Simple dual temp controller

[Micko71]

Hey fellow Brewers. Just thought I'd show u a simple way to make a controller that's very functional and isn't too bad on the eye.

I first bought the left controller from China, then realised I got the wrong one as it only controls 1 thing at a time ( heating OR cooling) so I then found the stc 1000 which was in Aus so it arrived in a couple days.

I thought I might as well have them both working so I found the jiffy box and everything else at jaycar.

The left one is good for when it's cool weather. U can just throw a belt heater around a barrel , cover with a blanket and stick the sensor to the side. It will keep it at 20 or whatever u want within .2 deg or so.

The right side will control a fermenting fridge perfectly. Just cut the wire on the timer of the fridge first. Usually there's one that is separate from the rest. That's the one. This will prevent it going into defrost.

All up the box was about $24 and the cheap timer $13. The stc1000 $23.

Very good investment for perfect brewing temps.

If anyone needs a parts list or wiring diagram let me know and I'll jot it down & email it to u.

Cheers. Micko.

 

[SBOB]

why couldnt the STC1000 just do both fridge and heater (like most people do)? Seems like an extra controller for no reason

 

[Micko71]

Haha. Because as I said I bought the wrong one first. Might as well use it. it's handy for when I have a 3rd fv going that won't fit in the fridge. I only posted as 2 mates asked for the details so I thought it might help some other new Brewers.

 

[QldKev]

I would just have pointed them to one of the other stc threads on here


stc thread
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/45747-stc-1000-temp-controller/


or this build one
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/66428-stc-1000-in-pictures/

 

[earle]

Haha. Because as I said I bought the wrong one first. Might as well use it. it's handy for when I have a 3rd fv going that won't fit in the fridge. I only posted as 2 mates asked for the details so I thought it might help some other new Brewers.

Looks schmick but would probably be even handier in two separate jiffy boxes. I have a fridgemate that either heats or cools and 2 STC-1000's which of course do both. All in separate boxes means they're easy to shift around between fridges and freezers in separate places as needs be.

 

[Micko71]

Works for me I have everything very close and they have long sensor leads. It's too easy with one box re: mains wiring & cost of building another box.

And I Havnt seen any other threads qldkev. . Was just sharing.

I think everyone's missing the point here. I had 2 controllers. Instead of wasting one, or building another box, I just threw them in together.

I didn't expect to be hit with 'why didn't u' etc etc.

Crikey! Peace out.

 

[herman4x4]

G'day Micko71,
The wire that you cut so the fridge doesn't go into defrost mode, where is this wire? I have just set up a fridge with a kegking temp controller.
Thanks,
Andrew.

 

[Micko71]

Hey Herman

Usually the timer is at the back of the fridge , down low near the compressor. It will have a round dial with a screwdriver slot in it for turning it.

It has 5 or so wires going into it. There's usually one wire that is separated from the rest. On its own. Either unplug it if possible or just snip it n tape it up/ shrink wrap It. (What I did). Then make sure the fridge thermostat is tuned all the way to the right ( coldest) to avoid the thermostat taking over and turning the fridge off.

Running at 20deg or so u won't have to worry about defrosting it.

Cheers n good luck.

Also, make sure fridge is unplugged first and do these adjustments at own risk! Thought I'd better ad that in.

Micko.

 

[Micko71]

And make sure it's not already in defrost mode. Just make sure it's running before turning it of to do these adjustments.

Micko

 

[dicko]

In the days before STC 1000 were available, I made a similar controller.

I did the same as the OP, I fitted two Fridgemates into the one Jiffy Box and set one for heating and one for cooling.
It would be more than 10 years old now and it is still plugging away doing its job as it should.

I set the temperature setting on each one to be 1 degree difference so I dont get any overlap.
The STC 1000 and the other newer dual versions are able to be set in .1 increments which allows for a bit more accuracy but my old "clunker" does the job just fine.

 

[herman4x4]

Thanks Micko. I have a brew on so will have a look when it's done.
Cheers,
Andrew

 

[QldKev]

In the days before STC 1000 were available, I made a similar controller.

