New Brewer - Coopers Draught Can

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Thanks for the link. This was interesting. I hadn't heard of this site before, so I really appreciate that you directed me there.

But as the chemical guy says in the interview bleach doesn't start killing until the solution reaches a ph of 8. (He says ph of 4 first and then corrects himself and says 8). Most tap water would be below this level anyway. My tap water here in the Perth hills is actually pretty soft; no kettle scale and soap lathers up very well. I don't know the exact ph but I'm sure it would be lower than 8. 8 is pretty alkaline. I had heard of adding vinegar to bleach solutions before as a way of increasing the bleach's effectiveness, but I'm not convinced it's really necassary. In my experience bleach is a very effective killer of germs, as well as an excellent remover of trace fats that stuff up your head retention. Like I said above I haven't had an infection since I've used it and the addition of vinegar is probably only appropriate in very hard water areas. Thanks for the info though.
hi...i use bleach and am now confused...so do i have to drop the pH to say 4 before the bleach takes effect?
link here for bleach pH... http://www.virtualsciencefair.org/2005/edg...tml/phscale.gif
link here for vinegar pH...http://www.apple-cider-vinegar-benefits.com/properties-of-vinegar.html
been a long time since i did chemistry...how'd they arrive at 30ml of vinegar...moles or is that mols ...
or something...
cheers simpletotoro
 
hi...i use bleach and am now confused...so do i have to drop the pH to say 4 before the bleach takes effect?
link here for bleach pH... http://www.virtualsciencefair.org/2005/edg...tml/phscale.gif
link here for vinegar pH...http://www.apple-cider-vinegar-benefits.com/properties-of-vinegar.html
been a long time since i did chemistry...how'd they arrive at 30ml of vinegar...moles or is that mols ...
or something...
cheers simpletotoro

Well the guy in this link I was given says bleach starts killing at a ph of 8. He says later that it works optimally at a ph of 5. I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you're sure you live in a very hard water area. If bleach works for you use it.
 
or you could just buy some normal, easy to use, no nasty smell sanitiser.
You could make an ale but you'll have to heat it.
 
hi ...i brewed this as an ale...but is a great draught recipe IMO..as others have already said...get the basic right....sanitation ...fermenting temp [ales 18-20/c:... lagers 10-12/c:...then the other stuff...like hop additions,malts,specialty grains etc...
try getting sanitation and fermenting temp right as quickly as possible...ok rant over
the recipe below is one i did a couple of months ago ...turned out a cracker...try what you want from it at your own pace...
recipe
1* tin of 1.7 kg draught (mine was xxxx draught but coopers will do ok i reackon maybe better)
750 g Light Dried Malt
250 g dextrose
200 g maltodextrin

specialty grains
200 g crystal malt (steeped 70-80/c 1/2 hour then boiled)
200 g carapils (steeped 70-80/c 1/2 hour then boiled)

hops
15 g cluster @ 15 mins
15 g cluster @ 01 min

yeast us-56 (or as it goes by now us-05)

toppped to 23 litres with cold (read chilled) water ...yeast pitched at 18/c ...bulk primed with 160 g white sugar...bottle conditioned for at least 6 weeks..

okay if you like use a good lager yeast to ferment it but try to do so at 10-12 /c

once again do things in small steps till you get a handle on it ...but this does taste bloody good...
might give it another burl using the lager yeast now i'm thinking about it

anything i've written that you don't understand give us a yell ok...
cheers simpletotoro

Thanks for the recipe. The extracts look good but for simplicity and wanting to get this down asap i think ill go with the BE2 addition.
I dont quiet understand the grain or hops part yet, but that will come with more reading of forums and the like.
Also probably with stick with the Ale yeast for the first one. I have an aquaimersion (sp) heater so temps shouldn't be a problem if im keeping it indoors. But im very keen on trying a lager maybe next time, as i just remembered my uncle next door has an outdoor refrigerator that could be used for conditioning.

