Rehydrating Yeast

[SunDrifter]

Hey Guys,

Another newbie brewer here, with another newbie question/problem.

I put down my 5th batch on the weekend, (i'm just starting to get into using hops atm). The kit and bits i used are:

1x Morgans Queenslander Lager
1x Thomas Cooper Light LME
50gm Tettnanger Hops (20gm @ 20mins, 20gm at flame out) 10gm to dry hop.
S04 Yeast

Anyway, I ran a bit short on time after putting all the gear into my fermenter and getting the temprature down, so i just sprinkled the yeast on top of the wort. It took a day and a half to see any bubbling coming out of the airlock, and 2 days later it's stopped. Should I just leave it until the end of the week and check the hydrometer? Or should I be thinking about rehydrating more yeast and pitching it in? OG for batch was 1055, i'm not entirely sure what FG to expect.

Cheers for the help.

 

[Supra-Jim]

Never rely on the bubbles!!!!! Always trust your hydrometer, as long as the gravity reading is falling, then you have fermentation.

Take a measurement, see where the brew is at. Give it a day or two, take another measurement. Then relax and have a beer!

Cheers SJ

 

[hazard]

Hey Guys,

Another newbie brewer here, with another newbie question/problem.

I put down my 5th batch on the weekend, (i'm just starting to get into using hops atm). The kit and bits i used are:

1x Morgans Queenslander Lager
1x Thomas Cooper Light LME
50gm Tettnanger Hops (20gm @ 20mins, 20gm at flame out) 10gm to dry hop.
S04 Yeast

Anyway, I ran a bit short on time after putting all the gear into my fermenter and getting the temprature down, so i just sprinkled the yeast on top of the wort. It took a day and a half to see any bubbling coming out of the airlock, and 2 days later it's stopped. Should I just leave it until the end of the week and check the hydrometer? Or should I be thinking about rehydrating more yeast and pitching it in? OG for batch was 1055, i'm not entirely sure what FG to expect.

Cheers for the help.

If you're worried that its stopped, take a reading each day to see if its moving. I would expect FG of around 1014, as this is all malt, no sugar.

 

[SunDrifter]

Thanks for the quick and helpful replys guys, i'll whip out the hydrometer this afternoon after work.

 

[.DJ.]

i have re-hyrated and no re-hydrated.. Personally, I dont think it matter too much.

Pitching rates and temp control have a much larger effect on flavours...

 

[Yeldarb]

I have tried re-hydrating...and personally can't find any advantage. I am using a temp controlled fridge...and mostly doing ales...so aim to get my wort to about 24 or 25 degrees...dry pitch...the fridge gets the temp down to 17/18 in a couple of hours while the yeast is getting going.

As stated...bubbles in the airlock are a good indication but never rely on them. I have a fermenter...seals seem fine...will not bubble at all.

A temp controlled fridge is the major step toward good beer.

Not sure if you care...but my fermenting regime is start with good yeast, then pretty much 3 weeks in the fermenter (I used to "rack" to a secondary...personally have found absolutely no difference to leaving in the primary for an extended time) in a temp controlled fridge, bulk prime (I use somewhere between 7 and 8 grams of dextrose per litre of wort...simply add some water and bring to boil...add to secondary fermenter then transfer the fermented wort (hose from primary tap into top of secondary) then straight into bottles. I have also found that 2 months in the bottle is some kind of magical amount of time.

 

[hazard]

.
Not sure if you care...but my fermenting regime is start with good yeast, then pretty much 3 weeks in the fermenter (I used to "rack" to a secondary...personally have found absolutely no difference to leaving in the primary for an extended time) in a temp controlled fridge, bulk prime (I use somewhere between 7 and 8 grams of dextrose per litre of wort...simply add some water and bring to boil...add to secondary fermenter then transfer the fermented wort (hose from primary tap into top of secondary) then straight into bottles. I have also found that 2 months in the bottle is some kind of magical amount of time.

Hi, if its fridge for 3 weeks, do you leave at fermentation temp for whole time, or do you cold condition at the end?
I currently rack to secondary after 2 weeks, then put in fridge to clarify beer before bottling, but happy to get rid of racking stage if it doesn't help! However, I will continue to rack for bulk priming. First time I did it, used a hose from primary tap like you describe, but that left about 2 litre of beer in the fermenter, not happy about that so i bought a racking cane. Racking takes same time as running through tap, and I get less than half a stubby left in ferementer. I hate to see wasted beer!

 

[Screwtop]

i have re-hyrated and no re-hydrated.. Personally, I dont think it matter too much.

I have tried re-hydrating...and personally can't find any advantage.

Re-hydrating does matter, that is why manufacturers recommend it. Plenty of good info re this here on the site that a search should turn up. The reason for re-hydrating is to ensure that the yeast is in suitable condition for use. Dried yeast can be adversely effected by unsuitable storage conditions, so a pack of dried yeast within use by date still may not be in good condition. You can be lucky and get away with not rehydrating. For a newb who may not know that dried yeast sometimes doesn't fire it can be offputting to experience having to throw out a batch due to fermentation not starting and his brew ending up infected.

