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BeerMonkey

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I started fermenting a Cooper's Real Ale on the 14/1 using 1kg LME and 10g of hop pellets before pitching a liquid yeast, SG was 1.040 temp was a bit high on first reading. Checked again on 15/1 1.040 again, temp was at a comfortable 20 degrees by this time after 24hrs. No airlock bubbling has been happening, however the foam and Krausen are definately evident on the top. Check of the SG today 17/1 read 1.032.

My question is are things going OK? is this normal? or any advice or reasons would be appreciated.

BeerMonkey
 
As you will hear again and again, dont trust the airlock.

The fact that there is a good krausen and the OG has dropped means that everything is doing what it is supposed to

Just a question, did you just throw the hops in the fermenter (dry hopping) or did you boil them for a short time in some wort (ldm +water)?
my only concern is whether there will be enough bitterness to balance the real ale kit - I've never used 1 and dont know the ibu of the tin to work it out. Was it something the brew shop person advised?
 
Gravity dropping, krausen formed. No dramas. RDWHAHB.
 
I started fermenting a Cooper's Real Ale on the 14/1 using 1kg LME and 10g of hop pellets before pitching a liquid yeast, SG was 1.040 temp was a bit high on first reading. Checked again on 15/1 1.040 again, temp was at a comfortable 20 degrees by this time after 24hrs. No airlock bubbling has been happening, however the foam and Krausen are definately evident on the top. Check of the SG today 17/1 read 1.032.

My question is are things going OK? is this normal? or any advice or reasons would be appreciated.

BeerMonkey

Sounds like its going fine - nothing to be nervous about. If the SG is dropping shes brewing. Dont worry about the airlock not bubbling. There may be a leek in the lid somewhere. Its fine - ive not had a bubbling airlock for years (I dont even both putting water in anymore). As long as theres krausen and the SG is dropping its all good. Keep it at 20 - thats a nice temp (18-20) for ales. What yeast did you use Monkey?
Cheers
Steve
 
ive not had a bubbling airlock for years (I dont even both putting water in anymore).

Hey Steve,

so you're saying you have the airlock in place but no water in? don't the bugs and stuff get in there? I just had an airlock full of tiny insects, luckily the water was there so they couldn't get in and drowned trying.
 
As you will hear again and again, dont trust the airlock.

The fact that there is a good krausen and the OG has dropped means that everything is doing what it is supposed to

Just a question, did you just throw the hops in the fermenter (dry hopping) or did you boil them for a short time in some wort (ldm +water)?
my only concern is whether there will be enough bitterness to balance the real ale kit - I've never used 1 and dont know the ibu of the tin to work it out. Was it something the brew shop person advised?


No dry hopping, boiled and added to the kit before being added to the fermentor. The taste was a bit sour and it smells like a fruity cider at this point in time
 
Sounds like its going fine - nothing to be nervous about. If the SG is dropping shes brewing. Dont worry about the airlock not bubbling. There may be a leek in the lid somewhere. Its fine - ive not had a bubbling airlock for years (I dont even both putting water in anymore). As long as theres krausen and the SG is dropping its all good. Keep it at 20 - thats a nice temp (18-20) for ales. What yeast did you use Monkey?
Cheers
Steve


To be honest the yeast was given to me by a seasond brewer however they are not contactable at this time to find out the exact name, it was definately given to me for the purpose of replacing the yeast packet in the lid and for Ale's at 18-20 degrees
 
Hey Steve,

so you're saying you have the airlock in place but no water in? don't the bugs and stuff get in there? I just had an airlock full of tiny insects, luckily the water was there so they couldn't get in and drowned trying.

yeah I put a bit of gladwrap over them with a lacky band
 
"No dry hopping, boiled and added to the kit before being added to the fermentor. The taste was a bit sour and it smells like a fruity cider at this point in time."

Monkey, the sour taste is a bit of a worry. If you want to bring a sample in to me (BYOAH at Kambah Village), I can check it for you.
Shoppe.
 
"No dry hopping, boiled and added to the kit before being added to the fermentor. The taste was a bit sour and it smells like a fruity cider at this point in time."

Monkey, the sour taste is a bit of a worry. If you want to bring a sample in to me (BYOAH at Kambah Village), I can check it for you.
Shoppe.


I think I will do that I saw on your site your open from 10am - 2pm tomorrow I'll pop in then

Cheers
BeerMonkey
 
Just a question, did you just throw the hops in the fermenter (dry hopping) or did you boil them for a short time in some wort (ldm +water)?
my only concern is whether there will be enough bitterness to balance the real ale kit - I've never used 1 and dont know the ibu of the tin to work it out. Was it something the brew shop person advised?


