Mashmaster Weldless Thermometer Installation

[Trough Lolly]

G'day all,
I'm about to drill the rubbermaid cooler to install the recently arrived Mashmaster weldless thermometer when I look at the 1/2 inch drill bit and reckon that it's no where near big enough for the threaded fitting on the back of the thermometer. It looks like a 3/4 inch threaded pipe with a 6.5mm probe??? I raced downstairs and found that the thermometer slipped loosely into the 7/8ths hole in the side of my keggle so I suspect that a 3/4 drill (?19-20mm?) drillbit is needed. Great - the largest drillbit I have is a 1/2 inch one but I do have a few spade bits laying around...

Before I destroy my 10 Gal rubbermaid cooler, can anyone who's installed one of these please sort out my confusion? :unsure:

Cheers,
TL

 

[Sammus]

I think 1/2" BSP comes from its use for other pipe fittings and all thread etc, which is compatible with 1/2" piping (which has walls much thinner than threaded fittings - either that or the 1/2" is the ID).

 

[Pumpy]

TL

I just measured mine as best I can its about 20mm go easy with the spade bit one slip and it could rip .


Pumpy

 

[Pumpy]

can you borrow a bimetal hole cutter from the cute lady across the roads husband ?

Pumpy

 

[Screwtop]

Buy yourself a good 20mm sore hole TL

 

[haysie]

Buy yourself a good 20mm sore hole TL

+1
4sure> 20mm.
Beats me why they say "drill a 1/2 inch hole" and away you go? <_<
Spadebit is scarey.

 

[Batz]

Buy yourself a good 20mm sore hole TL

Yes buy a hole saw,for plastic a cheap azz job will do,one of those from the import type shops,then you can bin it if you want.I saw some shockers the other day for around $6.00.

Batz

 

[TidalPete]

TL,

To save yourself some $$$$'s cover the spot where you want the hole to be with masking tape, mark the hole, drill a series of holes around the inside of the circumference of the marked hole, then file out to a tight screw fit after cutting out the core. Too easy.

TP :beer:

 

[dr K]

Bro Stout.....
yes K is a simple man , but why did you invest in a weldless thermometer for a plastic mush tun?
sorry, that's all the help I can give....

K

 

[Screwtop]

Bro Stout.....
yes K is a simple man , but why did you invest in a weldless thermometer for a plastic mush tun?
sorry, that's all the help I can give....

K

Yeah, shoulda just welded it right in there

 

[smashed jaffa]

TL,

I have done exactly what you are endeavouring with great success!

Before this I used a digital thermometer which was inaccurate to say the least! I improved my efficiency by having more accurate and reliable mashing temps on my tun.

My advice is just do it!

I installed it a while ago and from memory (and by serching my toolbox for the newest looking spade bit), I used a 13/16 and it has never leaked.



hope this helps.

Cheers,

SJ

 

[Cummins]

Just drill the smaller hole then jam your best kitchen knife in there and spin it around. When still too small, use excessive force to jam it in and turn it, using the thread to force a way through. When you realise its not fitting through the small hole in the hard plastic on the other side, unscrew it, then jam your best kitchen knife in the hole on the inside this time, and spin it around. Resume screwing. Done.

 

[BrissyBrew]

I have fitted kegs/pots by drilling a slightly smaller hole and using a small grinding disc on the end of my drill to bore it out for a snug fit. I assume the same would work for your esky.

 

[warrenlw63]

Yeah, shoulda just welded it right in there

:lol: :lol:

Seriously TL. I'd kinda take it easy mashing in too. The combination of hot liquid softening the plastic a bit and banging the thermo stem with your paddle could get a bit hairy if you're not careful.

Other than that I'd be inclined to drill the hole slightly undersized and turn the thermometer in clockwise and let the thread do a bit of chewing. Should make for a more secure fit.

Edit: Spadebit? Scary. Second what Batz says. Cheap black holesaw from the Vietnamese cheapie sounds saner.

Warren -

 

[HKS]

You can use a spadebit "if" you go very very slowly and its sharp. Its not a race to bore out the hole the fastest way you can. Use a very low speed and you don't need a lot of pressure. Let the spadebit do all the work. Slow and steady wins the race. I've used them plenty of times to bore through thick plastic project boxes and always end up with a very neat result. That's how I bored holes in for the glands for my fridgemate box.

Disclaimer: Never done a gatorade cooler though.

 

[Trough Lolly]

Thanks all for your comments - I think I'll rule out using the 7/8ths aka 22mm holesaw since it will make too large a hole and leaks will be a major issue.
The spade bit is admittedly scary, but some tape across the front is a good idea.
Perhaps the 1/2 inch drillbit is the easiest option and letting / forcing the threaded pipe to make it's own way through the mashtun should, in theory, make a tight fit which will help reduce leakage risk and I do have a small round file to finish it off if necessary.

Here's a closeup of the mashmaster's fitting (with fairly deep threads) and the 1/2 inch drillbit for comparison - clearly the drillbit is smaller...



And I'm thinking of fitting the thermometer about a third of the way up between the recessed section that has the ballvalve, and the "drinking water" raised text - which would be at around the 10 litre mark of the mashtun...



Cheers,
TL

 

[Hutch]

Hi TL,

I fitted the same weldless thermo to a similar 10Gal Keep Cold. I used a cheap 20mm hole-saw as suggested, which made a nice neat hole.

The biggest suggestion I could offer you is to then strengthen the wall cavity around the hole using some epoxy-based putty (the stuff that's a bit like a log of plastacene, and sets in about 5 minutes). You need to remove some of the excess expanded foam first.
I found that this was essential to prevent leaks. The high temps soften the plastics, and bashing with the mash paddle doesn't help either. The solid wall then allows you to tighten the nut as firm as you like.
Rock solid!

Hutch.

 

[Trough Lolly]

Thanks for the tips Hutch - are 20mm hole saws and epoxy-based putty cheaply available in places like Magnet Mart or Bunnies?

Cheers,
TL

 

[Hutch]

Thanks for the tips Hutch - are 20mm hole saws and epoxy-based putty cheaply available in places like Magnet Mart or Bunnies?

Cheers,
TL

The Epoxy Putty I used was Selleys "Knead It", from a local hardware store, so would assume you'd get it at Bunnies.
Got the hole-saw as a cheap multi-set at Bunnies as well.
Once the putty goes off in your hole, leave it to go hard, and then use a file or dremel to open out the hole for a snug fit.

...and use latex gloves to mix the putty - tends to stick to your hands (nice!)

 

[Pumpy]

Would the putty have an icycyonate to harden the resin ? may be carconagenic check it is food grade

Pumpy <_<