Is it possible to grab the yeast from coopers cans???

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kingdomplantae

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Hello as the title states, can I grab the coopers yeast from a can, or is it a different manufacturing process to bottles??
I generally don't drink cans, but I can't walk past those CPA 440ml cans with out grabbing a box...
However I now need to brew up some Coopers yeast and only have 1 tallie and a box of cans....
Will the cans have the sediment????
Thanks for any clarification!

Cheers
 

Half-baked

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From the website, looks like all the ales are naturally conditioned, so as long as not a lager you should be fine.

Having said that, you could just use the tallie and step up the starter (re-culturing from one beer is fine).

Worth noting, it's better to re-culture yeast from beers less than 6% ABV. So if you have a choice, don't use the extra stout...

HB
 

Vini2ton

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I have used the yeast sediment from sparkling ale stubbies many times with outstanding results. I get a six-pack, sanitise around the lid, open, pour the beer into a glass, recap and put in the fridge. When I've drunk all six, I start the step-up process. I've done this with the higher alcohol one (vintage?) with no problems. Easy peezy. The cans wouldn't work with this method. Sanitation is the key yet again.
 

kingdomplantae

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To be honest this has been almost my favourite part of the process @Vini2ton , propagating the coopers yest!
I wonder after your aBove comments, can I now harvest coopers yeast from my tallies rather than harvesting fro. The FV and clean up the trub?
 

Paleman

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Just me but i dont get this reculturing from Coopers beers. Too much effort for no reward. Their dried yeast is pretty damn good and even better dry yeasts out there. I've done it once or twice and cant tell the difference in the same recipes. Back in the day Coopers used Nottingham.
 

kingdomplantae

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Just me but i dont get this reculturing from Coopers beers. Too much effort for no reward. Their dried yeast is pretty damn good and even better dry yeasts out there. I've done it once or twice and cant tell the difference in the same recipes. Back in the day Coopers used Nottingham.
my understanding is that the yeast used in their commercial beers is unavailable otherwise, therefore reculturing coopers yeast from the bottle is needed if trying to get a clone closer to the original.

As well as this point I am doing it because I enjoy the process, am shaving dollars of my brew and as a lot of brewers recommend a yeast starter, reculturing yeast is not really much more hassle
 

Vini2ton

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I reckon it's a cracker of a yeast. It's no problem. I re-use all types of yeast over several gens', even dry. The mauri with their kits, imho, is very different to the bottle yeast. I like the mauri as well. I'm fairly lazy, but the small amount of effort is well worth it for the taste and to see a healthy ferment kick off quickly. Plus it gives me an excuse to buy a sparkling ale six-pack, which is an extravagant pleasure for me.
 

duncbrewer

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Thanks so it's pronounced as I've punctuated it to get the AQI .
So it's a bit bigger than a bomber ( 22oz or 650ml ) .

Thanks
 

clarkejw

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There is a lot of conjecture that White Labs 009 Australian Ale Yeast is Coopers. I've used it many times, and am very pleased with it.
 

sp0rk

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Just me but i dont get this reculturing from Coopers beers. Too much effort for no reward. Their dried yeast is pretty damn good and even better dry yeasts out there. I've done it once or twice and cant tell the difference in the same recipes. Back in the day Coopers used Nottingham.
As others have said, because their dried yeast isn't the same yeast that they use in their beers (the aromas didn't come through after drying)
I for one pretty much only use a culture from their Sparkling Ale for any of of my Aussie sparkling ales and it actually goes great in many stouts too
 

Grmblz

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+1 for the recultured, their dried is very good just not quite the same, not being a massive fan of their green label I ramp up to a 3L batch then freeze it in my yeast bank, get about 15 vials from a session, then by dumping a new brew on the cake that's somewhere near 30 brews before I have to buy another 6 pack.
@kingdomplantae With most modern dried yeasts it's not really a good idea to make a starter, they're optimised to go straight in, maybe rehydrate first. Lots of discussion here on the forum about the subject.
 

kingdomplantae

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+1 for the recultured, their dried is very good just not quite the same, not being a massive fan of their green label I ramp up to a 3L batch then freeze it in my yeast bank, get about 15 vials from a session, then by dumping a new brew on the cake that's somewhere near 30 brews before I have to buy another 6 pack.
@kingdomplantae With most modern dried yeasts it's not really a good idea to make a starter, they're optimised to go straight in, maybe rehydrate first. Lots of discussion here on the forum about the subject.
Thanks for the tip mate, I had sworn I read recommendations for yeast starters, likely Ive gotten my wires crossed, I will do some more reading! Either way I'll keep using the coopers yeast for now, sounds like you get great milage from a 6 pack!
 

MHB

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As far as I know, (I put this question to some people at Coopers) they use the same yeast for all the house beers.
The best beer to get yeast from is the lowest alcohol beer. So the Mild Ale (3.5%) would be the best one if you were just buying a beer to get the yeast, Pale Ale next best.
Higher alcohol and Age causes more mutations, particularly Petite and Respiratory mutations, lower alcohol beer should give a more reliable and faithful crop. Probably the most important choice would be age, go for the youngest beer you can find, the cell count falls over time and the number of mutants goes up.
Given that Pale Ale is the most popular it more likely that you will find a fresh (young) sample.
Mark
 

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