Setting Up New Pot

[BoilerBoy]

Ok...

I have got myself a 70L SS pot (thanks G&G) I have been searching past threads on installing fittings but want to clarify a few things.

As far as I can tell some guys weld a fitting to take a ball valve others use a lock nut system.

Can anyone advise me on the lock nut system ie what fittings they used? and do you need special high temp washers? etc

Also what is a good height off the base of the pot for the hole?

cheers

 

[warrenlw63]

Boiler Boy.

Should set you off in the right direction.

Here

Enjoy the pot.

Warren -

 

[BoilerBoy]

Thanks for the link Warren, excellent info, any idea on how high to drill the hole ?

cheers

 

[warrenlw63]

Boiler Boy.

Easiest way is with a 21mm bi-metal holesaw and arbour. You'd be looking at about $30-40 for the holesaw and arbour.

Start with a pilot hole with a 2-3mm bit. Keep the drill on low RPM and put lots of pressure on it. Use some form of oil like WD40 or sewing machine oil to cool the drill bit. Then do the same with the holesaw. It's not too difficult. Try search the site for drilling stainless too. You may unearth a few things. :beerbang:

Another way is to draw your 21mm diameter hole and drill a series of small holes around the diameter. Knock the middle out and file it smooth. Keep checking the hole by inserting the pipe thread at regular intervals.

Warren -

 

[warrenlw63]

Boiler Boy.

There may even be some of your fellow friendly-neighbourhood Sth Australian brewers that are willing to do it for you for a beer or two? :unsure:

It's not difficult to do. It depends if you're willing to invest the $40 odd dollars for the holesaw. Always easy to use and then maybe sell it at a reduced rate to a fellow brewers.

Lots of ways to skin the cat.

Warren -

 

[BoilerBoy]

Thankyou

 

[warrenlw63]

Also a couple of pics.

May give you a better idea. These are in a 50 Lt S/S keg. Methods for a pot are the same though. :beerbang:

Warren -

 

[Justin]

For the washers, I have used silicone sheet and cut my own washers with a pair of scissors. It's more flexible and seals better than those fibre washers (not saying they don't work).

I got my silicone sheet from buying one of those silicone bakeware cake tins (well not tin-all silicone but you know what I mean). Cost about $4 from one of those cheapo $2 stores (called Chickenfeed in Tassie).

Kind of wish I'd just gone weldless for all my 3 vessels taps-it would be a bit neater and easier to do than my dodgey welded couplings (took me a while to source a welder for SS). Of course I wont change back but my mash tun is a weldless and it seals beautifully. So simple.

I did the drill a hole and file to the right size method and I had great success with it. It's very easy, you just need a round file.

 

[Aaron]

For my kettle I had a hole drilled in it by a friend with one of those graduated drill bits. Didn't have the required tools myself. I then fitted it out with a piece of half inch plumbers thread through the hole. That has been secured with a combination of fibre and rubber washes. This is all held in place with some regular metal washers and nuts. On the outside I have fitted a standard ball valve and have a piece of copper pipe held with a kinko fitting inside as the pickup.

This setup has handled the liquid and the heat perfectly well. Also very simple to put together. You may have to look around a little to find stainless fittings as I don't think all plumbing outlets carry them. Mine are brass fittings.

 

[DonMac]

I have the fittings. Don.

 

[Andyd]

I used a cobalt drill to cut 4 holes around the inner perimeter of the hole I wanted, then filed the rest out with a ******* file (don't bother using a second cut file).

Took a little elbow grease, but that just makes the result all the more satisfying.

Andy

 

[Jazman]

the drill bit i got does cost around 60 bucks but makes it very easy

 

[BoilerBoy]

Ok....

I picked up some stainless fittings on friday and had the hole drilled yesterday.

A big thankyou to DonMac who helped me drill the hole and bend up a pick up tube
for the inside of the pot...a really nice guy who is very helpful and patient saving me alot of work and makes fine beer as well! :beer:

The only problem as we found out was that the stainless threads dont bite in as hard as did the brass and the locknuts were fairly loose on the thread.

Subsequently it leaks along the thread both around the lock nuts and the tap despite how hard you tighten it!

So I will now have to find a more suitable washer material that can take the heat and seal along the threads.

 

[DonMac]

Always happy to help the homebrewer, good luck with your a/g brewing boiler boy. If any Adelaide brewers are about to enter a/g field and require information on the basice equipment set up I will help out as I am able to work stainless, plasma cutting ,drilling ,welding brew stands, and have a good stock of copper braid for manafold.I am only interested in covering costs .You may contact me via this site. Don.

 

[sosman]

Here is a closeup from inside my HLT. Its the same deal in my kettle. I have used fibre washers and they have never been a problem. I don't normally recommend bunnings but they have that flanged brass nut you see there.

More pics at http://brewiki.org/BrewPot

BTW I have a 21mm drill bit I bought at FJ's in Bayswater for $15. The chinese drill bit has done a few kegs now and is fine.

 

[BoilerBoy]

Thanks for the link sosman some good pics and info,

We tried the fibre washers, but while the seal against the pot wall itself was fine the leak was occuring through the thread on the pipe.

The locknuts are not a great fit on the pipe, there's alot of movement when they are on loose. I will need to find washers that will flex more than fibre when done up tight.

cheers

 

[sosman]

Thanks for the link sosman some good pics and info,

We tried the fibre washers, but while the seal against the pot wall itself was fine the leak was occuring through the thread on the pipe.

The locknuts are not a great fit on the pipe, there's alot of movement when they are on loose. I will need to find washers that will flex more than fibre when done up tight.

[post="95375"][/post]​

I have teflon tape sealing the thread.

 

[warrenlw63]

Boiler Boy.

As Sosman says, make sure you've got a fair amount of Plumber's tape on the thread where the nuts and washers will be located.

Also bear in mind. You may get slight leaking along the thread (I do on my HLT). However when you heat up the pot, the metal will expand somewhat and the leak stops. So if the leak's only minor I wouldn't sweat too much on it.

Also make sure you're doing everything up tightly. Spanner on each side of the bulkhead and make sure everything's firm. :beerbang:

Warren -

 

[jgriffin]

I'd stay away from rubber washers, although i know some brewers use them. I used one once, and the burner melted the bloody thing. Created a mess of my nice stainless fittings and the keg, and also caused a rather major leak.