Monster Mill 3.2 - Help Needed

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ricardo

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Hi, i got one of these delivered last week along with the base and hopper and am having a slight problem i'm hoping somebody might know the answer to.

The thumbscrews had come loose in transit like so i set the measurement to 0.055mm and tightened the thumbscrews to hold the rollers in place. I then fixed the mill on top of the base and set about putting the hopper on which looks pretty uncomplicated. The thing thats stumped me is that i have to take out the thumbscrews to put on a part of the hopper. I was careful not to move any of the mill whilst doing this but will it affect the calibration between the driven roller and the idle bottom third roller that i had set earlier. The reason i ask is because once i have put that part of the hopper on i can't access that gap to check the measurement. Have i done something wrong or am i missing something?

Cheers
 

goomboogo

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ricardo said:
The reason i ask is because once i have put that part of the hopper on i can't access that gap to check the measurement. Have i done something wrong or am i missing something?
Can you describe what's preventing access to the rollers. I can still check and adjust the gap once the hopper is in place.
 

potof4x

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Na I got the same issue, it's not just you. I took snips to the corners of the guard to allow it to slip in without removing the screws
 

vortex

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Gap 0.05mm? Thats really small. I run 1.2mm mill gap.
 

QldKev

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vortex said:
Gap 0.05mm? Thats really small. I run 1.2mm mill gap.
He likes his mill like he likes his women, very tight.


I'm running my mm2 at 1.0mm
 

ricardo

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QldKev said:
He likes his mill like he likes his women, very tight.


I'm running my mm2 at 1.0mm
In all honesty i'm new to All Grain and was just following the Monster Mill instructions. They ship it set to 0.060mm and suggest you try it on that setting first before deciding if you want to lower it!

Do you suggest i widen the gap
 

QldKev

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ricardo said:
In all honesty i'm new to All Grain and was just following the Monster Mill instructions. They ship it set to 0.060mm and suggest you try it on that setting first before deciding if you want to lower it!

Do you suggest i widen the gap
I think you will find that is 0.060" as in inch, not mm. :D

edit: Just for reference .050 inches = 1.27 millimetres
 

growler

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Ricardo,

The factory setting is in inches.

Go to Supercheap/Autopro/etc and get a cheap set of bent feeler guages. You can then set the gap from below. Check both sides for a good grain feed.

I use 1.0mm for BIAB and crush twice.

Growler
 

ricardo

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Cheers Guys

Still have the problem with the hopper though. I'm thinking i might have to take everything off, measure it again and then mark the knob and frame as a reference point. Then when i take the thumbscrews out to put the hopper on i'll know if its moved or not
 

goomboogo

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With the hopper in place, can't you loosen the thumbscrews and then set your roller gap? After this, it's a matter of tightening the thumbscrews and you're away.
 

ricardo

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goomboogo said:
With the hopper in place, can't you loosen the thumbscrews and then set your roller gap? After this, it's a matter of tightening the thumbscrews and you're away.
Unfortunately not. Once the hopper and base is on you no longer have access to measure the gap between the driven roller and the idle bottom third roller.

It's a really nice bit of kit but this is definately a major design flaw in my opinion
 

ricardo

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Well i finally got round to testing the mill, unfortunately it doesn't seem to pull the grain through. The grain just seems to bounce of the spinning drive roller whilst the upper roller is motionless. Some grain does make it through but is not crushed enough

I've set the gap to 1 mm and have span the rollers with my hand before and after tightening the thumbscrews, they spin but not for long maybe 2-3 seconds.

Any help appreciated?
 

potof4x

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Just about the only reason this will happen is grain jamming up the rollers. It will be stuck between the end of the roller and the end plates, can be a problem if you turn it upside down to clean it. Also it can build up under the "tabs" of the hopper and drop down from there. Try and ensure they are all spinning freely before loading up the hopper
 

Sam England

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Evening Ricardo,
I know this won't be the case, but have you bumped your drill into reverse? I've seen an apprentice making smoke on a lathe before and wondering why his tool wouldn't cut, only to find that flicking the switch the other way and the thing cut beautifully. :D
I'd also have a look up of malt or grain conditioning before milling if you can't get it working well enough. My homemade mill used to run pretty slow and make a heap of flour before I started doing this. Basically mix enough water through your grain bill until just starts to stick to your hands when you squeeze it. Leave it 20 mins to soak in and then mill as per normal. My rollers are mild steel and haven't shown any signs of rust yet. The only thing I do now is run my spec malts through dry mixed with the "conditioned" base malts as the crystal malts tended to stick to the rollers. Some people use a spray bottle, but I just tip it in slowly and thoroughly mix by hand. About half a cup I think with my last brew in 5kg of malt.

Hopefully this helps, but I would have expected your mill to work straight up.

Cheers,
BB
 

raven19

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I run a MM2, and I tighten the thumb screws further with a pair of pliers - otherwise they come loose.

Not sure if this is of any help with the MM3 though?
 

ricardo

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Blue Baggers said:
Evening Ricardo,
I know this won't be the case, but have you bumped your drill into reverse? I've seen an apprentice making smoke on a lathe before and wondering why his tool wouldn't cut, only to find that flicking the switch the other way and the thing cut beautifully. :D
I'd also have a look up of malt or grain conditioning before milling if you can't get it working well enough. My homemade mill used to run pretty slow and make a heap of flour before I started doing this. Basically mix enough water through your grain bill until just starts to stick to your hands when you squeeze it. Leave it 20 mins to soak in and then mill as per normal. My rollers are mild steel and haven't shown any signs of rust yet. The only thing I do now is run my spec malts through dry mixed with the "conditioned" base malts as the crystal malts tended to stick to the rollers. Some people use a spray bottle, but I just tip it in slowly and thoroughly mix by hand. About half a cup I think with my last brew in 5kg of malt.

Hopefully this helps, but I would have expected your mill to work straight up.

Cheers,
BB
Hey BB,

i am so embarressed just had to flick the switch the other way, my only saving grace was i figured it before i read your response. :)I did try this before i posted last night but that time i had grain in the mill before i started the drill, this time i put the grain in after the drill was started and it worked perfectly

Thanks for your help
 

Yob

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Eagerly awaiting my MM3 from Nibbo.. going to have to brew just so I can use it..

and oh the great pity.. I'll have to build a hopper and such for it too... ^_^ Im thinking a hopper for about 8-10kg should do the trick

:beerbang:
 

Weizguy

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Yob said:
Eagerly awaiting my MM3 from Nibbo.. going to have to brew just so I can use it..

and oh the great pity.. I'll have to build a hopper and such for it too... ^_^ Im thinking a hopper for about 8-10kg should do the trick

:beerbang:
Is that so you can eke out the maximum volume utilisation from your Stainless Steel fusti?

If so, I agree. (10 kg hopper size, FTW)
 
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