Pitching a second packet of yeast

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Bald Head Brewery

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Afternoon all,

Just a question, I've heard yeast can 'die' if you pitch it too hot. With both my brews I've pitched at 18 and had no issues but I'm wondering if this were to occur and the yeast didn't ferment can you save it by adding a second lot of yeast?

Regards

BHB
 
Yep, but you want to be quick... and it may that be that the yeast survives, but throws a heap of esters and some nastier flavours like acetaldehyde or fusel alcohols.

Basically you should be aiming for signs of fermentation within 4-12hrs of pitching. Longer than 24-36hrs and something else is likely to come into the mix and spoil your beer. So you should make sure that you have enough yeast (generally two packets of most strains, despite what the instructions say) and have it at the right temperature to start with.
 
Basically you should be aiming for signs of fermentation within 4-12hrs of pitching. Longer than 24-36hrs and something else is likely to come into the mix and spoil your beer. So you should make sure that you have enough yeast (generally two packets of most strains, despite what the instructions say) and have it at the right temperature to start with.
I've gotta disagree with you on that. All these factors depend on the particular strain in use. A single pack of dry US05, for example, often will take 24hrs to form krausen but hits FG within 5 days.
 
I've gotta disagree with you on that. All these factors depend on the particular strain in use. A single pack of dry US05, for example, often will take 24hrs to form krausen but hits FG within 5 days.
Pfft, what would you know? Not like you can brew a comp-winning IPA...

You know, I was going to say "except for US-05" but then even that benefits from more cells, having a faster take-off and hitting FG in 3 days... but of all the strains it definitely seems to be one of a handful that can get away with one pack. M44 and S-04 don't fall into that category, with many many others.
 
Pfft, what would you know? Not like you can brew a comp-winning IPA...

You know, I was going to say "except for US-05" but then even that benefits from more cells, having a faster take-off and hitting FG in 3 days... but of all the strains it definitely seems to be one of a handful that can get away with one pack. M44 and S-04 don't fall into that category, with many many others.
:D said IPA was actually fermented with US05.
I guess the basis of my point is, if your ferment doesn't kick off at all, it's just as likely to be yeast quality as it is pitch rate. There are plenty of factors to consider. You're right though - there are many strains which need a couple packs.
@Bald Head Brewery which yeast did you use, and where did you get it? If the shop doesn't refrigerate it, stop going there.
 
I've been using starters lately and you do get a better idea of viability that way.
You can taste the beer off the starter to see if its okay.
They also take off a bit quicker.
I usually pitch around 20-22 and drop it down to 18 straight after pitching.
Used a White Labs California Ale Yeast (WLP001) and made enough for a 23L double IPA and a 23L regular IPA and both were bubbling away at 16 hours after pitching. The double got a bit too excited and made a bit of a mess! :D
 
Krausen, just had to google that. I never knew the froth on top had a name. Do some yeasts give a bigger krausen then others? Love this education stuff.
 
Everything about beer has a name. Many German. And yes every yeast has different characters and behaviours.
All part of the fascination.
 
Join the club haha. Anything I haven't tried is something I want to try.
I wish I could get that through to megaswill drinkers. "Oh I can only drink Melbourne" "Oh I can only drink Vic Bitter" "Nah I can only drink Carlton Draught" oh well, they just don't get it...
 
Join the club haha. Anything I haven't tried is something I want to try.
I wish I could get that through to megaswill drinkers. "Oh I can only drink Melbourne" "Oh I can only drink Vic Bitter" "Nah I can only drink Carlton Draught" oh well, they just don't get it...
Furphys at least appears to be a good start.
 
I love the differences in beer making. Actually I just love beer

Mate, I can assure you that you are in the right pace if you love beer.
:cheers:

Wort aeration can also impact lag time of yeast. You want as much oxygen in your wort as possible at the moment you pitch the yeast, This will allow the yeast to multiply to a larger number of cells in a shorter amount of time and result in faster and cleaner fermentation.

The biggest improvement in my beer after temp controlling fermentation came from oxygenating my wort.

Edit- Your wort will have to be pretty warm to actually kill the yeast. close to 50c. If the temperature difference between the yeast in the packet and the wort your adding it to is to great it can stress the yeast though which could potentially cause it to lag, but also make you beer taste not as good. Best practice is to let the yeast warm up to the temp of the wort (or starter/ or water if rehydrating). You want the wort to be at optimal temp within the first few hours, before active fermentation starts.
 
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A bit off topic but will running a gas line split for my 2 kegs work alright, both beers are ales.
 
A bit off topic but will running a gas line split for my 2 kegs work alright, both beers are ales.
I split my line across six. It's fine. What you have to be mindful of is leakage though, make sure to use some hose clamps and test for gas leakage. Easiest way I've found to do that is set your reg to a nominal pressure, then close off the bottle. If there is no leak, the nominal pressure shouldn't change over a few hours afterward (or at all, but watch it for a few hours minimum). Do this without a keg connected since beer in a keg could absorb the Co2 and mess with your testing.
 
Depends how confident you are in your line clamps. If you're sure there are no leaks, by all means, leave it on. It'll carb your kegs faster assuming you carb at dispensing pressure like I do
 
i leave my gas on to my kegs..
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