, but i'm sure i'll hit 85%, in which case i'll be stoked.

Based on a wet run using just water, i'll be able to knock out two cubes in 3.5hrs or less, and bugger all to clean up and pack away.
 
My little brown pump may get reused then. Certainly sounds good, Having temp control & stirring in one. Bugger, I thought biab would quell my need to mess around with my brew gear!
 
...
So if i put a return tube for the wort that releases it down into the grain, the temp should eventually remain stable (once the rig equalises)
...
How far down does the return tube reach? I'm wondering whether you
might get channelling if it reaches quite far down.

Probably not an issue w.r.t. grain rinsing since it's a single vessel biab design
but I'm thinking if you do have a narrow channel flow down to the bottom,
the temperature spread might not be as good as it could be - ie. the temp
in/near the channel might be what you want it but areas further away
(eg. near the strainer walls) might be at a lower temp.

Could just make sure the return flows into a wort layer above the grain.
 
How far down does the return tube reach? I'm wondering whether you
might get channelling if it reaches quite far down.

Probably not an issue w.r.t. grain rinsing since it's a single vessel biab design
but I'm thinking if you do have a narrow channel flow down to the bottom,
the temperature spread might not be as good as it could be - ie. the temp
in/near the channel might be what you want it but areas further away
(eg. near the strainer walls) might be at a lower temp.

Could just make sure the return flows into a wort layer above the grain.

Yeah i've given that some thought too, and think it may be a valid point.

Current setup means that the tube sits "right down" in the mash. Probably stops 1inch away from the bottom of the basket.
But then again, being BIAB, my grain to liquor ratio is probably close to 8lt/kg. In a mash this loose, is channeling possible?
What i actually intend to do is copy the copper coil that was posted in this thread several posts back, that is in the shape of a spiral. Drill some small (or large?) holes in it after its shaped spiralling south down into the mash. That should enable better redistribution of wort, and therefore better stirring action as well as better (more accurate) temp control. With a bit of luck i might knock that up this weekend actually.
 
Nath, Id bung a cap over the end of it and drill the holes in.. no too many though to start..

If you have a spare bit of copper to experiment on I think you will find that the little brown pump will handle it well...

You could get almost a vertical spiral up the length of your pipe couldnt ya? That'd look sick :icon_drunk:

Yob
 
Nath, Id bung a cap over the end of it and drill the holes in.. no too many though to start..

If you have a spare bit of copper to experiment on I think you will find that the little brown pump will handle it well...

You could get almost a vertical spiral up the length of your pipe couldnt ya? That'd look sick :icon_drunk:

Yob

thanks yob, yeah i'd thought about doing that too. I might try that first and then if i think the coil would work better i'll give it a go then. I suppose nothing lost either way, as by using compression fittings i can just swap them over whenever i feel like it.

I'll just crimp the end of the tube shut in my vice and use my dremel to drill out some holes. Or a small drill bit.

cheers,

nath
 
as per yob's suggestion, i've drilled out some small holes in the wort return. Works heaps better now at distributing the wort and hopefully the heat, more evenly throughout the suspended mash in voile in basket.

Gonna brew on her this weekend, doing a simple, single batch Citra Ale - yummo!

Piccie:
New and Improved Wort Return:

Wort_return_improved.jpg
 
Just finished the thread Nath. Great setup mate well done. It's got me thinking. I'd be interested in seeing that video as well.
 
i have a digital camcorder so i can take a vid of it, but how do it post it here?
 
do you need to set up an account for youtube to be able to do this?

probably sounds like a dumb question but i've never uploaded a video before....
 
If you have Facebook you can log in to YouTube with that. I think you can log in with a Google account too (if you have gmail).

If not then make an account.
 
No videos yet?

Im very interested to see how this went.

BlackRat.
 
sorry dude, (and for all others that have shown interest). I wasn't able to brew on the weekend just gone.....wife was crook and i turned into babysitter for our two little tackers. Normally not a problem, but i want to have no distractions for the next time i use this rig so i can document everything properly. Hard to do when you're chasing two "brewery assistants" around the house.

Will definitely be brewing this weekend (maybe friday night) so i'll hopefully have something up by this time next week.

Cheers,

Nathan

EDIT: Gonna christen the new rig with a Galaxy Ale - 1050 OG, ale malt, carapils, some crystal for a little colour, and probably way too much Galaxy......
 
Very nice rig

I'm seeing more and more of these builds appear lately, and I think there are going to be more and more appearing, they just seem to make sense, kind of like a blinged up BIAB.

I'm thinking I'll be doing one of these soon.
 
this setup looks great

would it be a pain to do a list of the items required and cost

this looks to be exactly what I need to get brewing outside

how long does it take to get to strike temp and then to boil with those elements (depending on how much water)

great job
 
Nath that is freaking awesome.

You should sell them. I'd buy one.

If it were me I'd put some sort of cover or protection over the power board, I always manage to spill something somewhere.
 
Fecking Sexy BN... That shits gunna rock :wub:

ed: missed that update till just now :beerbang:
 
this setup looks great

would it be a pain to do a list of the items required and cost

this looks to be exactly what I need to get brewing outside

how long does it take to get to strike temp and then to boil with those elements (depending on how much water)

great job

@mikec - thanks mate, it's taken me a lot of thought as to how i wanted my single vessel to perform and initial testing and one batch it seems to be a good system. Not too dissimilar to a braumeister, but with enough change to be able to implement my own thoughts about how to extract those lovely sugars from my grains...
I've also thought about covering the "ghetto control board"(trademark :D ) with something, otherwise i may not live too long....In keeping with the ghetto tradition, i may just use a couple of right angle brackets with some more timber over the top as a roof.

