My First Temp At All Grain Beer

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Bogan333

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Sandgroper Brewing Co Ashfield Western Australia
So please tell me what I'm about to do worry, Please as this is going to be my first a temp at all grain beer.


As it go's

Batch size 23.0L
Total grain 3.539 kg
Total Hops 56.04 g
OG 1.046
FG 1.008
ABV 4.99
EBC 5
IBU 33
Efficiency 100%
Boil Time 60 min's


Grain Bill
Pilsner joe white 2.129 kg
Crystal 10 .234 kg
Corn Syrup .216 kg
Dextrose .649 kg
Rice Hulls .311 kg

Hop Bill
POR 15g 60min's Boil
POR 15g 29.5 mins Boil
POR 15g 20 min's Boil
POR 12g 10 mins Aroma
Whirlfloc 1g 15 min's boil

Single step infusion at 65c for 60 min's
fermented at 24c with WLP009 Australian Ale Yeast
 
Hi you need to have a look at your efficiency setting nobody gets 100%. I have been brewing A/G for about 6 years and get 75 to 80%. Dropping the efficiency willl affect nearly every final measurement you get in particular your pre boil and opening gravity. Also your grain bill Crystal is normally kept to a maximum of 10% of the pale ale component. Cheers Altstart
 
As above. I'd also ferment much lower - if that's the same as the coopers strain, I'd ferment between 16 and 19. The higher temp (even 19) will give a lot of banana.

Keep the crystal where it is but bump up the base malt by almost twice (around 5 kg) then recalculate hop quantities to get the IBU you want. Start with 70% efficiency. PoR is not usually considered the world's tastiest late hop so keep that in mind (you may like it). I'd drop out the corn syrup and if you mash reasonably low (and again, that strain is the coopers yeast) you should have no trouble getting a well attenuated, dry finishing beer without the dex.
 
In your recipe as posted, with those two good whacks of sugars you would end up with a fairly thin unbalanced beer - unless you are looking for something megaswilly - in which case I'd use a lager yeast instead.

As above I'd start with 4.5kg base malt to give the beer its "heart" and play around the edges from there, no more than 10% added sugars, set efficiency to 70% for starters and ferment at below 20. You could keep the crystal as-is with those quantities, where it would then be in balance.

Happy brew day ;)
 
Thanks Blokes, I'm using BrewMate V1.22 program I dropped the efficiency down to 70% and brought up the grain bill size to 5kg but it made to EBC to high about 8.3. The thing is I only like Australian beers hence POR, EBC has to been 5 and under IBU 25-35 ABV 4.5+. Can you still help please. O yer Perth Temperature is starting to rise 24c and up
 
If you want to drop the colour, drop out the crystal (or reduce) and use pale and wheat malt to get the gravity you want. Bittering with PoR is fine (make sure it is fresh) and you will get good flavour from a single bittering addition.

If you don't have temp control, find some other way of keeping cool (water bath, wet towels, fan etc)
 
Do you mean BU:GU or something else?

Personally I'm just going on my experience of what those ingredients do and what I think you'd be chasing in a light coloured aussie ale. I use numbers as a guide rather than as a rule.
 
bitterness: gravity ratio is important but like any number in brewing, it's best not to get bogged down with what suggested parameters are. They are exactly that - suggested. Use them as a guide, in conjunction with your own palate, preference and what you enjoy from home brewed and commercial brews.
 
20-25 ibu for a lager ,37 ibu would be a pale ale style
bu gu for a lager low .50's for say a mild ale .75
balance value 1.2 for light lager 1.7 for pale ale. this is from my brewmate recipes.
only a guide so if i'm wrong i don't care it seems to work for me :D
hope its of some help, regs, milo
 
Ok redone Recipe

Batch size 23.0L
Total grain 5.046 kg
Total Hops 72.00 g
OG 1.045
FG 1.007
ABV 4.97
EBC 5
IBU 33.6
Efficiency 70%
Boil Time 60 min's


Grain Bill
Pilsner Joe white 3.536 kg
Corn Syrup .403 kg
Dextrose .603 kg
Rice Hulls .503 kg

Hop Bill
POR 15g 60min's Boil
POR 15g 29.5 mins Boil
POR 15g 20 min's Boil
POR 15g 5 min's Boil
POR 12g 10 mins Aroma
Whirlfloc 1g 15 min's boil

Single step infusion at 66c for 60 min's
fermented at 24c with WLP009 Australian Ale Yeast

I know a lot of you's said ferment below 20c, but in Perth that hard to do, my current concentrate brew is fermenting at 24c and in the next two months it will be hotter, and it will be cooler out side the house than in. That way I've gone with a yeast up to 30c
 
I'd do something about temp. control before I did much else if I were you. STC 1000 wired up and ready to go < $40, and a 'fridge - <$30. You won't regret this small investment.
 
My advice stands - drop the late hop additions (increase the bittering addition if need be)

Drop the dextrose and corn syrup.

Use some wheat malt (maybe 500g)

Ferment low (difficult as it maybe use a water bath and some wet towels and chuck in some ice bricks each morning).

Your beer though.
 
Drop the dextrose and corn syrup.

It's not exactly "All Grain" with a kilo of adjuncts.

Drop the rice hulls too.

Better yet, as your first AG why not try an existing recipe to earn your stripes?

And honestly, a 30 degree ferment will give you a headsplitter.And christ knows what sort of esters youll be producing. Grab an old fridge for a fitty, a controller for a redback, and youll never worry again.
 
The instructions on concentrates suggest you can ferment up to 28 degrees but no-one who knows anything about brewing would actually recommmend that. No difference between concentrate and grain based brews in that regard.

Rice hulls may not be necessary but they won't do anything bad and may help even up the mash temp across the grain bed (so I've heard anyway). No big thing either way.
 
If you are using Stainless Steel conical fermenator that's a bit hard to put in a bath and to big to put in a fridge. I'm not say that people in Perth made the best home brew but temp has been around about 22 to 28c with concentrate brews and very drinkable.
 
If you are using Stainless Steel conical fermenator that's a bit hard to put in a bath and to big to put in a fridge. I'm not say that people in Perth made the best home brew but temp has been around about 22 to 28c with concentrate brews and very drinkable.


A-ah.

Sure, it i quicker to ferment high. Actually very speedy
 
My advice stands - drop the late hop additions (increase the bittering addition if need be)

Drop the dextrose and corn syrup.

Use some wheat malt (maybe 500g)

Ferment low (difficult as it maybe use a water bath and some wet towels and chuck in some ice bricks each morning).

Your beer though.


The instructions on concentrates suggest you can ferment up to 28 degrees but no-one who knows anything about brewing would actually recommmend that. No difference between concentrate and grain based brews in that regard.

Rice hulls may not be necessary but they won't do anything bad and may help even up the mash temp across the grain bed (so I've heard anyway). No big thing either way.

Yep and yep.

I'd be listening to Manticle mate, he knows his shit, and the advise he's giving you in this thread is spot on.

Unless your doing a specialty beer, never purposefully ferment at 22-28. You can get away with 22, but the warmer you go, the worse your beer will get.
Not saying they do this deliberately, but keep in mind that companies that make can concentrate and who also make commercial beer, still want you to buy the commercial stuff. It's not in their "best interests" to convert everyone to making it themselves.

Id drop the dex and corn syrup and go with a single POR addition (at this stage in your brewing). POR when fresh is a very good bittering hop, but not usually noted for it's aroma flavour properties. I actually do like it like this, but the majority of people would disagree, and i'm also not on my first AG brew, so i have a few ways i use it besides as a bittering. Get your legs first and then start running.
 

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