New Pale Ale Recipe Needed!

[HomeBrewDan]

I have recently been having a lot of problems with my regular Pale Ale recipe (after years of successfully making it). I first thought it might be infection in my gear. But after replacing all my gear and successfully brewing other styles I have determined it must be due to inconsistencies with ingredients.

I'm after some suggestions for a new recipe because I don't want to use the following ingredients again.

Cascade Pale Ale Malt Extract
Brewcraft Kit converter #76 Pale ale
SAF ale yeast S-04 11g

Thanks for any comments and suggestions in advance!

Dan

 

[Pennywise]

Coopers Pale Ale
100g light'ish Crystal malt of choice
1kg be2
US-05
dry hop with 20g of Cascade half way through ferment

 

[warra48]

Here's a copy and paste of one of DrSmurto's posts from another forum. I've brewed this, and it's very good.

Just a reminder of what Boonie posted

1 tin Morgans Stockmans Draught
1.5 kg of Morgans Extra Pale Malt Extract (Liquid)
15g of Cascade pellets - 15min
10g Cluster pellets - 15 min
US56 Yeast.
12g of Chinook Pellets (dry hopped at rack).

I used the coopers liquid pale malt instead. 1 week primary, 1 week secondary, dry hopped with chinook. Bulk primed with dex on 3rd Feb.

So i couldnt wait the 2 weeks i normally allow for my first taste. Was worried it wouldnt be full carbed. Nothing to worry about. Good carb.

Taste - i think i can safely say this is the best beer i have made/tasted to date! Didnt do a side by side tasting with LCPA but i did have 6 of the real thing on Saturday night so memory is relatively good and i think this is very very close. Hops are sensational, good bitterness, flavour and a gorgeous aroma.

Boonie. Mate. I'm in love :mrgreen: Lucky ur not in Adelaide, cos i could kiss you right now!

Give it a go K&Kers cos its sensational. I got the chinook from Ross at craftbrewer if you cant find them. Got a few more bottles in the fridge ready for 2nite! Counting down the hours.....

Cheers
DrSmurto

Link here: Boonie's LCPA

 

[jyo]

Coopers Pale Ale
100g light'ish Crystal malt of choice
1kg be2
US-05
dry hop with 20g of Cascade half way through ferment

This is very similar to my go to pale ale when I was doing kits, except I used to use 200 gms crystal 120, boil 20 gms cascade with the wort for 10 minutes and dry hop with cascade. Great beer everytime!
Cheers, John.

 

[Camo1234]

This is very similar to my go to pale ale when I was doing kits, except I used to use 200 gms crystal 120, boil 20 gms cascade with the wort for 10 minutes and dry hop with cascade. Great beer everytime!
Cheers, John.

If you want to have a try at an extract recipe then have a go at this one... I brewed it on the weekend and it tasted and smelt great!

LCPA Topic

 

[Pennywise]

If the OP is after a full extract recipe, check out Neill's Centenarillo in the DB as well.

 

[HomeBrewDan]

With reviews like what Boonies beer has, I'd be crazy not to try that! I'll give it a go this week some time and report back.

Thanks again guys.

Dan

 

[warra48]

Just one thing:

US56 yeast is no longer sold under that name, it is now known as US05.
Liquid equivalents are WLP001 or WY1056.

 

[woodwormm]

Here's a copy and paste of one of DrSmurto's posts from another forum. I've brewed this, and it's very good.

Just a reminder of what Boonie posted

1 tin Morgans Stockmans Draught
1.5 kg of Morgans Extra Pale Malt Extract (Liquid)
15g of Cascade pellets - 15min
10g Cluster pellets - 15 min
US56 Yeast.
12g of Chinook Pellets (dry hopped at rack).

Cheers
DrSmurto

Link here: Boonie's LCPA

i'm new to the whole hopping/boiling process i usually just do can kit and kilo.... forgive me for stupid questions?

so i boil the beer goop tin and the malt tin up together with some water?

then add the hops at times suggested? how much longer do i boil for after last addition?

Dry hopped at rack - racking into keg? does this mean i hop into my keg?

sorry for the stupid questions.

 

[warra48]

i'm new to the whole hopping/boiling process i usually just do can kit and kilo.... forgive me for stupid questions?

so i boil the beer goop tin and the malt tin up together with some water?

then add the hops at times suggested? how much longer do i boil for after last addition?

Dry hopped at rack - racking into keg? does this mean i hop into my keg?

sorry for the stupid questions.

No question is stupid. If you have a question, you obviously need an answer, so that's what this forum is all about.