I can tell you from experience the Real Ale can is plenty bitter, the first time I used it I added some bittering hops and I could barely drink it (but I did ;) ). I reckon with a kilo of malt extract it would be safe to not boil hops for longer than 20 mins, unless you're using it as a base for something like an IPA.

Beermonkey, how long did you boil the hops for?

Guys/Gals, if it was a long boil could this be the percieved sour taste?
 
I can tell you from experience the Real Ale can is plenty bitter, the first time I used it I added some bittering hops and I could barely drink it (but I did ;) ). I reckon with a kilo of malt extract it would be safe to not boil hops for longer than 20 mins, unless you're using it as a base for something like an IPA.

Beermonkey, how long did you boil the hops for?

Guys/Gals, if it was a long boil could this be the percieved sour taste?


Only boiled them for 5 mins.
 
I can tell you from experience the Real Ale can is plenty bitter, the first time I used it I added some bittering hops and I could barely drink it (but I did ;) ).

beautifull - least that wont be a problem.

5 min boil with 10g of hop pellet shouldn't give a big hit of sour, boiled or not,

sour fruity cider - your not trying to describe a green apple taste are you??
 
beautifull - least that wont be a problem.

5 min boil with 10g of hop pellet shouldn't give a big hit of sour, boiled or not,

sour fruity cider - your not trying to describe a green apple taste are you??

Yes that's probably a better way to describe it, I'm learning the new tastes. It smells great though
 
Yes that's probably a better way to describe it, I'm learning the new tastes. It smells great though

The "green apple" taste is acetaldehyde, which is one of the byproducts that yeast give off during growth/fermentation. The yeast will clean it up either by the time fermentation is complete or after being in the bottle for a couple of weeks.
 
Thanks very much for all the advice, I think I'm just watching the kettle boil to much.

Again thanks for the wealth of knowledge. Patience is really a virtue, as this site has shown.

Beer Monkey
 
Thanks very much for all the advice, I think I'm just watching the kettle boil to much.

Again thanks for the wealth of knowledge. Patience is really a virtue, as this site has shown.

Beer Monkey

Plenty of knowledge from all on AHB indeed.

+1 on what others have said. Krausen and dropping gravity = you are making beer!

Keen to hear how it turns out.
 
I just had an airlock full of tiny insects, luckily the water was there so they couldn't get in and drowned trying.
Sounds like you have Drosophila spp. or similar. :) Welcome to the north shore and fruit flies, if the cockroaches haven't already come. :D

Cheers - Fermented.
 
1. Coopers real ale is a fairly bitter brew. I did a straight real ale plus a kilo of Brew Enhancer 2 as a demo for a newbie about 2 months ago and it turned out quite drinkable but would not add bittering hops to this kit.

2. When the fermenter is empty next, get a sharp stanley knife (terrorist box cutter) and go round the lip of the fermenter to shave off a small 'chamfer' off the inside and outside, and then shave off the two plastic 'lugs' on opposite sides of the lip - if they are there - which often occur when the fermenter has been moulded. Make sure the o ring is sitting flat. Then shave the two opposing ridges of plastic on each side of the airlock stem - again these may be present due to the two part moulding process.

3. Also don't screw lid too tight as you can crimp the o ring and it won't seal.

Happy brewing, welcome to the obsession. :icon_cheers:
 
1. Coopers real ale is a fairly bitter brew. I did a straight real ale plus a kilo of Brew Enhancer 2 as a demo for a newbie about 2 months ago and it turned out quite drinkable but would not add bittering hops to this kit.

2. When the fermenter is empty next, get a sharp stanley knife (terrorist box cutter) and go round the lip of the fermenter to shave off a small 'chamfer' off the inside and outside, and then shave off the two plastic 'lugs' on opposite sides of the lip - if they are there - which often occur when the fermenter has been moulded. Make sure the o ring is sitting flat. Then shave the two opposing ridges of plastic on each side of the airlock stem - again these may be present due to the two part moulding process.

3. Also don't screw lid too tight as you can crimp the o ring and it won't seal.

Happy brewing, welcome to the obsession. :icon_cheers:

I had to do something similar to this when i made my secondary from a water storage container except i had to use a power haxsaw to trim up the inside edge because they were so bad and hit the top of the fermenter with a big disc sander to flatten it out so it would seal on the o'ring! The only thing that was easy was drilling the lid for an o'ring for the airlock lol :)

If i could go back in time i would have spent the extra 10 dollers and bought one straight from the LHBS ^^
 

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