Mill Setting

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dreads_2006

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Hi guys,
I have a mashmaster mini mill and it seems I can't sey roller gap correctly as I keep going to fine and getting a stuck mash,
My question is what should I have it set to and what feeler gauge works best.
Cheers


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i just got some feeler gauges from bunnings. Only used my mill a few times now but first time using it i had the drill on it and pretty much pulverized it, second time with a motor attached and had it set to fine and got stuck mash. Just this weekend i turned the motor down slightly and mill set to .39 and everything worked perfectly and hit all my numbers and 75% eff for the first time!

edit: apologies for the imperial measurement but thats what my gauges are in, 39 thou is around one mm i believe
 
I set mine to 1.4mm. I found 1.2 was too fine, 1.6 works well enough, but leaves a fair few grains un crushed with the UK malts.

How fast are you running it?
 
I'm only hand cranking the mill, if that helps. Just need a good spacing for that.
Cheers guys


Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Home Brewer
 
Second vote for 1.4mm here.

I would add, I don't think there's one setting that rules all. Depends on your brew system, and what grain you're brewing with.

A lot of wheat, in a 2V/3V system, without the addition of hulls is going to give very different results to someone brewing with pale ale in a BIAB system, for example.
 
Start at 1.6 and work your way smaller from there. It's hard to suggest a gap that will work with your system as I have no idea what it is. Anecdotal evidence suggests smaller gaps work better with BIAB systems but with my HERMS set up larger works better. Most people seem to use around 1mm or a shade under, but I've found that a smaller crush increases the likely hood of a stuck mash without much of an increase in efficiency.
 
Thanks Gents,
I use a three pot/esky gravity system and will give 1.4mm ago and investigate spacingthanks for the help


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There is a bit more to the art of setting a mill gap.

Gap depends on many things, like roller size, speed, grain types and your mash tun.

Fine crushes that give 20-30% flour with whole intact husks is what your after. Whole husks help stop stuck sparges. Small rollers can tend to shred husks, as can rollers going to fast.

Start course and take note of every brew as you decrease the gap. Might take 5 or 6 brews to get what works best

One thing to try is wetting your grains before you mill. Mix about 100-150ml ( 1/2 cup ) of water to 5kg of grain, just enough to wet the husks, then mix in a bucket with your arm until al l the grains are moist, then let sit for 10-15mins before milling. The water softens the husk keeping it whole and intact but the kernel stays hard so it still crushes.
 
I use a barley crusher, but the thing I've learned with crushing grain is, slow and steady wins the the race. I imagine you guys experience the same thing?
 
dreads_2006 said:
Thanks Gents,
I use a three pot/esky gravity system and will give 1.4mm ago and investigate spacingthanks for the help


Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Home Brewer
I also have the mashmaster mini now. If youre a false bottom in your esky guy, then just go as wide as the mill allows. Easy by sight. Its all I ever do (except in the case of smaller grains - I'll close it a tad) I get close to 80% mash eff every time. Having it that wide sometimes looks like grains are getting through uncracked, but on inspection, they fall apart. Its exactly how I need it. Easy lauter, never a stuck mash.
Try full gap first and wind it in a bit each subsequent brew, until you get a stuck mash, then youll know your sweet spot.
 
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