Pleas help the dumb arse who doesn't have a clue

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New_guy

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2nd BIAB AG

I need a full proof idiots guide to BIAB AG - the first brew went mouldy in the fermenter (green lumps)
I used the coopers pale ale clone recipie from here.

I have converted a 50lt keg with full stainless tap and thermowell and digital thermometer
I have a big gas burner that this sits on

I really need a muppets recipie that steps out every process

I am concerned with initial boil volume - I want a no sparse no chill recipie

Not really stressed about type of recipie - really just want to improve technique

Any suggestions would be great

I have beer smith 2 and ibrewmaster and have looked at the spreadsheet on here by Ian

I don't appear to be able to find a
A) add grain to mash tun
b) add X liters to mash tun
C) bring up to temp x
Etc
 
Nick's guide is foolproof. Bribie wrote one on biab in an urn and biabrewer.info has a beginner's guide
 
It's a fairly straight forward process. I used BribieG's guide and it was great. Most of the content would be similar no matter what you are using to biab in.

What yeast did you use? If you haven't watched a lot of yeast work before, it really does a lot of funky stuff. Lots of things that look like infections turn out to be perfectly normal yeast behaviour.
 
I did my first just a few weeks ago... all went well. I read, read, read, all that I could here, then youtubed allgrain and BIAB. Videos were very amature, however it was great to 'see' it instead of just reading - helped me heaps.
 
Cheers lads
Embarrassed to say - yes attended G&G BIAB demo
Yes def mould - clumps size of finger nail very green in color
I think first big mistake was presuming boil meant achieve 100 deg c - the burner was going off its chops!
When I tasted unfermented wort - extremely sweet (made half a doz fresh wort kits that were never this sweet)
I was really particular about sanitation (nurse by trade )
 
New_guy said:
2nd BIAB AG

I need a full proof idiots guide to BIAB AG - the first brew went mouldy in the fermenter (green lumps)
I used the coopers pale ale clone recipie from here.

I have converted a 50lt keg with full stainless tap and thermowell and digital thermometer
I have a big gas burner that this sits on

I really need a muppets recipie that steps out every process

I am concerned with initial boil volume - I want a no sparse no chill recipie

Not really stressed about type of recipie - really just want to improve technique

Any suggestions would be great

I have beer smith 2 and ibrewmaster and have looked at the spreadsheet on here by Ian

I don't appear to be able to find a
A) add grain to mash tun
B) add X liters to mash tun
C) bring up to temp x
Etc
This is a simple one & tastes really good. 20lt into the no chill cube @70% eff.
Download BrewMate & input these values & adjust for your boil off rate which may be as high as 8 or 9lt depending on how hard you boil.
On brew day, measure the actual temp of your crushed grain & put that into your grain temp column & it will adjust your strike temp.

DSGA Copy.png DSGA 2.png
 
I also got a bit of help from Crusty (cheers mate) for my first brew. Pretty much brewed the recipe above. Was really good but prefer a few different hop combos these days.
 
Cheers Crusty
Will that give me a step by step process when I input the values?
 
New_guy said:
A) add grain to mash tun
B) add X liters to mash tun
C) bring up to temp x
Etc
A needs to go after B and C. If you added the grain, then cold water, then applied heat, who knows what would happen. You add water, get it to "strike" temp (based on temperature of the grain, which when added to the water will drop the temp - beersmith will do this calc for you), then add grain - and you're mashing.

Beersmith2 definitely has some BIAB equipment profiles that seem to mostly work (though the thing about trub losses affecting OG still baffles me completely)
 
Wort is supposed to taste sweet. How sweet? Volume vs gravity. If you use enough water to dough in and keep it constant/ good temps and stir etc, no reason why you shouldn't get super sweet wort. Working out the grain absorption is probably the key for biab, how much water will be trapped by how many kilos of grain. So, take recipe, lets say 20l of final product, lose 1l to trub in fermenter, lose 1l to trub in kettle, that means you need 22l post boil.

So, if your recipe calls for 4kg grain for a single batch, you will boil off lets say 3l in the 1 hour boil, so you need 22+3 = 25l pre boil.

Now work back to pre-mash, if the grain will end up absorbing 1.5l per kilo, you are going to lose 6l of water. So, starting dough in should be 31l.

Obviously, sub your actual numbers in. I hope that is straightforward enough, you don't quite need fancy software for this stuff.

Work out temperatures using:

Grain vol x room temp + boiling water required vol x 100 C = (31l + grain vol) x mash temp required.

^ that's just rough, maybe someone knows actual formula. I kinda play it by the ear.
 
Your in Pascoevale. Why dont you put your hand up to come around to watch someone close by brewing. Bring your gear and do a brew at the same time. More than welcome to come to my place. But be warned. I am preparing for the mash paddle shoot so I am brewing naked atm.
 
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