Screwy

 

[Yeldarb]

Hi, if its fridge for 3 weeks, do you leave at fermentation temp for whole time, or do you cold condition at the end?
I currently rack to secondary after 2 weeks, then put in fridge to clarify beer before bottling, but happy to get rid of racking stage if it doesn't help! However, I will continue to rack for bulk priming. First time I did it, used a hose from primary tap like you describe, but that left about 2 litre of beer in the fermenter, not happy about that so i bought a racking cane. Racking takes same time as running through tap, and I get less than half a stubby left in ferementer. I hate to see wasted beer!

Yep I leave in the fridge and fermentation temp for 3 weeks. I had one or two goes at cold conditioning but found no significant difference...I might have another go one day. Perhaps if you want to hurry the process along cold conditioning is the way to go...not sure. What I forgot to mention is that I also usually add gelatine (plenty info on here) about 48 hours before bottling...very easy way to get a clearer beer...not that I really care about clarity...all I want is good tasting beer (my process does end in a very clear beer). I am thinking of getting a racking cain...but I currently get every last drop out of the fermenter doing what I do.

 

[hazard]

Yep I leave in the fridge and fermentation temp for 3 weeks. I had one or two goes at cold conditioning but found no significant difference...I might have another go one day. Perhaps if you want to hurry the process along cold conditioning is the way to go...not sure. What I forgot to mention is that I also usually add gelatine (plenty info on here) about 48 hours before bottling...very easy way to get a clearer beer...not that I really care about clarity...all I want is good tasting beer (my process does end in a very clear beer). I am thinking of getting a racking cain...but I currently get every last drop out of the fermenter doing what I do.

Thanks Yeldarb, my view is, if its already in the fridge than cold conditioning is pretty easy - just disconnect the temp control. I have added gelatine on some brews, but find that cold colditioning alone gives very clear beer, and gelatine doesn't add a whole lot more improvement. Maybe one or the other is effective by itself, and using both techniques doesn't add much more.

 

[Yeldarb]

Thanks Yeldarb, my view is, if its already in the fridge than cold conditioning is pretty easy - just disconnect the temp control. I have added gelatine on some brews, but find that cold colditioning alone gives very clear beer, and gelatine doesn't add a whole lot more improvement. Maybe one or the other is effective by itself, and using both techniques doesn't add much more.

You're probably right...I think I'll stick with gelatine at the mo...I like the idea of keeping the yeast active...and pretty happy with my beer at the moment.

 

[big78sam]

There's also some good advice in the articles section

Help my airlock's not bubbling

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...;showarticle=76

Fermentation has stopped. Why?

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...;showarticle=42

Yeast, including a section on rehydration


http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...;showarticle=20

I have never rehydrated and never had a problem but I don't claim to be an expert in any way. Maybe rehydration would have improved my beers but I've never done a side by side test. Has anyone ever done this, split the same brew into 2 and used dried yeast for one batch and rehydrated the yeast for the other?

 

[SunDrifter]

Cheers big78sam, I found those articles not long after I posted this morning (serves me right for not checking out the site better!).

My beers current gravity is 1019, so not long to go now. I'm going to rack this into my 2nd fermenter and bulk prime. Would that be a good time to dry hop? Once racked into the 2nd fermenter I try and get my wort as cold as possible (In North QLD!) before bottling.

 

[mwd]

Cheers big78sam, I found those articles not long after I posted this morning (serves me right for not checking out the site better!).

My beers current gravity is 1019, so not long to go now. I'm going to rack this into my 2nd fermenter and bulk prime. Would that be a good time to dry hop? Once racked into the 2nd fermenter I try and get my wort as cold as possible (In North QLD!) before bottling.

I dry hop after about 4 or 5 days in the primary when the fermentation slows down to a steady rhythm. Dry hopping into the secondary if you leave for about a week is good too except you just added a new load of gunk if you are bottling direct afterwards.

 

[SunDrifter]

Yeah, I was planning to leave the wort in the 2nd fermenter after priming/racking/dry hopping for a couple of days at least.

Tropical_Brews, I'm a Cairns local as well, any recommendations for LHBS supplies? Or do you get your kit online?

 

[Yeldarb]

Yeah, I was planning to leave the wort in the 2nd fermenter after priming/racking/dry hopping for a couple of days at least.

Shouldn't you only prime directly directly before bottling/kegging?

 

[Steve]

Shouldn't you only prime directly directly before bottling/kegging?

Yes you need to bottle straight away after bulk priming or else the sugars get eaten up.
Cheers
Steve

 

[Bribie G]

I've been a sprinkler for years but after a dud packet of US-05 a week or so ago, I'm now a dedicated rehydrater. I'm on a brew binge now for Xmas and a family get together and have pitched 3 brews in the last few days, all rehydrated and all hammering away nicely at the moment.
I'd recommend it, for the peace of mind.

 

[SunDrifter]

Yes you need to bottle straight away after bulk priming or else the sugars get eaten up.
Cheers
Steve

Ah, I didn't know that. Thanks for the Info.

 

[mwd]

Yeah, I was planning to leave the wort in the 2nd fermenter after priming/racking/dry hopping for a couple of days at least.

Tropical_Brews, I'm a Cairns local as well, any recommendations for LHBS supplies? Or do you get your kit online?

Marlin Coast Homebrew in Showground shopping area for Fresh Wort kits and Thomas Coopers Morgans etc. Most of hops and grains from Ross at CB top of page.