No Chill Filter From Pot To Cube?

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Hoser

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So the last couple batches I've tried applying a mash bag to the valve at the bottom of my pot in order to minimise the large proteins / hot break that gets through to the cube. See pics below. I whirlpool immediately after flameout (plus a few mins to allow convection to stop) as well.

The only issue I'm finding is if any hops or larger sediment get into the valve the flow is EXTREMELY slow. Tonight it took over an hour to run from the pot to the cube. I keep the cube quite sealed with star san soaked paper towel around the cube opening. That said I'm thinking the benefit of keeping the extra larger proteins out is outweighed by risk of contamination by taking so long to fill the cube. Thoughts?

IMG_0261.JPG
 
Do those proteins from the break/trub actually have a negative effect in the cube? I just try and keep as much out as possible when transferring from cube to fermenter. That said, I am having trouble lately getting a nice compact trub cone in the kettle and I am not sure why, so I am getting more break/trub into the cube than wanted.
 
Well I have to say I'm very happy with essentially no trub in the cube using this method. Forgot to mention that I also sanitise the hell out of the mash bag before I use it as a filter.

If you don't think it's significant risk of contamination by ensuring the cube is covered well, I recommend this method to reduce the trub that passes from the boil...
 
So the last couple batches I've tried applying a mash bag to the valve at the bottom of my pot in order to minimise the large proteins / hot break that gets through to the cube. See pics below. I whirlpool immediately after flameout (plus a few mins to allow convection to stop) as well.

The only issue I'm finding is if any hops or larger sediment get into the valve the flow is EXTREMELY slow. Tonight it took over an hour to run from the pot to the cube. I keep the cube quite sealed with star san soaked paper towel around the cube opening. That said I'm thinking the benefit of keeping the extra larger proteins out is outweighed by risk of contamination by taking so long to fill the cube. Thoughts?


Do you pitch your yeast directly into the cube or do you rack into a carboy once the wort has chilled.

I would suggest, transfering the whole wort including some of the hot break into the cube and then racking it off into a carboy/fermenter (once chilled), leaving all the sediment behind.

Cheers

James
 
Would it work better if you put the bag over the end of the tube that's in the cube, then just lift out the whole thing afterwards?
Having said that it seems like overkill to me. I've never had a problem with a little bit of break material getting in to primary - I have even read a few places that it can help the yeast.

*edit - found a link "excessively bright worts may be detrimental to yeast nutrition." http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/lauter-cla...-quality-60310/
 
Do you pitch your yeast directly into the cube or do you rack into a carboy once the wort has chilled.

I would suggest, transfering the whole wort including some of the hot break into the cube and then racking it off into a carboy/fermenter (once chilled), leaving all the sediment behind.

Cheers

James

No I rack to a carboy first and leave most but not all of the cold break behind. Utlimately everything I've learned is that you don't want hot break in your fermenter hence the whirlpool action - some cold break is ok but not hot break. Going from the Palmer/Zainesheff shows but jeez there's a world of opinion out there.
 
Would it work better if you put the bag over the end of the tube that's in the cube, then just lift out the whole thing afterwards?
Having said that it seems like overkill to me. I've never had a problem with a little bit of break material getting in to primary - I have even read a few places that it can help the yeast.

*edit - found a link "excessively bright worts may be detrimental to yeast nutrition." http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/lauter-cla...-quality-60310/

Interesting. Again this runs against what I've learned so far about leaving hot break out. Will have to go back and research why. I'm happy with the beers I'm getting so far though so I guess that's what matters! That said, a guy in the link you posted referred to using a hop bag to transfer from his boil pot through a chill plate. I'm using a tighter weave mash bag so maybe a hop bag will allow more of the small sediment through.... Will change to that next time.
 
If it takes over an hour to drain, my concern would be the drop in the temperature of the wort and risk of your NC Cube becoming infected.

Personally I just dump the lot in after a whirlpool with no negative effects thus far.
 

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