Thanks all for your imput
 
hey simpletotoro, just to round off the topic, how about a simple explanation of the crystal malt and the carapils - what do they add to the brew. Taste, aroma, body ?? I've played with them a little but often forget they're there by the time I drink the. A simple xplanation might help me, and Twenty, and all other novices out !
 
I dont quiet understand the grain or hops part yet

twenty, a really, really simple improvement, which IMHO is more than worth the effort, is to grab yourself a couple of hops "teabags" from your local homebrew store. Just steep for 10 minutes and chuck 'em in to the fermenter, bag and all!

For a couple of bucks they really do improve the hops flavour of the beer and are a great way to learn about the flavour properties of different types of hops...
 
hey simpletotoro, just to round off the topic, how about a simple explanation of the crystal malt and the carapils - what do they add to the brew. Taste, aroma, body ?? I've played with them a little but often forget they're there by the time I drink the. A simple xplanation might help me, and Twenty, and all other novices out !
Fatgodzilla
okay...good question...firstly let me tell you i to am still a novice i only
started brewing in december and have only brewed 20 odd beers...first four you
could say were ok after that i learned about temp control and upon tasting the
result of a beer fermented at the correct temp hit the ground running...still most
of what i write is merely regurated info from brewers much more experienced then
me...but i'll have a burl at answering your question...(in a nut shell i'd say
adding specialty grains of any kind will do a combination of the following
things...)
[1] taste (different grains add different tastes to your beer...more later on
specifics)
[2] aroma (yeah my opinion is that there is a slight aroma quality to adding
grains...obiviously the more you add slightly more aromatic the final
product...bear in mind this may be the product of an overactive imagination )
[3] body (yep definitely ...once again i think its subtle but defintely an added
boast in my opinion)
[4] colour (from slight to dark depending on the grain added and the amout added)
okay now to answer your question a little more clearly
QUESTION:crystal malt and the carapils - what do they add to the brew.?
ANSWER:eek:kay carapils first ...the following i pinched from grumpys website so its
their words not mine okay but it says it much more simply and eloquently then i
ever could..."Weyermann CaraPils EBC = 3-5
Use 5% to 10% for improved body and head retention. Ideal for European
Pilsener styles or for adding body without adding colour. Also known as dextrin
malt or carapils. NO MASH REQUIRED " link below
link http://www.grumpys.com.au
also from another site this which says a little about what a dextrin is ...but not
much.... Carapils is a brand name and is ....is a very pale crystal malt. Other
maltsters make similar products and sometimes use names like dextrin or cara-pils
to describe their products.[the last bit i pinched to from link below..)
link http://byo.com/mrwizard/776.html

A dextrin is an unfermentable carbohydrate chain that is not large enough to be
considered starch.this i am led to believe it helps create mouthfeel and body in a
beer...which is basicly what my homebrew shop dude told it does...

now crystal malt... often called caramel malts...john palmer says it like this

(direct quote) "Caramel Malts (may be steeped or mashed)
Caramel Malts have undergone a special heat "stewing" process after the malting
which crystallizes the sugars. These sugars are caramelized into longer chains that
are not converted into simple sugars by the enzymes during the mash. This results
in a more malty, caramel sweet, fuller tasting beer. These malts are used for
almost all ale and higher gravity lager styles. Various crystal malts are often
added in half pound amounts to a total of 5-25% of the grain bill for a 5 gallon
batch.

Caramel 10 10 L This malt adds a light honey-like sweetness and some body to the
finished beer.
Caramel 40 40 L The additional color and light caramel sweetness of this malt is
perfect for pale ales and amber lagers.
Caramel 60 60 L This is the most commonly used caramel malt, also known as medium
crystal. It is well suited for pale ales, English style bitters, porters and
stouts. It adds a full caramel taste and body to the beer.
Caramel 80 80 L This malt is used for making reddish colored beers and gives a
lightly bittersweet caramel flavor.
Caramel 120 120 L This malt adds a lot of color and bittersweet caramel flavor.
Useful in small amounts to add complexity or in greater amounts for old ales,
barleywines and doppelbocks."

end quote
link to palmers how to brew below.
link http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-1.html

basicly to me crystal malt (i use the medium one mostly cause it whats available)
adds a nice sweetness to the beer ...read a nice sweetness if you use it in
appropiate quanties ...i tend to use about 200-250 grams when making an ale ... and
as i said above i believe it adds body,slight aroma and a richer colour to the
finished product...