I did the same as the OP, I fitted two Fridgemates into the one Jiffy Box and set one for heating and one for cooling.
It would be more than 10 years old now and it is still plugging away doing its job as it should.

I set the temperature setting on each one to be 1 degree difference so I dont get any overlap.
The STC 1000 and the other newer dual versions are able to be set in .1 increments which allows for a bit more accuracy but my old "clunker" does the job just fine.

Are they the old Dixell xr10c. I've still got mine running from that bulk buy many years back.

 

[TSMill]

I think you should simplify it further and put a third controller in there. This controller would be wired to nothing, and would be the primary source of control for when the ambient temperature perfectly matches your fermentation temperature.

You could get the first type again and not heat.....or an stc so you can not heat and not cool.

 

[QldKev]

G'day Micko71,
The wire that you cut so the fridge doesn't go into defrost mode, where is this wire? I have just set up a fridge with a kegking temp controller.
Thanks,
Andrew.

Although this does mean the fridge can work as a fridge all the time without going into defrost mode, don't be overly concerned if you don't feel comfortable to do the bypass. When the fridge goes into defrost mode the defrost heater is after a defrost thermostat. If the evaporator isn't iced up (cold enough) the heating element will not come on. By leaving the timer hooked up the defrost system can still work when you are cold crashing / using the fridge as a fridge again. I keep mine hooked up for the cold crashing.

 

[dicko]

Are they the old Dixell xr10c. I've still got mine running from that bulk buy many years back.

Hi Kev,

My very first temp controller was theDixell 10c.
I bought mine before the bulk buy from a refrigeration company in Adelaide. It cost me $105.00
I dont have that controller any more as I sold it with a 3 door drink fridge that I had built up, to the local pub.

The two I used in the dual controller were the Fridgemates that Craftbrewer started selling. From memory they were about $44.00 at the time which was a lot cheaper than the Dixell.

Enough nostalgia

 

[Micko71]

I think you should simplify it further and put a third controller in there. This controller would be wired to nothing, and would be the primary source of control for when the ambient temperature perfectly matches your fermentation temperature.

You could get the first type again and not heat.....or an stc so you can not heat and not cool.

Well I could. Lol. But that would be rather stupid. I only have 3 fv. That's all the controllers I need. 2 in the fridge one on the bench. Oh and the imaginary ones. Gotcha !

 

[Micko71]

Although this does mean the fridge can work as a fridge all the time without going into defrost mode, don't be overly concerned if you don't feel comfortable to do the bypass. When the fridge goes into defrost mode the defrost heater is after a defrost thermostat. If the evaporator isn't iced up (cold enough) the heating element will not come on. By leaving the timer hooked up the defrost system can still work when you are cold crashing / using the fridge as a fridge again. I keep mine hooked up for the cold crashing.

Good call ! I thought the cold crashing needs to be controlled like fermenting ? I'm guessing fluctuations don't matter when cold crashing ? I've cold crashed 3 brews so far for around 3 days each. . They don't seem much clearer. Is that not long enough ? I'm very new to brewing btw.

 

[Kingy]

In the days before STC 1000 were available, I made a similar controller.

I did the same as the OP, I fitted two Fridgemates into the one Jiffy Box and set one for heating and one for cooling.
It would be more than 10 years old now and it is still plugging away doing its job as it should.

I set the temperature setting on each one to be 1 degree difference so I dont get any overlap.
The STC 1000 and the other newer dual versions are able to be set in .1 increments which allows for a bit more accuracy but my old "clunker" does the job just fine.

Thatd the best idea ever ive had my mashmates for nearly 10 years and want them to die so i can get more stcs but they just keep keepin on. Im gunna do exactly as you do to make use of em, cheers. Oh and i wouldn't have seen this post if thid thread was started so cheers to the OP to.

 

[Kingy]

Still got a dei 105a going strong in a pickwicks port box. Took some worrying up that bugger.