@lukasfab - here's a basic run down of my parts list. Keep in mind, i've come from a 3V rig, and therefore had a lot of the parts already.

50lt (actually holds 56.5Lt's) Primus Stainless Pot - Camping World $109
Aluminium Crab Cooker Insert - $55.
(to support the bag, easier to pull with a pulley setup, and having the bag "open" in the basket when it's hanging means a quick sparge through the grains is way too easy...) This was from a local fishing shop who was prepared to sell it to me out of an aluminium crab cooker set.
Black Milk Crate - ummmmm,,,,,,,,you know the story.....
Ball Valves x 2 - One for drainage to wort return, the other for filling point, and draining to cubes. $30 for both???
Assorted brass compression fittings from bunnings (right angle x 2) for the lid fittings - thermowell, and wort return.
1 x brass t piece for the thermometer install underneath (less than $10)
1 x little brown pump - ebay or a better option is Gryphon Brewing when he gets them back in stock, which is imminent. $35approx.
2 x kmart kettle elements. (gut kettle, remove element, element seal, and plastic switch assembly) $18 total.
1 x stainless steel colander stolen from Mrs BigNath's kitchen. Not sure she knows about this part yet..... but you can buy them for less than $10 at kmart.
1 x stc1000 controller - ebay $25approx. delivered to your door.
1 x dial thermometer. (not necessary at all, i just thought i'd put it in to measure any discrepancy between the flow out of the bottom of the pot and the mash temp which is controlled by the stc probe in the thermowell.
Assorted brass fittings, some have been cut in half to join the thermo, pump etc system to the bottom ball valve. Was a bit tricky. Not sure of exactly the parts i used, as i had most of them lying around from previous "brewery renovation ideas" years ago... Wouldn't amount to much $$$
1 x length of hose (im about to upgrade to silicone) to get from back of the pump to the wort return port in the lid. Maybe $10, but silicone will most likely cost me closer to $20-30 - i need about 1.5meters.
1 x inline tap in the end of the wort return. This is so you can shut off flow temporarily with the pump still going to allow disconnection from the lid, and put in the laundry sink close to where i brew to drain hoses. Otherwise, even with the pump turned off, without an inline tap, fluid in the line can go everywhere once it gets removed from the lid, which is not good when it's so close to electricals.
2 x IEC power cords for the elements installed in the bottom of pot.
1 x pulley system put together from bit's of crap lying around. Maybe $20 worth of parts from bunnings.

Other assorted bits and pieces that i had lying around (brass fittings, flange nuts, rubber/silicone seals etc...)

Basically, it owes me $400 if i was going from scratch. BUT, i already had most of the brass fittings, I had the stc and the brown pump setup already. I already had the dial thermo, milk crate, colander, hoses, ball valves, inline tap etc.

Really the only thing i've spent money on are the pot itself, the crab cooker basket insert, voille bag/sheet, and the two elements. Everything else is recycled from my other setups...

One thing i've learnt about the build, is the value of a good dremel too with the attachments. A dremel will work through stainless stuff, retardedly quick and easy, and due to the nature of the tool, is very good at creating neat jobs. And when you've got 50kg's of water and malt sitting above two kmart elements, and a four board power strip, you want it water tight!

Regarding the elements and heating.....

I mash in with strike water from my hot water tap which comes out at pretty much mash temp, so i only need to heat it a few degrees to allow for temp loss when it meets the grain. Probably takes 3-5mins...I crush my grain fresh whilst this is happening, and the stc controls it so it's ready for when i am..

Getting from mash out at 78deg to boil took 23 minutes on it's maiden brew a few weeks ago. This is for a preboil volume of 46.5lt's.

I just control the boil by switching in and out, the second element. One element maintains a nice simmer, two elements makes leaping bubbles o' wort.

when i get home tonight i'll be fermenting the maiden brew i did a few weeks back, which will free up my cubes ready for the weekend's brewday on this single vessel rig.

Can't wait!

EDIT: Forgot to add, when brewday is done, i drain the kettle, disconnect from thermometer and pump assembly, hose out the hop and trub stuff, put back on stand, reconnect pump assembly, refill with hot water and run some citric acid through the rig for an hour or so while i have some beers. Come back and drain it, rinse, wipe out done - good as new.

I do this because where i live, we have big problems with calcium buildup on kettle elements. Once batch and i've got elements covered in white film. Citric recirculating bath does a great job of it.

EDIT #2: The only issue i have with this setup is with cleaning when you disconnect the thermo and pump t piece assembly, water and wort goes everywhere for a little bit. Probably lose about 50-100ml of fluids as the hose backwashes through the pump and out of the top of the t piece. Also, when it's disconnected, it just sit's on the ground inside the milkcrate, which is not an ideal situation, but it works. One day i'll have a better solution to this small inconvenience.
 
I've been doing quite a bit of research on this & other forums before I started buying bits & pieces to make my BIAB keggle, then I stumbled on this thread & your kick-ass system Big Nath. It is exactly what I had in mind, with a couple of added bits of awesome such as the wort return.

I hope you don't mind if I "borrow" your idea & design?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top