NOTE : when i use specialty grains like carapils and crystal this is what i do
(others have different ways of doing it ...what follows is how i was taught and it
works for me...)
firstly i boil say 1 1/2 litres of water in the kettle add it to my smaller brew
pot ...check temp when it goes down to 80/c i add my grains ...their thermal mass
reduces this down to the mid to low 70's/c i bung on the lid and leave steeping for
1/2 hour ...i strain these grains (through a cheap fine guaze strainer from BIG W
..some people use a grain bag ) ...into my bigger brew pot and rinse with recently
boiled water say 1 litre or just a little less to extract a little more from the
grains ( again temp of this water i am told is now critical but mine is around
70-80/c )... don't squish the grains in the strainer as this i'm told will release
tannins which are astringent same i am told goes for stirring grains whilst their
steepeing...i chuck the spent grain in the garden or compost bin and boil the
resulting liquid for 20 - 30 mins ( to help kill any of the bugs that may be
present in the solution) before adding malt hops etc to make my extract...i'm told
i don't need to boil the resulting liquid so long but i do anyway...

check out this grain guide below for more info on this kind of stuff i think
bconnery made it...
grain guide
View attachment grainsguide1.xls
also i'll bung in bconnerys hops guide this is bloody brillant...
hops guide
View attachment hopsguide.xls

*** BIG BIG DISCLAIMER THIS IS WHAT I THINK ...I MAY BE WRONG IF I AM PLEASE LET ME
KNOW ...***
hope this helps
cheers simpletotoro
 
Thanks simpletotoro

whats the general consensus relating to making a starter or not?

twenty
 
For your first can just follow the kit instructions and see what you get. On your second can try switching from sugar to dry malt extract and dextrose. That way you have a basis for comparing how the elements work together. It's more important to learn the basic process when you are first starting out. Baby steps. Baby steps. I think there's a risk of biting of more than one can chew and then finding the hobby too much work for too little gain.

Keep records of all your brewing attempts in some sort of log book.

I have been brewing with the Coopers supplied yeast and have no problems with it. My only other advice is to get the Palmer book How to Brew. That is the single best reference book I have come across.

Good luck.
 
whats the general consensus relating to making a starter or not?

twenty
a yeast starter?....don't know anything first hand about them really...read and have heaps of info on them as well as culturing and farming yeast but have never had the goolies to give it a try...not cause it sounds hard but am right anal when it comes to infection...i should cause yeast costs run at roughly %15 of my overall brew cost per batch ...if you want the info i've gathered on it PM me and i'll send it to you ...
cheers simpletotoro
 
Thanks simpletotoro

whats the general consensus relating to making a starter or not?

twenty
that would probably depend on the type of brew your making. dry yeast (provided its ok) is generaly ok to pitch dry (ie not make a starter). The better the brew your making the more expensive yeast you'll use (most likely),. Given that liquid yeast 'smackpacks' are about $15 a pouch making a culture for later use then making a starter makes sense (ie it doesnt cost you $15 everytime you use liquid yeast).

Yes its more time consuming and you have to be a bit anal about sterilisation but its far cheaper.

If you talking specifically about making a starter to rehydrate dry yeast for a normal brew I wouldnt bother (unless its a specialty yeast that requires rehydrating). normal yeast (esp bought yeast rather than 'under the lid kit yeast' is vastly superior and shouldnt require a starter. as a general rule.
exception: muntons, brewcraft imported and other good quality brand kits. yeast supplied is good.
 

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