I wouldn't boil the goop and malt tins all in one go. I don't know what size pot you have to do a boil, but the ingredients of this recipe are designed to produce about 23 litres at about 1.045 OG. You need to keep your SG consistent with this to ensure you obtain maximum utilisation from your hops. If you have too high a SG boil, you will reduce that and not make the most of your hops.

So, if you have, say a 10 litre pot, I would simply add the malt tin to that with water, bring it to the boil, add the hops, and boil it for 15 minutes. When you turn off the heat, you can add the goop tin, cool your pot, and add it all to the fermenter. No need to strain anything out. Then top it up to 23 litres.

The dry hop at rack is only if you are racking your brew to another container. I personally wouldn't bother with that, and I never do it for any of my brews (except lagers for lagering). Let it ferment for, say, one week. Then add the Chinook pellets to your fermenter, just chuck them straight in, they'll settle to the bottom in time. Leave another week, then bottle (with the usual caveats about bottling and ensuring it's fully fermented).

 

[jimmythehuman]

I am half keen to follow Warra48 advice here. Has anyone actually tried it, did it produce a killer pale ale?

I have just dont the recipe from the first post (3 days in the fermenter). Only difference is i used some 14g og hops (i steeped and added to the wort just after it had boiled and i had turned the gs off).

Is it going to be ordinary, should i do something to repair it while its fermenting or just after it stops? I thought it was going to be ok until i saw this post, making me nervous now

 

[iankaplan]

I made this one last year:


- Thomas Coopers Collection IPA
- 25g Citra hops
- 25g Cascade hops
- 500g Light Dry Malt
- 300g dextrose
- Safale US-05 yeast
- Finest Victorian tapwater

This is one of my most successful beers yet. I really enjoy a rich IPA, and this recipe does the trick. Early drinkings were almost too hoppy and "green", but after exercising some self control and leaving the stuff alone for 6 months, the flavours have matured well, giving a smooth and well rounded taste experience.

I didn't have time to bottle the brew, so it lived in the fermenter for an extra 2 weeks with absolutely no ill effects.

 

[warra48]

I am half keen to follow Warra48 advice here. Has anyone actually tried it, did it produce a killer pale ale?

I have just dont the recipe from the first post (3 days in the fermenter). Only difference is i used some 14g og hops (i steeped and added to the wort just after it had boiled and i had turned the gs off).

Is it going to be ordinary, should i do something to repair it while its fermenting or just after it stops? I thought it was going to be ok until i saw this post, making me nervous now

Never fear! You'll still make beer!

You'll be fine with the original recipe.
Which hops did you use in your recipe? I ask because S04 is a UK style yeast, whereas US05 is a USA style yeast.
I would wait until you are one week into fermentation, then dry hop your brew with the same or similar hop (UK or USA?). As I said earlier, just throw them into your fermenter, seal it up again, then do your final SG check a week later, and bottle or keg!

 

[iralosavic]

I did an extract APA that turned out alright, which was similar to the LCPA clone, but with cascade, chinook and amarillo. I felt it needed more dry hopping than suggested by Boonie. And yeah, don't boil your can of goo - I'm pretty sure it also extracts further bitterness from the existing hops too.

 

[jimmythehuman]

Ahhh i threw out the packaging already and i forgot to add the ingredients to my spreadsheet. The hops came with the brewcraft #76 kit converter (and the ingredients aren't listed anywhere). Noob mistake, i wont repeat this one

Could you suggest one i could dry hop with? To confirm, when dry hopping just toss it in the fermenter, no stirring then wait a week. Then dont use the tap to bottle, siphon into bottling bucket instead and bulk prime in there?

Am i better off using a muslin bag to avoid the bits in the beer? I was also going to make my next beer on top of this yeast cake...is this silly if i have dry hopped?

 

[warra48]

Ahhh i threw out the packaging already and i forgot to add the ingredients to my spreadsheet. The hops came with the brewcraft #76 kit converter (and the ingredients aren't listed anywhere). Noob mistake, i wont repeat this one

Could you suggest one i could dry hop with? To confirm, when dry hopping just toss it in the fermenter, no stirring then wait a week. Then dont use the tap to bottle, siphon into bottling bucket instead and bulk prime in there?

Am i better off using a muslin bag to avoid the bits in the beer? I was also going to make my next beer on top of this yeast cake...is this silly if i have dry hopped?

Well, for a UK style Pale Ale you could dry hop successfully with Goldings or Fuggles.
For a US style Pale Ale, dry hop with Cascade or Chinook.

Just toss them into the fermenter, don't stir, and walk away for a week.
I never bother transferring to another container, I bottle everything straight from primary, even Lagers and AIPAs. The hops will drop, and you won't have a problem with bottling direct from primary. You can use a bag if you wish, but it's not essential.